Kolb-Archive.digest.vol-ct

March 12, 2001 - March 28, 2001



      will be no painting this morning and possibly for the rest
      of the day.  Alas, I have other stuff I must do inside.  It
      all counts towards flying again.
      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: Ksbroste(at)aol.com
Date: Mar 12, 2001
Subject: Elevator & Rudder Clearance
(1) What is the recommended clearance between the rudder at full left or right deflection and the elevators? (2) Has Kolb changed the assembly or connection between the aileron torque tube and the tube going to the aileron bell crank? My blueprints show a square like u-joint assembly. Did they forget to send me this joint part? Or on the other hand, there is a short tube assembly with rubber flex joint in the middle. Is this rubber flex tube my connection between the two aileron tubes? Thanks, I'd have a much bigger phone bill to Kolb without everybody's help. Ken Firestar ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 12, 2001
From: Julian Warren <jgw300(at)webolium.com>
Subject: Rudder Horn
I spoke with Ray today about the question of which way the rudder horn is placed on the rudder post. And what if anything the two holes were drilled in it for! He stated that you should mount the horn with the tabs pointed towards the Vert Stab trailing edge as shown on page 12 of the plans. They are as reported stops to keep rudder from hitting the Elevators. If they do not allow enough travel, cut them down until you have the desired travel of the rudder. If they allow too much travel then you can pop rivet a piece in the two holes that limit the travel further. (I personally do not see that as a potential problem.) The photo on page 10 of the manual is incorrect. The unit was installed backwards. Excellent, friendly support from Ray. I get a feeling I will be talking to him again. I am going to e-mail him next time in an effort to keep my phone bill down. Julian Warren Eugene, Oregon ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 12, 2001
From: "Tim Gherkins" <rp3420(at)email.sps.mot.com>
Subject: Re: Elevator & Rudder Clearance
Ken, I am not sure of your first question about clearance. But, you are right about the new aileron assembly. The rubber covered universal joint is the connection between the two tubes. Email kolb and request updated instructions. they are very good with a quick reply plus it's easier on the phone bill. Tim Firestar II Ksbroste(at)aol.com wrote: > > > (1) What is the recommended clearance between the rudder at full left or > right deflection and the elevators? > > (2) Has Kolb changed the assembly or connection between the aileron torque > tube and the tube going to the aileron bell crank? My blueprints show a > square like u-joint assembly. Did they forget to send me this joint part? > Or on the other hand, there is a short tube assembly with rubber flex joint > in the middle. Is this rubber flex tube my connection between the two > aileron tubes? > > Thanks, I'd have a much bigger phone bill to Kolb without everybody's help. > > Ken > Firestar > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: TAILDRAGGER503(at)aol.com
Date: Mar 12, 2001
Subject: Re: typing in caps
Please stop the nonsense GIRLS. DAVE SNYDER LONG BRANCH ,N.J. BUILDING FSII ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 12, 2001
From: John Richmond <twoschmoops(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Gas types ??
Hey all, Who uses what gas? Street corner hi octane or jet A blue? Why or why not? Thanks ===== John & Lynn Richmond :-) Palm Coast, Fl. Mk3, 582 Yahoo! Auctions - Buy the things you want at great prices. http://auctions.yahoo.com/ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Christopher John Armstrong" <Tophera(at)centurytel.net>
Subject: Re: BUGS
Date: Mar 12, 2001
----- Original Message ----- From: "ronoy" <ronoy(at)shentel.net> Sent: Monday, March 12, 2001 1:09 PM Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Re: BUGS > > The rolled up tape is good idea.Small end of toothpick or broomstraw > worked for me. Get 'em while it's really wet, and paint will re-flow > over spot without leaving much damage. > And it helps if you have a helper trained to get 'em while they're still wiggling. a good old fashioned pair of needle nose tweezers works for bugs, not the regular size but the super sharp pointy ones, used for getting slivers out. the tips of these are like little razor blade points. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 11, 2001
From: Woody <duesouth(at)govital.net>
Subject: Re: Prop Bolts
> > >Beauford & All, > > I quit using 8.8 bolts years ago as they are close to a grade 5 SAE. It was my understanding that the grade 8 bolts were stronger but more brittle and were not recommended for props due to the excessive vibrations and power surges. The other bolts in question could be counterfeit. It is a major problem. Have the guy do a Rockwell on the bad bolts and compare them to his older bolts or the new ones. This is where I would bet my money. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 12, 2001
From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: BUGS
> a good old fashioned pair of needle nose tweezers works for bugs, not the > regular size but the super sharp pointy ones, Topher Topher and Gang: I tried that. These critters come apart so easily and the aerothane is so tacky and sticky, one can possibly remove the wing that has not stuck yet, but all the rest that is stuck in the paint gets macerated and I end up with chopped soui in the paint. Besides, my darn hands are too shakey when I get close to wet aerothane. Take care, john h ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Ksbroste(at)aol.com
Date: Mar 12, 2001
Subject: Elevator and rudder clearances?
Yes, Will, that's the joint I was describing for the aileron control tubes. What's the recommended way of attaching this? Kolb needs to redo their prints in a bad sort of way. Their nuts and bolts and assorted small hardware come up kind of short in the second kit. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 12, 2001
From: ed mills <edgmills(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Prop bolts
Edward I may be interested in that BRS. Please call me at 214-544-3500 to discuss, I have questions. Thanks another Edward Mills --- Edward Steuber wrote: > > > I am rebuilding an Ultrastar and found that the prop > (Culver 50x36) has > 1/4inch aircraft bolts that fit in what looks like > 5/16 holes in the > prop flange. The prop has evidence (slight burning) > on the hub from > running 15 hours since rebuild .Should I ream the > holes to 5/16 and go > to the larger aircraft bolt ?.....Also have BRS-5 > cannister chute that > is for sale and needs repack but rocket still good. > Make an offer > ......Ed Steuber , Western N.Y. > > > > through > > http://www.matronics.com/archives > http://www.matronics.com/emaillists > > Matronics! > > > > > Yahoo! Auctions - Buy the things you want at great prices. http://auctions.yahoo.com/ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 12, 2001
From: ed mills <edgmills(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Prop bolts
My apologies to the list on this and recent replies. I intended to go back "direct" Ed --- ed mills wrote: > > > Edward > I may be interested in that BRS. > Please call me at 214-544-3500 to discuss, I have > questions. > Thanks > another Edward > Mills > Yahoo! Auctions - Buy the things you want at great prices. http://auctions.yahoo.com/ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 12, 2001
From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: bugs
> ---The exception for the 600 paper idea is metallics--don't attempt > to sand them, they get real ugly! slyck Slyck and Gang: So does Aerothane! Usually, you are stuck with what you shoot. The neat thing about aerothane is that is will continue to flow out over a period of days, depending on temps. Sometimes what looks like a flaw, right after it is shot, will level itself in time. john h ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 12, 2001
Subject: Re: Prop Bolts
From: Ray L Baker <rbaker2(at)juno.com>
Could the bolts themselves be the problem. We keep hearing about substandard parts slipping into the supply. It is possible that not everything labeled AN meets the specs. L. Ray Baker Lake Butler, Fl Building Mark III, SN M1156--N629RB writes: > > maybe something has changed in his reduction or engine over all > those hours? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: WillUribe(at)aol.com
Date: Mar 12, 2001
Subject: Re: Sunday's Flight
Ralph, Glad to read your flying stories. It's the windy season here in the Southwest so we couldn't fly this weekend. Next weekend, weather permitting, Dave and I are flying to an Albuquerque fly-in. To keep new builders motivated here are some old pictures of Russell Duffy's SlingShot flying over Florida's beaches. http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/Page1.html AOL users click here. Enjoy, Will Uribe El Paso, TX http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/ As always do archive because they will be deleted. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: HShack(at)aol.com
Date: Mar 12, 2001
Subject: Re: Gas types ??
In a message dated 3/12/01 4:37:19 PM Eastern Standard Time, twoschmoops(at)yahoo.com writes: > Who uses what gas? Street corner hi octane or jet A blue? > > Why or why not? > > John, most of us around here use Amoco Premium [93 octane]. It's clear, so you can tell if you've added your oil [Pennzoil Aircooled]. Most around here like to pre-mix, although many will object to that. There is never any alcohol added, at least in this neck of the woods. I have talked to pilots who have R-503's with over 500 hours without pulling the heads who use the above combination with one fellow having over 600 on his- he adds 2oz. of "Marvel Mystery Oil" to each 5 gallons of gas [I do too]. This is not to say that other gas & oil brands won't work well, but it's hard to argue with success. Flame away..... Howard Shackleford FS I SC P.S. See you in Morganton. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Richard Swiderski" <swiderskir(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Prop bolts & Prop Flanges
Date: Mar 12, 2001
Ed & All, Drilling and then reaming out the prop flange is something all of us should do. The Rotax flange is tapped to recieve the prop bolts. The most severe forces experienced on them is not tension but shear, and the bolts weakest point on shear is in its threaded area, therefore the strongest setup would be where the bolts shoulder is on shear & not its thread, hence we should drill out the threads & use a nylock nut behind the flange. ...Richard Swiderski ----- Original Message ----- From: "Edward Steuber" <esteuber(at)rochester.rr.com> Sent: Monday, March 12, 2001 8:17 AM Subject: Kolb-List: Prop bolts > > I am rebuilding an Ultrastar and found that the prop (Culver 50x36) has > 1/4inch aircraft bolts that fit in what looks like 5/16 holes in the > prop flange. The prop has evidence (slight burning) on the hub from > running 15 hours since rebuild .Should I ream the holes to 5/16 and go > to the larger aircraft bolt ?.....Also have BRS-5 cannister chute that > is for sale and needs repack but rocket still good. Make an offer > ......Ed Steuber , Western N.Y. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Richard Swiderski" <swiderskir(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Prop Bolts
Date: Mar 12, 2001
Woody, I heard that line before as well. (... It was my understanding that the grade 8 bolts were stronger but more brittle and were not recommended for props due to the excessive vibrations and power surges. ...) Do you think rods & flywheels are devoid of those forces? They have the most extreme forces in the engine & grade 8 is used there. And correct me if I am wrong, but I don't believe any of our metric bolts are AN hardware are they? ...Richard Swiderski ----- Original Message ----- From: "Woody" <duesouth(at)govital.net> Sent: Sunday, March 11, 2001 10:59 PM Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Prop Bolts > > > > > > >Beauford & All, > > > > I quit using 8.8 bolts years ago as they are close to a grade 5 SAE. > > It was my understanding that the grade 8 bolts were stronger but more > brittle and were not recommended for props due to the excessive vibrations > and power surges. The other bolts in question could be counterfeit. It is > a major problem. Have the guy do a Rockwell on the bad bolts and compare > them to his older bolts or the new ones. This is where I would bet my money. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: fuel supply question, more input
Date: Mar 12, 2001
Had to laugh when I read the part about using the siphoned gas in your car, then I had to remember doing the same thing with treated gas I took out of my boat in the spring. The old van drank that oily, storage treated gas - lots of it - with nary a whimper. Lar. Do not Archive. Larry Bourne Palm Springs, Ca. Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose" http://www.biglar.homestead.com/larry.html ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jim Gerken" <gerken(at)us.ibm.com> Sent: Monday, March 12, 2001 7:04 AM Subject: Kolb-List: fuel supply question, more input > > (For the guy asking for input on his fuel supply lines>>>) > when plumbing my mkiii, I used both fuel filters BEFORE the brass "T". So > each tank has a filter before they are combined a the "T". This gives a > couple advantages; first, the flow restriction caused by having the > filters on the intake side of the fuel pump is cut in half (less > restriction because of twice the filter area), second, you get a chance to > notice a plugged filter by the uneven usage from the tanks (one tank would > go down faster than the other if one filter was plugged). It offer some > redundancy, think about it. > I went a step further by brazing a 1/8" nipple fitting to the brass "T" > (and then drilling it thru), to allow tapping off the 1/8" primer line > supply from this point, thus eliminating two more clamped fittings. I > have removed the large primer bulb completly now, and removed the chokes > and cables last year, and now rely on the push-pull primer only. This > works fine and seems to offer the simplest, lightest system. It also > reduces fittings and fuel line length. I have not used a gascolator. > However, I do siphon-clean my tanks every couple months to remove colected > particulate and water. The tanks dip tubes go to 3/4" from bottom, so the > water and dirt particles stay in the tank (until siphoned out). To do this > siphoning, I used a large primer bulb connected to some fuel line hose and > a pc of copper tube 3 feet long so I can get right to the bottom and suck > the chunks and water out of there. To do this, the tank does not have to > be empty, but if it is empty you can see the bottom better. The fuel I > siphon out goes into my car. > > Jim G > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 12, 2001
From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Prop Bolts
It is possible that not > everything labeled AN meets the specs. > > L. Ray Baker Ray and GAng: The prop bolts we use on our Rotax engines are metric. They are not AN hardware. The prop bolts from Warp Drive and Ivo are metric, non-AN type. The 1/4 inch pinch bolts on the Warp Drive are AN hardware.d Like I said in a previous msg, I get my prop bolts at the local "nut and bolt" shop, grade 8.8 and 10.9. I have used both with success. Back in the old days, flying the 447, I broke a lot of AN 1/4 inch prop bolts. Have only broke one on the 912 and none on the 912S. Don't remember breaking a metric prop bolt on the 582 either. john h ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 12, 2001
From: Woody <duesouth(at)govital.net>
Subject: Re: Prop Bolts
> > >Woody, > > I heard that line before as well. (... It was my understanding that the >grade 8 bolts were stronger but more brittle and were not recommended for >props due to the excessive vibrations and power surges. ...) Do you think >rods & flywheels are devoid of those forces? Yes I do. The forces on rod bolts and cap bolts are straight along the axis of the bolt (pulling). The flywheel uses a much shorter bolt and does not have the gyroscopic forces as a prop. On a prop bolt the action is twisting. The twisting force is why you need a softer bolt. A simple analogy is a flexible building is more able to withstand an earthquake than a very rigid building. A similar situation occurs with the prop bolts. > They have the most extreme >forces in the engine & grade 8 is used there. And correct me if I am wrong, >but I don't believe any of our metric bolts are AN hardware are they? >...Richard Swiderski A/N bolts means they passed the "U.S." Army/Navy standard. What ever the qualities are I am sure metrics have a similar standard and our European pals could let us know what the grade is for future reference.. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: typing in caps
Date: Mar 12, 2001
Looks like everyone's gotta get their 2 cents worth in. Let it drop, for Pete's Sake ! ! ! Lar. Larry Bourne Palm Springs, Ca. Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose" http://www.biglar.homestead.com/larry.html ----- Original Message ----- From: <TAILDRAGGER503(at)aol.com> Sent: Monday, March 12, 2001 1:26 PM Subject: Re: Kolb-List: typing in caps > > Please stop the nonsense GIRLS. > > DAVE SNYDER LONG BRANCH ,N.J. BUILDING FSII > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Guy Swenson" <guys(at)rrt.net>
Subject: Re: root rib
Date: Mar 12, 2001
Clay, The following is paragraph 3 pg.. 20 of the "classic" construction manual. "The "tongue" on the inboard wing rib must also be riveted to the bottom inside of the spar tube. Drill holes for two rows of 1/8" x 1/4" rivets with 3/4" spacing, on either side of the tongue. Drill four holes, set four rivets, then drill another set of holes and install more rivets. If all holes are drilled at one time, the tongue will be pushed away from the tube and a permanent gap will result." The construction of the Xtra wing is the same as the Classic with only one change. and that is the three - 5/16(tube) angle braces that go from the leading edge tube to the main spar tube have been changed to 1/2"( tube). I hope this helps Guy S. MK3 Xtra Barnesville, MN -----Original Message----- From: Clay Stuart <cstuart(at)searnet.com> Date: Sunday, March 11, 2001 6:59 PM Subject: Kolb-List: root rib > >On the Mark IIIXtra plans, there are no rivets called for on the metal foot >of the root rib that extends inside the bottom of the wing spar. Looking at >pictures that Roddy from Cincinnati took at the Kolb factory shows >approximately 20 rivets (two rows of 10) in this area. I need to know the >rivet number and spacing for this. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Richard Swiderski" <swiderskir(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Prop Bolts
Date: Mar 13, 2001
Woody, You are missing the point. The bolt with the most extreme loads, tension or shear, are grade 8. And the loads are similar. Like the rod caps, the prop bolts are under tension & like the flywheel they are under sheer. (This is probably not significant as the tension keeps the prop from twisting due to fricion so the shearing force is limited.) The energy in the flywheel is comparable to the prop as it weighs much more & is spinning faster & the velocity component of energy is squared. I assume you mean bending when you say twisting, as twisting would imply a tortional rotation. I could see the bolts bending if they were loose & the prop was actually moving back & forth on the hub, but again if the proper torque/tension is there, this will not be happening. To illustrate thispoint, I had wooden prop that was centered by a pilot in the center hole, and the holes for the prop bolts were way bigger than the bolts. After about 50 hrs I broke the prop when it struck the ground. There was no visible evidence of those holes being elongated. They were not even shiny. Those big bolt holes always worried me & I was expecting one side of each hole to be rubbing against each bolt but that did not happen at all. The bottom line is that grade 8 stretches less & shears harder, and unless there is actual flexing going on, a grade 8 will be a superior fastener than a grade 5 and it seems to me a prop fits this scenario, especially if they are extra long due to a spacer. ...Richard Swiderski ... ----- Original Message ----- From: "Woody" <duesouth(at)govital.net> Sent: Monday, March 12, 2001 10:59 PM Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Prop Bolts > > > > > > > >Woody, > > > > I heard that line before as well. (... It was my understanding that the > >grade 8 bolts were stronger but more brittle and were not recommended for > >props due to the excessive vibrations and power surges. ...) Do you think > >rods & flywheels are devoid of those forces? > > Yes I do. The forces on rod bolts and cap bolts are straight along the > axis of the bolt (pulling). The flywheel uses a much shorter bolt and does > not have the gyroscopic forces as a prop. On a prop bolt the action is > twisting. The twisting force is why you need a softer bolt. A simple > analogy is a flexible building is more able to withstand an earthquake than > a very rigid building. A similar situation occurs with the prop bolts. > > > They have the most extreme > >forces in the engine & grade 8 is used there. And correct me if I am wrong, > >but I don't believe any of our metric bolts are AN hardware are they? > >...Richard Swiderski > > A/N bolts means they passed the "U.S." Army/Navy standard. What ever > the qualities are I am sure metrics have a similar standard and our > European pals could let us know what the grade is for future reference.. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: Prop bolts
Date: Mar 12, 2001
Looks like it's catching, eh ?? No Look Lar. Do not Archive. Larry Bourne Palm Springs, Ca. Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose" http://www.biglar.homestead.com/larry.html ----- Original Message ----- From: "ed mills" <edgmills(at)yahoo.com> Sent: Monday, March 12, 2001 3:22 PM Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Prop bolts > > My apologies to the list on this and recent replies. > I intended to go back "direct" > Ed > --- ed mills wrote: > > > > > > Edward > > I may be interested in that BRS. > > Please call me at 214-544-3500 to discuss, I have > > questions. > > Thanks > > another Edward > > Mills > > > > > Yahoo! Auctions - Buy the things you want at great prices. > http://auctions.yahoo.com/ > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: Prop bolts & Prop Flanges
Date: Mar 13, 2001
I'm following this thread with great interest, since I'm ready to buy the prop bolts, and in a couple of weeks will be mounting the prop, for engine start-up. Yessss ! ! ! I'm interested in the idea of reaming the threads out of the flange, since, as you say, the shank of the bolt will be much stronger in shear than the threads. As has been said before, and tonight, there shouldn't be much shear load on properly torqued bolts, but if they work loose, or the prop compresses, or something, it could possibly be a factor, and any extra safety factor could be a benefit. My biggest concern is one mentioned a few weeks ago, and that is...................how to get an accurate torque reading when using a nyloc nut ?? Possibly go by measuring bolt stretch ??, as some books recommend doing on con rod bolts ?? This is NOT a joke.......measuring bolt stretch is a valid method of calculating load/torque. If used, how much stretch ?? Or would it be better to go with drilled bolts and nuts, and safety wire them at both ends ?? That seems the simplest and surest to me. Final concern.............what is the final word on the AN vs G8 bolt controversy ?? I've come to regard AN as almost bullet-proof, but I've also seen gr. 8 bolts take some enormous punishment and grin at it. Anyone ?? Big Lar. P.S. For the ultimate in massive strength, the tungsten steel that Caterpillar uses on its' bulldozers is the most unbelievably strong material I've ever seen. The abuse those things take is incredible. I had years of experience with it when working in the woods, and the impact loads, and stretching and banging those choker bells took had to be seen to be believed. I wonder.............?? Logger Lar. Larry Bourne Palm Springs, Ca. Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose" http://www.biglar.homestead.com/larry.html ----- Original Message ----- From: "Richard Swiderski" <swiderskir(at)earthlink.net> Sent: Monday, March 12, 2001 6:39 PM Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Prop bolts & Prop Flanges > > Ed & All, > > Drilling and then reaming out the prop flange is something all of us > should do. The Rotax flange is tapped to recieve the prop bolts. The most > severe forces experienced on them is not tension but shear, and the bolts > weakest point on shear is in its threaded area, therefore the strongest> ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 13, 2001
From: John Richmond <twoschmoops(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Gas types ??
Thanks howard, Guess I'm reading too much in the CPS book about the gas test with water (mix, shake up, watch for the milky-ness) I did this test and Whoa! lots of milky. I just snuck some 100LL from my training Cessna Sunday, will make the same test and compare. For everyone, sorry I mis-spoke yesterday, saying "Jet A" instead of 100LL was blue. Was just wondering about everyones gas opinions. Will post the milk-test pictures this week after getting the 93 octane. thanks --- HShack(at)aol.com wrote: > > In a message dated 3/12/01 4:37:19 PM Eastern Standard Time, > twoschmoops(at)yahoo.com writes: > > > > Who uses what gas? Street corner hi octane or jet A blue? > > > > Why or why not? > > > > > > > John, most of us around here use Amoco Premium [93 octane]. It's > clear, so > you can tell if you've added your oil [Pennzoil Aircooled]. Most > around here > like to pre-mix, although many will object to that. There is never > any > alcohol added, at least in this neck of the woods. > > I have talked to pilots who have R-503's with over 500 hours without > pulling > the heads who use the above combination with one fellow having over > 600 on > his- he adds 2oz. of "Marvel Mystery Oil" to each 5 gallons of gas [I > do too]. > > This is not to say that other gas & oil brands won't work well, but > it's hard > to argue with success. > > Flame away..... > > Howard Shackleford > FS I > SC > > P.S. > See you in Morganton. > > > > > > ===== John & Lynn Richmond :-) Palm Coast, Fl. Mk3, 582 Yahoo! Auctions - Buy the things you want at great prices. http://auctions.yahoo.com/ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: dixieshack(at)webtv.net (orie shackelford)
Date: Mar 13, 2001
Subject: Re: prop bolts
Hey Richard, how about this. Prop bolts nor flywheel bolts are in shear, only tension. If they are in shear they've come loose or were installed too loosely. Chevy, for instance uses a dowel to locate the flywheel to the crank. If you get a rumble that disappears when you PUSH the clutch, chances are the flywheel is loose. These and prop bolts supply "pressure" to the flate plate contact areas (in this case) between the prop and flange. If prop bolts or flywheel bolts for that matter come into shear, they're not tight enough and ain't gonna make it. The friction of the contact areas and the maintaining of that friction by proper torque and bolt selection is what spins the prop. I agree that a too soft bolt will stretch and in doing so allows things to come loose. My 50 cents worth Hillbilly Mike FSII from WV ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 13, 2001
From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Gas types ??
Also, started looking for alternate plugs > for the BR8EV and came up with a Bosch platinum plug #4215. Wasn't going to > say anything until I had some hours on them but here goes. > Dave Rains Dave and Gang: A NGK BR8EV in my 447 powered original Firestar put me down on Grand Island, NY, in the middle of the Niagra River, five minutes after flying over Niagra Falls. An electrode came loose and grounded itself on the ground strap, causing the engine failure. That was enough to look for alternative. This was 1988. I came up with Bosch Platinum WR4CP. Strange I can remember that number after all these years. Never had a problem with the WR4CP. However, I had to also run Bosch spark plug wires and caps/boots. NGK spark plug boots do not fit Bosch plugs, etc. Take a look at the ridges around the upper portion of different brand plugs. Most all are different. If they don't match, they will get loose and get gone. According to Rotax, minimum octane for all engines up 912, except 912S and 914, is 87. 912S and 914 is 91. Increased octane does not increase performance. Permits higher compression ratio and prevents knock. Take care, john h ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Chris Sudlow" <suds77(at)telocity.com>
Subject: Re: Prop bolts & Prop Flanges
Date: Mar 13, 2001
Richard, I understand your reasoning, but this goes directly against the IVO instructions...wouldn't they know what's best in terms of set up? Chris -----Original Message----- From: Richard Swiderski <swiderskir(at)earthlink.net> Date: Monday, March 12, 2001 8:49 PM Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Prop bolts & Prop Flanges > >Ed & All, > > Drilling and then reaming out the prop flange is something all of us >should do. The Rotax flange is tapped to recieve the prop bolts. The most >severe forces experienced on them is not tension but shear, and the bolts >weakest point on shear is in its threaded area, therefore the strongest >setup would be where the bolts shoulder is on shear & not its thread, hence >we should drill out the threads & use a nylock nut behind the flange. >...Richard Swiderski > > >----- Original Message ----- >From: "Edward Steuber" <esteuber(at)rochester.rr.com> >To: "Kolb-List Digest List" >Sent: Monday, March 12, 2001 8:17 AM >Subject: Kolb-List: Prop bolts > > > >> >> I am rebuilding an Ultrastar and found that the prop (Culver 50x36) has >> 1/4inch aircraft bolts that fit in what looks like 5/16 holes in the >> prop flange. The prop has evidence (slight burning) on the hub from >> running 15 hours since rebuild .Should I ream the holes to 5/16 and go >> to the larger aircraft bolt ?.....Also have BRS-5 cannister chute that >> is for sale and needs repack but rocket still good. Make an offer >> ......Ed Steuber , Western N.Y. >> >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 13, 2001
From: Jack & Louise Hart <jbhart(at)ldd.net>
Subject: Re: Prop bolts & Prop Flanges
If the prop bolts are torqued to the proper level, the bolt tension loads create sufficient normal force between the prop blade hub and the propeller flange to prevent the hub from slipping on the propeller flange. If this is true there is no shear load on the bolts. The situation is similar to that of a plate clutch on an engine. If the clutch springs are strong enough the clutch will not slip while it is engaged. There is no reason to drill and ream out the tapped holes in the propeller flange and to to install a longer heavier bolt. Jack B. Hart FF004 Jackson, MO > >Ed & All, > > Drilling and then reaming out the prop flange is something all of us >should do. The Rotax flange is tapped to recieve the prop bolts. The most >severe forces experienced on them is not tension but shear, and the bolts >weakest point on shear is in its threaded area, therefore the strongest >setup would be where the bolts shoulder is on shear & not its thread, hence >we should drill out the threads & use a nylock nut behind the flange. >...Richard Swiderski > > Jack & Louise Hart jbhart(at)ldd.net ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 13, 2001
From: JIMMY HANKINSON <jhankin(at)planters.net>
Subject: Torque wrench
Do not have one and need one, what is a good brand of torque wrench and what size is needed on the Kolb? Jimmy Firefly #35 Southeast Georgia ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Vic" <vicw(at)vcn.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List Digest: 38 Msgs - 03/12/01
Date: Mar 13, 2001
Any one have a suggestion on how to safety the EGT probes to the manifold. I have the factory installed probe bosses. Vic The Sundance Kid ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 13, 2001
From: ronoy <ronoy(at)shentel.net>
Subject: Re: Torque wrench/ values
Jimmy, I've used Craftsman tools (Sears) for over 50 years, and while they are not cheap, Sears will happily(?) exchange most any broken/unuseable tool. I've had three Sears torque wrenches, only the clip-stop settable types. One stolen, the others were ft-lb and in-lb, respectively. The only problem with the in-lb wrench is that it doesn't go very high, but then the ft-lb wrench is hard to set for very small values. Check your store. Also, if you have any A&P friends, ask them to price wrenches when Snap-On and Matco come around. They are good tools, and sometimes will give a small discount to A&Ps. When you get one, reset it to Zero when putting it away for the day--or week. Keeps calibration much longer. The three main torque values for a FireFly 447 with IVO prop are: Head bolts 195in-lb (16+ ft-lb), plugs (cold eng.) 238in-lb (20 ft-lb), and prop 150 in-lb (12.5 ft-lb). bn FF070 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mike Lovett" <lovett(at)aerotwin.com>
Subject: garage engineering
Date: Mar 13, 2001
In response to the interesting thread on prop bolts: As a lurker without a Kolb, I hesitate to delve into this, but I think everyone should be very aware of the potential danger of disseminating opinions disguised as facts. Some people have an innate ability to understand structural mechanics (or aerodynamics, or internal combustion...name any germane subject), and some people just think they do. Unfortunately, the latter type are unaware of their self-delusion, and will, in all good conscience, proceed to delude others. To a fault, I tend to preface my opinions with "it seems to me", or some such qualifier, to alert listeners (readers) that they must judge for themselves the correctness of that which follows. In this forum, there are some very smart, well-informed members, and the truth of an issue seems to come to the fore. But with so much at stake, it behooves everyone to: A: be aware of the limitations of your own knowledge. B: be suspect of the limitations of others. I saw this quote attributed to one Richard Whatley (who I never heard of before); I will paraphrase: "He who is unaware of his ignorance will only be misled by his knowledge." Well, there it is. Recloaking, flame suit on...blast away ;) Mike ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mike Lovett" <lovett(at)aerotwin.com>
Subject: Prop bolts & Prop Flanges
Date: Mar 13, 2001
Here is a link to a document on the Sensenich website, pertaining to the significance of prop bolt torque, specifically with regard to wooden propellers: http://www.sensenichprop.com/direct/document/wsb-1.htm ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 13, 2001
From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: garage engineering
> To a fault, I tend to preface my opinions with > "it seems to me", or some such qualifier, to alert listeners > (readers) that they must judge for themselves the > correctness of that which follows. > Mike Mike and Gang: Well said and something all of us should try and remember. I am guilty of forgetting to emphasize that what I say is my own experience and personal opinion. Another thing that is easy to forget when responding to the List is some Kolbers are absolutely green, just like I was when I started searching for my first UL to build in 1983. I was hungry for information and experience and grasped on everything I saw and heard. I think it was the Father of the "Flying Stork" that made a comment about "everybody should drill out their prop flanges, ream them, and use nyloc nuts." I told myself I was too busy to respond and didn't. But these are the type comments Mike is talking about. Personally, I ain't gonna start drilling on my prop flange for anyone, not even Richard, who has been my flying friend for almost 14 years. Don't get pissed Richard, just using you as an example. :-) Not picking on you. Mike, everyone on this List and any other List should take heed to what you said. Thanks, john (just my own personal opinion) h :-) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 13, 2001
From: JIMMY HANKINSON <jhankin(at)planters.net>
Subject: Torque wrench six
Which is better a 3/8" or 1/2" torque wrench for the Kolb? Jimmy Firefly #36 Southeast Georgia ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 13, 2001
From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Prop Debate
> Has there ever been any discussion about some sort of bedding compound > that would increse the friction and yet be removable?? Bob Currie Bob and Gang: Check out the Sensenich web site Mike Lovett posted. They indicate that a painted prop hub helps increase contact friction. http://www.sensenichprop.com/direct/document/wsb-1.htm Take care, john h ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Richard Swiderski" <swiderskir(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: prop bolts message of Mon, 12 Mar 2001 23:58:01
-0800
Date: Mar 13, 2001
Mike, I would agree with you on that. > > Hey Richard, how about this. Prop bolts nor flywheel bolts are in > shear, only tension. If they are in shear they've come loose or were > installed too loosely. Chevy, for instance uses a dowel to locate the > flywheel to the crank. If you get a rumble that disappears when you > PUSH the clutch, chances are the flywheel is loose. These and prop > bolts supply "pressure" to the flate plate contact areas (in this case) > between the prop and flange. If prop bolts or flywheel bolts for that > matter come into shear, they're not tight enough and ain't gonna make > it. The friction of the contact areas and the maintaining of that > friction by proper torque and bolt selection is what spins the prop. I > agree that a too soft bolt will stretch and in doing so allows things to > come loose. > > My 50 cents worth > Hillbilly Mike > FSII from WV ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 13, 2001
From: ronoy <ronoy(at)shentel.net>
Subject: Re: Torque wrench six
3/8th drive for in-lb torque wrench bn ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Richard Swiderski" <swiderskir(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Prop bolts & Prop Flanges
Date: Mar 13, 2001
Chris, they certainly would be the best authoity on what tension to tighten the prop. But I personally believe a some of them are not up to speed on the benefits of using 10.9 grade metric bolts. ...Richard Swiderski ----- Original Message ----- From: "Chris Sudlow" <suds77(at)telocity.com> Sent: Tuesday, March 13, 2001 9:51 AM Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Prop bolts & Prop Flanges > > Richard, > > I understand your reasoning, but this goes directly against the IVO > instructions...wouldn't they know what's best in terms of set up? > > Chris > -----Original Message----- > From: Richard Swiderski <swiderskir(at)earthlink.net> > To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com > Date: Monday, March 12, 2001 8:49 PM > Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Prop bolts & Prop Flanges > > > > > > >Ed & All, > > > > Drilling and then reaming out the prop flange is something all of us > >should do. The Rotax flange is tapped to recieve the prop bolts. The most > >severe forces experienced on them is not tension but shear, and the bolts > >weakest point on shear is in its threaded area, therefore the strongest > >setup would be where the bolts shoulder is on shear & not its thread, hence > >we should drill out the threads & use a nylock nut behind the flange. > >...Richard Swiderski > > > > > >----- Original Message ----- > >From: "Edward Steuber" <esteuber(at)rochester.rr.com> > >To: "Kolb-List Digest List" > >Sent: Monday, March 12, 2001 8:17 AM > >Subject: Kolb-List: Prop bolts > > > > > > > >> > >> I am rebuilding an Ultrastar and found that the prop (Culver 50x36) has > >> 1/4inch aircraft bolts that fit in what looks like 5/16 holes in the > >> prop flange. The prop has evidence (slight burning) on the hub from > >> running 15 hours since rebuild .Should I ream the holes to 5/16 and go > >> to the larger aircraft bolt ?.....Also have BRS-5 cannister chute that > >> is for sale and needs repack but rocket still good. Make an offer > >> ......Ed Steuber , Western N.Y. > >> > >> > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Richard Swiderski" <swiderskir(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Prop bolts & Prop Flanges
Date: Mar 13, 2001
Jack, in thinking it thru, I've come to that postion also. Maybe one could argue that if they were improperly torqued (too loose), a bolt whose shoulder is on shear would hang together longer, but at some point things get rediculous. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jack & Louise Hart" <jbhart(at)ldd.net> Sent: Tuesday, March 13, 2001 1:22 PM Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Prop bolts & Prop Flanges > > If the prop bolts are torqued to the proper level, the bolt tension loads > create sufficient normal force between the prop blade hub and the propeller > flange to prevent the hub from slipping on the propeller flange. If this > is true there is no shear load on the bolts. The situation is similar to > that of a plate clutch on an engine. If the clutch springs are strong > enough the clutch will not slip while it is engaged. There is no reason to > drill and ream out the tapped holes in the propeller flange and to to > install a longer heavier bolt. > > Jack B. Hart FF004 > Jackson, MO > > > > > > >Ed & All, > > > > Drilling and then reaming out the prop flange is something all of us > >should do. The Rotax flange is tapped to recieve the prop bolts. The most > >severe forces experienced on them is not tension but shear, and the bolts > >weakest point on shear is in its threaded area, therefore the strongest > >setup would be where the bolts shoulder is on shear & not its thread, hence > >we should drill out the threads & use a nylock nut behind the flange. > >...Richard Swiderski > > > > > > > Jack & Louise Hart > jbhart(at)ldd.net > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Richard Swiderski" <swiderskir(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: garage engineering
Date: Mar 13, 2001
Mike, That is a well said truth that none of us can argue & all of us would do better to apply! You don't need to own a Kolb to be a valuable contributor. (In my opinion, that is!) Thanks. ...Richard Swiderski ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mike Lovett" <lovett(at)aerotwin.com> Sent: Tuesday, March 13, 2001 6:11 PM Subject: RE: Kolb-List: garage engineering > > In response to the interesting thread on prop bolts: > > As a lurker without a Kolb, I hesitate to delve into this, > but I think everyone should be very aware of the potential > danger of disseminating opinions disguised as facts. > > Some people have an innate ability to understand structural > mechanics (or aerodynamics, or internal combustion...name any > germane subject), and some people just think they do. > Unfortunately, the latter type are unaware of their > self-delusion, and will, in all good conscience, proceed > to delude others. > > To a fault, I tend to preface my opinions with > "it seems to me", or some such qualifier, to alert listeners > (readers) that they must judge for themselves the > correctness of that which follows. > > In this forum, there are some very smart, well-informed > members, and the truth of an issue seems to come to > the fore. But with so much at stake, it behooves > everyone to: > A: be aware of the limitations of your own knowledge. > B: be suspect of the limitations of others. > > I saw this quote attributed to one Richard Whatley (who > I never heard of before); I will paraphrase: > > "He who is unaware of his ignorance will only > be misled by his knowledge." > > Well, there it is. > Recloaking, flame suit on...blast away ;) > > Mike > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: SGreenpg(at)aol.com
Date: Mar 13, 2001
Subject: Sparkplugs
Kolbers, The operation manual for my Rotax 582 schedules the plugs to be changed every 25 hrs. Is this normal useful life? I plan to stager when I change the plugs so that both plugs in one cylinder are not degraded the same but 25 hours seem to be a very short life even in a two cycle. Steven Green Etowah TN MK III 26 hrs ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 13, 2001
From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Sparkplugs
> The operation manual for my Rotax 582 schedules the plugs to be changed every > 25 hrs. > Steven Green Steven and Gang: 25 hours is awful soon, but remember where you are flying. Those Tennessee mountains for full of real hard rocks and tall hard wood trees. I can not remember how much time I put on my plugs in my 582. I will have to see if I can dig out the engine log for it. I think in 1992 and 1993, Rotax prescribed 50 hour change outs and I was not satisfied with changing them that soon. I think a lot has to do with the type of flying you are doing. On my 912 the book called for 200 hour plug changes. That was 8 of those little rascals at $4.95 each plus shipping and handling. I could tell no difference between 200 hour plug performance and 0 time plug performance. So, I ran a set for 225 hours. Then installed a new set. Still no difference in performance. But that is a 912, a completely different engine. On a Rotax 2 cyl 2 stroke engine with one or two plugs per cyl, if you loose all plugs on one cyl you are going down. It will not produce enough power for level flight. The 582 will fly with one plug fouled in each cyl. I have checked that out by killing one side or the other of the dual ignition while in fright. :-) You be the judge. You have a lot of time and money invested in your airplane, and a lot more invested in your butt and your passenger. BTW: How is the new MK III flying? john h ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Christopher John Armstrong" <Tophera(at)centurytel.net>
Subject: Re: Prop Debate
Date: Mar 13, 2001
> > Has there ever been any discussion about some sort of bedding compound > > that would increse the friction and yet be removable?? Bob Currie The SAE series of prop flanges which is used by nearly everything general aviation use torque lugs to carry the torque load to the prop, and eliminate any possibility of the bolts being put into shear. the smaller rotax engines used low enough inertia props and had low enough power that Rotax must have determined that that was not necessary. I wonder if they are stretching things a bit applying that to the 912s and 914? I have no opinion or no reason to think so but bolts are not good shear carrying devices and with wooden props keeping the bolt torque high enough to keep the friction high enough to carry all the shear loads requires rechecking the torque with changes in the temp or humidity or just regularly. Not nearly as much a problem with an aluminum hubed or composite prop that has more constant thickness with conditions. Topher ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Richard Swiderski" <swiderskir(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: garage engineering
Date: Mar 13, 2001
John, Hey, other than srewing up the torque values as Big Lar noted, it was a technically sound, good unnecessary idea! As far as me being pissed, well, if someday you find some wet smelly tires on Miss P... . Richard Swiderski ---- Original Message ----- From: "John Hauck" Kolb-List message posted by: John Hauck > > > I think it was the Father of the "Flying Stork" that made a > comment about "everybody should drill out their prop > flanges, ream them, and use nyloc nuts." I told myself I > was too busy to respond and didn't. But these are the type > comments Mike is talking about. Personally, I ain't gonna > start drilling on my prop flange for anyone, not even > Richard, who has been my flying friend for almost 14 years. > Don't get pissed Richard, just using you as an example. > :-) Not picking on you. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Christopher John Armstrong" <Tophera(at)centurytel.net>
Subject: Re: Prop Debate
Date: Mar 13, 2001
----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob Currie" <bnb(at)erols.com> Sent: Tuesday, March 13, 2001 9:14 PM Subject: Kolb-List: Prop Debate > > I agree that the prop bolts hold the flanges together and the surface > friction takes the shear force "off the bolts" when correctly torqued. > Has there ever been any discussion about some sort of bedding compound > that would increse the friction and yet be removable?? Bob Currie > Hollywood MD Ivo started putting a diamond texture on there prop mounting plates to increase the friction holding the blades, more for the rocking motion cirumferentially that causes the ivo's trouble then for shear but the idea is the same. topher ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 13, 2001
From: Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org>
Subject: Re: Sparkplugs
In my opinion the Rotax schedule for replacing parts is very conservative in some areas. How long your plugs last has a lot to do with what kind of fuel and oil you use. Plugs in a two-stroke last a lot longer on Amoco than they do on 100 LL. I normally pull my plugs out every 25 hours and look at them. If they look great, I put them back in and check them again in another ten hours or so. If they look nasty, then something is wrong with the fuel, the oil ratio, or something else. So you immediately fix whatever it is that is making it create mung on the plugs, and then put in a new set and see how it does. Bear in mind that if you have an ignition problem, sometimes you can "fix" it with a new set of plugs. Bad move. A good ignition will fire snotty plugs. (But that is no reason not to replace them with good plugs!) A failing or weak ignition may need new plugs to run smoothly. Don't be fooled. Just because it "heals itself" with new plugs, it may still be sick. I keep an old set of gnarly but known functional plugs as a "test set" for just such a purpose. Richard Pike MKIII N420P (420ldPoops) > >Kolbers, > >The operation manual for my Rotax 582 schedules the plugs to be changed every >25 hrs. Is this normal useful life? I plan to stager when I change the >plugs so that both plugs in one cylinder are not degraded the same but 25 >hours seem to be a very short life even in a two cycle. > >Steven Green >Etowah TN >MK III 26 hrs > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 13, 2001
From: b young <byoung(at)brigham.net>
Subject: prop extension
to Jim Gerken and the rest of the list. today i installed the prop extension that jim built for me. it took a long time to get the prop bolts here, they have been on back order for 5 to 6 weeks now. the report from the ground is that it seems quieter, no one is saying exactly how much quieter. but my radio transmissions are reported to be quite a bit more clear. i know that i had to readjust the squelch on the intercom to open the vox circuit. HOWEVER i think the biggest improvement is going to be performance. it was real hard to tell because the air was REAL bumpy with the winds blowing 10 to 12 with gust to 20. but it seemed that i had an increase of 7 mph, with some smooth air i will be able to get a better feel for the difference. also while taking off it seemed that the tail wanted to come off the ground quicker and with more authority. that may have been caused some because of the wind. again i will let you know as i get more time with the extension. boyd ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ed Chmielewski" <edchmiel(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Sparkplugs
Date: Mar 13, 2001
Hi Steve, What're you waitin' for, your plugs are an hour past due! But seriously... Mr. Pike is right on about good plugs hiding an ignition - or other - fault. Just keep checking them, some fail early but it's pretty rare, plus that's what dual ignition is for, to get you home when one of four plugs fail. Ed in JXN MkII/503 ----- Original Message ----- From: <SGreenpg(at)aol.com> Sent: Tuesday, March 13, 2001 6:27 PM Subject: Kolb-List: Sparkplugs > > Kolbers, > > The operation manual for my Rotax 582 schedules the plugs to be changed every > 25 hrs. Is this normal useful life? I plan to stager when I change the > plugs so that both plugs in one cylinder are not degraded the same but 25 > hours seem to be a very short life even in a two cycle. > > Steven Green > Etowah TN > MK III 26 hrs > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 13, 2001
From: John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com>
Subject: Re: Sparkplugs
Steven and Group, Here is my experience, about how long spark plugs last in Rotaxes: My 277 could hardly get more than 10 hours on a plug. A 377 and a couple of 447's ran fine for 25 to 50 hours. My 503 with dual ignition went 100 hours on it's first set of plugs. They were still running great and looked O.K. I would think that the 582 would be most like the 503. John Jung ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 13, 2001
From: b young <byoung(at)brigham.net>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List Digest: 38 Msgs - 03/12/01
<<<< Drilling and then reaming out the prop flange is something all of us should do. The Rotax flange is tapped to recieve the prop bolts. The most severe forces experienced on them is not tension but shear, and the bolts weakest point on shear is in its threaded area, therefore the strongest setup would be where the bolts shoulder is on shear & not its thread, hence we should drill out the threads & use a nylock nut behind the flange. ...Richard Swiderski>>>> on the instructions for my prop it sais that if the prop flange was threaded for metric threads that an option was to dril it out and use 5/16 bolts. my flange was not threaded and the 5/16 bolts work great the grip legnth of the bolt was such that i could just start to see the last thread on the back side of the flange. i put on a washer and the a nocknut. flew the pattern a couple of times then stoped to retorque the bolts with no change. boyd ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 13, 2001
From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Prop Debate
I wonder if they are > stretching things a bit applying that to the 912s and 914? > Topher Topher and Gang: 912, 912S and 914 prop flanges have drive lugs, as to the prop extentions that I use. Would not want to leave home without them. I think the 582 has drive lugs also. Too tired to go look it up. Just finished final assembly of brakes, wheels, and axles, only to find out that I have to take one of the apart to safety two bolts that can not be reached from outside. That means removing three safetied screws in the rotor and a cotter key in the axle nut. Then do it all over again. It is late and I am tired. Will do it tomorrow. Take care, john h ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 13, 2001
From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Sparkplugs
Plugs in a two-stroke last a lot longer on Amoco than > they do on 100 LL. just such a purpose. > Richard Pike Richard and Gang: Plugs on my 912 would start lead fouling at about 75 hours on a steady diet of 100LL on long XCs. Don't know about around town flying cause I usually run 92 or 93 octane from the country store. No problems with that fuel. Take care, john h ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 13, 2001
From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: prop extension
> today i installed the prop extension that jim built for > me. > boyd Boyd and Gang: What is the length of the extension? john h ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Denny Rowe" <rowedl(at)alltel.net>
Subject: Re: Torque wrench six
Date: Mar 13, 2001
Jimmy, My personal opinion is the 3/8 drive torque wrench is better suited for Kolb work. Denny ----- Original Message ----- From: JIMMY HANKINSON <jhankin(at)planters.net> Sent: Tuesday, March 13, 2001 7:41 PM Subject: Kolb-List: Torque wrench six > > Which is better a 3/8" or 1/2" torque wrench for the Kolb? > > Jimmy > Firefly #36 > Southeast Georgia > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jim Minewiser" <flykolb(at)carolina.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Sunday's Flight
Date: Mar 14, 2001
Will What part of Florida is that in the pic? I see lots of empty lots by the beach. Jim Mark III Charlotte, NC ----- Original Message ----- From: <WillUribe(at)aol.com> Sent: Monday, March 12, 2001 8:20 PM Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Sunday's Flight > > Ralph, > Glad to read your flying stories. It's the windy season here in the > Southwest so we couldn't fly this weekend. Next weekend, weather permitting, > Dave and I are flying to an Albuquerque fly-in. > To keep new builders motivated here are some old pictures of Russell Duffy's > SlingShot flying over Florida's beaches. > http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/Page1.html > > AOL users click here. > > Enjoy, > Will Uribe > El Paso, TX > http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/ > > As always do archive because they will be deleted. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Kottke, Dwight" <dkottke(at)scherping.carlisle.com>
Subject: Torque wrench/ values
Date: Mar 14, 2001
I also am looking for a good torque wrench. What range should I get for use on my 377 Firestar? -----Original Message----- From: ronoy [mailto:ronoy(at)shentel.net] Sent: Tuesday, March 13, 2001 4:54 PM Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Torque wrench/ values Jimmy, I've used Craftsman tools (Sears) for over 50 years, and while they are not cheap, Sears will happily(?) exchange most any broken/unuseable tool. I've had three Sears torque wrenches, only the clip-stop settable types. One stolen, the others were ft-lb and in-lb, respectively. The only problem with the in-lb wrench is that it doesn't go very high, but then the ft-lb wrench is hard to set for very small values. Check your store. Also, if you have any A&P friends, ask them to price wrenches when Snap-On and Matco come around. They are good tools, and sometimes will give a small discount to A&Ps. When you get one, reset it to Zero when putting it away for the day--or week. Keeps calibration much longer. The three main torque values for a FireFly 447 with IVO prop are: Head bolts 195in-lb (16+ ft-lb), plugs (cold eng.) 238in-lb (20 ft-lb), and prop 150 in-lb (12.5 ft-lb). bn FF070 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Waligroski, Gregg" <Gregg.Waligroski(at)pantellos.com>
Subject: Torque on a Nylok
Date: Mar 14, 2001
Sorry if this was already answered: My biggest concern is one mentioned a few weeks ago, and that is...................how to get an accurate torque reading when using a nyloc nut ?? Possibly go by measuring bolt stretch ??, The way we were doing it on some applications was to take a dial reading torque wrench and measure a running torque of the bolt prior to it seating (actually we took three readings and used the average). We then added the torque required for preload to the running torque number measured to do the final tightening. We also on occasion used measurements of bolt "stretch". The difficult thing about bolt torques determining preload is the friction factor on tightening the bolt can affect the actual preload achieved. So for example if you have a lot of friction in the nut/bolt or bolt/nut/washer combo your actual bolt preload will be lower than desired. On the other end is a properly torqued bolt has a preload value somewhere around 85% (if my memory serves me right) of yield, so if you over torque it you are heading towards yield (loss of preload) or failure (aircraft bolts can elongate at yield so you don't get there too quickly). Many times a bolt torque table will tell you that it assumes clean, lubricated fasteners are being used so that you obtain a correct preload. Others say nothing and probably assume just clean fasteners. So, how do you torque a bolt? I clean the parts and aim for the torque value recommended. If it's a nylok (I don't have a dial torque wrench) I try a test bolt and try to back my "click" torque wrench in on the value. I take 70% (more afraid of over torque) of that, add it to the recommended value and call it done. So far so good. Anyone still awake? Gregg Kolb in North Houston (ex Colorado), still no location or time to fly (Yes Ed D. I still need to call you...) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: ULDAD(at)aol.com
Date: Mar 14, 2001
Subject: Re: garage engineering
Good observation and very well put. Sometimes it's hard to tell the experts from the experts ( I think you know what I mean). Bill ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 13, 2001
From: Woody <duesouth(at)govital.net>
Subject: Re: Torque wrench six
> >Which is better a 3/8" or 1/2" torque wrench for the Kolb? > >Jimmy >Firefly #36 >Southeast Georgia Most bolts on a Kolb will be in a 7/16 or 1/2 inch head. A 3/8 drive will be sufficient. As with any tool in my opinion spend as much as you want but temper it with how often you will use it. If you are a professional mechanic a Snap-on will be what you need. If a once a year torquer then a cheaper model may be adequate. I use a 1/2 drive long bar type with the long pointer. I do not know how accurate it is but I can get all torques the same which is important. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 14, 2001
From: Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org>
Subject: Hole-y Firefly spar Batman!
There is a Firefly owner that moved into this area, couldn't figure out why his airplane wants to always roll to the right. He brought it over, the left wing has about 2" of twist built in. (It was built by a third party, acquired in an estate sale.) The new owner wants to know if it is safe to drill out the rivets in the spar, rotate the spar just enough to get the rivet holes into "fresh meat" and reuse the spar. I told him if it was my Firefly I would buy a new spar, would not reuse the old one, but would ask the list anyway just in case. Dennis? Firefly gurus? Anybody? Richard Pike MKIII N420P (420ldPoops) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 14, 2001
From: slyck <slyck(at)frontiernet.net>
Subject: hol-e-spar
Richard and Kolbers, obviously the best fix is throw away the old part and put in the new, but it depends on where most of the twist is. ---if in the last few out board ribs, I'd just do them over. ---if between the "H" and the inboard rib, thats a different story. I'm currently in the last stage of SLOOOWLY stuffing a new spar into a mkIII wing--only 3 ft to go. You actually slide the wing onto the spar, tapping each rib gently with a rubber mallet sequentially, 1/4" at a time , monitoring the indexing of the vertical lift strut hole as I go. Should be done this weekend. (my $.02) --BB ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dennis Souder" <flykolb(at)epix.net>
Subject: Hole-y Firefly spar Batman!
Date: Mar 14, 2001
Richard, Your friend probably could do sufficient correction with repositioning only the ribs beyond the spar attach area - and not bother with the inboard wing ribs. I say probably, because I am not looking at the whole picture. (A lot would depend upon what is happening along the length or the rear spar tube ... whether is straight or bowed up or bowed down.) Correcting only the outboard ribs might result is a very slight s-curve to the rear spar, but the important thing is to have the end of the wing match the other wing tip. The flange rivets in the outboard wing rib could be drilled out and a new set of holes drilled, because this is totally uncritical at the end of the spar. There is no bending stress at the end of the spar, so more holes are not a concern. The next to the last rib could probably be done with drilling out to a 5/32" rivet. With the flange rivets drilled out and the rib rotated you will then have a certain amount of misalignment between the holes in the spar and the holes in the flange. It is very probable with the amount of twist you describe, that drilling to 5/32 would clean up both holes and the 5/32 rivet would do the fix. The next rib in would probably be very close and re-riveting with 1/8" rivets might do the job, or he could do the 5/32" rivets again. This procedure has been done before - but no guarantees for the next one though. Good luck. Dennis -----Original Message----- From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Richard Pike Sent: Wednesday, March 14, 2001 4:50 PM Subject: Kolb-List: Hole-y Firefly spar Batman! There is a Firefly owner that moved into this area, couldn't figure out why his airplane wants to always roll to the right. He brought it over, the left wing has about 2" of twist built in. (It was built by a third party, acquired in an estate sale.) The new owner wants to know if it is safe to drill out the rivets in the spar, rotate the spar just enough to get the rivet holes into "fresh meat" and reuse the spar. I told him if it was my Firefly I would buy a new spar, would not reuse the old one, but would ask the list anyway just in case. Dennis? Firefly gurus? Anybody? Richard Pike MKIII N420P (420ldPoops) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Denny Rowe" <rowedl(at)alltel.net>
Subject: rear spar boogie Mk-3
Date: Mar 14, 2001
Kolbers, All this spar talk is hitting home here, except my problem is with the 1 1/4" dia rear spar. I have been looking at my wings a little more closely as I near time to cover them, i noticed that the holes drilled in the rear spar for the aileron piano hinges on the right wing do not seem to be in a straight line. The previous owner of the kit located these hinges and when I had the control surfaces attatched, all seemed to work smoothly. It seems that now I will have to double ckeck the aileron and flap hinge lines and rehang everything for a second look. If I decide that things do not meet specs, do you folks think it would be OK to drill out and rotate the rear spar or maybe turn it end for end and redrill, or should I just replace the outer 12 ft section with new tubing? Either way, it looks to be an easy job. Thanks, Denny ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 15, 2001
From: "Richard Neilsen" <neilsenr(at)state.mi.us>
Subject: Re: Hole-y Firefly spar Batman!
OK This isn't the best solution and that would be to replace the main spar but the forward attachment could be adjusted just enough to get the roll out. I don't know about the firefly but the MKIII has plenty of room to do this. Just drill another hole in the attachment tab. You will want to drill the hole far enough from the original hole and far enough from the edge that you will not weaken the tab but this should help. There will be some increased drag over a wing rebuild but it would be less than what he is getting now. You might want to talk to Kolb to make sure your not causing other problems. My .02 cent worth Rick Neilsen Lansing Michigan VW Powered MKIII >>> robertdoebler(at)juno.com 03/14/01 05:18PM >>> writes: > > There is a Firefly owner that moved into this area, couldn't figure > out why > his airplane wants to always roll to the right. He brought it over, > the > left wing has about 2" of twist built in. (It was built by a third > party, ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 15, 2001
From: JIMMY HANKINSON <jhankin(at)planters.net>
Subject: Flying Time
Help!!! Don't seem that I am going to be able to use the two-seater of a friend to get some flying time in before I venture up by myself. Is there anyone with a Mark III in my area that would be willing to give me some flying time with them. My area is Savannah, Augusta, Stateboro, and Dublin Georgia area. I live within close enough of these to trqvel to them. My home area is Statesboro, Georgia, others are within 60-80 miles away. Willing to pay for any expences. I have a Firefly with a 477 Rotax. Have done a lot of ground taxing, have some flight experience in full size aircrqft, flown radio control aircraft for 30 years. Jimmy Firefly #36 Southeast Georgia ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 15, 2001
From: Woody <duesouth(at)govital.net>
Subject: Re: rear spar boogie Mk-3
>i noticed that the holes drilled in the rear spar for the >aileron piano hinges on the right wing do not seem to be in a straight >line. all seemed to work smoothly. Whats the problem? if the ailerons move freely it should not be a problem and trying to fix it will only increase your problems. In my own crude but humble opinion. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: Torque on a Nylok
Date: Mar 15, 2001
Just for a parting shot on this thread, after reading & re-reading the alternatives, I think ol' Lar is just gonna stick with the tried and true. Drilled head prop bolts carefully torqued into the prop flange, and safety-wired, then re-checked periodically. A couple of ideas presented sound very good, but I think I've got enuf experimentation on Vamoose already. Thanks everybody for your input. Cautious Lar. Larry Bourne Palm Springs, Ca. Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose" http://www.biglar.homestead.com/larry.html . ----- Original Message ----- From: "Waligroski, Gregg" <Gregg.Waligroski(at)pantellos.com> Sent: Wednesday, March 14, 2001 5:41 AM Subject: Kolb-List: Torque on a Nylok > > Sorry if this was already answered: > > My biggest > concern is one mentioned a few weeks ago, and that is...................how > to get an accurate torque reading when using a nyloc nut ?? Possibly go by > measuring bolt stretch ??, > > The way we were doing it on some applications was to take a dial reading > torque wrench and measure a running torque of the bolt prior to it seating > (actually we took three readings and used the average). We then added the > torque required for preload to the running torque number measured to do the > final tightening. We also on occasion used measurements of bolt "stretch".> ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 15, 2001
From: b young <byoung(at)brigham.net>
Subject: torque values
The way we were doing it on some applications was to take a dial reading torque wrench and measure a running torque of the bolt prior to it seating (actually we took three readings and used the average).>>>>>> a while ago i posted on the web a page out of the faa advisory circular ac 43.13-1b acceptable methods, techniques, and practices --- aircraft inspection and repair..... in the top box on the page it says " caution the following torque values are derived from oil free cadmium plated threads." what i read from this is that the resistanceor friction in twisting the nuts onto the bolts are allready figured into the printed values. but then i could be wrong. boyd ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 15, 2001
From: b young <byoung(at)brigham.net>
Subject: prop spacer
Boyd and Gang: What is the length of the extension? john h my new extention is 3 inch face to face. with an additional 5/16 icnh prop centering boss. for 3 5/16 overall. my prop uses the 75mm bolt patern so the bolts had to be long continuous bolts. not 2 sets of short bolts. boyd ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 15, 2001
From: b young <byoung(at)brigham.net>
Subject: bolt torque
for bolt torque,,,,, i found the file and posted it again. the url is http://www.brigham.net/~byoung/torque.jpg boyd ________________________________________________________________________________
From: TAILDRAGGER503(at)aol.com
Date: Mar 16, 2001
Subject: FIRESTAR ll Vert. Stab. Bracket
Hello FSll Builders, As you all know the plans aren't perfect but, it seems to me that the vert. stab. bracket has a very impotant function.It is not stated what thickness it is on my plans,can anyone help me ? Thanks alot DAVE SNYDER LONG BRANCH ,N.J. BUILDING FSII ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ron or Mary Payne" <ronormar(at)apex.net>
Subject: Re: FIRESTAR ll Vert. Stab. Bracket
Date: Mar 16, 2001
On sheet 5 of my plans there is a note in the upper left section of the drawing just ahead of the bracket that states "make brackets out of .032 aluminum". I agree that sometimes the plans are a little hard to read but my experience is that the information is usually there. Just a little hard to find. Ron Payne Building FireStar II Gilbertsville, Ky. ----- Original Message ----- From: <TAILDRAGGER503(at)aol.com> Sent: Friday, March 16, 2001 6:57 AM Subject: Kolb-List: FIRESTAR ll Vert. Stab. Bracket > > Hello FSll Builders, As you all know the plans aren't perfect but, it seems > to me that the vert. stab. bracket has a very impotant function.It is not > stated what thickness it is on my plans,can anyone help me ? Thanks alot > > DAVE SNYDER LONG BRANCH ,N.J. BUILDING FSII > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Frances B. Nicholson" <ultraquilt(at)cconnect.net>
Subject: Re: Liability Ins.
Date: Mar 16, 2001
I received my Firestar II in early January, along with a 503DCDI, 3 bladed IVO prop, cockpit enclosure, BRS 750 chute, oversize wheels and Brakes. I have finished the wings and Ailerons up through the 4th coat of poly-brush and am now working on the tail feathers. With a break in the weather (its been pretty cool here in eastern NC), I should be just about completed in 10 to 12 weeks. I located a field to the south of my home. Its in the middle of farm country. 2500' grass strip, seven bay hanger & utilities for a very good price. Ultralights & homebuilt a/c welcome. The only catch, the owner wants everyone to have liability insurance. Where did you fellows get your insurance? Your local Ins. Co. or some other organization? Nick PS After working for an aircraft co. for 33 years, I'm now retiring and doing something different!!! Building an aircraft. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ron or Mary Payne" <ronormar(at)apex.net>
Subject: Re: Liability Ins.
Date: Mar 16, 2001
I got mine through my local insurance agent. $15,000 coverage on the FireStar while not in motion. $500,000 liability excluding passenger. Premium of $380.63 per year. You can also get this coverage from Avemco. Ron Payne ----- Original Message ----- From: "Frances B. Nicholson" <ultraquilt(at)cconnect.net> Sent: Friday, March 16, 2001 12:25 PM Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Liability Ins. > > I received my Firestar II in early January, along with a 503DCDI, 3 > bladed IVO prop, cockpit enclosure, BRS 750 chute, oversize wheels and > Brakes. I have finished the wings and Ailerons up through the 4th coat > of poly-brush and am now working on the tail feathers. With a break in > the weather (its been pretty cool here in eastern NC), I should be just > about completed in 10 to 12 weeks. I located a field to the south of my > home. Its in the middle of farm country. 2500' grass strip, seven bay > hanger & utilities for a very good price. Ultralights & homebuilt a/c > welcome. > The only catch, the owner wants everyone to have liability insurance. > Where did you fellows get your insurance? Your local Ins. Co. or some > other organization? > > Nick > > PS After working for an aircraft co. for 33 years, I'm now retiring > and doing something different!!! Building an aircraft. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 16, 2001
From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Liability Ins.
> Where did you fellows get your insurance? Your local Ins. Co. or some > other organization? > > Nick Nick and Gang: If you are going to register the Firestar homebuilt experiementa you can get liability with AVEMCO. That is who I have my coverage with. Some of the other guys can fill you in on UL liability. I am not up to snuff on that area. john h ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 16, 2001
From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Liability Ins.
> I received my Firestar II in early January, along with a 503DCDI, 3 > bladed IVO prop, cockpit enclosure, BRS 750 chute, oversize wheels and > Brakes. > Nick Nick and Gang: BTW, welcome to retirement and the Kolb Builders List. john h ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jim Minewiser" <flykolb(at)carolina.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Liability Ins.
Date: Mar 16, 2001
Nick Where in eastern NC are You? Jim Mark III Charlotte, NC ----- Original Message ----- From: "Frances B. Nicholson" <ultraquilt(at)cconnect.net> Sent: Friday, March 16, 2001 1:25 PM Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Liability Ins. > > I received my Firestar II in early January, along with a 503DCDI, 3 > bladed IVO prop, cockpit enclosure, BRS 750 chute, oversize wheels and > Brakes. I have finished the wings and Ailerons up through the 4th coat > of poly-brush and am now working on the tail feathers. With a break in > the weather (its been pretty cool here in eastern NC), I should be just > about completed in 10 to 12 weeks. I located a field to the south of my > home. Its in the middle of farm country. 2500' grass strip, seven bay > hanger & utilities for a very good price. Ultralights & homebuilt a/c > welcome. > The only catch, the owner wants everyone to have liability insurance. > Where did you fellows get your insurance? Your local Ins. Co. or some > other organization? > > Nick > > PS After working for an aircraft co. for 33 years, I'm now retiring > and doing something different!!! Building an aircraft. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 16, 2001
From: Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org>
Subject: Re: Liability Ins.
I am using Avemco through the EAA, not a bad deal. Richard Pike MKIII N420P (420ldPoops) > > >I received my Firestar II in early January, along with a 503DCDI, 3 >bladed IVO prop, cockpit enclosure, BRS 750 chute, oversize wheels and >Brakes. I have finished the wings and Ailerons up through the 4th coat >of poly-brush and am now working on the tail feathers. With a break in >the weather (its been pretty cool here in eastern NC), I should be just >about completed in 10 to 12 weeks. I located a field to the south of my >home. Its in the middle of farm country. 2500' grass strip, seven bay >hanger & utilities for a very good price. Ultralights & homebuilt a/c >welcome. >The only catch, the owner wants everyone to have liability insurance. >Where did you fellows get your insurance? Your local Ins. Co. or some >other organization? > >Nick > >PS After working for an aircraft co. for 33 years, I'm now retiring >and doing something different!!! Building an aircraft. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: Progress!
Date: Mar 16, 2001
Tried to send a message about the new "Odds & Ends" page I added to my "Building Vamoose" website tonight, but for some reason it's kicking back at me, saying I'm not a member of the List. Whaaaa ?? Check the Matronics Kick List, and my name isn't on there; checked my Outlook Express Properties, and my address & all are OK. Now I'm really baffled. Lar. Larry Bourne Palm Springs, Ca. Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose" http://www.biglar.homestead.com/larry.html . ----- Original Message ----- From: "larrybiglar" <larrybiglar(at)email.msn.com> Sent: Saturday, March 10, 2001 5:47 PM Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Progress! > > I should have added, send 'em to me if you want, and I'll post them. > Lar. > > Larry Bourne > Palm Springs, Ca. > Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose" > http://www.biglar.homestead.com/larry.html > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "larrybiglar" <larrybiglar(at)email.msn.com> > To: > Sent: Saturday, March 10, 2001 5:41 PM > Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Progress! > > > > > > Good on you ! ! ! That's a major milestone, and one that's got me > stalled. > > Lar. > > > > Larry Bourne > > Palm Springs, Ca. > > Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose" > > http://www.biglar.homestead.com/larry.html > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: "Ray L Baker" <rbaker2(at)juno.com> > > To: > > Sent: Saturday, March 10, 2001 3:54 PM > > Subject: Kolb-List: Progress! > > > > > > > > > > Listers, > > > > > > I have to tell someone! I FINISHED PAINTING TODAY! Believe me it is > > > something to shout about. I managed to get finished before the hot > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 16, 2001
From: Julian Warren <jgw300(at)webolium.com>
Subject: Mark III Xtra
Thought I would let everyone know that I am buildingl! I have my tail feathers completed, and getting well into the Port wing. You guys helped a lot with tools and ideas. Everything going together very nicely. My favorite tools now are my saw, pneumatic Pop Rivet Gun, and my Spring loaded punch. My daughters future Father-in-law did a laser balance on my tables which work really well. It is nice to put a level on the wing and see the bubble dead center at any point. I am keeping in touch by reading the list, but it seems strange to read 30 messages at a time. Julian Warren Eugene, Oregon ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 17, 2001
From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Mark III Xtra
> Thought I would let everyone know that I am buildingl! > Julian Warren Julian and Gang: Way to go! If I don't get busy, you will be flying before I get my MK III repaired. :-) Should have the fuselage out of the "mole hole" Monday. Then I can start on the wings. Have to replace outboard rib, left wing, repair bow tip bracing, and replace a section of trailing edge tube. Repair damage to outboard section of left aileron. That will required replacing the same amount of leading edge tube as the wing, inboard past the 2d rib. Then all I have to do is remove fabric both wings, recover, dope and paint. Hope to be finished by the first week or so of May. That's give me a month to fly and get in shape to go to Barrow. Take care, john h ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 17, 2001
From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: 912, 914 Service Bulletin
Gents and Ladies: I got this Service Bulletin from Rotax yesterday, but can not open their web page to check it out. I do not think it pertains to the 912S, but am not sure. I do not know if I have a single valve spring engine or not. The SB probably gives serial numbers for the engines it pertains to. Can someone check it out? I will call Ronnie Smith, South Mississippi Lt Acft, Monday and see what is up. Take care, john h "updates@rotax-owner.com" wrote: > > March 16, 2001 > > Rotax has recently released the following Service Bulletins: > > SB-912-022, SB-912-022UL, SB-914-011, SB-914-011UL > Replacement Of Valve Spring Retainer On Single Valve Spring Configuration of Rotax Engine Type 912 And 914 (Series) > > Summary of Service Bulletins: > This general summary is not intended to replace the information provided in the bulletins. > > On single valve spring versions of the ROTAX 912 and 914 series engines at first engine run > or oil system maintenance the hydraulic valve tappets may be emptied and filled with air > resulting in a delayed purging of the lubrication system. Oil system maintenance would > be considered any process that involves purging all of the oil from the engine (not > simply an oil change) such as removal of oil lines, oil cooler or oil pump. > > A delayed purging of the lubrication system may cause cracks to form on the valve spring retainer. > > As a preventative measure, all single valve spring engines must be refitted with new > reinforced valve spring retainers. > > Please contact the authorized Rotax distributor or Service Center in your area for more information regarding this service bulletin. > > IMPORTANT NOTICE! > Aviation regulations now require Rotax to release a separate Service Bulletin for non - certified engines (UL designator). The separate bulletins contain only information indicating the non - certified (UL) engines affected by the bulletin and are normally only one page long. Complete information covering the service issue is contained in the certified service bulletin. > > Owners of non - certified (UL) engines will need to download and review both the non-certified and certified version of these bulletins. > > To view or download these new Service Bulletins, point your web browser to: > http://www.rotax-owner.com > > This automatic service document update is provided free of charge to registered Rotax Owners Association News web site users. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: TAILDRAGGER503(at)aol.com
Date: Mar 17, 2001
Subject: Tech Tip
If you need to replace a gusset, place a piece a paper over the tubes that have holes in them and rub the tubes through the paper leaving a pattern of holes on the paper. Next, transfer the hole marks on the new gusset. Hope it makes building a little easier. Dave Snyder Long Branch ,N.J. Building FSII ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "R. Harris" <rharris@magnolia-net.com>
Subject: Re: 912, 914 Service Bulletin
Date: Mar 17, 2001
John , the service bulletin covers 912s s/n 4,922.501 to 4,420.253 , my 912 is too old thank goodness c-ya Richard ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Hauck" <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> Sent: Saturday, March 17, 2001 7:41 AM Subject: Kolb-List: 912, 914 Service Bulletin > > Gents and Ladies: > > I got this Service Bulletin from Rotax yesterday, but can > not open their web page to check it out. I do not think it > pertains to the 912S, but am not sure. I do not know if I > have a single valve spring engine or not. The SB probably > gives serial numbers for the engines it pertains to. > > Can someone check it out? > > I will call Ronnie Smith, South Mississippi Lt Acft, Monday > and see what is up. > > Take care, > > john h > > "updates@rotax-owner.com" wrote: > > > > March 16, 2001 > > > > Rotax has recently released the following Service Bulletins: > > > > SB-912-022, SB-912-022UL, SB-914-011, SB-914-011UL > > Replacement Of Valve Spring Retainer On Single Valve Spring > Configuration > of Rotax Engine Type 912 And 914 (Series) > > > > Summary of Service Bulletins: > > This general summary is not intended to replace the information > provided > in the bulletins. > > > > On single valve spring versions of the ROTAX 912 and 914 series > engines at > first engine run > > or oil system maintenance the hydraulic valve tappets may be > emptied and > filled with air > > resulting in a delayed purging of the lubrication system. Oil > system > maintenance would > > be considered any process that involves purging all of the oil > from the > engine (not > > simply an oil change) such as removal of oil lines, oil cooler or > oil > pump. > > > > A delayed purging of the lubrication system may cause cracks to > form on > the valve spring retainer. > > > > As a preventative measure, all single valve spring engines must > be > refitted with new > > reinforced valve spring retainers. > > > > Please contact the authorized Rotax distributor or Service Center > in your > area for more information regarding this service bulletin. > > > > IMPORTANT NOTICE! > > Aviation regulations now require Rotax to release a separate > Service > Bulletin for non - certified engines (UL designator). The > separate > bulletins contain only information indicating the non - > certified > (UL) > engines affected by the bulletin and are normally only one > page > long. > Complete information covering the service issue is contained > in the > certified service bulletin. > > > > Owners of non - certified (UL) engines will need to download and > review > both the non-certified and certified version of these > bulletins. > > > > To view or download these new Service Bulletins, point your web > browser > to: > > http://www.rotax-owner.com > > > > This automatic service document update is provided free of charge > to > registered Rotax Owners Association News web site users. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "R. Harris" <rharris@magnolia-net.com>
Subject: Re: 912, 914 Service Bulletin
Date: Mar 17, 2001
OOPS John the s/n are 4,922.501 to 4,922.636 .. sorry got on the wrong line C-YA Richard ----- Original Message ----- From: "R. Harris" <rharris@magnolia-net.com> Sent: Saturday, March 17, 2001 12:41 PM Subject: Re: Kolb-List: 912, 914 Service Bulletin > > John , the service bulletin covers 912s s/n 4,922.501 to 4,420.253 , my > 912 is too old thank goodness > > c-ya Richard > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "John Hauck" <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> > To: "Kolb List" > Sent: Saturday, March 17, 2001 7:41 AM > Subject: Kolb-List: 912, 914 Service Bulletin > > > > > > Gents and Ladies: > > > > I got this Service Bulletin from Rotax yesterday, but can > > not open their web page to check it out. I do not think it > > pertains to the 912S, but am not sure. I do not know if I > > have a single valve spring engine or not. The SB probably > > gives serial numbers for the engines it pertains to. > > > > Can someone check it out? > > > > I will call Ronnie Smith, South Mississippi Lt Acft, Monday > > and see what is up. > > > > Take care, > > > > john h > > > > "updates@rotax-owner.com" wrote: > > > > > > March 16, 2001 > > > > > > Rotax has recently released the following Service Bulletins: > > > > > > SB-912-022, SB-912-022UL, SB-914-011, SB-914-011UL > > > Replacement Of Valve Spring Retainer On Single Valve Spring > > Configuration > > of Rotax Engine Type 912 And 914 (Series) > > > > > > Summary of Service Bulletins: > > > This general summary is not intended to replace the information > > provided > > in the bulletins. > > > > > > On single valve spring versions of the ROTAX 912 and 914 series > > engines at > > first engine run > > > or oil system maintenance the hydraulic valve tappets may be > > emptied and > > filled with air > > > resulting in a delayed purging of the lubrication system. Oil > > system > > maintenance would > > > be considered any process that involves purging all of the oil > > from the > > engine (not > > > simply an oil change) such as removal of oil lines, oil cooler or > > oil > > pump. > > > > > > A delayed purging of the lubrication system may cause cracks to > > form on > > the valve spring retainer. > > > > > > As a preventative measure, all single valve spring engines must > > be > > refitted with new > > > reinforced valve spring retainers. > > > > > > Please contact the authorized Rotax distributor or Service Center > > in your > > area for more information regarding this service bulletin. > > > > > > IMPORTANT NOTICE! > > > Aviation regulations now require Rotax to release a separate > > Service > > Bulletin for non - certified engines (UL designator). The > > separate > > bulletins contain only information indicating the non - > > certified > > (UL) > > engines affected by the bulletin and are normally only one > > page > > long. > > Complete information covering the service issue is contained > > in the > > certified service bulletin. > > > > > > Owners of non - certified (UL) engines will need to download and > > review > > both the non-certified and certified version of these > > bulletins. > > > > > > To view or download these new Service Bulletins, point your web > > browser > > to: > > > http://www.rotax-owner.com > > > > > > This automatic service document update is provided free of charge > > to > > registered Rotax Owners Association News web site users. > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle)
Date: Mar 17, 2001
yak-list(at)matronics.com, rocket-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: New Webpages on Jet830 CNC Converstion...
Hi Listers, A couple of people emailed me and ask if I was ever going to finish my web site on the Jet 830 Vertical Mill CNC conversion that I did a couple of years back. Hum, I thought, that's a good idea... So I took a few pictures today and put up a site on the converstion. Feel free to email me if you have questions. It was a really fun project, and well, everyone needs a CNC mill... ;-) Have a look at the following URL for the new Jet 830 pages: http://www.matronics.com/cnc2 And here's a link to the older pages on the CNC converstion I did on the Sherline milling machine: http://www.matronics.com/cnc Best regards, Matt Dralle -- Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551 925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft Great minds discuss ideas, Average minds discuss events, Small minds discuss people... ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jim Minewiser" <flykolb(at)carolina.rr.com>
Subject: Tires
Date: Mar 17, 2001
I have a Mark II with Carlisle tires, 15 x 600 - 6 which I need to replace. They only use 14 lbs. of air pressure. Does anyone know where I might get some? Jim Mark III Charlotte, NC ________________________________________________________________________________
From: cajwoods(at)mindspring.com
Subject: Re: Flying Time
Date: Mar 17, 2001
----- Original Message ----- From: "JIMMY HANKINSON" <jhankin(at)planters.net> Sent: Thursday, March 15, 2001 8:20 AM Subject: Kolb-List: Flying Time > > Help!!! > > Don't seem that I am going to be able to use the two-seater of a friend > to get some flying time in before I venture up by myself. > > Is there anyone with a Mark III in my area that would be willing to give > me some flying time with them. > > My area is Savannah, Augusta, Stateboro, and Dublin Georgia area Jimmy, Brother has MKIII with 912S in Cartersville Ga. 4 hrs from you. He is about to aquire BFI status and would give you some MKIII time. Bill Woods ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Richard Swiderski" <swiderskir(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Electric Compass
Date: Mar 17, 2001
Kolbers (Except Big Lar who has enuf gadgets!) Here's an interesting electronic compass that is not a toy --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Bob Haan Bob, I found a Ritchie Electronic Compass. In the marine market, Ritchie has a reputation for quality and reliability. Major components are a display instrument mounted in the panel and a remote sensor and controller units that is about 5 by 5 by 5 inches and very very light weight. I put the sensor in the tail cone to avoid any interference. I have a 2.25 diameter instrument. Also a 3.25 instrument is available. After being calibrated, which is accomplished by grounding a pin and then rotating the plane 720 degrees, accuracy is + or - 1/2 degree. It cost only $147.00 and is available from West Marine. For a picture go to http://easystreet.com/~bhaan/ the compass is in the left upper corner of the panel. As you can see, it would be nice if the vertical compass card was white lettering on black. My wife says the blue goes well with the Artificial Horizon instrument. For awhile Ritchie said they would produce a model with white lettering on a black background. My current understanding is that they decided not to do this. Quite a few builders saw this on my web page and bought a unit. Some of them are flying now. I remember at least one report. Check the archive. While you are at this web site, check out the WigWag Solid State Controller. Bob >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" > > > >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "J. N. Cameron" <toucan@the-i.net> > > > >Dear Bob, > > > > Although you've mentioned using electronic compasses in airplanes in > >your writings, I have yet to find a suitable one for a panel or dash-top > >mount. Do you have info you could pass along? > > > >Jim Cameron, Lancair ES builder > > > I don't have any personal experience with the modern > electronic compasses . . . something I need to do one of > these days. There were some discussions on the Kitfox > list a few months back wherein some folks have tried > electronic compasses with mixed results. I'm sorry but > I don't recall the details of those conversations. > > > Bob . . . > -------------------------------------------------- > ( "Imagination is more important than knowledge. ) > ( It is a miracle that curiosity survives formal ) > ( education" Albert Einstein ) > -------------------------------------------------- > http://www.aeroelectric.com Bob Haan http://easystreet.com/~bhaan/ bhaan(at)easystreet.com Portland, OR RV6A 24461 Wiring the panel _- ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 17, 2001
From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: 912, 914 Service Bulletin
I do not think my > 912S is involved in this one (hopefully). > Take care, > > john h Hey Gang: Guess what? I opened my big mouth to soon. :-) All 912S's have single valve springs, in my parts book. Now all I got to sweat out is whether my s/n falls within those that are affected. Got my arthritic fingers crossed, both hands. Take care, john h ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 18, 2001
From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Rotax Service Bulletin 912/914
Greetings Gang: I was finally able to dig out the s/n's involved with the 912S valve keeper update: 4425.001 to 4426.604 My s/n falls right in the middle of all those 912S s/n's: 4425.708 Thought I had lucked out when I first found the numbers, then I realized the last number was 4426 not 4425. Horse manure!!! Take care and welcome to the "update club". We'll find out what our sentence is Monday morning............... :-( john h john h ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: Electric Compass
Date: Mar 17, 2001
Well, see that...............you're pickin' on pore ol' Lar again. PPPM. A couple of things on my mind.............the 1st of which is prob'ly about as welcome as a herd of yellow jackets at a chicken picnic..................looking at that site for the compass pics, there's a potted thingie that's probably the wigwag. ( Thought those were in washing machines ) Anyway, they have about umpteen wires captured under that single wire nut. My long, varied, and sometimes bitter experience with wire nuts leads me to say that's a no-no. 1st.........they've gotta be TIGHT ! ! ! Many folks just twist them on, and walk away. A few heating & cooling cycles later, they fall off. True Story ! ! ! I've seen it many times. 2nd.......if the threads in the wire nut don't contact the strands of an individual wire directly, you're depending on friction with the other wires to hold the non-contacted wire in place. Believe Me..............if you depend on it, and put it under tension, it WILL pull out. Or if the nuts' not really tight. Or if it cools & heats a few times. Or vibrates...........or..........or...........! ! ! For dependability, 3's the limit under a single wire nut. Many times, I've put 2 wires, and a jumper wire under a nut, then 2 more wires and the other end of the jumper under another. Joking and teasing are fun, but this is neither. I'm very serious. OverKill ?? Maybe, but I make my living with these things, and I'll promise you........you'll find zero ( 0 ) wire nuts in Vamoose..........pardon me........there are, I think, a couple to hold wires temporarily, before final assembly. 2nd.......I'm still having problems with sending to the List. No cheering, please. I attached a message last night, saying that I've added another page to my website, under Building Vamoose, called Odds & Ends. Shoulda called it Strobes, but it's too late now. It didn't come back to me, soooo...........I'll try again. 3rd............Mell from http://www.kitairplaneforum.com flew in today in a Glassair III, with a friend, to look over Vamoose, ( Thanks, John H ) and are gonna add it to their existing files. Don't know how my ratty ol' plane will fit in with the likes of S-51 Mustangs, and Turbine Legends, but it should be interesting. 4th..............I guess Matronics' help line doesn't function on weekends. Oh well. Disgusted ( again ) Lar. Larry Bourne Palm Springs, Ca. Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose" http://www.biglar.homestead.com/larry.html . ----- Original Message ----- From: "Richard Swiderski" <swiderskir(at)earthlink.net> Sent: Saturday, March 17, 2001 7:43 PM Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Electric Compass > > Kolbers (Except Big Lar who has enuf gadgets!) > > Here's an interesting electronic compass that is not a toy > > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Bob Haan > > Bob, ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Patty M" <pattym(at)lushen.com>
Subject: ultrastar prop
Date: Mar 18, 2001
I know there are a few guys with Ultrastars that lurk in the wings of this list so was wondering if anyone has used a different pitch prop than the standard 50/30 that came with the kit. I have been smashing through the air at 45 to 50 mph for many years and would like to try a little more speed if it is there and usable. Phil MacGregor Ultrastar-Cuyuna Need for speed HELP ________________________________________________________________________________
From: HShack(at)aol.com
Date: Mar 18, 2001
Subject: Re: Tennesee Prop
My friend's Firestar KXP's prop appears to be turning a little fast for the cruise he's getting; is a 66 X 34 the proper size? Shack FS I SC ________________________________________________________________________________
From: HShack(at)aol.com
Date: Mar 18, 2001
Subject: Re: Tennesee Prop
In a message dated 3/18/01 10:16:59 AM Eastern Standard Time, HShack(at)aol.com writes: > My friend's Firestar KXP's prop appears to be turning a little fast for the > cruise he's getting; is a 66 X 34 the proper size? > > Somebody slap me!! It's a R-503 Dual Carb. engine. Shack FS I SC ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 18, 2001
From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: ultrastar prop
I have been smashing through the air > at 45 to 50 mph for many years and would like to try a little more speed if > it is there and usable. > > Phil MacGregor > Ultrastar-Cuyuna Phil and Gang: I used the standard Culver 50X30 prop on my Ultrastar. 5,800 rpm produced about 65 mph with a top speed over 80 mph at 6,600 rpm. Of course the prop was in good shape, no big dings, etc. The Culver 50X30 would allow the Cuyuna II02 to bump the red line, 6,600 rpm, WOT, straight and level flight. What rpm are you flying to produce 45 - 50 mph? Will your Cuyuna turn 6,600 rpm WOT, straight and level? Take care, john h ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 18, 2001
From: slyck <slyck(at)frontiernet.net>
Subject: fabric patch
Group, having had my share of aircraft bumps and bruises through the years, thought I'd pass along a quicky method of fixing such things as wingtip patches and belly holes. After you have grafted on the fabric and brushed on the nitrate (or polywhatever) grip coat----brush on a wet coat of Dupont Velvaseal. Let it dry for 24 hrs. , it appears to be an air catalyzed formula. You use it straight from the can, lacquer thinner turns it into a big clot. On cars it will seal out any kind of prior coat. It comes in gray and a putrid red-orange. It is great to sand and is quite flexible. I have used it under Aerothane and was happy with how it covers lumps, seams, zits. --Any questions, will be happy to elaborate further. --BB ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 18, 2001
From: Michael Peer <quick503(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: fabric patch
Three quick questions on the Dupont Velvaseal. 1. How heavy is it? 2. How long has it been under the Aerothane without cracking? 3. Have you used it on the whole airplane or just spots? Thanks, Mike ===== This Information could save you both time and money! Please visit my website at http://www.jemcomputersolutions.com Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 18, 2001
From: Michael Peer <quick503(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Aileron travel
I'm curious about the amount of aileron travel on the MK III. If you have a MK III and a few minutes free time could you check for me? A Warp Drive Prop protractor works great. I would really appreciate it. Thanks, Mike ===== This Information could save you both time and money! Please visit my website at http://www.jemcomputersolutions.com Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 18, 2001
From: Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org>
Subject: Re: Aileron travel
Since mine is in the garage for it's annual and some mods, could not check out what it has, but can offer some insights: with the stock setup, mine had excellent control authority, and the ailerons felt heavy. I modified mine for less aileron travel by changing the spacing of the holes in the bellcrank at the rear of the fuselage, and it now has about 25% less travel than stock, still has excellent control authority, and light comfortable ailerons. Bottom line: is it agile, will it deal with crosswinds, and do you like it? (This is one of those areas where you can experiment intelligently and fine tune the airplane to where you love it.) Richard Pike MKIII N420P (420ldPoops) > > >I'm curious about the amount of aileron travel on the >MK III. If you have a MK III and a few minutes free >time could you check for me? A Warp Drive Prop >protractor works great. I would really appreciate it. >Thanks, Mike > >===== >This Information could save you both time and money! >Please visit my website at http://www.jemcomputersolutions.com > >Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Patty M" <pattym(at)lushen.com>
Subject: Re: ultrastar prop
Date: Mar 18, 2001
----- Original Message ----- From: "John Hauck" <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> Sent: Sunday, March 18, 2001 10:33 AM Subject: Re: Kolb-List: ultrastar prop > The Culver 50X30 would allow the Cuyuna II02 to bump the red > line, 6,600 rpm, WOT, straight and level flight. > > What rpm are you flying to produce 45 - 50 mph? Will your > Cuyuna turn 6,600 rpm WOT, straight and level? John, I get 45 mph at 4800 rpm and 50 mph at about 5500 rpm. I know this isn't up to spec rpm but have only used WOT on warmups and takeoffs. Maybe I am too cautious but this rpm range feels right when sitting up there taking in the sites. Engine will rev to about 6200 rpm during warmup on the ground. Thanks for the info Phil MacGregor Ultrastar-Cuyuna > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 18, 2001
From: slyck <slyck(at)frontiernet.net>
Subject: Velvaseal
I wouldn't recommend it for more than patchwork; 1. It's expensive 2. makes a mess of a spray gun 3. If it made your plane come out ugly, you'd come back and shoot me. ...but, I had no cosmetic problems with age (I'm speaking about the airplane here) on an old ceconite covered plane, and you don't have to mess with the silver coat and all the extra steps. --BB ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 18, 2001
From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: ultrastar prop
Engine will rev to about 6200 rpm during warmup on the ground. > Thanks for the info > > Phil MacGregor Phil and Gang: Sounds like you are right in the ball park. john h ________________________________________________________________________________
From: WGeorge737(at)aol.com
Date: Mar 18, 2001
Subject: Rotax 582 in-flight failure
Hi Kolbers, I must apologize for not sharing the story below sooner. The incident related below created a frame of mind that would have prevented good responses to the inevitable questions that would be posed by listers. The incident happened in late December and I now feel fairly comfortable discussing it. Background Airplane: Kolb Mk-3 with Rotax 582, "C" box, Powerfin prop, hot coated exhaust and Bing HAC carbs. Total time airframe and engine is 178 hours. On a previous post flight inspection, I noticed a small amount of two-stroke oil on the tail feathers. Closer inspection revealed that one of the small plastic tubes that lead from the oil pump to the inlet nipples had a crack in it. I ordered the tubes and new banjo fittings from Lockwood and had them install the clamps on one end. I was extremely gun shy about squeezing of the metal clamps and enlisted the help of an A&P to clamp the fittings to the engine side. Since there was no oil in the new tubes I elected to add about a 100-1 oil mix to the fuel tanks, which were about half full. Fuel bowls were empty. The idea was to be sure to have lubrication during start up until the tubes filled with oil. The engine was started and run for a few minutes and shut down. The tubes had oil in them but there were a few air bubbles. The engine was started again and the throttle cycled through moderate to low RPM for a minute or so and shut down. This time the tubes were full of oil. The flight Since all looked normal, I decided to take a short flight. An additional preflight was accomplished, the engine was started, and the airplane taxied to the runway. A run up and mag check was performed and all was normal. I had to hold in position on the runway for a longer than usual time for traffic. When cleared for takeoff all was normal. RPM was 6400 and EGTs were normal. Climb rate was normal for load and temperature. Reaching 2500 feet I was looking for traffic that had been pointed out by departure control and decided to level off. When I reduced power to 5800 RPM the engine immediately seized. I advised departure control that I would be landing in a field. There were lots of high-tension wires around as I was in the vicinity of a power plant. Found a field of grass and weeds that looked reasonable, though far from level. I set up the approach and as I descended through about 500 feet I became aware of the large rocks that had been uncovered by a field machine's tines. Diameter varied from a foot or so to two feet and there were lots of them. Got a nice touchdown and began to try to avoid rocks. Did pretty well and was almost stopped when I hit a couple of large ones. The left main gear strut was bent backwards completely and the left wingtip touched the ground. The right main was slight bent aft and the fabric was torn on the cockpit belly left side. Thanks to Homer Kolb's design I had nary a bump or scratch and the airplane had minimal damage. The engine was still seized and could not be turned. Post incident I towed my trailer to the landing site and, with the help of a couple of very strong folks, got it into the trailer and back home. The engine still could not be turned Inspection of the engine still on the airplane showed full, clean coolant, nearly full rotary valve oil, about 3/.4 full AV-2 two stroke oil and slightly less that half tanks of fuel. All hoses and tubes were attached and no physical damage could be seen. The engine was removed from the airplane and put it on a table in my workshop. The exhaust, carbs and plugs were pulled. There was a small amount of two-stroke oil in the inlets. The exhaust port revealed the PTO piston near the top of stroke. It is dull and has light score marks. The mag end piston top is at the bottom of the port and the ring is visible. The top of the piston is clean and free of carbon. Original hone marks are visible on cylinder wall. Spark plugs were pulled and looked normal with no evidence of overheating. Summary In over forty years of flying all types of airplanes this is the first engine failure I have experienced. My airplane and engine have been meticulously maintained. However, I do believe human intervention is a factor in two stroke engine failures. For that reason, I have focused on the replacement of the oil tubes as somehow being a critical element. Nonetheless, the inspection done to date does not support it. Perhaps the teardown by a pro will be revealing enough to determine the real cause of the failure Bottom line I will not fly a two-stroke powerplant again. I plan to sell the 582 with its upgraded accessories as is and install either the 912 or the Jabiru package on the Mk-3. I will be putting up a web page with photos of the engine including close-ups of significant areas. Inquiries regarding acquisition of the 582 should be sent via private email. Fly safe Bill ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Ulflyer(at)aol.com
Date: Mar 18, 2001
Subject: Re: Tennesee Prop
> My friend's Firestar KXP's prop appears to be turning a little fast for the > cruise he's getting; is a 66 X 34 the proper size? > > Somebody slap me!! It's a R-503 Dual Carb. engine. > > Shack > FS I SC I used to fly my FS II with R503 dual carb with a Tennessee 66x34 and it seemed about right. I turned 6400 rpm at WOT. Cruised at 5900 rpm and 62 - 65 mph on a coolish day. I now am using an IVO and picked up a few mph with it pitched at 6400 WOT. Charlie ulflyer(at)aol.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Denny Rowe" <rowedl(at)alltel.net>
Subject: Re: Tennesee Prop
Date: Mar 18, 2001
I run a 66-34 Ritz blade on my Sport Parasol, 503 SC Free- Air, it turns right around 6250rpm in flight full throttle. Level I get around 70-75mph on the Hall brother ASI. Denny Rowe Building Mk-3 EXTRA-CLASSIC :-) Sounds like a Dave Thomas hamburger. ----- Original Message ----- From: <HShack(at)aol.com> Sent: Sunday, March 18, 2001 10:20 AM Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Tennesee Prop > > In a message dated 3/18/01 10:16:59 AM Eastern Standard Time, HShack(at)aol.com > writes: > > > > My friend's Firestar KXP's prop appears to be turning a little fast for the > > cruise he's getting; is a 66 X 34 the proper size? > > > > > > Somebody slap me!! It's a R-503 Dual Carb. engine. > > Shack > FS I > SC > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 18, 2001
From: bob n <ronoy(at)shentel.net>
Subject: Aircraft Spruce site
Aircraft Spruce has a new, improved web site at: www.AircraftSpruce.com. Can order free big catalog there. bn ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 18, 2001
From: Skip Staub <skipnann(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: ultrastar prop
> I have been smashing through the air > > at 45 to 50 mph for many years and would like to try a little more speed if > > it is there and usable. > > > > Phil MacGregor > > Ultrastar-Cuyuna The standard Culver 50x30 prop with the armored leading edge pushed my UltraStar better than 60 mph. If not careful, I could over rev the engine so it certainly wasn't pitched to high. The armored leading edge also allowed me to cut lots of grass with no damage. One downside to the wooden Culver prop and that is that it won't eat muffler bolts without catastrophic damage. :-) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 18, 2001
From: Michael Peer <quick503(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Velvaseal
Naw, haven't shot anyone in quite awhile. Thanks for the info. Mike ===== This Information could save you both time and money! Please visit my website at http://www.jemcomputersolutions.com Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: cajwoods(at)mindspring.com
Subject: Re: Rotax Service Bulletin 912/914
Date: Mar 18, 2001
John, I have Service Bulletin SB-912-022 from Rotax site. It says S/N 4922.501 to 4922.636 on 912S are affected. Do I have the wrong bulletin? Bill Woods ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Hauck" <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> Sent: Sunday, March 18, 2001 1:31 AM Subject: Kolb-List: Rotax Service Bulletin 912/914 > > Greetings Gang: > > I was finally able to dig out the s/n's involved with the > 912S valve keeper update: > > 4425.001 to 4426.604 > > My s/n falls right in the middle of all those 912S s/n's: > > 4425.708 > > Thought I had lucked out when I first found the numbers, > then I realized the last number was 4426 not 4425. Horse > manure!!! > > Take care and welcome to the "update club". We'll find out > what our sentence is Monday morning............... :-( > > john h > > john h > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 18, 2001
From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Rotax Service Bulletin 912/914
> I have Service Bulletin SB-912-022 from Rotax site. It says S/N 4922.501 to > 4922.636 on 912S are affected. Do I have the wrong bulletin? > Bill Woods > > I was finally able to dig out the s/n's involved with the > > 912S valve keeper update: > > > > 4425.001 to 4426.604 > > > > My s/n falls right in the middle of all those 912S s/n's: > > > > 4425.708 >john h Bill and Gang: What you see below is the range of 912SUL sn's affected by the update. Looks like it begins with the first 912S and includes another 1,603 912SUL's. Rotax tries to confuse us by having two SB's, one for ul version and one for certified version of 912S. However, the 912SUL SB only includes the sn's. One must then open the SB for 912S certified engines to find out what, when, and where to have the problem resolved. SB 912-022 is for certified 912S. SB 912-022UL is for UL 912S. Based on when you bought your engine, also your Brother's 912S, plus John Russell, we all going to the Rotax shop and gonna get us some new valve spring retainers. I had planned to fly down to Ronnie Smith's as soon as I get Miss P'fer flying, to have the gear box torsional vibration dampners shimmed up as tight as possible. At Oshkosh last year, we got our heads together and came up with this procedure as a possible remedy for gear box chatter at start up. Keep your fingers crossed that this will work. Take care, john h ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 19, 2001
From: Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org>
Subject: Re: Rotax 582 in-flight failure
My sympathies for your problems, glad you weren't hurt. As far as two stroke failures, two strokes share one absolute characteristic with four strokes, rotaries, or anything else: there are no anomalies. Everything has a reason. I suspect that some damage occurred during the flight just prior to your discovery of the broken oil line, and it blossomed into full blown failure on the incident flight. I also suspect that there is no way to know for sure. Excellent informative post. Good luck with your new engine. Richard Pike MKIII N420P (420ldPoops) > >Hi Kolbers, > >I must apologize for not sharing the story below sooner. The incident related >below created a frame of mind that would have prevented good responses to the >inevitable questions that would be posed by listers. The incident happened in >late December and I now feel fairly comfortable discussing it. > >Background >Airplane: Kolb Mk-3 with Rotax 582, "C" box, Powerfin prop, hot coated >exhaust and Bing HAC carbs. Total time airframe and engine is 178 hours. > >On a previous post flight inspection, I noticed a small amount of two-stroke >oil on the tail feathers. Closer inspection revealed that one of the small >plastic tubes that lead from the oil pump to the inlet nipples had a crack in >it. I ordered the tubes and new banjo fittings from Lockwood and had them >install the clamps on one end. I was extremely gun shy about squeezing of the >metal clamps and enlisted the help of an A&P to clamp the fittings to the >engine side. > >Since there was no oil in the new tubes I elected to add about a 100-1 oil >mix to the fuel tanks, which were about half full. Fuel bowls were empty. The >idea was to be sure to have lubrication during start up until the tubes >filled with oil. > >The engine was started and run for a few minutes and shut down. The tubes had >oil in them but there were a few air bubbles. The engine was started again >and the throttle cycled through moderate to low RPM for a minute or so and >shut down. This time the tubes were full of oil. > >The flight >Since all looked normal, I decided to take a short flight. An additional >preflight was accomplished, the engine was started, and the airplane taxied >to the runway. A run up and mag check was performed and all was normal. I had >to hold in position on the runway for a longer than usual time for traffic. >When cleared for takeoff all was normal. RPM was 6400 and EGTs were normal. >Climb rate was normal for load and temperature. Reaching 2500 feet I was >looking for traffic that had been pointed out by departure control and >decided to level off. When I reduced power to 5800 RPM the engine immediately >seized. > >I advised departure control that I would be landing in a field. There were >lots of high-tension wires around as I was in the vicinity of a power plant. >Found a field of grass and weeds that looked reasonable, though far from >level. I set up the approach and as I descended through about 500 feet I >became aware of the large rocks that had been uncovered by a field machine's >tines. Diameter varied from a foot or so to two feet and there were lots of >them. > >Got a nice touchdown and began to try to avoid rocks. Did pretty well and was >almost stopped when I hit a couple of large ones. The left main gear strut >was bent backwards completely and the left wingtip touched the ground. The >right main was slight bent aft and the fabric was torn on the cockpit belly >left side. Thanks to Homer Kolb's design I had nary a bump or scratch and the >airplane had minimal damage. The engine was still seized and could not be >turned. > >Post incident >I towed my trailer to the landing site and, with the help of a couple of very >strong folks, got it into the trailer and back home. The engine still could >not be turned Inspection of the engine still on the airplane showed full, >clean coolant, nearly full rotary valve oil, about 3/.4 full AV-2 two stroke >oil and slightly less that half tanks of fuel. All hoses and tubes were >attached and no physical damage could be seen. > >The engine was removed from the airplane and put it on a table in my >workshop. The exhaust, carbs and plugs were pulled. There was a small amount >of two-stroke oil in the inlets. The exhaust port revealed the PTO piston >near the top of stroke. It is dull and has light score marks. The mag end >piston top is at the bottom of the port and the ring is visible. The top of >the piston is clean and free of carbon. Original hone marks are visible on >cylinder wall. Spark plugs were pulled and looked normal with no evidence of >overheating. > >Summary >In over forty years of flying all types of airplanes this is the first engine >failure I have experienced. My airplane and engine have been meticulously >maintained. However, I do believe human intervention is a factor in two >stroke engine failures. For that reason, I have focused on the replacement of >the oil tubes as somehow being a critical element. Nonetheless, the >inspection done to date does not support it. Perhaps the teardown by a pro >will be revealing enough to determine the real cause of the failure > >Bottom line >I will not fly a two-stroke powerplant again. I plan to sell the 582 with its >upgraded accessories as is and install either the 912 or the Jabiru package >on the Mk-3. I will be putting up a web page with photos of the engine >including close-ups of significant areas. > >Inquiries regarding acquisition of the 582 should be sent via private email. > >Fly safe > >Bill > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 18, 2001
From: b young <byoung(at)brigham.net>
Subject: 912 service bulletin
i downloaded the page and for the 912 s it says from s/n 4922501 to s/n 4922636 if it is a 912 uls the serial number from s/n 4425001 to s/n 4426604 my 912 is right in the middle of the s/n ranges. for the 912 ul from s/n 4401880 to s/n 4404123 it list the parts needed and a set of tools needed. could we buy 1 set of tools and pass them around. boyd ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: Lar's Pooter
Date: Mar 18, 2001
Naw, it was more than 1 sentence; I'd a choked. In all serious-ness, are you happier with 98 ?? If so, why ?? Best answer off List. Come on guys.............what to do about my new double receiving ?? Not that I don't like hearing from you-all, but Double ?? Tired out Lar. Larry Bourne Palm Springs, Ca. Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose" http://www.biglar.homestead.com/larry.html . ----- Original Message ----- From: "Richard Pike" <richard(at)BCChapel.org> Sent: Sunday, March 18, 2001 8:54 PM Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Lar's Pooter > > Windows ME? Less cranky? Smooth things out? Lar? All in the same sentence? > What's wrong with this picture? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: Sunday's Flight
Date: Mar 18, 2001
You sure have a lot of fun with those planes. Keep it up, and the great pictures, too. You'd be right at home to the north and east of Palm Springs, right down to the huge open pit mine. Ours is at Iron Mountain, and goes for miles. Interesting sight-seeing. Thanks. Lar. Larry Bourne Palm Springs, Ca. Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose" http://www.biglar.homestead.com/larry.html . ----- Original Message ----- From: <WillUribe(at)aol.com> Sent: Sunday, March 18, 2001 9:13 PM Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Sunday's Flight > > Greetings, > Dave and I were going to Albuquerque for a fly in this weekend but it was > canceled do to high winds. > So instead we flew for 5:31 hours and 335 miles to Silver City, NM. > Here are some of the pictures I took.> ________________________________________________________________________________
From: WGeorge737(at)aol.com
Date: Mar 19, 2001
Subject: Not getting mesages
HI Gang, If there were any messages on-list regarding my 582 seizure post that should have elicited some response please note that I didn't get them. I subscribe in the "digest" mode. This morning it showed 31 messages, but when I opened it there was only one. The other thirty are in etherland somewhere. Maybe they'll show up later. Bill G ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 19, 2001
From: bob n <ronoy(at)shentel.net>
Subject: Mir reentry
punch up www.mirreentry.com for a whole buncha info on the dying swan dive of ol' Mir. bn ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 19, 2001
Subject: Re: 912 service bulletin
From: Ray L Baker <rbaker2(at)juno.com>
Boyd, Sounds like a good idea to me. I have not been able to find the page that gives the parts and tools needed. Ray > > i downloaded the page and for the 912 s it says from s/n > 4922501 to s/n 4922636 > > if it is a 912 uls the serial number from s/n 4425001 to > > s/n 4426604 > > my 912 is right in the middle of the s/n ranges. for > the 912 ul from s/n 4401880 to s/n 4404123 > > it list the parts needed and a set of tools needed. could > > we buy 1 set of tools and pass them around. > > boyd > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Kottke, Dwight" <dkottke(at)scherping.carlisle.com>
Subject: Rotax 582 in-flight failure
Date: Mar 19, 2001
Bill, I may have a possible explanation for your seizure. I was a Yamaha snowmobile mechanic for many years and have seen this type of situation. In the early days people were afraid that their oil injection system was not working so they would also and there own premix. The extra oil would load up on the crank rod bearing, not allowing it to turn and take it our in a matter of seconds. Too much oil in a two stroke can be as bad as not enough. Removing the cylinders would tell the story. If the pistons and cylinders are fine and the crank is still stuck, you may have your answer. -----Original Message----- From: WGeorge737(at)aol.com [mailto:WGeorge737(at)aol.com] Sent: Sunday, March 18, 2001 3:49 PM Subject: Kolb-List: Rotax 582 in-flight failure Hi Kolbers, I must apologize for not sharing the story below sooner. The incident related below created a frame of mind that would have prevented good responses to the inevitable questions that would be posed by listers. The incident happened in late December and I now feel fairly comfortable discussing it. Background Airplane: Kolb Mk-3 with Rotax 582, "C" box, Powerfin prop, hot coated exhaust and Bing HAC carbs. Total time airframe and engine is 178 hours. On a previous post flight inspection, I noticed a small amount of two-stroke oil on the tail feathers. Closer inspection revealed that one of the small plastic tubes that lead from the oil pump to the inlet nipples had a crack in it. I ordered the tubes and new banjo fittings from Lockwood and had them install the clamps on one end. I was extremely gun shy about squeezing of the metal clamps and enlisted the help of an A&P to clamp the fittings to the engine side. Since there was no oil in the new tubes I elected to add about a 100-1 oil mix to the fuel tanks, which were about half full. Fuel bowls were empty. The idea was to be sure to have lubrication during start up until the tubes filled with oil. The engine was started and run for a few minutes and shut down. The tubes had oil in them but there were a few air bubbles. The engine was started again and the throttle cycled through moderate to low RPM for a minute or so and shut down. This time the tubes were full of oil. The flight Since all looked normal, I decided to take a short flight. An additional preflight was accomplished, the engine was started, and the airplane taxied to the runway. A run up and mag check was performed and all was normal. I had to hold in position on the runway for a longer than usual time for traffic. When cleared for takeoff all was normal. RPM was 6400 and EGTs were normal. Climb rate was normal for load and temperature. Reaching 2500 feet I was looking for traffic that had been pointed out by departure control and decided to level off. When I reduced power to 5800 RPM the engine immediately seized. I advised departure control that I would be landing in a field. There were lots of high-tension wires around as I was in the vicinity of a power plant. Found a field of grass and weeds that looked reasonable, though far from level. I set up the approach and as I descended through about 500 feet I became aware of the large rocks that had been uncovered by a field machine's tines. Diameter varied from a foot or so to two feet and there were lots of them. Got a nice touchdown and began to try to avoid rocks. Did pretty well and was almost stopped when I hit a couple of large ones. The left main gear strut was bent backwards completely and the left wingtip touched the ground. The right main was slight bent aft and the fabric was torn on the cockpit belly left side. Thanks to Homer Kolb's design I had nary a bump or scratch and the airplane had minimal damage. The engine was still seized and could not be turned. Post incident I towed my trailer to the landing site and, with the help of a couple of very strong folks, got it into the trailer and back home. The engine still could not be turned Inspection of the engine still on the airplane showed full, clean coolant, nearly full rotary valve oil, about 3/.4 full AV-2 two stroke oil and slightly less that half tanks of fuel. All hoses and tubes were attached and no physical damage could be seen. The engine was removed from the airplane and put it on a table in my workshop. The exhaust, carbs and plugs were pulled. There was a small amount of two-stroke oil in the inlets. The exhaust port revealed the PTO piston near the top of stroke. It is dull and has light score marks. The mag end piston top is at the bottom of the port and the ring is visible. The top of the piston is clean and free of carbon. Original hone marks are visible on cylinder wall. Spark plugs were pulled and looked normal with no evidence of overheating. Summary In over forty years of flying all types of airplanes this is the first engine failure I have experienced. My airplane and engine have been meticulously maintained. However, I do believe human intervention is a factor in two stroke engine failures. For that reason, I have focused on the replacement of the oil tubes as somehow being a critical element. Nonetheless, the inspection done to date does not support it. Perhaps the teardown by a pro will be revealing enough to determine the real cause of the failure Bottom line I will not fly a two-stroke powerplant again. I plan to sell the 582 with its upgraded accessories as is and install either the 912 or the Jabiru package on the Mk-3. I will be putting up a web page with photos of the engine including close-ups of significant areas. Inquiries regarding acquisition of the 582 should be sent via private email. Fly safe Bill ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 18, 2000
From: Ole Noetnes <onoetnes(at)online.no>
Subject: Re: Rotax 582 in-flight failure
Kottke, Dwight wrote: > > > Bill, I may have a possible explanation for your seizure. I was a Yamaha > snowmobile mechanic for many years and have seen this type of situation. In > the early days people were afraid that their oil injection system was not > working so they would also and there own premix. The extra oil would load up > on the crank rod bearing, not allowing it to turn and take it our in a > matter of seconds. Too much oil in a two stroke can be as bad as not enough. > Removing the cylinders would tell the story. If the pistons and cylinders > are fine and the crank is still stuck, you may have your answer. > my thought entirely, dwight. i've seen this happen to other people who didn't trust the oil injection and mixed in another percent for good measure. close examination showed that bearings had marks of exessive heat build up, as the lube didn't carry away the heat rapidly enough. ole twinstar mk2 in norway ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 19, 2001
From: bob n <ronoy(at)shentel.net>
Subject: Re: Not getting mesages
Biglar, I'd gladly trade you a flock of the msgs I get--including the ones I sent! bn ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 19, 2001
From: Eugene H Zimmerman <tehz(at)redrose.net>
Subject: A few flying picts 1980 to 2001
Hi listers, I'm a long time lurker member. I've tried recently to do a web page with a little of my UL experiences. My experience with UL flying goes back more than 20 yr. I've probably reached geezer status by now and I'd rather be flying than learning html so my web stuff is rather primitive. Some of the picts are very poor quality but have historical value for me. I won't be surprised if some people react to some of it too. Your welcome to check it out, Eugene Zimmerman http://users.supernet.com/tehz/My%20Fun.html ________________________________________________________________________________
From: SGreenpg(at)aol.com
Date: Mar 19, 2001
Subject: N58SG Pics.
Kolbers, There are some pictures of my recently completed Mark III at the following address. http://www.flyultralites.com They are on the last page of pictures. There will probably be a fly-in at the field that this website represents, so book mark it and watch for an announcement. Maybe we can get more Kolbs there than Challengers this year. I am planning to fly to Sun-N-Fun this year and hope to meet some of you. Steven Green Etowah TN N58SG MK III 30 hrs. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Denny Rowe" <rowedl(at)alltel.net>
Subject: Re: N58SG Pics.
Date: Mar 19, 2001
Steve, If your Mk-3 is the white, red and yellow one, all I can say is hubba hubba hubba! Nice work! Hope mine comes close to that. What paint did you use? Denny ----- Original Message ----- From: <SGreenpg(at)aol.com> Sent: Monday, March 19, 2001 6:15 PM Subject: Kolb-List: N58SG Pics. > > Kolbers, > > There are some pictures of my recently completed Mark III at the following > address. http://www.flyultralites.com > They are on the last page of pictures. > There will probably be a fly-in at the field that this website represents, so > book mark it and watch for an announcement. Maybe we can get more Kolbs > there than Challengers this year. > > I am planning to fly to Sun-N-Fun this year and hope to meet some of you. > > Steven Green > Etowah TN > N58SG > MK III 30 hrs. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 19, 2001
From: Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org>
Subject: Re: A few flying picts 1980 to 2001
Excellent page, very well done, brought back old memories. Especially since I used to have an Easy Riser also. (How did we ever survive?) Enjoyed the testimony, thank you. Richard Pike MKIII N420P (420ldPoops) > >Hi listers, > >I'm a long time lurker member. I've tried recently to do a web page with >a little of my UL experiences. My experience with UL flying goes back >more than 20 yr. I've probably reached geezer status by now and I'd >rather be flying than learning html so my web stuff is rather primitive. >Some of the picts are very poor quality but have historical value for >me. I won't be surprised if some people react to some of it too. > >Your welcome to check it out, >Eugene Zimmerman > >http://users.supernet.com/tehz/My%20Fun.html > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Richard Swiderski" <swiderskir(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: A few flying picts 1980 to 2001
Date: Mar 19, 2001
Eugene, You did great on your website! I still have mine on my "to do" list. Its always good to see another aviator recognize the majesty of God in the gift of flight. Your picture from 10,000ft brought back a wonderful memory of taking my Cuyuna powered UltraStar to 11,600. I did it on a whim one winter day when I was wearing a snow mobile suit I was getting about 50 fpm climb & the EGT's were down to 750 degrees. I was shivering real bad (This FL boy is a whimp for cold) so I idled back & hit the kill switch. It was one of my most memorable dead sticks. It lasted just shy of or just over 30 minutes of pure beautiful silence with a view of the Atlantic & Gulf. ...Richard Swiderski ----- Original Message ----- From: "Eugene H Zimmerman" <tehz(at)redrose.net> Sent: Monday, March 19, 2001 5:21 PM Subject: Kolb-List: A few flying picts 1980 to 2001 > > Hi listers, > > I'm a long time lurker member. I've tried recently to do a web page with > a little of my UL experiences. My experience with UL flying goes back > more than 20 yr. I've probably reached geezer status by now and I'd > rather be flying than learning html so my web stuff is rather primitive. > Some of the picts are very poor quality but have historical value for > me. I won't be surprised if some people react to some of it too. > > Your welcome to check it out, > Eugene Zimmerman > > http://users.supernet.com/tehz/My%20Fun.html > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: Sunday
Date: Mar 19, 2001
What made the difference, Will ?? Not your usual standard. Different camera ?? Lar. Larry Bourne Palm Springs, Ca. Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose" http://www.biglar.homestead.com/larry.html . ----- Original Message ----- From: <WillUribe(at)aol.com> Sent: Monday, March 19, 2001 10:43 PM Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Sunday > > In a message dated 3/19/01 7:33:32 PM Eastern Standard Time, writes: > > >> Will you surprized me. First time I remember a set of pics and not one > > air > > >to air. Really good pics tho. Thanks > > Bob > I did take some air to air pictures yesterday. > We landed at the Las Cruces breakfast/fly-in and met a hurricane driver from > near Silver City, he invited us to his home/landing strip. We had to fly > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 20, 2001
From: JIMMY HANKINSON <jhankin(at)planters.net>
Subject: MESSAGES
Received 0 messages yesterday. Received 2 of 17 messages today. What's wrong!!!!!!! Jimmy Firefly #35 Southeast Georgia ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Hans van Alphen" <HVA(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List Digest: 17 Msgs - 03/19/01
Date: Mar 20, 2001
Received just one message out of 17 this morning, something is wrong!!!! -----Original Message----- From: Kolb-List Digest Server <kolb-list-digest(at)matronics.com> Date: Tuesday, March 20, 2001 4:00 AM Subject: Kolb-List Digest: 17 Msgs - 03/19/01 >* > Kolb-List Digest Archive > --- > Total Messages Posted Mon 03/19/01: 17 > > >___________________________________________________________________________ _____ >From: dixieshack(at)webtv.net (orie shackelford) >Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Kolb-List Digest--disappeared > > >Hey guys, anyone else lose their list Monday A.M.? Subject line came in >identifying 31 messages but the only one listed was Big Lar's message ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 20, 2001
From: Eugene H Zimmerman <tehz(at)redrose.net>
Subject: Thanks
Thanks to all for your kind comments about the web page. http://users.supernet.com/tehz/My%20Fun.html | _____|_____ *============================R============================* \ / \ / (/---\) \___/ / \ () () Eugene Zimmerman ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 21, 2001
From: slyck <slyck(at)frontiernet.net>
Subject: Moller International
Regarding the Solotrek (thrill ride) --Check out this decades-old scam The Skycar, perpetually in developement ..loooking for some new investors. http://www.moller.com/ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dave Leaf" <705460(at)ican.net>
Subject: Re: firestar cover
Date: Mar 21, 2001
Anybody know where to buy an outdoor cover for a Firestar ?, I may have to store my airplane outside and I'd like to keep it from filling up with water ! , Even if I could buy the right kind of fabric perhaps I could make one myself. Thanks, Dave Leaf ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 21, 2001
Subject: Re: firestar cover
From: ul15rhb(at)juno.com
Dave, Check with a marina and get a boat cover. > > Anybody know where to buy an outdoor cover for a Firestar ?, I may > have to > store my airplane outside and I'd like to keep it from filling up > with water > ! , Even if I could buy the right kind of fabric perhaps I could > make one > myself. > > Thanks, > > > Dave Leaf > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: firestar cover
Date: Mar 21, 2001
A few months ago, I contacted the people who make covers for certified airplanes, and they told me the material they use is called "Sunbrella." Said any upholstery shop should be able to order it. Lar. Larry Bourne Palm Springs, Ca. Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose" http://www.biglar.homestead.com/larry.html . ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dave Leaf" <705460(at)ican.net> Sent: Wednesday, March 21, 2001 3:58 PM Subject: Re: Kolb-List: firestar cover > > Anybody know where to buy an outdoor cover for a Firestar ?, I may have to > store my airplane outside and I'd like to keep it from filling up with water > ! , Even if I could buy the right kind of fabric perhaps I could make one > myself. > > Thanks, > > > Dave Leaf > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Timandjan(at)aol.com
Date: Mar 22, 2001
Subject: Re: firestar cover
I had a custom cover made for my Firestar2, it is made from the same fabric that boat cover are made from. It is custom to fit over the fuselage area and I also had a cover that goes around and over the engine and BRS chute. The whole cover is complete and really nice, but it was pricy. If I remember correctly, I was near $500.00. But the uplhostery man that did it, said that the meterial itself is very expensive. He made a complete set of patterns that I have, like he does for all his work. I remember watching him, it took a long time just to mark and make the patterns. He also does custom airplane interiors and did my seat upholstery, real awsom work. The covers are great for trailering and storing. Might be overkill, but when I build the plane I went all out. I don't get to fly much, so I share a hangar and keep my plane folded in the back of a hangar and keep it covered. Tim ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 22, 2001
From: AV8REXP(at)aol.com
Subject: St. Elmo Al Fly-In
EAA 1209 St Elmo Alabama (2R5) is hosting its 4th annual spring fly inn Saturday March 31st. Everyone is welcome! Bring a lawn chair. You are welcome to camp on the field Friday and Saturday nights if you want to. Door prizes will be given away! 10 Gallons of gas will be given to who ever flies the farthest distance to attend. This is our fourth fly-in and they just seem to keep getting better! Ask John Hauck...he fly Ms Pfer in one year! We fly for fun at 1209. Everyone and all aircraft are welcome! Come and see us anytime...especially March 31st! ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: Solotrek ?????
Date: Mar 22, 2001
I have GOT to start looking before answering. Tim, I thought that was direct to me. List-ers, I'm sorry. No excuse..........just didn't look. Lar. Larry Bourne Palm Springs, Ca. Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose" http://www.biglar.homestead.com/larry.html . ----- Original Message ----- From: "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)msn.com> Sent: Thursday, March 22, 2001 7:11 AM Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Solotrek ????? > > Asshole. Whatever happened to Brooklyn Bridge ?? You're right near there,> ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Dale Seitzer <dale(at)gmada.com>
Subject: 447 engine problem
Date: Mar 22, 2001
Last Saturday Bettie and I went flying on lake Minnetonka--beautiful day--calm winds--bright clear sky and temps in the upper 30's. Ralph Burlingame, Gary Voight and I were on the lake and looking forward to a long day of flight. Bettie and I set up the plane --did a thorough preflight and I went up for a short 10 minute flight, landed and Bettie went out for 30 minutes and made several landings and stopped without incident. When I got ready for my turn, the engine turned over and then locked up. We could not even move the prop more than a couple of inches. We removed the engine and gearbox and brought it to a tech near here thinking the worst--a blown engine maybe--The engine has 400 hours and never been opened The tech said the pistons are clean, rings free and the bearings seem ok--he thought it was in the flywheel/ignition and when he took it apart he found a flywheel bolt had come out, wore down the flywheel and then was lodged in and prevented the engine from turning. He confirmed the piston, rings and crankshaft are ok but the flywheel must be replaced. He STRONGLY encouraged a complete overhaul along with a new or used flywheel. The price for that would be almost the price of a new engine without gearbox. I did not remove the flywheel when I tuned it up last but I did not check those bolts either. Lukily there was no in flight problem but I will be better at checking every bolt and nut. I have located a used 447 with 80 hours from a local UL pilot and will purchase it. We will be back in the air soon. Dale Seitzer Original Firestar ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 22, 2001
From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: St. Elmo Al Fly-In
> EAA 1209 St Elmo Alabama (2R5) is hosting its 4th annual spring fly inn Saturday March 31st. Everyone is welcome! Bring a lawn chair. You are welcome to camp on the field Friday and Saturday nights if you want to. Morning Gang: This is a good flyin. I attended two years ago. Would have attended last year, but was installing 912S and updating the MK III. Unfortunately, will not be able to make it this year because of repairs. Wish I could though. Maybe next year. Take care, john h ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)msn.com>
Subject: Picture
Date: Mar 22, 2001
Here's partial atonement for my earlier boo-boo. I was just reading the latest issue of Water Flying, and a story about Lake Amphibians. A picture in the article made me think of John Hauck, so I scanned and published it, and you can see it at: http://www.flyingpics.homestead.com/files/Amphibian.jpg . John, can you tell us where this pic was taken. I think you have.............fond...........memories of it ?? ?? ?? Unfortunately, the original in the magazine is only about 2" x 4", and not too clear, so it didn't scan too well. Lar. Larry Bourne Palm Springs, Ca. Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose" http://www.biglar.homestead.com/larry.html . ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 22, 2001
From: Woody <duesouth(at)govital.net>
Subject: Re: Solotrek ?????
> >.. i can't remember the name of it - "Dreamwings", yeh that's >it! always looking for another deposit, always looking for another >"investor". i don't trust any company that does business that way. they're >always underfunded, always a day late and a dollar short. Whenever you see an ad for a company do not buy it by the artists concept or a computer generated image of it flying. Wait till it has flown before you invest any money. I did buy an aeroplane once back in 1980 and the ad only had a line drawing of what I wanted. Still not trusting sending my money to someone I don't know through the mail I elected to go down to Pheonixville Pa. and pick it up myself. Turns out it was a reputable company after all. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 22, 2001
From: David Hempy <dhempy(at)dlmail.ket.org>
Subject: Re: firestar cover
> >Anybody know where to buy an outdoor cover for a Firestar ?, I may have to >store my airplane outside and I'd like to keep it from filling up with water >! , Even if I could buy the right kind of fabric perhaps I could make one >myself. Just last week I got Roger Mann's hangar plans. It involves erecting 1.25" tubing (like that used in chain link fence top rails) into arches. These arches are then covered with a silver tarp. Estimated cost to build: $500. Semi-portable...more like relocatable actually. You can read about the plans here: http://members.aol.com/~ragwingman/ragwing-aircraft/raghanger.html They are $15 and worth it. Not the most high-tech plans I've seen, but then again neither is the hangar. I hope I have the need to build one someday. -dave -- David Hempy Internet Database Administrator Kentucky Educational Television - Distance Learning Division -- (859)258-7164 -- (800)333-9764 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Ksbroste(at)aol.com
Date: Mar 22, 2001
Subject: Firestar II Fuel Tanks
What is the most efficient positioning of the fuel tanks (2) in terms of refueling and positioning of the vent and supply lines? Thanks. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: N51SK(at)aol.com
Date: Mar 22, 2001
Subject: Re: Kolb-List Digest: difficulty with digest list
Dear list, I sent a request looking for parts for brakes for my Mk2 and then was unable to retrieve any responses I might have gotten from you guys because of trouble with my ISP. Let me try again. I have an 88 model Mk2 with disc brakes operated mechanically by a single bicycle lever. They were stock parts(although optional) for Kolbs at the time I purchased the kit. Because of my own faulty adjustment, I ate through the brake pads and then proceeded to chew up the discs with the rivits in the pads. What I need to get my brakes back online is new pads and discs. Does anybody have any idea where I might find these parts? Steve Kroll ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Richard Swiderski" <swiderskir(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Rotax 912/912S Specs
Date: Mar 22, 2001
Listers, Anyone out there have the torque values (with rpm) for the 912 and/or the 912S? I've seen the horsepower ratings but not the torque ratings. Thanks for your trouble. ...Richard Swiderski ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mike Lovett" <lovett(at)aerotwin.com>
Subject: Rotax 912/912S Specs
Date: Mar 22, 2001
Dont know if this will help, but the following relationship is always true: Torque(ft-lb) = (SHP x 5252)/RPM ------------------------- > Listers, > > Anyone out there have the torque values (with rpm) for the 912 > and/or the 912S? I've seen the horsepower ratings but not the torque > ratings. Thanks for your trouble. ...Richard Swiderski ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 22, 2001
From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Rotax 912/912S Specs
Anyone out there have the torque values (with rpm) for the 912 > and/or the 912S? ...Richard Swiderski Richard: This url will get you to the 4 strokes, then click on the one you want: http://www.kodiakbs.com/4intro.htm 912 81 hp @ 5800 (5 minutes) 79 hp @ 5500 75.9 ft lb tor @ 4800 912S 100 hp @ 5800 (5 minutes) 95 hp @ 5500 94 ft lb tor @ 5100 I like it. I can cruise at 5200 fully loaded for the Alaska flight and get 85 mph with 25 gal fuel on board. Aprx 80 at 5000. Puts me right in the best torque bracket. NOTE**** The fuselage just went in the trailer and the wings are in the mole hole. Now I got to figure out how to reconfigure so I can work in there. I don't remember the shop being that crowded before. At least I can start on the wings now. Take care, john h ________________________________________________________________________________
From: KHe1144783(at)aol.com
Date: Mar 22, 2001
Subject: Re: Gap Seal Tape
Where can I get the 3M 845 Gap Seal Tape in 1 /12 and 3 inch width ? All I can find at the Super Office stores is 2 inch. Area 51 ? Kris ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Bklebon4(at)cs.com
Date: Mar 23, 2001
Subject: Re: Firestar II Fuel Tanks
I would place them with the filler openings facing each other (towards the middle). If not, the front tank may hit the rear seat passenger in the back. I also opted to drill holes in the top of the tanks and run the fuel lines in there. There is something about drilling holes in the bottom of the fuel tanks that I found disconcerting. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Gdledbetter(at)aol.com
Date: Mar 23, 2001
Subject: Re: Gap Seal Tape
________________________________________________________________________________
From: Gdledbetter(at)aol.com
Date: Mar 23, 2001
Subject: Re: Gap Seal Tape
Check out the following web site for the gap seal tape. Gene Ledbetter Cincinnati, OH Firefly 00-2-00018, both canopies, big wheels and brakes, Ivo 2 blade http://www.db-secure.com/zz230/21/products.asp?param=0&ig_id=2531 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Dale Seitzer <dale(at)gmada.com>
Subject: Free Air 447 on a Kolb Firestar
Date: Mar 23, 2001
I have a line on a newer 447 but it is a free air engine--anybody ever seen a Kolb Firestar with a free air engine? My old engine is a points ignition and the free air one is CDI--I believe I can make the switch over but I am curious about the lighter engine and a little more power vs fan cooled. Dale Seitzer Original Firestar St. PAul ________________________________________________________________________________
From: KHe1144783(at)aol.com
Date: Mar 23, 2001
Subject: Re: Gap Seal Tape
In a message dated 3/23/01 6:12:37 AM Pacific Standard Time, rbaker2(at)juno.com writes: << got mine at Florida Office Supply in Gainesville, FL. They were here before Office Depot and Office Max. They had to order the 3" . It only took a couple of days. Office Depot offered to order it for me also. >> Thanks, I'll order it, thought I was just in the wrong store. Kris ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Kottke, Dwight" <dkottke(at)scherping.carlisle.com>
Subject: Free Air 447 on a Kolb Firestar
Date: Mar 23, 2001
Dale, I asked this same question earlier and was told the free air motor should only be used in a tractor configuration. -----Original Message----- From: Dale Seitzer [mailto:dale(at)gmada.com] Sent: Friday, March 23, 2001 10:52 AM Subject: Kolb-List: Free Air 447 on a Kolb Firestar I have a line on a newer 447 but it is a free air engine--anybody ever seen a Kolb Firestar with a free air engine? My old engine is a points ignition and the free air one is CDI--I believe I can make the switch over but I am curious about the lighter engine and a little more power vs fan cooled. Dale Seitzer Original Firestar St. PAul ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Denny Rowe" <rowedl(at)alltel.net>
Subject: Re: Free Air 447 on a Kolb Firestar
Date: Mar 23, 2001
Dale, I manufacture and sale Free-Air scoops for air cooled Rotax engines, the free-air setup should only be used in the tractor configuration. If you are keeping your old engine, just use the parts from it to convert your new engine to fan cooled. Denny ----- Original Message ----- From: Dale Seitzer <dale(at)gmada.com> Sent: Friday, March 23, 2001 11:51 AM Subject: Kolb-List: Free Air 447 on a Kolb Firestar > > I have a line on a newer 447 but it is a free air engine--anybody ever seen > a Kolb Firestar with a free air engine? My old engine is a points > ignition and the free air one is CDI--I believe I can make the switch over > but I am curious about the lighter engine and a little more power vs fan > cooled. > > Dale Seitzer > Original Firestar > St. PAul > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 23, 2001
From: "Gary r. voigt" <johndeereantique(at)uswest.net>
Subject: reccommend pilot log book
Can anyone recommend a good pilot log book... I,am not happy with the one i received from cps... too much useless information. and don't want to purchase 3 different log books for pilot, engine maint. and air frame...would like one book that would contain extra space for these logs. what are the rest of you using. p.s. winter flying has been good for the latter part of winter on lk. minnetonka!!!!! thanks, Gary r. voigt ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 23, 2001
From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: reccommend pilot log book
don't want to purchase 3 different log books for pilot, > engine maint. and air frame...would like one book that would > contain extra space for these logs. what are the rest of you > using. > Gary r. voigt Gary and Gang: I use three, eng, airframe, and me da pilot. When I was flying the Firestar and Ultrastar I used a version of an UL logbook that was real good. I think I got those free from EAA, but that was years ago. If you get to Sun and Fun or Oshkosh, you can scout around and maybe find something you like. If you go with three, a half gal zip lock bag or maybe it is a gal zip lock bag makes an excellent place to stow all your log books and paper work for yourself and you airplane. Had to go look. I am now using a Hefty One Zip Storage Slider Bag with the "easy close slider", 1 gal size. :-) Take care, john h ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Roger M. Derby" <derbyrm(at)seidata.com>
Subject: Re: reccommend pilot log book
Date: Mar 23, 2001
Having your log books at home has advantages in certain circumstances. It also reduces weight. My flight log has moved onto my computer in the form of a database which allows quick reports on all kinds of different questions that insurance companies ask; e.g. tail-dragger time, landings in the last 90 days, hours flown in the last year, etc. Roger http://www.seidata.com/~derbyrm derbyrm(at)seidata.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Hauck" <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> Sent: Friday, March 23, 2001 5:00 PM Subject: Re: Kolb-List: reccommend pilot log book > > don't want to purchase 3 different log books for pilot, > > engine maint. and air frame...would like one book that would > > contain extra space for these logs. what are the rest of you > > using. > > > Gary r. voigt > > Gary and Gang: > > I use three, eng, airframe, and me da pilot. > > When I was flying the Firestar and Ultrastar I used a > version of an UL logbook that was real good. I think I got > those free from EAA, but that was years ago. If you get to > Sun and Fun or Oshkosh, you can scout around and maybe find > something you like. > > If you go with three, a half gal zip lock bag or maybe it is > a gal zip lock bag makes an excellent place to stow all your > log books and paper work for yourself and you airplane. > > Had to go look. I am now using a Hefty One Zip Storage > Slider Bag with the "easy close slider", 1 gal size. :-) > > Take care, > > john h > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: my slow rebuild
Date: Mar 23, 2001
Sometimes fixing what's broke is tougher than building it to begin with. I like your ideas with the epoxy..........makes sense, and I'm going to look at it further. At work we have the double barrelled plunger epoxy outfits, with replaceable mixer tips. Seems like they'd be just the ticket for what you're saying. Vamoose' tailfeathers will be done this weekend, then he'll start on the wings, while I finish hooking up the engine. Should have startup soon. Do you have an e.t. of completion for your plane ?? Be in touch. Lar. Larry Bourne Palm Springs, Ca. Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose" http://www.biglar.homestead.com/larry.html . ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ben Ransom" <bwr000(at)yahoo.com> Sent: Sunday, March 04, 2001 12:44 PM Subject: Kolb-List: my slow rebuild > > > --- larrybiglar wrote: > > > > > > It's a pleasant surprise hearing from you after all this time. I had > > hoped > > to hear you say your rebuild was finished. How can you stand it ?? > > Thanks Lar. I had hoped I'd be able to say I was finished too. But, > my project has been a back-burner, and the front burners have had a > lot cookin. The slowness of my rebuild hasn't really bothered me. > However, I'll certainly admit to some frustrating times when I've> ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 24, 2001
From: Jack & Louise Hart <jbhart(at)ldd.net>
Subject: Firefly Speed Data
Is there anyone out there that has accumulated best indicated speed data for a Firefly, such as, Climb Best rate Best angle Glide Best distance Minimum sink? If so, what values did you get? Jack & Louise Hart jbhart(at)ldd.net ________________________________________________________________________________
From: TAILDRAGGER503(at)aol.com
Date: Mar 24, 2001
Subject: 3/16" RIVETS with Firestar Kit ?
Did anyone receive 3/16" rivets with the Firestar kit? Dave Snyder Long Branch ,N.J. Building FSII ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bryan Olson" <olson1bj(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Another world up there.
Date: Mar 24, 2001
Firestar 503 DCDI Tundra tires 70 hrs. total time I have ben lurking for about a year know, decided to step out. I bought this plane partially built and finished it last july. Did about a week of taxiing then on july 21 I soloed in this little plane. What a lot of fun, its like another world up there. Bryan Olson, Lisbon, ND olson1bj(at)hotmail.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle)
Date: Mar 24, 2001
Subject: Issues with Daily Kolb Digest Posting...
Hi Kolbers, I am aware of the problem with missing messages in the daily Kolb Digest posting. I believe that there is someone that is posting messages with some odd control character that is causing the process to abort early. I've put some diag code in place today to see if I can't maybe figure out what's going on. In the mean time, if you don't want to lose any postings I would suggest that you subscribe to the realtime version of the List. The subscription URL is: http://www.matronics.com/subscribe I will post a follow up message as soon as I figure out what's going on. Best regards, Matt Dralle Email List Admin. -- Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551 925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft Great minds discuss ideas, Average minds discuss events, Small minds discuss people... ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 24, 2001
From: "Gary r. voigt" <johndeereantique(at)uswest.net>
Subject: Re: Another world up there.
Brian, glad you like it...I too lurked on the list for about a year and a half and bought mine mostly built!!! soloed this last jan. off the ice...i love flying 15' agl off the ice for a 7 mile stretch. your right... it is another world up there...try scuba diving through the frozen ice below @75' ...I have been to H..........but like heaven a lot more. lisbon is about a 4 hr. trip from excelsior, mn. I may want to try it sometime. only if you can give me some good leads on antique stationary 1 cylinder gas engines. hehehe!!! thanks, Gary r. voigt excelsior 1996 kxp 15 hrs. Bryan Olson wrote: > > Firestar > 503 DCDI > Tundra tires > 70 hrs. total time > I have ben lurking for about a year know, decided to step out. > I bought this plane partially built and finished it last july. > Did about a week of taxiing then on july 21 I soloed in this little > plane. What a lot of fun, its like another world up there. > > Bryan Olson, Lisbon, ND > olson1bj(at)hotmail.com > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 24, 2001
From: JIMMY HANKINSON <jhankin(at)planters.net>
Subject: Tire pressure
I have a Firefly with a 447 rotax with either 5 or 6" tires, what tire pressure should I be using? Jimmy Firefly #35 Southeast Georgia ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: Another world up there.
Date: Mar 24, 2001
You got it, Bryan...........the sky is literally the limit. Have fun. Lar. Larry Bourne Palm Springs, Ca. Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose" http://www.biglar.homestead.com/larry.html . ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bryan Olson" <olson1bj(at)hotmail.com> Sent: Saturday, March 24, 2001 9:01 AM Subject: Kolb-List: Another world up there. > > Firestar > 503 DCDI > Tundra tires > 70 hrs. total time > I have ben lurking for about a year know, decided to step out. > I bought this plane partially built and finished it last july. > Did about a week of taxiing then on july 21 I soloed in this little > plane. What a lot of fun, its like another world up there. > > Bryan Olson, Lisbon, ND > olson1bj(at)hotmail.com > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 24, 2001
From: Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org>
Subject: Re: Another world up there.
I would also like to get one of those hit-and-miss engines, would like to build one of those "caveman ornithopters" like I saw putzing around at Oshkosh. Any info? Richard Pike MKIII N420P (420ldPoops) > only if you can give me some good leads on antique >stationary 1 cylinder gas engines. hehehe!!! > > thanks, > Gary r. voigt > excelsior > 1996 kxp 15 hrs. > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Roger M. Derby" <derbyrm(at)seidata.com>
Subject: Re: Tire pressure
Date: Mar 24, 2001
Enough that, with you in the pilot's seat, the edge of the tread just barely clears the pavement. Roger http://www.seidata.com/~derbyrm derbyrm(at)seidata.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "JIMMY HANKINSON" <jhankin(at)planters.net> Sent: Saturday, March 24, 2001 7:00 PM Subject: Kolb-List: Tire pressure > > I have a Firefly with a 447 rotax with either 5 or 6" tires, what tire > pressure should I be using? > > Jimmy > Firefly #35 > Southeast Georgia ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ron or Mary Payne" <ronormar(at)apex.net>
Subject: Re: 3/16" RIVETS with Firestar Kit ?
Date: Mar 25, 2001
I received 12 that I know of. They are to attach the forward bracket to the horizontal stabilizers. I don't recall any others. Ron Payne ----- Original Message ----- From: <TAILDRAGGER503(at)aol.com> Sent: Saturday, March 24, 2001 10:00 AM Subject: Kolb-List: 3/16" RIVETS with Firestar Kit ? > > Did anyone receive 3/16" rivets with the Firestar kit? > > Dave Snyder Long Branch ,N.J. Building FSII > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Cooley" <johnc(at)datasync.com>
Subject: Re: Firestar II Fuel Tanks
Date: Mar 25, 2001
Hi Gang, May want to consider the option that John Jung shared with the list a while back. I plan on doing this at some point. Here is a direct quote "The front tank has the air vent plugged. It also feeds the fuel pump and has a top line connected to the pickup from the rear tank. The rear tank is vented normally. What happens is; the rear tank empties first and then the front tank. When I fill the tanks, the front is always filled first. This has two advantages, in my mind. 1) The CG will be farther forward, except when I have both tanks full. 2) I can run both tanks almost dry. With the standard setup, I worry about the tanks draining unevenly, and starving for gas before the tanks are really empty." Later, John Cooley Building FS II #1162 ----- Original Message ----- From: <Ksbroste(at)aol.com> Sent: Thursday, March 22, 2001 2:13 PM Subject: Kolb-List: Firestar II Fuel Tanks > > What is the most efficient positioning of the fuel tanks (2) in terms of > refueling and positioning of the vent and supply lines? Thanks. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Cavuontop(at)aol.com
Date: Mar 25, 2001
Subject: Re: Rotax 582 in-flight failure
Gentlemen: I write in connection with the excellent accident report of WGeorge737 and his discussion the seizure of his 582. Like a lot of guys who are serious about trying to live through a career in light experimental aviation I read the accident reports with great interest. What this has revealed to me is the enormous variation in levels of operator sophistication of Rotax engines-- much greater than in general aviation where licensed mechanics are needed to perform annual inspections. We run the gamut from guys like John Hauck to guys with zero time who buy a Kolb because they think its like a motorcycle. When low time/low sophistication operators seize their 2 stroke engines the causes, to the extent they can be ascertained with any clarity at all, can usually be classified into a few categories that all of us should recognize by now: "the 582 with no thermostat cold seizure scenario" comes quickly to mind, followed by others like "attempted to take off with pre mix fuel from last September" or "used tap water in the 582 cooling system with nonstandard radiator." Accidents which result from those scenarios teach us only one thing -- that we as a group are not doing a good enough job in communicating the essential information you need to fly safely to the guys who are new to the sport. However, when a sophisticated operator has a problem it is an opportunity for the rest of us to learn something that could be very important -- because it is not one of those obvious mistakes -- and is necessarily more subtle and complicated. Let me be up front about my motivation in pursuing this-- I fly on a 582 myself -- and I have exchanged enough email with Bill George to know that he is a conscientious and sophisticated operator and I want to avoid what happened to him. I think what happened to Bill is worthy of close scrutiny for a number of reasons which I will expand on below. So let me rehash the facts in condensed form: Bill found some oil on his tail and traced it to a split in one of the clear plastic lines from the oil injection pump to the intake manifold. Bill replaced the lines with new ones which necessarily entailed draining the injection pump. Everyone knows that running your 582 without oil in the injection lines (or even bubbles) is a very bad idea so Bill fueled the plane with 100:1 premix. The engine was started and run at low rpm for a few minutes. In that time the oil pump filled the lines except for a few bubbles. The engine was then run again at low to moderate RPM until all the air was purged. Bill then took off and the engine seized when he reduced from take off power. What makes this story particularly troubling is that Bill took good precautions to avoid the problem, but seized anyway. The operator's manual explicitly mentions the 100:1 premix procedure for the engine break in to ensure good lubrication so it was logical to import that procedure into the post repair start up in view of the empty oil lines. Purely as a matter of speculation it is possible to construct a scenario where we posit that the cylinder which was deprived of oil by the split in the line may have overheated a little and possibly scuffed or scored, though not enough to seize, during the time it was run prior to the repair. After the repair the engine was run at a low rpm for a short period on just 100:1. While that may be sufficient for extra lubrication on break in it is insufficient even for idle. (If memory serves the lowest ratio the Rotax oil pump meters at is 70:1 at idle.) That may have caused additional scuffing before the pump filled the injection lines and the fuel oil mix got back on spec, though I regard that as unlikely. It has been widely observed that 2 stroke engine seizures frequently happen on the first throttle reduction after take off. It seems that the reduction in rotational momentum from the rpm drop plus the additional heat from moving down the mixture curve to the needle jet can seize an engine that is operating on the edge. This phenomena is well described by the folks at Group K, see http://www.groupk.com/seizures.html, and should be required reading for all 2 stroke operators. (And a thanks to Mr. Pike for alerting me to this.) What is clear is that a scuff on a cylinder which appears small or minor can rapidly -- the folks at Group K might say instantaneously -- generate enough friction and heat to seize a cylinder. By way of contrast, but not criticism, I would have used a slightly different procedure for the repair Bill made -- and I underline that it is always easy to pontificate in hindsight. First, I when it became apparent one cylinder had been running off spec as a result of the split in the oil line I would have removed the exhaust manifold and checked for signs of overheating. Second, though I don't think the procedure is mentioned in the repair manual my understanding is that the accepted method of filling the oil injection lines after they have been drained is to remove a plug from each cylinder and simply pull the prop through again and again and turn the oil pump until the lines are full. Then simply run the engine as normal with no need for additional oil in the fuel. I will investigate and find out exactly what the correct procedure is and report to the group. In the mean time it would be helpful if Bill could determine which cylinder seized and whether it seized on the intake or the exhaust side. Also, there was no mention of CHT or water temp indications. What were they doing? Mark R. Sellers Kolb Twinstar Mark III N496BM ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Timandjan(at)aol.com
Date: Mar 25, 2001
Subject: Re: 3/16" RIVETS with Firestar Kit ?
Just for the tail attachment front bracket, need to eat your weaties to pull them though. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Scott Olendorf" <solendor(at)nycap.rr.com>
Subject: Re: firestar cover
Date: Mar 25, 2001
I make a cover for my plane every year out of Tyvek housewrap. I use the Tyvek tape that goes with it and it lasts about 6 months outside before UV takes its toll. I big roll is about $150 but will make covers for 8 or 9 seasons. The Tyvek is very slippery and does not chafe the fabric at all. I put a flannel blanket over the windshield however. Scott Olendorf Original Firestar, Rotax 377 Schenectady, NY http://home.nycap.rr.com/firestar/ "Reality is for those who lack imagination" ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dave Leaf" <705460(at)ican.net> Sent: Wednesday, March 21, 2001 6:58 PM Subject: Re: Kolb-List: firestar cover > > Anybody know where to buy an outdoor cover for a Firestar ?, I may have to > store my airplane outside and I'd like to keep it from filling up with water > ! , Even if I could buy the right kind of fabric perhaps I could make one > myself. > > Thanks, > > > Dave Leaf > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 26, 2001
From: Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org>
Subject: Re: Rotax 582 in-flight failure
Something that may be helpful: years ago when I made a living as a motorcycle mechanic, we discovered a way to speed up the process of refilling a 2-stroke oil pump and purging the lines: take the oil pump cable and pull it to wide open. Not all the cables, or the throttle, just the oil pump cable. You might want to get a rubber band and tie it up in such a way to hold it at max pump setting. Then when you crank the engine over, it will pump about 5 times as fast. Also, it makes the oil move briskly enough through the tubes so that it pushes the air bubbles along smartly and doesn't allow them to back up or anything. Richard Pike MKIII N420P (420ldpoops) > >Gentlemen: > > I write in connection with the excellent accident report of WGeorge737 >and his discussion the seizure of his 582. > though I don't think the procedure is mentioned in the >repair manual my understanding is that the accepted method of filling the oil >injection lines after they have been drained is to remove a plug from each >cylinder and simply pull the prop through again and again and turn the oil >pump until the lines are full. Then simply run the engine as normal with no >need for additional oil in the fuel. > > I will investigate and find out exactly what the correct procedure is >and report to the group. > > >Mark R. Sellers >Kolb Twinstar Mark III >N496BM > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 26, 2001
From: John Richmond <twoschmoops(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Firefly Speed Data
Yeah, and the same numbers for a MkIII w/ 582 !?! --- Jack & Louise Hart wrote: > > Is there anyone out there that has accumulated best indicated speed > data > for a Firefly, such as, > > Climb > Best rate > Best angle > Glide > Best distance > Minimum sink? > > If so, what values did you get? > > > Jack & Louise Hart > jbhart(at)ldd.net > > > > > > ===== John & Lynn Richmond :-) Palm Coast, Fl. Mk3, 582 Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 26, 2001
From: John Richmond <twoschmoops(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Rotax 582 in-flight failure
Mark, Great info, expecially because I am precisely on of those low hour, new guys! I am reading all I can find on engine problems, and taking the 3 day rotax course from Lockwood in April, but the insights from you experts is always the most valuable. Thanks again for this help, and that link to groupk. You're another guy to get to run into someday, where you located? --- Cavuontop(at)aol.com wrote: > > Gentlemen: > > I write in connection with the excellent accident report of > WGeorge737 > and his discussion the seizure of his 582. > > Like a lot of guys who are serious about trying to live > through a > career in light experimental aviation I read the accident reports > with great > interest. What this has revealed to me is the enormous variation in > levels > of operator sophistication of Rotax engines-- much greater than in > general > aviation where licensed mechanics are needed to perform annual > inspections. > We run the gamut from guys like John Hauck to guys with zero time who > buy a > Kolb because they think its like a motorcycle. > > When low time/low sophistication operators seize their 2 > stroke > engines the causes, to the extent they can be ascertained with any > clarity at > all, can usually be classified into a few categories that all of us > should > recognize by now: "the 582 with no thermostat cold seizure scenario" > comes > quickly to mind, followed by others like "attempted to take off with > pre mix > fuel from last September" or "used tap water in the 582 cooling > system with > nonstandard radiator." > > Accidents which result from those scenarios teach us only one > thing -- > that we as a group are not doing a good enough job in communicating > the > essential information you need to fly safely to the guys who are new > to the > sport. > > However, when a sophisticated operator has a problem it is an > opportunity for the rest of us to learn something that could be very > important -- because it is not one of those obvious mistakes -- and > is > necessarily more subtle and complicated. > > Let me be up front about my motivation in pursuing this-- I > fly on a > 582 myself -- and I have exchanged enough email with Bill George to > know that > he is a conscientious and sophisticated operator and I want to avoid > what > happened to him. I think what happened to Bill is worthy of close > scrutiny > for a number of reasons which I will expand on below. > > So let me rehash the facts in condensed form: Bill found some > oil on > his tail and traced it to a split in one of the clear plastic lines > from the > oil injection pump to the intake manifold. Bill replaced the lines > with new > ones which necessarily entailed draining the injection pump. > Everyone knows > that running your 582 without oil in the injection lines (or even > bubbles) is > a very bad idea so Bill fueled the plane with 100:1 premix. The > engine was > started and run at low rpm for a few minutes. In that time the oil > pump > filled the lines except for a few bubbles. The engine was then run > again at > low to moderate RPM until all the air was purged. Bill then took off > and the > engine seized when he reduced from take off power. > > What makes this story particularly troubling is that Bill took > good > precautions to avoid the problem, but seized anyway. The operator's > manual > explicitly mentions the 100:1 premix procedure for the engine break > in to > ensure good lubrication so it was logical to import that procedure > into the > post repair start up in view of the empty oil lines. > > Purely as a matter of speculation it is possible to construct > a > scenario where we posit that the cylinder which was deprived of oil > by the > split in the line may have overheated a little and possibly scuffed > or > scored, though not enough to seize, during the time it was run prior > to the > repair. After the repair the engine was run at a low rpm for a short > period > on just 100:1. While that may be sufficient for extra lubrication on > break > in it is insufficient even for idle. (If memory serves the lowest > ratio the > Rotax oil pump meters at is 70:1 at idle.) That may have caused > additional > scuffing before the pump filled the injection lines and the fuel oil > mix got > back on spec, though I regard that as unlikely. > > It has been widely observed that 2 stroke engine seizures > frequently > happen on the first throttle reduction after take off. It seems that > the > reduction in rotational momentum from the rpm drop plus the > additional heat > from moving down the mixture curve to the needle jet can seize an > engine that > is operating on the edge. This phenomena is well described by the > folks at > Group K, see http://www.groupk.com/seizures.html, and should be > required > reading for all 2 stroke operators. (And a thanks to Mr. Pike for > alerting > me to this.) > > What is clear is that a scuff on a cylinder which appears > small or > minor can rapidly -- the folks at Group K might say instantaneously > -- > generate enough friction and heat to seize a cylinder. > > By way of contrast, but not criticism, I would have used a > slightly > different procedure for the repair Bill made -- and I underline that > it is > always easy to pontificate in hindsight. First, I when it became > apparent > one cylinder had been running off spec as a result of the split in > the oil > line I would have removed the exhaust manifold and checked for signs > of > overheating. Second, though I don't think the procedure is mentioned > in the > repair manual my understanding is that the accepted method of filling > the oil > injection lines after they have been drained is to remove a plug from > each > cylinder and simply pull the prop through again and again and turn > the oil > pump until the lines are full. Then simply run the engine as normal > with no > need for additional oil in the fuel. > > I will investigate and find out exactly what the correct > procedure is > and report to the group. > > In the mean time it would be helpful if Bill could determine > which > cylinder seized and whether it seized on the intake or the exhaust > side. > Also, there was no mention of CHT or water temp indications. What > were they > doing? > > > Mark R. Sellers > Kolb Twinstar Mark III > N496BM > > > > > > ===== John & Lynn Richmond :-) Palm Coast, Fl. Mk3, 582 Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Kottke, Dwight" <dkottke(at)scherping.carlisle.com>
Subject: Rotax 582 in-flight failure
Date: Mar 26, 2001
I also responded to the original report with the possibility of the crank seizing. Until this motor is torn down all of us are just guessing. -----Original Message----- From: Cavuontop(at)aol.com [mailto:Cavuontop(at)aol.com] Sent: Sunday, March 25, 2001 4:02 PM Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Rotax 582 in-flight failure Gentlemen: I write in connection with the excellent accident report of WGeorge737 and his discussion the seizure of his 582. Like a lot of guys who are serious about trying to live through a career in light experimental aviation I read the accident reports with great interest. What this has revealed to me is the enormous variation in levels of operator sophistication of Rotax engines-- much greater than in general aviation where licensed mechanics are needed to perform annual inspections. We run the gamut from guys like John Hauck to guys with zero time who buy a Kolb because they think its like a motorcycle. When low time/low sophistication operators seize their 2 stroke engines the causes, to the extent they can be ascertained with any clarity at all, can usually be classified into a few categories that all of us should recognize by now: "the 582 with no thermostat cold seizure scenario" comes quickly to mind, followed by others like "attempted to take off with pre mix fuel from last September" or "used tap water in the 582 cooling system with nonstandard radiator." Accidents which result from those scenarios teach us only one thing -- that we as a group are not doing a good enough job in communicating the essential information you need to fly safely to the guys who are new to the sport. However, when a sophisticated operator has a problem it is an opportunity for the rest of us to learn something that could be very important -- because it is not one of those obvious mistakes -- and is necessarily more subtle and complicated. Let me be up front about my motivation in pursuing this-- I fly on a 582 myself -- and I have exchanged enough email with Bill George to know that he is a conscientious and sophisticated operator and I want to avoid what happened to him. I think what happened to Bill is worthy of close scrutiny for a number of reasons which I will expand on below. So let me rehash the facts in condensed form: Bill found some oil on his tail and traced it to a split in one of the clear plastic lines from the oil injection pump to the intake manifold. Bill replaced the lines with new ones which necessarily entailed draining the injection pump. Everyone knows that running your 582 without oil in the injection lines (or even bubbles) is a very bad idea so Bill fueled the plane with 100:1 premix. The engine was started and run at low rpm for a few minutes. In that time the oil pump filled the lines except for a few bubbles. The engine was then run again at low to moderate RPM until all the air was purged. Bill then took off and the engine seized when he reduced from take off power. What makes this story particularly troubling is that Bill took good precautions to avoid the problem, but seized anyway. The operator's manual explicitly mentions the 100:1 premix procedure for the engine break in to ensure good lubrication so it was logical to import that procedure into the post repair start up in view of the empty oil lines. Purely as a matter of speculation it is possible to construct a scenario where we posit that the cylinder which was deprived of oil by the split in the line may have overheated a little and possibly scuffed or scored, though not enough to seize, during the time it was run prior to the repair. After the repair the engine was run at a low rpm for a short period on just 100:1. While that may be sufficient for extra lubrication on break in it is insufficient even for idle. (If memory serves the lowest ratio the Rotax oil pump meters at is 70:1 at idle.) That may have caused additional scuffing before the pump filled the injection lines and the fuel oil mix got back on spec, though I regard that as unlikely. It has been widely observed that 2 stroke engine seizures frequently happen on the first throttle reduction after take off. It seems that the reduction in rotational momentum from the rpm drop plus the additional heat from moving down the mixture curve to the needle jet can seize an engine that is operating on the edge. This phenomena is well described by the folks at Group K, see http://www.groupk.com/seizures.html, and should be required reading for all 2 stroke operators. (And a thanks to Mr. Pike for alerting me to this.) What is clear is that a scuff on a cylinder which appears small or minor can rapidly -- the folks at Group K might say instantaneously -- generate enough friction and heat to seize a cylinder. By way of contrast, but not criticism, I would have used a slightly different procedure for the repair Bill made -- and I underline that it is always easy to pontificate in hindsight. First, I when it became apparent one cylinder had been running off spec as a result of the split in the oil line I would have removed the exhaust manifold and checked for signs of overheating. Second, though I don't think the procedure is mentioned in the repair manual my understanding is that the accepted method of filling the oil injection lines after they have been drained is to remove a plug from each cylinder and simply pull the prop through again and again and turn the oil pump until the lines are full. Then simply run the engine as normal with no need for additional oil in the fuel. I will investigate and find out exactly what the correct procedure is and report to the group. In the mean time it would be helpful if Bill could determine which cylinder seized and whether it seized on the intake or the exhaust side. Also, there was no mention of CHT or water temp indications. What were they doing? Mark R. Sellers Kolb Twinstar Mark III N496BM ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Dale Seitzer <dale(at)gmada.com>
Subject: Free Air 447 on a Kolb Firestar
Date: Mar 26, 2001
I reveiwed the installation manual for the engine and Rotax agrees. I also checked the parts numbers and there are different shrouds and fan housing needed to convert a newer CDI frre air and use my old points / fan housing. I am now scrounging for a used flywheel. I am also checking the snowmobile junk yards---the flywheel is identical to the UL flywheel as long as it is point ignition and they have used CDI for over 10 years on snowmobiles. Thanks, Dale Dale, I manufacture and sale Free-Air scoops for air cooled Rotax engines, the free-air setup should only be used in the tractor configuration. If you are keeping your old engine, just use the parts from it to convert your new engine to fan cooled. Denny > I have a line on a newer 447 but it is a free air engine--anybody ever seen > a Kolb Firestar with a free air engine? My old engine is a points > ignition and the free air one is CDI--I believe I can make the switch over > but I am curious about the lighter engine and a little more power vs fan > cooled. > > Dale Seitzer > Original Firestar > St. PAul ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 26, 2001
From: "Mike Foley" <mfoley(at)Thermawave.com>
Subject: Re: reccommend pilot log book
As far as I know If the AC is an experimental you have to have all 3 books Mike >>> johndeereantique(at)uswest.net 03/23/01 12:57PM >>> Can anyone recommend a good pilot log book... I,am not happy with the one i received from cps... too much useless information. and don't want to purchase 3 different log books for pilot, engine maint. and air frame...would like one book that would contain extra space for these logs. what are the rest of you using. p.s. winter flying has been good for the latter part of winter on lk. minnetonka!!!!! thanks, Gary r. voigt ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 26, 2001
From: Ben Ransom <bwr000(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: my slow rebuild
> > Sometimes fixing what's broke is tougher than building it to begin > with. True for me, that's for sure. Gotta admit too that my "squeeze every building moment possible" feeling is not as strong as the first round. > I like your ideas with the epoxy..........makes sense, and I'm going > to look > at it further. At work we have the double barrelled plunger epoxy > outfits, > with replaceable mixer tips. Seems like they'd be just the ticket > for what > you're saying. Finding the right syringe is really helpful for this. The goal is to get something you can put 3-4 ounces in and has a hole that matches the viscosity of the epoxy. I like to add a few microballoons too -- not as much to make paste though, just enf to slow it down from running. > Vamoose' tailfeathers will be done this > weekend, then > he'll start on the wings, while I finish hooking up the engine. > Should have > startup soon. Do you have an e.t. of completion for your > plane ?? No. I'm not that brave. One wknd at a time = someday ...you know the feeling, right? -Ben Ransom Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 26, 2001
From: Ben Ransom <bwr000(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: tank and BRS location options
Scott, I just checked out some of your web pics. I've had my BRS(4) installed in the same place as yours. Yes, a tight squeeze. Unfortunately, mine was easy to remove because I had to tear off all the fabric for cage repairs! In my rebuild, I've wanted to get either the gas tank or the BRS out of that fine baggage area. I do like keeping the BRS out of the rain and also inside for less drag. I specifically do not like sharing cabin space with a gas tank, and I've also wondered how smart it is to mount a gas tank and hoses right on top of a BRS rocket. I had been sure I would make tanks in the wings, but abandoned that idea. Vent tube ideas get really complicated when considering how to allow for the wings in folded position, and filling the tank while on the trailer also gets ugly. So, my current plan is to look again at making a custom tank between the wings -- I think Richard Pike did that. Ideally, such a tank would combine with whatever surfaces are needed to serve as gap seal, negating the need to put that on or off at each wing fold. Got to also consider safety parameters in having it mounted basically above the pilot, but I think it is fair to assume that in a crash landing bad enf to break the tank, nothing would be sitting in normal position anyway. -Ben Ransom --- Scott Olendorf wrote: > I make a cover for my plane every year out of Tyvek housewrap. I use > the > Tyvek tape that goes with it and it lasts about 6 months outside Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Edward Steuber" <esteuber(at)rochester.rr.com>
Subject: Ultrastar
Date: Mar 26, 2001
After speaking to Richard Swiderski on the phone last week and having all my questions about Ultrastars answered , I now have a couple more for the list. I want to modify the ultrastar with a longer flexible gear to solve the prop clearance problem and the damage associated to the frame with hard landings. I think the Slingshot gear is the answer but tying it in to the cage is going to recquire a bit of engineering . Anybody have any experience with this gear on the Ultrastar. I think the weight(steel) is the one factor that might screw this up....Alternative landing gear legs...?... Another benefit could be a longer prop if the frame was deepened at the same time. I am going to have to rebuild a complete frame anyway so mods will be much easily accomplished than modifying old.I have already modified my 1st ultrastar with a Firestar fairing and new steel tubing from the back of the seat forward. It has a centerline stick with no change in control inputs or geometry. It sure looks better and CG is better at 21" The 2nd machine will be flown by my low-time sons and I would like to make it a bit more durable, if you know what I mean. The other question is in regards to an electric carburetor heat unit that runs off the lighting coil that is available for the 36mm Bing . Is there a similar unit for a 32mm MIkuni ? Or is there another way to heat the Mikuni mounted on a Cayuna UL1102 ? Western N.Y. is carb ice territory year round and am very concerned that this could and will ruin my day ..... Thanks again for all the good info , Richard, I enjoyed the talk...Ed Steuber ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 26, 2001
From: Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org>
Subject: Re: Ultrastar
There was an article in the EAA Experimenter years ago about someone modifying an Ultrastar with fiberglass gear legs like a Vari Eze has. Unidirectional glass, and very strong. One of the locals tried it on his Ultrastar and it worked great, unfortunately, it did not help when his brother stalled it out about 20 feet up and made it into a lawn dart. (walked away) Richard Pike MKIII N420P (420ldPoops) > >After speaking to Richard Swiderski on the phone last week and having >all my questions about Ultrastars answered , I now have a couple more >for the list. I want to modify the ultrastar with a longer flexible gear >to solve the prop clearance problem and the damage associated to the >frame with hard landings. >Ed Steuber ________________________________________________________________________________
From: HShack(at)aol.com
Date: Mar 26, 2001
Subject: Re: Helmet with built in headset
Does anyone know of a helmet with built-in headset for use in a UL [not "Comtronics"]? I want to install the Active Noise Reduction Modules from "Headsets, Inc." but they won't fit in my Ultra-pro 2000 helmet. I tried on a military-style helmet with that ANL with my 503 running at 4,000 rpm & the noise reduction was dramatic! I've got to have it! I would consider not wearing a helmet but I need something to hang my flip-up visor on [my plane is a Kolb Firestar I with the short windscreen]. Have tried goggles and can't use them over my prescription glasses. Howard Shackleford FS I SC ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 26, 2001
From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Helmet with built in headset
Howard and Gang: That wind in the face used to bug heck outta me in my original Firestar, until I fabricated a small faring of .060 Lexan. I originally wore big Scott goggles over my specs with a David Clark cloth helmet. After the faring, I could wear my regular glasses and a baseball cap. Here's a pic of the set up: http://hawk36.home.mindspring.com/Cuz'n%20P'fer/Osh89%20Grand%20Champ%20UL.JPG john h ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: Helmet with built in headset
Date: Mar 26, 2001
John's idea looks great, but if you decide you don't want to do that, go to a motorcycle shop. I had the same problem with the hang glider, and the goggles a local Yamaha shop sold me are a perfect fit over my glasses, and vented too. Look like ski goggles, and have replaceable lenses, available in different colors - such as clear, yellow for cloudy days, gray for neutral color change, etc. I forget the price, but they Were a little spendy. The flip-up visor on my helmet had (has) an annoying blast of wind around the edges, into my eyes, and drove me nuts. Short trip. Big Lar. Larry Bourne Palm Springs, Ca. Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose" http://www.biglar.homestead.com/larry.html . ----- Original Message ----- From: <HShack(at)aol.com> Sent: Monday, March 26, 2001 2:06 PM Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Helmet with built in headset > > Does anyone know of a helmet with built-in headset for use in a UL [not > "Comtronics"]? I want to install the Active Noise Reduction Modules from > "Headsets, Inc." but they won't fit in my Ultra-pro 2000 helmet. > > I tried on a military-style helmet with that ANL with my 503 running at > 4,000 rpm & the noise reduction was dramatic! I've got to have it! I would > consider not wearing a helmet but I need something to hang my flip-up visor > on [my plane is a Kolb Firestar I with the short windscreen]. Have tried > goggles and can't use them over my prescription glasses. > > Howard Shackleford > FS I > SC > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Richard Swiderski" <swiderskir(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Ultrastar
Date: Mar 26, 2001
Ed, Regarding longer legs, fiberglass will be heaviest of all reasonable options. If you use SS or other "off the shelf legs" you will have to build a hefty box structure which is additional weight. My research led me to believe the lightest method is to use the existing attachments (or slightly modify them) & use large diameter tubing of relitively thin wall thickness (0.32"). If memory serves me right, the front tube was 1 1/8" or 1 1/4" & the rear tube was 7/8". I used a nearly solid 5/8" axle gussetted to the two tubes, but a heavy wall 3/4" might be better. The 2 legs had a simple X assembly holding them together. The X had a sliding mechanism that allowed it to expand. Bungie wraps held the slide together & a 3/16" bolt acted as a stop if the bungie overextended. It was light & strong & took tremendous abuse. Regarding carb heat: There is a product to unthaw frozen pipes. It is simply a flat wire with a high resistance (nicrome?). You just wrapped around the pipe & plugged it in! You could leave it on to prevent frezzing. Could you not just wrap your carbs with the stuff & let your A/C current keep the carbs snug? .....I now have a couple more > for the list. I want to modify the ultrastar with a longer flexible gear > to solve the prop clearance problem and the damage associated to the > frame with hard landings. I think the Slingshot gear is the answer but > tying it in to the cage is going to recquire a bit of engineering . I think the > weight(steel) is the one factor that might screw this up....Alternative > landing gear legs...?... Another benefit could be a longer prop if the > frame was deepened at the same time. The other question is in regards to an electric > carburetor heat unit that runs off the lighting coil that is available > for the 36mm Bing . Is there a similar unit for a 32mm MIkuni ? Or is > there another way to heat the Mikuni mounted on a Cayuna UL1102 ?..... ...Ed Steuber ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Richard Swiderski" <swiderskir(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Helmet with built in headset
Date: Mar 26, 2001
Howard, I found a product that fits ( http://www.anr-headsets.com/ ) but they don't want to mess with Comptronics because of their many variations of circuitry. I feel sure if we map out what we have (especially how they match mic, eg., if using a transformer, what ratio ect.) they would send one. I plan on doing this, just not enough time! ...Richard Swiderski ----- Original Message ----- From: <HShack(at)aol.com> Sent: Monday, March 26, 2001 5:06 PM Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Helmet with built in headset > > Does anyone know of a helmet with built-in headset for use in a UL [not > "Comtronics"]? I want to install the Active Noise Reduction Modules from > "Headsets, Inc." but they won't fit in my Ultra-pro 2000 helmet. > > I tried on a military-style helmet with that ANL with my 503 running at > 4,000 rpm & the noise reduction was dramatic! I've got to have it! I would > consider not wearing a helmet but I need something to hang my flip-up visor > on [my plane is a Kolb Firestar I with the short windscreen]. Have tried > goggles and can't use them over my prescription glasses. > > Howard Shackleford > FS I > SC > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 26, 2001
From: David Hempy <dhempy(at)dlmail.ket.org>
Subject: Re: Ultrastar
I've recently joined this list and perused the archives, searching for anything about the Ultrastar. Pleased to find many references, all quite complimentary. You see, I just took in a homeless Ultrastar, and hope to restore it...possibly next winter. It is in pretty rough shape, but I can see a solid plane inside. I've posted a dozen or so pictures on the website below. The neglect is evident, but there does not appear to be any damage. I'll tear it all down, recover the wings, sand and paint the fuselage, and so on. I'm sure you guys will get tired of my questions before long. I'm interested in the discussion on extending the gear. The Cuyuna on it is probably serviceable, but I'll probably use a good 447 I've got in the attic. Or possibly a 503, but I'm going to try my darndest to keep this thing as light as possible. In any event, I would welcome a larger prop. Here's some pictures: http://www.bluegrassultralightgroup.org/members/hempy/ultrastar/ -dave David Hempy -- USUA Region 6 Representative (KY-IN-MI-OH) ASC Trike BFI #BKY56 -- www.BluegrassUltralightGroup.org -- EAA #456510 -- -- (c)2001,DBH Views expressed are solely my own, unless explicitly stated otherwise. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 26, 2001
From: George Alexander <gtalexander(at)att.net>
Subject: Re: Helmet with built in headset
HShack(at)aol.com wrote: > > > Does anyone know of a helmet with built-in headset for use in a UL [not > "Comtronics"]? I want to install the Active Noise Reduction Modules from > "Headsets, Inc." but they won't fit in my Ultra-pro 2000 helmet. > > I tried on a military-style helmet with that ANL with my 503 running at > 4,000 rpm & the noise reduction was dramatic! I've got to have it! I would > consider not wearing a helmet but I need something to hang my flip-up visor > on [my plane is a Kolb Firestar I with the short windscreen]. Have tried > goggles and can't use them over my prescription glasses. Howard: I wear tri-focals and have found that the very light goggles worn by many sky-divers work great. They have a version designed to be worn over regular glasses. No obstruction from the thick frame like on the cycle or ski goggles. Vents on the sides to prevent fogging. $8, even cheaper if ordered in quantity. Para-Gear is where I get mine. These are at: http://www.paragear.com/goggles/ Item No. G1128 (about 2/3 down the page). George Alexander http://gtalexander.home.att.net ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bryan Olson" <olson1bj(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Tundra tires
Date: Mar 26, 2001
The tundra tires are actually ballon tires from airstar 8.00-6 about 18 in. tall. They really smoothed out my runway. Today it was 30 deg. and light winds, went up about 5000 ft. that was a first for me. I did a few power on stalls at 4000 rpms it broke clean and the nose dropped, it kinda gets the heart pounding.. By the way, thanks for all the good information on this list. I dont think I would have got off the ground without it. bjolson(at)hotmail.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: SGreenpg(at)aol.com
Date: Mar 26, 2001
Subject: Group K on piston seizure
Kolbers, Before I start I want to say that this is merely my opinion!! I read with great interest the article about piston seizure published by Group K. I have to disagree with the following if they are using the term "press fit" to mean interference fit. " If you could freeze your engine "in motion" in the middle of a long full throttle pass, and disassemble it for micrometer measurement, you would find the piston to measure at a .0005" to .0015" press fit into the bore. That's right, a slight press fit! " If there were an interference fit between the cylinder and the piston this would mean that the oil film would have to be strong enough to shrink the piston or expand the cylinder. If the cylinder were expanding with every stroke of the piston it would very quickly fatigue around the ports and crack. It would take a tremendous amount of power to move a piston up and down through an interference fit at 12000 strokes per minute not to mention the heat that would be generated. There is such an engine that does have a slight interference fit between the piston and cylinder but these have no rings and the interference is only when the piston is very close to top dead center. These are most commonly used in model airplanes and have a brass cylinder sleeve that is chrome plated. Please be sure to read the first sentence. What are your thoughts? Steven Green N58SG MK III 34.1 hours (only 5.9 to go) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 26, 2001
From: slyck <slyck(at)frontiernet.net>
Subject: Aerothane
Group: I checked the archives on this and didn't find anything, so here goes---A little tip for the Aerothane (or Imron, catalyzed urethane, etc). After you have stirred in the catalyst, put the top back on- Let it sit for 30 minutes! then spray. This is especially important if painting below 70 deg F. It allows the mix to form enough body to prevent annoying runs on vertical surfaces. Don't worry about it hardening or clotting in the pot-it won't. Me, I'm going to get a nice pressure pot working so I don't have to put up with refilling that annoying little can. ---(would really like to try John's HVLP outfit tho) Bob B. mkIII, new spar in left wing, cage welding next ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ian Heritch" <heritch(at)connecti.com>
Subject: Copper Tape
Date: Mar 26, 2001
Anyone have a clue as to where I can buy 1" copper tape, or thin copper foil I can cut into 1" strips? I am going to use this stuff to make a ground plane for my com antenna. Ian Heritch Slingshot 912, San Antonio ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dean Halstead" <deanbo(at)calweb.com>
Subject: Re: Copper Tape
Date: Mar 26, 2001
Adhesive backed copper foil tape is used for "Tiffany Style" stained glass work. I have not seen 1 inch wide tape but 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2 inch widths are readily available through stained glass shops. Who knows, they may even have 1 inch. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Flycrazy8(at)aol.com
Date: Mar 26, 2001
Subject: Re: Ultrastar
Why change something that is great to fly........Sounds like you are asking for troubles...... ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 26, 2001
From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Group K on piston seizure
> Please be sure to read the first sentence. > What are your thoughts? > > Steven Green Steven and Gang: The Group K guys are running Ski Doo's and we are running airplanes. I haven't been involved with 2 strokes in a long time, and I forget a lot of information. But what ever Rotax called for minimum piston to cylinder clearance, we always cut the cylinder a few more thousandths for good measure. My own thoughts are, when the clearance gets too close (we are working with aluminum piston and cast iron cylinder liner) eventually we will overcome that thin film of oil that seperates the two. Once it is gone in one tiny spot, it will probably spread quite quickly. I also believe that our aircraft engines are more continuous duty that the Ski Doo's. Live a different life style. Eric Tucker shared with me that they have never had to replace a 912 cylinder in 11 years and over 7,000 engines. That was January 2000. Right, it is a 4 stroke, but of significance is the 912 has no cast iron cylinder liner. Piston and cylinder are aluminum. Piston to cylinder clearance for a new engine is: ***I can not remember exactly and am too tired to go look it up at the moment. Will post the official clearance when I find it in the book. However, it is something like .001 and tighter. Take care, john h ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Scott Olendorf" <solendor(at)nycap.rr.com>
Subject: Re: tank and BRS location options
Date: Mar 26, 2001
I can't see how you can get a big enough tank above your head in the gap seal unless it sticks out above a few inches. Haven't done the math but it looks too small. If it doesn't interfere with aileron controls I think I would hang the BRS underneath the fuse tube at about the same spot. Then I would be able to use that space. If you made a tank to start at the main root tube and go down from there making it flush with the sides I would think that would be the best use of space. I can see getting at least 8 gals there and still having lots of room underneath. Get building, I miss your flying pictures!! Scott Olendorf ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ben Ransom" <bwr000(at)yahoo.com> Sent: Monday, March 26, 2001 1:31 PM Subject: Kolb-List: tank and BRS location options > > Scott, > I just checked out some of your web pics. I've had my BRS(4) installed > in the same place as yours. Yes, a tight squeeze. Unfortunately, mine > was easy to remove because I had to tear off all the fabric for cage > repairs! In my rebuild, I've wanted to get either the gas tank or the > BRS out of that fine baggage area. I do like keeping the BRS out of > the rain and also inside for less drag. I specifically do not like > sharing cabin space with a gas tank, and I've also wondered how smart > it is to mount a gas tank and hoses right on top of a BRS rocket. > > I had been sure I would make tanks in the wings, but abandoned that > idea. Vent tube ideas get really complicated when considering how to > allow for the wings in folded position, and filling the tank while on > the trailer also gets ugly. So, my current plan is to look again at > making a custom tank between the wings -- I think Richard Pike did > that. Ideally, such a tank would combine with whatever surfaces are > needed to serve as gap seal, negating the need to put that on or off at > each wing fold. Got to also consider safety parameters in having it > mounted basically above the pilot, but I think it is fair to assume > that in a crash landing bad enf to break the tank, nothing would be > sitting in normal position anyway. > -Ben Ransom > > --- Scott Olendorf wrote: > > I make a cover for my plane every year out of Tyvek housewrap. I use > > the > > Tyvek tape that goes with it and it lasts about 6 months outside > > > Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 26, 2001
From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: tank and BRS location options
I can see getting at least 8 gals > there and still having lots of room underneath. >Scott Scott and Gang: My original Firestar had an 18 gallon (usable) fuel tank, welded up with 5052 .050 aluminum. It was designed to fit in the space from the center longeron up, behind the bulkhead. That left everything else below for cargo, except space taken up by the boom tube. I had about the same duration with this setup and a 447 as I do now with 25 gal tank and 912S. The fuel tank and cargo bay are configured in my MK III like they were in the original Firestar. Take care, john h ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gary Shellberg" <shelfarm(at)netins.net>
Subject: Re: Copper Tape
Date: Mar 26, 2001
Ian - you can purchase copper foil in approx. 6"x6" size at NAPA auto parts stores ( they sell it as shim stock in various thicknesses ). ----- Original Message ----- From: Ian Heritch <heritch(at)connecti.com> Sent: Monday, March 26, 2001 8:24 PM Subject: Kolb-List: Copper Tape > > Anyone have a clue as to where I can buy 1" copper tape, or thin copper foil > I can cut into 1" strips? I am going to use this stuff to make a ground > plane for my com antenna. > > Ian Heritch > Slingshot 912, San Antonio > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 26, 2001
From: Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org>
Subject: Fuel tank in wing gap
I have had my airplane all apart this winter doing some upgrades, and the fuel tank/gap seal was out for some mods of it's own. I have taken some pictures and will add several pages to my web site specific to how to make a fuel tank to fit in the gap seal, but that is still a few weeks away. For those who cannot wait, I can send out some .jpg pictures and a summary of what was done. I am leaving town until Sunday night, send me off list and I'll make something up and send it to everybody interested next week. (All 2 of you!) Richard Pike MKIII N420P (420ldPoops) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Richard Swiderski" <swiderskir(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Group K on piston seizure
Date: Mar 26, 2001
John, I agree with you also. I honed my SeaDoo engine to rotax's max. rec clearance. Watercraft & aircraft are quite similar loads. Watercrafts are usually to often, full throttle runs, driving a prop that loads the engine down. Regarding 912 clearance, its probably in mm! The close tolerance Group K guys i believe are using ceramic coated pistons. I've seen a 582 with them as well & mechanic told me they were from Rotax?! They definitely use much closer limits. ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Hauck" <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> Sent: Monday, March 26, 2001 10:42 PM Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Group K on piston seizure > > > > Please be sure to read the first sentence. > > What are your thoughts? > > > > Steven Green > > > Steven and Gang: > > The Group K guys are running Ski Doo's and we are running > airplanes. > > I haven't been involved with 2 strokes in a long time, and I > forget a lot of information. But what ever Rotax called for > minimum piston to cylinder clearance, we always cut the > cylinder a few more thousandths for good measure. My own > thoughts are, when the clearance gets too close (we are > working with aluminum piston and cast iron cylinder liner) > eventually we will overcome that thin film of oil that > seperates the two. Once it is gone in one tiny spot, it > will probably spread quite quickly. > > I also believe that our aircraft engines are more continuous > duty that the Ski Doo's. Live a different life style. > > Eric Tucker shared with me that they have never had to > replace a 912 cylinder in 11 years and over 7,000 engines. > That was January 2000. Right, it is a 4 stroke, but of > significance is the 912 has no cast iron cylinder liner. > Piston and cylinder are aluminum. Piston to cylinder > clearance for a new engine is: > > ***I can not remember exactly and am too tired to go look it > up at the moment. Will post the official clearance when I > find it in the book. However, it is something like .001 and > tighter. > > Take care, > > john h > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 26, 2001
From: bob n <ronoy(at)shentel.net>
Subject: Re: Copper Tape
I do a lot of stained glass work. I'll look for copper foil wider than the 3/16 I have ever used..If I were making an antenna out of copper, I'd go to good roofing shop. Might be a bit thicker, but more stable. The stained glass foil is very thin. bn ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 26, 2001
From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: 912 Piston to Cyl Wall Clearance
Gang: Found my 912 Shop Manual. Here are the Piston to Cyl Wall Clearances: new mm (inch) wear limit mm (inch) 0,0 to 0,02 mm (0.0 to 0.001 inch) 0,10 mm (0,004 inch) That's tight, ain't it! john h ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 27, 2001
From: Ulflyer(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: Copper Tape
<> McMaster-Carr Supply Co. catalog lists a couple of variations - from 1/4" wide thru 3" wide in 18 yard rolls. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "HD Mitchell" <mitchmnd(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: Firefly Speed Data
Date: Mar 27, 2001
All speeds based on GPS-verified IAS, flying triangle pattern, certified ROC and UL grade Altimeter. Firefly SN007, 155 Lb pilot, enclosed cockpit, 5 gal fuel on board, with balistic chute, gross ~465 Lbs tested and confirmed on nearly perfect standard days. Engine off simulated by 3,000 RPM throttle setting. Top speed ~ 80 MPH, Clean stall: 37, 1/2 flaperons,35, full flaperons 33, Best rate of climb (@ 6,200 RPM)......55 MPH 1,000 FPM, Best angle of climb: Not tested, Best glide (distance) 45 MPH (straight ahead), Glide ratio: 8.8:1, Stall during 30 degree turn: not tested but recommended > 40 MPH, Stall during 45 degree turn: not tested but recommended > 45 MPH, Stall during 60 degree turn: not tested but recommended > 60 MPH Lost ~ 300' of Alt during 180 degree turn at 50 MPH simulated glide, Hope tis helps, Flame away !! Duane the plane in Tallahassee, FL, FF SN 007, 447, IVO, 98 Hrs ----- Original Message ----- From: John Richmond Sent: Monday, March 26, 2001 7:16 AM Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Firefly Speed Data Yeah, and the same numbers for a MkIII w/ 582 !?! --- Jack & Louise Hart wrote: > > Is there anyone out there that has accumulated best indicated speed > data > for a Firefly, such as, > > Climb > Best rate > Best angle > Glide > Best distance > Minimum sink? > > If so, what values did you get? > > > Jack & Louise Hart > jbhart(at)ldd.net > > John & Lynn Richmond :-) Palm Coast, Fl. Mk3, 582 Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail. = = = = Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jeremy Casey" <jrcasey(at)ldl.net>
Subject: Copper Tape
Date: Mar 27, 2001
I was in Lowe's last night and saw copper sheet there. Now I didn't check the sizes , but I did notice that they had a 24" X 24" in sheet (don't remember the thickness...) for about $74...yea kinda pricey. But you could make about a dozen antenna out of that and be real popular when you sent the others to all your ultralighting friends! Jeremy Casey jrcasey(at)ldl.net -----Original Message----- From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ulflyer(at)aol.com Sent: Tuesday, March 27, 2001 6:51 AM Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Copper Tape <> McMaster-Carr Supply Co. catalog lists a couple of variations - from 1/4" wide thru 3" wide in 18 yard rolls. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 27, 2001
From: "Mike Foley" <mfoley(at)Thermawave.com>
Subject: Re: Copper Tape
Try a stained glass supply shop Mike >>> deanbo(at)calweb.com 03/26/01 06:57PM >>> Adhesive backed copper foil tape is used for "Tiffany Style" stained glass work. I have not seen 1 inch wide tape but 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2 inch widths are readily available through stained glass shops. Who knows, they may even have 1 inch. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: SGreenpg(at)aol.com
Date: Mar 27, 2001
Subject: Copper tape
On the subject of antennas and ground planes, has anyone used "Spraylat series 559" for a ground plane. It is a metallic coating that can be painted on the inside of composite structures to provide a ground plane. It is recommended in the instructions with my ELT. Steven Green N58SG ________________________________________________________________________________
From: WGeorge737(at)aol.com
Date: Mar 27, 2001
Subject: Gear leg socket goop?
Removed the severely bent gear leg yesterday and will be installing new style steel ones. The old one came out OK, with a bit of tugging and twisting. I am concerned about a small amount of corrosion that might prevent the new ones being removed in the future, heaven forbid. What material might be used to apply to the socket/leg to facilitate installation and removal? Thanks, Bill G. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle)
Date: Mar 27, 2001
Subject: Missing Digest Messages Solved!!
I've solved the mystery of the missing Digest messages. Seems that I a "end of message" indicator. For some reason, Larry Bourne's messages always seem to have this sequence of characters between his message the to stop sending text at this point. modified and tested it this morning and this has fixed the problem. I will resend last night's Digest in a minute. Thanks to a couple of members who got me going done the Larry B. Best regards, Matt Dralle Email List Admin. -- Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551 925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft Great minds discuss ideas, Average minds discuss events, Small minds discuss people... ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: Gear leg socket goop?
Date: Mar 27, 2001
This may be a little inappropriate, Bill, but when I'm connecting aluminum wires to a steel junction block, I always smear it with "NoAlOx." It's an anti-corrosive lubricant designed for just that purpose, and you can find it at any electrical supply, Home Depot, or Ace Hardware. Never thought of it at the time, but now I wish I'd used it on Vamoose' legs. Lar. Larry Bourne Palm Springs, Ca. Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose" http://www.biglar.homestead.com/larry.html . ----- Original Message ----- From: <WGeorge737(at)aol.com> Sent: Tuesday, March 27, 2001 8:02 AM Subject: Kolb-List: Gear leg socket goop? > > Removed the severely bent gear leg yesterday and will be installing new style > steel ones. The old one came out OK, with a bit of tugging and twisting. I am > concerned about a small amount of corrosion that might prevent the new ones > being removed in the future, heaven forbid. > > What material might be used to apply to the socket/leg to facilitate > installation and removal? > > Thanks, > > Bill G. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Cavuontop(at)aol.com
Date: Mar 27, 2001
Subject: Re: Gear leg socket goop?
In a message dated 3/27/01 8:06:14 AM Pacific Standard Time, WGeorge737(at)aol.com writes: > What material might be used to apply to the socket/leg to facilitate > installation and removal? > Bill: It has been my experience that there is frequently welding residue inside the tubes where the gear legs are inserted that can cause all sorts of problems. Stick your fingers in and feel around. I used a fine rounded file to file down some of the boogers on the inside and that made a noticeable difference. I would apply a light coating of a light grease to the legs to keep the corosion down and make it easier to get them out in the future. Mark R. Sellers Kolb Twinstar Mark III N496BM ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: Missing Digest Messages Solved!!
Date: Mar 27, 2001
See that.............everybody's always blaming the Lar. Looks like you're a good detective, Clay. Now, the question to me is: What caused that ?? Why me ?? How to avoid it again in the future ?? For the rest of the group; a few days ago, Clay Stuart emailed me to say he thought I was the culprit messing up the Digest, cause I was always the last sender..........no emails after mine. I forwarded that email to Matt Dralle, with copy to Clay, to show him what I was doing. Looks like he was right. Good Work. Since I'm not on the Digest, I didn't even know there was a problem. Big Lar. Larry Bourne Palm Springs, Ca. Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose" http://www.biglar.homestead.com/larry.html . ----- Original Message ----- From: "Matt Dralle" <dralle(at)matronics.com> Sent: Tuesday, March 27, 2001 8:04 AM Subject: Kolb-List: Missing Digest Messages Solved!! > > > I've solved the mystery of the missing Digest messages. Seems that I > a "end of message" indicator. For some reason, Larry Bourne's messages > always seem to have this sequence of characters between his message the > to stop sending text at this point. > > modified and tested it this morning and this has fixed the problem. I > will resend last night's Digest in a minute. > > Thanks to a couple of members who got me going done the Larry B. > > Best regards, > > Matt Dralle > Email List Admin. > > > -- > > > Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551 > 925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email > http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft > > Great minds discuss ideas, > Average minds discuss events, > Small minds discuss people... > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Christopher John Armstrong" <Tophera(at)centurytel.net>
Subject: Re: Helmet with built in headset
Date: Mar 26, 2001
> Does anyone know of a helmet with built-in headset for use in a UL [not > "Comtronics"]? I want to install the Active Noise Reduction Modules from > "Headsets, Inc." but they won't fit in my Ultra-pro 2000 helmet. > > I tried on a military-style helmet with that ANL with my 503 running at > 4,000 rpm & the noise reduction was dramatic! I've got to have it! I would > consider not wearing a helmet but I need something to hang my flip-up visor > on [my plane is a Kolb Firestar I with the short windscreen]. Have tried > goggles and can't use them over my prescription glasses. > > Howard Shackleford linx sells a helmet that will fit over a standard headset. so if you get a anr headset you can just put the helmet on over the top. i think you could probably find som standard motorcycle helmets that are designed for intercoms on the big touring bikes that have enough room for the Headsets INc modules. I started looking into that but decided to go with a headset and a helmet that fit over the top so I could use the headset in ga planes alone. Topher ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 27, 2001
From: Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org>
Subject: Re: Gear leg socket goop?
When I was building my MKIII I noticed a little corrosion and scale inside the leg sockets in the areas of where it had been welded. I took a brake cylinder hone and honed out the socket in that area until the scale was gone. My personal preference is to spray a light coat of LPS-3 lubricant all over everything before I slide the legs up into place. I guess it wouldn't hurt to also smear a little Permatex Anti-Seize over the top of that, between the two, you'd think that future removal would have to be kinda' easy. Richard Pike MKIII N420P (420ldPoops) > >Removed the severely bent gear leg yesterday and will be installing new style >steel ones. The old one came out OK, with a bit of tugging and twisting. I am >concerned about a small amount of corrosion that might prevent the new ones >being removed in the future, heaven forbid. > >What material might be used to apply to the socket/leg to facilitate >installation and removal? > >Thanks, > >Bill G. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 27, 2001
From: JIMMY HANKINSON <jhankin(at)planters.net>
Subject: Gear box oil
When replacing or checking oil level in a "B" gear box on a 447 Rotax should the engine and gear box be level by raising the tail up to a level position? Jimmy Firefly #35 Southeast, Georgia ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: helmet / headset/ ANR
From: erich_weaver(at)urscorp.com
Date: Mar 27, 2001
03/27/2001 12:16:07 PM Howard and List: I got my helmet from David Clark; - its made to military specs for flight deck operations, and comes with an inner skull cap made of fabric. Its designed to accept headphones that protrude out either side. I used the David Clark ANR headsets as well, but Im pretty sure other headsets would work in the helmet as well. Cant remember prices, but not cheap. Works well though. Best buy is from Marv Golden Discount Sales on the web. Hope this helps. Erich Weaver erich_weaver(at)urscorp.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 27, 2001
From: bob n <ronoy(at)shentel.net>
Subject: Re: Gear leg socket goop?
Bill, The first thing that comes to my mind(?) for the gear-leg problem would be a smear of the copper-y anti seize grease used on GA (pardon the the word) sparkplugs. bn ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Do I need a static port?
From: erich_weaver(at)urscorp.com
Date: Mar 27, 2001
03/27/2001 12:25:03 PM I recently installed doors, but not the full enclosure with rear panels, on my Mrk III. Sure am glad to have that wind out of my face!. Now I see my airspeed indicator is way off (reads high). I would assume that I need a static port, unless its alternatively due to me accidentally dropping the instrument when I changed my panel a while back. No visual damage from dropping, and seems to work ok except for being high. Will adding doors but not a full enclosure produce the faulty reading or do I need to pay for my fumbling of the instrument? Erich Weaver erich_weaver(at)urscorp.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 26, 2000
From: Ole Noetnes <onoetnes(at)online.no>
Subject: Re: Helmet with built in headset
Christopher John Armstrong wrote: > > > > Does anyone know of a helmet with built-in headset for use in a UL [not > > "Comtronics"]? I want to install the Active Noise Reduction Modules from > > "Headsets, Inc." but they won't fit in my Ultra-pro 2000 helmet. > > > > I tried on a military-style helmet with that ANL with my 503 running at > > 4,000 rpm & the noise reduction was dramatic! I've got to have it! I > would > > consider not wearing a helmet but I need something to hang my flip-up > visor > > on [my plane is a Kolb Firestar I with the short windscreen]. Have tried > > goggles and can't use them over my prescription glasses. > > > > Howard Shackleford > > linx sells a helmet that will fit over a standard headset. so if you get a > anr headset you can just put the helmet on over the top. i think you could > probably find som standard motorcycle helmets that are designed for > intercoms on the big touring bikes that have enough room for the Headsets > INc modules. I started looking into that but decided to go with a headset > and a helmet that fit over the top so I could use the headset in ga planes > alone. > > Topher > yes, there are several brands that go over ga-headsets. david clark has one as well. i thing aircraft spruce carries them. ole ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: copper ground plane
From: erich_weaver(at)urscorp.com
Date: Mar 27, 2001
03/27/2001 12:30:01 PM Im sure some thin copper sheeting can be scrounged from a roofing contractor. But wouldnt some thin aluminum sheeting from the local hardware store work for a ground plane too? Erich Weaver erich_weaver(at)urscorp.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 27, 2001
From: Ben Ransom <bwr000(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: tank and BRS location options
> > > I can't see how you can get a big enough tank above your head in the > gap > seal unless it sticks out above a few inches. Haven't done the math > but it looks too small. To me, a bump on the top of such a tank would not be a problem. The main hurdle would be that the BRS cable connects to the top center tube. Therefore, a slot would have to be made in the tank, and of course, made such that a BRS deployment would not dislodge or break the tank. > If it doesn't interfere with aileron controls I > think I > would hang the BRS underneath the fuse tube at about the same spot. > Then I > would be able to use that space. If you made a tank to start at the > main > root tube and go down from there making it flush with the sides I > would > think that would be the best use of space. I can see getting at least > 8 gals > there and still having lots of room underneath. That would be nice too. It would allow easy inspection of the aileron linkage, and avoid the BRS cable problem mentioned above. However, it would probably be tougher to remove the tank for whatever reason may come up. Anyway, I'll look at that possibility too. > Get building, I miss your flying pictures!! > Scott Olendorf thanks Scott... and I miss taking them! :) I finally got around to welding the added fuselage cage tubes on yesterday. (adding braces to the bottom most longerons that go from the gear legs back to the rear fuselage tube H attachment). In spite of practicing a lot on scrap, getting in there and welding your own structure and trying to get the torch into tight spaces is hard work. I think I did okay but certainly no beauty prizes. Next I need to order material for a new left side lift strut and landing gear legs. Coming up next is wing alignment and repaint the cage where welded. After that, recovering. -Ben Ransom ps: Richard, thanks for the tank picture and note. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 27, 2001
From: Ben Ransom <bwr000(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Ultrastar
> to solve the prop clearance problem and the damage associated to the > frame with hard landings. I think the Slingshot gear is the answer > but > tying it in to the cage is going to recquire a bit of engineering . > Anybody have any experience with this gear on the Ultrastar. I think > the > weight(steel) is the one factor that might screw this > up....Alternative > landing gear legs...?... Another benefit could be a longer prop if Ed, You'd still need to dig for this a little if interested, but the cover of EAA Experimenter a couple years ago was a fantastic lookin Ultrastar, including longer (steel) legs. If I recall correctly, it was an Oshkosh award, so probably approximately an Oct issue. -Ben Ransom ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 27, 2001
From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Do I need a static port?
> Will adding doors but not a full enclosure produce the faulty reading or > do I need to pay for my fumbling of the instrument? > > Erich Weaver Erich and Gang: Through my own personal experience I would guess you now have lower static pressure inside the cockpit where ever you are picking up static pressure for your ASI, probably out the back of the instrument. Doubt if your ASI is unreliable. 1993, Sun & Fun, had the opportunity to spend about an hour with Steve Whitman, as he went over my MK III with a fine tooth comb. He claimed I had his landing gear on my airplane. I politely told him those were "Hauck" gear legs. :-) I had low ASI readings caused by a Kolsman pitot/static system (WWII vintage from a Stearman). Wanted my ASI to tell me what I was flying and not what it wanted to tell me. Asked Mr. Whitman what he did about ASI/Static readings to get them right in the ball park. He said he took the static reading right off the back of the ASI. Did not worry whether his ASI was indicating fast or slow. The main thing was to find out at what indicated airspeed the aircraft stalled. Did not matter at what altitude, it would always stall at that indicated airspeed. He also told me to cut the pitot tube at a 45 degree angle. Said it would give more constant readings across the scale as the air speed decreased, the angle of attack became greater, and stall speed was approached. Take care, john h ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 27, 2001
From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: copper ground plane
But wouldnt some thin aluminum sheeting from the local > hardware store work for a ground plane too? > > Erich Weaver Erich and Gang: That is what I use, scrape aluminum sheet, for both VHF comm and ELT. Both have proven to work great. Ground planes didn't cost me anything. I accidently hit the toggle switch with something to activate it, unbeknownst to me. I got a phone call from the Civil Air Patrol and a nasty followup letter because of my unwitting mistake. I remember being over at Gantt International Airport (my grass strip in Johnnie Gantt's cow pasture and front yard) working on my MK III, when a Cessna 172 came screaming down my airstrip about 10 feet off the ground. Did not realize it at the time, but that was the CAP looking for the dumb ass who was transmitting on 121.5. If you have an ELT on board, last thing to check before turning off the radio is dial in 121.5 to see if your ELT is not transmitting. I know we did this in Army helicopters and I think that was part of the check list in the 152 I had to fly to get a private ticket. In 1993, when my 582 locked up for the second time in about 15 minutes (yea, I learned the hard way), I landed about 30 feet in the above the ground. Tore up the MK III, bruised my butt, but I walked away from it. OOPS!!! I screwed up again. My last thought was the ELT. Of course it activated when I pan caked in. Got a phone call later that night from the FAA guy in Birmingham. Wanted to know about my crash in the farmers pasture about a mile north of Wetumpka Airport. ELT signal was picked up when it activated, FAA called, found my airplane and wanted to know why I had not reported the crash. I was very honest with him. Told him that this type incident/accident was quite common with ultralights and two stroke engines, whether they were registered experimental or not. That if I called them everytime something like this happened they would never have time to investigate more serious GA accidents. He bought it. Take care, john h ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 27, 2001
From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: tank and BRS location options
I finally got around to > welding the added fuselage cage tubes on yesterday. (adding braces to > the bottom most longerons that go from the gear legs back to the rear > fuselage tube H attachment). > -Ben Ransom Ben and Gang: Winter 1988, Brother Jim and I rebuilt, updated, reconfigured my old original Firestar. One of the improvements, at that time, was welding a tube around the rear of the fuselage, down one side and up the other, to tie all those long longerons together, thus greatly reducing the size of the tube bays. That one little tube greatly increased the strength of the fuselage. These longerons were also being pulled out of column by shrinking of the fabric. A hard landing and they got bent. This was Jim's original idea for improvement and I want to give him credit for that and many other innovations to improve Kolb aircraft. In February 1991, Jim was modifying and building the fuselage for my MK III, at the old Kolb Factory. Of course, at that time Jim added the tube around the rear portion of the fuselage. My serial number is M3-011. Kolb picked up on it then and began adding to newly fabricated fuselages. During that month I spent with Homer Kolb and the Kolb gang in Pennsylvania, building my Mark III fuselage, Jim incorporated many improvements to streamline fabrication of Kolb's aircraft parts, at the factory, and make improvements to the fuselages. While I am beating my Brother's drum and patting him on the back, I may as well add that the beautiful dual controls in my MK III, that were designed and fabricated in 1991, by Brother Jim, are now the standard dual controls for the MK III and MK III Extra. I might add that the engineering numbers were developed by our old flying and building buddy, Seth Mathews, who has gone on the the big airstrip in the sky. There is a lot of Hauck in a lot of the airplanes you guys are flying now, thanks to me crashing/breaking/wearing them out, and Brother Jim figuring out how to fix and improve them. We do not redesign Kolb aircraft, rather make a few improvements to keep me flying long enough to get there and get home. Right, I did not get there and get home last year, but the improvements have been made, heat treated, aligned, assembled, painted, and ready to install on the fuselage. :-) I believe we, me and Miss P'fer, will make it this year. I would not be able to do what I do, with these little airplanes, without the help of my big Brother Jim. Thanks Jim, john h ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Denny Rowe" <rowedl(at)alltel.net>
Subject: Re: Gear box oil
Date: Mar 27, 2001
Jimmy, Yes, your engine should be level when checking the gear oil. Denny ----- Original Message ----- From: JIMMY HANKINSON <jhankin(at)planters.net> Sent: Tuesday, March 27, 2001 12:16 PM Subject: Kolb-List: Gear box oil > > When replacing or checking oil level in a "B" gear box on a 447 Rotax > should the engine and gear box be level by raising the tail up to a > level position? > > Jimmy > Firefly #35 > Southeast, Georgia > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 27, 2001
From: GeoR38(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: Ultrastar
In a message dated Mon, 26 Mar 2001 7:22:58 PM Eastern Standard Time, David Hempy writes: I've recently joined this list and perused the archives, searching for anything about the Ultrastar. Pleased to find many references, all quite complimentary. You see, I just took in a homeless Ultrastar, and hope to restore it...possibly next winter. It is in pretty rough shape, but I can see a solid plane inside. I've posted a dozen or so pictures on the website below. The neglect is evident, but there does not appear to be any damage. I'll tear it all down, recover the wings, sand and paint the fuselage, and so on. I'm sure you guys will get tired of my questions before long. I'm interested in the discussion on extending the gear. The Cuyuna on it is probably serviceable, but I'll probably use a good 447 I've got in the attic. Or possibly a 503, but I'm going to try my darndest to keep this thing as light as possible. In any event, I would welcome a larger prop. Here's some pictures: http://www.bluegrassultralightgroup.org/members/hempy/ultrastar/ -dave David Hempy -- USUA Region 6 Representative (KY-IN-MI-OH) ASC Trike BFI #BKY56 -- www.BluegrassUltralightGroup.org -- EAA #456510 -- -- (c)2001,DBH Views expressed are solely my own, unless explicitly stated otherwise. Dave...nice pictures...looks almost as good as my firestar KX just the way it is...just teasin' GeoR38 Akron Ohio ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 27, 2001
From: Michael Ransom <mlransom(at)ucdavis.edu>
Subject: Re: tank and BRS location options
Hi, Mike Ransom here, out of "not even lurking" mode. (I filter--sorry!) I've got a couple cents worth of input on this thread: I wouldn't think the drag of having a "gap seal" tank with a "bump" on it would be significant. That engine up there on the Firestar has got to have the same flat-plate equivalent of the entire fuselage, for those of you with more complete enclosures. My guess would be that adding a nicely fared bump in front of the engine could easily cut the drag of the projecting engine in half. Ben's gone in that direction partially with his fiberglass engine cowling (http://mae.ucdavis.edu/~ransom/BensAlbum/build/a7cowling.html) but reported no noticable performance difference. I'm thinking that most of the drag actually comes from the fan, the muffler and the carb. I think it would be a great place except for one thing: any fuel leaks/overflows (or spills from lost gas caps) would blow straight back to the engine. Particularly if it was all enclosed in a shared fairing. I really don't like *any* of the options of fuel tanks in the cage area. Does anyone know what the conventional wisdom is on this, or the accident record for various configurations? I think this is one of those area where us ultralighters need to be particularly careful: ultralight design is not subject to any regulation or oversight (except from the "user" community), and there is the ever-present compromise in ultralights to squeze all possible performance out of the available 255 pounds. I would think that a very sturdy gas tank with good crashworthyness is essential, even at the cost of a few extra pounds. (Safety is what really bugs me about the 255 lb. limit.) What about mounting removable gas tanks near the root of each wing? I picture lifting them in and out from the bottom. Or, why not just drain and refill wing tanks as needed? It really wouldn't take that long. That would avoid the need for fuel line disconects and keep things simpler. If you wanted to fold wings with filled tanks, I suppose the vent would have to trail back from the max chord area to rear-of-the-tank zone, and an additional tube or manually operated vent attached to the rear edge of the tank. (Since the folded wing is pointing straight down for all but the UltraStar.) -Mike > >I can't see how you can get a big enough tank above your head in the gap >seal unless it sticks out above a few inches. Haven't done the math but it >looks too small. If it doesn't interfere with aileron controls I think I >would hang the BRS underneath the fuse tube at about the same spot. Then I >would be able to use that space. If you made a tank to start at the main >root tube and go down from there making it flush with the sides I would >think that would be the best use of space. I can see getting at least 8 gals >there and still having lots of room underneath. > >Get building, I miss your flying pictures!! > >Scott Olendorf > >----- Original Message ----- >From: "Ben Ransom" <bwr000(at)yahoo.com> >To: >Sent: Monday, March 26, 2001 1:31 PM >Subject: Kolb-List: tank and BRS location options > > >> >> Scott, >> I just checked out some of your web pics. I've had my BRS(4) installed >> in the same place as yours. Yes, a tight squeeze. Unfortunately, mine >> was easy to remove because I had to tear off all the fabric for cage >> repairs! In my rebuild, I've wanted to get either the gas tank or the >> BRS out of that fine baggage area. I do like keeping the BRS out of >> the rain and also inside for less drag. I specifically do not like >> sharing cabin space with a gas tank, and I've also wondered how smart >> it is to mount a gas tank and hoses right on top of a BRS rocket. >> >> I had been sure I would make tanks in the wings, but abandoned that >> idea. Vent tube ideas get really complicated when considering how to >> allow for the wings in folded position, and filling the tank while on >> the trailer also gets ugly. So, my current plan is to look again at >> making a custom tank between the wings -- I think Richard Pike did >> that. Ideally, such a tank would combine with whatever surfaces are >> needed to serve as gap seal, negating the need to put that on or off at >> each wing fold. Got to also consider safety parameters in having it >> mounted basically above the pilot, but I think it is fair to assume >> that in a crash landing bad enf to break the tank, nothing would be >> sitting in normal position anyway. >> -Ben Ransom ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 27, 2001
From: Michael Ransom <mlransom(at)ucdavis.edu>
Subject: Re: Ultrastar
Ed, You won't have to dig. I made contact with the designer/builder of this Ultrastar landing gear mod by way of this list, and he may have seen your said it was fine to post in a web page. He was very gracious and modest about it, but the quality is obvious. I don't seem to have it here at work, so will try to dig it up at home in the next couple of evenings and add it to my Ultrastar web pages. (http://128.120.215.11/~mike/FLYING/) The mod is basically nested CrMo tubing, welded and heat treated. Also, the complete mod mates to his highly modified cage, but the basics would be the same. Will cost a few extra pounds, but you won't be able to avoid that with a bigger prop and heavier engine. Weight (for same strength) probably goes up as a square of the gear length, but some springiness should reduce strength requirement some from that. I personally would like to come up with a sprung design of my own (for kicks?), but have elected to not try to avoid all prop breaks with an excessively tall design and instead stuck with a more expendable wooden prop. There were two times when I almost broke the prop: once when my standard gear broke (landed about 3 feet too high when I was first learning) and once when a greater-than-max crosswind landing forced me off into the furrows of a tomato field. Other than that, it really hasn't been a problem for me in my ~50 hours of flying the thing, tho I do generally consider it a weakness of the original design. The original design Ultrastar really teaches you to grease your landings! You may also want to consider putting the mains a touch further ahead of the CG if you want more braking power without noseover, but I prefer the better handling of the stock location. Definitely stick with stock if you don't add brakes. (Wish *I* had a big grass strip!) -Mike > > >> to solve the prop clearance problem and the damage associated to the >> frame with hard landings. I think the Slingshot gear is the answer >> but >> tying it in to the cage is going to recquire a bit of engineering . >> Anybody have any experience with this gear on the Ultrastar. I think >> the >> weight(steel) is the one factor that might screw this >> up....Alternative >> landing gear legs...?... Another benefit could be a longer prop if > >Ed, >You'd still need to dig for this a little if interested, but the cover >of EAA Experimenter a couple years ago was a fantastic lookin >Ultrastar, including longer (steel) legs. If I recall correctly, it >was an Oshkosh award, so probably approximately an Oct issue. >-Ben Ransom ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 27, 2001
From: Woody <duesouth(at)govital.net>
Subject: Re: Gear leg socket goop?
Just use ordinary grease. The important thing and this should be noted by new builders is to make sure the leg slides into the socket it goes in easily. If you force it in you will have trouble forcing it out after you bend it. If you hammer it in you will have a real problem getting it out. I do not want to say how I know. >What material might be used to apply to the socket/leg to facilitate >installation and removal? > >Thanks, > >Bill G. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "pablo lopez" <pablo_lopez21(at)hotmail.com>
Date: Mar 26, 2001
can some one direct me to us clasiffieds please ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Denny Rowe" <rowedl(at)alltel.net>
Subject: Re: tank and BRS location options
Date: Mar 27, 2001
John, I want to thank Jim and you for improving my aircraft. I have Mk-3 serial number 90, (Yes, it still is not finished) but soon will be, my airframe has the extra stiffener you speak of. When I am shrinking the fuselage fabric, I'll be thinking of you folks. When I am flying, I'll be thanking Homer and Dennis S for the performance. Keep up the good work, Denny ----- Original Message ----- From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> Sent: Tuesday, March 27, 2001 2:00 PM Subject: Re: Kolb-List: tank and BRS location options > > > I finally got around to > > welding the added fuselage cage tubes on yesterday. (adding braces to > > the bottom most longerons that go from the gear legs back to the rear > > fuselage tube H attachment). > > -Ben Ransom > > Ben and Gang: > > Winter 1988, Brother Jim and I rebuilt, updated, > reconfigured my old original Firestar. One of the > improvements, at that time, was welding a tube around the > rear of the fuselage, down one side and up the other, to tie > all those long longerons together, thus greatly reducing the > size of the tube bays. That one little tube greatly > increased the strength of the fuselage. These longerons > were also being pulled out of column by shrinking of the > fabric. A hard landing and they got bent. This was Jim's > original idea for improvement and I want to give him credit > for that and many other innovations to improve Kolb > aircraft. > > In February 1991, Jim was modifying and building the > fuselage for my MK III, at the old Kolb Factory. Of course, > at that time Jim added the tube around the rear portion of > the fuselage. My serial number is M3-011. Kolb picked up > on it then and began adding to newly fabricated fuselages. > > During that month I spent with Homer Kolb and the Kolb gang > in Pennsylvania, building my Mark III fuselage, Jim > incorporated many improvements to streamline fabrication of > Kolb's aircraft parts, at the factory, and make improvements > to the fuselages. > > While I am beating my Brother's drum and patting him on the > back, I may as well add that the beautiful dual controls in > my MK III, that were designed and fabricated in 1991, by > Brother Jim, are now the standard dual controls for the MK > III and MK III Extra. > I might add that the engineering numbers were developed by > our old flying and building buddy, Seth Mathews, who has > gone on the the big airstrip in the sky. > > There is a lot of Hauck in a lot of the airplanes you guys > are flying now, thanks to me crashing/breaking/wearing them > out, and Brother Jim figuring out how to fix and improve > them. We do not redesign Kolb aircraft, rather make a few > improvements to keep me flying long enough to get there and > get home. Right, I did not get there and get home last > year, but the improvements have been made, heat treated, > aligned, assembled, painted, and ready to install on the > fuselage. :-) I believe we, me and Miss P'fer, will make > it this year. > > I would not be able to do what I do, with these little > airplanes, without the help of my big Brother Jim. > > Thanks Jim, > > john h > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 27, 2001
From: b young <byoung(at)brigham.net>
"kolb-list(at)matronics.com"
Subject: coper foil
"Ian Heritch" Subject: Kolb-List: Copper Tape Anyone have a clue as to where I can buy 1" copper tape, or thin copper foil I can cut into 1" strips? I am going to use this stuff to make a ground plane for my com antenna. Ian Heritch Slingshot 912, San Antonio my original thought was to get 1/2 inch wide copper foil and make my antenna..... best i could find at the time was 1/4 inch...... so i build a dipole out of coax..... the swr match is quite good the url is a picture before installation http://www.brigham.net/~byoung/antenna.html i have visited with a plane over 120 miles with a sporties 300 radio (1 watt carrier) was told had good signal strength but had background noise..... considering how noisy the kolb is i felt good with that report. fyi for your info the 1 inch should give you a broader bandwidth than what i put together (lower swr on the fringes of the band) but i have been happy with mine. don't only use the foil for the ground plane.... use it also for the radiator of the antenna. if you would like a photo of my instalation let me know boyd ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Richard Swiderski" <swiderskir(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Ultrastar
Date: Mar 27, 2001
Ed, Regarding below post, I forgot to mention that I cut out a portion of the top fuselage longeron which raised the nose about 11". But all of this is of no use to you if you are putting on a FireStar cage. I'm sorry about that! Also, Mikes comment about moving wheels forward is exactly what I did & it increased my breaking 200%. Thanks Mike. Mikes post re: KZ's setup, I believe is definitely the finest choice. The best US flaperon setup (even better than mine!) was on an award winning light green US with all the mods we've been discussing, just don't know his name. I saw it at Sun&Fun ----- Original Message ----- From: "Richard Swiderski" <swiderskir(at)earthlink.net> Sent: Monday, March 26, 2001 6:01 PM Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Ultrastar > > Ed, > > Regarding longer legs, fiberglass will be heaviest of all reasonable > options. If you use SS or other "off the shelf legs" you will have to build > a hefty box structure which is additional weight. My research led me to > believe the lightest method is to use the existing attachments (or slightly > modify them) & use large diameter tubing of relitively thin wall thickness > (0.32"). If memory serves me right, the front tube was 1 1/8" or 1 1/4" & > the rear tube was 7/8". I used a nearly solid 5/8" axle gussetted to the > two tubes, but a heavy wall 3/4" might be better. The 2 legs had a simple X > assembly holding them together. The X had a sliding mechanism that allowed > it to expand. Bungie wraps held the slide together & a 3/16" bolt acted as > a stop if the bungie overextended. It was light & strong & took tremendous > abuse. > > Regarding carb heat: There is a product to unthaw frozen pipes. It > is simply a flat wire with a high resistance (nicrome?). You just wrapped > around the pipe & plugged it in! You could leave it on to prevent frezzing. > Could you not just wrap your carbs with the stuff & let your A/C current > keep the carbs snug? > > > .....I now have a couple more > > for the list. I want to modify the ultrastar with a longer flexible gear > > to solve the prop clearance problem and the damage associated to the > > frame with hard landings. I think the Slingshot gear is the answer but > > tying it in to the cage is going to recquire a bit of engineering . > I think the > > weight(steel) is the one factor that might screw this up....Alternative > > landing gear legs...?... Another benefit could be a longer prop if the > > frame was deepened at the same time. > > > The other question is in regards to an electric > > carburetor heat unit that runs off the lighting coil that is available > > for the 36mm Bing . Is there a similar unit for a 32mm MIkuni ? Or is > > there another way to heat the Mikuni mounted on a Cayuna UL1102 ?..... > > ...Ed Steuber > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dennis Souder" <flykolb(at)epix.net>
Subject: Ultrastar
Date: Mar 27, 2001
Old Kolb had done an adaptor for the US that allowed the use of FireStar gear legs. It was a self-contained welded assembly which bolted to the gear attach points under the US frame. The 1-1/4" OD 4130 tube housing paralleled the bottom cage tube and then the part the gear legs inserted into was welded on at the appropriate angle on both ends. A short heavy wall tube was weled on each side that extended forward and attached to the front gear leg attach point - this took up the torsion loads. It was an easy retro fit - of course now you would need to make it yourself. If your cage is already damaged then you could make it an integral part of the frame. Forget the SS legs they are much stronger (and heavier) than needed for the US. Try to keep it light, adding weight changes its personality. Another alternative would be larger balloon tires run at low pressure on the standard gear. Dennis -----Original Message----- From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Richard Swiderski Sent: Tuesday, March 27, 2001 9:55 PM Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Ultrastar Ed, Regarding below post, I forgot to mention that I cut out a portion of the top fuselage longeron which raised the nose about 11". But all of this is of no use to you if you are putting on a FireStar cage. I'm sorry about that! Also, Mikes comment about moving wheels forward is exactly what I did & it increased my breaking 200%. Thanks Mike. Mikes post re: KZ's setup, I believe is definitely the finest choice. The best US flaperon setup (even better than mine!) was on an award winning light green US with all the mods we've been discussing, just don't know his name. I saw it at Sun&Fun ----- Original Message ----- From: "Richard Swiderski" <swiderskir(at)earthlink.net> Sent: Monday, March 26, 2001 6:01 PM Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Ultrastar > > Ed, > > Regarding longer legs, fiberglass will be heaviest of all reasonable > options. If you use SS or other "off the shelf legs" you will have to build > a hefty box structure which is additional weight. My research led me to > believe the lightest method is to use the existing attachments (or slightly > modify them) & use large diameter tubing of relitively thin wall thickness > (0.32"). If memory serves me right, the front tube was 1 1/8" or 1 1/4" & > the rear tube was 7/8". I used a nearly solid 5/8" axle gussetted to the > two tubes, but a heavy wall 3/4" might be better. The 2 legs had a simple X > assembly holding them together. The X had a sliding mechanism that allowed > it to expand. Bungie wraps held the slide together & a 3/16" bolt acted as > a stop if the bungie overextended. It was light & strong & took tremendous > abuse. > > Regarding carb heat: There is a product to unthaw frozen pipes. It > is simply a flat wire with a high resistance (nicrome?). You just wrapped > around the pipe & plugged it in! You could leave it on to prevent frezzing. > Could you not just wrap your carbs with the stuff & let your A/C current > keep the carbs snug? > > > .....I now have a couple more > > for the list. I want to modify the ultrastar with a longer flexible gear > > to solve the prop clearance problem and the damage associated to the > > frame with hard landings. I think the Slingshot gear is the answer but > > tying it in to the cage is going to recquire a bit of engineering . > I think the > > weight(steel) is the one factor that might screw this up....Alternative > > landing gear legs...?... Another benefit could be a longer prop if the > > frame was deepened at the same time. > > > The other question is in regards to an electric > > carburetor heat unit that runs off the lighting coil that is available > > for the 36mm Bing . Is there a similar unit for a 32mm MIkuni ? Or is > > there another way to heat the Mikuni mounted on a Cayuna UL1102 ?..... > > ...Ed Steuber > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: copper ground plane
Date: Mar 27, 2001
Yah, the aluminum should work, and I did an experiment on that idea last year. Now, with the new antenna design by Boyd Young, I won't need it. Anyway, FWIW, I took a sheet of heavy aluminum foil, and a small - about 1" x 1" piece of .025 aluminum with the edges rounded, and polished smooth. I have some of that fluxless aluminum solder they sell at air and boat shows........where they do the demonstration of punching a hole in a beer can, and welding it up. Stuff's impressive, and REALLY does work. So........melted a gob of solder onto the .025, then put it solder side down on the foil. GENTLY heat the piece with a propane torch, till the solder flows, and get the heat off. Now, you've got a sheet of foil, with a mounting tab welded onto it. It would be simple to spray some of that 3M upholstery stick-um from a spray can onto your nose cone inside, or where-ever. From the research I've done, I have no doubt this would be a workable solution, but the bipole antenna of Boyd's works so good, and is so simple, I don't see the need for it. Scientific Lar. Larry Bourne Palm Springs, Ca. Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose" http://www.biglar.homestead.com/larry.html . ----- Original Message ----- From: <erich_weaver(at)urscorp.com> Sent: Tuesday, March 27, 2001 9:31 AM Subject: Kolb-List: Re: copper ground plane > > > Im sure some thin copper sheeting can be scrounged from a roofing > contractor. But wouldnt some thin aluminum sheeting from the local > hardware store work for a ground plane too? > > Erich Weaver > erich_weaver(at)urscorp.com > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 27, 2001
From: Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org>
Subject: Re: Do I need a static port?
Static port will solve the problem. Richard Pike MKIII N420P (420ldPoops) > > >I recently installed doors, but not the full enclosure with rear panels, on >my Mrk III. Sure am glad to have that wind out of my face!. Now I see my >airspeed indicator is way off (reads high). I would assume that I need a >static port, unless its alternatively due to me accidentally dropping the >instrument when I changed my panel a while back. No visual damage from >dropping, and seems to work ok except for being high. > >Will adding doors but not a full enclosure produce the faulty reading or >do I need to pay for my fumbling of the instrument? > > >Erich Weaver >erich_weaver(at)urscorp.com > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)peoplepc.com>
, , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,
Subject: Version 2.0 Experimental Panel Builder
Date: Mar 28, 2001
Version 2.0 of the Experimental Panel Builder is up and running. The response to Version 1.0 was almost overwhelming and we received many requests for additional panels and instruments. We've tried to accommodate as many as possible but if we've missed something please let us know by clicking on the "Request New Panels" or "Request New Instruments" link. After we published version 1.0 fellow RV List member, RV-8 Builder (soon to be RV-7 builder) and web master extraordinaire, Jared Boone (Portland, OR) offered us some suggestions on how we could make things work a little better. I had some discussions with Jared via email and even tossed back a brewski or two with him on a recent visit to Portland. Jared took time out of his busy work schedule (guess what he does for a living) and helped turn out the version of code that you see here. Truly remarkable and Bill and I owe him a lot of thanks. So what's new? First, you can now save your work. Yes, that's right. After creating a panel, all you have to do is log out or go to another web page. The next time you log in you're panel will still be right there were you left off. Neat. Space saving organization. Drop down menu's allow you to select the panel you're interested and the category of instruments your interested in working on. This saves space and makes creating panels easier. Duplicate items. Now you can drag as many items onto the panel as you like. Just keep dragging them up there. You want lots of circuit breaker and switches. Just keep dragging them up. If you don't like an instrument then just drag it off the panel and it goes away. Don't like any of your work and want to start over? Just hit the reset button. Because of all the code changes, the time it takes for the initial page to load has been greatly reduced because it doesn't have to load all the images at once. After the last version was published we received a ton or requests for additional panels and equipment. This is where Bill Vondane came to the rescue. Bill jumped into action and developed no less than 20, yes 20, new panels and added many more instruments. After Jared modified the code to make the new changes possible, Bill had to add all the new data, and modify things to get it published. Bill also created the user interface and "Tips" page to help makes things a little clearer. Bill and Jared have graciously donated LOTS of time and effort to bring this tool to it's present state. Remember, these guys both have planes to build and busy jobs and families to take care of. Enjoy the updated version and let us know what you think. Alas, there is a downside. For all those Microsoft haters out there, this new version is even LESS Netscape friendly than the pervious version. At this time, due to the methods used to create some of the features, ONLY Internet Explore 5.5 can be used to access the new features. Jared is working on making it compatible with earlier versions of Internet Explorer so until that time, the earlier version 1.0 is still available to use. We're talking about developing some techniques that will allow ALL browsers to work but that's still a ways off as time and energy permits. Check it out. http://sonexlinks.com/panelbuilder/ or link to it from my page http://bmnellis.com or Bills page http://vondane.com/rv8a Guess what? It's still free! What a country. Mike Nellis Stinson 108-2 N9666K RV-6 N699BM (reserved) Plainfield, IL (LOT) http://bmnellis.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Denny Rowe" <rowedl(at)alltel.net>
Subject: Re: Ultrastar
Date: Mar 28, 2001
OK, guys, We have been through this before, the fellow with the light green US is from Ohio, and his name escapes me once again. I met him at Tappan Lake a while back, a real craftsman. Come on, somebody on the list remembers his name. His name is on the tip of my - "wait a minute" ( Tchanz ) or somthing close to that, I think his first name is maybe Tom. Try that in the archive search engine. His US is so nice, he should be a household name on this list. I don't know why I can never remember his name. IF I find my old Experimenter magazine with his plane, I'll have my buddy scan the photos so I can send them to interested US builders. Take Care, Denny ----- Original Message ----- From: Richard Swiderski <swiderskir(at)earthlink.net> Sent: Tuesday, March 27, 2001 9:54 PM Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Ultrastar > > Ed, > > Regarding below post, I forgot to mention that I cut out a portion of > the top fuselage longeron which raised the nose about 11". But all of this > is of no use to you if you are putting on a FireStar cage. I'm sorry about > that! Also, Mikes comment about moving wheels forward is exactly what I did > & it increased my breaking 200%. Thanks Mike. > > Mikes post re: KZ's setup, I believe is definitely the finest choice. > The best US flaperon setup (even better than mine!) was on an award winning > light green US with all the mods we've been discussing, just don't know his > name. I saw it at Sun&Fun > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Richard Swiderski" <swiderskir(at)earthlink.net> > To: > Sent: Monday, March 26, 2001 6:01 PM > Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Ultrastar > > > > > > > Ed, > > > > Regarding longer legs, fiberglass will be heaviest of all reasonable > > options. If you use SS or other "off the shelf legs" you will have to > build > > a hefty box structure which is additional weight. My research led me to > > believe the lightest method is to use the existing attachments (or > slightly > > modify them) & use large diameter tubing of relitively thin wall thickness > > (0.32"). If memory serves me right, the front tube was 1 1/8" or 1 1/4" & > > the rear tube was 7/8". I used a nearly solid 5/8" axle gussetted to the > > two tubes, but a heavy wall 3/4" might be better. The 2 legs had a simple > X > > assembly holding them together. The X had a sliding mechanism that > allowed > > it to expand. Bungie wraps held the slide together & a 3/16" bolt acted > as > > a stop if the bungie overextended. It was light & strong & took > tremendous > > abuse. > > > > Regarding carb heat: There is a product to unthaw frozen pipes. It > > is simply a flat wire with a high resistance (nicrome?). You just wrapped > > around the pipe & plugged it in! You could leave it on to prevent > frezzing. > > Could you not just wrap your carbs with the stuff & let your A/C current > > keep the carbs snug? > > > > > > .....I now have a couple more > > > for the list. I want to modify the ultrastar with a longer flexible gear > > > to solve the prop clearance problem and the damage associated to the > > > frame with hard landings. I think the Slingshot gear is the answer but > > > tying it in to the cage is going to recquire a bit of engineering . > > I think the > > > weight(steel) is the one factor that might screw this up....Alternative > > > landing gear legs...?... Another benefit could be a longer prop if the > > > frame was deepened at the same time. > > > > > > The other question is in regards to an electric > > > carburetor heat unit that runs off the lighting coil that is available > > > for the 36mm Bing . Is there a similar unit for a 32mm MIkuni ? Or is > > > there another way to heat the Mikuni mounted on a Cayuna UL1102 ?..... > > > > ...Ed Steuber > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rayfield, Bill" <brayfield(at)kcc.com>
Subject: Ultrastar
Date: Mar 28, 2001
FYI, we have this gear on our Ultrastar, and though we haven't flown it yet, so far we are pleased with the setup. We have a 2SI 430 with a 56" IVO with good ground clearance (this is a good bit longer than the standard prop). If possible, I'll try to take some pics for those interested. Bill Rayfield Kimberly-Clark, Corp. Nonwovens Engineering phone: 770-587-8371 email: brayfield(at)kcc.com fax: 770-587-7240 -----Original Message----- From: Dennis Souder [mailto:flykolb(at)epix.net] Sent: Tuesday, March 27, 2001 10:50 PM Subject: RE: Kolb-List: Ultrastar Old Kolb had done an adaptor for the US that allowed the use of FireStar gear legs. It was a self-contained welded assembly which bolted to the gear attach points under the US frame. The 1-1/4" OD 4130 tube housing paralleled the bottom cage tube and then the part the gear legs inserted into was welded on at the appropriate angle on both ends. A short heavy wall tube was weled on each side that extended forward and attached to the front gear leg attach point - this took up the torsion loads. It was an easy retro fit - of course now you would need to make it yourself. If your cage is already damaged then you could make it an integral part of the frame. Forget the SS legs they are much stronger (and heavier) than needed for the US. Try to keep it light, adding weight changes its personality. Another alternative would be larger balloon tires run at low pressure on the standard gear. Dennis -----Original Message----- From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Richard Swiderski Sent: Tuesday, March 27, 2001 9:55 PM Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Ultrastar Ed, Regarding below post, I forgot to mention that I cut out a portion of the top fuselage longeron which raised the nose about 11". But all of this is of no use to you if you are putting on a FireStar cage. I'm sorry about that! Also, Mikes comment about moving wheels forward is exactly what I did & it increased my breaking 200%. Thanks Mike. Mikes post re: KZ's setup, I believe is definitely the finest choice. The best US flaperon setup (even better than mine!) was on an award winning light green US with all the mods we've been discussing, just don't know his name. I saw it at Sun&Fun ----- Original Message ----- From: "Richard Swiderski" <swiderskir(at)earthlink.net> Sent: Monday, March 26, 2001 6:01 PM Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Ultrastar > > Ed, > > Regarding longer legs, fiberglass will be heaviest of all reasonable > options. If you use SS or other "off the shelf legs" you will have to build > a hefty box structure which is additional weight. My research led me to > believe the lightest method is to use the existing attachments (or slightly > modify them) & use large diameter tubing of relitively thin wall thickness > (0.32"). If memory serves me right, the front tube was 1 1/8" or 1 1/4" & > the rear tube was 7/8". I used a nearly solid 5/8" axle gussetted to the > two tubes, but a heavy wall 3/4" might be better. The 2 legs had a simple X > assembly holding them together. The X had a sliding mechanism that allowed > it to expand. Bungie wraps held the slide together & a 3/16" bolt acted as > a stop if the bungie overextended. It was light & strong & took tremendous > abuse. > > Regarding carb heat: There is a product to unthaw frozen pipes. It > is simply a flat wire with a high resistance (nicrome?). You just wrapped > around the pipe & plugged it in! You could leave it on to prevent frezzing. > Could you not just wrap your carbs with the stuff & let your A/C current > keep the carbs snug? > > > .....I now have a couple more > > for the list. I want to modify the ultrastar with a longer flexible gear > > to solve the prop clearance problem and the damage associated to the > > frame with hard landings. I think the Slingshot gear is the answer but > > tying it in to the cage is going to recquire a bit of engineering . > I think the > > weight(steel) is the one factor that might screw this up....Alternative > > landing gear legs...?... Another benefit could be a longer prop if the > > frame was deepened at the same time. > > > The other question is in regards to an electric > > carburetor heat unit that runs off the lighting coil that is available > > for the 36mm Bing . Is there a similar unit for a 32mm MIkuni ? Or is > > there another way to heat the Mikuni mounted on a Cayuna UL1102 ?..... > > ...Ed Steuber > > This e-mail is intended for the use of the addressee(s) only and may contain privileged, confidential, or proprietary information that is exempt from disclosure under law. If you have received this message in error, please inform us promptly by reply e-mail, then delete the e-mail and destroy any printed copy. Thank you. ============================================================================== ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 28, 2001
From: John Richmond <twoschmoops(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: tank and BRS location options
Gentleman John, It's great to know one of our "Fathers" of ultralighting is a gentleman like you. Thanks for all the advice with humility you share. You remind me of our cave diving "Father", a guy named Sheck Exley. He went on to his big cave in the sky in 94, about a week before his 45th b'day, attempting a world 1000' depth record in a cave in Mexico. (927' reached) He had always been the premier caver, humble as heck too, and always the one we idolized. He too pushed that envelope, made the boo-boos, and redefined much of the diving equipment that is standard today. Although early in my u/l career, I can directly relate to improvements in technology that were learned the hard ways by great pioneers. You, and flyers like you, are appreciated about a million times more than you are told. Like Sheck, you're making the molds for better equipment that will help untold numbers of us followers. Thanks again for always helping and respecting the nubiles. --- John Hauck wrote: > > > I finally got around to > > welding the added fuselage cage tubes on yesterday. (adding braces > to > > the bottom most longerons that go from the gear legs back to the > rear > > fuselage tube H attachment). > > -Ben Ransom > > Ben and Gang: > > Winter 1988, Brother Jim and I rebuilt, updated, > reconfigured my old original Firestar. One of the > improvements, at that time, was welding a tube around the > rear of the fuselage, down one side and up the other, to tie > all those long longerons together, thus greatly reducing the > size of the tube bays. That one little tube greatly > increased the strength of the fuselage. These longerons > were also being pulled out of column by shrinking of the > fabric. A hard landing and they got bent. This was Jim's > original idea for improvement and I want to give him credit > for that and many other innovations to improve Kolb > aircraft. > > In February 1991, Jim was modifying and building the > fuselage for my MK III, at the old Kolb Factory. Of course, > at that time Jim added the tube around the rear portion of > the fuselage. My serial number is M3-011. Kolb picked up > on it then and began adding to newly fabricated fuselages. > > During that month I spent with Homer Kolb and the Kolb gang > in Pennsylvania, building my Mark III fuselage, Jim > incorporated many improvements to streamline fabrication of > Kolb's aircraft parts, at the factory, and make improvements > to the fuselages. > > While I am beating my Brother's drum and patting him on the > back, I may as well add that the beautiful dual controls in > my MK III, that were designed and fabricated in 1991, by > Brother Jim, are now the standard dual controls for the MK > III and MK III Extra. > I might add that the engineering numbers were developed by > our old flying and building buddy, Seth Mathews, who has > gone on the the big airstrip in the sky. > > There is a lot of Hauck in a lot of the airplanes you guys > are flying now, thanks to me crashing/breaking/wearing them > out, and Brother Jim figuring out how to fix and improve > them. We do not redesign Kolb aircraft, rather make a few > improvements to keep me flying long enough to get there and > get home. Right, I did not get there and get home last > year, but the improvements have been made, heat treated, > aligned, assembled, painted, and ready to install on the > fuselage. :-) I believe we, me and Miss P'fer, will make > it this year. > > I would not be able to do what I do, with these little > airplanes, without the help of my big Brother Jim. > > Thanks Jim, > > john h > > > > > > ===== John & Lynn Richmond :-) Palm Coast, Fl. Mk3, 582 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rayfield, Bill" <brayfield(at)kcc.com>
Subject: Ultrastar
Date: Mar 28, 2001
That's right Denny, Tom Tschantz was his name. I spoke with him a few years ago before we bought our US. He had all kinds of mods: hand operated hyd. brakes flaperons double ribs for higher strength (he actually did some light aerobatics with it) stock design LG, but much taller with big tires to allow for a Rotax 503 with a three-blade prop! he also had a camera mount, and the lower portion of the rudder was extended (as was the tailwheel) downward He sold the plane several years ago, but said it would take off and go straight up, and the flaperons (50 degrees of travel) would bring himin really short. That's all I can remember for now. Bill Rayfield Kimberly-Clark, Corp. Nonwovens Engineering phone: 770-587-8371 email: brayfield(at)kcc.com fax: 770-587-7240 -----Original Message----- From: Denny Rowe [mailto:rowedl(at)alltel.net] Sent: Wednesday, March 28, 2001 7:18 AM Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Ultrastar OK, guys, We have been through this before, the fellow with the light green US is from Ohio, and his name escapes me once again. I met him at Tappan Lake a while back, a real craftsman. Come on, somebody on the list remembers his name. His name is on the tip of my - "wait a minute" ( Tchanz ) or somthing close to that, I think his first name is maybe Tom. Try that in the archive search engine. His US is so nice, he should be a household name on this list. I don't know why I can never remember his name. IF I find my old Experimenter magazine with his plane, I'll have my buddy scan the photos so I can send them to interested US builders. Take Care, Denny ----- Original Message ----- From: Richard Swiderski <swiderskir(at)earthlink.net> Sent: Tuesday, March 27, 2001 9:54 PM Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Ultrastar > > Ed, > > Regarding below post, I forgot to mention that I cut out a portion of > the top fuselage longeron which raised the nose about 11". But all of this > is of no use to you if you are putting on a FireStar cage. I'm sorry about > that! Also, Mikes comment about moving wheels forward is exactly what I did > & it increased my breaking 200%. Thanks Mike. > > Mikes post re: KZ's setup, I believe is definitely the finest choice. > The best US flaperon setup (even better than mine!) was on an award winning > light green US with all the mods we've been discussing, just don't know his > name. I saw it at Sun&Fun > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Richard Swiderski" <swiderskir(at)earthlink.net> > To: > Sent: Monday, March 26, 2001 6:01 PM > Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Ultrastar > > > > > > > Ed, > > > > Regarding longer legs, fiberglass will be heaviest of all reasonable > > options. If you use SS or other "off the shelf legs" you will have to > build > > a hefty box structure which is additional weight. My research led me to > > believe the lightest method is to use the existing attachments (or > slightly > > modify them) & use large diameter tubing of relitively thin wall thickness > > (0.32"). If memory serves me right, the front tube was 1 1/8" or 1 1/4" & > > the rear tube was 7/8". I used a nearly solid 5/8" axle gussetted to the > > two tubes, but a heavy wall 3/4" might be better. The 2 legs had a simple > X > > assembly holding them together. The X had a sliding mechanism that > allowed > > it to expand. Bungie wraps held the slide together & a 3/16" bolt acted > as > > a stop if the bungie overextended. It was light & strong & took > tremendous > > abuse. > > > > Regarding carb heat: There is a product to unthaw frozen pipes. It > > is simply a flat wire with a high resistance (nicrome?). You just wrapped > > around the pipe & plugged it in! You could leave it on to prevent > frezzing. > > Could you not just wrap your carbs with the stuff & let your A/C current > > keep the carbs snug? > > > > > > .....I now have a couple more > > > for the list. I want to modify the ultrastar with a longer flexible gear > > > to solve the prop clearance problem and the damage associated to the > > > frame with hard landings. I think the Slingshot gear is the answer but > > > tying it in to the cage is going to recquire a bit of engineering . > > I think the > > > weight(steel) is the one factor that might screw this up....Alternative > > > landing gear legs...?... Another benefit could be a longer prop if the > > > frame was deepened at the same time. > > > > > > The other question is in regards to an electric > > > carburetor heat unit that runs off the lighting coil that is available > > > for the 36mm Bing . Is there a similar unit for a 32mm MIkuni ? Or is > > > there another way to heat the Mikuni mounted on a Cayuna UL1102 ?..... > > > > ...Ed Steuber > > > > > > This e-mail is intended for the use of the addressee(s) only and may contain privileged, confidential, or proprietary information that is exempt from disclosure under law. If you have received this message in error, please inform us promptly by reply e-mail, then delete the e-mail and destroy any printed copy. Thank you. ============================================================================== ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 28, 2001
Subject: Re: Kolb-List Digest: 36 Msgs - 03/27/01
From: Scott and Pam Trask <PTrask(at)diisd.org>
on 3/28/01 1:50 AM, Kolb-List Digest Server at kolb-list-digest(at)matronics.com wrote: > > ______________________________________________________________________________ > __ > From: bob n <ronoy(at)shentel.net> > Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Gear leg socket goop? > > > Bill, > > The first thing that comes to my mind(?) for the gear-leg problem would > be a smear of the copper-y anti seize grease used on GA (pardon the the > word) sparkplugs. > > bn > > > > > > > > > ______________________________________________________________________________ > __ Bill Yes I use anti seize as while works great. It takes about a week to wash it off your hands. Scott Trask IMT MI MK111 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "deckard" <deckard(at)sheltonbbs.com>
Subject: Reelfoot Lake Fly In West TN
Date: Mar 28, 2001
There is a ultralight gathering at Reelfoot Lake State park in W. TN on June 23-24. If anyone is in the area it will be a nice fly in. Info on the following two pages. There's camping, a swimming pool, restaurant, and cabins at the airfield. http://www.8tn8.com/newsevents.html http://www.semoairsports.com Jerry Deckard ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Bklebon4(at)cs.com
Date: Mar 28, 2001
Subject: Re: Gear box oil
Yes! ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 28, 2001
From: John Richmond <twoschmoops(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Firefly Speed Data
Good numbers, any on a MkIII w/ 582 ?? --- HD Mitchell wrote: > > All speeds based on GPS-verified IAS, flying triangle pattern, > certified > ROC and UL grade Altimeter. > Firefly SN007, 155 Lb pilot, enclosed cockpit, 5 gal fuel on board, > with > balistic chute, gross ~465 Lbs tested and confirmed on nearly perfect > sta> ndard days. > Engine off simulated by 3,000 RPM throttle setting. > > Top speed ~ 80 MPH, > Clean stall: 37, 1/2 flaperons,35, full flaperons 33, > Best rate of climb (@ 6,200 RPM)......55 MPH 1,000 FPM, > Best angle of climb: Not tested, > Best glide (distance) 45 MPH (straight ahead), Glide ratio: 8.8:1, > Stall during 30 degree turn: not tested but recommended > 40 MPH, > Stall during 45 degree turn: not tested but recommended > 45 MPH, > Stall during 60 degree turn: not tested but recommended > 60 MPH > Lost ~ 300' of Alt during 180 degree turn at 50 MPH simulated glide, > > Hope tis helps, Flame away !! > > Duane the plane in Tallahassee, FL, FF SN 007, 447, IVO, 98 Hrs > > ===== John & Lynn Richmond :-) Palm Coast, Fl. Mk3, 582 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Dysinger" <larrykdysinger(at)hotmail.com>
AeroElectric-List(at)matronics.com, Aviation-List(at)matronics.com, Avionics-List(at)matronics.com, EZ-List(at)matronics.com, Glasair-List(at)matronics.com, Homebuilt-List(at)matronics.com, Kolb-List(at)matronics.com, Lancair-List(at)matronics.com, Pitts-List(at)matronics.com, Rocket-List(at)matronics.com, RVCanada-List(at)matronics.com, RVEurope-List(at)matronics.com, Sonerai-List(at)matronics.com, Tailwind-List(at)matronics.com, Zenith-List(at)matronics.com, BostonRVBuilders(at)yahoogroups.com, oregon-rvlist(at)yahoogroups.com, RV-6and6A(at)yahoogroups.com, SEFlaRVbuilders(at)yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [rv8list] Version 2.0 Experimental Panel Builder
Date: Mar 28, 2001
Mike, That is great work. And thanks for sharing it with your fellow listers. Larry RV-8QB - Fuselage From: "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)peoplepc.com> , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , Subject: [rv8list] Version 2.0 Experimental Panel Builder Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 00:00:08 -0600 Version 2.0 of the Experimental Panel Builder is up and running. The response to Version 1.0 was almost overwhelming and we received many requests for additional panels and instruments. We've tried to accommodate as many as possible but if we've missed something please let us know by clicking on the "Request New Panels" or "Request New Instruments" link. After we published version 1.0 fellow RV List member, RV-8 Builder (soon to be RV-7 builder) and web master extraordinaire, Jared Boone (Portland, OR) offered us some suggestions on how we could make things work a little better. I had some discussions with Jared via email and even tossed back a brewski or two with him on a recent visit to Portland. Jared took time out of his busy work schedule (guess what he does for a living) and helped turn out the version of code that you see here. Truly remarkable and Bill and I owe him a lot of thanks. So what's new? First, you can now save your work. Yes, that's right. After creating a panel, all you have to do is log out or go to another web page. The next time you log in you're panel will still be right there were you left off. Neat. Space saving organization. Drop down menu's allow you to select the panel you're interested and the category of instruments your interested in working on. This saves space and makes creating panels easier. Duplicate items. Now you can drag as many items onto the panel as you like. Just keep dragging them up there. You want lots of circuit breaker and switches. Just keep dragging them up. If you don't like an instrument then just drag it off the panel and it goes away. Don't like any of your work and want to start over? Just hit the reset button. Because of all the code changes, the time it takes for the initial page to load has been greatly reduced because it doesn't have to load all the images at once. After the last version was published we received a ton or requests for additional panels and equipment. This is where Bill Vondane came to the rescue. Bill jumped into action and developed no less than 20, yes 20, new panels and added many more instruments. After Jared modified the code to make the new changes possible, Bill had to add all the new data, and modify things to get it published. Bill also created the user interface and "Tips" page to help makes things a little clearer. Bill and Jared have graciously donated LOTS of time and effort to bring this tool to it's present state. Remember, these guys both have planes to build and busy jobs and families to take care of. Enjoy the updated version and let us know what you think. Alas, there is a downside. For all those Microsoft haters out there, this new version is even LESS Netscape friendly than the pervious version. At this time, due to the methods used to create some of the features, ONLY Internet Explore 5.5 can be used to access the new features. Jared is working on making it compatible with earlier versions of Internet Explorer so until that time, the earlier version 1.0 is still available to use. We're talking about developing some techniques that will allow ALL browsers to work but that's still a ways off as time and energy permits. Check it out. http://sonexlinks.com/panelbuilder/ or link to it from my page http://bmnellis.com or Bills page http://vondane.com/rv8a Guess what? It's still free! What a country. Mike Nellis Stinson 108-2 N9666K RV-6 N699BM (reserved) Plainfield, IL (LOT) http://bmnellis.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 28, 2001
From: "bob n." <ronoy(at)shentel.net>
Subject: Re: tank and BRS location options
Wecome, John R.--but what's with the *nubiles*? >Thanks again for always helping and respecting the nubiles. nubile: a young woman who seems fully developed sexually. Wait til Steve G. grabs this one! bn ________________________________________________________________________________
From: dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle)
Date: Mar 28, 2001
"Missing Digest Messages Solved!!" (Mar 27, 8:04am)
Subject: Missing Digest Messages Solved!! [Repost]
[ Here's the message I sent out yesterday regarding the fix for the missing messages in the Digest posts. I noticed today that I had the list message filters set a bit to sensitive and three or four of the lines were missing from my message by the time it made it to the List. With these lines missing, the message pretty much made me sound like a dork, now didn't it... ;-) In the future, if you notice that some of your text has been stripped out of a message you've posted (it will be done on a line by line basis), please email me the before and after versions so that I can tweek the filters a bit. Tell a friend. -Matt ] [Here's what I meant to say yesterday: ] I've solved the mystery of the missing Digest messages. Seems that I had Sendmail configured to accept a period (.) on a line by itself as a "end of message" indicator. For some reason, Larry Bourne's messages always seemed to have this sequence of characters between his message the the reply-to text at the end of his message. This would cause Sendmail to stop sending text at this point. Anyway, Sendmail is easily configured not to do this and I have modified and tested it this morning and this has fixed the problem. I will resend last night's Digest in a minute. Thanks to a couple of members who got me going done the Larry B. message track. Best regards, Matt Dralle Email List Admin. -- Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551 925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft Great minds discuss ideas, Average minds discuss events, Small minds discuss people... ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 28, 2001
From: Ben Ransom <bwr000(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Do I need a static port?
Same thing on my Firestar -- you need a static port. Then the question becomes where. I finally found a perfect solution before drilling too many holes in the sides of my plane. I stuffed nylon hose (from static port) into the little gap between the nose pod and fabric on each side of the front of the plane. You can get a nylon T from any ol hardware store. (A T to get the port open to each side cancels pressure effects of side slip.) Rechecking my IAS came out very close to perfect over the whole speed range. -Ben Ransom >--- erich_weaver(at)urscorp.com wrote: > I recently installed doors, but not the full enclosure with rear > panels, on > my Mrk III. Sure am glad to have that wind out of my face!. Now I > see my > airspeed indicator is way off (reads high). I would assume that I > need a > static port ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Cooley" <johnc(at)datasync.com>
Subject: Lexan gap seal
Date: Mar 28, 2001
Hi Gang, Reached a major milestone this past Friday, I finally got through painting. Now I need to put on about 500 ft of pinstripping and the finish will be done. I was going to run in the engine today but Mother Nature has other ideas. I worked on the gap seal a little Sunday afternoon a have a question for anyone that can help. I purchased the Lexan gap seal kit from TNK a few months back and there are two springs about 6 inches long. How are these installed? My plans are pretty new and show how to build the gap seal but don't say anything about the springs. Hope to be in the air in the next few weeks. Thanks, John Cooley Building FS II #1162 503 DCDI, BRS, EIS, GSC/Powerfin (soon), & strobes ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 28, 2001
From: Ulflyer(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: Do I need a static port?
<< -- you need a static port. Then the question becomes where. I finally found a perfect solution before drilling too many holes in the sides of my plane. >> Another possible location that worked for me on my Firestar is up inside the strut. I routed a small dia. tube along the fuselage side, brought it out the hole for the brake cable, and shoved it up inside the strut about half way. I colsed the top and bottom openings in the strut with pieces of foam (removeable). ASI is now within a mph or 2 of my GPS. Charlie K. FS II / 503 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 28, 2001
From: Michael Ransom <mlransom(at)ucdavis.edu>
Subject: UltraStar Homepage Anyone?
(Or, alternate subject header: "Let's get Mike flying again.") I think I've been re-infected with the flying bug. Yesterday after reading and writing Kolb email, I had wasted so much time at work that I decided "what the heck" and just kept going by adding a bit to my flying web pages. (Don't worry boss, I worked all day the day before even tho I had the day off!) Anyway, as you can see from some notes in one of my web pages (http://128.120.215.11/~Mike/FLYING/ToDoList.htm), there isn't really *that* much to do to get my UltraStar airworthy again. Perhaps I just need a little encouragement. Since my Internet activities were so effective in this regard, I'm going to continue with them. I'd like to request that people with UltraStar information and photos send them to me so I can add to my UltraStar web page (http://128.120.215.11/~Mike/FLYING/UltraStars/). I think it will be fun and helpful to have sort of an unofficial UltraStar home page. Please send me any images in a fairly high quality format (hi res JPEGs or TIFs up to around 4mb if possible. If all you have is smaller JPGs or GIFs, that's really okay too. Also, if you've bookmarked any links to some good U/S info or images, you could pass them on to me also and I'll add add them as links. Mike Ransom, Programmer mlransom(at)ucdavis.edu Sustainable Agriculture Research and Education Program (SAREP) University of California, Davis Davis, California, USA


March 12, 2001 - March 28, 2001

Kolb-Archive.digest.vol-ct