RV-Archive.digest.vol-bx
September 18, 1996 - September 30, 1996
3233 NE 95th St
Seattle WA, 98115 USA
RV-6 N16JA
First flight August 1990
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fred Hiatt <hiatt001(at)gold.tc.umn.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: Van's quote? |
Royce Craven wrote:
>
> >...........
> >Make it so .;-)
> >
> >.............
>
> This quote from Van's... you don't suppose Capt. Picard (Star Trek) built a
> RV in his youth do you? :^)
>
> Royce
I thought the expression "Make it so" was originated on ships/subs at sea
when the chief of the boat would inform the Captain that it was now 1200
hrs. Only when the Captain said "Make it so" did it indeed become 1200
hrs. Nothing to do with RV's but interesting non the less.
Fred
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | OrndorffG(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: rod end bearing tool |
After talking with some RV builder having trouble screwing they rod end
bearings into their elevator and rudder spars I now have available a rod end
bearing tool made just for this purpose. It is double ended so to fit both
sizes of rod ends used in RV's. Price $9.00 plus shipping, for more info call
me at (817)439-3280.
..........George Orndorff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Leo Davies <leo(at)icn.su.OZ.AU> |
| Subject: | electrical bits and pieces |
Bob N or anyone else,
As I embark on the electrical system I can see I'll be buying a whole lot of
bits and pieces. Does anyone know if B&C products caters for all the little
bitty bits or just major items like alternators and voltage regulators. Does
anyone recommend them (or anyone else) as a one stop supplier. If so do you
have an address (preferably with EMail and / or fax. I am trying to avoid
ACS as their habit of sending the order in dribs and drabs is VERY expensive
when the freight is to Australia.
Cheers,
Leo Davies
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ming Ho <mho(at)post.cis.smu.edu> |
| Subject: | Credit Card Fraud |
In response to Chris and Eric's comments, I thought that I would point out
that it is not all that difficult for someone to access Lexis and Nexis
databases and that I certain do not suggest anyone to give out any personal
info other than one's name to remove from the P-Trax file. I have personally
experienced and amazed at what some of the Lexis files contained, by
conducting a search without SS#... (I was once a law student and had
practiced a number of years before resigning from the legal practice.), so
I hate to see some of the fellow flyer be involved in credit card fraud
cases.
In any case, use your own judgment in preventing such personal financial
info from leaking to those unethical hands.
This will be my last post on the topic. Sorry again for straying from
aviation.
Kind regards,
Ming
N90SL - Glasair IIs (thinking about building a RV6/8 mode)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gil(at)rassp.hac.com (Gil Alexander) |
| Subject: | Re: 150 hp to 160 hp upgrade |
>There are two things to consider when modifying the **-320 series engines. I
>paid $7,840.00 to learn this. My engine was tagged IO320B1A, and I was
>assured it was. I put 430 hrs on it, on top of 568 sfreman. It started to
>foul plugs badly on 1 and 3 cyl.s, so I pulled them to have them checked out.
> By the time the engine was back on the plane, it would suffice to say the
>"case" was the only thing that was good. IMHO, put out the cash for a new
>engine; the chances are real good you will end up like me and a lot of others
>with an equal amount of money in a "bargain" engine. I bought my engine 6
>years ago for $5300.00, spent $7840.00 for a MOH this year, and new engines
>from Van were $14,000.00 at the time.
Jim,
This isn't really too bad. Six years ago an O-320 core was about
$3000, so you paid a premium of $2300. Since the engine lasted 430 hrs
with no major maintenance (I assume), this works out at $5.35/hr.
If a $8000 major lasts to TBO, it would be $4/hr., but the chances
of that happening without a top overhaul, or some major type of valve work
being done (more $$$) is pretty slim -- just look at all the service
bulletins from Lycoming dealing with top end problems.
My Grumman O-320-E2G engine log books show two cylinders pulled at
seperate times in the 600 to 800 hrs range, and then a Top Overhaul at 1300
hrs. It was removed from the aircraft at 12 yrs./1800 hrs. I believe this
is fairly typical.
>
>1) The cylinders for the 160 are tapered. I highly recommend using these
>cyl.'s when doing a 160 hp. engine. Even in new, tight conditions, I am
>getting more power than I ever did with the straight cyl.s that were in my
>engine (which were supposed to be tapered).
Actually, 150 HP cylinders are also meant to be tapered.
This is a really good argument for extra $$ and buying NEW cylinder
assemblies from Lycoming or Superior Air Parts. It's also the easiest way
to convert, just buy 160 HP cylinders - same price as 150 HP ones.
I'm going to save my pennies (about 450000 of them ...:^) and go
this route.
>
>2) If you are doing this to an -E series engine,such as an 0320E2D, bear in
>mind that the front main bearings are the same as the 0-290 engine and are
>not as strong as the factory 160 hp. engines. The people that did my
>overhaul, Premier Aircraft Engines in Troutdale, OR ( who are engine gods in
>my view), and also an author that I forget, do not recommend using 160 hp
>pistons on these engines because of the higher pressures. And if you are
>going with a CS prop, there is even more reason.
This item bothered me more, and I think I was the person who
originally raised it on the RV-list.
So, yesterday I checked with Fletchair in Houston, who sold me my
engine, and also own the STC to convert Grummans from 150HP to 160HP. They
confirmed that they leave the bottom end of the -E2G engine absolutely
untouched, and presently have several engines on their training fleet that
have run to TBO with no front bearing problems. This is with a metal fixed
pitch prop (exactly what I am going to use). The extra weight of a
constant speed prop might act differently .....
Since the shop that originally raised this item (a $500+ case
machining modification) also "tunes" O-320s to be in the 175HP - 180HP
range, I believe this extra power may cause the concern. In actuality,
with the 2600 rpm limit of the Sensenich metal prop, I will only run about
156 actual HP.
I personally have decided not to do this bearing modification, but
would be interested in any _hard_ data that says otherwise for a fixed
pitch, non-souped-up O-320-E model engine.
... hope this helps others ..... Gil (use it) Alexander
RV6A, #20701
gil(at)rassp.hac.com
>
>I'm not on the list, so if you have any Q., email to me.
>Jim Anglin, RV6 N14JA, First flight 4/91
>rv14ja(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Harold Sutphin <hsutphin(at)magicnet.net> |
I saw the following note on my "other" mail list. (Grumman gang). I
don't have any other details on the cause.
Harold
RV6A
Fowarded message:
---------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: 18 Sep 1996 13:50:01 U
From: "Henry Rosche" <henry.rosche(at)sdrc.com>
To: grumman-gang(at)xmission.com
Good afternoon Gang:
A sad bit of news for you today. For those of you who knew Dale
Dimmich (Tiger N49GT) he lost his life yesterday in his RV-6 in Muncie,
Indiana. Our sympathies go out to his family. You may remember Dale at
Strattford (AYA '96) with the "Flying Grape" Tiger, Purple and Green
paint.
When I find out more about services I will post those.
Roscoe
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | OrndorffG(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: electrical bits and pieces |
Leo
I do not know if they do ,if not I can help, Maybe even work with Bill at B&C
to get you one package I'm sure Bill would go along with that , Have know him
for years and done business with him. Let me know and keep up the good
work...George Orndorff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | walsh(at)cpeedy.ENET.dec.com |
| Subject: | close edge rivets.. |
This week's little project for me is to come up with a good method for
squeezing rivets in tight places ( rudder, elevator etc. ). I've tried
most of the methods in the archive ( and then some ) except the vise grip
squeezer mod.
Can you really squeeze a rivet with a vice grip? After exprimenting, I think
you would have to be Arnold Schwarzeneger to pull this off.
Also, if this fails, does the Tatco no hole yoke work in these areas? I
heard that it doesn't. It's $125 and so a tad expensive if it goes in the
tool box never to be used.
thanks
John Walsh(at)ranger.enet.dec.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Phil Arter <arter(at)ncar.ucar.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: close edge rivets.. |
>This week's little project for me is to come up with a good method for
>squeezing rivets in tight places ( rudder, elevator etc. ). I've tried
>most of the methods in the archive ( and then some ) except the vise grip
>squeezer mod.
>
>Can you really squeeze a rivet with a vice grip? After exprimenting, I think
>you would have to be Arnold Schwarzeneger to pull this off.
>
>Also, if this fails, does the Tatco no hole yoke work in these areas? I
>heard that it doesn't. It's $125 and so a tad expensive if it goes in the
>tool box never to be used.
>
>thanks
>
>John Walsh(at)ranger.enet.dec.com
>
-------------------------------------------
John, hi
I found the best way by far to buck the last few rivets at the end of the
ribs on the control surfaces was by back-riveting using the #00620 bucking
bar from Avery (ground down a little), and striking the bucking bar with a
hammer.
Phil Arter
arte(at)ncar.ucar.edu
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6junkie(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: electrical bits and pieces |
<< As I embark on the electrical system I can see I'll be buying a whole lot
of
bits and pieces. Does anyone know if B&C products caters for all the little
bitty bits or just major items like alternators and voltage regulators. Does
anyone recommend them (or anyone else) as a one stop supplier. If so do you
have an address (preferably with EMail and / or fax. I am trying to avoid
ACS as their habit of sending the order in dribs and drabs is VERY expensive
when the freight is to Australia. >>
Van has a very good electrical package that includes most of what you need in
the way of wire and connectors. I got my breakers and other large items from
B&C. The only thing that I went out on my own to buy were additional
connectors but I got those at the local autoparts supply.
Gary Corde
RV-6 N211GC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)navix.net> |
| Subject: | Re: close edge rivets.. |
>This week's little project for me is to come up with a good method for
>squeezing rivets in tight places ( rudder, elevator etc. ). I've tried
>most of the methods in the archive ( and then some ) except the vise grip
>squeezer mod.
>Can you really squeeze a rivet with a vice grip? After exprimenting, I think
>you would have to be Arnold Schwarzeneger to pull this off.
>Also, if this fails, does the Tatco no hole yoke work in these areas? I
>heard that it doesn't. It's $125 and so a tad expensive if it goes in the
>tool box never to be used.
>thanks John Walsh(at)ranger.enet.dec.com
John, I tried the vice grip idea and it didn't work for me. I bought one
of the "slender snout" yokes from Avery for my pneumatic squeezer and this
worked fine.
Bob Skinner RV-6 BSkinner(at)krvn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris Ruble <cruble(at)cisco.com> |
| Subject: | Re: close edge rivets.. |
The Tatco no-hole worked fine for me. It comes in handy in a lot of places.
You could always use a pop-rivet. You'll have to resign to the fact that
they are necessary in some places. Your RV will still be a real airplane
if you use them. It seems everybody (myself included) has a phobia about
pop-rivets when they first start building. You'll get over it.
Chris
cruble(at)cisco.com
>
> This week's little project for me is to come up with a good method for
> squeezing rivets in tight places ( rudder, elevator etc. ). I've tried
> most of the methods in the archive ( and then some ) except the vise grip
> squeezer mod.
>
> Can you really squeeze a rivet with a vice grip? After exprimenting, I think
> you would have to be Arnold Schwarzeneger to pull this off.
>
> Also, if this fails, does the Tatco no hole yoke work in these areas? I
> heard that it doesn't. It's $125 and so a tad expensive if it goes in the
> tool box never to be used.
>
> thanks
>
> John Walsh(at)ranger.enet.dec.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil (Mike Wills) |
| Subject: | Re: close edge rivets.. |
John,
I have just completed the empennage and had the same experience. I found
the Tatco yoke you are talking about to be the best choice for me. I still
ended up using one pop rivet at the trailing edge of each control surface,
top and bottom.
I would recommend staggering the holes top and bottom. Otherwise you will
probably have an interference problem between the nose of the squeezer yoke
and the shop head of the rivet that is inserted from the opposite side.
Mike Wills
RV-4 ser#4083 (working on rear wing spars)
willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil
************************************************************************
>This week's little project for me is to come up with a good method for
>squeezing rivets in tight places ( rudder, elevator etc. ). I've tried
>most of the methods in the archive ( and then some ) except the vise grip
>squeezer mod.
>
>Can you really squeeze a rivet with a vice grip? After exprimenting, I think
>you would have to be Arnold Schwarzeneger to pull this off.
>
>Also, if this fails, does the Tatco no hole yoke work in these areas? I
>heard that it doesn't. It's $125 and so a tad expensive if it goes in the
>tool box never to be used.
>
>thanks
>
>John Walsh(at)ranger.enet.dec.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
| Subject: | Re: close edge rivets.. |
Riveting in tight places:
I am not aware of a "vice grip" method for squeezing rivets, only for
dimpling. But there may be one....
At any rate, one of the best methods I know of is the "thin bucking bar
and hammer" method. Lay the piece to be riveted, flush surface down, on
a backrivet plate, lay the end of a thin (down to 1/4") bucking bar on
the rivet head, and whack the bucking bar with a hammer just outboard of
the skin. This was explained better somewhere in a post a long time ago
I think.
Cal Brabandt came up with a modified version of this -- two thin bucking
bars and a squeezer. Use duct tape to tape one end of both bucking bars
together in such a way that they form a "hinge point". Then slip the
other ends over the head and tail of the rivet, and squeeze the bars
together with a hand or pneumatic squeezer with the dies removed.
Cal used a couple of small bucking bars he got from Boeing Surplus. I
went to an iron works place and got two 1/4" x 1" x 6" pieces of mild
steel and polished the squeezing surfaces with a scotch-brite wheel. I
also had one of the tip ends cut at an 45 degree angle to make it fit
into even tighter places. I suppose you could take it a step further
and rivet a hinge to the butt ends.
The thin nose squeezer yoke also works quite well. It makes problems
like these almost no-brainers. But since there are relatively few
places where it is needed, you'll have to decide for yourself whether
it's worth the $$ to save some hassle.
Randall Henderson, RV-6
randall(at)edt.com
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mitch Faatz <mfaatz(at)sagenttech.com> |
| Subject: | Any RV-6/6A's near Lake McCall, Idaho? |
I'll be at Lake McCall this weekend and was wondering if anyone with an
RV-6 or 6A project or (better yet) flying plane is near the area. Yet
another chance to put a RV-list name with a face!
--------------------- cut here
--------------------------------------------------------------
Mitch Faatz mfaatz(at)sagenttech.com San Jose, CA
RV-6AQME N727MF (reserved)
HS, VS done, just about done with rudder
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: close edge rivets.. |
John--I used an Avery no hole yoke successfully on the elevators and rudder
to squeeze the tip rivets. Don't know if the Tatco is the same size. I've
not tried Vice Grips.
Jon
bcg007(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Lewis <lewis2(at)mailcenter.cmet.af.mil> |
| Subject: | Re: Upside down flap hinges(comment) |
Dan Boudro wrote:
> Tim,
> I'd drill them out. HINT! Leave some way to move the flap laterally till
> after the wings are mounted on the fuselage and you can position them.
> You could even drill the hinge out then and reposition it so the flap is
> in the correct position.
>
> Dan Boudro
Dan, what's the reason for your suggestion to keep lateral movement
potential in the flaps? One of the guys at Van's suggested I move the
flaps outboard 1/16" from what the plans show to avoid possible
interference with the fuselage when the wings are attached (he said
this has happened on other RV-6s). Is that what you're referring to?
Any insight from the list on this?
Thanks,
Tim
-------------------------------
Capt Tim Lewis
Kelly AFB, TX 210-442-4237
lewis2(at)mailcenter.cmet.af.mil
or capntim(at)aol.com
COML ASEL IA
RV-6AQ #60023
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <72770.552(at)CompuServe.COM> |
| Subject: | Electrical Bits & Pieces |
>To: Bob Nuckolls,
>
>Bob,
>
>I did post this request to the RV-list but have sent this to you separately
>in case you feel inhibited about self-promotion.
I appreciate your sensitivity to the issues of "crass commercialism"
on directed topic groups such as rv-list. I've never made it a
secret that the AeroElectric Connection is my retirement business
and yes, for a business to survive, it must sell something. Our
approach to promotion is not the capitalistic norm for this country.
We offer to help builders find what they need and not necessarily
to sell them what we have. That's why our "gizmos" are usually
offered (1) assembled and tested, (2) kit of parts and (3) schematic
and bill of materials. The later is pretty close to free (sometimes
a nominal charge for copying and mailing). There aren't too many
organizations that will give away plans for their products!
>I am starting the wiring process (intellectually at least) on my RV 6A which
>will be full IFR (needs to be all TSO's stuff for Australian rules).
Good for you . . . ya can't start too early. Have all the planning
DONE before you start stringing wire . . .
>I plan
>to buy a B&C alternator and voltage regulator which I see listed in the ASC
>catalog. I hate dealing with ASC because they ship orders in several parts
>which costs me a fortune in freight (to Australia).
I've found AO Mail rates to be the best way to get things from here
to there . . . first class handling via air mail. Only very heavy
items (like coils of 2AWG wire) go better via freight (fedx, ups, etc.)
B&C would use more mail except that it's more difficult to insure
via the mails and further, UPS does a good job with customs issues.
Frankly, you should be able to find most of what you need in-country.
Are you participating on the internet newsgroups for amateur aviation?
Do your local internet services include search engines? If you don't
presently have usenet coverage of local amateur built aviation interests
I'd recommend you spin some up. There's no more powerful tool for
distribution of information of all types whether building or buying
materials and parts.
Recommend you put up queries for sources on things like tefzel covered
wire, terminals with metallic insulation support sleeves, etc. Many US
suppliers have distributors in Australia and sometimes, even factories.
I've got to believe the Australian military/industrial supply
mechanisms are quite capable even if they are spread thinly over
a lot of land area!
>Do you know if B&C will
>sell direct and if so do you have an EMail of fax address for them. Are they
>also good for the other electrical stuff I will need? If not is there
>another supplier you would recommend.
B&C does do business direct. Their voice number is (316) 283-8000
and they've just added a dedicated fax line at (316) 283-7400. They
don't have e-mail capabilities yet but if you want to send them
a fax you can e-mail to me and I'll forward it to their fax from
here . . . my tab for the 25 mile phone call is MUCH less than
the 12,000 mile call!
They are expanding their line of "small stuff." The AeroElectric
Connection is too. We've started building an inventory of wiring
supplies and components and will offer a procurement service for
things that builders want but are not stocked at B&C or AEC. I'm
working on a joint catalog with B&C which will be developed on our
website first at aeroelectric.com but a print version will follow
as soon as there's enough to justify printing.
We just got the domain name registered and my webcrafter is doing
it for me as a part time fun project. But check in there from time
to time and you'll get to watch the project grow. If you don't see
what you need or have a question. E-mail is the best way to get a
response.
>One thing I thought your book might like to include is a list of basic
>wiring equipment for an aircraft that details what sort of crimper, what
>spec wire etc. For the tyro there seem to be a million alternatives for the
>conductor, the insulator, single or multi-strand etc.
We already stock and will be stocking all that stuff but with a
different twist. We don't proposed to compete with the BIG guys
by laying in million dollar inventories of EVERYTHING. What you'll
find on my website are things I would use if it were my airplane.
If the inventory gets so big that it won't fit in my garage, I'll
have blown the mission! But as always, we'll strive to give you
good advice no matter where you choose to buy parts.
>Thanks,
>
>Leo Davies RV6A.
>Sydney, Australia
My pleasure . . . .
Bob Nuckolls
AeroElectric Connection
*****************************
* Go ahead, make my day. *
* Show me where I'm wrong! *
*****************************
72770.552(at)compuserv.com
nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ACCPILOT(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Burlington CO Fly-in |
Hello all
My name is Tony Cochran and I have been lurking for a few months,and I thing
this list is a great thing. Any way my dad made a beautiful T-18 as I was
growing up, then I learnd to fly in it, now that he is retired I dont get to
fly as much as I would like (does anyone??). So I am thinking of an RV-6. I
have been working on the wife and the house trying to get then ready for the
day the boxes show up.I live in the Denver area and was thinking of coming to
Burlington. I was wondering if it would be alright if I show up in my dads
T-18?? I would like to meet some of the peolpe from the list and see some of
the great RVs out there.
Tony Cochran
soon to be RV-6 builder
ps some of you may know my dad, his name is Dean. and for you folks with
Vetterman exhaust may see his name on your links that hold them together.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jcimino(at)jcimino.microserve.com (Jim Cimino) |
| Subject: | Re: close edge rivets.. |
The vise grips will work well, you squeeze a little, tighten, squeeze,
tighten, ect. I used them and didn't need pop rivets at the end. I did just
order a yoke from Avery that does not use a die on the one side for tight
places. Looks like it might work even better.
Jim Cimino
RV-8 sn 80039
jcimino(at)jcimino.microserve.com
>This week's little project for me is to come up with a good method for
>squeezing rivets in tight places ( rudder, elevator etc. ). I've tried
>most of the methods in the archive ( and then some ) except the vise grip
>squeezer mod.
>
>Can you really squeeze a rivet with a vice grip? After exprimenting, I think
>you would have to be Arnold Schwarzeneger to pull this off.
>
>Also, if this fails, does the Tatco no hole yoke work in these areas? I
>heard that it doesn't. It's $125 and so a tad expensive if it goes in the
>tool box never to be used.
>
>thanks
>
>John Walsh(at)ranger.enet.dec.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Patrick Kelley <patk(at)mail.ic.net> |
| Subject: | New pictures at my web site |
That's right! The next crop of pictures is in. Includes photos of my
heated pitot tube mount. (That is, the pitot tube is heated, not the
mount. You know what I mean!) For those who didn't bookmark it
(meanies!), or the new folk, it's at http://ic.net/~patk/rv6a.htm and
you have three choices: text, a looooong photo page, or a chapter based
presentation. I recommend the latter.
A word about the pitot mount: I make no warranty for anyone following my
method. As has been mentioned before on the list, there is a kit
available for sale, third party. The only thing I can say about my
method is that it was cheap; I have confidence in it or I wouldn't use
it, but I cannot prove the design. Also, it IS weighty, though a plane
crammed with IFR gear is not going to be a lightweight anyway. Perhaps
this is more reason to go for a lighter mount. Finally, I have NO idea
how you might go about adding it to an already built wing (flying RV or
QB kit). You can see from my text description at the web page that it
was assembled integrally with the wing.
Ok, that was more than a word :) but if I still have not discouraged
you, go ahead and do it. Just remember, you're building an
EXPERIMENTAL.
PatK - RV-6A - Too busy with the WWW to work on his plane :(
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: electrical bits and pieces |
Does anyone know if B&C products caters for all the little
>bitty bits or just major items like alternators and voltage regulators.
Does>anyone recommend them (or anyone else) as a one stop supplier. If so do
you>have an address (preferably with EMail and / or fax. I am trying to
avoid>ACS as their habit of sending the order in dribs and drabs is VERY
expensive>when the freight is to Australia.
>
>Cheers,
>
>Leo Davies
>
Leo, In one of Bob Nuckols articles, he gave Digi-Key as a source. I got
their cat. and it is more stuff than I know what it is, but certainly covers
all (well, almost all) of what is used in the aircraft. Wire, ends, etc etc.
Don't have an e-mail, but they have page http://www.digikey.com and
that might show an e-mail. I haven't ordered anything for quite a while,
but give then a try. Their 1-800-344-4539 telephone I understand is of no
use to you over there.
Address is 701 Brooks Ave. South
P.O. Box 677, Thief River Falls, MN 56701-0677
Hope this helps.
John D
John Darby RV6 N61764 flying
johnd@our-town.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Edward Cole <emcole(at)concentric.net> |
| Subject: | Re: close edge rivets.. |
cpeedy.ENET.dec.com!walsh(at)matronics.com wrote:
>
> This week's little project for me is to come up with a good method for
> squeezing rivets in tight places ( rudder, elevator etc. ). I've tried
> most of the methods in the archive ( and then some ) except the vise grip
> squeezer mod.
>
> Can you really squeeze a rivet with a vice grip? After exprimenting, I think
> you would have to be Arnold Schwarzeneger to pull this off.
>
> Also, if this fails, does the Tatco no hole yoke work in these areas? I
> heard that it doesn't. It's $125 and so a tad expensive if it goes in the
> tool box never to be used.
>
> thanks
>
> John Walsh(at)ranger.enet.dec.comJohn,
You might try bucking the rivits using a wood splitting wedge. Grind the
sharp edge down and scotchbrite the edge for a bucking surface. The
wedge is heavy and can get in tight places.
Ed Cole
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MiDiBu <midibu(at)hsv.mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | flight control configuration? |
This may seem like a really dumb question, but I've got a feeling this won't
be the last one from me.
Do you fly an RV-6 from the left side of the airplane with your left hand on
a stick and your right hand on the throttle?
I've already decided to build an -8, but this would seal the deal if that is
the normal flying configuration.
Mike Weller
midibu(at)hsv.mindspring.com (preferred) or Mike.Weller(at)msfc.nasa.gov
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MiDiBu <midibu(at)hsv.mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | quick build wings for RV-8 |
Has anyone got an idea of when the RV-8 quick build wings will be available?
I'm particulary interested in the Phlogiston spar fabrication/additions.
As I understand it, the order of building should be empennage, wing,
fuselage, and engine mount/ finishing.
I'm ordering the empennage in a few days. I'm taking one last breath before
taking the plunge. I'm a type A personality who will become totally
immersed in the empennage. I've got the space and tools to build the thing,
but I have a lingering fear that I won't be able follow up on all of the
details to build the airplane of my dreams (D-day P-51 paint scheme, full
IFR, etc.).
The tail will tell.
Mike Weller
midibu(at)hsv.mindspring.com or mike.weller(at)msfc.nasa.gov
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bcos(at)ix.netcom.com (William Costello ) |
| Subject: | Pneumatic squeezer problem |
Hi Folks,
I bought a rebuilt Chicago Pneumatic squeezer from Jerry
What's-his-name in Michigan quite a while back. Started to 'practice'
with it a while ago and I am having a devil of a time trying to tease
the sets closed prior to applying full pressure to set the rivet. It
tends to do nothing and then zip closed and really maul the rivet.
I spoke with Jerry at Oshkosh at his booth and he seemed less than
enthusiastic about helping me with the problem. Say something? Do any
of you guys have any ideas? Would sure appreciate them.
By the way, for those of you getting the panel pix, they went into the
mail early this morning (Thursday -- 19th).
Best regards,
Bill Costello
--
Bill Costello | bcos(at)ix.netcom.com | Chicago | 312-445-1246
Building RV-6 | Reserved N97WC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | OrndorffG(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Burlington CO Fly-in |
Tony the more the merrier, at flyin's airplane or airplanes, hope to see you
and your t18 there....George Orndorff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | barnhart(at)a.crl.com (Dave Barnhart) |
| Subject: | Re: close edge rivets.. |
>This week's little project for me is to come up with a good method for
>squeezing rivets in tight places
[ stuff deleted ]
>Also, if this fails, does the Tatco no hole yoke work in these areas?
If you have an Avery hand squeezer or pneumatic squeezer, the no-hole yoke
works beautifally in these areas.
Best Regards,
Dave Barnhart
barnhart(at)a.crl.com
rv-6 sn 23744
finishing kit on order
fuselage out of the jig
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)navix.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Burlington CO Fly-in |
>Hello all
>My name is Tony Cochran and I have been lurking for a few months,and I thing
>this list is a great thing. Any way my dad made a beautiful T-18 as I was
>growing up, then I learnd to fly in it, now that he is retired I dont get to
>fly as much as I would like (does anyone??). So I am thinking of an RV-6. I
>have been working on the wife and the house trying to get then ready for the
>day the boxes show up.I live in the Denver area and was thinking of coming to
>Burlington. I was wondering if it would be alright if I show up in my dads
>T-18?? I would like to meet some of the peolpe from the list and see some of
>the great RVs out there.
>Tony Cochran
>soon to be RV-6 builder
>ps some of you may know my dad, his name is Dean. and for you folks with
>Vetterman exhaust may see his name on your links that hold them together.
Tony, You bet. I've seen your dad's T-18. Nice. Of course, probably not
as nice as your RV-6 will be:) See you there. Bob Skinner RV-6 N369X
(with Cochran links)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fred Hiatt <hiatt001(at)gold.tc.umn.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: close edge rivets.. |
cpeedy.ENET.dec.com!walsh(at)matronics.com wrote:
>
> This week's little project for me is to come up with a good method for
> squeezing rivets in tight places ( rudder, elevator etc. ). I've tried
> most of the methods in the archive ( and then some ) except the vise grip
> squeezer mod.
>
> Can you really squeeze a rivet with a vice grip? After exprimenting, I think
> you would have to be Arnold Schwarzeneger to pull this off.
>
> Also, if this fails, does the Tatco no hole yoke work in these areas? I
> heard that it doesn't. It's $125 and so a tad expensive if it goes in the
> tool box never to be used.
>
> thanks
>
> John Walsh(at)ranger.enet.dec.com
John, faced with the same problem I bought a sears large vicegrip and
ground the jaws smooth and cut back both top and bottom jaw so it looks
like a duckbill. The secret to doing the job (assuming that you are not
Ahhhland, is to squeeze the rivet a little at a time, tightening the vice
grip a little at a time. Two or three squezzes works about right.
Fred
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fred Hiatt <hiatt001(at)gold.tc.umn.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: Alternator Light |
Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote:
>
> to: >internet:rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
> >I approached the master switch light the other way. I have a green LED
> >(purchased at my local electronics shop) that is always on when the
> >master switch is on. The master is just a ground switch so come off the
> >side of the switch that connects to your relay with an LED, the other end
> >of the LED needs to be connected to +12V (my LED's require a 477 ohm
> >resistor in series or they go "poof"). Whenever the master is "ON" i.e.
> >ground is made the LED is on. These are very tiny lights which fit in a
> >1/8" hole so they are not distracting during flight. I also have them
> >connected to all my circuit switches to show at a glance the switch is on.
>
> LED (Light Emitting Diodes) are "current" devices in that unlike
> incandescent lamps, the voltage drop across a diode is relatively
> constant irrespective of the light output. If you check out LED specs,
> you'll find that they have a "maximum" or "operating" current rating;
> for most single junction devices is 20 Milliamperes. Hence, a resistor
> on the order of 470 ohms will produce a 12v/470ohm = 25mA current.
> Right in the ballpark. The voltage drop for a single device is about
> 1.7 volts. The LED arrays you see on the backs of cars will hook
> several devices in series (6 devices = approx 10.2 volts) so the
> resistor drops to 2/0.020 or 100 ohms. For intermittent duty (like
> a third stop light) an overdrive value of 30 to 50 milliamperes would
> probably get you a lot more light without killing the LEDs.
>
> The annunciation above is a simple indication of hot bus . . . in no
> way is it useful for infligh failure annunciation . . . when the
> bus goes cold, you won't need a light to tell you about it . . .
>
> >Most car alternators I've seen have three connections (not counting the p
> >lead). One is for ground, one is for excitation (+12) , and the last is
> >for an alternator indicator light. It can be connected to a light that is
> >rated for 12V and will come on when the alternator is not putting out
> >much current (typical alt light on a car).
>
> True . . . but current thinking about stock automotive alternators makes
> this irrelevant . . . there ARE failure modes within all the
> alternators I've disassembled that can produce over voltage runaways.
> Modern ALTERNATORS are fine devices and quite worthy of installation
> on airplanes provided you remove the built-in REGULATOR and
> change the brush wiring so that an ov protected, external regulator
> can be used.
>
> >I just left it disconnected
> >because I am using an EI volt/amp digital meter connected through the
> >alternator p lead. This tells me directly how many amps (+/- .1) the
> >alternator is putting out and the voltage the alternator is holding. If
> >I turn off the field to the alternator (through a circuit switch) the
> >meter tells me what voltage the battery is holding. There are other ways
> >to connect the meter and all are explained very thoroughly in the
> >instructions. This is the best solution IMHO.
>
> No instrumentation either digital or analog is a substitute for
> active, low voltage annunciation. Aviation history is replete
> with stories where the writer says, " . . then the panel went
> dark . . ." or " . . . pressed the mic button and nothing happened."
> MOST of these cases involve silent failure of an alternator that
> went un-noticed until things started dying. The 13.0 lv monitor
> I described earlier will light the light in seconds after an
> alternator shuts down.
>
> >Each lead on the alternator is marked with a letter which is standard, I
> >don't remember them off-hand but have them written down at home and will
> >get them to you if needed.
>
> Standard markings of stock automotive alternators should be replaced
> by your own markings resulting from internal modifications described
> above.
>
> Bob . . .
>
> *****************************
> * Go ahead, make my day . . *
> * Show me where I'm wrong! *
> *****************************
>
> 72770.552(at)compuserve.com
> New web site at aeroelectric.com
Please correct me if i'm wrong, but, a silicon semiconductor junction
voltage drop is 0.7 volts, unless resistance is placed internally, or if
there are two junctions in series. This voltage drop should remain
constant until the current is high enough to cause junction breakdown
(failure). High brilianc LED's are`also available at Radio Shack that are
very bright
Fred, RV-6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | EBundy2620(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | ELT's and antennas |
Well, it's true. The last 10% of the project DOES take 90% of the time. I
feel like I'm being overwhelmed by details. Thanks to all that have so
generously helped out.
Today's question... Has anyone mounted an AK-450 ELT in an RV? This little
unit is VERY particular about its orientation and mounting surface. The C150
I once owned had a small unit mounted to the inside skin of the airplane.
Hah! according to the instructions for this thing, it has to mount on 1/2"
plate steel attached with gussets to the spar and engine mount. Okay, so I'm
exaggerating a little bit.
I'm thinking about mounting it on the baggage floor behind the passenger seat
up against the right wall and 1/8" behind the horizontal flap actuator bar.
That way I can catch the bulkhead and one of the baggage floor ribs under
the ELT mount. Anyone have ideas?
Also, it has a ghastly 26" antenna that's supposed to be mounted on top of
the aircraft. Ugh. Any way around this?
On a related note, I'm planning on mounting a comm antenna on the belly just
ahead of the spar, and a transponder antenna about a foot or so ahead of
that. Any problems mounting them that close together?
Thanks a lot,
Ed Bundy
ebundy2620(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | EBundy2620(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Van in Vall...(KIDDING!) |
<< How is everybody supporting their uprighted fuselage? For now I have a
sawhorse under the firewall and tailspring (putting in seat skins, etc.).
I now need to climb inside to backdrill my top fuse skins, and later for
instrument/systems installation. I'm 220+ lbs. I was thinking about wooden
cradles underneath each bulkhead. Overkill? >>
I used my fuselage jig. Took the legs off and replaced them with jackstands,
then used foam on the crossmembers (which happen to line up exactly with the
bulkheads, naturally) and raised it up. It gives complete support to the
airframe no matter where you're working on it.
Ed Bundy
ebundy2620(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terence Gannon" <Terence_Gannon(at)msn.com> |
Folks - before I start doing things that I might regret later, I thought that
I would confirm the following; The problem that I've got is that the flange on
the EET-601 that mates to the spar looks like it needs to be cut away where it
interferes with the E-605 flange that also mates to the spar. Also, I can't
find a reference to the rivet spacing when you attach it to the spar? Can 1
1/4" be assumed?
Any thoughts on the above would be very much appreciated...
Terry in Calgary
S/N 24414
"Empennage"
PS. Rumors of my demise have been *greatly* exaggerated! I have been
preoccupied with work related matters, second priority has been actually
working on the -6 (I'm on track for a record number of hours this month!), and
next is *talking* about RVs on the list. It's good to be back!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)navix.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Pneumatic squeezer problem |
>I bought a rebuilt Chicago Pneumatic squeezer from Jerry
>What's-his-name in Michigan quite a while back. Started to 'practice'
>with it a while ago and I am having a devil of a time trying to tease
>the sets closed prior to applying full pressure to set the rivet. It
>tends to do nothing and then zip closed and really maul the rivet.
>Best regards, Bill Costello
Bill, Do you have experience using other squeezers so you can compare
operation. If not, it may be that you just have to develope a technique. I
did bend the trigger on mine so it was in a more "operable" position. You
may want to call Bob Avery and see if he can give you some advice or
possibly re-build it for you.
Bob Skinner RV-6 BSkinner(at)krvn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bcon(at)ix.netcom.com (Robert M. Cornacchia ) |
| Subject: | Re: close edge rivets.. |
You wrote:
>
>This week's little project for me is to come up with a good method for
>squeezing rivets in tight places ( rudder, elevator etc. ). I've
tried
>most of the methods in the archive ( and then some ) except the vise
grip
>squeezer mod.
>
>Can you really squeeze a rivet with a vice grip? After exprimenting,
I think
>you would have to be Arnold Schwarzeneger to pull this off.
>
>Also, if this fails, does the Tatco no hole yoke work in these areas?
I
>heard that it doesn't. It's $125 and so a tad expensive if it goes in
the
>tool box never to be used.
>
>thanks
>
>John Walsh(at)ranger.enet.dec.com
>
Hi John,
I have a Tatco squeezer and the no hole yoke. It's works verry well for
me, also the Tatco hand squeezer is the second one I bought(brand) I
sold the first squeezer. I love my TATCO.
Bob Cornacchia
Mooney M20C building RV6 working on wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV6 accident |
**** 09/19/96 Preliminary Accident/Incident Data Record RECORD 2 ****
A. Type: Accident Mid Air:N Missing:N Entry date: 09/18/96 #
From: DELAWARE COUNTY, IN, SHERIFF'S DEPT.
B. Reg.No.: 952JT M/M: EXP Desc: EXP/HOMEBUILT: VANS RV-4
Activity: Pleasure Phase: Unknown GA-A/C: General Aviation
Descr: ACFT CRASHED UNDER UNKNOWN CIRCUMSTANCES, THE 2 POB SUFFERED FATAL
INJURIES, THE ACFT WAS DESTROYED, MUNCIE, IN.
WX: KMIE METAR 171745Z 02010KT 10SM FEW040 SCT060 19/ A3002 Damage:
Destroyed
C2. Injury Data: # Crew: 1 Fat: 1 Ser: 0 Min: 0 Unk:
# Pass: 1 Fat: 1 Ser: 0 Min: 0 Unk:
# Grnd: Fat: 0 Ser: 0 Min: 0 UNK:
D. Location City: MUNCIE State: IN
E. Occ Date: 09/17/96 Time: 18:45
F. Invest Coverage. IIC: ENLOW Reg/DO: GL11 DO CTY: INDIANAPOLIS
DO State: IN Others: NTSB
G. Flt Handling. Dep Pt: MUNCIE, IN Dep Date: 09/17/96 Time:
Dest: MUNCIE, IN Last Radio Cont: UNKN Flt Plan: UNK
Last Clearance: UNKN WX Briefing:
Other:
AAI IIC:
________________________________________________________________________________
OK, time for more questions. Feel free to emil me the answers direct if
easier.
Between the Lycoming 320 and 360 on an RV-6(A)
1.) What is the difference in performance cruise at 75% power?
2.) What is the difference in rate of climb at gross?
3.) What is the realistic ceiling at gross?
Thanks for the answers!
For Randy -RV-6A
Cleaning the garage and saving the money!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JamesCone(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Pedal Cables |
To keep the rudder cables from pulling the gromet out and to make them
operate smoothly with no rubbing noise, wrap them with cable wrap available
from West Marine (800) 538-0775. It comes is 6 ft. lengths and is very light
and smooth. I wrapped my cables from the pedals to the tail. It's cheap
too. They have a very nice catalog that is free with all sorts of goodies
that you can use on your RV. It is very interesting that the same things
used on a boat cost half as much as they do if they are labeled for aircraft
use.
Jim Cone
jamescone(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JamesCone(at)aol.com |
Your newsletters are on the way.
Jim Cone
jamescone(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: close edge rivets.. |
>This week's little project for me is to come up with a good method for
>squeezing rivets in tight places ( rudder, elevator etc. ). I've tried
>most of the methods in the archive ( and then some ) except the vise grip
>squeezer mod.
A pc of aircraft trivia:
Luscombe used soft rivets in hard to reach areas of the stabs & rudder &
elevs....
Check six!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | RV Builders' Yeller Pages (NEED INFO) |
OK Matt, you talked me into it.
To all you of you fine folks presently on the list, this is an urgent call
for info. If you have a personal website or you know of other websites
featuring good pictures of RVs, pictures of yourselves naked with an RV in
the background, info regarding building RVs, info alluding to thinking about
building RVs and/or even just sampled sounds of RVs flying overhead, please
send the URL info to me directly at vanremog(at)aol.com, ASAP. I will compile
and post the URL listing as an addendum to the RV Builders' Yeller Pages. If
you have phone numbers of other sources of supply that you think may benefit
your fellow builders, send that too.
Maybe by the end of Sept I can debut the New Yeller Pages and send the Old
Yeller Pages off to the pound.
Gary VanRemortel
vanremog(at)aol.com
N1GV (having a baffling time and getting close)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Patrick Kelley <patk(at)mail.ic.net> |
| Subject: | Re: flight control configuration? |
MiDiBu wrote:
>
> Do you fly an RV-6 from the left side of the airplane with your left hand on
> a stick and your right hand on the throttle?
Well...yeah. But why is this such a big deal? Looks the same as the
Cessnas I started in, and like the Beech Duchess I got my ME rating in
(except the right hand was on a quadrant rather than a vernier). My
flight instructor advised me to learn to fly either way, as a CFI
usually flies right hand on stick/yoke and left on throttle. So does a
First Officer. So, even though I am a 'righty' and prefer the Captain's
position you describe, the Co-pilot's position works for me as well.
Also, if you prefer left hand throttle, why not just sit in the
right-hand seat?
All that aside, the -8 is a cool plane. Maybe Van'll have a -8A ready
by the time I'm looking for another project. ;@) I'd enjoy the
center-seat view.
PatK - RV-6A - My painter went to Reno for the races - and didn't take
me :(
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Allan W. Mojzisik" <prober(at)iwaynet.net> |
| Subject: | Pneumatic squeezer problem |
------ =_NextPart_000_01BBA6CE.8C76F2A0
Bill,
Pneumatic squeezers are a relatively simple mechanical tool. I would =
recommend that you disassemble it, being carefull not to lose or =
misplace any springs or ball bearings, clean the parts all up with a =
mild solvent to get rid of the the old oil and reoil everything with =
clean new oil for pneumatic tools. This will usually make the tool work =
like new. Also a good time to check the leather or rubber piston =
diaphram. If you need any parts they should be easy to get from the Mfg. =
Their name and city should be stamped on the outside. Just call =
information for that city to get the phone number. Also remember that =
the pmeumatic squeezers max power is toward the end of the stroke, so =
you should use as flat a die as possible on the top arm. Hope this =
helps.........
Al prober(at)iwaynet.net (N162NV Res.)
----------
From: William Costello [SMTP:ix.netcom.com!bcos(at)matronics.com]
Sent: Thursday, September 19, 1996 7:04 PM
Subject: RV-List: Pneumatic squeezer problem
Hi Folks,
I bought a rebuilt Chicago Pneumatic squeezer from Jerry=20
What's-his-name in Michigan quite a while back. Started to 'practice'=20
with it a while ago and I am having a devil of a time trying to tease=20
the sets closed prior to applying full pressure to set the rivet. It=20
tends to do nothing and then zip closed and really maul the rivet.
I spoke with Jerry at Oshkosh at his booth and he seemed less than=20
enthusiastic about helping me with the problem. Say something? Do any=20
of you guys have any ideas? Would sure appreciate them.
By the way, for those of you getting the panel pix, they went into the=20
mail early this morning (Thursday -- 19th).
Best regards,
Bill Costello=20
--=20
Bill Costello | bcos(at)ix.netcom.com | Chicago | 312-445-1246
Building RV-6 | Reserved N97WC
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------ =_NextPart_000_01BBA6CE.8C76F2A0--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | OrndorffG(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: quick build wings for RV-8 |
Mike,
The last I heared was that the wings woould be available the end of this
month.
Don;t hold your breath they said the same thing last month but one can always
hope.....George Orndorff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | OrndorffG(at)aol.com |
Randy,
I do not feel like doing all the typing required to tell you the differences
give me a call at 817-439-3280 and we ca talk about it..... George Orndorff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | chinkley(at)ix.netcom.com (Curtis R. Hinkley) |
| Subject: | Re: quick build wings for RV-8 |
You wrote:
>
>Has anyone got an idea of when the RV-8 quick build wings will be
available? I'm particulary interested in the Phlogiston spar
fabrication/additions. As I understand it, the order of building should
be empennage, wing, fuselage, and engine mount/ finishing. I'm ordering
the empennage in a few days. I'm taking one last breath before taking
the plunge. I'm a type A personality who will become totally immersed
in the empennage. I've got the space and tools to build the thing,
>but I have a lingering fear that I won't be able follow up on all of
the details to build the airplane of my dreams (D-day P-51 paint
scheme, full IFR, etc.).
>
>The tail will tell.
>
>Mike Weller
>midibu(at)hsv.mindspring.com or mike.weller(at)msfc.nasa.gov
>
Mike,
It sounds like the only thing your missing before you become totally
immersed in the empennage is George Orndorff's new RV-8 Tape.
Curtis Hinkley
RV-8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Filnet Serveis i Comunicacions <board(at)filnet.es> |
| Subject: | Re: close edge rivets.. |
Fred Hiatt wrote:
>
> cpeedy.ENET.dec.com!walsh(at)matronics.com wrote:
> >leave
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | OrndorffG(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Pneumatic squeezer problem |
Bill, call avery's 817-439-8400 Bob can fix that for you...George Orndorff
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: ELT's and antennas |
| From: | wstucklen1(at)juno.com (Frederic W Stucklen) |
writes:
>Well, it's true. The last 10% of the project DOES take 90% of the time.
I
>feel like I'm being overwhelmed by details. Thanks to all that have so
>generously helped out.
Isn't that the truth!
>Today's question... Has anyone mounted an AK-450 ELT in an RV? This
little
>unit is VERY particular about its orientation and mounting surface. The
C150
>I once owned had a small unit mounted to the inside skin of the
airplane.
> Hah! according to the instructions for this thing, it has to mount on
1/2"
>plate steel attached with gussets to the spar and engine mount. Okay,
so I'm
>exaggerating a little bit.
> I'm thinking about mounting it on the baggage floor behind the
passenger seat
>up against the right wall and 1/8" behind the horizontal flap actuator
bar.
>That way I can catch the bulkhead and one of the baggage floor ribs
under
>the ELT mount. Anyone have ideas?
I mounted my ACK uit in the baggage compartment left side front
flap actuator cover/panel. Works well there and is out of the
way of most baggage. I mounted the antenna on cornor bracket behind
the F-605 bulkhead INSIDE the cockpit. It curves up the plexi behing
the rollbar in the -6A tiltup canopy version.
>Also, it has a ghastly 26" antenna that's supposed to be mounted on top
of
>the aircraft. Ugh. Any way around this?
>
>On a related note, I'm planning on mounting a comm antenna on the belly
just
>ahead of the spar, and a transponder antenna about a foot or so ahead of
>that. Any problems mounting them that close together?
>
>Thanks a lot,
>Ed Bundy
>ebundy2620(at)aol.com
>
Fred Stucklen RV-6A N925RV
wstucklen1(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Gesele <scottg(at)villagenet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Pedal Cables |
> It is very interesting that the same things
>used on a boat cost half as much as they do if they are labeled for aircraft
>use.
>
>Jim Cone
>jamescone(at)aol.com
>
>
And the same things we use on out cars cost half as much as they do if they
are considered marine use. Now if only we could convince Ford to start
making light airplanes :)
-Scott Gesele N506RV
scottg(at)villagenet.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | walsh(at)cpeedy.ENET.dec.com |
| Subject: | Re: close edge rivets.. |
Thanks for all the replies on the close edge rivets.
Last night I tried squeezing one using my hand squeezer. I layed my rudder
on the back rivet plate and placed a piece of square 3/8" steel bar stock
on the head of the rivet. I then placed my Tatco squeezer around the bar
stock and back rivet plate.
Result: I bent the 3/8" steel until it touched the back rivet plate but
did not get a completely formed head. I then used a 3/4" square steel
bar and was barely able to form a head before the 3/4" steel bent.
Gives you a new respect for how much force the hand squeezer is generating.
3/4" is too big to get at the tight ones anyway so that's not a real option.
The hammer based options are out. I just can't bring myself to do it<1/2g>.
I bought a 7" 7cw Vice Grip. This model has a smaller "nose" on the jaws
and is very similar to the one Avery uses for the vice grip dimple dies.
I closed the vice grip all the way and tried squeezing one. I could not
generate enough force by hand, so I took one of my quick clamps and squeezed
the vice grip handles with it. I closed the vice grip handles completely
but did very little to the rivet.
Fred, you must have used a very LARGE vice grip. I still think the vice
grip suggestion is Van's subtle sense of humor showing through again.
Well, that's enough fun for me. It's time to get back to building the
airplane.
Thanks again.
John Walsh(at)ranger.enet.dec.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "r.acker" <r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Van in Vall...(KIDDING!) |
><< How is everybody supporting their uprighted fuselage? For now I have a
> sawhorse under the firewall and tailspring (putting in seat skins, etc.).
>
>I used my fuselage jig. Took the legs off and replaced them with jackstands,
>then used foam on the crossmembers (which happen to line up exactly with the
>bulkheads, naturally) and raised it up. It gives complete support to the
>airframe no matter where you're working on it.
>
>Ed Bundy
>ebundy2620(at)aol.com
>
Well, that's the problem. I don't have a fuselage jig (quickbuild kit).
Good idea though, thanks.
Rob Acker (r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com)
Rancho Santa Margarita, CA / RV-6Q / N164RA reserved
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "r.acker" <r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: flight control configuration? |
>This may seem like a really dumb question, but I've got a feeling this won't
>be the last one from me.
>Do you fly an RV-6 from the left side of the airplane with your left hand on
>a stick and your right hand on the throttle?
>I've already decided to build an -8, but this would seal the deal if that is
>the normal flying configuration.
>
>Mike Weller
>midibu(at)hsv.mindspring.com (preferred) or Mike.Weller(at)msfc.nasa.gov
>
>
You can set up either plane for any stick/throttle configuration you want.
That's what's so nice about an experimental :).
Most 6's I have seen are LH pilot/stick and RH throttle. Some people fly
from the right and therefore have RH pilot/stick and LH throttle. My six
will probably have dual LH throttles, with me sitting on the left (anybody
have ideas on how to set this up?).
Rob Acker (r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com)
Rancho Santa Margarita, CA / RV-6Q / N164RA reserved
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ernstrm(at)alpha.hendrix.edu (Richard Ernst) |
| Subject: | pitot mounting screws; towbar |
I just mounted a salvaged heated pitot tube (looks good), but the four
screws that mount the pitot to the streamline tubing mount (homemade)
aren't too pretty. These are 6-40 flat-head screws, 1/4" long, and seem
not to be stocked by anyone in the world, including a couple of A&P
friends. Does anyone out there know of a source?
A friend is getting ready to fly his -4 and is looking for a towbar. He
has a non-swiveling tailwheel. Aircraft Spruce has two tailwheel towbars,
and I found the phone number for Skyline Aviation in the RV Archives. Does
anyone have a recommendation?
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Richard M. Ernst ernstrm(at)alpha.hendrix.edu
Department of Physics office: (501) 450-3808
Hendrix College fax: (501) 450-3829
1600 Washington Ave.
Conway, AR 72032-3080
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV Builders' Yeller Pages (NEED INFO) |
Van's Michigan Wing (bulders' group)
http://members.tripod.com/~6Alady/rvmi.html
Greater Flint Pilots' Association (flying club - fly while building!)
http://iavbbs.com/jgh/gfpa.htm
SkySports, Int - instruments and accessories for home-builts and
kit-planes
http://www.usaol.com/YP/aviation/SkySports_International.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)navix.net> |
| Subject: | Re: ELT's and antennas |
> Today's question... Has anyone mounted an AK-450 ELT in an RV? This little
>unit is VERY particular about its orientation and mounting surface. The C150
>I once owned had a small unit mounted to the inside skin of the airplane.
> Hah! according to the instructions for this thing, it has to mount on 1/2"
>plate steel attached with gussets to the spar and engine mount. Okay, so I'm
>exaggerating a little bit.
> I'm thinking about mounting it on the baggage floor behind the passenger seat
>up against the right wall and 1/8" behind the horizontal flap actuator bar.
> That way I can catch the bulkhead and one of the baggage floor ribs under
>the ELT mount. Anyone have ideas?
> Also, it has a ghastly 26" antenna that's supposed to be mounted on top of
>the aircraft. Ugh. Any way around this?
> On a related note, I'm planning on mounting a comm antenna on the belly just
>ahead of the spar, and a transponder antenna about a foot or so ahead of
>that. Any problems mounting them that close together?
>Ed Bundy ebundy2620(at)aol.com
Ed,
You're building a six, right? I'd try to mount the ELT between the front
spar and battery box. Especially if you are going to use a wood prop, you
need to get the CG as far forward as possible. I put mine in the bagggage
compartment and now regret that I did. Also, if you fabricate a suitable
bracket, the .040" belly skin with all of those stiffners would be a pretty
solid mounting place.
You're right. Those ELT antennas are ugly. I puzzled about top or bottom
mounting and then decided to mount the antenna in the baggage compartment,
positioning the tip of the antenna centrally in the rear window. I know
from a "radiation" standpoint, this is not the best location. My thinking
was, that in a crash, that the antenna could be wiped off the bottom or the
top (roll over) of the airplane, rendering the ELT useless and that in the
cockpit, the chances of the antennas survivability would be best.
I mounted my comm antenna in the same location, right below the fuel
selector valve. This location also has the advantage in that, if the panel
mount comm quits working, you could reach over and disconnect the BNC
connector and hook up another antenna lead from a hand held comm.
I think it is generally recommended that there be a least 24" between
radiating antennas. Also, if the Xpnder ant. is on the centerline it might
get crudded up with exhaust gunk. Also, the connecting to the antenna would
be hidden by the battery box making access harder. I mounted my transponder
antenna over near the right fuel vent.
I've not gotten any complaints from ATC but this is not a very good location
for best antenna perforance. A better location for the transponder ant.
would probably be aft of the comm, on the center line of the A/C.
Bob Skinner RV-6 BSkinner(at)krvn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don McNamara <mcnamara(at)sbt.infi.net> |
| Subject: | Re: quick build wings for RV-8 |
> It sounds like the only thing your missing before you become totally
> immersed in the empennage is George Orndorff's new RV-8 Tape.
>
> Curtis Hinkley
> RV-8
RV Listers--
OK, time for a plug. With all the hullaballoo over commercialism quieted
down, here's a tip for all new builders:
BUY GEORGE ORNDORFF'S VIDEOS!!
I just started my RV-8 tail, thought I was doing OK by the plans, then
realized that I'd screwed up a couple of very tiny details. Presto!
Four pieces of meticulously manufactured aluminum scrap.
When the prepunched videos became available, I sat down and watched how
it was SUPPOSED to be done, and it all made sense! Had I seen the videos
first, I doubt that I'd have screwed up the pieces as I did, and I'd be
farther along the road than I am now.
So, beg, borrow, steal or buy the videos BEFORE you start!
[George, you can send me a check now, please ;) ]
--Don McNamara
two steps forward, one step back...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Greg Bordelon <greg(at)brokersys.com> |
| Subject: | flight control configuration? |
To answer your question directly...Yes! BUT many RV6s have been configured
diferently ie. left seat with left mounted throttles, right seat / right
flight instruments with center throttles. The configuration is up to the
builder. Being a Cessna pilot, I like the throttle in my right hand.
Greg Bordelon
greg(at)brokersys.com
building "6" tail
----------
From: MiDiBu[SMTP:hsv.mindspring.com!midibu(at)matronics.com]
Sent: Thursday, September 19, 1996 6:19 PM
Subject: RV-List: flight control configuration?
This may seem like a really dumb question, but I've got a feeling this
won't
be the last one from me.
Do you fly an RV-6 from the left side of the airplane with your left hand
on
a stick and your right hand on the throttle?
I've already decided to build an -8, but this would seal the deal if that
is
the normal flying configuration.
Mike Weller
midibu(at)hsv.mindspring.com (preferred) or Mike.Weller(at)msfc.nasa.gov
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Greg Bordelon <greg(at)brokersys.com> |
George,
I would prefer it if you would post your comments to the list. I'm sure I speak
for many of us.
Thanks - Greg Bordelon
greg(at)brokersys.com
Randy,
I do not feel like doing all the typing required to tell you the differences
give me a call at 817-439-3280 and we ca talk about it..... George Orndorff
begin 600 WINMAIL.DAT
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M($<"$ 7 `X%Y(&\C<'4N`#T``0````4```!213H@`````/;?
`
end
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
| Subject: | Re: flight control configuration? |
> Do you fly an RV-6 from the left side of the airplane with your left hand on
> a stick and your right hand on the throttle?
> I've already decided to build an -8, but this would seal the deal if that is
> the normal flying configuration.
Yes, that's the way you fly it, unless you set up the right seat for PIC
as a few have done.
Frankly I can't figure out why some people think this is so important.
You can get used to either configuration very quickly.
I have recent PIC time in 3 different configurations (lh throttle rh
stick, rh throttle lh yoke, and rh throttle lh stick), and I never gave
much thought to which hand was controlling what. It's just another part
of getting used to a different airplane.
But hey, sounds like you really want an -8 anyway. Can't argue with
that!
Randall Henderson, RV-6
randall(at)edt.com
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
| Subject: | Re: Pneumatic squeezer problem |
> I bought a rebuilt Chicago Pneumatic squeezer from Jerry
> What's-his-name in Michigan quite a while back. Started to 'practice'
> with it a while ago and I am having a devil of a time trying to tease
> the sets closed prior to applying full pressure to set the rivet. It
> tends to do nothing and then zip closed and really maul the rivet.
I wonder if this isn't just a technique thing. You should use washers
to adjust the distance between the dies such that when the plunger is
fully extended, it will not overdrive the rivet. If it is adjusted too
close, yes, that will happen -- the pressure builds up and then if/when
it does "go", it goes all at once. I rarely try to "feather" the
pneumatic, it seems to be an all or none type of tool (for me anyhow,
others may disagree).
For a given piece of work, I start with the first rivet and adjust the
gap progressively smaller, depressing the trigger fully each time, until
it is right. Then just go down the line and set rivets, no feathering
needed.
One thing that helps a LOT is that I have an adjustable plunger that
screws in and out like the Tatco. This does not come with the tool, but
I seem to remember someone mentioning a source for them on the list a
long time ago (check the archives). As I recall they were pretty
spendy. I have a friend who is a toolmaker who made one for me. I
highly recommend getting something like this if you can do so at a
reasonable price. Maybe someone else knows of a source.
Randall Henderson, RV-6
randall(at)edt.com
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | david_fried(at)smtpgwy.dehavilland.ca |
I saw a very nice 6a the other day with one of those rather large ELT
whips on the fuselage top just behind the cabin. It had a rubber,
cone-shaped base and a tight coil (5.8 * 2 inches) half way up what
seemed to be 1.5 to 2 feet of wire. This is supposed to be a 200 mph
airplane, I'm hoping there are alternatives.
With this installation there will not be much of a signal in case of a
turn-over. With a belly mounted antenna the turnover is covered but
the upright landing isn't.
I think that placing a long whip in the baggage compartment would put
it into contact with metal structure. This may interfere with the
radiation pattern.
Is there an ELT with a smaller antenna that will fit into the baggage
compartment (like you might find on a handheld com)?
Does it make sense to duplex the com antenna?
David Fried
dfried(at)dehavilland.ca
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil (Mike Wills) |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Pedal Cables |
>
>> It is very interesting that the same things
>>used on a boat cost half as much as they do if they are labeled for aircraft
>>use.
>>
>>Jim Cone
>>jamescone(at)aol.com
>>
>>
>
>And the same things we use on out cars cost half as much as they do if they
>are considered marine use. Now if only we could convince Ford to start
>making light airplanes :)
>
>-Scott Gesele N506RV
>scottg(at)villagenet.com
>
>
>
Actually your math is a little off. I can buy a brand new engine from Mr.
Goodwrench for about an eighth the cost of a rebuilt Lycoming O-320.
Mike Wills
RV-4 (working on wings)
willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BARNES_ERIC(at)Tandem.COM |
| Subject: | quick build wings for RV-8 |
Hey Mike, glad to see you joining the "club". As far as the RV-8 wing,
it is entirely different from the rest of the series, being a 4 piece
structure vs. 30+. As such, the Phlogiston spar is not an option - it's
STANDARD. Bill at Van's said the extra $ were so much less with the new
design they just decided to make it standard.
My understanding is that it also necessitated new tooling at Phlogiston
(gossip at the homecoming), and they haven't gotten it working right
yet. I don't know if anyone has an update on when they will be
available, but for those anxious builders Van's is sending out other
pieces of the wing that can be done while Phlogiston gets up to speed.
Hope this helps.
EB
barnes_eric(at)tandem.com
------------ ORIGINAL ATTACHMENT --------
SENT 09-19-96 FROM SMTPGATE (midibu(at)hsv.mindspring.com)
Has anyone got an idea of when the RV-8 quick build wings will be available?
I'm particulary interested in the Phlogiston spar fabrication/additions.
As I understand it, the order of building should be empennage, wing,
fuselage, and engine mount/ finishing.
I'm ordering the empennage in a few days. I'm taking one last breath before
taking the plunge. I'm a type A personality who will become totally
immersed in the empennage. I've got the space and tools to build the thing,
but I have a lingering fear that I won't be able follow up on all of the
details to build the airplane of my dreams (D-day P-51 paint scheme, full
IFR, etc.).
The tail will tell.
Mike Weller
midibu(at)hsv.mindspring.com or mike.weller(at)msfc.nasa.gov
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fred Hiatt <72770.552(at)CompuServe.COM>" <72770.552(at)CompuServe.COM> |
| Subject: | Alternator Light |
Subj: Alternator Light
.
.
>> LED (Light Emitting Diodes) are "current" devices in that unlike
>> incandescent lamps, the voltage drop across a diode is relatively
>> constant irrespective of the light output. If you check out LED specs,
>> you'll find that they have a "maximum" or "operating" current rating;
>> for most single junction devices is 20 Milliamperes. Hence, a resistor
>> on the order of 470 ohms will produce a 12v/470ohm = 25mA current.
>> Right in the ballpark. The voltage drop for a single device is about
>> 1.7 volts. The LED arrays you see on the backs of cars will hook
>> several devices in series (6 devices = approx 10.2 volts) so the
>> resistor drops to 2/0.020 or 100 ohms. For intermittent duty (like
>> a third stop light) an overdrive value of 30 to 50 milliamperes would
>> probably get you a lot more light without killing the LEDs.
>
>Please correct me if i'm wrong, but, a silicon semiconductor junction
>voltage drop is 0.7 volts, unless resistance is placed internally, or if
>there are two junctions in series. This voltage drop should remain
>constant until the current is high enough to cause junction breakdown
>(failure).
>Fred, RV-6A
Good question! I've not really paid any attention to the differences but
a quick look through my engineering texts suggest the following description
of light emitting diodes. First, they are single junction p-n devices
and they are biased in the forward direction. The silicon rectifier
diode has been optomized for the lowest possible voltage drop and only
special devices like Schottky rectifiers have lower than 0.6 volts
per junction drops. For a light emitting diode to produce light, an
avalanch condition has to exist. I would loosly describe "avalanch" as
the ripping of electrons from the outer shells of an atom an allowing
them to fall back into place. The rip-out energy is provided by our
external application of power. When the electrons fall back, due to
the nature of the atomic structure, they give up their excess energy
in the form of some color of light. Unlike zeners which avalanch in the
reverse bias modes on the order of several volts, an LED's structure
suggest a very INEFFICIENT rectifier that has been optomize for light
output . . . hence a somewhat increased drop in the forward direction.
>High briliance LED's are also available at Radio Shack that are
>very bright
You betcha! I'm seeing devices as hot as 13,000 mcd in the catalogs.
LED arrays are showing up on the rear end of cars and these are all
very high output devices. My sense is that we're not far from being
able to produce satisfactory, solid state replacements for red
strobe lights on airplanes. Somewhere on a LONG list of things to
do, I want to develop an LED array for panel flood lighting on
airplanes.
Bob . . .
AeroElectric Connection
****************************
* Go ahead, make my day. *
* Show me where I'm wrong! *
****************************
72770.552(at)compuserve.com
nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | david_fried(at)smtpgwy.dehavilland.ca |
| Subject: | flight control configuration? |
Check the archives. This thread carried on for a while a year or so
ago. Ken Hitchmough has the set up that you describe and it works
well.
David Fried
dfried(at)dehavilland.ca
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Re: RV-List: flight control configuration?
Date: 9/20/96 02:07 PM
Most 6's I have seen are LH pilot/stick and RH throttle. Some people fly
from the right and therefore have RH pilot/stick and LH throttle. My six
will probably have dual LH throttles, with me sitting on the left (anybody
have ideas on how to set this up?).
Rob Acker (r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com)
Rancho Santa Margarita, CA / RV-6Q / N164RA reserved
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gil(at)rassp.hac.com (Gil Alexander) |
| Subject: | Re: Pneumatic squeezer problem |
>Hi Folks,
>
>I bought a rebuilt Chicago Pneumatic squeezer from Jerry
>What's-his-name in Michigan quite a while back. Started to 'practice'
>with it a while ago and I am having a devil of a time trying to tease
>the sets closed prior to applying full pressure to set the rivet. It
>tends to do nothing and then zip closed and really maul the rivet.
>
>
>Best regards,
>
>Bill Costello
Bill,
... the squeezer we obtained (it floats around 4-5 local builders)
came from a retired aerospace worker's garage .... :^)
It did not have a "progressive" trigger, and just went "ker-chunk"
when activated. Sid Goldin (the air tool king) in Visalia changed the
slide valve that the trigger activates and turned it into a smoothly
operating device.
If you disassemble it, the "ker-chunk" valve has a right angle at
the end of the control area, while the smooth valve has a taper. The valve
is a sliding, rod-like device, with "air on" controlled by a narrower
diameter center section. It is the ends of this narrower section that make
the difference. You should disassemble your squeezer trigger and see which
type you have. Replacement valves are available.
Even after changing the valve, I find my squeezer easier to use if
I don't use the return spring around the moveable set. This is the spring
that you drop every time you change yokes ... :^) This enables me to slide
the sets into position on the rivet, and then activate the "force". I find
I can keep things much more square this way, and get less folded rivets.
If you are dimpling, you get way less "punched holes" ... :^)
CAUTION. I don't know the safety aspects of leaving this return
spring out. It might violate all sorts of OSHA requirements. Do so at
your own risk. However, most aspects of using the squeezer have a lot of
potential danger (2000# pressure on a finger would be very bad news), so
lots of caution is needed with this tool.
... hope this helps .... Gil (no spring) Alexander
RV6A, #20701
gil(at)rassp.hac.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BARNES_ERIC(at)Tandem.COM |
| Subject: | quick build wings for RV-8 |
Hey Mike, glad to see you joining the "club". As far as the RV-8 wing,
it is entirely different from the rest of the series, being a 4 piece
structure vs. 30+. As such, the Phlogiston spar is not an option - it's
STANDARD. Bill at Van's said the extra $ were so much less with the new
design they just decided to make it standard.
My understanding is that it also necessitated new tooling at Phlogiston
(gossip at the homecoming), and they haven't gotten it working right
yet. I don't know if anyone has an update on when they will be
available, but for those anxious builders Van's is sending out other
pieces of the wing that can be done while Phlogiston gets up to speed.
Hope this helps.
EB
barnes_eric(at)tandem.com
------------ ORIGINAL ATTACHMENT --------
SENT 09-19-96 FROM SMTPGATE @MAILMN (midibu(at)hsv.mindspring.com)
Has anyone got an idea of when the RV-8 quick build wings will be available?
I'm particulary interested in the Phlogiston spar fabrication/additions.
As I understand it, the order of building should be empennage, wing,
fuselage, and engine mount/ finishing.
I'm ordering the empennage in a few days. I'm taking one last breath before
taking the plunge. I'm a type A personality who will become totally
immersed in the empennage. I've got the space and tools to build the thing,
but I have a lingering fear that I won't be able follow up on all of the
details to build the airplane of my dreams (D-day P-51 paint scheme, full
IFR, etc.).
The tail will tell.
Mike Weller
midibu(at)hsv.mindspring.com or mike.weller(at)msfc.nasa.gov
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Boudro" <dboudro(at)pop.nmia.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Upside down flap hinges(comment) |
Tim,
The reason I suggested you leave yourself a way to adjust the flap
laterally is because I've installed flaps on two of my own RV-4's and help
with the installation of one other. In two cases (two flaps) there was
enough interference with the fuselage to create a real problem. In one
case we were able to remove enough material from the flap end to make it
fit, and in the other we did have to drill out the hinge (chose to do this
on the wing) and moved the whole thing over. The wings are suppose to be
perpendicular to the longitudinal axis of the fuselage and if it was a
perfect world the all would be, but I believe we had just enough sweepback
on the wing to cause problems, at least that's my theory. The flap is the
last thing to install when you're doing the wing/fuselage attach stuff,
the rear spar has already been drilled and is fixed, why not leave room
for adjustment if possible.
Hope this helps. :-)
Dan
----------
> From: Tim Lewis <mailcenter.cmet.af.mil!lewis2(at)matronics.com>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Upside down flap hinges(comment)
> Date: Thursday, September 19, 1996 1:07 PM
>
> Dan Boudro wrote:
>
> > Tim,
> > I'd drill them out. HINT! Leave some way to move the flap laterally
till
> > after the wings are mounted on the fuselage and you can position them.
> > You could even drill the hinge out then and reposition it so the flap
is
> > in the correct position.
> >
> > Dan Boudro
>
> Dan, what's the reason for your suggestion to keep lateral movement
> potential in the flaps? One of the guys at Van's suggested I move the
> flaps outboard 1/16" from what the plans show to avoid possible
> interference with the fuselage when the wings are attached (he said
> this has happened on other RV-6s). Is that what you're referring to?
> Any insight from the list on this?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Tim
> -------------------------------
> Capt Tim Lewis
> Kelly AFB, TX 210-442-4237
> lewis2(at)mailcenter.cmet.af.mil
> or capntim(at)aol.com
> COML ASEL IA
> RV-6AQ #60023
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tom Martin <fairlea(at)execulink.com> |
> I saw a very nice 6a the other day with one of those rather large ELT
> whips on the fuselage top just behind the cabin. It had a rubber,
> cone-shaped base and a tight coil (5.8 * 2 inches) half way up what
> seemed to be 1.5 to 2 feet of wire. This is supposed to be a 200 mph
> airplane, I'm hoping there are alternatives.
> David Fried
> dfried(at)dehavilland.ca
Hi Dave.
I installed my ELT anntenna in the baggage compartment with just the tip
sticking up into canopy area. It is shielded with a grommet. This was done
with the manufacturers blessing
Tom Martin
RV-4
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jerryflyrv(at)village.yvv.com> |
| Subject: | Re: close edge rivets.. |
cpeedy.ENET.dec.com!walsh(at)matronics.com wrote:
>
> This week's little project for me is to come up with a good method for
> squeezing rivets in tight places ( rudder, elevator etc. ). I've tried
> most of the methods in the archive ( and then some ) except the vise grip
> squeezer mod.
>
> Can you really squeeze a rivet with a vice grip? After exprimenting, I think
> you would have to be Arnold Schwarzeneger to pull this off.
>
> Also, if this fails, does the Tatco no hole yoke work in these areas? I
> heard that it doesn't. It's $125 and so a tad expensive if it goes in the
> tool box never to be used.
>
> thanks
>
> John Walsh(at)ranger.enet.dec.com
Hi John
Below is side view of simple device I used, 1/4" plates shaped to
fit in tight places such as end of ribs, it is kinda like a clothes
pin you clamp over the rivet and then squeeze between the rivet
and the clothes pin rotating point. This is similar to an
idea Randall Henderson posted earlier and it worked well
for me on the end ribs of control surfaces.
X<----Squeeze here with hand squeezer
================"========================= <---- 1/4" Steal plate
( ) " | | <-Rivet |
( ) " _____| |_________| rib
( solid ) <----same height | |
( rod ) " as rivet ___/ \__________________skin
( ) "
================"========================= <---- 1/4" Steal plate
" X<----Squeeze here
^ <-- rubber band wrapped around two steal plates
just to hold together
--
Jerry Springer RV-6 N906GS First flight July 14, 1989 :-) Hillsboro, OR
jerryflyrv(at)village.yvv.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mitch Faatz <mfaatz(at)sagenttech.com> |
| Subject: | RV Builders' Yeller Pages (NEED INFO) |
http://www.aftershock.org\mitch.htm
And of COURSE it will get better! I have lots of building pictures I
will be scanning in over the next couple of weeks, so expect them soon!
--------------------- cut here
--------------------------------------------------------------
Mitch Faatz mfaatz(at)sagenttech.com San Jose, CA
RV-6AQME N727MF (reserved)
HS and VS done, almost finished with rudder
>----------
>From: aol.com!Vanremog(at)matronics.com[SMTP:aol.com!Vanremog(at)matronics.com]
>Sent: Friday, September 20, 1996 5:11 AM
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: RV Builders' Yeller Pages (NEED INFO)
>
>OK Matt, you talked me into it.
>
>To all you of you fine folks presently on the list, this is an urgent call
>for info. If you have a personal website or you know of other websites
>featuring good pictures of RVs, pictures of yourselves naked with an RV in
>the background, info regarding building RVs, info alluding to thinking about
>building RVs and/or even just sampled sounds of RVs flying overhead, please
>send the URL info to me directly at vanremog(at)aol.com, ASAP. I will compile
>and post the URL listing as an addendum to the RV Builders' Yeller Pages. If
>you have phone numbers of other sources of supply that you think may benefit
>your fellow builders, send that too.
>
>Maybe by the end of Sept I can debut the New Yeller Pages and send the Old
>Yeller Pages off to the pound.
>
>Gary VanRemortel
>vanremog(at)aol.com
>N1GV (having a baffling time and getting close)
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
> I saw a very nice 6a the other day with one of those rather large ELT
> whips on the fuselage top just behind the cabin. It had a rubber,
> cone-shaped base and a tight coil (5.8 * 2 inches) half way up what
> seemed to be 1.5 to 2 feet of wire. This is supposed to be a 200 mph
> airplane, I'm hoping there are alternatives.
What you are describing sounds like the ACK ELT antenna. Many RVs I've
seen have this ELT with the antenna base mounted on top of one of the
baggage cpt. side cover panels. The antenna just bendse up towards the
center against the inside of the plexi. I'm sure you could use some
wire ties to make sure it doesn't touch metal, but in a wreck, anything
can happen.
Anyhow, that's what I plan to do with mine.
Randall Henderson, RV-6
randall(at)edt.com
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MiDiBu <midibu(at)hsv.mindspring.com> |
>OK, time for more questions. Feel free to emil me the answers direct if
>easier.
>
>Between the Lycoming 320 and 360 on an RV-6(A)
>1.) What is the difference in performance cruise at 75% power?
>
>2.) What is the difference in rate of climb at gross?
>
>3.) What is the realistic ceiling at gross?
Your timing is perfect. Check out Chuck Berthe's article in the recent
Kitplanes (October).
My mail reader had a hiccup while I was composing my response to your
question, so I'm repeating it.
He expained the trade-offs very well. In my opinion, the O-360 with a
constant speed prop is a very good way to go.
And again, if there are multiple responses from me, my experience of owning
an engine was with an IO-360-A1A which was attached to a Mooney M20F. It
was an excellent engine except for occasions where an exhaust valve would
stick. I used Marvel Mystery oil to fix it, but I never liked using a
product with a name like that in an aircraft engine.
>
>Thanks for the answers!
>For Randy -RV-6A
>Cleaning the garage and saving the money!
>
Mike Weller
Cleaned the garage, working on the workshop/hamshack
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Timothy J. Etherington" <tjetheri(at)cca.rockwell.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Pneumatic squeezer problem |
I am a real rookie builder, but I must reply to Randall's post about the rivet
squeezer. I have many times already (still building the HS &VS) that I was glad
I was able to slowly set the plunger before the force built up. To get REALLY
square rivets set with the squeezer requires it to be right on the rivet. It is
much better to see how it is on before pressing the trigger all the way and
setting the rivet. I am sure the squeezer you have is designed the same way and
would clean it up as suggested.
Tim Etherington
tjetheri(at)cca.rockwell.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MiDiBu <midibu(at)hsv.mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: quick build wings for RV-8 |
>You wrote:
>>
>It sounds like the only thing your missing before you become totally
>immersed in the empennage is George Orndorff's new RV-8 Tape.
>
>Curtis Hinkley
>RV-8
>
Hello Curtis,
I got the tapes last week.
Initial review... Excellent!
Mike Weller
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott.Fink(at)Microchip.COM (Scott Fink) |
| Subject: | Re: Alternator Light |
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: RV-List: Alternator Light
Internet_Exchange
Date: 9/20/96 2:02 PM
Subj: Alternator Light
.
.
>> LED (Light Emitting Diodes) are "current" devices in that unlike
>> incandescent lamps, the voltage drop across a diode is relatively
>> constant irrespective of the light output. If you check out LED specs,
>> you'll find that they have a "maximum" or "operating" current rating;
>> for most single junction devices is 20 Milliamperes. Hence, a resistor
>> on the order of 470 ohms will produce a 12v/470ohm = 25mA current.
>> Right in the ballpark. The voltage drop for a single device is about
>> 1.7 volts. The LED arrays you see on the backs of cars will hook
>> several devices in series (6 devices = approx 10.2 volts) so the
>> resistor drops to 2/0.020 or 100 ohms. For intermittent duty (like
>> a third stop light) an overdrive value of 30 to 50 milliamperes would
>> probably get you a lot more light without killing the LEDs.
>
>Please correct me if i'm wrong, but, a silicon semiconductor junction
>voltage drop is 0.7 volts, unless resistance is placed internally, or if
>there are two junctions in series. This voltage drop should remain
>constant until the current is high enough to cause junction breakdown
>(failure).
>Fred, RV-6A
>Good question! I've not really paid any attention to the differences but
>a quick look through my engineering texts suggest the following description
>of light emitting diodes. First, they are single junction p-n devices
>and they are biased in the forward direction. The silicon rectifier
>diode has been optomized for the lowest possible voltage drop and only
>special devices like Schottky rectifiers have lower than 0.6 volts
>per junction drops. For a light emitting diode to produce light, an
>avalanch condition has to exist. I would loosly describe "avalanch"
>as the ripping of electrons from the outer shells of an atom an
>allowing them to fall back into place. The rip-out energy is provided
>by our external application of power. When the electrons fall back,
>due to the nature of the atomic structure, they give up their excess
>energy
>in the form of some color of light. Unlike zeners which avalanch in the
>reverse bias modes on the order of several volts, an LED's structure
>suggest a very INEFFICIENT rectifier that has been optomize for light
>output . . . hence a somewhat increased drop in the forward direction.
>Bob . . .
>AeroElectric Connection
"a somewhat increased drop in the forward direction." as Bob says
below is an understatement. Most LEDs have a markedly higher forward
voltage drop than 0.7v. Above 2.0 volts is common, and a quick
perusual of my DigiKey catalog shows some as high as 2.8v!
The main thing to keep in mind is the current put through the device.
A dropping resistor is necessary to limit the current through the LED,
as noted in the original post.
"overdriving" for intermittant periods is NOT recommended as it will
probably not destroy the device immediatly, but these are not light
bulbs, and reliability will be affected. The best way to handle the
brightness issue is to use one with enough brightness at its rated max
forward current, and to derate a little bit for life, especially in an
aircraft where starting and various nasty spikes exist. Operating too
close to the max current limit could cause one of those spikes to take
out the LED.
Scott Fink
RV6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MiDiBu <midibu(at)hsv.mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: flight control configuration? |
>Mike Weller wrote:
>>
>> Do you fly an RV-6 from the left side of the airplane with your left hand on
>> a stick and your right hand on the throttle?
>
>Well...yeah. But why is this such a big deal? Looks the same as the
>Cessnas I started in, and like the Beech Duchess I got my ME rating in
>(except the right hand was on a quadrant rather than a vernier). My
>flight instructor advised me to learn to fly either way, as a CFI
>usually flies right hand on stick/yoke and left on throttle.
>PatK - RV-6A - My painter went to Reno for the races - and didn't take
>me :(
>
Thanks Pat,
I agree. I'm a CFII with time in a lot of different airplanes. I've paid
my dues in the right seat of many types of airplanes teaching people how to
fly. It may seem weird, but it seems to me that being a first officer on an
A-320 with the stick in my right hand would seem more comfortable than being
the captain in the left seat with the stick in my left hand. The same holds
true for a -6.
I learned to fly in a J-3 30 years ago. I've flown Piper Pacers from both
seats and never had a problem flying the airplane, but never felt
comfortable in either seat. You just do what you have to do.
Further, when faced with a strong 90 degree cross-wind landing, I have
always felt more comfortable landing with the wind to the left of the
airplane, regardless of the seat I was flying from.
It's all in the eye of the beholder.
Mike Weller
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BestBillO(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: flight control configuration? |
Mike,
Reference your question about flying from the left or right side:
I put brakes on the right side, too, so I could fly from BOTH sides,
depending on my mood. Best of both worlds! Seems like 2 airplanes. After
many years of right hand flying military aircraft, I've actually come to
prefer the left side, but I enjoy switching seats frequently.
Bill Orcutt
RV-6A, N911RV
BestBillO(at)AOL.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jcimino(at)jcimino.microserve.com (Jim Cimino) |
Just wanted to let the people waiting and wondering when the RV-8 wing will
be available the latest guess. I e-mailed Ken the other day to ask about
some items missing on my list of parts for the RV-8 emp. He said that us
people who have ordered the wings will soon get a card in the mail asking if
you want to wait for the whole wing kit to be available, or would you like
to receive the parts to build the ailerons, flaps, ect., now. They want us
people who are done with the emps to keep building. But if they are going
to go through all that trouble, I don't think the wing kits are going to be
available anytime soon.
Jim Cimino
RV-8 sn80039
jcimino(at)jcimino.microserve.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Alternator Light |
| From: | Mike Kukulski <kukulski(at)indirect.com> |
To Bob Nuckolls and others on this thread:
Recent message on the list:
>The silicon rectifier
> diode has been optomized for the lowest possible voltage drop and only
> special devices like Schottky rectifiers have lower than 0.6 volts
> per junction drops. For a light emitting diode to produce light, an
> avalanch condition has to exist. I would loosly describe "avalanch" as
> the ripping of electrons from the outer shells of an atom an allowing
> them to fall back into place. The rip-out energy is provided by our
> external application of power. When the electrons fall back, due to
> the nature of the atomic structure, they give up their excess energy
> in the form of some color of light. Unlike zeners which avalanch in the
> reverse bias modes on the order of several volts....
My eyes have rolled back WHITE!
You all are losing me with this quantum physics approach to RV electrical
systems. I've got BS and MS degrees in engineering (not EE, though) and
am not completely stupid - just electrically challenged, if you will.
I've read AeroElectric Connection cover to cover, and while I found it to
be a very detailed discussion of electrical theory (i.e, how I spent my
summer as an electron), it did not answer my primary question - how do I
best install my electrical system. I'm talking the nuts and bolts
mechanics of it, not designing a schematic. For that matter,I see the
wiring schematics offered by Van and Bingelis as equally useful as that
in AEC.
I acknowledge Bob Nuckolls' expertise in this area; and print out almost
everything he has covered on this list, but this still is just not
completing the picture. I really just want to install a basic electrical
system to power my avionics and lights without becoming an electrical
engineer. How about an foot bone connected to the ankle bone level
description?
I will talk to Bob offline to get my particulars ironed out; addressed
the list in case others out there might be scratching their heads like me
over this latest LED theory discussion.
Help us Obi-Wan Nuckolls, you are our only hope!
Mike Kukulski (kukulski(at)indirect.com)
RV-4 N96MK, painting the wings (not as much fun as I thought it would be!)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
| Subject: | Re: Pneumatic squeezer problem |
> I am a real rookie builder, but I must reply to Randall's post about the rivet
> squeezer. I have many times already (still building the HS &VS) that I was
glad
> I was able to slowly set the plunger before the force built up. To get REALLY
> square rivets set with the squeezer requires it to be right on the rivet. It
is
> much better to see how it is on before pressing the trigger all the way and
> setting the rivet. I am sure the squeezer you have is designed the same way
and
> would clean it up as suggested.
>
> Tim Etherington
> tjetheri(at)cca.rockwell.com
Yes, Tim, you are correct, I do the same thing. I think I might have
misread his problem, and also mis-remembered my OWN technique. I do
"feather" the plunger while getting it centered on the rivet as you do,
and occaisonally also try to "feather" the rivet to the proper shop head
size.
What I thought might be happening was what happens to me when I have the
squeezer set too tight, or "over center". If you do that, it may not
want to set the rivet at first, but when it does, it will happen quickly
and mash it flat.
Anyhow, thanks for the correction. Not bad for a "rookie" :-)
Randall Henderson, RV-6
randall(at)edt.com
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Chandler" <mauser(at)Claris.COM> |
| Subject: | Re: Alternator Light |
> I want to develop an LED array for panel flood lighting on airplanes.
Heh, speaking of old threads. I think we came to the conclusion that to
adjust the brightness, since you can't do it with a dimmer on an LED, is to
feed a square wave through the LEDs and change the pulse width for brightness.
--
"Wait a minute, you expect us innocent children to climb up dangerous
scaffolding and paint naked people all over a church? We'll do it!!"
-- Yakko Warner, Animaniacs
"Yeah, I've got ADD, you wanna make something of.... oooh, cool. Look!"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan Boudro <dboudro(at)nmia.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Pneumatic squeezer problem |
Bill,
There must be something wrong with the squeezer throttle. I bought a
Pneumatic squeezer from Cleveland and you can smash a hair on an egg
shell with it. Get one of the local shops that rebuild pneumatic tools
to take a look at it. I lent mine to a friend in CA and he keeps calling
wanting to buy it, I'm wondering if I'll have to take a trip out there to
get it back! I'll never try to build another AC w/o it. :-)
Dan Boudro
RV-4 N9167Z
Albuquerque, NM
dboudro(at)nmia.com
On Thu, 19 Sep 1996, William Costello wrote:
> Hi Folks,
>
> I bought a rebuilt Chicago Pneumatic squeezer from Jerry
> What's-his-name in Michigan quite a while back. Started to 'practice'
> with it a while ago and I am having a devil of a time trying to tease
> the sets closed prior to applying full pressure to set the rivet. It
> tends to do nothing and then zip closed and really maul the rivet.
>
> I spoke with Jerry at Oshkosh at his booth and he seemed less than
> enthusiastic about helping me with the problem. Say something? Do any
> of you guys have any ideas? Would sure appreciate them.
>
> By the way, for those of you getting the panel pix, they went into the
> mail early this morning (Thursday -- 19th).
>
> Best regards,
>
> Bill Costello
> --
>
> Bill Costello | bcos(at)ix.netcom.com | Chicago | 312-445-1246
> Building RV-6 | Reserved N97WC
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan Boudro <dboudro(at)nmia.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Alternator Light |
The EI digital meter Van sells does have low and high voltage
annunciation (i.e. lights).
Dan Boudro
RV-4 N9167Z
Albuquerque, NM
dboudro(at)nmia.com
> >
> > No instrumentation either digital or analog is a substitute for
> > active, low voltage annunciation. Aviation history is replete
> > with stories where the writer says, " . . then the panel went
> > dark . . ." or " . . . pressed the mic button and nothing happened."
> > MOST of these cases involve silent failure of an alternator that
> > went un-noticed until things started dying. The 13.0 lv monitor
> > I described earlier will light the light in seconds after an
> > alternator shuts down.
> >
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gil(at)rassp.hac.com (Gil Alexander) |
| Subject: | Re: Pneumatic squeezer problem |
*** snip ***
>One thing that helps a LOT is that I have an adjustable plunger that
>screws in and out like the Tatco. This does not come with the tool, but
>I seem to remember someone mentioning a source for them on the list a
>long time ago (check the archives). As I recall they were pretty
>spendy. I have a friend who is a toolmaker who made one for me. I
>highly recommend getting something like this if you can do so at a
>reasonable price. Maybe someone else knows of a source.
US Industrial 1-800-521-4800 or (313) 455-3388 (for our non-US listers)
Part # 5052ADJ --- $62 in 1995 catalog
... must be used with C-yokes with < 1 inch base.
... this price isn't so bad when the average yoke from Avery is
over $100 -- and he's cheaper than the rest. A commercial machine shop
around here won't even start their lathe for $60!!
... Gil (uses spacers instead) Alexander
gil(at)rassp.hac.com
>
>Randall Henderson, RV-6
>randall(at)edt.com
>http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: pitot mounting screws; towbar |
<< I just mounted a salvaged heated pitot tube (looks good), but the four
screws that mount the pitot to the streamline tubing mount (homemade)
aren't too pretty. These are 6-40 flat-head screws, 1/4" long, and seem
not to be stocked by anyone in the world, including a couple of A&P
friends. Does anyone out there know of a source? >>
Richard-
Try Olanders (see the RV Builders' Old Yeller Pages) I think they would have
them.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | EBundy2620(at)aol.com |
I'm setting up an 032-D1A for fixed pitch operation. The engine comes
equipped for CS, and I've punched out the front plug, punched a hole in the
back plug and I'm not sure how to put the new front plug in. It slides in
with no resistance. The plug is convex, and I' wondering if I'm supposed to
whack it on the crown to "flatten" it out and make it seat. That isn't real
appealing as I can't figure out a way to torque it, and the idea of 100 psi
of oil blasting into my spinner isn't real appealing :( I plan on talking to
Lycoming next week, I just wondered if anyone knew anything about it before I
do.
According to the April '95 RVator on the subject, you're supposed to "Install
a new plug in the front of the crank". Thanks a lot. It also mentions that
you're supposed to remove the CS oil line at the front of the case and plug
the case. Any idea why? If you leave it hooked up won't the oil just
circulate in the crank? And if you do disconnect it and plug the front of
the case, won't oil contine to pump itself out the tube?
Thanks for the ideas on the ELT antenna. I mounted it on the horizontal
flange above the access panel and gently curved it to follow the contour of
the sliding canopy. Looks nice. I'm still not sure where I'm going to mount
the unit yet.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | EBundy2620(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: ELT's and antennas |
<< Ed,
You're building a six, right? I'd try to mount the ELT between the front
spar and battery box. Especially if you are going to use a wood prop, you
need to get the CG as far forward as possible. I put mine in the bagggage
compartment and now regret that I did. Also, if you fabricate a suitable
bracket, the .040" belly skin with all of those stiffners would be a pretty
solid mounting place.
I thought about that too. I was planning on putting my comm and xpdr
antennas there, and was also trying to keep from running more wires from
front to back. The little bugger is *heavy* though, and would definately
limit my baggage capability by a couple of pounds back there. I even thought
about mounting it ON the battery box, but decided against that.
from a "radiation" standpoint, this is not the best location. My thinking
was, that in a crash, that the antenna could be wiped off the bottom or the
top (roll over) of the airplane, rendering the ELT useless and that in the
cockpit, the chances of the antennas survivability would be best.
That makes sense, plus the unit has a "mobile" antenna as well (assuming I'm
in condition to utilize it).
I mounted my comm antenna in the same location, right below the fuel
selector valve. This location also has the advantage in that, if the panel
mount comm quits working, you could reach over and disconnect the BNC
connector and hook up another antenna lead from a hand held comm.
Excellent idea.
I think it is generally recommended that there be a least 24" between
radiating antennas. Also, if the Xpnder ant. is on the centerline it might
Hmm. Do you know how much skin radius is ideal? i.e. how close to an edge
or corner of the skin?
Thanks
Ed Bundy
ebundy2620(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Slmandel(at)aol.com |
Hi Everyone,
Kristi (my wife) and I (Scott) are new RV builders. We took Avery's class
last weekend and got so excited we put down a down payment on an RV-6. We
can't wait to get our kit, but there's lots to do until then. Work Bench,
tools, compressor, etc.
We understand there is an EAA chapter in Farmers Branch, Texas, if anyone has
information on when they meet we'd love to have it. Hope to hear from you all
soon. If you want to send a private messsage it's slmandel(at)aol.com.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JamesCone(at)aol.com |
I have had a lot of requests from foreign RV builders wanting to know the
price of a subscription to Van's Air Force, Tri-State Wing Newsletter. A
subscription for Canadians is $8.00 per year and $10.00 per year for all
other countries. This added cost just covers the cost of extra postage and
the envelopes required for foreign mail. A U.S. subscription is $5.00 per
year.
All of you who sent me your addresses and said that you wanted to subscribe,
your newsletters are on the way. The October isssue is at the printers and
will be in the mail soon.
Jim Cone, Editor
Van's Air Force Tri-State Wing Newsletter
422 Savannah Ridge Drive
St. Charles, MO 63303
jamescone(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jmbrown(at)ihighway.net (John M. Brown) |
| Subject: | ANNOUNCEMENT RHV-LIST is OPEN |
lmcgee(at)habeas.corp.sgi.com, help(at)avweb.com, 72066.57(at)CompuServe.COM,
reo(at)netcom.netcom.com
NOTICE NOTICE NOTICE NOTICE
Ok by popular request I have built a Mailing list for
discussion of any and ALL issues related to Reid-Hillview
Airport (RHV). I ask that we keep this lists signal to noise
ratio HIGH (Good Signal!) Please do not post to this list unless
it has something to do with RHV Airport.
The Web Site will be available shortly.. www.rhv.org is being registered
, funded ($100 to InterNIC) and hosted on one of my web servers.
There will be an annoucement on this as soon as InterNIC gets me the domain.
-----------------------HOW TO SUBSCRIBE TO THE LIST---------------------
READ THIS AND FOLLOW IT!
Send an eMail to: majordomo(at)mustang.ihighway.net
Subject:
Message Body: subscribe rhv-list
For Example
From: jmbrown(at)ihighway.net
Subject:
subscribe rhv-list jmbrown(at)ihighway.net
If you have problems please send me email, jmbrown(at)ihighway.net, with
a subject line of RHV-LIST PROBLEM
Spread the word to anyone else that is involved with aviation.....
--------------------IMPORTANT------------------------
READ and K E E P the email that you get back from the mailserver
telling you that you have been added. It will give you IMPORTANT commands
on how to get off the list, where to get the digest, etc.....
Hope this helps keep our Airport OPEN AND GOING!!!!
jmbrown(at)ihighway.net
John M. Brown
Co-Founder
iHighway.net, Inc.
Business Internet Services
N610JB RV-6 PP-ASEL-IA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John McMahon <rv6(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Pneumatic squeezer problem |
Bob Skinner wrote:
>
> >I bought a rebuilt Chicago Pneumatic squeezer from Jerry
> >What's-his-name in Michigan quite a while back. Started to 'practice'
> >with it a while ago and I am having a devil of a time trying to tease
> >the sets closed prior to applying full pressure to set the rivet. It
> >tends to do nothing and then zip closed and really maul the rivet.
> >Best regards, Bill Costello
>
> Bill, Do you have experience using other squeezers so you can compare
> operation. If not, it may be that you just have to develope a technique. I
> did bend the trigger on mine so it was in a more "operable" position. You
> may want to call Bob Avery and see if he can give you some advice or
> possibly re-build it for you.
> Bob Skinner RV-6 BSkinner(at)krvn.com
LOOK OUT FOR JERRY,HE SELLS ALOT OF NOT SOOOO GOOD AIR TOOLS,BEEN THERE
DONE,DONE THAT!!!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jerryflyrv(at)village.yvv.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Pneumatic squeezer problem |
John McMahon wrote:
>
> Bob Skinner wrote:
> >
> > >I bought a rebuilt Chicago Pneumatic squeezer from Jerry
> > >What's-his-name in Michigan quite a while back. Started to 'practice'
> > >with it a while ago and I am having a devil of a time trying to tease
> > >the sets closed prior to applying full pressure to set the rivet. It
> > >tends to do nothing and then zip closed and really maul the rivet.
> > >Best regards, Bill Costello
> >
> > Bill, Do you have experience using other squeezers so you can compare
> > operation. If not, it may be that you just have to develope a technique.
I
> > did bend the trigger on mine so it was in a more "operable" position. You
> > may want to call Bob Avery and see if he can give you some advice or
> > possibly re-build it for you.
> > Bob Skinner RV-6 BSkinner(at)krvn.com
> LOOK OUT FOR JERRY,HE SELLS ALOT OF NOT SOOOO GOOD AIR TOOLS,BEEN THERE
> DONE,DONE THAT!!!!!
Be nice if you guys would at least make it clear who Jerry What's-his-
name is. (-:
Jerry
--
Jerry Springer RV-6 N906GS First flight July 14, 1989 :-) Hillsboro, OR
jerryflyrv(at)village.yvv.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kevin lane <kevinlane(at)sprintmail.com> |
| Subject: | o-320 fuel pumps |
I have located an O-320 D2J from a 172 upgrade with 825hrs SN for $9400.
Apparently the engine was very well cared for. Of course it needs a fuel
pump. Do these ball park numbers sound right? Gears (if missing) $375,
shaft $75, machining $250, fuel pump $250? So we're talking $1000+ for a
fuel pump? Does $10400 sound worth it vs. the $17000+ to go new?
Everyone seems to forget the time value of money in their calculations,
i.e. that $17000 engine isn't earning any interest!
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV Builders' Yeller Pages (NEED INFO) |
16 YEARS OF THE RV-ATOR book
(300+ Page compilation of past RV-ator technical articles since 1980)
Easy Publishing
328 Luscombe Dr
Los Lunas, NM 87031
505 865-3466
PFPA(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | airport home For Sale near Albuquerque |
FOR SALE
House with attached hangar on Mid Valley Airpark 20 miles south of
Albuquerque, NM. and 4 miles from the interstate.
1/2 acre land
house = 1960 square feet
hangar = +/- 1400 square feet
The neighborhood
Taxi from your driveway to a 4200' lighted paved runway about 100 yards
away. Mid Valley airport is an established aviation community containing
about 50 homes on the north and central portions of the airport and a few
commercial operators on the south end including a couple mechanics, fuel
service and an active EAA group.
The house
Ranch style framed home with brick front and stucco sides and back. 3
bedrooms, 2 1/2 baths, large kitchen, family room, living room, utility
rooms. Hangar/workshop is drywalled,well lighted and insulated (except for
roll up doors). Forced air natural gas heat and hot water, air
conditioning. All appliances including built in central vacuum system.
Private septic system and well. Large fenced yard. Southern frontage. Very
efficient home with low utility bills.
$160,000
For sale by owner. For more information please call:
Andy Gold
328 Luscombe Dr
Mid Valley Airpark
Los Lunas, NM 87031
505 865-3466
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dieck(at)apexcomm.net (Robert Dieck) |
| Subject: | Governor / Filter cutout |
OK been lurking, Now I have a question. I'm working on the firewall of my
6a, got vans predrilled kit with the gov / filter cutout. The kit came with
paperwork for the rv-4. The 4 has a different firewall than the 6. I need to
know what side of the recess box is the top?? the flat side or the tapered
side? It appears that the tapered side goes down to make clearance for the
battery box. But as my brain starts going over this I start to thing that it
belongs the other way around. Thats what I get for thinking (or not).
Bob Dieck
Wausau Wi USA
Rv6A Starting fuse. kit
Robert/Tammie Dieck
dieck(at)apexcomm.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mccarthy(at)bconnex.net (sherald mccarthy) |
Welcome aboard!
I'm in a similar situation.
Sherald McCarthy
mccarthy(at)bconnex.net
(anticipation)
>Hi Everyone,
>
> Kristi (my wife) and I (Scott) are new RV builders. We took Avery's class
>last weekend and got so excited we put down a down payment on an RV-6. We
>can't wait to get our kit, but there's lots to do until then. Work Bench,
>tools, compressor, etc.
>
>We understand there is an EAA chapter in Farmers Branch, Texas, if anyone has
>information on when they meet we'd love to have it. Hope to hear from you all
>soon. If you want to send a private messsage it's slmandel(at)aol.com.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ammeterj(at)seanet.com (John Ammeter) |
>I'm setting up an 032-D1A for fixed pitch operation. The engine comes
>equipped for CS, and I've punched out the front plug, punched a hole in the
>back plug and I'm not sure how to put the new front plug in. It slides in
>with no resistance. The plug is convex, and I' wondering if I'm supposed to
>whack it on the crown to "flatten" it out and make it seat. That isn't real
>appealing as I can't figure out a way to torque it, and the idea of 100 psi
>of oil blasting into my spinner isn't real appealing :( I plan on talking to
>Lycoming next week, I just wondered if anyone knew anything about it before I
>do.
>
With the hole in the rear plug the only 'pressure' you'll find at the front
plug will be the pressure present in the crankcase. Since the crankcase is
vented to the atmosphere the effective present is zero. Yes, you 'whack' it
on the crown to flatten it; I used a wide punch and a large hammer to do the
chore. Oh, yeah, smear some orange RTV around the edge of the plug before
installing it.
>According to the April '95 RVator on the subject, you're supposed to "Install
>a new plug in the front of the crank". Thanks a lot. It also mentions that
>you're supposed to remove the CS oil line at the front of the case and plug
>the case. Any idea why? If you leave it hooked up won't the oil just
>circulate in the crank? And if you do disconnect it and plug the front of
>the case, won't oil contine to pump itself out the tube?
>
Remove the oil line from the engine; install a plug in the front hole. You
will also want to remove the governor adapter from the rear of the engine
and put a plate over the opening. Save the oil line. It would cost you
about $125 to replace it if you should ever want to install a CS prop.
John Ammeter
ammeterj(at)seanet.com
3233 NE 95th St
Seattle WA, 98115 USA
RV-6 N16JA
First flight August 1990
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Lewis <lewis2(at)mailcenter.cmet.af.mil> |
| Subject: | Re: Pitot tube screws, Warren Gretz's Pitot mount |
Somebody asked about screws for heated pitot tubes. For the Pitot tube
w/o integral static (AN-5812), the correct screw (according to my info) is
the 1/4" long 6-32 screw, old AN515 series (coarse thread). The new
nomenclature as best I can tell is MS35206-226. Wicks has these for 15
cents each (page 209 of the 1996 catalog).
If you have the AN-5814 (heated pitot tube with integral static source)
the correct screw (again, going by my info) is the MS35207-259. This is
a 10-32 screw, 1/4" long. Wicks doesn't have these in their catalog, but
they do have the 5/16" version (MS35207-260). They are 8 cents each. I
need to get 4 of these myself, as I've marred the heads of the ones that
came with my pitot tube (the screws are sort of soft, and I was sort of a
klutz).
Wicks phone number is 800-221-9425.
By the way, I just finished installing a pitot mount from Warren Gretz.
It was easy to install, and looks good. I got the chromed mount. I had
one small glitch, when one of the screw holes wasn't quite where it
needed to be to match my pitot tube. Warren offered to send me a new
one, or let me drill the hole bigger. He told me if I opted to drill the
hole bigger and the drilling cracked the chrome finish he'd send me a new
mount. Well, I enlarged the hole with a Dremel tool rotary file. It was
easy, it didn't crack the chrome at all, and the whole thing is now
installed. Warren has been VERY good to work with... prompt, courteous
customer service, quality product, instructions that make sense (now
that's a pleasant change ;^) ).
I encourage anybody who is installing a pitot tube such as this
to get the wire type tube benders. I got mine for $9 from Avery.
The wire bender makes bending the tubing a simple task.
Hope this helps.
tim
-------------------------------
Capt Tim Lewis
Kelly AFB, TX 210-442-4237
lewis2(at)mailcenter.cmet.af.mil
or capntim(at)aol.com
COML ASEL IA
RV-6AQ #60023
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | EBundy2620(at)aol.com |
I need to re-make my fuel line that runs from the electric fuel pump to the
firewall fitting. Is there any reason not to make it out of soft copper tube
instead of aluminum? I can get the copper tube locally, but not the
aluminum.
Thanks,
Ed Bundy
ebundy2620(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jmbrown(at)ihighway.net (John M. Brown) |
| Subject: | Reid-Hillview Airport Please Read This |
I don't know how many of our RV-List memebers are outside of the BayArea,
but we in the BayArea are faced with a MAJOR crisis, the potential closing
of our G/A airport. Reid-Hillview.
I know that this may NOT be the place to post such message, but I hope that you
will understand that we have about 8 weeks until they vote on this issue and
we need to get the word out to as many people as possible.
Reid-Hillview Airport will be the site of AOPA 96!!! This airport is one
of the SAFEST airports nationwide, and has over 16,000 operations per month.
For more information please subscribe to the RHV-List by
sending a message to majordomo(at)mustang.ihighway.net with the body of your
message containing
subscribe RHV-List
Thanks..
PS: Matt I hope I don't upset to many people.! Hope the memory is helping
out your machine.:
jmbrown
________________________________________________________________________________
Thanks to those who responded to my questions regarding the engine (160 vs
180 hp.) I went out and bought him the Oct. Kitplane Mag (only took 3 hours
of scouring the town to find a copy) and faxed the article to him. (He's an
airline pilot, and is currently flying a run for a couple days between TX and
Mexico.) He said the article answered most of his questions. Next, gotta
get a new garage door!
For Randy
Still cleaning garage!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | teetime(at)flinthills.com |
Howdy,
Has anyone tried a chisel in places like the leading edge to out on
the tip? I can't seem to get in there.
Tim
RV-4 empennage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | OrndorffG(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Governor / Filter cutout |
Bob,
The tapered end is the top....George Orndorff
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Landoll harmonic balancer |
Anybody out there using Mark Landoll's harmonic balancer, and how do you like
it!
I am considering running it on my SIX in combination with an O-360 and Prince
P-Tip.
Regards,
Bill Mahoney
Sherman, CT
RV-6
N747W
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Lewis <lewis2(at)mailcenter.cmet.af.mil> |
| Subject: | Rolo-Flair operation question |
I have one of the Parker Rolo-Flair tools for making 37 degree flares in
tubing. I'm curious how far others drive the cone into the tubing. The
instructions with my unit say
"Drive cone into tubing until slight resistance is felt -- NO
FURTHER! Reverse handle and tubing will be burnished
automatically."
When I use the unit, I feel resistance as soon as the cone touches the
tubing. I find it difficult to believe I'm supposed to stop at that
point. Am I supposed to drive the cone on down until I feel the increase
in resistance from the tubing expanding against the flare dies?
Thanks,
Tim
-------------------------------
Capt Tim Lewis
Kelly AFB, TX 210-442-4237
lewis2(at)mailcenter.cmet.af.mil
or capntim(at)aol.com
COML ASEL IA
RV-6AQ #60023
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tom Martin <fairlea(at)execulink.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Landoll harmonic balancer |
I have an RV-4 with a 180hp and warnke prop. I am using the harmonic
balancer and it seems to work very well. My engine runs very smooth, with
few vibrations.
Tom Martin
>Anybody out there using Mark Landoll's harmonic balancer, and how do you like
>it!
>I am considering running it on my SIX in combination with an O-360 and Prince
>P-Tip.
>
>Regards,
>Bill Mahoney
>Sherman, CT
>RV-6
>N747W
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Bucking Bars |
Checked with Randy (A/C mechanic and airline pilot). Says basically, you
grind or cut down a bar to the size you need. You just need the bucking bar
big enough to back the rivet. On the ends, he'd cherry rivet them.
Now, if you are really brave, or have had a couple, he has heard of guys
using a penny as a bucking bar in tight areas. (He is not recommending this,
it's more of a joke, but he has heard of it being done.) He'd recommend
taping your finger amd having a couple beers first, then try it on a piece of
aluminim first so you won't wreck your skins.
For Randy
Sooner or later a RV6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: close edge rivets.. |
<< The thin nose squeezer yoke also works quite well. It makes problems
like these almost no-brainers. But since there are relatively few
places where it is needed, you'll have to decide for yourself whether
it's worth the $$ to save some hassle.
Randall Henderson, RV-6
randall(at)edt.com
http://www.edt.com/homewing
>>
And once you have purchased the thin nose squeezer yokes, you just have to
keep building RV's to justify buying them in the first place. :-)
Jim Ayers
LOM M332A RV-3 N47RV Maroon Marauder
RV-4 Maroon Marauder II ??
LesDrag(at)aol.com
Thousand Oaks, Ca. USA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | =?ISO-8859-1?Q?G=D6RAN_NILSSON?= <goran.nilsson(at)almhult.mail.telia.com> |
| Subject: | Re: =?ISO-8859-1?Q?Re:_RV-List:_Tom_Martin_,_Landoll=B4s_harmonic?= |
=?ISO-8859-1?Q?_balancer_?=
--1043395584--638262944-843443477:#1
owner-rv-list(at)matronics.com:
> I have an RV-4 with a 180hp and warnke prop. I am using the harmonic
> balancer and it seems to work very well. My engine runs very smooth, with
> few vibrations.
> Tom Martin
> >Anybody out there using Mark Landoll's harmonic balancer, and how do you like
> >it!
> >I am considering running it on my SIX in combination with an O-360 and Prince
> >P-Tip.
> >
> >Regards,
> >Bill Mahoney
> >Sherman, CT
> >RV-6
> >N747W
> >
> >
>
>
>
--1043395584--638262944-843443477:#1
Hi Tom Martin
You have a harmonic balancer that work very vell and with few vibrations
I have an RV-6 with a Lyc O-360 A4M and Paceetter 200 prop.
I have problems with vibrations from 2350 rpm and abowe.After some
cracks in the spinner backplate,I replaced it with a new, I`m
sure evrything is in track, but the vibrations is still there.
Do you think a harmonic balanser could sole the problem ?
G=F6ran Nilsson
Sweden, SE-XLD
goran.nilsson(at)almhult.mail.telia.com
--1043395584--638262944-843443477:#1--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jack & Diane Mahler <jax(at)brett.reno.nv.us> |
| Subject: | Re: bucking bars |
flinthills.com!teetime(at)matronics.com wrote:
>
> Howdy,
> Has anyone tried a chisel in places like the leading edge to out on
> the tip? I can't seem to get in there.
>
> Tim
> RV-4 empennageYes, it doesn't work well. A chisel has insufficient weight.
Either use a
home made bar, made from stock at a local steel yard, or a no hole narrow tip
yoke on your hand set. Good Luck
Jax RV-6A, building my wings, and loving it.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SENGELHART(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel tank attach nut plates |
I have a situation on my Six fuel tank at the outboard aft corner where I
need to use a #8 dimpled nut plate with either a single foot(2 rivet) or a
nutplate with feet 90 degrees. Many I have spoke to say "Oh sure I've seen
those" but I can't find a source. Can anyone help ??????
Scott Engelhart
RV6A in WI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JERRYWALKER(at)delphi.com |
Rv-list(at)matronics.com,
_ >
>> Do you fly an RV-6 from the left side of the airplane with your left hand
>on
>> a stick and your right hand on the throttle?
I've seen some of the finest fingertip formation in a C-130 being
flown from the left seat as well as in a Lear. A competent pilot can
do it easily from either seat.
___
* UniQWK v4.02* The Windows Mail Reader
'[1;35;40m-=> Delphi Internet Jet v3.012 - (C) PBE
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tom Martin <fairlea(at)execulink.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tom Martin , =?iso-8859-1?Q?Landoll=B4s?= |
harmonic balancer To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>You have a harmonic balancer that work very vell and with few vibrations
>I have an RV-6 with a Lyc O-360 A4M and Paceetter 200 prop.
>I have problems with vibrations from 2350 rpm and abowe.After some
>cracks in the spinner backplate,I replaced it with a new, I`m
>sure evrything is in track, but the vibrations is still there.
>
>Do you think a harmonic balanser could sole the problem ?
>
>G=F6ran Nilsson
>Sweden, SE-XLD
>goran.nilsson(at)almhult.mail.telia.com=20
The balancer might solve your problem. First I would try something else.
There are some maitenance shops here that equipment to measure vibrations
and balance aircraft engine and prop combinations. I am sure that others on
the list are more familiar with this service then I am. This would likely be
less expensive and save 12 Lbs. Hope this helps
Tom Martin RV-4
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | chester razer <crazer(at)egyptian.net> |
I'm beginning to research wood props for an 0-360 on a 6A
and I'd appreciate hearing from those of you who are flying
behind one. The information I'd find most useful would be
from flyers who are 110% satisfied with their prop and also
from those who have had terrible experiences or performance
with their wood prop.
chet razer: installing panel and waiting on engine and
still haven't seen a flying 6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Boudro" <dboudro(at)pop.nmia.com> |
John,
My 0320 came from Lycoming (new :-) :-) :-)) with the front plug
installed. I essentially did nothing to it except shorten the oil dip
stick housing. It does have the AL line running from the case in front to
the rear of the engine, I am assuming this is the same one mentioned and
is for the CS prop. Why would you remove this? Just curious. Should/can
I do this?
Dan Boudro
RV-4
Albuquerque,NM
dboudro(at)nmia.com
----------
> From: John Ammeter <seanet.com!ammeterj(at)matronics.com>
> John Ammeter
> ammeterj(at)seanet.com
> 3233 NE 95th St
> Seattle WA, 98115 USA
> RV-6 N16JA
> First flight August 1990
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)navix.net> |
| Subject: | Mixture controls |
Fellow RVers,
After 315 hours on my six, I've decided to replace my rachet-type mixture
control with a vernier type control. I'm now using the wire end type
fastened on with a "bug nut" to the mixture control arm. At one time, I
purchased the collet wire grip with the idea of using a fork or rod end
bearing for the mixture. The plan was to check the wire for any damage due
to the crimp of the bug nut and, when it was necessary, cut the damaged end
off and install the collet, therby increasing the useful life of the rachet
control.
If I change to a wire type vernier, the wire size is .078" and the collet
is designed for .050", so the above mentioned option will not be available.
I can go ahead and use the "bug nut" method for attaching the wire end to
the mixture control arm.
The other option is to use the vernier with the 10-32 thread and 8 degree
swivel end. (I'm assuming you would want to use the cable with the swivel
end). In this case, I could use a AN665-21R threaded terminal. With this
method, conection to the mixture control arm is with a clevis pin and cotter
pin.
With the wire end control, measurement is not critical, you just cut to
fit. A lot of factory airplanes use the bug nut clamped on a wire. The
threaded end with the fork seems a little more "airworthy" to me but
measurement for length is critical. The price for each is similar.
As I remember, all of the airplanes I've owned have used the bug nut
method and I've never had any problems. What are your opinions and ideas?
Thanks, Bob Skinner RV-6 BSkinner(at)krvn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rolo-Flair operation question |
>When I use the unit, I feel resistance as soon as the cone touches the
>tubing. I find it difficult to believe I'm supposed to stop at that
>point.
Am I supposed to drive the cone on down until I feel the increase
>in resistance from the tubing expanding against the flare dies?
>
Tim; The second resistance is the magic one, not the first.
John D
John Darby RV6 N61764 flying
johnd@our-town.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Tom Martin , =?iso-8859-1?Q?Landoll=B4s__?= |
harmonic balancer To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>>G=F6ran Nilsson
>>Sweden, SE-XLD
>>goran.nilsson(at)almhult.mail.telia.com=20
>
>The balancer might solve your problem. First I would try something else.
>There are some maitenance shops here that equipment to measure vibrations
>and balance aircraft engine and prop combinations. I am sure that others on
>the list are more familiar with this service then I am. This would likely=
be
>less expensive and save 12 Lbs. Hope this helps
>
>Tom Martin RV-4
>
Goran;
Our EAA chapter had a demonstration of this balancer method. Roughly
described, it is a type of strobe light. The guy put a mark on the spinner,
then two vibration sensors on the engine, ran up the engine and his device
indicated where the weight was needed. He put the wts. on the demo. on the
spinner back plate. The demo a/c was one of our chapter members Cessna. The
Cessna owner said it made a very noticeable improvement in the vibration.
The representative of the Co quoted $125.00 for the deed.
Hope this helps.
John D
John Darby RV6 N61764 flying
johnd@our-town.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: bucking bars |
>flinthills.com!teetime(at)matronics.com wrote:
>>
>> Howdy,
>> Has anyone tried a chisel in places like the leading edge to out on
>> the tip? I can't seem to get in there.
>>
>> Tim
Didn't use a chisel, but did use a log splitter. Was going to use an axe
head, but ran across the log splitter before I found my axe. It isn't the
best process in the world, but it did work.
John D
John Darby RV6 N61764 flying
johnd@our-town.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuel tank attach nut plates |
>I have a situation on my Six fuel tank at the outboard aft corner where I
>need to use a #8 dimpled nut plate with either a single foot(2 rivet) or a
>nutplate with feet 90 degrees. Many I have spoke to say "Oh sure I've seen
>those" but I can't find a source. Can anyone help ??????
>
Scott,
Try Aircraft Spruce, 95-96 catalog page 71, labeled as one lug anchor nut
and corner nuts.
John D
John Darby RV6 N61764 flying
johnd@our-town.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: pitot mounting screws; towbar |
>A friend is getting ready to fly his -4 and is looking for a towbar. He
>has a non-swiveling tailwheel. Aircraft Spruce has two tailwheel towbars,
>and I found the phone number for Skyline Aviation in the RV Archives. Does
>anyone have a recommendation?
>
Richard;
The local FBO gave me what he called an old Cessna tow bar. It is very
simple. A tube that has a T-handle on one end, the other end has two tubes
welded into a very narrow Y, at the end of those is a tube welded on that
protrudes to the inside towards each other. The width at the end of the Y
is a little less than my wheel axle bolt. I clip one tube over the bolt
head, spring it apart and clip the other over the nut end of the axle. Then
just tow away! Works fine, I've used it for over two years. It would be
very easy to weld one up. Just make sure that the inside diam. of the tube
is large enough to go over your nut and bolt head.
Hope this helps, or at least gives you some idea.
John D
John Darby RV6 N61764 flying
johnd@our-town.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John McMahon <rv6(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Landoll harmonic balancer |
aol.com!RV6ator(at)matronics.com wrote:
>
> Anybody out there using Mark Landoll's harmonic balancer, and how do you like
> it!
> I am considering running it on my SIX in combination with an O-360 and Prince
> P-Tip.
>
> Regards,
> Bill Mahoney
> Sherman, CT
> RV-6
> N747W
I can say that the solid flywheel did very very good on a rv 4
150 HP WOOD PROP.If you go this route, throw out the hardware
bolt and nuts,and get AN bolt and nuts.The idle smoother,
increase 100 RPM,Best of all,helps foward C.G.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)navix.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel tank attach nut plates |
>I have a situation on my Six fuel tank at the outboard aft corner where I
>need to use a #8 dimpled nut plate with either a single foot(2 rivet) or a
>nutplate with feet 90 degrees. Many I have spoke to say "Oh sure I've seen
>those" but I can't find a source. Can anyone help ??????
>Scott Engelhart RV6A in WI
Scott, I've not seen the type of nut plates that you've described. The
conventional type, 90 degree or single foot, are common. Could you use the
single foot type nutplate by dimpling the two attach holes? This would
space the nutplate away from the dimple for the screw in the spar. If it
didn't space it out far enough, I would think you could grind the dimple on
the spar down a little so the nutplate would fit parallel to the spar. If
this will not work for you, could you make spacers with two #40 holes in
them to space the nutplate out? Bob Skinner RV-6 BSkinner(at)krvn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)navix.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rolo-Flair operation question |
>I have one of the Parker Rolo-Flair tools for making 37 degree flares in
>tubing. I'm curious how far others drive the cone into the tubing. The
>instructions with my unit say
> "Drive cone into tubing until slight resistance is felt -- NO
> FURTHER! Reverse handle and tubing will be burnished
> automatically."
>When I use the unit, I feel resistance as soon as the cone touches the
>tubing. I find it difficult to believe I'm supposed to stop at that
>point. Am I supposed to drive the cone on down until I feel the increase
>in resistance from the tubing expanding against the flare dies?
>Tim Capt Tim Lewis Kelly AFB, TX 210-442-4237 lewis2(at)mailcenter.cmet.af.mil
Tim, Yes, you keep on going. If you quit when you first felt resistance,
you wouldn't have much of a flare. Try to get a feel of the forces needed
as the cone starts the flare and for the next few turns. When you feel an
increase from this resistance, stop and reverse. I think it's a good idea
to practice on some scrap, at first. Also, don't forget to keep the cone
clean and put a little oil on the cone/tube. Don't do it dry. Bob Skinner
RV-6 BSkinner(at)krvn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)navix.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Tom Martin , =?iso-8859-1?Q?Landoll=B4s?= |
harmonic balancer To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>> I have an RV-4 with a 180hp and warnke prop. I am using the harmonic
>> balancer and it seems to work very well. My engine runs very smooth, with
>> few vibrations. =20
>> Tom Martin
>> >Anybody out there using Mark Landoll's harmonic balancer, and how do you
like
>> >it!
>> >I am considering running it on my SIX in combination with an O-360 and
Prince
>> >P-Tip. Regards, Bill Mahoney Sherman, CT RV-6 N747W
=20
>Hi Tom Martin
>You have a harmonic balancer that work very vell and with few vibrations
>I have an RV-6 with a Lyc O-360 A4M and Paceetter 200 prop.
>I have problems with vibrations from 2350 rpm and abowe.After some
>cracks in the spinner backplate,I replaced it with a new, I`m
>sure evrything is in track, but the vibrations is still there.
>Do you think a harmonic balanser could sole the problem ?
>G=F6ran Nilsson Sweden, SE-XLD goran.nilsson(at)almhult.mail.telia.com
Goran, I used the harmonic balancer when I was using a wood prop. In my
particular installation, I felt that it made a very slight improvement. A
dramatic increase in smoothness occured after I had the prop dynamically
balanced (with the Chadwick machine). When I first put my Sensenich metal
prop on, my engine ran very roughly. I had some pitch taken out and while I
was at it, had the prop checked for static balance. It checked out fine. I
then had the prop dynamically balanced and this made a very, very noticable
difference. By the way, we put the Sensenich on a friends 150 hp RV-4 with
conical mounts and he said the prop about shook him out of the cockpit. He
couldn't wait to get back to land. He has been running a dynamically
balanced Prince prop.
This is not to say that you would not receive a benifit from the harmonic
balancer. You move some weight forward but it is kind of an expensive
weight. Also, Larry Vetterman believes that the use of the balancer will
help eleminate broken rings due to the "jerky" firing pulses that are not
dampened out due to the light weight of the wood props. He feels that
chrome cylinder engines are more susceptable to this than those engines with
steel barrel cylinders but either engine will benifit from the additional
weight and balancing offered by the Landoll balancer.
Bob Skinner RV-6 BSkinner(at)krvn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)navix.net> |
>I need to re-make my fuel line that runs from the electric fuel pump to the
>firewall fitting. Is there any reason not to make it out of soft copper tube
>instead of aluminum? I can get the copper tube locally, but not the
>aluminum.
>Thanks, Ed Bundy ebundy2620(at)aol.com
Ed, I've never copper lines on factory birds or homebuilts except for primer
and manifold pressure lines. Don't know the reason why copper wouldn't work
for fuel lines, but it would make me nervous using it when it's not an
accepted practice. Perhaps copper hardens and turns brittle quicker than
aluminum due to vibration?
Bob Skinner RV-6 BSkinner(at)krvn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | EBundy2620(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Rolo-Flair operation question |
<< "Drive cone into tubing until slight resistance is felt -- NO
FURTHER! Reverse handle and tubing will be burnished
automatically."
When I use the unit, I feel resistance as soon as the cone touches the
tubing. I find it difficult to believe I'm supposed to stop at that
point. Am I supposed to drive the cone on down until I feel the increase
in resistance from the tubing expanding against the flare dies? >>
Actually what you're looking for is a fairly pronounced increase in
resistance (above that imposed after the cone enters the tube) when the tube
bottoms out against the dies. Pracitice flairing a piece of tube, then cut
off the flared part, and try it a few times. You'll soon get the feel for
the resistance.
Ed Bundy
ebundy2620(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | EBundy2620(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Mixture controls |
<< The other option is to use the vernier with the 10-32 thread and 8 degree
swivel end. (I'm assuming you would want to use the cable with the swivel
end). In this case, I could use a AN665-21R threaded terminal. With this
method, conection to the mixture control arm is with a clevis pin and cotter
pin.
With the wire end control, measurement is not critical, you just cut to
fit. A lot of factory airplanes use the bug nut clamped on a wire. The
threaded end with the fork seems a little more "airworthy" to me but
measurement for length is critical. The price for each is similar.
As I remember, all of the airplanes I've owned have used the bug nut
method and I've never had any problems. What are your opinions and ideas?
>>
Gee, I'm glad to give *you* some input for a change. :) I opted for the
vernier mixture with the 10-32 end and used a rod end bearing instead of a
fork because it allows a little extra latitude throughout the range of
motion. As far as the length measurement, it's not real critical within
reason. I just used a stock 6' length which was too long for a straight shot
for the panel to the carb; I carefully figured out how much I needed to
"shorten" it and sloped it up genty toward to firewall then downward after it
goes through, then back up to the carb. The cable has a gradual "S" bend in
it, and it could be a lot more severe without causing friction.
It's then a matter of secuing the cable end with a 3/16" clamp, and I also
put a couple wraps of safety wire around the recessed shoulder as insurance.
The bug nuts work well, but I like something a little more substantial on the
mixture.
Ed Bundy
ebundy2620(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | EBundy2620(at)aol.com |
<< With the hole in the rear plug the only 'pressure' you'll find at the
front
plug will be the pressure present in the crankcase. Since the crankcase is
vented to the atmosphere the effective present is zero. Yes, you 'whack' it
on the crown to flatten it; I used a wide punch and a large hammer to do the
chore. Oh, yeah, smear some orange RTV around the edge of the plug before
installing it.
Ahhhh. That makes a lot more sense. So the pressure chamber for the prop is
just between those plugs, and the rear plug just keeps the oil from dumping
back into the crankcase? But then, why does the rear plug need to be pierced
at all for fixed pitch operation?
Remove the oil line from the engine; install a plug in the front hole. You
will also want to remove the governor adapter from the rear of the engine
and put a plate over the opening. Save the oil line. It would cost you
about $125 to replace it if you should ever want to install a CS prop. >>
Is there oil running though that line without the governor? I'd rather not
remove the line or adapter if I don't have to; it's all kind of buried in
there. According to Lycoming you plug the hole in the front of the case, but
they don't say anything about removing the line. I don't know squat about
C/S operations (obviously) and not a whole lot more about aircraft engines
themselves.
I appreciate your input.
Ed Bundy
ebundy2620(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | EBundy2620(at)aol.com |
<< My 0320 came from Lycoming (new :-) :-) :-)) with the front plug
installed. I essentially did nothing to it except shorten the oil dip
stick housing. It does have the AL line running from the case in front to
the rear of the engine, I am assuming this is the same one mentioned and
is for the CS prop. Why would you remove this? Just curious. Should/can
I do this? >>
Dan, according to Lycoming, the front plug has to be removed so you can
peirce the rear plug (inside the crankshaft) to allow oil to run inside. The
RVator has info in the April 95 issue. I just can't figure out how to
install the new plug, or why the oil line has to be removed.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | EBundy2620(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel tank attach nut plates |
<< I have a situation on my Six fuel tank at the outboard aft corner where I
need to use a #8 dimpled nut plate with either a single foot(2 rivet) or a
nutplate with feet 90 degrees. Many I have spoke to say "Oh sure I've seen
those" but I can't find a source. Can anyone help ??????
>>
Yep, page 49 of Van's accessory catalog. MS21055-L08 (rt. angle) MS21071-L08
(single leg). I'm sure ACS carries them too.
Ed Bundy
ebundy2620(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Leo Davies <leo(at)icn.su.OZ.AU> |
| Subject: | Re: Governor / Filter cutout |
The tapered side goes at the top. I installed mine with taper down (looked
logical) but it aint so.
Leo Davies
6A fuselage forward top stuff.
>OK been lurking, Now I have a question. I'm working on the firewall of my
>6a, got vans predrilled kit with the gov / filter cutout. The kit came with
>paperwork for the rv-4. The 4 has a different firewall than the 6. I need to
>know what side of the recess box is the top?? the flat side or the tapered
>side? It appears that the tapered side goes down to make clearance for the
>battery box. But as my brain starts going over this I start to thing that it
>belongs the other way around. Thats what I get for thinking (or not).
>
>Bob Dieck
>Wausau Wi USA
>Rv6A Starting fuse. kit
>
>
>Robert/Tammie Dieck
>dieck(at)apexcomm.net
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Corner fuel tank attach nut plate |
<< I have a situation on my Six fuel tank at the outboard aft corner where I
need to use a #8 dimpled nut plate with either a single foot(2 rivet) or a
nutplate with feet 90 degrees. Many I have spoke to say "Oh sure I've seen
those" but I can't find a source. Can anyone help ?????? >>
Scott-
I know the one you're alluding to. Once the LE skin is on, it's a tough spot
in which to fit the standard K1100-08. However, I did end up using the
standard K1100-08 turned at a 45 degree angle to the spar line. It fit okay.
I placed a piece of steel sheet the thickness of the LE skin to bear against
the rivet head and allow the flat rivet set in the squeezer to work.
I have not personally seen the 90 degree nutplates in the structural
(countersunk) style, but I'll check my Kaynar catalog @ work to see if they
exist and get back to you via the list.
Try the K1100-08 turned as above and see if it will work.
-Gary VanRemortel
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank Smidler <smidler(at)dcwi.com> |
| Subject: | Elevator push rod installation |
While I'm waiting for my RV-6 finishing kit (can you say delayed?) I'm
finishing up my empenage installation. I am attempting to put in the
front elevator push rod but there is no way it's going to fit through
the bulkheads. The only way I can see getting it in is to drill a 1.25"
hole in the web of F604 on the opposite side of the centerline from the
hole for the trim cable. This way I can slip in through this hole from
rear to front until the rear end can slip down past F-605 and then move
it back into place. What have others done?
Frank Smidler, N96FS
smidler(at)dcwi.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ammeterj(at)seanet.com (John Ammeter) |
I believe you will find that the rear end of the line is connected to the
governor adapter. You can remove the adapter and bolt a cover over the
resulting opening.
If you're running a fixed pitch prop you don't need/want this line. Be sure
to save the AL line and adapter in case you should want to install a CS prop
later (or sell the items). We had a local builder cut the line since he
wanted to salvage the fittings; seemed kind of odd to cut a $100.00 item
apart to get $10.00 worth of AN fittings.
>John,
>My 0320 came from Lycoming (new :-) :-) :-)) with the front plug
>installed. I essentially did nothing to it except shorten the oil dip
>stick housing. It does have the AL line running from the case in front to
>the rear of the engine, I am assuming this is the same one mentioned and
>is for the CS prop. Why would you remove this? Just curious. Should/can
>I do this?
>Dan Boudro
>RV-4
>Albuquerque,NM
>dboudro(at)nmia.com
>
>----------
>> From: John Ammeter <seanet.com!ammeterj(at)matronics.com>
>
>> John Ammeter
>> ammeterj(at)seanet.com
>> 3233 NE 95th St
>> Seattle WA, 98115 USA
>> RV-6 N16JA
>> First flight August 1990
>>
>
>
John Ammeter
ammeterj(at)seanet.com
3233 NE 95th St
Seattle WA, 98115 USA
RV-6 N16JA
First flight August 1990
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Chandler" <mauser(at)Claris.COM> |
| Subject: | Re: pitot mounting screws; towbar |
> I've used it for over two years. It would be very easy to weld one
> up. Just make sure that the inside diam. of the tube is large enough
> to go over your nut and bolt head.
And be sure to paint it a bright color, like yellow with diagonal black
caution stripes and NEVER forget to remove it before flight. One of the
DUMBEST accidents I ever heard about involved someone forgetting to remove a
tow bar.
--
"Wait a minute, you expect us innocent children to climb up dangerous
scaffolding and paint naked people all over a church? We'll do it!!"
-- Yakko Warner, Animaniacs
"Yeah, I've got ADD, you wanna make something of.... oooh, cool. Look!"
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rolo-Flair operation question |
I have one of the Parker Roto-Flair tools also. Try taking a few 2 inch
scrap pieces of tubing and keep turning. Once a few have been over flaired
it is easy to tell when you reach the point that they call resistance. It
does take practice to make perfect flairs the first time with this tool.
Gary
RV-6, 20480, N157GS
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Alternate Wheel Pants & root fairings supplier |
<< Subj: RV-List: Alternate Wheel Pants & root fairings supplier
>I just found out yesterday that Klaus Savier has wheel pants available for
>both the 5x5 tires and the lamb tires. They appear to be lighter than
Van's
>wheel pants. Anyway, if you have any interest in this, call Klaus at (805)
>933-3299.
>
>Jim Ayers
>LOM M332A RV-3 N47RV Maroon Marauder
>LesDrag(at)aol.com
>Thousand Oaks, Ca. USA
Hi all:
Sam James sells a much higher quality set of pants- the one set of Klaus's I
saw were worse the the Van's two pc, and those are BAD. Could be the set I
saw slipped thru QC, but...
Tom Whelan (Bounty Hunter RV-4), Dave Anders (230+ mph RV-4) and others are
using Sam's pants on their birds.
(stuff cut)
Check six!
Mark
mlfred(at)aol.com
>>
Hi all:
Dave Anders (230+ mph RV-4) and Tracy Saylor (220+mph RV-6) are using Klaus
Savier's wheel pants. Klaus said he guarantees his wheel pants are the
lightest with the least drag.
I first noticed Tracy Saylor's wheel pant installation, becuase it was an
exceptionally nice fit.
Also, Sam James said he doesn't have a wheel pant for the Lamb tires on the
5x5 rim.
Just wanted to clarify this for the record.
Jim Ayers
LOM M332A RV-3 N47RV Maroon Marauder
(Using Van's single piece wheel pants. Not Less Drag)
LesDrag(at)aol.com
Thousand Oaks, Ca. USA
________________________________________________________________________________
In A&P school I learned that not only does the copper work harden but it is
heaver. Since any extra weight installed in the airframe subtracts from its
payload, they try to keep the weight down and use aluminum. I do not think
that there should be too much work hardening in the cockpit but I would not
want the extra weight or the added expense of buying copper when Van supplies
the Aluminum tube with the kit. The swag fittings used on copper lines
should never be used on aircraft. They make small scars where they cut into
the line and will lead to a break at that location.
Gary
RV-6, 20480, N157GS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | chester razer <crazer(at)egyptian.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator push rod installation |
Frank Smidler wrote:
>
> While I'm waiting for my RV-6 finishing kit (can you say delayed?) I'm
> finishing up my empenage installation. I am attempting to put in the
> front elevator push rod but there is no way it's going to fit through
> the bulkheads. The only way I can see getting it in is to drill a 1.25"
> hole in the web of F604 on the opposite side of the centerline from the
> hole for the trim cable. This way I can slip in through this hole from
> rear to front until the rear end can slip down past F-605 and then move
> it back into place. What have others done?
>
> Frank Smidler, N96FS
> smidler(at)dcwi.com
Frank, I've had mine in and out several times and you have
to bend it slightly and force it through the openings in the
bulkheads. There's no easy way to put it in place. Line
the holes with tape to minimize scratching the primer off if
you primed the piece.
chet
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Weichert, Wolfgang" <WOLFGANG.WEICHERT(at)nrc.ca> |
Canadian RV-6 C-FVMH completed its maiden flight on Thursday, Sept 19 at
Pendleton Airport, Ontario, Canada.
Emergency crew, vehicles, phones, first aid were all arranged and in
position, I wore fire protective suit (NOMEX), crash helmet etc. I had flown
same type of aircraft on previous day at same airport thanks to Marcel
Belanger, another RV-6 owner.
The flight progressed as thousands had before, with good climbout, feeling
out the controls, climb to 3000 ft, approaches to gentle stalls etc. There
was nothing unusual about this aircraft except its fast climb, excellent
rollrate, visibility, etc. The aircraft has now 10.2 hours on it, and with
three other keen partners, the 25 hours will be flown off very soon.
Smile - Your day will come, too!
wolfgang.weichert(at)nrc.ca
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RELOSVCS!WESTREG!EHENSON(at)cldwell.attmail.com (Henson, Eric) |
Hi Terry,
I was scratching my head on the same thing last night. I cut my flange for
the E-605 as you described, however I am under the impression that you only
backrivet the EET-601 to the skin. My kit is 3 years old so maybe things
have changed. Also am I correct in my interpretation of the plans that we
use the EET-603 (big piece of stiffener material) to make the control horn,
not the single side mounted horn in the plans.
With all the talk of overcontroll sensitivity I'm a little concerned with
how short the arms will be. Know what I mean?
Good Building
Eric Henson
ehenson(at)cldwell.attmail.com
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>Reply Seperator<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<
Folks - before I start doing things that I might regret later, I thought
that
I would confirm the following; The problem that I've got is that the flange
on
the EET-601 that mates to the spar looks like it needs to be cut away where
it
interferes with the E-605 flange that also mates to the spar. Also, I can't
find a reference to the rivet spacing when you attach it to the spar? Can 1
1/4" be assumed?
Any thoughts on the above would be very much appreciated...
Terry in Calgary
S/N 24414
"Empennage"
PS. Rumors of my demise have been *greatly* exaggerated! I have been
preoccupied with work related matters, second priority has been actually
working on the -6 (I'm on track for a record number of hours this month!),
and
next is *talking* about RVs on the list. It's good to be back!
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Mixture controls |
The other option is to use the vernier with the 10-32 thread and 8 degree
>swivel end. (I'm assuming you would want to use the cable with the swivel
>end). In this case, I could use a AN665-21R threaded terminal. With this
>method, conection to the mixture control arm is with a clevis pin and cotter
>pin.
> With the wire end control, measurement is not critical, you just cut to
>fit. A lot of factory airplanes use the bug nut clamped on a wire. The
>threaded end with the fork seems a little more "airworthy" to me but
>measurement for length is critical. The price for each is similar.
> As I remember, all of the airplanes I've owned have used the bug nut
>method and I've never had any problems. What are your opinions and ideas?
>Thanks, Bob Skinner RV-6 BSkinner(at)krvn.com
>
Bob; I have the vernier type on my mixture. I can't remember if it has the
yoke or the rod end bearing on the end of it, but it is not the bug fitting.
Somewhere in the back of my mind, it seems like there was an interference
problem with the yoke, causing me to go rod end bearing, but don't depend on
that. I would have to go look at it to be sure. One thing for sure, the
bracket to hold the end of the cable housing is a real Rube Goldberg on
mine. The distance from the end of the cable housing is different so there
is one bracket length for the throttle end, another for the mixture end. I
have Van's throttle bracket, but it was good just for starters, the end that
turns up was no where near what the throttle cable required, so I have
angles extended etc and built up and use Vans bracket only as a mount that
is connected to the carb. housing. My cable does have the swivel end on it.
You probably know that you can special order and get the cable with a
firewall fitting where ever you want it.
Do expect that the mixture will have some 'reversal' slack in it, just like
the list discussed about the elevator trim. Mine is between 1/2 and 3/4
turn for the reversal.
You are right about the measurement being more critical, but it is mostly
from the mounting bracket to the mixture lever on the carb., that's why my
bracket is a little funny to look at. I elected not to get a firewall
fitting on my cable, so that I could move it back and forth in the firewall
in case I needed to, didn't trust my measuring to be within that inch or so
that the firewall fitting permits..
Hope this helps.
John D
John Darby RV6 N61764 flying
johnd@our-town.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Patrick Kelley <patk(at)mail.ic.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Maiden Flight |
Weichert, Wolfgang wrote:
> (About a flight that will make the rest of us jealous.)
CONGRATULATIONS! Now, tell us how you and the partners are gonna divvy
up the time in the aircraft. Obviously, you won the fight for the first
flight... ;)
PatK - RV-6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6junkie(at)aol.com |
I have a Performance Prop. Love it. It performs just as Clark Lydick said it
would. It looks cool too.
Gary Corde
RV-6 N211GC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel tank attach nut plates |
I see several people have already responded to this, but.... The single
leg nut plates that Vans and ACS offers are all for NON-c-sunk screws.
I ran into the same problem and did find a source for them, Spencer
Aircraft 206-763-0800. The part number was NAS683-A08. But they don't
always have them in stock so you might have to wait. I'll bet if you
started calling numbers in Gary VanMortel's "Yeller Pages" you'd find
someone who has em.
An alternative is to take a piece of 1/8" alum, machine c-sink it for
the screw, and us it as a spacer under the (single leg) nut plate.
+---------- ---+
| \ / | <--- 1/8" thick spacer, machine c-sunk for #8 screw
+----------- ----+
==================
| | <--- single leg nutplate MS21051-L08
+---+
Randall Henderson, RV-6
randall(at)edt.com
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Gesele <scottg(at)villagenet.com> |
I just updated my home page with some engine installation pictures on my
RV-6A project.
There was a recent thread about the plexiglass transition from the front to
side rail on the tip-up canopy. This detail was caught in another picture,
under the My Fiance link on my home page, and can be seen at:
http://www.villagenet.com/~scottg/wendy.html
This shot is prior to laying up the fiberglass transition. My solution was
to "joggle" the glare shield where it meets the side rail. A flush rivet
was used to hold the joggled skin tight to the side rail. This joint faired
in nicely after it was fiberglassed. There are several ways of making this
transition. The above is just worked for me.
-Scott Gesele N506RV (Building seats. Thanks for the fax Gil)
scottg(at)villagenet.com
http://www.villagenet.com/~scottg/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator push rod installation |
I did the same thing. Just bend it slightly to get it in. I also had the
holes in the two bulkheads as big as I could.
Ross
>Frank Smidler wrote:
>>
>> While I'm waiting for my RV-6 finishing kit (can you say delayed?) I'm
>> finishing up my empenage installation. I am attempting to put in the
>> front elevator push rod but there is no way it's going to fit through
>> the bulkheads. The only way I can see getting it in is to drill a 1.25"
>> hole in the web of F604 on the opposite side of the centerline from the
>> hole for the trim cable. This way I can slip in through this hole from
>> rear to front until the rear end can slip down past F-605 and then move
>> it back into place. What have others done?
>>
>> Frank Smidler, N96FS
>> smidler(at)dcwi.com
>
>
>Frank, I've had mine in and out several times and you have
>to bend it slightly and force it through the openings in the
>bulkheads. There's no easy way to put it in place. Line
>the holes with tape to minimize scratching the primer off if
>you primed the piece.
>
>chet
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Gesele <scottg(at)villagenet.com> |
| Subject: | rv-list: Electrical wiring |
Hopefully this will be considered a rather basic question, but one that has
been driving me crazy. I'm running the electrical system for my RV-6A and
plan on patching a walkman into the intercom. It would be convenient to
have a power jack hard wired for the walkman. All the radios that I can
find have a 3V DC power in jack. The adapters that are available covert 110
AC to 3V DC. My voltage regulator will be set to 14.2V. Is there an easy
way to drop this down to 3V?
Thanks in advance.
-Scott Gesele N506RV
scottg(at)villagenet.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
| Subject: | Re: ELT's and antennas |
I'm somewhat "electronically challenged" (still puzzling over the
"garden hose" analogy for current and voltage). Any of you electrical
wiz-bang dudes out there have the real scoop on proximity of things like
the ELT and transponder antennas to something like the strobe power
supply?
My specific situation is this: I put my ELT under the baggage floor,
and about 10" away also under the baggage floor is the strobe power
supply. The ELT antenna will go up on the shoulder of the baggage side
panel, making the base of the antenna will be around 1 foot from the
strobe power supply. The antenna wire has to be routed around the
strobe power supply. I would also like to put my transponder antenna in
this area. The ELT manual just says to locate it away from sources of
EMF radiation.
So... do I have to worry about this? How does proximity of the
(shielded) strobe wires to the (shielded) antenna wires figure into the
equation? Besides the strobe power supply, are there any other EMF
sources I should be concerned about keeping radios/antennas away from?
Randall Henderson, RV-6
randall(at)edt.com
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ron Caldwell <RLCaldwell(at)chq.byu.edu> |
| Subject: | Applying Pro-Seal To Tanks |
I'm ready to begin sealing my RV6A fuel tanks. I seem to remember
something about using a special syringe or pump for applying Pro-seal.
Would like to know what it is called and where to get one? Is there any
special methods to using it? Do you need more than one of them?
Thanks for your help in advance.
Ron Caldwell
(RV6A - N655RV Reserved)
RLCaldwell(at)chq.byu.edu
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Chasnoff <74620.2053(at)CompuServe.COM> |
| Subject: | Avery Backrivet Tool |
A while back there were some postings about bending the long Avery backrivet
tool from 4 degrees to six degrees. What method worked best for anyone who has
done this. Heat, or cold in a press, or a combination. Thanks in advance.
David Chasnoff
RV-4
Reading, PA
74620.2053(at)CompuServe.Com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuel tank attach nut plates |
>An alternative is to take a piece of 1/8" alum, machine c-sink it for
>the screw, and us it as a spacer under the (single leg) nut plate.
Another alternative is to countersink them yourself. I did. Had the
countersink dies that I had ground down on one side to get in close to
flanges etc, used them to countersink the nut plates. Worked for me, didn't
have to sweat some special thing.
John D
John Darby RV6 N61764 flying
johnd@our-town.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuel tank attach nut plates |
| From: | Mike Kukulski <kukulski(at)indirect.com> |
Van's has the nutplates with lugs at 90 degrees in his catalog.
Mike Kukulski
kukulski(at)indirect.com
RV-4 N96MK
________________________________________________________________________________
aol.com!EBundy2620(at)matronics.com wrote:
>
>
> << With the hole in the rear plug the only 'pressure' you'll find at the
> front
> plug will be the pressure present in the crankcase. Since the crankcase is
> vented to the atmosphere the effective present is zero. Yes, you 'whack' it
> on the crown to flatten it; I used a wide punch and a large hammer to do the
> chore. Oh, yeah, smear some orange RTV around the edge of the plug before
> installing it.
>
> Ahhhh. That makes a lot more sense. So the pressure chamber for the prop is
> just between those plugs, and the rear plug just keeps the oil from dumping
> back into the crankcase? But then, why does the rear plug need to be pierced
> at all for fixed pitch operation?
>
You need to puncture the rear plug to permit oil to flow from the center of the
main bearing back
to the engine. Without this path oil flow to the bearing will be reduced. Most
likely a bad
thing.
My I0-360B4A (solid crank) has a hole in the main bearing flange to accomplish
the same thing.
Rgds
Tom Olson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | /249136/prosales/Paul Rosales <prosales(at)ladc.lockheed.com> |
>David McManmon writes:
>Does any body have knowledge of the RV6, H2AD
>installation. I have the modified mount ordered from Van's. Does
>installation need or not need cowl bumps for the fuel pump? the
>alternator? I've had conflicting stories on both. What do we use for
>car a alternator? What/how to make the brackets? The Voltage
>regulator? My finishing kit is due any minute, and H2AD is waiting
>patiently in garage. Any other advise? Please e-mail directly.
>Thanks
>McManD(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | EBundy2620(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator push rod installation |
<< I am attempting to put in the
front elevator push rod but there is no way it's going to fit through
the bulkheads. The only way I can see getting it in is to drill a 1.25"
hole in the web of F604 on the opposite side of the centerline from the
hole for the trim cable. >>
I was able to get it in by removing both rod end bearings and then
re-installing them after the pushrod was in.
Ed Bundy
ebundy2620(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Leo Davies <leo(at)icn.su.OZ.AU> |
| Subject: | Re: ELT's and antennas |
Randall,
I'd be surprised if your strobes are still working after impact.
LD
>I'm somewhat "electronically challenged" (still puzzling over the
>"garden hose" analogy for current and voltage). Any of you electrical
>wiz-bang dudes out there have the real scoop on proximity of things like
>the ELT and transponder antennas to something like the strobe power
>supply?
>
>My specific situation is this: I put my ELT under the baggage floor,
>and about 10" away also under the baggage floor is the strobe power
>supply. The ELT antenna will go up on the shoulder of the baggage side
>panel, making the base of the antenna will be around 1 foot from the
>strobe power supply. The antenna wire has to be routed around the
>strobe power supply. I would also like to put my transponder antenna in
>this area. The ELT manual just says to locate it away from sources of
>EMF radiation.
>
>So... do I have to worry about this? How does proximity of the
>(shielded) strobe wires to the (shielded) antenna wires figure into the
>equation? Besides the strobe power supply, are there any other EMF
>sources I should be concerned about keeping radios/antennas away from?
>
>Randall Henderson, RV-6
>randall(at)edt.com
>http://www.edt.com/homewing
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Leo Davies <leo(at)icn.su.OZ.AU> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator push rod installation |
>
><< I am attempting to put in the
> front elevator push rod but there is no way it's going to fit through
>
>I was able to get it in by removing both rod end bearings and then
>re-installing them after the pushrod was in.
>
>Ed Bundy
>ebundy2620(at)aol.com
>
Ditto,
I tried this last night, the piece with no rod ends is no problem.
LD
leo(at)icn.su.oz.au
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel tank corner attach nut plates |
For those of you that absolutely need to get the single lug and/or right
angle #8 COUNTERSUNK nutplates, they are Kaynar P/N K2100-08 (MS21053L08) and
P/N K3100-08 (MS21057L08) respectively.
These same parts apparently also have old NAS numbers as well, but I don't
know what they are. The MS numbers are the most current mil-spec superseding
numbers anyway. Kaynar Mfg Co. is the primary manufacturer of these
nutplates and they can be reached at 714-871-1550 to advise you of a
distributer in your area.
Regards,
Gary VanRemortel
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Alternate Wheel Pants & root fairings supplier |
> Tom Whelan (Bounty Hunter RV-4), Dave Anders (230+ mph RV-4) and others are
>using Sam's pants on their birds.
>(stuff cut)
> Check six!
> Mark
> mlfred(at)aol.com
> >>
>
>Hi all:
>
>Dave Anders (230+ mph RV-4) and Tracy Saylor (220+mph RV-6) are using Klaus
>Savier's wheel pants. Klaus said he guarantees his wheel pants are the
>lightest with the least drag.
>
>Also, Sam James said he doesn't have a wheel pant for the Lamb tires on the
>5x5 rim.
>
>Just wanted to clarify this for the record.
>
>Jim Ayers
>LOM M332A RV-3 N47RV Maroon Marauder
>(Using Van's single piece wheel pants. Not Less Drag)
>LesDrag(at)aol.com
>Thousand Oaks, Ca. USA
Hi all:
I sure thought Sam told me Dr Dave was running his wheel fairings, turns out
he's using Sam's ROOT fairings. My apologies for any confusion this might
have caused...
Didn't check my six!
Mark
mlfred(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | J.Ken_Hitchmough(at)magic.ca (J.Ken Hitchmough) |
I'm beginning to research wood props for an 0-360 on a 6A
and I'd appreciate hearing from those of you who are flying
behind one. The information I'd find most useful would be
from flyers who are 110% satisfied with their prop and also
from those who have had terrible experiences or performance
If you're prepared to wait, check out Bernie Warnke. I have TWO of his.
Currently running a 70*74 on my 6A...it is smooth and performsvery
well. Quite a piece of work too.
Ken
RV6A Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | david_fried(at)smtpgwy.dehavilland.ca |
| Subject: | Canadian Fuel Flow Tests |
The Canadian inspectors have a convention they follow for fuel flow on
the required pre-flight test. A minimum size on the fuel lines is 3/8
O.D. and they must provide 24 gph with minimum fuel in the tanks at
maximum climb angle. They admit that this is way in excess of what is
required in FAR 23. It seems that a smooth 3/8 line attached to a tank
with a head typical of high wing aircraft will drain at 30 gph, hence
this convention.
Van's Facet pump provides only 15 gph.
To the Canadian builders on the list:
What has been your experience with this test?
Are you using the same pump that Van sells?
David Fried
dfried(at)dehavilland.ca
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan Boudro <dboudro(at)nmia.com> |
| Subject: | Re: rv-list: Electrical wiring |
Scott,
What you're looking for is a 12V-3V dc-dc converter. Any electronics
store should be able to help you out. Since your only looking for 500ma
at the most it shouldn't be to expensive. Check around your area for the
electronics store where the ham radio guys shop.
I must admit I admire you guys that can listen to music and fly. I'm
always busy checking weather, checking the course given to me by the GPS
via dead reckoning, watching for traffic, monitoring fuel burn,
monitoring engine gauges/performance, calculating descent rates, making
sure I know the next frequencies I'll need, monitoring flight watch/ATC,
keeping an eye out for emergency landing sites.....
Dan Boudro
RV-4 N9167Z
Albuquerque, NM
dboudro(at)nmia.com
On Mon, 23 Sep 1996, Scott Gesele wrote:
> Hopefully this will be considered a rather basic question, but one that has
> been driving me crazy. I'm running the electrical system for my RV-6A and
> plan on patching a walkman into the intercom. It would be convenient to
> have a power jack hard wired for the walkman. All the radios that I can
> find have a 3V DC power in jack. The adapters that are available covert 110
> AC to 3V DC. My voltage regulator will be set to 14.2V. Is there an easy
> way to drop this down to 3V?
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> -Scott Gesele N506RV
> scottg(at)villagenet.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Lewis <lewis2(at)mailcenter.cmet.af.mil> |
| Subject: | Re: rv-list: Electrical wiring |
On Mon, 23 Sep 1996, Scott Gesele wrote:
> Hopefully this will be considered a rather basic question, but one that has
> been driving me crazy. I'm running the electrical system for my RV-6A and
> plan on patching a walkman into the intercom. It would be convenient to
> have a power jack hard wired for the walkman. All the radios that I can
> find have a 3V DC power in jack. The adapters that are available covert 110
> AC to 3V DC. My voltage regulator will be set to 14.2V. Is there an easy
> way to drop this down to 3V?
Scott,
I think the best solution would be a regulated dc power supply. I would
guess that Radio Shack would have the plans and components in their
component section. I've seen little "project notebooks" at Radio shack
which give design details for dozens of useful little circuits. A single
power supply transistor circuit should be able to give you 3 vdc for a low
current device such as a walkman. The basic idea is to bias the
transistor to produce 3 volts across two of it's connections. Sorry, my EE
degree is getting pretty old, so I can't remember the details.
A simpler, though not very elegant solution would be:
- Take a variable resistance potentiometer and set it to a high value
(10K Ohm perhaps)
- Put the potentiometer in series with your walkman, and hook this all up
to a 12v dc source
________________________
| |
--- |
- 12vdc Potentiometer
--- |----------------
- Walkman |
| | Voltmeter
| | |
__________________________________________
- Turn on walkman
- measure voltage across walkman (should be less than 3 volts--if not,
turn OFF and get bigger potentiometer)
- Slowly reduce resistance of potentiometer until voltage across walkman
rises to 3 v
- disconnect power, measure resistance of potentiometer (call this "R")
- replace potentiometer with carbon resistor of "R" ohms
- wire permanently
Limitations: This will only work for your walkman, since others will
need different values of R. If your walkman has several different power
consumption modes (radio, tape, fast forward, record, etc) this method
may not work, since different power consumption modes require different
values of R to produce 3 v across the walkman.
Another alternative (the one I've used): Buy rechargable AA batteries
and keep a charged set in the flight bag.
Hope this helps.
Tim
-------------------------------
Capt Tim Lewis
Kelly AFB, TX 210-442-4237
lewis2(at)mailcenter.cmet.af.mil
or capntim(at)aol.com
COML ASEL IA
RV-6AQ #60023
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | sheinlein(at)VNET.IBM.COM |
| Subject: | Heartfelt thanks to Gary Corde and Bill L. |
Wanted to send a "public" THANK-YOU to Gary and Bill for my very
first flight in an RV!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :)
I flew the ole club C-152 down to Alexandria Field (NJ) on Saturday
for their EAA fly-in. Got to meet a great bunch of people and see
4 or 5 RV's. Bill Levans (I KNOW this is spelled wrong!) took me
up for a fantastic 20 min flight in the RV-6 that Gary finished
earlier this year. IT WAS GREAT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Plus, my Dad
and I got to spend the next 2 hours crawling all over the plane
poking around and saying "Oh!", "I see!", "So, THAT'S how to do it!"
to each other!
Again, thanks SO MUCH Gary and Bill! I owe you one! Next time you
are up in Poughkeepsie, NY... let me know. I'll take you up for a
spin in the club's 152, ok? :) (Oh yeah, in case you have forgotten,
the 152 is a sweet lil bird! Just like an RV with the wings on top!
heh heh heh...)
Stephen Heinlein
sheinlein(at)vnet.ibm.com
(RV-6/6A... unfortunately, no closer on my decision!)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wstucklen1(at)juno.com (Frederic W Stucklen) |
magic.ca!J.Ken_Hitchmough(at)matronics.com (J.Ken Hitchmough) writes:
>
>I'm beginning to research wood props for an 0-360 on a 6A
>and I'd appreciate hearing from those of you who are flying
>behind one. The information I'd find most useful would be
>from flyers who are 110% satisfied with their prop and also
>from those who have had terrible experiences or performance
>
>
>If you're prepared to wait, check out Bernie Warnke. I have TWO of his.
>
>Currently running a 70*74 on my 6A...it is smooth and performsvery
>well. Quite a piece of work too.
>
>Ken
>
>RV6A Flying
>
I took Bernie Warnke's off my -6A. Put a Sensenich on and picked up 10
MPH.......
O-320D1A 160hp only one available now, but check with Sensenich as they
are working on a metal one for the 180 hp.....
Fred Stucklen RV-6A N925RV
wstucklen1(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Weichert, Wolfgang" <WOLFGANG.WEICHERT(at)nrc.ca> |
| Subject: | Canadian Fuel Flow Tests |
David Fried enquired about the canadian fuel flow test:
My fuel flow tests revealed a flow in excess of 30 US gal/hr (typically 32
- 35) with a useable fuel down to 0.2 litre in the tank with the fixed
pick-up tube, and 1 litre in the tank with the flop tube installed. I use
the Facet pump from Van's. For this test, I hoisted the aircraft by the
engine pickup to an angle of 19 degree as measured on the top longerons.
This is quite a steep deck angle. If the aircraft is left on its main gear,
you need to dig a big hole for the tail to go into.
wolfgang.weichert(at)nrc.ca, C-FVMH flying.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kevin lane <kevinlane(at)sprintmail.com> |
| Subject: | laser-guided sledge hammer dimpler plans |
OK, laugh, but remember, after 14 months I'm on the finish kit! I have built an
accessory to the Avery dimpler which enables me to use my foot to do the hammering
while
freeing up both hands to handle the skins. I can easily dimple at 30 holes/minute,
achieving consistent, smooth dimples. The foot pedal mechanism also quickly attaches
to
my Tatco squeezers which I mount in a bench vise. Using my foot to squeeze the
handles
I can dimple all the wing ribs in a couple of hours. Hand held, I can also squeeze
rivets (remember those endless wing skin to spar flange rivets and fuel tank nut
plates?).
The laser? Take a laser pointer, tape it to a clamp light to gain the
swivel
joint, clamp it above the dimpler, aim the beam right at the bump on the male die.
When
you dimple, simply move the hole to the red dot and there's the die, less groping
around and scratching the alclad. My plans will show you how to build the foot
pedal
mechanism which utilizes a Honda clutch cable(buy a used one for $15) for beefy
squeezing power. The dimpler attachment is a drop hammer using a common sledge
hammer.
Although I welded mine together, these could be bolted. Materials are just mild
steel
stock. Should take an afternoon to assemble. Send $10 to:
Kevin Lane
1818 SE Elliott Ave.
Portland, OR 97214
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kevin lane <kevinlane(at)sprintmail.com> |
| Subject: | control stick bolts/tilt-up welds |
after several dsicussions at Van's it was decided that the "H" type bolts
(hole drilled thru head for safety wire) are indeed what was intended for
the control stick pivot bolts. Apparently the H's were substituted
although the safety wire is not used, "no safety wire in the fuselage"
Andy stated.
I am not happy with the welds which connect the tilt-up side
rails to the 10 degree gusset angle piece. Mine appear to have not been
held in the jig tightly and consequently the outside measures about 85
degrees. A large gap enables one to see the backside of the weld bead
when viewed aft. A trip to Van's proved that the entire batch was welded
that way, so I guess I either reweld it or twist the side rail flush with
the exterior and hope that rotating the 100 angle gusset 5 degrees
doesn't affect the mounting of the roll bar pieces of the canopy frame.
Hats off to the majority of you builders who can't drive to North Plains
and get answers! Was that you on the phone waiting while Tom talked with
me??!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cecil Hatfield / Fourstar Printing <cecil(at)alto1.altonet.com> |
| Subject: | Applying Pro-Seal To Tanks |
Ron, I would not use the pump or tube method. The tube I got
(before I learned better) was a waste of $18. You can get
them from Aircraft Spruce.It all cured at once, you have to mix it all the
same time.
I got the quart from Van and mixed 1 or 2 oz. at a time and every thing
worked very well with no gloves. Just go slow and have clean up rags ready.
I used 8 x 8 cotton squares called 'web wipes'.
Boy!! does it stink. Boy!! does it stink. Boy does it stink.
-------------------------------------
Cecil Hatfield
cecil@altonet
RV-6A (wings)
Date: 09/24/96
Time: 08:47:10
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Osgood <rick(at)ccc.henn.tec.mn.us> |
| Subject: | Pro-seal shelf life |
Question to all: I am working in an unheated garage here in Minnesota and
wil be unable to use up my proseal before winter blows in. I am told that
Proseal only has a sheelf life of 6 months. Is this true and can this
life be extended till spring time.
Thanks
Rick(at)ccc.henn.tec.mn.us
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "r.acker" <r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Primers...again ! |
No intent to start another primer thread...I could not find an answer in the
archives.
The quickbuild kit is primered with Sherwin Williams Wash Primer. For the
few things left to prime, I think it might be simpler to use spray cans
instead of purchasing bulk primer and then mixing/cleaning.
I found spray cans of Marhyde...any thoughts on interaction between the two
types (other thoughts welcome as well)?
Rob Acker (r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com)
Rancho Santa Margarita, CA / RV-6Q / N164RA reserved
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <72770.552(at)CompuServe.COM> |
| Subject: | Secrets of the Universe |
>You all are losing me with this quantum physics approach to RV electrical
>systems. I've got BS and MS degrees in engineering (not EE, though) and
>am not completely stupid - just electrically challenged, if you will.
>I've read AeroElectric Connection cover to cover, and while I found it to
>be a very detailed discussion of electrical theory (i.e, how I spent my
>summer as an electron), it did not answer my primary question - how do I
>best install my electrical system. I'm talking the nuts and bolts
>mechanics of it, not designing a schematic. For that matter,I see the
>wiring schematics offered by Van and Bingelis as equally useful as that
>in AEC.
>
>I acknowledge Bob Nuckolls' expertise in this area; and print out almost
>everything he has covered on this list, but this still is just not
>completing the picture. I really just want to install a basic electrical
>system to power my avionics and lights without becoming an electrical
>engineer. How about an foot bone connected to the ankle bone level
>description?
>
I've pointed out before and will continue to do so . . . the 'Connection
was never intended to be a "cookbook." It started out that way but
when my subscriber base spread from ultralights to Lancair IVP's,
there was no way that a single text could say "buy these parts, hook
'em up like this and trust me . . . it will work!
I have encouraged virtually all kit suppliers to develop factory
recommended wire books and bills of materials appropriate to their
respective projects; for many, I've offered assistance at any level
they deem appropriate to the task but alas . . . after ten years of
preaching to the stone walls, no one puts out more than a crude power
distribution diagram or small snippets of system data on a page-by-page
basis.
The 'Connection is a compendium of technologies applicable to airplanes.
Power distribution diagrams in the back are a baseline for creation
of customized drawings specific to each kitbuilder's wishes and
pocketbook. Electrical system planning sheets are offered for the
price of an SASE. Individuals with AutoCAD capabilities are offered
FREE disks containing 99% of the wiring, page formating and symbols
library needed to do very professional wire books. Schematics and
bills of materials are offered for all of our turn-key products.
When readers take the time to communicate their specific questions,
I do my best to spend the time necessary to keep their project moving
forward . . . further, if anyone finds their purchase of data, goods
and/or services from AEC lacking, a satisfaction-or-your-money-back
guarantee is in place.
>I will talk to Bob offline to get my particulars ironed out; addressed
>the list in case others out there might be scratching their heads like me
>over this latest LED theory discussion.
Why offline? With all the RV's under construction, I doubt that any
one builder's questions are totally unique . . . besides, open
forums is where critical design review has to take place . . . if
there's a problem with some decision or suggestion, the chances of
it being caught in closed session are remote compared to activities
like usenet, sigs and list servers. I'll participate in discussions
ranging from stripping wire to quantum physics in LEDs . . you guys
call the shots.
>Help us Obi-Wan Nuckolls, you are our only hope!
I hardly think so but I DO offer at least one option. IMHO the future
of personally owned airplanes with leading edge performance capabilities
is at OSH, not ICT. Just read this morning that a basic C-172 is
going to be priced at $120,000 plus! The GA fleet has been dwindling
to the tune of 10,000 airplanes per year for some time . . . there's
indeed a market for a FEW new 172's and 182's but I'll bet there's
a bigger market for what's going on in people's basements and garages!
My vision of GA's future says that we'll not only build airplanes
more appropriate to our needs but we'll do it better (demonstrated
by a LOWER accident rate than for certified ships). This can happen
because amateur builders know 1000% more about their airplanes than
the average spam-can driver . . . but nobody ever said it was going
to be easy!
Bob . . .
AeroElectric Connection
****************************
* Go ahead, make my day. *
* Show me where I'm wrong! *
****************************
72770.552(at)compuserve.com
nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6junkie(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Applying Pro-Seal To Tanks |
<< I'm ready to begin sealing my RV6A fuel tanks. I seem to remember
something about using a special syringe or pump for applying Pro-seal.
Would like to know what it is called and where to get one? Is there any
special methods to using it? Do you need more than one of them?
>>
The mix that comes in tubes and is applied with a chaulking gun is made by
Seal Pack. I don't have the number here but they are located in Wichita, KS.
Works great.
Gary Corde
RV-6 N211GC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6junkie(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Music (was Electrical wiring) |
<< I must admit I admire you guys that can listen to music and fly. I'm
always busy checking weather, checking the course given to me by the GPS
via dead reckoning, watching for traffic, monitoring fuel burn,
monitoring engine gauges/performance, calculating descent rates, making
sure I know the next frequencies I'll need, monitoring flight watch/ATC,
keeping an eye out for emergency landing sites.....
>>
I have a CD player in my radio rack and the intercom (PS 2000) and headsets
are wired for stereo. Great sound. Nothing beats watching the sun come up
above the clouds with your favorite music playing in an aircraft that you
built with your own two hands.
Life Is Good.
Gary Corde
RV-6 N211GC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6junkie(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Applying Pro-Seal To Tanks |
<< I would not use the pump or tube method. The tube I got
(before I learned better) was a waste of $18. You can get
them from Aircraft Spruce.It all cured at once, you have to mix it all the
same time. >>
The CS3200B2 from Seal Pack has a set-up time of 2 hours. You might have had
a old tube, they are dated. I have sealed the tanks both ways and would ONLY
use the 6 oz. tubes. It takes two tubes to complete the rib/skin structure
and another one for the rear baffle. Wear multiple pairs of rubber gloves so
when the top pair get gunked-up you can pull 'em off for a fresh pair. I
used the Dupont Gun & Equipment cleaner on my clecos, plyers, rivet set,
skin, table, door knob, dog when I was done. Worked real well. I let the
clecos sit in the stuff for about 3 days and had to peal off the pro-seal off
each one. I would use the plastic clecos if I had to due it again, this way
I wouldn't have to clean 'em.
Everybody complains about sealing the tanks but I must confess, I thought
that it was one of the most enjoyable parts of building the plane.
Gary Corde
RV-6 N211GC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6junkie(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Heartfelt thanks to Gary Corde and Bill L. |
<< Wanted to send a "public" THANK-YOU to Gary and Bill for my very
first flight in an RV!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :)
>>
You are very welcome. If I can help out others looking for a ride (in my
neck of the woods) let me know. But let me know soon as I plan to start
painting the plane in the next few weeks and the aircraft will be grounded
for a month or so.
BTW, I plan to install my EFI at the same time.
Gary Corde
RV-6 N211GC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
| Subject: | Re: Pro-seal shelf life |
Keep it in the fridge. I have a can of proseal that's nearly 2 years
old and it still seems fine (of course, I'm not using it to seal fuel
tanks any more though).
Randall Henderson, RV-6
randall(at)edt.com
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <72770.552(at)CompuServe.COM> |
| Subject: | Alternator Light |
:
:
:
:
>> The main thing to keep in mind is the current put through the device.
>> A dropping resistor is necessary to limit the current through the LED,
>> as noted in the original post.
>>
>> "overdriving" for intermittant periods is NOT recommended as it will
>> probably not destroy the device immediatly, but these are not light
>> bulbs, and reliability will be affected. . . . .
In my personal experience, I've found LED's to be more rugged
than incandescent lamps . . . a 5% increase in lamp voltage cuts
a incandescent lamp's life by 1/2! I've never yet seen an LED fail
in some products that overdrive the lamp to the tune of 20% or more
. . . of course, it may very well reduce lamp life but if it was
100,000+ hours to begin with ?? Generally, I've found the modern
LED to be a rugged device quite tolerant of being "pushed."
>> The best way to handle the
>> brightness issue is to use one with enough brightness at its rated max
>> forward current, and to derate a little bit for life, especially in an
>> aircraft where starting and various nasty spikes exist. Operating too
>> close to the max current limit could cause one of those spikes to take
>> out the LED.
I got to object to the "nasty spikes" wordage here . . . airplanes
have no worse transient condtions than any other vehicular d.c. power
system and LEDs are pervasive in ALL vehicular systems. Further, when
any transient I'd classify as a "spike" does occur, it's duration is
measured in microseconds to a few milliseconds . . hardly the
killers that legend has made them out to be. Very ordinary precautions
filter out this type of transient. De-rating for life enhancement
is un-necessary . . .
Bob . . .
AeroElectric Connection
****************************
* Go ahead, make my day. *
* Show me where I'm wrong! *
****************************
72770.552(at)compuserve.com
nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
| Subject: | Re: laser-guided sledge hammer dimpler plans |
Keven, you weenie! Does this mean you won't share your "laser
guided sledge hammer" plans with the group for FREE? Shame
on you! Oh well, who am I to complain, I've been cashing in on the
group's "RVator logo" for a while now.... :-)
Randall
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <72770.552(at)CompuServe.COM> |
| Subject: | hand-held power in cockpit |
>>From: Scott Gesele <scottg(at)villagenet.com>
>>Hopefully this will be considered a rather basic question, but one that has
>>been driving me crazy. I'm running the electrical system for my RV-6A and
>>plan on patching a walkman into the intercom. It would be convenient to
>>have a power jack hard wired for the walkman. All the radios that I can
>>find have a 3V DC power in jack. The adapters that are available covert 110
>>AC to 3V DC. My voltage regulator will be set to 14.2V. Is there an easy
>>way to drop this down to 3V?
Scott,
I did an article on electronic panel light dimming using integrated
circuit, 3-terminal regulators which appeared in Sport Aviation,
June 1993, Page 50. Leave off the adjustment potentiometer, change
the output resistor to 120 ohms and the "adj" resistor to 180 ohms
and you'll have a regulated, 3 volt power supply for you walkman.
I also have kits.
>>I think the best solution would be a regulated dc power supply. I would
>>guess that Radio Shack would have the plans and components in their
>>component section. I've seen little "project notebooks" at Radio shack
>>which give design details for dozens of useful little circuits.
Same as I've described above except the article is mechanically
more specific.
>>A simpler, though not very elegant solution would be:
>>- Take a variable resistance potentiometer and set it to a high value
>>(10K Ohm perhaps)
>>- Put the potentiometer in series with your walkman, and hook this all up
>>to a 12v dc source
>>
>>
>> ________________________
>> | |
>> --- |
>>Enter command or > for more !
>>
>>CompuServe Mail
>>
>>
>>
>> - 12vdc Potentiometer
>> --- |----------------
>> - Walkman |
>> | | Voltmeter
>> | | |
>> __________________________________________
>>
>>- Turn on walkman
>>- measure voltage across walkman (should be less than 3 volts--if not,
>>turn OFF and get bigger potentiometer)
>>- Slowly reduce resistance of potentiometer until voltage across walkman
>>rises to 3 v
>>- disconnect power, measure resistance of potentiometer (call this "R")
>>- replace potentiometer with carbon resistor of "R" ohms
>>- wire permanently
>>
>>Limitations: This will only work for your walkman, since others will
>>need different values of R. If your walkman has several different power
>>consumption modes (radio, tape, fast forward, record, etc) this method
>>may not work, since different power consumption modes require different
>>values of R to produce 3 v across the walkman.
NOT RECOMMENDED! This is a simple, series resistor voltage dropping
technique that will cause voltage delivered to Walkman to vary
wildly depending on the current it draws . . . if adjusted for 3.0
volts while the drive motor is ON, the voltage will rise a lot
when the drive motor is OFF. ACTIVE regulation as previously
described is necessary.
Bob . . .
AeroElectric Connection
****************************
* Go ahead, make my day. *
* Show me where I'm wrong! *
****************************
72770.552(at)compuserve.com
nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ted French <french(at)computime.bc.ca> |
J.Ken Hitchmough wrote:
>
>
> I'm beginning to research wood props for an 0-360 on a 6A
> and I'd appreciate hearing from those of you who are flying
> behind one. The information I'd find most useful would be
> from flyers who are 110% satisfied with their prop and also
> from those who have had terrible experiences or performance
>
>
> If you're prepared to wait, check out Bernie Warnke. I have TWO of his.
>
> Currently running a 70*74 on my 6A...it is smooth and performsvery
> well. Quite a piece of work too.
>
> Ken
>
> RV6A Flying
Ken
I have an RV-6A with 50 hours on it in BC Canada
I installed a Colin Walker wood prop on it. 70 dia 79 pitch
Colin is an ex cabinet maker in Langley BC who has been making props for
some years now. Very high quality. When I firewall the throttle in my AC
I true out at 200 mph with a RPM of 2760. Needless to say, I am happy
with the combination.
Ted French
RV-6A C-FXCS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Weichert, Wolfgang" <WOLFGANG.WEICHERT(at)nrc.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Pro-seal shelf life |
Rick asked:
>Question to all: I am working in an unheated garage here in Minnesota and
>wil be unable to use up my proseal before winter blows in. I am told that
>Proseal only has a sheelf life of 6 months. Is this true and can this
>life be extended till spring time.
Rick, I think the shelf life of 6 months includes some safety for
unaccountable delays in shipping etc, but I would suggest not to stretch it
too much. I went about 6 month over the limit and decided to purchase a new
batch of proseal. It's not worth taking a risk with leaking fuel tanks.
What you could do is to mix a batch now and try to remember the ease of
mixing and consistency. Then do the same when you are ready to use it, and
if the mix is noticeably harder than what you remember, get new proseal.
When I received my second batch of proseal, I compared old and new, and
there was a distinct difference in mixing consistency,
Wolfgang.Weichert(at)nrc.ca, (and partners), RV-6 C-FVMH flying without fuel
leaks.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rdunn(at)ionet.net (Ronald M. Dunn) |
Saw a couple dozen RVs at the Bartlesville OK fly-in last weekend. Talked
to many RVers. But there was one owner that I missed. I sure would like to
talk to the owner of a RV-4 that had three axis adjustable trim. The RV-4
was red over white with a sliding canopy and its N number was 770DH.
Anybody know who this plane belongs to?
Ron (waiting on wings)
Ron Dunn (RV-8 #80078)
rdunn(at)ionet.net
Broken Arrow, OK
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott.Fink(at)Microchip.COM (Scott Fink) |
| Subject: | Re: Alternator Light |
--- Snip ---
>> The best way to handle the
>> brightness issue is to use one with enough brightness at its rated max
>> forward current, and to derate a little bit for life, especially in an
>> aircraft where starting and various nasty spikes exist. Operating too
>> close to the max current limit could cause one of those spikes to take
>> out the LED.
>I got to object to the "nasty spikes" wordage here . . . airplanes
>have no worse transient condtions than any other vehicular d.c.
>power system and LEDs are pervasive in ALL vehicular systems.
>Further, when any transient I'd classify as a "spike" does occur,
>it's duration is measured in microseconds to a few milliseconds . .
>hardly the
>killers that legend has made them out to be. Very ordinary precautions
>filter out this type of transient. De-rating for life enhancement
>is un-necessary . . .
>Bob . . .
Bob,
You are talking about connecting an LED, which you are already
"pushing" with greater than the max rated current, directly to the
alternator of an airplane (homebuilt, probably with groundloops all
over it). I would absolutly call these "nasty spikes"! Besides, a
few milliseconds is an eternity to a semiconductor junction whose
switching time is measured in nanoseconds. Couple this with a flyby
of a radar facility (yes, they can couple in a LOT of power) and you
have a recipe for a failed part. Yes it is only a 10 cent LED, but
why not spec one with the correct brightness and derate it in the
first place and be done with it? He was talking about using it as a
failure indicator, if the LED fails he either gets a false indication
of a failure, which is bad, or much worse, no indication of a real
failure untill it becomes an emergency.
The "absolute maximum ratings" that semiconductor manufacturers
specify are just that, above those ratings you are GUARANTEED to be
damaging the device, possibly only reducing long term reliability, but
you ARE damaging the device. Manufacturers do not guardband these
ratings, they guardband their normal maximum ratings.
Maybe you have enough experience to be able to make personal choices
about when to push and when to not push, and get away with it in most
cases, but the person asking this question has no knowledge of
electronics and probably barely knows what V=IR means (not to belittle
the asker, I don't now squat about law) and recommending he "push" the
specs will probably at the very least cause frustration.
I may be a little conservative, as I used to design commercial
avionics, but if I made the statements you made above or designed like
that, I would be fired, or at the very least be put into manufacturing
engineering where I wouldn't hurt myself.
Scott Fink
RV6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Leo Davies <leo(at)icn.su.OZ.AU> |
| Subject: | Re: Pro-seal shelf life |
Rick,
Put it in the fridge. Although in your case it sounds as if leaving it in
the garage might accomplish the same thing. In general terms chemical
reactions halve for each 10 degree celsius drop in temperature. Degradation
in the material is going to be related to some unwanted reaction (likely
some sort of depolymerization). The calculated shelf life will be related
to some mean storage temperature like 25 degrees celsius (about 80 F).
Dropping it 20 degrees will quadruple this. You will need to let it warm up
again before you use it because the viscosity goes up a lot at 4 degrees C.
Leo Davies
leo(at)icn.su.oz.au
>Question to all: I am working in an unheated garage here in Minnesota and
>wil be unable to use up my proseal before winter blows in. I am told that
>Proseal only has a sheelf life of 6 months. Is this true and can this
>life be extended till spring time.
>
>Thanks
>Rick(at)ccc.henn.tec.mn.us
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Louis Willig <larywil(at)Op.Net> |
| Subject: | Re:RV with 3-axis trim |
Ron,
The builder of RV-4 N770DH is Joe Mayer. The Current owner is David Hilks
at POBox 877, Cimarron, KS 67835-0877
How do I know this? Because I subscribe to AVweb. Do a net search for AVweb.
You will be very pleased with the info, access, and news that arrives each
day. It costs nothing and gives a lot. There is such a thing a free lunch.
In this case, I simply went into the FAA database and looked up the N number.
Good Luck,
Louis Willig
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | EBundy2620(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: rv-list: Electrical wiring |
<< plan on patching a walkman into the intercom. It would be convenient to
have a power jack hard wired for the walkman. All the radios that I can
find have a 3V DC power in jack. The adapters that are available covert 110
AC to 3V DC. My voltage regulator will be set to 14.2V. Is there an easy
way to drop this down to 3V? >>
You should be able to get an adapter for a cigarette lighter. Then just wire
a lighter jack into your panel. I wired one in for a handheld GPS under the
panel to save a little space. Your voltage regulator may be 14.2, but your
bus voltage will be less and a 12V adapter will work fine.
Ed Bundy
ebundy2620(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | EBundy2620(at)aol.com |
<< > Ahhhh. That makes a lot more sense. So the pressure chamber for the
prop is
> just between those plugs, and the rear plug just keeps the oil from
dumping
> back into the crankcase? But then, why does the rear plug need to be
pierced
> at all for fixed pitch operation?
>
You need to puncture the rear plug to permit oil to flow from the center of
the main bearing back
to the engine. Without this path oil flow to the bearing will be reduced.
Most likely a bad
thing. >>
Agreed. But no oil can even get into the area to begin with if the oil line
is removed and there is a plug in the front part of the case. Or am I
missing something here. (very likely)
Ed
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | CompuServe_Mail <postmaster(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: rv-list: Electrical wiring |
Message "Re: RV-List: rv-list: Electrical wiring" could not be delivered to the
following recipient(s):
[70743,2727]
[72770,552]
[74620,2053]
[74664,2105]
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | CompuServe_Mail <postmaster(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: rv-list: Electrical wiring |
From: EBundy2620(at)aol.com
Date: Tue, 24 Sep 1996 19:59:21 -0400
Subject: Re: RV-List: rv-list: Electrical wiring
<< plan on patching a walkman into the intercom. It would be convenient to
have a power jack hard wired for the walkman. All the radios that I can
find have a 3V DC power in jack. The adapters that are available covert 110
AC to 3V DC. My voltage regulator will be set to 14.2V. Is there an easy
way to drop this down to 3V? >>
You should be able to get an adapter for a cigarette lighter. Then just wire
a lighter jack into your panel. I wired one in for a handheld GPS under the
panel to save a little space. Your voltage regulator may be 14.2, but your
bus voltage will be less and a 12V adapter will work fine.
Ed Bundy
ebundy2620(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | chester razer <crazer(at)egyptian.net> |
| Subject: | Performance Props |
Any RVer out there flying an 0-360 with a three blade
performance prop. I'd like to talk with you about your
engine prop combination. Please e-mail me direct with a
phone number and a good time to call and I'll contact you.
chet razer: fuselage kit finished waiting on finish kit.
Approximately 1400 hours to this point
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | chester razer <crazer(at)egyptian.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Primers...again ! |
I discovered Marhyde late in my 6A construction. Initially,
I didn't use it because I couldn't bring myself to spray a
very light tack coat, let it flash and then spray a cover
coat. I just wanted to do it all one time and that resulted
in runs. Since I've learned how to use it I really like the
stuff. In fact I plan to spay it over the Veriprime I have
already primed all my cabin and baggage compartment with.
I've experimented with applying it over veriprime and I
covers flawlessly and with no signs of incompatibility.
Also I've found that it is almost impervious to lacquer
thinner where the veriprime wipes right off. I just ordered
a gallon of the stuff (other house jobs in mind). The nice
thing is that the spray cans can be used for small touch up
jobs.
chet razer: can't understand what the hold up is on finish
kits.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | J.Ken_Hitchmough(at)magic.ca (J.Ken Hitchmough) |
| Subject: | Re: rv-list: Electrical wiring |
Hopefully this will be considered a rather basic question, but one that
has
been driving me crazy. I'm running the electrical system for my RV-6A
and
plan on patching a walkman into the intercom. It would be convenient to
have a power jack hard wired for the walkman. All the radios that I can
find have a 3V DC power in jack. The adapters that are available covert
110
AC to 3V DC. My voltage regulator will be set to 14.2V. Is there an
easy
way to drop this down to 3V?
try this.
Go to Radio Shack, get a 150 ohm (or pretty close) resistor rated at a
couple of watts or so. Get a ZENER diode as close as you can to 3
volts. I think the closest is 2.7v which MAY work.
Wire the resistor and the zener in series with the arrow of the zener
connected to the resistor. Connect the other end of the zener to
ground, Connect the other end of the resistor to the supply. If you're
lucky, the zener won't blow.
Now connect your tape deck to the junction between the zener and the
resistor. It should stay at 2.7v.
If the voltage is too low, add another diode (a regular one) in series
with the zener, with the arrow the same way, this should give about
another 0.6v.
You have now created a very simple series regulator. The value I gave
for the resistor was based on taking about 100milliamp, you may have to
experiment if your current is different
+14----/\/\/\/\/\---|--|<------gnd
150 | zener
|
to tape
Ken
RV6A flying
j.ken_hitchmough(at)mail.magic.ca
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Greg Bordelon <greg(at)brokersys.com> |
| Subject: | Primers...again ! |
r.acker[SMTP:ix.netcom.com!r.acker(at)matronics.com] wrote:
>No intent to start another primer thread...I could not find an answer =
in the
>archives.
>
>The quickbuild kit is primered with Sherwin Williams Wash Primer. For =
the
>few things left to prime, I think it might be simpler to use spray cans
>instead of purchasing bulk primer and then mixing/cleaning.
>
>I found spray cans of Marhyde...any thoughts on interaction between the =
two
>types (other thoughts welcome as well)?
>
>Rob Acker (r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com)
>Rancho Santa Margarita, CA / RV-6Q / N164RA reserved
>
Rob, if your going to use sprays cans, I think you would be better off =
using zinc cromate. I like to etch and alodine......some people don't. I =
have no experience with the Marhyde but I think the zinc cromate is far =
superior. My thoughts only....................
+++++++++++++++++++
Greg Bordelon
greg(at)brokersys.com
+++++++++++++++++++
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Chandler" <mauser(at)Claris.COM> |
| Subject: | Re: rv-list: Electrical wiring |
> From: CompuServe_Mail <compuserve.com!postmaster(at)matronics.com>
> To: EBundy2620(at)aol.com, rv-list(at)matronics.com, bounces(at)matronics.com
>
> Message "Re: RV-List: rv-list: Electrical wiring" could not be
> delivered to the following recipient(s):
> [70743,2727]
> [72770,552]
> [74620,2053]
> [74664,2105]
Well, they're getting a LITTLE smarter about it.
--
"Wait a minute, you expect us innocent children to climb up dangerous
scaffolding and paint naked people all over a church? We'll do it!!"
-- Yakko Warner, Animaniacs
"Yeah, I've got ADD, you wanna make something of.... oooh, cool. Look!"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Chandler" <mauser(at)Claris.COM> |
| Subject: | Standard Air tools |
So, next month, before the 10% off coupon HomeBase sent me expires, I'm gonna
go buy a compressor and a bunch of other big ticket items (band saw, drill
press, and bench grinder), and I was wondering which of the ordinary items
they have there I should also get. I notice that they don't sell riveting
tools. But there's a good supply of drills, air sockets, impact wrenches, air
hammers, die grinders, cut-off tools, and spray guns. (As well as a tire
inflator and the simple air nozzle).
What should I get on this same 10% off ticket? Is a reversible air drill
really worth twice to 3x the price of a simple one? I've never been into air
tools before, so what do I really need for their care and feeding? Necessary
accessories?
(Oh, and the compressor is a 4.5 HP Cambell-Hausefield, belt drive, 110v
(convertable to 220) with a built in regulator. Selling for $347. Good
deal?)
--
"Wait a minute, you expect us innocent children to climb up dangerous
scaffolding and paint naked people all over a church? We'll do it!!"
-- Yakko Warner, Animaniacs
"Yeah, I've got ADD, you wanna make something of.... oooh, cool. Look!"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kingm(at)whidbey.net (Monte King) |
| Subject: | Re: Alternator Light |
snip..
>
> You are talking about connecting an LED, which you are already
> "pushing" with greater than the max rated current, directly to the
> alternator of an airplane (homebuilt, probably with groundloops all
> over it). I would absolutly call these "nasty spikes"! Besides, a
> few milliseconds is an eternity to a semiconductor junction whose
> switching time is measured in nanoseconds. Couple this with a flyby
> of a radar facility (yes, they can couple in a LOT of power) and you
> have a recipe for a failed part. Yes it is only a 10 cent LED, but
> why not spec one with the correct brightness and derate it in the
> first place and be done with it? He was talking about using it as a
> failure indicator, if the LED fails he either gets a false indication
> of a failure, which is bad, or much worse, no indication of a real
> failure untill it becomes an emergency.
>
First of all, lighten up. I think Bob is uniquely qualified to make a call
to reliably 'push' a rather robust part such as an LED. A career of
electrical/electronic FMEA studies at least gives him that distinction.
Secondly, you aren't seriously suggesting that a flyby of a normal radar
facility at legal altitudes would measurably contribute to a blown LED are
you? That's a myth that needs to not get started here.
Monte King
RV-6A
N693KM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Elon Ormsby <ormsby1(at)popsicle.llnl.gov> |
| Subject: | Re: Alternator Light |
Yes it is only a 10 cent LED, but
why not spec one with the correct brightness and derate it in the
first place and be done with it? He was talking about using it as a
failure indicator, if the LED fails he either gets a false indication
of a failure, which is bad, or much worse, no indication of a real
failure untill it becomes an emergency.
--------------------------------------------------
> First of all, lighten up. I think Bob is uniquely qualified to make a call
>to reliably 'push' a rather robust part such as an LED. A career of
>electrical/electronic FMEA studies at least gives him that distinction.
(snip)
Monte King
--------------------------------------------------
Geeze! Monte your CHT runn'th over.
Quite frankly, I appreciate a measured opinion that may be a different but
factual point of view. Even Bob has said "I don't usually DISagreed with
Tony Bingelis but..." meaning even an icon is subject to scrutiny. Maybe
I'm "electrically challenged" like Randall but its a pleasure to hear more
than one idea from two degreed electrical engineers. There is merit in each
point of view compared to some of the bs bantered about.
-Elon
ormsby1(at)popsicle.llnl.gov
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Barry WARD <ward(at)axime.com> |
I am new in here so this question may have already been covered. I am
building the wing on my RV6A and have riveted the top skins first. When I
come to putting on the bottom skins I would like to know if it is not better
to use the flush head pop rivets that Vans says can be used.
Are Pop rivets as strong as the specified solid rivets? Obviously they are a
bit heavier, however a correctly seated pop rivet may be stronger than a
poorly seated solid rivet. On the wing skins it seems as though it will be
difficult to check on whether a solid rivet has been correctly set. I have
asked this question to our friends at Vans but they dont like to commit
themselves on the subject of comparative strengths.
Question number two is what value are you using to torque down the bolts
holding the ribs to the main spar? The values given in the Preview Manual
are not clear.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bcos(at)ix.netcom.com (William Costello ) |
| Subject: | Pneumatic squeezer prob follow-up |
Hi Folks,
A quick note to thank the many who gave me ideas about the pneumatic
squeezer. I have a daughter getting married in a week and wow is this
time-consuming. Send all your daughters off to the convent guys! :)
I'll let the group know what things I tried with the squeezer and how
they worked. (I'm not talking about her fiancee, who, of course, isn't
good enough!)
Best regards,
Bill Costello
--
Bill Costello | bcos(at)ix.netcom.com | Chicago | 312-445-1246
Building RV-6 | Reserved N97WC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard E Steffens" <resteffe(at)dpcmail.dukepower.com> |
| Subject: | rv-list Three-blade props |
Chet Razer wrote:
>Any RVer out there flying an 0-360 with a three blade performance
prop. I'd like to talk with you about your engine prop combination.
Please e-mail me direct with a phone number and a good time to call
and I'll contact you.
chet razer: fuselage kit finished waiting on finish kit.
Approximately 1400 hours to this point<
I am about to order a prop for my 180 hp -6 and am considering a
three-bladed Performance prop. It's about $1000 more than the
two-blade and probably doesn't perform that much better so it must
really look cool. I, like Chet, would like to know more. Those who
know or have an opinion please post to the list. Also to Chet, please
give your email address. Thanks
Dick Steffens resteffe(at)dpcmail.dukepower.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Lewis <lewis2(at)mailcenter.cmet.af.mil> |
| Subject: | Re: Standard Air tools |
On Tue, 24 Sep 1996, Richard Chandler wrote:
> ...and I was wondering which of the ordinary items
> they have there I should also get. I notice that they don't sell riveting
> tools. But there's a good supply of drills, air sockets, impact wrenches, air
> hammers, die grinders, cut-off tools, and spray guns. (As well as a tire
> inflator and the simple air nozzle).
I've found a die grinder to be very valuable. Mine (from Avery) has a
"feathering" trigger, so I can adjust the speed -- that's very handy when
running a rotary file to enlarge a hole. I bought a relatively cheap cut
off tool (looks like a die grinder, but it has a shield over the cut off
wheel -- I couldn't quite bring myself to put a cut off wheel on my
unshielded die grinder. ). It also has come in handy, especially when I
needed to cut some steel to make a special purpose bucking bar.
Other good stuff to get:
- Lots of quick disconnect couplers, and an extension hose to get air to
wherever you'll be doing your spraying.
- I bought a retracting hose reel from Harbor Freight (around $35). I put
it on the ceiling in my shop. I really like it, as it allows me to keep
the hose out of the way.
- Little cheapo air gun ($5) for blasting dirt and shavings out of hard
to reach places
- I needed Teflon tape to get my hose fittings to seal
> (Oh, and the compressor is a 4.5 HP Cambell-Hausefield, belt drive, 110v
> (convertable to 220) with a built in regulator. Selling for $347. Good
> deal?)
I found one at Sams for right at $300. I think you're doing the right
thing getting one with a belt drive and an oil bath. I bought a direct
drive, oil-less unit, and it was LOUD. Following the advice of several
people on this list, I replaced it.
I regret to inform your wallet that this is only the beginning of the
tool aquisition adventure.
Good Luck
tim
-------------------------------------------
Capt Tim Lewis
Kelly AFB, TX 210-442-4237
lewis2(at)mailcenter.cmet.af.mil
or capntim(at)aol.com
COML ASEL IA
RV-6AQ #60023
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Allan W. Mojzisik" <prober(at)iwaynet.net> |
------ =_NextPart_000_01BBAAC4.17C02180
Ed,
I'm going to shoot from the hip here on a "common sense" or from =
experience thing. If the crank is hollow and you close both ends with =
plugs then the inevitable moisture problem can occur. The crank is =
metal so large temperature swings will cause it to "sweat" and if you =
don't have fresh oil on that metal then you get RUST. If it is possibel =
to simply get oil on it then do it. You save nothing by enclosing the =
space. Al prober(at)iwaynet.net
----------
From: =
aol.com!EBundy2620(at)matronics.com[SMTP:aol.com!EBundy2620(at)matronics.com]
Sent: Tuesday, September 24, 1996 8:06 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fixed pitch
<< > Ahhhh. That makes a lot more sense. So the pressure chamber for =
the
prop is
> just between those plugs, and the rear plug just keeps the oil from
dumping
> back into the crankcase? But then, why does the rear plug need to be
pierced
> at all for fixed pitch operation?
>=20
=20
You need to puncture the rear plug to permit oil to flow from the =
center of
the main bearing back=20
to the engine. Without this path oil flow to the bearing will be =
reduced.
Most likely a bad=20
thing. >>
Agreed. But no oil can even get into the area to begin with if the oil =
line
is removed and there is a plug in the front part of the case. Or am I
missing something here. (very likely)
Ed
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------ =_NextPart_000_01BBAAC4.17C02180--
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Primers...again ! |
chester razer wrote:
>
> I discovered Marhyde late in my 6A construction.
> ..snip.... I just ordered
> a gallon of the stuff (other house jobs in mind).
Chet,
Don't know where you ordered the Marhyde from. I get it from a local
body shop. Costs a lot less than
other mail order sources. In talking to severl Mail order sites, they
don't like to mail the stuff other than in spray can form.
don mack
rv-6a, Frey fuse jig just showed up
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tom Martin <fairlea(at)execulink.com> |
>I am new in here so this question may have already been covered. I am
>building the wing on my RV6A and have riveted the top skins first. When I
>come to putting on the bottom skins I would like to know if it is not better
>to use the flush head pop rivets that Vans says can be used.
>
>Are Pop rivets as strong as the specified solid rivets? Obviously they are a
>bit heavier, however a correctly seated pop rivet may be stronger than a
>poorly seated solid rivet. On the wing skins it seems as though it will be
>difficult to check on whether a solid rivet has been correctly set. I have
>asked this question to our friends at Vans but they dont like to commit
>themselves on the subject of comparative strengths.
>
>Question number two is what value are you using to torque down the bolts
>holding the ribs to the main spar? The values given in the Preview Manual
>are not clear.
>
I believe that you should use solid rivets. The resale value of the solid
rivets will be much higher. A mirror on a stick will let you check almost
all shop heads.
Tom Martin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "r.acker" <r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Standard Air tools |
>So, next month, before the 10% off coupon HomeBase sent me expires, I'm gonna
>go buy a compressor and a bunch of other big ticket items (band saw, drill
>press, and bench grinder), and I was wondering which of the ordinary items
>they have there I should also get. I notice that they don't sell riveting
>tools. But there's a good supply of drills, air sockets, impact wrenches, air
>hammers, die grinders, cut-off tools, and spray guns. (As well as a tire
>inflator and the simple air nozzle).
DON'T get an air hammer . What I did at HomeBase/Depot with my 10% off
coupons was go up and down every aisle, twice. I looked at everything and
thought if there was a possibility of needing it later. I wound up with
rubber gloves, laquer thinner, brushes, wood, sandpaper, extension cords,
brackets, clamps, sawhorses, storage shelves, corkboard for RV pictures,
etc. etc. By the time I finished I had about $300 worth of "small" ticket
items :( .
>(Oh, and the compressor is a 4.5 HP Cambell-Hausefield, belt drive, 110v
>(convertable to 220) with a built in regulator. Selling for $347. Good
>deal?)
This is the compressor I have, no problems. A die grinder runs the tank
down in a few seconds, but the pump keeps up with it okay. If you have
220VAC and don't mind sacrificing portability, the CH 6hp/60gal(?) standup
is available for a few dollars more, and is a better deal imho.
Rob Acker (r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com)
Rancho Santa Margarita, CA / RV-6Q / N164RA reserved
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | twg(at)wink.ho.lucent.com (Tom Goeddel(x5278)) |
>> I am new in here so this question may have already been covered. I am
>> building the wing on my RV6A and have riveted the top skins first. When I
>> come to putting on the bottom skins I would like to know if it is not better
>> to use the flush head pop rivets that Vans says can be used.
I won't comment on the strength of the pop rivets since it would only be
speculation on my part, but I can add a few thoughts about closing the bottom
wing skins having just completed that process on my last wing (finally!).
I already had the wing walk ribs on the left wing riveted in place when I
heard about the idea of leaving those ribs out until the end and then riveting
them in one at a time to top and bottom skins and the spars. Sounds like that
is not an option for you either.
I found it really wasn't all that hard to
use solid rivets for everything. The key is careful planning of the
riveting sequence. I started at the rear of the wing walk area and
simultaneously riveted up all of the wing walk ribs towards the main spar,
reaching in through the top until my arm wouldn't easily fit in the opening.
The last few rivets on the ribs and those on the main spar can be reached
via the lightening holes from the root end. With an inspection mirror and
flashlight, you can pretty well chack everything as you go. You can also
get in with a rivet gage as long as you do it as you go - don't wait until the
end to do your inspecting. I also found I could press my finger tip on the
shop head and it would leave a nice clean imprint that was useful for checking
if a rivet was under driven or damaged from the bar slipping off an edge (a tip
from a local RV-4 builder - thanks Jim). I would generally use the finger test
at the time each rivet was driven, and then go back (before acces to the area
became too limited) with the mirror and light and check a group of rivets all
at once.
Once the wing walk area is done, you can then close a bay at a time, working
your way from root to tip. I would do the rear spar from inboard to outboard
(peeling back the skin and reaching in from the top),
then up the inboard rib, then finish off the main spar from the adjacent
outboard bay. Again, inspect as you go. The final tip rib can be done through
the lightening holes.
I found this technique worked well enough that I went ahead and used it on
the right wing where I could have used the rib removal method (that probably
works great too - I've just never tried it). Like almost anything on the RV,
there are lots of ways to skin a cat, all of which get the job done.
In general, long skinny arms help in closing the wings - I'm 6', 185 lbs and
didn't have problems, but wouldn't have wanted to be much shorter or wider.
Tom Goeddel
RV-6a (Finally moving on to the fuselage - don't ask how long the wings took)
goeddel@bell-labs.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Timothy J. Etherington" <tjetheri(at)cca.rockwell.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Standard Air tools |
For extra air tools I bought a second cheap air drill. It seems you can never
have too many drills (I have four 2 air, 2 electric) and I often have all of
them operating with different bits, drivers, etc. I have one drill with a #30
and one with a #40 always available. I also recommend a die grinder, even
instead of the bench grinder. The polish wheels are cheaper and I use it and
the bench grinder mostly sets.
Just my experience so far, but I only know have my HS in the jig.
Tim Etherngton, RV-6
tjetheri(at)cca.rockwell.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Timothy J. Etherington" <tjetheri(at)cca.rockwell.com> |
| Subject: | Re: control stick bolts/tilt-up welds |
Kevin,
I have a chance to go to Portland for a trip. How far is North Plains from
Portland?
Thanks.
Tim Etherington
tjetheri(at)cca.rockwell.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Timothy J. Etherington" <tjetheri(at)cca.rockwell.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Alternator Light |
< Bob,
<
< You are talking about connecting an LED, which you are already
< "pushing" with greater than the max rated current, directly to the
< alternator of an airplane (homebuilt, probably with groundloops all
< over it). I would absolutly call these "nasty spikes"! Besides, a
< few milliseconds is an eternity to a semiconductor junction whose
< switching time is measured in nanoseconds. Couple this with a flyby
< of a radar facility (yes, they can couple in a LOT of power) and you
< have a recipe for a failed part. Yes it is only a 10 cent LED, but
<
The nanosecond rise in current will not raise the temp of the device. That is
the real killer. They should be able to be run at their rated current and not
to worry about the quality of power to the degree you hae described.
The application notes have already built in the necessary margin of safety
anyway.
Tim Etherington
tjetheri(at)cca.rockwell.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Osgood <Rick(at)ccc.henn.tec.mn.us> |
| Subject: | Re: Standard Air tools |
Richard Chandler wrote:
>
> So, next month, before the 10% off coupon HomeBase sent me expires, I'm gonna
> go buy a compressor and a bunch of other big ticket items (band saw, drill
> press, and bench grinder), and I was wondering which of the ordinary items
> they have there I should also get. I notice that they don't sell riveting
> tools. But there's a good supply of drills, air sockets, impact wrenches, air
> hammers, die grinders, cut-off tools, and spray guns. (As well as a tire
> inflator and the simple air nozzle).
>
> What should I get on this same 10% off ticket? Is a reversible air drill
> really worth twice to 3x the price of a simple one? I've never been into air
> tools before, so what do I really need for their care and feeding? Necessary
> accessories?
>
> (Oh, and the compressor is a 4.5 HP Cambell-Hausefield, belt drive, 110v
> (convertable to 220) with a built in regulator. Selling for $347. Good
> deal?)
>
> --
> "Wait a minute, you expect us innocent children to climb up dangerous
> scaffolding and paint naked people all over a church? We'll do it!!"
> -- Yakko Warner, Animaniacs
> "Yeah, I've got ADD, you wanna make something of.... oooh, cool. Look!"
I agree with your drill press,bandsaw and grinder. I prefer a cordless
drill to an air drill. I get tired lugging that hose around. I would
highly reccommend a Dremel tool. They are ideal for rounding inner
corners or sanding/grinding tight areas. And as to your air
compressor... Mine is a 4hp, sears brand and I payed about $250.00.
Sears has a tool club you can join for free and it gets you discounts.
Also, many local Sears stores have a backroom of returns, refurbs and
discontinued items for sale at very good prices. I got a belt sander
with side wheel sander for $75.00 (originally $109) and they will dicker
a bit.
good luck
Rick(at)ccc.henn.tec.mn.us
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | firewall!giant!carl |
| Subject: | Standard Air tools |
Richard Chandler wrote:
> (Oh, and the compressor is a 4.5 HP Cambell-Hausefield, belt drive, 110v
> (convertable to 220) with a built in regulator. Selling for $347. Good
> deal?)
I bought a Campbell-Hausefeld belt drive 4.5 HP twin cylinder 26 gal
compressor 2 yrs ago for $359 on sale (included a free 50 foot air hose).
I have not seen this unit advertised any cheaper. I am happy with it.
Carl Weston
Aloha, OR
carl(at)stt3.com
RV-6 wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | firewall!giant!carl |
regarding conversion of CS prop crank to FP prop:
> You need to puncture the rear plug to permit oil to flow from the
If the rear plug is not punctured there is some scenario whereby pressure
can build up within the crank and cause the front plug to be blown out with
disastrous results. I don't remember the details of this but Bill Benedict
at Van's once discussed this at one of our Home Wing meetings. Call him for
clarification.
Carl Weston
Aloha, OR
carl(at)stt3.com
RV-6 wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | chester razer <crazer(at)egyptian.net> |
| Subject: | Re: rv-list Three-blade props |
Richard E Steffens wrote:
>
> Chet Razer wrote:
>
> >Any RVer out there flying an 0-360 with a three blade performance
> prop. I'd like to talk with you about your engine prop combination.
> Please e-mail me direct with a phone number and a good time to call
> and I'll contact you.
>
> chet razer: fuselage kit finished waiting on finish kit.
> Approximately 1400 hours to this point<
>
> I am about to order a prop for my 180 hp -6 and am considering a
> three-bladed Performance prop. It's about $1000 more than the
> two-blade and probably doesn't perform that much better so it must
> really look cool. I, like Chet, would like to know more. Those who
> know or have an opinion please post to the list. Also to Chet, please
> give your email address. Thanks
> Dick Steffens resteffe(at)dpcmail.dukepower.com
Sorry, my address is
crazer(at)egyptian.net
chet razer
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott.Fink(at)Microchip.COM (Scott Fink) |
| Subject: | Alternator Light |
Monte says:
>>First of all, lighten up. I think Bob is uniquely qualified to make
a call
>>to reliably 'push' a rather robust part such as an LED. A career
of >>electrical/electronic FMEA studies at least gives him that
distinction.
I didn't necessarily mean to question his credentials, only a rather
casual answer to someone who does not have the expertise to judge for
himself the risks involved, especially on a flight safety indicator.
>>Secondly, you aren't seriously suggesting that a flyby of a normal
radar >>facility at legal altitudes would measurably contribute to a
blown LED are >>you? That's a myth that needs to not get started
here.
Actually ... yes, on a part which is overstressed, it is called HIRF
(High Intensity Radio Frequency) interference. You also aren't
worried only about "normal" radar facilities. We tested flight deck
equipment to levels that would kill the pilot (commercial aircraft)!
I guess it is comforting to know that even though everyone on board
the A/C may be dead, the FMS would still get the plane over the
destination. You are right though, I really don't want to start that
thread in a public forum, if you would like to discuss it further,
EMAIL me directly.
Scott Fink
RV6
scott.fink(at)microchip.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MiDiBu <midibu(at)hsv.mindspring.com> |
Sorry, that should be Boeing. Wrong mail list.
But that's the sound that went off when I logged in and went to look at my
RV-list mail. No mail. Wow, I've just decided to order the tail kit and no
mail. Can't somebody start a flame war or something? I know I was
following the wing-tank sealer stuff.
And after all, I'm building a -8. That ought to get at least a nibble.
Mike Weller
midibu(at)hsv.mindspring.com (preferred) or mike.weller(at)msfc.nasa.gov
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan Boudro <dboudro(at)nmia.com> |
| Subject: | Fixed Pitch Prop's |
Ok, guys I talked to the man. I called Mike Caldera at Lycoming (717)
327-7098 (you have to have a model/serial number before they'll talk to you).
I have an O-320-D1A shipped directly from the factory (through Van's) and
I was very concerned about this freeze plug question.
Mike Caldera said all O-320-D1A's are set up for constant speed props
when they leave the factory. If you want to use them for a fixed pitch
installation you need to follow a service bulletin (he is
sending it to me and I will post the number when I get it). The reason
for this is that you will blow the front seal right out since oil enters
the crank via the front bearing and with no hole in the rear seal there
is approx. 80 lbs pressure on the front seal. He then asked me how many
hours I had on the engine and I said 90 hours. He could not believe that
front seal was still in place. He said they usually blow in less than 2hrs.
He then said he wanted to go to the factory floor and check this out.
15 min. later he called me back and
said that as long as the plate in the rear of the engine is not removed
and the external oil line is left in place (not removed and plugged) oil
will return via this oil line. THIS IS NOT THE OFFICIAL LYCOMING
RECOMMENDATION. The offical recommended process is to remove the
external oil line, put a flat plate on the accessory housing where the
governor adaptor is, remove the front plug. The rear plug should have a
3/16" hole or larger punched in it or if loose removed altogether.
A new plug is to be placed in front. he recommends Non-hardening PVC, and
placing a 16" ball peen hammer (flat side) on the plug and striking it
with a 12" ball peen several times till it feels 'solid'.
I was always curious why the plate on the rear accessory housing was put on
with a zillion washers between the plate and the accessory housing.
There is a governor adaptor in there ready to accept the pump I think
(haven't taken this off).
Anyway, the bottom line is, the engine can be used as is with a fixed
pitch prop (governor adaptor/rear oil line in place) IMHO. If conversion
to a constant speed is desired it will be a little simpler if things
are left alone. This one had me worried for awhile.
Dan Boudro
RV-4 N9167Z
Albuquerque, NM
dboudro(at)nmia.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dr John Cocker <jcocker(at)medhumor.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Mixture controls |
Bob, I have been going through the problems of connecting controls, and as
you say it gets more and more complicated. I ordered the throttle control
from Van's and it fits well. I measured and ordered the mixture and prop
controls from Aircraft Spruce, and they arrived exactly as I ordered the.
Unfortunately I didn't know that you had to specify if you wanted the
'bulkhead' ends, so I was supplied with the threaded rod ends. This meant
that the mixture control does not fit.
I have had to order the one with the wire end, so I can cut it to size. I
assume that I can attach the outer cable with an Adele clamp, and, as you
say, the collette is made for a different size wire. This leaves the "Bug"
end as the only option.
Incidentally, how do you attach the bug end ? A
It would be best for it to swivel, but any way I fit it, it seems to lock.
Problems, problems, but then it we didn't like solving problems, we would
be walking rather than flying.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jflahert(at)elmer.tci.com (John Flaherty) |
I was wondering if there were any Denverish folks flying to the Burlington
RV fly in that might need to fill a seat with balast. Next choice, I'll rent
a plane and could "plane" pool if others are interested.
John Flaherty
(I live close to tri-county)
flaherty.john(at)tcinc.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dr John Cocker <jcocker(at)medhumor.com> |
Last week Joan Thomson of Peterborough Ontario flew her RV6A for the
first time. Joan says she hadn't used a screwdriver before she started the
RV, so finally finishing is a great credit to her.
John Cocker.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rich Klee <Rich_Klee(at)ccm.fm.intel.com> |
| Subject: | 6A (50%done) & O320 & tools for sale |
I have been forced to give up my project, here is what is for sale:
1.) 6A kits - slider option 320 conical mount - all parts included
Done: Tail Feathers - complete w/all fiberglass glassed in.
Wings - All Al work done (tanks Pro-Sealed and tested)
Fuselage - ready to come out of Jig.
Note: Comparable completion stage would be the Fast Build c
kit. At this stage could be converted into a 6 easily.
2.) Engine - O-320 -A2B with forward mounted carb sump, Hollow crank,
Narrow deck cylinders, 150hp and all AD's implemented.
Note: No Log books, but has been completely disassembled
Magnifluxed, and Zyglowed and measured ( all tolerances fall within
factory limits (NOT service limits)) and have all receipts showing
new parts and services performed (about $2500).
3.) All tools ( mainly Avery - about $1300), but if you have nothing,
the bandsaw, compressor, grinder... must go too.
$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$
Would like too sell as a package - $24K, another $1K would get you the
compressor, band saw, grinder, benches, drill press, and anything else
you may need to finish this.
Separately: 6A -$ 13K, O320 - $12K, Tools - everything -$2K
Now all you need is a Garage and UNDERSTANDING wife/SO.
=======================================================================
Rich Klee 715 19th St. #3
rich_klee(at)ccm.fm.intel.com Sacramento, CA 95614
work (916) 356-6786 home(916) 441-6381
=======================================================================
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Primers...again ! |
| From: | Mike Kukulski <kukulski(at)indirect.com> |
Rob Acker wrote:
>The quickbuild kit is primered with Sherwin Williams Wash Primer. For the
>few things left to prime, I think it might be simpler to use spray cans
>instead of purchasing bulk primer and then mixing/cleaning.
>
>I found spray cans of Marhyde...any thoughts on interaction between the two
>types (other thoughts welcome as well)?
I've used a mix of DuPont Variprime (good), Desoto Titanine epoxy primer
(good - available/used in England), Three Systems water based primer
(ptoooey!!), PPG DP-48 epoxy primer (my favorite), and Marhyde (good).
With proper surface prep, which varied for me from wet Scotchbriting
(okay) to complete acid etch and alodining (mo' better), all of these
primers adhered well to both the aluminum and to each other with no
adverse reactions.
Enough on primer from me.
Painting the wings (not as much fun as I expected)
Mike Kukulski
kukulski(at)indirect.com
RV-4 N96MK
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mccarthy(at)bconnex.net (sherald mccarthy) |
| Subject: | Re: Standard Air tools |
Gentlemen, I will go you one better. I just bought the same compressor at
Wal-mart for $250. on sale from the regular price of $357. in Rochester NY.
There are bargains to be had out there. Money saved to spend on hand tools.
Sherald McCarthy
mccarthy@bconnex
(starting to buy tools)
>Richard Chandler wrote:
>
>> (Oh, and the compressor is a 4.5 HP Cambell-Hausefield, belt drive, 110v
>> (convertable to 220) with a built in regulator. Selling for $347. Good
>> deal?)
>
>I bought a Campbell-Hausefeld belt drive 4.5 HP twin cylinder 26 gal
>compressor 2 yrs ago for $359 on sale (included a free 50 foot air hose).
>I have not seen this unit advertised any cheaper. I am happy with it.
>
>Carl Weston
>Aloha, OR
>carl(at)stt3.com
>
>RV-6 wings
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Angiulo <mikeang(at)MICROSOFT.com> |
Oh, yeah? Well what kind of primer are you using? Do you have a belt
driven compressor? Have you thought about including a heavy knife in your
cockpit so you can crack out of your canopy if you flip over? How about
off-color Van's jokes, know any? Have any commercial announcements for the
list? Come on if you want to start a flame war, you can do better than
this...
-Mike
----------
From: MiDiBu[SMTP:hsv.mindspring.com!midibu(at)matronics.com]
Sent: Wednesday, September 25, 1996 1:03 PM
Subject: RV-List: Boing!
Sorry, that should be Boeing. Wrong mail list.
But that's the sound that went off when I logged in and went to look at my
RV-list mail. No mail. Wow, I've just decided to order the tail kit and
no
mail. Can't somebody start a flame war or something? I know I was
following the wing-tank sealer stuff.
And after all, I'm building a -8. That ought to get at least a nibble.
Mike Weller
midibu(at)hsv.mindspring.com (preferred) or mike.weller(at)msfc.nasa.gov
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cecil Hatfield / Fourstar Printing <cecil(at)alto1.altonet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: control stick bolts/tilt-up welds |
Tim, North Plains is due west about 40 minutes from the
Portland airport. Be sure to ask to go thru the factory.
-------------------------------------
Cecil Hatfield
cecil@altonet
RV-6A (wings)
Date: 09/25/96
Time: 17:06:17
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles L. Cotton" <clcotton(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Standard Air tools |
Richard:
Sam's Club sells a 5 hp 220 volt compressor for $299 (I think the
brand name is Black Max); Builder's Square has a 6 hp. 220 volt for
#379 (don't recall the brand name.) I have never used either of these,
so I can't comment on their quality/reliability. I am about to buy the
6 hp, for use on my Lancair ES. It won't get as much use sanding and
cutting as driving rivits, so some of the other guys on the list can
probably help you more. (I know, what is he doing on this list? What
can I say, I like RV's too!)
I've looked at the output of these units and was surprised at the
diffenence made by 1 hp. Be sure to check the output required by the
tools you are going to use, and get a compressor that can supply it!
Happy Hunting:
Chas.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Lewis <lewis2(at)mailcenter.cmet.af.mil> |
I've been practicing with the Rolo Flare, trying to flare 1/4" aluminum
pitot/static tubing. If I try to make the kind of flare I think I should,
where I drive the cone until it pushes the tubing against the die (or
nearly so), I almost always get some flaked aluminum stuck between the
cone and the face that I'm flaring. The result is that when the cone
backs out, it scores the aluminum. This seems to happen much less often
if I don't drive the flare so deep. I don't get as wide a face in the
flared aluminum, but I don't get the scoring on the face either. Applying
the "screw the fittings on tight and blow hard" test seems to show that
the smaller flares hold pressure. Of course, the larger ones with the
scoring seem to hold pressure as well.
Fixes I've tried: Clean the cone well after each flare. Oil the cone
with light oil for every flare. Think evil thoughts about the flare.
Nothing seems to help much, except accepting a smaller flare. Any
comments? Anybody else had the persistent scoring problems?
Thanks for your advice/comments
Tim
Finished with the innards and control surfaces of the first wing, moving
on to the top skin and wing tip.
-------------------------------
Capt Tim Lewis
Kelly AFB, TX 210-442-4237
lewis2(at)mailcenter.cmet.af.mil
or capntim(at)aol.com
COML ASEL IA
RV-6AQ #60023
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | chester razer <crazer(at)egyptian.net> |
I just found some info on the NTSB home page on the
September 17 RV-4 crash in Muncie Indiana. Apparently the
right horizontal stabilizer separated from the airframe and
caused the aircraft to crash resulting in fatal injuries to
the occupants. Another database search revealed the
aircraft was built in 1996. Anyone have any details on how
the right h/stab could separate.
chet razer
crazer(at)egyptian.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <MAILER-DAEMON(at)szl.afres.af.mil> |
| Subject: | Undeliverable Message |
charset=ISO-8859-1
Subject: RV-List: Undeliverable Message
Message not delivered to recipients below. Press F1 for help with VNM
error codes.
VNM3043: Jim Preston@303FS_DOT@Whiteman
VNM3043 -- MAILBOX IS FULL
The message cannot be delivered because the
recipient's mailbox contains the maximum number of
messages, as set by the system administrator. The
recipient must delete some messages before any
other messages can be delivered.
The maximum message limit for a user's mailbox is
10,000. The default message limit is 1000 messages.
Administrators can set message limits using the
Mailbox Settings function available in the
Manage User menu (MUSER).
When a user's mailbox reaches the limit, the
user must delete some of the messages before
the mailbox can accept any more incoming messages.
UNDEFINEDTo:
Subject: Re: RV-List: control stick bolts/tilt-up welds
Message not delivered to recipients below. Press F1 for help with VNM
error codes.
VNM3043: Jim Preston@303FS_DOT@Whiteman
VNM3043 -- MAILBOX IS FULL
The message cannot be delivered because the
recipient's mailbox contains the maximum number of
messages, as set by the system administrator. The
recipient must delete some messages before any
other messages can be delivered.
The maximum message limit for a user's mailbox is
10,000. The default message limit is 1000 messages.
Administrators can set message limits using the
Mailbox Settings function available in the
Manage User menu (MUSER).
When a user's mailbox reaches the limit, the
user must delete some of the messages before
the mailbox can accept any more incoming messages.
UNDEFINEDTim, North Plains is due west about 40 minutes from the
Portland airport. Be sure to ask to go thru the factory.
-------------------------------------
Cecil Hatfield
cecil@altonet
RV-6A (wings)
Date: 09/25/96
Time: 17:06:17
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Chandler" <mauser(at)Claris.COM> |
| Subject: | Re: &^%# Rolo Flare |
> Fixes I've tried: Clean the cone well after each flare. Oil the
> cone with light oil for every flare. Think evil thoughts about the
> flare. Nothing seems to help much, except accepting a smaller flare.
> Any comments? Anybody else had the persistent scoring problems?
How about deburring the end of the tube before flaring?
--
"Wait a minute, you expect us innocent children to climb up dangerous
scaffolding and paint naked people all over a church? We'll do it!!"
-- Yakko Warner, Animaniacs
"Yeah, I've got ADD, you wanna make something of.... oooh, cool. Look!"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)navix.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Mixture controls |
>Bob, I have been going through the problems of connecting controls, and as
>you say it gets more and more complicated. I ordered the throttle control
>from Van's and it fits well. I measured and ordered the mixture and prop
>controls from Aircraft Spruce, and they arrived exactly as I ordered the.
>Unfortunately I didn't know that you had to specify if you wanted the
>'bulkhead' ends, so I was supplied with the threaded rod ends. This meant
>that the mixture control does not fit.
>
>I have had to order the one with the wire end, so I can cut it to size. I
>assume that I can attach the outer cable with an Adele clamp, and, as you
>say, the collette is made for a different size wire. This leaves the "Bug"
>end as the only option.
>Incidentally, how do you attach the bug end ? A
>It would be best for it to swivel, but any way I fit it, it seems to lock.
>
>Problems, problems, but then it we didn't like solving problems, we would
>be walking rather than flying.
John, I thought this question would have generated a little more
discussion. I ordered a wire-end vernier control that you can cut to
length. I think the hole in the mixture control arm is 1/4" but I put in a
bushing reducing the diameter to 3/16" so I could make a "B" nut out of a
3/16" bolt but I can't remember for sure. Do you (or anyone else) know if
the mixture control arm has a 1/4" hole (carb is 4SPA)?
One option to making a "B" nut out of a bolt is th "B" nut that is in the
ACS catalog for 1995-1996 on page 131. I've got one on my carb heat control
arm and it works well. Bob Skinner RV-6 BSkinner(at)krvn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
<< Subj: RE: RV-List: Boing!
Oh, yeah? Well what kind of primer are you using? Do you have a belt
driven compressor? Have you thought about including a heavy knife in your
cockpit so you can crack out of your canopy if you flip over? How about
off-color Van's jokes, know any? Have any commercial announcements for the
list? Come on if you want to start a flame war, you can do better than
this...
-Mike
>>
To Mike, and all,
I thought a "flame war" would address the size and shape of the "flames"
painted along the side of the cowl/fuselage.
???
Jim Ayers
LOM M332A RV-3 N47RV Maroon Marauder (what color flames go good with
Maroon??)
LesDrag(at)aol.com
Thousand Oaks, Ca. USA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)navix.net> |
| Subject: | Re: &^%# Rolo Flare |
> I've been practicing with the Rolo Flare, trying to flare 1/4" aluminum
>pitot/static tubing. If I try to make the kind of flare I think I should,
>where I drive the cone until it pushes the tubing against the die (or
>nearly so), I almost always get some flaked aluminum stuck between the
>cone and the face that I'm flaring. The result is that when the cone
>backs out, it scores the aluminum. This seems to happen much less often
>if I don't drive the flare so deep. I don't get as wide a face in the
>flared aluminum, but I don't get the scoring on the face either. Applying
>the "screw the fittings on tight and blow hard" test seems to show that
>the smaller flares hold pressure. Of course, the larger ones with the
>scoring seem to hold pressure as well.
> Fixes I've tried: Clean the cone well after each flare. Oil the cone
>with light oil for every flare. Think evil thoughts about the flare.
>Nothing seems to help much, except accepting a smaller flare. Any
>comments? Anybody else had the persistent scoring problems?
>Thanks for your advice/comments
>Tim
Tim, Did you make sure to clean up the cut end of the tubing? I make sure
there are no burrs on the inside or outside of the tubing using the
de-burring tool and the Scotch Brite wheel. Make sure the cone has no
damage, maybe use more oil on cone and inside of tubing. You might take
your Rolo Flare to your local mechanic and have him try it to see if it's
the tool or technique. Bob Skinner RV-6 BSkinner(at)krvn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Alternate Wing Root Fairings supplier |
Hi All,
When I talked to Sam James about the wing root fairings he provides, they
sounded pretty nice.
Anyone have any comments about the James Aviation Wing Root Fairing
installation, pro or con??
Jim Ayers
LOM M332A RV-3 N47RV Maroon Marauder
LesDrag(at)aol.com
Thousand Oaks, Ca. USA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)navix.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Mixture controls |
>Bob; I have the vernier type on my mixture. I can't remember if it has the
>yoke or the rod end bearing on the end of it, but it is not the bug fitting.
>Somewhere in the back of my mind, it seems like there was an interference
>problem with the yoke, causing me to go rod end bearing, but don't depend on
>that. I would have to go look at it to be sure. One thing for sure, the
>bracket to hold the end of the cable housing is a real Rube Goldberg on
>mine. The distance from the end of the cable housing is different so there
>is one bracket length for the throttle end, another for the mixture end. I
>have Van's throttle bracket, but it was good just for starters, the end that
>turns up was no where near what the throttle cable required, so I have
>angles extended etc and built up and use Vans bracket only as a mount that
>is connected to the carb. housing. My cable does have the swivel end on it.
>You probably know that you can special order and get the cable with a
>firewall fitting where ever you want it.
>Do expect that the mixture will have some 'reversal' slack in it, just like
>the list discussed about the elevator trim. Mine is between 1/2 and 3/4
>turn for the reversal.
>You are right about the measurement being more critical, but it is mostly
>from the mounting bracket to the mixture lever on the carb., that's why my
>bracket is a little funny to look at. I elected not to get a firewall
>fitting on my cable, so that I could move it back and forth in the firewall
>in case I needed to, didn't trust my measuring to be within that inch or so
>that the firewall fitting permits..
>Hope this helps.
>John D
>John Darby RV6 N61764 flying
>johnd@our-town.com
John, Thanks for the reply. At first, I was going to use the rod end
fitting but, as I remember, I think there was interference with it (with my
rachet control). I ordered the vernier with the wire end but now that I
have it I'm not sure I want to use it. Do you remember, is the hole in the
mixture 1/4". I think it is and I think I put a bushing in it to reduce it
to 3/16" so I could make a "B" nut. I'm thinking of going to a control with
the threaded end. The problem is finding all of the different fittings that
work together. Thanks, Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: First Flight |
<< Subj: RV-List: First Flight
Last week Joan Thomson of Peterborough Ontario flew her RV6A for the
first time. Joan says she hadn't used a screwdriver before she started the
RV, so finally finishing is a great credit to her.
John Cocker.
>>
Congratulations to Joan.
I ran a paper copy of this to show my wife.
Jim Ayers
LOM M332A RV-3 N47RV Maroon Marauder
LesDrag(at)aol.com
Thousands Oaks, Ca. USA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David W.S. King" <KingD(at)direct.ca> |
>Oh, yeah? Well what kind of primer are you using? Do you have a belt
>driven compressor? Have you thought about including a heavy knife in your
>cockpit so you can crack out of your canopy if you flip over? How about
>off-color Van's jokes, know any? Have any commercial announcements for the
>list? Come on if you want to start a flame war, you can do better than
>this...
>
>-Mike
Naa Mike if you want to start a war you have to ask a question like this:
I want to build a 6 from plans only anyone have a materials list?
Now if you watch everyone will say is cheaper to buy kit etc, but no one
will even attempt to supply a list. ;-]
And of course you should add something like I used latex house paint and a
a roller to paint my airplane how do i get it shiney?
Cheers
Dave
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Boing! (flames!) <;^) |
Jim:
I think I have know you now for about 8 years. I think that YELLOW and
ORANGE flames would look GREAT but ask Rocky. He has a better eye for color
than I do!
Gary
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: First Flight |
Jim:
I think that your daughter should see that. She is still helping build that
-4 in the garage isn't she?
Gary
RV-6 N157GS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kevin lane <kevinlane(at)sprintmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Standard Air tools |
Richard Chandler wrote:
>
> So, next month, before the 10% off coupon HomeBase sent me expires, I'm gonna
> go buy a compressor and a bunch of other big ticket items (band saw, drill
> press, and bench grinder), <| From: | "Peter Bennett" <bennett(at)healey.com.au> |
| Subject: | Re: &^%# Rolo Flare |
Empathy, empathy. Had the same problem. Definite improvement if you
back off a couple of times during the flare, just as you do when
tapping a thread. I can usually get a perfect flare this way. Try it
and please report back.
Peter Bennett
Sydney Australia
RV6 fus rear top skins
> Fixes I've tried: Clean the cone well after each flare. Oil the cone
> with light oil for every flare. Think evil thoughts about the flare.
> Nothing seems to help much, except accepting a smaller flare. Any
> comments? Anybody else had the persistent scoring problems?
>
> Thanks for your advice/comments
>
> Tim
>
> Finished with the innards and control surfaces of the first wing, moving
> on to the top skin and wing tip.
> -------------------------------
> Capt Tim Lewis
> Kelly AFB, TX 210-442-4237
> lewis2(at)mailcenter.cmet.af.mil
> or capntim(at)aol.com
> COML ASEL IA
> RV-6AQ #60023
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Alternate Wing Root Fairings supplier |
| From: | wstucklen1(at)juno.com (Frederic W Stucklen) |
Hi all:
I just received mine yesterday. They seemed to fit into place OK.
Installation doesn't look that dificult, but I won't get to it until next month.......
Fred Stucklen RV-6A N925RV
wstucklen1(at)juno.com
>Hi All,
>
>When I talked to Sam James about the wing root fairings he provides, they
>sounded pretty nice.
>
>Anyone have any comments about the James Aviation Wing Root Fairing
>installation, pro or con??
>
>Jim Ayers
>LOM M332A RV-3 N47RV Maroon Marauder
>LesDrag(at)aol.com
>Thousand Oaks, Ca. USA
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | spjohnsn(at)ix.netcom.com (Stephen Paul Johnson) |
| Subject: | Bucking Bars Again |
Hi all,
It turns out that the best bar for the HS is #00610 from Avery. I
learned this after talking with them on the phone. Although it is not
apparent from the illustration in their catalog, every surface is
finished and can be used for bucking. I believe it's the one in the
Orndorff video. I've been using it with good luck. By the way, I
ordered a 2X gun and found that the bucking bar is easier to control
for me than with the 3X. I also found that the way to keep the bar
parallel with the skin and perpendicular to the rivet was to hold it
with about 1/4" of my fingers protruding and touching the skin.
Steve Johnson
RV-8 #00121
spjohnsn(at)ix.netcom.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John E Musser <jemusser(at)tenet.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: Standard Air tools |
Something I've found to be true at Sears recently...
It seems that the sales people are "empowered" a bit more on price
negotiation. The last few purchases I've made on tools and equipment
were for items I "needed" but weren't on sale! (typical) After a little
dickering and commenting that maybe I should wait 'til it was on sale
brought an immediate offer for a price reduction. (10 to 15 percent)
They didn't even have to go "ask the supervisor/sales manager/whatever
for permission...
John
On Wed, 25 Sep 1996, Rick Osgood wrote:
> Richard Chandler wrote:
> >
> > So, next month, before the 10% off coupon HomeBase sent me expires, I'm gonna
> > go buy a compressor and a bunch of other big ticket items (band saw, drill
> > press, and bench grinder), and I was wondering which of the ordinary items
> > they have there I should also get. I notice that they don't sell riveting
> > tools. But there's a good supply of drills, air sockets, impact wrenches,
air
> > hammers, die grinders, cut-off tools, and spray guns. (As well as a tire
> > inflator and the simple air nozzle).
> >
> > What should I get on this same 10% off ticket? Is a reversible air drill
> > really worth twice to 3x the price of a simple one? I've never been into air
> > tools before, so what do I really need for their care and feeding? Necessary
> > accessories?
> >
> > (Oh, and the compressor is a 4.5 HP Cambell-Hausefield, belt drive, 110v
> > (convertable to 220) with a built in regulator. Selling for $347. Good
> > deal?)
> >
> > --
> > "Wait a minute, you expect us innocent children to climb up dangerous
> > scaffolding and paint naked people all over a church? We'll do it!!"
> > -- Yakko Warner, Animaniacs
> > "Yeah, I've got ADD, you wanna make something of.... oooh, cool. Look!"
>
>
> I agree with your drill press,bandsaw and grinder. I prefer a cordless
> drill to an air drill. I get tired lugging that hose around. I would
> highly reccommend a Dremel tool. They are ideal for rounding inner
> corners or sanding/grinding tight areas. And as to your air
> compressor... Mine is a 4hp, sears brand and I payed about $250.00.
>
> Sears has a tool club you can join for free and it gets you discounts.
> Also, many local Sears stores have a backroom of returns, refurbs and
> discontinued items for sale at very good prices. I got a belt sander
> with side wheel sander for $75.00 (originally $109) and they will dicker
> a bit.
>
> good luck
> Rick(at)ccc.henn.tec.mn.us
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris Ruble <cruble(at)cisco.com> |
| Subject: | Re: &^%# Rolo Flare |
Use Boelube and make the flare in short- two steps forward one step back
twists of the screw.
Chris
>
> Fixes I've tried: Clean the cone well after each flare. Oil the cone
> with light oil for every flare. Think evil thoughts about the flare.
> Nothing seems to help much, except accepting a smaller flare. Any
> comments? Anybody else had the persistent scoring problems?
>
> Thanks for your advice/comments
>
> Tim
>
> Finished with the innards and control surfaces of the first wing, moving
> on to the top skin and wing tip.
> -------------------------------
> Capt Tim Lewis
> Kelly AFB, TX 210-442-4237
> lewis2(at)mailcenter.cmet.af.mil
> or capntim(at)aol.com
> COML ASEL IA
> RV-6AQ #60023
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rust47rg(at)one.net |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List:RV-4 fatal,Muncie |
I hangared with the aircraft involved. I will try to give you the facts as
I know them at this time.
Dale Dimmich was flying an RV-4 that he Co-Owned with another pilot. Dale
did not build the 4, but was a partner in the project. The co-owner was the
builder.
Dale apparantly was giving a ride to a friend he had picked up at Muncie.
This person, not known to me, was apparantly also a pilot.
I accompanied the co-owner to the crash site at his request Wednesday
9/18/96. The NTSB had left the site but the State Police were still doing
their investigation. The Police stated that they had interviewed one person
that said they saw the accident. The report was vague. It was "I looked up
and saw the aircraft about 4 times as high as the nearby trees going
straight then looked back and saw it circle into the ground". The
preliminary NTSB report stated the aircraft had been seen doing aerobatics.
The aircraft impacted the ground in a soybean field at a high angle of
attack with the nose and right wing taking the bulk of the impact. Both
occupants were killed on impact. The debris was located in a very small
area. The tail had been cut off the aircraft and removed from the site by
the NTSB for further study. Part of the right horozontal stab was reported
by the NTSB to be found 150 feet from the main debris area. I have not seen
the tail or stab so I couldn't comment on their condition.
There was no fire but both tanks ruptured and the fuel sprayed in a pattern
that could be seen on the soybean plants as they were wilting from the gas.
The instruments were destroyed totally. The G meter was destroyed, no
telltale marks were apparant and the officials did not take any instruments
with them.
Dale was a professional pilot, ATP, Single & multi, instrument, balloon,
glider, CFI, CFI II and was also current in a Grumman Tiger, a 310, and the
RV. Weather was apparantly not a factor.
The 4 was equiped with an IO-320 and a full inverted system. It had about
60 hours TT on the airframe and was built by a multiple RV builder. The
engine had about 350 hours on it since a documented overhaul. I saw the
aircraft throughout it's construction and can say IMHO it was very well built.
Exactly what occured prior to the crash will probably never be learned as
there are no eyewitness accounts offering details of the event. We can only
speculate.
Regards:
Rusty Gossard
N47RG RV-4 Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KennyCobb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Any Builders In Monterey, Ca (chatter) |
I will be in Monterey on Sat. 9-28-96 visiting sister in-law
(spinster)
seeking refuge at airport any -6 builders there? :-)
KennyCobb(at)aol.com
Ken Crabtree, Bakersfield, Ca
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6junkie(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Performance Props |
<< Any RVer out there flying an 0-360 with a three blade
performance prop. I'd like to talk with you about your
engine prop combination. Please e-mail me direct with a
phone number and a good time to call and I'll contact you. >>
Chet,
I have an O-320 with a performance 3 blade prop. I have a lot of test data
on the thing. If you want to talk about it call me at work (212.441.1225) or
home (908.537.7550).
First off, the prop looks great. It seems to be real fast down low (below
3000') turning about 2750 rpm which yeilds 202 mph. Up high (7000') it will
turn about 2650 rpm and true out at 190 mph.
Climb isn't so great (by RV standards). The prop cavatates at slow speeds
(less than 25) and doesn't seem to want to climb below 100 mph. Solo It will
climb at 1500 - 1600 fpm @ 120 mph however only about 1000 fpm at 90 mph.
Gross is about 1100 - 1200 fast and 800 slow. Inital climb never seems to
be that good and it climbs very flat on take-off. Like I said, once the
speed is up all is normal.
The prop is very smooth and quiet. Combined with the Vetterman X-over exhaust
the plane has a really cool sound from the ground.
Gary Corde
RV-6 N211GC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Todd <tmrv6(at)pop.erols.com> |
I seem to be having a low mic output problem with my TKM MX-11 radio
and Flightcom 403 Intercom combo. I can hear radio & cockpit conversation
fine. Cockpit conversation is fine, But my radio output to the world is
wayyy down in the mud. I talked to the tech. at TKM and he informed me that
typically their radio doesn't work well with intercoms.
Greattt. He also informed me that some Avionics shops have figured a way to
fix the problem (mine didn't). As you may have gathered, he wasn't much help.
Has anyone had this problem or solved it?? I assume somebody must
have made this work since Van sells or has sold both units.
Thanks for your help in advance.
Todd N92TM RV-6 75+ hours.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russ Werner" <russ(at)maui.net> |
| Subject: | RV4 HS/VS Relationship question |
It is quite a while before this really matters, but it is nagging me.
On drawing 30 (Empanage attach details) it appears to clearly show a
bend in the HS-410, to pick up the angle of the front spar of the VS.
I can't find anything in the plans or directions (sometimes I'm blinded
by the obvious)regarding any bend in the HS-410. My 3a drawing
certainly doesn't show any bend in the drawing of the part (except
the bends regarding spar sweep). If, in fact, this is supposed to be
bent back, when, where, and how far?
Can someone steer me to the answer or point out my brain
mis-alignment!
Aloha,
Russ Werner
russ(at)maui.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
| Subject: | Re: TKM MX-11 Radio |
In a Citabria I used to be part owner in, we got a TKM MX-11 and hooked
it up to a portable Sigtronics intercom that was more or less
permanently wire-tied to the aircraft. Normally it worked fine, but we
did have two problems early on:
1) Within the first couple of weeks it started having intermittent
problems (I don't remember exactly what). We took it out, took the
cover off, and found that some of the SOCKETED chips were loose. It
doesn't seem to me that socketed chips are a good idea in a high
vibration environment but hey, what do _I_ know.... Anyhow,
re-seating the chips seemed to fix the problem.
2) After a couple of months it started working really lousy
intermittently, mostly the radio recieve portion as I recall --
broken up and lots of static, especially at high RPMs. We went
through all sorts of hoops trying to track down alternator noise,
antenna connections, etc. but finally we just tried swapping a
different radio (same model) in there which worked fine, so we knew
it was the radio. We sent it back, they fixed some chip that had
gone bad as I recall. It was under warranty and they fixed it pretty
fast.
After that it worked fine. In normal operation it was hooked to the
Sigtronics portable intercom, and we never had any problems associated
with that.
Randall Henderson, RV-6
randall(at)edt.com
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
Better check your server, cuz I'm buried in daily mail from the rv server...
Denny
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "r.acker" <r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Free to good home...RV-6/6A manual pitch trim ring (as found in
Avery/Cleaveland catalogs). I've opted to go with electric, first private
e-mail response w/address gets it.
Rob Acker (r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com)
Rancho Santa Margarita, CA / RV-6Q / N164RA reserved
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tom Martin <fairlea(at)execulink.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV4 HS/VS Relationship question |
>It is quite a while before this really matters, but it is nagging me.
>
>On drawing 30 (Empanage attach details) it appears to clearly show a
>bend in the HS-410, to pick up the angle of the front spar of the VS.
> I can't find anything in the plans or directions (sometimes I'm blinded
>by the obvious)regarding any bend in the HS-410. My 3a drawing
>certainly doesn't show any bend in the drawing of the part (except
>the bends regarding spar sweep). If, in fact, this is supposed to be
>bent back, when, where, and how far?
>
>Can someone steer me to the answer or point out my brain
>mis-alignment!
>
>Aloha,
>
>Russ Werner
>russ(at)maui.net
>
I would wait until you mount the tail to the fuse. At that time it will be
evident what angle you need to make the verticle stab and the HS-410 mate
properely. In other words just bend it till it fits.
Tom Martin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil (Mike Wills) |
| Subject: | Re: RV4 HS/VS Relationship question |
It is a bend and shim to fit operation when the empennage gets
drilled/attached to the fuse.
Mike Wills
RV-4 building wings
willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil
>It is quite a while before this really matters, but it is nagging me.
>
>On drawing 30 (Empanage attach details) it appears to clearly show a
>bend in the HS-410, to pick up the angle of the front spar of the VS.
> I can't find anything in the plans or directions (sometimes I'm blinded
>by the obvious)regarding any bend in the HS-410. My 3a drawing
>certainly doesn't show any bend in the drawing of the part (except
>the bends regarding spar sweep). If, in fact, this is supposed to be
>bent back, when, where, and how far?
>
>Can someone steer me to the answer or point out my brain
>mis-alignment!
>
>Aloha,
>
>Russ Werner
>russ(at)maui.net
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ray Murphy, Jr." <murphy(at)mail.coos.or.us> |
| Subject: | Re: control stick bolts/tilt-up welds |
North Plains is about 20 miles from Portland International. I've been there
you wrote:
>Kevin,
>I have a chance to go to Portland for a trip. How far is North Plains from
>Portland?
>
>Thanks.
>
>Tim Etherington
>tjetheri(at)cca.rockwell.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Mixture controls |
A>John, Thanks for the reply. At first, I was going to use the rod end
>fitting but, as I remember, I think there was interference with it (with my
>rachet control). I ordered the vernier with the wire end but now that I
>have it I'm not sure I want to use it. Do you remember, is the hole in the
>mixture 1/4". I think it is and I think I put a bushing in it to reduce it
>to 3/16" so I could make a "B" nut. I'm thinking of going to a control with
>the threaded end. The problem is finding all of the different fittings that
>work together. Thanks, Bob
>
Bob; sorry, my memory isn't that long, don't know if 3/16 or 1/4, but I know
that I didn't put a bushing in it.
John D
John Darby RV6 N61764 flying
johnd@our-town.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: bucking bars |
>Howdy,
> Has anyone tried a chisel in places like the leading edge to out on
>the tip? I can't seem to get in there.
>
>Tim
>RV-4 empennage
>
Tim, I did use a log splitter. Laugh or sneer, but it worked for me on the
few I had to use it to set. I also used a ball peen hammer a few times.
Laugh!! Bob Brashear told me I should replace my 'tractor' tools with
mechanical tools. And the A&P that helps me says he had never seen wrenches
of 13/37 and 7/23 like mine.
John D
John Darby RV6 N61764 flying
johnd@our-town.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: TKM MX-11 Radio |
> I seem to be having a low mic output problem with my TKM MX-11 radio
>and Flightcom 403 Intercom combo. I can hear radio & cockpit conversation
>fine. Cockpit conversation is fine, But my radio output to the world is
>wayyy down in the mud. I talked to the tech. at TKM and he informed me that
>typically their radio doesn't work well with intercoms.
>Greattt. He also informed me that some Avionics shops have figured a way to
>fix the problem (mine didn't). As you may have gathered, he wasn't much help.
> Has anyone had this problem or solved it?? I assume somebody must
>have made this work since Van sells or has sold both units.
>
>Thanks for your help in advance.
>
>Todd N92TM RV-6 75+ hours.
>
Todd; This seems to be the exact same problem I had with mine when first
installed. Don't know for sure about in the mud, I thought that it sounded
'mushy' when I tried to transmit. After talking with the people in Ariz.
and the seller (Gulf Coast Avionics), I sent it to GCA. The one thing that
I know was done was they sent me the insulators for the mic/headset jacks,
and how to install them. It cured my problem. Incidentally, I have the
GCA intercom. The combination has now worked great for over two years. I'm
using a Radio Shack bulkhead fitting and a piece of welding rod out in the
right tip for antenna, and rec/trans up to 150 miles with it.
This problem was discussed some time ago on the list, some people said the
manuf. said DO NOT insulate, so take your pick. Hope this helps rather than
confuse you.
John D
John Darby RV6 N61764 flying
johnd@our-town.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan Boudro <dboudro(at)nmia.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV4 HS/VS Relationship question |
Russ,
I'll try to answer this but it's been awhile (more than a week). There
is a bend just as you describe. When I finished the HS I bent the tongue
back about 5 degrees just to get things started then put it away.
When it came time to attach the VS (after the HS was in place) the bend
was completed to mate with the VS. At that time it will all be obvious!
Put a very slight bend aft if you're so inclined or leave it till final
assembly.
Dan Boudro
RV-4 N9167Z
Albuquerque, NM
dboudro(at)nmia.com
On Thu, 26 Sep 1996, Russ Werner wrote:
> It is quite a while before this really matters, but it is nagging me.
>
> On drawing 30 (Empanage attach details) it appears to clearly show a
> bend in the HS-410, to pick up the angle of the front spar of the VS.
> I can't find anything in the plans or directions (sometimes I'm blinded
> by the obvious)regarding any bend in the HS-410. My 3a drawing
> certainly doesn't show any bend in the drawing of the part (except
> the bends regarding spar sweep). If, in fact, this is supposed to be
> bent back, when, where, and how far?
>
> Can someone steer me to the answer or point out my brain
> mis-alignment!
>
> Aloha,
>
> Russ Werner
> russ(at)maui.net
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)navix.net> |
| Subject: | Re: TKM MX-11 Radio |
> I seem to be having a low mic output problem with my TKM MX-11 radio
>and Flightcom 403 Intercom combo. I can hear radio & cockpit conversation
>fine. Cockpit conversation is fine, But my radio output to the world is
>wayyy down in the mud. I talked to the tech. at TKM and he informed me that
>typically their radio doesn't work well with intercoms.
>Greattt. He also informed me that some Avionics shops have figured a way to
>fix the problem (mine didn't). As you may have gathered, he wasn't much help.
> Has anyone had this problem or solved it?? I assume somebody must
>have made this work since Van sells or has sold both units.
>Todd N92TM RV-6 75+ hours.
Todd, I'm using the TKM with the FlightCom and have had no problems, so far.
Can you by-pass the intercomm and go through the radio, only? I put aux
jacks in my six that go directly to the radio and by pass the intercom and
so could test for an intercom interference problem.
Also, I seem to remember reading somewhere about a similar problem and
that there was some adjustment from the front of the panel of the TKM, but
it might have been about another radio. You might try to talk to another
tech guy a TKM and see if you get a different response. Not having a radio
that works with an intercom seems like a really dumb way to make a radio.
Bob Skinner RV-6 BSkinner(at)krvn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Boing! (flames!) :-) |
<< I think I have know you now for about 8 years. I think that YELLOW and
ORANGE flames would look GREAT but ask Rocky. He has a better eye for color
than I do!
Gary >>
You've probably known Rocky for eight years, also. I thought you knew that
Rocky thinks the only colors that exist are Porsche Red and shades of grey.
However, it did work well for him. The EAA doesn't hand out the outstanding
workmanship awards to everybody that shows up in Oshkosh with their
homebuilt.
Jim Ayers
LOM M332A RV-3 N47RV Maroon Marauder
LesDrag(at)aol.com
Thousand Oaks, Ca. USA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)navix.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Mixture controls |
>Bob; sorry, my memory isn't that long, don't know if 3/16 or 1/4, but I know
>that I didn't put a bushing in it.
>John D
>John Darby RV6 N61764 flying
>johnd@our-town.com
The hole in the mixture control arm is 1/4". I bushed it down to 3/16" so
today took the bushing out and made a "B" nut out of a AN 4 bolt. I got the
vernier installed and am wondering why I didn't do it right off the bat.
Well, the answer is, because I'm a little tight sometimes for my own good.
After using both the rachet and vernier control for mixture, the vernier is
the only way to go, IMO. I'm really happey with my friction lock throttle
control. I would not use the vernier control for a throttle (especially the
one Van's sends out), period.
By the way, I'm going to order the cable end "B" nut that ACS sells for
$6.45. I've got a similar fitting on my carb heat control and I feel that
this is a much better way to attach a wire end than drilling holes in an AN3
or 4 bolt. The ACS "B" should be more secure and be less damaging to the
wire. Bob Skinner RV-6 BSkinner(at)krvn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | barnhart(at)a.crl.com (Dave Barnhart) |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator push rod installation |
>While I'm waiting for my RV-6 finishing kit (can you say delayed?) I'm
>finishing up my empenage installation. I am attempting to put in the
>front elevator push rod but there is no way it's going to fit through
>the bulkheads. The only way I can see getting it in is to drill a 1.25"
>hole in the web of F604 on the opposite side of the centerline from the
>hole for the trim cable. This way I can slip in through this hole from
>rear to front until the rear end can slip down past F-605 and then move
>it back into place. What have others done?
Thant's exactly what I did. I learned about that solution from my local
EAA tech counselor.
Best Regards,
Dave Barnhart
barnhart(at)a.crl.com
rv-6 sn 23744
finishing kit on order
fuselage out of the jig
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle (Matt G. Dralle 510-606-1001) |
| Subject: | List Stats (Wow) (chatter) |
Hello Everyone,
I've been working on the RV-List Archives and happened across these interesting
statistics about the traffic on the List:
Total "Good" Messages Posted Since January 1 1996: >8000
Messages Per Month: 888
Message Per Day: 30 !!
At this rate, the RV-List is almost as popular as alt.binaries.pictures...
Thought you might find it interesting...
Matt Dralle
RV-List Admin.
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
510-606-1001 Voice | 510-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: TKM MX-11 Radio |
> I talked to the tech. at TKM and he informed me that
>typically their radio doesn't work well with intercoms.
>Greattt. He also informed me that some Avionics shops have figured a way to
>fix the problem (mine didn't). As you may have gathered, he wasn't much
help.
>
BULL!!!
Talk to his manager, and if that fails, talk to his manager. My buddy's -6
sounds great with the same combo, altho sometimes a bit weak. Always
readable. He has the Flightcom portable, hard mounted.
Try a different brand of headset once...
Maybe it's the air pressure in your tires...? Could have been jarred loose in
one of those JATO takeoffs. ;-)
check six!
Mark
mlfred(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russ Werner" <russ(at)maui.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV4 HS/VS Relationship question |
Thanks to all for setting me straight. I figured it was this way,
but always wonder if it doesn't show up in the plans nor in the
"instructions"! I could see the bend in drawing 30, but couldnt find
any info about it. Anyway, I'll just leave it alone for the next
few years!
I guess that means the tail won't be flying in the living room!
Aloha,
Russ Werner (russ(at)maui.net)
Maui, Hawaii
RV4, working on elevators when not windsurfing!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Olson <rolson(at)Capital.Net> |
Paint Booth Exhaust Fan
It's close to primer, but I hope this is not a topic that has been
beat to death before. I have not seen any posts on it and I can't
seem to use the archive with out a graphical interface. Well
anyway... here goes:
I am in the process of trying to get set up to prime parts in my
basement over the winter. I have seen a friend's set up which I
think is real neat but I'm can't seem to locate a fan which I think
would be safe for a reasonable price.
What he has is a five foot long bench with a set of filters about
24"x30" at the end of the bench. Somewhere behind the filters he
has a two speed exhaust fan. The walls and ceiling are also lined
with filter material. He uses a HVLP gun and when he sprays he
just turns on the fan and it sucks the overspray through the
filters and outside. This is right in his shop and he does not
need to enclose the area in any way. He reports that it works very
well and looks like a very good solution. He is spraying SW wash
primer using this set up.
I thought... "No problem, I'll just get an explosion proof fan and
build something similar and my problem will be solved". Well a
price check at Grainger and other inquiries to date have brought me
back to reality. Explosion proof fans run from $500. and up.
What I would like to do is find a 16-18" axial belt driven fan that
has a common application that I might be able to find used or much
less expensively new. I think that with a belt drive unit with the
motor out of the air flow I could build an enclosure around the
motor and provide positive air pressure inside the enclosure with
another small fan ducted to it to be sure that no fumes could get near
the drive motor.
I have thought about outdoor air conditioning units but I think
they are all direct drive (could be wrong!) unless maybe some of
the commercial units have belt drives. Have also considered trying
to get an automotive fan blade with pulley to build something from
that but I would really rather build the RV!
I guess another possibility is that I am being paranoid and should
just get a direct drive fan cheap and build the enclosure and not
worry so much about the explosion hazards which might be minimal
with good filters and using an HVLP gun. But then I remember what
someone once told me... "Just because you are paranoid doesn't mean
they are not out to get you!"
Well, any ideas on specific fan applications which might be useful
and their sources would be much appreciated. Also if you have
found a better and simpler solution to painting inside over the
winter in the great Northeast I would really like to hear about it.
I do want to be prepared to spray epoxies so I really don't want
fumes in the house... my wife has a sniffer like you wouldn't
believe and I'd rather deal with a guy from OSHA then her! I have
earmuffs for her, but I don't think I could get her to wear a mask
in the family room!
The list is great and I know all of you have had to deal with this
before so there must be workable and practical solutions.
Rich Olson
rolson(at)capital.net
RV-6A Tail Kit
Saratoga Springs, NY
Have not ruined a part yet! Have not drilled a hole either...
SOON! Have critical mass on tools, jigs, engine, and shop set up.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | walsh(at)cpeedy.ENET.dec.com |
To Rich Olson...
I'm not sure about Sherwin Williams or the Epoxies, but Veriprime can be
sprayed outside in 40deg weather with no problems. I live in N.H. and spray
all( almost ) winter. I have found it MUCH more convenient than trying to
build a spray booth in my basement.
Does anybody know it the Epoxies can be sprayed outside in cold weather??
John ( who has flown in to Saratoga Springs a few times )
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tom Martin <fairlea(at)execulink.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Paint Booth Fan |
>Paint Booth Exhaust Fan
>
>It's close to primer, but I hope this is not a topic that has been>
>I have thought about outdoor air conditioning units but I think
>they are all direct drive (could be wrong!) unless maybe some of
>the commercial units have belt drives. Have also considered trying
>to get an automotive fan blade with pulley to build something from
>that but I would really rather build the RV!
>rolson(at)capital.net
>RV-6A Tail Kit
>Saratoga Springs, NY
>Have not ruined a part yet! Have not drilled a hole either...
>SOON! Have critical mass on tools, jigs, engine, and shop set up.
I guess you live in NY and it sometimes gets cold there:-) try finding
someone that services forced air furnaces. Those small centrifical fans move
a bunch of air, are quiet and the used ones are cheap. Some of htem even
come with more then one speed. It would be easy to isolate the motor from
the fumes
Tom Martin
RV-4 Canada( cold furnace experience!)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "r.acker" <r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Thanks to all of you (about 20!) who responded to my trim ring message.
Randall Henderson's response reached me first, so he's the proud new owner.
I forgot to tell him he owes me a ride in his RV to make sure its labeled
correctly .
Rob Acker (r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com)
Rancho Santa Margarita, CA / RV-6Q / N164RA reserved
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Paint Booth Fan |
| From: | greenol(at)juno.com (Lawrence J. Greeno) |
Dick - I started down the same path here in Rochestesr, NY; built a booth
in the basement with an exhaust fan out a window. I was not satisfied
with the result but found that with Variprime, and a 40 degree plus day,
I could run the parts out to the garage from the warm basement and spray
a quantity of them with very good results. I prepared as many parts for
priming as possible way ahead, and when a warm winter's day hit, I
primed. This bypassed the need for a booth entirely. The rest of the
project goes to the garage (wings on order, tail done), and I will do
similarly in the winter months.
Larry Greeno
greenol(at)juno.com
Rochester, NY
writes:
>Paint Booth Exhaust Fan
>
>It's close to primer, but I hope this is not a topic that has been
>beat to death before. I have not seen any posts on it and I can't
>seem to use the archive with out a graphical interface. Well
>anyway... here goes:
>
>I am in the process of trying to get set up to prime parts in my
>basement over the winter. I have seen a friend's set up which I
>think is real neat but I'm can't seem to locate a fan which I think
>would be safe for a reasonable price.
>
>What he has is a five foot long bench with a set of filters about
>24"x30" at the end of the bench. Somewhere behind the filters he
>has a two speed exhaust fan. The walls and ceiling are also lined
>with filter material. He uses a HVLP gun and when he sprays he
>just turns on the fan and it sucks the overspray through the
>filters and outside. This is right in his shop and he does not
>need to enclose the area in any way. He reports that it works very
>well and looks like a very good solution. He is spraying SW wash
>primer using this set up.
>
>I thought... "No problem, I'll just get an explosion proof fan and
>build something similar and my problem will be solved". Well a
>price check at Grainger and other inquiries to date have brought me
>back to reality. Explosion proof fans run from $500. and up.
>
>What I would like to do is find a 16-18" axial belt driven fan that
>has a common application that I might be able to find used or much
>less expensively new. I think that with a belt drive unit with the
>motor out of the air flow I could build an enclosure around the
>motor and provide positive air pressure inside the enclosure with
>another small fan ducted to it to be sure that no fumes could get near
>the drive motor.
>
>I have thought about outdoor air conditioning units but I think
>they are all direct drive (could be wrong!) unless maybe some of
>the commercial units have belt drives. Have also considered trying
>to get an automotive fan blade with pulley to build something from
>that but I would really rather build the RV!
>
>I guess another possibility is that I am being paranoid and should
>just get a direct drive fan cheap and build the enclosure and not
>worry so much about the explosion hazards which might be minimal
>with good filters and using an HVLP gun. But then I remember what
>someone once told me... "Just because you are paranoid doesn't mean
>they are not out to get you!"
>
>Well, any ideas on specific fan applications which might be useful
>and their sources would be much appreciated. Also if you have
>found a better and simpler solution to painting inside over the
>winter in the great Northeast I would really like to hear about it.
>I do want to be prepared to spray epoxies so I really don't want
>fumes in the house... my wife has a sniffer like you wouldn't
>believe and I'd rather deal with a guy from OSHA then her! I have
>earmuffs for her, but I don't think I could get her to wear a mask
>in the family room!
>
>The list is great and I know all of you have had to deal with this
>before so there must be workable and practical solutions.
>
>Rich Olson
>
>rolson(at)capital.net
>RV-6A Tail Kit
>Saratoga Springs, NY
>Have not ruined a part yet! Have not drilled a hole either...
>SOON! Have critical mass on tools, jigs, engine, and shop set up.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
| Subject: | Re: Paint Booth Fan |
Yes this was beat to death a whila ago but if you can't get to the
archives I guess you shouldn't be penalized for it... :-)
I am one of many people who have gotten away with it without getting
killed... I just use a regular house "box" fan ($16 at home base)
pushed up against a vent to the outside, and with a furnace filter
against the inside to trap the majority of the goop. My understanding
is that the "mixture" has to be just right for an explosion and it's
really not very likely. I'm sure there will be people who disagree, so
get ready for el-flamo!
Randall Henderson, RV-6
randall(at)edt.com
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KHarrill(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: pitot mounting screws; towbar |
<< I just mounted a salvaged heated pitot tube (looks good), but the four
screws that mount the pitot to the streamline tubing mount (homemade)
aren't too pretty. These are 6-40 flat-head screws, 1/4" long, and seem
not to be stocked by anyone in the world, including a couple of A&P
friends. Does anyone out there know of a source? >>
I found them at Cessna!!! Call Ying Ling Aircraft in Witchita at 1 800
835-0083.
Ken Harrill
RV - 6 wings
KHarrill(at)AOL.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | EBundy2620(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Fixed Pitch Prop's |
<< Mike Caldera said all O-320-D1A's are set up for constant speed props
when they leave the factory. If you want to use them for a fixed pitch
installation you need to follow a service bulletin (he is
sending it to me and I will post the number when I get it). The reason
for this is that you will blow the front seal right out since oil enters
the crank via the front bearing and with no hole in the rear seal there
is approx. 80 lbs pressure on the front seal. He then asked me how many
hours I had on the engine and I said 90 hours. He could not believe that
front seal was still in place. He said they usually blow in less than 2hrs.
>>
Dan, thanks for the info. This is one of those things that there are a
million different threories for. It's interesting to note that the factory
says they usually blow in less than 2 hours since the factory TEST RUNS them
this way for over an hour. The reason they put that plug in there is so they
can do the test run with a club on the engine.
I spoke with Bill Bennedict @ Van's last night about this same issue. He
said one of the reasons for removing the line is due to an AD on the issue.
It seems that one or two folks left the line in place without the brackets
that support the line in the middle and it vibrated and broke at the governer
pad fitting. The engine then happily pumped all of the oil overboard. He
added that it only takes one or two problems to prompt an AD, and that as
long as the support brackets remain in place you can leave the line
connected.
It makes more sense to me that way, especially since you then keep the inside
of the crank washed with oil.
Please let me know the number of the service bulletin when you get it.
Thanks,
Ed Bundy
ebundy2620(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dfp(at)ns.acadiacom.net (Porter) |
| Subject: | Re: Lycoming IO-320-B1A |
>I bought an IO-320-B1A from a storm damaged Piper Twin Comanche. I am
working on an RV-6A. The engine fits on the engine mount(type II) however
the oil sump only has 1/4 inch clearance from the lower vertical braces
(from the bottom firewall mounting to the bottom dynafocal rings. I
originally figured I could come up with a way to deal with the rear facing
intake but this lack of clearance seems to force me to buy a new oil sump.
Has anyone put an IO-320-B1A on a RV6A. What did you do? If you replaced
the sump what part number did you use.
Bob Porter
working on fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Keith Barr <barr(at)nilenet.com> |
| Subject: | Burlington Flyin |
Does anyone know what time the Burlington Flyin is going on tomorrow?
_____________________________________________ _____
| Keith S. Barr AeroSys Engineering, Inc. | \ \__ ____
| barr@aerosys-eng.com Westminster, Colorado | \ \/____\__\___________
| GO BUFFS! http://www.nilenet.com/~barr |}--< /_/ COMM-AS&MEL-A&IGI `-.
| EAA/AOPA/NAFI RV-6 N640SH-tail in progress | `---------,---,-----------'
|_____________________________________________| _/___/0
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dougweil(at)mail.pressenter.com (Doug Weiler) |
| Subject: | Moving instrument panel |
Fellow Listers:
A question for the RV-4 experts out there...
I am about to start my fuselage. I have dreams of moving the instrument
panel forward 1 inch (then maybe I wouldn't need new glasses). The
implications of this appear to affect the forward canopy skirt and the
forward fuselage top skin. The response from Van's is that this modifcation
is possible. Does the forward canopy skirt have sufficient material to
allow for a 1" forward modification? I assume this is a formed piece. Is
that true? Would it be possible to fabricate such a piece from stock
material? Any other implications I am overlooking?
As always, your assistance is appreciated.
Doug
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
= Doug Weiler, pres. MN Wing, Van's AirForce, RV-4 in progress, N722DW
= 347 Krattley Lane
= Hudson, WI 54016
= 715-386-1239
= email: dougweil(at)mail.pressenter.com
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ACCPILOT(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Burlington Flyin |
barr@aerosys-eng.com Westminster, Colorado | \ \/____\__\___________
| GO BUFFS! http://www.nilenet.com/~barr |}--< /_/ COMM-AS&MEL-A&IGI
`-.
| EAA/AOPA/NAFI RV-6 N640SH-tail in progress |
and is something going on sunday??
Tont Cochran soon to be rv-6 builder
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rwoodard(at)lawyernet.com |
| Subject: | Burlington Flyin |
RV>Does anyone know what time the Burlington Flyin is going on tomorrow?
RV> _____________________________________________ _____
RV>| Keith S. Barr AeroSys Engineering, Inc. | \ \__ ____
RV>| barr@aerosys-eng.com Westminster, Colorado | \ \/____\__\___________
RV>| GO BUFFS! http://www.nilenet.com/~barr |}--< /_/ COMM-AS&MEL-A&IGI `
RV>| EAA/AOPA/NAFI RV-6 N640SH-tail in progress | `---------,---,----------
RV>|_____________________________________________| _/___/
Keith:
The flyer I have just says be there by noon for a free steak lunch,
provided courtesy of the City of Burlington. Dinner Saturday night at a
local restaurant with speeches by distinguished guests. Sunday
departures for those who stayed for the gala dinner.
I talked to Dennis Walsh (RM RVator editor) last Wednesday. He said that
there were supposed to be 20+ planes from Texas. I know of at least a
couple from Colorado, Nebraska, Kansas and Oklahoma who said they'd be
there. I'm going in my Cherokee with a friend who's considering a -6AQ.
We're leaving around 8:30 which should put us there by noon... gotta
love that blinding speed. Boy I want my -8 finished!
Hope to see you there.
Hotel reservations can be made at the Comfort Inn (719)346-7676 for
$49.11/night/2 people/2 beds.
Best regards,
Rod Woodard
Loveland, Colorado
RV-8, #80033
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan Boudro <dboudro(at)nmia.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Moving instrument panel |
Doug,
I don't see a problem with this but I know I would't want my instrument
panel any futher forward. The front of the canopy makes a cover over the
panel now and I wouldn't want it any deeper. If you can sit in a RV-4
before you start in on this it would be helpful.
I'm sure you would have to modify the canopy frame but on the few RV-4's
I've worked on substantial "bending" or cutting of the frame is required
anyway to get it to fit. I know of one professional builder that just
cuts them in half to start with and welds where needed. Any good welder
can put it back together.
Dan Boudro
RV-4 N9167Z
Albuquerque, NM
dboudro(at)nmia.com
On Fri, 27 Sep 1996, Doug Weiler wrote:
> Fellow Listers:
>
> A question for the RV-4 experts out there...
>
> I am about to start my fuselage. I have dreams of moving the instrument
> panel forward 1 inch (then maybe I wouldn't need new glasses). The
> implications of this appear to affect the forward canopy skirt and the
> forward fuselage top skin. The response from Van's is that this modifcation
> is possible. Does the forward canopy skirt have sufficient material to
> allow for a 1" forward modification? I assume this is a formed piece. Is
> that true? Would it be possible to fabricate such a piece from stock
> material? Any other implications I am overlooking?
>
> As always, your assistance is appreciated.
>
> Doug
>
>
> -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
> = Doug Weiler, pres. MN Wing, Van's AirForce, RV-4 in progress, N722DW
> = 347 Krattley Lane
> = Hudson, WI 54016
> = 715-386-1239
> = email: dougweil(at)mail.pressenter.com
> -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | chester razer <crazer(at)egyptian.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Paint Booth Fan |
cpeedy.ENET.dec.com!walsh(at)matronics.com wrote:
>
> To Rich Olson...
>
> I'm not sure about Sherwin Williams or the Epoxies, but Veriprime can be
> sprayed outside in 40deg weather with no problems. I live in N.H. and spray
> all( almost ) winter. I have found it MUCH more convenient than trying to
> build a spray booth in my basement.
>
> Does anybody know it the Epoxies can be sprayed outside in cold weather??
>
> John ( who has flown in to Saratoga Springs a few times )
I've done some test panels with Veriprime sprayed as low as
32 degrees and they show no signs of problems. In fact they
look exactly like the parts I've sprayed at higher
temperatures.
--
Chet Razer
crazer(at)egyptian.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tom Martin <fairlea(at)execulink.com> |
| Subject: | Heated pitot tube |
Well they (read government types) are finally going to allow Canadian VFR
pilots to fly over the top of clouds. One of the restrictions is that we
have to have a heated pitot tube.
On my RV-4 I have the standard bend tube and it has worked well but I will
have to change it now.
Any suggestions about types to use and installation hints would be appreciatted.
Thanks in advance.
Tom Martin
RV-4
the RaVen
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tom Martin <fairlea(at)execulink.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Moving instrument panel |
>Fellow Listers:
>
>A question for the RV-4 experts out there...
>
>I am about to start my fuselage. I have dreams of moving the instrument
>panel forward 1 inch (then maybe I wouldn't need new glasses). The
>implications of this appear to affect the forward canopy skirt and the
>forward fuselage top skin. The response from Van's is that this modifcation
>is possible. Does the forward canopy skirt have sufficient material to
>allow for a 1" forward modification? I assume this is a formed piece. Is
>that true? Would it be possible to fabricate such a piece from stock
>material? Any other implications I am overlooking?
>
>As always, your assistance is appreciated.
>
>Doug
>
>
>-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
>= Doug Weiler, pres. MN Wing, Van's AirForce, RV-4 in progress, N722DW
>= 347 Krattley Lane
>= Hudson, WI 54016
>= 715-386-1239
>= email: dougweil(at)mail.pressenter.com
>-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
I think that you will have to replace the forward canopy skirt. this is no
big deal as it is just flat sheet with a curve rolled into it. This would be
a good mod in that it will give you a little more room to make your canopy
fairing. As well it will give you a little more room getting into the cockpit.
Another option would be to leave everything the same but move the panel
itself farther forward. Instead of a half inch lip around it you would now
have one and a half inches. This would look good as well.
With both options your fuselage side rails will be a little short. Time to
improvise.
Good luck
Tom Martin
RV-4 the RaVen
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jerryflyrv(at)village.yvv.com> |
| Subject: | Superior Engine Parts |
Just thought some of you that had not found it yet would like to
take a look at Superiors really nice homepage at
http://www.superair.com
--
Jerry Springer RV-6 N906GS First flight July 14, 1989 :-) Hillsboro, OR
jerryflyrv(at)village.yvv.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Moving instrument panel |
> am about to start my fuselage. I have dreams of moving the instrument
>panel forward 1 inch (then maybe I wouldn't need new glasses). The
>implications of this appear to affect the forward canopy skirt and the
>forward fuselage top skin. The response from Van's is that this modifcation
>is possible. Does the forward canopy skirt have sufficient material to
>allow for a 1" forward modification? I assume this is a formed piece. Is
>that true? Would it be possible to fabricate such a piece from stock
>material? Any other implications I am overlooking?
>
>As always, your assistance is appreciated.
>
>Doug
Doug:
I'd say do it. Get another "boot cowl"- I can't recall the part # - the
formed pc that covers tha back of the panel area, and use it to form the
front section of your canopy.
Another mod I'd suggest to you, and others building the -4, is to "box" the
#4 bulkhead with a pc of 040, as is done on the -6 with 063, and butt the two
fwd side skins at that bulkhead. You would have to run two rows of rivets
inside the channel ( for a total of four rows instead of three), but that's
easy. This eliminates the overlap joint at that bulkhead, and HAS to smooth
the airflow. I got this idea just AFTER I'd finished drilling MY fuse, and
called Van's on the spot. They OK'd it, so I used the idea on the next fuse I
built. Looks good.
But then, my -4 is so highly modified that it's actually called something
else...
Check six!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ammeterj(at)seanet.com (John Ammeter) |
| Subject: | Re: Pro-seal shelf life |
>Question to all: I am working in an unheated garage here in Minnesota and
>wil be unable to use up my proseal before winter blows in. I am told that
>Proseal only has a sheelf life of 6 months. Is this true and can this
>life be extended till spring time.
>
>Thanks
>Rick(at)ccc.henn.tec.mn.us
>
>
Put it in your fridge. I'm told that will extend the life but don't know
for how long.
Just don't mix it up with your edibles. Can you imagine opening the can
thinking you were going to enjoy some canned peaches???
John Ammeter
ammeterj(at)seanet.com
3233 NE 95th St
Seattle WA, 98115 USA
RV-6 N16JA
First flight August 1990
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Johnson <rvgasj(at)popmail.mcs.net> |
| Subject: | Which way should the nuts face on the spar bolts (by the 604 |
bulkhead.)
My 619 floor ribs on my 6A do not have enough clearance for the spar bolt
nuts. Which direction (facing front or rear) are we suppose to put the spar
bolt nuts by the 604 bulkhead ? Does it matter ?
Thanks in advance for anyone shedding some light ...
Scott in Chicago rvgasj(at)mcs.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | lsmith(at)coastalnet.com (Louis E. Smith Jr.) |
Hello Listeners,
I am in the process of overhauling my IO-360-A1B6 for my RV-8. Does
anyone have a recomendation on how to best remove the old paint on the
engine case before repainting?
Louis Smith
lsmith(at)coastalnet.com
RV-8 SN:80126
Empanage finished, overhauling engine while waiting for wing kit.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | ??? Lyc. 0-360 A2G ??? |
I have located an 0-360 A2G which apparently is fairly low time and a
"reasonable" price. (Notice I highlight the word "reasonable")
Either way, the problem which I can deduce about the A2G is that it has a
horizontally mounted carb and induction housing which I am told will not work
in an RV-6A.
My question is whether the induction and carb are interchangeable among
different model 0-360s. In other words, can I just unscrew the horizontal
induction and then just as easily screw on a vertical one from another
engine, or are there differences in the case which would make this
unpractical?
Andy Gold
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Burlington Flyin |
>>Does anyone know what time the Burlington Flyin is going on tomorrow?
No time was specified in the Rocky Mtn RVator flyer. "...Come by noon
for free steak lunch,...".
A dinner, "not free but very reasonable ", is planned for around 6PM or
a little later.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Johnson <rvgasj(at)popmail.mcs.net> |
| Subject: | Need advice on problem with seat ribs |
I am building an RV6A and have the fuselage with all bulkheads in the jig.
The problem is the front seat rib web faces (616,617,618) does not lie flush
against the 604 bulkhead ( it is the wrong angle and slants away from the
604 1/8 of an inch, note: the rear seat rib web is sitting on the 605
bulkhead where it is suppose to go ). We have double checked all alignments
and dimensions on the bulkheads. Has anybody had problems with these seat
ribs ? I seem to remember reading that there was some error in the fuselage
area that was never fixed. I can rebend the front seat ribs so that they
will angle correctly to be flush against the 604, but have not seen this
much error in the parts before anywhere else. This is a new kit having been
received 5 months ago. Also, the 604 has a fake wood spar in it that exactly
mirrors the real one ( it is laminated marine plywood, planed to within 5
thousands accuracy), so the 604 is straight and has been triple checked
where it is suppose to be.
Totally concerned what to do next. Any suggestions ?
Scott Johnson rvgasj(at)mcs.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Cowl Bumps H2AD? |
RV 6 under construction, have 0320H2AD, and modified mount ordered from
Van's. Now I hear conflicting stories as to the need to bump cowl at
alternator and fuel pump areas. Any actual experiences appreciated. Any
other areas of concern your experience should have me aware of. BTW what car
alternator is 30 to35 amps and is popular with RVers. Internal or seperate
voltage regulators? Thanks greatly. McManD(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Paint Booth Fan |
Richard Olson ,I think that I would get a cheap die grinder,mount a fan
blade on it and restrict the air supply to get propper fan r p m. It should
be real flash-proof.
Ferdfly(at)AOL.COM Fred Laforge RV-4 trying to find a good 180 hp Lyc.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John McMahon <rv6(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Need advice on problem with seat ribs |
Scott Johnson wrote:
>
> I am building an RV6A and have the fuselage with all bulkheads in the jig.
> The problem is the front seat rib web faces (616,617,618) does not lie flush
> against the 604 bulkhead ( it is the wrong angle and slants away from the
> 604 1/8 of an inch, note: the rear seat rib web is sitting on the 605
> bulkhead where it is suppose to go ). We have double checked all alignments
> and dimensions on the bulkheads. Has anybody had problems with these seat
> ribs ? I seem to remember reading that there was some error in the fuselage
> area that was never fixed. I can rebend the front seat ribs so that they
> will angle correctly to be flush against the 604, but have not seen this
> much error in the parts before anywhere else. This is a new kit having been
> received 5 months ago. Also, the 604 has a fake wood spar in it that exactly
> mirrors the real one ( it is laminated marine plywood, planed to within 5
> thousands accuracy), so the 604 is straight and has been triple checked
> where it is suppose to be.
>
> Totally concerned what to do next. Any suggestions ?
>
> Scott Johnson rvgasj(at)mcs.com
I am at the same stage,and having same problem.I have read some where
that the rear of the seat ribs have incorrect angle!!!I BELIVE I HAVE
THE FIX FOR IT.
JOHN MCMAHON
GALLATIN ,TN
615-452-8742
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter Bennett" <bennett(at)healey.com.au> |
| Subject: | Re: Mixture controls |
OK, so I'm from the bush. What's a "B" nut?
Peter Bennett
Sydney Australia
RV6 rear top fus skins
>
> The hole in the mixture control arm is 1/4". I bushed it down to 3/16" so
> today took the bushing out and made a "B" nut out of a AN 4 bolt.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Micheal Mims <mikemims(at)pacbell.net> |
I was wondering if one of you guys could look up the CG range of for me from
your plans? I am building a one of a kind homebuilt with the same airfoil
(NACA 23015) as an RV and was wondering what percent of airfoil the RV uses
for the CG range. Thanks for any and all help.
Mike Mims
mikemims(at)pacbell.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tailspin(at)ix.netcom.com |
| Subject: | Re: 320B1A sump change |
I have an IO-320-B1A engine. I also had to change the sump, in
order to mount the injector on the bottom. I called a place in Texas,
called Bobbys Plane Parts. I can't locate my receipt, so I don't have
his address or phone#. Maybe someone else on the list can provide it.
I called around and found that he had the best price on a used sump.
My engine has the oil supply to the pump incorporated in the sump.
The part# I have is Sump #74375. You will also need to replace all
four of your intake tubes, as yours will not fit the replacement
sump. Mine are #74084W.
The parts he sells are used, I found that 3 of the
tubes on the sump were loose, and one of them had been
cracked and rewelded. These tubes are the type that taper, and very
expensive. I had the cracked one replaced, and the other loose ones
tightened by Divco, here in Tulsa. I later found out that I can rent
the tool to tighten and install the tubes myself from Sacremento
Skyranch for $45 a week. Rats! Just my luck! I paid quite a bit more
than this to Divco. Good Luck!
Mark LaBoyteaux
RV-6a working fwd top fuse skin
tailspin(at)ix.netcom.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeffrey D. Blackman" <jeffreyb(at)spiritone.com> |
I was wondering if there were any local RV builders in the Portland,
Oregon area that would allow me to take a look at thier RV project. No matter
what stage the project is in.
I have been watching the RV-List for about 4 weeks now and have
seen a lot of positive reaction between builders. I hope to start an RV-6A
project in the future myself and be part of this group. I'm helping my wife
through PTA school so RV money is a little tight at the moment. So I'm
writing this so
I can look at a project and dream a little more. From what I've been told,
keeping
your spouse happy is one of the most important things while building. Well I've
got to brag a little here......my wife wants to start just as bad as I do. Must
of been the RV-6A ride that Andy gave my wife out at Van's Aircraft in North
Plains.
When she landed I remember her asking for the checkbook......
Well enough rambling......
Thank-you so much,
My info: Jeff Blackman
(503) 570-0146
Wilsonville, OR jeffreyb(at)spiritone.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Need advice on problem with seat ribs |
HMMM... Maybe? Check out the angle you are supposed to have on the 604
bulkhead. It is not perpendictular to longerons. I believe the video misses
or ????, you in this area.
Look at drwg # 23 the jig. notice that on the top view looking down you see
your F604 at the intersection to F604 to longeron is 30 11/16" from fire wall
front datum point (including flange). Then notice on the side view below
that. The top measurement is given as 30 1/4" from same datum point.
Check out same relationship on drwg # 31, in lower RH corner, section A-A' .
Note how the 29 1/2" (now given minus the 3/4" firewall turned forward
facing flange) is your bottom measurement (AKA at the top of your jig
currently). Then notice up at the top of same section, a distance given at
29 15/16" (again minus 3/4" from fire wall flange).
Thus check to see if your F604 is tipped from top to bottom. I know of one
person whom did miss this. bent out the 1/8" gap you describe. And had wrong
angle to wing chord line. The factory fix after Van's researched was to
introduce an angle into the horizontal stabilizer. Back to the old rule that
if you cahnge one thing now, you'll have to change 50 more things later to
fix it.
Let me know if this what you find, and good luck, McManD(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | frankv(at)pec.co.nz |
| Subject: | Re: Moving instrument panel |
In , on 09/27/96 at 03:27 PM,
mail.pressenter.com!dougweil(at)matronics.com (Doug Weiler) said:
>Fellow Listers:
>A question for the RV-4 experts out there...
>I am about to start my fuselage. I have dreams of moving the instrument
>panel forward 1 inch (then maybe I wouldn't need new glasses).
Hi Doug,
If this is just because of your eyesight, I'd say don't bother. Typically,
a person's ability to "accomodate" (focus closer) gets worse as time goes
by, especially after age 40. If you build your plane so that it's OK now,
you'll find that in a couple of years you'll still need new glasses.
Hope this helps,
Frank (already wearing glasses; one eye shortsighted, the other long)
--
-----------------------------------------------------------
frankv(at)pec.co.nz
-----------------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | barnhart(at)a.crl.com (Dave Barnhart) |
| Subject: | Re: Paint Booth Fan |
>I thought... "No problem, I'll just get an explosion proof fan and
>build something similar and my problem will be solved". Well a
>price check at Grainger and other inquiries to date have brought me
>back to reality. Explosion proof fans run from $500. and up.
I just use a couple of box fans. By the time the overspray gets to the
fan, it is dry enough and so widely dispersed that its not a problem.
Best Regards,
Dave Barnhart
barnhart(at)a.crl.com
rv-6 sn 23744
finishing kit on order
fuselage out of the jig
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | sarg314(at)azstarnet.com (Tom Sargent) |
| Subject: | copperstate fly-in |
For those in the southwest who may not have heard yet, the Arizona
EAA chapters Copper State Fly-in is being held at Williams Gateway Airport
(formerly Williams AFB) Oct. 10-13. For more info see
http://www.primenet.com/~eaa_ariz/.
---
Tom Sargent, Tucson, AZ, sarg314(at)azstarnet.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jbrick(at)wolfenet.com |
| Subject: | Oversize Spar Splice Plate Bolts |
When I recieved my RV-4 wing kit in April, it came with three extra bolts
and three letters of explanation from Phlogiston Products, Inc.
1. A form letter (on Van's letterhead) that starts off..."To allow
for the possibility of corrective action being taken in the event of
mis-drilled bolt holes in the steel wing splice plates, we approve the use
of NAS bolts up to .032 in. over the nominal size." It included a diagram
of the splice plates with annotations showing exactly which bolt holes were
affected and where each of the three different bolts went.
2. A form letter explaining that two of the three bolts were not
"certs", i.e. the suppliers were not able to provide documentation, even
though they came from known aircraft hardware suppliers with proper marking.
And that if I was in no hurry they would be getting "certs" in the near future.
3. A letter explaining that the standard size aircraft washer will
not fit the oversized bolts and recommending hardware store washers and
making sure they are deburred and flat.
I checked the fit of the oversized bolts today and found that one drops
through both plates with about the same resistance (a little less actually)
as a normal bolt in a normal hole but the other two only drop through one of
the two matching plates...the threads go through but not the shank. Seems
like a big hammer or ream job will be necessary.
I emailed Van, back in April, to inquire how often this type of thing
happens. Tom replied that it was "common". I hadn't checked the fit of the
bolts at that time. I'm finally about to start assembling the spar and my
question to you guys is, just how common is this really. I don't remember
any such postings in the past year.
John Brick
jbrick(at)wolfenet.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Morristec(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | ELT antenna uglies |
In reference to the discussion about ELT antennas, I solved the "ugly"
antenna problem with a "pretty" antenna cheap. B&B Aircraft Supplies
(913)884-5930 had a Collins Avionics model ELT 10-214-2 high speed antenna at
OSH for $25.00. It turns out that this antenna is the very same
Dayton-Granger model ELT 10-214-2 that ACK specifically approves for use with
their ELTs. Looks like a cutoff Com swept whip antenna. This antenna is
normally $150+. Keep in mind that the new ELT antennas are tuned for 2
specific frequencies- 121.5 Mhz and 243 Mhz. The new ELT TSO requires the
antenna to be exterior I think.
They probably still have them. Good luck.
Dan Morris
Morristec(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JamesCone(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Paint Booth Fans |
I used three cheap box fans from K-Mart and stacked them one on top of the
other in a frame that had round holes just exactly the same diameter as the
fan blades. The frame is on wheels and just exactly fits in my door to the
outside. I have a furnace filter in front of each opening to catch the dust.
I have primed and painted right in front of this set-up for years with no
problem. There is a very high volume of air discharged from my basement and
it keeps the house from smelling like paint. I use the high speed when
spraying and a lower speed when drying. I hang plastic from the rafters to
screen off a paint booth and filter the air entering the booth with more
furnace filters.
Jim Cone
jamescone(at)aol.com
RV-6A ready for prime painting
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ammeterj(at)seanet.com (John Ammeter) |
| Subject: | Re: Oversize Spar Splice Plate Bolts |
>When I recieved my RV-4 wing kit in April, it came with three extra bolts
>and three letters of explanation from Phlogiston Products, Inc.
>
> 1. A form letter (on Van's letterhead) that starts off..."To allow
>for the possibility of corrective action being taken in the event of
>mis-drilled bolt holes in the steel wing splice plates, we approve the use
>of NAS bolts up to .032 in. over the nominal size." It included a diagram
>of the splice plates with annotations showing exactly which bolt holes were
>affected and where each of the three different bolts went.
>
> 2. A form letter explaining that two of the three bolts were not
>"certs", i.e. the suppliers were not able to provide documentation, even
>though they came from known aircraft hardware suppliers with proper marking.
>And that if I was in no hurry they would be getting "certs" in the near future.
>
> 3. A letter explaining that the standard size aircraft washer will
>not fit the oversized bolts and recommending hardware store washers and
>making sure they are deburred and flat.
>
>I checked the fit of the oversized bolts today and found that one drops
>through both plates with about the same resistance (a little less actually)
>as a normal bolt in a normal hole but the other two only drop through one of
>the two matching plates...the threads go through but not the shank. Seems
>like a big hammer or ream job will be necessary.
>
>I emailed Van, back in April, to inquire how often this type of thing
>happens. Tom replied that it was "common". I hadn't checked the fit of the
>bolts at that time. I'm finally about to start assembling the spar and my
>question to you guys is, just how common is this really. I don't remember
>any such postings in the past year.
>
>John Brick
>jbrick(at)wolfenet.com
>
>
>
I recall that 8 of the 16 bolts in my spar were oversize. Not a problem as
long as you are careful to put the proper bolts in the correct holes.
John Ammeter
ammeterj(at)seanet.com
3233 NE 95th St
Seattle WA, 98115 USA
RV-6 N16JA
First flight August 1990
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rwoodard(at)lawyernet.com |
| Subject: | Burlington Fly-in Report |
I just (30 min. ago) returned from the Burlington, CO RV-fly-in. There
were approximately 35 rv's there. Bill Benedict was there with his
son(?) and Van's blue -6A. All-in-all, I'd estimate that there were at
least 100 rv-people there. Many people drove out from Denver or rented
spam-can type planes to be there. As promised, the Town of Burlington
provided everyone with a _free_ steak lunch at the airport. The
afternoon was spent touring the town via horse drawn wagon and riding
the town's early-1900 restored carousel. The day was capped of with a
dinner/banquet at a saloon-style restaurant that we had completely to
ourselves. State representation was split about 50/50 between Colorado
and Texas with at least one from Nebraska (our own Bob Skinner) and one
from Arizona (can't remember his name). At the banquet, the Town
officially invited Van's to hold their homecoming fly-in at Burlington.
I don't know if Van's will seriously consider such a move, but it
definitely would be handy from my perspective and as long as I've just
got my Cherokee to fly! :-) BTW, "celebrity" guests included: the
Orndorffs, the Averys, and Larry Vetterman. RV-list people: Bob Skinner,
John Darby, Steve?? Cochran and myself. Sorry if I forgot anybody. It
was a great time! I'd definitely encourage one and all to attend next
year!
Best regards, Rod Woodard RV-8, #80033, Loveland, Colorado
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Bottiglieri <rb(at)ozramp.net.au> |
Hi People...
So I want to build an RV and I'm just wondering if enyone can give me
some information as to the tools that I will require.
Also can anyone tell me if they know of any person building an Rv-8 in
Melbourne.
Thanks
Rick
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Stephen Jackson Soule <ssoule(at)vbimail.champlain.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: Paint Booth Fan |
Richard Olson wrote:
>
> Paint Booth Exhaust Fan
>
> It's close to primer, but I hope this is not a topic that has been
> beat to death before. I have not seen any posts on it and I can't
> seem to use the archive with out a graphical interface. Well
> anyway... here goes:
>
> I am in the process of trying to get set up to prime parts in my
> basement over the winter. I have seen a friend's set up which I
> think is real neat but I'm can't seem to locate a fan which I think
> would be safe for a reasonable price.
>
> What he has is a five foot long bench with a set of filters about
> 24"x30" at the end of the bench. Somewhere behind the filters he
> has a two speed exhaust fan. The walls and ceiling are also lined
> with filter material. He uses a HVLP gun and when he sprays he
> just turns on the fan and it sucks the overspray through the
> filters and outside. This is right in his shop and he does not
> need to enclose the area in any way. He reports that it works very
> well and looks like a very good solution. He is spraying SW wash
> primer using this set up.
>
> I thought... "No problem, I'll just get an explosion proof fan and
> build something similar and my problem will be solved". Well a
> price check at Grainger and other inquiries to date have brought me
> back to reality. Explosion proof fans run from $500. and up.
>
> What I would like to do is find a 16-18" axial belt driven fan that
> has a common application that I might be able to find used or much
> less expensively new. I think that with a belt drive unit with the
> motor out of the air flow I could build an enclosure around the
> motor and provide positive air pressure inside the enclosure with
> another small fan ducted to it to be sure that no fumes could get near
> the drive motor.
>
> I have thought about outdoor air conditioning units but I think
> they are all direct drive (could be wrong!) unless maybe some of
> the commercial units have belt drives. Have also considered trying
> to get an automotive fan blade with pulley to build something from
> that but I would really rather build the RV!
>
> I guess another possibility is that I am being paranoid and should
> just get a direct drive fan cheap and build the enclosure and not
> worry so much about the explosion hazards which might be minimal
> with good filters and using an HVLP gun. But then I remember what
> someone once told me... "Just because you are paranoid doesn't mean
> they are not out to get you!"
>
> Well, any ideas on specific fan applications which might be useful
> and their sources would be much appreciated. Also if you have
> found a better and simpler solution to painting inside over the
> winter in the great Northeast I would really like to hear about it.
> I do want to be prepared to spray epoxies so I really don't want
> fumes in the house... my wife has a sniffer like you wouldn't
> believe and I'd rather deal with a guy from OSHA then her! I have
> earmuffs for her, but I don't think I could get her to wear a mask
> in the family room!
>
> The list is great and I know all of you have had to deal with this
> before so there must be workable and practical solutions.
>
> Rich Olson
>
> rolson(at)capital.net
> RV-6A Tail Kit
> Saratoga Springs, NY
> Have not ruined a part yet! Have not drilled a hole either...
> SOON! Have critical mass on tools, jigs, engine, and shop set up.
Well, over here in Vermont I just haul the stuff outside to paint. So
far my "painting" is just priming. Spraying outside in the winter is no
fun, though. You get all the stuff ready, then open to door and rush it
all out while the temperature drops. Aluminum does not remain at room
temp for more than a few minutes. Spray like mad, examine with a
flashlight (its always dark in the winter) spray some more. After a
short while, your respirator will freeze up and you can no longer exhale
through the valve. If you are also wearing eye protection, the lenses
are probably iced up too. Haul all the stuff back to the shop and
inspect. If you need to touch up and the water in the air line isn't
frozen yet, haul the stuff back out and do it some more.
I use Randolph zinc chromate primer bcz the old timers around here say
it goes on well in an unheated shop (or outside!). I can't tell from
looks or touch which parts were painted during the winter and which were
painted during the summer. I do not have a paint booth and do not want
to be temped to paint inside my sort of well buttoned up shop for health
reasons. I do use spray cans of primer for the little jobs, though, and
have been known to spray in the shop just before calling it a night,
putting on the cold weather survival gear and slogging back through the
snowdrifts to the house.
Steve
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Osgood <Rick(at)ccc.henn.tec.mn.us> |
Rick Bottiglieri wrote:
>
> Hi People...
>
> So I want to build an RV and I'm just wondering if enyone can give me
> some information as to the tools that I will require.
>
> Also can anyone tell me if they know of any person building an Rv-8 in
> Melbourne.
>
> Thanks
>
> Rick
Hello Rick. You just missed this discussion by about a week or so. I
would suggest two ways to get a list of the tools you will need:
1) Search the RV-list archives by connecting to www.matronics.com. Matt
keeps a database of searchable list messages. Search on tools and
you should find plenty of ideas.
2) Connect to John Hovans web site:
http://atlantis.austin.apple.com/people.pages/jhovan/home.htm
In this site you will find a link to recommended tools and an
alternative build
manual written by Frank Justice. Download this manual for a look at
how to really
build an RV.
I am not sure of builders in Melbourne, but Mr. Darby is on your side of
the world
and I am sure he can let you know if he knows of any builders in your
area.
Good luck and welcome to the list
Rick Osgood
RV6A builder in the frozen tundra of Minneapolis, MN
Rick(at)ccc.henn.tec.mn.us
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jpl(at)showpg.mn.org (Joe Larson) |
| Subject: | Re: Oversize Spar Splice Plate Bolts |
> I checked the fit of the oversized bolts today and found that one drops
> through both plates with about the same resistance (a little less actually)
> as a normal bolt in a normal hole but the other two only drop through one of
> the two matching plates...the threads go through but not the shank. Seems
> like a big hammer or ream job will be necessary.
We had a similar discussion a few months ago.
Remember -- if you have primed your parts, the primer will change the
situation from "a close fit" to "get the hammer". IMUO (U: uneducated)
you don't want to use the hammer -- you'll strip some of the plating from
the bolts and probably scratch them a bit. Better to clean the holes up
slightly so the bolt fits tightly, but no hammering. Slightly lubricating
the bolt before inserting will help, too.
-J
--
Joe Larson jpl(at)showpg.mn.org 612-591-1037
Showpage Software, Inc. http://www.wavefront.com/~showpg
14190 47th Ave N.
Plymouth, Mn 55446 Future RV-6A pilot.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ming Ho <mho(at)post.cis.smu.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: 320B1A sump change |
Hello Mark,
> order to mount the injector on the bottom. I called a place in Texas,
> called Bobbys Plane Parts. I can't locate my receipt, so I don't have
> his address or phone#. Maybe someone else on the list can provide it.
Bobby's Plane 'N Parts Inc.
320 F.M. 1885 E.
Weatherford, TX 76086
Contact: Bobby Osborn
817-682-4220
Ming
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jpl(at)showpg.mn.org (Joe Larson) |
| Subject: | Re: Paint Booth Fans |
> I used three cheap box fans from K-Mart and stacked them one on top of the
> other in a frame that had round holes just exactly the same diameter as the
> fan blades.
We've had numerous suggestions that the fumes we're dealing with are
explosive, but no one has said they've had a real problem with this.
However, if you're concerned about this, you *could* take the same
box fans recommended above, disassemble them, and rebuild them with a
lengthy belt arrangement such that the motor is isolated from the
contaminated air.
Alternatively, you can use a forced air system instead. Have the fans
blow air into your painting area and allow for air escape elsewhere.
Make sure both inflow and outflow are filtered.
-J
--
Joe Larson jpl(at)showpg.mn.org 612-591-1037
Showpage Software, Inc. http://www.wavefront.com/~showpg
14190 47th Ave N.
Plymouth, Mn 55446 Future RV-6A pilot.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jpl(at)showpg.mn.org (Joe Larson) |
> So I want to build an RV and I'm just wondering if enyone can give me
> some information as to the tools that I will require.
Rick --
Rick Osgood gave you good information in his response. As a point of
reference, I've spent around $1500 (U.S.) on my tools, including the
RV builder's kit from Avery and an air compressor.
-J
--
Joe Larson jpl(at)showpg.mn.org 612-591-1037
Showpage Software, Inc. http://www.wavefront.com/~showpg
14190 47th Ave N.
Plymouth, Mn 55446 Future RV-6A pilot.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | william strike <strike(at)hargray.com> |
hey rick, check out John Hovan's RV page - In the information section, he
has a list of the tools that are recommended. As I recall, all in all, to
get the basic, necessary tools will run you about $1000 or so... less if you
are good at scrounging..... I just tried to get into Hovan's site, but was
unsuccessful... the URL is atlantis.autin.apple.com.... good luck, ken strike
>Hi People...
>
>So I want to build an RV and I'm just wondering if enyone can give me
>some information as to the tools that I will require.
>
>Also can anyone tell me if they know of any person building an Rv-8 in
>Melbourne.
>
>
>Thanks
>
>Rick
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 320B1A sump change |
>> I have an IO-320-B1A engine. I also had to change the sump, in
>>order to mount the injector on the bottom. I called a place in Texas,
>>called Bobbys Plane Parts. I can't locate my receipt, so I don't have
>>his address or phone#. Maybe someone else on the list can provide it.
>> I called around and found that he had the best price on a used sump.
>>My engine has the oil supply .......
Bobby's Planes and Parts, 9061 F.M. 1885, Weatherford, TX 76088,
Telephone 817-682-4220, FAX 817-682-4264
I bought my engine from him in June. Spent a half a day at his place
picking it out. He has quite a warehouse full of used engines and
parts. I found him very reasonable, honest, with no b.s.
Bob Hall
rjhall(at)kktv.com
fuselage still in the jig.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Moore <bobmoore(at)wwd.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Paint Booth Fans |
Joe Larson wrote:
> We've had numerous suggestions that the fumes we're dealing with are
> explosive, but no one has said they've had a real problem with this.
> However, if you're concerned about this, you *could* take the same
> box fans recommended above, disassemble them, and rebuild them with a
> lengthy belt arrangement such that the motor is isolated from the
> contaminated air.
What's wrong with an AC brushless motor driving the fan?
Bob Moore
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <72770.552(at)CompuServe.COM> |
< You are talking about connecting an LED, which you are already
< "pushing" with greater than the max rated current, directly to the
< alternator of an airplane (homebuilt, probably with groundloops all
September 18, 1996 - September 30, 1996
RV-Archive.digest.vol-bx