Kolb-Archive.digest.vol-ct
March 12, 2001 - March 28, 2001
will be no painting this morning and possibly for the rest
of the day. Alas, I have other stuff I must do inside. It
all counts towards flying again.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Ksbroste(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Elevator & Rudder Clearance |
(1) What is the recommended clearance between the rudder at full left or
right deflection and the elevators?
(2) Has Kolb changed the assembly or connection between the aileron torque
tube and the tube going to the aileron bell crank? My blueprints show a
square like u-joint assembly. Did they forget to send me this joint part?
Or on the other hand, there is a short tube assembly with rubber flex joint
in the middle. Is this rubber flex tube my connection between the two
aileron tubes?
Thanks, I'd have a much bigger phone bill to Kolb without everybody's help.
Ken
Firestar
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Julian Warren <jgw300(at)webolium.com> |
I spoke with Ray today about the question of which way the rudder horn
is placed on the rudder post. And what if anything the two holes were
drilled in it for!
He stated that you should mount the horn with the tabs pointed towards
the Vert Stab trailing edge as shown on page 12 of the plans. They are
as reported stops to keep rudder from hitting the Elevators. If they do
not allow enough travel, cut them down until you have the desired travel
of the rudder. If they allow too much travel then you can pop rivet a
piece in the two holes that limit the travel further. (I personally do
not see that as a potential problem.)
The photo on page 10 of the manual is incorrect. The unit was installed
backwards.
Excellent, friendly support from Ray. I get a feeling I will be talking
to him again. I am going to e-mail him next time in an effort to keep my
phone bill down.
Julian Warren
Eugene, Oregon
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Tim Gherkins" <rp3420(at)email.sps.mot.com> |
Subject: | Re: Elevator & Rudder Clearance |
Ken,
I am not sure of your first question about clearance. But, you are
right about the new aileron assembly. The rubber covered universal
joint is the connection between the two tubes. Email kolb and request
updated instructions. they are very good with a quick reply plus it's
easier on the phone bill.
Tim
Firestar II
Ksbroste(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> (1) What is the recommended clearance between the rudder at full left or
> right deflection and the elevators?
>
> (2) Has Kolb changed the assembly or connection between the aileron torque
> tube and the tube going to the aileron bell crank? My blueprints show a
> square like u-joint assembly. Did they forget to send me this joint part?
> Or on the other hand, there is a short tube assembly with rubber flex joint
> in the middle. Is this rubber flex tube my connection between the two
> aileron tubes?
>
> Thanks, I'd have a much bigger phone bill to Kolb without everybody's help.
>
> Ken
> Firestar
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | TAILDRAGGER503(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: typing in caps |
Please stop the nonsense GIRLS.
DAVE SNYDER LONG BRANCH ,N.J. BUILDING FSII
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Richmond <twoschmoops(at)yahoo.com> |
Hey all,
Who uses what gas? Street corner hi octane or jet A blue?
Why or why not?
Thanks
=====
John & Lynn Richmond :-)
Palm Coast, Fl.
Mk3, 582
Yahoo! Auctions - Buy the things you want at great prices.
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Christopher John Armstrong" <Tophera(at)centurytel.net> |
----- Original Message -----
From: "ronoy" <ronoy(at)shentel.net>
Sent: Monday, March 12, 2001 1:09 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Re: BUGS
>
> The rolled up tape is good idea.Small end of toothpick or broomstraw
> worked for me. Get 'em while it's really wet, and paint will re-flow
> over spot without leaving much damage.
> And it helps if you have a helper trained to get 'em while they're still
wiggling.
a good old fashioned pair of needle nose tweezers works for bugs, not the
regular size but the super sharp pointy ones, used for getting slivers out.
the tips of these are like little razor blade points.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Woody <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
>
>
>Beauford & All,
>
> I quit using 8.8 bolts years ago as they are close to a grade 5 SAE.
It was my understanding that the grade 8 bolts were stronger but more
brittle and were not recommended for props due to the excessive vibrations
and power surges. The other bolts in question could be counterfeit. It is
a major problem. Have the guy do a Rockwell on the bad bolts and compare
them to his older bolts or the new ones. This is where I would bet my money.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
> a good old fashioned pair of needle nose tweezers works for bugs, not the
> regular size but the super sharp pointy ones, Topher
Topher and Gang:
I tried that. These critters come apart so easily and the
aerothane is so tacky and sticky, one can possibly remove
the wing that has not stuck yet, but all the rest that is
stuck in the paint gets macerated and I end up with chopped
soui in the paint. Besides, my darn hands are too shakey
when I get close to wet aerothane.
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Ksbroste(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Elevator and rudder clearances? |
Yes, Will, that's the joint I was describing for the aileron control tubes.
What's the recommended way of attaching this? Kolb needs to redo their
prints in a bad sort of way. Their nuts and bolts and assorted small
hardware come up kind of short in the second kit.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | ed mills <edgmills(at)yahoo.com> |
Edward
I may be interested in that BRS.
Please call me at 214-544-3500 to discuss, I have
questions.
Thanks
another Edward
Mills
--- Edward Steuber wrote:
>
>
> I am rebuilding an Ultrastar and found that the prop
> (Culver 50x36) has
> 1/4inch aircraft bolts that fit in what looks like
> 5/16 holes in the
> prop flange. The prop has evidence (slight burning)
> on the hub from
> running 15 hours since rebuild .Should I ream the
> holes to 5/16 and go
> to the larger aircraft bolt ?.....Also have BRS-5
> cannister chute that
> is for sale and needs repack but rocket still good.
> Make an offer
> ......Ed Steuber , Western N.Y.
>
>
>
> through
>
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
> Matronics!
>
>
>
>
>
Yahoo! Auctions - Buy the things you want at great prices.
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | ed mills <edgmills(at)yahoo.com> |
My apologies to the list on this and recent replies.
I intended to go back "direct"
Ed
--- ed mills wrote:
>
>
> Edward
> I may be interested in that BRS.
> Please call me at 214-544-3500 to discuss, I have
> questions.
> Thanks
> another Edward
> Mills
>
Yahoo! Auctions - Buy the things you want at great prices.
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
> ---The exception for the 600 paper idea is metallics--don't attempt
> to sand them, they get real ugly!
slyck
Slyck and Gang:
So does Aerothane! Usually, you are stuck with what you
shoot. The neat thing about aerothane is that is will
continue to flow out over a period of days, depending on
temps. Sometimes what looks like a flaw, right after it is
shot, will level itself in time.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Ray L Baker <rbaker2(at)juno.com> |
Could the bolts themselves be the problem. We keep hearing about
substandard parts slipping into the supply. It is possible that not
everything labeled AN meets the specs.
L. Ray Baker
Lake Butler, Fl
Building Mark III, SN M1156--N629RB
writes:
>
> maybe something has changed in his reduction or engine over all
> those hours?
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | WillUribe(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Sunday's Flight |
Ralph,
Glad to read your flying stories. It's the windy season here in the
Southwest so we couldn't fly this weekend. Next weekend, weather permitting,
Dave and I are flying to an Albuquerque fly-in.
To keep new builders motivated here are some old pictures of Russell Duffy's
SlingShot flying over Florida's beaches.
http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/Page1.html
AOL users click here.
Enjoy,
Will Uribe
El Paso, TX
http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/
As always do archive because they will be deleted.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Gas types ?? |
In a message dated 3/12/01 4:37:19 PM Eastern Standard Time,
twoschmoops(at)yahoo.com writes:
> Who uses what gas? Street corner hi octane or jet A blue?
>
> Why or why not?
>
>
John, most of us around here use Amoco Premium [93 octane]. It's clear, so
you can tell if you've added your oil [Pennzoil Aircooled]. Most around here
like to pre-mix, although many will object to that. There is never any
alcohol added, at least in this neck of the woods.
I have talked to pilots who have R-503's with over 500 hours without pulling
the heads who use the above combination with one fellow having over 600 on
his- he adds 2oz. of "Marvel Mystery Oil" to each 5 gallons of gas [I do too].
This is not to say that other gas & oil brands won't work well, but it's hard
to argue with success.
Flame away.....
Howard Shackleford
FS I
SC
P.S.
See you in Morganton.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Richard Swiderski" <swiderskir(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Re: Prop bolts & Prop Flanges |
Ed & All,
Drilling and then reaming out the prop flange is something all of us
should do. The Rotax flange is tapped to recieve the prop bolts. The most
severe forces experienced on them is not tension but shear, and the bolts
weakest point on shear is in its threaded area, therefore the strongest
setup would be where the bolts shoulder is on shear & not its thread, hence
we should drill out the threads & use a nylock nut behind the flange.
...Richard Swiderski
----- Original Message -----
From: "Edward Steuber" <esteuber(at)rochester.rr.com>
Sent: Monday, March 12, 2001 8:17 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Prop bolts
>
> I am rebuilding an Ultrastar and found that the prop (Culver 50x36) has
> 1/4inch aircraft bolts that fit in what looks like 5/16 holes in the
> prop flange. The prop has evidence (slight burning) on the hub from
> running 15 hours since rebuild .Should I ream the holes to 5/16 and go
> to the larger aircraft bolt ?.....Also have BRS-5 cannister chute that
> is for sale and needs repack but rocket still good. Make an offer
> ......Ed Steuber , Western N.Y.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Richard Swiderski" <swiderskir(at)earthlink.net> |
Woody,
I heard that line before as well. (... It was my understanding that the
grade 8 bolts were stronger but more brittle and were not recommended for
props due to the excessive vibrations and power surges. ...) Do you think
rods & flywheels are devoid of those forces? They have the most extreme
forces in the engine & grade 8 is used there. And correct me if I am wrong,
but I don't believe any of our metric bolts are AN hardware are they?
...Richard Swiderski
----- Original Message -----
From: "Woody" <duesouth(at)govital.net>
Sent: Sunday, March 11, 2001 10:59 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Prop Bolts
>
> >
> >
> >Beauford & All,
> >
> > I quit using 8.8 bolts years ago as they are close to a grade 5 SAE.
>
> It was my understanding that the grade 8 bolts were stronger but more
> brittle and were not recommended for props due to the excessive vibrations
> and power surges. The other bolts in question could be counterfeit. It is
> a major problem. Have the guy do a Rockwell on the bad bolts and compare
> them to his older bolts or the new ones. This is where I would bet my
money.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)msn.com> |
Subject: | Re: fuel supply question, more input |
Had to laugh when I read the part about using the siphoned gas in your car,
then I had to remember doing the same thing with treated gas I took out of
my boat in the spring. The old van drank that oily, storage treated gas -
lots of it - with nary a whimper. Lar. Do
not Archive.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.biglar.homestead.com/larry.html
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Gerken" <gerken(at)us.ibm.com>
Sent: Monday, March 12, 2001 7:04 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: fuel supply question, more input
>
> (For the guy asking for input on his fuel supply lines>>>)
> when plumbing my mkiii, I used both fuel filters BEFORE the brass "T". So
> each tank has a filter before they are combined a the "T". This gives a
> couple advantages; first, the flow restriction caused by having the
> filters on the intake side of the fuel pump is cut in half (less
> restriction because of twice the filter area), second, you get a chance
to
> notice a plugged filter by the uneven usage from the tanks (one tank would
> go down faster than the other if one filter was plugged). It offer some
> redundancy, think about it.
> I went a step further by brazing a 1/8" nipple fitting to the brass "T"
> (and then drilling it thru), to allow tapping off the 1/8" primer line
> supply from this point, thus eliminating two more clamped fittings. I
> have removed the large primer bulb completly now, and removed the chokes
> and cables last year, and now rely on the push-pull primer only. This
> works fine and seems to offer the simplest, lightest system. It also
> reduces fittings and fuel line length. I have not used a gascolator.
> However, I do siphon-clean my tanks every couple months to remove colected
> particulate and water. The tanks dip tubes go to 3/4" from bottom, so the
> water and dirt particles stay in the tank (until siphoned out). To do
this
> siphoning, I used a large primer bulb connected to some fuel line hose and
> a pc of copper tube 3 feet long so I can get right to the bottom and suck
> the chunks and water out of there. To do this, the tank does not have to
> be empty, but if it is empty you can see the bottom better. The fuel I
> siphon out goes into my car.
>
> Jim G
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
It is possible that not
> everything labeled AN meets the specs.
>
> L. Ray Baker
Ray and GAng:
The prop bolts we use on our Rotax engines are metric. They
are not AN hardware. The prop bolts from Warp Drive and Ivo
are metric, non-AN type. The 1/4 inch pinch bolts on the
Warp Drive are AN hardware.d
Like I said in a previous msg, I get my prop bolts at the
local "nut and bolt" shop, grade 8.8 and 10.9. I have used
both with success.
Back in the old days, flying the 447, I broke a lot of AN
1/4 inch prop bolts. Have only broke one on the 912 and
none on the 912S. Don't remember breaking a metric prop
bolt on the 582 either.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Woody <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
>
>
>Woody,
>
> I heard that line before as well. (... It was my understanding that the
>grade 8 bolts were stronger but more brittle and were not recommended for
>props due to the excessive vibrations and power surges. ...) Do you think
>rods & flywheels are devoid of those forces?
Yes I do. The forces on rod bolts and cap bolts are straight along the
axis of the bolt (pulling). The flywheel uses a much shorter bolt and does
not have the gyroscopic forces as a prop. On a prop bolt the action is
twisting. The twisting force is why you need a softer bolt. A simple
analogy is a flexible building is more able to withstand an earthquake than
a very rigid building. A similar situation occurs with the prop bolts.
> They have the most extreme
>forces in the engine & grade 8 is used there. And correct me if I am wrong,
>but I don't believe any of our metric bolts are AN hardware are they?
>...Richard Swiderski
A/N bolts means they passed the "U.S." Army/Navy standard. What ever
the qualities are I am sure metrics have a similar standard and our
European pals could let us know what the grade is for future reference..
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)msn.com> |
Subject: | Re: typing in caps |
Looks like everyone's gotta get their 2 cents worth in. Let it drop, for
Pete's Sake ! ! ! Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.biglar.homestead.com/larry.html
----- Original Message -----
From: <TAILDRAGGER503(at)aol.com>
Sent: Monday, March 12, 2001 1:26 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: typing in caps
>
> Please stop the nonsense GIRLS.
>
> DAVE SNYDER LONG BRANCH ,N.J. BUILDING FSII
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Guy Swenson" <guys(at)rrt.net> |
Clay,
The following is paragraph 3 pg.. 20 of the "classic" construction manual.
"The "tongue" on the inboard wing rib must also be riveted to the bottom
inside of the spar tube. Drill holes for two rows of 1/8" x 1/4" rivets with
3/4" spacing, on either side of the tongue. Drill four holes, set four
rivets, then drill another set of holes and install more rivets. If all
holes are drilled at one time, the tongue will be pushed away from the tube
and a permanent gap will result."
The construction of the Xtra wing is the same as the Classic with only one
change. and that is the three - 5/16(tube) angle braces that go from the
leading edge tube to the main spar tube have been changed to 1/2"( tube).
I hope this helps
Guy S.
MK3 Xtra
Barnesville, MN
-----Original Message-----
From: Clay Stuart <cstuart(at)searnet.com>
Date: Sunday, March 11, 2001 6:59 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: root rib
>
>On the Mark IIIXtra plans, there are no rivets called for on the metal foot
>of the root rib that extends inside the bottom of the wing spar. Looking
at
>pictures that Roddy from Cincinnati took at the Kolb factory shows
>approximately 20 rivets (two rows of 10) in this area. I need to know the
>rivet number and spacing for this.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Richard Swiderski" <swiderskir(at)earthlink.net> |
Woody,
You are missing the point. The bolt with the most extreme loads,
tension or shear, are grade 8. And the loads are similar. Like the rod
caps, the prop bolts are under tension & like the flywheel they are under
sheer. (This is probably not significant as the tension keeps the prop
from twisting due to fricion so the shearing force is limited.) The energy
in the flywheel is comparable to the prop as it weighs much more & is
spinning faster & the velocity component of energy is squared. I assume you
mean bending when you say twisting, as twisting would imply a tortional
rotation. I could see the bolts bending if they were loose & the prop was
actually moving back & forth on the hub, but again if the proper
torque/tension is there, this will not be happening. To illustrate
thispoint, I had wooden prop that was centered by a pilot in the center
hole, and the holes for the prop bolts were way bigger than the bolts.
After about 50 hrs I broke the prop when it struck the ground. There was no
visible evidence of those holes being elongated. They were not even shiny.
Those big bolt holes always worried me & I was expecting one side of each
hole to be rubbing against each bolt but that did not happen at all. The
bottom line is that grade 8 stretches less & shears harder, and unless there
is actual flexing going on, a grade 8 will be a superior fastener than a
grade 5 and it seems to me a prop fits this scenario, especially if they
are extra long due to a spacer. ...Richard Swiderski
...
----- Original Message -----
From: "Woody" <duesouth(at)govital.net>
Sent: Monday, March 12, 2001 10:59 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Prop Bolts
>
>
> >
> >
> >Woody,
> >
> > I heard that line before as well. (... It was my understanding that
the
> >grade 8 bolts were stronger but more brittle and were not recommended for
> >props due to the excessive vibrations and power surges. ...) Do you
think
> >rods & flywheels are devoid of those forces?
>
> Yes I do. The forces on rod bolts and cap bolts are straight along the
> axis of the bolt (pulling). The flywheel uses a much shorter bolt and does
> not have the gyroscopic forces as a prop. On a prop bolt the action is
> twisting. The twisting force is why you need a softer bolt. A simple
> analogy is a flexible building is more able to withstand an earthquake
than
> a very rigid building. A similar situation occurs with the prop bolts.
>
> > They have the most extreme
> >forces in the engine & grade 8 is used there. And correct me if I am
wrong,
> >but I don't believe any of our metric bolts are AN hardware are they?
> >...Richard Swiderski
>
> A/N bolts means they passed the "U.S." Army/Navy standard. What ever
> the qualities are I am sure metrics have a similar standard and our
> European pals could let us know what the grade is for future reference..
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)msn.com> |
Looks like it's catching, eh ?? No Look Lar. Do not
Archive.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.biglar.homestead.com/larry.html
----- Original Message -----
From: "ed mills" <edgmills(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Monday, March 12, 2001 3:22 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Prop bolts
>
> My apologies to the list on this and recent replies.
> I intended to go back "direct"
> Ed
> --- ed mills wrote:
> >
> >
> > Edward
> > I may be interested in that BRS.
> > Please call me at 214-544-3500 to discuss, I have
> > questions.
> > Thanks
> > another Edward
> > Mills
> >
>
>
> Yahoo! Auctions - Buy the things you want at great prices.
> http://auctions.yahoo.com/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)msn.com> |
Subject: | Re: Prop bolts & Prop Flanges |
I'm following this thread with great interest, since I'm ready to buy the
prop bolts, and in a couple of weeks will be mounting the prop, for engine
start-up. Yessss ! ! ! I'm interested in the idea of reaming the threads
out of the flange, since, as you say, the shank of the bolt will be much
stronger in shear than the threads. As has been said before, and tonight,
there shouldn't be much shear load on properly torqued bolts, but if they
work loose, or the prop compresses, or something, it could possibly be a
factor, and any extra safety factor could be a benefit. My biggest
concern is one mentioned a few weeks ago, and that is...................how
to get an accurate torque reading when using a nyloc nut ?? Possibly go by
measuring bolt stretch ??, as some books recommend doing on con rod bolts
?? This is NOT a joke.......measuring bolt stretch is a valid method of
calculating load/torque. If used, how much stretch ?? Or would it be
better to go with drilled bolts and nuts, and safety wire them at both ends
?? That seems the simplest and surest to me. Final
concern.............what is the final word on the AN vs G8 bolt controversy
?? I've come to regard AN as almost bullet-proof, but I've also seen gr. 8
bolts take some enormous punishment and grin at it. Anyone ??
Big Lar.
P.S. For the ultimate in massive strength, the tungsten steel that
Caterpillar uses on its' bulldozers is the most unbelievably strong material
I've ever seen. The abuse those things take is incredible. I had years of
experience with it when working in the woods, and the impact loads, and
stretching and banging those choker bells took had to be seen to be
believed. I wonder.............?? Logger Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.biglar.homestead.com/larry.html
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Swiderski" <swiderskir(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Monday, March 12, 2001 6:39 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Prop bolts & Prop Flanges
>
> Ed & All,
>
> Drilling and then reaming out the prop flange is something all of us
> should do. The Rotax flange is tapped to recieve the prop bolts. The
most
> severe forces experienced on them is not tension but shear, and the bolts
> weakest point on shear is in its threaded area, therefore the strongest>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Richmond <twoschmoops(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: Gas types ?? |
Thanks howard,
Guess I'm reading too much in the CPS book about the gas test with
water (mix, shake up, watch for the milky-ness) I did this test and
Whoa! lots of milky.
I just snuck some 100LL from my training Cessna Sunday, will make the
same test and compare. For everyone, sorry I mis-spoke yesterday,
saying "Jet A" instead of 100LL was blue.
Was just wondering about everyones gas opinions. Will post the
milk-test pictures this week after getting the 93 octane.
thanks
--- HShack(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> In a message dated 3/12/01 4:37:19 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> twoschmoops(at)yahoo.com writes:
>
>
> > Who uses what gas? Street corner hi octane or jet A blue?
> >
> > Why or why not?
> >
> >
>
>
> John, most of us around here use Amoco Premium [93 octane]. It's
> clear, so
> you can tell if you've added your oil [Pennzoil Aircooled]. Most
> around here
> like to pre-mix, although many will object to that. There is never
> any
> alcohol added, at least in this neck of the woods.
>
> I have talked to pilots who have R-503's with over 500 hours without
> pulling
> the heads who use the above combination with one fellow having over
> 600 on
> his- he adds 2oz. of "Marvel Mystery Oil" to each 5 gallons of gas [I
> do too].
>
> This is not to say that other gas & oil brands won't work well, but
> it's hard
> to argue with success.
>
> Flame away.....
>
> Howard Shackleford
> FS I
> SC
>
> P.S.
> See you in Morganton.
>
>
>
>
>
>
=====
John & Lynn Richmond :-)
Palm Coast, Fl.
Mk3, 582
Yahoo! Auctions - Buy the things you want at great prices.
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | dixieshack(at)webtv.net (orie shackelford) |
Hey Richard, how about this. Prop bolts nor flywheel bolts are in
shear, only tension. If they are in shear they've come loose or were
installed too loosely. Chevy, for instance uses a dowel to locate the
flywheel to the crank. If you get a rumble that disappears when you
PUSH the clutch, chances are the flywheel is loose. These and prop
bolts supply "pressure" to the flate plate contact areas (in this case)
between the prop and flange. If prop bolts or flywheel bolts for that
matter come into shear, they're not tight enough and ain't gonna make
it. The friction of the contact areas and the maintaining of that
friction by proper torque and bolt selection is what spins the prop. I
agree that a too soft bolt will stretch and in doing so allows things to
come loose.
My 50 cents worth
Hillbilly Mike
FSII from WV
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Re: Gas types ?? |
Also, started looking for alternate plugs
> for the BR8EV and came up with a Bosch platinum plug #4215. Wasn't going to
> say anything until I had some hours on them but here goes.
> Dave Rains
Dave and Gang:
A NGK BR8EV in my 447 powered original Firestar put me down
on Grand Island, NY, in the middle of the Niagra River, five
minutes after flying over Niagra Falls. An electrode came
loose and grounded itself on the ground strap, causing the
engine failure.
That was enough to look for alternative. This was 1988. I
came up with Bosch Platinum WR4CP. Strange I can remember
that number after all these years. Never had a problem with
the WR4CP. However, I had to also run Bosch spark plug
wires and caps/boots. NGK spark plug boots do not fit Bosch
plugs, etc. Take a look at the ridges around the upper
portion of different brand plugs. Most all are different.
If they don't match, they will get loose and get gone.
According to Rotax, minimum octane for all engines up 912,
except 912S and 914, is 87. 912S and 914 is 91. Increased
octane does not increase performance. Permits higher
compression ratio and prevents knock.
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Chris Sudlow" <suds77(at)telocity.com> |
Subject: | Re: Prop bolts & Prop Flanges |
Richard,
I understand your reasoning, but this goes directly against the IVO
instructions...wouldn't they know what's best in terms of set up?
Chris
-----Original Message-----
From: Richard Swiderski <swiderskir(at)earthlink.net>
Date: Monday, March 12, 2001 8:49 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Prop bolts & Prop Flanges
>
>Ed & All,
>
> Drilling and then reaming out the prop flange is something all of us
>should do. The Rotax flange is tapped to recieve the prop bolts. The most
>severe forces experienced on them is not tension but shear, and the bolts
>weakest point on shear is in its threaded area, therefore the strongest
>setup would be where the bolts shoulder is on shear & not its thread, hence
>we should drill out the threads & use a nylock nut behind the flange.
>...Richard Swiderski
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Edward Steuber" <esteuber(at)rochester.rr.com>
>To: "Kolb-List Digest List"
>Sent: Monday, March 12, 2001 8:17 AM
>Subject: Kolb-List: Prop bolts
>
>
>
>>
>> I am rebuilding an Ultrastar and found that the prop (Culver 50x36) has
>> 1/4inch aircraft bolts that fit in what looks like 5/16 holes in the
>> prop flange. The prop has evidence (slight burning) on the hub from
>> running 15 hours since rebuild .Should I ream the holes to 5/16 and go
>> to the larger aircraft bolt ?.....Also have BRS-5 cannister chute that
>> is for sale and needs repack but rocket still good. Make an offer
>> ......Ed Steuber , Western N.Y.
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jack & Louise Hart <jbhart(at)ldd.net> |
Subject: | Re: Prop bolts & Prop Flanges |
If the prop bolts are torqued to the proper level, the bolt tension loads
create sufficient normal force between the prop blade hub and the propeller
flange to prevent the hub from slipping on the propeller flange. If this
is true there is no shear load on the bolts. The situation is similar to
that of a plate clutch on an engine. If the clutch springs are strong
enough the clutch will not slip while it is engaged. There is no reason to
drill and ream out the tapped holes in the propeller flange and to to
install a longer heavier bolt.
Jack B. Hart FF004
Jackson, MO
>
>Ed & All,
>
> Drilling and then reaming out the prop flange is something all of us
>should do. The Rotax flange is tapped to recieve the prop bolts. The most
>severe forces experienced on them is not tension but shear, and the bolts
>weakest point on shear is in its threaded area, therefore the strongest
>setup would be where the bolts shoulder is on shear & not its thread, hence
>we should drill out the threads & use a nylock nut behind the flange.
>...Richard Swiderski
>
>
Jack & Louise Hart
jbhart(at)ldd.net
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | JIMMY HANKINSON <jhankin(at)planters.net> |
Do not have one and need one, what is a good brand of torque wrench and
what size is needed on the Kolb?
Jimmy
Firefly #35
Southeast Georgia
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Vic" <vicw(at)vcn.com> |
Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 38 Msgs - 03/12/01 |
Any one have a suggestion on how to safety the EGT probes to the manifold.
I have the factory installed probe bosses.
Vic
The Sundance Kid
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | ronoy <ronoy(at)shentel.net> |
Subject: | Re: Torque wrench/ values |
Jimmy,
I've used Craftsman tools (Sears) for over 50 years, and while they are
not cheap, Sears will happily(?) exchange most any broken/unuseable
tool. I've had three Sears torque wrenches, only the clip-stop settable
types. One stolen, the others were ft-lb and in-lb, respectively. The
only problem with the in-lb wrench is that it doesn't go very high, but
then the ft-lb wrench is hard to set for very small values. Check your store.
Also, if you have any A&P friends, ask them to price wrenches when
Snap-On and Matco come around. They are good tools, and sometimes will
give a small discount to A&Ps.
When you get one, reset it to Zero when putting it away for the day--or
week. Keeps calibration much longer.
The three main torque values for a FireFly 447 with IVO prop are: Head
bolts 195in-lb
(16+ ft-lb), plugs (cold eng.) 238in-lb (20 ft-lb), and prop 150 in-lb
(12.5 ft-lb).
bn FF070
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Mike Lovett" <lovett(at)aerotwin.com> |
Subject: | garage engineering |
In response to the interesting thread on prop bolts:
As a lurker without a Kolb, I hesitate to delve into this,
but I think everyone should be very aware of the potential
danger of disseminating opinions disguised as facts.
Some people have an innate ability to understand structural
mechanics (or aerodynamics, or internal combustion...name any
germane subject), and some people just think they do.
Unfortunately, the latter type are unaware of their
self-delusion, and will, in all good conscience, proceed
to delude others.
To a fault, I tend to preface my opinions with
"it seems to me", or some such qualifier, to alert listeners
(readers) that they must judge for themselves the
correctness of that which follows.
In this forum, there are some very smart, well-informed
members, and the truth of an issue seems to come to
the fore. But with so much at stake, it behooves
everyone to:
A: be aware of the limitations of your own knowledge.
B: be suspect of the limitations of others.
I saw this quote attributed to one Richard Whatley (who
I never heard of before); I will paraphrase:
"He who is unaware of his ignorance will only
be misled by his knowledge."
Well, there it is.
Recloaking, flame suit on...blast away ;)
Mike
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Mike Lovett" <lovett(at)aerotwin.com> |
Subject: | Prop bolts & Prop Flanges |
Here is a link to a document on the Sensenich website,
pertaining to the significance of prop bolt torque,
specifically with regard to wooden propellers:
http://www.sensenichprop.com/direct/document/wsb-1.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Re: garage engineering |
> To a fault, I tend to preface my opinions with
> "it seems to me", or some such qualifier, to alert listeners
> (readers) that they must judge for themselves the
> correctness of that which follows.
> Mike
Mike and Gang:
Well said and something all of us should try and remember.
I am guilty of forgetting to emphasize that what I say is my
own experience and personal opinion.
Another thing that is easy to forget when responding to the
List is some Kolbers are absolutely green, just like I was
when I started searching for my first UL to build in 1983.
I was hungry for information and experience and grasped on
everything I saw and heard.
I think it was the Father of the "Flying Stork" that made a
comment about "everybody should drill out their prop
flanges, ream them, and use nyloc nuts." I told myself I
was too busy to respond and didn't. But these are the type
comments Mike is talking about. Personally, I ain't gonna
start drilling on my prop flange for anyone, not even
Richard, who has been my flying friend for almost 14 years.
Don't get pissed Richard, just using you as an example.
:-) Not picking on you.
Mike, everyone on this List and any other List should take
heed to what you said.
Thanks,
john (just my own personal opinion) h :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | JIMMY HANKINSON <jhankin(at)planters.net> |
Subject: | Torque wrench six |
Which is better a 3/8" or 1/2" torque wrench for the Kolb?
Jimmy
Firefly #36
Southeast Georgia
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
> Has there ever been any discussion about some sort of bedding compound
> that would increse the friction and yet be removable?? Bob Currie
Bob and Gang:
Check out the Sensenich web site Mike Lovett posted. They
indicate that a painted prop hub helps increase contact
friction.
http://www.sensenichprop.com/direct/document/wsb-1.htm
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Richard Swiderski" <swiderskir(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Re: prop bolts message of Mon, 12 Mar 2001 23:58:01 |
-0800
Mike,
I would agree with you on that.
>
> Hey Richard, how about this. Prop bolts nor flywheel bolts are in
> shear, only tension. If they are in shear they've come loose or were
> installed too loosely. Chevy, for instance uses a dowel to locate the
> flywheel to the crank. If you get a rumble that disappears when you
> PUSH the clutch, chances are the flywheel is loose. These and prop
> bolts supply "pressure" to the flate plate contact areas (in this case)
> between the prop and flange. If prop bolts or flywheel bolts for that
> matter come into shear, they're not tight enough and ain't gonna make
> it. The friction of the contact areas and the maintaining of that
> friction by proper torque and bolt selection is what spins the prop. I
> agree that a too soft bolt will stretch and in doing so allows things to
> come loose.
>
> My 50 cents worth
> Hillbilly Mike
> FSII from WV
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | ronoy <ronoy(at)shentel.net> |
Subject: | Re: Torque wrench six |
3/8th drive for in-lb torque wrench
bn
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Richard Swiderski" <swiderskir(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Re: Prop bolts & Prop Flanges |
Chris,
they certainly would be the best authoity on what tension to tighten the
prop. But I personally believe a some of them are not up to speed on the
benefits of using 10.9 grade metric bolts. ...Richard Swiderski
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris Sudlow" <suds77(at)telocity.com>
Sent: Tuesday, March 13, 2001 9:51 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Prop bolts & Prop Flanges
>
> Richard,
>
> I understand your reasoning, but this goes directly against the IVO
> instructions...wouldn't they know what's best in terms of set up?
>
> Chris
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Richard Swiderski <swiderskir(at)earthlink.net>
> To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Monday, March 12, 2001 8:49 PM
> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Prop bolts & Prop Flanges
>
>
>
> >
> >Ed & All,
> >
> > Drilling and then reaming out the prop flange is something all of us
> >should do. The Rotax flange is tapped to recieve the prop bolts. The
most
> >severe forces experienced on them is not tension but shear, and the bolts
> >weakest point on shear is in its threaded area, therefore the strongest
> >setup would be where the bolts shoulder is on shear & not its thread,
hence
> >we should drill out the threads & use a nylock nut behind the flange.
> >...Richard Swiderski
> >
> >
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: "Edward Steuber" <esteuber(at)rochester.rr.com>
> >To: "Kolb-List Digest List"
> >Sent: Monday, March 12, 2001 8:17 AM
> >Subject: Kolb-List: Prop bolts
> >
> >
> >
> >>
> >> I am rebuilding an Ultrastar and found that the prop (Culver 50x36) has
> >> 1/4inch aircraft bolts that fit in what looks like 5/16 holes in the
> >> prop flange. The prop has evidence (slight burning) on the hub from
> >> running 15 hours since rebuild .Should I ream the holes to 5/16 and go
> >> to the larger aircraft bolt ?.....Also have BRS-5 cannister chute that
> >> is for sale and needs repack but rocket still good. Make an offer
> >> ......Ed Steuber , Western N.Y.
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Richard Swiderski" <swiderskir(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Re: Prop bolts & Prop Flanges |
Jack,
in thinking it thru, I've come to that postion also. Maybe one could
argue that if they were improperly torqued (too loose), a bolt whose
shoulder is on shear would hang together longer, but at some point things
get rediculous.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jack & Louise Hart" <jbhart(at)ldd.net>
Sent: Tuesday, March 13, 2001 1:22 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Prop bolts & Prop Flanges
>
> If the prop bolts are torqued to the proper level, the bolt tension loads
> create sufficient normal force between the prop blade hub and the
propeller
> flange to prevent the hub from slipping on the propeller flange. If this
> is true there is no shear load on the bolts. The situation is similar to
> that of a plate clutch on an engine. If the clutch springs are strong
> enough the clutch will not slip while it is engaged. There is no reason
to
> drill and ream out the tapped holes in the propeller flange and to to
> install a longer heavier bolt.
>
> Jack B. Hart FF004
> Jackson, MO
>
>
>
> >
> >Ed & All,
> >
> > Drilling and then reaming out the prop flange is something all of us
> >should do. The Rotax flange is tapped to recieve the prop bolts. The
most
> >severe forces experienced on them is not tension but shear, and the bolts
> >weakest point on shear is in its threaded area, therefore the strongest
> >setup would be where the bolts shoulder is on shear & not its thread,
hence
> >we should drill out the threads & use a nylock nut behind the flange.
> >...Richard Swiderski
> >
> >
>
>
> Jack & Louise Hart
> jbhart(at)ldd.net
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Richard Swiderski" <swiderskir(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Re: garage engineering |
Mike,
That is a well said truth that none of us can argue & all of us would do
better to apply! You don't need to own a Kolb to be a valuable contributor.
(In my opinion, that is!) Thanks. ...Richard Swiderski
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Lovett" <lovett(at)aerotwin.com>
Sent: Tuesday, March 13, 2001 6:11 PM
Subject: RE: Kolb-List: garage engineering
>
> In response to the interesting thread on prop bolts:
>
> As a lurker without a Kolb, I hesitate to delve into this,
> but I think everyone should be very aware of the potential
> danger of disseminating opinions disguised as facts.
>
> Some people have an innate ability to understand structural
> mechanics (or aerodynamics, or internal combustion...name any
> germane subject), and some people just think they do.
> Unfortunately, the latter type are unaware of their
> self-delusion, and will, in all good conscience, proceed
> to delude others.
>
> To a fault, I tend to preface my opinions with
> "it seems to me", or some such qualifier, to alert listeners
> (readers) that they must judge for themselves the
> correctness of that which follows.
>
> In this forum, there are some very smart, well-informed
> members, and the truth of an issue seems to come to
> the fore. But with so much at stake, it behooves
> everyone to:
> A: be aware of the limitations of your own knowledge.
> B: be suspect of the limitations of others.
>
> I saw this quote attributed to one Richard Whatley (who
> I never heard of before); I will paraphrase:
>
> "He who is unaware of his ignorance will only
> be misled by his knowledge."
>
> Well, there it is.
> Recloaking, flame suit on...blast away ;)
>
> Mike
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | SGreenpg(at)aol.com |
Kolbers,
The operation manual for my Rotax 582 schedules the plugs to be changed every
25 hrs. Is this normal useful life? I plan to stager when I change the
plugs so that both plugs in one cylinder are not degraded the same but 25
hours seem to be a very short life even in a two cycle.
Steven Green
Etowah TN
MK III 26 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
> The operation manual for my Rotax 582 schedules the plugs to be changed every
> 25 hrs.
> Steven Green
Steven and Gang:
25 hours is awful soon, but remember where you are flying.
Those Tennessee mountains for full of real hard rocks and
tall hard wood trees.
I can not remember how much time I put on my plugs in my
582. I will have to see if I can dig out the engine log for
it. I think in 1992 and 1993, Rotax prescribed 50 hour
change outs and I was not satisfied with changing them that
soon. I think a lot has to do with the type of flying you
are doing.
On my 912 the book called for 200 hour plug changes. That
was 8 of those little rascals at $4.95 each plus shipping
and handling. I could tell no difference between 200 hour
plug performance and 0 time plug performance. So, I ran a
set for 225 hours. Then installed a new set. Still no
difference in performance. But that is a 912, a completely
different engine.
On a Rotax 2 cyl 2 stroke engine with one or two plugs per
cyl, if you loose all plugs on one cyl you are going down.
It will not produce enough power for level flight. The 582
will fly with one plug fouled in each cyl. I have checked
that out by killing one side or the other of the dual
ignition while in fright. :-)
You be the judge. You have a lot of time and money invested
in your airplane, and a lot more invested in your butt and
your passenger.
BTW: How is the new MK III flying?
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Christopher John Armstrong" <Tophera(at)centurytel.net> |
> > Has there ever been any discussion about some sort of bedding compound
> > that would increse the friction and yet be removable?? Bob Currie
The SAE series of prop flanges which is used by nearly everything general
aviation use torque lugs to carry the torque load to the prop, and eliminate
any possibility of the bolts being put into shear. the smaller rotax
engines used low enough inertia props and had low enough power that Rotax
must have determined that that was not necessary. I wonder if they are
stretching things a bit applying that to the 912s and 914? I have no
opinion or no reason to think so but bolts are not good shear carrying
devices and with wooden props keeping the bolt torque high enough to keep
the friction high enough to carry all the shear loads requires rechecking
the torque with changes in the temp or humidity or just regularly. Not
nearly as much a problem with an aluminum hubed or composite prop that has
more constant thickness with conditions.
Topher
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Richard Swiderski" <swiderskir(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Re: garage engineering |
John,
Hey, other than srewing up the torque values as Big Lar noted, it was a
technically sound, good unnecessary idea! As far as me being pissed, well,
if someday you find some wet smelly tires on Miss P... . Richard
Swiderski
---- Original Message -----
From: "John Hauck"
Kolb-List message posted by: John Hauck
>
>
> I think it was the Father of the "Flying Stork" that made a
> comment about "everybody should drill out their prop
> flanges, ream them, and use nyloc nuts." I told myself I
> was too busy to respond and didn't. But these are the type
> comments Mike is talking about. Personally, I ain't gonna
> start drilling on my prop flange for anyone, not even
> Richard, who has been my flying friend for almost 14 years.
> Don't get pissed Richard, just using you as an example.
> :-) Not picking on you.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Christopher John Armstrong" <Tophera(at)centurytel.net> |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Currie" <bnb(at)erols.com>
Sent: Tuesday, March 13, 2001 9:14 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Prop Debate
>
> I agree that the prop bolts hold the flanges together and the surface
> friction takes the shear force "off the bolts" when correctly torqued.
> Has there ever been any discussion about some sort of bedding compound
> that would increse the friction and yet be removable?? Bob Currie
> Hollywood MD
Ivo started putting a diamond texture on there prop mounting plates to
increase the friction holding the blades, more for the rocking motion
cirumferentially that causes the ivo's trouble then for shear but the idea
is the same.
topher
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org> |
In my opinion the Rotax schedule for replacing parts is very conservative
in some areas. How long your plugs last has a lot to do with what kind of
fuel and oil you use. Plugs in a two-stroke last a lot longer on Amoco than
they do on 100 LL. I normally pull my plugs out every 25 hours and look at
them. If they look great, I put them back in and check them again in
another ten hours or so. If they look nasty, then something is wrong with
the fuel, the oil ratio, or something else. So you immediately fix whatever
it is that is making it create mung on the plugs, and then put in a new set
and see how it does. Bear in mind that if you have an ignition problem,
sometimes you can "fix" it with a new set of plugs. Bad move. A good
ignition will fire snotty plugs. (But that is no reason not to replace them
with good plugs!) A failing or weak ignition may need new plugs to run
smoothly. Don't be fooled. Just because it "heals itself" with new plugs,
it may still be sick. I keep an old set of gnarly but known functional
plugs as a "test set" for just such a purpose.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>Kolbers,
>
>The operation manual for my Rotax 582 schedules the plugs to be changed every
>25 hrs. Is this normal useful life? I plan to stager when I change the
>plugs so that both plugs in one cylinder are not degraded the same but 25
>hours seem to be a very short life even in a two cycle.
>
>Steven Green
>Etowah TN
>MK III 26 hrs
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | b young <byoung(at)brigham.net> |
to Jim Gerken and the rest of the list.
today i installed the prop extension that jim built for
me. it took a long time to get the prop bolts here,
they have been on back order for 5 to 6 weeks now. the
report from the ground is that it seems quieter, no one
is saying exactly how much quieter. but my radio
transmissions are reported to be quite a bit more clear.
i know that i had to readjust the squelch on the intercom to
open the vox circuit. HOWEVER i think the biggest
improvement is going to be performance. it was real hard
to tell because the air was REAL bumpy with the winds
blowing 10 to 12 with gust to 20. but it seemed that i had
an increase of 7 mph, with some smooth air i will be able
to get a better feel for the difference. also while taking
off it seemed that the tail wanted to come off the ground
quicker and with more authority. that may have been
caused some because of the wind. again i will let you know
as i get more time with the extension.
boyd
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ed Chmielewski" <edchmiel(at)mindspring.com> |
Hi Steve,
What're you waitin' for, your plugs are an hour past due! But
seriously... Mr. Pike is right on about good plugs hiding an ignition - or
other - fault. Just keep checking them, some fail early but it's pretty
rare, plus that's what dual ignition is for, to get you home when one of
four plugs fail.
Ed in JXN
MkII/503
----- Original Message -----
From: <SGreenpg(at)aol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, March 13, 2001 6:27 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Sparkplugs
>
> Kolbers,
>
> The operation manual for my Rotax 582 schedules the plugs to be changed
every
> 25 hrs. Is this normal useful life? I plan to stager when I change the
> plugs so that both plugs in one cylinder are not degraded the same but 25
> hours seem to be a very short life even in a two cycle.
>
> Steven Green
> Etowah TN
> MK III 26 hrs
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)execpc.com> |
Steven and Group,
Here is my experience, about how long spark plugs last in Rotaxes: My 277 could
hardly get more than 10 hours on a plug. A 377 and a couple of 447's ran fine for
25 to 50 hours. My 503 with dual ignition went 100 hours on it's first set of
plugs. They were still running great and looked O.K. I would think that the 582
would be most like the 503.
John Jung
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | b young <byoung(at)brigham.net> |
Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 38 Msgs - 03/12/01 |
<<<< Drilling and then reaming out the prop flange is
something all of us
should do. The Rotax flange is tapped to recieve the prop
bolts. The most
severe forces experienced on them is not tension but shear,
and the bolts
weakest point on shear is in its threaded area, therefore
the strongest
setup would be where the bolts shoulder is on shear & not
its thread, hence
we should drill out the threads & use a nylock nut behind
the flange.
...Richard Swiderski>>>>
on the instructions for my prop it sais that if the prop
flange was threaded for metric threads that an option was to
dril it out and use 5/16 bolts. my flange was not
threaded and the 5/16 bolts work great the grip legnth of
the bolt was such that i could just start to see the last
thread on the back side of the flange. i put on a washer
and the a nocknut. flew the pattern a couple of times then
stoped to retorque the bolts with no change.
boyd
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
I wonder if they are
> stretching things a bit applying that to the 912s and 914?
> Topher
Topher and Gang:
912, 912S and 914 prop flanges have drive lugs, as to the
prop extentions that I use. Would not want to leave home
without them. I think the 582 has drive lugs also. Too
tired to go look it up. Just finished final assembly of
brakes, wheels, and axles, only to find out that I have to
take one of the apart to safety two bolts that can not be
reached from outside. That means removing three safetied
screws in the rotor and a cotter key in the axle nut. Then
do it all over again. It is late and I am tired. Will do
it tomorrow.
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
Plugs in a two-stroke last a lot longer on Amoco than
> they do on 100 LL. just such a purpose.
> Richard Pike
Richard and Gang:
Plugs on my 912 would start lead fouling at about 75 hours
on a steady diet of 100LL on long XCs. Don't know about
around town flying cause I usually run 92 or 93 octane from
the country store. No problems with that fuel.
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Re: prop extension |
> today i installed the prop extension that jim built for
> me.
> boyd
Boyd and Gang:
What is the length of the extension?
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Denny Rowe" <rowedl(at)alltel.net> |
Subject: | Re: Torque wrench six |
Jimmy,
My personal opinion is the 3/8 drive torque wrench is better suited for Kolb
work.
Denny
----- Original Message -----
From: JIMMY HANKINSON <jhankin(at)planters.net>
Sent: Tuesday, March 13, 2001 7:41 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Torque wrench six
>
> Which is better a 3/8" or 1/2" torque wrench for the Kolb?
>
> Jimmy
> Firefly #36
> Southeast Georgia
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jim Minewiser" <flykolb(at)carolina.rr.com> |
Subject: | Re: Sunday's Flight |
Will
What part of Florida is that in the pic? I see lots of empty lots by the
beach.
Jim
Mark III
Charlotte, NC
----- Original Message -----
From: <WillUribe(at)aol.com>
Sent: Monday, March 12, 2001 8:20 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Sunday's Flight
>
> Ralph,
> Glad to read your flying stories. It's the windy season here in the
> Southwest so we couldn't fly this weekend. Next weekend, weather
permitting,
> Dave and I are flying to an Albuquerque fly-in.
> To keep new builders motivated here are some old pictures of Russell
Duffy's
> SlingShot flying over Florida's beaches.
> http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/Page1.html
>
> AOL users click
here.
>
> Enjoy,
> Will Uribe
> El Paso, TX
> http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/
>
> As always do archive because they will be deleted.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Kottke, Dwight" <dkottke(at)scherping.carlisle.com> |
Subject: | Torque wrench/ values |
I also am looking for a good torque wrench. What range should I get for
use on my 377 Firestar?
-----Original Message-----
From: ronoy [mailto:ronoy(at)shentel.net]
Sent: Tuesday, March 13, 2001 4:54 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Torque wrench/ values
Jimmy,
I've used Craftsman tools (Sears) for over 50 years, and while they are
not cheap, Sears will happily(?) exchange most any broken/unuseable
tool. I've had three Sears torque wrenches, only the clip-stop settable
types. One stolen, the others were ft-lb and in-lb, respectively. The
only problem with the in-lb wrench is that it doesn't go very high, but
then the ft-lb wrench is hard to set for very small values. Check your
store.
Also, if you have any A&P friends, ask them to price wrenches when
Snap-On and Matco come around. They are good tools, and sometimes will
give a small discount to A&Ps.
When you get one, reset it to Zero when putting it away for the day--or
week. Keeps calibration much longer.
The three main torque values for a FireFly 447 with IVO prop are: Head
bolts 195in-lb
(16+ ft-lb), plugs (cold eng.) 238in-lb (20 ft-lb), and prop 150 in-lb
(12.5 ft-lb).
bn FF070
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Waligroski, Gregg" <Gregg.Waligroski(at)pantellos.com> |
Subject: | Torque on a Nylok |
Sorry if this was already answered:
My biggest
concern is one mentioned a few weeks ago, and that is...................how
to get an accurate torque reading when using a nyloc nut ?? Possibly go by
measuring bolt stretch ??,
The way we were doing it on some applications was to take a dial reading
torque wrench and measure a running torque of the bolt prior to it seating
(actually we took three readings and used the average). We then added the
torque required for preload to the running torque number measured to do the
final tightening. We also on occasion used measurements of bolt "stretch".
The difficult thing about bolt torques determining preload is the friction
factor on tightening the bolt can affect the actual preload achieved. So
for example if you have a lot of friction in the nut/bolt or bolt/nut/washer
combo your actual bolt preload will be lower than desired. On the other end
is a properly torqued bolt has a preload value somewhere around 85% (if my
memory serves me right) of yield, so if you over torque it you are heading
towards yield (loss of preload) or failure (aircraft bolts can elongate at
yield so you don't get there too quickly). Many times a bolt torque table
will tell you that it assumes clean, lubricated fasteners are being used so
that you obtain a correct preload. Others say nothing and probably assume
just clean fasteners. So, how do you torque a bolt? I clean the parts and
aim for the torque value recommended. If it's a nylok (I don't have a dial
torque wrench) I try a test bolt and try to back my "click" torque wrench in
on the value. I take 70% (more afraid of over torque) of that, add it to
the recommended value and call it done. So far so good. Anyone still
awake?
Gregg
Kolb in North Houston (ex Colorado), still no location or time to fly
(Yes Ed D. I still need to call you...)
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: garage engineering |
Good observation and very well put. Sometimes it's hard to tell the experts
from the experts ( I think you know what I mean).
Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Woody <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
Subject: | Re: Torque wrench six |
>
>Which is better a 3/8" or 1/2" torque wrench for the Kolb?
>
>Jimmy
>Firefly #36
>Southeast Georgia
Most bolts on a Kolb will be in a 7/16 or 1/2 inch head. A 3/8 drive
will be sufficient. As with any tool in my opinion spend as much as you
want but temper it with how often you will use it. If you are a
professional mechanic a Snap-on will be what you need. If a once a year
torquer then a cheaper model may be adequate. I use a 1/2 drive long bar
type with the long pointer. I do not know how accurate it is but I can get
all torques the same which is important.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org> |
Subject: | Hole-y Firefly spar Batman! |
There is a Firefly owner that moved into this area, couldn't figure out why
his airplane wants to always roll to the right. He brought it over, the
left wing has about 2" of twist built in. (It was built by a third party,
acquired in an estate sale.) The new owner wants to know if it is safe to
drill out the rivets in the spar, rotate the spar just enough to get the
rivet holes into "fresh meat" and reuse the spar. I told him if it was my
Firefly I would buy a new spar, would not reuse the old one, but would ask
the list anyway just in case.
Dennis? Firefly gurus? Anybody?
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | slyck <slyck(at)frontiernet.net> |
Richard and Kolbers, obviously the best fix is throw away the old part
and put in the new, but it depends on where most of the twist is.
---if in the last few out board ribs, I'd just do them over.
---if between the "H" and the inboard rib, thats a different story.
I'm currently in the last stage of SLOOOWLY stuffing a new
spar into a mkIII wing--only 3 ft to go. You actually slide the
wing onto the spar, tapping each rib gently with a rubber mallet
sequentially, 1/4" at a time , monitoring the indexing of the vertical
lift strut hole as I go. Should be done this weekend.
(my $.02) --BB
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dennis Souder" <flykolb(at)epix.net> |
Subject: | Hole-y Firefly spar Batman! |
Richard,
Your friend probably could do sufficient correction with repositioning only
the ribs beyond the spar attach area - and not bother with the inboard wing
ribs. I say probably, because I am not looking at the whole picture. (A lot
would depend upon what is happening along the length or the rear spar tube
... whether is straight or bowed up or bowed down.) Correcting only the
outboard ribs might result is a very slight s-curve to the rear spar, but
the important thing is to have the end of the wing match the other wing tip.
The flange rivets in the outboard wing rib could be drilled out and a new
set of holes drilled, because this is totally uncritical at the end of the
spar. There is no bending stress at the end of the spar, so more holes are
not a concern.
The next to the last rib could probably be done with drilling out to a 5/32"
rivet. With the flange rivets drilled out and the rib rotated you will then
have a certain amount of misalignment between the holes in the spar and the
holes in the flange. It is very probable with the amount of twist you
describe, that drilling to 5/32 would clean up both holes and the 5/32 rivet
would do the fix.
The next rib in would probably be very close and re-riveting with 1/8"
rivets might do the job, or he could do the 5/32" rivets again.
This procedure has been done before - but no guarantees for the next one
though. Good luck.
Dennis
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Richard Pike
Sent: Wednesday, March 14, 2001 4:50 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Hole-y Firefly spar Batman!
There is a Firefly owner that moved into this area, couldn't figure out why
his airplane wants to always roll to the right. He brought it over, the
left wing has about 2" of twist built in. (It was built by a third party,
acquired in an estate sale.) The new owner wants to know if it is safe to
drill out the rivets in the spar, rotate the spar just enough to get the
rivet holes into "fresh meat" and reuse the spar. I told him if it was my
Firefly I would buy a new spar, would not reuse the old one, but would ask
the list anyway just in case.
Dennis? Firefly gurus? Anybody?
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Denny Rowe" <rowedl(at)alltel.net> |
Subject: | rear spar boogie Mk-3 |
Kolbers,
All this spar talk is hitting home here, except my problem is with the 1
1/4" dia rear spar.
I have been looking at my wings a little more closely as I near time to
cover them, i noticed that the holes drilled in the rear spar for the
aileron piano hinges on the right wing do not seem to be in a straight
line. The previous owner of the kit located these hinges and when I had
the control surfaces attatched, all seemed to work smoothly.
It seems that now I will have to double ckeck the aileron and flap hinge
lines and rehang everything for a second look.
If I decide that things do not meet specs, do you folks think it would
be OK to drill out and rotate the rear spar or maybe turn it end for end
and redrill, or should I just replace the outer 12 ft section with new
tubing?
Either way, it looks to be an easy job.
Thanks,
Denny
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Richard Neilsen" <neilsenr(at)state.mi.us> |
Subject: | Re: Hole-y Firefly spar Batman! |
OK This isn't the best solution and that would be to replace the main spar but
the forward attachment could be adjusted just enough to get the roll out. I don't
know about the firefly but the MKIII has plenty of room to do this. Just drill
another hole in the attachment tab. You will want to drill the hole far enough
from the original hole and far enough from the edge that you will not weaken
the tab but this should help. There will be some increased drag over a wing
rebuild but it would be less than what he is getting now. You might want to
talk to Kolb to make sure your not causing other problems.
My .02 cent worth
Rick Neilsen
Lansing Michigan
VW Powered MKIII
>>> robertdoebler(at)juno.com 03/14/01 05:18PM >>>
writes:
>
> There is a Firefly owner that moved into this area, couldn't figure
> out why
> his airplane wants to always roll to the right. He brought it over,
> the
> left wing has about 2" of twist built in. (It was built by a third
> party,
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | JIMMY HANKINSON <jhankin(at)planters.net> |
Help!!!
Don't seem that I am going to be able to use the two-seater of a friend
to get some flying time in before I venture up by myself.
Is there anyone with a Mark III in my area that would be willing to give
me some flying time with them.
My area is Savannah, Augusta, Stateboro, and Dublin Georgia area. I
live within close enough of these to trqvel to them.
My home area is Statesboro, Georgia, others are within 60-80 miles away.
Willing to pay for any expences. I have a Firefly with a 477 Rotax.
Have done a lot of ground taxing, have some flight experience in full
size aircrqft, flown radio control aircraft for 30 years.
Jimmy
Firefly #36
Southeast Georgia
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Woody <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
Subject: | Re: rear spar boogie Mk-3 |
>i noticed that the holes drilled in the rear spar for the
>aileron piano hinges on the right wing do not seem to be in a straight
>line. all seemed to work smoothly.
Whats the problem? if the ailerons move freely it should not be a
problem and trying to fix it will only increase your problems. In my own
crude but humble opinion.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)msn.com> |
Subject: | Re: Torque on a Nylok |
Just for a parting shot on this thread, after reading & re-reading the
alternatives, I think ol' Lar is just gonna stick with the tried and true.
Drilled head prop bolts carefully torqued into the prop flange, and
safety-wired, then re-checked periodically. A couple of ideas presented
sound very good, but I think I've got enuf experimentation on Vamoose
already. Thanks everybody for your input. Cautious Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.biglar.homestead.com/larry.html
.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Waligroski, Gregg" <Gregg.Waligroski(at)pantellos.com>
Sent: Wednesday, March 14, 2001 5:41 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Torque on a Nylok
>
> Sorry if this was already answered:
>
> My biggest
> concern is one mentioned a few weeks ago, and that
is...................how
> to get an accurate torque reading when using a nyloc nut ?? Possibly go
by
> measuring bolt stretch ??,
>
> The way we were doing it on some applications was to take a dial reading
> torque wrench and measure a running torque of the bolt prior to it seating
> (actually we took three readings and used the average). We then added the
> torque required for preload to the running torque number measured to do
the
> final tightening. We also on occasion used measurements of bolt
"stretch".>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | b young <byoung(at)brigham.net> |
The way we were doing it on some applications was to take a
dial reading
torque wrench and measure a running torque of the bolt prior
to it seating
(actually we took three readings and used the
average).>>>>>>
a while ago i posted on the web a page out of the faa
advisory circular ac 43.13-1b acceptable methods,
techniques, and practices --- aircraft inspection and
repair..... in the top box on the page it says "
caution the following torque values are derived from oil
free cadmium plated threads."
what i read from this is that the resistanceor friction in
twisting the nuts onto the bolts are allready figured into
the printed values. but then i could be wrong.
boyd
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | b young <byoung(at)brigham.net> |
Boyd and Gang:
What is the length of the extension?
john h
my new extention is 3 inch face to face. with an
additional 5/16 icnh prop centering boss. for 3 5/16
overall. my prop uses the 75mm bolt patern so the bolts
had to be long continuous bolts. not 2 sets of short bolts.
boyd
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | b young <byoung(at)brigham.net> |
for bolt torque,,,,, i found the file and posted it again.
the url is
http://www.brigham.net/~byoung/torque.jpg
boyd
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | TAILDRAGGER503(at)aol.com |
Subject: | FIRESTAR ll Vert. Stab. Bracket |
Hello FSll Builders, As you all know the plans aren't perfect but, it seems
to me that the vert. stab. bracket has a very impotant function.It is not
stated what thickness it is on my plans,can anyone help me ? Thanks alot
DAVE SNYDER LONG BRANCH ,N.J. BUILDING FSII
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ron or Mary Payne" <ronormar(at)apex.net> |
Subject: | Re: FIRESTAR ll Vert. Stab. Bracket |
On sheet 5 of my plans there is a note in the upper left section of the
drawing just ahead of the bracket that states "make brackets out of .032
aluminum". I agree that sometimes the plans are a little hard to read but
my experience is that the information is usually there. Just a little hard
to find.
Ron Payne
Building FireStar II
Gilbertsville, Ky.
----- Original Message -----
From: <TAILDRAGGER503(at)aol.com>
Sent: Friday, March 16, 2001 6:57 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: FIRESTAR ll Vert. Stab. Bracket
>
> Hello FSll Builders, As you all know the plans aren't perfect but, it
seems
> to me that the vert. stab. bracket has a very impotant function.It is not
> stated what thickness it is on my plans,can anyone help me ? Thanks alot
>
> DAVE SNYDER LONG BRANCH ,N.J. BUILDING FSII
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Frances B. Nicholson" <ultraquilt(at)cconnect.net> |
Subject: | Re: Liability Ins. |
I received my Firestar II in early January, along with a 503DCDI, 3
bladed IVO prop, cockpit enclosure, BRS 750 chute, oversize wheels and
Brakes. I have finished the wings and Ailerons up through the 4th coat
of poly-brush and am now working on the tail feathers. With a break in
the weather (its been pretty cool here in eastern NC), I should be just
about completed in 10 to 12 weeks. I located a field to the south of my
home. Its in the middle of farm country. 2500' grass strip, seven bay
hanger & utilities for a very good price. Ultralights & homebuilt a/c
welcome.
The only catch, the owner wants everyone to have liability insurance.
Where did you fellows get your insurance? Your local Ins. Co. or some
other organization?
Nick
PS After working for an aircraft co. for 33 years, I'm now retiring
and doing something different!!! Building an aircraft.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ron or Mary Payne" <ronormar(at)apex.net> |
Subject: | Re: Liability Ins. |
I got mine through my local insurance agent. $15,000 coverage on the
FireStar while not in motion. $500,000 liability excluding passenger.
Premium of $380.63 per year. You can also get this coverage from Avemco.
Ron Payne
----- Original Message -----
From: "Frances B. Nicholson" <ultraquilt(at)cconnect.net>
Sent: Friday, March 16, 2001 12:25 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Liability Ins.
>
> I received my Firestar II in early January, along with a 503DCDI, 3
> bladed IVO prop, cockpit enclosure, BRS 750 chute, oversize wheels and
> Brakes. I have finished the wings and Ailerons up through the 4th coat
> of poly-brush and am now working on the tail feathers. With a break in
> the weather (its been pretty cool here in eastern NC), I should be just
> about completed in 10 to 12 weeks. I located a field to the south of my
> home. Its in the middle of farm country. 2500' grass strip, seven bay
> hanger & utilities for a very good price. Ultralights & homebuilt a/c
> welcome.
> The only catch, the owner wants everyone to have liability insurance.
> Where did you fellows get your insurance? Your local Ins. Co. or some
> other organization?
>
> Nick
>
> PS After working for an aircraft co. for 33 years, I'm now retiring
> and doing something different!!! Building an aircraft.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Re: Liability Ins. |
> Where did you fellows get your insurance? Your local Ins. Co. or some
> other organization?
>
> Nick
Nick and Gang:
If you are going to register the Firestar homebuilt
experiementa you can get liability with AVEMCO. That is who
I have my coverage with.
Some of the other guys can fill you in on UL liability. I
am not up to snuff on that area.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Re: Liability Ins. |
> I received my Firestar II in early January, along with a 503DCDI, 3
> bladed IVO prop, cockpit enclosure, BRS 750 chute, oversize wheels and
> Brakes.
> Nick
Nick and Gang:
BTW, welcome to retirement and the Kolb Builders List.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jim Minewiser" <flykolb(at)carolina.rr.com> |
Subject: | Re: Liability Ins. |
Nick
Where in eastern NC are You?
Jim
Mark III
Charlotte, NC
----- Original Message -----
From: "Frances B. Nicholson" <ultraquilt(at)cconnect.net>
Sent: Friday, March 16, 2001 1:25 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Liability Ins.
>
> I received my Firestar II in early January, along with a 503DCDI, 3
> bladed IVO prop, cockpit enclosure, BRS 750 chute, oversize wheels and
> Brakes. I have finished the wings and Ailerons up through the 4th coat
> of poly-brush and am now working on the tail feathers. With a break in
> the weather (its been pretty cool here in eastern NC), I should be just
> about completed in 10 to 12 weeks. I located a field to the south of my
> home. Its in the middle of farm country. 2500' grass strip, seven bay
> hanger & utilities for a very good price. Ultralights & homebuilt a/c
> welcome.
> The only catch, the owner wants everyone to have liability insurance.
> Where did you fellows get your insurance? Your local Ins. Co. or some
> other organization?
>
> Nick
>
> PS After working for an aircraft co. for 33 years, I'm now retiring
> and doing something different!!! Building an aircraft.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org> |
Subject: | Re: Liability Ins. |
I am using Avemco through the EAA, not a bad deal.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>
>I received my Firestar II in early January, along with a 503DCDI, 3
>bladed IVO prop, cockpit enclosure, BRS 750 chute, oversize wheels and
>Brakes. I have finished the wings and Ailerons up through the 4th coat
>of poly-brush and am now working on the tail feathers. With a break in
>the weather (its been pretty cool here in eastern NC), I should be just
>about completed in 10 to 12 weeks. I located a field to the south of my
>home. Its in the middle of farm country. 2500' grass strip, seven bay
>hanger & utilities for a very good price. Ultralights & homebuilt a/c
>welcome.
>The only catch, the owner wants everyone to have liability insurance.
>Where did you fellows get your insurance? Your local Ins. Co. or some
>other organization?
>
>Nick
>
>PS After working for an aircraft co. for 33 years, I'm now retiring
>and doing something different!!! Building an aircraft.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)msn.com> |
Tried to send a message about the new "Odds & Ends" page I added to my
"Building Vamoose" website tonight, but for some reason it's kicking back at
me, saying I'm not a member of the List. Whaaaa ?? Check the Matronics
Kick List, and my name isn't on there; checked my Outlook Express
Properties, and my address & all are OK. Now I'm really baffled.
Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.biglar.homestead.com/larry.html
.
----- Original Message -----
From: "larrybiglar" <larrybiglar(at)email.msn.com>
Sent: Saturday, March 10, 2001 5:47 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Progress!
>
> I should have added, send 'em to me if you want, and I'll post them.
> Lar.
>
> Larry Bourne
> Palm Springs, Ca.
> Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
> http://www.biglar.homestead.com/larry.html
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "larrybiglar" <larrybiglar(at)email.msn.com>
> To:
> Sent: Saturday, March 10, 2001 5:41 PM
> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Progress!
>
>
> >
> > Good on you ! ! ! That's a major milestone, and one that's got me
> stalled.
> > Lar.
> >
> > Larry Bourne
> > Palm Springs, Ca.
> > Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
> > http://www.biglar.homestead.com/larry.html
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Ray L Baker" <rbaker2(at)juno.com>
> > To:
> > Sent: Saturday, March 10, 2001 3:54 PM
> > Subject: Kolb-List: Progress!
> >
> >
> > >
> > > Listers,
> > >
> > > I have to tell someone! I FINISHED PAINTING TODAY! Believe me it is
> > > something to shout about. I managed to get finished before the hot
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Julian Warren <jgw300(at)webolium.com> |
Thought I would let everyone know that I am buildingl! I have my tail
feathers completed, and getting well into the Port wing. You guys
helped a lot with tools and ideas. Everything going together very
nicely.
My favorite tools now are my saw, pneumatic Pop Rivet Gun, and my Spring
loaded punch.
My daughters future Father-in-law did a laser balance on my tables which
work really well. It is nice to put a level on the wing and see the
bubble dead center at any point.
I am keeping in touch by reading the list, but it seems strange to read
30 messages at a time.
Julian Warren
Eugene, Oregon
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Re: Mark III Xtra |
> Thought I would let everyone know that I am buildingl!
> Julian Warren
Julian and Gang:
Way to go! If I don't get busy, you will be flying before I
get my MK III repaired. :-)
Should have the fuselage out of the "mole hole" Monday.
Then I can start on the wings. Have to replace outboard
rib, left wing, repair bow tip bracing, and replace a
section of trailing edge tube. Repair damage to outboard
section of left aileron. That will required replacing the
same amount of leading edge tube as the wing, inboard past
the 2d rib. Then all I have to do is remove fabric both
wings, recover, dope and paint.
Hope to be finished by the first week or so of May. That's
give me a month to fly and get in shape to go to Barrow.
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | 912, 914 Service Bulletin |
Gents and Ladies:
I got this Service Bulletin from Rotax yesterday, but can
not open their web page to check it out. I do not think it
pertains to the 912S, but am not sure. I do not know if I
have a single valve spring engine or not. The SB probably
gives serial numbers for the engines it pertains to.
Can someone check it out?
I will call Ronnie Smith, South Mississippi Lt Acft, Monday
and see what is up.
Take care,
john h
"updates@rotax-owner.com" wrote:
>
> March 16, 2001
>
> Rotax has recently released the following Service Bulletins:
>
> SB-912-022, SB-912-022UL, SB-914-011, SB-914-011UL
> Replacement Of Valve Spring Retainer On Single Valve Spring
Configuration
of Rotax Engine Type 912 And 914 (Series)
>
> Summary of Service Bulletins:
> This general summary is not intended to replace the information
provided
in the bulletins.
>
> On single valve spring versions of the ROTAX 912 and 914 series
engines at
first engine run
> or oil system maintenance the hydraulic valve tappets may be
emptied and
filled with air
> resulting in a delayed purging of the lubrication system. Oil
system
maintenance would
> be considered any process that involves purging all of the oil
from the
engine (not
> simply an oil change) such as removal of oil lines, oil cooler or
oil
pump.
>
> A delayed purging of the lubrication system may cause cracks to
form on
the valve spring retainer.
>
> As a preventative measure, all single valve spring engines must
be
refitted with new
> reinforced valve spring retainers.
>
> Please contact the authorized Rotax distributor or Service Center
in your
area for more information regarding this service bulletin.
>
> IMPORTANT NOTICE!
> Aviation regulations now require Rotax to release a separate
Service
Bulletin for non - certified engines (UL designator). The
separate
bulletins contain only information indicating the non -
certified
(UL)
engines affected by the bulletin and are normally only one
page
long.
Complete information covering the service issue is contained
in the
certified service bulletin.
>
> Owners of non - certified (UL) engines will need to download and
review
both the non-certified and certified version of these
bulletins.
>
> To view or download these new Service Bulletins, point your web
browser
to:
> http://www.rotax-owner.com
>
> This automatic service document update is provided free of charge
to
registered Rotax Owners Association News web site users.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | TAILDRAGGER503(at)aol.com |
If you need to replace a gusset, place a piece a paper over the tubes that
have holes in them and rub the tubes through the paper leaving a pattern of
holes on the paper. Next, transfer the hole marks on the new gusset. Hope it
makes building a little easier.
Dave Snyder Long Branch ,N.J. Building FSII
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: 912, 914 Service Bulletin |
John , the service bulletin covers 912s s/n 4,922.501 to 4,420.253 , my
912 is too old thank goodness
c-ya Richard
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Hauck" <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Sent: Saturday, March 17, 2001 7:41 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: 912, 914 Service Bulletin
>
> Gents and Ladies:
>
> I got this Service Bulletin from Rotax yesterday, but can
> not open their web page to check it out. I do not think it
> pertains to the 912S, but am not sure. I do not know if I
> have a single valve spring engine or not. The SB probably
> gives serial numbers for the engines it pertains to.
>
> Can someone check it out?
>
> I will call Ronnie Smith, South Mississippi Lt Acft, Monday
> and see what is up.
>
> Take care,
>
> john h
>
> "updates@rotax-owner.com" wrote:
> >
> > March 16, 2001
> >
> > Rotax has recently released the following Service Bulletins:
> >
> > SB-912-022, SB-912-022UL, SB-914-011, SB-914-011UL
> > Replacement Of Valve Spring Retainer On Single Valve Spring
> Configuration
> of Rotax Engine Type 912 And 914 (Series)
> >
> > Summary of Service Bulletins:
> > This general summary is not intended to replace the information
> provided
> in the bulletins.
> >
> > On single valve spring versions of the ROTAX 912 and 914 series
> engines at
> first engine run
> > or oil system maintenance the hydraulic valve tappets may be
> emptied and
> filled with air
> > resulting in a delayed purging of the lubrication system. Oil
> system
> maintenance would
> > be considered any process that involves purging all of the oil
> from the
> engine (not
> > simply an oil change) such as removal of oil lines, oil cooler or
> oil
> pump.
> >
> > A delayed purging of the lubrication system may cause cracks to
> form on
> the valve spring retainer.
> >
> > As a preventative measure, all single valve spring engines must
> be
> refitted with new
> > reinforced valve spring retainers.
> >
> > Please contact the authorized Rotax distributor or Service Center
> in your
> area for more information regarding this service bulletin.
> >
> > IMPORTANT NOTICE!
> > Aviation regulations now require Rotax to release a separate
> Service
> Bulletin for non - certified engines (UL designator). The
> separate
> bulletins contain only information indicating the non -
> certified
> (UL)
> engines affected by the bulletin and are normally only one
> page
> long.
> Complete information covering the service issue is contained
> in the
> certified service bulletin.
> >
> > Owners of non - certified (UL) engines will need to download and
> review
> both the non-certified and certified version of these
> bulletins.
> >
> > To view or download these new Service Bulletins, point your web
> browser
> to:
> > http://www.rotax-owner.com
> >
> > This automatic service document update is provided free of charge
> to
> registered Rotax Owners Association News web site users.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: 912, 914 Service Bulletin |
OOPS John the s/n are 4,922.501 to 4,922.636 .. sorry got on the wrong
line
C-YA Richard
----- Original Message -----
From: "R. Harris" <rharris@magnolia-net.com>
Sent: Saturday, March 17, 2001 12:41 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: 912, 914 Service Bulletin
>
> John , the service bulletin covers 912s s/n 4,922.501 to 4,420.253 , my
> 912 is too old thank goodness
>
> c-ya Richard
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "John Hauck" <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
> To: "Kolb List"
> Sent: Saturday, March 17, 2001 7:41 AM
> Subject: Kolb-List: 912, 914 Service Bulletin
>
>
> >
> > Gents and Ladies:
> >
> > I got this Service Bulletin from Rotax yesterday, but can
> > not open their web page to check it out. I do not think it
> > pertains to the 912S, but am not sure. I do not know if I
> > have a single valve spring engine or not. The SB probably
> > gives serial numbers for the engines it pertains to.
> >
> > Can someone check it out?
> >
> > I will call Ronnie Smith, South Mississippi Lt Acft, Monday
> > and see what is up.
> >
> > Take care,
> >
> > john h
> >
> > "updates@rotax-owner.com" wrote:
> > >
> > > March 16, 2001
> > >
> > > Rotax has recently released the following Service Bulletins:
> > >
> > > SB-912-022, SB-912-022UL, SB-914-011, SB-914-011UL
> > > Replacement Of Valve Spring Retainer On Single Valve Spring
> > Configuration
> > of Rotax Engine Type 912 And 914 (Series)
> > >
> > > Summary of Service Bulletins:
> > > This general summary is not intended to replace the information
> > provided
> > in the bulletins.
> > >
> > > On single valve spring versions of the ROTAX 912 and 914 series
> > engines at
> > first engine run
> > > or oil system maintenance the hydraulic valve tappets may be
> > emptied and
> > filled with air
> > > resulting in a delayed purging of the lubrication system. Oil
> > system
> > maintenance would
> > > be considered any process that involves purging all of the oil
> > from the
> > engine (not
> > > simply an oil change) such as removal of oil lines, oil cooler or
> > oil
> > pump.
> > >
> > > A delayed purging of the lubrication system may cause cracks to
> > form on
> > the valve spring retainer.
> > >
> > > As a preventative measure, all single valve spring engines must
> > be
> > refitted with new
> > > reinforced valve spring retainers.
> > >
> > > Please contact the authorized Rotax distributor or Service Center
> > in your
> > area for more information regarding this service bulletin.
> > >
> > > IMPORTANT NOTICE!
> > > Aviation regulations now require Rotax to release a separate
> > Service
> > Bulletin for non - certified engines (UL designator). The
> > separate
> > bulletins contain only information indicating the non -
> > certified
> > (UL)
> > engines affected by the bulletin and are normally only one
> > page
> > long.
> > Complete information covering the service issue is contained
> > in the
> > certified service bulletin.
> > >
> > > Owners of non - certified (UL) engines will need to download and
> > review
> > both the non-certified and certified version of these
> > bulletins.
> > >
> > > To view or download these new Service Bulletins, point your web
> > browser
> > to:
> > > http://www.rotax-owner.com
> > >
> > > This automatic service document update is provided free of charge
> > to
> > registered Rotax Owners Association News web site users.
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle) |
yak-list(at)matronics.com, rocket-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: | New Webpages on Jet830 CNC Converstion... |
Hi Listers,
A couple of people emailed me and ask if I was ever going to finish my
web site on the Jet 830 Vertical Mill CNC conversion that I did a
couple of years back. Hum, I thought, that's a good idea... So I took
a few pictures today and put up a site on the converstion. Feel free
to email me if you have questions. It was a really fun project, and
well, everyone needs a CNC mill... ;-)
Have a look at the following URL for the new Jet 830 pages:
http://www.matronics.com/cnc2
And here's a link to the older pages on the CNC converstion I did on
the Sherline milling machine:
http://www.matronics.com/cnc
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
Great minds discuss ideas,
Average minds discuss events,
Small minds discuss people...
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jim Minewiser" <flykolb(at)carolina.rr.com> |
I have a Mark II with Carlisle tires, 15 x 600 - 6 which I need to
replace. They only use 14 lbs. of air pressure. Does anyone know where I
might get some?
Jim
Mark III
Charlotte, NC
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | cajwoods(at)mindspring.com |
----- Original Message -----
From: "JIMMY HANKINSON" <jhankin(at)planters.net>
Sent: Thursday, March 15, 2001 8:20 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Flying Time
>
> Help!!!
>
> Don't seem that I am going to be able to use the two-seater of a friend
> to get some flying time in before I venture up by myself.
>
> Is there anyone with a Mark III in my area that would be willing to give
> me some flying time with them.
>
> My area is Savannah, Augusta, Stateboro, and Dublin Georgia area
Jimmy,
Brother has MKIII with 912S in Cartersville Ga. 4 hrs from you. He is about
to aquire BFI status and would give you some MKIII time.
Bill Woods
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Richard Swiderski" <swiderskir(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Re: Electric Compass |
Kolbers (Except Big Lar who has enuf gadgets!)
Here's an interesting electronic compass that is not a toy
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Bob Haan
Bob,
I found a Ritchie Electronic Compass. In the marine market, Ritchie has a
reputation for quality and reliability.
Major components are a display instrument mounted in the panel and a
remote sensor and controller units that is about 5 by 5 by 5 inches and
very very light weight. I put the sensor in the tail cone to avoid any
interference.
I have a 2.25 diameter instrument. Also a 3.25 instrument is available.
After being calibrated, which is accomplished by grounding a pin and then
rotating the plane 720 degrees, accuracy is
+ or - 1/2 degree.
It cost only $147.00 and is available from West Marine.
For a picture go to http://easystreet.com/~bhaan/ the compass
is in the left upper corner of the panel. As you can see, it would be nice
if the vertical compass card was white lettering on black. My wife says
the blue goes well with the Artificial Horizon instrument. For awhile
Ritchie said they would produce a model with white lettering on a black
background. My current understanding is that they decided not to do this.
Quite a few builders saw this on my web page and bought a unit. Some of
them are flying now. I remember at least one report. Check the archive.
While you are at this web site, check out the WigWag Solid State Controller.
Bob
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
>
>
> >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "J. N. Cameron"
<toucan@the-i.net>
> >
> >Dear Bob,
> >
> > Although you've mentioned using electronic compasses in airplanes in
> >your writings, I have yet to find a suitable one for a panel or dash-top
> >mount. Do you have info you could pass along?
> >
> >Jim Cameron, Lancair ES builder
>
>
> I don't have any personal experience with the modern
> electronic compasses . . . something I need to do one of
> these days. There were some discussions on the Kitfox
> list a few months back wherein some folks have tried
> electronic compasses with mixed results. I'm sorry but
> I don't recall the details of those conversations.
>
>
> Bob . . .
> --------------------------------------------------
> ( "Imagination is more important than knowledge. )
> ( It is a miracle that curiosity survives formal )
> ( education" Albert Einstein )
> --------------------------------------------------
> http://www.aeroelectric.com
Bob Haan
http://easystreet.com/~bhaan/
bhaan(at)easystreet.com
Portland, OR
RV6A 24461 Wiring the panel
_-
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Re: 912, 914 Service Bulletin |
I do not think my
> 912S is involved in this one (hopefully).
> Take care,
>
> john h
Hey Gang:
Guess what? I opened my big mouth to soon. :-) All 912S's
have single valve springs, in my parts book. Now all I got
to sweat out is whether my s/n falls within those that are
affected. Got my arthritic fingers crossed, both hands.
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Rotax Service Bulletin 912/914 |
Greetings Gang:
I was finally able to dig out the s/n's involved with the
912S valve keeper update:
4425.001 to 4426.604
My s/n falls right in the middle of all those 912S s/n's:
4425.708
Thought I had lucked out when I first found the numbers,
then I realized the last number was 4426 not 4425. Horse
manure!!!
Take care and welcome to the "update club". We'll find out
what our sentence is Monday morning............... :-(
john h
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)msn.com> |
Subject: | Re: Electric Compass |
Well, see that...............you're pickin' on pore ol' Lar again. PPPM.
A couple of things on my mind.............the 1st of which is prob'ly about
as welcome as a herd of yellow jackets at a chicken
picnic..................looking at that site for the compass pics, there's a
potted thingie that's probably the wigwag. ( Thought those were in washing
machines ) Anyway, they have about umpteen wires captured under that single
wire nut. My long, varied, and sometimes bitter experience with wire nuts
leads me to say that's a no-no. 1st.........they've gotta be TIGHT ! ! !
Many folks just twist them on, and walk away. A few heating & cooling
cycles later, they fall off. True Story ! ! ! I've seen it many times.
2nd.......if the threads in the wire nut don't contact the strands of an
individual wire directly, you're depending on friction with the other wires
to hold the non-contacted wire in place. Believe Me..............if you
depend on it, and put it under tension, it WILL pull out. Or if the nuts'
not really tight. Or if it cools & heats a few times. Or
vibrates...........or..........or...........! ! ! For dependability, 3's
the limit under a single wire nut. Many times, I've put 2 wires, and a
jumper wire under a nut, then 2 more wires and the other end of the jumper
under another. Joking and teasing are fun, but this is neither. I'm very
serious. OverKill ?? Maybe, but I make my living with these things, and
I'll promise you........you'll find zero ( 0 ) wire nuts in
Vamoose..........pardon me........there are, I think, a couple to hold wires
temporarily, before final assembly.
2nd.......I'm still having problems with sending to the List. No
cheering, please. I attached a message last night, saying that I've added
another page to my website, under Building Vamoose, called Odds & Ends.
Shoulda called it Strobes, but it's too late now. It didn't come back to
me, soooo...........I'll try again.
3rd............Mell from http://www.kitairplaneforum.com flew in
today in a Glassair III, with a friend, to look over Vamoose, ( Thanks, John
H ) and are gonna add it to their existing files. Don't know how my ratty
ol' plane will fit in with the likes of S-51 Mustangs, and Turbine Legends,
but it should be interesting.
4th..............I guess Matronics' help line doesn't function on
weekends. Oh well. Disgusted ( again ) Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.biglar.homestead.com/larry.html
.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Swiderski" <swiderskir(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Saturday, March 17, 2001 7:43 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Electric Compass
>
> Kolbers (Except Big Lar who has enuf gadgets!)
>
> Here's an interesting electronic compass that is not a toy
>
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Bob Haan
>
> Bob,
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Patty M" <pattym(at)lushen.com> |
I know there are a few guys with Ultrastars that lurk in the wings of this
list so was wondering if anyone has used a different pitch prop than the
standard 50/30 that came with the kit. I have been smashing through the air
at 45 to 50 mph for many years and would like to try a little more speed if
it is there and usable.
Phil MacGregor
Ultrastar-Cuyuna
Need for speed
HELP
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Tennesee Prop |
My friend's Firestar KXP's prop appears to be turning a little fast for the
cruise he's getting; is a 66 X 34 the proper size?
Shack
FS I
SC
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Tennesee Prop |
In a message dated 3/18/01 10:16:59 AM Eastern Standard Time, HShack(at)aol.com
writes:
> My friend's Firestar KXP's prop appears to be turning a little fast for the
> cruise he's getting; is a 66 X 34 the proper size?
>
>
Somebody slap me!! It's a R-503 Dual Carb. engine.
Shack
FS I
SC
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Re: ultrastar prop |
I have been smashing through the air
> at 45 to 50 mph for many years and would like to try a little more speed if
> it is there and usable.
>
> Phil MacGregor
> Ultrastar-Cuyuna
Phil and Gang:
I used the standard Culver 50X30 prop on my Ultrastar.
5,800 rpm produced about 65 mph with a top speed over 80 mph
at 6,600 rpm.
Of course the prop was in good shape, no big dings, etc.
The Culver 50X30 would allow the Cuyuna II02 to bump the red
line, 6,600 rpm, WOT, straight and level flight.
What rpm are you flying to produce 45 - 50 mph? Will your
Cuyuna turn 6,600 rpm WOT, straight and level?
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | slyck <slyck(at)frontiernet.net> |
Group, having had my share of aircraft bumps and bruises through
the years, thought I'd pass along a quicky method of fixing such
things as wingtip patches and belly holes. After you have grafted
on the fabric and brushed on the nitrate (or polywhatever) grip
coat----brush on a wet coat of Dupont Velvaseal. Let it dry for
24 hrs. , it appears to be an air catalyzed formula. You use it
straight from the can, lacquer thinner turns it into a big clot.
On cars it will seal out any kind of prior coat. It comes in
gray and a putrid red-orange. It is great to sand and is quite
flexible. I have used it under Aerothane and was happy with
how it covers lumps, seams, zits. --Any questions, will be
happy to elaborate further. --BB
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Michael Peer <quick503(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: fabric patch |
Three quick questions on the Dupont Velvaseal.
1. How heavy is it?
2. How long has it been under the Aerothane without
cracking?
3. Have you used it on the whole airplane or just
spots?
Thanks, Mike
=====
This Information could save you both time and money!
Please visit my website at http://www.jemcomputersolutions.com
Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Michael Peer <quick503(at)yahoo.com> |
I'm curious about the amount of aileron travel on the
MK III. If you have a MK III and a few minutes free
time could you check for me? A Warp Drive Prop
protractor works great. I would really appreciate it.
Thanks, Mike
=====
This Information could save you both time and money!
Please visit my website at http://www.jemcomputersolutions.com
Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org> |
Subject: | Re: Aileron travel |
Since mine is in the garage for it's annual and some mods, could not check
out what it has, but can offer some insights: with the stock setup, mine
had excellent control authority, and the ailerons felt heavy. I modified
mine for less aileron travel by changing the spacing of the holes in the
bellcrank at the rear of the fuselage, and it now has about 25% less travel
than stock, still has excellent control authority, and light comfortable
ailerons. Bottom line: is it agile, will it deal with crosswinds, and do
you like it? (This is one of those areas where you can experiment
intelligently and fine tune the airplane to where you love it.)
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>
>I'm curious about the amount of aileron travel on the
>MK III. If you have a MK III and a few minutes free
>time could you check for me? A Warp Drive Prop
>protractor works great. I would really appreciate it.
>Thanks, Mike
>
>=====
>This Information could save you both time and money!
>Please visit my website at http://www.jemcomputersolutions.com
>
>Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Patty M" <pattym(at)lushen.com> |
Subject: | Re: ultrastar prop |
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Hauck" <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Sent: Sunday, March 18, 2001 10:33 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: ultrastar prop
> The Culver 50X30 would allow the Cuyuna II02 to bump the red
> line, 6,600 rpm, WOT, straight and level flight.
>
> What rpm are you flying to produce 45 - 50 mph? Will your
> Cuyuna turn 6,600 rpm WOT, straight and level?
John,
I get 45 mph at 4800 rpm and 50 mph at about 5500 rpm. I know this isn't
up to spec rpm but have only used WOT on warmups and takeoffs. Maybe I am
too cautious but this rpm range feels right when sitting up there taking in
the sites. Engine will rev to about 6200 rpm during warmup on the ground.
Thanks for the info
Phil MacGregor
Ultrastar-Cuyuna
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | slyck <slyck(at)frontiernet.net> |
I wouldn't recommend it for more than patchwork; 1. It's expensive
2. makes a mess of a spray gun 3. If it made your plane come out ugly,
you'd come back and shoot me.
...but, I had no cosmetic problems with age (I'm speaking about the
airplane here) on an old ceconite covered plane, and you don't have to
mess with the silver coat and all the extra steps. --BB
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Re: ultrastar prop |
Engine will rev to about 6200 rpm during warmup on the
ground.
> Thanks for the info
>
> Phil MacGregor
Phil and Gang:
Sounds like you are right in the ball park.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | WGeorge737(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Rotax 582 in-flight failure |
Hi Kolbers,
I must apologize for not sharing the story below sooner. The incident related
below created a frame of mind that would have prevented good responses to the
inevitable questions that would be posed by listers. The incident happened in
late December and I now feel fairly comfortable discussing it.
Background
Airplane: Kolb Mk-3 with Rotax 582, "C" box, Powerfin prop, hot coated
exhaust and Bing HAC carbs. Total time airframe and engine is 178 hours.
On a previous post flight inspection, I noticed a small amount of two-stroke
oil on the tail feathers. Closer inspection revealed that one of the small
plastic tubes that lead from the oil pump to the inlet nipples had a crack in
it. I ordered the tubes and new banjo fittings from Lockwood and had them
install the clamps on one end. I was extremely gun shy about squeezing of the
metal clamps and enlisted the help of an A&P to clamp the fittings to the
engine side.
Since there was no oil in the new tubes I elected to add about a 100-1 oil
mix to the fuel tanks, which were about half full. Fuel bowls were empty. The
idea was to be sure to have lubrication during start up until the tubes
filled with oil.
The engine was started and run for a few minutes and shut down. The tubes had
oil in them but there were a few air bubbles. The engine was started again
and the throttle cycled through moderate to low RPM for a minute or so and
shut down. This time the tubes were full of oil.
The flight
Since all looked normal, I decided to take a short flight. An additional
preflight was accomplished, the engine was started, and the airplane taxied
to the runway. A run up and mag check was performed and all was normal. I had
to hold in position on the runway for a longer than usual time for traffic.
When cleared for takeoff all was normal. RPM was 6400 and EGTs were normal.
Climb rate was normal for load and temperature. Reaching 2500 feet I was
looking for traffic that had been pointed out by departure control and
decided to level off. When I reduced power to 5800 RPM the engine immediately
seized.
I advised departure control that I would be landing in a field. There were
lots of high-tension wires around as I was in the vicinity of a power plant.
Found a field of grass and weeds that looked reasonable, though far from
level. I set up the approach and as I descended through about 500 feet I
became aware of the large rocks that had been uncovered by a field machine's
tines. Diameter varied from a foot or so to two feet and there were lots of
them.
Got a nice touchdown and began to try to avoid rocks. Did pretty well and was
almost stopped when I hit a couple of large ones. The left main gear strut
was bent backwards completely and the left wingtip touched the ground. The
right main was slight bent aft and the fabric was torn on the cockpit belly
left side. Thanks to Homer Kolb's design I had nary a bump or scratch and the
airplane had minimal damage. The engine was still seized and could not be
turned.
Post incident
I towed my trailer to the landing site and, with the help of a couple of very
strong folks, got it into the trailer and back home. The engine still could
not be turned Inspection of the engine still on the airplane showed full,
clean coolant, nearly full rotary valve oil, about 3/.4 full AV-2 two stroke
oil and slightly less that half tanks of fuel. All hoses and tubes were
attached and no physical damage could be seen.
The engine was removed from the airplane and put it on a table in my
workshop. The exhaust, carbs and plugs were pulled. There was a small amount
of two-stroke oil in the inlets. The exhaust port revealed the PTO piston
near the top of stroke. It is dull and has light score marks. The mag end
piston top is at the bottom of the port and the ring is visible. The top of
the piston is clean and free of carbon. Original hone marks are visible on
cylinder wall. Spark plugs were pulled and looked normal with no evidence of
overheating.
Summary
In over forty years of flying all types of airplanes this is the first engine
failure I have experienced. My airplane and engine have been meticulously
maintained. However, I do believe human intervention is a factor in two
stroke engine failures. For that reason, I have focused on the replacement of
the oil tubes as somehow being a critical element. Nonetheless, the
inspection done to date does not support it. Perhaps the teardown by a pro
will be revealing enough to determine the real cause of the failure
Bottom line
I will not fly a two-stroke powerplant again. I plan to sell the 582 with its
upgraded accessories as is and install either the 912 or the Jabiru package
on the Mk-3. I will be putting up a web page with photos of the engine
including close-ups of significant areas.
Inquiries regarding acquisition of the 582 should be sent via private email.
Fly safe
Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Tennesee Prop |
> My friend's Firestar KXP's prop appears to be turning a little fast for
the
> cruise he's getting; is a 66 X 34 the proper size?
>
> Somebody slap me!! It's a R-503 Dual Carb. engine.
>
> Shack
> FS I SC
I used to fly my FS II with R503 dual carb with a Tennessee 66x34 and it
seemed about right. I turned 6400 rpm at WOT. Cruised at 5900 rpm and 62 - 65
mph on a coolish day. I now am using an IVO and picked up a few mph with it
pitched at 6400 WOT.
Charlie
ulflyer(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Denny Rowe" <rowedl(at)alltel.net> |
Subject: | Re: Tennesee Prop |
I run a 66-34 Ritz blade on my Sport Parasol, 503 SC Free- Air, it turns
right around 6250rpm in flight full throttle. Level I get around 70-75mph
on the Hall brother ASI.
Denny Rowe
Building Mk-3 EXTRA-CLASSIC :-) Sounds like a Dave Thomas hamburger.
----- Original Message -----
From: <HShack(at)aol.com>
Sent: Sunday, March 18, 2001 10:20 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Tennesee Prop
>
> In a message dated 3/18/01 10:16:59 AM Eastern Standard Time,
HShack(at)aol.com
> writes:
>
>
> > My friend's Firestar KXP's prop appears to be turning a little fast for
the
> > cruise he's getting; is a 66 X 34 the proper size?
> >
> >
>
> Somebody slap me!! It's a R-503 Dual Carb. engine.
>
> Shack
> FS I
> SC
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | bob n <ronoy(at)shentel.net> |
Subject: | Aircraft Spruce site |
Aircraft Spruce has a new, improved web site at: www.AircraftSpruce.com.
Can order free big catalog there.
bn
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Skip Staub <skipnann(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Re: ultrastar prop |
> I have been smashing through the air
> > at 45 to 50 mph for many years and would like to try a little more speed if
> > it is there and usable.
> >
> > Phil MacGregor
> > Ultrastar-Cuyuna
The standard Culver 50x30 prop with the armored leading edge pushed my
UltraStar better than 60 mph. If not careful, I could over rev the engine
so it certainly wasn't pitched to high. The armored leading edge also
allowed me to cut lots of grass with no damage. One downside to the wooden
Culver prop and that is that it won't eat muffler bolts without
catastrophic damage. :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Michael Peer <quick503(at)yahoo.com> |
Naw, haven't shot anyone in quite awhile. Thanks for
the info.
Mike
=====
This Information could save you both time and money!
Please visit my website at http://www.jemcomputersolutions.com
Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | cajwoods(at)mindspring.com |
Subject: | Re: Rotax Service Bulletin 912/914 |
John,
I have Service Bulletin SB-912-022 from Rotax site. It says S/N 4922.501 to
4922.636 on 912S are affected. Do I have the wrong bulletin?
Bill Woods
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Hauck" <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Sent: Sunday, March 18, 2001 1:31 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Rotax Service Bulletin 912/914
>
> Greetings Gang:
>
> I was finally able to dig out the s/n's involved with the
> 912S valve keeper update:
>
> 4425.001 to 4426.604
>
> My s/n falls right in the middle of all those 912S s/n's:
>
> 4425.708
>
> Thought I had lucked out when I first found the numbers,
> then I realized the last number was 4426 not 4425. Horse
> manure!!!
>
> Take care and welcome to the "update club". We'll find out
> what our sentence is Monday morning............... :-(
>
> john h
>
> john h
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Re: Rotax Service Bulletin 912/914 |
> I have Service Bulletin SB-912-022 from Rotax site. It says S/N 4922.501 to
> 4922.636 on 912S are affected. Do I have the wrong bulletin?
> Bill Woods
> > I was finally able to dig out the s/n's involved with the
> > 912S valve keeper update:
> >
> > 4425.001 to 4426.604
> >
> > My s/n falls right in the middle of all those 912S s/n's:
> >
> > 4425.708
>john h
Bill and Gang:
What you see below is the range of 912SUL sn's affected by
the update. Looks like it begins with the first 912S and
includes another 1,603 912SUL's.
Rotax tries to confuse us by having two SB's, one for ul
version and one for certified version of 912S. However, the
912SUL SB only includes the sn's. One must then open the SB
for 912S certified engines to find out what, when, and where
to have the problem resolved.
SB 912-022 is for certified 912S.
SB 912-022UL is for UL 912S.
Based on when you bought your engine, also your Brother's
912S, plus John Russell, we all going to the Rotax shop and
gonna get us some new valve spring retainers.
I had planned to fly down to Ronnie Smith's as soon as I get
Miss P'fer flying, to have the gear box torsional vibration
dampners shimmed up as tight as possible. At Oshkosh last
year, we got our heads together and came up with this
procedure as a possible remedy for gear box chatter at start
up. Keep your fingers crossed that this will work.
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org> |
Subject: | Re: Rotax 582 in-flight failure |
My sympathies for your problems, glad you weren't hurt.
As far as two stroke failures, two strokes share one absolute
characteristic with four strokes, rotaries, or anything else:
there are no anomalies. Everything has a reason.
I suspect that some damage occurred during the flight
just prior to your discovery of the broken oil line, and it
blossomed into full blown failure on the incident flight.
I also suspect that there is no way to know for sure.
Excellent informative post.
Good luck with your new engine.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>Hi Kolbers,
>
>I must apologize for not sharing the story below sooner. The incident related
>below created a frame of mind that would have prevented good responses to the
>inevitable questions that would be posed by listers. The incident happened in
>late December and I now feel fairly comfortable discussing it.
>
>Background
>Airplane: Kolb Mk-3 with Rotax 582, "C" box, Powerfin prop, hot coated
>exhaust and Bing HAC carbs. Total time airframe and engine is 178 hours.
>
>On a previous post flight inspection, I noticed a small amount of two-stroke
>oil on the tail feathers. Closer inspection revealed that one of the small
>plastic tubes that lead from the oil pump to the inlet nipples had a crack in
>it. I ordered the tubes and new banjo fittings from Lockwood and had them
>install the clamps on one end. I was extremely gun shy about squeezing of the
>metal clamps and enlisted the help of an A&P to clamp the fittings to the
>engine side.
>
>Since there was no oil in the new tubes I elected to add about a 100-1 oil
>mix to the fuel tanks, which were about half full. Fuel bowls were empty. The
>idea was to be sure to have lubrication during start up until the tubes
>filled with oil.
>
>The engine was started and run for a few minutes and shut down. The tubes had
>oil in them but there were a few air bubbles. The engine was started again
>and the throttle cycled through moderate to low RPM for a minute or so and
>shut down. This time the tubes were full of oil.
>
>The flight
>Since all looked normal, I decided to take a short flight. An additional
>preflight was accomplished, the engine was started, and the airplane taxied
>to the runway. A run up and mag check was performed and all was normal. I had
>to hold in position on the runway for a longer than usual time for traffic.
>When cleared for takeoff all was normal. RPM was 6400 and EGTs were normal.
>Climb rate was normal for load and temperature. Reaching 2500 feet I was
>looking for traffic that had been pointed out by departure control and
>decided to level off. When I reduced power to 5800 RPM the engine immediately
>seized.
>
>I advised departure control that I would be landing in a field. There were
>lots of high-tension wires around as I was in the vicinity of a power plant.
>Found a field of grass and weeds that looked reasonable, though far from
>level. I set up the approach and as I descended through about 500 feet I
>became aware of the large rocks that had been uncovered by a field machine's
>tines. Diameter varied from a foot or so to two feet and there were lots of
>them.
>
>Got a nice touchdown and began to try to avoid rocks. Did pretty well and was
>almost stopped when I hit a couple of large ones. The left main gear strut
>was bent backwards completely and the left wingtip touched the ground. The
>right main was slight bent aft and the fabric was torn on the cockpit belly
>left side. Thanks to Homer Kolb's design I had nary a bump or scratch and the
>airplane had minimal damage. The engine was still seized and could not be
>turned.
>
>Post incident
>I towed my trailer to the landing site and, with the help of a couple of very
>strong folks, got it into the trailer and back home. The engine still could
>not be turned Inspection of the engine still on the airplane showed full,
>clean coolant, nearly full rotary valve oil, about 3/.4 full AV-2 two stroke
>oil and slightly less that half tanks of fuel. All hoses and tubes were
>attached and no physical damage could be seen.
>
>The engine was removed from the airplane and put it on a table in my
>workshop. The exhaust, carbs and plugs were pulled. There was a small amount
>of two-stroke oil in the inlets. The exhaust port revealed the PTO piston
>near the top of stroke. It is dull and has light score marks. The mag end
>piston top is at the bottom of the port and the ring is visible. The top of
>the piston is clean and free of carbon. Original hone marks are visible on
>cylinder wall. Spark plugs were pulled and looked normal with no evidence of
>overheating.
>
>Summary
>In over forty years of flying all types of airplanes this is the first engine
>failure I have experienced. My airplane and engine have been meticulously
>maintained. However, I do believe human intervention is a factor in two
>stroke engine failures. For that reason, I have focused on the replacement of
>the oil tubes as somehow being a critical element. Nonetheless, the
>inspection done to date does not support it. Perhaps the teardown by a pro
>will be revealing enough to determine the real cause of the failure
>
>Bottom line
>I will not fly a two-stroke powerplant again. I plan to sell the 582 with its
>upgraded accessories as is and install either the 912 or the Jabiru package
>on the Mk-3. I will be putting up a web page with photos of the engine
>including close-ups of significant areas.
>
>Inquiries regarding acquisition of the 582 should be sent via private email.
>
>Fly safe
>
>Bill
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | b young <byoung(at)brigham.net> |
Subject: | 912 service bulletin |
i downloaded the page and for the 912 s it says from s/n
4922501 to s/n 4922636
if it is a 912 uls the serial number from s/n 4425001 to
s/n 4426604
my 912 is right in the middle of the s/n ranges. for
the 912 ul from s/n 4401880 to s/n 4404123
it list the parts needed and a set of tools needed. could
we buy 1 set of tools and pass them around.
boyd
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)msn.com> |
Subject: | Re: Lar's Pooter |
Naw, it was more than 1 sentence; I'd a choked. In all serious-ness, are
you happier with 98 ?? If so, why ?? Best answer off List. Come on
guys.............what to do about my new double receiving ?? Not that I
don't like hearing from you-all, but Double ?? Tired out
Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.biglar.homestead.com/larry.html
.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Pike" <richard(at)BCChapel.org>
Sent: Sunday, March 18, 2001 8:54 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Lar's Pooter
>
> Windows ME? Less cranky? Smooth things out? Lar? All in the same sentence?
> What's wrong with this picture?
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)msn.com> |
Subject: | Re: Sunday's Flight |
You sure have a lot of fun with those planes. Keep it up, and the great
pictures, too. You'd be right at home to the north and east of Palm
Springs, right down to the huge open pit mine. Ours is at Iron Mountain,
and goes for miles. Interesting sight-seeing. Thanks.
Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.biglar.homestead.com/larry.html
.
----- Original Message -----
From: <WillUribe(at)aol.com>
Sent: Sunday, March 18, 2001 9:13 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Sunday's Flight
>
> Greetings,
> Dave and I were going to Albuquerque for a fly in this weekend but it was
> canceled do to high winds.
> So instead we flew for 5:31 hours and 335 miles to Silver City, NM.
> Here are some of the pictures I took.>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | WGeorge737(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Not getting mesages |
HI Gang,
If there were any messages on-list regarding my 582 seizure post that should
have elicited some response please note that I didn't get them.
I subscribe in the "digest" mode. This morning it showed 31 messages, but
when I opened it there was only one. The other thirty are in etherland
somewhere. Maybe they'll show up later.
Bill G
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | bob n <ronoy(at)shentel.net> |
punch up www.mirreentry.com for a whole buncha info on the dying
swan dive of ol' Mir.
bn
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: 912 service bulletin |
From: | Ray L Baker <rbaker2(at)juno.com> |
Boyd,
Sounds like a good idea to me. I have not been able to find the page
that gives the parts and tools needed.
Ray
>
> i downloaded the page and for the 912 s it says from s/n
> 4922501 to s/n 4922636
>
> if it is a 912 uls the serial number from s/n 4425001 to
>
> s/n 4426604
>
> my 912 is right in the middle of the s/n ranges. for
> the 912 ul from s/n 4401880 to s/n 4404123
>
> it list the parts needed and a set of tools needed. could
>
> we buy 1 set of tools and pass them around.
>
> boyd
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Kottke, Dwight" <dkottke(at)scherping.carlisle.com> |
Subject: | Rotax 582 in-flight failure |
Bill, I may have a possible explanation for your seizure. I was a Yamaha
snowmobile mechanic for many years and have seen this type of situation. In
the early days people were afraid that their oil injection system was not
working so they would also and there own premix. The extra oil would load up
on the crank rod bearing, not allowing it to turn and take it our in a
matter of seconds. Too much oil in a two stroke can be as bad as not enough.
Removing the cylinders would tell the story. If the pistons and cylinders
are fine and the crank is still stuck, you may have your answer.
-----Original Message-----
From: WGeorge737(at)aol.com [mailto:WGeorge737(at)aol.com]
Sent: Sunday, March 18, 2001 3:49 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Rotax 582 in-flight failure
Hi Kolbers,
I must apologize for not sharing the story below sooner. The incident
related
below created a frame of mind that would have prevented good responses to
the
inevitable questions that would be posed by listers. The incident happened
in
late December and I now feel fairly comfortable discussing it.
Background
Airplane: Kolb Mk-3 with Rotax 582, "C" box, Powerfin prop, hot coated
exhaust and Bing HAC carbs. Total time airframe and engine is 178 hours.
On a previous post flight inspection, I noticed a small amount of two-stroke
oil on the tail feathers. Closer inspection revealed that one of the small
plastic tubes that lead from the oil pump to the inlet nipples had a crack
in
it. I ordered the tubes and new banjo fittings from Lockwood and had them
install the clamps on one end. I was extremely gun shy about squeezing of
the
metal clamps and enlisted the help of an A&P to clamp the fittings to the
engine side.
Since there was no oil in the new tubes I elected to add about a 100-1 oil
mix to the fuel tanks, which were about half full. Fuel bowls were empty.
The
idea was to be sure to have lubrication during start up until the tubes
filled with oil.
The engine was started and run for a few minutes and shut down. The tubes
had
oil in them but there were a few air bubbles. The engine was started again
and the throttle cycled through moderate to low RPM for a minute or so and
shut down. This time the tubes were full of oil.
The flight
Since all looked normal, I decided to take a short flight. An additional
preflight was accomplished, the engine was started, and the airplane taxied
to the runway. A run up and mag check was performed and all was normal. I
had
to hold in position on the runway for a longer than usual time for traffic.
When cleared for takeoff all was normal. RPM was 6400 and EGTs were normal.
Climb rate was normal for load and temperature. Reaching 2500 feet I was
looking for traffic that had been pointed out by departure control and
decided to level off. When I reduced power to 5800 RPM the engine
immediately
seized.
I advised departure control that I would be landing in a field. There were
lots of high-tension wires around as I was in the vicinity of a power plant.
Found a field of grass and weeds that looked reasonable, though far from
level. I set up the approach and as I descended through about 500 feet I
became aware of the large rocks that had been uncovered by a field machine's
tines. Diameter varied from a foot or so to two feet and there were lots of
them.
Got a nice touchdown and began to try to avoid rocks. Did pretty well and
was
almost stopped when I hit a couple of large ones. The left main gear strut
was bent backwards completely and the left wingtip touched the ground. The
right main was slight bent aft and the fabric was torn on the cockpit belly
left side. Thanks to Homer Kolb's design I had nary a bump or scratch and
the
airplane had minimal damage. The engine was still seized and could not be
turned.
Post incident
I towed my trailer to the landing site and, with the help of a couple of
very
strong folks, got it into the trailer and back home. The engine still could
not be turned Inspection of the engine still on the airplane showed full,
clean coolant, nearly full rotary valve oil, about 3/.4 full AV-2 two stroke
oil and slightly less that half tanks of fuel. All hoses and tubes were
attached and no physical damage could be seen.
The engine was removed from the airplane and put it on a table in my
workshop. The exhaust, carbs and plugs were pulled. There was a small amount
of two-stroke oil in the inlets. The exhaust port revealed the PTO piston
near the top of stroke. It is dull and has light score marks. The mag end
piston top is at the bottom of the port and the ring is visible. The top of
the piston is clean and free of carbon. Original hone marks are visible on
cylinder wall. Spark plugs were pulled and looked normal with no evidence of
overheating.
Summary
In over forty years of flying all types of airplanes this is the first
engine
failure I have experienced. My airplane and engine have been meticulously
maintained. However, I do believe human intervention is a factor in two
stroke engine failures. For that reason, I have focused on the replacement
of
the oil tubes as somehow being a critical element. Nonetheless, the
inspection done to date does not support it. Perhaps the teardown by a pro
will be revealing enough to determine the real cause of the failure
Bottom line
I will not fly a two-stroke powerplant again. I plan to sell the 582 with
its
upgraded accessories as is and install either the 912 or the Jabiru package
on the Mk-3. I will be putting up a web page with photos of the engine
including close-ups of significant areas.
Inquiries regarding acquisition of the 582 should be sent via private email.
Fly safe
Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Ole Noetnes <onoetnes(at)online.no> |
Subject: | Re: Rotax 582 in-flight failure |
Kottke, Dwight wrote:
>
>
> Bill, I may have a possible explanation for your seizure. I was a Yamaha
> snowmobile mechanic for many years and have seen this type of situation. In
> the early days people were afraid that their oil injection system was not
> working so they would also and there own premix. The extra oil would load up
> on the crank rod bearing, not allowing it to turn and take it our in a
> matter of seconds. Too much oil in a two stroke can be as bad as not enough.
> Removing the cylinders would tell the story. If the pistons and cylinders
> are fine and the crank is still stuck, you may have your answer.
>
my thought entirely, dwight.
i've seen this happen to other people who didn't trust the oil injection
and mixed in another percent for good measure. close examination showed
that bearings had marks of exessive heat build up, as the lube didn't
carry away the heat rapidly enough.
ole
twinstar mk2 in norway
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | bob n <ronoy(at)shentel.net> |
Subject: | Re: Not getting mesages |
Biglar,
I'd gladly trade you a flock of the msgs I get--including the ones I
sent!
bn
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Eugene H Zimmerman <tehz(at)redrose.net> |
Subject: | A few flying picts 1980 to 2001 |
Hi listers,
I'm a long time lurker member. I've tried recently to do a web page with
a little of my UL experiences. My experience with UL flying goes back
more than 20 yr. I've probably reached geezer status by now and I'd
rather be flying than learning html so my web stuff is rather primitive.
Some of the picts are very poor quality but have historical value for
me. I won't be surprised if some people react to some of it too.
Your welcome to check it out,
Eugene Zimmerman
http://users.supernet.com/tehz/My%20Fun.html
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | SGreenpg(at)aol.com |
Kolbers,
There are some pictures of my recently completed Mark III at the following
address. http://www.flyultralites.com
They are on the last page of pictures.
There will probably be a fly-in at the field that this website represents, so
book mark it and watch for an announcement. Maybe we can get more Kolbs
there than Challengers this year.
I am planning to fly to Sun-N-Fun this year and hope to meet some of you.
Steven Green
Etowah TN
N58SG
MK III 30 hrs.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Denny Rowe" <rowedl(at)alltel.net> |
Steve,
If your Mk-3 is the white, red and yellow one, all I can say is hubba hubba
hubba!
Nice work!
Hope mine comes close to that.
What paint did you use?
Denny
----- Original Message -----
From: <SGreenpg(at)aol.com>
Sent: Monday, March 19, 2001 6:15 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: N58SG Pics.
>
> Kolbers,
>
> There are some pictures of my recently completed Mark III at the following
> address. http://www.flyultralites.com
> They are on the last page of pictures.
> There will probably be a fly-in at the field that this website represents,
so
> book mark it and watch for an announcement. Maybe we can get more Kolbs
> there than Challengers this year.
>
> I am planning to fly to Sun-N-Fun this year and hope to meet some of you.
>
> Steven Green
> Etowah TN
> N58SG
> MK III 30 hrs.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org> |
Subject: | Re: A few flying picts 1980 to 2001 |
Excellent page, very well done, brought back old memories.
Especially since I used to have an Easy Riser also.
(How did we ever survive?)
Enjoyed the testimony, thank you.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>Hi listers,
>
>I'm a long time lurker member. I've tried recently to do a web page with
>a little of my UL experiences. My experience with UL flying goes back
>more than 20 yr. I've probably reached geezer status by now and I'd
>rather be flying than learning html so my web stuff is rather primitive.
>Some of the picts are very poor quality but have historical value for
>me. I won't be surprised if some people react to some of it too.
>
>Your welcome to check it out,
>Eugene Zimmerman
>
>http://users.supernet.com/tehz/My%20Fun.html
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Richard Swiderski" <swiderskir(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Re: A few flying picts 1980 to 2001 |
Eugene,
You did great on your website! I still have mine on my "to do" list.
Its always good to see another aviator recognize the majesty of God in the
gift of flight. Your picture from 10,000ft brought back a wonderful memory
of taking my Cuyuna powered UltraStar to 11,600. I did it on a whim one
winter day when I was wearing a snow mobile suit I was getting about 50 fpm
climb & the EGT's were down to 750 degrees. I was shivering real bad (This
FL boy is a whimp for cold) so I idled back & hit the kill switch. It was
one of my most memorable dead sticks. It lasted just shy of or just over 30
minutes of pure beautiful silence with a view of the Atlantic & Gulf.
...Richard Swiderski
----- Original Message -----
From: "Eugene H Zimmerman" <tehz(at)redrose.net>
Sent: Monday, March 19, 2001 5:21 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: A few flying picts 1980 to 2001
>
> Hi listers,
>
> I'm a long time lurker member. I've tried recently to do a web page with
> a little of my UL experiences. My experience with UL flying goes back
> more than 20 yr. I've probably reached geezer status by now and I'd
> rather be flying than learning html so my web stuff is rather primitive.
> Some of the picts are very poor quality but have historical value for
> me. I won't be surprised if some people react to some of it too.
>
> Your welcome to check it out,
> Eugene Zimmerman
>
> http://users.supernet.com/tehz/My%20Fun.html
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)msn.com> |
What made the difference, Will ?? Not your usual standard. Different
camera ?? Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.biglar.homestead.com/larry.html
.
----- Original Message -----
From: <WillUribe(at)aol.com>
Sent: Monday, March 19, 2001 10:43 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Sunday
>
> In a message dated 3/19/01 7:33:32 PM Eastern Standard Time, writes:
>
> >> Will you surprized me. First time I remember a set of pics and not
one
> > air
> > >to air. Really good pics tho. Thanks
>
> Bob
> I did take some air to air pictures yesterday.
> We landed at the Las Cruces breakfast/fly-in and met a hurricane driver
from
> near Silver City, he invited us to his home/landing strip. We had to fly
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | JIMMY HANKINSON <jhankin(at)planters.net> |
Received 0 messages yesterday.
Received 2 of 17 messages today.
What's wrong!!!!!!!
Jimmy
Firefly #35
Southeast Georgia
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Hans van Alphen" <HVA(at)bellsouth.net> |
Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 17 Msgs - 03/19/01 |
Received just one message out of 17 this morning, something is wrong!!!!
-----Original Message-----
From: Kolb-List Digest Server <kolb-list-digest(at)matronics.com>
Date: Tuesday, March 20, 2001 4:00 AM
Subject: Kolb-List Digest: 17 Msgs - 03/19/01
>*
> Kolb-List Digest Archive
> ---
> Total Messages Posted Mon 03/19/01: 17
>
>
>___________________________________________________________________________
_____
>From: dixieshack(at)webtv.net (orie shackelford)
>Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Kolb-List Digest--disappeared
>
>
>Hey guys, anyone else lose their list Monday A.M.? Subject line came in
>identifying 31 messages but the only one listed was Big Lar's message
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Eugene H Zimmerman <tehz(at)redrose.net> |
Thanks to all for your kind comments about the web page.
http://users.supernet.com/tehz/My%20Fun.html
|
_____|_____
*============================R============================*
\ /
\ /
(/---\)
\___/
/ \
() ()
Eugene Zimmerman
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | slyck <slyck(at)frontiernet.net> |
Subject: | Moller International |
Regarding the Solotrek (thrill ride) --Check out this decades-old scam
The Skycar, perpetually in developement ..loooking for some new
investors.
http://www.moller.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dave Leaf" <705460(at)ican.net> |
Subject: | Re: firestar cover |
Anybody know where to buy an outdoor cover for a Firestar ?, I may have to
store my airplane outside and I'd like to keep it from filling up with water
! , Even if I could buy the right kind of fabric perhaps I could make one
myself.
Thanks,
Dave Leaf
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: firestar cover |
From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com |
Dave,
Check with a marina and get a boat cover.
>
> Anybody know where to buy an outdoor cover for a Firestar ?, I may
> have to
> store my airplane outside and I'd like to keep it from filling up
> with water
> ! , Even if I could buy the right kind of fabric perhaps I could
> make one
> myself.
>
> Thanks,
>
>
> Dave Leaf
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)msn.com> |
Subject: | Re: firestar cover |
A few months ago, I contacted the people who make covers for certified
airplanes, and they told me the material they use is called "Sunbrella."
Said any upholstery shop should be able to order it. Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.biglar.homestead.com/larry.html
.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave Leaf" <705460(at)ican.net>
Sent: Wednesday, March 21, 2001 3:58 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: firestar cover
>
> Anybody know where to buy an outdoor cover for a Firestar ?, I may have to
> store my airplane outside and I'd like to keep it from filling up with
water
> ! , Even if I could buy the right kind of fabric perhaps I could make one
> myself.
>
> Thanks,
>
>
> Dave Leaf
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Timandjan(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: firestar cover |
I had a custom cover made for my Firestar2, it is made from the same fabric
that boat cover are made from. It is custom to fit over the fuselage area and
I also had a cover that goes around and over the engine and BRS chute. The
whole cover is complete and really nice, but it was pricy. If I remember
correctly, I was near $500.00. But the uplhostery man that did it, said that
the meterial itself is very expensive. He made a complete set of patterns
that I have, like he does for all his work. I remember watching him, it took
a long time just to mark and make the patterns. He also does custom airplane
interiors and did my seat upholstery, real awsom work.
The covers are great for trailering and storing. Might be overkill, but when
I build the plane I went all out.
I don't get to fly much, so I share a hangar and keep my plane folded in the
back of a hangar and keep it covered.
Tim
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | St. Elmo Al Fly-In |
EAA 1209 St Elmo Alabama (2R5) is hosting its 4th annual spring fly inn Saturday
March 31st. Everyone is welcome! Bring a lawn chair. You are welcome to camp
on the field Friday and Saturday nights if you want to.
Door prizes will be given away!
10 Gallons of gas will be given to who ever flies the farthest distance to attend.
This is our fourth fly-in and they just seem to keep getting better! Ask John
Hauck...he fly Ms Pfer in one year!
We fly for fun at 1209. Everyone and all aircraft are welcome!
Come and see us anytime...especially March 31st!
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)msn.com> |
Subject: | Re: Solotrek ????? |
I have GOT to start looking before answering. Tim, I thought that was
direct to me. List-ers, I'm sorry. No excuse..........just didn't look.
Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.biglar.homestead.com/larry.html
.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)msn.com>
Sent: Thursday, March 22, 2001 7:11 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Solotrek ?????
>
> Asshole. Whatever happened to Brooklyn Bridge ?? You're right near
there,>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Dale Seitzer <dale(at)gmada.com> |
Subject: | 447 engine problem |
Last Saturday Bettie and I went flying on lake Minnetonka--beautiful
day--calm winds--bright clear sky and temps in the upper 30's. Ralph
Burlingame, Gary Voight and I were on the lake and looking forward to a
long day of flight.
Bettie and I set up the plane --did a thorough preflight and I went up for
a short 10 minute flight, landed and Bettie went out for 30 minutes and
made several landings and stopped without incident. When I got ready for
my turn, the engine turned over and then locked up. We could not even
move the prop more than a couple of inches.
We removed the engine and gearbox and brought it to a tech near here
thinking the worst--a blown engine maybe--The engine has 400 hours and
never been opened
The tech said the pistons are clean, rings free and the bearings seem
ok--he thought it was in the flywheel/ignition and when he took it apart he
found a flywheel bolt had come out, wore down the flywheel and then was
lodged in and prevented the engine from turning. He confirmed the piston,
rings and crankshaft are ok but the flywheel must be replaced. He
STRONGLY encouraged a complete overhaul along with a new or used flywheel.
The price for that would be almost the price of a new engine without
gearbox. I did not remove the flywheel when I tuned it up last but I did
not check those bolts either. Lukily there was no in flight problem but I
will be better at checking every bolt and nut.
I have located a used 447 with 80 hours from a local UL pilot and will
purchase it.
We will be back in the air soon.
Dale Seitzer
Original Firestar
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Re: St. Elmo Al Fly-In |
> EAA 1209 St Elmo Alabama (2R5) is hosting its 4th annual spring fly inn Saturday
March 31st. Everyone is welcome! Bring a lawn chair. You are welcome to
camp on the field Friday and Saturday nights if you want to.
Morning Gang:
This is a good flyin. I attended two years ago. Would have
attended last year, but was installing 912S and updating the
MK III. Unfortunately, will not be able to make it this
year because of repairs. Wish I could though. Maybe next
year.
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)msn.com> |
Here's partial atonement for my earlier boo-boo. I was just reading the
latest issue of Water Flying, and a story about Lake Amphibians. A
picture in the article made me think of John Hauck, so I scanned and
published it, and you can see it at:
http://www.flyingpics.homestead.com/files/Amphibian.jpg . John, can you
tell us where this pic was taken. I think you
have.............fond...........memories of it ?? ?? ??
Unfortunately, the original in the magazine is only about 2" x 4", and
not too clear, so it didn't scan too well. Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.biglar.homestead.com/larry.html
.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Woody <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
Subject: | Re: Solotrek ????? |
>
>.. i can't remember the name of it - "Dreamwings", yeh that's
>it! always looking for another deposit, always looking for another
>"investor". i don't trust any company that does business that way. they're
>always underfunded, always a day late and a dollar short.
Whenever you see an ad for a company do not buy it by the artists
concept or a computer generated image of it flying. Wait till it has flown
before you invest any money. I did buy an aeroplane once back in 1980 and
the ad only had a line drawing of what I wanted. Still not trusting sending
my money to someone I don't know through the mail I elected to go down to
Pheonixville Pa. and pick it up myself. Turns out it was a reputable
company after all.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | David Hempy <dhempy(at)dlmail.ket.org> |
Subject: | Re: firestar cover |
>
>Anybody know where to buy an outdoor cover for a Firestar ?, I may have to
>store my airplane outside and I'd like to keep it from filling up with water
>! , Even if I could buy the right kind of fabric perhaps I could make one
>myself.
Just last week I got Roger Mann's hangar plans. It involves erecting 1.25"
tubing (like that used in chain link fence top rails) into arches. These
arches are then covered with a silver tarp. Estimated cost to build:
$500. Semi-portable...more like relocatable actually.
You can read about the plans
here: http://members.aol.com/~ragwingman/ragwing-aircraft/raghanger.html
They are $15 and worth it. Not the most high-tech plans I've seen, but
then again neither is the hangar. I hope I have the need to build one someday.
-dave
--
David Hempy
Internet Database Administrator
Kentucky Educational Television - Distance Learning Division
-- (859)258-7164 -- (800)333-9764
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Ksbroste(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Firestar II Fuel Tanks |
What is the most efficient positioning of the fuel tanks (2) in terms of
refueling and positioning of the vent and supply lines? Thanks.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: difficulty with digest list |
Dear list,
I sent a request looking for parts for brakes for my Mk2 and then was unable
to retrieve any responses I might have gotten from you guys because of
trouble with my ISP.
Let me try again. I have an 88 model Mk2 with disc brakes operated
mechanically by a single bicycle lever. They were stock parts(although
optional) for Kolbs at the time I purchased the kit. Because of my own
faulty adjustment, I ate through the brake pads and then proceeded to chew
up the discs with the rivits in the pads. What I need to get my brakes back
online is new pads and discs. Does anybody have any idea where I might find
these parts?
Steve Kroll
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Richard Swiderski" <swiderskir(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Rotax 912/912S Specs |
Listers,
Anyone out there have the torque values (with rpm) for the 912
and/or the 912S? I've seen the horsepower ratings but not the torque
ratings. Thanks for your trouble. ...Richard Swiderski
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Mike Lovett" <lovett(at)aerotwin.com> |
Subject: | Rotax 912/912S Specs |
Dont know if this will help, but the following relationship is
always true:
Torque(ft-lb) = (SHP x 5252)/RPM
-------------------------
> Listers,
>
> Anyone out there have the torque values (with rpm) for the 912
> and/or the 912S? I've seen the horsepower ratings but not the torque
> ratings. Thanks for your trouble. ...Richard Swiderski
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Re: Rotax 912/912S Specs |
Anyone out there have the torque values (with rpm) for
the 912
> and/or the 912S? ...Richard Swiderski
Richard:
This url will get you to the 4 strokes, then click on the
one you want:
http://www.kodiakbs.com/4intro.htm
912 81 hp @ 5800 (5 minutes)
79 hp @ 5500
75.9 ft lb tor @ 4800
912S 100 hp @ 5800 (5 minutes)
95 hp @ 5500
94 ft lb tor @ 5100
I like it. I can cruise at 5200 fully loaded for the Alaska
flight and get 85 mph with 25 gal fuel on board. Aprx 80 at
5000. Puts me right in the best torque bracket.
NOTE**** The fuselage just went in the trailer and the
wings are in the mole hole. Now I got to figure out how to
reconfigure so I can work in there. I don't remember the
shop being that crowded before. At least I can start on the
wings now.
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | KHe1144783(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Gap Seal Tape |
Where can I get the 3M 845 Gap Seal Tape in 1 /12 and 3 inch width ? All I
can find at the Super Office stores is 2 inch. Area 51 ? Kris
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Firestar II Fuel Tanks |
I would place them with the filler openings facing each other (towards the
middle). If not, the front tank may hit the rear seat passenger in the back.
I also opted to drill holes in the top of the tanks and run the fuel lines in
there. There is something about drilling holes in the bottom of the fuel
tanks that I found disconcerting.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Gdledbetter(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Gap Seal Tape |
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Gdledbetter(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Gap Seal Tape |
Check out the following web site for the gap seal tape.
Gene Ledbetter
Cincinnati, OH
Firefly 00-2-00018, both canopies, big wheels and brakes, Ivo 2 blade
http://www.db-secure.com/zz230/21/products.asp?param=0&ig_id=2531
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Dale Seitzer <dale(at)gmada.com> |
Subject: | Free Air 447 on a Kolb Firestar |
I have a line on a newer 447 but it is a free air engine--anybody ever seen
a Kolb Firestar with a free air engine? My old engine is a points
ignition and the free air one is CDI--I believe I can make the switch over
but I am curious about the lighter engine and a little more power vs fan
cooled.
Dale Seitzer
Original Firestar
St. PAul
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | KHe1144783(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Gap Seal Tape |
In a message dated 3/23/01 6:12:37 AM Pacific Standard Time, rbaker2(at)juno.com
writes:
<< got mine at Florida Office Supply in Gainesville, FL. They were here
before Office Depot and Office Max. They had to order the 3" . It only
took a couple of days. Office Depot offered to order it for me also.
>>
Thanks, I'll order it, thought I was just in the wrong store. Kris
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Kottke, Dwight" <dkottke(at)scherping.carlisle.com> |
Subject: | Free Air 447 on a Kolb Firestar |
Dale, I asked this same question earlier and was told the free air motor
should only be used in a tractor configuration.
-----Original Message-----
From: Dale Seitzer [mailto:dale(at)gmada.com]
Sent: Friday, March 23, 2001 10:52 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Free Air 447 on a Kolb Firestar
I have a line on a newer 447 but it is a free air engine--anybody ever seen
a Kolb Firestar with a free air engine? My old engine is a points
ignition and the free air one is CDI--I believe I can make the switch over
but I am curious about the lighter engine and a little more power vs fan
cooled.
Dale Seitzer
Original Firestar
St. PAul
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Denny Rowe" <rowedl(at)alltel.net> |
Subject: | Re: Free Air 447 on a Kolb Firestar |
Dale,
I manufacture and sale Free-Air scoops for air cooled Rotax engines, the
free-air setup should only be used in the tractor configuration.
If you are keeping your old engine, just use the parts from it to convert
your new engine to fan cooled.
Denny
----- Original Message -----
From: Dale Seitzer <dale(at)gmada.com>
Sent: Friday, March 23, 2001 11:51 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Free Air 447 on a Kolb Firestar
>
> I have a line on a newer 447 but it is a free air engine--anybody ever
seen
> a Kolb Firestar with a free air engine? My old engine is a points
> ignition and the free air one is CDI--I believe I can make the switch over
> but I am curious about the lighter engine and a little more power vs fan
> cooled.
>
> Dale Seitzer
> Original Firestar
> St. PAul
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Gary r. voigt" <johndeereantique(at)uswest.net> |
Subject: | reccommend pilot log book |
Can anyone recommend a good pilot log book... I,am not
happy with the one i received from cps... too much useless
information.
and don't want to purchase 3 different log books for pilot,
engine maint. and air frame...would like one book that would
contain extra space for these logs. what are the rest of you
using.
p.s. winter flying has been good for the latter part of
winter on lk. minnetonka!!!!!
thanks,
Gary r. voigt
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Re: reccommend pilot log book |
don't want to purchase 3 different log books for pilot,
> engine maint. and air frame...would like one book that would
> contain extra space for these logs. what are the rest of you
> using.
> Gary r. voigt
Gary and Gang:
I use three, eng, airframe, and me da pilot.
When I was flying the Firestar and Ultrastar I used a
version of an UL logbook that was real good. I think I got
those free from EAA, but that was years ago. If you get to
Sun and Fun or Oshkosh, you can scout around and maybe find
something you like.
If you go with three, a half gal zip lock bag or maybe it is
a gal zip lock bag makes an excellent place to stow all your
log books and paper work for yourself and you airplane.
Had to go look. I am now using a Hefty One Zip Storage
Slider Bag with the "easy close slider", 1 gal size. :-)
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Roger M. Derby" <derbyrm(at)seidata.com> |
Subject: | Re: reccommend pilot log book |
Having your log books at home has advantages in certain circumstances. It
also reduces weight.
My flight log has moved onto my computer in the form of a database which
allows quick reports on all kinds of different questions that insurance
companies ask; e.g. tail-dragger time, landings in the last 90 days, hours
flown in the last year, etc.
Roger
http://www.seidata.com/~derbyrm
derbyrm(at)seidata.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Hauck" <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Sent: Friday, March 23, 2001 5:00 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: reccommend pilot log book
>
> don't want to purchase 3 different log books for pilot,
> > engine maint. and air frame...would like one book that would
> > contain extra space for these logs. what are the rest of you
> > using.
>
> > Gary r. voigt
>
> Gary and Gang:
>
> I use three, eng, airframe, and me da pilot.
>
> When I was flying the Firestar and Ultrastar I used a
> version of an UL logbook that was real good. I think I got
> those free from EAA, but that was years ago. If you get to
> Sun and Fun or Oshkosh, you can scout around and maybe find
> something you like.
>
> If you go with three, a half gal zip lock bag or maybe it is
> a gal zip lock bag makes an excellent place to stow all your
> log books and paper work for yourself and you airplane.
>
> Had to go look. I am now using a Hefty One Zip Storage
> Slider Bag with the "easy close slider", 1 gal size. :-)
>
> Take care,
>
> john h
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)msn.com> |
Subject: | Re: my slow rebuild |
Sometimes fixing what's broke is tougher than building it to begin with.
I like your ideas with the epoxy..........makes sense, and I'm going to look
at it further. At work we have the double barrelled plunger epoxy outfits,
with replaceable mixer tips. Seems like they'd be just the ticket for what
you're saying. Vamoose' tailfeathers will be done this weekend, then
he'll start on the wings, while I finish hooking up the engine. Should have
startup soon. Do you have an e.t. of completion for your plane ??
Be in touch. Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.biglar.homestead.com/larry.html
.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ben Ransom" <bwr000(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Sunday, March 04, 2001 12:44 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: my slow rebuild
>
>
> --- larrybiglar wrote:
> >
> >
> > It's a pleasant surprise hearing from you after all this time. I had
> > hoped
> > to hear you say your rebuild was finished. How can you stand it ??
>
> Thanks Lar. I had hoped I'd be able to say I was finished too. But,
> my project has been a back-burner, and the front burners have had a
> lot cookin. The slowness of my rebuild hasn't really bothered me.
> However, I'll certainly admit to some frustrating times when I've>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jack & Louise Hart <jbhart(at)ldd.net> |
Subject: | Firefly Speed Data |
Is there anyone out there that has accumulated best indicated speed data
for a Firefly, such as,
Climb
Best rate
Best angle
Glide
Best distance
Minimum sink?
If so, what values did you get?
Jack & Louise Hart
jbhart(at)ldd.net
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | TAILDRAGGER503(at)aol.com |
Subject: | 3/16" RIVETS with Firestar Kit ? |
Did anyone receive 3/16" rivets with the Firestar kit?
Dave Snyder Long Branch ,N.J. Building FSII
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bryan Olson" <olson1bj(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Another world up there. |
Firestar
503 DCDI
Tundra tires
70 hrs. total time
I have ben lurking for about a year know, decided to step out.
I bought this plane partially built and finished it last july.
Did about a week of taxiing then on july 21 I soloed in this little
plane. What a lot of fun, its like another world up there.
Bryan Olson, Lisbon, ND
olson1bj(at)hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle) |
Subject: | Issues with Daily Kolb Digest Posting... |
Hi Kolbers,
I am aware of the problem with missing messages in the
daily Kolb Digest posting. I believe that there is
someone that is posting messages with some odd control
character that is causing the process to abort early.
I've put some diag code in place today to see if I can't
maybe figure out what's going on. In the mean time, if
you don't want to lose any postings I would suggest that
you subscribe to the realtime version of the List. The
subscription URL is:
http://www.matronics.com/subscribe
I will post a follow up message as soon as I figure out
what's going on.
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Email List Admin.
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
Great minds discuss ideas,
Average minds discuss events,
Small minds discuss people...
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Gary r. voigt" <johndeereantique(at)uswest.net> |
Subject: | Re: Another world up there. |
Brian, glad you like it...I too lurked on the list for about a year
and a half and bought mine mostly built!!! soloed this last jan. off the
ice...i love flying 15' agl off the ice for a 7 mile stretch. your
right... it is another world up there...try scuba diving through the
frozen ice below @75' ...I have been to H..........but like heaven a lot
more. lisbon is about a 4 hr. trip from excelsior, mn. I may want to try
it sometime. only if you can give me some good leads on antique
stationary 1 cylinder gas engines. hehehe!!!
thanks,
Gary r. voigt
excelsior
1996 kxp 15 hrs.
Bryan Olson wrote:
>
> Firestar
> 503 DCDI
> Tundra tires
> 70 hrs. total time
> I have ben lurking for about a year know, decided to step out.
> I bought this plane partially built and finished it last july.
> Did about a week of taxiing then on july 21 I soloed in this little
> plane. What a lot of fun, its like another world up there.
>
> Bryan Olson, Lisbon, ND
> olson1bj(at)hotmail.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | JIMMY HANKINSON <jhankin(at)planters.net> |
I have a Firefly with a 447 rotax with either 5 or 6" tires, what tire
pressure should I be using?
Jimmy
Firefly #35
Southeast Georgia
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)msn.com> |
Subject: | Re: Another world up there. |
You got it, Bryan...........the sky is literally the limit. Have fun.
Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.biglar.homestead.com/larry.html
.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bryan Olson" <olson1bj(at)hotmail.com>
Sent: Saturday, March 24, 2001 9:01 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Another world up there.
>
> Firestar
> 503 DCDI
> Tundra tires
> 70 hrs. total time
> I have ben lurking for about a year know, decided to step out.
> I bought this plane partially built and finished it last july.
> Did about a week of taxiing then on july 21 I soloed in this little
> plane. What a lot of fun, its like another world up there.
>
> Bryan Olson, Lisbon, ND
> olson1bj(at)hotmail.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org> |
Subject: | Re: Another world up there. |
I would also like to get one of those hit-and-miss engines, would
like to build one of those "caveman ornithopters" like I saw
putzing around at Oshkosh. Any info?
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
> only if you can give me some good leads on antique
>stationary 1 cylinder gas engines. hehehe!!!
>
> thanks,
> Gary r. voigt
> excelsior
> 1996 kxp 15 hrs.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Roger M. Derby" <derbyrm(at)seidata.com> |
Subject: | Re: Tire pressure |
Enough that, with you in the pilot's seat, the edge of the tread just barely
clears the pavement.
Roger
http://www.seidata.com/~derbyrm
derbyrm(at)seidata.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "JIMMY HANKINSON" <jhankin(at)planters.net>
Sent: Saturday, March 24, 2001 7:00 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Tire pressure
>
> I have a Firefly with a 447 rotax with either 5 or 6" tires, what tire
> pressure should I be using?
>
> Jimmy
> Firefly #35
> Southeast Georgia
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ron or Mary Payne" <ronormar(at)apex.net> |
Subject: | Re: 3/16" RIVETS with Firestar Kit ? |
I received 12 that I know of. They are to attach the forward bracket to the
horizontal stabilizers. I don't recall any others. Ron Payne
----- Original Message -----
From: <TAILDRAGGER503(at)aol.com>
Sent: Saturday, March 24, 2001 10:00 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: 3/16" RIVETS with Firestar Kit ?
>
> Did anyone receive 3/16" rivets with the Firestar kit?
>
> Dave Snyder Long Branch ,N.J. Building FSII
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "John Cooley" <johnc(at)datasync.com> |
Subject: | Re: Firestar II Fuel Tanks |
Hi Gang,
May want to consider the option that John Jung shared with the list a
while back. I plan on doing this at some point. Here is a direct quote "The
front tank has the air vent plugged. It also feeds the
fuel pump and has a top line connected to the pickup from the rear tank. The
rear
tank is vented normally. What happens is; the rear tank empties first and
then the
front tank. When I fill the tanks, the front is always filled first.
This has two advantages, in my mind.
1) The CG will be farther forward, except when I have both tanks full.
2) I can run both tanks almost dry. With the standard setup, I worry about
the
tanks draining unevenly, and starving for gas before the tanks are really
empty."
Later,
John Cooley
Building FS II #1162
----- Original Message -----
From: <Ksbroste(at)aol.com>
Sent: Thursday, March 22, 2001 2:13 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Firestar II Fuel Tanks
>
> What is the most efficient positioning of the fuel tanks (2) in terms of
> refueling and positioning of the vent and supply lines? Thanks.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Cavuontop(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Rotax 582 in-flight failure |
Gentlemen:
I write in connection with the excellent accident report of WGeorge737
and his discussion the seizure of his 582.
Like a lot of guys who are serious about trying to live through a
career in light experimental aviation I read the accident reports with great
interest. What this has revealed to me is the enormous variation in levels
of operator sophistication of Rotax engines-- much greater than in general
aviation where licensed mechanics are needed to perform annual inspections.
We run the gamut from guys like John Hauck to guys with zero time who buy a
Kolb because they think its like a motorcycle.
When low time/low sophistication operators seize their 2 stroke
engines the causes, to the extent they can be ascertained with any clarity at
all, can usually be classified into a few categories that all of us should
recognize by now: "the 582 with no thermostat cold seizure scenario" comes
quickly to mind, followed by others like "attempted to take off with pre mix
fuel from last September" or "used tap water in the 582 cooling system with
nonstandard radiator."
Accidents which result from those scenarios teach us only one thing --
that we as a group are not doing a good enough job in communicating the
essential information you need to fly safely to the guys who are new to the
sport.
However, when a sophisticated operator has a problem it is an
opportunity for the rest of us to learn something that could be very
important -- because it is not one of those obvious mistakes -- and is
necessarily more subtle and complicated.
Let me be up front about my motivation in pursuing this-- I fly on a
582 myself -- and I have exchanged enough email with Bill George to know that
he is a conscientious and sophisticated operator and I want to avoid what
happened to him. I think what happened to Bill is worthy of close scrutiny
for a number of reasons which I will expand on below.
So let me rehash the facts in condensed form: Bill found some oil on
his tail and traced it to a split in one of the clear plastic lines from the
oil injection pump to the intake manifold. Bill replaced the lines with new
ones which necessarily entailed draining the injection pump. Everyone knows
that running your 582 without oil in the injection lines (or even bubbles) is
a very bad idea so Bill fueled the plane with 100:1 premix. The engine was
started and run at low rpm for a few minutes. In that time the oil pump
filled the lines except for a few bubbles. The engine was then run again at
low to moderate RPM until all the air was purged. Bill then took off and the
engine seized when he reduced from take off power.
What makes this story particularly troubling is that Bill took good
precautions to avoid the problem, but seized anyway. The operator's manual
explicitly mentions the 100:1 premix procedure for the engine break in to
ensure good lubrication so it was logical to import that procedure into the
post repair start up in view of the empty oil lines.
Purely as a matter of speculation it is possible to construct a
scenario where we posit that the cylinder which was deprived of oil by the
split in the line may have overheated a little and possibly scuffed or
scored, though not enough to seize, during the time it was run prior to the
repair. After the repair the engine was run at a low rpm for a short period
on just 100:1. While that may be sufficient for extra lubrication on break
in it is insufficient even for idle. (If memory serves the lowest ratio the
Rotax oil pump meters at is 70:1 at idle.) That may have caused additional
scuffing before the pump filled the injection lines and the fuel oil mix got
back on spec, though I regard that as unlikely.
It has been widely observed that 2 stroke engine seizures frequently
happen on the first throttle reduction after take off. It seems that the
reduction in rotational momentum from the rpm drop plus the additional heat
from moving down the mixture curve to the needle jet can seize an engine that
is operating on the edge. This phenomena is well described by the folks at
Group K, see http://www.groupk.com/seizures.html, and should be required
reading for all 2 stroke operators. (And a thanks to Mr. Pike for alerting
me to this.)
What is clear is that a scuff on a cylinder which appears small or
minor can rapidly -- the folks at Group K might say instantaneously --
generate enough friction and heat to seize a cylinder.
By way of contrast, but not criticism, I would have used a slightly
different procedure for the repair Bill made -- and I underline that it is
always easy to pontificate in hindsight. First, I when it became apparent
one cylinder had been running off spec as a result of the split in the oil
line I would have removed the exhaust manifold and checked for signs of
overheating. Second, though I don't think the procedure is mentioned in the
repair manual my understanding is that the accepted method of filling the oil
injection lines after they have been drained is to remove a plug from each
cylinder and simply pull the prop through again and again and turn the oil
pump until the lines are full. Then simply run the engine as normal with no
need for additional oil in the fuel.
I will investigate and find out exactly what the correct procedure is
and report to the group.
In the mean time it would be helpful if Bill could determine which
cylinder seized and whether it seized on the intake or the exhaust side.
Also, there was no mention of CHT or water temp indications. What were they
doing?
Mark R. Sellers
Kolb Twinstar Mark III
N496BM
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Timandjan(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: 3/16" RIVETS with Firestar Kit ? |
Just for the tail attachment front bracket, need to eat your weaties to pull
them though.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Scott Olendorf" <solendor(at)nycap.rr.com> |
Subject: | Re: firestar cover |
I make a cover for my plane every year out of Tyvek housewrap. I use the
Tyvek tape that goes with it and it lasts about 6 months outside before UV
takes its toll. I big roll is about $150 but will make covers for 8 or 9
seasons. The Tyvek is very slippery and does not chafe the fabric at all.
I put a flannel blanket over the windshield however.
Scott Olendorf
Original Firestar, Rotax 377
Schenectady, NY
http://home.nycap.rr.com/firestar/
"Reality is for those who lack imagination"
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave Leaf" <705460(at)ican.net>
Sent: Wednesday, March 21, 2001 6:58 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: firestar cover
>
> Anybody know where to buy an outdoor cover for a Firestar ?, I may have to
> store my airplane outside and I'd like to keep it from filling up with
water
> ! , Even if I could buy the right kind of fabric perhaps I could make one
> myself.
>
> Thanks,
>
>
> Dave Leaf
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org> |
Subject: | Re: Rotax 582 in-flight failure |
Something that may be helpful: years ago when I made a living as a motorcycle
mechanic, we discovered a way to speed up the process of refilling a 2-stroke
oil pump and purging the lines: take the oil pump cable and pull it to wide
open.
Not all the cables, or the throttle, just the oil pump cable. You might want to
get a rubber band and tie it up in such a way to hold it at max pump setting.
Then when you crank the engine over, it will pump about 5 times as fast. Also,
it makes the oil move briskly enough through the tubes so that it pushes the
air bubbles along smartly and doesn't allow them to back up or anything.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldpoops)
>
>Gentlemen:
>
> I write in connection with the excellent accident report of WGeorge737
>and his discussion the seizure of his 582.
> though I don't think the procedure is mentioned in the
>repair manual my understanding is that the accepted method of filling the oil
>injection lines after they have been drained is to remove a plug from each
>cylinder and simply pull the prop through again and again and turn the oil
>pump until the lines are full. Then simply run the engine as normal with no
>need for additional oil in the fuel.
>
> I will investigate and find out exactly what the correct procedure is
>and report to the group.
>
>
>Mark R. Sellers
>Kolb Twinstar Mark III
>N496BM
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Richmond <twoschmoops(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: Firefly Speed Data |
Yeah, and the same numbers for a MkIII w/ 582 !?!
--- Jack & Louise Hart wrote:
>
> Is there anyone out there that has accumulated best indicated speed
> data
> for a Firefly, such as,
>
> Climb
> Best rate
> Best angle
> Glide
> Best distance
> Minimum sink?
>
> If so, what values did you get?
>
>
> Jack & Louise Hart
> jbhart(at)ldd.net
>
>
>
>
>
>
=====
John & Lynn Richmond :-)
Palm Coast, Fl.
Mk3, 582
Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Richmond <twoschmoops(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: Rotax 582 in-flight failure |
Mark,
Great info, expecially because I am precisely on of those low hour, new
guys! I am reading all I can find on engine problems, and taking the 3
day rotax course from Lockwood in April, but the insights from you
experts is always the most valuable.
Thanks again for this help, and that link to groupk. You're another
guy to get to run into someday, where you located?
--- Cavuontop(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Gentlemen:
>
> I write in connection with the excellent accident report of
> WGeorge737
> and his discussion the seizure of his 582.
>
> Like a lot of guys who are serious about trying to live
> through a
> career in light experimental aviation I read the accident reports
> with great
> interest. What this has revealed to me is the enormous variation in
> levels
> of operator sophistication of Rotax engines-- much greater than in
> general
> aviation where licensed mechanics are needed to perform annual
> inspections.
> We run the gamut from guys like John Hauck to guys with zero time who
> buy a
> Kolb because they think its like a motorcycle.
>
> When low time/low sophistication operators seize their 2
> stroke
> engines the causes, to the extent they can be ascertained with any
> clarity at
> all, can usually be classified into a few categories that all of us
> should
> recognize by now: "the 582 with no thermostat cold seizure scenario"
> comes
> quickly to mind, followed by others like "attempted to take off with
> pre mix
> fuel from last September" or "used tap water in the 582 cooling
> system with
> nonstandard radiator."
>
> Accidents which result from those scenarios teach us only one
> thing --
> that we as a group are not doing a good enough job in communicating
> the
> essential information you need to fly safely to the guys who are new
> to the
> sport.
>
> However, when a sophisticated operator has a problem it is an
> opportunity for the rest of us to learn something that could be very
> important -- because it is not one of those obvious mistakes -- and
> is
> necessarily more subtle and complicated.
>
> Let me be up front about my motivation in pursuing this-- I
> fly on a
> 582 myself -- and I have exchanged enough email with Bill George to
> know that
> he is a conscientious and sophisticated operator and I want to avoid
> what
> happened to him. I think what happened to Bill is worthy of close
> scrutiny
> for a number of reasons which I will expand on below.
>
> So let me rehash the facts in condensed form: Bill found some
> oil on
> his tail and traced it to a split in one of the clear plastic lines
> from the
> oil injection pump to the intake manifold. Bill replaced the lines
> with new
> ones which necessarily entailed draining the injection pump.
> Everyone knows
> that running your 582 without oil in the injection lines (or even
> bubbles) is
> a very bad idea so Bill fueled the plane with 100:1 premix. The
> engine was
> started and run at low rpm for a few minutes. In that time the oil
> pump
> filled the lines except for a few bubbles. The engine was then run
> again at
> low to moderate RPM until all the air was purged. Bill then took off
> and the
> engine seized when he reduced from take off power.
>
> What makes this story particularly troubling is that Bill took
> good
> precautions to avoid the problem, but seized anyway. The operator's
> manual
> explicitly mentions the 100:1 premix procedure for the engine break
> in to
> ensure good lubrication so it was logical to import that procedure
> into the
> post repair start up in view of the empty oil lines.
>
> Purely as a matter of speculation it is possible to construct
> a
> scenario where we posit that the cylinder which was deprived of oil
> by the
> split in the line may have overheated a little and possibly scuffed
> or
> scored, though not enough to seize, during the time it was run prior
> to the
> repair. After the repair the engine was run at a low rpm for a short
> period
> on just 100:1. While that may be sufficient for extra lubrication on
> break
> in it is insufficient even for idle. (If memory serves the lowest
> ratio the
> Rotax oil pump meters at is 70:1 at idle.) That may have caused
> additional
> scuffing before the pump filled the injection lines and the fuel oil
> mix got
> back on spec, though I regard that as unlikely.
>
> It has been widely observed that 2 stroke engine seizures
> frequently
> happen on the first throttle reduction after take off. It seems that
> the
> reduction in rotational momentum from the rpm drop plus the
> additional heat
> from moving down the mixture curve to the needle jet can seize an
> engine that
> is operating on the edge. This phenomena is well described by the
> folks at
> Group K, see http://www.groupk.com/seizures.html, and should be
> required
> reading for all 2 stroke operators. (And a thanks to Mr. Pike for
> alerting
> me to this.)
>
> What is clear is that a scuff on a cylinder which appears
> small or
> minor can rapidly -- the folks at Group K might say instantaneously
> --
> generate enough friction and heat to seize a cylinder.
>
> By way of contrast, but not criticism, I would have used a
> slightly
> different procedure for the repair Bill made -- and I underline that
> it is
> always easy to pontificate in hindsight. First, I when it became
> apparent
> one cylinder had been running off spec as a result of the split in
> the oil
> line I would have removed the exhaust manifold and checked for signs
> of
> overheating. Second, though I don't think the procedure is mentioned
> in the
> repair manual my understanding is that the accepted method of filling
> the oil
> injection lines after they have been drained is to remove a plug from
> each
> cylinder and simply pull the prop through again and again and turn
> the oil
> pump until the lines are full. Then simply run the engine as normal
> with no
> need for additional oil in the fuel.
>
> I will investigate and find out exactly what the correct
> procedure is
> and report to the group.
>
> In the mean time it would be helpful if Bill could determine
> which
> cylinder seized and whether it seized on the intake or the exhaust
> side.
> Also, there was no mention of CHT or water temp indications. What
> were they
> doing?
>
>
> Mark R. Sellers
> Kolb Twinstar Mark III
> N496BM
>
>
>
>
>
>
=====
John & Lynn Richmond :-)
Palm Coast, Fl.
Mk3, 582
Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Kottke, Dwight" <dkottke(at)scherping.carlisle.com> |
Subject: | Rotax 582 in-flight failure |
I also responded to the original report with the possibility of the crank
seizing. Until this motor is torn down all of us are just guessing.
-----Original Message-----
From: Cavuontop(at)aol.com [mailto:Cavuontop(at)aol.com]
Sent: Sunday, March 25, 2001 4:02 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Rotax 582 in-flight failure
Gentlemen:
I write in connection with the excellent accident report of
WGeorge737
and his discussion the seizure of his 582.
Like a lot of guys who are serious about trying to live through a
career in light experimental aviation I read the accident reports with great
interest. What this has revealed to me is the enormous variation in levels
of operator sophistication of Rotax engines-- much greater than in general
aviation where licensed mechanics are needed to perform annual inspections.
We run the gamut from guys like John Hauck to guys with zero time who buy a
Kolb because they think its like a motorcycle.
When low time/low sophistication operators seize their 2 stroke
engines the causes, to the extent they can be ascertained with any clarity
at
all, can usually be classified into a few categories that all of us should
recognize by now: "the 582 with no thermostat cold seizure scenario" comes
quickly to mind, followed by others like "attempted to take off with pre mix
fuel from last September" or "used tap water in the 582 cooling system with
nonstandard radiator."
Accidents which result from those scenarios teach us only one thing
--
that we as a group are not doing a good enough job in communicating the
essential information you need to fly safely to the guys who are new to the
sport.
However, when a sophisticated operator has a problem it is an
opportunity for the rest of us to learn something that could be very
important -- because it is not one of those obvious mistakes -- and is
necessarily more subtle and complicated.
Let me be up front about my motivation in pursuing this-- I fly on a
582 myself -- and I have exchanged enough email with Bill George to know
that
he is a conscientious and sophisticated operator and I want to avoid what
happened to him. I think what happened to Bill is worthy of close scrutiny
for a number of reasons which I will expand on below.
So let me rehash the facts in condensed form: Bill found some oil on
his tail and traced it to a split in one of the clear plastic lines from the
oil injection pump to the intake manifold. Bill replaced the lines with new
ones which necessarily entailed draining the injection pump. Everyone knows
that running your 582 without oil in the injection lines (or even bubbles)
is
a very bad idea so Bill fueled the plane with 100:1 premix. The engine was
started and run at low rpm for a few minutes. In that time the oil pump
filled the lines except for a few bubbles. The engine was then run again at
low to moderate RPM until all the air was purged. Bill then took off and
the
engine seized when he reduced from take off power.
What makes this story particularly troubling is that Bill took good
precautions to avoid the problem, but seized anyway. The operator's manual
explicitly mentions the 100:1 premix procedure for the engine break in to
ensure good lubrication so it was logical to import that procedure into the
post repair start up in view of the empty oil lines.
Purely as a matter of speculation it is possible to construct a
scenario where we posit that the cylinder which was deprived of oil by the
split in the line may have overheated a little and possibly scuffed or
scored, though not enough to seize, during the time it was run prior to the
repair. After the repair the engine was run at a low rpm for a short period
on just 100:1. While that may be sufficient for extra lubrication on break
in it is insufficient even for idle. (If memory serves the lowest ratio the
Rotax oil pump meters at is 70:1 at idle.) That may have caused additional
scuffing before the pump filled the injection lines and the fuel oil mix got
back on spec, though I regard that as unlikely.
It has been widely observed that 2 stroke engine seizures frequently
happen on the first throttle reduction after take off. It seems that the
reduction in rotational momentum from the rpm drop plus the additional heat
from moving down the mixture curve to the needle jet can seize an engine
that
is operating on the edge. This phenomena is well described by the folks at
Group K, see http://www.groupk.com/seizures.html, and should be required
reading for all 2 stroke operators. (And a thanks to Mr. Pike for alerting
me to this.)
What is clear is that a scuff on a cylinder which appears small or
minor can rapidly -- the folks at Group K might say instantaneously --
generate enough friction and heat to seize a cylinder.
By way of contrast, but not criticism, I would have used a slightly
different procedure for the repair Bill made -- and I underline that it is
always easy to pontificate in hindsight. First, I when it became apparent
one cylinder had been running off spec as a result of the split in the oil
line I would have removed the exhaust manifold and checked for signs of
overheating. Second, though I don't think the procedure is mentioned in the
repair manual my understanding is that the accepted method of filling the
oil
injection lines after they have been drained is to remove a plug from each
cylinder and simply pull the prop through again and again and turn the oil
pump until the lines are full. Then simply run the engine as normal with no
need for additional oil in the fuel.
I will investigate and find out exactly what the correct procedure is
and report to the group.
In the mean time it would be helpful if Bill could determine which
cylinder seized and whether it seized on the intake or the exhaust side.
Also, there was no mention of CHT or water temp indications. What were they
doing?
Mark R. Sellers
Kolb Twinstar Mark III
N496BM
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Dale Seitzer <dale(at)gmada.com> |
Subject: | Free Air 447 on a Kolb Firestar |
I reveiwed the installation manual for the engine and Rotax agrees. I
also checked the parts numbers and there are different shrouds and fan
housing needed to convert a newer CDI frre air and use my old points /
fan housing. I am now scrounging for a used flywheel. I am also
checking the snowmobile junk yards---the flywheel is identical to the UL
flywheel as long as it is point ignition and they have used CDI for over
10 years on snowmobiles.
Thanks, Dale
Dale,
I manufacture and sale Free-Air scoops for air cooled Rotax engines, the
free-air setup should only be used in the tractor configuration.
If you are keeping your old engine, just use the parts from it to convert
your new engine to fan cooled.
Denny
> I have a line on a newer 447 but it is a free air engine--anybody ever
seen
> a Kolb Firestar with a free air engine? My old engine is a points
> ignition and the free air one is CDI--I believe I can make the switch
over
> but I am curious about the lighter engine and a little more power vs fan
> cooled.
>
> Dale Seitzer
> Original Firestar
> St. PAul
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Mike Foley" <mfoley(at)Thermawave.com> |
Subject: | Re: reccommend pilot log book |
As far as I know
If the AC is an experimental you have to have all 3 books
Mike
>>> johndeereantique(at)uswest.net 03/23/01 12:57PM >>>
Can anyone recommend a good pilot log book... I,am not
happy with the one i received from cps... too much useless
information.
and don't want to purchase 3 different log books for pilot,
engine maint. and air frame...would like one book that would
contain extra space for these logs. what are the rest of you
using.
p.s. winter flying has been good for the latter part of
winter on lk. minnetonka!!!!!
thanks,
Gary r. voigt
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Ben Ransom <bwr000(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: my slow rebuild |
>
> Sometimes fixing what's broke is tougher than building it to begin
> with.
True for me, that's for sure. Gotta admit too that my "squeeze every
building moment possible" feeling is not as strong as the first round.
> I like your ideas with the epoxy..........makes sense, and I'm going
> to look
> at it further. At work we have the double barrelled plunger epoxy
> outfits,
> with replaceable mixer tips. Seems like they'd be just the ticket
> for what
> you're saying.
Finding the right syringe is really helpful for this. The goal is to
get something you can put 3-4 ounces in and has a hole that matches the
viscosity of the epoxy. I like to add a few microballoons too -- not
as much to make paste though, just enf to slow it down from running.
> Vamoose' tailfeathers will be done this
> weekend, then
> he'll start on the wings, while I finish hooking up the engine.
> Should have
> startup soon. Do you have an e.t. of completion for your
> plane ??
No. I'm not that brave. One wknd at a time = someday ...you know the
feeling, right?
-Ben Ransom
Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Ben Ransom <bwr000(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | tank and BRS location options |
Scott,
I just checked out some of your web pics. I've had my BRS(4) installed
in the same place as yours. Yes, a tight squeeze. Unfortunately, mine
was easy to remove because I had to tear off all the fabric for cage
repairs! In my rebuild, I've wanted to get either the gas tank or the
BRS out of that fine baggage area. I do like keeping the BRS out of
the rain and also inside for less drag. I specifically do not like
sharing cabin space with a gas tank, and I've also wondered how smart
it is to mount a gas tank and hoses right on top of a BRS rocket.
I had been sure I would make tanks in the wings, but abandoned that
idea. Vent tube ideas get really complicated when considering how to
allow for the wings in folded position, and filling the tank while on
the trailer also gets ugly. So, my current plan is to look again at
making a custom tank between the wings -- I think Richard Pike did
that. Ideally, such a tank would combine with whatever surfaces are
needed to serve as gap seal, negating the need to put that on or off at
each wing fold. Got to also consider safety parameters in having it
mounted basically above the pilot, but I think it is fair to assume
that in a crash landing bad enf to break the tank, nothing would be
sitting in normal position anyway.
-Ben Ransom
--- Scott Olendorf wrote:
> I make a cover for my plane every year out of Tyvek housewrap. I use
> the
> Tyvek tape that goes with it and it lasts about 6 months outside
Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Edward Steuber" <esteuber(at)rochester.rr.com> |
After speaking to Richard Swiderski on the phone last week and having
all my questions about Ultrastars answered , I now have a couple more
for the list. I want to modify the ultrastar with a longer flexible gear
to solve the prop clearance problem and the damage associated to the
frame with hard landings. I think the Slingshot gear is the answer but
tying it in to the cage is going to recquire a bit of engineering .
Anybody have any experience with this gear on the Ultrastar. I think the
weight(steel) is the one factor that might screw this up....Alternative
landing gear legs...?... Another benefit could be a longer prop if the
frame was deepened at the same time. I am going to have to rebuild a
complete frame anyway so mods will be much easily accomplished than
modifying old.I have already modified my 1st ultrastar with a Firestar
fairing and new steel tubing from the back of the seat forward. It has a
centerline stick with no change in control inputs or geometry. It sure
looks better and CG is better at 21" The 2nd machine will be flown by my
low-time sons and I would like to make it a bit more durable, if you
know what I mean. The other question is in regards to an electric
carburetor heat unit that runs off the lighting coil that is available
for the 36mm Bing . Is there a similar unit for a 32mm MIkuni ? Or is
there another way to heat the Mikuni mounted on a Cayuna UL1102 ?
Western N.Y. is carb ice territory year round and am very concerned that
this could and will ruin my day ..... Thanks again for all the good
info , Richard, I enjoyed the talk...Ed Steuber
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org> |
There was an article in the EAA Experimenter years ago about someone
modifying an Ultrastar with fiberglass gear legs like a Vari Eze has.
Unidirectional glass, and very strong. One of the locals tried it on his
Ultrastar and it worked great, unfortunately, it did not help when his
brother stalled it out about 20 feet up and made it into a lawn dart.
(walked away)
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>After speaking to Richard Swiderski on the phone last week and having
>all my questions about Ultrastars answered , I now have a couple more
>for the list. I want to modify the ultrastar with a longer flexible gear
>to solve the prop clearance problem and the damage associated to the
>frame with hard landings.
>Ed Steuber
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Helmet with built in headset |
Does anyone know of a helmet with built-in headset for use in a UL [not
"Comtronics"]? I want to install the Active Noise Reduction Modules from
"Headsets, Inc." but they won't fit in my Ultra-pro 2000 helmet.
I tried on a military-style helmet with that ANL with my 503 running at
4,000 rpm & the noise reduction was dramatic! I've got to have it! I would
consider not wearing a helmet but I need something to hang my flip-up visor
on [my plane is a Kolb Firestar I with the short windscreen]. Have tried
goggles and can't use them over my prescription glasses.
Howard Shackleford
FS I
SC
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Re: Helmet with built in headset |
Howard and Gang:
That wind in the face used to bug heck outta me in my
original Firestar, until I fabricated a small faring of .060
Lexan. I originally wore big Scott goggles over my specs
with a David Clark cloth helmet. After the faring, I could
wear my regular glasses and a baseball cap. Here's a pic of
the set up:
http://hawk36.home.mindspring.com/Cuz'n%20P'fer/Osh89%20Grand%20Champ%20UL.JPG
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)msn.com> |
Subject: | Re: Helmet with built in headset |
John's idea looks great, but if you decide you don't want to do that, go to
a motorcycle shop. I had the same problem with the hang glider, and the
goggles a local Yamaha shop sold me are a perfect fit over my glasses, and
vented too. Look like ski goggles, and have replaceable lenses, available
in different colors - such as clear, yellow for cloudy days, gray for
neutral color change, etc. I forget the price, but they Were a little
spendy. The flip-up visor on my helmet had (has) an annoying blast of wind
around the edges, into my eyes, and drove me nuts. Short trip.
Big Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.biglar.homestead.com/larry.html
.
----- Original Message -----
From: <HShack(at)aol.com>
Sent: Monday, March 26, 2001 2:06 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Helmet with built in headset
>
> Does anyone know of a helmet with built-in headset for use in a UL [not
> "Comtronics"]? I want to install the Active Noise Reduction Modules from
> "Headsets, Inc." but they won't fit in my Ultra-pro 2000 helmet.
>
> I tried on a military-style helmet with that ANL with my 503 running at
> 4,000 rpm & the noise reduction was dramatic! I've got to have it! I
would
> consider not wearing a helmet but I need something to hang my flip-up
visor
> on [my plane is a Kolb Firestar I with the short windscreen]. Have tried
> goggles and can't use them over my prescription glasses.
>
> Howard Shackleford
> FS I
> SC
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Richard Swiderski" <swiderskir(at)earthlink.net> |
Ed,
Regarding longer legs, fiberglass will be heaviest of all reasonable
options. If you use SS or other "off the shelf legs" you will have to build
a hefty box structure which is additional weight. My research led me to
believe the lightest method is to use the existing attachments (or slightly
modify them) & use large diameter tubing of relitively thin wall thickness
(0.32"). If memory serves me right, the front tube was 1 1/8" or 1 1/4" &
the rear tube was 7/8". I used a nearly solid 5/8" axle gussetted to the
two tubes, but a heavy wall 3/4" might be better. The 2 legs had a simple X
assembly holding them together. The X had a sliding mechanism that allowed
it to expand. Bungie wraps held the slide together & a 3/16" bolt acted as
a stop if the bungie overextended. It was light & strong & took tremendous
abuse.
Regarding carb heat: There is a product to unthaw frozen pipes. It
is simply a flat wire with a high resistance (nicrome?). You just wrapped
around the pipe & plugged it in! You could leave it on to prevent frezzing.
Could you not just wrap your carbs with the stuff & let your A/C current
keep the carbs snug?
.....I now have a couple more
> for the list. I want to modify the ultrastar with a longer flexible gear
> to solve the prop clearance problem and the damage associated to the
> frame with hard landings. I think the Slingshot gear is the answer but
> tying it in to the cage is going to recquire a bit of engineering .
I think the
> weight(steel) is the one factor that might screw this up....Alternative
> landing gear legs...?... Another benefit could be a longer prop if the
> frame was deepened at the same time.
The other question is in regards to an electric
> carburetor heat unit that runs off the lighting coil that is available
> for the 36mm Bing . Is there a similar unit for a 32mm MIkuni ? Or is
> there another way to heat the Mikuni mounted on a Cayuna UL1102 ?.....
...Ed Steuber
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Richard Swiderski" <swiderskir(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Re: Helmet with built in headset |
Howard,
I found a product that fits ( http://www.anr-headsets.com/ ) but they
don't want to mess with Comptronics because of their many variations of
circuitry. I feel sure if we map out what we have (especially how they
match mic, eg., if using a transformer, what ratio ect.) they would send
one. I plan on doing this, just not enough time! ...Richard
Swiderski
----- Original Message -----
From: <HShack(at)aol.com>
Sent: Monday, March 26, 2001 5:06 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Helmet with built in headset
>
> Does anyone know of a helmet with built-in headset for use in a UL [not
> "Comtronics"]? I want to install the Active Noise Reduction Modules from
> "Headsets, Inc." but they won't fit in my Ultra-pro 2000 helmet.
>
> I tried on a military-style helmet with that ANL with my 503 running at
> 4,000 rpm & the noise reduction was dramatic! I've got to have it! I
would
> consider not wearing a helmet but I need something to hang my flip-up
visor
> on [my plane is a Kolb Firestar I with the short windscreen]. Have tried
> goggles and can't use them over my prescription glasses.
>
> Howard Shackleford
> FS I
> SC
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | David Hempy <dhempy(at)dlmail.ket.org> |
I've recently joined this list and perused the archives, searching for
anything about the Ultrastar. Pleased to find many references, all quite
complimentary.
You see, I just took in a homeless Ultrastar, and hope to restore
it...possibly next winter. It is in pretty rough shape, but I can see a
solid plane inside. I've posted a dozen or so pictures on the website
below. The neglect is evident, but there does not appear to be any
damage. I'll tear it all down, recover the wings, sand and paint the
fuselage, and so on. I'm sure you guys will get tired of my questions
before long.
I'm interested in the discussion on extending the gear. The Cuyuna on it
is probably serviceable, but I'll probably use a good 447 I've got in the
attic. Or possibly a 503, but I'm going to try my darndest to keep this
thing as light as possible. In any event, I would welcome a larger prop.
Here's some pictures:
http://www.bluegrassultralightgroup.org/members/hempy/ultrastar/
-dave
David Hempy -- USUA Region 6 Representative (KY-IN-MI-OH)
ASC Trike BFI #BKY56 -- www.BluegrassUltralightGroup.org -- EAA #456510
-- -- (c)2001,DBH
Views expressed are solely my own, unless explicitly stated otherwise.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | George Alexander <gtalexander(at)att.net> |
Subject: | Re: Helmet with built in headset |
HShack(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> Does anyone know of a helmet with built-in headset for use in a UL [not
> "Comtronics"]? I want to install the Active Noise Reduction Modules from
> "Headsets, Inc." but they won't fit in my Ultra-pro 2000 helmet.
>
> I tried on a military-style helmet with that ANL with my 503 running at
> 4,000 rpm & the noise reduction was dramatic! I've got to have it! I would
> consider not wearing a helmet but I need something to hang my flip-up visor
> on [my plane is a Kolb Firestar I with the short windscreen]. Have tried
> goggles and can't use them over my prescription glasses.
Howard:
I wear tri-focals and have found that the very light goggles
worn by many sky-divers work great. They have a version
designed to be worn over regular glasses. No obstruction
from the thick frame like on the cycle or ski goggles.
Vents on the sides to prevent fogging. $8, even cheaper if
ordered in quantity. Para-Gear is where I get mine. These
are at: http://www.paragear.com/goggles/ Item No. G1128
(about 2/3 down the page).
George Alexander
http://gtalexander.home.att.net
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bryan Olson" <olson1bj(at)hotmail.com> |
The tundra tires are actually ballon tires from airstar 8.00-6
about 18 in. tall. They really smoothed out my runway. Today it was
30 deg. and light winds, went up about 5000 ft. that was a first for
me. I did a few power on stalls at 4000 rpms it broke clean and the
nose dropped, it kinda gets the heart pounding..
By the way, thanks for all the good information on this list. I dont
think I would have got off the ground without it.
bjolson(at)hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | SGreenpg(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Group K on piston seizure |
Kolbers,
Before I start I want to say that this is merely my opinion!!
I read with great interest the article about piston seizure published by
Group K. I have to disagree with the following if they are using the term
"press fit" to mean interference fit.
" If you could freeze your engine "in motion" in the middle of a long full
throttle pass, and disassemble it for micrometer measurement, you would find
the piston to measure at a .0005" to .0015" press fit into the bore. That's
right, a slight press fit! "
If there were an interference fit between the cylinder and the piston this
would mean that the oil film would have to be strong enough to shrink the
piston or expand the cylinder. If the cylinder were expanding with every
stroke of the piston it would very quickly fatigue around the ports and
crack. It would take a tremendous amount of power to move a piston up and
down through an interference fit at 12000 strokes per minute not to mention
the heat that would be generated.
There is such an engine that does have a slight interference fit between the
piston and cylinder but these have no rings and the interference is only when
the piston is very close to top dead center. These are most commonly used in
model airplanes and have a brass cylinder sleeve that is chrome plated.
Please be sure to read the first sentence.
What are your thoughts?
Steven Green
N58SG
MK III 34.1 hours (only 5.9 to go)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | slyck <slyck(at)frontiernet.net> |
Group: I checked the archives on this and didn't find anything, so
here goes---A little tip for the Aerothane (or Imron, catalyzed
urethane,
etc). After you have stirred in the catalyst, put the top back on-
Let it sit for 30 minutes! then spray. This is especially important if
painting below 70 deg F. It allows the mix to form enough body
to prevent annoying runs on vertical surfaces. Don't worry about
it hardening or clotting in the pot-it won't.
Me, I'm going to get a nice pressure pot working so I don't have
to put up with refilling that annoying little can.
---(would really like to try John's HVLP outfit tho)
Bob B. mkIII, new spar in left wing, cage welding next
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ian Heritch" <heritch(at)connecti.com> |
Anyone have a clue as to where I can buy 1" copper tape, or thin copper foil
I can cut into 1" strips? I am going to use this stuff to make a ground
plane for my com antenna.
Ian Heritch
Slingshot 912, San Antonio
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dean Halstead" <deanbo(at)calweb.com> |
Adhesive backed copper foil tape is used for "Tiffany Style" stained glass
work.
I have not seen 1 inch wide tape but 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2 inch widths are
readily available through stained glass shops. Who knows, they may even
have 1 inch.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Flycrazy8(at)aol.com |
Why change something that is great to fly........Sounds like you are asking
for troubles......
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Re: Group K on piston seizure |
> Please be sure to read the first sentence.
> What are your thoughts?
>
> Steven Green
Steven and Gang:
The Group K guys are running Ski Doo's and we are running
airplanes.
I haven't been involved with 2 strokes in a long time, and I
forget a lot of information. But what ever Rotax called for
minimum piston to cylinder clearance, we always cut the
cylinder a few more thousandths for good measure. My own
thoughts are, when the clearance gets too close (we are
working with aluminum piston and cast iron cylinder liner)
eventually we will overcome that thin film of oil that
seperates the two. Once it is gone in one tiny spot, it
will probably spread quite quickly.
I also believe that our aircraft engines are more continuous
duty that the Ski Doo's. Live a different life style.
Eric Tucker shared with me that they have never had to
replace a 912 cylinder in 11 years and over 7,000 engines.
That was January 2000. Right, it is a 4 stroke, but of
significance is the 912 has no cast iron cylinder liner.
Piston and cylinder are aluminum. Piston to cylinder
clearance for a new engine is:
***I can not remember exactly and am too tired to go look it
up at the moment. Will post the official clearance when I
find it in the book. However, it is something like .001 and
tighter.
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Scott Olendorf" <solendor(at)nycap.rr.com> |
Subject: | Re: tank and BRS location options |
I can't see how you can get a big enough tank above your head in the gap
seal unless it sticks out above a few inches. Haven't done the math but it
looks too small. If it doesn't interfere with aileron controls I think I
would hang the BRS underneath the fuse tube at about the same spot. Then I
would be able to use that space. If you made a tank to start at the main
root tube and go down from there making it flush with the sides I would
think that would be the best use of space. I can see getting at least 8 gals
there and still having lots of room underneath.
Get building, I miss your flying pictures!!
Scott Olendorf
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ben Ransom" <bwr000(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Monday, March 26, 2001 1:31 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: tank and BRS location options
>
> Scott,
> I just checked out some of your web pics. I've had my BRS(4) installed
> in the same place as yours. Yes, a tight squeeze. Unfortunately, mine
> was easy to remove because I had to tear off all the fabric for cage
> repairs! In my rebuild, I've wanted to get either the gas tank or the
> BRS out of that fine baggage area. I do like keeping the BRS out of
> the rain and also inside for less drag. I specifically do not like
> sharing cabin space with a gas tank, and I've also wondered how smart
> it is to mount a gas tank and hoses right on top of a BRS rocket.
>
> I had been sure I would make tanks in the wings, but abandoned that
> idea. Vent tube ideas get really complicated when considering how to
> allow for the wings in folded position, and filling the tank while on
> the trailer also gets ugly. So, my current plan is to look again at
> making a custom tank between the wings -- I think Richard Pike did
> that. Ideally, such a tank would combine with whatever surfaces are
> needed to serve as gap seal, negating the need to put that on or off at
> each wing fold. Got to also consider safety parameters in having it
> mounted basically above the pilot, but I think it is fair to assume
> that in a crash landing bad enf to break the tank, nothing would be
> sitting in normal position anyway.
> -Ben Ransom
>
> --- Scott Olendorf wrote:
> > I make a cover for my plane every year out of Tyvek housewrap. I use
> > the
> > Tyvek tape that goes with it and it lasts about 6 months outside
>
>
> Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Re: tank and BRS location options |
I can see getting at least 8 gals
> there and still having lots of room underneath.
>Scott
Scott and Gang:
My original Firestar had an 18 gallon (usable) fuel tank,
welded up with 5052 .050 aluminum. It was designed to fit
in the space from the center longeron up, behind the
bulkhead. That left everything else below for cargo, except
space taken up by the boom tube. I had about the same
duration with this setup and a 447 as I do now with 25 gal
tank and 912S. The fuel tank and cargo bay are configured
in my MK III like they were in the original Firestar.
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Gary Shellberg" <shelfarm(at)netins.net> |
Ian - you can purchase copper foil in approx. 6"x6" size at NAPA auto parts
stores ( they sell it as shim stock in various thicknesses ).
----- Original Message -----
From: Ian Heritch <heritch(at)connecti.com>
Sent: Monday, March 26, 2001 8:24 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Copper Tape
>
> Anyone have a clue as to where I can buy 1" copper tape, or thin copper
foil
> I can cut into 1" strips? I am going to use this stuff to make a ground
> plane for my com antenna.
>
> Ian Heritch
> Slingshot 912, San Antonio
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org> |
Subject: | Fuel tank in wing gap |
I have had my airplane all apart this winter doing some upgrades, and the
fuel tank/gap seal was out for some mods of it's own. I have taken some
pictures and will add several pages to my web site specific to how to make
a fuel tank to fit in the gap seal, but that is still a few weeks away. For
those who cannot wait, I can send out some .jpg pictures and a summary of
what was done. I am leaving town until Sunday night, send me off list and
I'll make something up and send it to everybody interested next week. (All
2 of you!)
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Richard Swiderski" <swiderskir(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Re: Group K on piston seizure |
John,
I agree with you also. I honed my SeaDoo engine to rotax's max. rec
clearance. Watercraft & aircraft are quite similar loads. Watercrafts are
usually to often, full throttle runs, driving a prop that loads the engine
down.
Regarding 912 clearance, its probably in mm! The close tolerance Group
K guys i believe are using ceramic coated pistons. I've seen a 582 with
them as well & mechanic told me they were from Rotax?! They definitely use
much closer limits.
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Hauck" <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Sent: Monday, March 26, 2001 10:42 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Group K on piston seizure
>
>
> > Please be sure to read the first sentence.
> > What are your thoughts?
> >
> > Steven Green
>
>
> Steven and Gang:
>
> The Group K guys are running Ski Doo's and we are running
> airplanes.
>
> I haven't been involved with 2 strokes in a long time, and I
> forget a lot of information. But what ever Rotax called for
> minimum piston to cylinder clearance, we always cut the
> cylinder a few more thousandths for good measure. My own
> thoughts are, when the clearance gets too close (we are
> working with aluminum piston and cast iron cylinder liner)
> eventually we will overcome that thin film of oil that
> seperates the two. Once it is gone in one tiny spot, it
> will probably spread quite quickly.
>
> I also believe that our aircraft engines are more continuous
> duty that the Ski Doo's. Live a different life style.
>
> Eric Tucker shared with me that they have never had to
> replace a 912 cylinder in 11 years and over 7,000 engines.
> That was January 2000. Right, it is a 4 stroke, but of
> significance is the 912 has no cast iron cylinder liner.
> Piston and cylinder are aluminum. Piston to cylinder
> clearance for a new engine is:
>
> ***I can not remember exactly and am too tired to go look it
> up at the moment. Will post the official clearance when I
> find it in the book. However, it is something like .001 and
> tighter.
>
> Take care,
>
> john h
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | bob n <ronoy(at)shentel.net> |
I do a lot of stained glass work. I'll look for copper foil wider than
the 3/16 I have ever used..If I were making an antenna out of copper,
I'd go to good roofing shop. Might be a bit thicker, but more stable.
The stained glass foil is very thin.
bn
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | 912 Piston to Cyl Wall Clearance |
Gang:
Found my 912 Shop Manual. Here are the Piston to Cyl Wall
Clearances:
new mm (inch) wear limit mm (inch)
0,0 to 0,02 mm (0.0 to 0.001 inch) 0,10 mm (0,004 inch)
That's tight, ain't it!
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
<>
McMaster-Carr Supply Co. catalog lists a couple of variations - from 1/4" wide
thru 3" wide in 18 yard rolls.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "HD Mitchell" <mitchmnd(at)msn.com> |
Subject: | Re: Firefly Speed Data |
All speeds based on GPS-verified IAS, flying triangle pattern, certified
ROC and UL grade Altimeter.
Firefly SN007, 155 Lb pilot, enclosed cockpit, 5 gal fuel on board, with
balistic chute, gross ~465 Lbs tested and confirmed on nearly perfect standard
days.
Engine off simulated by 3,000 RPM throttle setting.
Top speed ~ 80 MPH,
Clean stall: 37, 1/2 flaperons,35, full flaperons 33,
Best rate of climb (@ 6,200 RPM)......55 MPH 1,000 FPM,
Best angle of climb: Not tested,
Best glide (distance) 45 MPH (straight ahead), Glide ratio: 8.8:1,
Stall during 30 degree turn: not tested but recommended > 40 MPH,
Stall during 45 degree turn: not tested but recommended > 45 MPH,
Stall during 60 degree turn: not tested but recommended > 60 MPH
Lost ~ 300' of Alt during 180 degree turn at 50 MPH simulated glide,
Hope tis helps, Flame away !!
Duane the plane in Tallahassee, FL, FF SN 007, 447, IVO, 98 Hrs
----- Original Message -----
From: John Richmond
Sent: Monday, March 26, 2001 7:16 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Firefly Speed Data
Yeah, and the same numbers for a MkIII w/ 582 !?!
--- Jack & Louise Hart wrote:
>
> Is there anyone out there that has accumulated best indicated speed
> data
> for a Firefly, such as,
>
> Climb
> Best rate
> Best angle
> Glide
> Best distance
> Minimum sink?
>
> If so, what values did you get?
>
>
> Jack & Louise Hart
> jbhart(at)ldd.net
>
>
John & Lynn Richmond :-)
Palm Coast, Fl.
Mk3, 582
Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail.
=
=
=
=
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jeremy Casey" <jrcasey(at)ldl.net> |
I was in Lowe's last night and saw copper sheet there. Now I didn't check
the sizes , but I did notice that they had a 24" X 24" in sheet (don't
remember the thickness...) for about $74...yea kinda pricey. But you could
make about a dozen antenna out of that and be real popular when you sent the
others to all your ultralighting friends!
Jeremy Casey
jrcasey(at)ldl.net
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
Ulflyer(at)aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, March 27, 2001 6:51 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Copper Tape
<>
McMaster-Carr Supply Co. catalog lists a couple of variations - from 1/4"
wide thru 3" wide in 18 yard rolls.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Mike Foley" <mfoley(at)Thermawave.com> |
Try a stained glass supply shop
Mike
>>> deanbo(at)calweb.com 03/26/01 06:57PM >>>
Adhesive backed copper foil tape is used for "Tiffany Style" stained glass
work.
I have not seen 1 inch wide tape but 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2 inch widths are
readily available through stained glass shops. Who knows, they may even
have 1 inch.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | SGreenpg(at)aol.com |
On the subject of antennas and ground planes, has anyone used "Spraylat
series 559" for a ground plane. It is a metallic coating that can be painted
on the inside of composite structures to provide a ground plane. It is
recommended in the instructions with my ELT.
Steven Green
N58SG
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | WGeorge737(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Gear leg socket goop? |
Removed the severely bent gear leg yesterday and will be installing new style
steel ones. The old one came out OK, with a bit of tugging and twisting. I am
concerned about a small amount of corrosion that might prevent the new ones
being removed in the future, heaven forbid.
What material might be used to apply to the socket/leg to facilitate
installation and removal?
Thanks,
Bill G.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle) |
Subject: | Missing Digest Messages Solved!! |
I've solved the mystery of the missing Digest messages. Seems that I
a "end of message" indicator. For some reason, Larry Bourne's messages
always seem to have this sequence of characters between his message the
to stop sending text at this point.
modified and tested it this morning and this has fixed the problem. I
will resend last night's Digest in a minute.
Thanks to a couple of members who got me going done the Larry B.
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Email List Admin.
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
Great minds discuss ideas,
Average minds discuss events,
Small minds discuss people...
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)msn.com> |
Subject: | Re: Gear leg socket goop? |
This may be a little inappropriate, Bill, but when I'm connecting aluminum
wires to a steel junction block, I always smear it with "NoAlOx." It's an
anti-corrosive lubricant designed for just that purpose, and you can find it
at any electrical supply, Home Depot, or Ace Hardware. Never thought of it
at the time, but now I wish I'd used it on Vamoose' legs.
Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.biglar.homestead.com/larry.html
.
----- Original Message -----
From: <WGeorge737(at)aol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, March 27, 2001 8:02 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Gear leg socket goop?
>
> Removed the severely bent gear leg yesterday and will be installing new
style
> steel ones. The old one came out OK, with a bit of tugging and twisting. I
am
> concerned about a small amount of corrosion that might prevent the new
ones
> being removed in the future, heaven forbid.
>
> What material might be used to apply to the socket/leg to facilitate
> installation and removal?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bill G.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Cavuontop(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Gear leg socket goop? |
In a message dated 3/27/01 8:06:14 AM Pacific Standard Time,
WGeorge737(at)aol.com writes:
> What material might be used to apply to the socket/leg to facilitate
> installation and removal?
>
Bill:
It has been my experience that there is frequently welding residue
inside the tubes where the gear legs are inserted that can cause all sorts of
problems. Stick your fingers in and feel around. I used a fine rounded file
to file down some of the boogers on the inside and that made a noticeable
difference. I would apply a light coating of a light grease to the legs to
keep the corosion down and make it easier to get them out in the future.
Mark R. Sellers
Kolb Twinstar Mark III
N496BM
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)msn.com> |
Subject: | Re: Missing Digest Messages Solved!! |
See that.............everybody's always blaming the Lar. Looks like
you're a good detective, Clay. Now, the question to me is: What caused
that ?? Why me ?? How to avoid it again in the future ??
For the rest of the group; a few days ago, Clay Stuart emailed me to
say he thought I was the culprit messing up the Digest, cause I was always
the last sender..........no emails after mine. I forwarded that email to
Matt Dralle, with copy to Clay, to show him what I was doing. Looks like he
was right. Good Work. Since I'm not on the Digest, I didn't even know
there was a problem. Big Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.biglar.homestead.com/larry.html
.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Matt Dralle" <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Sent: Tuesday, March 27, 2001 8:04 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Missing Digest Messages Solved!!
>
>
> I've solved the mystery of the missing Digest messages. Seems that I
> a "end of message" indicator. For some reason, Larry Bourne's messages
> always seem to have this sequence of characters between his message the
> to stop sending text at this point.
>
> modified and tested it this morning and this has fixed the problem. I
> will resend last night's Digest in a minute.
>
> Thanks to a couple of members who got me going done the Larry B.
>
> Best regards,
>
> Matt Dralle
> Email List Admin.
>
>
> --
>
>
> Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
> 925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
> http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
>
> Great minds discuss ideas,
> Average minds discuss events,
> Small minds discuss people...
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Christopher John Armstrong" <Tophera(at)centurytel.net> |
Subject: | Re: Helmet with built in headset |
> Does anyone know of a helmet with built-in headset for use in a UL [not
> "Comtronics"]? I want to install the Active Noise Reduction Modules from
> "Headsets, Inc." but they won't fit in my Ultra-pro 2000 helmet.
>
> I tried on a military-style helmet with that ANL with my 503 running at
> 4,000 rpm & the noise reduction was dramatic! I've got to have it! I
would
> consider not wearing a helmet but I need something to hang my flip-up
visor
> on [my plane is a Kolb Firestar I with the short windscreen]. Have tried
> goggles and can't use them over my prescription glasses.
>
> Howard Shackleford
linx sells a helmet that will fit over a standard headset. so if you get a
anr headset you can just put the helmet on over the top. i think you could
probably find som standard motorcycle helmets that are designed for
intercoms on the big touring bikes that have enough room for the Headsets
INc modules. I started looking into that but decided to go with a headset
and a helmet that fit over the top so I could use the headset in ga planes
alone.
Topher
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org> |
Subject: | Re: Gear leg socket goop? |
When I was building my MKIII I noticed a little corrosion and scale inside
the leg sockets in the areas of where it had been welded. I took a brake
cylinder hone and honed out the socket in that area until the scale was
gone. My personal preference is to spray a light coat of LPS-3 lubricant
all over everything before I slide the legs up into place. I guess it
wouldn't hurt to also smear a little Permatex Anti-Seize over the top of
that, between the two, you'd think that future removal would have to be
kinda' easy.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>Removed the severely bent gear leg yesterday and will be installing new style
>steel ones. The old one came out OK, with a bit of tugging and twisting. I am
>concerned about a small amount of corrosion that might prevent the new ones
>being removed in the future, heaven forbid.
>
>What material might be used to apply to the socket/leg to facilitate
>installation and removal?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Bill G.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | JIMMY HANKINSON <jhankin(at)planters.net> |
When replacing or checking oil level in a "B" gear box on a 447 Rotax
should the engine and gear box be level by raising the tail up to a
level position?
Jimmy
Firefly #35
Southeast, Georgia
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: helmet / headset/ ANR |
From: | erich_weaver(at)urscorp.com |
03/27/2001 12:16:07 PM
Howard and List:
I got my helmet from David Clark; - its made to military specs for flight
deck operations, and comes with an inner skull cap made of fabric. Its
designed to accept headphones that protrude out either side. I used the
David Clark ANR headsets as well, but Im pretty sure other headsets would
work in the helmet as well.
Cant remember prices, but not cheap. Works well though. Best buy is from
Marv Golden Discount Sales on the web.
Hope this helps.
Erich Weaver
erich_weaver(at)urscorp.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | bob n <ronoy(at)shentel.net> |
Subject: | Re: Gear leg socket goop? |
Bill,
The first thing that comes to my mind(?) for the gear-leg problem would
be a smear of the copper-y anti seize grease used on GA (pardon the the
word) sparkplugs.
bn
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Do I need a static port? |
From: | erich_weaver(at)urscorp.com |
03/27/2001 12:25:03 PM
I recently installed doors, but not the full enclosure with rear panels, on
my Mrk III. Sure am glad to have that wind out of my face!. Now I see my
airspeed indicator is way off (reads high). I would assume that I need a
static port, unless its alternatively due to me accidentally dropping the
instrument when I changed my panel a while back. No visual damage from
dropping, and seems to work ok except for being high.
Will adding doors but not a full enclosure produce the faulty reading or
do I need to pay for my fumbling of the instrument?
Erich Weaver
erich_weaver(at)urscorp.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Ole Noetnes <onoetnes(at)online.no> |
Subject: | Re: Helmet with built in headset |
Christopher John Armstrong wrote:
>
>
> > Does anyone know of a helmet with built-in headset for use in a UL [not
> > "Comtronics"]? I want to install the Active Noise Reduction Modules from
> > "Headsets, Inc." but they won't fit in my Ultra-pro 2000 helmet.
> >
> > I tried on a military-style helmet with that ANL with my 503 running at
> > 4,000 rpm & the noise reduction was dramatic! I've got to have it! I
> would
> > consider not wearing a helmet but I need something to hang my flip-up
> visor
> > on [my plane is a Kolb Firestar I with the short windscreen]. Have tried
> > goggles and can't use them over my prescription glasses.
> >
> > Howard Shackleford
>
> linx sells a helmet that will fit over a standard headset. so if you get a
> anr headset you can just put the helmet on over the top. i think you could
> probably find som standard motorcycle helmets that are designed for
> intercoms on the big touring bikes that have enough room for the Headsets
> INc modules. I started looking into that but decided to go with a headset
> and a helmet that fit over the top so I could use the headset in ga planes
> alone.
>
> Topher
>
yes, there are several brands that go over ga-headsets. david clark has
one as well. i thing aircraft spruce carries them.
ole
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: copper ground plane |
From: | erich_weaver(at)urscorp.com |
03/27/2001 12:30:01 PM
Im sure some thin copper sheeting can be scrounged from a roofing
contractor. But wouldnt some thin aluminum sheeting from the local
hardware store work for a ground plane too?
Erich Weaver
erich_weaver(at)urscorp.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Ben Ransom <bwr000(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: tank and BRS location options |
>
>
> I can't see how you can get a big enough tank above your head in the
> gap
> seal unless it sticks out above a few inches. Haven't done the math
> but it looks too small.
To me, a bump on the top of such a tank would not be a problem. The
main hurdle would be that the BRS cable connects to the top center
tube. Therefore, a slot would have to be made in the tank, and of
course, made such that a BRS deployment would not dislodge or break the
tank.
> If it doesn't interfere with aileron controls I
> think I
> would hang the BRS underneath the fuse tube at about the same spot.
> Then I
> would be able to use that space. If you made a tank to start at the
> main
> root tube and go down from there making it flush with the sides I
> would
> think that would be the best use of space. I can see getting at least
> 8 gals
> there and still having lots of room underneath.
That would be nice too. It would allow easy inspection of the aileron
linkage, and avoid the BRS cable problem mentioned above. However, it
would probably be tougher to remove the tank for whatever reason may
come up. Anyway, I'll look at that possibility too.
> Get building, I miss your flying pictures!!
> Scott Olendorf
thanks Scott... and I miss taking them! :) I finally got around to
welding the added fuselage cage tubes on yesterday. (adding braces to
the bottom most longerons that go from the gear legs back to the rear
fuselage tube H attachment). In spite of practicing a lot on scrap,
getting in there and welding your own structure and trying to get the
torch into tight spaces is hard work. I think I did okay but certainly
no beauty prizes. Next I need to order material for a new left side
lift strut and landing gear legs. Coming up next is wing alignment and
repaint the cage where welded. After that, recovering.
-Ben Ransom
ps: Richard, thanks for the tank picture and note.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Ben Ransom <bwr000(at)yahoo.com> |
> to solve the prop clearance problem and the damage associated to the
> frame with hard landings. I think the Slingshot gear is the answer
> but
> tying it in to the cage is going to recquire a bit of engineering .
> Anybody have any experience with this gear on the Ultrastar. I think
> the
> weight(steel) is the one factor that might screw this
> up....Alternative
> landing gear legs...?... Another benefit could be a longer prop if
Ed,
You'd still need to dig for this a little if interested, but the cover
of EAA Experimenter a couple years ago was a fantastic lookin
Ultrastar, including longer (steel) legs. If I recall correctly, it
was an Oshkosh award, so probably approximately an Oct issue.
-Ben Ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Re: Do I need a static port? |
> Will adding doors but not a full enclosure produce the faulty reading or
> do I need to pay for my fumbling of the instrument?
>
> Erich Weaver
Erich and Gang:
Through my own personal experience I would guess you now
have lower static pressure inside the cockpit where ever you
are picking up static pressure for your ASI, probably out
the back of the instrument. Doubt if your ASI is
unreliable.
1993, Sun & Fun, had the opportunity to spend about an hour
with Steve Whitman, as he went over my MK III with a fine
tooth comb. He claimed I had his landing gear on my
airplane. I politely told him those were "Hauck" gear
legs. :-)
I had low ASI readings caused by a Kolsman pitot/static
system (WWII vintage from a Stearman). Wanted my ASI to
tell me what I was flying and not what it wanted to tell
me. Asked Mr. Whitman what he did about ASI/Static readings
to get them right in the ball park. He said he took the
static reading right off the back of the ASI. Did not worry
whether his ASI was indicating fast or slow. The main thing
was to find out at what indicated airspeed the aircraft
stalled. Did not matter at what altitude, it would always
stall at that indicated airspeed.
He also told me to cut the pitot tube at a 45 degree angle.
Said it would give more constant readings across the scale
as the air speed decreased, the angle of attack became
greater, and stall speed was approached.
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Re: copper ground plane |
But wouldnt some thin aluminum sheeting from the local
> hardware store work for a ground plane too?
>
> Erich Weaver
Erich and Gang:
That is what I use, scrape aluminum sheet, for both VHF comm
and ELT. Both have proven to work great. Ground planes
didn't cost me anything.
I accidently hit the toggle switch with something to
activate it, unbeknownst to me. I got a phone call from the
Civil Air Patrol and a nasty followup letter because of my
unwitting mistake.
I remember being over at Gantt International Airport (my
grass strip in Johnnie Gantt's cow pasture and front yard)
working on my MK III, when a Cessna 172 came screaming down
my airstrip about 10 feet off the ground. Did not realize
it at the time, but that was the CAP looking for the dumb
ass who was transmitting on 121.5.
If you have an ELT on board, last thing to check before
turning off the radio is dial in 121.5 to see if your ELT is
not transmitting. I know we did this in Army helicopters
and I think that was part of the check list in the 152 I had
to fly to get a private ticket.
In 1993, when my 582 locked up for the second time in about
15 minutes (yea, I learned the hard way), I landed about 30
feet in the above the ground. Tore up the MK III, bruised
my butt, but I walked away from it. OOPS!!! I screwed up
again. My last thought was the ELT. Of course it activated
when I pan caked in. Got a phone call later that night from
the FAA guy in Birmingham. Wanted to know about my crash in
the farmers pasture about a mile north of Wetumpka Airport.
ELT signal was picked up when it activated, FAA called,
found my airplane and wanted to know why I had not reported
the crash. I was very honest with him. Told him that this
type incident/accident was quite common with ultralights and
two stroke engines, whether they were registered
experimental or not. That if I called them everytime
something like this happened they would never have time to
investigate more serious GA accidents. He bought it.
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Re: tank and BRS location options |
I finally got around to
> welding the added fuselage cage tubes on yesterday. (adding braces to
> the bottom most longerons that go from the gear legs back to the rear
> fuselage tube H attachment).
> -Ben Ransom
Ben and Gang:
Winter 1988, Brother Jim and I rebuilt, updated,
reconfigured my old original Firestar. One of the
improvements, at that time, was welding a tube around the
rear of the fuselage, down one side and up the other, to tie
all those long longerons together, thus greatly reducing the
size of the tube bays. That one little tube greatly
increased the strength of the fuselage. These longerons
were also being pulled out of column by shrinking of the
fabric. A hard landing and they got bent. This was Jim's
original idea for improvement and I want to give him credit
for that and many other innovations to improve Kolb
aircraft.
In February 1991, Jim was modifying and building the
fuselage for my MK III, at the old Kolb Factory. Of course,
at that time Jim added the tube around the rear portion of
the fuselage. My serial number is M3-011. Kolb picked up
on it then and began adding to newly fabricated fuselages.
During that month I spent with Homer Kolb and the Kolb gang
in Pennsylvania, building my Mark III fuselage, Jim
incorporated many improvements to streamline fabrication of
Kolb's aircraft parts, at the factory, and make improvements
to the fuselages.
While I am beating my Brother's drum and patting him on the
back, I may as well add that the beautiful dual controls in
my MK III, that were designed and fabricated in 1991, by
Brother Jim, are now the standard dual controls for the MK
III and MK III Extra.
I might add that the engineering numbers were developed by
our old flying and building buddy, Seth Mathews, who has
gone on the the big airstrip in the sky.
There is a lot of Hauck in a lot of the airplanes you guys
are flying now, thanks to me crashing/breaking/wearing them
out, and Brother Jim figuring out how to fix and improve
them. We do not redesign Kolb aircraft, rather make a few
improvements to keep me flying long enough to get there and
get home. Right, I did not get there and get home last
year, but the improvements have been made, heat treated,
aligned, assembled, painted, and ready to install on the
fuselage. :-) I believe we, me and Miss P'fer, will make
it this year.
I would not be able to do what I do, with these little
airplanes, without the help of my big Brother Jim.
Thanks Jim,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Denny Rowe" <rowedl(at)alltel.net> |
Subject: | Re: Gear box oil |
Jimmy,
Yes, your engine should be level when checking the gear oil.
Denny
----- Original Message -----
From: JIMMY HANKINSON <jhankin(at)planters.net>
Sent: Tuesday, March 27, 2001 12:16 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Gear box oil
>
> When replacing or checking oil level in a "B" gear box on a 447 Rotax
> should the engine and gear box be level by raising the tail up to a
> level position?
>
> Jimmy
> Firefly #35
> Southeast, Georgia
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated Mon, 26 Mar 2001 7:22:58 PM Eastern Standard Time, David Hempy
writes:
I've recently joined this list and perused the archives, searching for
anything about the Ultrastar. Pleased to find many references, all quite
complimentary.
You see, I just took in a homeless Ultrastar, and hope to restore
it...possibly next winter. It is in pretty rough shape, but I can see a
solid plane inside. I've posted a dozen or so pictures on the website
below. The neglect is evident, but there does not appear to be any
damage. I'll tear it all down, recover the wings, sand and paint the
fuselage, and so on. I'm sure you guys will get tired of my questions
before long.
I'm interested in the discussion on extending the gear. The Cuyuna on it
is probably serviceable, but I'll probably use a good 447 I've got in the
attic. Or possibly a 503, but I'm going to try my darndest to keep this
thing as light as possible. In any event, I would welcome a larger prop.
Here's some pictures:
http://www.bluegrassultralightgroup.org/members/hempy/ultrastar/
-dave
David Hempy -- USUA Region 6 Representative (KY-IN-MI-OH)
ASC Trike BFI #BKY56 -- www.BluegrassUltralightGroup.org -- EAA #456510
-- -- (c)2001,DBH
Views expressed are solely my own, unless explicitly stated otherwise.
Dave...nice pictures...looks almost as good as my firestar KX just the way it
is...just teasin'
GeoR38
Akron Ohio
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Michael Ransom <mlransom(at)ucdavis.edu> |
Subject: | Re: tank and BRS location options |
Hi, Mike Ransom here, out of "not even lurking" mode. (I filter--sorry!)
I've got a couple cents worth of input on this thread:
I wouldn't think the drag of having a "gap seal" tank with a "bump" on it
would be significant. That engine up there on the Firestar has got to have
the same flat-plate equivalent of the entire fuselage, for those of you
with more complete enclosures. My guess would be that adding a nicely
fared bump in front of the engine could easily cut the drag of the
projecting engine in half. Ben's gone in that direction partially with his
fiberglass engine cowling
(http://mae.ucdavis.edu/~ransom/BensAlbum/build/a7cowling.html) but
reported no noticable performance difference. I'm thinking that most of
the drag actually comes from the fan, the muffler and the carb.
I think it would be a great place except for one thing: any fuel
leaks/overflows (or spills from lost gas caps) would blow straight back to
the engine. Particularly if it was all enclosed in a shared fairing.
I really don't like *any* of the options of fuel tanks in the cage area.
Does anyone know what the conventional wisdom is on this, or the accident
record for various configurations? I think this is one of those area where
us ultralighters need to be particularly careful: ultralight design is not
subject to any regulation or oversight (except from the "user" community),
and there is the ever-present compromise in ultralights to squeze all
possible performance out of the available 255 pounds. I would think that a
very sturdy gas tank with good crashworthyness is essential, even at the
cost of a few extra pounds. (Safety is what really bugs me about the 255
lb. limit.)
What about mounting removable gas tanks near the root of each wing? I
picture lifting them in and out from the bottom.
Or, why not just drain and refill wing tanks as needed? It really wouldn't
take that long. That would avoid the need for fuel line disconects and
keep things simpler.
If you wanted to fold wings with filled tanks, I suppose the vent would
have to trail back from the max chord area to rear-of-the-tank zone, and an
additional tube or manually operated vent attached to the rear edge of the
tank. (Since the folded wing is pointing straight down for all but the
UltraStar.)
-Mike
>
>I can't see how you can get a big enough tank above your head in the gap
>seal unless it sticks out above a few inches. Haven't done the math but it
>looks too small. If it doesn't interfere with aileron controls I think I
>would hang the BRS underneath the fuse tube at about the same spot. Then I
>would be able to use that space. If you made a tank to start at the main
>root tube and go down from there making it flush with the sides I would
>think that would be the best use of space. I can see getting at least 8 gals
>there and still having lots of room underneath.
>
>Get building, I miss your flying pictures!!
>
>Scott Olendorf
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Ben Ransom" <bwr000(at)yahoo.com>
>To:
>Sent: Monday, March 26, 2001 1:31 PM
>Subject: Kolb-List: tank and BRS location options
>
>
>>
>> Scott,
>> I just checked out some of your web pics. I've had my BRS(4) installed
>> in the same place as yours. Yes, a tight squeeze. Unfortunately, mine
>> was easy to remove because I had to tear off all the fabric for cage
>> repairs! In my rebuild, I've wanted to get either the gas tank or the
>> BRS out of that fine baggage area. I do like keeping the BRS out of
>> the rain and also inside for less drag. I specifically do not like
>> sharing cabin space with a gas tank, and I've also wondered how smart
>> it is to mount a gas tank and hoses right on top of a BRS rocket.
>>
>> I had been sure I would make tanks in the wings, but abandoned that
>> idea. Vent tube ideas get really complicated when considering how to
>> allow for the wings in folded position, and filling the tank while on
>> the trailer also gets ugly. So, my current plan is to look again at
>> making a custom tank between the wings -- I think Richard Pike did
>> that. Ideally, such a tank would combine with whatever surfaces are
>> needed to serve as gap seal, negating the need to put that on or off at
>> each wing fold. Got to also consider safety parameters in having it
>> mounted basically above the pilot, but I think it is fair to assume
>> that in a crash landing bad enf to break the tank, nothing would be
>> sitting in normal position anyway.
>> -Ben Ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Michael Ransom <mlransom(at)ucdavis.edu> |
Ed,
You won't have to dig. I made contact with the designer/builder of this
Ultrastar landing gear mod by way of this list, and he may have seen your
said it was fine to post in a web page. He was very gracious and modest
about it, but the quality is obvious. I don't seem to have it here at
work, so will try to dig it up at home in the next couple of evenings and
add it to my Ultrastar web pages. (http://128.120.215.11/~mike/FLYING/)
The mod is basically nested CrMo tubing, welded and heat treated. Also,
the complete mod mates to his highly modified cage, but the basics would be
the same. Will cost a few extra pounds, but you won't be able to avoid
that with a bigger prop and heavier engine. Weight (for same strength)
probably goes up as a square of the gear length, but some springiness
should reduce strength requirement some from that.
I personally would like to come up with a sprung design of my own (for
kicks?), but have elected to not try to avoid all prop breaks with an
excessively tall design and instead stuck with a more expendable wooden
prop. There were two times when I almost broke the prop: once when my
standard gear broke (landed about 3 feet too high when I was first
learning) and once when a greater-than-max crosswind landing forced me off
into the furrows of a tomato field. Other than that, it really hasn't been
a problem for me in my ~50 hours of flying the thing, tho I do generally
consider it a weakness of the original design. The original design
Ultrastar really teaches you to grease your landings! You may also want to
consider putting the mains a touch further ahead of the CG if you want more
braking power without noseover, but I prefer the better handling of the
stock location. Definitely stick with stock if you don't add brakes.
(Wish *I* had a big grass strip!)
-Mike
>
>
>> to solve the prop clearance problem and the damage associated to the
>> frame with hard landings. I think the Slingshot gear is the answer
>> but
>> tying it in to the cage is going to recquire a bit of engineering .
>> Anybody have any experience with this gear on the Ultrastar. I think
>> the
>> weight(steel) is the one factor that might screw this
>> up....Alternative
>> landing gear legs...?... Another benefit could be a longer prop if
>
>Ed,
>You'd still need to dig for this a little if interested, but the cover
>of EAA Experimenter a couple years ago was a fantastic lookin
>Ultrastar, including longer (steel) legs. If I recall correctly, it
>was an Oshkosh award, so probably approximately an Oct issue.
>-Ben Ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Woody <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
Subject: | Re: Gear leg socket goop? |
Just use ordinary grease. The important thing and this should be noted
by new builders is to make sure the leg slides into the socket it goes in
easily. If you force it in you will have trouble forcing it out after you
bend it. If you hammer it in you will have a real problem getting it out. I
do not want to say how I know.
>What material might be used to apply to the socket/leg to facilitate
>installation and removal?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Bill G.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "pablo lopez" <pablo_lopez21(at)hotmail.com> |
can some one direct me to us clasiffieds please
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Denny Rowe" <rowedl(at)alltel.net> |
Subject: | Re: tank and BRS location options |
John,
I want to thank Jim and you for improving my aircraft. I have Mk-3 serial
number 90, (Yes, it still is not finished) but soon will be, my airframe
has the extra stiffener you speak of. When I am shrinking the fuselage
fabric, I'll be thinking of you folks. When I am flying, I'll be thanking
Homer and Dennis S for the performance.
Keep up the good work,
Denny
----- Original Message -----
From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Sent: Tuesday, March 27, 2001 2:00 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: tank and BRS location options
>
>
> I finally got around to
> > welding the added fuselage cage tubes on yesterday. (adding braces to
> > the bottom most longerons that go from the gear legs back to the rear
> > fuselage tube H attachment).
> > -Ben Ransom
>
> Ben and Gang:
>
> Winter 1988, Brother Jim and I rebuilt, updated,
> reconfigured my old original Firestar. One of the
> improvements, at that time, was welding a tube around the
> rear of the fuselage, down one side and up the other, to tie
> all those long longerons together, thus greatly reducing the
> size of the tube bays. That one little tube greatly
> increased the strength of the fuselage. These longerons
> were also being pulled out of column by shrinking of the
> fabric. A hard landing and they got bent. This was Jim's
> original idea for improvement and I want to give him credit
> for that and many other innovations to improve Kolb
> aircraft.
>
> In February 1991, Jim was modifying and building the
> fuselage for my MK III, at the old Kolb Factory. Of course,
> at that time Jim added the tube around the rear portion of
> the fuselage. My serial number is M3-011. Kolb picked up
> on it then and began adding to newly fabricated fuselages.
>
> During that month I spent with Homer Kolb and the Kolb gang
> in Pennsylvania, building my Mark III fuselage, Jim
> incorporated many improvements to streamline fabrication of
> Kolb's aircraft parts, at the factory, and make improvements
> to the fuselages.
>
> While I am beating my Brother's drum and patting him on the
> back, I may as well add that the beautiful dual controls in
> my MK III, that were designed and fabricated in 1991, by
> Brother Jim, are now the standard dual controls for the MK
> III and MK III Extra.
> I might add that the engineering numbers were developed by
> our old flying and building buddy, Seth Mathews, who has
> gone on the the big airstrip in the sky.
>
> There is a lot of Hauck in a lot of the airplanes you guys
> are flying now, thanks to me crashing/breaking/wearing them
> out, and Brother Jim figuring out how to fix and improve
> them. We do not redesign Kolb aircraft, rather make a few
> improvements to keep me flying long enough to get there and
> get home. Right, I did not get there and get home last
> year, but the improvements have been made, heat treated,
> aligned, assembled, painted, and ready to install on the
> fuselage. :-) I believe we, me and Miss P'fer, will make
> it this year.
>
> I would not be able to do what I do, with these little
> airplanes, without the help of my big Brother Jim.
>
> Thanks Jim,
>
> john h
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | b young <byoung(at)brigham.net> |
"kolb-list(at)matronics.com"
"Ian Heritch"
Subject: Kolb-List: Copper Tape
Anyone have a clue as to where I can buy 1" copper tape, or
thin copper foil
I can cut into 1" strips? I am going to use this stuff to
make a ground
plane for my com antenna.
Ian Heritch
Slingshot 912, San Antonio
my original thought was to get 1/2 inch wide copper foil and
make my antenna..... best i could find at the time was 1/4
inch...... so i build a dipole out of coax..... the swr
match is quite good the url is a picture before
installation
http://www.brigham.net/~byoung/antenna.html
i have visited with a plane over 120 miles with a sporties
300 radio (1 watt carrier) was told had good signal
strength but had background noise..... considering how
noisy the kolb is i felt good with that report.
fyi for your info the 1 inch should give you a broader
bandwidth than what i put together (lower swr on the
fringes of the band) but i have been happy with mine.
don't only use the foil for the ground plane.... use it
also for the radiator of the antenna. if you would like a
photo of my instalation let me know
boyd
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Richard Swiderski" <swiderskir(at)earthlink.net> |
Ed,
Regarding below post, I forgot to mention that I cut out a portion of
the top fuselage longeron which raised the nose about 11". But all of this
is of no use to you if you are putting on a FireStar cage. I'm sorry about
that! Also, Mikes comment about moving wheels forward is exactly what I did
& it increased my breaking 200%. Thanks Mike.
Mikes post re: KZ's setup, I believe is definitely the finest choice.
The best US flaperon setup (even better than mine!) was on an award winning
light green US with all the mods we've been discussing, just don't know his
name. I saw it at Sun&Fun
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Swiderski" <swiderskir(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Monday, March 26, 2001 6:01 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Ultrastar
>
> Ed,
>
> Regarding longer legs, fiberglass will be heaviest of all reasonable
> options. If you use SS or other "off the shelf legs" you will have to
build
> a hefty box structure which is additional weight. My research led me to
> believe the lightest method is to use the existing attachments (or
slightly
> modify them) & use large diameter tubing of relitively thin wall thickness
> (0.32"). If memory serves me right, the front tube was 1 1/8" or 1 1/4" &
> the rear tube was 7/8". I used a nearly solid 5/8" axle gussetted to the
> two tubes, but a heavy wall 3/4" might be better. The 2 legs had a simple
X
> assembly holding them together. The X had a sliding mechanism that
allowed
> it to expand. Bungie wraps held the slide together & a 3/16" bolt acted
as
> a stop if the bungie overextended. It was light & strong & took
tremendous
> abuse.
>
> Regarding carb heat: There is a product to unthaw frozen pipes. It
> is simply a flat wire with a high resistance (nicrome?). You just wrapped
> around the pipe & plugged it in! You could leave it on to prevent
frezzing.
> Could you not just wrap your carbs with the stuff & let your A/C current
> keep the carbs snug?
>
>
> .....I now have a couple more
> > for the list. I want to modify the ultrastar with a longer flexible gear
> > to solve the prop clearance problem and the damage associated to the
> > frame with hard landings. I think the Slingshot gear is the answer but
> > tying it in to the cage is going to recquire a bit of engineering .
> I think the
> > weight(steel) is the one factor that might screw this up....Alternative
> > landing gear legs...?... Another benefit could be a longer prop if the
> > frame was deepened at the same time.
>
>
> The other question is in regards to an electric
> > carburetor heat unit that runs off the lighting coil that is available
> > for the 36mm Bing . Is there a similar unit for a 32mm MIkuni ? Or is
> > there another way to heat the Mikuni mounted on a Cayuna UL1102 ?.....
>
> ...Ed Steuber
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dennis Souder" <flykolb(at)epix.net> |
Old Kolb had done an adaptor for the US that allowed the use of FireStar
gear legs. It was a self-contained welded assembly which bolted to the gear
attach points under the US frame. The 1-1/4" OD 4130 tube housing
paralleled the bottom cage tube and then the part the gear legs inserted
into was welded on at the appropriate angle on both ends. A short heavy
wall tube was weled on each side that extended forward and attached to the
front gear leg attach point - this took up the torsion loads. It was an
easy retro fit - of course now you would need to make it yourself. If your
cage is already damaged then you could make it an integral part of the
frame.
Forget the SS legs they are much stronger (and heavier) than needed for the
US. Try to keep it light, adding weight changes its personality. Another
alternative would be larger balloon tires run at low pressure on the
standard gear.
Dennis
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Richard
Swiderski
Sent: Tuesday, March 27, 2001 9:55 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Ultrastar
Ed,
Regarding below post, I forgot to mention that I cut out a portion of
the top fuselage longeron which raised the nose about 11". But all of this
is of no use to you if you are putting on a FireStar cage. I'm sorry about
that! Also, Mikes comment about moving wheels forward is exactly what I did
& it increased my breaking 200%. Thanks Mike.
Mikes post re: KZ's setup, I believe is definitely the finest choice.
The best US flaperon setup (even better than mine!) was on an award winning
light green US with all the mods we've been discussing, just don't know his
name. I saw it at Sun&Fun
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Swiderski" <swiderskir(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Monday, March 26, 2001 6:01 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Ultrastar
>
> Ed,
>
> Regarding longer legs, fiberglass will be heaviest of all reasonable
> options. If you use SS or other "off the shelf legs" you will have to
build
> a hefty box structure which is additional weight. My research led me to
> believe the lightest method is to use the existing attachments (or
slightly
> modify them) & use large diameter tubing of relitively thin wall thickness
> (0.32"). If memory serves me right, the front tube was 1 1/8" or 1 1/4" &
> the rear tube was 7/8". I used a nearly solid 5/8" axle gussetted to the
> two tubes, but a heavy wall 3/4" might be better. The 2 legs had a simple
X
> assembly holding them together. The X had a sliding mechanism that
allowed
> it to expand. Bungie wraps held the slide together & a 3/16" bolt acted
as
> a stop if the bungie overextended. It was light & strong & took
tremendous
> abuse.
>
> Regarding carb heat: There is a product to unthaw frozen pipes. It
> is simply a flat wire with a high resistance (nicrome?). You just wrapped
> around the pipe & plugged it in! You could leave it on to prevent
frezzing.
> Could you not just wrap your carbs with the stuff & let your A/C current
> keep the carbs snug?
>
>
> .....I now have a couple more
> > for the list. I want to modify the ultrastar with a longer flexible gear
> > to solve the prop clearance problem and the damage associated to the
> > frame with hard landings. I think the Slingshot gear is the answer but
> > tying it in to the cage is going to recquire a bit of engineering .
> I think the
> > weight(steel) is the one factor that might screw this up....Alternative
> > landing gear legs...?... Another benefit could be a longer prop if the
> > frame was deepened at the same time.
>
>
> The other question is in regards to an electric
> > carburetor heat unit that runs off the lighting coil that is available
> > for the 36mm Bing . Is there a similar unit for a 32mm MIkuni ? Or is
> > there another way to heat the Mikuni mounted on a Cayuna UL1102 ?.....
>
> ...Ed Steuber
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Larry Bourne" <larrybiglar(at)msn.com> |
Subject: | Re: copper ground plane |
Yah, the aluminum should work, and I did an experiment on that idea last
year. Now, with the new antenna design by Boyd Young, I won't need it.
Anyway, FWIW, I took a sheet of heavy aluminum foil, and a small - about 1"
x 1" piece of .025 aluminum with the edges rounded, and polished smooth. I
have some of that fluxless aluminum solder they sell at air and boat
shows........where they do the demonstration of punching a hole in a beer
can, and welding it up. Stuff's impressive, and REALLY does work.
So........melted a gob of solder onto the .025, then put it solder side down
on the foil. GENTLY heat the piece with a propane torch, till the solder
flows, and get the heat off. Now, you've got a sheet of foil, with a
mounting tab welded onto it. It would be simple to spray some of that 3M
upholstery stick-um from a spray can onto your nose cone inside, or
where-ever. From the research I've done, I have no doubt this would be a
workable solution, but the bipole antenna of Boyd's works so good, and is so
simple, I don't see the need for it. Scientific Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.biglar.homestead.com/larry.html
.
----- Original Message -----
From: <erich_weaver(at)urscorp.com>
Sent: Tuesday, March 27, 2001 9:31 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: copper ground plane
>
>
> Im sure some thin copper sheeting can be scrounged from a roofing
> contractor. But wouldnt some thin aluminum sheeting from the local
> hardware store work for a ground plane too?
>
> Erich Weaver
> erich_weaver(at)urscorp.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org> |
Subject: | Re: Do I need a static port? |
Static port will solve the problem.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>
>I recently installed doors, but not the full enclosure with rear panels, on
>my Mrk III. Sure am glad to have that wind out of my face!. Now I see my
>airspeed indicator is way off (reads high). I would assume that I need a
>static port, unless its alternatively due to me accidentally dropping the
>instrument when I changed my panel a while back. No visual damage from
>dropping, and seems to work ok except for being high.
>
>Will adding doors but not a full enclosure produce the faulty reading or
>do I need to pay for my fumbling of the instrument?
>
>
>Erich Weaver
>erich_weaver(at)urscorp.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)peoplepc.com> |
, ,
, ,
, ,
, ,
, ,
, ,
, ,
, ,
, ,
Subject: | Version 2.0 Experimental Panel Builder |
Version 2.0 of the Experimental Panel Builder is up and running. The
response to Version 1.0 was almost overwhelming and we received many
requests for additional panels and instruments. We've tried to
accommodate as many as possible but if we've missed something please let
us know by clicking on the "Request New Panels" or "Request New
Instruments" link.
After we published version 1.0 fellow RV List member, RV-8 Builder
(soon to be RV-7 builder) and web master extraordinaire, Jared Boone
(Portland, OR) offered us some suggestions on how we could make things
work a little better. I had some discussions with Jared via email and
even tossed back a brewski or two with him on a recent visit to
Portland. Jared took time out of his busy work schedule (guess what he
does for a living) and helped turn out the version of code that you see
here. Truly remarkable and Bill and I owe him a lot of thanks.
So what's new?
First, you can now save your work. Yes, that's right. After creating a
panel, all you have to do is log out or go to another web page. The
next time you log in you're panel will still be right there were you
left off. Neat.
Space saving organization. Drop down menu's allow you to select the
panel you're interested and the category of instruments your interested
in working on. This saves space and makes creating panels easier.
Duplicate items. Now you can drag as many items onto the panel as you
like. Just keep dragging them up there. You want lots of circuit
breaker and switches. Just keep dragging them up.
If you don't like an instrument then just drag it off the panel and it
goes away. Don't like any of your work and want to start over? Just
hit the reset button.
Because of all the code changes, the time it takes for the initial page
to load has been greatly reduced because it doesn't have to load all the
images at once.
After the last version was published we received a ton or requests for
additional panels and equipment. This is where Bill Vondane came to the
rescue.
Bill jumped into action and developed no less than 20, yes 20, new
panels and added many more instruments. After Jared modified the code
to make the new changes possible, Bill had to add all the new data, and
modify things to get it published. Bill also created the user interface
and "Tips" page to help makes things a little clearer.
Bill and Jared have graciously donated LOTS of time and effort to bring
this tool to it's present state. Remember, these guys both have planes
to build and busy jobs and families to take care of.
Enjoy the updated version and let us know what you think.
Alas, there is a downside. For all those Microsoft haters out there,
this new version is even LESS Netscape friendly than the pervious
version. At this time, due to the methods used to create some of the
features, ONLY Internet Explore 5.5 can be used to access the new
features. Jared is working on making it compatible with earlier
versions of Internet Explorer so until that time, the earlier version
1.0 is still available to use.
We're talking about developing some techniques that will allow ALL
browsers to work but that's still a ways off as time and energy permits.
Check it out. http://sonexlinks.com/panelbuilder/ or link to it from
my page http://bmnellis.com or Bills page http://vondane.com/rv8a
Guess what? It's still free! What a country.
Mike Nellis
Stinson 108-2 N9666K
RV-6 N699BM (reserved)
Plainfield, IL (LOT)
http://bmnellis.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Denny Rowe" <rowedl(at)alltel.net> |
OK, guys,
We have been through this before, the fellow with the light green US is from
Ohio, and his name escapes me once again. I met him at Tappan Lake a while
back, a real craftsman. Come on, somebody on the list remembers his name.
His name is on the tip of my - "wait a minute" ( Tchanz ) or somthing close
to that, I think his first name is maybe Tom. Try that in the archive
search engine.
His US is so nice, he should be a household name on this list. I don't know
why I can never remember his name.
IF I find my old Experimenter magazine with his plane, I'll have my buddy
scan the photos so I can send them to interested US builders.
Take Care,
Denny
----- Original Message -----
From: Richard Swiderski <swiderskir(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Tuesday, March 27, 2001 9:54 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Ultrastar
>
> Ed,
>
> Regarding below post, I forgot to mention that I cut out a portion of
> the top fuselage longeron which raised the nose about 11". But all of
this
> is of no use to you if you are putting on a FireStar cage. I'm sorry
about
> that! Also, Mikes comment about moving wheels forward is exactly what I
did
> & it increased my breaking 200%. Thanks Mike.
>
> Mikes post re: KZ's setup, I believe is definitely the finest choice.
> The best US flaperon setup (even better than mine!) was on an award
winning
> light green US with all the mods we've been discussing, just don't know
his
> name. I saw it at Sun&Fun
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Richard Swiderski" <swiderskir(at)earthlink.net>
> To:
> Sent: Monday, March 26, 2001 6:01 PM
> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Ultrastar
>
>
>
> >
> > Ed,
> >
> > Regarding longer legs, fiberglass will be heaviest of all
reasonable
> > options. If you use SS or other "off the shelf legs" you will have to
> build
> > a hefty box structure which is additional weight. My research led me to
> > believe the lightest method is to use the existing attachments (or
> slightly
> > modify them) & use large diameter tubing of relitively thin wall
thickness
> > (0.32"). If memory serves me right, the front tube was 1 1/8" or 1 1/4"
&
> > the rear tube was 7/8". I used a nearly solid 5/8" axle gussetted to
the
> > two tubes, but a heavy wall 3/4" might be better. The 2 legs had a
simple
> X
> > assembly holding them together. The X had a sliding mechanism that
> allowed
> > it to expand. Bungie wraps held the slide together & a 3/16" bolt acted
> as
> > a stop if the bungie overextended. It was light & strong & took
> tremendous
> > abuse.
> >
> > Regarding carb heat: There is a product to unthaw frozen pipes.
It
> > is simply a flat wire with a high resistance (nicrome?). You just
wrapped
> > around the pipe & plugged it in! You could leave it on to prevent
> frezzing.
> > Could you not just wrap your carbs with the stuff & let your A/C current
> > keep the carbs snug?
> >
> >
> > .....I now have a couple more
> > > for the list. I want to modify the ultrastar with a longer flexible
gear
> > > to solve the prop clearance problem and the damage associated to the
> > > frame with hard landings. I think the Slingshot gear is the answer but
> > > tying it in to the cage is going to recquire a bit of engineering .
> > I think the
> > > weight(steel) is the one factor that might screw this
up....Alternative
> > > landing gear legs...?... Another benefit could be a longer prop if
the
> > > frame was deepened at the same time.
> >
> >
> > The other question is in regards to an electric
> > > carburetor heat unit that runs off the lighting coil that is available
> > > for the 36mm Bing . Is there a similar unit for a 32mm MIkuni ? Or is
> > > there another way to heat the Mikuni mounted on a Cayuna UL1102 ?.....
> >
> > ...Ed Steuber
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Rayfield, Bill" <brayfield(at)kcc.com> |
FYI, we have this gear on our Ultrastar, and though we haven't flown it yet,
so far we are pleased with the setup. We have a 2SI 430 with a 56" IVO with
good ground clearance (this is a good bit longer than the standard prop). If
possible, I'll try to take some pics for those interested.
Bill Rayfield
Kimberly-Clark, Corp.
Nonwovens Engineering
phone: 770-587-8371
email: brayfield(at)kcc.com
fax: 770-587-7240
-----Original Message-----
From: Dennis Souder [mailto:flykolb(at)epix.net]
Sent: Tuesday, March 27, 2001 10:50 PM
Subject: RE: Kolb-List: Ultrastar
Old Kolb had done an adaptor for the US that allowed the use of FireStar
gear legs. It was a self-contained welded assembly which bolted to the gear
attach points under the US frame. The 1-1/4" OD 4130 tube housing
paralleled the bottom cage tube and then the part the gear legs inserted
into was welded on at the appropriate angle on both ends. A short heavy
wall tube was weled on each side that extended forward and attached to the
front gear leg attach point - this took up the torsion loads. It was an
easy retro fit - of course now you would need to make it yourself. If your
cage is already damaged then you could make it an integral part of the
frame.
Forget the SS legs they are much stronger (and heavier) than needed for the
US. Try to keep it light, adding weight changes its personality. Another
alternative would be larger balloon tires run at low pressure on the
standard gear.
Dennis
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Richard
Swiderski
Sent: Tuesday, March 27, 2001 9:55 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Ultrastar
Ed,
Regarding below post, I forgot to mention that I cut out a portion of
the top fuselage longeron which raised the nose about 11". But all of this
is of no use to you if you are putting on a FireStar cage. I'm sorry about
that! Also, Mikes comment about moving wheels forward is exactly what I did
& it increased my breaking 200%. Thanks Mike.
Mikes post re: KZ's setup, I believe is definitely the finest choice.
The best US flaperon setup (even better than mine!) was on an award winning
light green US with all the mods we've been discussing, just don't know his
name. I saw it at Sun&Fun
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Swiderski" <swiderskir(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Monday, March 26, 2001 6:01 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Ultrastar
>
> Ed,
>
> Regarding longer legs, fiberglass will be heaviest of all reasonable
> options. If you use SS or other "off the shelf legs" you will have to
build
> a hefty box structure which is additional weight. My research led me to
> believe the lightest method is to use the existing attachments (or
slightly
> modify them) & use large diameter tubing of relitively thin wall thickness
> (0.32"). If memory serves me right, the front tube was 1 1/8" or 1 1/4" &
> the rear tube was 7/8". I used a nearly solid 5/8" axle gussetted to the
> two tubes, but a heavy wall 3/4" might be better. The 2 legs had a simple
X
> assembly holding them together. The X had a sliding mechanism that
allowed
> it to expand. Bungie wraps held the slide together & a 3/16" bolt acted
as
> a stop if the bungie overextended. It was light & strong & took
tremendous
> abuse.
>
> Regarding carb heat: There is a product to unthaw frozen pipes. It
> is simply a flat wire with a high resistance (nicrome?). You just wrapped
> around the pipe & plugged it in! You could leave it on to prevent
frezzing.
> Could you not just wrap your carbs with the stuff & let your A/C current
> keep the carbs snug?
>
>
> .....I now have a couple more
> > for the list. I want to modify the ultrastar with a longer flexible gear
> > to solve the prop clearance problem and the damage associated to the
> > frame with hard landings. I think the Slingshot gear is the answer but
> > tying it in to the cage is going to recquire a bit of engineering .
> I think the
> > weight(steel) is the one factor that might screw this up....Alternative
> > landing gear legs...?... Another benefit could be a longer prop if the
> > frame was deepened at the same time.
>
>
> The other question is in regards to an electric
> > carburetor heat unit that runs off the lighting coil that is available
> > for the 36mm Bing . Is there a similar unit for a 32mm MIkuni ? Or is
> > there another way to heat the Mikuni mounted on a Cayuna UL1102 ?.....
>
> ...Ed Steuber
>
>
This e-mail is intended for the use of the addressee(s) only and may contain privileged,
confidential, or proprietary information that is exempt from disclosure
under law. If you have received this message in error, please inform us promptly
by reply e-mail, then delete the e-mail and destroy any printed copy.
Thank you.
==============================================================================
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Richmond <twoschmoops(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: tank and BRS location options |
Gentleman John,
It's great to know one of our "Fathers" of ultralighting is a gentleman
like you. Thanks for all the advice with humility you share.
You remind me of our cave diving "Father", a guy named Sheck Exley. He
went on to his big cave in the sky in 94, about a week before his 45th
b'day, attempting a world 1000' depth record in a cave in Mexico.
(927' reached) He had always been the premier caver, humble as heck
too, and always the one we idolized. He too pushed that envelope, made
the boo-boos, and redefined much of the diving equipment that is
standard today.
Although early in my u/l career, I can directly relate to improvements
in technology that were learned the hard ways by great pioneers. You,
and flyers like you, are appreciated about a million times more than
you are told. Like Sheck, you're making the molds for better equipment
that will help untold numbers of us followers.
Thanks again for always helping and respecting the nubiles.
--- John Hauck wrote:
>
>
> I finally got around to
> > welding the added fuselage cage tubes on yesterday. (adding braces
> to
> > the bottom most longerons that go from the gear legs back to the
> rear
> > fuselage tube H attachment).
> > -Ben Ransom
>
> Ben and Gang:
>
> Winter 1988, Brother Jim and I rebuilt, updated,
> reconfigured my old original Firestar. One of the
> improvements, at that time, was welding a tube around the
> rear of the fuselage, down one side and up the other, to tie
> all those long longerons together, thus greatly reducing the
> size of the tube bays. That one little tube greatly
> increased the strength of the fuselage. These longerons
> were also being pulled out of column by shrinking of the
> fabric. A hard landing and they got bent. This was Jim's
> original idea for improvement and I want to give him credit
> for that and many other innovations to improve Kolb
> aircraft.
>
> In February 1991, Jim was modifying and building the
> fuselage for my MK III, at the old Kolb Factory. Of course,
> at that time Jim added the tube around the rear portion of
> the fuselage. My serial number is M3-011. Kolb picked up
> on it then and began adding to newly fabricated fuselages.
>
> During that month I spent with Homer Kolb and the Kolb gang
> in Pennsylvania, building my Mark III fuselage, Jim
> incorporated many improvements to streamline fabrication of
> Kolb's aircraft parts, at the factory, and make improvements
> to the fuselages.
>
> While I am beating my Brother's drum and patting him on the
> back, I may as well add that the beautiful dual controls in
> my MK III, that were designed and fabricated in 1991, by
> Brother Jim, are now the standard dual controls for the MK
> III and MK III Extra.
> I might add that the engineering numbers were developed by
> our old flying and building buddy, Seth Mathews, who has
> gone on the the big airstrip in the sky.
>
> There is a lot of Hauck in a lot of the airplanes you guys
> are flying now, thanks to me crashing/breaking/wearing them
> out, and Brother Jim figuring out how to fix and improve
> them. We do not redesign Kolb aircraft, rather make a few
> improvements to keep me flying long enough to get there and
> get home. Right, I did not get there and get home last
> year, but the improvements have been made, heat treated,
> aligned, assembled, painted, and ready to install on the
> fuselage. :-) I believe we, me and Miss P'fer, will make
> it this year.
>
> I would not be able to do what I do, with these little
> airplanes, without the help of my big Brother Jim.
>
> Thanks Jim,
>
> john h
>
>
>
>
>
>
=====
John & Lynn Richmond :-)
Palm Coast, Fl.
Mk3, 582
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Rayfield, Bill" <brayfield(at)kcc.com> |
That's right Denny, Tom Tschantz was his name. I spoke with him a few years
ago before we bought our US. He had all kinds of mods:
hand operated hyd. brakes
flaperons
double ribs for higher strength (he actually did some light aerobatics with
it)
stock design LG, but much taller with big tires to allow for a Rotax 503
with a three-blade prop!
he also had a camera mount, and the lower portion of the rudder was extended
(as was the tailwheel) downward
He sold the plane several years ago, but said it would take off and go
straight up, and the flaperons (50 degrees of travel) would bring himin
really short.
That's all I can remember for now.
Bill Rayfield
Kimberly-Clark, Corp.
Nonwovens Engineering
phone: 770-587-8371
email: brayfield(at)kcc.com
fax: 770-587-7240
-----Original Message-----
From: Denny Rowe [mailto:rowedl(at)alltel.net]
Sent: Wednesday, March 28, 2001 7:18 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Ultrastar
OK, guys,
We have been through this before, the fellow with the light green US is from
Ohio, and his name escapes me once again. I met him at Tappan Lake a while
back, a real craftsman. Come on, somebody on the list remembers his name.
His name is on the tip of my - "wait a minute" ( Tchanz ) or somthing close
to that, I think his first name is maybe Tom. Try that in the archive
search engine.
His US is so nice, he should be a household name on this list. I don't know
why I can never remember his name.
IF I find my old Experimenter magazine with his plane, I'll have my buddy
scan the photos so I can send them to interested US builders.
Take Care,
Denny
----- Original Message -----
From: Richard Swiderski <swiderskir(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Tuesday, March 27, 2001 9:54 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Ultrastar
>
> Ed,
>
> Regarding below post, I forgot to mention that I cut out a portion of
> the top fuselage longeron which raised the nose about 11". But all of
this
> is of no use to you if you are putting on a FireStar cage. I'm sorry
about
> that! Also, Mikes comment about moving wheels forward is exactly what I
did
> & it increased my breaking 200%. Thanks Mike.
>
> Mikes post re: KZ's setup, I believe is definitely the finest choice.
> The best US flaperon setup (even better than mine!) was on an award
winning
> light green US with all the mods we've been discussing, just don't know
his
> name. I saw it at Sun&Fun
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Richard Swiderski" <swiderskir(at)earthlink.net>
> To:
> Sent: Monday, March 26, 2001 6:01 PM
> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Ultrastar
>
>
>
> >
> > Ed,
> >
> > Regarding longer legs, fiberglass will be heaviest of all
reasonable
> > options. If you use SS or other "off the shelf legs" you will have to
> build
> > a hefty box structure which is additional weight. My research led me to
> > believe the lightest method is to use the existing attachments (or
> slightly
> > modify them) & use large diameter tubing of relitively thin wall
thickness
> > (0.32"). If memory serves me right, the front tube was 1 1/8" or 1 1/4"
&
> > the rear tube was 7/8". I used a nearly solid 5/8" axle gussetted to
the
> > two tubes, but a heavy wall 3/4" might be better. The 2 legs had a
simple
> X
> > assembly holding them together. The X had a sliding mechanism that
> allowed
> > it to expand. Bungie wraps held the slide together & a 3/16" bolt acted
> as
> > a stop if the bungie overextended. It was light & strong & took
> tremendous
> > abuse.
> >
> > Regarding carb heat: There is a product to unthaw frozen pipes.
It
> > is simply a flat wire with a high resistance (nicrome?). You just
wrapped
> > around the pipe & plugged it in! You could leave it on to prevent
> frezzing.
> > Could you not just wrap your carbs with the stuff & let your A/C current
> > keep the carbs snug?
> >
> >
> > .....I now have a couple more
> > > for the list. I want to modify the ultrastar with a longer flexible
gear
> > > to solve the prop clearance problem and the damage associated to the
> > > frame with hard landings. I think the Slingshot gear is the answer but
> > > tying it in to the cage is going to recquire a bit of engineering .
> > I think the
> > > weight(steel) is the one factor that might screw this
up....Alternative
> > > landing gear legs...?... Another benefit could be a longer prop if
the
> > > frame was deepened at the same time.
> >
> >
> > The other question is in regards to an electric
> > > carburetor heat unit that runs off the lighting coil that is available
> > > for the 36mm Bing . Is there a similar unit for a 32mm MIkuni ? Or is
> > > there another way to heat the Mikuni mounted on a Cayuna UL1102 ?.....
> >
> > ...Ed Steuber
> >
> >
>
>
This e-mail is intended for the use of the addressee(s) only and may contain privileged,
confidential, or proprietary information that is exempt from disclosure
under law. If you have received this message in error, please inform us promptly
by reply e-mail, then delete the e-mail and destroy any printed copy.
Thank you.
==============================================================================
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 36 Msgs - 03/27/01 |
From: | Scott and Pam Trask <PTrask(at)diisd.org> |
on 3/28/01 1:50 AM, Kolb-List Digest Server at
kolb-list-digest(at)matronics.com wrote:
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> __
> From: bob n <ronoy(at)shentel.net>
> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Gear leg socket goop?
>
>
> Bill,
>
> The first thing that comes to my mind(?) for the gear-leg problem would
> be a smear of the copper-y anti seize grease used on GA (pardon the the
> word) sparkplugs.
>
> bn
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> __
Bill
Yes I use anti seize as while works great. It takes about a week to wash it
off your hands.
Scott Trask IMT MI
MK111
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "deckard" <deckard(at)sheltonbbs.com> |
Subject: | Reelfoot Lake Fly In West TN |
There is a ultralight gathering at Reelfoot Lake State park in W. TN on June
23-24. If anyone is in the area it will be a nice fly in. Info on the
following two pages. There's camping, a swimming pool, restaurant, and
cabins at the airfield.
http://www.8tn8.com/newsevents.html
http://www.semoairsports.com
Jerry Deckard
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Gear box oil |
Yes!
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Richmond <twoschmoops(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: Firefly Speed Data |
Good numbers, any on a MkIII w/ 582 ??
--- HD Mitchell wrote:
>
> All speeds based on GPS-verified IAS, flying triangle pattern,
> certified
> ROC and UL grade Altimeter.
> Firefly SN007, 155 Lb pilot, enclosed cockpit, 5 gal fuel on board,
> with
> balistic chute, gross ~465 Lbs tested and confirmed on nearly perfect
> sta> ndard days.
> Engine off simulated by 3,000 RPM throttle setting.
>
> Top speed ~ 80 MPH,
> Clean stall: 37, 1/2 flaperons,35, full flaperons 33,
> Best rate of climb (@ 6,200 RPM)......55 MPH 1,000 FPM,
> Best angle of climb: Not tested,
> Best glide (distance) 45 MPH (straight ahead), Glide ratio: 8.8:1,
> Stall during 30 degree turn: not tested but recommended > 40 MPH,
> Stall during 45 degree turn: not tested but recommended > 45 MPH,
> Stall during 60 degree turn: not tested but recommended > 60 MPH
> Lost ~ 300' of Alt during 180 degree turn at 50 MPH simulated glide,
>
> Hope tis helps, Flame away !!
>
> Duane the plane in Tallahassee, FL, FF SN 007, 447, IVO, 98 Hrs
>
>
=====
John & Lynn Richmond :-)
Palm Coast, Fl.
Mk3, 582
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Larry Dysinger" <larrykdysinger(at)hotmail.com> |
AeroElectric-List(at)matronics.com, Aviation-List(at)matronics.com,
Avionics-List(at)matronics.com, EZ-List(at)matronics.com,
Glasair-List(at)matronics.com, Homebuilt-List(at)matronics.com,
Kolb-List(at)matronics.com, Lancair-List(at)matronics.com,
Pitts-List(at)matronics.com, Rocket-List(at)matronics.com,
RVCanada-List(at)matronics.com, RVEurope-List(at)matronics.com,
Sonerai-List(at)matronics.com, Tailwind-List(at)matronics.com,
Zenith-List(at)matronics.com, BostonRVBuilders(at)yahoogroups.com,
oregon-rvlist(at)yahoogroups.com, RV-6and6A(at)yahoogroups.com,
SEFlaRVbuilders(at)yahoogroups.com
Subject: | Re: [rv8list] Version 2.0 Experimental Panel Builder |
Mike,
That is great work. And thanks for sharing it with your fellow listers.
Larry
RV-8QB - Fuselage
From: "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)peoplepc.com>
, ,
, ,
, ,
, ,
, ,
, ,
, ,
, ,
, ,
Subject: [rv8list] Version 2.0 Experimental Panel Builder
Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 00:00:08 -0600
Version 2.0 of the Experimental Panel Builder is up and running. The
response to Version 1.0 was almost overwhelming and we received many
requests for additional panels and instruments. We've tried to accommodate
as many as possible but if we've missed something please let us know by
clicking on the "Request New Panels" or "Request New Instruments" link.
After we published version 1.0 fellow RV List member, RV-8 Builder (soon to
be RV-7 builder) and web master extraordinaire, Jared Boone (Portland, OR)
offered us some suggestions on how we could make things work a little
better. I had some discussions with Jared via email and even tossed back a
brewski or two with him on a recent visit to Portland. Jared took time out
of his busy work schedule (guess what he does for a living) and helped turn
out the version of code that you see here. Truly remarkable and Bill and I
owe him a lot of thanks.
So what's new?
First, you can now save your work. Yes, that's right. After creating a
panel, all you have to do is log out or go to another web page. The next
time you log in you're panel will still be right there were you left off.
Neat.
Space saving organization. Drop down menu's allow you to select the panel
you're interested and the category of instruments your interested in working
on. This saves space and makes creating panels easier.
Duplicate items. Now you can drag as many items onto the panel as you like.
Just keep dragging them up there. You want lots of circuit breaker and
switches. Just keep dragging them up.
If you don't like an instrument then just drag it off the panel and it goes
away. Don't like any of your work and want to start over? Just hit the
reset button.
Because of all the code changes, the time it takes for the initial page to
load has been greatly reduced because it doesn't have to load all the images
at once.
After the last version was published we received a ton or requests for
additional panels and equipment. This is where Bill Vondane came to the
rescue.
Bill jumped into action and developed no less than 20, yes 20, new panels
and added many more instruments. After Jared modified the code to make the
new changes possible, Bill had to add all the new data, and modify things to
get it published. Bill also created the user interface and "Tips" page to
help makes things a little clearer.
Bill and Jared have graciously donated LOTS of time and effort to bring this
tool to it's present state. Remember, these guys both have planes to build
and busy jobs and families to take care of.
Enjoy the updated version and let us know what you think.
Alas, there is a downside. For all those Microsoft haters out there, this
new version is even LESS Netscape friendly than the pervious version. At
this time, due to the methods used to create some of the features, ONLY
Internet Explore 5.5 can be used to access the new features. Jared is
working on making it compatible with earlier versions of Internet Explorer
so until that time, the earlier version 1.0 is still available to use.
We're talking about developing some techniques that will allow ALL browsers
to work but that's still a ways off as time and energy permits.
Check it out. http://sonexlinks.com/panelbuilder/ or link to it from my
page http://bmnellis.com or Bills page http://vondane.com/rv8a
Guess what? It's still free! What a country.
Mike Nellis
Stinson 108-2 N9666K
RV-6 N699BM (reserved)
Plainfield, IL (LOT)
http://bmnellis.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "bob n." <ronoy(at)shentel.net> |
Subject: | Re: tank and BRS location options |
Wecome, John R.--but what's with the *nubiles*?
>Thanks again for always helping and respecting the nubiles.
nubile: a young woman who seems fully developed sexually.
Wait til Steve G. grabs this one!
bn
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle) |
"Missing Digest Messages Solved!!" (Mar 27, 8:04am)
Subject: | Missing Digest Messages Solved!! [Repost] |
[ Here's the message I sent out yesterday regarding the fix for the
missing messages in the Digest posts. I noticed today that I had the list
message filters set a bit to sensitive and three or four of the lines were
missing from my message by the time it made it to the List. With these
lines missing, the message pretty much made me sound like a dork, now
didn't it... ;-) In the future, if you notice that some of your text has
been stripped out of a message you've posted (it will be done on a line
by line basis), please email me the before and after versions so that I
can tweek the filters a bit. Tell a friend. -Matt ]
[Here's what I meant to say yesterday: ]
I've solved the mystery of the missing Digest messages. Seems that I
had Sendmail configured to accept a period (.) on a line by itself as
a "end of message" indicator. For some reason, Larry Bourne's messages
always seemed to have this sequence of characters between his message the
the reply-to text at the end of his message. This would cause Sendmail
to stop sending text at this point.
Anyway, Sendmail is easily configured not to do this and I have
modified and tested it this morning and this has fixed the problem. I
will resend last night's Digest in a minute.
Thanks to a couple of members who got me going done the Larry B.
message track.
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Email List Admin.
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
Great minds discuss ideas,
Average minds discuss events,
Small minds discuss people...
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Ben Ransom <bwr000(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: Do I need a static port? |
Same thing on my Firestar -- you need a static port. Then the question
becomes where. I finally found a perfect solution before drilling too
many holes in the sides of my plane. I stuffed nylon hose (from static
port) into the little gap between the nose pod and fabric on each side
of the front of the plane. You can get a nylon T from any ol hardware
store. (A T to get the port open to each side cancels pressure effects
of side slip.) Rechecking my IAS came out very close to perfect over
the whole speed range.
-Ben Ransom
>--- erich_weaver(at)urscorp.com wrote:
> I recently installed doors, but not the full enclosure with rear
> panels, on
> my Mrk III. Sure am glad to have that wind out of my face!. Now I
> see my
> airspeed indicator is way off (reads high). I would assume that I
> need a
> static port
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "John Cooley" <johnc(at)datasync.com> |
Hi Gang,
Reached a major milestone this past Friday, I finally got through
painting. Now I need to put on about 500 ft of pinstripping and the finish
will be done. I was going to run in the engine today but Mother Nature has
other ideas. I worked on the gap seal a little Sunday afternoon a have a
question for anyone that can help. I purchased the Lexan gap seal kit from
TNK a few months back and there are two springs about 6 inches long. How are
these installed? My plans are pretty new and show how to build the gap seal
but don't say anything about the springs. Hope to be in the air in the next
few weeks.
Thanks,
John Cooley
Building FS II #1162
503 DCDI, BRS, EIS, GSC/Powerfin (soon), & strobes
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Do I need a static port? |
<< -- you need a static port. Then the question
becomes where. I finally found a perfect solution before drilling too many holes
in the sides of my plane. >>
Another possible location that worked for me on my Firestar is up inside the strut.
I routed a small dia. tube along the fuselage side, brought it out the hole
for the brake cable, and shoved it up inside the strut about half way. I colsed
the top and bottom openings in the strut with pieces of foam (removeable).
ASI is now within a mph or 2 of my GPS.
Charlie K.
FS II / 503
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Michael Ransom <mlransom(at)ucdavis.edu> |
Subject: | UltraStar Homepage Anyone? |
(Or, alternate subject header: "Let's get Mike flying again.")
I think I've been re-infected with the flying bug. Yesterday after reading
and writing Kolb email, I had wasted so much time at work that I decided
"what the heck" and just kept going by adding a bit to my flying web pages.
(Don't worry boss, I worked all day the day before even tho I had the day
off!)
Anyway, as you can see from some notes in one of my web pages
(http://128.120.215.11/~Mike/FLYING/ToDoList.htm), there isn't really
*that* much to do to get my UltraStar airworthy again. Perhaps I just need
a little encouragement.
Since my Internet activities were so effective in this regard, I'm going to
continue with them. I'd like to request that people with UltraStar
information and photos send them to me so I can add to my UltraStar web
page (http://128.120.215.11/~Mike/FLYING/UltraStars/). I think it will be
fun and helpful to have sort of an unofficial UltraStar home page. Please
send me any images in a fairly high quality format (hi res JPEGs or TIFs up
to around 4mb if possible. If all you have is smaller JPGs or GIFs, that's
really okay too. Also, if you've bookmarked any links to some good U/S
info or images, you could pass them on to me also and I'll add add them as
links.
Mike Ransom, Programmer mlransom(at)ucdavis.edu
Sustainable Agriculture Research and Education Program (SAREP)
University of California, Davis Davis, California, USA
March 12, 2001 - March 28, 2001
Kolb-Archive.digest.vol-ct