Kolb-Archive.digest.vol-do
April 20, 2002 - May 16, 2002
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Ken Korenek <ken-foi(at)attbi.com> |
April 20th, 2002
To the members of the Kolb Owners List
Gentlemen,
It is with heavy heart that I inform you that our ranks were thinned
today with the passing of Sam Cox. A giant of a man in both stature
and presence, he was a leading force in the aviation community here in
North Texas. Quick to share his knowledge and offer his hand to those
in need, we are all richer for having had him with us and poorer in his
passing.
While watching the competition at a fly-in sponsored by the D/FW Lite
Flyers, EAA 393, at Ruby Field, north of Fort Worth, Sam suffered a
heart attack shortly after 1 PM and left us very quickly.
Nearing the completion of a FireStar II and getting tired of
watching everyone else fly, Sam was anxious to take wing himself. As
a man of religious conviction, we can take comfort in the fact that
today, Sam finally got to fly.
*********************
Ken W. Korenek
4906 Oak Springs Drive
Arlington, Texas 76016
817-572-6832 voice
817-572-6842 fax
817-657-6500 cell
817-483-8054 home
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "JOHN M. COOLEY" <johnc(at)datasync.com> |
Subject: | Re: c.g. calculation |
Hi Tom and Gang,
My Firestar II is a late 1994 model that I built in 2000/2001. I don't
have my numbers handy but I do remember that my cg was a tad over 37%. 37%
was the max listed by the old Kolb I believe. I was told by a very reliable
source from the old Kolb that during the testing to determine the cg range
that the Kolb Mark III wing was tested as far back as 39% with acceptable
results. I have over 100 hrs on my plane since first flying it last April.
It does fine at 37%. Hope this helps some with your concerns over the cg.
Later,
John Cooley
FS II #1162, 503 DCDI, BRS, EIS etc.
>
> Ken, I used three digital scales, one under each wheel, raised the
> tailwheel off ground until wing was at 9 degrees angle of attack, per
plans.
> Yes, calibrated scales with known weights, scales very accurate, took
> multiple, multiple readings, I just neglected to put the pilot as a
negative
> reading in my earlier post, but I computed it in my c.g. calculations as a
> negative number. Just for the hell of it I computed your c.g. with the
> following numbers that you posted, and came up with the same %c.g. you
did,
> so I'm almost positive I've computed mine right, I realize that my
firestar
> II is within the kolb c.g. limits for this particular aircraft, but I
would
> still like to know how many firestars are flying with the c.g. this far,
or
> near this far aft. I'm using the 35% figure as max aft c.g. or should it
be
> 37%?
>
> Thanks, Tom
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "George Bass" <gtb(at)georgesmail.com> |
Ken;
Your words hit home. I've never heard anyone's passing
spoken more beautifully. Thanks for sharing.
George Bass
USUA ID # 80399
USUA Club # 555
USUA Club # 770
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | ZepRep251(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: c.g. calculation |
Calculate weights with pilot onboard
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | USUA needs our help |
From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com |
Guys,
The USUA is asking for our help in responding to the NPRM. Here is the
website to submit a comment:
http://dmses.dot.gov/submit/ESMenu.asp
All you have to do is copy this below and submit it as a comment. You can
remain anonymous if you wish OR submit your name and email address to
register (this is all that is required). When you continue to submit a
comment, your name is the only thing that appears to the public.
Time is of the essence as the comment period ends May 6th.
Thanks for your help ....
Ralph Burlingame
Original Firestar
15 years flying it
****************************************
Here is what appeared at the USUA website with my added comment to the
FAA:
I would like to adopt the USUA proposed additions to the Sport Pilot
proposal, FAA-2001-11133:
Basic proposal is OK for existing FAA pilots. Overall, the proposal would
be helpful to existing FAA licensed pilots and instructors. Some USUA
members want to increase their flight privileges to include faster
aircraft and overflight of cities. The proposed rule could provide that.
Perhaps the definition of the aircraft which a sport pilot could fly
should be increased enough to include aircraft such as Cessna 150, 152,
Piper Tomahawk, and other common 2-place general aviation aircraft.
Forcing all fat-single and two-seater pilots into higher, further and
faster aircraft is excessive and unnecessary. Many USUA members only want
reasonable regulatory avenue to fly "fat" single and two-place
ultralights for recreation. USUA has repeatedly petitioned FAA about
this. FAAs proposed requirement for every pilot and instructor of fat
single seaters and two-place ultralight trainers go back into training is
simply overkill and an apparent attempt to absorb most ultralighters into
the mainstream of general aviation. Each pilot would have to pass a
comprehensive written test on general aviation rules (parts 61 & 91), an
oral examination and flight test using aircraft which could have top
speeds over 130 mph.
Solution: Two-Tiered Approach What USUA asks FAA to produce instead, is a
two-tiered approach: sport pilot as proposed, and a second tier to
address fat single and two-place ultralights. Just as FAA proposes to
attach a special federal regulation (S-FAR) named Sport Pilot to existing
regulations of parts 61 & 91, USUA proposes that FAA attach another
S-FAR, named Ultralight Aircraft, to part 103 (Ultralight Vehicles). FAA
licensed pilots need to help out with this concept for the good of
aviation even if they intend to keep flying transportation aircraft.
Two-seaters for training and recreation, "fat" single-seaters in essence
brings into a special federal aviation regulation the two-place training
programs, recreational use of two-seaters, and a modestly increased
privileges for H. O. Scale single seaters as has been discussed and
requested for decades. Identical with the S-FAR now proposed by FAA, the
Ultralight Aircraft S-FAR would provide FAA certificates for pilots and
instructors. The written, oral and flight tests would be based on
existing ultralight programs and enforced by FAA. Administration of the
program might be, or might not be, through membership associations. The
operating rules would come from part 103 including prohibition on flights
over congested areas, not into ATC controlled airspace without prior
permission, and no night flyingexactly as ultralight vehicles are
presently limited.
USUA wants part 103 (Ultralight Vehicles) to be left unchanged.
This two-tiered approach encourages the FAA "Sport Pilot" to be finalized
while permitting ultralighters to gain the authority for two-seat
recreation use under the more restrictive ultralight regulation. This
second option is critical for those who want to fly todays ultralights
and do not mind being relegated to rural areas.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: SNF & Inflight Adjustable Props |
Larry & Gang,
I actually did make it to SNF later tuesday, left early wed. Went to a
Suzuki engine forum & checked out the inflight adjustable prop sites. that
was about all I could muster. I'm looking for an inflight adjustable so I
can take advantage of the extra torque availabe with my turbo at cruise rpm.
All accounts tell me Ivo's do not perform well over 90. I had a GSC
inflight adj. prop ($2.2K 4yrs back), they only offer a wood2 blade, it had
mechanical qualities I & others did not like & their ASAP dealershiip is an
origanization I will never deal with again. Arplast seems like the only
other reasonable option. the guy didn't speak English well, but if I
understood him correctly, their beautiful composite 3blade weighs in at
17lbs & goes for $2.3K. Everything else I saw was 25+ lbs & +$4k. If
anyone knows of other options for inflight adjustable props, I would love to
hear about it.
I rode my bicycle in spite of what the rules said. A friend offered me
the use of his electic 3-wheel scooter. SNF people told me I couldn't use
it, but I could rent one of theirs. To stay over for one nite, they charged
me the full price of staying for a full week, no exceptions made. EAA has
turned into a nonprofit organization with a prioity on making $. "It ain't
what it used to be." I still am thankfull though. It may be like legal
extortion but for now, I still can afford to be ripped off for that amount
and I don't know of a better place to meet so many free thinkers &
innovators or to view the cutting edge of aviation.
Steve Green greeted me as I came in and I got to say hello to John Hawk
as I was leaving, didn't get to meet anyone else. Looking forward to a
better next year.
I'm hoping to get back to work on my engine by this summer. ...Richard
Swiderski
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com>
>
> Sorry you couldn't make it to SnF, Richard. Maybe next year. Let me know
how that new toy of yours works out. Lar.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: SNF & Inflight Adjustable Props |
Robert,
No doubt $2.3K is painful but if you put it in the perspective of all
the inflight props on the market it is a real value. Its about 1/5 more
than an Ivo (the cheapest) but its 3-4 times better. Its also lighter &
about 1/2 the price of the next higher prop. Without an inflight adjustable
prop, you'd not get near the potential of a turbocharged engine. Also,
considering the difference between it & a ground adjustable, its the best lb
of thrust per $ investment you could make. And extra thrust on takeoff is
safety & extra thrust at cruise is economy, so you see you can talk yourself
into anything you really want!
...Richard Swiderski
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert Laird" <rlaird(at)cavediver.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: SNF & Inflight Adjustable Props
> > >Richard,
> >
> >Remember $2.3K means $2,300 (K stands for 1000). Pretty expensive prop.
>
> I had an Arplast prop on a trike I used to own... incredible prop...
> -- Robert
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "VIC" <vicw(at)vcn.com> |
I painted my Kolb in my garage. I made a paint room by covering the floor
and hanging heavy clear plastic from the ceiling. Fasten 1x2 lumber to the
ceiling with sheet rock screws (into the studs) and staple the plastic to
1x2. At the floor use a another 1x2 to hold it dow to the floor. Use the
real heavy plastic from Home Depot.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | philip condon <pcondon(at)mitre.org> |
Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: Seeking Shelter - paint reply |
Have you considered vinal graphic applications?? Many aircraft now use
this process and the results are fantastic.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Kirby Dennis Contr ASC/TM <Dennis.Kirby(at)kirtland.af.mil> |
Subject: | Re: seeking shelter |
John Richmond wrote:
< I'm rebuilding my Mk III and am through the basic white painting
process. Unfortunately I've lost my painting facility so cannot finish
the color trim coat(s). >
John -
The portion of your paint job that requires a paint booth is done! I
applied all my trim colors using a 3-inch roller and masking tape with
excellent results. Was able to do it in my garage, one piece at a time, on
saw horses. I used the Poly-Tone process.
Dennis Kirby
Cedar Crest, NM
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Kirby Dennis Contr ASC/TM <Dennis.Kirby(at)kirtland.af.mil> |
Kolb Friends -
Need advice on wiring the strobe light.
I have a Kuntzelman strobe, which I plan to mount on the leading edge of the
vertical fin, near the top. The box unit is mounted under the seat, and I
need to string the strobe wire from the box to the flasher. How have you
guys done this?
My first thought was to simply run the wire thru the 6-inch tailboom tube,
but I'm afraid that the constant movement of the control cables would chafe
thru the strobe wire. Would the FAA be okay with the strobe wire running
along the outside of the boom tube, taped securely to the surface? (Need
the FAA concurrence for an N-number and the airworthiness certificate that
goes with it.)
My other thought was to go ahead and run the wire inside the boom tube, and
protect the wire by putting it in a plastic sleeve. Or, maybe I could duct
tape the wire to the inside of the boom tube, along the sides, for as far as
my arm can reach. Any advice will help.
Thanks -
Dennis Kirby
Mk-3, Verner-1400, beginning taxi-tests next month
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bob Bean <slyck(at)frontiernet.net> |
Group, just finished my brake system and have some info for
those who want to use automotive, dune buggy, sprint car, etc
components (master cylinder) with Matco wheel cylinders.
The o-rings in the matcos are buna-n and incompatible with
DOT3/4 fluid,---ok, so you knew that already.....the simple
and cheap fix is to change out the o-rings to 2-218 EPDM
(ethylene propylene). I spec'd 70 duro which is about the same
as the original. This is glycol compatible and have a better
temperature range than the original. --BB
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Christopher John Armstrong" <Tophera(at)centurytel.net> |
Subject: | Re: Strobe Wiring |
> My other thought was to go ahead and run the wire inside the boom tube,
and
> protect the wire by putting it in a plastic sleeve. Or, maybe I could
duct
> tape the wire to the inside of the boom tube, along the sides, for as far
as
> my arm can reach. Any advice will help.
>
> Thanks -
> Dennis Kirby
> Mk-3, Verner-1400, beginning taxi-tests next month
You are not allowed to use duct tape for anything on an aircraft. this is a
not an FAA regulation just a really good rule of thumb. (Actually I just
hate the stuff, it only sticks for a couple of years and then leaves a
really stick mess, and it is ugly to start with)
What you need are some cable ties holders that attach with a high quality
permanent adhesive. Aircraft spruce has some, called click bond fasteners,
cable tie mount (page 105 in the newest catalog). you get 4 with 5" nylon
ties for $14. bucks. you might be able to find something similar at the
home supply stores for 1/4 the cost. Click bond also makes a fair lead that
might be a good idea for the control cables themselves, but that's another
issue.
Topher
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Gogittum Lar" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
Hey, you a perty sharp feller, Bob.................thanks.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Bean" <slyck(at)frontiernet.net>
Subject: Kolb-List: brakes
>
> Group, just finished my brake system and have some info for
> those who want to use automotive, dune buggy, sprint car, etc
> components (master cylinder) with Matco wheel cylinders.
> The o-rings in the matcos are buna-n and incompatible with
> DOT3/4 fluid,---ok, so you knew that already.....the simple
> and cheap fix is to change out the o-rings to 2-218 EPDM
> (ethylene propylene). I spec'd 70 duro which is about the same
> as the original. This is glycol compatible and have a better
> temperature range than the original. --BB
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Gogittum Lar" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
Subject: | Re: Strobe Wiring |
Great minds run in the same circles, Dennis. Look on my website, for a look
and description of how I did it. Looks and works great.............and
almost exactly what you dreamed up for inside the boom. Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kirby Dennis Contr ASC/TM" <Dennis.Kirby(at)kirtland.af.mil>
Subject: Kolb-List: Strobe Wiring
>
> Kolb Friends -
> Need advice on wiring the strobe light.
>
> I have a Kuntzelman strobe, which I plan to mount on the leading edge of
the
> vertical fin, near the top. The box unit is mounted under the seat, and I
> need to string the strobe wire from the box to the flasher. How have you
> guys done this?
>
> My first thought was to simply run the wire thru the 6-inch tailboom tube,
> but I'm afraid that the constant movement of the control cables would
chafe
> thru the strobe wire. Would the FAA be okay with the strobe wire running
> along the outside of the boom tube, taped securely to the surface? (Need
> the FAA concurrence for an N-number and the airworthiness certificate that
> goes with it.)
>
> My other thought was to go ahead and run the wire inside the boom tube,
and
> protect the wire by putting it in a plastic sleeve. Or, maybe I could
duct
> tape the wire to the inside of the boom tube, along the sides, for as far
as
> my arm can reach. Any advice will help.
>
> Thanks -
> Dennis Kirby
> Mk-3, Verner-1400, beginning taxi-tests next month
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Re: Strobe Wiring |
> > Need advice on wiring the strobe light.
> > Dennis Kirby
Dennis/Gang:
I didn't mount a tail light or tail strobe. Instead used
wingtip strobes and position lights with taillights. Wires
are routed through the main spars (same as tail boom) with
wires layed inside the spar, loose. Don't know why you
could not do that in the tail boom. Elevator and rudder
cables would not interfere with strobe wiring if layed
inside bottom of boom. Mine have been working for a long
time.
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | bob n <ronoy(at)shentel.net> |
Subject: | Re: Strobe Wiring aka Duct tape |
Duct tape had a grandfather in WWII--called "Get 'em Home Tape.
BN
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Strobe Wiring |
From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com |
Guys,
I too have strobes on my wingtips and run the wire loose through the main
spar. It's been operating for 15 years (Illusion Strobes). They are very
bright, unlike myself at times.
Ralph Burlingame
Original Firestar
15 years flying it
writes:
>
>
> > > Need advice on wiring the strobe light.
>
> > > Dennis Kirby
>
> Dennis/Gang:
>
> I didn't mount a tail light or tail strobe. Instead used
> wingtip strobes and position lights with taillights. Wires
> are routed through the main spars (same as tail boom) with
> wires layed inside the spar, loose. Don't know why you
> could not do that in the tail boom. Elevator and rudder
> cables would not interfere with strobe wiring if layed
> inside bottom of boom. Mine have been working for a long
> time.
>
> Take care,
>
> john h
>
>
>
>
> messages.
>
> ===================================
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Gogittum Lar" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
Subject: | Re: Strobe Wiring |
Sonamagun...............took the words right out of my mouth. Actually, for
an alternative, look at my website (again) and see the really CLASSY way to
run the wiring to the wingtips. Ahem ! ! ! Also, I used 4 conductor
computer cable for that. Grounded and shielded..............hope it cuts
any interference from the high voltage strobes. On funny sayings,
tonight I told a guy at work about a boo-boo I made in Idaho last week, (it
were a dandy) and told him that "The only reason I open my mouth is to
change feet." He'd never heard it before, and busted up. Cute. Do
not Archive.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: <ul15rhb(at)juno.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Strobe Wiring
>
> Guys,
>
> I too have strobes on my wingtips and run the wire loose through the main
> spar. It's been operating for 15 years (Illusion Strobes). They are very
> bright, unlike myself at times.
>
> Ralph Burlingame
> Original Firestar
> 15 years flying it
>
> writes:
> >
> >
> > > > Need advice on wiring the strobe light.
> >
> > > > Dennis Kirby
> >
> > Dennis/Gang:
> >
> > I didn't mount a tail light or tail strobe. Instead used
> > wingtip strobes and position lights with taillights. Wires
> > are routed through the main spars (same as tail boom) with
> > wires layed inside the spar, loose. Don't know why you
> > could not do that in the tail boom. Elevator and rudder
> > cables would not interfere with strobe wiring if layed
> > inside bottom of boom. Mine have been working for a long
> > time.
> >
> > Take care,
> >
> > john h
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > messages.
> >
> > ===================================
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | vicw <vicw(at)vcn.com> |
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________________________________________________________________________________
From: | bilrags <bilrags(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Worm Klez.E immunity |
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________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Richmond <twoschmoops(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: seeking shelter |
Hey, I heard about using rollers, any special size or type??
I would rather do that as long as the paint looks OK after rolling!
Thanks for the tip. Just a few more details please. 8-)
--- Kirby Dennis Contr ASC/TM wrote:
>
>
> John Richmond wrote:
>
> < I'm rebuilding my Mk III and am through the basic white painting
> process. Unfortunately I've lost my painting facility so cannot
> finish
> the color trim coat(s). >
>
> John -
> The portion of your paint job that requires a paint booth is done! I
> applied all my trim colors using a 3-inch roller and masking tape
> with
> excellent results. Was able to do it in my garage, one piece at a
> time, on
> saw horses. I used the Poly-Tone process.
>
> Dennis Kirby
> Cedar Crest, NM
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
=====
John & Lynn Richmond :-)
Palm Coast, Fl.
Mk3 582, 41 hrs
http://games.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: seeking shelter |
From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com |
---------- John Richmond writes:
From: John Richmond <twoschmoops(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Re: seeking shelter
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 05:06:40 -0700 (PDT)
Hey, I heard about using rollers, any special size or type??
I would rather do that as long as the paint looks OK after rolling!
Thanks for the tip. Just a few more details please. 8-)
John and others,
Yes, I rolled and brushed my wings and it turned out nice. I get compliments all
the time. I used a low nap roller and one that will stay together with Poly
Fiber (Stits). Roll slowly to keep bubbles from forming. I did not thin the paint
down, used it right out of the can. I brushed the leading edge, front to back,
and rolled the rest. The fuse tube is polished with no paint. I works great!
Ralph Burlingame
Original Firestar
15 years flying it
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | jerryb <ulflyer(at)airmail.net> |
Subject: | Re: Strobe Wiring |
We ran ours in the boom tube. If I recall right we positioned and secured
it at each end so it taught enough where it could not touch to snag on any
of the cables. I'll look the next time I'm at the airport to see exactly
where we positioned it.
jerryb
>
>
>Kolb Friends -
>Need advice on wiring the strobe light.
>
>I have a Kuntzelman strobe, which I plan to mount on the leading edge of the
>vertical fin, near the top. The box unit is mounted under the seat, and I
>need to string the strobe wire from the box to the flasher. How have you
>guys done this?
>
>My first thought was to simply run the wire thru the 6-inch tailboom tube,
>but I'm afraid that the constant movement of the control cables would chafe
>thru the strobe wire. Would the FAA be okay with the strobe wire running
>along the outside of the boom tube, taped securely to the surface? (Need
>the FAA concurrence for an N-number and the airworthiness certificate that
>goes with it.)
>
>My other thought was to go ahead and run the wire inside the boom tube, and
>protect the wire by putting it in a plastic sleeve. Or, maybe I could duct
>tape the wire to the inside of the boom tube, along the sides, for as far as
>my arm can reach. Any advice will help.
>
>Thanks -
>Dennis Kirby
>Mk-3, Verner-1400, beginning taxi-tests next month
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | jerryb <ulflyer(at)airmail.net> |
Subject: | Re: SNF & Inflight Adjustable Props |
><swiderski@advanced-connect.net>
> To stay over for one nite, they charged
>me the full price of staying for a full week, no exceptions made. EAA has
>turned into a nonprofit organization with a prioity on making $. "It ain't
>what it used to be." I still am thankfull though. It may be like legal
>extortion but for now, I still can afford to be ripped off for that amount
>and I don't know of a better place to meet so many free thinkers &
>innovators or to view the cutting edge of aviation.
> ...Richard Swiderski
Richard,
I assume charging you a week refers to the daily camping fee. They collect
the amount for the whole week up front and give you a refund when you check
out if you leave before the last day. Hope you did that?
Oshkosh does that, it works well and they don't have to have monitors
walking the camps. I had no problem with it except they gave your refund
back in the form as a check versus cash even though you paid in cash. Just
have to plan to tie up your money until you get back home where you can
cash the check.
I bet we all would be surprised to learn how many refund checks never get
cashed or what sounds like in your case, refunds not collected when you
leave early.
jerryb
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Re: SNF & Inflight Adjustable Props |
> > To stay over for one nite, they charged
> >me the full price of staying for a full week, no exceptions made.
> > ...Richard Swiderski
> They collect
> the amount for the whole week up front and give you a refund when you check
> out if you leave before the last day. Hope you did that?
> jerryb
Richard/Jerry/Gang:
This must be a change in policy since last year, or I am one
of the uninformed/uneducated masses.
Last year, at Lakeland, cost me $25 per night for four
nights prior to the official start date, the another amount
for the remainder of the week. Very expensive for dry
camping.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: seeking shelter |
From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com |
Hey, I heard about using rollers, any special size or type??
I would rather do that as long as the paint looks OK after rolling!
Thanks for the tip. Just a few more details please. 8-)
I used a low nap roller. For the large areas use a long one and for the tighter
areas use a small one. The nice part about this is that you can repair a rip
easily without spraying. Don't have to worry about over spray.
You can see my pics on Matronics photoshare. There are 2 sets of them.
Ralph Burlingame
Original Firestar
15 years flying it
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: SNF & Inflight Adjustable Props |
Jerry & John,
I called SNF twice before I left because I could believe what their
website said, that if you come in before Wed, the fee for one nite is the
same as it is for a week & no refunds. When I got there I was told the same
thing. But Mike S says there was an overnite facility for for $20 per nite.
All I know for sure is what I read on the EAA SNF site & what they told &
what they charged me. Too bad I didn't talk with Mike before I left!
...Richard S
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Hauck" <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: SNF & Inflight Adjustable Props
>
>
> > > To stay over for one nite, they charged
> > >me the full price of staying for a full week, no exceptions made.
> > > ...Richard Swiderski
>
> > They collect
> > the amount for the whole week up front and give you a refund when you
check
> > out if you leave before the last day. Hope you did that?
>
> > jerryb
>
> Richard/Jerry/Gang:
>
> This must be a change in policy since last year, or I am one
> of the uninformed/uneducated masses.
>
> Last year, at Lakeland, cost me $25 per night for four
> nights prior to the official start date, the another amount
> for the remainder of the week. Very expensive for dry
> camping.
>
> john h
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Timandjan(at)aol.com |
I couldn't believe the pricing either, pay for the week and I camped for 2
nights. Beside that, I got there on Saturday and I had to buy tickets to get
in on Saturday. I didn't want to get into the show, the guy told me I would
have to have an armband to get the campground. I am suprised I didn't have to
get a ticket for my 4 year old.
I don't mind patronizing the EAA, but they don't need to male a killing. Sure
goes to show nice Oshkosh is, hard to believe they are ran by the same
organization.
Oh well it was fun, went to Disney as well, so when you compare the costs
it's really not that bad.
Tim
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | ULDAD <ULDAD(at)aol.com> |
Subject: | Fw:so cool a flash,enjoy it |
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________________________________________________________________________________
From: | DAquaNut(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: SNF & Inflight Adjustable Props |
Jerry B & Gang
Oshkosh makes refunds on unused days of camping. Year before
this I paid $ 80.00 to stay 2 nights, at sun n fun ,or about that. If I go
back I will stay in a private campground. I guess they think we have
unlimited funds. They were even going to charge to ride my scooter in if I
stayed in the dry camping area . At least Oshkosh doesent charge for what you
DONT use.
Nuf Said
Ed Diebel
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Richard Neilsen" <neilsenr(at)michigan.gov> |
Subject: | Re: FireStar II Wing Kit |
Here are two other options that are cheaper and less work. Option one:
beef up the existing ribs like Dennis suggested. Option two: get Kolb to
give you a deal on four ribs and put them between the existing ribs. You
will need to cut the spar attachment flange and drill out some rivets to
slip these ribs in place but it should be fairly easy to do. The weight
of the two additional ribs would be minor. The biggest task would be the
recover job. If I were to buy a plane someone else built I would always
worry about how well it was built or treated. This gives you the excuse
to open the wing and check it out. Just don't give up its well worth the
effort.
My $.02 worth
Rick Neilsen
Redrive VW powered MKIII
>>> ken-foi(at)attbi.com 04/23/02 09:17PM >>>
Hey Kolbers,
I'm the new guy who has a 5 rib wing on a FSII and guess what?
I'm looking for some wings to build or buy.
Anybody know of a set for sale?
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Clay Stuart" <tcstuart(at)adelphia.net> |
Lots of questions:
Finishing my console/instrument panel/arm rest.
1. I am planning on using the Rotax 912, how much should I notch out for
the throttle and choke levers on the arm rest?
It says the throttle cable has a range of 1 1/2" and since the distance
from the bolt to the cable attachment and the
distance to the top of the arm rest is the same- I assume the notch
should be about 1 1/2"+. It doesn't
give the range for the choke.
2. When the throttle and choke are in the closed position, should the
levers be vertical or should they be
vertical at mid-throttle and mid-choke?
3. What is the range of the stick from full up to full down elevator? I
have no elevator stops installed yet, so I can
easily bang the stick into the instrument pod by pushing the stick
forward and to the right. Want to make sure I
have adequate range of motion before I go on with the covering of the
panel.
Thanks,
Clay Stuart
Danville KY
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Terry McCurry <terrymccurry(at)yahoo.com> |
Hi Guys, bought a kolb kolbra in Jan. 2001 and have gotten to the point of attaching
the wings and struts, I do not have a manual or any plans instructing me
on the proper way to do this. i have talked to kolb and they have promised over
and over to send the information,but they say the manuals are still not fully
developed. I am at a stopping point and I definately do not want to do this
wrong! I have talked to Danny a number of times about the year and half delay
and found him to be very unprofessional and even rude at times. Any advice that
could be shared would be greatly appreciated.
thanks T McCurry
864-227-6332
terrymccurry(at)yahoo.com
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "David Hennon" <Dhennon(at)cfl.rr.com> |
Terry,
Thanks, in a way, for the info about customer service w/Kolb. I have been
bouncing back and forth between a Kolb MkIII and a Sonex. You just finalized
my decision.
Dave
Orlando
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Terry McCurry
Subject: Kolb-List: wing attachment
Hi Guys, bought a kolb kolbra in Jan. 2001 and have gotten to the point of
attaching the wings and struts, I do not have a manual or any plans
instructing me on the proper way to do this. i have talked to kolb and they
have promised over and over to send the information,but they say the manuals
are still not fully developed. I am at a stopping point and I definately do
not want to do this wrong! I have talked to Danny a number of times about
the year and half delay and found him to be very unprofessional and even
rude at times. Any advice that could be shared would be greatly appreciated.
thanks T McCurry
864-227-6332
terrymccurry(at)yahoo.com
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Woody <duesouth(at)iname.com> |
Subject: | Re: FireStar II Wing Kit |
>
>
>I contacted Kolb and they can get me a "just wings" kit out promptly
>for about $800 less than a Kit #1. At least with Kolb, I'll know it's
>all there and is all new materials.
>
>What do you guys think- Which way would you go?
I would stick with the wings you have and just go out and have fun.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jeremy Casey" <jrcasey(at)ldl.net> |
Terry,
Thanks, in a way, for the info about customer service w/Kolb. I have
been
bouncing back and forth between a Kolb MkIII and a Sonex. You just
finalized
my decision.
Dave
Orlando
Dave,
I hope you think this decision through. I for one have had nothing but
excellent service from them. (Not excusing a year and a half to get
Terry his drawings...but when you buy a design that is "hot of the
presses" so to speak, that will happen.) I can tell you that Sonex ltd,
took awhile to get "complete" drawings out on the Sonex as well. There
were several builders that had to stop and wait on drawings while
building. Now Sonex, ltd is another great outfit...I know cause I'm
plans holder #410 and yes the drawing package is incredible just like
they claim. There is not a single part that is not drawn in painful
levels of detail in the airplane.
What I'm saying is this...don't make your decision based on just
that...these 2 airplanes are designed for totally different niches'.
The Sonex is fast like the wind for the horsepower, but needs more room
to operate. It is also a bottled up airplane...(i.e no wind in the
face or on the arms except what might leak around a poorly-trimmed
canopy...)
The Kolb is designed for a different mission. Climb like a missile and
haul about whatever you can put in it. And if you want to, you can take
the doors off and catch some breezes.
Choose based on what you want to do. If you want to go 130-150 mph then
go Sonex, cause you'll hate the Kolb. If you want the slower but land
anywhere STOL performance and enjoy some open-air flying if the mood
hits you then go Kolb, cause you'll hate the Sonex.
All planes are compromises, so pick the plane that does the "most" of
what you want to do...
Personally , I want something with the visibility and STOL performance
of a Kolb, and cruise of a Lancair... ;-)
Jeremy Casey
jrcasey(at)ldl.net
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ron or Mary" <ronormar(at)apex.net> |
Subject: | For Terry McCurry |
Terry--I have been trying to e-mail you off list and keep getting the
message back as undeliverable. As I don't post responses on the list any
more and only reply direct to individuals, please contact me off list.=0D
=0D
Ron Payne
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Erich_Weaver(at)URSCorp.com |
04/24/2002 05:48:06 PM
Kolb Listers:
The existing seat belts on my Mrk III suck, and I am evaluating my
replacement options, suitable attachment points and attachment hardware.
I am considering a rather pricey 4-point system with an inertial reel that
is made by Schroth. With respect to attachment points, the two sides of the
lap belt would likely be attached to the landing gear socket. The shoulder
belts would converge into a Y, which would go to the inertial reel and
attach to the square cage tubing directly above and behind the seat.
I am reluctant to drill through the cage and landing gear sockets to make
the attachments, but perhaps brackets that go around these are available.
Could you fine folks comment on my plans and provide any recommendations
before I commit?
Regards,
Erich Weaver
erich_weaver(at)urscorp.com
130 Robin Hill Road, Suite 100
Santa Barbara, California 93117
Tel: 805-964-6010
fax: 805-964 0259
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jeffrey Jones" <jeffrey.jones(at)fuse.net> |
Subject: | For Sale: Ultra Star |
For Sale: Ultra Star
A great flying machine in "excellent" condition. Plane was gone over
last year and has all new fabric, paint and rivets. This Ultra Star has
great cruising and climb performance. A very reliable Ultra Star.
Selling plane for $4900 and trailer for $550. Would consider delivery
for expenses and etc..
Jeff Jones
Burlington KY
jeffrey.jones(at)fuse.net
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Re: For Sale: Ultra Star |
A very reliable Ultra Star.
> Selling plane for $4900 and trailer for $550. Would consider delivery
> for expenses and etc..
>
> Jeff Jones
Jeff/Gang:
Feb 1984, paid Ross Hoffman, Kolb Dealer in Newnan, GA,
$3,495.00 for my first Kolb Kit, an Ultrastar. I probably
had close to $4,900 by the time I got her finished.
john h
hauck's holler, AL
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | SGreenpg(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 4/24/02 5:55:13 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
Erich_Weaver(at)URSCorp.com writes:
> The existing seat belts on my Mrk III suck,
Erich,
Your kit must be at least 3 years old. I canned the old seat belts and
bought the belts that come with the mark III now. It is a 4 point harness
that can wrap around all the attachment points you mentioned without any
drilling.
Steven G.
Mk III 180 hrs.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bob Bean <slyck(at)frontiernet.net> |
Erich, disregarding that you probably have already researched the
belt market pretty well......Hooker also makes the inertia type offered
in the ACS cat. I like the looks of the Y type arrangement, being
a scrawny dude, they would stay on me better. Get a copy of the
JEGS automotive racing cat. --they have some really interesting stuff.
I'm going to order my harness from them. They have G-FORCE
for a reasonable price and if brand names impress you they have
SIMPSON stuff for a bit more. -BB
Erich_Weaver(at)URSCorp.com wrote:
>
> Kolb Listers:
>
> The existing seat belts on my Mrk III suck, and I am evaluating my
> replacement options, suitable attachment points and attachment hardware.
> I am considering a rather pricey 4-point system with an inertial reel that
> is made by Schroth. With respect to attachment points, the two sides of the
> lap belt would likely be attached to the landing gear socket. The shoulder
> belts would converge into a Y, which would go to the inertial reel and
> attach to the square cage tubing directly above and behind the seat.
>
> I am reluctant to drill through the cage and landing gear sockets to make
> the attachments, but perhaps brackets that go around these are available.
> Could you fine folks comment on my plans and provide any recommendations
> before I commit?
>
> Regards,
>
> Erich Weaver
> erich_weaver(at)urscorp.com
> 130 Robin Hill Road, Suite 100
> Santa Barbara, California 93117
>
> Tel: 805-964-6010
> fax: 805-964 0259
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Gogittum Lar" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
I wouldn't want to drill thru them either, Erich. Why don't you make your
own wrap around brackets, out of, say, 1/8" steel ?? If you find a piece of
scrap of the right size, it would be quite simple to heat your bracket, and
bend it around the "mandrel." It would be very strong, and would not
compromise a very critical part of the framework. Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: <Erich_Weaver(at)URSCorp.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: SEAT BELTS
>
>
> Kolb Listers:
>
> The existing seat belts on my Mrk III suck, and I am evaluating my
> replacement options, suitable attachment points and attachment hardware.
> I am considering a rather pricey 4-point system with an inertial reel that
> is made by Schroth. With respect to attachment points, the two sides of
the
> lap belt would likely be attached to the landing gear socket. The
shoulder
> belts would converge into a Y, which would go to the inertial reel and
> attach to the square cage tubing directly above and behind the seat.
>
> I am reluctant to drill through the cage and landing gear sockets to make
> the attachments, but perhaps brackets that go around these are available.
> Could you fine folks comment on my plans and provide any recommendations
> before I commit?
>
> Regards,
>
> Erich Weaver
> erich_weaver(at)urscorp.com
> 130 Robin Hill Road, Suite 100
> Santa Barbara, California 93117
>
> Tel: 805-964-6010
> fax: 805-964 0259
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Hans van Alphen" <HVA(at)bellsouth.net> |
Subject: | Re: Cheap Carb synchronizer - Build your Own |
Hey aviators,
Is engine not running smooth and need to balance your carbs ? Here is a
cheap and safer way to build your own carb synchronizer for less than $5.-
I have used red ATF fluid for visibility.
Look at this site for details www.powerchutes.com/manometer.asp
Hans van Alphen
Mark III Xtra
39 hours
BMW powered.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "M. Domenic Perez" <perezmdomenic(at)plateautel.net> |
Subject: | center-stick taildragger instructor wanted close to New Mexico |
Kolb Gentlemen,
As of about a month ago, I'm a Firestar II owner. Howdy. I'm looking for
an instructor with an appropriate training plane, hopefully closer than 1000
miles from central New Mexico. Any suggestions?
Also regarding the posts a few days ago concerning inflight adjustable
props, I ran across www.proplink.org which sells hubs that work with
Powerfin, and another for Warp props. They are in the 26-2800 dollar range.
I have absolutely no experience with their product-I just noticed their
website.
M. Domenic Perez
perezmdomenic(at)plateautel.net
P.O.Box 435
Vaughn, NM 88353-0435
Home (505)584-2542 voice/fax
Cell (505)799-0413
Firestar II
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | TCowan1917(at)aol.com |
Well, if it were me, I would buy the new wing kit and start working. I would
put the five rib wings up for sale and I will bet there will be a buyer in
short order. There are a lot of five ribbers out there and I am sure one has
been tweeked. That would cut your investment down a little and get someone
else off the ground. ted cowan.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Hans van Alphen" <HVA(at)bellsouth.net> |
Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 27 Msgs - 04/24/02 |
Hey Clay,
Made my slots for the throttle and choke 3 1/4 inches long.
The throttle lever is in vertical position when off.
The choke lever is in vertical position when on.
I can send you pictures if you like.
My stick does not interfere with the instrument pod.
Hans van Alphen
Mark III Xtra
BMW powered
39 hours
>original message
>From: "Clay Stuart" <tcstuart(at)adelphia.net>
>Subject: Kolb-List: Mark IIIXtra
>
>Lots of questions:
>
>Finishing my console/instrument panel/arm rest.
>
>1. I am planning on using the Rotax 912, how much should I notch out for
>the throttle and choke levers on the arm rest?
> It says the throttle cable has a range of 1 1/2" and since the
distance
>from the bolt to the cable attachment and the
> distance to the top of the arm rest is the same- I assume the notch
>should be about 1 1/2"+. It doesn't
> give the range for the choke.
>
>2. When the throttle and choke are in the closed position, should the
>levers be vertical or should they be
> vertical at mid-throttle and mid-choke?
>
>3. What is the range of the stick from full up to full down elevator? I
>have no elevator stops installed yet, so I can
> easily bang the stick into the instrument pod by pushing the stick
>forward and to the right. Want to make sure I
> have adequate range of motion before I go on with the covering of the
>panel.
>
>Thanks,
>Clay Stuart
>Danville KY
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "David Key" <dhkey(at)msn.com> |
Subject: | Lurker with a Prop Question |
Hi no one knows me because I'm a lurker. I have a wooden prop on my Mark III
with a 582 and a b gear box. I just got some money that is burning a hole in
my pocket and I was thinking about getting a new prop. There are many kinds
to choose from and a local expert tells me to get the Powerfin. Whats the
scoop on the props?
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)bcchapel.org> |
Subject: | Re: Lurker with a Prop Question |
Powerfin has many advocates, no detractors, so they must be good.
The guys that have Warp Drive seem to be happy with them as well.
I have an old 2-blade Ivo, 66" and am very satisfied.
(Rotax 532, 2.58:1 B box)
A 3-blade Ivo will give you better acceleration for takeoff, the 2-blade
will give you a better overall speed spread, with lower rpm's at cruise.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>
>Hi no one knows me because I'm a lurker. I have a wooden prop on my Mark III
>with a 582 and a b gear box. I just got some money that is burning a hole in
>my pocket and I was thinking about getting a new prop. There are many kinds
>to choose from and a local expert tells me to get the Powerfin. Whats the
>scoop on the props?
>
>MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
>http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
>
>
>---
>Incoming mail is certified Virus Free.
>Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
---
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Ken Korenek <ken-foi(at)attbi.com> |
Subject: | For Sale: FireStar 5 Rib Wings |
For Sale:
A really nice set of 5 rib wings rated for 550 pounds gross
weight. They were built by Lite Speed Aviation in the fall of 1999 and
have 30 flight hours on them. Painted gloss yellow with the classic
Kolb outboard striping, they have been hangared (or stored in a trailer)
for the full life.
Surfaces have one small (1/2 inch) ding on the top left wing center,
same on top left aileron and right wing has one ding by the fold bracket
from missing the tube during folding. Dings were temporarily repaired
with yellow tape. Otherwise, they are in above average condition.
I am replacing them with a set of 7 rib wings to carry an XL sized
pilot.
LSA did a really good job- the fabric work is very tight and
smooth. Large ailerons.
Pictures available on request.
Contact me off list- e-mail or any of the numbers below.
*********************
Ken W. Korenek
4906 Oak Springs Drive
Arlington, Texas 76016
817-572-6832 voice
817-572-6842 fax
817-657-6500 cell
817-483-8054 home
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Fatal Kolb Crash In Indiana |
From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com |
Does anyone know anything about this crash?
Ralph
*********************************************
THE ULTRALIGHT THAT CRASHED IN INDIANA WAS NOT A TRIKE; IT WAS A KOLB
ULTRALIGHT. I AM ONLY ABOUT 5 MIN. FROM THE AIRPORT WHERE IT HAPPENED,
AND HAVE SEEN THE PLANE UP CLOSE, AND TALKED TO THE DECEASED PILOT ON
DIFFERENT OCCASIONS. NO DETAILS ABOUT THE CAUSE OF THE ACCIDENT YET.
An ultra-light aircraft crashed Tuesday night just short of a runway at
the Randolph County Airport, killing the pilot. Brook Fleming, 44, was
said Fleming, who was flying alone, suffered head and chest injuries.
Witnesses saw Fleming's aircraft "dip to the left, then go down," said
Ken Hendrickson, chief deputy of the Randolph County Sheriff's
Department. The aircraft was apparently about 100 feet in the air when it
began its fatal plunge, he said.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
the shockcord adjustmet for the stick. Simple is good.
Talked with BRS about the hair cell
> plastic and they or the tech I was talking with did not seem to know anything
about it. Do
> you have a name of someone there? Bob Currie
Bob/Gang:
Try Dan Johnson.
Seems everybody at BRS would know about haircell plastic,
but one never knows. I guess every organization has their
own internal problems.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Re: Value of 5 rib wings |
> Anybody got an idea of how much an above average set
of 5 rib wings
> built by Lite Speed Aviation is worth?
> Ken W. Korenek
Ken/Gagn:
Why not ask Litespeed what they would charge you to build
them.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Dave Rains <rr(at)htg.net> |
Subject: | Lurker with a Prop Question |
Stick with the PowerFin. Warp Drive is probably stronger, but a three blade has
too much moving mass for a B-box. Good luck,
Dave Rains
El Paso
-----Original Message-----
From: David Key [SMTP:dhkey(at)msn.com]
Subject: Kolb-List: Lurker with a Prop Question
Hi no one knows me because I'm a lurker. I have a wooden prop on my Mark III
with a 582 and a b gear box. I just got some money that is burning a hole in
my pocket and I was thinking about getting a new prop. There are many kinds
to choose from and a local expert tells me to get the Powerfin. Whats the
scoop on the props?
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dale Sellers" <dsellers(at)sgtcollege.org> |
I'm a lurker also but I enjoy reading the list every day. I am rebuilding a
Ultra Star and have asked many questions off list. John Hauk and John
Anderson mostly. John Anderson went to the trouble of copying his engine
manual and construction manual and sending them to me. Thanks all you guys
for your help.
Dale Sellers
Georgia
do not achieve
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dale Sellers" <dsellers(at)sgtcollege.org> |
-----Original Message-----
From: Dale Sellers [mailto:dsellers(at)sgtcollege.org]
Subject: Lurker
I'm a lurker also but I enjoy reading the list every day. I am rebuilding a
Ultra Star and have asked many questions off list. John Hauk and John
Anderson mostly. John Anderson went to the trouble of copying his engine
manual and construction manual and sending them to me. Thanks all you guys
for your help.
Dale Sellers
Georgia
do not achieve
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Richard Neilsen" <neilsenr(at)michigan.gov> |
Subject: | Re: Prop bolt tork value? |
I'm not sure I heard a response for your question.
I would really check with the prop manufacturer. There are published
torque specifications on bolts that are all over the place depending on
their grade. First get the size and grade of bolt the prop maker
recommends then torque it by their recommendation. The bolts I use are
capable of being torqued way more than Power Fin recommends. If you have
a prop with a wood hub you need to release wait a day then retorque the
prop with every change of season. I failed to do the retorque one spring
with my old Weedhopper and I sheered off the prop bolts in flight. I
felt it get loose less than a mile from home and I didn't make it with
the prop attached.
As for being a Texan we will not hold that against you.
Rick Neilsen
Redrive VW powered MKIII
>>> mlsharp_1(at)hotmail.com 04/25/02 04:17PM >>>
Ken Korenek wrote:
I'd sure like to hear what ya'll (sorry- I'm a Texan) think
Ken,
Don't ever appologize... Remember there are 2 types of people. Those
of us
who are from Texas and those who wish they were....!
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | <gdledbetter1(at)fuse.net> |
Subject: | Almost Engine Out |
Folks,
This started out to be a great day. The sunshine was bright and
temperature around 60 which engine, prop, and wings really like.
So I drove to the airport, assembled the Firefly, and attacked the sky.
Flew over to a friend's place where he has a new hangar and his own
strip. I normally land if the door is open and merely buzz if door is
closed.
The door was closed today and as I powered up to climb back to
altitude, the engine started losing power and the drop in speed was
very quick so I immediately pointed the nose down and pulled the
throttle back.
With throttle somewhat retarded, the engine picked up again, so I
tried to add power and had the same power loss again. Fortunately, I
had already started a GENTLE turn and the retarded throttle gave
enough power to make the 360 and land.
My friend finally got home and allowed me to store the Firefly in his
hangar. I then called my daughter in law who came the 50 miles
from Cincinnati to pick me up and return me to my car and trailer. I
will drive over with the trailer and make the pickup in the morning.
This raises the question of what should I do to resolve this problem.
The engine has 85 hrs and I did the visual inspection at 55 hours
and planned on doing my first decarbon at 100 hours.
Today's problem definitely seemed to me to be fuel supply related.
However, after giving this further thought, my current plan is to do the
decarbon now as well as replace the fuel pump and fuel lines. The
currently pump and lines are only 5 months old but line and pumps
are cheap.
Looking for other suggestions in addition to these steps and look
forward to constructive criticism of this plan.
Sure felt good that this happened so close to a landing strip.
Gene Ledbetter
Cincinnati, OH
Firetly 85 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Re: Almost Engine Out |
Looking for other suggestions in addition to these steps and look
forward to constructive criticism of this plan.
Sure felt good that this happened so close to a landing strip.
Gene Ledbetter
Cincinnati, OH
Firetly 85 hrs
Gene/Gang:
Glad it turned out ok.
Yep, sounds like a fuel problem.
If it were me and my airplane:
1. Check float bowl for water and trash. Even the smallest amount of trash/water/sludge
is enough to partially block the main jet and cause power loss. There
is a fence in the float bowl that keeps water and other crude out of the little
main jet well in the bottom of the float bowl. Sometimes we get too much
junk in the bowl and it goes over the fence and into the main jet well. This
happens on all Bing carbs whether two or four stroke. The little screen in
the well is for keeping air bubbles out of the main jet well rather than keeping
out dirt and/or water.
2. Check fuel filter. If it is plugged, partially or completely, change it for
a new one. Never use a filter with a paper element. Moisture and paper fuel
filters are hazardous to ultralights and light planes.
3. Make sure the primer bulb is in new condition. Any question, change it out.
Get one at Walmart by Atwood in the marine parts section. Best yet, replace
the bulb with an electric pump.
4. Chances are the fuel pump is fine. Before spending money for it, tie the airplane
securely and run it up. Let it run wide open and cruise rpm for 5 or
10 minutes. This should tell you if your problem has been taken care of or should
you dig further.
5. If you have to dig further, make sure the vent hole in the fuel tank is clear.
6. No air leaks in the fuel lines. Some tiny ones never put me down, that I know
of.
7. As a last result, change out the fuel pump. If you don't need a new one, but
already have bought one, keep it until you do. Usually, fuel pump housings
do not wear out, but the diaphrams do. I used to always keep an extra diaphram
for a spare. Make sure it is genuine Mikuni.
8. If the above does not work, sell the two stroke and buy a 912. :-)
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Almost Engine Out |
From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com |
> The door was closed today and as I powered up to climb back to
> altitude, the engine started losing power and the drop in speed was
>
> very quick so I immediately pointed the nose down and pulled the
> throttle back.
>
> With throttle somewhat retarded, the engine picked up again, so I
> tried to add power and had the same power loss again. >
> Gene Ledbetter
> Cincinnati, OH
> Firetly 85 hrs
Gene,
First, check your fuel filter to see if it's clogged. Second, take off
the exhaust manifold and check for stuck rings by spraying Seafoam into
them and taking a non-metallic stick and poking them to see if they are
loose.
If the above looks good, then replace the fuel lines, filter, and pump.
I had the same thing happen to me many years ago and it turned out to be
a clogged filter. Always use a large filter that has a lot of surface
area so it won't clog as easily. I get mine from Champion Auto parts
stores and they are about $3.50 each.
Hope this helps ....
Ralph Burlingame
Original Firestar
15 years flying it
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | b young <byoung(at)brigham.net> |
Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 13 Msgs - 04/22/02 |
<<<<<
Good to hear from you. How goes your repairs?
john h
>>>>>>
well if i had started sooner i would have been done by
now....... getting ready to prime and recover the cage.
boyd
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | b young <byoung(at)brigham.net> |
Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 20 Msgs - 04/23/02 |
<<<< hanger flying with noise and turbulence brought
memories and a smile to my face.
It's amazing what grown men will do!>>>>>
no grown men here..... big boy toys!!!!!!!
boyd
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jim" <flykolb(at)carolina.rr.com> |
Subject: | Re: Almost Engine Out |
Gene,
Suggest you do what Ralph said plus, if you have a squeeze bulb, either
eliminate it or bypass it. Similiar thing happened to me last year. I could
not pin down the actual cause, so I did the whole nine yards - checked the
rings, replaced all fuel lines, pulse line, filter, cleaned the gas tanks,
eliminated the squeeze bulb, cleaned the air filters, replaced the plugs.
Have been flying a full year with no repeat problem. But I am more aware of
potential landing spots at all times.
Jim
Charlote, NC
Mark III
----- Original Message -----
From: <ul15rhb(at)juno.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Almost Engine Out
>
>
>
> > The door was closed today and as I powered up to climb back to
> > altitude, the engine started losing power and the drop in speed was
> >
> > very quick so I immediately pointed the nose down and pulled the
> > throttle back.
> >
> > With throttle somewhat retarded, the engine picked up again, so I
> > tried to add power and had the same power loss again. >
> > Gene Ledbetter
> > Cincinnati, OH
> > Firetly 85 hrs
>
> Gene,
>
> First, check your fuel filter to see if it's clogged. Second, take off
> the exhaust manifold and check for stuck rings by spraying Seafoam into
> them and taking a non-metallic stick and poking them to see if they are
> loose.
>
> If the above looks good, then replace the fuel lines, filter, and pump.
>
> I had the same thing happen to me many years ago and it turned out to be
> a clogged filter. Always use a large filter that has a lot of surface
> area so it won't clog as easily. I get mine from Champion Auto parts
> stores and they are about $3.50 each.
>
> Hope this helps ....
>
> Ralph Burlingame
> Original Firestar
> 15 years flying it
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Woody <duesouth(at)iname.com> |
Subject: | Re: wing attachment |
>
>Went to Oshkosh for a day after TNK took over - couldn't have been more rude
>or cared less. Sounds like they had the same attitude at Sun n Fun. My parts
>are a long time coming vs. the old service.
Whenever I needed parts I would just call Sue and she would have them
in the mail the next day. Now she is gone but I don't need any more parts
so I don't know what customer service is like now but TNK had good service
2 years ago.
If anyone has Sue's new email please send it to me off list.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Woody <duesouth(at)iname.com> |
Subject: | Re: Lurker with a Prop Question |
>
> >my pocket and I was thinking about getting a new prop. There are many kinds
> >to choose from and a local expert tells me to get the Powerfin. Whats the
> >scoop on the props?
Theoretically if the engine is spinning at around 6300 full throttle
then the wood prop will be the best performer. If nothing is wrong with the
prop keep it. To make a ground adjustable prop compromises are made in the
design. I have always flown warps and they perform good for me but I do not
have experience flying in front of other designs.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Almost Engine Out |
From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com |
Thanks Jim for mentioning to bypass the primer bulb. I forgot about that.
Thanks John Hauck for mentioning junk in the float bowl. Adding a bypass
around the bulb adds one more cheap trouble-free thing to help keep that
little hummer from quitting up there.
I had a blade of grass in the bottom of the float bowl once that caused
me to abort. I got 50' in the air and it wasn't revving beyond 4500 rpm.
Lucky for me that day, I decided to taxi all the way back to the very end
of the 2500' runway. When I saw that I could not climb, I aborted and had
plenty of room to land. I got out, removed the float bowl, and saw a
blade of grass at the bottom. I dumped the fuel in the bowl, filled it up
again, and dumped it.
I taxied back, took off and flew the rest of the day without a problem.
How did that blade of grass get in there? I think it's because it clung
to outside and when I took the bowl off sometime before I flew that day,
it dropped inside with seeing it. It might help to clean the outside off
with a paper towel before removing the bowl or double check the inside of
it.
Had I not taken the time to taxi back to the end of the runway, I would
have been in the powerlines at the opposite end. After that experience, I
take pleasure leaving as much runway ahead of me as possible.
That blade of grass was tiny. It doesn't take much to ruin a good day.
Ralph Burlingame
Original Firestar
15 years flying it but grounded today with rain and snow in good 'ol
Minnesota.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ron or Mary" <ronormar(at)apex.net> |
Just ran the CG on my FireStar. Just finishing it up.. The CG is at between
34% and 35% depending on where I place the battery. I can't seem to get in
away from the aft limit unless I were to add a lot of lead in the nose. Is
this normal for a FireStar?
Ron
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Clive Hatcher" <clive_hatcher(at)lineone.net> |
Subject: | Lurker with a Prop Question |
Dave and David,
I have a Mk III with a 582/B box and use an
Arplast Three Blade Prop. This is made in France
and has a rotating mass within the 'B' box range.
It is a good prop. but the downside is it is
expensive. I believe there is a US agent.
Clive Hatcher MkIII/582 UK
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On
Behalf Of Dave Rains
Subject: RE: Kolb-List: Lurker with a Prop
Question
Stick with the PowerFin. Warp Drive is probably
stronger, but a three blade has too much moving
mass for a B-box. Good luck,
Dave Rains
El Paso
-----Original Message-----
From: David Key [SMTP:dhkey(at)msn.com]
Subject: Kolb-List: Lurker with a Prop
Question
Hi no one knows me because I'm a lurker. I have a
wooden prop on my Mark III
with a 582 and a b gear box. I just got some money
that is burning a hole in
my pocket and I was thinking about getting a new
prop. There are many kinds
to choose from and a local expert tells me to get
the Powerfin. Whats the
scoop on the props?
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print
your photos:
http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
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________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Clive Hatcher" <clive_hatcher(at)lineone.net> |
Subject: | Almost Engine Out |
Gene and Gang,
I agree with all John's points and would also
add - check / replace the pulse line and
fasteners.
If all this fails as a long shot check the
flexible coupling between the carburettor and
engine for air leaks.
Best of luck,
Clive Hatcher MkIII / 582 UK
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On
Behalf Of
hawk36(at)mindspring.com
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Almost Engine Out
Looking for other suggestions in addition to
these steps and look
forward to constructive criticism of this plan.
Sure felt good that this happened so close to a
landing strip.
Gene Ledbetter
Cincinnati, OH
Firetly 85 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Re: Almost Engine Out |
> If all this fails as a long shot check the
> flexible coupling between the carburettor and
> engine for air leaks.
> Clive Hatcher MkIII / 582 UK
Hi Clive/Gents:
Two good points I forgot. That's where two or more heads
are better than one. Pulse lines have caused many pilots
grief. Also the carb sockets.
Good to hear from you. We had a ball at Lakeland. I really
enjoyed being able to meet personally with everyone,
especially our two international visitors/List Members:
Johan and Clive
I was lucky enough to spend a great deal of time with both
of them. Sometimes one at a time and then I had both of
these foreigners at the same time. We had a ball. Learned
to eat BBQ and say ya'll. :-)
Understand from the EAA Hotline this morning that an
Icelandic 747-200 is bringing a load of international
visitors from Europe to Oshkosh 2002. Do not think I will
be there for this one. I am planning on pulling the old 5th
wheel with the old Dodge/Cummins back to Canada and Alaska
this summer. Best way I know to beat the heat.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "VIC" <vicw(at)vcn.com> |
Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 11 Msgs - 04/26/02 |
Is there a data base of Kolb accidents? In the interest learning from
other's experience, it may be worthwhile to catalog all Kolb related
accidents and their suspected cause.
Vic
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bob Stripes" <stripes(at)voicenet.com> |
Hey Vic,
Probably hard to catalogue all the accidents of Kolb
ultralights. Of the ones I've read about, seems to me most have a good
deal to do with pilot error, or builder errors (like using aluminum
rivets instead of steel on the wing strut mounts). I haven't heard of
any airframe failures. (except for the one done on purpose...!)And
someone feel free to correct me if I say the FAA didn't get involved in
ultralight accidents early on. But if you find a way, tell me please.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | jerryb <ulflyer(at)airmail.net> |
Subject: | Re: Almost Engine Out |
Had a similar thing happen to a friend with his 503.
First is there any change you might have developed a little carb ice. It
can happen on two strokes also.
Second, a Rotax can load up so when you go to full throttle it stumbles or
quits as in my friends case. You need to keep clearing your engine (shot
of throttle) when your buzzing.
Last put a bypass around that squeeze bulb. Had a friend experience his
first engine out when the check value in it stuck and he didn't have a
by-pass installed.
The Rotax can be a very quiet engine at times. Luckily he was on down
wind when it happened.
As a closing note, there are two type of blue fuel line, one by Bing that
is alcohol resistant and the cheap stuff that gets hard and brittle. The
Bing brand is repeatedly marked along it's entire length.
jerryb
>
>Folks,
>
>This started out to be a great day. The sunshine was bright and
>temperature around 60 which engine, prop, and wings really like.
>
>So I drove to the airport, assembled the Firefly, and attacked the sky.
>Flew over to a friend's place where he has a new hangar and his own
>strip. I normally land if the door is open and merely buzz if door is
>closed.
>
>The door was closed today and as I powered up to climb back to
>altitude, the engine started losing power and the drop in speed was
>very quick so I immediately pointed the nose down and pulled the
>throttle back.
>
>With throttle somewhat retarded, the engine picked up again, so I
>tried to add power and had the same power loss again. Fortunately, I
>had already started a GENTLE turn and the retarded throttle gave
>enough power to make the 360 and land.
>
>My friend finally got home and allowed me to store the Firefly in his
>hangar. I then called my daughter in law who came the 50 miles
>from Cincinnati to pick me up and return me to my car and trailer. I
>will drive over with the trailer and make the pickup in the morning.
>
>This raises the question of what should I do to resolve this problem.
>
>The engine has 85 hrs and I did the visual inspection at 55 hours
>and planned on doing my first decarbon at 100 hours.
>
>Today's problem definitely seemed to me to be fuel supply related.
>However, after giving this further thought, my current plan is to do the
>decarbon now as well as replace the fuel pump and fuel lines. The
>currently pump and lines are only 5 months old but line and pumps
>are cheap.
>
>Looking for other suggestions in addition to these steps and look
>forward to constructive criticism of this plan.
>
>Sure felt good that this happened so close to a landing strip.
>
>Gene Ledbetter
>Cincinnati, OH
>Firetly 85 hrs
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Gogittum Lar" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
Well, the things ya find ! ! ! While researching back-up sensors for
my new truck, I ran into something that I've seen several people ask
about over the years..................fingertip control of accessories
and/or functions. Most use the "fighter" style grip, with various
switches. Here's an (expensive) alternative, that you could mount
anywhere. Use your imagination......... Go to www.genosgarage.com
and click on the link to "Dodge Cummins Diesel Truck Accessories." When
that page opens, go down to, and click on, the 6th bullet - "Dodge Turbo
Diesel - Electrical Accessories." On that page, go down to, and click
on the 8th bullet - " Steering Wheel Accessory Commander." Spendy, but
cool...........no, I'm not gonna buy one, but what I am gonna buy is at
the 6th bullet on that page - "Parking Partner." The Ford Diesel I test
drove had a similar system, and it REALLY worked. This is even better.
My new baby is awful big, long & tall, and will be worse with the camper
on board. John, this would work great on the back of yer 5'er.
Gogittum Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.gogittum.com
________________________________________________________________________________
Run 100:1 Amsoil at 80:1 per instructions on new qt.
bottles ---for ultra-light "kit"type airplanes
Duane Zollinger
fs2503
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Christopher John Armstrong" <Tophera(at)centurytel.net> |
Many use the 100:1 Amzoil, but I
> remain at 50:1 Klotz. I would think that either of the two types of
> Amzoil synthetics would be fine.
I have the oil injection system on my 503, and am getting ready to run the
motor for the first time since I received it. it had its break in and about
5 hours with the previous owner, before his incident. The oil injector
varies ratio from low to higher depending on throttle, so what synthetic oil
wold you recommend in the oil tank, as opposed to premixed? should I premix
and used the injection for first tank... since this isn't a raw engine I'm
not sure, but the motor has been sitting around a long time now.
I am putting the fuel system together now. I got an ASC gascolator from
Aircraft Spruce and was a bit disappointed. there was a large metal shaving
just barely attached to the inside of the primer port threads, and the
primer port is installed on the unfiltered side, which doesn't make much
sense to me. Will still probably use it but why would they not put the
primer port after the filter and the water separator? Also got my Facet
pump, from Aircraft Spruce and it is a dense little thing! Originally I was
going to go for the parallel fuel lines but it is hard to argue with John
H's years of success with them in series, and it is simpler and liter which
is always good. Also getting one of the primers to make starting easier
when its cold here. ( 1" of snow last night... April 27th for goodness
sake, that's weird even for here.) I thought about putting in a two way
valve after the E-pump and running primmer line from one side of that. then
to prime, with the valve to prime, turn on the E-pump for a second or so
then with the valve back and pull the cord. What do you guys think of
that?
Topher
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | John Ballantyne's comment |
From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com |
PERSONAL RESPONSE TO THE SPORT PILOT NPRM
John Ballantyne
April 27, 2002
Docket Management System
U.S. Department of Transportation
Room Plaza 401
400 Seventh St., SW
Washington, DC 20590-0001
Re: Certification of Aircraft and Airmen for the Operation of Light-
Sport Aircraft; Proposed Rule
Docket No. FAA-2001-11133; Notice no. 02-03
Commentors background
I have been involved in aviation all of my life of 56 years. My
father and mother flew and we always had a family plane. I first
soloed an airplane (Cessna 140) when 16 years old in 1962.
I began hang gliding in 1977 and shortly thereafter became part owner
of the dominant hang glider training school in southern California.
For 3 years I taught ground school and primary flight training, and
managed the facility at Playa del Rey, California.
Circa 1979 the United States Hang Gliding Association (USHGA) formed
a Powered Hang Glider Division for which I became a ground and flight
instructor. Also for USHGA, John Lake and I conducted USHGA Powered
Hang Glider Instructor seminars (ICP). In 1979 I was president of the
Southland Hang Gliding Club which was the forerunner of the United
States Hang Gliding Association.
In 1980 I founded, owned and operated UltraSport, Inc., the first
full service flight training and retail center for powered ultralight
aviation in the Los Angeles area. I authored flight instructing
programs and techniques including a tethered flight simulator that
were publicized throughout the aviation industry. During this time I
became one of the first FAA Safety Counselors for powered ultralights.
Based on my experience and industry notoriety, the Experimental
Aircraft Association invited me to be the founding president of their
Ultralight Division circa 1982-1984. I served in that volunteer role
until shortly before EAA closed the division in 1984.
At AOPA Air Safety Foundation I wrote the original FAA recognized
ultralight pilot/instructor training program from which all others
have been derived. This was shortly after the issuance of FAR Part
103 (Ultralight Vehicles). There was close cooperation with FAA
Flight Standards and FAA Accident Analysis.
I am the founder and past president of the United States Ultralight
Association, Inc., the largest association devoted entirely to
ultralight aviation in the world. On behalf of USUA I have written
many petitions and exemption requests to FAA and developed member
support programs of all kinds.
I have served on the Board of Directors for the National Aeronautic
Association for over 10 years.
USUAs highest honor, the John Moody Award for outstanding
contribution to ultralight aviation, was awarded to me in 1995.
I am privileged to have received in 1999 the highest international
microlight award, the Colibri Diploma as "the pre-eminent leader for
ultralight and microlight aviation in the United States for 27
years." Only three other individuals have ever received a Colibri
Diploma, and I am the only American.
My certificates include FAA commercial pilot and instructorglider
and private privileges for airplane (ASEL) with an instrument rating,
USHGA Master hang glider pilot/instructor, aero-towing exemption
holder, and seminar presenter, AOPA Air Safety Foundation ultralight
pilot, instructor, seminar presenter and USUA Ultralight Flight
Instructor #1 and seminar presenter.
I am the only individual to have received an FAA Commercial and
Flight Instructor certificate by flying a trike (weight-shift
control).
I am the only individual who participated in every ARAC meeting from
which Sport Pilot (NPRM 11133) has come. (Even the primary FAA
representative missed a couple.)
Finally, I care deeply about ultralight-type aviation, hang gliding
and soaring, and hope to not only influence FAA but to influence
others, too. Please consider my comments and agree in writing to FAA
on those points you find validespecially the two-level approach. It
will take many comments to sway FAA to draw the ultralight exemptions
into a second Special FAR, so I invite you join with me.
Historic Overview
FAA has made numerous attempts to resolve regulatory problems
associated with their inability to keep up with the growing interest
in air sports aviation in general, and ultralight aviation in
particular. I have observed and participated in the development of
these regulatory attempts by FAA including Ultralight Vehicles,
Recreational Pilot, Primary Category Aircraft, Sport Plane and now
Light Sport Aircraft/Sport Pilot. In the past 15 years FAA organized
research groups (paid by public funds) including a major regulatory
review by Booze Allen Hamilton in 1988-1989 and the Aviation
Rulemaking Advisory Committee (ARAC) Ultralight Working Group from
1993-1999.
In every case so far FAA has repeatedly (and admittedly) missed the
regulatory need. This is simply because they do not comprehend the
nature of the aviation segment they are trying to regulate. Over the
past 30 years the convenience of jet powered commercial aircraft,
combined with a vastly improved roadway system for modern
automobiles, has gradually eroded the perceived utility of the four-
place family airplane.
At the same time the evolutionary trend has gradually increased the
relative value of aviation sports where participants choose craft
that often appear unconventional but fly well and are too slow to be
used for reliable transportation. They are for fun flying. They cost
no more than their motorized counterparts in water and land sports.
Flying, especially at slow speeds and in open cockpits, is
tremendously rewarding. It is like you are flying. This trend is not
a reinvention of airplanes so much as an expansion of recreation. It
is intensely personal.
When allowed to let go of an unspoken need to regulate aviation as a
transportation utility, the practical side of the regulatory approach
changes. Risk management is different for pilots slow speed and low
inertia aircraft. Danger tends to develop more slowly allowing the
pilot to take corrective action based on a thought process more than
relying on checklists. Therefore ultralight pilot training programs
weight the decision-making process more than the emergency checklist
type of approach required when flying relatively fast, heavy aircraft.
FAAs focus on transportation is precluding a clear view of the issues
in air sports. NPRM 11133 says in part, "**There is uncertainty as to
what extent the NTSBs database has fully captured those accidents
involving
unregistered light-sport aircraft over the past 10 years... There is
uncertainty as to what extent these exemption holders databases have
fully captured those accidents for unregistered light-sport aircraft
over the past 10 years... Because the accident databases listed above
may not capture all relevant accidents, the potential safety benefits
estimate for light-sport aircraft may be understated."
The existing regulatory system does not provide for a reasonable path
of entry and progressive development for ultralight/microlight pilots
and instructors. The result is safety problems that are hidden from
statistical analysis because FAA and NTSB ignore most microlight
accidents (i.e. experimental-aircraft-with-ultralight-operating-
characteristics). This is a serious matter. Some individuals have
unnecessarily died because the reporting systems have failed to
reveal common causes of accidents from which others could learn and
improved regulatory programs created. It also prevents a reasonable
business environment on which to base an industry. The cost of being
unresponsive to this evolutionary trend is measured in wasted money
and lives.
Yet, interest in microlight aviation is very strong in America and
elsewhere around the world. In 1994, twenty-five countries reported
to the international microlight commission more than 82,000 active
pilots and 47,000 microlights that flew more than one million flight
hours. One hundred eleven manufacturers reported a production total
of 4,954 new planes just during that 12-month period. Each year the
United States Ultralight Association, Inc. receives growing numbers
of inquires by those who hope to fulfill life-long dreams of personal
flight.
These numbers illustrate that many individuals worldwide are
attracted to aviation sports for the deep fulfillment and personal
accomplishment which fun flying offers.
ARAC Aug 17, 1993-Ultralight Vehicle Working Group FAA created a working
group for "ultralights" on August 17, 1993. Thepurpose was to address the
petitions of the USUA and generally to address the cadre of air sports
aircraft and pilots that had developed during recent history. FAAs NPRM
11133 reports that it considered all, and incorporated some, of the ARAC
committee
recommendations.
But there is much more to the story.
First ARAC Recommendation (Unanimity!)
After many meeting and long discussions, the Ultralight ARAC group
met in December, 1995, and proudly voted to hand the draft NPRM to
FAA. The agreement was not merely "consensus," but unanimousno
dissenters or withheld votes whatsoever. Interestingly, however, the
proposal then was very different.
It recommended to FAA:
An aircraft maximum weight of 992 pounds (450 kilos), and
Stall speed of 35 kts, No flights over congested areas, and to
Otherwise resemble ultralight regulation (Part 103). An "Umbrella of
Standards" would permit any form of new aircraft and pilot programs
without rulemakingeven those kinds not yet invented. Every group agreed
to recommend no changes to part 103, ultralight regulation. A separate
FAR part was recommended and it would be named "Microlight." What
happened when ARAC unanimously (and very proudly) agreed to hand the
finished recommendations NPRM to FAA just before Christmas in 1995?
Silence.
After some weeks had passed there came reports of FAA holding private
meetings with notable individuals from general aviation, and the
Experimental Aircraft Association in particular. After a full year of
stalling, FAA began to call another set of ARAC meetings.
By then most of the sporting groups had lost faith in the sincerity
of FAA and the meetings became dominated with associations such as
EAA, Aero Sports Connection, Capella and the Small Aircraft
Manufacturers Association. They gained a majority of voting power and
created a new recommendation with much higher weight, speed and pilot
privileges. Sometime between the end of the ARAC meetings and the
release of Sport Pilot (NPRM 11133), FAA internally decided to again
increase the weights for some reason.
Only that second, final recommendation is reported by FAA. FAA
says, "The ARAC working group submitted its recommendations to FAA
for review in July, 1998. Much of FAAs proposal is based on ARACs
sport pilot certification recommendation..." The FAA did not adopt
even one portion of the original, unanimous ARAC recommendations. But
they were valid recommendations and should not be lost just because
they werent what FAA wanted to hear.
ARAC did not recommend use of FAR 61 & 91. FAA writes, "The ARAC
recommended FAA include detailed privileges and limits in part 61" This
is incorrect. The ARAC group first recommended a new regulation (FAR).
FAA made it clear that that was not an option, so the ARAC group
reluctantly compromised by saying that FAA could place it as they wished
so long as the tone, feel and
intention was met. FAA immediately responded that Parts 61 and 91
would be the location, and now reports to the public that it was an
ARAC recommendation.
International Harmonization Issues
Additionally, the international microlight community has provided
(1994) written encouragement for FAA to adopt international
microlight aircraft parameters which were exactly included in the
first ARAC recommendation.
FAA has completely ignored this recommendation by the principal
international representative group and instead refers to a few
individual countries that have the expanded definitions that
apparently better suits FAA intention. The increases from 992 pounds
maximum to 1232; and especially the increase from 35 knot stall to 44
knot stall, is significant and in my experience has a profound effect
on aircraft airworthiness and pilot training requirements. FAA simply
states that, "[International harmonization]is based on the premise
that the number of the requirements contained in the proposal
(namely, aircraft certification standards) essentially mirrors those
that already exist internationally." This is insufficient
justification to my mind.
Aviation Disciplines
Ultralight aviation is a cultural matter as well as technical
specialty. Those who fly for fun have different regulatory needs than
those intending to fly traditional aircraft for personal
transportation in the airways and over cities. This cultural issue
may again be being submerged under the push for a reduced medical and
cheaper aircraft for existing pilots, the apparent thrust of Sport
Pilot (NPRM 11133).
FAA staff are, in general, very educated and caring people.
I enjoy knowing many of them and like the debating event that often
occurs when I am in their Washington DC offices. FAA headquarters is
less than 50 miles from my home, so I visit FAA whenever it seems
advantageous.
However, not one single FAA employee within flight standards
headquarters has personally flown ultralights on a regular basis for
recreation. Flight standards is where pilot and instructor programs
are created. The vacuum of actual, personal involvement in ultralight
air sports has meant that hearsay and preconceived notions have
become the basis for regulatory "improvement" at FAA headquarters.
FAA focus on transportation is eclipsing an accurate view of air
sports aviation. Because they do not understand this aviation group,
their regulatory approaches have not worked well.
The primary FAA representative to the Sport Pilot ARAC meetings
retired shortly after the meetings stopped. The very nice and capable
person who is the new Sport Pilot coordinator and spokesperson never
actually attended any sport pilot ARAC working group meeting. In fact
no FAA employed now involved has first hand knowledge of the
political and cultural issues that were discussed for so many hours.
It is better when the regulators participate in the community to be
regulated. Surely the airlines would not stand for a regulatory
department of individuals who had no commercial aviation experience.
What if a town council in Iowa regulated a town in Oregon? I dont
think so. No FAA employees in Flight Standards have yet been
ultralighters, and none have regularly personally attended the ARAC
meetings. I believe this reduces the quality of rule proposals such
as NPRM 11133, and makes comments from the aviation community more
important.
Personal Recommendations
Sport Pilot: A Two-Tiered Approach is Required
I support a process for the slower, simpler fat single and two-place
ultralights, and also
I do not object to the FAA proposed higher parameters as they may
also benefit some of my fellow aviators.
I agree with USUA which believes both things should take place, both
methods through 2 special regulations (S-FARS)one S-FAR as now
proposed and a second S-FAR associated with ultralight regulation to
support the fat and two-place ultralights as proposed originally by
ARAC when it was composed of more air sports groups.
Basic proposal is OK for existing FAA pilots
Overall, the existing FAA proposal would be helpful to existing FAA
licensed pilots and instructors. Some want to increase their flight
privileges to include faster aircraft and overflight of cities. The
proposed rule could provide that. I also believe the definition of
the aircraft which a sport pilot could fly should be increased enough
to include aircraft such as Cessna 150, 152, Piper Tomahawk, and
other common 2-place general aviation aircraft. Finally, FAA might be
wise to simply incorporate these changes into Recreational Pilot as
FAA so strongly lobbied for during many ARAC meetings. The trick for
FAA will be to adopt programs with these broad pilot privileges that
end up being significantly "less" than the long-standing private
pilot certificate (the downfall of Recreational Pilot).
Of special significance and commendation are the proposed new
categories of aircraft for powered parachutes and trikes (weight-
shift to FAA). This is very important as it would allow full private
piloting privileges and would not limit powered parachutes and trikes
to only 2 seats. If, as I fear might be the case, the sport pilot
certificate gets too close to the private certificate, applicants
could select to go directly to private while being trained entirely
in powered parachutes or trikes as they choose. This may end up being
the most successful part of the entire proposal related to pilot and
instructor certification.
Forcing all fat-single and two-seaters pilots into higher, further
and faster aircraft is excessive, unnecessary and dangerous.
Many with whom I have spoken only want reasonable regulatory avenue
to fly "fat" single and two-place ultralights for recreation. USUA
and other groups have repeatedly petitioned FAA about this. FAAs
proposed requirement for every pilot and instructor of fat single
seaters and two-place ultralight trainers go back into training for
130 mph aircraft is simply overkill. Each pilot would have to pass a
comprehensive written test on general aviation rules (parts 61 & 91),
an oral examination and flight test using some notoriously difficult
to fly aircraft which could have top speeds over 130 mph and fly over
our cities and towns. Existing ultralight operations demonstrate that
many individuals prefer to give up such transportation-oriented
speeds and over-city flights in trade for more recreationally
oriented training programs such as now in use by several ultralight
associations.
Solution: Second level tier
What I believe FAA should do is to create a two-tiered approach:
sport pilot as proposed, and a second tier to address fat single and
two-place ultralights. This mirrors the original ARAC recommendation
for a separate FAR. Just as FAA proposes to attach a special federal
regulation (S-FAR) named Sport Pilot to existing regulations of parts
61 & 91, I recommend that FAA attach a second S-FAR, named Ultralight
Aircraft, to part 103 (Ultralight Vehicles).
Two-seaters for training and recreation, "fat" single-seaters
Here is where the original, unanimous, ARAC recommendation can again
be utilized. Bring into the second level tier the two-place training
programs, recreational use of two-seaters, and a modestly increased
definition for single seaters (H. O. Scale) as has been discussed and
requested for decades by USUA, the international microlight
commission, other air sports organizations and contained within the
sport pilot ARACs first recommendation.
Two-seater Ultralights
FAA mistakenly reports that, " in 1995 when it issued the first
exemption from part 103 for training." [Emphasis is mine] This is a
very inaccurate and seriously misleading statement by FAA.
FAA actually began issuing exemptions allowing two-seat ultralights
for training in 1983, only 9 months after issuing ultralight
regulation (part 103) in October 1982. FAA has repeatedly renewed
these exemptions to 4 or 5 various organizations every two years
thereafter for almost 2 decades.
Interestingly, FAA also states, "Although we [FAA] issued exemptions
to temporarily resolve the training issues, to extend them on a long-
term basis would be an inappropriate use of the exemption process
[emphasis is mine]. The FAA believes that a permanent and
appropriate level of regulation is necessary."
I dont know how many years FAA has to continuously issue an
exemption before it is considered "inappropriate use of the exemption
process." But nineteen consecutive years of uninterrupted exemption
renewals for multiple associations surely demonstrates the importance
and significance to both FAA and the ultralight community for the
need for two-place "ultralights." It also illustrates that the
ultralight community has, in fact, operated two-seaters although the
actual ultralight rule limits ultralights to only one seat.
In practice FAA has (sensibly) allowed two-seaters since the
beginning. It is important to keep open the option for the training
programs developed around two-seat ultralights. And through the years
it has become clear that those who were trained in two-seat
ultralights learned to fly two-seat ultralights.
The Solution: FAA should add a stage, or tier, of regulation to the
proposal the additional S-FAR should be similar to the S-FAR now proposed
by
FAA in that the Ultralight Aircraft S-FAR would provide FAA
certificates for pilots and instructors, and "N" numbers for the
aircraft. The written, oral and flight tests would be based on
existing ultralight programs and enforced by FAA. Administration of
the program might be, or might not be, through membership
associations. The operating rules would come from part 103 including
prohibition on flights over congested areas, not into ATC controlled
airspace without prior permission, and no night flyingexactly as
ultralight vehicles are presently limited.
Now proposed by FAA:
I recommend that a second-level be added:
This two-tiered approach encourages the FAA "Sport Pilot" to be
finalized while permitting ultralighters to gain the authority for
two-seat recreation use under the more restrictive ultralight
regulation. This second option is critical for those who want to fly
todays ultralights and do not mind being relegated to rural areas.
I also recommend that FAR part 103 (Ultralight Vehicles) to be left
unchanged. FAA Proposed Pilot/Instructor Program Requirements Are
Impossible to Evaluate Sport pilot and instructor training programs are
impossible to
evaluate because they do not exist. FAA says that it will take from
industry programs when establishing the standards (Pilot Testing
Standards, PTS). But will FAA derive a program significantly
different that private pilot? Only time will tell.
Airworthiness "Consensus Standard" Impossible to Evaluate
It is not possible to evaluate the contents of the
airworthiness "consensus standards" for light sport aircraft as
proposed by FAA until such standards exist. FAA words the NPRM to
almost lead the reader to believe that the manufacturers will have
say over the contents of the program, but FAA certainly has the last
and final approval authority. How appropriate and reasonable will FAA
be? We cannot know until we see a finished consensus standard.
Therefore ultralight manufacturers, the FAA, and other affected
parties should get together and create and publish the industry
consensus standard before the public is obligated to respond to the
NPRM without a full awareness of the ramifications of the light-sport
aircraft certification process and costs.
Aircraft Options Need Not Be Withheld
Ultralight aviation has hosted vehicles with retractable land gear,
variable pitch propellers, multi engines, and even an occasional pure-
jet engine. FAA now proposes to make those combinations unavailable
to sport pilots even though they will "be trained to a higher
standard." Why should this be? I am aware of no evidence that these
options have caused significant or wide-spread safety problems in
single and two-seat ultralights.
Even model airplanes now have functional turbine engines. Some
designers are talking of ultralight-type aircraft with multi engines
(maybe 6, 8 or more engines) to minimize the dependence on any one
engine. Retractable landing gear and variable pitch propellers are
not complex devices only for those pilots with superior intelligence.
Besides, some ultralighters have superior intelligence. The largest
reported complexity with retractable landing gear is simply
remembering to put it down before landing.
Lets let those who are willing to accept additional training and
receive an instructors log endorsement utilize these devices if they
wish.
Include all Sport Aviation Segments
In addition to the groups addressed by FAA in NPRM 11133, I would
like to specifically recommend that at least the Ultralight Vehicle
SFAR include:
gyroplanes (one and two-seaters), tandem hang gliding, tandem powered
paragliding and aero-towing of hang gliders which have somehow been left
out of FAAs NPRM 11133. These activities have taken place under FAA
exemption for many years and there is no basis in safety to terminate the
activity of which I am aware. By issuing and reissuing exemptions for
these purposes, FAA
implies that aero-towing, two-place training and recreational flying
in all forms of "ultralight" flying, including powered paragliding
are important. This is correct. Also consider the fact that the
tandem exemption for hang gliding includes the option of passenger
flights for recreation. This has caused no problems.
These items should be perpetuated by inclusion in the Ultralight
Vehicle SFAR as they are allowed by exemption today. To leave out
these segments is to create a safety problem related to training
because it will force single place training to be the only option.
This is where the instructor (if there is one) stands on the ground
and coaches (by hand signals or radio) the students first flights.
Surely FAA does not deliberately intend to do this.
Category/Class Checkout Will Satisfy Safety Issues
Pilot and instructor make/model-specific checkouts is unwarranted
based on my considerable experience in providing transition training.
Transition training is sometimes important, but it need not be
federal law. The requirements within an Ultralight Aircraft (SFAR)
instructor "aircraft" check out should be identical to what it is
under the several training exemptions. Namely this is category/class
checkout by a qualified instructor, but no make/model specific
requirement. Again, accident data supporting an increase in existing
requirements for the same aircraft is non-existent (remember the tier
named Ultralight Vehicle SFAR is limited to only those two-place
craft now known as ultralight trainers).
Closing
I appreciate the opportunity to make this personal comment for all to
read. I hope it influences FAA. Too often my personal work
in "industry and government" working groups has suffered from major
compromise and political shenanigans. I love air sports aviation.
What I recommend is from my deepest convictions and based on
thousands of hours of flying and teaching.
John Ballantyne
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com |
Topher and others,
The 447 engine I am using is premixed and was broken in on Klotz
synthetic oil. I have not seen a problem in doing this, however, most
pilots agree to break it in on mineral for 10 hours first.
Although mechanical fuel pumps are reliable (had one on for 400 hours), I
have never heard of an electric pump, connected in series, being used
when the mechanical pump failed. I would suspect that if there came a
time to use the electric facet pump, it would not pump fuel to the
carburetor as expected. This is because the facet would pump fuel right
through the mechanical pump's ruptured diaphragm, through the pulse line,
and into the engine's crankcase causing it to quit.
The only way to prevent this would be to connect the pump in parallel,
with check valves. These guys that have their facet pumps connected in
series (2-stroke engines), may be in for a big surprise when they need it
the most.
Solution: forget the facet pump and simply replace the mechanical Mikuni
pump every 3 years for $22.95.
Ralph Burlingame
Original Firestar
15 years flying it
writes:
>
>
> Many use the 100:1 Amzoil, but I
> > remain at 50:1 Klotz. I would think that either of the two types
> of
> > Amzoil synthetics would be fine.
>
>
> I have the oil injection system on my 503, and am getting ready to
> run the
> motor for the first time since I received it. it had its break in
> and about
> 5 hours with the previous owner, before his incident. The oil
> injector
> varies ratio from low to higher depending on throttle, so what
> synthetic oil
> wold you recommend in the oil tank, as opposed to premixed? should
> I premix
> and used the injection for first tank... since this isn't a raw
> engine I'm
> not sure, but the motor has been sitting around a long time now.
>
> I am putting the fuel system together now. I got an ASC gascolator
> from
> Aircraft Spruce and was a bit disappointed. there was a large metal
> shaving
> just barely attached to the inside of the primer port threads, and
> the
> primer port is installed on the unfiltered side, which doesn't make
> much
> sense to me. Will still probably use it but why would they not put
> the
> primer port after the filter and the water separator? Also got my
> Facet
> pump, from Aircraft Spruce and it is a dense little thing!
> Originally I was
> going to go for the parallel fuel lines but it is hard to argue with
> John
> H's years of success with them in series, and it is simpler and
> liter which
> is always good. Also getting one of the primers to make starting
> easier
> when its cold here. ( 1" of snow last night... April 27th for
> goodness
> sake, that's weird even for here.) I thought about putting in a two
> way
> valve after the E-pump and running primmer line from one side of
> that. then
> to prime, with the valve to prime, turn on the E-pump for a second
> or so
> then with the valve back and pull the cord. What do you guys think
> of
> that?
>
>
> Topher
>
>
>
>
> messages.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "John Young" <j.y(at)blueyonder.co.uk> |
Hi All
I've enjoyed reading this list and learned some good stuff thank you
all.
Now it's time to Delurk and ask a question, so please be kind !
I'm going to be crossing the English Channel in a couple of months for
the first time in a Twinstar.
Now I know it's not far, but it has got an unforgiving nature (the
Channel Not the Twinstar). So I'd like to be prepared.
Has anyone got any experience of Ditching in the Twinstar MKlll ?
Some people this side of the pond recommend jumping out a few feet above
the water. ( I've got full doors
and maybe opening them in flight would be difficult).
What do you think ?
John MK111/582 UK
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Gogittum Lar" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
Possum ?? Possum ?? Oooohhh.............Possum ?? John, we have a true
expert in ditching here somewhere. Seriously............I'm not real
sure about the Twinstar, but I was taught to stall a Cessna in as tail first
as possible, to try and "stick" the tail to the water, to help slow it down,
and help prevent a flip over. It's also taught to have the doors unlatched
before you hit, so they can't jam shut if the airframe tweaks under the
impact. Make sure your shoulder straps are tight, to prevent kissing the
panel, tho' in a Kolb, that's highly unlikely. Are you the
fella who was with Clive Hatcher at SnF ?? If so, hello again...........it
was nice to meet both of you. Gogittum Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Young" <j.y(at)blueyonder.co.uk>
Subject: Kolb-List: Ditching
>
> Hi All
>
> I've enjoyed reading this list and learned some good stuff thank you
> all.
>
> Now it's time to Delurk and ask a question, so please be kind !
>
> I'm going to be crossing the English Channel in a couple of months for
> the first time in a Twinstar.
> Now I know it's not far, but it has got an unforgiving nature (the
> Channel Not the Twinstar). So I'd like to be prepared.
>
> Has anyone got any experience of Ditching in the Twinstar MKlll ?
> Some people this side of the pond recommend jumping out a few feet above
> the water. ( I've got full doors
> and maybe opening them in flight would be difficult).
>
> What do you think ?
>
> John MK111/582 UK
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 4/28/02 3:45:47 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
biglar(at)gogittum.com writes:
<<
Possum ?? Possum ?? Oooohhh.............Possum ?? John, we have a true
expert in ditching here somewhere. Seriously............I'm not real
sure about the Twinstar, but I was taught to stall a Cessna in as tail first
as possible, to try and "stick" the tail to the water, to help slow it down,
and help prevent a flip over. It's also taught to have the doors unlatched
before you hit, so they can't jam shut if the airframe tweaks under the
impact. Make sure your shoulder straps are tight, to prevent kissing the
panel, tho' in a Kolb, that's highly unlikely. Are you the
fella who was with Clive Hatcher at SnF ?? If so, hello again...........it
was nice to meet both of you. Gogittum Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.gogittum.com >>
Hi folks, this reminds me of the pterodactyl that went down in 18 ft of water
near me. Driver was an experienced pilot but was confused as to what to do
when he lost a spark plug wire over Mosquito lake near here. He told me he
didn't know whether he should have unbuckled just before he hit the water (as
slow as the pteradactyl could go) or leave it trussed up around him. Well, he
chose to leave it on...which was ALMOST the last mistake he ever made because
the cage went under immediately with him strapped in, and the dad gummed
machine settled deeper as it started to go down .....BACKWARDS INTO MUDDY
SIGHTLESS WATER...talk about John Kennedy and blind flying all over
again....and he ends up on the bottom of the lake UPSIDE DOWN UNBEKNOWNS TO
HIM. He thought the bottom of the lake was the top and the top was the
bottom!! Couldn't see nothin and was still strapped in!! Flying wires all
over the place and he almost drowned...said after he finally got out of the
tangle at the bottom ....pushing off the bottom and hitting the plane with
his head creating further disorientation, he was of a mind to end it all by
taking water into his lungs after seemingly forever underwater, when his hand
broke water and he was saved by a nearby small craft.
His testimony was ....he will always take off his seat belt before inundation
and brace himself against the certain impulse by hand to minimize the amount
of stuff to be done after being forced to operate blind.
Something to ponder....don't you think?
George Randolph
Firestar driver from Akron
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Dalewhite(at)aol.com |
I live in Tucson and would like to talk to someone knowledgeable about the
Kolb and Rotax line. TIA
dw
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jim" <flykolb(at)carolina.rr.com> |
John,
You WILL be wearing a life jacket and have the necessary survival gear with
you, right? You will also do the very best preflight ever and have had
everthing checked and rechecked before you begin, right? (See the previous
recent posts on engine failures.)
Personally, I think the best policy is to always be within gliding distance
to a posible landing site. I do not know how wide the channel is at the
point you intend to cross but this might result in a very high altitude
flight!
Best of luck and have a safe flight.
Jim
Charlotte, NC
Mark III
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Young" <j.y(at)blueyonder.co.uk>
Subject: Kolb-List: Ditching
>
> Hi All
>
> I've enjoyed reading this list and learned some good stuff thank you
> all.
>
> Now it's time to Delurk and ask a question, so please be kind !
>
> I'm going to be crossing the English Channel in a couple of months for
> the first time in a Twinstar.
> Now I know it's not far, but it has got an unforgiving nature (the
> Channel Not the Twinstar). So I'd like to be prepared.
>
> Has anyone got any experience of Ditching in the Twinstar MKlll ?
> Some people this side of the pond recommend jumping out a few feet above
> the water. ( I've got full doors
> and maybe opening them in flight would be difficult).
>
> What do you think ?
>
> John MK111/582 UK
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Put it on a boat and haul it acrossed the bloody channel
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | SGreenpg(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Kolb accident database |
In a message dated 4/27/02 10:54:11 PM Eastern Daylight Time, vicw(at)vcn.com
writes:
> Is there a data base of Kolb accidents?
You can go to NTSB.GOV and do a search on Kolb. This was a key factor in my
decision to build a Kolb.
Steven G.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Kenny Broste" <kenandmona(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Re: Tucson AZ newby |
Dale,
I see that you're from Tucson. Same here. Are you building a Kolb Firestar
or are you flying one now? I'm about 60% done on my Firestar II with about
with about 70 % left to do. Actually I've got it covered and getting ready
to paint. Are you familiar with H.L. Cooper's ultralight field? I know
that there is two or three Kolb's flying out of there. I'm not very
familiar about the Rotax engines, but H L would be the man locally that
you'd want to talk with he's been flying ultralights for maybe 20 years with
about a gazillion hours in them.
Ken
----- Original Message -----
From: <Dalewhite(at)aol.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: Tucson AZ newby
>
> I live in Tucson and would like to talk to someone knowledgeable about the
> Kolb and Rotax line. TIA
> dw
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Possum <possums(at)mindspring.com> |
>
>Hi All
>
>I've enjoyed reading this list and learned some good stuff thank you
>all.
>
>Now it's time to Delurk and ask a question, so please be kind !
>
>I'm going to be crossing the English Channel in a couple of months for
>the first time in a Twinstar.
>Now I know it's not far, but it has got an unforgiving nature (the
>Channel Not the Twinstar). So I'd like to be prepared.
>
>Has anyone got any experience of Ditching in the Twinstar MKlll ?
>Some people this side of the pond recommend jumping out a few feet above
>the water. ( I've got full doors
>and maybe opening them in flight would be difficult).
>
>What do you think ?
Unbuckling your harness before you hit might be a bit uncomfortable, but
then again it depends on which window your body is ejected through.
But, if you're forced to make a water landing, here are some things to keep
in mind.
The trick is not to panic and no - I not telling you do die calmly.
And that is probably the most least-likely-to-be-followed advice you'll
ever been given.
1. Take a deep breath before you hit, you'll be under water very soon, and
won't be coming back up for at least a few seconds. It helps to count, you
know, " 1 Mississippi, 2 Mississippi, etc. It's nice to know how long
you're really under, it might seem a lot longer than it really is.
2. Don't try for shallow water (of course, your in the "Channel" - so I
suppose that won't be a problem). When the wheels grab, the nose will
dolphin, just like Flipper, and dive about 6 feet before the wings stop the
momentum of the plane. Actually it's a rush; kind of like being hit by an
airbag in a car. It only takes a second to go from 40 mph to 0. Don't know
how many Gs that is. It also only takes a second for the cockpit to
completely fill with water.
3. The worst part is that it feels like the plane is sinking, it's not.
You're only a few feet under water, and the plane is actually slowly coming
up.
4. The rest is pretty simple, unbuckle your harness, leave your helmet on
but pull the wires loose from the radios, etc. Not having anything to
judge this against, I supposed I was doing rather well until the shoulder
harness tangled in my helmet/earphones. Just a noted this, because I could
not remember how to unbuckle my helmet. Had to pull it off from the back -
over my head. Perhaps it was the oxygen deprivation, but I was rather lost
in my own little world for a while - about 10 seconds, I think.
5. If you have a full enclosure, it probably will still be locked, so
unlock it or kick it out. By this time the plane will be floating, but you
will still be under water.
6. Now just climb out onto the wings and wave down someone to pick you up,
you've got about 10 minutes before the plane sinks. I was in a FireStar,
and yours may act completely different. We've had a two-seater like yours
go in since my adventure. It touched one wheel down and did kind of a
half-turn and proceed to sink, neither of us flipped over.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Duncan McBride <duncanmcbride(at)comcast.net> |
If a water landing was inevitable in a wheeled airplane, coming down under
the chute might be the best choice. I'd be thinking about wind velocity,
and whether I could get it pointed directly upwind. I think I'd leave the
harness hooked either way.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Robert Laird <rlaird(at)cavediver.com> |
I've heard that a really good thing to do when planning on extensively
overflying water is to stick some inner tubes inside the wings and inflate
them. It's supposed to add only a tiny bit of weight, not affect the
airfoil, but help keep the plane afloat (which helps the rescuers spot
you). Obviously, choose a size that is appropriate, which won't cause any
bulges, or interfere with any of the ailerons, etc.
Also, take along an EPIRB in addition to all other emergency equipment. I
understand the channel is cold 12 months a year, so you will have a very
limited amount of time (probably <20 minutes) of in-water time before you
succumb to hypothermia. So, you either need to be wearing a drysuit, or
you need to make sure you can get into a life-raft very quickly and dry off.
-- Robert
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Dave Rains <rr(at)htg.net> |
Topher, Will and I have been using Penz 100% synthetic marine oil in our
engines with excellent results. Available at WalMart for about $20.00 a
gallon. Real convenient, as W-mars are everywhere.
Dave.
-----Original Message-----
From: Christopher John Armstrong [SMTP:Tophera(at)centurytel.net]
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: 2 cycle oil
Many use the 100:1 Amzoil, but I
> remain at 50:1 Klotz. I would think that either of the two types of
> Amzoil synthetics would be fine.
I have the oil injection system on my 503, and am getting ready to run the
motor for the first time since I received it. it had its break in and
about
5 hours with the previous owner, before his incident. The oil injector
varies ratio from low to higher depending on throttle, so what synthetic
oil
wold you recommend in the oil tank, as opposed to premixed? should I
premix
and used the injection for first tank... since this isn't a raw engine I'm
not sure, but the motor has been sitting around a long time now.
I am putting the fuel system together now. I got an ASC gascolator from
Aircraft Spruce and was a bit disappointed. there was a large metal
shaving
just barely attached to the inside of the primer port threads, and the
primer port is installed on the unfiltered side, which doesn't make much
sense to me. Will still probably use it but why would they not put the
primer port after the filter and the water separator? Also got my Facet
pump, from Aircraft Spruce and it is a dense little thing! Originally I
was
going to go for the parallel fuel lines but it is hard to argue with John
H's years of success with them in series, and it is simpler and liter which
is always good. Also getting one of the primers to make starting easier
when its cold here. ( 1" of snow last night... April 27th for goodness
sake, that's weird even for here.) I thought about putting in a two way
valve after the E-pump and running primmer line from one side of that.
then
to prime, with the valve to prime, turn on the E-pump for a second or so
then with the valve back and pull the cord. What do you guys think of
that?
Topher
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ron or Mary" <ronormar(at)apex.net> |
Subject: | FireStar Chord Dimension |
I am a little confused on the chord dimension of the FireStar for CG
purposes. The weight and balance sheet shows it as 61 inches. This would
be from the leading edge of the wing to the trailing edge of the aileron.
61 inches is only true at the outter 92 inches of the wing where the
ailerons are. Since the FireStar does not have flaps, the chord dimension
for the inboard 62 inches is 50 & 5/8 inches. Do you disregard the inboard
part of the wing and only consider the outboard section where the ailerons
are for CG calculations?=0D
=0D
Ron Payne
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Dalewhite(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Tucson AZ newby |
Ken,
Thanks for the quick reply. I live just north of Catalina. I am scheduled
to take an introductory flight with H. L. tomorrow morning in a "Rebel". I
am brand new to this idea so am trying to collect, understand and sort out a
lot of information. I like what I have read of the Kolb and take comfort in
its reatively long existance. I am probably more concerned with the
reliablity factor of the engine.
I'm gone for today but I'll for sure drop you a line after my "flight".
dw
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dale Sellers" <dsellers(at)sgtcollege.org> |
Subject: | Attaching Lexan windshields |
I have a question for someone. I'm rebuilding an Ultra Star and in the
process I've added a nose pod which I constructed from aluminum with a
fiberglass nose. I also made a bulkhead/instrument panel from aluminum. I
want to attach a 1/8" Lexan windshield to the aluminum nose pod which will
run back about a foot on the top rail of the fuselage cage. How should I
attach the Lexan? Screws with lock nuts, rivets, screws and rubber
grommets???? Any ideas?
Thanks,
Dale Sellers
Georgia
do not achieve
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Gogittum Lar" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
Subject: | Re: Attaching Lexan windshields |
I can see where I'm going to have to modify my website. Went into "Building
Vamoose," and then "Gullwing Doors" to double check the attachment method,
and it's not there...............so it'll soon be put there. In the
meantime................I have found that, while the handsaw works well, a
pair of large tinsnips is faster and easier. Just cut the stuff like heavy
sheetmetal. You can't break it, tho' you do have to be careful of
scratches. I used sheetmetal screws for the initial fastening, to double
check fit, etc., then used the wide head aluminum rivets to anchor it
permanently. Don't use stainless rivets here..........the lexan has to be
able to move a bit to compensate for heat expansion & contraction. Top &
bottom holes on the hinge side are 1/8" to maintain positive alignment. The
rest.........ALL the rest...............are 3/16", while still using the
1/8" rivets. This allows for the movement needed. Vamoose has been sitting
out in the Palm Springs sun, year round, for at least 3 years now, and
there's not a crack in sight. Gogittum Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dale Sellers" <dsellers(at)sgtcollege.org>
Subject: Kolb-List: Attaching Lexan windshields
>
> I have a question for someone. I'm rebuilding an Ultra Star and in the
> process I've added a nose pod which I constructed from aluminum with a
> fiberglass nose. I also made a bulkhead/instrument panel from aluminum.
I
> want to attach a 1/8" Lexan windshield to the aluminum nose pod which will
> run back about a foot on the top rail of the fuselage cage. How should I
> attach the Lexan? Screws with lock nuts, rivets, screws and rubber
> grommets???? Any ideas?
>
> Thanks,
> Dale Sellers
> Georgia
> do not achieve
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Timandjan(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Attaching Lexan windshields |
In a message dated 4/29/02 9:05:02 AM, dsellers(at)sgtcollege.org writes:
I have a question for someone. I'm rebuilding an Ultra Star and in the
process I've added a nose pod which I constructed from aluminum with a
fiberglass nose. I also made a bulkhead/instrument panel from aluminum. I
want to attach a 1/8" Lexan windshield to the aluminum nose pod which will
run back about a foot on the top rail of the fuselage cage. How should I
attach the Lexan? Screws with lock nuts, rivets, screws and rubber
grommets???? Any ideas?
>>
I used the Stits rivets, the ones with the big heads used for attaching
fabric, gives a nice big head for holding and easy to drill out to remove for
cleaning the lexan or for easy removal and replacement.
Tim
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Possum <possums(at)mindspring.com> |
>
>Altho stuffing a lot of small innertubes into a wing may be a way to
>increase flotation time in a dunking, another easier--but perhaps more
>expensive method would be filling the wings with Ping Pong balls. been
>done before on a transatlantic flight.
I heard of a guy that did one of these crossings in a
FlightStar and stuffed his wings with inflated condoms.
Besides - it's only 26 miles and with the comdons and all
- you might get lucky in France.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "N.B. DelMore" <mk3(at)inr.net> |
Subject: | MK III (Classic) Question |
I purchased my MK III quickbuild kit back when Dennis Souder (is he
still around?) and the gang in PA where producing the kits.
I ran into a number of problems with the kit, primarily incomplete welds
on components and missing components (not welded on) on the fuselage
cage. To make a long story short, I started a new business, and the kit
went on hold.
My questions are:
1. Has there been an update of the plans, instruction manuals etc.
from the those supplied with the MK III kit that was produced prior to
acquisition of the company by the current owners?
2. Related to the above, have there been updates as to materials
etc. supplied with the kit now produced, e.g. seats, fuel tanks etc.
And finally, has anyone been able to order an upgrade from the MK III to
the MK III xtra? If so, what was the (approximate) cost to do so and
what was involved. Since I have the quickbuild version is this even a
possibilty?
One last question, are there any builders on the list in the Nashua, NH
area?
Thank you.
Noel
Nashua, NH
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 4/28/02 2:40:55 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
j.y(at)blueyonder.co.uk writes:
> Has anyone got any experience of Ditching in the Twinstar MKlll ?
> Some people this side of the pond recommend jumping out a few feet above
>
Several of us have been planning a 60 mile trip across a bit of the Atlantic
to the Bahamas. We plan to have a friend stationed about half-way with a
hand-held radio in a fast 40' boat. He will also be equipped with a GPS.
Rescue shouldn't be far off if one of us experiences problems.
If you are travelling by yourself, you'll have room for a small inflatable
boat. I would equip it with a hand-held radio, GPS, & flare gun. Maybe a
1/2 pint of Rum..........
Howard Shackleford
FS I
SC
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Chris Sudlow" <sudlow77(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Re: Attaching Lexan windshields |
On the MIII classic, I'm attaching mine with the large head aluminum
rivets - I think they are the same ones used for the fabric.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dale Sellers" <dsellers(at)sgtcollege.org>
Subject: Kolb-List: Attaching Lexan windshields
>
> I have a question for someone. I'm rebuilding an Ultra Star and in the
> process I've added a nose pod which I constructed from aluminum with a
> fiberglass nose. I also made a bulkhead/instrument panel from aluminum.
I
> want to attach a 1/8" Lexan windshield to the aluminum nose pod which will
> run back about a foot on the top rail of the fuselage cage. How should I
> attach the Lexan? Screws with lock nuts, rivets, screws and rubber
> grommets???? Any ideas?
>
> Thanks,
> Dale Sellers
> Georgia
> do not achieve
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | ZepRep251(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Cheap Carb synchronizer - Build your Own |
It is hard to beat the price of two new wooden pencils for synchronizing your
carbs.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Re: Almost Engine Out |
> As a closing note, there are two type of blue fuel line, one by Bing that
> is alcohol resistant and the cheap stuff that gets hard and brittle. The
> Bing brand is repeatedly marked along it's entire length.
> jerryb
jerryb/Gang:
Went through a lot of polyurethane and "other" fuel line
until a few years ago. Discovered Gates make a braided
light and heavy duty fuel line. It is dirt cheap, last for
years, uv is not a problem (as with the plastic stuff), real
hose clamps do not cut but hold it in place. Only problem
is I can not see the fuel inside. :-)
Seriously, I have gone to all Gates heavy 1/4" ID neoprene
fuel line. Too easy to let the plastic stuff catch up with
you at the wrong time. It will look fine and be on the
verge of coming apart.
As an added note. Please, everyone, take a couple seconds
to cut that part of the previous msg that does not add to
the understanding of what you are writing. Sometimes these
msgs get very long trying to wade through to find out what
the originator has to offer. Only take a little of your
time and save the rest of the List the time involved in
extracting info. Thanks!!!
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
> One guy told me of a trainer in Arizona that has 1400 hours on his Rotax
> without a teardown. This simply would not be possible using mineral oil.
>
> Ralph Burlingame
Ralph/Gents:
Was that operating hours? or hours in the hanger?
We need to find out more on this one. I think this guy has
a secret we all need to learn about. 1,400 hours on a Rotax
UL engine is a long time, whether using organic or
synthetic.
I noticed Pennzoil and Shell have fully synthetic two stroke
oil in Wal*Mart now. I am sure I would have burned
synthetic when I was flying two strokes, but could not
afford it then and did not believe all the claims that
Amsoil was spouting, as they were the only ones I knew about
at that time. Most all two stroke MX/Road Racing oil is now
synthetic.
I have been using Mobil I full sythetic in my 912/912S for
the past nine years. Has been doing a good job.
However, I think I will try the new Shell Rotella full
synthetic in the 912S. I have been using Shell Rotella in
all my Diesels and gas engines for 10 years now. The
Rotella full sythetic is designed primarily for heavy
diesels, but is also rated for gas engines. I need to do
some more research, but the rating on the Rotella my include
the gear lube additive that Rotax recommends we use in the 4
strokes. That specifically recommend a 4 stroke oil
designed for motorcycles.
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
Hello,
I do not know how many of you have a Menards Home Center in your area(mostly
midwest?) but they advertised Penzoil 100% Synthetic Outboard 2 cycle oil for
both premix and injection systems. price is $16.77per gal. Same as Air
cooled? Perhaps a Home Depot?
Sorry John H I am unsure how to "cut" to keep my reply short.
Any Mark lll's near Cedar Rapids Iowa?
Thanks
Tom Neenan
1991 Mark lll "nearly" done
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Chris Sudlow" <sudlow77(at)earthlink.net> |
Hi Tom,
I'm in Aurora, IL about 35 miles west of chicago, and will be flying my MIII
out of Leland which I think is about 50-60 miles from the quad cities. How
far are you from quad cities?
Chris
----- Original Message -----
From: <TJIND(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: 2 cycle oil
>
> Hello,
> I do not know how many of you have a Menards Home Center in your
area(mostly
> midwest?) but they advertised Penzoil 100% Synthetic Outboard 2 cycle oil
for
> both premix and injection systems. price is $16.77per gal. Same as Air
> cooled? Perhaps a Home Depot?
> Sorry John H I am unsure how to "cut" to keep my reply short.
> Any Mark lll's near Cedar Rapids Iowa?
> Thanks
> Tom Neenan
> 1991 Mark lll "nearly" done
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | 912 and Warp prop |
From: | "Jim Gerken" <gerken(at)us.ibm.com> |
04/30/2002 12:56:43 PM
I don't know how many of you guys get this Ultralight News, but here is a
new one that came yesterday.
Ultralight News EXTRA
While at Sun N Fun I had an opportunity to talk to Rotech Researches
Eric Tucker about a problem of loose head bolts I have found on a couple
of 912 equipped ultralights.
I mentioned to Eric about leaking heads on several 912 engines. He asked
two questions, was the engine overheated? Was it using a Warp Drive
propeller.
The over heating problem if severe enough of course could lead warped
heads and leaking heads.
In the second case Eric indicated that the Warp Drive propeller has a
harmonic resonance that acts on the head nuts loosening them off.
I would like to invite you to drop in and browse at
http://www.ultralightnews.com
http://www.ultralightnews.ca
http://www.ultralightflyer.com
Dave Loveman
L'il Hustler Ultralight Aviation Services
Home of the L'il Buzzard, L'il Hustler, and L'il Hustler SS!
North America's oldest Rotax engine service center.
Serving the ultralight community full time since 1978.
You are invited to visit
http://www.ultralightnews.com
http://www.ultralightnews.ca
http://www.ultralightflyer.com
Jim
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ron or Mary" <ronormar(at)apex.net> |
Subject: | Re: 912 and Warp prop |
Where is L'il Hustler Ultralight Aviation Services located?
-------Original Message-------
From: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
Date: Tuesday, April 30, 2002 01:04:42 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: 912 and Warp prop
I don't know how many of you guys get this Ultralight News, but here is a
new one that came yesterday.
Ultralight News EXTRA
While at Sun N Fun I had an opportunity to talk to Rotech Researches
Eric Tucker about a problem of loose head bolts I have found on a couple
of 912 equipped ultralights.
I mentioned to Eric about leaking heads on several 912 engines. He asked
two questions, was the engine overheated? Was it using a Warp Drive
propeller.
The over heating problem if severe enough of course could lead warped
heads and leaking heads.
In the second case Eric indicated that the Warp Drive propeller has a
harmonic resonance that acts on the head nuts loosening them off.
I would like to invite you to drop in and browse at
http://www.ultralightnews.com
http://www.ultralightnews.ca
http://www.ultralightflyer.com
Dave Loveman
L'il Hustler Ultralight Aviation Services
Home of the L'il Buzzard, L'il Hustler, and L'il Hustler SS!
North America's oldest Rotax engine service center.
Serving the ultralight community full time since 1978.
You are invited to visit
http://www.ultralightnews.com
http://www.ultralightnews.ca
http://www.ultralightflyer.com
Jim
_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "H MITCHELL" <mitchmnd(at)msn.com> |
Subject: | Mark3 Classic Controls |
Re: early model dual controls provided on some Mk3 classics. The kind where the
aileron control pushrods are located BEHIND the main control tube, not above
it.
As I continue to finalize the dual control system for my Mk3 I found another problem.
In the most forward and farthest left stick position it is possible to
have a controls lockup between the elevator control arm and bottom part of the
aileron control arm at the front of the aileron torque tube. This is a very seldom
used area of stick movement but by changing the way the aileron control
arm bolt is installed and rounding off some square corners I have reduced the
lockup potential to an annoying bump. Any
of you folks flying with this kind of control system should check to see
what I mean because I am sure the problem varies from plane to plane.
Duane the plane, Tallahassee, FL , FireFly/Mk3 Classic, 912
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Kirby Dennis Contr ASC/TM <Dennis.Kirby(at)kirtland.af.mil> |
Subject: | Re: Gap Seal Tape |
Group -
When applying the 3M #845 tape, it goes on on the UNDERSIDE, right?
Dennis Kirby
Mk-3 in New Mexico
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "John Young" <j.y(at)blueyonder.co.uk> |
Thanks to all of you for your useful advice, I hope I don't have to put
it to practical use. It doesn't sound like too many Twinstars have had
to ditch which is good news.( But bad if you want to know how they
behave in the water)
I have crossed the channel before, but in the Twinstar it should be a
bit faster and definitely warmer than in an open cockpit Spectrum.
Just waiting to get my plane back from the workshop, it got picked up by
a freak wind? and dropped on a wing tip ( yes I know it should have been
tied down, but how many people tie down on a calm day?....... me from
now on !!
learn from other people's mistake's and don't make them all yourself !!
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ron or Mary" <ronormar(at)apex.net> |
Could anyone please give me Dennis' e-mail address.=0D
=0D
Ron Payne
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Blane Cox" <coxhb(at)hotmail.com> |
Synthetic oils work great but offer no internal rust protection. Something to think
about for those living in humid areas. Air Wolf offers a synthetic/mineral
blend to get the best of both.
Blane
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bob Bean <slyck(at)frontiernet.net> |
Blane, interesting about the corrosion thing--where did you pick up
this info? I like Valvoline dura-blend. As an experiment compare
the pour rate of a semi-synthetic and a mineral (same grade) at about
20 deg F. --big difference -BB
Blane Cox wrote:
>
>
>
Synthetic oils work great but offer no internal rust protection. Something to think
about for those living in humid areas. Air Wolf offers a synthetic/mineral
blend to get the best of both.
>
Blane
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Re: Mark3 Classic Controls |
> As I continue to finalize the dual control system for my Mk3 I found anot> her
problem.
> Duane the plane, Tallahassee, FL , FireFly/Mk3 Classic, 912
Duane/Gang:
Are your tests being conducted with loaded or unloaded
control surfaces?
If you are conducting them unloaded, you made find far
different results when they meet the same or similar amounts
of resistance they would in flight at 60, 70, 80 mph.
I think you could get an assistant to provide the resistance
needed to get a good idea of how the controls react in that
situation.
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 4/29/2002 6:55:01 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
hawk36(at)mindspring.com writes:
> I have been using Mobil I full synthetic in my 912/912S for
> the past nine years. Has been doing a good job.
>
John H.
What about the Service Bulletin on "full synthetic" and burning 100LL? I was
thinking that you would burn a fair amount of 100LL traveling about as you
do. I switched to Valvoline Syntec Blend because of the SB. Maybe with 27
gallon tank you don't have to fuel up away from home to often.
Just curious,
John Bickham
Mark III - 912
St. Francisville, LA
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Branscomb" <wbrans(at)provide.net> |
On my way to a sleep apena appt this AM, I pass right by a Baskin Robins ice
cream shop. I'll think of you as I am eating a freebie.
I hear the anguish re a new home for you mom; hope the arrangement works out
OK. -w-
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | TCowan1917(at)aol.com |
Has anyone ever tried or used rotax oil as for their water craft and such in
our air application. friend bought a case and was just wondering. paid a
BIG price too. ted cowan
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | 3M 845 gap seals |
From: | "Jim Gerken" <gerken(at)us.ibm.com> |
05/01/2002 07:02:00 AM
>Group -
>When applying the 3M #845 tape, it goes on on the UNDERSIDE, right?
>Dennis Kirby
Yup, and put a strip of 1" wide adhesive-side toward the adhesive side on
the 3" wide, to cover the unused adhesive down the center. So the tape
goes on from the underside, adhesive side up. Wrap it around a 1" dowel,
broom handle, pvc tube, etc, to control it. Cut the dowel to fit in the
space between hinges, wrap on the tape, adhesive away from the dowel, and
put it up into the space nice and straight in one shot. Then simply smooth
down the edges. Its easier to do with the dowel than it is for me to
explain. Good luck.....
Jim
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
John B/Gang:
> What about the Service Bulletin on "full synthetic" and burning 100LL?
Talked to Erick Tucker, ROTAX, about that before the
installation of the 912S. Eric recommended using ALCOR TCP,
a fuel additive developed during WWII to help scavenge lead
from the big round engines on our bombers and fighters.
Shell Oil used to add it to their auto gasoline many years
ago.
I was
> thinking that you would burn a fair amount of 100LL traveling about as you
> do.
On the last trip to Alaska I burned aprx'ly 650 gallons
100LL.
Maybe with 27
> gallon tank you don't have to fuel up away from home to often.
At home I usually burn auto fuel. It is cheaper, but not by
much now days, and the engine was designed to operate on
it. I have a 25 gal (useable) fuel tank.
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "N.B. DelMore" <mk3(at)inr.net> |
Subject: | John Hauck's 25 Gal Fuel Tank |
Just wondering John, do you have any plans or other information
available for your fuel tank and/or other mod's made to your Kolb?
Thank you.
Noel
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Re: John Hauck's 25 Gal Fuel Tank |
> Just wondering John, do you have any plans or other information
> available for your fuel tank and/or other mod's made to your Kolb?
> Noel
Noel/Gents:
No plans.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
> THIS IS SPAM GET ME OFF THIS. NOW
"2000 PC PARTS"
"2000 PC Parts":
Pull your head out of your 4th point of contact, scroll down
to the bottom of the page and see if you can follow the
simple instructions after you click on
"subscribe/unsubscribe".
No need to holler or demand on this List.
Take care and take it easy,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Possum <possums(at)mindspring.com> |
>
>THIS IS SPAM GET ME OFF THIS. NOW
Open the pod bay doors, please, HAL...
Open the pod bay door, please, Hal... Hal, do you read me?
Affirmative, Dave. I read you.
Then open the pod bay doors, HAL.
I'm sorry, Dave. I'm afraid I can't do that.
I know that you and Frank were planning to disconnect me.
Hey - just to change the subject.
How many of you guy "really" de-carb your engines every 50 hours
like it say in the manuel??
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Dave Rains <rr(at)htg.net> |
Not I, if it ain't broke....
You will have to sort out the difference between Rotax liability
maintenance schedules and what your engine/flying type require. My Rotax 2
strokes fly nearly everyday, so ring sticking is not much of a problem.
Dave Rains
El Paso
-----Original Message-----
From: Possum [SMTP:possums(at)mindspring.com]
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Ditching
>
>THIS IS SPAM GET ME OFF THIS. NOW
Open the pod bay doors, please, HAL...
Open the pod bay door, please, Hal... Hal, do you read me?
Affirmative, Dave. I read you.
Then open the pod bay doors, HAL.
I'm sorry, Dave. I'm afraid I can't do that.
I know that you and Frank were planning to disconnect me.
Hey - just to change the subject.
How many of you guy "really" de-carb your engines every 50 hours
like it say in the manuel??
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jack & Louise Hart <jbhart(at)ldd.net> |
Possum,
My 447 siezed in a hard climb from take off at 57 and a half hours. When I
took the engine a part there was heavy carbon build up on the inside of the
heads, on top of the pistons and under the rings. I was using 100:1
Amsoil. If I had taken the time to look in the exhaust ports at 50 hours I
probably would have noticed the problem and decarbed. I switched to
Penzoil for air cooled engines, and I ran it up to 80 air hours before
taking the engine off.
It never hurts to look and it only takes a few minutes. A few gaskets are
less expensive than a piston and a set of rings.
Jack B. Hart FF004
Jackson, MO
>
>> How many of you guy "really" de-carb your engines every 50 hours
>> like it say in the manuel??
Jack & Louise Hart
jbhart(at)ldd.net
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Possum <possums(at)mindspring.com> |
>
>Not I, if it ain't broke....
>You will have to sort out the difference between Rotax liability
>maintenance schedules and what your engine/flying type require. My Rotax 2
>strokes fly nearly everyday, so ring sticking is not much of a problem.
>Dave Rains
OK then I'll- "I'll be your Huckleberry/Dave"
------------------------------------------------
(Doc Holliday to Wyatt Earp in Tombstone. It was the WAY he said it. Great
flick!!! : Anyway, : The phrase has ties to Arthurian lore. A Knight,
coming to the service of a damsel would lower his lance and receive a
huckleberry garland from the lady ( or kingdom) he would be defending.
Therefore, "I am your huckleberry" may well have been spoken to the Earps
and the statement's meaning may be "I am your champion". The "Random House
Historical Dictionary of American Slang, H-O" by J.E. Lighter (Random
House, New York, 1997) lists several meanings: 1. minuscule amount. 2. a
fellow; character; boy. "one's huckleberry," the very person for the job.
3. bad treatment. "the huckleberry" is similar to "the raspberry." 4. a
foolish, inept or inconsequential fellow. From meanings 1 and 4, you can
see the word can have opposite meanings. Another huckleberry phrase: "above
one's huckleberry" -- beyond one's abilities.)
-------------------------------------------------
Anyway - I have 340 hours on my 503 CDI engine - no Decarbs - no Rebuilds-
I look in the chamber every 50 hrs with a dental mirrow (no carbon) - I
check the rings (with the picks) every 100 hrs. I check compression every
100 hr. I always have 120
(like new) ie. the rings ain't sruck. I am not going to f--- with a good
thing. Keep you informed.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com |
writes:
> How many of you guy "really" de-carb your engines every 50 hours
> like it say in the manuel??
Possum and others,
I don't decarb using synthetic Klotz. I do pull the exhaust manifold off
every spring and check for carbon and stuck rings. None so far with
Klotz. Clean and like new every year. That's the way I like it.
By the way, I compared mine with another 447 Firestar using Pennzoil.
There is no comparison. Mineral oil cannot be compared with synthetic
oil, plain and simple.
Ralph Burlingame
Original Firestar
15 years flying it
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com |
Jack,
This is very puzzling about your experiences with Amzoil 100:1. With that
much carbon inside the cylinders, it almost sounds like it was running
very rich.
Ralph
writes:
>
> Possum,
>
> My 447 siezed in a hard climb from take off at 57 and a half hours.
> When I
> took the engine a part there was heavy carbon build up on the inside
> of the
> heads, on top of the pistons and under the rings. I was using
> 100:1
> Amsoil. If I had taken the time to look in the exhaust ports at 50
> hours I
> probably would have noticed the problem and decarbed. I switched
> to
> Penzoil for air cooled engines, and I ran it up to 80 air hours
> before
> taking the engine off.
>
> It never hurts to look and it only takes a few minutes. A few
> gaskets are
> less expensive than a piston and a set of rings.
>
> Jack B. Hart FF004
> Jackson, MO
>
>
> >
> >> How many of you guy "really" de-carb your engines every 50 hours
> >> like it say in the manuel??
>
>
> Jack & Louise Hart
> jbhart(at)ldd.net
>
>
>
>
> messages.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Possum <possums(at)mindspring.com> |
>Hey Possum/Gang:
>Back in the good ole days of two stroking, I decarboned my
>447 with the throttle, good fuel, and good oil. Seemed like
>it ran better when I ran it hard and turned higher rpm.
>
>john h
Me too boss.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jack & Louise Hart <jbhart(at)ldd.net> |
Ralph,
I guess I can tell the rest of the story. When I decarbed the heads and
the top of the good piston and the piston ring slots, I discovered that the
carbon was rock hard. I have decarb engines before but this material was
more fused that just plain carbon build up. I got to checking my oil. I
had bought a case of Amsoil in late 1998. After I took the FireFly to the
airport, I discovered I needed brakes to be around other ga planes. So
that took some time. Then I started taxiing, and the FireFly was all over
the place, but I kept at it until my legs and my mind became connected
again and I could fast taxi in a gusty cross wind. After this, I took some
time in a Challenger to make sure I didn't do something stupid. Then I came
back got in held the stick back and flew the FireFly for the first time on
9/9/1999.
The engine seized on June 25, 2001 and I am still using oil from the
original case . I had noticed a little sediment in the bottom of the last
quart of oil I had emptied. I started pouring one quart over into an empty
bottle to see if other bottles had sediment in them too. The very next
bottle had jellied lumps in it as I poured it over. I called the company,
and they told me that Amsoil is hydrophilic and even though the oil is
sealed in plastic bottles, moisture will migrate through the plastic
bottles and cause the oil to gel. Then he asked what color the bottles
were and I told him white opaque. He said they had changed bottle
material to try to prevent the problem and that I should not have bought
such a large quantity of oil or I should store it in a dry place. I had
stored it in the hanger in the Mississippi River bottom. Amsoil may be a
good oil, but this experience has soured me on the brand.
The dealer for the Simonini Victor 1+ that I am installing on the FireFly
recommends Amsoil, but I will not use it.
Luck was with me because two days before the seizure, I flew a little cross
country to Reelfoot, TN, camped over night and then back the next day. It
ran like a charm the whole way and I had to make gas stops on the way to
and from. I remember sitting there watching the world go by and thinking,
"it just doesn't get much better than this", and two days later I put it in
the bean field at the end of the runway.
Jack B. Hart FF004
Jackson, MO
>
>Jack,
>
>This is very puzzling about your experiences with Amzoil 100:1. With that
>much carbon inside the cylinders, it almost sounds like it was running
>very rich.
>
>Ralph
>
Jack & Louise Hart
jbhart(at)ldd.net
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | ALLENB007(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Does any one know this person? |
Kolbers,
I'm a Firefly owner and I have a friend who's looking at a plane up in
virginia and it's got a rotax 503 that has appx. 50 hrs on a complete rebuild
from the crank up.The individual who did this my friend thinks is Harry
Abernathy from Tennessee..I understand he deals a lot in engines and other
assorted engine parts.I don't know if he's an authorized rotax repair
person or not. He traded a 582 for this engine.Do you know this individual
and if so, does he do quality work.This guy will be flying it appx. 200
miles if he purchases it and I'd like to know more about the person who
rebuilt this engine.
Your response would be greatly appreciated.
Allen Bellamy
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | tony webster <caw(at)nctc.com> |
Subject: | Re: Does any one know this person? |
you are probably talking about harry alberty from clarksville tn maybe
ALLENB007(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Kolbers,
>
> I'm a Firefly owner and I have a friend who's looking at a plane up in
> virginia and it's got a rotax 503 that has appx. 50 hrs on a complete rebuil>
d
> from the crank up.The individual who did this my friend thinks is Harry
> Abernathy from Tennessee..I understand he deals a lot in engines and other
> assorted engine parts.I don't know if he's an authorized rotax repair
> person or not. He traded a 582 for this engine.Do you know this individ> ual
> and if so, does he do quality work.This guy will be flying it appx. 200
> miles if he purchases it and I'd like to know more about the person who
> rebuilt this engine.
>
> Your response would be greatly appreciated.
>
> Allen Bellamy
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Possum <possums(at)mindspring.com> |
>
>Ralph,
>
>I guess I can tell the rest of the story. When I decarbed the heads and
>the top of the good piston and the piston ring slots, I discovered that the
>carbon was rock hard. I have decarb engines before but this material was
>more fused that just plain carbon build up. I got to checking my oil. I
>had bought a case of Amsoil in late 1998
Nothing personal, and nothing personal against you, but I've/we've been flying
these things since 1983 and "Amsoil" sucks, it cost us Cuyuas' in the 80's
and I think it will cost you Rotax's in the 90's-2001.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Possum <possums(at)mindspring.com> |
>
>Jack and Possum,
>
>Years ago Klotz did not have any rust inhibitors in their oil and
>snowmobilers had rusted cylinders after a winter of storage. I still run
>across a few of these guys that refuse to use Klotz because of this.
>Ralph Burlingame
When I get to "1400 hours without a teardown" - then you can
give "me" a gold star. Just trying to be helpful.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dale Sellers" <dsellers(at)sgtcollege.org> |
Subject: | Cuyuna questions |
Maybe some of you can help me with some cuyuna questions. I recently
purchased an Ultra Star that had been sitting up for awhile. It was obvious
to me after being a PP for 35 yrs and building and flying two experimentals
that this ship needed a total rebuild. The person I got it from knew
nothing about it as he had bought it from someone else and had done nothing
to it. I got one complete Cuyuna II-02 and most of another with it. The
complete one looked like it wasn't very old and it was obvious that it had
come off a quicksilver because it had a 4 belt redrive on it and the ratio
was 228:1. I understand the standard redrive for an Ultra Star is 196:1.
It also had an extension shaft on it with a prop hub on the end. I talked
to Larry at TN props and he recommended a 50/37 prop rather than the
standard 50/30 because of the slower turning redrive. I got the prop,
installed, took the carb apart and cleaned it, fashioned a fuel system and
it cranked and ran good. I haven't attached any gauges to it so I haven run
it up to check how the prop loads the engine but it cranks on the first pull
hot and when cold, a couple pulls with the choke on and then about two pulls
with it off and it cranks and runs good, accelerates smoothly and idles as
smooth as a two stroke will idle.
Now the questions:
1. I am using pennzoil 2 cycle oil and premium gas mixed 40:1. I mixed 2
1/2 gals and added a two stroke fuel stabilizer made by briggs and stratton
which is supposed to keep the mixed fuel fresh. When I run the engine I get
black oil out the exhaust pipe, gets all over the prop, makes a real mess.
Is this normal? At 40:1 I would think that all the oil would burn and leave
the engine as blue smoke. It could be that some one put oil in the muffler
to pickle it. I haven't run it much, it might go away after running the
engine more. I had thought about rinsing the muffler out with a solvent.
2. I see that most of you are using 50:1 instead of 40:1 and some 100:1.
My manual says 40:1. Am I doing it right?
3. The muffler must have been made to run on an engine in the upright
position because mounted inverted as I use it, the outlet sticks straight
up. Any idea where I might get an elbow to weld on to keep falling things
from getting in it such as rain, and debris.
4. I have a tach, EGT/CHT ordered and will not run the engine up hard till
I am able to know what these readings are. Is there anything else I should
do to check the engine out?
I am just about finished rebuilding the airframe. Stripped the steel cage
down to bare metal. Repaired a few dents, primed and painted it. I put in
an aluminum floor (.025) and covered the sides of the cage up to the top
rails. In the rear of the fuselage area I used a piece of perforated
Aluminum cut from a section of a satellite dish to help keep anything from
the fuselage from getting to the prop. I am almost finish with the nose pod
I'm building, then I'll be ready to cover wings and tail feathers.
I've noticed a small amount of surface corrosion on the trailing edge tubes
and on the spars. Not much bur you can feel it if you rub your hand over
it. Should I worry about this?
Enough mind picking,
Thanks for your help.
Dale Sellers
Georgia
do not achieve
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | DCREECH3(at)aol.com |
A few days ago, someone referred on this list to a Kolb that had crashed in Indiana,
I believe, but I never saw another reference to it. Does anyone know anything
about it?
Lee
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "jawmson@attbi" <jawmson(at)attbi.com> |
Have read several posts about 3M/Scotch #845 book binding tape used as
aileron gap seals.
Can anyone tell me where or what kind of store they purchase it at?
John Williamson
Arlington, TX
Kolbra, Jabiru 2200
construction log at: http://home.attbi.com/~kolbrapilot/
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Re: Gap Seal Tape |
> Have read several posts about 3M/Scotch #845 book binding tape used as
> aileron gap seals.
> John Williamson
John W/Gang:
Recommend doing the gap seals the "hard way", with finishing
tape. Does a much more professional job and will stay the
course of time. Book binding tape always looks unfinished
except the day you stick it on.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Gap Seal Tape |
From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com |
I agreee with John. My painted finishing tape has been on there 15 years and doing
well.
Ralph Burlingame
Original Firestar
15 years flying it
---------- John Hauck writes:
From: John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Gap Seal Tape
Date: Thu, 02 May 2002 15:30:26 -0500
> Have read several posts about 3M/Scotch #845 book binding tape used as
> aileron gap seals.
> John Williamson
John W/Gang:
Recommend doing the gap seals the "hard way", with finishing
tape. Does a much more professional job and will stay the
course of time. Book binding tape always looks unfinished
except the day you stick it on.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Woody <duesouth(at)iname.com> |
Subject: | Re: Gap Seal Tape |
A
>Recommend doing the gap seals the "hard way", with finishing
>tape. Does a much more professional job and will stay the
>course of time. Book binding tape always looks unfinished
>except the day you stick it on.
>
>john h
I agree with John but the "hard way " has been a pretty simple
operation for me. Some have spent a day putting on book binding tape but
using finishing tape I can do it in an hour.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Woody <duesouth(at)iname.com> |
>
Hey Warren
I think you hit the wrong button on that one. Do you still have the
twinstar?
>On my way to a sleep apena appt this AM, I pass right by a Baskin Robins ice
>cream shop. I'll think of you as I am eating a freebie.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Woody <duesouth(at)iname.com> |
Subject: | Re: Cuyuna questions |
>
>2. I see that most of you are using 50:1 instead of 40:1 and some 100:1.
>My manual says 40:1. Am I doing it right?
If every one else jumped of a bridge would you :) I think a lot of
cuyuna engine outs were from people listening to rotax experts and using
their recommendations on oil mixing. All 2 cycles are not rotax. Go by the
book and be sure. Check your spark pugs after a few hours and they will
tell you the real story.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Possum <possums(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Re: Keepers of Odd knowledge |
>
>>
>>
>> OK then I'll- "I'll be your Huckleberry/Dave"
>> ------------------------------------------------
>> (Doc Holliday to Wyatt Earp in Tombstone.
>And I thought all I was gonna' learn about wuz airplanes...
Yeah - sorry - you know, there's alway a smart ass.
Much of what I say manages to look interesting and instructive without
actually being either.
I am forever doing this, forgetting it (generally more or less instantly),
then felling terribly guilty.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Possum <possums(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Re: Keepers of Odd knowledge |
>
>>
>>
>>Yeah - sorry - you know, there's alway a smart ass.
>>Much of what I say manages to look interesting and instructive without
>>actually being either.
>>I am forever doing this, forgetting it (generally more or less instantly),
>>then felling terribly guilty.
>
>Don't sweat it. You're "Open the pod door Hal" routine was wonderful enough
>to make up for anything else you may say or do in the near future...
>Richard Pike
>MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
Well just to show you I'm not making this all up.
http://www.800-airwolf.com/pdffiles/ARTICLES/part47.pdf
and look under "When it's time to decarbon"/First give the engine a
comnpression test.
and thank "John Russell" for the "pick" test on the rings.
and I change my Platium Plugs every 25 hrs. - $4.25 @ x 4 = $$
and I really think I can go on till I break a crank shaft.
and I do have some thousand (I won't say how many - cause I don't know)
hours since 1983, but nowhere near Mr. Hauck's hrs.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Cuyuna questions |
In a message dated 5/2/02 5:41:52 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
duesouth(at)iname.com writes:
<<
>2. I see that most of you are using 50:1 instead of 40:1 and some 100:1.
>My manual says 40:1. Am I doing it right?
If every one else jumped of a bridge would you :) I think a lot of
cuyuna engine outs were from people listening to rotax experts and using
their recommendations on oil mixing. All 2 cycles are not rotax. Go by the
book and be sure. Check your spark pugs after a few hours and they will
tell you the real story.
>>
I had a Cuyuna in my pterodactyl, and over 5 years of ownership my engine
"froze up on me twice....but then again I didn't have an egt, either, and
didn't even know what to look for in those days. Also, I had an "illegal"
resonant chamber on the exhaust which was supposed to squeeze 5 more HP out
of the puppy at full throttle and guess what, both failures happened at full
throttle ....and me with NO egt....umaluckypup....but by the same token both
failures happened on takeoff and a pterodactyl only uses 50' for that anyway,
leaving a whole bunch more for engine failures.
In the 11 years of flying my 447 Kolb Firestar, I have only had one engine
out (near the field) when one of my spark plug wires self screwed off, but no
freeze ups. All nonevents except one of the pterodactyl freezes that ended up
in an education for me at the cost of a broken gear. I didn't drop the nose
ENOUGH! Aim that puppy almost straight down as quick as ya can cause you only
have 50 feet and not much speed on takeoff anyway.
George Randolph
Firestar driver
Akron, Oh
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | TCowan1917(at)aol.com |
Just wanted to remind anyone in the area that cares that the Southern Flyers
Ultralite Association, #409, is having its regular spring (?) fly in at
Freedom Field, in Slocum, Alabama, on May 11, 2002. You can email me for
further details if interested. Just a get together, low keyed, fly around
type of affair. All are welcome if you can manage to land on 3000 ft grass!
Ted Cowan
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | ...the rest of the story. |
From: | "Jim Gerken" <gerken(at)us.ibm.com> |
05/03/2002 07:28:30 AM
>Yeah, one of our local guys seized his 503 on 100/1 amsoil and made an
>emergency landing on the border highway. He is now using Penz synthetic
>outboard. I wouldn't go near amsoil.
>Dave Rains
It is easy to blame the oil. But what have we learned from your local
guy's experience? How was it jetted, what was the timing setting, how hot
was he running it, how many hours were on it, how was it propped, what was
the piston to cylinder wall clearance, was it decarboned on schedule?
After it seized I assume it was repaired. At that time the repairman
should have been able to diagnose the failure with very little doubt as to
what caused the problem. Without more information, it is a bad idea to
blame the oil, or the operator, or the fuel, or any one particular thing.
"If we don't learn from our mistakes we are doomed to repeat them."
Aviation is a good place to practice that old saying.
By the way, I use Amsoil and frankly I couldn't care any less what oil you
use so I have no interest in biasing your oil-buying decision. But I am
always trying to learn from other people's experience.
Jim
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Re: Keepers of Odd knowledge |
> and I do have some thousand (I won't say how many - cause I don't know)
> hours since 1983, but nowhere near Mr. Hauck's hrs.
Possum/Gents:
That's cuz I am getting to be an old fart.
Ya gotta get out and fly more. Anybody can work all the
time.
The flyin season is amongst us. This weekend is Jones Light
Flyin at Smiths Station, Alabama and next weekend the
Southern Flyers have theirs at Freedom Field, Slocumb,
Alabama. Will try to make them, weather permitting.
Might be a good idea for folks to post their flyins on the
Kolb List. I am so far back in the woods I don't get any
info unless it comes through the phone lines.
Take care,
john h
PS: When is the flyin up your way, Possum?
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jack & Louise Hart <jbhart(at)ldd.net> |
Subject: | Re: ...the rest of the story. |
Jim,
In my case if I had checked for carbon at 50 hours, I would have caught the
problem. Also, if Amsoil had said to store the oil in a dry place, I may
not have stored it in the hangar, and I would have put it in the deep
freeze. When one thinks of oil, one does not assume it is going to attract
water and degrade because of it. Also, I was running just one EGT, and you
can guess which cylinder and piston overheated.
The seizure was caused by carbon or carbon like deposits under the rings.
I had been climbing for about two minutes at 6000 rpm. The heat buildup
caused the rings to want to expand but the carbon would not let them push
back into the slots because of the build up, causing the rings to press
harder against the cylinder wall and generate even more heat causing the
lubrication to break down. The piston scuffed on both the intake and
exhaust sides of the engine.
As you say, if we live and if we are lucky we learn.
Jack B. Hart FF004
Jackson, MO
>
>It is easy to blame the oil. But what have we learned from your local
>guy's experience? How was it jetted, what was the timing setting, how hot
>was he running it, how many hours were on it, how was it propped, what was
>the piston to cylinder wall clearance, was it decarboned on schedule?
>After it seized I assume it was repaired. At that time the repairman
>should have been able to diagnose the failure with very little doubt as to
>what caused the problem. Without more information, it is a bad idea to
>blame the oil, or the operator, or the fuel, or any one particular thing.
>"If we don't learn from our mistakes we are doomed to repeat them."
>Aviation is a good place to practice that old saying.
>
>By the way, I use Amsoil and frankly I couldn't care any less what oil you
>use so I have no interest in biasing your oil-buying decision. But I am
>always trying to learn from other people's experience.
>
>Jim
>
Jack & Louise Hart
jbhart(at)ldd.net
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Chris Sudlow" <sudlow77(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Re: Gap Seal Tape |
Woody,
Did you just polytak the fabric in place?
My wings & flaps & ailerons are covered & painted. Do I need to polybrush,
polyspray, & polytone the fabric for the gap seal, or did you just polytak
the fabric in place & leave it alone?
Chris
----- Original Message -----
From: "Woody" <duesouth(at)iname.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Gap Seal Tape
>
> A
>
> >Recommend doing the gap seals the "hard way", with finishing
> >tape. Does a much more professional job and will stay the
> >course of time. Book binding tape always looks unfinished
> >except the day you stick it on.
> >
> >john h
>
>
> I agree with John but the "hard way " has been a pretty simple
> operation for me. Some have spent a day putting on book binding tape but
> using finishing tape I can do it in an hour.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jim" <flykolb(at)carolina.rr.com> |
Subject: | Re: Keepers of Odd knowledge |
John/all
flyins.com is a good source for info on flyins all over the country and you
can post info you know there as well.
Jim
Charlotte, NC
Mark III
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Hauck" <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Keepers of Odd knowledge
>
>
> > and I do have some thousand (I won't say how many - cause I don't know)
> > hours since 1983, but nowhere near Mr. Hauck's hrs.
>
> Possum/Gents:
>
> That's cuz I am getting to be an old fart.
>
> Ya gotta get out and fly more. Anybody can work all the
> time.
>
> The flyin season is amongst us. This weekend is Jones Light
> Flyin at Smiths Station, Alabama and next weekend the
> Southern Flyers have theirs at Freedom Field, Slocumb,
> Alabama. Will try to make them, weather permitting.
>
> Might be a good idea for folks to post their flyins on the
> Kolb List. I am so far back in the woods I don't get any
> info unless it comes through the phone lines.
>
> Take care,
>
> john h
>
> PS: When is the flyin up your way, Possum?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)bcchapel.org> |
Subject: | Re: Keepers of Odd knowledge |
As our chapter newsletter editor, I send the newsletter out in an e-mail
version. It includes our fly-in dates, etc. Anyone who would like to be
added to the mail out list just let me know and I will add you in.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
richard(at)bcchapel.org
>
>Might be a good idea for folks to post their flyins on the
>Kolb List. I am so far back in the woods I don't get any
>info unless it comes through the phone lines.
>
>Take care,
>
>john h
>
>PS: When is the flyin up your way, Possum?
>
>
>---
>Incoming mail is certified Virus Free.
>Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
---
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Factory Email System |
Hey You All:
Was at the New Kolb Aircraft Website a minute ago. Noticed
this bit of info on the bottom of the first page:
Notice: We are now experiencing problems with our phone
lines that connect us to the internet, so if you have not
received a response from us via e-mail, this is the reason.
Be assured that we will answer all e-mails once we rectify
this problem. This will be fixed by 5/7/2002. Thanks for
your patience!
This may explain the reason for slow response to some of our
email requests to the factory.
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Robert Laird <rlaird(at)cavediver.com> |
Subject: | Re: Factory Email System |
>Notice: We are now experiencing problems with our phone
>lines that connect us to the internet, so if you have not
>received a response from us via e-mail, this is the reason.
>Be assured that we will answer all e-mails once we rectify
>this problem. This will be fixed by 5/7/2002. Thanks for
>your patience!
Prob'ly trying to weld aluminum again... ;-)
-- R
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | gap seal tape, again |
From: | "Jim Gerken" <gerken(at)us.ibm.com> |
05/03/2002 10:45:42 AM
>Have read several posts about 3M/Scotch #845 book binding tape used as
>aileron gap seals.
>Can anyone tell me where or what kind of store they purchase it at?
>John Williamson
An office supply store may stock it or can order it. It comes in various
widths, buy 1" and 3". Or, buy 3" of the 3M product and then add a roll of
1" of another vinyl tape of your choice for color coordination. If you do
the color coordination thing, it looks real nice. Use my dowel-wrap
install method described earlier, its easy. I can do the plane in an hour,
including the tail. My first attempt used 2" wide tape and there was not
enough area to hold it on there properly so after two years it had to be
replaced. The 3" stuff still looks great after four years.
Jim
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | b young <byoung(at)brigham.net> |
Subject: | Re: book binding gap seal |
<<<<<<
Have read several posts about 3M/Scotch #845 book binding
tape used as
aileron gap seals.
Can anyone tell me where or what kind of store they purchase
it at?
John Williamson>>>>>>>
i went to the library and ordered it there..... i guess it
helps that my wife works there..
boyd
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "George Bass" <gtb(at)georgesmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: Factory Email System |
Very interesting how a bit of negative feedback from some of
the owners, and prostective owners, has a noticable tendancy
to, seemingly, 'bottleneck' any further communications with the
company that has, until now, one of the satisfying relationships
with their product owners, of any company in the business.
Won't be the first time a company did this, won't be the last.
Just hate to see ('hear') so many negatives on the new members
of TNK management.
Back to Lurkin' again,
George Bass
USUA ID # 80399
USUA Club # 555
USUA Club # 770
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "N.B. DelMore" <mk3(at)inr.net> |
Subject: | Re: Factory Email System |
Actually, I spoke with someone at the factory about this, they
definitely are/were having problems with their hosting provider, who may
be one of those 'big webhosting businesses' with a server tucked away in
somebody elses network center (like about 95% of those out there).
I was informed they were trying to move their site to earthlink but
where having difficulties doing so.
I offered to help if needed; I'm been in the hosting business for over 5
years now (www.inr.net), but they haven't taken me up on the offer.
Anyway, while their may be other gripes and grumbles about which I know
little at this time, I don't think you should slam dunk them for the
problems they are having with their website and email. I've just seen
too many other customers in the same boat over the years and sometimes
it is an absolute mess that needs to be straightened out, especially if
they don't have direct control of their domain registration.
Regards
Noel
MKIII - Nashua, NH
> Won't be the first time a company did this, won't be the last.
> Just hate to see ('hear') so many negatives on the new members
> of TNK management.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Factory Email System |
In a message dated 5/3/02 1:19:03 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
gtb(at)georgesmail.com writes:
<< Very interesting how a bit of negative feedback from some of
the owners, and prostective owners, has a noticable tendancy
to, seemingly, 'bottleneck' any further communications with the
company that has, until now, one of the satisfying relationships
with their product owners, of any company in the business.
>>
WOW!
GeoR38
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "George Bass" <gtb(at)georgesmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: Factory Email System |
Thoroughly enjoyed your reply to my "spontaneous conclusions"
stated earlier.
My previous thoughts were actually based on the repeated and
disappointing comments made by several members of this list on
their return from S'n'F as well as the attempts by current owners
to satisfy some fairly relevant needs, unsuccessfully. Or perhaps
I should have said that it SEEMS that they have met with rather
unfavorable results.
Just voicing what I perceive to be the current flow. Hope I am
VERY wrong. Again, I enjoyed your 'tag line'.
George Bass
USUA ID # 80399
USUA Club # 555
USUA Club # 770
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Possum <possums(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Re: Keepers of Odd knowledge |
>
>
>> and I do have some thousand (I won't say how many - cause I don't know)
>> hours since 1983, but nowhere near Mr. Hauck's hrs.
>
>Possum/Gents:
>
>That's cuz I am getting to be an old fart.
Me too, but I'm always 10 years younger than you.
I suppose there are certain things that are useless to discuss on
this type of list, those might include politics, religion, two stroke oil,
vortex generators, seafoam ( what ever that is), and how to properly
land a Kolb, ie. wheel landing vs flaring (personally I believe flaring - put
in the crudest terms - is like swatting to pee - as the Navy carrier
pilots say) but to each his own.
>Might be a good idea for folks to post their flyins on the
>Kolb List. I am so far back in the woods I don't get any
>info unless it comes through the phone lines.
>
>Take care,
>
>john h
>
>PS: When is the flyin up your way, Possum?
GSFA AIR RALLY 2002
June 8 ; ETOWAH BEND-
our latest adventure: (you might have to cut and paste this link)
http://www.georgiasportflyers.com/members/pages/newsletters/May%20Newsletter
.pdf
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Possum <possums(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Re: Keepers of Odd knowledge |
>>PS: When is the flyin up your way, Possum?
>
>GSFA AIR RALLY 2002
> June 8 ; ETOWAH BEND-
>
>our latest adventure: (you might have to cut and paste this link)
>
>http://www.georgiasportflyers.com/members/pages/newsletters/May%20Newsletter
>.pdf
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Oh heck - just go to
http://www.georgiasportflyers.com/
and click on the "May Newsletter" link if you want to read it.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Dave Rains <rr(at)htg.net> |
Subject: | ...the rest of the story. |
Well, he was a AMSOIL distributor, but has had second thoughts. Running an
engine at a ratio different from the manufacturer's recommendation, is
foolish in my opinion. I hope you have many trouble free hours and never
experience a catastrophic engine failure. While any engine can quit, I
think the odds increase when deviating from the manufacturer's guidelines.
OK, off my soapbox,
Dave Rains.
El Paso
-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Gerken [SMTP:gerken(at)us.ibm.com]
Subject: Kolb-List: ...the rest of the story.
>Yeah, one of our local guys seized his 503 on 100/1 amsoil and made an
>emergency landing on the border highway. He is now using Penz synthetic
>outboard. I wouldn't go near amsoil.
>Dave Rains
It is easy to blame the oil. But what have we learned from your local
guy's experience? How was it jetted, what was the timing setting, how hot
Snip>
By the way, I use Amsoil and frankly I couldn't care any less what oil you
use so I have no interest in biasing your oil-buying decision. But I am
always trying to learn from other people's experience.
Jim
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Woody <duesouth(at)iname.com> |
Subject: | Re: Gap Seal Tape |
>
>
>Did you just polytak the fabric in place?
I am unsure what we did for the stits process on the club plane. I think
we used poly brush. Check the covering manual and it will tell you for
sure. I am using the HI Pec system and the fabric is initially glued on
with contact cement and then the paint acts as an adhesive also.
>My wings & flaps & ailerons are covered & painted. Do I need to polybrush,
>polyspray, & polytone the fabric for the gap seal, or did you just polytak
>the fabric in place & leave it alone?
Like I said check the manual and it will tell you everything you want to
know about putting on the gap seals. If you do not have that info an email
to Jim and Dondi will clear everything up.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Airgriff2(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 30 Msgs - 05/03/02 |
In a message dated 5/4/02 2:51:30 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
kolb-list-digest(at)matronics.com writes:
> Re: no.845 book binding tape
>
>
At Sun&Fun I asked the Kolb people about installing gap seals on the tail
(elevator & rudder). They said "DON"T DO IT". He did'nt go into detail as
to why, just said Homer did'nt design it for that. Not sure if what he told
me was right or wrong, but I thought I would pass it along, as there is some
talk going on at this time about gap seals on the list.
Safe Flying
Bob Griffin
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Airgriff2(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 30 Msgs - 05/03/02 |
In a message dated 5/4/02 2:51:30 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
kolb-list-digest(at)matronics.com writes:
> I think Kolb is working on their marketing and publicity
> needs
My MK3 will be on display at an airshow Memorial Day weekend. A big turnout
is normal as the Blue Angels will be performing. My main objective is to talk
to people and try to promote sport aviation and fun flying in the
experimental catagory, and also promoting Kolb aircraft. Talked to Linda
from TNK and she said she would be more than happy to supply me with flyers
and literature to pass out. I guess I'm giving Kolb a "pat on the back" to
go along with some of the negative comments lately.
sun is up- headin for the field.
Bob Griffin
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Ken Korenek <ken-foi(at)attbi.com> |
Subject: | Re: sawhorses or table? |
Ralph,
Thanks for the tips.
I'm building the table today.
Taking the steel parts to get them sandblasted and painted with enamel
on the interior parts and epoxy on the external/doped parts. Don't think
I'm gonna' do anything to the interior aluminum.
I just looked at the materials/ fastener combination lists from my
aerospace days at Bell Helicopter and Bell's direction was to wet install SS
fasteners into aluminum with zinc chromate- dip the rivet then place in the
hole and pull it.
I,m going out to the airport today or tomorrow to measure the leading edge
tubes on the 5 rib. I'm sure it's .035, but will mike it to verify.
*********************
Ken W. Korenek
ken-foi(at)attbi.com
FireStar II, Rebuilding 7 Rib Wings
4906 Oak Springs Drive
Arlington, Texas 76016
817-572-6832 voice
817-572-6842 fax
817-657-6500 cell
817-483-8054 home
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | bob n <ronoy(at)shentel.net> |
list dead--or am I?
bn
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Andrew Gassmann <agassmann(at)earthlink.net> |
Membes,
I found out the hard way my prop was too close to the ailerons.
Can anyone recommend a company to supply one, and perhaps the cost, of a 2
- 2 1/2 inch spacer?
Andy
Trying to ready FF 052
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | ZepRep251(at)aol.com |
Bob, Hooker makes a nice set of 5 pt. belts for my Firestar.They custom make
them for each model. I'm very pleased with mine.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Dave Rains <rr(at)htg.net> |
Ivo sells a spacer. I use one on both my planes.
Dave Rains.
-----Original Message-----
From: Andrew Gassmann [SMTP:agassmann(at)earthlink.net]
Subject: Kolb-List: Prop spacer
Membes,
I found out the hard way my prop was too close to the ailerons.
Can anyone recommend a company to supply one, and perhaps the cost, of a 2
- 2 1/2 inch spacer?
Andy
Trying to ready FF 052
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | <wecounselman3(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | WOODLAND-WATTS FLY-IN (SACRAMENTO) |
Kolbers:
I attended the Woodland-Watts fly-in today (designated
O41, located 38 deg 40.43'N, 121 deg 52.32'W). Very
small, friendly fly-in, $0 entry fee. (Hint to fly-in
organizers; put a map on your web site showing airport
location- locals are unaware of small airport
locations. This is a Bad Thing for those of us who are
Directionally Disabled).
There were lots of cubs, champs, pipers, cessnas,
ercoupes, mooneys and other interesting and/or boring
spam-cans. Lots of T-6s, T-28s, PT type trainers and
stearmans. A beech D18 flew in. Saw an Interstate
Cadet, Sitts Playmate, a Fokker D-9 (looked about 75%
scale; modified from a Pober Pixie design)
As usual, there were lots of RVs; a few kitfoxes, a
thorp T-18, a rans Coyote, a flightstar, a challanger
or two, and one (1) Kolb, which belongs to Gary. Gary
flies out of Freedom Field, Gary Mello's sport flying
field located north of Sacramento. I took a picture of
Gary's Kolb last time I was out there. It has a Rotax
377, which I have never seen before. He bought the
plane off Ebay for ~$6500. What a deal.
I left before the model plane demonstration and the
powered parachute flight. I did see a nice Stearman
flyover with smoke.
A good time was had by all. The show continues on
Sunday so if you live in the Central Valley go see it.
FryBoy Bill
=====
http://health.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Airgriff2(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 13 Msgs - 05/04/02 |
In a message dated 5/5/02 2:51:06 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
kolb-list-digest(at)matronics.com writes:
> Expect to find kids climbing on your airplane, pulling on
> > things, sitting on the tail, turning the prop, etc
Thanks for the tips on having my plane on display at the upcoming airshow.
The show is providing stansions and rope to put around the aircraft, but I'm
sure if I'm not there every minute watching, there is always 1 or 2 that
would probably scoot under the ropes to have a closer look. I'll keep a
watch out and report back as to how I made out.
Fly safe
Bob Griffin
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Clay Stuart" <tcstuart(at)adelphia.net> |
May 2002 Experimenter magazine just out with the Sun 'n Fun award winners.
Lightplane:
Lightplane grand champion-Kolb N141DW, Dave Willingham, Melbourne FL
Ultralight:
Ultralight grand champion-Kolb Mark III, Dwayne Woods, Taylorsville GA
Best of type, trainer-Kolb Kolbra, Ray Brown and Randy Tabor, London KY
Best of type, construction kit: Kolb Firestar, Paul Servaty Clements,
Maryland
15 total awards-Kolb had 4. Second place were 11 manufactures with 1 each.
Anyone know the Kolb model of the Grand Champion plane of Dave Willingham?
No pictures or further information was given about the winners in this
issue.
Clay Stuart
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Timandjan(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: sawhorses or table? |
I would build sawhorses, I found it great to be able to work underneath as I
built the wings, If it were a table you could not access the underside of the
ribe etc.
Also, I built mine tall so I did not have to bend over as I worked, being
high I was able to get under them as well.
I made mine real stought and used anchors to bolt them to the floor.
Tim
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Timandjan(at)aol.com |
I am ready to built another Kolb, prefer a Slingshot or Mark3. I like to
build as much as fly so I want a project. I would love to find a project that
someone has started and decided not to finish, does anybody know of one
available. Keep me in mind if anybody comes across one.
Great flying yesterday, the thermals were excellent, amazing at how nice the
Firestar2 does in thermalling.
Tim
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Jung <jrjungjr(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: sawhorses or table? |
I'm building the table today.
Ken and Group,
I wish that I had put pictures of me building my
Firestar II wings on my website. A picture would
explain the advantage of sawhorses better than I can.
The main reason that they are better than a table is
that you can stand between the ribs and under the wing
to drill and pull rivets. I built my sawhorses taller
than normal so that I would not have to been over too
much. The sawhorses were also used for covering. I
built a large table, too, but all it got used for was
building the tail and holding tools and stuff.
John Jung
Back in Upper Michigan
after spending the winter in Arizona
Firestar II N6163J
http://jrjung.0catch.com/
http://health.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Jung <jrjungjr(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: Almost engine out |
Group,
For the person that almost had the engine out: If you
have a magnito ignition Rotax, you should also check
the plug gap. It should be .015". If it is .020 or
more, it could have caused your problem. I know it
sounds strange, but it can and has happened.
John Jung
http://health.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | jerryb <ulflyer(at)airmail.net> |
If your running an IVO prop - IVO van supply them. Shows how just a little
more detail included in the question can make a quick and proper reply easier.
Ours was included with the prop in the kit. The old Kolb company shorted
us this item on our FireFly, had to go back and ask for it. Reason I knew
it was supposed to be there is Dennis and I had a discussion about it at
Oshkosh where I ordered my kit. (The reason I was given for using the
spacer is to the move the prop back is to get cleaner air over the wing and
it makes less noise.)
If you got the wood prop, not sure if it comes with that configuration. If
you have ordered a IVO afterwards, it may not be included and may be an
additional cost item.
jerryb
>
>Membes,
>
>I found out the hard way my prop was too close to the ailerons.
>
>Can anyone recommend a company to supply one, and perhaps the cost, of a 2
>- 2 1/2 inch spacer?
>
>Andy
>
>Trying to ready FF 052
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | jerryb <ulflyer(at)airmail.net> |
Subject: | Elevator & Rudder Gap Seals |
John Hauck,
Got any comments on this, you seem to be the list expert on the Kolbs.
It may vary on which model is involved. I know we have them on our
FireFly's elevator and horizontal. stabilizer. None on the rudder and
vertical stab though.
jerryb
>
>In a message dated 5/4/02 2:51:30 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
>kolb-list-digest(at)matronics.com writes:
>
>
> > Re: no.845 book binding tape
> >
> >
>
>At Sun&Fun I asked the Kolb people about installing gap seals on the tail
>(elevator & rudder). They said "DON"T DO IT". He did'nt go into detail as
>to why, just said Homer did'nt design it for that. Not sure if what he told
>me was right or wrong, but I thought I would pass it along, as there is some
>talk going on at this time about gap seals on the list.
>
> Safe Flying
> Bob Griffin
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jack & Louise Hart <jbhart(at)ldd.net> |
Subject: | Re: sawhorses or table? |
Ken,
The best way to build wings is to build them on a two vertical studs rising
from the floor to over head struss members. Place a couple of short two by
fours horizontal to hold the main spar. Use a water level made out of
tygon tubing filled with colored water and wood shims to level the main
spar. Slip on all the ribs onto the main spar and slip the inboard steel
rib into place. Drop a plumb bob line to show you the bottom surface of
the steel rib and do the same on the other end for the last full rib on the
main spar. Next drop another plumb bob line to make sure that your steel
rib is square to the main spare. Next slip the trailing tube into place.
The water level, and the three plumb bobs will ensure that your wing is
flat and square within one eight of an inch.
The advantage of this technic is that you can stand or sit and drill and
pop rivet from each side of the wing. After you have stabilized the wing
with enough pop rivets you can take it off the supports and turn it over
and pop rivet some more. As you go you can always check to see that the
wing is flat. This method is very easy on your back.
Jack B. Hart FF004
Jackson, MO
Jack & Louise Hart
jbhart(at)ldd.net
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bob Bean <slyck(at)frontiernet.net> |
good evening all, I did my wing (only one?) on saw horses but left out
the rib flange/spar rivets. Then I threw it in a pickup and took it over
to the local cabinet shop where they have the world's flattest saw
table.
Then I just pulled a couple rivets in each rib and took it home to
finish
it off. --Nice and straight - no twist. -BB
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Robjin77(at)aol.com |
I live in Lakeland was out to the Sun and Fun fly in. Became interested in
the Kolb.I know very little about them but liked the way they fold up. Would
like to buy a late model Firestar II. If you know of any for sale please
give them my phone number or E mail address. R.C. Younkin 863 984 3195,
RobJin77(at)aol.com. Thankyou
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Gogittum Lar" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
Harrrrr................how much money ya got ?? Lar. Do
not Archive.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: <Timandjan(at)aol.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: Kit wanted
>
> I am ready to built another Kolb, prefer a Slingshot or Mark3. I like to
> build as much as fly so I want a project. I would love to find a project
that
> someone has started and decided not to finish, does anybody know of one
> available. Keep me in mind if anybody comes across one.
>
> Great flying yesterday, the thermals were excellent, amazing at how nice
the
> Firestar2 does in thermalling.
>
> Tim
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "N.B. DelMore" <mk3(at)inr.net> |
> > Ultralight:
> > Ultralight grand champion-Kolb Mark III, Dwayne Woods, Taylorsville
GA
OK .. So how does one build a legal ultralight out of MK III ?
No being a smart-ass here, honestly, I just didn't think it was
possible.
Regards
Noel
MKIII - Nashua, NH
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "N.B. DelMore" <mk3(at)inr.net> |
Subject: | Vertical Wing Jig |
Before I started the MKIII I had a 'fling' with an RV6 kit, but decided
to forgo same due to the time and astronomical increses in pricing on
Lycoming engines.
The gentleman that described the vertical posts to be used as a
jig/fixture is exactly how it is done on the RV aircraft kits. It works
very well so long as your 'jig' is made of good dry fir or similar.
What you don't want it to do is, as it dries, twist on you while your
wing is in the jig. Maintiaining level (vertical and horizontal) is not
much of an issue as you can check it occassionally and adjust
accordingly with shims if necessary.
I lucked out and found a stash of old fir 4X4X12's in a small local
lumber yard that was slowly dying due to all the megastores that moved
into the area. I bought all they had as they where dry as a bone,
straight as an arrow and absolutely clear wood. My wife still gives me
the evil eye every time she walks past my coveted pile in the garage.
Others have used smaller steel or aluminum box beams and/or I-Beams
picked up at the local metal distrubutors. But frankly, that's a bit of
overkill.
Not only does such a jig work well for fabrication purposes but, I would
assume,for covering etc. as well since you get to work on both sides
without a having to flip the wing on the bench or sawhorse.
Regards
Noel
MKIII - Nashua, NH
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | dixieshack(at)webtv.net (Mike and Dixie Shackelford) |
Subject: | Re: "How much money ya got...." |
Whatsa matta U? Get that thing finished!! Park that V-dub and finish
pore ol' Vamoose afore she needs recovered! Whaddya gonna tell people
at Sun-N-Fun next year?
Dodge diesels, VW dune buggies.....man, where's yer loyalty?
KOLBS forever!!
Sorry I missed ya Lar.
buddy Mike
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | gtb(at)georgesmail.com |
From: | "George Bass" <gtb(at)georgesmail.com> |
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Re: Factory Email System
Date: Mon, 6 May 2002 11:29:55 -0700
Mr. Cooley (and the Entire Kolb List);
I am grateful for your comments and very much relieved
that the atmosphere is becoming far more "pro" TNK and
Company than it had been before my earlier statements. I
had always hoped it would be this way, as this is the plane
that I hope to own.
I'm a bit saddened that someone (me) had to make a few
negative reflections of coments made by some others, in order
that we could 'hear' the more common and supportive types
of relationships that MOST Kolbers have with their parent
company.
Again, I thank those of you who have revitalized my own
trust, faith and encouragement to continue (or begin) working
with The New Kolb Kompany. Please don't hesitate to add
more of the positive comments whenever they occur, it aonly
supports the original belief that this is the best company in the
ultralight business (personal thoughts, of course).
George Bass
USUA ID # 80399
USUA Club # 555
USUA Club # 770
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Re: Elevator & Rudder Gap Seals |
> John Hauck,
> Got any comments on this, you seem to be the list expert on the Kolbs.
> jerryb
jerryb/Gang:
You got the wrong guy. No expurtz at this address.
I have never experiemented with gap seals on tail surfaces,
only on flaps and ailerons.
I have thought about it, but never got around to actually
putting tape to tail..........
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | WillUribe(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: sawhorses or table? |
> I wish that I had put pictures of me building my
> Firestar II wings on my website. A picture would
> explain the advantage of sawhorses better than I can.
> The main reason that they are better than a table is
> that you can stand between the ribs and under the wing
> to drill and pull rivets. I built my sawhorses taller
> than normal so that I would not have to been over too
> much. The sawhorses were also used for covering. I
> built a large table, too, but all it got used for was
> building the tail and holding tools and stuff.
Here are some pictures of me building my wings on sawhorses.
http://members.aol.com/guillermou/69.jpg
http://members.aol.com/guillermoU/57.jpg
Regards,
Will Uribe
El Paso, TX
FireStar II N4GU
C-172 N2506U
http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "N.B. DelMore" <mk3(at)inr.net> |
Subject: | Laminating Blueprints |
After going through two sets of blueprints at $100 a pop, due to
water/soda/coffee/etc spills or someone deciding to scribble all over
them I went looking for blueprint-sized sheet protectors for my latest
set.
Apparently no one makes them, so I dropped by my local Kinko's to see if
they could copy them only to discover that they could laminated them for
slightly more than the cost to copy.
It cost $150.00 to do so, but with the purchase of a couple of grease
pencils, I hope to never have to buy another set.
Just thought I'd pass it on.
Regards
Noel
MK III - Nashua, NH
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Robert Laird <rlaird(at)cavediver.com> |
Subject: | Re: Laminating Blueprints |
There's a MUCH cheaper, easier method...
Just go down to the store and buy some clear packing tape, the widest you
can fine. Have someone help you hold the blueprints taut (or Scotch-tape
them to a clean floor) while you apply the strips necessary to cover
it. If you want a complete job, then do the back, overlapping (front and
back), and then you can trim it so the edges are nice and smooth. Yes,
it's the "Bubba" method, and it's not as cool, but it's about $140 cheaper
and has the same result: waterproof, and you can use grease pens on it.
-- Robert
At 08:00 PM 5/6/2002, you wrote:
>After going through two sets of blueprints at $100 a pop, due to
>water/soda/coffee/etc spills or someone deciding to scribble all over
>them I went looking for blueprint-sized sheet protectors for my latest
>set.
>
>Apparently no one makes them, so I dropped by my local Kinko's to see if
>they could copy them only to discover that they could laminated them for
>slightly more than the cost to copy.
>
>It cost $150.00 to do so, but with the purchase of a couple of grease
>pencils, I hope to never have to buy another set.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Woody <duesouth(at)iname.com> |
DON'T DO IT LAR!!
There will be many upset listers who have put up with your whining for
years and then to have you throw in the towel just doesn't see right.
Probably have to send a posse out to the desert to round you up and take
embarrassing photos of you sitting in a quicksilver.
>
>Harrrrr................how much money ya got ?? Lar. Do
>not Archive.
>
>Larry Bourne
>Palm Springs, Ca.
>Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
>http://www.gogittum.com
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: <Timandjan(at)aol.com>
>To:
>Subject: Kolb-List: Kit wanted
>
>
> >
> > I am ready to built another Kolb, prefer a Slingshot or Mark3. I like to
> > build as much as fly so I want a project. I would love to find a project
>that
> > someone has started and decided not to finish, does anybody know of one
> > available. Keep me in mind if anybody comes across one.
> >
> > Great flying yesterday, the thermals were excellent, amazing at how nice
>the
> > Firestar2 does in thermalling.
> >
> > Tim
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Gogittum Lar" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
Hrumph ! ! ! Laying there wide awake with insomnia, so figured it might
as well be productive insomnia. 3:30 in the morning, out here on the
"Best Coast." Tomorrow at work is gonna be fun, you bet. 2 things have
stirred up a little more comment lately than I would have guessed, and I
seem to be back-asswards here, but I'll put in my .02 worth anyway:
1) Table vs Saw Horses, for building wings.............several
have had excellent results building their wings on saw horses, and
that's great..........it's critical that the wings are absolutely true.
I built my KIT on a large, solid table, and after reading and thinking,
I believe I'd do the same over again. As specified on my website, my
table was 4' x 16', very solid, and carefully squared and levelled.
This gave me the room, and the platform to build paired ailerons, flaps,
and elevators. This ensured that: a.) I wouldn't make the error of
building, say, 2 left, or 2 right components, (it HAS been done) and:
b.) that if I did make a small error on 1 component, at least the error
would be the same on both sides, and the parts would be balanced. When
time to build the wings came along, I sure wasn't going to dismantle a
perfectly good, solid table, and I didn't have the space to create a
separate work area. I had no problems reaching any portion of those
wings by going around the table, and the idea of crawling under a 1/2
built wing, and standing back up in the middle of the wing with my
arthritic knees didn't appeal. Also, it wasn't necessary. After double
checking to be sure the table was still true, I started building, and
when the top of the wing was locked in, flipped it over - 30 seconds
moderate effort - rechecked it for square, blocked the leading and
trailing edges to keep it that way, and rivetted the bottom. Worked
extremely well, and I believe my wings to be true and square. The bench
was also very useful for the 1001 little chores that come up on a
project like this. 2.) Many of you have found your
relationship with TNK to be positive and satisfying, and this too, is
good..........it's as it should be. Please keep in mind tho', that it
hasn't been the case all down the line, as several of us have noted
regarding their attitude at Sun n Fun. Also, if memory serves, they
were far less than enthusiastic regarding the fly-in last year; and only
relented and showed a grudging OK, when pretty well confronted with a
done deal. Possibly (??) they monitor this List, even tho' I don't
believe I've ever seen a response from them, and have felt the need to
modify their attitude. I doubt it, but it's possible. Note the
difference..............Dennis Souder still follows the Kolb List, and
makes his expertise available............long after any responsibility
on his part has ended. I by no means intend to start a
squabble.............but I do feel there are 2 sides to everything, and
both should be presented. Amicable Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.gogittum.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | <s6es116(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: Laminating Blueprints |
Actually, there an even BETTER way than the "clear
tape" method.
Go to your local Wally World (aka Wal*Mart) and buy a
roll of clear contact paper. Also called shelving
paper, its the stuff used to cover the interior of
kitchen cabinets and such. Most of what you'll find
is patterned in all sorts of colors and prints, but
they'll have clear as well. As previously mentioned,
tape your blueprints down to a large, flat surface.
Start the contact paper at one end and SLOWLY peel
away the backing while laying it down on the
blueprint. Take your time, make sure you keep it
straight, and smooth out any bubbles as you go.
In the end, you'll have a very nice covering. This is
how we used to laminate maps in the military in the
days before the Kinkos-type laminating machine.
drc
From: Robert Laird <rlaird(at)cavediver.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Laminating Blueprints
There's a MUCH cheaper, easier method...
Just go down to the store and buy some clear packing
tape, the widest you can fine. Have someone help you
hold the blueprints taut (or Scotch-tape them to a
clean floor) while you apply the strips necessary to
cover it. If you want a complete job, then do the
back, overlapping (front and back), and then you can
trim it so the edges are nice and smooth. Yes, it's
the "Bubba" method, and it's not as cool, but it's
about $140 cheaper and has the same result:
waterproof, and you can use grease pens on it.
-- Robert
At 08:00 PM 5/6/2002, you wrote:
>After going through two sets of blueprints at $100 a
pop, due to water/soda/coffee/etc spills or someone
deciding to scribble all over them I went looking for
blueprint-sized sheet protectors for my latest set.
>
>Apparently no one makes them, so I dropped by my
local Kinko's to see if they could copy them only to
discover that they could laminated them for slightly
more than the cost to copy. It cost $150.00 to do so,
but with the purchase of a couple of grease pencils, I
hope to never have to buy another set.
http://health.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "James, Ken" <KDJames(at)berkscareer.com> |
Subject: | Re: Laminating Blueprints |
Yep Kmart shelving paper is the way to go!! I covered many, many maps in the
Army with it! only real problem is it will absorb ink left on for a couple
of weeks, so use it and clean it and it will work great.
Ken James
Drafting Design Instructor
Berks Career and Technology Center
3307 Freidensburg Rd.
Oley Pa. 19547
610-987-6201 Ext 3532
Kdjames(at)berkscareer.com
In the end, you'll have a very nice covering. This is
how we used to laminate maps in the military in the
days before the Kinkos-type laminating machine.
drc
From: Robert Laird <rlaird(at)cavediver.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Laminating Blueprints
There's a MUCH cheaper, easier method...
Just go down to the store and buy some clear packing
tape, the widest you can fine. Have someone help you
hold the blueprints taut (or Scotch-tape them to a
clean floor) while you apply the strips necessary to
cover it. If you want a complete job, then do the
back, overlapping (front and back), and then you can
trim it so the edges are nice and smooth. Yes, it's
the "Bubba" method, and it's not as cool, but it's
about $140 cheaper and has the same result:
waterproof, and you can use grease pens on it.
-- Robert
At 08:00 PM 5/6/2002, you wrote:
>After going through two sets of blueprints at $100 a
pop, due to water/soda/coffee/etc spills or someone
deciding to scribble all over them I went looking for
blueprint-sized sheet protectors for my latest set.
>
>Apparently no one makes them, so I dropped by my
local Kinko's to see if they could copy them only to
discover that they could laminated them for slightly
more than the cost to copy. It cost $150.00 to do so,
but with the purchase of a couple of grease pencils, I
hope to never have to buy another set.
http://health.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "louis friedman" <lfriedman2001(at)attbi.com> |
Subject: | Re: Tables and Kolb |
I'm a lurker. I usually find more value in listening then talking, but it
seems that
another pirep is in order.
1)I spent the whole week at Sun n Fun. Camped under my old 172. Met John H.,
the guys at Litespeed and TNK. I was impressed enough to put my money
down on a Mark III Classic. I found everyone professional, courteous, and
friendly.
Since then I've visited London, Ky, and found everyone at the factory
delightful.
In fact, I even got a phone call from one of the guys, checking to see that
I
got back to Atlanta okay. They spent far more time then they needed to
making sure I got off to a good start.
I recommend a factory tour to anyone considering building a Kolb.
Seems like I've been in almost daily contact with TNK since I started
building.
Every phone call has been returned. Every question answered.
For what it's worth, a pirep from a year ago isn't
worth my $.02. I believe my pirep is worth what you paid for it. I'll be
sure to let you know
if my "opinion" changes.
2)I believe in following the advise of those that have the most experience.
The manual,
as well as those that I spoke with at Litespeed and TNK told me to use saw
horses.
I bought a steel pair, with adjustable legs, at my local hardware store for
about $40.
After leveling and securing them, I built a flat surface for the jigs for
the tail assembly and
placed it on the saw horses.
I'll follow TNK's advise for building the wings.
I started watching this thread when someone reported that they had had less
then satisfactory
response from TNK. Seems that the kits went out before the plans were
finished. Those
producing the plans are trying to make sure that the plans were worth
waiting for. I guess that's
the price you pay for being on the leading edge.
Two side of the story? I once overheard two old guys watching a really
ridiculous display
of human behavior. One of them said to the other, "Takes all kinds." The
other retorted,
"No it doesn't, we got all kinds. There's a few we could do without."
Sept 11 hit the aircraft community pretty hard. It's may take a while for
things get back to
normal. A little patience may be in order until that time. BTW if you're in
or around the
Atlanta area, I'm pretty active in our local EAA chapter (690). I'd love for
you to stop
by and talk about anything aviation (or anything else) related. I'm off to
PDK help
with B-17 tours. I've been at LZU all weekend helping out. I sat up in the
left seat and pretended
I knew something about that big taildragger. Pretty big thrill.
Thanks to all for the really great stuff on this list. I'm visiting all the
sites I can find and listening
to all of the mods that have been tried. Maybe I'll
get a site set up for my stuff before too long. For now I want to
concentrate on building. I'll publish
the documentation later.
More to follow - I'm sure
Lou Friedman
Lilburn, GA
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gogittum Lar" <biglar(at)gogittum.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: Tables and Kolb
>
> Hrumph ! ! ! Laying there wide awake with insomnia, so figured it might
> as well be productive insomnia. 3:30 in the morning, out here on the
> "Best Coast." Tomorrow at work is gonna be fun, you bet. 2 things have
> stirred up a little more comment lately than I would have guessed, and I
> seem to be back-asswards here, but I'll put in my .02 worth anyway:
> 1) Table vs Saw Horses, for building wings.............several
> have had excellent results building their wings on saw horses, and
.......
2.) Many of you have found your
> relationship with TNK to be positive and satisfying, and this too, is
> good..........it's as it should be. Please keep in mind tho', that it
>
> Larry Bourne
> Palm Springs, Ca.
> Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
> http://www.gogittum.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Jung <jrjungjr(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: Tables and Kolb |
Lou,
I glad that you came out of "lurking". From your post,
it looks like you will be a valuable asset to the
list.
John Jung
--- louis friedman wrote:
>
>
> I'm a lurker. I usually find more value in listening
> then talking, but it
> seems that
> another pirep is in order.
snip............
http://health.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "H MITCHELL" <mitchmnd(at)msn.com> |
Subject: | Lakeland '02 Group Pictures |
I have no taken the time to figure out how to get the pics from our Lakeland/Sonny's
Bar-b-que "meeting" to the list. It took about two minutes after I remembered
that our Kolb List host had added this capability a few
months ago, bless his high-tech heart.
Duane the Plane, Tallahassee, FL, Firefly/Mk3-912
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: The space between |
From: | Erich_Weaver(at)URSCorp.com |
05/07/2002 11:55:00 AM
Listers:
On my Mrk III there is a significant gap between the top of my windshield
and the leading edge of my wing gap seal. Seems like I should be able to
pretty this area up some and perhaps make it a smidge more aerodynamic.
One way might be to replace the windshield and cut the new one so that the
top fits up against the gap seal. What do others have in this area, if
anything?
Regards,
Erich Weaver
erich_weaver(at)urscorp.com
130 Robin Hill Road, Suite 100
Santa Barbara, California 93117
Tel: 805-964-6010
fax: 805-964 0259
________________________________________________________________________________
Hi Folks,
Anyone have an UltraStar cage they want to sell?
Bill Griffin
Montgomery, Al
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | dcjcwcr27(at)juno.com |
KOLB FIRESTAR
New kolb Firestar modified to accept a 65 H.P. B>M>W> 2 cyl. opposed 4
cycle. Electric start, Engine runs great. Three blade adj . IVO prop.-
oversize tires with brakes--very complete panel- -trim.-New kit for this
plane would be over 9 K.! Many pictures on request. Absolutely great
workmanship!!Call for complete information.970-454-1580 or 970-454-0874
or DCJCWCR27(at)JUNO.COM Denver Colo Area.Asking $ 6950
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Kirby Dennis Contr ASC/TM <Dennis.Kirby(at)kirtland.af.mil> |
Subject: | Re: Trip To Kolb |
Ken Korenek asked:
< I also ordered the new Kuntzleman triple strobe light. Any
preference as to where to put the rear strobe? Should I put it atop
the vertical stabilizer or on the bottom of the tail boom? Anybody got
any opinions about this?
Also, should I build the wings on sawhorses or build a table? >
Ken -
I installed my Kuntzleman strobe near the top of my vertical fin. I
fashioned a saddle bracket from a scrap piece of aluminum tubing. Ran the
strobe wire inside the fin fabric near the strobe, and it exits the at the
bottom, near the tailring. Fished it thru with a piece of coat hanger wire.
From there, my strobe wire enters the the rear open end of the tailboom.
Very little wire is exposed to the slipstream.
As for building the wings, a table is not necessary. Use good, level
sawhorses. Taller is better, to make it easier for working on the
underside. Most important is that the sawhorses are level with each other,
so you don't build a permanent twist in the wings. Building the wings was
fun - enjoy!
Dennis Kirby
Mark-3, Verner-powered, nearly done (been saying that for months!)
Cedar Crest, NM
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: The space between |
Erich, I had the same concern with my MK3. Talked with Dennis years ago,
the solution was a piece of pipe insulation( the foam type like for air
cond. tubing) fitted around the windscreen top, works great..
R Harris MK3 912
you wrote..
> Listers:
>
> On my Mrk III there is a significant gap between the top of my windshield
>
>
> UN/
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "H MITCHELL" <mitchmnd(at)msn.com> |
Subject: | Lakeland Group Pic |
2nd try, sorry guys
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jon Croke" <Jon(at)joncroke.com> |
Subject: | Lakeland Group Pic on www.kolbpilot.com |
----- Original Message -----
From: "H MITCHELL" <mitchmnd(at)msn.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: Lakeland Group Pic
>
> 2nd try, sorry guys
No...this time he's got it! Simply go to www.kolbpilot.com and find
Duane's Sun-n-Fun dinner pictures. They're pretty good!
But, we need NAMES to go with the faces.... so there is a link to email the
names of the attendees... be sure to specify the position (left to right,
etc) and which picture (1st, 2nd or 3rd). And please add any short stories
that might go with that dinner... very sorry to have missed it myself.
Thanks
Jon
near Green Bay
FSII
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jon Croke" <Jon(at)joncroke.com> |
Subject: | Have you seen an Ultrastar? |
BTW,
Jeff Jones sent some great pics of his UltraStar... posted on
www.kolbpilot.com
I have never seen one before in real life... but now I know what they
look like!
Jon
near Green Bay
FSII
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Airgriff2(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 19 Msgs - 05/07/02 |
In a message dated 5/8/02 2:51:09 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
kolb-list-digest(at)matronics.com writes:
> On my Mrk III there is a significant gap between the top of my windshield
> and the leading edge of my wing gap seal.
My MK3 has a 1/2 to 3/4" gap at the top of the windshield also. I am using a
piece of round foam. Home Depot sells it for 1/2" pipe insulation. It has a
slit in it which will slide over the edge of the windshield. I guess this
works ok if the gap is the right size. One section of mine ended up being
loose, so I need to come up with a method to hold it in place better. Tie
wrap or lace it with rawhide.
Safe flying
Bob Griffin
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | windshield/gap seal sealer |
From: | "Jim Gerken" <gerken(at)us.ibm.com> |
05/08/2002 06:58:36 AM
>On my Mrk III there is a significant gap between the top of my windshield
>and the leading edge of my wing gap seal. Seems like I should be able to
>pretty this area up some and perhaps make it a smidge more aerodynamic.
>One way might be to replace the windshield and cut the new one so that the
>top fits up against the gap seal. What do others have in this area, if
>anything?
>Regards,
>Erich Weaver
Erich, I see that someone already suggested foam pipe insulation. I hadn't
thought of that and it may be a great idea to fill the area and produce a
smoother airflow. However, on my mkiii, I use foam garage door
weatherstrip. You can buy it at the local Home Improvement store, a
Stanley company product, it is sort of a flattened "L" shape. If you buy a
roll for about 6 bucks, and hold it up there a few different ways, you will
soon see how its natural curl will make it fit just right. I put thin
lexan strips over it and rivetted thru to the bottom of the gapseal. It
attaches to the gapseal and slides right back against the windshield when
you put on the gapseal.
Jim
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jack & Louise Hart <jbhart(at)ldd.net> |
Subject: | Victor 1+ Start Up |
We have been having rain here for about two weeks and the forecast is for
rain for the next week. Yesterday I was able to start the Victor 1+ for
the first time. I tied it to the pickup, primed it with 3cc of gas,
activated the choker and opened the throttle just a little. If fired up on
the first rotation of the prop.
I could run it only a little while before the rain came and I had to put it
back in the hangar. And since the prop is not set for upper load yet, fuel
flow data has no meaning. But I was impressed with how quiet it is. The
muffler is much more effective than was the one on the Rotax 447. And it
idles very slowly without loading up and misfiring and so there is no
jamming of gears (belt drive) or cage jerking around. Throttle response is
good. I did not run it over 4000 rpm, because I did not have wing trailing
edge prop clearance detectors in place. At idle, one can hear a high
pitched snap of vanes closing.
I still have to get the aileron trim reconnected, and to make a outboard
brace to support the control line manifold, and then it will be ready to
fly. When I get some fuel flow data, speed data, and some engine on the
plane photos, I will put them up on the web. I made some other changes,
such as, a new windshield out of .030 thick lexan, lighter seat belt
system, and added a nose safety light. The FireFly weighed out a pound and
a half less than the original.
Jack B. Hart FF004
Jackson, MO
Jack & Louise Hart
jbhart(at)ldd.net
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Woody <duesouth(at)iname.com> |
I just got back from the weekly "build a mk3 project". We did the
gap seals today according to the instruction manual. Pg 78 I believe. We
cut 3 " wide strips of fabric for the gap seals ( we ran out of finishing
tape) and installed them with thinned down poly tac. Total time including
cutting the strips and teaching new guys how to apply the strips and heat
sealing the edges - 1 1/2 hr. Is book binding tape this easy, cost
effective and long lasting?
A few months ago there was a lot of comments on gap seals for the
elevators. I have always had these on the planes I flew and it seemed to
make a difference to the guys that installed them later on. Why would Kolb
say no when practical experience says yes?
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dennis Souder" <flykolb(at)pa.net> |
Subject: | Re: more gap seal |
Woody,
The need for gap seals is proportional to the size of gap. The larger the
gap, the more a gap seal will help. The gap between the elevators (and
rudder) on Kolbs is close, less than 1/2 inch. Not much air can get through
that small gap. As I recall we had tried them and did not feel we could
determine they made any difference.
The ailerons are another story, significant difference here! One time a
customer complained about the way his plane was handling. For some reason
the discussion never went to where it should have gone. After numerous
attempts to diagnose the problem on the phone, and out of frustration, the
customer sent his corporate plane and pilot up to Kolbs and picked up Dan
our flight instructor and few him to where the aircraft was. As soon as Dan
started looking at the Mark-III he spotted the problem right away - no
aileron gap seals. He put them on and it made a big difference ... customer
now happy camper. This Mark-III happened to be in London KY. And now you
know the rest of the story.
Good day!
Dennis
----- Original Message -----
From: "Woody" <duesouth(at)iname.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: more gap seal
>
> I just got back from the weekly "build a mk3 project". We did the
> gap seals today according to the instruction manual. Pg 78 I believe. We
> cut 3 " wide strips of fabric for the gap seals ( we ran out of finishing
> tape) and installed them with thinned down poly tac. Total time including
> cutting the strips and teaching new guys how to apply the strips and heat
> sealing the edges - 1 1/2 hr. Is book binding tape this easy, cost
> effective and long lasting?
> A few months ago there was a lot of comments on gap seals for the
> elevators. I have always had these on the planes I flew and it seemed to
> make a difference to the guys that installed them later on. Why would Kolb
> say no when practical experience says yes?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Airgriff2(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 5 Msgs - 05/08/02 |
In a message dated 5/9/02 2:51:43 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
kolb-list-digest(at)matronics.com writes:
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
>
Was wodering if the Kolb photoshare was working ok? When I click on, the
latest one to see is dated March 15th ?
Bob G
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | cartejy <cartejy(at)valunet.com> |
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________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Ken Korenek <ken-foi(at)attbi.com> |
Subject: | Galvanic Protection |
Kolbers,
I've got a bench assembled to construct my 7 rib wings on; It's
level and sturdy and waist high.
Now, my question is:
What have you all used for galvanic protection when putting
stainless rivets into aluminum?
The two metals are way apart on the scale and some kind of protection is
required. My cheat sheets and advice from a Materials Engineer at a
previous employer requires that I use epoxy primer. Way too much
trouble!!
What did ya'll do?
*********************
Ken W. Korenek
ken-foi(at)attbi.com
FireStar II, Rebuilding 7 Rib Wings
4906 Oak Springs Drive
Arlington, Texas 76016
817-572-6832 voice
817-572-6842 fax
817-657-6500 cell
817-483-8054 home
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Ken Korenek <ken-foi(at)attbi.com> |
Subject: | Manual / Drawing Errors |
Hey, Kolbers-
Has anybody built a wing lately?
What are the errors in the manual and/or the plans? I've seen some
typos and some omissions, but haven't identified any incorrect
dimensions yet.
What are some of the pitfalls I need to be aware of?
Any other tips to make life easier?
I start tomorrow (Saturday) morning...
the ***Rookie*** who is trying to build a wing
*********************
Ken W. Korenek
ken-foi(at)attbi.com
FireStar II, Rebuilding 7 Rib Wings
4906 Oak Springs Drive
Arlington, Texas 76016
817-572-6832 voice
817-572-6842 fax
817-657-6500 cell
817-483-8054 home
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bob Stripes" <stripes(at)voicenet.com> |
Subject: | galvanic protection..... |
You'll do more damage sliding the ribs down the spar than a stainless
rivet will ever do....
I've been flying in factory built cessnas and pipers for years, and
hanging out with mechanics for longer. Never has a stainless rivet ever
caused a problem that i've seen.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jon Croke" <Jon(at)joncroke.com> |
Subject: | Re: Lakeland Group Pic on www.kolbpilot.com |
Hmmm........
Only 2 pilots have acknowledged their presence in the photos at the
Sun-n-Fun Kolb dinner (www.kolbpilot.com)
Are the rest of the people at the table simply unknown, random guests that
stopped by for dinner?? Maybe they ARE kolb pilots but are not members of
this list?
I will say that I love that Kolb shirt seen in the first picture, person on
the right. Is that a custom job, or standard issue from TNK?? I'll take
one.... but who is that wearing it??
I have labeled the names of the 2 pilots on the photos.... let's hear from
some more......!
Thanks
Jon
near Green Bay
FSII
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Airgriff2(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 9 Msgs - 05/10/02 |
In a message dated 5/11/02 2:51:31 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
kolb-list-digest(at)matronics.com writes:
> Has anybody built a wing lately?
>
>
Ken, I remember one thing I did when building my wings, that was a big help.
Test fit each rib over the end of the spar. Sort them out by the most loose
and tightest. The loosest ones will be slid on the furthest to the other end
of the spar. I also used a lubricant of some kind. Can't remember just what ?
Good luck and take your time and enjoy the building process.
Fly safe
Bob G
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | <gdledbetter1(at)fuse.net> |
Subject: | Re: Lakeland Group Pic on www.kolbpilot.com |
That person on the right with the custom shirt is Gene Ledbetter
Firefly @ 85 hours
Cincinnati
and the shirt was made and given to me by Margaret and Duane Mitchell, aka Duane
the Plane. I had the pleasure of attending S & F with Duane.
Meeting all the Kolbers was a good time and it was especially good to meet the
Icelander and UK folks.
Gene
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Manual / Drawing Errors |
In a message dated 5/10/02 9:02:40 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
ken-foi(at)attbi.com writes:
<<
What are the errors in the manual and/or the plans? I've seen some
typos and some omissions, but haven't identified any incorrect
dimensions yet.
What are some of the pitfalls I need to be aware of?
Any other tips to make life easier?
I start tomorrow (Saturday) morning...
the ***Rookie*** who is trying to build a wing
>>
Make sure the wing tips are lined up perfectly....it too easy to have one of
them up and the other one down just a smidgeon.....and you know what that
causes.
George Randolph
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Erich_Weaver(at)URSCorp.com |
Subject: | Re: grounded out antennae |
05/11/2002 02:27:42 PM
On occasion, I use an intercom with my handheld Icom A22 radio for
two-place communications. Ive always used an independent battery pack for
the radio - never bothered to hardwire into the electronics of the plane.
Trouble is, I sometimes get unacceptable interference from the intercom
when I transmit. After a bunch of experimentation, I discovered if I have
new batteries in the radio, no interference. But after use for just a
flight or two, I get the interference, even though the batteries have
plenty of life left in them. Not quite sure what the deal is with that.
A light finally went off, and I got the brilliant idea of wiring in the
power source for the radio and doing away with the battery pack, 'cept for
'mergencies. However, when I started to wire in the power source and did
some preliminary testing, I got a short before even hooking up the ground
wire. Temporarily baffled, I started looking for the cause. Turns out the
short was through my radio antennae, which was grounded to the frame
through the aluminum sheet metal that forms the ground plane. No damage to
my radio -got lucky there maybe. Now Ive got a chore getting the ground
plane isolated from the frame. I had read on the List previously that the
groundplane should be independent from the frame, but I wasnt having any
problems, and didnt do anything about it. Now I have a reason - maybe
someone else out there will have a reason too.
Still havent figured out if all this bother will fix my original intercom
interference problem. Time will tell I guess. I never seem to feel very
confident doing radio and electrical work. I can always find a reason to
delay electrical work - specially when the sky is blue and calm.
regards,
Erich weaver
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jimmy <jhankin(at)planters.net> |
Subject: | Re: grounded out antennae |
Erich,
I just installed a antenna for my A22 Icom radio in my Firefly. After
stripping the center out of the braided ground portion I twisted the braid
very tight and using a clear 1/4" I. D. tube I pulled the braid through with
a string and bent the braid over the outside of the tube and taped it to
secure it. I then ran the ground down the center of aluminum plate and used
velcro to secure it in place, isolating it from the frame ground.
The center section was run over the inside of the nose cone and taped in
place after using a SWR meter to set the antenna length. It seems to work
very good. Use SWR meter to place the cable in the nose cone, signal will
vary in placement of the antenna portion. The needle will barely move when
the transanmitter is keyed.
I had to look for the correct coax cable, not all grounds or braids are
good, find one that has a copper looking braid, this lets you strip the
center cable out very easy. Cable was run on the side opposite of the
instrument cables.
Jimmy Hankinson
912-863-7384
Rocky Ford, Ga. 30455
jhankin(at)planters.net
Kolb Firefly/447/210hrs
Local field, Pegasus/2000/Grass
Airport JYL/Sylvania, Ga.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jack & Louise Hart <jbhart(at)ldd.net> |
Subject: | Re: Fatal Kolb Crash In Indiana |
Ralph,
For the past several days, I visited my daughter and her family in
Winchester, Indiana. I drove out to the airport and asked a few questions.
A flight instructor said flying conditions were ideal. I asked it there
were any structural failures that lead to the crash, and the answer was
that there was not enough left to tell. Evidently the "two place" Kolb
dove vertically into the ground. The flight instructor's analysis as to
the reason for the crash was "too low and too slow." The pilot was a low
timer.
Jack B. Hart FF004
Jackson, MO
>
>Does anyone know anything about this crash?
>Ralph
>*********************************************
>THE ULTRALIGHT THAT CRASHED IN INDIANA WAS NOT A TRIKE; IT WAS A KOLB
>ULTRALIGHT. I AM ONLY ABOUT 5 MIN. FROM THE AIRPORT WHERE IT HAPPENED,
>AND HAVE SEEN THE PLANE UP CLOSE, AND TALKED TO THE DECEASED PILOT ON
>DIFFERENT OCCASIONS. NO DETAILS ABOUT THE CAUSE OF THE ACCIDENT YET.
>
>An ultra-light aircraft crashed Tuesday night just short of a runway at
>the Randolph County Airport, killing the pilot. Brook Fleming, 44, was
>said Fleming, who was flying alone, suffered head and chest injuries.
>Witnesses saw Fleming's aircraft "dip to the left, then go down," said
>Ken Hendrickson, chief deputy of the Randolph County Sheriff's
>Department. The aircraft was apparently about 100 feet in the air when it
>began its fatal plunge, he said.
Jack & Louise Hart
jbhart(at)ldd.net
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | SGreenpg(at)aol.com |
Subject: | EIS with Altimeter |
Kolbers,
For all who use an EIS with altimeter option (early version), here is a
procedure I use when flying cross-country. This applies to the models that
do not have the altimeter setting displayed along with the field elevation.
(The new versions have the altimeter setting displayed along with the
elevation.)
Before takeoff set the altimeter to field elevation and note the altimeter
setting from AWOS or ATIS. While enroute listen to AWOS or ATIS broadcasts
along the way. If the setting changes i.e. 30.08 at departure field and now
it is 30.13, your altimeter reading is 50' low. To correct this go into
setup and press the up button 5 times to increase the reading 50 feet. Don't
worry about trying to hold a constant altitude while changing the setting as
long as you press the up button 5 times you will increase the reading 50 feet
regardless of how much the reading is changing while you are in setup.
At the altitudes that most of us fly 1 inch of mercury is equivalent to about
1000 feet altitude. 0.1 inches of mercury is equivalent to 100 feet and 0.01
inches is equivalent to 10 feet. Since the EIS changes the elevation in
increments of 10 just change the elevation one increment of ten feet (one
push of the button) for each hundredth of an inch of mercury that the
pressure changes. If the pressure goes up the reading needs to go up. If
the pressure goes down the reading needs to go down.
This is really pretty simple after you do it a few times.
I realize this is unimportant for most of the flying that we do but on a
cross country flight every time I talk to an ATC at a controlled field they
ask for my altitude, I do not have a mode C transponder, and I want it to be
close.
Steven Green
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Robert Laird <rlaird(at)cavediver.com> |
Subject: | Re: Hirth F30 ES engine |
My brother flies a Challenger with a Hirth 2706... this last weekend, he
had an engine out... right now we don't have a firm determination, but it
appears to be due to one of the cylinders overheating. He's okay, but the
landing gear is toast. To Hirth's credit, they are going to provide all
parts under warranty, even though the warranty period just expired a month ago.
Up until this incident, he had been very happy with the Hirth. He's less
happy now.
-- R
At 09:23 PM 5/11/2002, you wrote:
>
>
> You got lucky on this question. Pick up this months Kit planes and there
>is a very favourable article about the f 30. Some owners are getting high
>hours on them. NO one has a bad word for them. I have heard many bad things
>about the Hirth from Rotax guys but trying to nail down anything is hard to
>do. I even got on the Challenger list to find out about the Hirth
>dependability but no one there could really give me first hand accounts of
>poor dependability. I fly a Hirth 2703 and a friend has a 2706 on his Mk3
>and we have had no real problems with them. I have an F 30 in the basement
>that needs a gearbox and carbs and when I get my new plane flying on the
>582 I will save my pennies and buy the needed parts and fly the f 30
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jon Croke" <Jon(at)joncroke.com> |
Subject: | Re: Lakeland Group Pic on www.kolbpilot.com |
Thanks!
You might check that I got it correct.
BTW, is Duane missing from the picture altogether? (the price the
photographer pays for shooting the picture??)
Jon
Subject: Re: Re: Kolb-List: Lakeland Group Pic on www.kolbpilot.com
>
> That person on the right with the custom shirt is Gene Ledbetter
> Firefly @ 85 hours
> Cincinnati
> and the shirt was made and given to me by Margaret and Duane Mitchell, aka
Duane the Plane. I had the pleasure of attending S & F with Duane.
> Meeting all the Kolbers was a good time and it was especially good to meet
the Icelander and UK folks.
> Gene
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Roger L" <rogerlov(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Subject: | Stainless Steel Covering? |
I've been talking to several guys about their wing covering systems and got
to wondering if anyone had ever covered with thin stainless steel sheet
instead of the traditional polyester cloth and vinyl paint?
Stainless is one of those metals that rolls out real thin while
remaining tough and strong. The sheet can be bought as flat sheets or on a
roll.
I'm guessing that the weight and cost is roughly the same between
cloth/paint and metal sheet. Both can be pulled tight over the ribs, though
the methods are different. The SS sheet would hold an advantage for smooth
surface because it is springy enough to bend into nice curves. And of course
it is very weather resistant.
There must be a reason why people don't use it. Maybe it doesn't paint
well or maybe I just haven't run across the designs that do.
Roger L.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | rrcarl <rrcarl(at)nhvt.net> |
Subject: | W32.Klez.E removal tools |
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________________________________________________________________________________
From: | b young <byoung(at)brigham.net> |
Subject: | Re:wiring of radio and intercom |
<<<>>>
the short------ i am not sure but here is one thing you
can test for... make sure that all the equipment you are
using is designed for "negitive ground." if you have some -
ground and some + ground there would be a problem.... when
working with independent batery sources it may not be
noticable. but when working with a single source it could
cause the problems you have.
the problems with the interference could be caused by the
signal to noise ratio.... good bateries could give you a
good ratio and as the bateries go down the ratio may become
bad enough to cause the problems. or the posibility may
be that with low power you are transmiting spurious
emitions which are radio frequencies outside the main
frequencie you are using which in turn affect the
intercom....
boyd
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "H MITCHELL" <mitchmnd(at)msn.com> |
Subject: | Re: Stainless Steel Covering? |
Roger et al,
During the Cold War I worked at Cape Kennedy on the Air Forces' Titan ICBM program.
Our major U.S. competitor was the Atlas missile which had a skin of very
thin stainless steel. Because the structure had no framework the vehicle had to
be filled with propellant or pressurized with N2 to maintain it's launch-ready
shape. If the vehicle was not filled with propellants or gas it collapsed like
a 90-foot toy balloon. The ones used in displays were equipped with a internal
framework especially made for displays. The metal was so thin it would yield
to a finger touch.
... If you use such a system to skin Kolb wings you may find that equivalent Wt/strength
SS would have to be so thin that pressurization would be
required. The Kolb wing framework would make a difference in the required thickness
but problems with cutting, shaping and fastening this material would be daunting.
To learn more about this application you may want to
consult USAF archives because a lot of R&D has already been done.
Duane the plane, Tallahassee, FL FireFly/Mk3-912
----- Original Message -----
From: Roger L
Subject: Kolb-List: Stainless Steel Covering?
I've been talking to several guys about their wing covering systems and got
to wondering if anyone had ever covered with thin stainless steel sheet
instead of the traditional polyester cloth and vinyl paint?
Stainless is one of those metals that rolls out real thin while
remaining tough and strong. The sheet can be bought as flat sheets or on
a
roll.
I'm guessing that the weight and cost is roughly the same between
cloth/paint and metal sheet. Both can be pulled tight over the ribs, though
the methods are different. The SS sheet would hold an advantage for smooth
surface because it is springy enough to bend into nice curves. And of course
it is very weather resistant.
There must be a reason why people don't use it. Maybe it doesn't paint
well or maybe I just haven't run across the designs that do.
Roger L.
=
=
=
=
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bill Shirley Mitchell <slandwcmitch(at)yahoo.com> |
Am looking for any Kolb 111 builders in Oregon. Am considering getting a kit but
would like to see firsthand .
Bill Mitchell sland wcmitch @yahoo.com
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Oregon Builders |
"Hi " Bill
I have a kolb mark 111, And I live in Roseburg,Or.
It is a
1995 model with 300 hours. Rotax 582 with 3.47 gear box and 72" warp drive
prop. If you would like to see it give me a call @ 541-679-3831 or e-mail
me, I would be happy to show it to you.
Thanks
Wayne Boyter
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Shirley Mitchell" <slandwcmitch(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: Oregon Builders
>
>
> Am looking for any Kolb 111 builders in Oregon. Am considering getting a
kit but would like to see firsthand .
>
> Bill Mitchell sland wcmitch @yahoo.com
>
>
> ---------------------------------
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
seems like i recall hearing that the owner/boss of the cgs hawk company had
a hirth failure en route to sun n fun. never heard any more. might be worth
cking on that list
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Edward Steuber" <esteuber(at)rochester.rr.com> |
Subject: | Ultrastar - Cayuna vibration |
I need advice from the Ultrastar - Cayuna drivers, past and present. on
a big problem I created that originally was a minor nuisance. I
originally bought an airframe that I modified to a center stick with
enclosure .Bob Bean submitted a picture to the Kolb list and it is the
first picture in the list. The engine ,gearbox,propellar combination was
a 202 Cayuna, Nova 2.04 gearbox,and Warp drive 50 inch diameter ground
adjustable prop. This combination was OK except for a slight surging
sensation at rpm above 5500.I did not like the chattering from the
gearbox at idle but I was more concerned with a modification that had
been made to the engine mount to correct the clearance between the tail
boom and prop....SOOOOO , I made a new mount to plans and purchased a
new belt reduction(2.58-1) from ZDE in Indiana and a new Warp Drive
propellar because of the rotation....The prop is set for 6300 RPM static
full power..........Now I have a bad vibration at the same
frequency(surging) that starts at 4500 RPM and I cannot live with .....I
don't dare fly it anymore...My suspicions are the prop. I believe the
problem is the increased pitch because of the lower RPM from the
reduction drive. I suspect the angle of attack on the blades is
excessive and at the higher end it gets into cavitation and blade stall.
I allready sold the Nova gearbox and cannot go back to it.......I have
not had a chance to run it with a much lower blade angle to see if it
still surges at the higher RPM due to other more pressing matters like
making a living....The weather has been less than cooperative up here in
the Socialist Republic of New York ( Western NY ) for some time ,
anyway........Contact me off or on list if you have any experience with
a similar problem......or if you have any
ideas.............................HELP ! I need to get this thing back
in the air for some "therapy"....
Frustrated Ed In Western NY
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Re: Ultrastar - Cayuna vibration |
HELP ! I need to get this thing back
> in the air for some "therapy"....
>
> Frustrated Ed In Western NY
Morning Gang:
Ed: Give Darell a call at Warp Drive. He made be able to
help you or lead you in the right direction for help.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Richard Neilsen" <neilsenr(at)michigan.gov> |
Subject: | MKIII Weight & Balance |
I flew last week with 160lbs. of salt in the seat next to me. The salt was
in bags stacked up the back of the seat. When I tried to rotate for
takeoff it wouldn't until I gained a bunch more air speed and the stick
was all the way back to the stop. After I raised the flaps things returned
to normal and the climb rate was still perty good. My balance is very
close to the forward CG at this weight but I was surprised. I'm very happy
I didn't just put my 180lb. son in the plane and go for it. I will be
adding some weight to the tail and trying this again. I need to play with
the spread sheet I set up for CG testing to find out how much weight is
needed. Maybe just switching to the new tail wheel will add enough weight.
Has anyone else tried the salt bag test is this like a person or is the
salt further aft than a human? Some of my problem is the high thrust line
with the reduction drive VW. Any thoughts?
Rick Neilsen
Redrive VW powered MKIII
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Re: MKIII Weight & Balance |
Hi Rick/Gang:
High thrust line combined with flaps and a lot of power
really puts a load on the elevators.
Don't recommend taking off with flaps on the Mark III unless
I am in mud, tall grass, sand, ect. Flaps degrade climb and
aggrevate the tendancy for the MK III to nose down while
under power, especially full power.
My MK III is trimmed out perfect for weight and balance in a
powerless glide. Add power and add a buncha nose up trim.
It is the nature of the airplane.
I noticed quite a bit of difference on take off with the new
912S when I was swinging the 72" Warp Drive 3 blade prop
compared to the 912 swinging a 70". Takes a lot of elevator
and absorbs a lot of lift until the aircraft breaks ground
and flies.
I have found through the last 18 years that my Ultrastar,
Firestar, and Mark III, have extremely wide cg range. I
guess have loaded these airplanes continuously to the
extreme and not always on the cg. I, personally, have never
had a cg problem with any of them. I am speaking only of my
personal aircraft and not other Kolb aircraft. You all will
have to be the judge about cg on your own aircraft, not me.
I have never found it necessary to add weight to correct
cg. If you try to add weight to counter act torque, you'll
probably end of with more weight that you can fly off with.
Also, you should consider what you are doing to the cg when
you pull the power back.
Tractor airplanes do not have this problem. It is the price
we pay of our unusually good visibility.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Re: MKIII Weight & Balance |
> If you try to add weight to counter act torque, you'll
> probably end of with more weight that you can fly off with.
Gang:
Gotta start proofing before I hit the "send" button. The
above should have read:
If you try to add weight to counter act "high thrust line",
you'll probably end up with more weight than you can fly off
with.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Woody <duesouth(at)iname.com> |
Subject: | Re: hirth engines |
>
>seems like i recall hearing that the owner/boss of the cgs hawk company had
>a hirth failure en route to sun n fun. never heard any more. might be worth
>cking on that list
If you have ever heard of a Rotax quitting it might be wise to check on
that too.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Re: hirth engines |
> If you have ever heard of a Rotax quitting it might be wise to check on
> that too.
Woody/Gang:
You are absolutely right. They all quit, whether the tag
says Lycoming, Continental, Wright Whirlwind, Jacobs, Rolls
Royce, Allison, VW, Rotax, Cuyuna, Hirth, Briggs and
Stratton. Some engines have better reputations than
others. The ones with real good reputations are the ones
that can really get one in trouble. If you have any doubt
about the certified engines giving up the ghost, check out
the FAA preliminary accident summaries. Seems to me the
biggest problem with GA and experiemental aircraft is
landing gear and engines. Here's the url:
http://www.faa.gov/avr/aai/iirform.htm
They are open every day Monday through Friday, except
weekends and holidays. Checking out the previous days
accidents is part of my three cups of coffee and waking up
routine.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | cartejy <cartejy(at)valunet.com> |
Subject: | W32.Elkern removal tools |
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________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Possum <possums(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Re: Sun 'N Fun Plans Changed |
Charlie's fuel depot was empty yesterday, so I had to borrow
2 1/2 gallons from your hanger. Left a couple of dollars.
Tell Charlie I'll have to complain to the management.
-
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | SGreenpg(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: MKIII Weight & Balance |
In a message dated 5/13/02 11:20:44 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
neilsenr(at)michigan.gov writes:
> Has anyone else tried the salt bag test is this like a person or is the
> salt further aft than a human? Some of my problem is the high thrust line
> with the reduction drive VW. Any thoughts?
>
> Rick Neilsen
> Redrive VW powered MKIII
>
>
Rick,
I did the same thing using cattle feed before I took a real person up with
me. I worked my way up to 200 pounds in 50 pound increments. I do not use
flaps on takeoff though, only for landing and if I have a passenger that is
close to 240 I just use half flaps to retain some elevator authority.
Steven
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "dama" <dama(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Database now current |
The builder pilot database is up and running with some new entries including
one from England. If you were putting off sending me any changes, bring em
on. Am I jinxing myself or what?
Sincereley,
Kip Laurie
Firestar II
http://www.springeraviation.net/
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Possum <possums(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Re: Sun 'N Fun Plans Changed |
>
>
>Charlie's fuel depot was empty yesterday, so I had to borrow
>2 1/2 gallons from your hanger. Left a couple of dollars.
>Tell Charlie I'll have to complain to the management.
>
Sorry wrong address
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)bcchapel.org> |
Subject: | Re: MKIII Weight & Balance |
Don't use the flaps.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>I flew last week with 160lbs. of salt in the seat next to me. The salt was
>in bags stacked up the back of the seat. When I tried to rotate for
>takeoff it wouldn't until I gained a bunch more air speed and the stick
>was all the way back to the stop. After I raised the flaps things returned
>to normal and the climb rate was still perty good. My balance is very
>close to the forward CG at this weight but I was surprised. I'm very happy
>I didn't just put my 180lb. son in the plane and go for it. I will be
>adding some weight to the tail and trying this again. I need to play with
>the spread sheet I set up for CG testing to find out how much weight is
>needed. Maybe just switching to the new tail wheel will add enough weight.
>Has anyone else tried the salt bag test is this like a person or is the
>salt further aft than a human? Some of my problem is the high thrust line
>with the reduction drive VW. Any thoughts?
>
>Rick Neilsen
>Redrive VW powered MKIII
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | rrcarl <rrcarl(at)concentric.net> |
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________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Airgriff2(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 16 Msgs - 05/13/02 |
In a message dated 5/14/02 2:51:08 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
kolb-list-digest(at)matronics.com writes:
> MKIII Weight & Balance
>
>
Hi Rick,
Had a similar flight with my MK3. A bit over 600 lbs., I had flown in the
past with 180 lbs of sand ok. This day was warm, 20 + gal. gas and a
passenger, that I didn't realise was 220 lbs. A little over 1100 lbs. Climb
rate (no flaps) 100 fpm +-. Flew the pattern with the stick pulled back
pretty far, throttled back to just below 6000 rpm and was loosing alt. As we
landed, I held 55 _ 60 mph, tried to level off and the stick was all the way
back, and instead of leveling off, it just mushed to the ground and was all
done flying. I don't think my situation was a cg. problem. More of an over
gross problem. I now limit passengers to 180 lbs and only take up 8 or 10
gal. of gas. This seems to work ok.
fly safe
Bob Griffin
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Vincehallam(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: galvanic protection..... |
i dont know muchg about kolbs yet i just want one so i read these notes ..BUT
i do know about hang gliders having been responsible for maintanance, and
construction of clubman hgs. we hung test samples in coastal air at brighton
uk using high grade alk alloys [HT30 tubing .in some 5-6 years there was no
noticeable degradation.BUTwhen stuff was packed away wet inter face
corrosion occurred.ALSO i kept one piece of hg wing tube from a 10 year old
hg which had S>S.rivets and S>S selftap screws that wer very loose in their
holes due to corrosion of the aluminium. there was never a problem with hard
steel selftaps security although of course they themselves would eventually
rust enough to need replacement aqfter a year or three We did not use S,S
rivets .by the way ,weused 2.5 mm galvanised wires with or without hard
plastic coating for structures in preference to stainless whiich can
crystalise or embrittle without much visual indication.whereas the galvanise
gives warning by rusty marks where bending and stretch or flex has damaged
the galv protection.............vince hallam....
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Richard Neilsen" <neilsenr(at)michigan.gov> |
Subject: | Re: MKIII Weight & Balance |
As usual you guys answer questions I hadn't considering asking. Thanks.
I use one notch of flaps on takeoff as I have a bump in the middle of my
strip I like to clear and one notch of flap does get me off the ground
quicker, then I raise the flaps for climb. Actually I would rather find
out I'm trying to take off with the CG too far forward while on the
ground trying to rotate with flaps than 50+ ft in the air without. The
post from the person who took off with a over weight passenger is a good
reminder for everyone. I need to get back to my weight & balance
calculations and also replace the tail wheel.
Rick Neilsen
Redrive VW powered MKIII
>>> richard(at)bcchapel.org 05/13/02 11:24PM >>>
Don't use the flaps.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Re: certificated engines ... |
> could someone explain to me - what is the difference between a
> certificated engine and a non-certificated one? ............. no plane tim
Tim/Gang:
For Rotax purposes, the certified copy of the 912 is run in
at the factory for 5 hours instead of 1 hour for the UL
copy. Also, all parts of the certified 912 have serial
numbers to track these parts, which are recorded and part of
the paperwork package of the certified 912. Other than
that, they are the same. Quality of parts is identical.
Per Eric Tucker, Rotax.
The above is European certification.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "H MITCHELL" <mitchmnd(at)msn.com> |
Subject: | Fly-in at Quincy Florida |
EAA Chapter 445 will host the 29th annual Quincy fly-in on May 17th. There is always
a large number and wide variety of home-builts, antiques and
UL's at this event. There will also be Young Eagles, parachutes, plenty of eats
etc.
Runway 14/32 is just under 3,000' and their is a parallel grass strip on
the NE side. Note: right hand traffic on 14 (UL).
The Quincy airport is located approx 20 miles W of Tallahassee, FL. It is approx
10 miles off of Interstate 10 and just E of the city of Quincy. Come join us
and look through our hangars....
Duane the plane, Tallahassee, FL FireFly/Mk3-912, (850) 878-9047
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Re: Overgross MKIII? |
I'd say you were way nose heavy, and ran out of elevator
to
> correct it. I think you were fortunate not to have any worse problems.
> Anyone else ?? Gogittum Lar.
Lar/Bob G/Gents:
In that situation I would keep power on and maintain a good
margin of airspeed to keep air flowing over the elevator. I
got into a situation similar to that at Lakeland in the old
factory MK III with the 912 installed. Had never flown it
with 912 and dual controls. Passenger was rather large. I
never got below 75 mph, flew around the patch once and
touched down at 75. Not a good feeling.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | crad238 <crad238(at)wirefire.com> |
Subject: | Re: Meeting notice |
Why do you keep sending me this shit.
rrcarl wrote:
>
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> ---
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jack & Louise Hart <jbhart(at)ldd.net> |
Subject: | FireFly & Simonini Victor 1+ Engine Flys |
harthelms(at)firstbankconnect.com
From my flight log.
May 14, 2002 - (Last previous flight was February 17, 2002) - Flight 222
(first flight with Simonini Victor 1+ engine) - 10 minutes - 79:10 tt. Ran
some invalid fuel consumption tests with out the prop set so I could watch
EGT's with the prop set to maximum. Top engine speed was just over 4000
rpm with a fuel rate of 2.2 gal/hr. I checked things over and found the
coolant hoses had relaxed from being exposed to heat. Both connections to
the engine were oozing. Tightened all hose clamps. It was surprising how
much they had relaxed. Then I started to reset the prop and only ran until
I could see what the top speed was. Finally got it to 5200 rpm and 2.5
gal/hr. The steel umbrella bow shutter guides did not work. The metal
temperature expansion rates were too different and they were all popping
loose from the bottom radiator tank. I took them all off. The EGT spiked
once at a little over 5000 rpm, so I raised the needle one slot. This did
not really help, and it indicates that the main jet must be on the small
side. The wind was picking up so I decided to fly before it got worse.
The flight was a little strange, in that all the audio, visual, and engine
instrument cues where different. As I teased the FireFly off into a
gusting cross wind, I did not believe it was ready to fly because sound
frequency from the engine was too low. The propeller rotates in the
opposite direction, and so my feet did the wrong thing on the rudder. But
the cross wind caught my attention and I got it straightened out and
started to climb. It was difficult to push in the throttle because I did
not feel it was ready to fly and I didn't want to blow it over on its nose.
The new windshield is taller and so the air did not hit me in the face
like it did before. The .030 inch thick lexan with a supporting aluminum
tube bow is going to work just fine. No indication of it warping or
jumping a round in flight. Took a couple turns around the pattern at 700
agl and landed on the main runway. No trouble with the cross wind. May go
back up this evening to fly again when the wind is down. I will have to
reset the elevator trim, and I have got to get the aileron trim
reconnected. New seat belt system is much better. With the shutter wide
open the engine coolant did not exceed 140 degrees F. No problems with
coolant temperature while taxiing. Prop to wing clearance indicators
worked well. The tip of the prop is coming to about one and one quarter
inches of the aileron tube. Engine idles right on down to 1000 rpm with
out a miss. It really makes it nice for taxiing. This makes closing the
throttle while landing a little more interesting. With the 447 it would
miss and shake and tell you that it was still running. This engine does
not miss so you can not feel any shaking so you have to look at the tach.
Jack B. Hart FF004
Jackson, MO
Jack & Louise Hart
jbhart(at)ldd.net
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dennis Souder" <flykolb(at)pa.net> |
Subject: | Re: certificated engines ... |
I may not have the most current information, but another difference I havae
heard was that every crankshaft for a certified 912 was run through QC, as
compared to the non-certified cranks which were only randomly checked. This
would mean that you would have a better probability of getting an out of
tolerance crankshaft with the non-certified engine.
Dennis
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Hauck" <hawk36(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: certificated engines ...
>
>
> > could someone explain to me - what is the difference between a
> > certificated engine and a non-certificated one? ............. no plane
tim
>
> Tim/Gang:
>
> For Rotax purposes, the certified copy of the 912 is run in
> at the factory for 5 hours instead of 1 hour for the UL
> copy. Also, all parts of the certified 912 have serial
> numbers to track these parts, which are recorded and part of
> the paperwork package of the certified 912. Other than
> that, they are the same. Quality of parts is identical.
> Per Eric Tucker, Rotax.
>
> The above is European certification.
>
> john h
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dennis Souder" <flykolb(at)pa.net> |
Subject: | Re: hirth engines |
> >seems like i recall hearing that the owner/boss of the cgs hawk company
had
> >a hirth failure en route to sun n fun. never heard any more. might be
worth
> >cking on that list
> If you have ever heard of a Rotax quitting it might be wise to check on
> that too.
>
Taken in the context of Hirth's 1000 TBO claim, one should rightfully expect
the Hirth to be a more dependable engine than the Rotax, so a Hirth failure
should be more noteworthy than a Rotax failure, based upon their respective
claims for longevity.
I at one time was interested particularly in the 65 HP Hirth as it had the
advantage of the simpler air cooling system. The more adventuresome Kolb
builders would try the Hirths. So I listened very carefully to what they
had to say. While there were several Kolbers who praised the Hirths, there
were many more who had a very discouraging time with them. Four or so years
ago heat management was a challenge ... getting them jetted so they ran at a
healthy temperature at various throttle settings. Gearboxes were noted for
failing and there were quite a few seizures. The Hirth reps did not help
things and I heard about as many complaints about the reps as the about the
engines themselves. The most common reason for a person being persuaded to
go with Hirth was the 1000 tbo and this claim also was the most criticized
claim after the engine would quit or present other problems.
Challenger did promote the Hirth for a while and I spoke with Dave and
others at Challenger and they told me their experience with Hirth was a
disaster.
So, based upon such input, Kolb stayed with Rotax. I was a times criticized
for not promoting Hirth at Kolb, but to me all the evidence indicated that
Hirth was not ready from prime time. Things may have changed since then,
but if I was looking seriously at a Hirth I would ask for documentation on
how they arrive at 1000 hrs tbo. I would explain to those who criticized
Kolb for not offering Hirths that Kolb offered the kits without engines, so
if a person wanted a Hirth they could go and get their own - Kolb could have
sold kits only with Rotaxes. Or we could have done like Rans: the kit is
offered with a Rotax, but if you don't want the Rotax the cost of the engine
is deleted. But ... Rans did not delete the retail price, they only
deleted the wholesale price. Which means that if a buyer did not take the
Rotax from Rans, he still paid Rans the profit on that engine anyway just as
if he had purchased the engine from them. Randy was smart, he had his cake
and ate it too. I don't know if this is the way it is still done or not.
The contrast with Rotax is instructive. When Rotax introduced the 912 they
gave only a 600 tbo, then as the fleet of engines gained time, and were
examined by Rotax for wear, etc. Rotax incrementally upped the TBO based
upon the actual data gathered from real engines in the real world. This is
a realistic and conservative approach. Hirth, on the other hand, puts the
engine out and announces a 1000 tbo right from the start. I went to the
airshows and saw all the 600 hr Rotax 912's and knew that there existed a
very large population of these engines from which Rotax was learning. I did
not see more than a handful of the 65 HP Hirths, so where did Hirth get
their 1000 tbo? Engines running on a test stand?
In the past it was easier for a start-up airframe manufacturer to get on
board with Hirth than Rotax. Rotax required more from airframe
manufacturers as far as volume purchase, training, etc. So the trend I
noticed was that new airframe manufacturers would more often than not go
with Hirth and promote them. Then later as they gained size and had more
resources at their disposal they would then switch to Rotax. I only mention
this as it created a group of Hirth proponents that otherwise would have
been using Rotaxes.
Good luck in your search for engines!
Dennis
----- Original Message -----
From: "Woody" <duesouth(at)iname.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: hirth engines
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | rv6builder <rv6builder(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Hello,kolb-list,please try again |
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________________________________________________________________________________
From: | jbhart <jbhart(at)ldd.net> |
Subject: | A very funny website |
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________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Clay Stuart" <tcstuart(at)adelphia.net> |
I borrowed a metal brake to bend the arm rest/console for my Mark IIIXtra.
I am finished bending the metal. Can I return the brake or should I keep it
to bend some Lexan later? I haven't installed any "clear stuff" yet.
Thanks,
Clay Stuart
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Guy Swenson" <guys(at)rrt.net> |
Clay,
Check out the wing center section, the lexan guides need to be shaped and
bent on the brake. You could bend them now, then return the brake. I cant
think of any other need for the brake.
Guy Swenson
MKIII Xtra
----- Original Message -----
From: "Clay Stuart" <tcstuart(at)adelphia.net>
Subject: Kolb-List: metal brake
>
> I borrowed a metal brake to bend the arm rest/console for my Mark IIIXtra.
> I am finished bending the metal. Can I return the brake or should I keep
it
> to bend some Lexan later? I haven't installed any "clear stuff" yet.
>
> Thanks,
> Clay Stuart
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | b young <byoung(at)brigham.net> |
Subject: | Re: mk III wt and bal. |
I flew last week with 160lbs. of salt in the seat next to
me. The salt was
in bags stacked up the back of the seat. When I tried to
rotate for
takeoff it wouldn't until I gained a bunch more air speed
and the stick
was all the way back to the stop
------------------------
in my experience the mk III with 2 people does not have
enough wing incidence to develop enough lift to take off
just above stall.... as you mentioned you need extra speed
to develop the lift necessary..... in a way it is kind of
nice, when you finaly get into the air you are not on the
verge of a stall.. there is a bit of margin built in.. i
find it best ( at least for me) to take off without flaps
and during the takeoff roll i build up speed then let the
tail come off the ground to decrease the incidence and
reduce drag on the wing till i get up to good speed then
slowly start applying back pressure till it flies off. if
you pull hard enough on the stick to plant the tail wheel
back on the ground you are only increasing drag and delaying
the takeoff.
boyd
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Guy Swenson" <guys(at)rrt.net> |
Hello Kolb Gang,
Received my SP Airworthiness Certificate on 5/3/02, gotta get the trailer
done so I can get it to the airport. Finally got my Insurance quote from
Avemco. They were the only company willing to Insure me and because its a
Kolb I can only get Liability 100,000.00, 100,000.00, 1,000,000.00 and No
Occupant coverage. All this for the bargain basement price of $1141.00 /
Year. Two years ago when I started this project I checked on liability
coverage and at that time it was only $390.00.
When I questioned her as to why are Kolbs on the liability only list, her
response was, They have had two many High dollar Kolbs end up in litigation,
the light weight also factors into it. My Mark III Xtra has an empty weight
of 559 lbs. They feel this is to close to an ultralight. Apparently they
figure a light airframe is a weak airframe. Just goes to show you how little
they know about a Kolb.
Just a word to the wise, those of you who already have insurance on your
Kolbs, don't let it lapse or cancel it until you find out the availability
of getting it back.
Guy Swenson
MKIII Xtra Ready to fly
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Gogittum Lar" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
Subject: | Re: Insurance Info |
I just found out today. I had let mine lapse, and today started the renewal
process. It hurts. Insurance Poor Lar. Do not
Archive.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Guy Swenson" <guys(at)rrt.net>
Subject: Kolb-List: Insurance Info
>
> Hello Kolb Gang,
>
> Received my SP Airworthiness Certificate on 5/3/02, gotta get the trailer
> done so I can get it to the airport. Finally got my Insurance quote from
> Avemco. They were the only company willing to Insure me and because its a
> Kolb I can only get Liability 100,000.00, 100,000.00, 1,000,000.00 and No
> Occupant coverage. All this for the bargain basement price of $1141.00 /
> Year. Two years ago when I started this project I checked on liability
> coverage and at that time it was only $390.00.
>
> When I questioned her as to why are Kolbs on the liability only list, her
> response was, They have had two many High dollar Kolbs end up in
litigation,
> the light weight also factors into it. My Mark III Xtra has an empty
weight
> of 559 lbs. They feel this is to close to an ultralight. Apparently they
> figure a light airframe is a weak airframe. Just goes to show you how
little
> they know about a Kolb.
>
> Just a word to the wise, those of you who already have insurance on your
> Kolbs, don't let it lapse or cancel it until you find out the availability
> of getting it back.
> Guy Swenson
> MKIII Xtra Ready to fly
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Airgriff2(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 26 Msgs - 05/14/02 |
In a message dated 5/15/02 2:50:52 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
kolb-list-digest(at)matronics.com writes:
> Overgross MKIII?
>
>
Hi Richard, My mk3 was the first one that orig. Kolb set up with 618. 3.47-1
3 blade Warp drive
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Steve Kroll" <skroll(at)dellepro.com> |
"Kolb-List Digest List"
Subject: | June Fly-In at Texoma |
Hey gang,
The Dallas/Ft Worth Area Lite Flyers is holding their annual Texoma
weekend fly-in at Bowie, Texas this year. The dates for the event are
June 7-9. Last year we had 130 ultralights, 30 PPCs, and a host of GA
types show for the 3 day event. We are expecting more this year. We
have a limited supply of RV hookups but we have tons of room for "rough"
camping. Bowie has a few motels and we will have shuttle service to and
from the airport operating continuously. There will be a number of food
vendors on the site including at least one vendor that is equipped to
supply breakfast, lunch and dinner. Bowie also has a number of
restaurants including a catfish joint "to die for" :)
We have a lot of events planned including sanctioned USUA competition
events for fixed wing ultralights and PPCs which will be held on
Saturday. This year our accommodations are much bigger so free flying
will be able to take place during the competitions. For the ladies the
city of Bowie is hosting a Treasure Hunt. We also have musical
entertainment for Friday and Saturday nights planned and an evening
barbecue on Saturday night. The city of Bowie has rolled out the red
carpet to us so we expect this to be the best TUG (Texoma Ultralight
Gathering) ever.
The coordinates for the airport (Bowie Regional Airport) are 33degrees
37 minutes North/97degrees 47minutes West. Monitor 122.8 on the radio
and set up for a standard LEFT pattern but watch closely for PPCs flying
a tight pattern close in and try to keep 1000 feet separation at all
times. The pattern altitude is 1000 feet for GA, 500 feet for
ultralights, , and 300 feet for PPCs maintaining the 1000 foot lateral
separation with PPCs on the inside and GA on the outside. For those who
intend to fly in the pattern during the event, registration is required
so look for the headquarters and registration area when you arrive. It
will be located on the far right hangar at airport center. There is no
cost to register and registration packets will be issued. Also, there
is a safety briefing at 0700 each morning and flight passes will be
issued then. You MUST attend the briefing and receive the pass in order
to fly during the event.
We had a great time last year so COME ON DOWN and join us. More
information is available at: www.dfwliteflyers.org
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bob Stripes" <stripes(at)voicenet.com> |
Subject: | Re: hirth engines |
Thanks Dennis, I appreciate the input. Makes sense. Bob Preiss
stripes(at)voicenet.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dennis Souder" <flykolb(at)pa.net>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: hirth engines
>
> > >seems like i recall hearing that the owner/boss of the cgs hawk
company
> had
> > >a hirth failure en route to sun n fun. never heard any more. might be
> worth
> > >cking on that list
>
> > If you have ever heard of a Rotax quitting it might be wise to check
on
> > that too.
> >
>
> Taken in the context of Hirth's 1000 TBO claim, one should rightfully
expect
> the Hirth to be a more dependable engine than the Rotax, so a Hirth
failure
> should be more noteworthy than a Rotax failure, based upon their
respective
> claims for longevity.
>
> I at one time was interested particularly in the 65 HP Hirth as it had
the
> advantage of the simpler air cooling system. The more adventuresome Kolb
> builders would try the Hirths. So I listened very carefully to what they
> had to say. While there were several Kolbers who praised the Hirths,
there
> were many more who had a very discouraging time with them. Four or so
years
> ago heat management was a challenge ... getting them jetted so they ran at
a
> healthy temperature at various throttle settings. Gearboxes were noted
for
> failing and there were quite a few seizures. The Hirth reps did not help
> things and I heard about as many complaints about the reps as the about
the
> engines themselves. The most common reason for a person being persuaded
to
> go with Hirth was the 1000 tbo and this claim also was the most criticized
> claim after the engine would quit or present other problems.
>
> Challenger did promote the Hirth for a while and I spoke with Dave and
> others at Challenger and they told me their experience with Hirth was a
> disaster.
>
> So, based upon such input, Kolb stayed with Rotax. I was a times
criticized
> for not promoting Hirth at Kolb, but to me all the evidence indicated that
> Hirth was not ready from prime time. Things may have changed since then,
> but if I was looking seriously at a Hirth I would ask for documentation on
> how they arrive at 1000 hrs tbo. I would explain to those who criticized
> Kolb for not offering Hirths that Kolb offered the kits without engines,
so
> if a person wanted a Hirth they could go and get their own - Kolb could
have
> sold kits only with Rotaxes. Or we could have done like Rans: the kit is
> offered with a Rotax, but if you don't want the Rotax the cost of the
engine
> is deleted. But ... Rans did not delete the retail price, they only
> deleted the wholesale price. Which means that if a buyer did not take the
> Rotax from Rans, he still paid Rans the profit on that engine anyway just
as
> if he had purchased the engine from them. Randy was smart, he had his
cake
> and ate it too. I don't know if this is the way it is still done or not.
>
> The contrast with Rotax is instructive. When Rotax introduced the 912
they
> gave only a 600 tbo, then as the fleet of engines gained time, and were
> examined by Rotax for wear, etc. Rotax incrementally upped the TBO based
> upon the actual data gathered from real engines in the real world. This
is
> a realistic and conservative approach. Hirth, on the other hand, puts the
> engine out and announces a 1000 tbo right from the start. I went to the
> airshows and saw all the 600 hr Rotax 912's and knew that there existed a
> very large population of these engines from which Rotax was learning. I
did
> not see more than a handful of the 65 HP Hirths, so where did Hirth get
> their 1000 tbo? Engines running on a test stand?
>
> In the past it was easier for a start-up airframe manufacturer to get on
> board with Hirth than Rotax. Rotax required more from airframe
> manufacturers as far as volume purchase, training, etc. So the trend I
> noticed was that new airframe manufacturers would more often than not go
> with Hirth and promote them. Then later as they gained size and had more
> resources at their disposal they would then switch to Rotax. I only
mention
> this as it created a group of Hirth proponents that otherwise would have
> been using Rotaxes.
>
> Good luck in your search for engines!
>
> Dennis
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Woody" <duesouth(at)iname.com>
> To:
> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: hirth engines
>
>
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Ron or Mary" <ronormar(at)apex.net> |
Subject: | Indiana Fatal Crash |
I have been trying to find details on this crash with the NTSB and FAA. The
responce that I got back is that this crash is a hoax. That is hard to
believe with all the input about it on this list. Was this aircraft
registered with an N number?
Ron Payne
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "N.B. DelMore" <mk3(at)inr.net> |
Subject: | Construction/Assembly Sequence |
Has anyone written or have a good construction and assembly guide for
the MK III Classic, ala Heathkit style?
One of the things I'm wrestling with is how and when to put all the bits
together so as not to have to tear it all apart again; it's on the gear
with wings and control surfaces all cleco'd together.
In particular I'm considering tearing it all apart now to get the cage
and tail boom powder coated; and if you have any thoughts about that I'd
appreciate hearing them.
Thanks
Noel
MK III - Nashua, NH
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "N.B. DelMore" <mk3(at)inr.net> |
Ok .. If this where my car or almost anything else I'd know what to do
but, not wanting to screw things up and chance damaging the wheels I'll
ask the experts...
I have Matco wheels with the stock MK III tires and I'm trying to
install a set of tundra-type tires (with tubes).. I removed the wheels,
took out the bolts that hold the two halves of the Matco wheels and
bearings together but I'll be danged if I can break the bead to get the
tires off the rims.
Suggestions please?
Also, does anyone have a set of installation instructions for the Matco
wheels and hydralic brakes, which I don't believe I ever got from Kolb,
all I have is a little 8x11 blueprint from Matco which doesn't have any
information about installation or torque values.
Thanks
Noel
MK III - Nashua, NH
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jack & Louise Hart <jbhart(at)ldd.net> |
Subject: | Re: Indiana Fatal Crash |
Ron,
See:
http://www.thestarpress.com/tsp/news/obits/0426obits.php#c
Jack B. Hart FF004
Jackson, MO
>
>I have been trying to find details on this crash with the NTSB and FAA. The
>responce that I got back is that this crash is a hoax. That is hard to
>believe with all the input about it on this list. Was this aircraft
>registered with an N number?
>
>Ron Payne
>
Jack & Louise Hart
jbhart(at)ldd.net
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Gogittum Lar" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
Subject: | Re: Changing Tires |
For breaking the bead, I took a piece of 3/4" plywood, and cut a round hole
in it, just a bit bigger than the rim diameter. Put a 1 x 2 spacer on each
side, right to the edge of the holes, and a piece of 2 x 4 across those.
Used it as a base for my jack, to lift my car with. The bead came loose
effortlessly. Flip the wheel over, and do the other side, if necessary.
Use a lubricant when you put it back together, and it'll hold air better,
and come apart easier next time. Also, clean the center very thoroughly,
and use silicone grease on the O-ring, and it will help prevent leaks.
Now............let the war begin...........seems like this is like the
"other" opinion thing................everyone has one. Ingenious
Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "N.B. DelMore" <mk3(at)inr.net>
Subject: Kolb-List: Changing Tires
>
> Ok .. If this where my car or almost anything else I'd know what to do
> but, not wanting to screw things up and chance damaging the wheels I'll
> ask the experts...
>
> I have Matco wheels with the stock MK III tires and I'm trying to
> install a set of tundra-type tires (with tubes).. I removed the wheels,
> took out the bolts that hold the two halves of the Matco wheels and
> bearings together but I'll be danged if I can break the bead to get the
> tires off the rims.
>
> Suggestions please?
>
> Also, does anyone have a set of installation instructions for the Matco
> wheels and hydralic brakes, which I don't believe I ever got from Kolb,
> all I have is a little 8x11 blueprint from Matco which doesn't have any
> information about installation or torque values.
>
> Thanks
> Noel
> MK III - Nashua, NH
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | SGreenpg(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: The space between |
In a message dated 5/7/02 12:01:58 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
Erich_Weaver(at)URSCorp.com writes:
> Listers:
>
> On my Mrk III there is a significant gap between the top of my windshield
> and the leading edge of my wing gap seal. Seems like I should be able to
> pretty this area up some and perhaps make it a smidge more aerodynamic.
> One way might be to replace the windshield and cut the new one so that the
> top fits up against the gap seal. What do others have in this area, if
> anything?
>
> Regards,
>
> Erich Weaver
> erich_weaver(at)urscorp.com
> 130 Robin Hill Road, Suite 100
> Santa Barbara, California 93117
>
>
Erich,
You might check with TNK. Danny told me about a year ago that they were
making a fiberglass fairing to fit this area and seal it off.
Steven
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)bcchapel.org> |
Subject: | Re: Changing Tires |
Good method. Or you could just use a big slab of 1" ply wood with the hole
a bit bigger than the wheel, let the air out of the tire, lay the plywood
over the wheel so that one side of the plywood is on the ground, and drive
the truck across that edge of the plywood.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>
>For breaking the bead, I took a piece of 3/4" plywood, and cut a round hole
>in it, just a bit bigger than the rim diameter. Put a 1 x 2 spacer on each
>side, right to the edge of the holes, and a piece of 2 x 4 across those.
>Used it as a base for my jack, to lift my car with. The bead came loose
>effortlessly. Flip the wheel over, and do the other side, if necessary.
>Use a lubricant when you put it back together, and it'll hold air better,
>and come apart easier next time. Also, clean the center very thoroughly,
>and use silicone grease on the O-ring, and it will help prevent leaks.
>Now............let the war begin...........seems like this is like the
>"other" opinion thing................everyone has one. Ingenious
>Lar.
>
>Larry Bourne
>Palm Springs, Ca.
>Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
>http://www.gogittum.com
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "N.B. DelMore" <mk3(at)inr.net>
>To:
>Subject: Kolb-List: Changing Tires
---
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Gogittum Lar" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
Subject: | Re: Changing Tires |
You bet.............simpler is better. Why didn't I think of that ??
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Pike" <richard(at)bcchapel.org>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Changing Tires
>
> Good method. Or you could just use a big slab of 1" ply wood with the hole
> a bit bigger than the wheel, let the air out of the tire, lay the plywood
> over the wheel so that one side of the plywood is on the ground, and drive
> the truck across that edge of the plywood.
> Richard Pike
> MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>
> >
> >
> >For breaking the bead, I took a piece of 3/4" plywood, and cut a round
hole
> >in it, just a bit bigger than the rim diameter. Put a 1 x 2 spacer on
each
> >side, right to the edge of the holes, and a piece of 2 x 4 across those.
> >Used it as a base for my jack, to lift my car with. The bead came loose
> >effortlessly. Flip the wheel over, and do the other side, if necessary.
> >Use a lubricant when you put it back together, and it'll hold air better,
> >and come apart easier next time. Also, clean the center very thoroughly,
> >and use silicone grease on the O-ring, and it will help prevent leaks.
> >Now............let the war begin...........seems like this is like the
> >"other" opinion thing................everyone has one. Ingenious
> >Lar.
> >
> >Larry Bourne
> >Palm Springs, Ca.
> >Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
> >http://www.gogittum.com
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: "N.B. DelMore" <mk3(at)inr.net>
> >To:
> >Subject: Kolb-List: Changing Tires
>
>
> ---
> Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "N.B. DelMore" <mk3(at)inr.net> |
Or the even older method .. Which I finally used despite trying two
triangles made of angle iron (one on each side) and big c-clamps which
also didn't work ... I'll try the plywood trick on the remaining wheel.
I cut the danged thing off with a razor knife and (carefully) severed
the steel wires in the rim area with a dremel tool and grinding disc.
After getting it off, it was apparent that at least this one tire might
have been a little too small for the rim as it never did fully seat
against the wheel rim. Their was a gap of at least 3/8" all the way
around. It wasn't apparent when the tire was inflated.
Does anyone have any suggestions for a suitable lubricant to use when
mounting the new tires, I read in the archives that soapy water was not
recommended. How about some silicon-base lube?
Noel
MK III - Nashua, NH
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> Gogittum Lar
> Sent: Wednesday, May 15, 2002 11:52 PM
> To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Changing Tires
>
>
>
> You bet.............simpler is better. Why didn't I think of that ??
>
> Larry Bourne
> Palm Springs, Ca.
> Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
> http://www.gogittum.com
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Richard Pike" <richard(at)bcchapel.org>
> To:
> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Changing Tires
>
>
> >
> > Good method. Or you could just use a big slab of 1" ply
> wood with the hole
> > a bit bigger than the wheel, let the air out of the tire,
> lay the plywood
> > over the wheel so that one side of the plywood is on the
> ground, and drive
> > the truck across that edge of the plywood.
> > Richard Pike
> > MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
> >
> >
> > >
>
> > >
> > >For breaking the bead, I took a piece of 3/4" plywood, and
> cut a round
> hole
> > >in it, just a bit bigger than the rim diameter. Put a 1 x
> 2 spacer on
> each
> > >side, right to the edge of the holes, and a piece of 2 x 4
> across those.
> > >Used it as a base for my jack, to lift my car with. The
> bead came loose
> > >effortlessly. Flip the wheel over, and do the other side,
> if necessary.
> > >Use a lubricant when you put it back together, and it'll
> hold air better,
> > >and come apart easier next time. Also, clean the center
> very thoroughly,
> > >and use silicone grease on the O-ring, and it will help
> prevent leaks.
> > >Now............let the war begin...........seems like this
> is like the
> > >"other" opinion thing................everyone has one.
> Ingenious
> > >Lar.
> > >
> > >Larry Bourne
> > >Palm Springs, Ca.
> > >Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
> > >http://www.gogittum.com
> > >----- Original Message -----
> > >From: "N.B. DelMore" <mk3(at)inr.net>
> > >To:
> > >Subject: Kolb-List: Changing Tires
> >
> >
> > ---
> > Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
> >
> >
>
>
> ===========
> ===========
> ===========
> ===========
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Gogittum Lar" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
Subject: | Re: Changing Tires |
Man, you really worked at that, didn't you ?? I'll prob'ly start another
firestorm over this, but I used food grade clear silicone grease (because
that's what I had) and have had no problems with leaks. Can't tell ya about
bustin' the bead, cause haven't tried that yet, but when I aired them up,
the beads snapped solidly home. I used them tubeless, and had to use the
old trick of tying a rope around the circumference, and tightening it, to
get the beads out to the rims, so that they'd hold air at 1st.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, Ca.
Kolb Mk III - " Vamoose"
http://www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "N.B. DelMore" <mk3(at)inr.net>
Subject: RE: Kolb-List: Changing Tires
>
> Or the even older method .. Which I finally used despite trying two
> triangles made of angle iron (one on each side) and big c-clamps which
> also didn't work ... I'll try the plywood trick on the remaining wheel.
>
> I cut the danged thing off with a razor knife and (carefully) severed
> the steel wires in the rim area with a dremel tool and grinding disc.
>
> After getting it off, it was apparent that at least this one tire might
> have been a little too small for the rim as it never did fully seat
> against the wheel rim. Their was a gap of at least 3/8" all the way
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dave Stroberg" <dgstro(at)albemarlenet.com> |
Subject: | Re: Changing Tires |
Most any small lawn tractor dealer will have a "small tire" changer used for
lawn tractor wheels. You can get your own from Northern Tool, may not use
it much but when you need it it sure comes in handy. About 30 bucks. When
you put the new tires on lubricate the bead with lanolin hand cleaner such
as GoJo or Goop. Works good and makes clean up easy.
Good luck,
Dave, FirestarII Amphibian.
----- Original Message -----
From: N.B. DelMore <mk3(at)inr.net>
Subject: Kolb-List: Changing Tires
>
> Ok .. If this where my car or almost anything else I'd know what to do
> but, not wanting to screw things up and chance damaging the wheels I'll
> ask the experts...
>
> I have Matco wheels with the stock MK III tires and I'm trying to
> install a set of tundra-type tires (with tubes).. I removed the wheels,
> took out the bolts that hold the two halves of the Matco wheels and
> bearings together but I'll be danged if I can break the bead to get the
> tires off the rims.
>
> Suggestions please?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Re: Changing Tires |
> Does anyone have any suggestions for a suitable lubricant to use when
> mounting the new tires, I read in the archives that soapy water was not
> recommended. How about some silicon-base lube?
>
> Noel
Noel/Gang:
Water.
Ask any Vietcong what to use to lubricate tire rubber.
He'll tell you water. Try cutting a rubber tire with a dry
knife. Then try it with wet knife and rubber. Amazing.
I would be concerned using a lube that is going to be there
for the duration. Might have problems with tire bead
slipping on the rim.
After many years I bought aircraft tires last year. Left
them on the rims for a year and had no problem breaking the
beads and removing with heels and hand. I have found there
are some good reasons for using aircraft tires rather than
"slow speed off road" tires:
1. Inexpensive Air Tracs are trued and balanced, plus rated
for 120 mph prior to leaving the factory. They don't try to
shake the gear legs off before you can hit the brakes and
bring them to a stop on takeoff.
2. On paved airstrips they track true, don't wander and
bounce, like the off road tires, even with 6 psi and gw of
nearly 1200 lbs. The off road tires have a mind of their
own, especially at low pressure. Never knew when and where
they were going once they touched down on pavement.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jimmy <jhankin(at)planters.net> |
Subject: | Ultralight crash 5/14/2002 |
FAA reported a crash of an ultralight in McKinney, Texas. Date was
05/14/2002.
Pilot took off from his field by house, made a left turn and shortly
after the right wing separated. Plane crashed and was destroyed. Pilot
was killed.
Information was from FAA crash repost, listed today.
No other information listed.
Jimmy Hankinson
912-863-7384
Rocky Ford, Ga. 30455
jhankin(at)planters.net
Kolb Firefly/447/210hrs
Local field, Pegasus/2000/Grass
Airport JYL/Sylvania, Ga.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jack & Louise Hart <jbhart(at)ldd.net> |
Subject: | Tire Air Pressure & Camber |
John,
I am using the wheel barrow tires on four inch wheels. I had all kinds of
problems with squirrellyness and wheel bearings, but when I got the tire
pressure up and the wheel camber adjusted, all those problems went away. I
have 225+ flights on the original tires with almost all take off and
landings on hard surfaces and long taxis to and from the runway. Most of
these flights originate and terminate in cross winds.
Low tire pressure in a wheel barrow tire while taxiing, taking off or
landing in a cross wind greatly increases the amount of rudder required to
keep the FireFly straight. This is because the wind transfers more load to
the down wind wheel and dramatically increases the rolling resistance.
This means one must input much more rudder to keep it straight. The slower
you are moving the less effective the rudder becomes and so one has to
input even more rudder. Also when landing in a cross wind with the up wind
wing down while aligned with the runway it is important to not have low
tire pressure. The rolling resistance on the up wind wheel will be high
and as it touches the runway it will turn you into the wind. With higher
tire pressure this will not be the case.
Jack B. Hart FF004
Jackson, MO
>2. On paved airstrips they track true, don't wander and
>bounce, like the off road tires, even with 6 psi and gw of
>nearly 1200 lbs. The off road tires have a mind of their
>own, especially at low pressure. Never knew when and where
>they were going once they touched down on pavement.
>
>john h
>
Jack & Louise Hart
jbhart(at)ldd.net
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "N.B. DelMore" <mk3(at)inr.net> |
John (et al),
Concerning the tires you refer to, what size are you using?
The tundra tires I have are 'Dico' brand and require a tube. I really
don't want to have to deal with poor qualtity materials after the fact,
I'd rather dump what I have and get a quality tire now.
Thanks
Noel
MK III - Nashua, NH
> 1. Inexpensive Air Tracs are trued and balanced, plus rated
> for 120 mph prior to leaving the factory. They don't try to
> shake the gear legs off before you can hit the brakes and
> bring them to a stop on takeoff.
>
> 2. On paved airstrips they track true, don't wander and
> bounce, like the off road tires, even with 6 psi and gw of
> nearly 1200 lbs. The off road tires have a mind of their
> own, especially at low pressure. Never knew when and where
> they were going once they touched down on pavement.
>
> john h
>
>
> ===========
> ===========
> ===========
> ===========
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Re: Changing Tires |
> Concerning the tires you refer to, what size are you using?
> Noel
Noel/Gang:
Ran 6.00 X 6's last year and am running 8.00 X 6's this
year.
Desser Tires sells the 6.00 X 6 for aprx $35.00 and 8.00 X 6
for $75.00 each. I forgot to mention I also use tubes and
eliminate slow leaks that are inherent with split rims and
tubeless type tires. Any old tube will do if it come close
to the size tire you are using. Make sure you get the
correct bend in the valve stem.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Re: Changing Tires |
http://www.desser.com/
This is the url for Desser Tires in Memphis, TN. Order
today and your tires are on the way. Minimum charge for
shipping.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Kirby Dennis Contr ASC/TM <Dennis.Kirby(at)kirtland.af.mil> |
Subject: | Re: Construction/Assembly Sequence |
"N.B. DelMore" wrote:
< Has anyone written or have a good construction and assembly guide for the
MK III Classic, ala Heathkit style?
One of the things I'm wrestling with is how and when to put all the bits
together so as not to have to tear it all apart again; it's on the gear with
wings and control surfaces all cleco'd together. >
Noel, and Kolbers in the early states of build -
If you have the envious luxury of building your Kolb in a real hangar where
space is not a problem, then I suppose you could build your airplane in such
a sequence that would eliminate the need to disassemble the airplane at
various stages along the way. Just keep building till it's done.
My situation was different - I had only a one-car garage to build my Mark-3
in. Could only have one major assembly set up at a time. (i.e., one wing,
or the pod, or a control surface on a worktable) I built my wings on tall
sawhorses while the cage sat on the floor underneath. To make this work, I
held off on permanently attaching the boom tube to the cage until the very
end. After that, the plane would no longer fit in the garage, and would
have to live outside on its trailer. (covered, of course) Here's the
order of construction that worked ideally for me:
- Build each piece (wings, stabs, fin, control surfaces, etc.)
- Before covering, assemble the whole thing with clecos, including control
April 20, 2002 - May 16, 2002
Kolb-Archive.digest.vol-do