Kolb-Archive.digest.vol-dg
November 08, 2001 - November 25, 2001
>I would like to get a copy of the manufacturing drawings, 85-ish vintage
and
>especially if there is dimensional information available. That way, God
>forbid, should I break something, at least I could make another one just
>like it.
Being a mechanical engineer, and having an example of a part in front of
you, what's stopping you from building a new one? In fact, if the part is
broken you'll already know its weakness so redesign improvements should be
obvious. There is very little/no machining, mostly weldments of 4130.
Mine was MIG'ed in fact. It doesn't get much easier than that. What's
wrong, don't you have a Technician to lean on?
Jim Gerken
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: "Solo" engine help |
| From: | Richard Carlisle <rrcarl(at)concentric.net> |
Solo's are widely used on paramotors. Look for a PPG dealer that sells Solo
powers motors and you find what you are looking for. Seems every time I
look for parts for my DK motor, all I can find are Solo parts. The DK is
one of the only motors that use a Proprietary engine made by Mitsubishi.
Ross
> From: Timandjan(at)aol.com
> Reply-To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2001 19:58:08 EST
> To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Kolb-List: "Solo" engine help
>
>
> My father in law bought a Twinstar from a farmer in Kansas and needs info on
> the 2 Solo 18hp engines on the plane. They are German made, does anybody
> have any info on these, please forward me your number off the list,
> timandjan(at)aol.com
>
> My father in-law has had a cub for 30 years, just built a baby Ace and
> recently flew my Firestar2 for the first time. My brother in law is also a
> aviation maniac, captain for American Airlines, Ai, helicopter pilot and CFI
> etc etc. Well they went to a flyin last week and saw a old Twinstar
> demonstrated, well my father in law knew a guy who had this one for sale back
> in Kansas, so there is the story.
>
> Any help would be appreciated.
>
> Tim
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RONATNIK(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Pilot Report...Sort of |
Points well taken, Larry.
Since I charged into this thing head first I'll just keep going til I get my
spinner bloodied. Ooops, well, I guess that could only happen if I were
flying a Flightstar, Phantom of Hurricane. Ah crud, I just did it
again...mentioned another manufacturer. If I keep this up I'm going to be
tied to your tree and burned at the stake. But if you do that, better untie
Vamoose first. No sense in having he/she/it go up in smoke, too. Hate to
waste a good plane just to dispose of one heretic.
Now for the serious reply since, I've got all of you surrounded. Speaking of
rock solid, how come it has been on this list that I have read about sloppy
hinges, fluttering ailerons and loose wing spar pins, if Kolbs are so rock
solid?
Yes, dacron degrades in the sun and must be hangered and/or clear coated.
RANS highly recommends clear coating. My instructor on the other hand doesn't
clear coat his sails. On his last Quicksilver...did it again...sorry...he got
12 years of service out of his sails and they still passed a punch test when
he decided to replace them.
How easy is it to look inside your wing for an inspection, Larry? Kinda tough
with dope and fabric. With dacron all you have to do is unzip the access
panels. How easy is it to repair dope and fabric if you catch a wingtip on
the door of your hangar, or tree, and tear it? Does your tree have a door?
If Kolbs are such great flyers, than how come three of the four people I
contacted about Kolbs for sale were getting rid of them because they could
not get comfortable flying them? And what about all the gymnastics I've been
reading about just trying to get into one?
Enough said, now it sounds like I am picking back. Guess the point is this,
there are a handful of manufacturers out there that build terrific airplanes.
Kolb is most definitely right up there at the top. But just like buying a car
or house, there is no perfect airplane and there are always tradeoffs.
I'm new at this and I'm doing all the research I can before I make a final
decision on which plane to acquire. In the end, which, hopefully, is sometime
during the winter so I can have something ready by spring, who knows what
I'll wind up with. If it is a Kolb it will be a used bird or partially
completed as I have no desire to take on a 700 hour project.
So, dowse me in a mixture of 100:1 and burn me at the windsock, for I have
committed blasphemy. Ooops, now were back on the religion thing
again...sorry. Hope John Ashcroft isn't monitoring this...I'm really in
trouble now.
Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerryb <ulflyer(at)airmail.net> |
| Subject: | Your old saying... |
Hi Dennis,
How's your vacation been. Getting tried of working for living?
Hey you had an saying about grass, prop blades direction and something to
do with EGT's. I lost it when changing computer. Could you be so kind as
to reply back with it. It went something like Green side up ....
Thanks,
Jerry Bidle
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Elder" <billelder(at)denver.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Pilot Report...Sort of |
Hey Bob. It's Bill up on the mountain. I also visited the RANS factory in
Kansas. Got a ride in an S-12 with 912 engine fully enclosed tinted
windshield. I felt like I was flying a Cessna 150 and for that reason
didn't go with RANS. I wanted a more fun plane. I did go to Kolb and got a
ride in the Mark III with 912 and even though this might be the most docile
of the Kolbs, really enjoyed the experience. Also i believe the S-12 had
wing sleeves vice stits as on the Kolbs. That is a definite plus for Kolbs.
But your right, the RANS folks are very nice, as are the Kolb folks! Good
Luck. Buildin' Bill in Colorado (Mark III/912S)
-----Original Message-----
From: RONATNIK(at)aol.com <RONATNIK(at)aol.com>
Date: Wednesday, November 07, 2001 8:51 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Pilot Report...Sort of
>
>Me thinks I struck a nerve.
>
>If Kentucky were a short drive from Denver I'd been at your factory before
>now. And if anyone around here can offer me up a ride I'll take it. I have
>only been able to observe a couple of Firestar IIs in flight and read what
is
>posted here. Obviously your product has a tremendous and well deserved
>following.
>
>Come on out to Denver and give me a ride. I'll put you up for the night and
>feed you some Rocky Mountain oysters for your trouble.
>
>Bob
>
>PS If I think your plane is better, I'll personally tell Randy Schlitter.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
HI Mark
Did you have to rise the engine to get the 72" prop. to clear the tail boom
or what? Do you have pictures that you could e mail me off list?
Thanks
Wayne
----- Original Message -----
From: <Cavuontop(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: prop.
>
> In a message dated 11/5/01 6:54:28 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> boyter@pioneer-net.com writes:
>
>
> > Has any body put a 72" prop. On a mark 3, With a E gear box? I know
> > you will have to rise the motor 3"
> > I have a bad motor, and I found like new motor with e box and 72" prop.
> > HELP!
> >
>
> Been doing it for almost 100 hours. The set up is very smooth and
produces
> neck snapping acceleration. At gross weight we climb at 6-700 feet per
> minute on a hot day. I have had no problems with the "rails." The system
is
> very simple and stable.
>
> Mark R. Sellers
> Kolb Twinstar Mark III
> N496BM
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Neilsen" <neilsenr(at)state.mi.us> |
| Subject: | Selling Airplane Stuff |
Wow I posted my old VW (long block) engine on E-Bay. I really expected to only
get maybe $1000.00 for my used engine. After 36 hours of a ten day auction someone
bid $1500.00. This is taking some of the pain out of switching to a reduction
drive VW.
Still waiting for a new flywheel for my new engine.
Rick Neilsen
Reduction drive VW powered Kolb MKIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter Volum" <PVolum(at)etsmiami.com> |
| Subject: | KOLB WARNING - READ FIRST!! |
I just received a Kolb type of mailing with the title heading Bradshaw, 503
DCDI, oil that contains a virus.
Dont open it!!
Peter Volum
Mk III
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: KOLB WARNING - READ FIRST!! |
| From: | Richard Carlisle <rrcarl(at)concentric.net> |
OK...What did we say about drinking and using the computer? :)
> From: "Peter Volum" <PVolum(at)etsmiami.com>
> Reply-To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Thu, 8 Nov 2001 12:02:25 -0500
> To: "Kolb \(E-mail\)"
> Subject: Kolb-List: KOLB WARNING - READ FIRST!!
>
>
> I just received a Kolb type of mailing with the title heading Bradshaw, 503
> DCDI, oil that contains a virus.
>
> Dont open it!!
>
> Peter Volum
> Mk III
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Eugene Zimmerman <eugenezimmerman(at)dejazzd.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Pilot Report...Sort of |
RONATNIK(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> Points well taken, Larry.
>
> Since I charged into this thing head first I'll just keep going til I get my
> spinner bloodied. Ooops, well, I guess that could only happen if I were
> flying a Flightstar, Phantom of Hurricane. Ah crud, I just did it
> again...mentioned another manufacturer. If I keep this up I'm going to be
> tied to your tree and burned at the stake. But if you do that, better untie
> Vamoose first. No sense in having he/she/it go up in smoke, too. Hate to
> waste a good plane just to dispose of one heretic.
>
> Now for the serious reply since, I've got all of you surrounded. Speaking of
> rock solid, how come it has been on this list that I have read about sloppy
> hinges, fluttering ailerons and loose wing spar pins, if Kolbs are so rock
> solid?
>
> Yes, dacron degrades in the sun and must be hangered and/or clear coated.
> RANS highly recommends clear coating. My instructor on the other hand doesn't
> clear coat his sails. On his last Quicksilver...did it again...sorry...he got
> 12 years of service out of his sails and they still passed a punch test when
> he decided to replace them.
>
> How easy is it to look inside your wing for an inspection, Larry? Kinda tough
> with dope and fabric. With dacron all you have to do is unzip the access
> panels. How easy is it to repair dope and fabric if you catch a wingtip on
> the door of your hangar, or tree, and tear it? Does your tree have a door?
>
> If Kolbs are such great flyers, than how come three of the four people I
> contacted about Kolbs for sale were getting rid of them because they could
> not get comfortable flying them? And what about all the gymnastics I've been
> reading about just trying to get into one?
>
> Enough said, now it sounds like I am picking back. Guess the point is this,
> there are a handful of manufacturers out there that build terrific airplanes.
> Kolb is most definitely right up there at the top. But just like buying a car
> or house, there is no perfect airplane and there are always tradeoffs.
>
> I'm new at this and I'm doing all the research I can before I make a final
> decision on which plane to acquire. In the end, which, hopefully, is sometime
> during the winter so I can have something ready by spring, who knows what
> I'll wind up with. If it is a Kolb it will be a used bird or partially
> completed as I have no desire to take on a 700 hour project.
>
> So, dowse me in a mixture of 100:1 and burn me at the windsock, for I have
> committed blasphemy. Ooops, now were back on the religion thing
> again...sorry. Hope John Ashcroft isn't monitoring this...I'm really in
> trouble now.
>
> Bob
Hello Bob,
Seem like you are running into some difficulty in your selection process
of which plane you want to buy.
I'd suggest to you NOT buy a Kolb plane.
Kolb planes are only good for people with a highly developed sense of
good judgment. Good judgment comes from experience and experience comes
from poor judgment.
After some more experience a Kolb may eventually be right for you too,
but until then................ perhaps a Rans.
|
_____|_____
*============================R============================*
\ /
\ /
(/---\)
\___/
/ \
() ()
Eugene Zimmerman
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Pilot Report...Sort of |
| From: | Richard Carlisle <rrcarl(at)concentric.net> |
Speaking of
>> rock solid, how come it has been on this list that I have read about sloppy
>> hinges, fluttering ailerons and loose wing spar pins, if Kolbs are so rock
>> solid?
Some of those came from me. The plane Im working with is 15 years old. I'd
expect the same from any other plane that has been trailered and flown for
15 years.
My instructor on the other hand doesn't
>> clear coat his sails. On his last Quicksilver...did it again...sorry...he got
>> 12 years of service out of his sails and they still passed a punch test when
>> he decided to replace them.
I get 2 years out of my uncoated Phantom sails. We put new sails on an MX
this spring and they failed a punch test last week when the owner took the
plane apart for the winter. They were vary badly faded...And that up here
in NH where the UV index is very low. I know a guy in FL who gets 1 season
out of his Drifter sails. Stits is the only way to go, unless you hangar
all the time. If you're fixin' to buy a dacron covered plane...You;ll find
out soon enough.
>> How easy is it to look inside your wing for an inspection, Larry? Kinda tough
>> with dope and fabric. With dacron all you have to do is unzip the access
>> panels. How easy is it to repair dope and fabric if you catch a wingtip on
>> the door of your hangar, or tree, and tear it? Does your tree have a door?
Thats what inspection plates are for. As far as repair...I can repair and
repaint stits damage and be back in the air while you are still waiting for
your sails to come back from the sail loft...Unless of course you're a sail
maker. Ive only seen one guy stich up his dacron on the plane. The patch
came off in flight and he almost lost the fabric on one wing. We were
flying about 50 ft apart. I saw the fabric literally peeling off the wing.
He made a rough landing in a field, but walked away.
>> If Kolbs are such great flyers, than how come three of the four people I
>> contacted about Kolbs for sale were getting rid of them because they could
>> not get comfortable flying them? And what about all the gymnastics I've been
>> reading about just trying to get into one?
I guess it depends on what you are used to. The more I fly mine, the more
comfortable I get. Its alot different than a Phantom...and thats what Im
used to. I like the slow flight characteristics of the Kolb. The Phantom
falls out of the sky at 50MPH. I can land and takeoff in the Kolb in 1/3
the space it takes in the Phantom.
Ross
> From: Eugene Zimmerman <eugenezimmerman(at)dejazzd.com>
> Reply-To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Thu, 08 Nov 2001 13:46:36 -0500
> To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Pilot Report...Sort of
>
>
>
> RONATNIK(at)aol.com wrote:
>>
>>
>> Points well taken, Larry.
>>
>> Since I charged into this thing head first I'll just keep going til I get my
>> spinner bloodied. Ooops, well, I guess that could only happen if I were
>> flying a Flightstar, Phantom of Hurricane. Ah crud, I just did it
>> again...mentioned another manufacturer. If I keep this up I'm going to be
>> tied to your tree and burned at the stake. But if you do that, better untie
>> Vamoose first. No sense in having he/she/it go up in smoke, too. Hate to
>> waste a good plane just to dispose of one heretic.
>>
>> Now for the serious reply since, I've got all of you surrounded. Speaking of
>> rock solid, how come it has been on this list that I have read about sloppy
>> hinges, fluttering ailerons and loose wing spar pins, if Kolbs are so rock
>> solid?
>>
>> Yes, dacron degrades in the sun and must be hangered and/or clear coated.
>> RANS highly recommends clear coating. My instructor on the other hand doesn't
>> clear coat his sails. On his last Quicksilver...did it again...sorry...he got
>> 12 years of service out of his sails and they still passed a punch test when
>> he decided to replace them.
>>
>> How easy is it to look inside your wing for an inspection, Larry? Kinda tough
>> with dope and fabric. With dacron all you have to do is unzip the access
>> panels. How easy is it to repair dope and fabric if you catch a wingtip on
>> the door of your hangar, or tree, and tear it? Does your tree have a door?
>>
>> If Kolbs are such great flyers, than how come three of the four people I
>> contacted about Kolbs for sale were getting rid of them because they could
>> not get comfortable flying them? And what about all the gymnastics I've been
>> reading about just trying to get into one?
>>
>> Enough said, now it sounds like I am picking back. Guess the point is this,
>> there are a handful of manufacturers out there that build terrific airplanes.
>> Kolb is most definitely right up there at the top. But just like buying a car
>> or house, there is no perfect airplane and there are always tradeoffs.
>>
>> I'm new at this and I'm doing all the research I can before I make a final
>> decision on which plane to acquire. In the end, which, hopefully, is sometime
>> during the winter so I can have something ready by spring, who knows what
>> I'll wind up with. If it is a Kolb it will be a used bird or partially
>> completed as I have no desire to take on a 700 hour project.
>>
>> So, dowse me in a mixture of 100:1 and burn me at the windsock, for I have
>> committed blasphemy. Ooops, now were back on the religion thing
>> again...sorry. Hope John Ashcroft isn't monitoring this...I'm really in
>> trouble now.
>>
>> Bob
>
>
> Hello Bob,
>
> Seem like you are running into some difficulty in your selection process
> of which plane you want to buy.
> I'd suggest to you NOT buy a Kolb plane.
> Kolb planes are only good for people with a highly developed sense of
> good judgment. Good judgment comes from experience and experience comes
> from poor judgment.
> After some more experience a Kolb may eventually be right for you too,
> but until then................ perhaps a Rans.
> |
> _____|_____
> *============================R============================*
> \ /
\ /
> (/---\)
> \___/
> / \
> () ()
> Eugene Zimmerman
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeremy Casey" <jrcasey(at)ldl.net> |
| Subject: | Pilot Report...Sort of |
WOW! Someone worked themselves up into a tizzy didn't they?!?! Ever tried
decaf? Did you expect to get a "Man I wish I had a RANS too" on the
"Kolb-list"? I'll throw my $.02 worth into your punchlist of "problems"
....
I'll answer in CAPS so you can spot my responses...
Points well taken, Larry.
Since I charged into this thing head first I'll just keep going til I get my
spinner bloodied. Ooops, well, I guess that could only happen if I were
flying a Flightstar, Phantom of Hurricane. Ah crud, I just did it
again...mentioned another manufacturer. If I keep this up I'm going to be
tied to your tree and burned at the stake. But if you do that, better untie
Vamoose first. No sense in having he/she/it go up in smoke, too. Hate to
waste a good plane just to dispose of one heretic. GREAT SENSE OF HUMOR...
Now for the serious reply since, I've got all of you surrounded. Speaking of
rock solid, how come it has been on this list that I have read about sloppy
hinges, fluttering ailerons and loose wing spar pins, if Kolbs are so rock
solid? SLOPPY HINGES...THE PLANE THAT WAS BROUGHT UP RECENTLY WITH SLOPPY
HINGES WAS A MARK 2. THEY HAVEN'T BEEN BUILT IN ABOUT 12-13 YEARS AND GOOD
GRIEF MAN...EVERYTHING WILL WEAR SOME!!! LOOSE SPAR PINS?? I SUSPECT IT IS
JUST WEAR AGAIN...ANYTHING THAT MOVES WEARS...USING AN BOLTS INSTEAD OF PINS
WILL HELP ALOT, BUT THEN IT'S HARDER TO FOLD...
Yes, dacron degrades in the sun and must be hangered and/or clear coated.
RANS highly recommends clear coating. My instructor on the other hand
doesn't
clear coat his sails. On his last Quicksilver...did it again...sorry...he
got
12 years of service out of his sails and they still passed a punch test when
he decided to replace them. GREAT!!! BUT SOME PEOPLE THINK DACRON LOOKS
LIKE CRAP! (ME?...YEP) AND GO LOOK AT A CHALLENGER FOR A GOOD
COMPARISON...SAME WING WITH STITS COVERING IS A GOOD 5 MPH FASTER...DON'T
SOUND LIKE MUCH...BUT ON A PLANE THAT ONLY CRUISES 70...THAT'S 14%. A GOOD
STITS JOB WILL LAST 25 YEARS, EASY.
How easy is it to look inside your wing for an inspection, Larry? Kinda
tough
with dope and fabric. With dacron all you have to do is unzip the access
panels. How easy is it to repair dope and fabric if you catch a wingtip on
the door of your hangar, or tree, and tear it? Does your tree have a door?
INSPECTION IS AS EASY AS HOW MANY AND WHERE YOU PUT THE INSPECTION RINGS
WHEN YOU COVER IT... EVER TRIED TO REPLACE ONE OF THOSE PLASTIC ZIPPERS WHEN
IT STRIPS A TOOTH???
If Kolbs are such great flyers, than how come three of the four people I
contacted about Kolbs for sale were getting rid of them because they could
not get comfortable flying them? THE KOLB ISN'T FOR EVERYBODY...PITTS ARE
KNOWN AS HAVING THE WORST MANNERS ON THE GROUND AS PROBABLY ANYTHING, BUT
THEY ARE ONE OF THE TOP 2 OR 3 PLANES FOR AEROBATICS...BUUUUTTT IF YOU DON'T
LIKE AEROBATICS THEN YOU WON'T LIKE IT. THE KOLB GIVES UP SOME GENTLENESS
TO GET A LITTLE MORE PERFORMANCE...BUT OVERALL IT IS ONE OF THE TOP 2-3
DESIGNS FOR CONTROL "FEEL". I HAVE A CHALLENGER 2 THAT I ABSOLUTELY HATE
THE WAY IT HANDLES. THE CONTROLS ARE NOT BALANCED BETWEEN ALL AXIS AND
THAT'S AGGRAVATING. (As soon as I get my butt in gear and get the Kolb
finished...it's gone) I REMEMBER DAN JOHNSON (ULTRALIGHT FLYING MAG) WHO HAS
PROBABLY FLOWN MORE DIFFERENT DESIGNS THAN ANYONE SAID THE KOLB HAD THE BEST
FEEL OF ANY ULTRALIGHT SERIES HE HAD FLOWN...AND HE'S FLOWN A BUNCH. And
what about all the gymnastics I've been
reading about just trying to get into one? THAT IS A FIREFLY , AND IT'S
BECAUSE IT HAS LONG GEAR LEGS AND HIGH SIDE RAILS...OH WELL...
Enough said, now it sounds like I am picking back. Guess the point is this,
there are a handful of manufacturers out there that build terrific
airplanes.
Kolb is most definitely right up there at the top. But just like buying a
car
or house, there is no perfect airplane and there are always tradeoffs.
I'm new at this and I'm doing all the research I can before I make a final
decision on which plane to acquire. In the end, which, hopefully, is
sometime
during the winter so I can have something ready by spring, who knows what
I'll wind up with. If it is a Kolb it will be a used bird or partially
completed as I have no desire to take on a 700 hour project.
So, dowse me in a mixture of 100:1 and burn me at the windsock, for I have
committed blasphemy. Ooops, now were back on the religion thing
again...sorry. Hope John Ashcroft isn't monitoring this...I'm really in
trouble now.
Bob
I HAVE TO SAY THAT RANS MAKES A FEW SWEET AIRPLANES...(S6S FOR
EXAMPLE...I'VE NEVER FLOWN AN S18 SO NO COMMENT...THE S12 IS A PIG. S7 IS
SWEET IN THE AIR, BUT A BEAR TO LAND SMOOTH...YOU WILL "PLOP" IT DOWN 90% OF
THE TIME (AND THAT IS FROM A FELLOW THAT HAS 1700 HOURS IN ONE. S7 ALSO IS
A SQUIRRELLY BIRD GOING INTO AND OUT OF TURNS...STEEPER THEY GET THE HARDER
IT IS TO KEEP IT STRAIGHT...BUT THAT GETS BETTER WITH TECHNIQUE. THEY ALSO
HAVE STRETCHED THE TAIL ABOUT 18" TO "FIX" THAT LITTLE PROBLEM...DON'T KNOW
HOW THE LONGER ONES' FLY)
ANYWAY...IF THAT WAS YOUR FIRST RUN THROUGH THE FIELDS LOW IN A PLANE, THEN
I'M NOT SURPRISED YOU ARE ALL SMILES. IF YOU WEREN'T THEN THERE'S NO HOPE
FOR YOU ;-) ANYWAY, DO A LOW RUN THROUGH THE BRUSH IN A KOLB IF YOU EVER
GET A CHANCE, AND SEE IF YOUR NOT JUST AS IMPRESSED....
ALL FLYING IS GOOD (EVEN THAT BARN DOOR-LIKE QUICKSILVER ;8-0
IF RANS IS THAT CLOSE TO YOU AND YOU LIKE THEIR PRODUCT, THEN GO FOR
IT....JUST DON'T EXPECT THE "KOLB-LIST" TO SAY "YEA, YOU MADE THE RIGHT
MOVE" CAUSE IF WE BELIEVED THAT, WE'D BE FLYING THEM...
AND NOW ONE LAST SMILEY FACE ;-)
Jeremy Casey
jrcasey(at)ldl.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Swiderski" <swiderskir(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: Engineering Dimensia |
Hey Jim,
The Kolb-List is a friendly place where we encourage each other, share
our experiences, offer advice & ask questions. None of this will
successfully happen in an environment where people are shot down & made to
feel stupid. If what you wrote was meant to be a joke, then I apolagize, I
guess I missed the funny part.
...Richard Swiderski
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Gerken" <gerken(at)us.ibm.com>
>
> Michael, sorry but I could not resist responding after I read:
I guess being a mechanical engineer for 28 years, I like having a roll of
drawings to refer to. I would like to get a copy of the manufacturing
drawings, 85-ish vintage and especially if there is dimensional information
available. That way, God forbid, should I break something, at least I could
make another one just
like it.
>
> Being a mechanical engineer, and having an example of a part in front of
> you, what's stopping you from building a new one? In fact, if the part is
> broken you'll already know its weakness so redesign improvements should be
> obvious. There is very little/no machining, mostly weldments of 4130.
> Mine was MIG'ed in fact. It doesn't get much easier than that. What's
> wrong, don't you have a Technician to lean on?
>
> Jim Gerken
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RONATNIK(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Pilot Report...Sort of |
Well put Eugene, thank you. I have been arriving at that conclusion actually. I
am very much intrigued with the Kolbs, but wonder if they are more appropriately
suited for the intermediate to advanced pilot.
Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RONATNIK(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Pilot Report...Sort of |
Thanks, Jeremy. I love airplanes and at age 44 am thrilled with the fact that I
am fulfilling a life long dream. I think my second love is provoking good, meaningful
discussion. And now I am getting some.
I am less than a novice. But I am bound an determined to one, be a safe, good pilot;
and two, make a good, reasoned and informed decision regarding purchasing
a plane.
Remember from my original post I placed a disclaimer stating that it was from someone
with little experience and for all to take it for what it is worth.
No, I didn't expect to get warm fuzzies from the flock. Just was wanting to share
some information and stimulate constructive discussion.
Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RONATNIK(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Pilot Report...Sort of |
PS For fun tonight, I'm going to post my original message on the Yahoo Hawk message
board. Those guys are as fanatical as you Kolbers, but with kinda of a gooey,
touchy feely twist.
Hope it's as much fun as this was.
Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "George E. Thompson" <eagle1(at)commspeed.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Pilot Report...Sort of |
----- Original Message -----
From: <RONATNIK(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Pilot Report...Sort of
>
> Me thinks I struck a nerve.
>
> If Kentucky were a short drive from Denver I'd been at your factory before
> now. And if anyone around here can offer me up a ride I'll take it. I have
> only been able to observe a couple of Firestar IIs in flight and read what
is
> posted here. Obviously your product has a tremendous and well deserved
> following.
>
> Come on out to Denver and give me a ride. I'll put you up for the night
and
> feed you some Rocky Mountain oysters for your trouble.
>
> Bob
>
> PS If I think your plane is better, I'll personally tell Randy Schlitter.
> Come on down to Prescott Az and I will give you a ride in a Firestar II.
George
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Greetings:
I am fairly new to this list,but have an "old" question. I was at Oshkosh
this past summer and stopped at two different Rotax areas and got two
different answers to my question.
My Mark lll kit was purchased in 1991 and included a 503 ( still is pickled )
and I am ready to start the covering process. Question is: Do I need a
complete overhaul on my 503? ( the plastic plugs are still in etc.) some
dealers said yes some said no.
Any Advice?
Thanks
Sorry it has taken soooooo long to get this thing closer to airborne.....
TJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cavuontop(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 11/8/01 10:31:01 AM Eastern Standard Time,
boyter@pioneer-net.com writes:
> Did you have to rise the engine to get the 72" prop.
To get the engine up far enough to use a 72" prop Kolb came up with a
simple design that uses the stock engine mounting plate. You simply invert
the Lord mounts, which probably get you an inch right there, and then use 2
pieces of 3" x 1" x 15" aluminum square tubing, hence the term "rails",
between the lord mounts and the engine mounting plate. It is very simple and
trouble free.
The 72" prop with a 3.47:1 drive puts out an awful lot of thrust, but
has another interesting feature that is not often written about. If you pull
the prop to idle while on final it slows down to about 3300 and because it is
moving so slow from the low ratio it acts like a drag chute. After 80 hours
I tried my first landing yesterday with the second notch of flaps. Between
the prop and the flaps I got a sink rate that was really scary.
Does anyone else have a hard time getting the second notch of flaps in
their mark 3? The handle works fine on the ground, but with an air load on
it I had a helluva time getting the second notch. Part of it was ergonomic.
I sit on the left side and operate the flaps with my left hand. It felt like
if the handle was 6" longer I could get it. Interestingly, I have no trouble
at all getting the first notch.
Mark R. Sellers
Kolb Twinstar Mark III
N496BM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Possum <possums(at)mindspring.com> |
The 72" prop with a 3.47:1 drive puts out an awful lot of thrust, but
>has another interesting feature that is not often written about. If you
pull
>the prop to idle while on final it slows down to about 3300 and because it
is
>moving so slow from the low ratio it acts like a drag chute. After 80 hours
>I tried my first landing yesterday with the second notch of flaps. Between
>the prop and the flaps I got a sink rate that was really scary.
I have a 503 with a 3.47-E gear box and I am sure that the plane glides better
with the engine off (deadstick) than it does with the engine at idle. Must
be the "drag chute"
effect that you are taking about.
________________________________________________________________________________
Mark
Thank for the info. But what is the thrust angle like when it is 4" higher?
Thanks
Wayne
Kolb mark 3
Rotax 582
Roseburg, Or
----- Original Message -----
From: <Cavuontop(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: prop.
>
> In a message dated 11/8/01 10:31:01 AM Eastern Standard Time,
> boyter@pioneer-net.com writes:
>
>
> > Did you have to rise the engine to get the 72" prop.
>
> To get the engine up far enough to use a 72" prop Kolb came up with
a
> simple design that uses the stock engine mounting plate. You simply
invert
> the Lord mounts, which probably get you an inch right there, and then use
2
> pieces of 3" x 1" x 15" aluminum square tubing, hence the term "rails",
> between the lord mounts and the engine mounting plate. It is very simple
and
> trouble free.
>
> The 72" prop with a 3.47:1 drive puts out an awful lot of thrust,
but
> has another interesting feature that is not often written about. If you
pull
> the prop to idle while on final it slows down to about 3300 and because it
is
> moving so slow from the low ratio it acts like a drag chute. After 80
hours
> I tried my first landing yesterday with the second notch of flaps.
Between
> the prop and the flaps I got a sink rate that was really scary.
>
> Does anyone else have a hard time getting the second notch of flaps
in
> their mark 3? The handle works fine on the ground, but with an air load
on
> it I had a helluva time getting the second notch. Part of it was
ergonomic.
> I sit on the left side and operate the flaps with my left hand. It felt
like
> if the handle was 6" longer I could get it. Interestingly, I have no
trouble
> at all getting the first notch.
>
> Mark R. Sellers
> Kolb Twinstar Mark III
> N496BM
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cavuontop(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 11/8/01 8:52:21 PM Eastern Standard Time,
boyter@pioneer-net.com writes:
> Thank for the info. But what is the thrust angle like when it is 4" higher
Not significantly different from the Mark 2 I had which had a 503
mounted normally. If you slam open the throttle when stopped with two good
sized people up front either plane will go right over on the nose skid. Even
if you have full back stick. Its just embarrassing, no damage ever done.
There was some talk years ago that mounting the engine a little higher
got more of the prop running in smoother air resulting in slightly better
performance and a little less noise. The same thing was said of prop
extensions to move the prop back a little into better air. I don't know that
anyone ever measured it. These were mostly subjective impressions of Dennis
Souder and the boys at old Kolb.
Mark R. Sellers
Kolb Twinstar Mark III
N496BM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org> |
It helps a lot to pull the nose up and let the airsped decay to less than 50.
The slower the airspeed, the easier.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
> Does anyone else have a hard time getting the second notch of flaps in
>their mark 3? The handle works fine on the ground, but with an air load on
>it I had a helluva time getting the second notch. Part of it was ergonomic.
>I sit on the left side and operate the flaps with my left hand. It felt like
>if the handle was 6" longer I could get it. Interestingly, I have no trouble
>at all getting the first notch.
>
>Mark R. Sellers
>Kolb Twinstar Mark III
>N496BM
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org> |
| Subject: | Re: 10 year old 503 |
You need to sell the 503 and get a 582. You will not be happy with
that lesser horsepower, unless you and all your passengers are
very, very light people, and you build the airplane as light as possible.
And even then, it will not perform like it could.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>Greetings:
>I am fairly new to this list,but have an "old" question. I was at Oshkosh
>this past summer and stopped at two different Rotax areas and got two
>different answers to my question.
>My Mark lll kit was purchased in 1991 and included a 503 ( still is pickled )
>and I am ready to start the covering process. Question is: Do I need a
>complete overhaul on my 503? ( the plastic plugs are still in etc.) some
>dealers said yes some said no.
>Any Advice?
>Thanks
>Sorry it has taken soooooo long to get this thing closer to airborne.....
>TJ
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
Part of it was ergonomic.
> I sit on the left side and operate the flaps with my left hand.
> Mark R. Sellers
Mark and Gang:
Try pulling the flap handle with your right hand. Hold the
stick momentarily with you left hand.
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jon Croke" <Jon(at)joncroke.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 10 year old 503 |
> > My Mark lll kit was purchased in 1991 and included a 503 ( still is
pickled )
> and I am ready to start the covering process. Question is: Do I need a
> complete overhaul on my 503? ( the plastic plugs are still in etc.) some
TJ,
I have heard that the crankshaft seals naturally breakdown over time
(outgass) and those seals are important in maintaining the crankcase's
proper air/fuel mixture for combustion. I think 5 years is the recommended
life of them. So ten years might be pushing it...
But I am no expert on this and Im sure others will contribute their .02
with more qualified opinions.
The 503 is great engine... ( I have one) Might be a little on the lite side
for a MkIII, tho ...
Good luck
Jon
near Green Bay
FSII
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | cajwoods(at)mindspring.com |
| Subject: | Re: Slingshot wanted |
Mike,
My Slingshot could be bought. I now own a Super Cub and am preparing to
build a RV-8. I'm not looking to give it away though. Has won several awards
and is well equipped and performs awesome with a 912S. If interested contact
me off-list for details.
Bill Woods
----- Original Message -----
From: <Kolbguy(at)aol.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: Slingshot wanted
>
> Anyone know of a good Slingshot for sale?
>
> Mike Taylor
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dallas Shepherd" <cen23954(at)centurytel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 10 year old 503 |
Jon: Don't take two people in that Mark 3 with a 503 on a hot day with tall
trees in the way. My 582 struggled with two on hot days. One reason for
the change.
Dallas Shepherd
Norfork, Arkansas
Mark 3/jabiru 2200
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jon Croke" <Jon(at)joncroke.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: 10 year old 503
>
> > > My Mark lll kit was purchased in 1991 and included a 503 ( still is
> pickled )
> > and I am ready to start the covering process. Question is: Do I need
a
> > complete overhaul on my 503? ( the plastic plugs are still in etc.)
some
>
> TJ,
>
> I have heard that the crankshaft seals naturally breakdown over time
> (outgass) and those seals are important in maintaining the crankcase's
> proper air/fuel mixture for combustion. I think 5 years is the
recommended
> life of them. So ten years might be pushing it...
>
> But I am no expert on this and Im sure others will contribute their .02
> with more qualified opinions.
> The 503 is great engine... ( I have one) Might be a little on the lite
side
> for a MkIII, tho ...
>
> Good luck
> Jon
> near Green Bay
> FSII
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | What Listers Are Saying - Fund Raiser Continues... |
Dear Listers,
The 2001 List Fund Raiser is going well and I want to thank everyone that
has already so generously made a Contribution to support the Lists! Below
are some of the great comments and feedback members have been including
along with their Contributions.
Won't you make a Contribution today to support the continued operation and
upgrade of your Lists? Its fast and easy using the SSL Secure Web Site or
by simply sending a personal check. Complete information can be found at
Contribution web site:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
A give a special Thank You to all of those that have already contributed so
far this year!!
Matt Dralle
Email List Administrator
================== What Listers Are Saying ====================
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- Edward S.
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Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cavuontop(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 11/8/01 10:47:08 PM Eastern Standard Time,
hawk36(at)mindspring.com writes:
> Try pulling the flap handle with your right hand. Hold the
> stick momentarily with you left hand.
>
John:
I tried that-- and somewhere between notch 1 and 2 my right elbow
comes into contact with my seat cushion and I can't comfortably move it back
any further to get to the second notch. If I use my left hand I'm in front
of the handle and can push it back/down, but even then I can just barely get
it into position. If the handle was 6" longer I think I could get it with my
right hand.
Mark R. Sellers
Kolb Twinstar Mark III
N496BM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Anderson" <janderson3(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Pilot Report...Sort of |
----- Original Message -----
From: <RONATNIK(at)aol.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: Pilot Report...Sort of
> snip<
> Down low, I got a heck of a
> hay bale hopping ride demonstrating its manuverability. Wow, Randy can
bend
> that thing around a corner and pop up over a row of trees just to swoop
back
> down low over the next field.
>
> Dumping the flaps and pulling back the power made for a ride as steady and
> stable as an aircraft carrier. Stalls were a non-event foreshadowed by a
> noticeable buffet followed by the nose returning to straight and level.
The
> plane will spin, as Randy demonstrated, but only when forced to by full
back
> elevator and full rudder deflection. Recovery was instantaneous as soon as
he
> eased off the control pressure.
>
> All in all, I was very impressed by the plane, people and operation. I
know I
> have very limited experience and all of you must take that into
consideration
> when evaluating my observations. But I will tell you, I'm hoping like heck
f
> or Sport Pilot to go through, because the S-18 just made my short list.
>
> Be safe, all.
>
> Bob
> Littleton, CO
>
Bob, Sounds like you had a BALL!!! I flew the S18 at Sun&fun, obviously did
not get as fun a ride as you did.
I was attracted to the S18 because I fly an Ultrastar and it LOOKS like a
two seat US. However that's where the similarities end. The S18 handles
like a much larger plane, it is VERY rudder centric, you just can not turn
without a lot of rudder input. It handles very much like a Challenger two
place, use just the ailerons and you have a lot of adverse yaw and get into
a slip. Not bad, just different from my US. In my Ultrastar I can fly with
ailerons OR rudder alone, some adverse yaw with ailerons alone but the nose
comes around very quickly. Using rudder alone, some slip to start but the
inside wing will drop and then the turn is controllable with rudder alone,
you are not going to get this kind of handling with the S18.
John Anderson
*******************
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Berry" <sc_bassman(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 1050 VLS/BRS chute for sell |
Regarding the chute, where are you located?
----- Original Message -----
From: twistedclicks
Subject: Kolb-List: 1050 VLS/BRS chute for sell
I have a 1050 VLS for sell. It has three years left on the pack. I live in
CT so if your close by we can arrange to meet rather than shipping it.
Shipping can be arranged however if needed. Sales price is $1500 or best
r.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RONATNIK(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Pilot Report...Sort of |
Well, probably due to my lack of experience and some gusty winds, I didn't
really put the plane through what one would consider its paces. I took the
controls at about 3,000 AGL and made some 360s left and right. It was very
stable and I was using strictly full coordinated turns.
Thanks for the feedback!
Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jack & Louise Hart <jbhart(at)ldd.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 447, carb ice, & procedure question |
Mark,
I ran an experiment to see if I could reproduce on the ground what happened
to me while flying. First I tied the plane down and ran 4500 rpm it in a
misting rain and after fifteen minutes I gave up. After I thought about it
a bit, I realized that the throttle setting for 4500 rpm in the air would
have been less than 4500 rpm static.
Since I did not want to wait on another misting rain, I connected a sump
pump (light plastic) tube to the carburetor entrance with duct tape. I ran
it down along the cage members to the right front wheel. Duct taped the
tube to the cage member and the gear leg so if it got loose it would not
get into the prop. The lower end of the tube was attached to the output of
a cool mist humidifier, the kind that a little taper tube spins in a tank
of water and pumps up the taper until the water whips out on a disk which
breaks the water into very fine particles. The outlet of the mister
sprayed into a duct tape plenum that was attached to the bottom end of sump
pump tube. Next I tied the tail spring to my pickup, started up the 447
and let it run at 3000 rpm until the CHT came up to over 200 degrees. Then
I plugged in the motor of the cool mister and increased the 447 to 3500 rpm
and started the timer. I let it run this way for five minutes. Then I
started to slowly open the throttle to increase engine speed. Everything
went well until engine speed got to 3800 rpm and then the engine speed
started to fall off and to get rough. If I jigged the throttle a little
closed the engine would pick up, but if I jigged the throttle more open,
rpm fell off even more. I tried this several times and always got the same
results. Then I shut the engine off, ran around to the back side of the
wing, and removed the tube from the carburetor, thinking that I would see
some ice. I saw nothing. I lifted the slide with my finger and felt in
the bottom of the throat behind the needle and I could not feel or see any
ice. The throat was cool but did not feel like it was any where near
freezing temperature.
The only thing I can conclude is that the air saturated with water vapor
does drop out water as it passes through the narrow opening between the
throttle plate and the bottom of the throat. I believe these water droplets
some how collect together and interfere with the vents found on the throat
surface behind the mid range needle and/or middle range needle-jet. The
only way this can happen is for a standing shock pulse wave to develop in
the carburetor throat, and that may be what is happening at 3800 rpm. I
took the bowl off the carburetor and it had no water in it after the test
or after the real flight.
No I didn't prove icing, but if the air temp had been close to freezing, I
believe it is very probable. What I did prove is that if you are flying in
very moist air you can experience the above effect if you fly at greatly
reduced power with a 447 and that carb heat would be beneficial. And if
you want to reproduce effect, have a go at it. I took some pictures and I
will put them up on my web site after they are developed.
Jack B. Hart FF004
Jackson, MO
>
>In a message dated 10/30/01 5:45:49 PM Eastern Standard Time, jbhart(at)ldd.net
>writes:
>
>
>> The reason I am asking this is
>> that it seemed every time I tried to open the throttle a small amount
>> engine rpm would drop and then when I closed the throttle a little bit the
>> engine would pick up a little bit. This is one of the longest 20 minute
>> flights I have ever made.
>>
>
>Jack:
>
> This is one of the most interesting posts I've seen in a while. I've
>had a number of conversations with guys who insist that carb ice is a non
>issue in rotax engines. The carbs are thought to be too close to the case
>for any meaninful ice to bulud up, and because the injection oil/premix oil
>is sprayed around that there is not way for ice to build up on the slide.
If
>you come to a conclusion I'd love to know about it.
>
>Mark R. Sellers
>Kolb Twinstar Mark III
>N496BM
>
Mark,
I agree that carb ice will not be a problem at normal cruise speeds. I
have flown in these conditions many times and through light rain, and I
have never had a problem like today. I believe as long as you keep the
engine working hard say 5000 rpm and over, you are unlikely to have a
problem. On the 447 with the prop set for cruise and to top out at 6000
rpm, the engine will reach this rpm at a little less than 40% throttle.
When I was flying at 4500 the throttle was open just over 20%. If one runs
the numbers to see what is going on at the throttle cylinder orifice, the
air velocity passing through under the throttle cylinder is about twice as
fast at 20% and 4500 rpm as it is at 40% and 6000 rpm. Therefore the
pressure drop a cross the throttle cylinder at 4500 is twice that of 6000
rpm and along with the corresponding temperature drop causes the water to
flash out of the air as fog and to freeze on to the super cooled surfaces.
What I am trying to figure out is where does the ice interfere. Does it
build up and clog the mid range needle and jet, or does it extend on back
and plug the idle orifices as well? Is it better to slam the throttle
closed to dislodge ice and reopen the throttle to get full power, or to do
as I did and jigger it until the engine rpm increases? Or was I just lucky?
The important thing is to try to maintain some reasonable altitude so that
when unexpected things like this happen one does not have to react
immediately to land. One has some time to figure out what to do as you
head back toward the airport, to shorten the walk, or what ever.
Jack B. Hart FF004
Jackson, MO
Jack & Louise Hart
jbhart(at)ldd.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Currie <bnb(at)erols.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 447, carb ice, & procedure question |
Much thanks for your info on carb icing. The type of data that comes of the
list keeps us all much better prepared. Thanks again for the effort and the
info. Bob Currie FSII 60 %
Jack & Louise Hart wrote:
>
> Mark,
>
> I ran an experiment to see if I could reproduce on the ground what happened
> to me while flying. First I tied the plane down and ran 4500 rpm it in a
> misting rain and after fifteen minutes I gave up. After I thought about it
> a bit, I realized that the throttle setting for 4500 rpm in the air would
> have been less than 4500 rpm static.
>
> Since I did not want to wait on another misting rain, I connected a sump
> pump (light plastic) tube to the carburetor entrance with duct tape. I ran
> it down along the cage members to the right front wheel. Duct taped the
> tube to the cage member and the gear leg so if it got loose it would not
> get into the prop. The lower end of the tube was attached to the output of
> a cool mist humidifier, the kind that a little taper tube spins in a tank
> of water and pumps up the taper until the water whips out on a disk which
> breaks the water into very fine particles. The outlet of the mister
> sprayed into a duct tape plenum that was attached to the bottom end of sump
> pump tube. Next I tied the tail spring to my pickup, started up the 447
> and let it run at 3000 rpm until the CHT came up to over 200 degrees. Then
> I plugged in the motor of the cool mister and increased the 447 to 3500 rpm
> and started the timer. I let it run this way for five minutes. Then I
> started to slowly open the throttle to increase engine speed. Everything
> went well until engine speed got to 3800 rpm and then the engine speed
> started to fall off and to get rough. If I jigged the throttle a little
> closed the engine would pick up, but if I jigged the throttle more open,
> rpm fell off even more. I tried this several times and always got the same
> results. Then I shut the engine off, ran around to the back side of the
> wing, and removed the tube from the carburetor, thinking that I would see
> some ice. I saw nothing. I lifted the slide with my finger and felt in
> the bottom of the throat behind the needle and I could not feel or see any
> ice. The throat was cool but did not feel like it was any where near
> freezing temperature.
>
> The only thing I can conclude is that the air saturated with water vapor
> does drop out water as it passes through the narrow opening between the
> throttle plate and the bottom of the throat. I believe these water droplets
> some how collect together and interfere with the vents found on the throat
> surface behind the mid range needle and/or middle range needle-jet. The
> only way this can happen is for a standing shock pulse wave to develop in
> the carburetor throat, and that may be what is happening at 3800 rpm. I
> took the bowl off the carburetor and it had no water in it after the test
> or after the real flight.
>
> No I didn't prove icing, but if the air temp had been close to freezing, I
> believe it is very probable. What I did prove is that if you are flying in
> very moist air you can experience the above effect if you fly at greatly
> reduced power with a 447 and that carb heat would be beneficial. And if
> you want to reproduce effect, have a go at it. I took some pictures and I
> will put them up on my web site after they are developed.
>
> Jack B. Hart FF004
> Jackson, MO
>
> >
> >In a message dated 10/30/01 5:45:49 PM Eastern Standard Time, jbhart(at)ldd.net
> >writes:
> >
> >
> >> The reason I am asking this is
> >> that it seemed every time I tried to open the throttle a small amount
> >> engine rpm would drop and then when I closed the throttle a little bit the
> >> engine would pick up a little bit. This is one of the longest 20 minute
> >> flights I have ever made.
> >>
> >
> >Jack:
> >
> > This is one of the most interesting posts I've seen in a while. I've
> >had a number of conversations with guys who insist that carb ice is a non
> >issue in rotax engines. The carbs are thought to be too close to the case
> >for any meaninful ice to bulud up, and because the injection oil/premix oil
> >is sprayed around that there is not way for ice to build up on the slide.
> If
> >you come to a conclusion I'd love to know about it.
> >
> >Mark R. Sellers
> >Kolb Twinstar Mark III
> >N496BM
> >
> Mark,
>
> I agree that carb ice will not be a problem at normal cruise speeds. I
> have flown in these conditions many times and through light rain, and I
> have never had a problem like today. I believe as long as you keep the
> engine working hard say 5000 rpm and over, you are unlikely to have a
> problem. On the 447 with the prop set for cruise and to top out at 6000
> rpm, the engine will reach this rpm at a little less than 40% throttle.
> When I was flying at 4500 the throttle was open just over 20%. If one runs
> the numbers to see what is going on at the throttle cylinder orifice, the
> air velocity passing through under the throttle cylinder is about twice as
> fast at 20% and 4500 rpm as it is at 40% and 6000 rpm. Therefore the
> pressure drop a cross the throttle cylinder at 4500 is twice that of 6000
> rpm and along with the corresponding temperature drop causes the water to
> flash out of the air as fog and to freeze on to the super cooled surfaces.
>
> What I am trying to figure out is where does the ice interfere. Does it
> build up and clog the mid range needle and jet, or does it extend on back
> and plug the idle orifices as well? Is it better to slam the throttle
> closed to dislodge ice and reopen the throttle to get full power, or to do
> as I did and jigger it until the engine rpm increases? Or was I just lucky?
>
> The important thing is to try to maintain some reasonable altitude so that
> when unexpected things like this happen one does not have to react
> immediately to land. One has some time to figure out what to do as you
> head back toward the airport, to shorten the walk, or what ever.
>
> Jack B. Hart FF004
> Jackson, MO
>
> Jack & Louise Hart
> jbhart(at)ldd.net
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 10 year old 503 |
| From: | Richard Carlisle <rrcarl(at)nhvt.net> |
> From: "Jon Croke" <Jon(at)joncroke.com>
> Reply-To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Thu, 8 Nov 2001 21:56:13 -0600
> To:
> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: 10 year old 503
>
> I think 5 years is the recommended
> life of them. So ten years might be pushing it...
I have a 447 thats 11 years old and still runs great. Never been rebuilt,
but it has never sat for more than a month or two without running. I think
letting them sit without running is worse than running. I think the oil
keeps the seals pliable.
Ross
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | BRS 750 for sale... |
| From: | Richard Carlisle <rrcarl(at)nhvt.net> |
Would anyone be interested in a BRS 750 canister? It is out of date. I
dont know when it was last repacked. BRS says that they will do a repack
and convert to model 5 for $1000.
basically a new BRS 5 after the repack/conversion.
The reason Im replacing it is to go up to a 900...Otherwise I would have
this one redone by BRS.
Ross
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Perkins <2scott(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | High Performance Legal Ultralight Kit |
This can rather easily be a legal 254 pound FAR part 103 ultralight
which does not require either
a license or a medical to fly and has folding wings ( compound style
like a bird )
see attached pics of folded finished Firefly along with current pics of
project on wheels..
For the last year or so I was helping a friend build a KOLB FIREFLY.
Recently he passed away due
to a stroke. The plane is approx half built (I would assume) with epoxy
primer on the welded
4130 cabin structure, and the airframe is on its wheels with all tail
controls hooked up and
all tail structures finished and installed. This is a $15,000 kit
missing less than $1,000
of parts etc. I am selling for family for $8,000 firm saving $6,000
from new kit price.
My guess is it could be completed in two-three hundred hours depending
on custom paint
detail. All wing ribs are already made by factory. This kit was
engineered by Barnaby Wainfain
an engineer and prolific writer mostly known for his regular articles in
Kitplanes for many years.
The Firefly is a to my knowledge the only ultralight to be signed off on
by the FAA
based on formula as opposed to observed performance. Basically the FAA
issued
formulas in 1982 for field use in calculating whether the planes would
exceed performance
limits. By observing the strict letter of the law, Kolb found some
loopholes allowing
this plane to meet formula requirements and exceed 55 knots full
throttle level flight by a significant amount..
What remains is building and installing of wings, installation of motor
and instrument panel,
and covering painting. The instrument panel fabrication has already
been completed with
the installation of several optional instruments by a hired out
professional.
The new Rotax 447 44 HP engine only has an hour or two break-in time on
it.
Also included is a new BRS canister ballistic recovery parachute
Here is the website for this airplane.
http://www.tnkolbaircraft.com/firefly.htm
based on a quote today for identical items the same package would cost
approx $15,000
delivered. ( $14,000 accounting for missing items [actually about $700
worth missing] )
I will have the detailed packing list for this kit in a few days to
compare all items.
I figure about a thousand dollars of stuff missing from this kit.
1. propeller... I got it.
2. glues for fabric install and sealer ( polyfiber ) apparently lost.
All I have is fabric
3. a few pages of the plans manual are lost. ( new manual $150 )
4.Wing Tip Strobes. (apparently lost... magnum controller and wiring
installed already )
If interested in higher resolution pictures contact me at
mailto:2scott(at)bellsouth.net
Scott Perkins or 678-290-0507
Marietta, GA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Minewiser" <flykolb(at)carolina.rr.com> |
Some time ago someone on the list posted a warning about exhaust mounts
cracking. Since then I have made a special check on these during my
preflight. Sure enough, about a week ago, I noticed one of the brackets
with a big crack. It was cheep and easy to replace. Just wanted to say
"thanks" to whoever posted the warning and to say that this is one of
the great things about the list.
Jim
Kolb Mark III
Charlotte, NC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "michael mcalister" <michaelmcalister(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | dimensional confusion |
Hi Tom,
I have a 1985 builders manual that came with the Firestar; but I'd love to
get a copy of the plans. Would it be possible to copy yours??
michael
>
> Mike,
>
> If Possum doesn't have everything, email me off list. I have a complete
> set of '85 FireStar plans and builder's manual. The latter doesn't have
> very much specific data and the former has no data on the pre-fabricated
> parts such as the fuselage and aileron control parts so these still
> might be a problem if an untoward event happens.
>
> The good news is the FireStar wings and tail will fit a FireFly fuselage
> if that kind rebuild is required.
>
> Tom Kuffel
> Whitefish, MT
> Building Original FireStar
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org> |
| Subject: | Re: 447, carb ice, & procedure question |
Well done. Am looking forward to the pictures.
Let me propose an off-the-wall possibility. As a long time dirt bike rider
and racer, (2 cycle) I have had situations where an engine would load up on
me, and take a while to clear out. For whatever reason, it would be because
it had a crankcase full of too much fuel. When you started it up, it would
4-stroke and run slow for several seconds, and then finally clear out. What
are the chances that under the right conditions, excess water could collect
in the crankcase just as excess fuel can collect in the crankcase? Or would
it have to be sucked on through, along with the fuel and air mixture?
I have no hard evidence, this is just a theory. Anyone?
And if true, how would we find out?
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>Mark,
>
>I ran an experiment to see if I could reproduce on the ground what happened
>to me while flying. First I tied the plane down and ran 4500 rpm it in a
>misting rain and after fifteen minutes I gave up. After I thought about it
>a bit, I realized that the throttle setting for 4500 rpm in the air would
>have been less than 4500 rpm static.
>
>Since I did not want to wait on another misting rain, I connected a sump
>pump (light plastic) tube to the carburetor entrance with duct tape. I ran
>it down along the cage members to the right front wheel. Duct taped the
>tube to the cage member and the gear leg so if it got loose it would not
>get into the prop. The lower end of the tube was attached to the output of
>a cool mist humidifier, the kind that a little taper tube spins in a tank
>of water and pumps up the taper until the water whips out on a disk which
>breaks the water into very fine particles. The outlet of the mister
>sprayed into a duct tape plenum that was attached to the bottom end of sump
>pump tube. Next I tied the tail spring to my pickup, started up the 447
>and let it run at 3000 rpm until the CHT came up to over 200 degrees. Then
>I plugged in the motor of the cool mister and increased the 447 to 3500 rpm
>and started the timer. I let it run this way for five minutes. Then I
>started to slowly open the throttle to increase engine speed. Everything
>went well until engine speed got to 3800 rpm and then the engine speed
>started to fall off and to get rough. If I jigged the throttle a little
>closed the engine would pick up, but if I jigged the throttle more open,
>rpm fell off even more. I tried this several times and always got the same
>results. Then I shut the engine off, ran around to the back side of the
>wing, and removed the tube from the carburetor, thinking that I would see
>some ice. I saw nothing. I lifted the slide with my finger and felt in
>the bottom of the throat behind the needle and I could not feel or see any
>ice. The throat was cool but did not feel like it was any where near
>freezing temperature.
>
>The only thing I can conclude is that the air saturated with water vapor
>does drop out water as it passes through the narrow opening between the
>throttle plate and the bottom of the throat. I believe these water droplets
>some how collect together and interfere with the vents found on the throat
>surface behind the mid range needle and/or middle range needle-jet. The
>only way this can happen is for a standing shock pulse wave to develop in
>the carburetor throat, and that may be what is happening at 3800 rpm. I
>took the bowl off the carburetor and it had no water in it after the test
>or after the real flight.
>
>No I didn't prove icing, but if the air temp had been close to freezing, I
>believe it is very probable. What I did prove is that if you are flying in
>very moist air you can experience the above effect if you fly at greatly
>reduced power with a 447 and that carb heat would be beneficial. And if
>you want to reproduce effect, have a go at it. I took some pictures and I
>will put them up on my web site after they are developed.
>
>Jack B. Hart FF004
>Jackson, MO
>
>
>>
>>In a message dated 10/30/01 5:45:49 PM Eastern Standard Time, jbhart(at)ldd.net
>>writes:
>>
>>
>>> The reason I am asking this is
>>> that it seemed every time I tried to open the throttle a small amount
>>> engine rpm would drop and then when I closed the throttle a little bit the
>>> engine would pick up a little bit. This is one of the longest 20 minute
>>> flights I have ever made.
>>>
>>
>>Jack:
>>
>> This is one of the most interesting posts I've seen in a while. I've
>>had a number of conversations with guys who insist that carb ice is a non
>>issue in rotax engines. The carbs are thought to be too close to the case
>>for any meaninful ice to bulud up, and because the injection oil/premix oil
>>is sprayed around that there is not way for ice to build up on the slide.
>If
>>you come to a conclusion I'd love to know about it.
>>
>>Mark R. Sellers
>>Kolb Twinstar Mark III
>>N496BM
>>
>Mark,
>
>I agree that carb ice will not be a problem at normal cruise speeds. I
>have flown in these conditions many times and through light rain, and I
>have never had a problem like today. I believe as long as you keep the
>engine working hard say 5000 rpm and over, you are unlikely to have a
>problem. On the 447 with the prop set for cruise and to top out at 6000
>rpm, the engine will reach this rpm at a little less than 40% throttle.
>When I was flying at 4500 the throttle was open just over 20%. If one runs
>the numbers to see what is going on at the throttle cylinder orifice, the
>air velocity passing through under the throttle cylinder is about twice as
>fast at 20% and 4500 rpm as it is at 40% and 6000 rpm. Therefore the
>pressure drop a cross the throttle cylinder at 4500 is twice that of 6000
>rpm and along with the corresponding temperature drop causes the water to
>flash out of the air as fog and to freeze on to the super cooled surfaces.
>
>What I am trying to figure out is where does the ice interfere. Does it
>build up and clog the mid range needle and jet, or does it extend on back
>and plug the idle orifices as well? Is it better to slam the throttle
>closed to dislodge ice and reopen the throttle to get full power, or to do
>as I did and jigger it until the engine rpm increases? Or was I just lucky?
>
>The important thing is to try to maintain some reasonable altitude so that
>when unexpected things like this happen one does not have to react
>immediately to land. One has some time to figure out what to do as you
>head back toward the airport, to shorten the walk, or what ever.
>
>Jack B. Hart FF004
>Jackson, MO
>
>
>Jack & Louise Hart
>jbhart(at)ldd.net
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Your old saying... |
I believe it went something like" Green side down, flat side back"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tom Kuffel <kuffel(at)cyberport.net> |
| Subject: | Re: dimensional confusion |
Mike,
<<1985 .. Firestar.. copy of the plans. Would it be possible to copy
yours??>>
No problem, happy to share. I live in rural Montana so it might take me
a while to find a place to copy the drawings. Have no idea what they
would charge. We are talking about 16 24x36 badly faded sheets. Let me
know the maximum charge you would feel is reasonable. If whoever I find
wants more then I will hold off and get your permission first.
Tom
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "H MITCHELL" <mitchmnd(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Ultralight cross country |
Last weekend I wanted to go to a fly-in located about 30 miles from my home base.
The airport was still dark when I rolled my little FireFly out for her preflight.
As usual I went to the FBO office for coffee and to see if there was anything
I should know that may effect my planned trip. I told one of the air port
regulars that I planned to fly to the gathering during the morning calm and
back when it calms down again in the evening.
This is a man for whom I have great respect. He has flown all over the world as
a crop duster, made a bundle in manufacturing and now content to just be around
the airport.
He casually mentioned that the morning calm was not very calm, hurricane
Michelle was churning along about 800 miles to the South and that I should be prepared
to stay at the fly-in site if necessary.
I had anticipated this trip all week and did not want to "chicken out". The wind
at ground level wasn't all that bad so I taxied out and headed for the fly-in.
After about five minutes of bucking in the air I did a 180
and brought her back home for a pretty good landing an tucked her back in the hangar.
My reasoning goes something like this. I don't enjoy flying when I have to hang
on and fight the controls every minute. There was probably some fairly smooth
air up there somewhere but is it worth risking my plane to try to find it. I
have about $12,000 and a year of my life in the plane and I love that little machine.
I have watched several of my more adventures pilot friends unloading trailers
full of bent wreckage and just don't think it's worth the risk for me.
I believe that re-building a plane is much harder than building a plane.
I have friends who regularly fly hundreds of miles to gatherings all over the South
with very few problems. These are not daredevils who are ready to die for
the thrill of it. They are intelligent, educated adults with
good mechanical skills who just have a lot more confidence in there engines than
I do. When I arrived at this fly-in via my trusty truck they were all there
with their planes. They fly 503 powered Challengers and 582 powered Kolbs not
that much bigger than my Fly. They had flown 40 to 50 miles that morning and were
getting ready to go another 60 miles to another
fly-in that was being held that same day.
I learned a few days later that one of them found smooth air at 7,000 feet on the
way home from one of his trips. My altimeter only goes to 5,000' and so do
I.
Flame away !!!!
Duane the plane (sometimes the truck), Tallahassee, FL, FireFly SN 007, 103 Hrs.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Ultralight cross country |
| From: | Richard Carlisle <rrcarl(at)nhvt.net> |
I went to 9000ft in my PPG once just to say I did it, but I dont usually go
much higher than 2000ft AGL. As far as cross countries...I suppose it does
take a level of confidence in the machine. I routinly do 60 miles one way
to visit my dad. I do it so often I dont consider it a cross country and
dont really do any planning. If the wind is less than 30 and its not
raining, I go. I do that in the Phantom...By next spring I'll have that
level of confidence in the Twinstar.
Someday I would like to fly to Sun n'Fun. New Hampshire to Florida. I
think that might take a bit of planning. I'd like to do that trip in the
Twinstar.
Ross
> From: "H MITCHELL" <mitchmnd(at)msn.com>
> Reply-To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Fri, 9 Nov 2001 21:09:27 -0500
> To: "kolblist"
> Subject: Kolb-List: Ultralight cross country
>
> My altimeter only goes to 5,000'> and so do I.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Ultralight cross country |
Flame what ?? Sound like a pretty smart feller to me. I, too, have backed
out a few times, when others were flying, saw them when they came back, and
was pleased with my own decision. Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "H MITCHELL" <mitchmnd(at)msn.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: Ultralight cross country
>
> Last weekend I wanted to go to a fly-in located about 30 miles from my ho> me
base. The airport was still dark when I rolled my little FireFly out f> or her
preflight. As usual I went to the FBO office for coffee and to see> if there
was anything I should know that may effect my planned trip. I t> old one of
the air port regulars that I planned to fly to the gathering d> uring the morning
calm and back when it calms down again in the evening.
> This is a man for whom I have great respect. He has flown all over the wo> rld
as a crop duster, made a bundle in manufacturing and now content to j> ust be
around the airport.
>
> He casually mentioned that the morning calm was not very calm, hurricane
> Michelle was churning along about 800 miles to the South and that I shoul> d
be prepared to stay at the fly-in site if necessary.
>
> I had anticipated this trip all week and did not want to "chicken out". T> he
wind at ground level wasn't all that bad so I taxied out and headed fo> r the
fly-in. After about five minutes of bucking in the air I did a 180
> and brought her back home for a pretty good landing an tucked her back in> the
hangar.
>
> My reasoning goes something like this. I don't enjoy flying when I have t> o
hang on and fight the controls every minute. There was probably some fa> irly
smooth air up there somewhere but is it worth risking my plane to tr> y to find
it. I have about $12,000 and a year of my life in the plane and> I love that
little machine. I have watched several of my more adventures> pilot friends
unloading trailers full of bent wreckage and just don't th> ink it's worth the
risk for me. I believe that re-building a plane is muc> h harder than building
a plane.
>
> I have friends who regularly fly hundreds of miles to gatherings all over> the
South with very few problems. These are not daredevils who are ready> to die
for the thrill of it. They are intelligent, educated adults with
> good mechanical skills who just have a lot more confidence in there engin> es
than I do. When I arrived at this fly-in via my trusty truck they were> all
there with their planes. They fly 503 powered Challengers and 582 po> wered Kolbs
not that much bigger than my Fly. They had flown 40 to 50 mil> es that morning
and were getting ready to go another 60 miles to another
> fly-in that was being held that same day.
>
> I learned a few days later that one of them found smooth air at 7,000 fee> t
on the way home from one of his trips. My altimeter only goes to 5,000'> and
so do I.
>
> Flame away !!!!
>
> Duane the plane (sometimes the truck), Tallahassee, FL, FireFly SN 007, 1> 03
Hrs.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerryb <ulflyer(at)airmail.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Your old saying... |
There was a third part that dealt with EGT's and engine loading (prop pitch).
Anybody recall Dennis old saying?
>
>I believe it went something like" Green side down, flat side back"
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
Well, Phooey...............again. If I had a memory, I'd be dangerous.
I went ahead and built a web page on using the laser to set prop pitch,
with the old Homestead format, since I'm comfortable with that. For a
simpler address, I tried to move it over to the Gogittum Lar site, but
can't seem to remember how to do it. Well, tomorrow's another day, so
for now you can (if you like) see the new page at:
http://www.homestead.com/flyingpics/proppitch.html
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.gogittum.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Clay Stuart" <cstuart(at)searnet.com> |
Duane said:
"I had anticipated this trip all week and did not want to "chicken out". The
wind at ground level
wasn't all that bad so I taxied out and headed for the fly-in. After about
five minutes of bucking
in the air I did a 180 and brought her back home for a pretty good landing
an tucked her back
in the hangar"
Reminds me of the flying axiom:
"It is better to be on the ground wishing you were in the air, rather than
being in the air wishing you
were on the ground."
Clay Stuart
Danville KY
1 yr of building-up to the quick-build point in the manual
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Bean <slyck(at)frontiernet.net> |
Group, I would prefer to put fuel injection on my Suzuki, but haven't
completely dimissed a carburetor (for simplicity, price and ease of
installation) Question: what are possible prospects for --
4-stroke
60 cu in
80 cfm
prefer updraft
--BB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Swiderski" <swiderskir(at)earthlink.net> |
Bob,
HP ultimately boils down to how much fuel & air you can burn in a given
amount of time, so any carb setup on engines with equivavlent HP to your
engine will put you in the ball park. Rpm, 2 or 4 stroke really will not
matter that much.
What kind of Suzuki are you working on & what are you going to put it
on? ...Richard Swiderski
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Bean" <slyck(at)frontiernet.net>
Subject: Kolb-List: carb?
>
> Group, I would prefer to put fuel injection on my Suzuki, but haven't
> completely dimissed a carburetor (for simplicity, price and ease of
> installation) Question: what are possible prospects for --
> 4-stroke
> 60 cu in
> 80 cfm
> prefer updraft
> --BB
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Woody <duesouth(at)iname.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Ultralight cross country |
While you are building do a bit of work on the seating. The angled
crossmember going across your back and shoulder will start to dig in after
about half an hour. (Twinstar only)
> I do that in the Phantom...By next spring I'll have that
>level of confidence in the Twinstar.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Ultralight cross country |
| From: | Richard Carlisle <rrcarl(at)nhvt.net> |
Yep...Im also going to widen the rudder pedals and build a new nose cowl
with a bit more coverage. I decided not to enclose. I want to keep it as
light as possible...besides, I like open cockpit flying.
Ross
> From: Woody <duesouth(at)iname.com>
> Reply-To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Sat, 10 Nov 2001 09:24:32 -0500
> To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Ultralight cross country
>
>
>
> While you are building do a bit of work on the seating. The angled
> crossmember going across your back and shoulder will start to dig in after
> about half an hour. (Twinstar only)
>
>
>> I do that in the Phantom...By next spring I'll have that
>> level of confidence in the Twinstar.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Swiderski" <swiderskir(at)earthlink.net> |
Listers,
I just made a start on my new website.
http://www.geocities.com/ib2polish/Swiderski.html
(I'm not even going to try to compete with Big Lar!) Its far from finished
but its a start. Under the engine section (3 cylinder Turbocharged Suzuki
4-stroke), "About Engine", "Throttle Body Assembly" & "Oil Pan/Sump Sys" are
fairly complete.
It looks like we'll be moving (to a home with a 30x36 workshop & access
to a 4000ft grass strip!) so I won't be getting too much further on the
engine for a while, but I'll try to catch up with posting the pictures of
the work I have done.
...Richard Swiderski
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ZepRep251(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Ultralight cross country |
Some wise old guy once told me; better to be down here wishing you were up
there than to be up there wishing you were down here.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ZepRep251(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Exhaust mounts |
You're welcome
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Duncan McBride" <duncan.mcbride(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Ultralight cross country |
In hang gliding, when the conditions are marginal for running off a cliff in
midday thermal turbulence, what a veteran pilot will say to his buddies, is,
"You aren't afraid to wait, are you?"
Nobody's ever afraid to wait. Well done, Duane. Hope to get up that way
sometime.
Duncan McBride, Fort Myers. One registered and nearly airworthy Mark III,
319DM.
----- Original Message -----
From: "H MITCHELL" <mitchmnd(at)msn.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: Ultralight cross country
>
> Last weekend I wanted to go to a fly-in located about 30 miles from my ho> me
base. >
> Flame away !!!!
>
> Duane the plane (sometimes the truck), Tallahassee, FL, FireFly SN 007, 1> 03
Hrs.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "H MITCHELL" <mitchmnd(at)msn.com> |
It was such a beautiful day today I flew about thirty miles to meet with
friends at what was once a military flight training school. I made my usual approach
and brought her in with full flaperons for a nice slow touchdown. Everything
was going just right until I actually touched down. The flapping sound I
heard and the bumps I felt were from a flat tire on my right gear. Fortunately
she was very easy to handle and there was only a mild tendency to pull to the
right. It worked out very well because I did not have to push her very far to
be safely clear of the asphalt. Some of the guys came out to where I was stopped
and helped me get the wheel off and than with the removal of the tube. The
leak was caused by a break at the base of the tube's stem.
Lesson learned: I have always carried very low pressure in my tires because I thought
they would absorb the shock of some of my less elegant landings and they
look sort of cool when she is on display. WRONG! I got away
with it when I made most of my landings in the grass but I have been using the
asphalt wherever I go lately. Touching down on asphalt causes those under-inflated
tires to twist the tubes and place great stress on the them. The replacement
tube was bathed in talcum before installation and both tires were inflated
to about 20 PSI. The notice on the side of the tire said 70 PSI but that seemed
very high for this application.
There was one other, unplanned, result. That annoying wheel out of balance bumping
that shook my whole plane as I lifted off is now gone. Those under inflated
tires took a set when she was parked between flying days and made the wheel
out of balance.
Duane the plane in Tallahassee, FL, FireFly SN 007, 447, IVO & hard tires
----- Original Message -----
From: Larry Bourne
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Ultralight cross country
Flame what ?? Sound like a pretty smart feller to me. I, too, have backed
out a few times, when others were flying, saw them when they came back, and
was pleased with my own decision. Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "H MITCHELL" <mitchmnd(at)msn.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: Ultralight cross country
>
> Last weekend I wanted to go to a fly-in located about 30 miles from my
ho
> me base. The airport was still dark when I rolled my little FireFly out f
> or her preflight. As usual I went to the FBO office for coffee and to see
> if there was anything I should know that may effect my planned trip. I t
> old one of the air port regulars that I planned to fly to the gathering d
> uring the morning calm and back when it calms down again in the evening.
> This is a man for whom I have great respect. He has flown all over the
wo
> rld as a crop duster, made a bundle in manufacturing and now content to j
> ust be around the airport.
>
> He casually mentioned that the morning calm was not very calm, hurricane
> Michelle was churning along about 800 miles to the South and that I shoul
> d be prepared to stay at the fly-in site if necessary.
>
> I had anticipated this trip all week and did not want to "chicken out". T
> he wind at ground level wasn't all that bad so I taxied out and headed
fo
> r the fly-in. After about five minutes of bucking in the air I did a 180
> and brought her back home for a pretty good landing an tucked her back
in
> the hangar.
>
> My reasoning goes something like this. I don't enjoy flying when I have t
> o hang on and fight the controls every minute. There was probably some
fa
> irly smooth air up there somewhere but is it worth risking my plane to
tr
> y to find it. I have about $12,000 and a year of my life in the plane and
> I love that little machine. I have watched several of my more adventures
> pilot friends unloading trailers full of bent wreckage and just don't
th
> ink it's worth the risk for me. I believe that re-building a plane is muc
> h harder than building a plane.
>
> I have friends who regularly fly hundreds of miles to gatherings all over
> the South with very few problems. These are not daredevils who are ready
> to die for the thrill of it. They are intelligent, educated adults with
> good mechanical skills who just have a lot more confidence in there engin
> es than I do. When I arrived at this fly-in via my trusty truck they were
> all there with their planes. They fly 503 powered Challengers and 582
po
> wered Kolbs not that much bigger than my Fly. They had flown 40 to 50 mil
> es that morning and were getting ready to go another 60 miles to another
> fly-in that was being held that same day.
>
> I learned a few days later that one of them found smooth air at 7,000 fee
> t on the way home from one of his trips. My altimeter only goes to 5,000'
> and so do I.
>
> Flame away !!!!
>
> Duane the plane (sometimes the truck), Tallahassee, FL, FireFly SN 007, 1
> 03 Hrs.
>
>
=
=
=
=
=
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
Looks like you're off to a running start. I really like that extended sump
idea. Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Swiderski" <swiderskir(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: New Website
>
> Listers,
>
> I just made a start on my new website.
> http://www.geocities.com/ib2polish/Swiderski.html
> (I'm not even going to try to compete with Big Lar!) Its far from
finished
> but its a start. Under the engine section (3 cylinder Turbocharged Suzuki
> 4-stroke), "About Engine", "Throttle Body Assembly" & "Oil Pan/Sump Sys"
are
> fairly complete.
> It looks like we'll be moving (to a home with a 30x36 workshop &
access
> to a 4000ft grass strip!) so I won't be getting too much further on the
> engine for a while, but I'll try to catch up with posting the pictures of
> the work I have done.
>
> ...Richard Swiderski
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lanceairone(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | RE: Slingshot wanted |
From: Kolbguy(at)aol.com
Subject: Kolb-List: Slingshot wanted
Anyone know of a good Slingshot for sale?
Mike Taylor
Hi Mike,
There is a guy in Atlanta that has a beautifully built Slingshot that he is
reluctantly going to sell. I saw it a few weeks ago and if I had the money
I'd jump on it. One of the best built Kolbs I've seen. Its even
rib-stitched and has smooth, gussetted trailing edges! A lot of hours went
into building this one. The price is right too. $17,900 OBO. He said it
cost $23K to build. Has a 582, Warpdrive, radio, large tundra tires, and
hydraulic brakes. Very nice package.
His name is John Berndsen. He's building a new plane and rarely has time to
fly the Slingshot. Contact him at berndsenco(at)aol.com
Lance
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Possum <possums(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tires and tubes |
>
>It was such a beautiful day today I flew about thirty miles to meet with
>friends at what was once a military flight training school.
This has nothing to do with this post but!!!
Well - just a report on this today's activities (normal as far as I can tell).
Got up to the field at about 9:00AM - early for me, but still 60 degrees
and Sunny.
Monthly GSFA meeting at Cartersville Airport at 11:00Am - so had time to
preflight my plane & fuel up too. http://www.georgiasportflyers.com/
"The Club" elected a new president, vice president, and sec/tres. +
"three" new interns.
Just kidding about the interns. If interested in the intern jobs - apply to
possums@mindspring/interns/livein/single/nokids/.com
"Life's tough, life's tougher when your stupid " to quote - John Wayne.
Well, at 12:00 the meeting's over so - now, we've got to order Lunch/Pizza
at the airport
"or" we've got to go somewhere? Not a lot of choice for most of us.
So here we go to Alabama, just 40 miles or so, to "Head Quarters" airfield.
Hey ....it's on the "sectionals" and everything!
And yeah ... I know, that if I had a brother in "Alabama" and a brother in
"prison",
I would probably try to get the brother in "Alabama" out first!
But, we had a nice trip considering the fact that we had to find our fellow
club member
and "friend" that actually "owns" the place --- by cell phone.
Appears he was out shopping/bonding with his wife and might I add, "she's
a hell of a good
sport" since we had the pajama party there 2 weeks ago.. . Anyway, we found
them -
or they found us about 10 minutes after we landed. We invited ourselves to
the leftover/frozen
hamburgers from two weeks ago. What a guy!! Shoulda been "president" of our
club, but in "our"
club, you have to volunteer, and like "John Wayne" says ...
Got to see three "Paramotors" on the way back - landed at Roade's Field
to watch them
take off and try to fly. Got back at 5:00PM. There goes the whole day!!
I'll try to do better tomorrow.
P.S. Just for fun:
Three Card Monte - or how to work your way through college.
I'll be the dealer
We will play with one "Ace" and two "Jacks"
Before we bet anything, I will deal the three cards "face down" on the
table in front of
you.
Since I looked at the cards before I dealt them, I know where the Ace is
and you don't.
You will choose a card, trying to pick the Ace.
Next (and before we make any wagers) I will turn over one of the two cards
you didn't
choose. It will always be a Jack, since I know where the cards are and
there are two Jacks.
Now - you will be asked to place a bet on whether the card you choose is
the Ace (you Win)
or the remaining Jack (you Lose).
Winner takes all.
Then I will ask you if you would like to KEEP your first choice or SWITCH
to the other "face down" card.
No charge to switch cards, since there are only two left.
So what would you do?
1. Always SWITCH.
2. Never SWITCH.
3. Sometimes SWITCH when I have a "hunch".
4. It makes no difference.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
I just got the new Nov 2001 Experimenter magazine, and on page 39 is an
article about "Strobe Light Care." He says that if you don't use your
strobes, the capacitors will be ruined, and gives instructions on how to
re-build the electrolytic film. Anybody else ever heard of this ??
I've had my Kuntzleman strobes in the box for 5 years now, and they've
never been powered up, tho' that should change by Christmas. Any
comments ?? Uneasy Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.gogittum.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Possum <possums(at)mindspring.com> |
>
>I just got the new Nov 2001 Experimenter magazine, and on page 39 is an
>article about "Strobe Light Care." He says that if you don't use your
>strobes, the capacitors will be ruined, and gives instructions on how to
>re-build the electrolytic film. Anybody else ever heard of this ??
>I've had my Kuntzleman strobes in the box for 5 years now, and they've
>never been powered up, tho' that should change by Christmas. Any
>comments ?? Uneasy Lar.
Which Christmas?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jrodebush" <jrodebush(at)cinci.rr.com> |
Lar wrote:
"I just got the new Nov 2001 Experimenter magazine, and on page 39 is an
article about "Strobe Light Care." He says that if you don't use your
strobes, the capacitors will be ruined,......................"
I would be interested in any comments also. I was going to buy the strobes
this winter to fabricate the brackets and install on the wings. However, it
will probably be at least two more years till they are turned on.
Rex Rodebush
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
The other night I published the URL to a new web page about pitching
props with a laser. On that page, I mentioned that movement is a real
problem, and it certainly is. A friend used a digital level for
pitching his, and it was easy and worked very well, but buying one just
for this would be very expensive. Just now, sending a note off List, I
thought............"why not rent one ??" Wouldn't those tool rental
outfits have them available ?? Worth checking. My little laser toy
worked very well, and cost very little, but it was a real pain in the
*** to use. The slightest twitch or puff of breeze moves that laser dot
all over the place. I'm not sure if the original page went thru OK, so
here's the URL again..............just click on it.
http://www.homestead.com/flyingpics.proppitch.html
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.gogittum.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter Volum" <PVolum(at)etsmiami.com> |
"Kolb \(E-mail\)"
| Subject: | RE: Virus Alert from Kip (Kolb) |
Kip:
I sent my message to the list after receiving an email that contained a
virus. Though it didnt appear to originate from the Matronics server, I
mentioned it to the group because it was a Kolb related message that may
have been sent to others on the list as well. My antivirus detected it so
it didnt cause any problems for me.
A copy of the infected message (minus the virus) follows below.
Jeff may not even know hes sending out the virus, so Im cc:ing him on
this message as well.
According to Norton Antivirus, the name of the virus was:
W32.Magistr.24876@mm.
Peter
This was the message that contained an attachment with the virus:
-----Original Message-----
From: Jeff [mailto:firedude9(at)prodigy.net]
Subject: Bradshaw, 503 DCDI, oil
IVO 2 blade 66", 28 hours
McBee SC, 843-658-3158 , HYPERLINK "
mailto:PIPERJ-5(at)shtc.net"PIPERJ-5(at)shtc.net
Charles "Chuck" Reinert, FIRESTAR I, 70 hours
Edgefield, SC, 803-275-2727, HYPERLINK "
mailto:Nuclearsrs(at)cs.com"Nuclearsrs(at)cs.com
Howard Shackleford, FIRESTAR I, [7 ribs], 503 DCDI, 190 hours
Lexington, SC, 803 359-1136, HYPERLINK " mailto:HShack@aol.
-----Original Message-----
From: dama [mailto:dama(at)mindspring.com]
Subject: Virus Alert from Kip (Kolb)
Peter, the below was sent from Mr. Bradshaw.
Any ideas,
Kip
Kip,
I Read this post to the Kolb List from Peter Volum.
-------------------------------- 11-09-01
From: "Peter Volum" < PVolum(at)etsmiami.com <mailto:PVolum(at)etsmiami.com> >
Subject: Kolb-List: KOLB WARNING - READ FIRST!!
>
I just received a Kolb type of mailing with the title heading Bradshaw, 503
DCDI, oil that contains a virus.
Dont open it!!
Peter Volum
Mk III
-----------------------------------
Looks like my info from the data base. I have not sent
any e-mail lately. Wonder whats going on . Check it out
please, to see if everything is ok with the data base.
Thanks, Danny Bradshaw
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
Sorry, I made a boo-boo............that url should be......................
http://www.homestead.com/flyingpics/proppitch.html Just click
on it.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: Pitch
>
> The other night I published the URL to a new web page about pitching
> props with a laser. On that page, I mentioned that movement is a real
> problem, and it certainly is. A friend used a digital level for
> pitching his, and it was easy and worked very well, but buying one just
> for this would be very expensive. Just now, sending a note off List, I
> thought............"why not rent one ??" Wouldn't those tool rental
> outfits have them available ?? Worth checking. My little laser toy
> worked very well, and cost very little, but it was a real pain in the
> *** to use. The slightest twitch or puff of breeze moves that laser dot
> all over the place. I'm not sure if the original page went thru OK, so
> here's the URL again..............just click on it.
>
> http://www.homestead.com/flyingpics.proppitch.html
> Larry Bourne
> Palm Springs, Ca.
> Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
> http://www.gogittum.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Have You Tried the New List Browse Feature?? |
Hi Listers,
I've been getting a LOT of very positive feedback on the new Email List
Browsing feature I added to the suite of List services a couple of weeks
ago. A number of List members have written to say that they love the new
List Browser because they can keep tabs on the latest List messages
throughout the day without having to constantly check their email or wait
for the Digest issue to come out.
The List Browse Function allows you to use your web browser to view the
current 7 day's worth of List messages for the give List. The indexes are
updated every 30 minutes with any new messages that have been posted. You
can sort all of the message indexes by Thread, Subject, Author, or Date and
easily track and find current threads.
You can check out the New List Browse Feature by going to the following URL
and clicking on the List of your choice:
http://www.matronics.com/listbrowse
Please remember that November is List Fund Raiser month!! The continued
operation and upgrade of the Email Lists are _entirely_ supported by YOUR
Contributions and support. You'll never see annoying, flashing banner ads,
or other forms of commercialism on these Lists. Just people sharing
information, data, and stories about your favorite topic, plain (plane?)
and simple.
If you enjoy the Lists and all of the services here, won't you take moment
and make a quick Contribution? It fast and easy using the SSL Secure Web
site with your Visa or MasterCard. Or, you can also send a personal check
to the address listed below.
SSL Secure Web Site: http://www.matronics.com/contribution
USMail: Matt Dralle
c/o Matronics
PO Box 347
Livermore, CA 94551-0347
Don't forget that the "List of Contributors" will be coming out in just a
few short weeks! Don't you want to make sure you're name is on it?
I would like to wish a special "Thank You" to everyone that has made a
Contribution so far this year!!
Matt Dralle
Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "George E. Thompson" <eagle1(at)commspeed.net> |
| Subject: | Two beautiful Kolbs for sale |
Fellow Kolbers. I have two Kolbs for sale. One is a single place Firestar
KXP model and the other is a Firestar II . They both have a 503 dual Ign.
The single place has but a single carb, but it has in flight adjustable
mixture control.It has 275 hrs on it. It also has a BRS canister chute that
is out of date. and needs repacked. It also has an in flight Ivo adjustable
prop and wheel pants. It has 9 gal fuel tanks. I have flown this plane from
Arizona to Missouri and back, no problems.
The Firestar II has dual ign dual carbs with in flight mixture
controls. It has electric starter and a big strobe. In flight Ivo electric
prop. It has 10 gal tank with electric pump boost. It has only about 40 hrs
on it.
Both have always been hangered ( with Stitts coverings)
Why would I be selling these you would ask. Well friends, I am 77
years young and I want to quite while I am ahead. I am too old to have the
fan stop and destroy a perfectly good plane and break some of my brittle old
bones. Ask yourself, At what age do I think I should ground myself? I enjoy
flying as much as I did over 50 years ago, but I think there comes a time.
I plan to keep flying until the last plane is sold, no hurry and they
are well worth the asking money.(check the kit prices now)
Both planes are located near Prescott AZ. in a hanger. I am asking
$10,995 for the Firestar II and only $8995 for the single seat KXP..
Pictures available off line.
The Bald Eagle of Arizona.
Phone #928 776 9543
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Dorsey <rmd-mcse(at)home.com> |
Best to consult your particular manufacturer. This is from the Whelen
installation manual:
WARNING: Strobe light power supplies are meant to be used, not
to remain
in an inactive state. Use them at all times, this will improve
their proper
functioning. Any strobe light power supply that has been
out of service for
a long period of time is subject to failure because
the electrolytic
condenser loses the polarity formation. A strobe light
power supply not
having been used for one year or longer is vulner-
able to failure. If this
is the case, it is recommended to start operating the system
on a voltage
that is reduced by 25 percent for 10 to 15 minutes before
putting the power
supply into normal service. This will prevent over-
heating of the
condenser while they reform. If the power supply, after
a long period of
non use, is operated at full voltage immediately, there
is an excellent
possibility that the condenser will become overheated.
>
>I just got the new Nov 2001 Experimenter magazine, and on page 39 is an
>article about "Strobe Light Care." He says that if you don't use your
>strobes, the capacitors will be ruined, and gives instructions on how to
>re-build the electrolytic film. Anybody else ever heard of this ??
>I've had my Kuntzleman strobes in the box for 5 years now, and they've
>never been powered up, tho' that should change by Christmas. Any
>comments ?? Uneasy Lar.
>
>Larry Bourne
>Palm Springs, Ca.
>Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
>http://www.gogittum.com
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerryb <ulflyer(at)airmail.net> |
Our EAA chapter over the years has acquired some of those special or costly
tools you only use once in a great while. Chapter members are allowed to
barrow them for their own use. The digital level, set of scales, bore
scopes, instrument panel punches are all good tools.
jerryb
>
>The other night I published the URL to a new web page about pitching
>props with a laser. On that page, I mentioned that movement is a real
>problem, and it certainly is. A friend used a digital level for
>pitching his, and it was easy and worked very well, but buying one just
>for this would be very expensive. Just now, sending a note off List, I
>thought............"why not rent one ??" Wouldn't those tool rental
>outfits have them available ?? Worth checking. My little laser toy
>worked very well, and cost very little, but it was a real pain in the
>*** to use. The slightest twitch or puff of breeze moves that laser dot
>all over the place. I'm not sure if the original page went thru OK, so
>here's the URL again..............just click on it.
>
>http://www.homestead.com/flyingpics.proppitch.html
>Larry Bourne
>Palm Springs, Ca.
>Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
>http://www.gogittum.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "michael mcalister" <michaelmcalister(at)mediaone.net> |
does anyone have experience w/ the Westach "propellor type" airspeed
indicator?? has a little plastic 6" propellor w/ (i guess) a small
generator that goes on the wing (or wherever).... wires go to the dash for
a/s indication. good for up to 60 MPH, the catalog says.... lightweight
too.
anyone used one of these??
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Clay Stuart" <cstuart(at)searnet.com> |
| Subject: | wheels on Mark IIIXtra |
I am getting ready to attach the wheels to the cage. In researching the
archives, most sources recommend a straight to slightly toe-out alignment.
I was planning to place a straight rod thru the axle fittings to line the
gear up in a parallel alignment. Should I weight the cage before drilling
the holes? One person said that the weight of passengers, fuel, engine will
cause a slight toe-out to occur. The solid aluminum gear legs that came
with this kit seem so stiff that I can't imagine much flex under load, but I
guess it is possible.
Thanks,
Clay Stuart
Danville KY
1 yr building
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Guy Swenson" <guys(at)rrt.net> |
| Subject: | Re: wheels on Mark IIIXtra |
Clay,
Go ahead and use the rod to align the axle fittings. I found there was
little, if any change loaded or empty. Straight to slightly toe out is
preferred.
Guy S.
MK III Xtra
----- Original Message -----
From: "Clay Stuart" <cstuart(at)searnet.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: wheels on Mark IIIXtra
>
> I am getting ready to attach the wheels to the cage. In researching the
> archives, most sources recommend a straight to slightly toe-out alignment.
> I was planning to place a straight rod thru the axle fittings to line the
> gear up in a parallel alignment. Should I weight the cage before drilling
> the holes? One person said that the weight of passengers, fuel, engine
will
> cause a slight toe-out to occur. The solid aluminum gear legs that came
> with this kit seem so stiff that I can't imagine much flex under load, but
I
> guess it is possible.
>
> Thanks,
> Clay Stuart
> Danville KY
> 1 yr building
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: spinning a yarn |
| From: | Richard Carlisle <rrcarl(at)nhvt.net> |
on 11/11/01 7:04 PM, michael mcalister at michaelmcalister(at)mediaone.net
wrote:
> does anyone have experience w/ the Westach "propellor type" airspeed
> indicator?? has a little plastic 6" propellor w/ (i guess) a small
> generator that goes on the wing (or wherever).... wires go to the dash for
> a/s indication. good for up to 60 MPH, the catalog says.... lightweight
> too.
>
> anyone used one of these??
I havent used one, but Ive heard form others that have that they are quite
accurate..
Ross
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Chmielewski" <edchmiel(at)mindspring.com> |
Why not epoxy or JB Weld a dime-store laser ponter to a cheap level?
Also, I believe pitch can be taken anywhere on the prop, so long as it's the
same distance from the hub center point for each blade (datum). The main
idea is to use the same reference point on each blade.
Ed in JXN
MkII/503
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: Pitch
>
> The other night I published the URL to a new web page about pitching
> props with a laser. On that page, I mentioned that movement is a real
> problem, and it certainly is. A friend used a digital level for
> pitching his, and it was easy and worked very well, but buying one just
> for this would be very expensive.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
| Subject: | Re: wheels on Mark IIIXtra |
Looking at Vamoose the other day, I noticed that the wheels have a slight
outward caster, i.e. the tops of the tires tip inward. When I aligned the
wheels, I couldn't put a 1 piece rod thru the axle journals, cause they were
way too much the other way. Had to cut the rod in 1/2, and clamp it back
together when doing the setup. I know I'm heavy, but don't think it's THAT
bad. I'm going to borrow some scales from work tomorrow, and see just how
much that thing weighs so far. Might be interesting.
Gogittum Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Clay Stuart" <cstuart(at)searnet.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: wheels on Mark IIIXtra
>
> I am getting ready to attach the wheels to the cage. In researching the
> archives, most sources recommend a straight to slightly toe-out alignment.
> I was planning to place a straight rod thru the axle fittings to line the
> gear up in a parallel alignment. Should I weight the cage before drilling
> the holes? One person said that the weight of passengers, fuel, engine
will
> cause a slight toe-out to occur. The solid aluminum gear legs that came
> with this kit seem so stiff that I can't imagine much flex under load, but
I
> guess it is possible.
>
> Thanks,
> Clay Stuart
> Danville KY
> 1 yr building
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
It's pretty obvious from the pics, how I cobbled that thing together, Ed. I
think you're right; probably quite a bit of latitude in how you go about
it, but the main thing is getting it rock solid. That tangle I set up
wobbled the laser dot all over the place at every little tremor, or puff of
breeze, and I did some extensive, heart-felt cussing over the
job...........tho' it worked out well in the end. Just for fun, I'll post
todays happenings separately. Starting to wonder about this whole mess ! !
! Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ed Chmielewski" <edchmiel(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Pitch
>
> Why not epoxy or JB Weld a dime-store laser ponter to a cheap level?
> Also, I believe pitch can be taken anywhere on the prop, so long as it's
the
> same distance from the hub center point for each blade (datum). The main
> idea is to use the same reference point on each blade.
>
> Ed in JXN
> MkII/503
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com>
> To: "Kolb"
> Subject: Kolb-List: Pitch
>
>
> >
> > The other night I published the URL to a new web page about pitching
> > props with a laser. On that page, I mentioned that movement is a real
> > problem, and it certainly is. A friend used a digital level for
> > pitching his, and it was easy and worked very well, but buying one just
> > for this would be very expensive.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
Another Long One From Lar ! ! !
OK, as threatened, here we go................some fun had, and lessons
learned. Fired that thing up again today, to the great delight of
the neighbors. Snowbirds are back in full force, and it was the 1st
time they've seen this mighty project in action.
Harrrrr...........street was nearly empty, and within 30 seconds of
ignition, people were pouring out of the woodwork...........on bicycles,
running on foot, ( retirees ! ! ! ) from in between trailers, from
around the corner.............and all laughing and forming small groups
with big grins on their faces. Must've been 15 or 20 of them.
I got the worst of the oil leaks fixed - the pushrod tubes - and found
a couple of loose connections, and 2 (two) tapered threads.........1 gas
& 1 oil..........that I hadn't goobered, or tightened properly. Says a
lot for making a check list as you go, and checking it twice. Oil
pressure is definitely too high, (over 100 psi) and tho' I got a new oil
pressure kit, I haven't installed it yet. Found a couple of oil hoses
leaking, and there-in lies another lesson. I wanted this thing to look
nice, as well as perform, so I got the steel braid covered oil and fuel
lines. Fuel lines seem OK so far, and are running at 45 psi. The
fittings (5/16") fit the hose quite well, and assembled snugly, but
easily. Can't say the same for the oil lines. (1/2") Can't help being
a little bit of a cheapskate, ( where did I hear that before ??) so when
I bought the hose and fittings, I opted for the cheaper grade, with the
chintzy braid that's loose on the hose, and the imitation anodized
fittings that have a small hose clamp partly hidden in the end fittings.
The "real" ones from Holley and others can cost $20.00 or more - per
fitting ! ! ! - and I just couldn't do it. I'd of had more than $500.00
wrapped up, just in oil & fuel hoses. Well, these look pretty good, but
now I'm paying for it. The oil hoses were a flying s.o.b. to assemble,
and were the subject of extensive foul language...........and now they
leak..........not all, but which ones do I trust ?? Some I've already
replaced with regular black oil line from NAPA, and you know, it looks
fine. Good, in fact. Used the heavier hose clamps on it, and it Don't
Leak. Tomorrow, I'm going to talk to my buddy at the NAPA machine shop,
and see about putting compression sleeves on new oil lines, like they do
on power steering hoses. Also, on 1st start up, the master relay,
and start relay, from A.C. Spruce both were defective. Talked to 2
different, pleasant ladies so far, both promised new parts immediately,
and still no joy - after 2 weeks. Oil pressure gauge never did work,
and it's back East being fixed, on warranty. CHT & EGT gauges haven't
worked from day 1, and I think I've figured that out...........I'll keep
you posted. Today the tach, (made by UMA) which has worked fine so far,
quit. Dunno why yet, haven't looked at it, but swore at that, too.
Other than that, I'm getting used to the sound of it, and others have
also told me that it's surprisingly quiet - the prop is louder than the
exhaust. Idle is fairly ragged at 1200 rpm or so, but it IS a high
compression engine, and has a pretty hairy cam in it. After warm up, I
ran it briefly up to 4000 rpm today, and it actually wasn't bad. Engine
felt smooth & very strong, soooooooo................work thru all this
other B.S., and we just might have something.
Optimistic Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.gogittum.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Currie <bnb(at)erols.com> |
> Lar, Is the engine fuel injected??? otherwise this pressure seems way too
> high for fuel to Carburator. Shoulr be in the 4 to 6 PSI range. Bob
> Currie
> nice, as well as perform, so I got the steel braid covered oil and fuel
> lines. Fuel lines seem OK so far, and are running at 45 psi.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron or Mary" <ronormar(at)apex.net> |
| Subject: | The FBI is Looking |
In the SE Missouri area near where the Ohio river joins the Mississippi
river this week end, three small planes were buzzing tow boats. They were
reported to be flying at about 30 feet above the ground. They were
described by witnesses on the on the ground as being Kit Planes. Non
aircraft people would not describe an RV or such plane as a Kit Plane
because they look like a GA aircraft from the ground. I don't know if they
were Kolbs but they would have to be something that stood out to a non
aircraft person. One of the tow boat crews said that one of the planes
dropped some substance as it passed over that tow. The FBI now has an
investigation under way to identify these pilots. They will be in serious
trouble when they are caught. I hope everyone thinks before doing such a
stupid thing with the current situation with terrorism that is with us now.
This can only hurt our sport of experimental aircraft flying.
Ron Payne
Gilbertsville. Ky.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cavuontop(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: 447, carb ice, & procedure question |
In a message dated 11/9/01 1:26:06 PM Eastern Standard Time, jbhart(at)ldd.net
writes:
> What I did prove is that if you are flying in very moist air you can
> experience the above effect if you fly at greatly reduced power with a 447
> and that carb heat would be beneficial.
Jack:
You testing is the best work I have seen on the subject of carb icing
in a Rotax. I don't fly in visible moisture with my 582 if I can avoid it,
but I have always taken some comfort from the fact that the distance between
the carb and the case was so short. In the 182 I used to fly the intake
manifold was very very long and the carb hung down low in the cowling. This
is thought to be a less than optimum design for avoiding carb ice because
there is alot of real estate between the carb and the cylinders which gives
the water in the fuel air mixture an opportunity to freeze and then deposit
itself on the inside of the manifold.
In our planes the distance between the carb and the case is
negligible, and with all of the oil in the fuel being spewed around its hard
to see where ice would deposit itself and be able to stick. Obviously, any
ice crystals in the case would be melted by the heat.
Working backwards there is the rubber surface of the carb socket, but
that is pretty smooth, would have a good oil coating on it, and might even
pick up some residual heat from the case.
Working back further yet there is perhaps the bottom and back of the
carb slide. There is undoubtedly some turbulence there as the air passes
around it which might encourage ice to form, but again my suspicion is that
with all the oil around it might not be able to stick.
I agree with you that under the right circumstances our carbs will
super cool the water vapor in the fuel/air mixture as it is pulled through,
but if it goes right into the heated oily case maybe it doesn't matter.
Dunno.
I for one would like to thank you for taking the time to do the test
and report on it. It's good solid work like yours that helps make the sport
safer.
Mark R. Sellers
Kolb Twinstar Mark III
N496BM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
Yes, it uses the Simple Digital Systems EM3-4F fuel injection/crank fired
ignition. (http://www.sdsefi.com) Mostly GM components, with an on-board
computer/programmer. Haven't had much chance to program anything yet, as
run times have been too short.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Currie" <bnb(at)erols.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Update
>
> > Lar, Is the engine fuel injected??? otherwise this pressure seems way
too
> > high for fuel to Carburator. Shoulr be in the 4 to 6 PSI range. Bob
> > Currie
>
> > nice, as well as perform, so I got the steel braid covered oil and fuel
> > lines. Fuel lines seem OK so far, and are running at 45 psi.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
| Subject: | Re: wheels on Mark IIIXtra |
Boo-boo-ed here.................should have said "camber."
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: wheels on Mark IIIXtra
>
> Looking at Vamoose the other day, I noticed that the wheels have a slight
> outward caster, i.e. the tops of the tires tip inward. When I aligned the
> wheels, I couldn't put a 1 piece rod thru the axle journals, cause they
were
> way too much the other way. Had to cut the rod in 1/2, and clamp it back
> together when doing the setup. I know I'm heavy, but don't think it's
THAT
> bad. I'm going to borrow some scales from work tomorrow, and see just how
> much that thing weighs so far. Might be interesting.
> Gogittum Lar.
>
> Larry Bourne
> Palm Springs, Ca.
> Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
> http://www.gogittum.com
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Clay Stuart" <cstuart(at)searnet.com>
> To:
> Subject: Kolb-List: wheels on Mark IIIXtra
>
>
> >
> > I am getting ready to attach the wheels to the cage. In researching the
> > archives, most sources recommend a straight to slightly toe-out
alignment.
> > I was planning to place a straight rod thru the axle fittings to line
the
> > gear up in a parallel alignment. Should I weight the cage before
drilling
> > the holes? One person said that the weight of passengers, fuel, engine
> will
> > cause a slight toe-out to occur. The solid aluminum gear legs that came
> > with this kit seem so stiff that I can't imagine much flex under load,
but
> I
> > guess it is possible.
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Clay Stuart
> > Danville KY
> > 1 yr building
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Keith Singer" <kas(at)wckz.com> |
| Subject: | RE: Kolb-List Digest: 20 Msgs - 11/09/01 |
Fellow Kolb Pilots:
This past Sunday was one of the best ultralight flying mornings we've had in
southern Arizona in many weeks. The weather has started to transition into
Fall/Winter in Tucson, which means it gets cool below in the mornings and
the air actually gets warmer as you fly out of 200 AGL. That's called an
inversion, I believe. Where we fly, that usually means good ultralight
flying weather with little wind and no thermals. In contrast to the summer,
that 503 takes a more healthy bite out of the 55 degree atmosphere. Anyway,
I took my Firestar II up to about 750 feet agl and just cruised this
weekend. I usually do like an up and down course where I'm never moving in
one direction or at one attitute for more than a minute. Sunday, I just
cruised. At about 67 to 69 MPH and about 5300 RPM. The Firestar II cruises
like butter when there is no wind. Perhaps some of my difficulty in getting
the hang of this plane is that I've been flying it like a Quicksilver
Sprint, since that's what I learned to fly ultralights in. The Firestar II,
I believe, prefers to be flown a bit more like a GA plane. Thoughts?
Keith A. Singer
Firestar II 503 133 TT
Tucson, Arizona
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Free Copy of Van's New "THE RV STORY" Video! |
Hey Listers!
In support of the 2001 Email List Fund Raiser, Andy Gold of The Builder's
Bookstore ( http://www.buildersbooks.com/ ) is donating a FREE COPY of the
new edition of Van's "The RV Story" video (VHS) to any Email List Member
making a Contribution of $50 or more!
To take advantage of this wonderful Offer, please include the following
information along with your Contribution, either in the Message Box if you
Contribute on-line, or on a slip of paper if your Contribution is by check
via the USMail:
Van's RV Story Video Offer
$50 or Greater Contributor
[your name]
[your shipping address]
[your City, State and Zip Code]
If you've already made a Contribution in 2001 of $50 or more and would like
to receive the video, please drop me an email ( dralle(at)matronics.com ) and
include the information shown above with the words "Video Offer" in the
Subject line.
Please note that this new edition of "The RV Story" will first be available
in about 8 weeks.
I want to thank Andy Gold and the Builder's Book Store for this *very
generous* Contribution! If you haven't taken a moment to check out The
Builder's Book Store web site yet, you owe it to yourself to have a look (
http://www.buildersbooks.com/ ). Andy has a fabulous selection of
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Again, I would like to thank everyone that has so generously made a
Contribution so far in this year's List Fund Raiser! Your Contributions
make all of the Lists and Services found here possible - period.
Thank you!
Matt Dralle
Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter Volum" <PVolum(at)etsmiami.com> |
| Subject: | The Perils of hand-propping |
http://www.campbells.org/Airplanes/airplanePropChop.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Woody <duesouth(at)iname.com> |
| Subject: | Re: wheels on Mark IIIXtra |
You can spend the next month getting the alignment right but it will all
be wasted in a tenth of a second the first time you come down hard. Don't
be to critical you aren't building a watch.
> In researching the
>archives, most sources recommend a straight to slightly toe-out alignment.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Woody <duesouth(at)iname.com> |
| Subject: | Re: spinning a yarn |
Years ago I heard they wore out real quick. They may be better now.
>
>
>does anyone have experience w/ the Westach "propellor type" airspeed
>indicator?? has a little plastic 6" propellor w/ (i guess) a small
>generator that goes on the wing (or wherever).... wires go to the dash for
>a/s indication. good for up to 60 MPH, the catalog says.... lightweight
>too.
>
>anyone used one of these??
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)sgmmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Sprint -> Firestar |
Keith,
I also flew a Sprint before my first Firestar. The Firestar can be flown
a lot like a Sprint, but only after quite some time to get used to it.
It just won't slow down like the Sprint and also I don't ever fly the
Firestar straight down, like I did in the Sprint.
John Jung
Keith Singer wrote:
>
> Perhaps some of my difficulty in getting
>the hang of this plane is that I've been flying it like a Quicksilver
>Sprint, since that's what I learned to fly ultralights in. The Firestar II,
>I believe, prefers to be flown a bit more like a GA plane. Thoughts?
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kottke, Dwight" <dkottke(at)scherping.carlisle.com> |
| Subject: | Landing Gear Legs |
I am considering making my own legs for my Firestar. Does any one know
what type of aluminum is used (2024,6061,7075)? Also I'm thinking of
shortening the legs a little to strengthen them and also make getting in and
out easier. Any comments?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gdledbetter(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Landing Gear Legs |
Since that should move the wheels toward the tail, this should make the
tendency to tip forward worse under full power. You might want to consider
making some type of right angle bracket to move the wheels forward again but
keeping the short gear.
Gene
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kottke, Dwight" <dkottke(at)scherping.carlisle.com> |
| Subject: | Landing Gear Legs |
Actually my legs run straight out, they do not angle forward.
-----Original Message-----
From: Gdledbetter(at)aol.com [mailto:Gdledbetter(at)aol.com]
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Landing Gear Legs
Since that should move the wheels toward the tail, this should make the
tendency to tip forward worse under full power. You might want to consider
making some type of right angle bracket to move the wheels forward again but
keeping the short gear.
Gene
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Landing Gear Legs |
>
> Actually my legs run straight out, they do not angle forward.
Dwight and Gang:
Doesn't matter. If you shorten the gear legs, in the 3 pt
position the wheels are being moved further aft.
On my Firestar I went the other way. Lengthened the legs to
move the main wheels further forward and to turn the wing up
to a greater angle of attack. Also went to heat treated
4130 tubing for main gear legs.
Check the archives for info on how to fabricate these legs.
I have written about them several times.
I still use the same legs on my MK III. Have been flying
with them on the Firestar and MK III since 1987, many many
landings ago.
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <bwr000(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | long time no see |
Hi Kolb friends,
It's been awhile.
I spent my flying time over the summer working on getting my pilot's
license, and am happy to say that I passed my check ride last week! :)
Getting the license was a ton more work than I ever imagined it would
be. Regulations, radio work, controlled airspace, the ability to fly
into weather in faster, longer range airplanes, etc, all make for a
pretty different sport than wknd fair weather flying in our simple
little ULs. In the few days of new-found relax time after my check
ride, I found myself going through my old Kolb photo album, page by
page, lured to it as if I'd never seen it before. Good Grief that was
fun stuff!
On my Firestar I need to make the steel landing gear that I started 6
months ago, and then it is ready for covering. I will probably be
looking at a new project in the not too distant future, but for now,
I'm looking forward to getting back to my Firestar.
-Ben Ransom
=====
http://mae.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Clay Stuart" <cstuart(at)searnet.com> |
| Subject: | wheels on Mark IIIXtra |
----- Original Message -----
From: Jack & Louise Hart <jbhart(at)ldd.net>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: wheels on Mark IIIXtra
>
> >cause a slight toe-out to occur. The solid aluminum gear legs that came
> >with this kit seem so stiff that I can't imagine much flex under load,
but I
> >guess it is possible.
> >
> >Thanks,
> >Clay Stuart
> >Danville KY
> >1 yr building
> >
> I felt the same way about my FireFly. I made a fixture to hold the wheels
> parallel so that when I drilled the holes through the legs I could be sure
> that the wheels would be straight to each other and with the fuselage
tube.
> But I have been fighting wheel alignment problems for two years, and I
> feel like I am getting there. I have the small four inch plastic wheels
> with the wheel barrow tires, and I use concrete taxiways and runways.
>
> My wheels are pretty well aligned parallel but they are still off in
> camber. Camber is the tough one to adjust. And this is the one they did
> not mention about in my plans. I discovered my tires were wearing on the
> inside and then I realized I had not tested with me in the plane. I
> purchased four 50 pound bags of kids play sand and placed them in the seat
> to represent me in the plane as it was taxiing. Then I checked the camber
> with a torpedo level across the tire in the vertical direction, and sure
> enough I discovered that the tires tipped in toward the fuselage at the
> top. I used a pipe over the axle, blocks etc and bent the out ends of the
> axles down to get the wheels to stand up straight under load.
>
> All of this is quite laborious, because I would have to take the wheel off
> to bend the axle, place the axle on a block, slip the pipe over the axle,
> bend a little, put the wheel back on, put the sand back in the seat, roll
> the plane back ten feet and then roll it forward again, and measure to see
> if I had done any thing. This winter I am going to take up a six by six
> timber some chain, a hydraulic jack, and a protractor level and get them
> bent the same and with more camber.
>
> I am doing pretty well in that I have just over 200 take off and landings
> on these tires, but it is time to rotate the tires on the wheels get a
> better surface on the ground. A few other things that I have found out
> that may be helpful. If you are using wheel barrow shaped tires, keep
them
> pumped up hard. They will roll much better and the wear show patterns
> become apparent much quicker. Also, stay off the brakes while taxiing as
> much as possible. Use your throttle to control taxi speed. When you
apply
> the brakes it increases the leg twist and the amount of toe out, and if
you
> are taxiing it greatly increases tire wear, and it makes it more difficult
> to taxi in cross winds.
>
> Do not let yourself be discouraged if your plane does not handle well on
> the ground at first. Just keep kicking rudder pedals. My FireFly was
> pretty wild on the ground at first and now it realtively a babe in arms.
> The change is due in part to adjustments to the gear, and to gaining
> experience in the plane.
>
> Good Luck,
>
> Jack B. Hart FF004
> Jackson, MO
>
>
> Jack & Louise Hart
> jbhart(at)ldd.net
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jack & Louise Hart <jbhart(at)ldd.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 447, carb ice, & procedure question |
Mark,
Thanks for the complement, but it is undeserved.
I was on a cross country road trip this weekend, and so I had plenty of
time to think about what I had done. I realized that I had not run a
control point to see what the effect would be of running the engine up at
3800 rpm with out the water mister in operation.
I re-set everything up this morning, and I ran the control point first.
The engine took a dip at 3800 rpm with out the water. When I put my hand
down at the air inlet to the tubing that was connected to the carburetor, I
could feel a strong pulse. I took off my ANR head set and put my head down
so I could hear the tube inlet and it was singing like an organ pipe. The
rpm reduction has nothing to do with water vapor, but it was caused by a
standing wave in the ten feet of sump pump tubing. So I have proven
nothing about carb ice.
I am going to build up an over the wing water spray nozzle so I can try to
do the same thing but with the air cleaner attached to the engine to stay
away from the above problem. This is going to take several days to do and
then I will have another crack at it. Since I have experienced what I
thought was carb ice, I want to replicate the process on the ground, so I
can come up with a heat muff to counter act the icing.
Jack B. Hart FF004
Jackson, MO
>
>In a message dated 11/9/01 1:26:06 PM Eastern Standard Time, jbhart(at)ldd.net
>writes:
>
>
>> What I did prove is that if you are flying in very moist air you can
>> experience the above effect if you fly at greatly reduced power with a 447
>> and that carb heat would be beneficial.
>
>Jack:
>
> You testing is the best work I have seen on the subject of carb icing
>in a Rotax. I don't fly in visible moisture with my 582 if I can avoid it,
>but I have always taken some comfort from the fact that the distance between
Jack & Louise Hart
jbhart(at)ldd.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)sgmmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Landing Gear Legs |
Dwight and Group,
Shortening the legs will increase your takeoff roll somewhat. Just
something to consider.
John Jung
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)sgmmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: long time no see |
Ben,
Congratulations and welcome back! It's good to hear from you. Your
contributions to the list have been missed.
John Jung
Ben Ransom wrote:
>
>Hi Kolb friends,
>It's been awhile.
>
>I spent my flying time over the summer working on getting my pilot's
>license, and am happy to say that I passed my check ride last week! :)
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Eugene Zimmerman <eugenezimmerman(at)dejazzd.com> |
| Subject: | Re: long time no see |
Ben Ransom wrote:
>
>
> Hi Kolb friends,
> It's been awhile.
>
> I spent my flying time over the summer working on getting my pilot's
> license, and am happy to say that I passed my check ride last week! :)
> Getting the license was a ton more work than I ever imagined it would
> be. Regulations, radio work, controlled airspace, the ability to fly
> into weather in faster, longer range airplanes, etc, all make for a
> pretty different sport than wknd fair weather flying in our simple
> little ULs. In the few days of new-found relax time after my check
> ride, I found myself going through my old Kolb photo album, page by
> page, lured to it as if I'd never seen it before. Good Grief that was
> fun stuff!
>
> On my Firestar I need to make the steel landing gear that I started 6
> months ago, and then it is ready for covering. I will probably be
> looking at a new project in the not too distant future, but for now,
> I'm looking forward to getting back to my Firestar.
>
> -Ben Ransom
>
> =====
> http://mae.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
Hello Ben,
Mighty good to hear from you again. Thought perhaps we had permanently
lost the ransom. Good to have our ransom back again. Congrats on the new
ticket. Hope to hear from you often again as you get back into your
Kolb. New project???????????
|
_____|_____
*============================R============================*
\ /
\ /
(/---\)
\___/
/ \
() ()
Eugene Zimmerman
http://home.dejazzd.com/eugenezimmerman/My%20Fun.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Sasseville" <sassevilleapiaries(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | handling a folded Firestar |
I folded my firestar and attached the wings with the attach tube as per
plan. After it was folded I noticed it wasn't lined up with the garage door
opening. I stood back to try to figure out how I can get it out the door. I
tried to steer it out, but no luck.
The only way I could move it was to reach in under the wing tips and lift
the whole tail by the wing tips. It seams solid, can this damage the wings?
Paul Sasseville
Firestar II 98% done
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cavuontop(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: 447, carb ice, & procedure question |
In a message dated 11/13/01 1:35:34 PM Eastern Standard Time, jbhart(at)ldd.net
writes:
> So I have proven nothing about carb ice.
>
Jack:
You intellectual honesty is impressive. I will await your results and
I know I speak for everyone who has wondered about this situation when I say
thank you for your efforts.
Mark R. Sellers
Kolb Twinstar Mark III
N496BM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)sgmmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: handling a folded Firestar |
Paul,
That is how I move my plane in and out of it's trailer. It hasn't hurt
the plane yet. But I worry about my back.
John Jung
Paul Sasseville wrote:
>
>The only way I could move it was to reach in under the wing tips and lift
>the whole tail by the wing tips. It seams solid, can this damage the wings?
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: handling a folded Firestar |
| From: | Richard Carlisle <rrcarl(at)concentric.net> |
Thats how I move my Twinstar when its folded...
> From: "Paul Sasseville" <sassevilleapiaries(at)hotmail.com>
> Reply-To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2001 18:16:41 -0500
> To:
> Subject: Kolb-List: handling a folded Firestar
>
>
>
> I folded my firestar and attached the wings with the attach tube as per
> plan. After it was folded I noticed it wasn't lined up with the garage door
> opening. I stood back to try to figure out how I can get it out the door. I
> tried to steer it out, but no luck.
>
> The only way I could move it was to reach in under the wing tips and lift
> the whole tail by the wing tips. It seams solid, can this damage the wings?
>
>
> Paul Sasseville
> Firestar II 98% done
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: handling a folded Firestar |
| From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com |
> Paul Sasseville wrote:
>
>
> >
> >The only way I could move it was to reach in under the wing tips
> and lift
> >the whole tail by the wing tips. It seams solid, can this damage
> the wings?
I have been handing the wings like this for a long time. Yes it is hard
on the back and on the wings. That 1/4" tube that runs from the back of
the main spar to the corner of the trailing edge will break at the spar.
I've fixed it once in both wings. The second time I replaced it with
5/16" and a bracket instead of bending it at the spar attachment point.
I made some handles on each wing out of 5/16" and would you believe the
two rivets in each end of the handle have never loosened up in all these
years?
I try to fly every weekend I get the chance year round in Minnesota. The
garage is my hanger, the field is 7 miles away. The trailer is 8' long,
5' wide and also goes into my garage. It too has held up fine. I may hold
the record for setting up and taking down the Firestar with over 350
flights.
Ralph Burlingame
Original Firestar
14 years flying it
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Berry" <sc_bassman(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: handling a folded Firestar |
Me too!
However, Vic Worthington has an interesting (and painless) loading method. He
loads his Firestar tail first using a winch and home-made trolley and rail system.
I may try that. He has some great photos for anyone else interested.
Randy Berry
Firestar KXP
South Carolina
----- Original Message -----
From: John Jung
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: handling a folded Firestar
Paul,
That is how I move my plane in and out of it's trailer. It hasn't hurt
the plane yet. But I worry about my back.
orer.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerryb <ulflyer(at)airmail.net> |
| Subject: | Re: The FBI is Looking |
The media has all the do-gooders paranoid and in a panic. If they wanted
to do something, they could do it without anybody knowing it. People with
cell phones have gotten 911 crazy. Wasn't Veterans day on this past
weekend. Could have been connected to that, some old veteran wishes being
carried out, their ashes being spread over the river. (By the way, ashes
will do bad things to the prop and fabric of a pusher configuration
aircraft.) Maybe they were part of some formal ceremony do a fly
over. Let's keep level heads level and not rush to jump to conclusions.
jerryb
>
>In the SE Missouri area near where the Ohio river joins the Mississippi
>river this week end, three small planes were buzzing tow boats. They were
>reported to be flying at about 30 feet above the ground. They were
>described by witnesses on the on the ground as being Kit Planes. Non
>aircraft people would not describe an RV or such plane as a Kit Plane
>because they look like a GA aircraft from the ground. I don't know if they
>were Kolbs but they would have to be something that stood out to a non
>aircraft person. One of the tow boat crews said that one of the planes
>dropped some substance as it passed over that tow. The FBI now has an
>investigation under way to identify these pilots. They will be in serious
>trouble when they are caught. I hope everyone thinks before doing such a
>stupid thing with the current situation with terrorism that is with us now.
>This can only hurt our sport of experimental aircraft flying.
>
>Ron Payne
>Gilbertsville. Ky.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
| Subject: | Re: long time no see |
Welcome back, and congratulations. That license is tough, but really worth
it. Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ben Ransom" <bwr000(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: long time no see
>
> Hi Kolb friends,
> It's been awhile.
>
> I spent my flying time over the summer working on getting my pilot's
> license, and am happy to say that I passed my check ride last week! :)
> Getting the license was a ton more work than I ever imagined it would
> be. Regulations, radio work, controlled airspace, the ability to fly
> into weather in faster, longer range airplanes, etc, all make for a
> pretty different sport than wknd fair weather flying in our simple
> little ULs. In the few days of new-found relax time after my check
> ride, I found myself going through my old Kolb photo album, page by
> page, lured to it as if I'd never seen it before. Good Grief that was
> fun stuff!
>
> On my Firestar I need to make the steel landing gear that I started 6
> months ago, and then it is ready for covering. I will probably be
> looking at a new project in the not too distant future, but for now,
> I'm looking forward to getting back to my Firestar.
>
> -Ben Ransom
>
> =====
> http://mae.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
| Subject: | Re: handling a folded Firestar |
On May 23, 2001, Ron Hoyt sent me a picture of his Tailwheel Trolley, that
he had mentioned on the List. Very simple, very effective, easy on the
back, (a real concern for me ! ! ! ) and easy on the plane. How can you be
without one ?? I can send a pic to you, or Ron could, or................if
there's enuf interest, with Ron's permission, I'll publish the pic for
everyone. Or Ron could publish it...........?? Simple thing, like many
good ideas - it works like a small hand truck, with a fork that hooks the
rear wheel, a handle to push down on, to lift the wheel, and pull or push
the airplane. Helpful Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Sasseville" <sassevilleapiaries(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: handling a folded Firestar
>
> I folded my firestar and attached the wings with the attach tube as per
> plan. After it was folded I noticed it wasn't lined up with the garage
door
> opening. I stood back to try to figure out how I can get it out the door.
I
> tried to steer it out, but no luck.
>
> The only way I could move it was to reach in under the wing tips and lift
> the whole tail by the wing tips. It seams solid, can this damage the
wings?
>
>
> Paul Sasseville
> Firestar II 98% done
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Swiderski" <swiderskir(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: handling a folded Firestar |
Paul,
I had the same problem with my old MkII. Except my back wasn't good
enough to do what you are doing. There is a simple & easy solution:
There is a piece of AN hardware of which I can not recall the name, but
it is a nylock nut with 2 tabs 180 degress apart. The tabs have holes for
rivots. For this discussion I shall call this device a tabbed nylock. It
is normally used where you do not have access for a wrench to hold the nut &
you rivot one of these in place, instead of using a nylock nut. Since the
tabs keep it from rotating & not a wrench, the metal casing of the tabbed
nylock is round, not 6-sided.
OK, I 1st removed the nylon with my trusty knife from 2 tabbed
nylocks. Then I rivoted each one on the outboard tip of each folded wing,
with steel rivots, making sure they were in the same plane as the support
tubes that hold the wing, or, so they are centered with the fuselage tube.
Just as a nylock nut is always started from their bottom side, these are as
well, but here they are mounted "upside-down" from standard application, ie,
the flat bottom surface is snugly against the bow tube. Since the nylon is
removed, a bolt can now be threaded into them from the top.
So now we have the wings folded back & 2 tabbed nylocks are rivoted on
the wing tip, across from each other, with the center of the fuselage tube
between them.
Now cut a 1 1/4" or 1 1/2" piece of EMT tubing to a length that extends
about 1/2" past both tabbed nylocks, go to a vise & flatten both ends about
1 1/4", making sure they are flattened in the same plane. Round the corners
& debur so they are friendly to the touch. This piece is the handle.
Center the handle over the tabbed nylocks (making sure the wings are
tight against the fuselage) & mark the location of the right nylock head
onto the flattened surface of the handle. Measure the OD of the round metal
casing of the nylock head & drill a slightly larger hole in the right
flattened section of the handle on the mark you just made. Now place the
hole over the protruding head of the tabbed nylock & mark the left side of
the handle where it aligns with the left tabbed nylock head (again, make
sure the wings are tightly together.) Drill the left side of the handle as
the right. Now your handle should fit on & over both tabbed nylock heads.
If the top of the flattened surface of the handle is not flush with the top
of the tabbed nylock head, then add an appropriately thick washer so the 2
surfaces are flush.
Get a bolt (that fits the tabbed nylock, mine was 1/4 X 20) that has a
knob on one end so you can tighten it by hand. Cut the bolt so it screws
all the way in but does not bottom out on the wing tube. Screw them in &
you now have a handle to man handle your plane from the rear!
Before you put your tools away, drill & tap 2 holes in your handle to
store your knobbed bolts, they will not get lost in the grass & you only
have to store one piece when you tuck it away in your plane. If you don't
have taps, weld 2 nuts onto the handle.
If you think this nifty device will make you thrilled, you are mistaken.
You will later find out that you can now throw away those contentious pins
that secure the wings, the pins that you never can reach & always mess up
your cloths from kneeing on the asphalt or laying in the dirt, those pins
that you welded a 3ft extension onto only to find that you left your
glasses/flashlight at home & can't see the tiny holes they go into, those
pins designed by a deviant & fiendish mind (Dennis?). Then you will not
just be thilled, but you will be estatic to the point of sending me a
donation for this ingenious idea.
They say a picture is worth a 1000 words. In this case it might be
worth even more. Its surprisingly difficult trying to discribe something so
simple just using words.
This will work on any Kolb whose wings extend beyound the tail. I came
up with another device to accomplish the same mission on my Sling;Shot whose
wings are shorter than the tail. I pulled my hair out on that one, started
over several times, but finially came up with something easy & strong &
quick. It would definitely require pictures. I will get around to that
someday.
...Richard Swiderski
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Sasseville" <sassevilleapiaries(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: handling a folded Firestar
>
> I folded my firestar and attached the wings with the attach tube as per
> plan. After it was folded I noticed it wasn't lined up with the garage
door
> opening. I stood back to try to figure out how I can get it out the door.
I
> tried to steer it out, but no luck.
>
> The only way I could move it was to reach in under the wing tips and lift
> the whole tail by the wing tips. It seams solid, can this damage the
wings?
>
>
> Paul Sasseville
> Firestar II 98% done
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Pawneedriver(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | RE: Slingshot for sale |
In a message dated 11/10/2001 10:45:16 PM Eastern Standard Time, Lanceairone
writes:
> From: Kolbguy(at)aol.com
> Subject: Kolb-List: Slingshot wanted
>
>
> Anyone know of a good Slingshot for sale?
>
> Mike Taylor
>
>
> Hi Mike,
> There is a guy in Atlanta that has a beautifully built Slingshot that he is
>
> reluctantly going to sell. I saw it a few weeks ago and if I had the money
>
> I'd jump on it. One of the best built Kolbs I've seen. Its even
> rib-stitched and has smooth, gussetted trailing edges! A lot of hours went
>
> into building this one. The price is right too. $17,900 OBO. He said it
> cost $23K to build. Has a 582, Warpdrive, radio, large tundra tires, and
> hydraulic brakes. Very nice package.
> His name is John Berndsen. He's building a new plane and rarely has time
> to
> fly the Slingshot. Contact him at berndsenco(at)aol.com
>
> Lance
>
>
Hi guys,
I saw this Slingshot at the Kolb factory flyin last year and its a beauty. I
remember Travis and Norm at the factory were very impressed with it. If it
weren't for the fact that I'm in the middle of building a Slingshot, I'd buy
this one in a heart beat. Much better craftsmanship than I'll be able to
produce and I could have saved myself $5,000 and 700 hours of time I don't
have!
Oh well.....
Ralph L.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Sasseville" <sassevilleapiaries(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: handling a folded Firestar |
Yes post the pic.
Paul Sasseville
Firestar II
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: handling a folded Firestar
>
> On May 23, 2001, Ron Hoyt sent me a picture of his Tailwheel Trolley, that
> he had mentioned on the List. Very simple, very effective, easy on the
> back, (a real concern for me ! ! ! ) and easy on the plane. How can you
be
> without one ?? I can send a pic to you, or Ron could,
or................if
> there's enuf interest, with Ron's permission, I'll publish the pic for
> everyone. Or Ron could publish it...........?? Simple thing, like many
> good ideas - it works like a small hand truck, with a fork that hooks the
> rear wheel, a handle to push down on, to lift the wheel, and pull or push
> the airplane. Helpful Lar.
>
> Larry Bourne
> Palm Springs, Ca.
> Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
> http://www.gogittum.com
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Paul Sasseville" <sassevilleapiaries(at)hotmail.com>
> To:
> Subject: Kolb-List: handling a folded Firestar
>
>
>
> >
> > I folded my firestar and attached the wings with the attach tube as per
> > plan. After it was folded I noticed it wasn't lined up with the garage
> door
> > opening. I stood back to try to figure out how I can get it out the
door.
> I
> > tried to steer it out, but no luck.
> >
> > The only way I could move it was to reach in under the wing tips and
lift
> > the whole tail by the wing tips. It seams solid, can this damage the
> wings?
> >
> >
> > Paul Sasseville
> > Firestar II 98% done
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Sasseville" <sassevilleapiaries(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: handling a folded Firestar |
Hi Richard
Great idea, but I have my strobes mounted at that location. Does it need to
be attached at the same plane as the attach tube?
Paul Sasseville
Firestar II 98% done
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Swiderski" <swiderskir(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: handling a folded Firestar
>
> Paul,
>
> I had the same problem with my old MkII. Except my back wasn't good
> enough to do what you are doing. There is a simple & easy solution:
> There is a piece of AN hardware of which I can not recall the name,
but
> it is a nylock nut with 2 tabs 180 degress apart. The tabs have holes for
> rivots. For this discussion I shall call this device a tabbed nylock. It
> is normally used where you do not have access for a wrench to hold the nut
&
> you rivot one of these in place, instead of using a nylock nut. Since
the
> tabs keep it from rotating & not a wrench, the metal casing of the tabbed
> nylock is round, not 6-sided.
> OK, I 1st removed the nylon with my trusty knife from 2 tabbed
> nylocks. Then I rivoted each one on the outboard tip of each folded wing,
> with steel rivots, making sure they were in the same plane as the support
> tubes that hold the wing, or, so they are centered with the fuselage tube.
> Just as a nylock nut is always started from their bottom side, these are
as
> well, but here they are mounted "upside-down" from standard application,
ie,
> the flat bottom surface is snugly against the bow tube. Since the nylon is
> removed, a bolt can now be threaded into them from the top.
> So now we have the wings folded back & 2 tabbed nylocks are rivoted
on
> the wing tip, across from each other, with the center of the fuselage tube
> between them.
> Now cut a 1 1/4" or 1 1/2" piece of EMT tubing to a length that
extends
> about 1/2" past both tabbed nylocks, go to a vise & flatten both ends
about
> 1 1/4", making sure they are flattened in the same plane. Round the
corners
> & debur so they are friendly to the touch. This piece is the handle.
> Center the handle over the tabbed nylocks (making sure the wings are
> tight against the fuselage) & mark the location of the right nylock head
> onto the flattened surface of the handle. Measure the OD of the round
metal
> casing of the nylock head & drill a slightly larger hole in the right
> flattened section of the handle on the mark you just made. Now place the
> hole over the protruding head of the tabbed nylock & mark the left side of
> the handle where it aligns with the left tabbed nylock head (again, make
> sure the wings are tightly together.) Drill the left side of the handle
as
> the right. Now your handle should fit on & over both tabbed nylock heads.
> If the top of the flattened surface of the handle is not flush with the
top
> of the tabbed nylock head, then add an appropriately thick washer so the 2
> surfaces are flush.
> Get a bolt (that fits the tabbed nylock, mine was 1/4 X 20) that has a
> knob on one end so you can tighten it by hand. Cut the bolt so it screws
> all the way in but does not bottom out on the wing tube. Screw them in &
> you now have a handle to man handle your plane from the rear!
> Before you put your tools away, drill & tap 2 holes in your handle to
> store your knobbed bolts, they will not get lost in the grass & you only
> have to store one piece when you tuck it away in your plane. If you don't
> have taps, weld 2 nuts onto the handle.
> If you think this nifty device will make you thrilled, you are
mistaken.
> You will later find out that you can now throw away those contentious pins
> that secure the wings, the pins that you never can reach & always mess up
> your cloths from kneeing on the asphalt or laying in the dirt, those pins
> that you welded a 3ft extension onto only to find that you left your
> glasses/flashlight at home & can't see the tiny holes they go into, those
> pins designed by a deviant & fiendish mind (Dennis?). Then you will not
> just be thilled, but you will be estatic to the point of sending me a
> donation for this ingenious idea.
> They say a picture is worth a 1000 words. In this case it might be
> worth even more. Its surprisingly difficult trying to discribe something
so
> simple just using words.
> This will work on any Kolb whose wings extend beyound the tail. I
came
> up with another device to accomplish the same mission on my Sling;Shot
whose
> wings are shorter than the tail. I pulled my hair out on that one,
started
> over several times, but finially came up with something easy & strong &
> quick. It would definitely require pictures. I will get around to that
> someday.
> ...Richard Swiderski
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Paul Sasseville" <sassevilleapiaries(at)hotmail.com>
> To:
> Subject: Kolb-List: handling a folded Firestar
>
>
>
> >
> > I folded my firestar and attached the wings with the attach tube as per
> > plan. After it was folded I noticed it wasn't lined up with the garage
> door
> > opening. I stood back to try to figure out how I can get it out the
door.
> I
> > tried to steer it out, but no luck.
> >
> > The only way I could move it was to reach in under the wing tips and
lift
> > the whole tail by the wing tips. It seams solid, can this damage the
> wings?
> >
> >
> > Paul Sasseville
> > Firestar II 98% done
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Sasseville" <sassevilleapiaries(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Trailering Firestar 1,600 miles |
I am getting ready to trailer my Firestar 1,600 miles from Maine to Florida
behind my 32' loaded Freightliner. The highways are rough in the northeast
so I want to secure the Firestar well.
I have the Firestar loaded front first in the Haulmark trailer, the main
wheel chocked and straped, the tail is on a post as per plans. In a past
post someone said that they think there is too much weight on the boom tube
with the wings attached. I placed a rachet strap across the cocpit close to
the panel and when I rachet it down I can see that it takes weight off the
other end (the tail and boomtube)
The only other thing that moves is the wing leading edges will sway. I am
thinking of securing them also?
Paul Sasseville
Firestar II
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: handling a folded Firestar |
| From: | Richard Carlisle <rrcarl(at)concentric.net> |
Thats a great idea. I especially like the idea of losing the wing retaining
pins. I think I'll do this when I recover the plane...
Thanks...Ross
> From: "Richard Swiderski" <swiderskir(at)earthlink.net>
> Reply-To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2001 23:01:54 -0500
> To:
> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: handling a folded Firestar
>
>
>
> Paul,
>
> I had the same problem with my old MkII. Except my back wasn't good
> enough to do what you are doing. There is a simple & easy solution:
> There is a piece of AN hardware of which I can not recall the name, but
> it is a nylock nut with 2 tabs 180 degress apart. The tabs have holes for
> rivots. For this discussion I shall call this device a tabbed nylock. It
> is normally used where you do not have access for a wrench to hold the nut &
> you rivot one of these in place, instead of using a nylock nut. Since the
> tabs keep it from rotating & not a wrench, the metal casing of the tabbed
> nylock is round, not 6-sided.
> OK, I 1st removed the nylon with my trusty knife from 2 tabbed
> nylocks. Then I rivoted each one on the outboard tip of each folded wing,
> with steel rivots, making sure they were in the same plane as the support
> tubes that hold the wing, or, so they are centered with the fuselage tube.
> Just as a nylock nut is always started from their bottom side, these are as
> well, but here they are mounted "upside-down" from standard application, ie,
> the flat bottom surface is snugly against the bow tube. Since the nylon is
> removed, a bolt can now be threaded into them from the top.
> So now we have the wings folded back & 2 tabbed nylocks are rivoted on
> the wing tip, across from each other, with the center of the fuselage tube
> between them.
> Now cut a 1 1/4" or 1 1/2" piece of EMT tubing to a length that extends
> about 1/2" past both tabbed nylocks, go to a vise & flatten both ends about
> 1 1/4", making sure they are flattened in the same plane. Round the corners
> & debur so they are friendly to the touch. This piece is the handle.
> Center the handle over the tabbed nylocks (making sure the wings are
> tight against the fuselage) & mark the location of the right nylock head
> onto the flattened surface of the handle. Measure the OD of the round metal
> casing of the nylock head & drill a slightly larger hole in the right
> flattened section of the handle on the mark you just made. Now place the
> hole over the protruding head of the tabbed nylock & mark the left side of
> the handle where it aligns with the left tabbed nylock head (again, make
> sure the wings are tightly together.) Drill the left side of the handle as
> the right. Now your handle should fit on & over both tabbed nylock heads.
> If the top of the flattened surface of the handle is not flush with the top
> of the tabbed nylock head, then add an appropriately thick washer so the 2
> surfaces are flush.
> Get a bolt (that fits the tabbed nylock, mine was 1/4 X 20) that has a
> knob on one end so you can tighten it by hand. Cut the bolt so it screws
> all the way in but does not bottom out on the wing tube. Screw them in &
> you now have a handle to man handle your plane from the rear!
> Before you put your tools away, drill & tap 2 holes in your handle to
> store your knobbed bolts, they will not get lost in the grass & you only
> have to store one piece when you tuck it away in your plane. If you don't
> have taps, weld 2 nuts onto the handle.
> If you think this nifty device will make you thrilled, you are mistaken.
> You will later find out that you can now throw away those contentious pins
> that secure the wings, the pins that you never can reach & always mess up
> your cloths from kneeing on the asphalt or laying in the dirt, those pins
> that you welded a 3ft extension onto only to find that you left your
> glasses/flashlight at home & can't see the tiny holes they go into, those
> pins designed by a deviant & fiendish mind (Dennis?). Then you will not
> just be thilled, but you will be estatic to the point of sending me a
> donation for this ingenious idea.
> They say a picture is worth a 1000 words. In this case it might be
> worth even more. Its surprisingly difficult trying to discribe something so
> simple just using words.
> This will work on any Kolb whose wings extend beyound the tail. I came
> up with another device to accomplish the same mission on my Sling;Shot whose
> wings are shorter than the tail. I pulled my hair out on that one, started
> over several times, but finially came up with something easy & strong &
> quick. It would definitely require pictures. I will get around to that
> someday.
> ...Richard Swiderski
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Paul Sasseville" <sassevilleapiaries(at)hotmail.com>
> To:
> Subject: Kolb-List: handling a folded Firestar
>
>
>
>>
>> I folded my firestar and attached the wings with the attach tube as per
>> plan. After it was folded I noticed it wasn't lined up with the garage
> door
>> opening. I stood back to try to figure out how I can get it out the door.
> I
>> tried to steer it out, but no luck.
>>
>> The only way I could move it was to reach in under the wing tips and lift
>> the whole tail by the wing tips. It seams solid, can this damage the
> wings?
>>
>>
>> Paul Sasseville
>> Firestar II 98% done
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ed mills <edgmills(at)yahoo.com> |
Kolb Drivers
Have any of you done much,or any flying without the
wing gap seal in place?
If you have, what or how much difference did it make?
Any changes in the flying or landing characteristic?
Any input is appreciated.
Thanks
Ed
Dalas, Tx
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
| Subject: | Re: handling a folded Firestar |
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Sasseville" <sassevilleapiaries(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: handling a folded Firestar
>
> Yes post the pic.
>
> Paul Sasseville
> Firestar II
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com>
> To:
> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: handling a folded Firestar
>
>
> >
> > On May 23, 2001, Ron Hoyt sent me a picture of his Tailwheel Trolley,
that
> > he had mentioned on the List. Very simple, very effective, easy on the
> > back, (a real concern for me ! ! ! ) and easy on the plane. How can you
> be
> > without one ?? I can send a pic to you, or Ron could,
> or................if
> > there's enuf interest, with Ron's permission, I'll publish the pic for
> > everyone. Or Ron could publish it...........?? Simple thing, like
many
> > good ideas - it works like a small hand truck, with a fork that hooks
the
> > rear wheel, a handle to push down on, to lift the wheel, and pull or
push
> > the airplane. Helpful Lar.
> >
> > Larry Bourne
> > Palm Springs, Ca.
> > Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
> > http://www.gogittum.com
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Paul Sasseville" <sassevilleapiaries(at)hotmail.com>
> > To:
> > Subject: Kolb-List: handling a folded Firestar
> >
> >
> >
> > >
> > > I folded my firestar and attached the wings with the attach tube as
per
> > > plan. After it was folded I noticed it wasn't lined up with the garage
> > door
> > > opening. I stood back to try to figure out how I can get it out the
> door.
> > I
> > > tried to steer it out, but no luck.
> > >
> > > The only way I could move it was to reach in under the wing tips and
> lift
> > > the whole tail by the wing tips. It seams solid, can this damage the
> > wings?
> > >
> > >
> > > Paul Sasseville
> > > Firestar II 98% done
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WGeorge737(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | long time no see |
<>
Hi Ben,
Congratulations on your accomplishment! The list has missed your
contributions. Hope you get the Firestar cranking soon. Welcome back.
Bill George
Mk-3 - Verner 1400 - Powerfin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <bwr000(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Trailering Firestar 1,600 miles |
Even if you tighten a strap across the cage front near the panel enf to
raise the tail, the weight of the wings is still on the little tube
that goes through the boom tube. I've seen that little tube acquire
slight bends from the weight of the wings on it over rough roads. It
might be easy and worthwhile to just get some pads on the floor under
the wings near where they attach to the tail boom, especially if on a
long trip where you don't need to get the plane in and out a lot.
These could also double in the purpose you mention of keeping the
leading (and trailing) edges from moving, which is a good idea too.
-Ben Ransom
--- Paul Sasseville wrote:
>
>
> I am getting ready to trailer my Firestar 1,600 miles from Maine to
> Florida
> behind my 32' loaded Freightliner. The highways are rough in the
> northeast
> so I want to secure the Firestar well.
>
> I have the Firestar loaded front first in the Haulmark trailer, the
> main
> wheel chocked and straped, the tail is on a post as per plans. In a
> past
> post someone said that they think there is too much weight on the
> boom tube
> with the wings attached. I placed a rachet strap across the cocpit
> close to
> the panel and when I rachet it down I can see that it takes weight
> off the
> other end (the tail and boomtube)
> The only other thing that moves is the wing leading edges will sway.
> I am
> thinking of securing them also?
>
> Paul Sasseville
>
> Firestar II
>
>
>
> [####-------------------------9.1%-----------------------------]
>
>
>
>
>
>
=====
http://mae.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Johann G. Johannsson" <johann-g(at)tal.is> |
| Subject: | Ground adj. Ivo prop. |
Hi List members.
I do have a question for all who are using the ground adjustable Ivo
prop.
I have been using the 64" propeller on my Firestar II, and my adjustment
has been in the neutral position of the adjusting rod, which gave me
around 6500 rpm at max take-off.
I adjusted the rod with 1 1/2 turn to the left, i.e.. rod comes out.
This gives me around 6200 rpm on climb out.
Is this what you have been doing to increase pitch?
The weather has been wet and windy lately, so I have not been able to do
any adjustments and testing it with the engine running. Only working
inside the trailer.
Thank you in advance.
Johann G.
Iceland.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Johann G. Johannsson" <johann-g(at)tal.is> |
| Subject: | Re: handling a folded Firestar |
Hi Paul.
I use this method every time I load and off-load my Firestar II in my
enclosed trailer. I does not seem to be a problem. I wish I had use the
method of making handles in the wing tip bow. A great idea.
Regards,
Johann G.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Sasseville" <sassevilleapiaries(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: handling a folded Firestar
>
> I folded my firestar and attached the wings with the attach tube as per
> plan. After it was folded I noticed it wasn't lined up with the garage
door
> opening. I stood back to try to figure out how I can get it out the door.
I
> tried to steer it out, but no luck.
>
> The only way I could move it was to reach in under the wing tips and lift
> the whole tail by the wing tips. It seams solid, can this damage the
wings?
>
>
> Paul Sasseville
> Firestar II 98% done
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Russell" <jr(at)rometool.com> |
| Subject: | Re: handling a folded Firestar |
Hi all, when I trailer mine I use a padded saddle,
it's a half moon shape that fits the tail boom, it has
weldments extending down with 2- 8" dia wheels
opposing each other, rolls great, attaching a steering handle
between the wheels, it can be manuvered quite well, wings folded
or unfolded.
John
----- Original Message -----
From: "Johann G. Johannsson" <johann-g(at)tal.is>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: handling a folded Firestar
>
> Hi Paul.
> I use this method every time I load and off-load my Firestar II in my
> enclosed trailer. I does not seem to be a problem. I wish I had use the
> method of making handles in the wing tip bow. A great idea.
>
> Regards,
> Johann G.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Paul Sasseville" <sassevilleapiaries(at)hotmail.com>
> To:
> Subject: Kolb-List: handling a folded Firestar
>
>
>
> >
> > I folded my firestar and attached the wings with the attach tube as per
> > plan. After it was folded I noticed it wasn't lined up with the garage
> door
> > opening. I stood back to try to figure out how I can get it out the
door.
> I
> > tried to steer it out, but no luck.
> >
> > The only way I could move it was to reach in under the wing tips and
lift
> > the whole tail by the wing tips. It seams solid, can this damage the
> wings?
> >
> >
> > Paul Sasseville
> > Firestar II 98% done
>
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Swiderski" <swiderskir(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: handling a folded Firestar |
Paul,
I originally mounted them about 6-8" above the center of the fuselage,
which was a more convenient height for me. I worked great as a handle, but
if when trailering or jostelling around, the wings manage to swivel, then
they will do so using the handle as a hinge point. This allows the
possibility of the wings slipping off the support tubes. If the handle (&
therefore the hinge line) is in the plane of the support tubes, then the
wings will have no movement relative to the support tubes, ie, they will
hinge on the tubes as well.
So to answer your queation, yes you can, but keep it as close as
possible. The wings should be strapped anyway during trailering to prevent
any movement/abrasion. ...Richard Swiderski
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Sasseville" <sassevilleapiaries(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: handling a folded Firestar
>
> Hi Richard
>
> Great idea, but I have my strobes mounted at that location. Does it need
to
> be attached at the same plane as the attach tube?
>
> Paul Sasseville
>
> Firestar II 98% done
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Richard Swiderski" <swiderskir(at)earthlink.net>
> To:
> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: handling a folded Firestar
>
>
>
> >
> > Paul,
> >
> > I had the same problem with my old MkII. Except my back wasn't good
> > enough to do what you are doing. There is a simple & easy solution:
> > There is a piece of AN hardware of which I can not recall the name,
> but
> > it is a nylock nut with 2 tabs 180 degress apart. The tabs have holes
for
> > rivots. For this discussion I shall call this device a tabbed nylock.
It
> > is normally used where you do not have access for a wrench to hold the
nut
> &
> > you rivot one of these in place, instead of using a nylock nut. Since
> the
> > tabs keep it from rotating & not a wrench, the metal casing of the
tabbed
> > nylock is round, not 6-sided.
> > OK, I 1st removed the nylon with my trusty knife from 2 tabbed
> > nylocks. Then I rivoted each one on the outboard tip of each folded
wing,
> > with steel rivots, making sure they were in the same plane as the
support
> > tubes that hold the wing, or, so they are centered with the fuselage
tube.
> > Just as a nylock nut is always started from their bottom side, these are
> as
> > well, but here they are mounted "upside-down" from standard application,
> ie,
> > the flat bottom surface is snugly against the bow tube. Since the nylon
is
> > removed, a bolt can now be threaded into them from the top.
> > So now we have the wings folded back & 2 tabbed nylocks are rivoted
> on
> > the wing tip, across from each other, with the center of the fuselage
tube
> > between them.
> > Now cut a 1 1/4" or 1 1/2" piece of EMT tubing to a length that
> extends
> > about 1/2" past both tabbed nylocks, go to a vise & flatten both ends
> about
> > 1 1/4", making sure they are flattened in the same plane. Round the
> corners
> > & debur so they are friendly to the touch. This piece is the handle.
> > Center the handle over the tabbed nylocks (making sure the wings are
> > tight against the fuselage) & mark the location of the right nylock head
> > onto the flattened surface of the handle. Measure the OD of the round
> metal
> > casing of the nylock head & drill a slightly larger hole in the right
> > flattened section of the handle on the mark you just made. Now place
the
> > hole over the protruding head of the tabbed nylock & mark the left side
of
> > the handle where it aligns with the left tabbed nylock head (again, make
> > sure the wings are tightly together.) Drill the left side of the handle
> as
> > the right. Now your handle should fit on & over both tabbed nylock
heads.
> > If the top of the flattened surface of the handle is not flush with the
> top
> > of the tabbed nylock head, then add an appropriately thick washer so the
2
> > surfaces are flush.
> > Get a bolt (that fits the tabbed nylock, mine was 1/4 X 20) that has
a
> > knob on one end so you can tighten it by hand. Cut the bolt so it
screws
> > all the way in but does not bottom out on the wing tube. Screw them in
&
> > you now have a handle to man handle your plane from the rear!
> > Before you put your tools away, drill & tap 2 holes in your handle
to
> > store your knobbed bolts, they will not get lost in the grass & you only
> > have to store one piece when you tuck it away in your plane. If you
don't
> > have taps, weld 2 nuts onto the handle.
> > If you think this nifty device will make you thrilled, you are
> mistaken.
> > You will later find out that you can now throw away those contentious
pins
> > that secure the wings, the pins that you never can reach & always mess
up
> > your cloths from kneeing on the asphalt or laying in the dirt, those
pins
> > that you welded a 3ft extension onto only to find that you left your
> > glasses/flashlight at home & can't see the tiny holes they go into,
those
> > pins designed by a deviant & fiendish mind (Dennis?). Then you will not
> > just be thilled, but you will be estatic to the point of sending me a
> > donation for this ingenious idea.
> > They say a picture is worth a 1000 words. In this case it might be
> > worth even more. Its surprisingly difficult trying to discribe
something
> so
> > simple just using words.
> > This will work on any Kolb whose wings extend beyound the tail. I
> came
> > up with another device to accomplish the same mission on my Sling;Shot
> whose
> > wings are shorter than the tail. I pulled my hair out on that one,
> started
> > over several times, but finially came up with something easy & strong &
> > quick. It would definitely require pictures. I will get around to that
> > someday.
> > ...Richard Swiderski
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Paul Sasseville" <sassevilleapiaries(at)hotmail.com>
> > To:
> > Subject: Kolb-List: handling a folded Firestar
> >
> >
> >
> > >
> > > I folded my firestar and attached the wings with the attach tube as
per
> > > plan. After it was folded I noticed it wasn't lined up with the garage
> > door
> > > opening. I stood back to try to figure out how I can get it out the
> door.
> > I
> > > tried to steer it out, but no luck.
> > >
> > > The only way I could move it was to reach in under the wing tips and
> lift
> > > the whole tail by the wing tips. It seams solid, can this damage the
> > wings?
> > >
> > >
> > > Paul Sasseville
> > > Firestar II 98% done
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Swiderski" <swiderskir(at)earthlink.net> |
Ed,
Check the archives on this. It reduces performance significantly.
----- Original Message -----
From: "ed mills" <edgmills(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: Gap seal
>
> Kolb Drivers
> Have any of you done much,or any flying without the
> wing gap seal in place?
> If you have, what or how much difference did it make?
> Any changes in the flying or landing characteristic?
> Any input is appreciated.
> Thanks
> Ed
> Dalas, Tx
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Trailering Firestar 1,600 miles |
Hi Ben and Gang:
Welcome home!
Last year I trailered my MK III from Munco Lake, BC, to
Oshkosh, WI, and finally to Titus, AL. Total Distance was
well over 4,000 miles, which included the Alaska Highway,
and across Canada to Winnepeg, and south to OSH. Most of
the time the roads were much less than satisfactory.
I had a 24' (inside length) inclosed trailer. Made some
simple mounts on each side wall for each wing. A single tie
down strap for each wing (well cushioned) was ample. I
blocked the main gear wheels on three sides, front, rear,
and outside. Made a simple pulpit with a cushioned saddle
from 2X4 studs and screwed it into the trailer deck. The
height was sufficient to take the majority of the load off
the tailwheel but not enough to raise the tailwheel off the
deck. I also blocked the tailwheel. The cradle for the
tailboom was placed about two or three feet aft the "H"
brace. It had a cushioned cap (piece of 2X4 and carpet) to
secure it in place. I also used tiedown straps on the main
spar attach points to secure the main fuselage (keep it from
bouncing out of the main gear wheel blocks. The aircraft
survived a long and arduous trip in the back of that
trailer. Never had to adjust anything from the day we
loaded it at Muncho Lake until it was unloaded in Titus,
Alabama.
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "H MITCHELL" <mitchmnd(at)msn.com> |
Hello Ed,
I forgot to bring my flappy gap seal to the airport (32 miles from home)
one day last year. I thought it probably would not make a great difference in performance
but just to be sure I flew it close to the ground for about half the
length of our strip. She flew OK but was not up to her usual performance. She
was manageable but there was a definite difference. We went around the pattern
a couple of times but I landed and put her back
in her hangar because she was a different airplane and I had no idea about her
stall characteristics, glide ratio etc. We were both happier when I later Velcroed
my .032 6066-T6 Al. gap cover in place.
Duane the plane, Tallahassee, FL FireFly SN 007, 447, Ivo, > 105 Hrs
----- Original Message -----
From: ed mills
Subject: Kolb-List: Gap seal
Kolb Drivers
Have any of you done much,or any flying without the
wing gap seal in place?
If you have, what or how much difference did it make?
Any changes in the flying or landing characteristic?
Any input is appreciated.
Thanks
Ed
Dalas, Tx
=
=
=
=
=
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Sasseville" <sassevilleapiaries(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Trailering Firestar 1,600 miles |
Hay Gang
Thanks for the good info and support.
Paul Sasseville
Firestar II 98% done
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Non kolb Related... |
| From: | Richard Carlisle <rrcarl(at)concentric.net> |
A web site for the terminally paranoid....
http://www.biodefenseusa.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Possum <possums(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Trailering Firestar 1,600 miles |
I still think Steven Green has the best looking dolly
"to ensure that his Kolb MK III was safely
supported when folded for transport inside of an enclosed trailer".
I think you can still see it at:
http://gtalexander.home.att.net/kolb_trailer.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Woody <duesouth(at)iname.com> |
| Subject: | Re: handling a folded Firestar |
I didn't like grabbing the wings by the fabric on my Twinstar either.
What I did was remove the fabric from the end of the wing trailing edge
tube where the aileron attaches and now when I want to move it I place 2
pieces of 1" tube in there and use them for a handle. The handles are now
about shoulder height and are not that difficult to move the plane
around. Simple light and easily retrofittable. When we built 'Andy's wings
and the club planes wings we incorporated the same idea but the tubes stay
in the trailing edge tube but can be pulled out for ground handling and
retracted for flight. On my new plane I have taken the idea a step further
and beefed up the spar to wing tip brace and added the pull out handles to
there. I now can pick it up like a wheel barrow and move it around.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ZepRep251(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: handling a folded Firestar |
For steering my firestar folded, I welded two small loops on the horizontal
tube of the tail wheel parallel with the ground.Then made a 4ft rod with a
loop handle,welded a 3in long (approx) piece across the other end ,like a "T"
and welded a small hook on each end of that piece with tight enough curve so
that you can push or pull and steerG. Aman FS2117.8hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Clay Stuart" <cstuart(at)searnet.com> |
| Subject: | tailwheel assembly-Mark IIIXtra |
I have been unable to get the solid aluminum post to seat all the way into
the tail wheel assembly. I have been able to drive it past the hole in the
assembly (a little over an inch). I believe it should seat a bit over 2".
Of course, I can't get the rod back out now. The seating reference marks I
made on the rod rubbed off and I can't tell exactly how deep it is seated.
Does anyone know the original length of the solid aluminum rod-17"? I
thought of trying to heat the outside assembly and maybe the rod could be
driven deeper, but I dont' think there is any problem. I just don't want to
drill the hole in the rod and be just barely inside the length of the rod.
How much of the rod should be exposed? I would guess 10-11". The tailwheel
is about even with the back of the rudder, but the drawing shows it about
2/3rds of the way back on the rudder.
Thanks,
Clay Stuart
Danville KY
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Berry" <sc_bassman(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Trailering Firestar 1,600 miles |
If I am understanding what you mean by "leading edges swaying", you may want to
consider the following simple and effective device to curb that effect as well.
Perhaps some of you already know about it.
You will notice that when at rest the ends of the folded wings (the tubes which
extend forward below the prop) are hanging parallel to each other
under the boom tube about a foot or so apart. Cut a 2" x 4" piece of lumber long
enough to span about 2-4" past the end of each tube. Then cut holes in the
2x4 with a holesaw slightly larger than the width of each leading edge tube.
Cut the holes at about the same width as the leading edges sit naturally at rest.
When you finish, you should have a board with two holes in it approximately a foot
apart and centered on the wide side of the 2x4. Then, simply slip the 2x4
over the ends of both leading edge tubes when they are folded. Does a good job
at keeping them from swaying individually. Although they may rock slightly
in unison, they will at least be somewhat dampened
while riding in the trailer. You may want to consider some padding between the
boom tube and each wing just rear of the installed 2x4.
Incidentally, I trailered my Firestar from Maine to South Carolina last year using
the above device and some triple folded 4" foam under the wings near the tailwheel
... to take some of the load off the tailwheel and wing attach points
and help absorb road shocks. Attached a chain under the
seat with bolts in the holes where the struts normally attach at top of each landing
gear ... put chocks under the front wheels ... pulled chain taut with a
winch ... hooked a small chain from rear of trailer to the tailwheel, just loosely
taut (in case of sudden stop). About 1100 miles ... no problem!
----- Original Message -----
From: Paul Sasseville
Subject: Kolb-List: Trailering Firestar 1,600 miles
The only other thing that moves is the wing leading edges will sway. I am
download : http://explorer.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Clay Stuart" <cstuart(at)searnet.com> |
I devised what I think is an accurate way to level the wings before drilling
the mounting holes. I hung 4-2x4s vertically from the ceiling down to about
2-3 inches above the approximate bottom of the wings, just out past the lift
strut attachment. I drilled 3/8" x 6" long holes from the bottom up into
the boards. I then placed a T-nut into the hole (I think it is called a
T-nut, it is a cylindrical nut with a flange and spikes to drive into wood).
I then placed a couple of screws to catch the flange and hold the nut in
place since the spikes alone won't hold the weight of the wing (guess how I
know that). I then used some 2x2's to form the bottom of the "U". Using 5"
long bolts (I used 1/4") through the 2x2s and into the nuts in the 2x4s, I
could then adjust the four bolts to level the wings. I made the 2x2s almost
7 feet long to give adequate room to align the wings perpendicular to the
fuselage.
I had found a used Robo-Laser from Amazon.com last year and it was very
helpful in the wing alignment. I still used strings to make sure the
trailing edges were in line with each other, but the laser was invaluable to
get the exact leveling. It was time consuming, but the bolts could be
adjusted until everything lined up perfectly. I then set the dihedral just
a little higher than called for in the manual, 2" instead of 1" as called
for, after reading the archives. Then I used the laser to make sure the
dihedral was equal.
Hope someone finds this helpful in their building.
Clay Stuart
Danville KY
Mark IIIXtra
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | b young <byoung(at)brigham.net> |
"kolb-list(at)matronics.com"
| Subject: | kolb landin g gear |
<<<<<<<<<<<< I am considering making my own legs for my
Firestar. Does any one know
what type of aluminum is used (2024,6061,7075)? Also I'm
thinking of
shortening the legs a little to strengthen them and also
make getting in and
out easier. Any comments?
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
not sure about the firestar but i believe the mark III uses
the 7075 t6.... if you shorten the gear there is possible
a couple problems....
1 a narrower stance may make it a bit harder to handle on
the ground. and less stable in cross wind.
2 shorter in the front will make it have less incidence in
the wing on takeoff and will require a faster roll to
develop enough lift. ( in a way this may be a plus.... it
wouldn't be able to come off the ground at near stall ) but
it would diminish the short field takeoff performance
3 the tail wheel may hit too soon on full stall landing then
the main gear would plop down and increase the landing
loads instead of flexing the longer gear legs.
my 2 cents worth
boyd
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
| Subject: | Oil Lines &............... |
I mentioned the other day that my sexy (cheapskate) oil lines were
leaking. Today I picked up the replacements from my VW machinist buddy
at the local NAPA store, and.................WOW ! ! ! Shoulda oughta
done that to begin with. He made them up with black, 350 psi working
pressure hose, and swaged ends, like on power steering hoses, that just
happen to match the 37 degree AN flares that we use. All 4 hoses, in 2
different sizes cost just $35.00, they look good - better, I think, than
that chintzy cheap braid. Hate to admit a boo-boo, but maybe it'll help
someone else avoid the same mistake. Tomorrow, I'm looking into new
valve covers, since I can't seem to make these clip-on stamped steel
covers stop leaking. Go to
http://www.pulsaraircraft.com and click on the "Power Plants"
link................ that neat new engine of theirs ( 118 hp ) sure
looks like what's on Vamoose, ( VW ) but with a really neat geared
redrive. Light, too. Hmmmmm............. Last, non-Kolb,
but good stuff................last Friday, I linked up with Verizon DSL,
and kicked that worthless msn out. My, my, my, what a difference.
Adios, and good riddance, msn ! ! ! The DSL is making an immediate,
huge difference in the way I'm using my computer, and also, ( knock wood
), it hasn't locked up in almost a week ! ! ! What a wonderful
toy............web surfing is actually fun now.
Happy Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.gogittum.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Guy Swenson" <guys(at)rrt.net> |
| Subject: | Re: tailwheel assembly-Mark IIIXtra |
Clay,
Once assembled, you should have eleven (11) inches of aluminum rod exposed
on the tail wheel assembly. At least that's what mine is. Hope this helps.
Guy S.
MK III Xtra
----- Original Message -----
From: "Clay Stuart" <cstuart(at)searnet.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: tailwheel assembly-Mark IIIXtra
>
> I have been unable to get the solid aluminum post to seat all the way into
> the tail wheel assembly. I have been able to drive it past the hole in
the
> assembly (a little over an inch). I believe it should seat a bit over 2".
> Of course, I can't get the rod back out now. The seating reference marks
I
> made on the rod rubbed off and I can't tell exactly how deep it is seated.
> Does anyone know the original length of the solid aluminum rod-17"? I
> thought of trying to heat the outside assembly and maybe the rod could be
> driven deeper, but I dont' think there is any problem. I just don't want
to
> drill the hole in the rod and be just barely inside the length of the rod.
> How much of the rod should be exposed? I would guess 10-11". The
tailwheel
> is about even with the back of the rudder, but the drawing shows it about
> 2/3rds of the way back on the rudder.
>
> Thanks,
> Clay Stuart
> Danville KY
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Sasseville" <sassevilleapiaries(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Trailering Firestar 1,600 miles |
Thanks Randy
The foam idea is great. I have an old foam mattress that I was going to take
to the dump, but now I will cut it up and use it under the wing and between
the wings and the boom. The best of all I like the price.
Paul Sasseville
Firestar II 98% done
----- Original Message -----
From: "Randy Berry" <sc_bassman(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Trailering Firestar 1,600 miles
>
> If I am understanding what you mean by "leading edges swaying", you may w> ant
to consider the following simple and effective device to curb that ef> fect
as well. Perhaps some of you already know about it.
>
> You will notice that when at rest the ends of the folded wings (the tubes> which
extend forward below the prop) are hanging parallel to each other
> under the boom tube about a foot or so apart. Cut a 2" x 4" piece of lum> ber
long enough to span about 2-4" past the end of each tube. Then cut h> oles
in the 2x4 with a holesaw slightly larger than the width of each lea> ding edge
tube. Cut the holes at about the same width as the leading edg> es sit naturally
at rest.
>
> When you finish, you should have a board with two holes in it approximate> ly
a foot apart and centered on the wide side of the 2x4. Then, simply s> lip the
2x4 over the ends of both leading edge tubes when they are folded> . Does
a good job at keeping them from swaying individually. Although t> hey may rock
slightly in unison, they will at least be somewhat dampened
> while riding in the trailer. You may want to consider some padding betwe> en
the boom tube and each wing just rear of the installed 2x4.
>
> Incidentally, I trailered my Firestar from Maine to South Carolina last y> ear
using the above device and some triple folded 4" foam under the wings> near
the tailwheel ... to take some of the load off the tailwheel and wi> ng attach
points and help absorb road shocks. Attached a chain under the
> seat with bolts in the holes where the struts normally attach at top of e> ach
landing gear ... put chocks under the front wheels ... pulled chain t> aut with
a winch ... hooked a small chain from rear of trailer to the tai> lwheel,
just loosely taut (in case of sudden stop). About 1100 miles ...> no problem!
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Paul Sasseville
> To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Kolb-List: Trailering Firestar 1,600 miles
>
> The only other thing that moves is the wing leading edges will sway. I am
> download : http://explorer.msn.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Neilsen" <neilsenr(at)state.mi.us> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil Lines &............... |
I have been using high quality rubber hoses with a internal braiding on barbed
fittings with no leakage but my working pressures never went above 60 lbs. My
new engine has a larger oil pump so it could cause me problems?
My original VW came with the stamped steel valve covers and never leaked but they
were glued on everywhere with a permitex like material. When I removed them
for valve adjustments they started leaking and I couldn't completely fix it.
I replaced the covers with cast aluminum spring clip covers and this helped but
not completely. My new engine has the bolt on cover and I think I'm going to
have similar problems. After the 25 Hr. retorquing of the head bolts I'm planning
to permitex the covers on. One VW guy indicated the bolt on covers can cause
the rocker arm studs to pull out if you use the dual valve springs and torque
the valve cover bolts a bit too much.
The engine looks like a VW with a reduction drive but the photo isn't real good
so? The price is close to a Rotax so what's the advantage? The horsepower is
more but the proven reliability is? I do like the option for other than Rotax.
I got my new flywheel yesterday so maybe I will be running my new engine this weekend.
Rick Neilsen
Reduction drive VW powered MKIII
>>> biglar(at)gogittum.com 11/15/01 12:43AM >>>
I mentioned the other day that my sexy (cheapskate) oil lines were
leaking. Today I picked up the replacements from my VW machinist buddy
at the local NAPA store, and.................WOW ! ! ! Shoulda oughta
done that to begin with. He made them up with black, 350 psi working
pressure hose, and swaged ends, like on power steering hoses, that just
happen to match the 37 degree AN flares that we use. All 4 hoses, in 2
different sizes cost just $35.00, they look good - better, I think, than
that chintzy cheap braid. Hate to admit a boo-boo, but maybe it'll help
someone else avoid the same mistake. Tomorrow, I'm looking into new
valve covers, since I can't seem to make these clip-on stamped steel
covers stop leaking. Go to
http://www.pulsaraircraft.com and click on the "Power Plants"
link................ that neat new engine of theirs ( 118 hp ) sure
looks like what's on Vamoose, ( VW ) but with a really neat geared
redrive. Light, too. Hmmmmm............. Last, non-Kolb,
but good stuff................last Friday, I linked up with Verizon DSL,
and kicked that worthless msn out. My, my, my, what a difference.
Adios, and good riddance, msn ! ! ! The DSL is making an immediate,
huge difference in the way I'm using my computer, and also, ( knock wood
), it hasn't locked up in almost a week ! ! ! What a wonderful
toy............web surfing is actually fun now.
Happy Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.gogittum.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ed mills <edgmills(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Center of wing gap seal |
Just wanted to thank everyone for the input on my
question. Especially you Don. I should have known
after all of the years that I have known you that you
would know and understand the technical aspect of
this.
It was unanimous, "Must have gap seal"!!!
Sure glad I didn't throw it out with all of the rest
of the left-over parts???
Thanks again
Ed
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil Lines &............... |
I don't think (??) the oil pump is the problem.................I got the
aftermarket pressure relief springs, and they're way too strong. I'm going
to try stock springs this weekend, and see what happens. On the leaks,
I'm not sure yet. I'll talk to my machinist buddy today, and to Indio Dune
Buggy, and see what they all say. Hate to glue both sides of the gasket
solid, but if that's what it takes, then that's what it'll get. Thought
that Pulsar engine would help give credibility to us
VW'ers.................and didja see where they're advertising a 1200 hr TBO
?? I don't expect that much, but it would be nice. Good Luck this
weekend ! ! ! Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Neilsen" <neilsenr(at)state.mi.us>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Oil Lines &...............
>
> I have been using high quality rubber hoses with a internal braiding on
barbed fittings with no leakage but my working pressures never went above 60
lbs. My new engine has a larger oil pump so it could cause me problems?
>
> My original VW came with the stamped steel valve covers and never leaked
but they were glued on everywhere with a permitex like material. When I
removed them for valve adjustments they started leaking and I couldn't
completely fix it. I replaced the covers with cast aluminum spring clip
covers and this helped but not completely. My new engine has the bolt on
cover and I think I'm going to have similar problems. After the 25 Hr.
retorquing of the head bolts I'm planning to permitex the covers on. One VW
guy indicated the bolt on covers can cause the rocker arm studs to pull out
if you use the dual valve springs and torque the valve cover bolts a bit too
much.
>
> The engine looks like a VW with a reduction drive but the photo isn't real
good so? The price is close to a Rotax so what's the advantage? The
horsepower is more but the proven reliability is? I do like the option for
other than Rotax.
>
> I got my new flywheel yesterday so maybe I will be running my new engine
this weekend.
>
> Rick Neilsen
> Reduction drive VW powered MKIII
>
> >>> biglar(at)gogittum.com 11/15/01 12:43AM >>>
>
> I mentioned the other day that my sexy (cheapskate) oil lines were
> leaking. Today I picked up the replacements from my VW machinist buddy
> at the local NAPA store, and.................WOW ! ! ! Shoulda oughta
> done that to begin with. He made them up with black, 350 psi working
> pressure hose, and swaged ends, like on power steering hoses, that just
> happen to match the 37 degree AN flares that we use. All 4 hoses, in 2
> different sizes cost just $35.00, they look good - better, I think, than
> that chintzy cheap braid. Hate to admit a boo-boo, but maybe it'll help
> someone else avoid the same mistake. Tomorrow, I'm looking into new
> valve covers, since I can't seem to make these clip-on stamped steel
> covers stop leaking. Go to
> http://www.pulsaraircraft.com and click on the "Power Plants"
> link................ that neat new engine of theirs ( 118 hp ) sure
> looks like what's on Vamoose, ( VW ) but with a really neat geared
> redrive. Light, too. Hmmmmm............. Last, non-Kolb,
> but good stuff................last Friday, I linked up with Verizon DSL,
> and kicked that worthless msn out. My, my, my, what a difference.
> Adios, and good riddance, msn ! ! ! The DSL is making an immediate,
> huge difference in the way I'm using my computer, and also, ( knock wood
> ), it hasn't locked up in almost a week ! ! ! What a wonderful
> toy............web surfing is actually fun now.
> Happy Lar.
>
> Larry Bourne
> Palm Springs, Ca.
> Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
> http://www.gogittum.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Swiderski" <swiderskir(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Trailering Firestar 1,600 miles |
Listers,
Everyone stores & transports their Kolbs differently. I built my
trailer to accomodate all existing Kolbs. The basic floor plan was inspired
by Dennis Souder's open air trailer & I just put a floor, wall & roof around
it. The plane goes in tail 1st.
This is my way to secure the front of the folded wings: I use two !8"
long & 6" thick pieces of firm foam that I wrap around the fuselage tube,
under the prop. A bungee cord, around the outside, holds them in place &
the cord is compressed into the foam below the outside surface. The wings
then rest on this foam. 2 more bungee cords pull each wing snug against
this foam pad.
I store the SlingShot with the flaperons pointing up. I keep them from
bouncing by tying each aileron horn with one of those small 3/16" bungees.
To secure the tail feathers from rubbing, before I fold them up, I lay a
1 1/2 inch thick piece of foam (about 2ft square) on each horizontal stab &
hanging over the elevators about 8". With another trusty bungee cord in
hand, I fold up one side, hook the bottom cable attatchment with one end of
the bungee, fold up the other side, wrap the bungee around the frount of the
vertical stab & hook the other end of the bungee on the orher bottom cable
attatchment. I find this easier & more secure than the PVC pipe wrapped
with foam insulation method I used earlier. On my SlingShot, the wings are
held off enough from the folded tail as to not be in danger of rubbing on
each other. If this is not the case with your plane, then the traditional
PVC tubing method would be better.
To take the weight off the tailwheel, I designed a truss about 2ft
behind the prop, from which I hang a 2" nylon web that goes under the tube &
back up to the truss. A heavy duty ratchet pulls the tail up enough to lift
the tail up a few inches, yet still leaving the wheel on the floor.
To keep the tail from swaying, I built a device that holds the wings
together without using those AWEFULL clips that are hidden from reach unless
you are a skinny orangatan. It also serves as a handle to lift the tail or
pull & push the plane. It also is used to secure the tail from swaying in
the trailer. Two 1" straps go from it to the wall, holding it sideways &
forward. the straps are the kind that work like airline seat belts, where
you just pull them snug & push for quick release.
These same straps secure the front of the plane, pull it forward & keep
it from swaying. They attach from the front wing root attachment on top of
the fuselage, down & forward to the trailer wall.
The main wheels are on a 5" dropped floor. The rear of the tires are up
against the main floor. Chocks are in front of the tires & when the ramp is
lifted up, it holds the chocks in place.
The main wheels are only about 4" above the ground, so the 5ft ramp
(Garage door spring assisted) is almost flat when its down. The tailwheel
is 5" above the mains, so there is no problem of the bottom of the wings
scraping the ground & the plane can be pulled in with one hand. The
tailwheel has a full swivel which makes steering & manuvering a breeze.
Wing struts have a foam mount on the wall. "Little Joe" the wing
holder, hangs next to the struts. I named him after my flying buddy who has
been replaced by it. It is a single aluminum telescoping pole with a tip
that fits into the tube under the wing, the one that holds the the wing
during transit. I simply walk the wing out, rotate it, place it in
position, then put the top of Little Joe into the wing holder tube. (The
bottom of Little Joe is pointed toward the tail & out toward the wing tip,
causing the wing to fall forward & inward, of which it can do neither, thus
all is stable. If there is a breeze, then the tail is aways pointed into it
at this time.) I then walk around & put the pin into the front root
attachment & then put the strut on, all by myself. I don't miss Big Joe at
all, especially since he wiggled the wing when I tried to put the pin in.
This is how I do it. Hope some of you can use some of these ideas.
...Richard Swiderski
----- Original Message -----
From: "Randy Berry" <sc_bassman(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Trailering Firestar 1,600 miles
>
> If I am understanding what you mean by "leading edges swaying", you may w> ant
to consider the following simple and effective device to curb that ef> fect
as well. Perhaps some of you already know about it.
>
> You will notice that when at rest the ends of the folded wings (the tubes> which
extend forward below the prop) are hanging parallel to each other
> under the boom tube about a foot or so apart. Cut a 2" x 4" piece of lum> ber
long enough to span about 2-4" past the end of each tube. Then cut h> oles
in the 2x4 with a holesaw slightly larger than the width of each lea> ding edge
tube. Cut the holes at about the same width as the leading edg> es sit naturally
at rest.
>
> When you finish, you should have a board with two holes in it approximate> ly
a foot apart and centered on the wide side of the 2x4. Then, simply s> lip the
2x4 over the ends of both leading edge tubes when they are folded> . Does
a good job at keeping them from swaying individually. Although t> hey may rock
slightly in unison, they will at least be somewhat dampened
> while riding in the trailer. You may want to consider some padding betwe> en
the boom tube and each wing just rear of the installed 2x4.
>
> Incidentally, I trailered my Firestar from Maine to South Carolina last y> ear
using the above device and some triple folded 4" foam under the wings> near
the tailwheel ... to take some of the load off the tailwheel and wi> ng attach
points and help absorb road shocks. Attached a chain under the
> seat with bolts in the holes where the struts normally attach at top of e> ach
landing gear ... put chocks under the front wheels ... pulled chain t> aut with
a winch ... hooked a small chain from rear of trailer to the tai> lwheel,
just loosely taut (in case of sudden stop). About 1100 miles ...> no problem!
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Paul Sasseville
> To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Kolb-List: Trailering Firestar 1,600 miles
>
> The only other thing that moves is the wing leading edges will sway. I am
> download : http://explorer.msn.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Swiderski" <swiderskir(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Trailering Firestar 1,600 miles |
In the earlier post of forgot to include the detail of chocking the
tires during wing folding. I did not think of this step ahead of time, but
rather learned it after the fact!
I put it into the text below.
> Listers,
>
> Everyone stores & transports their Kolbs differently. I built my
> trailer to accomodate all existing Kolbs. The basic floor plan was
inspired
> by Dennis Souder's open air trailer & I just put a floor, wall & roof
around
> it. The plane goes in tail 1st.
> This is my way to secure the front of the folded wings: I use two !8"
> long & 6" thick pieces of firm foam that I wrap around the fuselage tube,
> under the prop. A bungee cord, around the outside, holds them in place &
> the cord is compressed into the foam below the outside surface. The wings
> then rest on this foam. 2 more bungee cords pull each wing snug against
> this foam pad.
> I store the SlingShot with the flaperons pointing up. I keep them
from
> bouncing by tying each aileron horn with one of those small 3/16" bungees.
> To secure the tail feathers from rubbing, before I fold them up, I lay
a
> 1 1/2 inch thick piece of foam (about 2ft square) on each horizontal stab
&
> hanging over the elevators about 8". With another trusty bungee cord in
> hand, I fold up one side, hook the bottom cable attatchment with one end
of
> the bungee, fold up the other side, wrap the bungee around the frount of
the
> vertical stab & hook the other end of the bungee on the orher bottom cable
> attatchment. I find this easier & more secure than the PVC pipe wrapped
> with foam insulation method I used earlier. On my SlingShot, the wings
are
> held off enough from the folded tail as to not be in danger of rubbing on
> each other. If this is not the case with your plane, then the traditional
> PVC tubing method would be better.
> To take the weight off the tailwheel, I designed a truss about 2ft
> behind the prop, from which I hang a 2" nylon web that goes under the tube
&
> back up to the truss. A heavy duty ratchet pulls the tail up enough to
lift
> the tail up a few inches, yet still leaving the wheel on the floor.
> To keep the tail from swaying, I built a device that holds the wings
> together without using those AWEFULL clips that are hidden from reach
unless
> you are a skinny orangatan. It also serves as a handle to lift the tail
or
> pull & push the plane. It also is used to secure the tail from swaying in
> the trailer. Two 1" straps go from it to the wall, holding it sideways &
> forward. the straps are the kind that work like airline seat belts, where
> you just pull them snug & push for quick release.
> These same straps secure the front of the plane, pull it forward &
keep
> it from swaying. They attach from the front wing root attachment on top
of
> the fuselage, down & forward to the trailer wall.
> The main wheels are on a 5" dropped floor. The rear of the tires are
up
> against the main floor. Chocks are in front of the tires & when the ramp
is
> lifted up, it holds the chocks in place.
> The main wheels are only about 4" above the ground, so the 5ft ramp
> (Garage door spring assisted) is almost flat when its down. The tailwheel
> is 5" above the mains, so there is no problem of the bottom of the wings
> scraping the ground & the plane can be pulled in with one hand. The
> tailwheel has a full swivel which makes steering & manuvering a breeze.
> Wing struts have a foam mount on the wall. "Little Joe" the wing
> holder, hangs next to the struts. I named him after my flying buddy who
has
> been replaced by it. It is a single aluminum telescoping pole with a tip
> that fits into the tube under the wing, the one that holds the the wing
> during transit. I simply walk the wing out, rotate it, place it in
> position, then put the top of Little Joe into the wing holder tube. (The
bottom of Little Joe is pointed toward the tail & out toward the wing tip,
> causing the wing to fall forward & inward, of which it can do neither,
thus all is stable. If there is a breeze, then the tail is aways pointed
into it
> at this time.) I then walk around & put the pin into the front root
> attachment & then put the strut on, all by myself. I don't miss Big Joe
at
> all, especially since he wiggled the wing when I tried to put the pin in.
During the wing folding & unfolding , it is paramont to chock the front &
back of both tires.
> This is how I do it. Hope some of you can use some of these ideas.
> ...Richard Swiderski
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | What They're Saying... |
Hi Listers,
The 2001 List Fund Raiser is currently underway and lot's of people have
been making their Contribution and saying a lot of very nice things about
the Lists and what they're daily-dose of Forum means to them! I've
included a few more of the Lister comments below.
Won't you take a moment to support your Lists this month? Its fast and
easy by making a Secure Credit Card Contribution at the following web site:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Or by sending a personal check Contribution to:
Matronics Email Lists
c/o Matt Dralle
PO Box 347
Livermore CA 94551-0347
For Complete information on the upgrades and improvements the Lists and
servers have undergone this year, have a look at this URL:
http://www.matronics.com/searching/getmsg_script.cgi?INDEX=113171908?KEYS=asdfasdf?LISTNAME=RV?HITNUMBER=4?SERIAL=1942094803?SHOWBUTTONS=NO
Here's few more of the comments I've been receiving about what the Lists
mean to its members:
======================
Not only a great way to help each other out, it's been
a wonderful way to meet new friends. - Fred H.
The List is invaluable to me...
- Russell W.
I absolutely love your Lists...
- Scott C.
...you are tying all the builders together.
- David A.
The Lists continue to be an invaluable source of
information. - Jeff O.
I look forward to reading my Email every day...
- Harvey S.
They are invaluable resources to builders of all
skill levels. - Kevin H.
...another year of excellent service.
- Terry W.
Way cool setup.
- Chuck R.
...source of information, inspiration, support,
and camaraderie. - Carlos S.
I'd be lost without them...
- Jeff O.
======================
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Woody <duesouth(at)iname.com> |
| Subject: | Re: tailwheel assembly-Mark IIIXtra |
Do not drive the rod in farther. Do your best to take it out and find
out why it would not slide in easy. You will thank me if you ever break it
and have to install another one (Same rule applies to the gear legs. Make
sure they slide in nice) A rule of thumb I have used is to have at least
the dia of the bolt to the edge of the part. Anymore than this does not
give you any extra strength. One inch is more than enough from a strength
stand point.
>
>I have been unable to get the solid aluminum post to seat all the way into
>the tail wheel assembly. I have been able to drive it past the hole in the
>assembly (a little over an inch). I believe it should seat a bit over 2".
>Of course, I can't get the rod back out now. The seating reference marks I
>made on the rod rubbed off and I can't tell exactly how deep it is seated.
>Does anyone know the original length of the solid aluminum rod-17"? I
>thought of trying to heat the outside assembly and maybe the rod could be
>driven deeper, but I dont' think there is any problem. I just don't want to
>drill the hole in the rod and be just barely inside the length of the rod.
>How much of the rod should be exposed? I would guess 10-11". The tailwheel
>is about even with the back of the rudder, but the drawing shows it about
>2/3rds of the way back on the rudder.
>
>Thanks,
>Clay Stuart
>Danville KY
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron or Mary" <ronormar(at)apex.net> |
This is on a FireStar with the new type control stick with two sets of
pulleys with two pulleys in each set. One set on each side of the aileron
torque tube. I ran the elevator cables today. I ran the upper cable on the
control stick to the inner pulley on the right side. When moving the stick
to the full left position, the cables are tight. Then moving the stick to
the full right position, the cables loosen up quite a bit. If I snug them up
with the stick in the right position they become very tight with the stick
in the left position. I guess what I am trying to say is that there is quite
a bit of tension change when moving the stick from right to left. I talked
to Kolb about this and they said that I was the only one to question this
and they had not thought about it. They did not have any suggestions as to
cable tension settings. Anyone have any suggestions?
Ron Payne
Gilbertsville, Ky.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Thumb" <Bill-Jo(at)prodigy.net> |
| Subject: | Re: tailwheel assembly-Mark IIIXtra |
Hi clay
You need to get that rod out and do a little grinding on the area
where
it is binding. If you ever bend it and have to replace it you will have a
big problem. On mine there was some weld up in there so I had to grind a
little off the rod. As you start to insert the rod you can see the mark on
the rod where it hits what ever in the tube. Then take your grinder and
grind off a little. It wont take much. And believe me now is the time to do
it. Let me know how you make out. You want it in there as far as you can
get it.I will measure mine if you wan to
know how much is sticking out.
Keep in touch Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: "Clay Stuart" <cstuart(at)searnet.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: tailwheel assembly-Mark IIIXtra
>
> I have been unable to get the solid aluminum post to seat all the way into
> the tail wheel assembly. I have been able to drive it past the hole in
the
> assembly (a little over an inch). I believe it should seat a bit over 2".
> Of course, I can't get the rod back out now. The seating reference marks
I
> made on the rod rubbed off and I can't tell exactly how deep it is seated.
> Does anyone know the original length of the solid aluminum rod-17"? I
> thought of trying to heat the outside assembly and maybe the rod could be
> driven deeper, but I dont' think there is any problem. I just don't want
to
> drill the hole in the rod and be just barely inside the length of the rod.
> How much of the rod should be exposed? I would guess 10-11". The
tailwheel
> is about even with the back of the rudder, but the drawing shows it about
> 2/3rds of the way back on the rudder.
>
> Thanks,
> Clay Stuart
> Danville KY
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Builder's Bookstore" <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com> |
| Subject: | new Aeroelectric Connection now in stock |
Hurray...
Revision 10s of Aeroelectric Connection are now in stock, arriving late
yesterday afternoon.
For those unfamiliar, this is the absolutely definitive guide to planning and
setting up the electrical system in your Kolb.
Last night, all of about 100 backorders were finally packed and were shipped this
morning. (didn't get much sleep last night) Thank you to
everyone who has been waiting, some since late June, for your patience.
For all others who have been waiting for the new revision to be actually
completed and available, they now are, we've got plenty more in stock, and
delivery is back to normal.
Andy
Builder's Bookstore
http://www.buildersbooks.com
in the "Electrical and Avionics" section of the on-line catalog
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Christopher John Armstrong" <Tophera(at)centurytel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: tailwheel assembly-Mark IIIXtra |
> You need to get that rod out and do a little grinding on the area
> where
> it is binding. If you ever bend it and have to replace it you will have a
> big problem. On mine there was some weld up in there so I had to grind a
> little off the rod. As you start to insert the rod you can see the mark on
> the rod where it hits what ever in the tube. Then take your grinder and
> grind off a little. It wont take much. And believe me now is the time to
do
> it. Let me know how you make out. You want it in there as far as you can
> get it.I will measure mine if you wan to
> know how much is sticking out.
I took a reamer and cleaned up the inside of the tubing, there is some scale
in there from the welds, once it is out of the way the tail gear leg slides
in and out very easily. I wouldn't grind on the gear leg itself, just clean
up the inside of the tail tube.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Clay Stuart" <cstuart(at)searnet.com> |
| Subject: | tailwheel assembly |
>> You need to get that rod out and do a little grinding on the area
>> where it is binding. If you ever bend it and have to replace it you will
have a
>> big problem. On mine there was some weld up in there so I had to grind a
>> little off the rod. As you start to insert the rod you can see the mark
on
>> the rod where it hits what ever in the tube. Then take your grinder and
>> grind off a little. It wont take much. And believe me now is the time to
>>do it. Let me know how you make out. You want it in there as far as you
can
>> get it.I will measure mine if you wan to
>> know how much is sticking out.
>I took a reamer and cleaned up the inside of the tubing, there is some
scale
>in there from the welds, once it is out of the way the tail gear leg slides
>in and out very easily. I wouldn't grind on the gear leg itself, just
clean
>up the inside of the tail tube.
Thanks for everyone's advice on the difficulty in getting the rod into
place. I had no trouble getting it to go to place inside the TAILPOST on
the airframe. I started the aluminum rod into the tailwheel assembly even
though it was very tight, thinking I could use a mallet to drive it to
place. I was able to drive it past the hole in the tailwheel assembly, so I
think it will be OK. If I ever break the rod, I will probably have to take
it to a machine shop and have the rod drilled out of the tailwheel
receptacle. At this point, I think I would do more damage trying to remove
the rod from the female sleeve in the tailwheel assembly.
Speaking of the tailwheel that comes with the Mark IIIXtra, I am not certain
of its feature of being able to caster and be used for steering on the
ground. It appears that when there is very little weight on the wheel, it
is allowed to freely caster and be disconnected to the steering arms. It
seems well designed and sturdy, but I am not certain why the castering
function is built-in.
Thanks again
Clay Stuart
Danville KY
10 months building Mark IIIXtra-just past the start of the quick build page
in the manual
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Guy Swenson" <guys(at)rrt.net> |
| Subject: | Re: tailwheel assembly |
Clay,
The castering wheel should stay locked until it is rotated approximately 30
degrees in each direction,(with or without weight on it) at that point it
should release and allow full castering.
Guy S.
MKIII Xtra - Painting
----- Original Message -----
From: "Clay Stuart" <cstuart(at)searnet.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: tailwheel assembly
>
> >> You need to get that rod out and do a little grinding on the area
> >> where it is binding. If you ever bend it and have to replace it you
will
> have a
> >> big problem. On mine there was some weld up in there so I had to grind
a
> >> little off the rod. As you start to insert the rod you can see the mark
> on
> >> the rod where it hits what ever in the tube. Then take your grinder and
> >> grind off a little. It wont take much. And believe me now is the time
to
> >>do it. Let me know how you make out. You want it in there as far as you
> can
> >> get it.I will measure mine if you wan to
> >> know how much is sticking out.
>
> >I took a reamer and cleaned up the inside of the tubing, there is some
> scale
> >in there from the welds, once it is out of the way the tail gear leg
slides
> >in and out very easily. I wouldn't grind on the gear leg itself, just
> clean
> >up the inside of the tail tube.
>
>
> Thanks for everyone's advice on the difficulty in getting the rod into
> place. I had no trouble getting it to go to place inside the TAILPOST on
> the airframe. I started the aluminum rod into the tailwheel assembly even
> though it was very tight, thinking I could use a mallet to drive it to
> place. I was able to drive it past the hole in the tailwheel assembly, so
I
> think it will be OK. If I ever break the rod, I will probably have to
take
> it to a machine shop and have the rod drilled out of the tailwheel
> receptacle. At this point, I think I would do more damage trying to
remove
> the rod from the female sleeve in the tailwheel assembly.
>
> Speaking of the tailwheel that comes with the Mark IIIXtra, I am not
certain
> of its feature of being able to caster and be used for steering on the
> ground. It appears that when there is very little weight on the wheel, it
> is allowed to freely caster and be disconnected to the steering arms. It
> seems well designed and sturdy, but I am not certain why the castering
> function is built-in.
>
> Thanks again
> Clay Stuart
> Danville KY
> 10 months building Mark IIIXtra-just past the start of the quick build
page
> in the manual
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chuck Davis <cdavis215(at)earthlink.com> |
I did some disassembly & inspection on a Firefly I purchased, and now
have the classic question of how does it all go back together.
The plane has a 500 lb BRS softpack mounted in the center gap under the
gap seal. I have the BRS manual with the Firefly specific mounting
instructions. However, they do not address the relationship between the
BRS mounting rails and the wing leading edge spar.
The two mounting rails overlap with the leading edge spar. There are
holes in the mounting rails and the top leading edge spar that line up,
and a bolt and castle nut that hold the rails in a fixed position
against the spar. The question is, do the hold the rails go over or
under the leading edger spars? I have them under, for two reasons:
1. Seems to disrupt the airfoil shape less, and
2. It seems a more solid mounting for holding the chute pack down
(attached to the plane) if the rocket is ever fired.
Thanks.
Chuck Davis
FireFly 028
Full Enclosure, 3B IVO, Big Tires
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Roland Lambert" <marotod(at)mindspring.com> |
Does anyone know the distance or degrees the elevator should travel up
or down,or is it just nulling the flight surface out with the bottom of
the stick vertical on a Firestar?
Roland Lambert
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron or Mary" <ronormar(at)apex.net> |
| Subject: | For FireStar Drivers |
I would like to know who has the new style control stick and elevator cable
set up. This is the one that has two sets of pulleys with two pulleys in
each set. One set mounted on each side of the aileron torque tube. The old
style has all four pulleys on the same shaft. I can not fiqure out how a
person can adjust the elevator cable tension with this new set up. The
cable tension changes as you move the stick from side to side. I asked Kolb
but did not get an answer.
Ron Payne
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jon Croke" <Jon(at)joncroke.com> |
| Subject: | kolbpilot picture |
Hey
Take a look at Scott Trask on the front page of www.kolbpilot.com ...
Something to help us Yankees remember what warm weather was like earlier
this year...
Jon
near Green Bay
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jack & Louise Hart <jbhart(at)ldd.net> |
| Subject: | Re: High Performance Legal Ultralight Kit |
Scott,
Have you or anyone else seen this document for the FireFly, or know where
to get a copy of it?
Jack B. Hart FF004
Jackson, MO
>
>This can rather easily be a legal 254 pound FAR part 103 ultralight
>which does not require either
>a license or a medical to fly and has folding wings ( compound style
>like a bird )
>see attached pics of folded finished Firefly along with current pics of
>project on wheels..
>The Firefly is a to my knowledge the only ultralight to be signed off on
>by the FAA
>based on formula as opposed to observed performance. Basically the FAA
>issued
>formulas in 1982 for field use in calculating whether the planes would
>exceed performance
>limits. By observing the strict letter of the law, Kolb found some
>loopholes allowing
>this plane to meet formula requirements and exceed 55 knots full
>throttle level flight by a significant amount..
>
>Scott Perkins or 678-290-0507
>Marietta, GA
>
>
Jack & Louise Hart
jbhart(at)ldd.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "H MITCHELL" <mitchmnd(at)msn.com> |
Chuck Davis et al,
After looking over BRS's inelegant design of the FireFly softpack parachute installation
I consigned much of the hardware they supplied to my scrap metal bin
and engineered my own. I will be pleased to send you a set of the sketches showing
how my installation was done. It was dead weight tested to 4 Gs and also
saved me another pound.
If you will send me a self addressed, stamped envelope I will sent you a
copy of these sketches.
Duane the plane in Tallahassee, FL, FireFly SN 007, 447, 2B Ivo, 109.3 Hrs.
----- Original Message -----
From: Chuck Davis
Subject: Kolb-List: BRS
I did some disassembly & inspection on a Firefly I purchased, and now
have the classic question of how does it all go back together.
The plane has a 500 lb BRS softpack mounted in the center gap under the
gap seal. I have the BRS manual with the Firefly specific mounting
instructions. However, they do not address the relationship between the
BRS mounting rails and the wing leading edge spar.
The two mounting rails overlap with the leading edge spar. There are
holes in the mounting rails and the top leading edge spar that line up,
and a bolt and castle nut that hold the rails in a fixed position
against the spar. The question is, do the hold the rails go over or
under the leading edger spars? I have them under, for two reasons:
1. Seems to disrupt the airfoil shape less, and
2. It seems a more solid mounting for holding the chute pack down
(attached to the plane) if the rocket is ever fired.
Thanks.
Chuck Davis
FireFly 028
Full Enclosure, 3B IVO, Big Tires
=
=
=
=
=
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: kolbpilot picture |
| From: | Richard Carlisle <rrcarl(at)nhvt.net> |
It was short sleeve weather here in Southern NH today. We'll probably get
snow tomorrow.
Ross
> From: "Jon Croke" <Jon(at)joncroke.com>
> Reply-To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Sun, 18 Nov 2001 11:28:41 -0800
> To:
> Subject: Kolb-List: kolbpilot picture
>
>
> Hey
>
> Take a look at Scott Trask on the front page of www.kolbpilot.com ...
>
> Something to help us Yankees remember what warm weather was like earlier
> this year...
>
> Jon
> near Green Bay
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Swiderski" <swiderskir(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: High Performance Legal Ultralight Kit |
Jack,
This formula is part of the FAR 103 document. Technically it allows a
craft that is faster than 63mph to still qualify. Richard Swiderski
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jack & Louise Hart" <jbhart(at)ldd.net>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: High Performance Legal Ultralight Kit
>
> Scott,
>
> Have you or anyone else seen this document for the FireFly, or know where
> to get a copy of it?
>
> Jack B. Hart FF004
> Jackson, MO
>
>
> >
> >This can rather easily be a legal 254 pound FAR part 103 ultralight
> >which does not require either
> >a license or a medical to fly and has folding wings ( compound style
> >like a bird )
> >see attached pics of folded finished Firefly along with current pics of
> >project on wheels..
>
>
> >The Firefly is a to my knowledge the only ultralight to be signed off on
> >by the FAA
> >based on formula as opposed to observed performance. Basically the FAA
> >issued
> >formulas in 1982 for field use in calculating whether the planes would
> >exceed performance
> >limits. By observing the strict letter of the law, Kolb found some
> >loopholes allowing
> >this plane to meet formula requirements and exceed 55 knots full
> >throttle level flight by a significant amount..
> >
> >Scott Perkins or 678-290-0507
> >Marietta, GA
> >
> >
>
>
> Jack & Louise Hart
> jbhart(at)ldd.net
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "H MITCHELL" <mitchmnd(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Florida Gulf Coast beach Run |
Friday afternoon several of my friends from South central Georgia arrived at the
Airport on Ochlockonee Bay (40 Mi S of Tallahassee). After we refueled our planes
and got ready for our big Saturday flight we all went to one participant's
beach house for a sumptuous boiled shrimp feed Fri night.
Saturday morning at 9 AM five Challengers, one Kitfox and one Kolb(me) departed
for a small field north of Mexico Beach, about 100 miles West along the coast.
I have driven this area many times but I am new to X country flying and was
stunned by the beauty of the aerial view. When we landed
at Sandy Creek fly-in community we were greeted by John Hauck, Mike Highsmith,
Richard Lovell and several others who were going to join us for the flight back
to Ochlockonee Bay. Most of the guys rode into town for a bar-b-que lunch. When
they returned we all topped off and headed back.
While I watched from 2,500 Ft the rest of the gang, now totaling a full dozen planes,
flew along the beaches at altitudes varying from 25 to 200 feet all the
way back to our starting point. They pointed out game fish, sharks, bikinis and
other beach dwellers
all the way home. What a flight. The only mechanical hitch occurred when
a rubber coupling between the carburetor and intake manifold began leaking on a
Jabiru powered Titian Tornado that had joined our group. He just parked his plane
and boarded his partner's plane and stayed with us all the way.
That night we all ate at a famous seafood restaurant near the airport then separated
to stay with several of the gang who own property in the area.
Most of us were up before dawn to see the meteor shower and were then ready to
start for our respective home fields early Sunday.
I will never forget this weekend.
Duane the plane in Tallahassee, FL, FireFly SN 007, 447, IVO, 109 Hrs
----- Original Message -----
From: Jack & Louise Hart
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: High Performance Legal Ultralight Kit
Scott,
Have you or anyone else seen this document for the FireFly, or know where
to get a copy of it?
Jack B. Hart FF004
Jackson, MO
>
>This can rather easily be a legal 254 pound FAR part 103 ultralight
>which does not require either
>a license or a medical to fly and has folding wings ( compound style
>like a bird )
>see attached pics of folded finished Firefly along with current pics of
>project on wheels..
>The Firefly is a to my knowledge the only ultralight to be signed off on
>by the FAA
>based on formula as opposed to observed performance. Basically the FAA
>issued
>formulas in 1982 for field use in calculating whether the planes would
>exceed performance
>limits. By observing the strict letter of the law, Kolb found some
>loopholes allowing
>this plane to meet formula requirements and exceed 55 knots full
>throttle level flight by a significant amount..
>
>Scott Perkins or 678-290-0507
>Marietta, GA
>
>
Jack & Louise Hart
jbhart(at)ldd.net
=
=
=
=
=
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "H MITCHELL" <mitchmnd(at)msn.com> |
Forgot to list my postal address: Duane Mitchell
6551 Crooked Creek Rd
Tallahassee, FL 32311
----- Original Message -----
From: H MITCHELL
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: BRS
Chuck Davis et al,
After looking over BRS's inelegant design of the FireFly softpack parachute installation
I consigned much of the hardware they supplied to my scrap metal bin
and engineered my own. I will be pleased to send you a set ofthe sketches showing
how my installation was done. It was dead weight tested to 4 Gs and also
saved me another pound.
If you will send me a self addressed, stamped envelope I will sent you a
copy of these sketches.
Duane the plane in Tallahassee, FL, FireFly SN 007, 447, 2B Ivo, 109.3 Hrs.
----- Original Message -----
From: Chuck Davis
Subject: Kolb-List: BRS
I did some disassembly & inspection on a Firefly I purchased, and now
have the classic question of how does it all go back together.
The plane has a 500 lb BRS softpack mounted in the center gap under the
gap seal. I have the BRS manual with the Firefly specific mounting
instructions. However, they do not address the relationship between the
BRS mounting rails and the wing leading edge spar.
The two mounting rails overlap with the leading edge spar. There are
holes in the mounting rails and the top leading edge spar that line up,
and a bolt and castle nut that hold the rails in a fixed position
against the spar. The question is, do the hold the rails go over or
under the leading edger spars? I have them under, for two reasons:
1. Seems to disrupt the airfoil shape less, and
2. It seems a more solid mounting for holding the chute pack down
(attached to the plane) if the rocket is ever fired.
Thanks.
Chuck Davis
FireFly 028
Full Enclosure, 3B IVO, Big Tires
=
=
=
=
=
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)BCChapel.org> |
| Subject: | Re: High Performance Legal Ultralight Kit |
It is an Advisory Circular, what you want is AC103-7, Appendix 1.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>Scott,
>
>Have you or anyone else seen this document for the FireFly, or know where
>to get a copy of it?
>
>Jack B. Hart FF004
>Jackson, MO
>
>
>>
>>This can rather easily be a legal 254 pound FAR part 103 ultralight
>>which does not require either
>>a license or a medical to fly and has folding wings ( compound style
>>like a bird )
>>see attached pics of folded finished Firefly along with current pics of
>>project on wheels..
>
>
>>The Firefly is a to my knowledge the only ultralight to be signed off on
>>by the FAA
>>based on formula as opposed to observed performance. Basically the FAA
>>issued
>>formulas in 1982 for field use in calculating whether the planes would
>>exceed performance
>>limits. By observing the strict letter of the law, Kolb found some
>>loopholes allowing
>>this plane to meet formula requirements and exceed 55 knots full
>>throttle level flight by a significant amount..
>>
>>Scott Perkins or 678-290-0507
>>Marietta, GA
>>
>>
>
>
>Jack & Louise Hart
>jbhart(at)ldd.net
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
Hi Listers,
The List of Contributors (LOC) is just around the corner! On December 1st
I post a list of everyone that so generously made a Contribution to support
the Lists. Its sort of my way of publicly thanking everyone that took a
minute to show their appreciation for the Lists.
Won't you take a moment and assure that your name is on that List of
Contributors? As a number of people have pointed out, the List seems at
least, if not a whole lot more, valuable as a building/flying/recreating
tool as a typical your magazine subscription. We won't even talk about a
newsstand price... :-)
Won't you take minute and assure that your name is on the upcoming
LOC? Tell others that you appreciate the Lists. Making a Contribution to
support the Lists is fast and easy using your Visa or M/C on the SSL Secure
Web Site:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
or by popping a personal check in the mail to:
Matronics Email Lists
c/o Matt Dralle
PO Box 347
Livermore CA 94551-0347
!! Don't forget !!
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generously donated a FREE copy of Van's new "The RV Story" video to anyone
making a Contribution of $50 or more to support the Lists. For complete
information on the _awesome_ offer, please see this URL:
http://www.matronics.com/searching/getmsg_script.cgi?INDEX=113629625?KEYS=asdf?LISTNAME=RV?HITNUMBER=1?SERIAL=23392130806?SHOWBUTTONS=NO
To make sure you get your video, be sure to follow the instructions at the
URL above carefully!
I would like to thank everyone that has so generously made a Contribution
thus far in this year's List Fund Raiser! Remember that its YOUR support
that keeps these Lists going and improving! Don't forget to include a
little comment about how the Lists have helped you! I love to feel the
love... :-)
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron or Mary" <ronormar(at)apex.net> |
| Subject: | Control cables & 75r |
I received a message from 75r and could not figure out if it came from the
list or direct so I will post my response to the list and see what happens.
I hope I haven't posted this message twice to the list. If so I apologize.
This concerns the elevator cables with the new control stick in the FireStar
I think there are two separate flaws in this design that add to each other.
The first being the pulleys being off the center line of the torque tube.
This causes the cables to go slack when the stick is moved sideways toward
the side that the upper cable is on and tighten when the stick is move to
the opposite side which also puts a severe side load on the flange of the
pulley. The other flaw is that the pivot hole in the stick is not in line
with the cable attachment points on the stick. The pivot point is about 7/8
of an inch forward of the cable attachment points. This causes the cables
to tighten when the stick is moved forward or back from the neutral position
When moving the stick forward and to the left as when taxing down wind
with the wind from the right rear quarter you have the worst condition. If
tension is set in this position then when the stick is returned to neutral,
the cables are sagging to the floor. When I called Kolb about this last
week I was also told that this is the first time they had heard of this. I
consider this to be a very dangerous design and I do not intend to fly this
plane until it is corrected even if I have to have it done somewhere myself.
I posted this problem a week ago and have seen no responses on the list.
If someone has any conflicting opinions, I would really like to hear them.
Ron Payne
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Rains" <rr(at)htg.net> |
Yipes! Noticed a crack in my FS II cage at the point where the back seat
brace is attached above the gear tube, right side. I noticed that will's
plane has a support tube welded to the frame instead, with the seat tube
inside. I suppose this allows some flex. I purchased a small mig welder
but would like opinions on how to proceed. Should I jut weld it back, or
install a arrangement like on the new ones? Great weather yesterday, flew
3.6 hours.
Dave Rains
El Paso
FireStar II
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ed mills <edgmills(at)yahoo.com> |
--- Chuck Davis wrote:
>
>
> I did some disassembly & inspection on a Firefly I
> purchased, and now
> have the classic question of how does it all go back
> together.
>
Chuck
I installed the same BRS on my Firefly but it sounds
different?? I have the soft pack.
The aluminum rails that my pack sits on are mounted to
the fuse, top center tube. My rails are actually UNDER
the fuse tube. The rails are attached to the bottom of
the "saddle brackets" that go over and below the upper
tube and clamp in place.
This puts the front of my brs pack well back behind
the leading edge of the wings, and directly over my
head.
There is a problem in this area in that I had to lower
my seat back to get head clearance or helmet
clearance. If I had installed the rails above the fuse
tube there is no way it would have been under the gap
seal.
I will try and find the dig. photos that I sent to BRS
for approval and send them to you.
If all else fails , call BRS or KOLB.
Good luck
Ed Mills
Dallas, Tx,
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerryb <ulflyer(at)airmail.net> |
Yes. make sure you get this fixed before flying anymore. Citribrias (GA
airplane) which had the folding back on the front seat has a problem of
frame breaking. When it happened the pilot would fall backwards causing a
sudden abrupt yank on the control stick and the force would pull the wings
off. They fixed it with a $600 AD. I could see the same thing happening
if it failed on your plane.
jerryb
>
>Yipes! Noticed a crack in my FS II cage at the point where the back seat
>brace is attached above the gear tube, right side. I noticed that will's
>plane has a support tube welded to the frame instead, with the seat tube
>inside. I suppose this allows some flex. I purchased a small mig welder
>but would like opinions on how to proceed. Should I jut weld it back, or
>install a arrangement like on the new ones? Great weather yesterday, flew
>3.6 hours.
>Dave Rains
>El Paso
>FireStar II
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Christopher John Armstrong" <Tophera(at)centurytel.net> |
> Yipes! Noticed a crack in my FS II cage at the point where the back seat
> brace is attached above the gear tube, right side. I noticed that will's
> plane has a support tube welded to the frame instead, with the seat tube
> inside. I suppose this allows some flex. I purchased a small mig welder
> but would like opinions on how to proceed. Should I jut weld it back, or
> install a arrangement like on the new ones? Great weather yesterday, flew
> 3.6 hours.
> Dave Rains
> El Paso
my understanding is that the reason for the slip tube on the back seat was
to prevent it from bucking into the back of the rear seat passenger during a
crash. (they figured that the landing gear sockets could do enough damage
by themselves I guess!) if you carry people back there you might be
protecting them slightly by adding the slip tube.
Topher
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron or Mary" <ronormar(at)apex.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Control cables & 75r |
-------Original Message-------
From: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
Date: Monday, November 19, 2001 06:30:14
Subject: Kolb-List: Control cables & 75r
I just talked to Brian at Lite Speed about my concerns and he, after
checking a plane that they had there, called me back and assured me that
there was not a problem. He said that the cable tension remained within
limits throughout the normal range of stick motion. Everyone has to do what
makes them feel comfortable I guess. I am going to study this a little more
Ron Payne
I received a message from 75r and could not figure out if it came from the
list or direct so I will post my response to the list and see what happens.
I hope I haven't posted this message twice to the list. If so I apologize.
This concerns the elevator cables with the new control stick in the FireStar
_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jack Carillon <pcarillonsr(at)neo.rr.com> |
Dave and other Firestar I and II owners I went back through my papers
from Kolb and found an article in a July 1995 Kolb Aircraft updates
& newsletter sent out to Kolb owners , this was what the article
said i will type as written.
FireStar I/II
Rear seat tube
The steel tube at the bottom rear of the passenger seat should be
cut from the cage . This tube creates a stress concentration where it is
welded to the vertical cabane tubes at the side of the cage. The
landingear-imposed-loads flexs the cage very slightly on landing-and
hard landings in particular. Normally the cabanes would flex slightly
and thus absorb the stress. But the seat tube does not allow the
cabanes to flex and as result has created two small cracks on each
cabane on our demo Firestar. Eliminating the seat tube will eliminate
the problem.
If you don't plan on using the secound seat, then just cut the
existing seat tube from your cage immediately; leave aboout 2" at each
end; later this may be used to attach another tube, if you don't like
using the passanger seat as a sling seat. Make sure you smooth any
sharp edges. All FireStar I and FireStart-II owners should remove this
tube.
You can continue to use the rear seat with the seat tube
removed- it works just fine that way as a " sling" seat and saves a bit
of weight as well - you may even want to keep it that way. If you want
to install a tube let us know and we'll sent it to you, no charge. It
will slip over the stubs and be riveted to the stub on one side only,
this will allow the other side to absorb what flexing that may occur.
I bought part of my kit in Nov. of 94 and my cage in 95 an it had
the slip tube like you say Will's has. Hope this helps clear up your
problem.
Jack Carillon FireStar II Akron oh.
Dave Rains wrote:
>
>Yipes! Noticed a crack in my FS II cage at the point where the back seat
>brace is attached above the gear tube, right side. I noticed that will's
>plane has a support tube welded to the frame instead, with the seat tube
>inside. I suppose this allows some flex. I purchased a small mig welder
>but would like opinions on how to proceed. Should I jut weld it back, or
>install a arrangement like on the new ones? Great weather yesterday, flew
>3.6 hours.
>Dave Rains
>El Paso
>FireStar II
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Sasseville" <sassevilleapiaries(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Trailering Firestar 1,600 miles |
I want to thank you all for your suggestions, the Firestar made it to
Florida without any damage at all.
I wish I could say that for my brand new trailer (1 month).
My truck drove over a small gator and flung it up to the front of the
trailer. Big dent on the front crome corner.
Paul Sasseville
Zolfo Springs, Fl
FSII 98% done
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Carlisle <rrcarl(at)nhvt.net> |
Speaking of cage cracks...I found 2 cracked welds on my Twinstar in the area
where the cage meets meets the landing gear tubes. Also found a broken weld
on the vertical stab where it meets the tube that runs inside the boom tube.
I've decided to begin the restoration sooner rather than later...
Ross
> From: "Dave Rains" <rr(at)htg.net>
> Reply-To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2001 06:00:48 -0700
> To: "kolb list"
> Subject: Kolb-List: cage crack
>
>
> Yipes! Noticed a crack in my FS II cage at the point where the back seat
> brace is attached above the gear tube, right side. I noticed that will's
> plane has a support tube welded to the frame instead, with the seat tube
> inside. I suppose this allows some flex. I purchased a small mig welder
> but would like opinions on how to proceed. Should I jut weld it back, or
> install a arrangement like on the new ones? Great weather yesterday, flew
> 3.6 hours.
> Dave Rains
> El Paso
> FireStar II
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Rains" <rr(at)htg.net> |
Thanks! I'll get the old hack saw out and............
There's just something about sawing on your Kolb that don't set right.
Oh well, got to be done. Will clean up the area, remove the tube, and weld
any remaining crack.
Really appreciate the information.
Best regards
Dave Rains
FS II
(Still in the 70s around here)
-----Original Message-----
From: Jack Carillon <pcarillonsr(at)neo.rr.com>
Date: Monday, November 19, 2001 7:10 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: cage crack
>
>Dave and other Firestar I and II owners I went back through my papers
>from Kolb and found an article in a July 1995 Kolb Aircraft updates
>& newsletter sent out to Kolb owners , this was what the article
>said i will type as written.
>
> FireStar I/II
>
>Rear seat tube
>
> The steel tube at the bottom rear of the passenger seat should be
>cut from the cage . This tube creates a stress concentration where it is
>welded to the vertical cabane tubes at the side of the cage. The
>landingear-imposed-loads flexs the cage very slightly on landing-and
>hard landings in particular. Normally the cabanes would flex slightly
>and thus absorb the stress. But the seat tube does not allow the
>cabanes to flex and as result has created two small cracks on each
>cabane on our demo Firestar. Eliminating the seat tube will eliminate
>the problem.
> If you don't plan on using the secound seat, then just cut the
>existing seat tube from your cage immediately; leave aboout 2" at each
>end; later this may be used to attach another tube, if you don't like
>using the passanger seat as a sling seat. Make sure you smooth any
>sharp edges. All FireStar I and FireStart-II owners should remove this
>tube.
> You can continue to use the rear seat with the seat tube
>removed- it works just fine that way as a " sling" seat and saves a bit
>of weight as well - you may even want to keep it that way. If you want
>to install a tube let us know and we'll sent it to you, no charge. It
>will slip over the stubs and be riveted to the stub on one side only,
>this will allow the other side to absorb what flexing that may occur.
>
>
>I bought part of my kit in Nov. of 94 and my cage in 95 an it had
>the slip tube like you say Will's has. Hope this helps clear up your
>problem.
>
>Jack Carillon FireStar II Akron oh.
>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Douglas Corarito <dougc(at)infoequipt.com> |
| Subject: | FireFly Build Times |
Hi everyone,
I'd like to know from those who have completed a FireFly:
- How long did it take to complete airframe + engine?
- What sort of take off and landing distances are you seeing?
- Your thoughts on operations from rough grass or dirt. Are the
spec'd tires sufficient? Anyone using larger?
I'm considering either a FireFly or KitFox Lite. I'm leaning towards
the FireFly at the present...
Doug
--
-------------------------
INFOequipt,Inc.
mailto:dougc(at)infoequipt.com
http://www.infoequipt.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerryb <ulflyer(at)airmail.net> |
Be careful. Fabric once started burns real fast. Have a good fire
extinguisher standing near by.
jerryb
>
>Thanks! I'll get the old hack saw out and............
>There's just something about sawing on your Kolb that don't set right.
>Oh well, got to be done. Will clean up the area, remove the tube, and weld
>any remaining crack.
>Really appreciate the information.
>Best regards
>Dave Rains
>FS II
>(Still in the 70s around here)
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Jack Carillon <pcarillonsr(at)neo.rr.com>
>To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
>Date: Monday, November 19, 2001 7:10 PM
>Subject: Re: Kolb-List: cage crack
>
>
> >
> >Dave and other Firestar I and II owners I went back through my papers
> >from Kolb and found an article in a July 1995 Kolb Aircraft updates
> >& newsletter sent out to Kolb owners , this was what the article
> >said i will type as written.
> >
> > FireStar I/II
> >
> >Rear seat tube
> >
> > The steel tube at the bottom rear of the passenger seat should be
> >cut from the cage . This tube creates a stress concentration where it is
> >welded to the vertical cabane tubes at the side of the cage. The
> >landingear-imposed-loads flexs the cage very slightly on landing-and
> >hard landings in particular. Normally the cabanes would flex slightly
> >and thus absorb the stress. But the seat tube does not allow the
> >cabanes to flex and as result has created two small cracks on each
> >cabane on our demo Firestar. Eliminating the seat tube will eliminate
> >the problem.
> > If you don't plan on using the secound seat, then just cut the
> >existing seat tube from your cage immediately; leave aboout 2" at each
> >end; later this may be used to attach another tube, if you don't like
> >using the passanger seat as a sling seat. Make sure you smooth any
> >sharp edges. All FireStar I and FireStart-II owners should remove this
> >tube.
> > You can continue to use the rear seat with the seat tube
> >removed- it works just fine that way as a " sling" seat and saves a bit
> >of weight as well - you may even want to keep it that way. If you want
> >to install a tube let us know and we'll sent it to you, no charge. It
> >will slip over the stubs and be riveted to the stub on one side only,
> >this will allow the other side to absorb what flexing that may occur.
> >
> >
> >I bought part of my kit in Nov. of 94 and my cage in 95 an it had
> >the slip tube like you say Will's has. Hope this helps clear up your
> >problem.
> >
> >Jack Carillon FireStar II Akron oh.
> >
>
> >>
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerryb <ulflyer(at)airmail.net> |
| Subject: | Re: FireFly Build Times |
Doug,
Unless you desire the sports car Kolb or the need the short wing span, I
would opt for FireStar. If you looking for a FireFly already built, I and
my partner have one for sale.
Jerryb
FireFly
>
>Hi everyone,
>
>I'd like to know from those who have completed a FireFly:
>
>- How long did it take to complete airframe + engine?
>
>- What sort of take off and landing distances are you seeing?
>
>- Your thoughts on operations from rough grass or dirt. Are the
>spec'd tires sufficient? Anyone using larger?
>
>I'm considering either a FireFly or KitFox Lite. I'm leaning towards
>the FireFly at the present...
>
>
>Doug
>--
>
>
>-------------------------
>INFOequipt,Inc.
>mailto:dougc(at)infoequipt.com
>http://www.infoequipt.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chuck Davis <cdavis215(at)earthlink.com> |
Ed,
Thanks. With your comment in my mind, all it took was another look at
the BRS plans. This time everything clicked into place. What I found
is that the rails do seem to extend too far forward. The rear saddle
bracket (as you call it) seems to be attached to the tube too far
forward, which causes the rails to extend out past the front of the tray
and soft pack.
We took the wings off for transport at purchase time, and I thought at
the time the rails and leading edge tube seemed to interfer with each
other. When I out the wings back on, they definately did. Next time
I'm out, I'll remove the BRS and see if we can re-install according to
the plans.
Thanks again,
Chuck
>
> --- Chuck Davis wrote:
> >
> >
> > I did some disassembly & inspection on a Firefly I
> > purchased, and now
> > have the classic question of how does it all go back
> > together.
> >
> Chuck
> I installed the same BRS on my Firefly but it sounds
> different?? I have the soft pack.
> The aluminum rails that my pack sits on are mounted to
> the fuse, top center tube. My rails are actually UNDER
> the fuse tube. The rails are attached to the bottom of
> the "saddle brackets" that go over and below the upper
> tube and clamp in place.
> This puts the front of my brs pack well back behind
> the leading edge of the wings, and directly over my
> head.
> There is a problem in this area in that I had to lower
> my seat back to get head clearance or helmet
> clearance. If I had installed the rails above the fuse
> tube there is no way it would have been under the gap
> seal.
>
> I will try and find the dig. photos that I sent to BRS
> for approval and send them to you.
>
> If all else fails , call BRS or KOLB.
> Good luck
> Ed Mills
> Dallas, Tx,
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vic Worthington" <vicw(at)vcn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Loading Trolley |
I just got back to Wyoming and noticed that there was a lot of discussion
about the trolley I use to load my Kolb onto my trailer. I don't have a web
site but I will be happy to send the pictures to anyone requesting them or
if someone has a web site and is willing to post the pictures, I can send it
to them.
The trolley attaches to the tail boom and I attach the winch cable to the
trolley. The trolley follows a track on the floor of the trailer and the
Kolb is loaded tail first. Just crank away on the winch and the Firestar
rolls tail first onto the trailer. No strain - no pain.
The Kolb is in Phoenix and I am in Wyoming but I will be back in Phoenix
next week and will get some better pictures of the trolley for anyone
interested.
Vic Worthington
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
I think you're thinking of the nitrate/butyrate doped fabric.........it's
very flammable. PolyTone (Stits) won't support a
flame...................tho' the torch won't do it any good. :)
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "jerryb" <ulflyer(at)airmail.net>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: cage crack
>
> Be careful. Fabric once started burns real fast. Have a good fire
> extinguisher standing near by.
> jerryb
>
> >
> >Thanks! I'll get the old hack saw out and............
> >There's just something about sawing on your Kolb that don't set right.
> >Oh well, got to be done. Will clean up the area, remove the tube, and
weld
> >any remaining crack.
> >Really appreciate the information.
> >Best regards
> >Dave Rains
> >FS II
> >(Still in the 70s around here)
> >-----Original Message-----
> >From: Jack Carillon <pcarillonsr(at)neo.rr.com>
> >To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> >Date: Monday, November 19, 2001 7:10 PM
> >Subject: Re: Kolb-List: cage crack
> >
> >
> > >
> > >Dave and other Firestar I and II owners I went back through my
papers
> > >from Kolb and found an article in a July 1995 Kolb Aircraft updates
> > >& newsletter sent out to Kolb owners , this was what the article
> > >said i will type as written.
> > >
> > > FireStar I/II
> > >
> > >Rear seat tube
> > >
> > > The steel tube at the bottom rear of the passenger seat should be
> > >cut from the cage . This tube creates a stress concentration where it
is
> > >welded to the vertical cabane tubes at the side of the cage. The
> > >landingear-imposed-loads flexs the cage very slightly on landing-and
> > >hard landings in particular. Normally the cabanes would flex slightly
> > >and thus absorb the stress. But the seat tube does not allow the
> > >cabanes to flex and as result has created two small cracks on each
> > >cabane on our demo Firestar. Eliminating the seat tube will eliminate
> > >the problem.
> > > If you don't plan on using the secound seat, then just cut the
> > >existing seat tube from your cage immediately; leave aboout 2" at each
> > >end; later this may be used to attach another tube, if you don't like
> > >using the passanger seat as a sling seat. Make sure you smooth any
> > >sharp edges. All FireStar I and FireStart-II owners should remove this
> > >tube.
> > > You can continue to use the rear seat with the seat tube
> > >removed- it works just fine that way as a " sling" seat and saves a
bit
> > >of weight as well - you may even want to keep it that way. If you want
> > >to install a tube let us know and we'll sent it to you, no charge. It
> > >will slip over the stubs and be riveted to the stub on one side only,
> > >this will allow the other side to absorb what flexing that may occur.
> > >
> > >
> > >I bought part of my kit in Nov. of 94 and my cage in 95 an it had
> > >the slip tube like you say Will's has. Hope this helps clear up your
> > >problem.
> > >
> > >Jack Carillon FireStar II Akron oh.
> > >
> >
> > >>
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Michael Brown... |
Hi Listers,
In support of the 2001 Email List Fund Raiser, Michael Brown of Brown
Aviation Tool Supply Co. ( http://www.browntool.com ) has generously
offered to provide Gift Certificates to all Listers making Contributions of
$30 or more this year!
Making your Contribution to support these Email Lists and to qualify for
the Brown Tool Gift Certificate is fast and easy by using the SSL Secure
Credit Card Contribution Web Site at:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Or by sending a personal check Contribution to:
Matronics Email Lists
c/o Matt Dralle
PO Box 347
Livermore CA 94551-0347
According to Michael, "The Gift Certificates have absolutely no strings
attached and are as good as cash for anything from the Brown Tool Web Site
or Catalog."
The amount of your Gift Certificate is based on the size of your List
Contribution and is according to the following:
$100 or greater Contribution receives a $25 Gift Certificate!
or
$30-$99 Contribution receives a $10 Gift Certificate!
==================== How To Receive Your Certificate ====================
To receive your Brown Tool Gift Certificate, send an email message to:
browntooloffer(at)matronics.com
and include the following information:
1) Subject Line: Tool Offer
2) Which Gift Certificate you qualify for ($10 or $25)
3) [Your Name]
4) [Your Mailing Address]
5) [Your City, State Zip]
** Please only use the email address shown above (
browntooloffer(at)matronics.com ) to request your Gift Certificate!
*** Anyone making a List Contribution of $30 or more in 2001 qualifies for
the Gift Certificate!
==================== How To Receive Your Certificate ====================
You should receive your Gift Certificate from Brown Tool in about 2-4 weeks.
I want to thank Michael Brown of Brown Aviation Tool Supply Co. for this
wonderful offer in support of the Email Lists! If you haven't yet had a
look at the Brown Tool Web Site ( http://www.browntool.com ), then you own
it to yourself to take a peek! He has some great deals and good quality tools.
And finally, I would like to thank everyone that has already made a
Contribution in this year's Fund Raiser! Its YOUR support that keeps these
Lists running and NOT ADVERTISING and FLASHING BANNER ADS...
Thank you!!
Matt Dralle
Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Annual Panama City Beach Run |
Morning Gang:
Here are some pics taken by Jim Holbrook, Firestar, during
our flight last weekend that was described by Duane Mitchell
early on. Go to the url and click on the file:
http://hawk36.home.mindspring.com/Beach%20Bash%202001/
I flew down to Panama City Friday, actually to Krystal
Village Airpark, to meet up with Mike Highsmith at his
hanger. Flew 157 miles in 1.5 hours. Not bad for a 80 to
90 mph cruise. :-) Spent the night with Mike. Next
morning we met up at Sandy Creek Air Park 27 miles south of
Mike's place. Had a dozen or so airplanes make the beach
run. Weather was perfect. Spent the night Saturday night
on Alligator Point after a feast of North Florida seafood.
Sunday morning said my goodbyes and headed NW for home.
Great weekend. What ultralighting is all about.
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Sasseville" <sassevilleapiaries(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Annual Panama City Beach Run |
Now that's living!
Paul Sasseville
Zolfo Springs, Florida
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Hauck" <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: Annual Panama City Beach Run
>
> Morning Gang:
>
> Here are some pics taken by Jim Holbrook, Firestar, during
> our flight last weekend that was described by Duane Mitchell
> early on. Go to the url and click on the file:
>
> http://hawk36.home.mindspring.com/Beach%20Bash%202001/
>
> I flew down to Panama City Friday, actually to Krystal
> Village Airpark, to meet up with Mike Highsmith at his
> hanger. Flew 157 miles in 1.5 hours. Not bad for a 80 to
> 90 mph cruise. :-) Spent the night with Mike. Next
> morning we met up at Sandy Creek Air Park 27 miles south of
> Mike's place. Had a dozen or so airplanes make the beach
> run. Weather was perfect. Spent the night Saturday night
> on Alligator Point after a feast of North Florida seafood.
> Sunday morning said my goodbyes and headed NW for home.
> Great weekend. What ultralighting is all about.
>
> Take care,
>
> john h
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron or Mary" <ronormar(at)apex.net> |
Anyone know the secret to putting leading edge tapes on an IVO prop? I
tried three times and ruined all three tapes. Always wound up with a crease
somewhere in the tape just before I finished the job. Followed the
directions and aligned up the leading edge with the points of the tape then
worked the flat side down first then started working the curved side down=2E
Much profanity just before the last section was in place.=0D
=0D
Ron Payne
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Cording" <bobcording(at)chartertn.net> (by way of Richard Pike <richard(at)bcchapel.org>) |
This post is not directly Kolb related, however, it is commonly known that
some Kolbs may be prone to aileron flutter. I know that on my MKIII, I had
both aileron flutter at high speed, and a slow cycle rudder flutter at all
speeds, (caused by too much weight on the rudder trailing edge) either of
which could have been bad if not counterbalanced. Therefore I am taking the
liberty of putting this post on the Kolb list. I got it from one of our
EAA442 chapter members.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
This URL takes you to an NTSB website that has pictures of the vertical fin.
http://www.ntsb.gov/events/2001/AA587/tailcomp.htm
Is flutter triggered by wake turbulence perhaps the culprit?
From an anonymous US aircraft engineer:
The bolts that attached the composite vertical stabilizer to the fuselage,
remain properly attached.
Clearly, the failure is delamination of the composite vertical tail above
the points of attachment to the fuselage.
There are reasons (despite the weight savings) why Douglas Aircraft and
Boeing have never used composites this way - and you're looking at one. As
the delamination of the composite progressed, the entire 37-ft. tall
vertical tail would have fluttered briefly and violently.
That would explain why both engines were literally shaken off the airplane.
(This is particularly remarkable, because unlike Douglas and Boeing, Airbus
has bragged of purposely designing their engine mounting pylons to keep the
engines in place no matter what!)
One wing tip was found several blocks away from the main wreckage. BTW,
you'll be hearing a lot about an encounter with wake turbulence. That is a
red herring. Wake turbulence can make it difficult - maybe even impossible
to control the airplane - but no amount of wake turbulence can remove the
vertical tail at such low flight speeds unless there is a pre-existing
structural fault.
What is flutter? This morning, I got an email from a friend who is the
Director of Structural Engineering of a major American aircraft maker. He
described a chilling picture:
"Flutter modes often have an explosively quick onset, rising from nothing to
catastrophic in the blink of an eye. Furthermore, the shaking can happen so
fast that, despite the large (huge) deflections involved, an observer on the
ground might not see it. It's just a blur. The people in the back of the
airplane would have been shaken senseless and worse as the seats tore loose
and everything was homogenized back there; but it was all over a few seconds
later."
The design weakness can and will be fixed on other Airbuses. If not, there
are plenty of nice Boeing jetliners mothballed in the Mojave Desert, that
can trade places with the Airbuses. In the meantime, I'm not riding Airbus.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Rains" <rr(at)htg.net> |
Are you using the Ivo supplied tape? The tape Ivo sells has a poor
adhesive, (ask Will Uribe) but should go on straight. When applying prop
tape I use a small hard roller, and take plenty of time.
Dave Rains
El Paso
-----Original Message-----
From: Ron or Mary <ronormar(at)apex.net>
Date: Wednesday, November 21, 2001 12:10 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Props
>
>Anyone know the secret to putting leading edge tapes on an IVO prop? I
>tried three times and ruined all three tapes. Always wound up with a cre>ase
>somewhere in the tape just before I finished the job. Followed the
>directions and aligned up the leading edge with the points of the tape th>en
>worked the flat side down first then started working the curved side down>=2E
>Much profanity just before the last section was in place.=0D
>=0D
>Ron Payne
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerryb <ulflyer(at)airmail.net> |
A small hard roller - Honey do you know why the microwave oven cart is
tilting - (one caster went missing).
>
>Are you using the Ivo supplied tape? The tape Ivo sells has a poor
>adhesive, (ask Will Uribe) but should go on straight. When applying prop
>tape I use a small hard roller, and take plenty of time.
>Dave Rains
>El Paso
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Ron or Mary <ronormar(at)apex.net>
>To: Kolb
>Date: Wednesday, November 21, 2001 12:10 PM
>Subject: Kolb-List: Props
>
>
> >
> >Anyone know the secret to putting leading edge tapes on an IVO prop? I
> >tried three times and ruined all three tapes. Always wound up with a cre> >ase
> >somewhere in the tape just before I finished the job. Followed the
> >directions and aligned up the leading edge with the points of the tape th> >en
> >worked the flat side down first then started working the curved side down> >=2E
> >Much profanity just before the last section was in place.=0D
> >=0D
> >Ron Payne
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerryb <ulflyer(at)airmail.net> |
Well you have done better than some people I know, they usually end up
slicing their fingers in the process. That's one more item that
triggers profanity. IVO should include Band-Aids, a needle and suture
with each shipment.
jerryb
>
>Anyone know the secret to putting leading edge tapes on an IVO prop? I
>tried three times and ruined all three tapes. Always wound up with a cre>ase
>somewhere in the tape just before I finished the job. Followed the
>directions and aligned up the leading edge with the points of the tape th>en
>worked the flat side down first then started working the curved side down>=2E
>Much profanity just before the last section was in place.=0D
>=0D
>Ron Payne
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <bwr000(at)yahoo.com> |
Regarding flutter on Kolbs, my advice is just to be sure you are using
counter-weights if they are called for in the plans. However, I did
encounter aileron flutter on my KXP, where counter-weights were not
called for. I attributed the flutter to a slight difference in aileron
hinge placement between the KXP and earlier 5-rib Firestar models
(including the KX). I solved the problem with improved hinge
placement, although I would normally roll my eyes if anyone ever said
that there was a solution to flutter other than balancing the control
surfaces. My reasoning for believing the hinge change would fix the
problem was because I was (and still am) under the impression that
flutter had not been encountered on the KX or earlier Firestars, and
that I was simply changing my KXP hinge placement -- in particular at
the outer ends of the ailerons -- to be as good or better than KX and
original Firestars. HMMMM, this all makes me wonder how/why there
would have been flutter on the Airbus, assuming their rudder must be
balanced.
Richard, Nice ntsb web link, and pretty damning pictures for Airbus.
Have you seen any ntsb statements that point to composite delamination
yet? It would be very early if they did, so I'm curious if they
consider the evidence that solid. If there is a good side, it is that
it re-enforces the notion that terrorists have not struck through our
aviation maintenance system.
-Ben Ransom
--- Bob Cording wrote:
> (by way of Richard Pike
> )
>
> This post is not directly Kolb related, however, it is commonly known
> that
> some Kolbs may be prone to aileron flutter. I know that on my MKIII,
> I had
> both aileron flutter at high speed, and a slow cycle rudder flutter
> at all
> speeds, (caused by too much weight on the rudder trailing edge)
> either of
> which could have been bad if not counterbalanced. Therefore I am
> taking the
> liberty of putting this post on the Kolb list. I got it from one of
> our
> EAA442 chapter members.
>
> Richard Pike
> MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>
> This URL takes you to an NTSB website that has pictures of the
> vertical fin.
>
> http://www.ntsb.gov/events/2001/AA587/tailcomp.htm
>
> Is flutter triggered by wake turbulence perhaps the culprit?
>
> From an anonymous US aircraft engineer:
>
> The bolts that attached the composite vertical stabilizer to the
> fuselage,
> remain properly attached.
>
> Clearly, the failure is delamination of the composite vertical tail
> above
> the points of attachment to the fuselage.
>
> There are reasons (despite the weight savings) why Douglas Aircraft
> and
> Boeing have never used composites this way - and you're looking at
> one. As
> the delamination of the composite progressed, the entire 37-ft. tall
> vertical tail would have fluttered briefly and violently.
>
> That would explain why both engines were literally shaken off the
> airplane.
> (This is particularly remarkable, because unlike Douglas and Boeing,
> Airbus
> has bragged of purposely designing their engine mounting pylons to
> keep the
> engines in place no matter what!)
>
> One wing tip was found several blocks away from the main wreckage.
> BTW,
> you'll be hearing a lot about an encounter with wake turbulence. That
> is a
> red herring. Wake turbulence can make it difficult - maybe even
> impossible
> to control the airplane - but no amount of wake turbulence can remove
> the
> vertical tail at such low flight speeds unless there is a
> pre-existing
> structural fault.
>
> What is flutter? This morning, I got an email from a friend who is
> the
> Director of Structural Engineering of a major American aircraft
> maker. He
> described a chilling picture:
>
> "Flutter modes often have an explosively quick onset, rising from
> nothing to
> catastrophic in the blink of an eye. Furthermore, the shaking can
> happen so
> fast that, despite the large (huge) deflections involved, an observer
> on the
> ground might not see it. It's just a blur. The people in the back of
> the
> airplane would have been shaken senseless and worse as the seats tore
> loose
> and everything was homogenized back there; but it was all over a few
> seconds
> later."
>
> The design weakness can and will be fixed on other Airbuses. If not,
> there
> are plenty of nice Boeing jetliners mothballed in the Mojave Desert,
> that
> can trade places with the Airbuses. In the meantime, I'm not riding
> Airbus.
>
>
>
> [#######----------------------13.8%----------------------------]
>
>
>
>
>
>
=====
http://mae.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
http://geocities.yahoo.com/ps/info1
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vince Nicely" <vincenicely(at)chartertn.net> |
Dave,
Does your note imply that you have another source for a suitable tape for
the edge of IVO props? I notice my tapes are coming loose at the edges and
need replacing. What have you found useful?
> Are you using the Ivo supplied tape? The tape Ivo sells has a poor
> adhesive, (ask Will Uribe) but should go on straight. When applying prop
> tape I use a small hard roller, and take plenty of time.
> Dave Rains
Vince Nicely
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: : Kolb-List:Ultra Star |
In a message dated 11/7/01 11:39:23 PM Eastern Standard Time,
flykolb(at)epix.net writes:
> Not I said the duck, not I said the cat, not I said the pig ... not I said
> Dennis. (responding to you ownership question)
>
> Hi Herb,
>
> The US is a great flying AC. I actually think it handled better than the
> FS's which followed it. The negatives were (1) small dia prop (2) prop
> close to ground and (3) no spring gear. Also re-drive parts are no longer
> available ... or for that matter any other specialized parts.
>
> Later developoments helped with some of these weakness. A spring gear was
> available for awhile, and the composite props helped with the lawn mowing
> function - blades lasted longer. No cure for the small prop though, so
> take-off and climb is not nearly as impressive as the FS's. I did more and
> wilder aerobatics in the US than any of the later AC. This was partly due
> to the fact that I did get smarter with passage of time. But I never could
> make the FS roll like I could the US.
>
> I now shiver to recall all the stupid things I did back then!
>
> If you willing to live with some of the above weakness, it is one fine
> flying ultralight.
>
> Happy rebuilding
>
> Dennis
>
Dennis I really appreciate your input to the list and hang on every point you
make as I'm sure that many of us do.
"Not I said....." shows that ...no .... proves that you are surrounded by
little ones.....so I can understand why you have modified your stand on risk
taking. Your value scale has been modified with time and circumstances, it
seems.....that's great pal. Don't ever change and keep the threads and humor
coming.
GeoR38 FSdriver
ps. I have the 5 rib wing and I think my Vne is 75 Mph, if memory serves....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
IVO should include Band-Aids, a needle and suture
> with each shipment.
> jerryb
Jerry and Gang:
Ivo should copy Warp Drive and install a nickle steel inlaid
leading edge during the manufacturing process. No fuss, no
muss, no cut fingers. Better yet, buy and fly a Warp and
end your frustrations.
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Airgriff2(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 11 Msgs - 11/20/01New England to Sun |
& Fun
I've been thinking of flying my MK3 from the Albany N.Y. area to Sun & Fun,
this coming April. Was wondering if any others from this area, New England.
New Jersey, etc. would like to give it a try ? Would be nice to have some
company and possibly get 2 or 3 planes to travel together.
Bob Griffin
E-Mail or 518-4395382
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Pilot Report...Sort of |
In a message dated 11/8/01 6:24:19 PM Eastern Standard Time, RONATNIK(at)aol.com
writes:
> PS For fun tonight, I'm going to post my original message on the Yahoo Hawk
> message board. Those guys are as fanatical as you Kolbers, but with kinda
> of a gooey, touchy feely twist.
>
> Hope it's as much fun as this was.
>
> Bob
>
That's probably because of Chuck S the owner of CGS Hawk....who is not too
far away from me....and therefore his Hawk was a perfect candidate for me to
buy instead of Kolb Firestar.
I chose the Kolb, though, for 5 main reasons probably in this order.
1 it was and is foldable ...probably the best folding technique of any ul
2 it had a good reputation earned over a long time
3. it had the engine mounted higher and more away from the pilot than the
Hawk therefore was probably quieter and safer in case of a collision
4 because of 3, it had one of the biggest props....great for interfacing with
the medium that has the ability to enable you to go......up
4 Homer was Amish.....believed in God, and was probably trustworthy...and
even designed an aircraft in spite of his religion....which even frowns on
electricity.which meant to me that he had the same bug that I had....except
much more profoundly than me.
It would be interesting if others might share the true reasons they settled
on Kolb
GeoR38
ps. We had some Amish family over at the house one time and I couldn't wait
to show the 8th grade boy my Kolb.....his fascination was absolutely thick
with the magnetic attraction to machinery ....even in that young boy.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Pilot Report...Sort of |
> 4 Homer was Amish.....
> GeoR38
GeoR38 and Gang:
Might be a good idea to check the validity of your para 4,
above.
Take care,
john h
PS: Happy Thanksgiving to all on the Kolb List.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Souder" <flykolb(at)epix.net> |
Hi Ben ... welcome back to the list!
Lots of factors enter into the flutter equation besides balance; stiffness
and friction are two that come quickly to mind. A system that has not been
prone to flutter, might flutter if, for instance, friction is reduced. This
is one positive attribute of a cable control system instead of push rods.
Cables typically have more friction and provide more dampening to the system
than a push-pull rod system. Piano hinges typically have a bit more
friction than other type hinges; this is due to the typical slight
misalignment of the longer hinge sections, esp. when it is used full length,
as Kolb did on the early Flyer (not to be confused with the more recent
Flyer that has no hinges). Initially in a new aircraft, there might be
enough friction (with all the tight pivots and hinges) to prevent flutter in
a particular system. Later on, as parts wear, things get looser and
friction is reduced. Then it may be possible for a marginal system to start
fluttering. This is where the cables really help, as hinges and pivots
wear, the cable tension keeps everything tighter.
Same true of stiffness. If there was any delamination going on in the
Airbus vertical stabilizer, then possibly the vertical stabilizer had lost a
bit of stiffness, this could change the flutter equation. Now instead of
being attached to a very stiff vertical stabilizer, the stabilizer has
gained some flexibility and introduces some additional inputs to the
movement of the rudder. Hard to say what may have happened. Possibly
delamination started back in 1994 during the encounter with severe
turbulence and ever since then it has been very slowly and gradually
delaminating with each jolt that came along, till ... the one last jolt to
the system with the wake turbulence.
Dennis
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ben Ransom" <bwr000(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Flight 587
>
> Regarding flutter on Kolbs, my advice is just to be sure you are using
> counter-weights if they are called for in the plans. However, I did
> encounter aileron flutter on my KXP, where counter-weights were not
> called for. I attributed the flutter to a slight difference in aileron
> hinge placement between the KXP and earlier 5-rib Firestar models
> (including the KX). I solved the problem with improved hinge
> placement, although I would normally roll my eyes if anyone ever said
> that there was a solution to flutter other than balancing the control
> surfaces. My reasoning for believing the hinge change would fix the
> problem was because I was (and still am) under the impression that
> flutter had not been encountered on the KX or earlier Firestars, and
> that I was simply changing my KXP hinge placement -- in particular at
> the outer ends of the ailerons -- to be as good or better than KX and
> original Firestars. HMMMM, this all makes me wonder how/why there
> would have been flutter on the Airbus, assuming their rudder must be
> balanced.
>
> Richard, Nice ntsb web link, and pretty damning pictures for Airbus.
> Have you seen any ntsb statements that point to composite delamination
> yet? It would be very early if they did, so I'm curious if they
> consider the evidence that solid. If there is a good side, it is that
> it re-enforces the notion that terrorists have not struck through our
> aviation maintenance system.
> -Ben Ransom
>
>
> --- Bob Cording wrote:
> > (by way of Richard Pike
> > )
> >
> > This post is not directly Kolb related, however, it is commonly known
> > that
> > some Kolbs may be prone to aileron flutter. I know that on my MKIII,
> > I had
> > both aileron flutter at high speed, and a slow cycle rudder flutter
> > at all
> > speeds, (caused by too much weight on the rudder trailing edge)
> > either of
> > which could have been bad if not counterbalanced. Therefore I am
> > taking the
> > liberty of putting this post on the Kolb list. I got it from one of
> > our
> > EAA442 chapter members.
> >
> > Richard Pike
> > MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
> >
> >
> > This URL takes you to an NTSB website that has pictures of the
> > vertical fin.
> >
> > http://www.ntsb.gov/events/2001/AA587/tailcomp.htm
> >
> > Is flutter triggered by wake turbulence perhaps the culprit?
> >
> > From an anonymous US aircraft engineer:
> >
> > The bolts that attached the composite vertical stabilizer to the
> > fuselage,
> > remain properly attached.
> >
> > Clearly, the failure is delamination of the composite vertical tail
> > above
> > the points of attachment to the fuselage.
> >
> > There are reasons (despite the weight savings) why Douglas Aircraft
> > and
> > Boeing have never used composites this way - and you're looking at
> > one. As
> > the delamination of the composite progressed, the entire 37-ft. tall
> > vertical tail would have fluttered briefly and violently.
> >
> > That would explain why both engines were literally shaken off the
> > airplane.
> > (This is particularly remarkable, because unlike Douglas and Boeing,
> > Airbus
> > has bragged of purposely designing their engine mounting pylons to
> > keep the
> > engines in place no matter what!)
> >
> > One wing tip was found several blocks away from the main wreckage.
> > BTW,
> > you'll be hearing a lot about an encounter with wake turbulence. That
> > is a
> > red herring. Wake turbulence can make it difficult - maybe even
> > impossible
> > to control the airplane - but no amount of wake turbulence can remove
> > the
> > vertical tail at such low flight speeds unless there is a
> > pre-existing
> > structural fault.
> >
> > What is flutter? This morning, I got an email from a friend who is
> > the
> > Director of Structural Engineering of a major American aircraft
> > maker. He
> > described a chilling picture:
> >
> > "Flutter modes often have an explosively quick onset, rising from
> > nothing to
> > catastrophic in the blink of an eye. Furthermore, the shaking can
> > happen so
> > fast that, despite the large (huge) deflections involved, an observer
> > on the
> > ground might not see it. It's just a blur. The people in the back of
> > the
> > airplane would have been shaken senseless and worse as the seats tore
> > loose
> > and everything was homogenized back there; but it was all over a few
> > seconds
> > later."
> >
> > The design weakness can and will be fixed on other Airbuses. If not,
> > there
> > are plenty of nice Boeing jetliners mothballed in the Mojave Desert,
> > that
> > can trade places with the Airbuses. In the meantime, I'm not riding
> > Airbus.
> >
> >
> >
> > [#######----------------------13.8%----------------------------]
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> =====
> http://mae.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
>
> http://geocities.yahoo.com/ps/info1
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron or Mary" <ronormar(at)apex.net> |
-------Original Message-------
From: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
Date: Wednesday, November 21, 2001 15:25:42
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Props
I am using the IVO supplied tape. My prop has never been on a plane and the
tape started comming off with it setting on the bench. I contacted IVO and
they said that they had a bad batch of tapes and sent me a new set. These
are the ones I was trying to put on. I am sure that they can be put on
straight. It is just that I can't seem to do it. I have shipped the blades
back to IVO for them to do it for me.
Ron Payne
Are you using the Ivo supplied tape? The tape Ivo sells has a poor
adhesive, (ask Will Uribe) but should go on straight. When applying prop
tape I use a small hard roller, and take plenty of time.
Dave Rains
El Paso
-----Original Message-----
From: Ron or Mary <ronormar(at)apex.net>
Date: Wednesday, November 21, 2001 12:10 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Props
>
>Anyone know the secret to putting leading edge tapes on an IVO prop? I
>tried three times and ruined all three tapes. Always wound up with a cre>ase
>somewhere in the tape just before I finished the job. Followed the
>directions and aligned up the leading edge with the points of the tape th>en
>worked the flat side down first then started working the curved side down>.
>Much profanity just before the last section was in place.
>
>Ron Payne
>
>
_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Rains" <rr(at)htg.net> |
What about that pesky vibration?
Better yet, buy and fly a Warp and
>end your frustrations.
>
>Take care,
>
>john h
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Rains" <rr(at)htg.net> |
Prop tape, both stainless and vinyl, are available from almost any supply
house (CPS, LEAF,etc.) and in different weights.
Dave Rains
-----Original Message-----
From: Vince Nicely <vincenicely(at)chartertn.net>
Date: Wednesday, November 21, 2001 8:25 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Props
>
>Dave,
>
>Does your note imply that you have another source for a suitable tape for
>the edge of IVO props? I notice my tapes are coming loose at the edges and
>need replacing. What have you found useful?
>
>> Are you using the Ivo supplied tape? The tape Ivo sells has a poor
>> adhesive, (ask Will Uribe) but should go on straight. When applying prop
>> tape I use a small hard roller, and take plenty of time.
>> Dave Rains
>
>Vince Nicely
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "PFI/ACF-RF" <redhill(at)rose.net> |
I also am having problems with the tape!
While on the beach run with John hawk and others, my replacement tape which
was supplied by Ivo came unstuck and was slung off. When I ordered the
replacement tape for only this one blade, I received three tapes to have a
couple of backups. I thought maybe my preparation or cleaning of the blade
was at fault; but you indicate the glue is not good as supplied from IVO.
That makes good sense, since I did a good job of cleaning.
Question: I already have two extra tapes to install. What kind of glue
should I use on these IVO tapes when attempting to install on the blade?
Andy
Are you using the Ivo supplied tape? The tape Ivo sells has a poor
adhesive, (ask Will Uribe) but should go on straight. When applying prop
tape I use a small hard roller, and take plenty of time.
Dave Rains
El Paso
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Possum <possums(at)mindspring.com> |
>
>Prop tape, both stainless and vinyl, are available from almost any supply
>house (CPS, LEAF,etc.) and in different weights.
>Dave Rains
Metal tapes slip too.
Istalled them on a warp drive prop on a Firestar 447.
After a few hours it had slipped down the tip of one of the blades -
centri. force.
Did not notice until I heard this unusual whirring sound while running up
the engine one day.
Apparently it had slipped down while flying and was actually cuting into
the top part of the boom tube.
Strong Stuff!
No permanent damage, but felt like the guy who was sawing off the tree limb
while sitting on the wrong end.
Now we use the plastic prop "tape" or nothing at all.
Seems to work Ok on small stuff and stays on if applied right.
Or buy the nickel leading edges, like John H. says.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron or Mary" <ronormar(at)apex.net> |
=0D
=0D
-------Original Message-------=0D
=0D
From: kolb-list(at)matronics.com=0D
Date: Thursday, November 22, 2001 06:37:47=0D
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Props=0D
=0D
=0D
What about that pesky vibration?=0D
=0D
Better yet, buy and fly a Warp and=0D
>end your frustrations.=0D
>=0D
>Take care,=0D
>=0D
>john h=0D
Don't think I can use a Warp three bladed prob on a B-Gear box. To heavy=2E
Maybr should have tried a PowerFin but Kolb recommended against it in favor
of the IVO.=0D
Ron Payne=0D
>=0D
>=0D
=0D
=0D
=
=0D
=
=0D
=
=0D
=
=0D
=
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
Dave Rains wrote:
> What about that pesky vibration?
Dave and Gang:
Please explain above.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
Possum wrote:
> Now we use the plastic prop "tape" or nothing at all.
> Seems to work Ok on small stuff and stays on if applied right.
> Or buy the nickel leading edges, like John H. says.
Possum and Gang:
Don't feel bad about having problems with IVO prop tape. A
couple years ago, Sun and Fun, I was flying the factory Fire
Fly, equipped with an IVO and SS tape edges. Terrible
vibration/sensation felt in the prop/engine. Got IVO's
number 1 prop mechanic to come over to the Kolb display and
take a look at the tape on the IVO prop which was
releasing. No sweat. He told me he would have me back in
the air in a jif. Several hours later, a seriously cut
finger, several iterations of trying to put the tape on/take
it off and try again, and I was still not in the air.
Finally, he took the tape off and I flew without it. Prop
and engine were once again smooth.
So, if the expert has problems with the SS tape, don't feel
bad if you all have a problem with it.
Only my personal opinion, but the SS tape serves only to
protect the IVO blade from rain/water and maybe a little
sand. Can not see that it would provide any protection from
larger objects, like bolts and screws.
The nickel steel edges on the Warp Drive prop are primarily
for water protection. Even solid carbon fiber will erode
when fed a healthy diet of water for an extended period of
time. Edges of a solid wood prop will go away in a hurry
without protection if rain is encountered.
One of the primary factors in XC flying is not to have
mechanical problems ruin an otherwise good flight. Little
nit picky things like loose prop tape and broken landing
gear can do that. :-)
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bob n <ronoy(at)shentel.net> |
| Subject: | Very Powerful Patriotic Statement |
This is both long--takes abt 7 min@50kbs--and off UL subject, but I
think appropriate for today, Delete if not interested.
This has got to be the most awesome thing I have seen yet...
To All my Brothers and Sisters,
Have a Blessed Thanksgiving
We all do have much to be Thankful for
Click here: http://www.apcnet.com/uh-60/america002.swf
Bob N.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WillUribe(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 11/21/01 8:39:26 PM Eastern Standard Time,
ulflyer(at)airmail.net writes:
> A small hard roller - Honey do you know why the microwave oven cart is
> tilting - (one caster went missing).
Greetings,
Here is a link to a picture of the roller we use for installing the leading
edge tape.
http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/tape/roller.JPG
I no longer use the IVO tape on my IVO prop, I now use vinyl tape.
http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/tape/tape.jpg
Yesterday I replaced my old tires with Aero trainers, it makes all the
difference in the world. They tracks better then the old ones and the
landings are much softer. I will need to readjust my brakes, they not
working so good with the new tires.
I also installed recognition lights. Yesterday evening I was doing some
touch n go's when a Cessna called a left base leg while I was on right
downwind. I could not see the Cessna and he couldn't see me until I turned
on my alternating recognition lights. I installed a 3 way switch, down is
for alternating lights, center is off and up will turn both lights on for
taxing at night.
http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/tape/tires.JPG
Regards,
Will Uribe
El Paso, TX
FireStar II N4GU
C-172 N2506U
http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Eugene Zimmerman <eugenezimmerman(at)dejazzd.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Pilot Report...Sort of |
GeoR38(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> In a message dated 11/8/01 6:24:19 PM Eastern Standard Time, RONATNIK(at)aol.com
> writes:
>
> > PS For fun tonight, I'm going to post my original message on the Yahoo Hawk
> > message board. Those guys are as fanatical as you Kolbers, but with kinda
> > of a gooey, touchy feely twist.
> >
> > Hope it's as much fun as this was.
> >
> > Bob
> >
>
> That's probably because of Chuck S the owner of CGS Hawk....who is not too
> far away from me....and therefore his Hawk was a perfect candidate for me to
> buy instead of Kolb Firestar.
> I chose the Kolb, though, for 5 main reasons probably in this order.
> 1 it was and is foldable ...probably the best folding technique of any ul
> 2 it had a good reputation earned over a long time
> 3. it had the engine mounted higher and more away from the pilot than the
> Hawk therefore was probably quieter and safer in case of a collision
> 4 because of 3, it had one of the biggest props....great for interfacing with
> the medium that has the ability to enable you to go......up
> 4 Homer was Amish.....believed in God, and was probably trustworthy...and
> even designed an aircraft in spite of his religion....which even frowns on
> electricity.which meant to me that he had the same bug that I had....except
> much more profoundly than me.
> It would be interesting if others might share the true reasons they settled
> on Kolb
>
> GeoR38
Well Geo,
I bet Homer would get a big laugh out of reading your post. I'm sure he
does believe in God, and he truly is trustworthy but he would probably
laugh when you say his religion frowns on electricity. I believe Homer
is also a respected and honored member with various leadership positions
in his church. Mennonites and Amish share many of the same spiritual
values, but Homer's church probably utilized electricity since the time
electricity first became available in that part of the country.
It would be a better world if more people would have the integrity and
the ethics of men like Homer Kolb.
|
_____|_____
*============================R============================*
\ /
\ /
(/---\)
\___/
/ \
() ()
Eugene Zimmerman
http://home.dejazzd.com/eugenezimmerman/My%20Fun.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Pilot Report...Sort of |
In a message dated 11/22/01 8:13:58 PM Eastern Standard Time,
eugenezimmerman(at)dejazzd.com writes:
> > That's probably because of Chuck S the owner of CGS Hawk....who is not too
> > far away from me....and therefore his Hawk was a perfect candidate for me
> to
> > buy instead of Kolb Firestar.
> > I chose the Kolb, though, for 5 main reasons probably in this order.
> > 1 it was and is foldable ...probably the best folding technique of any ul
> > 2 it had a good reputation earned over a long time
> > 3. it had the engine mounted higher and more away from the pilot than the
> > Hawk therefore was probably quieter and safer in case of a collision
> > 4 because of 3, it had one of the biggest props....great for interfacing
> with
> > the medium that has the ability to enable you to go......up
> > 4 Homer was Amish.....believed in God, and was probably trustworthy...and
> > even designed an aircraft in spite of his religion....which even frowns
> on
> > electricity.which meant to me that he had the same bug that I
> had....except
> > much more profoundly than me.
> > It would be interesting if others might share the true reasons they
> settled
> > on Kolb
> >
> > GeoR38
>
> Well Geo,
> I bet Homer would get a big laugh out of reading your post. I'm sure he
> does believe in God, and he truly is trustworthy but he would probably
> laugh when you say his religion frowns on electricity. I believe Homer
> is also a respected and honored member with various leadership positions
> in his church. Mennonites and Amish share many of the same spiritual
> values, but Homer's church probably utilized electricity since the time
> electricity first became available in that part of the country.
> It would be a better world if more people would have the integrity and
> the ethics of men like Homer Kolb.
>
> |
> _____|_____
> *============================R============================*
> \ /
\ /
> (/---\)
> \___/
> / \
> () ()
> Eugene Zimmerman
>
Do you mean to say that my main reason for buying Kolb was in error....that
he is not Amish....can't prove it by me, but that is what I always
thought.....or that he is Amish, but I just am ignorant of the Amish
Charactaristics? Believe me, either one of these propositions could be true.
I live in an area where I must slow down for a lot of horse drawn buggies,
and around Chuck Slyzarick or CGS Hawk, there are even more of them than here
in Akron. Maybe they have electricity, but vehicles are usually not
mechanized and seem to be always horse drawn.
GeoR38(at)aol.com
Firestar driver
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: long time no see |
In a message dated 11/13/01 2:42:12 PM Eastern Standard Time,
bilrags(at)earthlink.net writes:
> On my Firestar I need to make the steel landing gear that I started 6
> > months ago, and then it is ready for covering. I will probably be
> > looking at a new project in the not too distant future, but for now,
> > I'm looking forward to getting back to my Firestar.
> >
> > -Ben Ransom
>
Welcome back, Ben, we need you here.
GeoR38
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "JeffandBecky" <jeffandbecky(at)fuse.net> |
I have been introduced into the Kolb world with the purchase of an Ultra
Star. Must say, the gentlemen whom I made the purchase from sold me a
very nice Ultra Star. Along with the purchase came great show of
character and concern for my well being. For some time I have watch the
list and dreaming of owning a Kolb. Even though my goal is a Mark III
Xtra or so, this should be a good start. What a pleasure to strap in
and go have some fun. The Kolb list and flyers have been well
represented by an individual who has great compassion towards flying.
To you my friend thanks for your help.
Jeff
Burlington KY
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | roger.hankins(at)kodak.com |
09:13:04 AM
From: Roger Hankins
Will and listers:
Could you please fill us in on exactly which vinyl tape you are using
(brand name etc.) and who sells it? I too am fed up with the IVO metal
tape. The original that came on my prop lasted for two seasons with no
problems. I decided to replace it because of a few rock dings and have had
trouble ever since. My replacement tapes came from CPS. I thought that
maybe the IVO tape would be better, but it doesn't sound like anyone is
having good luck with it. I looked in the aircraft spruce catalog, but
couldn't decide which tape to get. Any suggestions would be helpful.
Thanks!
Roger in Ashland Oregon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WillUribe(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 11/23/01 9:14:07 AM Eastern Standard Time,
roger.hankins(at)kodak.com writes:
> Could you please fill us in on exactly which vinyl tape you are using
> (brand name etc.) and who sells it?
Unfortunately I can't give you this information because the vinyl tapes were
given to me at Grants Pass, OR by some ultralighters when the prop blade
slung the first metal tape. During the cross country I was carrying the
vinyl tapes around in my backpack. When I took my prop to IVO at Long Beach,
CA for a ding repair, they said they had gotten a bad batch of glue on the
tapes so they gave me extra metal tapes. After the prop slung the
replacement metal tape I took them all off. When I got back to El Paso, TX I
installed the vinyl tapes. Dave installed the extra metal tapes IVO gave me
on his Power Fin prop but had to take them off because they were starting to
slide off.
Sorry,
Will Uribe
El Paso, TX
FireStar II N4GU
C-172 N2506U
http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Bean <slyck(at)frontiernet.net> |
Group, I also asked the list over a year ago about replacement leading
edge tape...with no useable response. I have a warp with the tape edge,
overall in very nice condition with maybe an inch or less a bit frayed
at the tips. --started to carefully peel it and stopped. that stuff was
really on there! So, I guess I'll just replace an even amount at the
tips
of each blade to insure uniformity. Brilliant flash of genius- how about
COLORED tape at the tip glued on with something like hardware store
GOOP. --make it look just like those real airplanes...heh heh BB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
I have a warp with the tape edge,
> overall in very nice condition with maybe an inch or less a bit frayed
> at the tips. BB
Bob and Gang:
IMHO prop tape is not an effective method of protecting the
leading edge of props. However, Warp Drive sends along some
urethane tape, precut to size and shape, with their
unprotected props. I do not know how well this tape works
on a prop, but it works well on the chain stay of my
mountain bike to keep the chain from dinging the 4130 tube.
In 1968, flying TH-55 helicopters at Ft Wolters, TX, during
Primary Helicopter Training, Hughes Aircraft came up with
the idea of using tape to protect the leading edges of the
tail rotors. The tail rotors turned up high rpm which
resulted in rapid errosion of the aluminum leading edges.
The tape worked great for a short time. Usually, one tape
on one of the two tail rotor blades would depart the
aircraft or start to pull loose. The fix in the field was
to pull both tapes completely off, write it up in the log
book, and keep on flying that period.
Again, I do not have a problem with the nickle steel edges.
:-)
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary r. voigt" <johndeereantique(at)uswest.net> |
| Subject: | push to talk switch |
Hello fellow flyers!!! can any of you recommend a good
"ptt" switch that i can use with my icom "ic-A5" radio, or
does it not make any difference. using a telex airman with
ANR. waiting for the ice to form here in mn. so we can go
ski flying.
thanks,
Gary r. voigt
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
From time to time, people have had questions about various engines, and
components. I've often mentioned the site at http://www.sdsefi.com
which is where I got my fuel injection/ignition components, but had
never - till now - looked over the rest of their site. Click on the URL
above, and scroll all the way to the bottom and click on "Aircraft."
Lots of neat info, and you guys interested in Geo's and Suzuki's can
find something there, too. Those who like to build their own components
should look at the "Tech Page/FAQ" page. Fascinating ! ! ! The deeper
I go into their site, the more I find. Great Outfit. Enjoy.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.gogittum.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
This seems to have gotten itself lost, so let's try
again..................
OK guys, Big Question ! ! ! I saved Ray Baker's & Bill George's
messages on their weights per wheel with their Mk III's, for a
representative idea of what to expect. Vamoose is pretty much complete
now, except for the wings, and there's my question...............how
much do the completed wings with flaps & ailerons weigh, (??) and how
much does it change the w & b with them on & off ?? For example, if
your c.g. is at, say, 32%, and you remove the wings, where would the
c.g. be then ?? I'm going to weigh Vamoose tomorrow, to get a rough
idea of how close I came with my engine placement, and that info would
be a great help. Thanks HeavyWeight Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.gogittum.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Roland Lambert" <marotod(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: push to talk switch |
I bought mine from Rob Rollison at AirplaneGear.com
R.lambert
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gary r. voigt" <johndeereantique(at)uswest.net>
Subject: Kolb-List: push to talk switch
>
> Hello fellow flyers!!! can any of you recommend a good
> "ptt" switch that i can use with my icom "ic-A5" radio, or
> does it not make any difference. using a telex airman with
> ANR. waiting for the ice to form here in mn. so we can go
> ski flying.
>
> thanks,
> Gary r. voigt
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Hans van Alphen" <HVA(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 14 Msgs - 11/23/01 |
Hey Lar and gang,
Maybe my figures on my Mark III Extra and BMW engine will help.
Aircraft with 19 lbs fuel, no wings and no gap seal is tail=60, right=235,
left=217.
Aircraft complete with 19 lbs. fuel is tail=70, right=294, left=281,
total=645.
Aircraft with 10 gall.(60 lbs.) and me (196 lbs.) is tail=60, right=389,
left=433.
C.G. is 31.9 , depending on what figure you use for average wingcord which
vary widely in the different Mark III manuals( 58" to 66") for the same wing
and is incorrect in the Mark III Extra manual according to Ray Brown at TNK.
Total empty weight, no gas is 626 lbs.
The weight of the wings and gap seal is 133 lbs.
Would like to hear more on average wingcord for the Mark III and Extra as
there is no standard out there and TNK does not know.
Hans van Alphen
almost done Extra
BMW powered.
>
>OK guys, Big Question ! ! ! I saved Ray Baker's & Bill George's
>messages on their weights per wheel with their Mk III's, for a
>representative idea of what to expect. Vamoose is pretty much complete
>now, except for the wings, and there's my question...............how
>much do the completed wings with flaps & ailerons weigh, (??) and how
>much does it change the w & b with them on & off ?? For example, if
>your c.g. is at, say, 32%, and you remove the wings, where would the
>c.g. be then ?? I'm going to weigh Vamoose tomorrow, to get a rough
>idea of how close I came with my engine placement, and that info would
>be a great help. Thanks HeavyWeight Lar.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Pierzina" <planecrazzzy(at)lycos.com> |
| Subject: | Leading Edge Tape |
Hi Ron,
I put new leading edge tape on my Ivo prop...First, what I did was put a "back
bend" to it... the way I did it was take the leading edge tape and a piece of
small dia. pipe....use the pipe to curl the tape, The reason I put a back bend
in it was so the tape wouldn't stick to the prop before I was ready for it...I
lined up the "Pionts" of the tape on the leading edge, and then I attached it
to the easy flat side first...Then like the instructions said,I used a BRASS
drift punch to rub the SS leading edge slowly...don't get ahead of yourself.
I think it actualy Stretches the material...After take some "SUPER GLUE" and go
all around the outside of the tape,I have heard of people having problems with
their tape peeling off because they didn't go around it with super glue.
I have a three blade IVO prop,I ordered three leading edge tapes, They sent me
four....I have one spare...
Mike in MN , FSII , Fabric stage
---
Sometimes you just have to take the leap
and build your wings on the way down...
Gotta Fly...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Herb Gearheart <herbgh(at)nctc.com> |
Jeff
I am in Scottsville,South central Ky, and am refurbishing an Ultra Star
also. I flew a MkIII before.
Unfortunately I have bogged down with a lot of other things on my plate. I
am ready to rivet the wing fabric and afterwards, begin painting. I am using
the latex/oil base paint method as described on the Sea and Sky web site.
This plane will be my 1600 dollar flyer. I think that is what I will call
it!:-) Herb
JeffandBecky wrote:
>
> I have been introduced into the Kolb world with the purchase of an Ultra
> Star. Must say, the gentlemen whom I made the purchase from sold me a
> very nice Ultra Star. Along with the purchase came great show of
> character and concern for my well being. For some time I have watch the
> list and dreaming of owning a Kolb. Even though my goal is a Mark III
> Xtra or so, this should be a good start. What a pleasure to strap in
> and go have some fun. The Kolb list and flyers have been well
> represented by an individual who has great compassion towards flying.
>
> To you my friend thanks for your help.
>
> Jeff
> Burlington KY
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DMe5430944(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | PTT Switch Gary Voight |
Aircraft Spruce and Specialty has a PTT Switch, economy model for $12.95,
works great . Their phone no. is 877-477-7823.
Don Mekeel FF002
El Paso, Texas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
OK guys, Big Question ! ! ! I saved Ray Baker's & Bill George's
messages on their weights per wheel with their Mk III's, for a
representative idea of what to expect. Vamoose is pretty much complete
now, except for the wings, and there's my question...............how
much do the completed wings with flaps & ailerons weigh, (??) and how
much does it change the w & b with them on & off ?? For example, if
your c.g. is at, say, 32%, and you remove the wings, where would the
c.g. be then ?? I'm going to weigh Vamoose tomorrow, to get a rough
idea of how close I came with my engine placement, and that info would
be a great help. Thanks HeavyWeight Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.gogittum.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "PFI/ACF-RF" <_redhill(at)rose.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 35 Msgs - 09/05/01 |
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary r. voigt" <johndeereantique(at)uswest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: PTT Switch Gary Voight |
Don, thanks for the info, CPS has one for $29.99... i thought that was a
little high for a doorbell switch.
thanks,
Gary r. voigt
DMe5430944(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Aircraft Spruce and Specialty has a PTT Switch, economy model for $12.95,
> works great . Their phone no. is 877-477-7823.
>
> Don Mekeel FF002
> El Paso, Texas
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: PTT Switch Gary Voight |
> Don, thanks for the info, CPS has one for $29.99... i thought that was a
> little high for a doorbell switch.
>
> thanks,
> Gary r. voigt
Gary and Gang:
Any switch will do. All it is doing is closing a circuit to
ground to tell the radio to go xmit mode.
I am not a radio repairman, barely an operator, but I can
hook up adapters for permanently installing handhelds in
aircraft. May take me three or four days to get all the
wires hooked up in the correct places, none use standard
color coding (whatever that is). Don't let those highpriced
UL parts stores take your hard earned money. It is not
uncommon for them to mark up items many many times the fair
market value.
I try to save money by searching better parts and equipment
at other sources. I use primarily marine and automotive
engine instruments. Save a lot and are better quality than
stuff sold by the UL gurus.
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
A while back, I mentioned an article that warned about letting your strobes
sit around without power. The other day, I finally emailed Kuntzleman to
find out for sure what to do about my 5 yr old, never yet installed strobes.
Here's their reply..........................
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: <KEstrobes(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: Strobes
> Hi Larry,
>
> I also read that article. It was taken almost word for word from a
1992
> Whelen service manual. I think that when someone wants to see their name
in
> a magazine attached to an article they should do a little more research.
I
> cannot speak for any other strobe manufacture, but I do know about the
> Kuntzleman line. The article tells you how to rebuild a capacitor by
> applying 75% power. Our strobe drivers have a built in switching
regulator
> so that no matter what the applied voltage is, within its operating
levels,
> the power section will always see the operating designed voltage level.
This
> insures a constant flash frequency and brightness. Our Smart strobes
produce
> that output with an input of 10 to 100 volts, AC or DC. Also, our state
of
> the art design employs a flyback transformer that makes the high voltage
in
> 60 microsecond bursts. This acts as a pumping action for filling the
power
> capacitors rather than a slamming or surge as found in most other systems.
> When a capacitor sits for years, not months, it may need to be reformed.
> This will happen in the Kuntzleman strobe drivers the very first time you
> turn it on. This will take place without you even taking notice. Larry,
I
> suggest you hook up you strobes, go flying, and enjoy your new plane. Let
me
> know when you do and I will start your warranty at that time.
>
>
> Dick Kuntzleman, Pres.
> Kuntzleman Electronics, Inc.
> www.KEstrobes.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: PTT Switch Gary Voight |
| From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com |
Gary,
You can go to Radio Shack and get a 99 cent switch and it will do the
same thing as a $6.99 one. There is no current when switching a PPT on a
radio so it will last a lifetime.
Ralph
writes:
>
>
> Don, thanks for the info, CPS has one for $29.99... i thought
> that was a
> little high for a doorbell switch.
>
>
> thanks,
> Gary r. voigt
>
> DMe5430944(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> >
> > Aircraft Spruce and Specialty has a PTT Switch, economy model for
> $12.95,
> > works great . Their phone no. is 877-477-7823.
> >
> > Don Mekeel FF002
> > El Paso, Texas
> >
>
>
>
=
> [#######----------------------13.9%----------------------------]
>
>
> messages.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 14 Msgs - 11/23/01 |
Hmmm............starting to think I'm blind in one eye, and can't see outa
the other. 1st couple of times I read this, I completely missed the 1st
line, the one that says "no wings, and no gap seal." Thank you Hans, your
numbers give me hope. I'd thought that Vamoose was going to be massively
heavy, but apparently not................ heavy, surely, but still within
reason. Without redrive, starter, or prop - approx <50 lb - and with 3 - 4
gal in the tank, Vamoose weighs: Tail = 71#; Left Wheel = 230#; Right
Wheel = 217#. This is with the tail wheel up on 2 milk crates, (bent strut
and all) and the plane on a slight tilt to the left. Scales agree with my
weight at 195# - very close. Also, the cage isn't covered yet, but that
shouldn't be that much, and it's very close to center of weight. Thanks
to all who replied. Gogittum Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Hans van Alphen" <HVA(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Kolb-List Digest: 14 Msgs - 11/23/01
>
> Hey Lar and gang,
> Maybe my figures on my Mark III Extra and BMW engine will help.
> Aircraft with 19 lbs fuel, no wings and no gap seal is tail=60, right=235,
> left=217.
> Aircraft complete with 19 lbs. fuel is tail=70, right=294, left=281,
> total=645.
> Aircraft with 10 gall.(60 lbs.) and me (196 lbs.) is tail=60, right=389,
> left=433.
> C.G. is 31.9 , depending on what figure you use for average wingcord which
> vary widely in the different Mark III manuals( 58" to 66") for the same
wing
> and is incorrect in the Mark III Extra manual according to Ray Brown at
TNK.
> Total empty weight, no gas is 626 lbs.
> The weight of the wings and gap seal is 133 lbs.
> Would like to hear more on average wingcord for the Mark III and Extra as
> there is no standard out there and TNK does not know.
>
> Hans van Alphen
> almost done Extra
> BMW powered.
> >
> >OK guys, Big Question ! ! ! I saved Ray Baker's & Bill George's
> >messages on their weights per wheel with their Mk III's, for a
> >representative idea of what to expect. Vamoose is pretty much complete
> >now, except for the wings, and there's my question...............how
> >much do the completed wings with flaps & ailerons weigh, (??) and how
> >much does it change the w & b with them on & off ?? For example, if
> >your c.g. is at, say, 32%, and you remove the wings, where would the
November 08, 2001 - November 25, 2001
Kolb-Archive.digest.vol-dg