RV-Archive.digest.vol-da
June 18, 1997 - June 26, 1997
charge you extra?
I really seriously doubt that the early failure was caused by panel angle! Do
you suppose Van doesn't know about tilted gyros??
Maybe I'll make my panel vertical.
Hal Kempthorne RV-6AQ -- On main gear
halk(at)sybase.com Santa Clara, CA. Debonair N6134V @ SJC
>
> While the angle you have calculated does indeed represent
> the 4.2 degrees from vertical, how does this relate to the angle
> of the panel while in the cruse configuration. The original Atificial
> Horizon that I purchased (from Van's) didn't have any tilt factored
> in, and it failed within the first 100 hours of flight. The next one had
> the 8 degrees of tilt designed in, and is still operational.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
Subject: | Re: Plexiglass paint removal |
--> RV-List message posted by: randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson)
> I bought my RV-4 already built, and there is a slight dusting of paint on the
> entire inside of the canopy. Should I do the Micro-mesh treatment to remove
> this? Will anything else cut the paint without damaging the plexi?
I'd definitely call Vans and have them connect you with the place that
makes the canopies and get their advice.
I was told you could use isopropyl alcohol or Naptha on the canopy. I
used Naptha with no problem to clean off some excess sealant around the
edges. I don't know how well it will work on dried paint however.
I used micro-mesh to polish out some scratches in my canopy. Be
forewarned -- if you intend to micro-mesh the whole canopy you are in
for many many hours of hard work! The stuff does work, but only if you
read the directions and adhere strictly to them! You can't cut corners
with this stuff. I'd definitely try to get the paint off some other way
first.
Randall Henderson, RV-6
randall(at)edt.com
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
--> RV-List message posted by: Mlfred(at)aol.com
<< On my RV-4 I have no problem getting air into the cockpit. My question is
where does the air go?
On my current project I am at the stage where I could put in some
vents in the right location, if there is one,
>>
Tom:
I could say something like: It simply disappears, like one of each pair of my
socks do, when I put them in the washer. Altho, sometimes they turn into
hangers....
Think of it like this: Where is there low pressure? I'm sure the air is at
least 'trying' to go there.
Air comes in the front, and presumably out the back. OK, but thow does it get
there? On the -4, it would flow around the rear seat back, thru the luggage
compartment, and out near the tail. So, where is the low pressure area at the
tail? Under the horiz stab, of course. I see many folks with a nice seal
under the stab, but this is where I think most of the cabin air exits the
fuse. You should put some 1/8" hardware cloth in this area to keep the
critters out, tho. You may also want to put an outlet in the rear baggage
bulkhead, say 4" dia, and also use hardware cloth here.
I'm not sure the "leakage" around the rudder/v stab is enough.
So, how are you getting the air in? -4 listers would like to know.
Check six!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
Subject: | Re: Question about washers |
--> RV-List message posted by: randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson)
> >Does anyone know why the plans call out two large 970-3 washers in =
the=20
> >inboard aileron hinge assembly?...I am wondering why I can't use =
smaller=20
> >diameter washers to bear against the bearings.
The oversize washers are intended to "capture" the bearing in case
it fails. Good redundantcy/safety feature.
You may actually only need one per side. If you look at dwg 21, detail
'A', you will see it says "AN970-3 2 REQ'D". Generally this means two
total. I am guessing this is because if you do it like the plans show,
with one long spacer on the same side as the big washer, then if the
bearing fails, the spacer and washer will keep things in place on that
side, and on the other side the face of the aileron bracket will do the
job. Interestingly, they call out "4 REQ'D" for the spacers, which some
people do -- even length spacers on each side of the bearing. I guess
it would depend on which way you do it.
> >If I can use the smaller diameter washers I can avoid having to place =
=20
> >a minimum order for =BC pound or 100 of the 970-3's just to get the =
two=20
> >I need.
I never had a problem with minimum orders for this stuff....? Just
ask them to stick a couple of em in an envelope...!
Randall Henderson, RV-6
randall(at)edt.com
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
Subject: | Question about washers |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stephen J. Soule"
Hi Mike,
I talked to Van's today and you are absolutely correct. The purpose
of the large washer is to capture the rod end in case of a bearing
failure. With the large washer in place the aileron control rod will
'flop' from side to side only a fraction of an inch instead of sliding
from side to side along the whole one inch length of the bolt/spacer.
The advise I got was to keep a couple of dozen of the large washers on
hand for similar applications. One example was on the throttle cable.
Steve Soule
Huntington, Vermont
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "John C. Devlin" <jdevlin(at)americus.net> |
Subject: | Re: spar construction |
--> RV-List message posted by: "John C. Devlin"
Craig,
This hydraulic press method worked very well for me and I recommend it to
you. In
retrospect, I would weld or bolt metal braces to keep the press frame perfectly
vertical during operation. Also the addition of limiter vise grip clamps at the
base of
the hydraulic bottle jack to prevent it from walking during operation is recommended.
I
taped 1/8 inch luan plywood shims between the frame and traveling part of the
press to
reduce the slop. They had to be periodically repositioned during operation. The
spar
needs to be checked for level in both directions prior to each press.
I set the press up so that the shop head was up and the manufactured head
down.
So from top to bottom the order was hydraulic press rod, shop head, spar, manufactured
head, die, 3/4 in tempered rod, and backing plates. The manufactured head die
was
fitted into a 6 in long piece of 3/4 in steel rod that I tempered. The tempering
consisted of simply repeatedly(about three times) heating the rod to cherry red
with a
propane torch and plunging it into used motor oil until cool. (Drill the hole
for the
die before tempering). This rod was placed in a wooden block as described in the
Klee
article and backed by the stock backing plates sold with the press. The wooden
block
was held in place with wood carpenter clamps that Harbor Freight also sells. The
rod
mushroomed a small amount but didn't interfer with the process. Paint was removed
from
the end of the press's rod end with sand paper. This was to prevent slipping and
prevent paint from being pressed into the rivet.
A platform was made from two courses of cinder blocks for the press frame.
This was
to bring the working area to eye level and reduce personal fatique. Three courses
might have worked better because my legs were really sore the next day from doing
six
hours of deep knee bends. Both spars only took six hours and the results look
excellent.
Roller in feed and out feeds are, in my opinion, a necessity. They can be
made or
purchased and are useful throughout the shop. These feeds were adjusted so that
the
manufactured head die is very slightly higher than the feeds but not enough to
effect
the level.
The rivets were held in place by masking tape which was removed as the rivet
and
spar were moved over the die prior to pressing. A feeler guage was used initially
to
insure a complete press but after a few rivets a MK1A eyeball and feeling the hydraulic
jack handle resistance was sufficient. While pressing, the rivet deformation
was
observed to abort the press if the rivet started to deform to one side. If this
was the
case, the press was raised a bit and level checked/corrected and pressing restarted.
Many of the rivets needed to be shortened to the accepatble length prior to pressing
because deformation to one side was a certainty if too long.
None of the rivets needed to be drilled out using this method. The process
took no
more than six hours and the results were excellent. Mr. Klee had a great idea
and I
thank him for sharing it with me.
Hope this helps,
John Devlin
RV6A, skinning wings, fuselage on order, really enjoying building, can't wait to
fly it
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Ammeter <ammeterj(at)seanet.com> |
Subject: | Re: Question about washers |
--> RV-List message posted by: John Ammeter
The reason for the wider washers is to hold the bearing together if it were
to come apart on you. Since that is the only purpose for the washers I
suppose you could make a couple washers from 0.032 2024 T4 stock. I've got
a bunch of 970-4's but that won't help you.
JA
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Stephen J. Soule"
>
>Does anyone know why the plans call out two large 970-3 washers in the=20
>inboard aileron hinge assembly? I only got two of these large washers=20
>with my RV-6 kit and used both of them on the left wing. I am now=20
>working on the right wing and I am wondering why I can't use smaller=20
>diameter washers to bear against the bearings.
>
>If I can use the smaller diameter washers I can avoid having to place=20
>a minimum order for =BC pound or 100 of the 970-3's just to get the two=20
>I need.
>
>Steve Soule
>Huntington Vermont
>
>
>
>
John Ammeter
ammeterj(at)seanet.com
3233 NE 95th St
Seattle WA, 98115 USA
206-525-5445
RV-6 N16JA
First flight August 1990
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Ammeter <ammeterj(at)seanet.com> |
Subject: | Re: Computers on board? |
--> RV-List message posted by: John Ammeter
Dennis,
I'm sure you know more than I'll ever know about radios. That said, I just
tried exactly what you said. I took my ICOM handheld (set to 122.775, if
that matters) and held it near my P-75 computer. I got no increase in
static and it didn't break squelch when I set the squelch with the radio
over 6 feet from the computer.
I've got a full size tower (Zeos) BTW.
John
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Dennis Persyk"
>
>
>
>----------
>> From: Chris Hinch <dcc.govt.nz!chris(at)matronics.com>
>> To: 'smtp:rv-list(at)matronics.com'
>> Subject: RV-List: Computers on board?
>> Date: Tuesday, June 17, 1997 5:53 PM
>>
>> --> RV-List message posted by: Chris Hinch
>>
>>
>>
>> Will a CPU upset other avionics? What about a stable power supply? Are
>> there any regulations that affect my ability to do this?
>
>Chris: A Pentium processor is a pretty good jamming device. If you have a
>handheld aircraft band transceiver, turn it on and bring it near an
>operating CPU. If you can get closer than 10 feet without breaking squelch
>you have an extraordinarily-well shielded computer. The RFI from the CPU
>is both radiated and conducted from the source, making shielding
>challenging.
>You might obtain some application notes from Intel on shielding. Low EMI
>(Electromagnetic Interference) enclosures for CPUs are commonplace.
>Dennis (amateur radio N9DP) 6A fuselage
>
>> Chris Hinch (RV8 to be - garage being turned into a workshop, buying
>tools)
>> Management Information Systems
>> Dunedin, Dunedin City Council
>> Internet : chris(at)dcc.govt.nz
>
>
John Ammeter
ammeterj(at)seanet.com
3233 NE 95th St
Seattle WA, 98115 USA
206-525-5445
RV-6 N16JA
First flight August 1990
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Steve Miceli <102630.1237(at)CompuServe.COM> |
Subject: | Re: spar construction |
--> RV-List message posted by: Steve Miceli <102630.1237(at)CompuServe.COM>
GET A HOLD OF A MAY '93 SPORT AVIATION MAGAZINE (CALL EAA FOR A BACK ISSUE IF
NECESSARY). IT IS EXPLAINED VERY NICELY BY TONY BINGELIS.
BY THE WAY, I AM CURRENTLY USING THE ARBOR PRESS METHOD, IT WORKS GREAT.
BEAUTIFUL SHOP HEADS EVERY TIME. PRACTICE ON A PIECE OF SCRAP FIRST TO
CALIBRATE YOUR ARM. GOOD LUCK!
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Mark S. Malone" <mmalone(at)dialus.com> |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Mark S. Malone"
I need some help from the electronics gurus. I'm putting .125" LED's
above each switch on my panel. The LED will light when the switch is
energizes the equipment, i.e., pitot heat, nav lights, strobe lights,
etc. I would like to be able to dim the LED's with a single dimmer. I
know I can do this with a relay for each switch or a double pole switch.
Is there anyway to do this with switching transitors? My Radio Shack
rep suggested this when we were discussing mounting the solid state
relays to a pc board. Obviously the transistors would be lighter. Any
ideas would be greatly appreciated.
Mark Malone
RV6A - Working on panel.
mmalone(at)dialus.com
Fax(417)881-0053
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Carb mounting |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jmcada(at)aol.com
REPLY TO CHET RAZER Re: Carb mounting
Chet,
Things might have changed, but RTV and gasoline do not like each other. The
RTV will swell up, two to three times normal size, and peel of in long thin
strands. Generally gum up the works.Try taking the RTV and sticking some in a
cup of gas overnight - see what happens.
I used to use a product, on race car fuel cells, that I believe was called
"HYLIMAR", made by Rolls Royce of England. It was blue, sticky. never got
hard, and never leaked. It may still be around ( or somethingf that does the
same job). Try a road racing, race car shop.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Finn Lassen <finnlass(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Subject: | Re: Rivet gun size |
--> RV-List message posted by: Finn Lassen
Thanks Scott.
After I posted the first question, I took a 1/2" thick piece of ALU and
set an AN470AD6- rivet in that against a bucking bar laying on the
floor. Using both hands on the rivet gun it was no problem.
I then went out and bought a 7.5 lbs piece of steel for a bucking bar. I
also duct taped a 1 - 2 lbs round bucking bar to the top of the rivit
gun. With that I managed to set the rivets in the spar.
Scott Lawson wrote:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Scott Lawson"
>
> It is a 4x gun and CP guns are usually strong hitting. Two possible
> solutions. If you use an in-line oiler or put oil directly into the gun,
> try using some contact cleaner in it. They can gum up over time. If you
> bought it used it is possible that someone has taken it apart before. Guns
> can be tuned for optimum performance by turning the barrel and it may have
> been put back together without consideration for this.
> > --> RV-List message posted by: Finn Lassen
> > I'm having a hard time setting the AN470AD6- rivets. My rivet gun is
> > a Chicago Pneumatic CP-4444 AERO S CYL. Is that a 4x gun? It was
> > sold as a 3/16" capacity but...
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | landings-diginews(at)landings.com (LANDINGS DIGI-NEWS) |
Subject: | LANDINGS: Correction/Apology |
--> RV-List message posted by: landings-diginews(at)landings.com (LANDINGS DIGI-NEWS)
Greetings,
We would like to offer a correction and an apology to those of you who have
received the first issue of the LANDINGS DIGI-NEWS with a wrong reply
address.
The correct reply address should have been landings-diginews(at)landings.com (as specified
at the end of the mailing). Instead it appeared as NoReply(at)NoReply.org.
This was an unintentional, unfortunate error for which we would like to offer
our most sincere apology.
We hope that you found the content of the LANDINGS DIGI-NEWS of interest and of
value.
Thanks for your forbearance :-)
LANDINGS.COM (landings(at)landings.com)
P.S
If you received multiple copies of this notice please do the following:
send email to: landings-diginews(at)landings.com
in the body of the email include: unsub emailaddress
to add a different address do the following:
send email to: landings-diginews(at)landings.com
in the body of the email include: subscribe emailaddress
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)navix.net> |
Subject: | Re: Prop bolt lock-plate/torque wrench |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bob Skinner
>--> RV-List message posted by: MAlexan533(at)aol.com
>
>Does anyone know where to buy the prop bolt lock plates? Or do you have to go
>have one made by a machinist? I'm getting tired of removing my spinner to
>check bolt torques. Also, can I use an end wrench extension on a torque
>wrench so that I don't have to remove the cowling to check the torque? Would
>this still be reasonably accurate? Thanks.
Van's sells the grooved crush plate. You may have to buy new bolts. When I
was running a wood prop, I removed the top cowl to check torque. I used a
"crowfoot (?)" (a really short extension) on my torque wrench. My
Craftsman torque wrench had the formula to use if you use extensions with
the torque wrench.
Bob Skinner RV-6 BSkinner(at)navix.net
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | ed loveday <eloveday(at)ici.net> |
Subject: | Re: question on floor |
--> RV-List message posted by: ed loveday
>--> RV-List message posted by: Leo Davies
>
>>
>>>Also in fitting the floor covers under the seats, the ribs are not level.
>>>It looks like if the floor gets riveted down it will be pulling on the
>>>flanges or bend the floor panels. Did anyone else run into this??
>>
>>I thought they had fixed this, guess not. On mine all the ribs were
>>fine except the end ones, which came out approx. 1/8" to 3/16" low. I
>>just riveted some shims to the tops of the rib flanges.
>>
>>Randall Henderson, RV-6
>>randall(at)edt.com
>>http://www.edt.com/homewing
>>
>Randall,
>
>I'm delighted that mine will not be the only RV with 1/8 shims on top of the
>outboard seat rib flanges.
>
>Leo Davies
>
>leo(at)icn.su.oz.au
>
>
Hi,
When I asked Van about the same problem with mine, he sounded genuinely
surprised, and agreed that 1/8 shims should be the proper fix. Y'all are'nt
alone!
Ed Loveday
eloveday(at)ici.net
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | ed loveday <eloveday(at)ici.net> |
Subject: | Re: Computers on board? |
--> RV-List message posted by: ed loveday
At 11:53 18/06/97 NZT, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Chris Hinch
>
>
>Without wanting to sound too much like a *complete* nerd, what difficulties
>are involved in integrating a PC into my RV-8 to be? The potential
>application is a custom developed GPS/moving map display/flight mgmt system
>connected to a 6" panel mounted active matrix screen driven from a P100
>cpu/motherboard (no "essential" functions).
>
>Given the assumptions that (1) the board is mounted in an appropriate
>manner regarding cooling, (2) that the hard disk wuld be replaced with a
>solid state hard disk (fewer power demands, no moving parts to get upset by
>aerobatics), (3) that I can develop robust/stable code (it may not be
>pretty, but it *will* be robust) and (4) that I understand it may not be
>cost effective to do so, what other hidden traps are there?
>
>Will a CPU upset other avionics? What about a stable power supply? Are
>there any regulations that affect my ability to do this?
>
>I'll get in first with the "Intel Inside" jokes - maybe I could hide some of
>those canopy cracks I've been reading about with one of those little
>stickers....
>
>Many thanks to the list in advance
>_______________________________________________________
>
>Chris Hinch (RV8 to be - garage being turned into a workshop, buying tools)
>Management Information Systems
>Dunedin, Dunedin City Council
>Internet : chris(at)dcc.govt.nz
>
>
Chris,
Don't remember just who it was, but someone has been displaying just
such a rig at Oshkosh for the past 2 years. Still in development, but
most definitely a panel mount PC. I'll bet I can find a flier around here
on it if that'll be any help-just let me know & I'll start digging.
Regards,
Ed Loveday
RV-6 fuselage - 90%done - 45% to go!
eloveday(at)ici.net
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Sliding Canopy Skirt Cap (Crass Commercialism) |
--> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog(at)aol.com
If anyone is interested, I have made a form for that little joining piece
(cap) that joins, sits atop the rear skirts and is shaped to clear the canopy
rail. I will sell hydraulically formed caps (3"W X 5"L formed of .032" thk
2024-T4 alclad) for $10 each if you want them. They are planar for the first
3.5" and then the center 1"W gradually raises up out of plane in a 3/8" high
wedge over the last 1.5". So order now, I'm hoping to retire early and live
on the profits.
-Gary VanRemortel
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: In strument Panel Tilt and Attitude Gyros |
--> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog(at)aol.com
<< I talked with an engineer at R. C. Allen this morning who alleges that
tilt
correction has the sole purpose of centering the artificial horizon on the
miniature "airplane" in the gyro case and has nothing to do with
reliability. >>
I believe your information to be correct. I got the same info from both IFR
and my local gyro tech when I ordered my 10 degree gyro.
Incidentally I've always set the AG in trigears while on the ground just
before takeoff so that the miniature airplane is centered on the artificial
horizon. Is this imprecise and is it considered better form to adjust it in
the air when you know you're level at cruise? You guys should have told me
that I've been doing it wrong all these years. Oh, the embarassment.....
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Alternator modifications, Avionics order |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a@germany-c.it.earthlink.net>
Listers,
I ordered most of my panel today. My wallet is unconscious. It may
have stopped breathing. Call 911! Thanks to all who shared ideas on
gyros for tilted panels, gyro hookups, GPS suggestions, etc. I
appreciate it.
Alternator: I need a big alternator (60 A) to run my night/IFR
electrical load. I have the mounting kit from Van's, which suggests
a Mazda 323 alternator (65 amps). That's fine, except it has an
internal regulator. Does anybody have any experience to share on
either disabling internal regulators or finding automotive
alternators without internal regualtors?
Thanks,
Tim
---------------------
Tim Lewis
RV-6AQ #60023
San Antonio TX
timrv6a(at)earthlink.net or
timrv6a(at)iname.com
-----------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Subject: | Re: Computers on board? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dennis Persyk"
John,
When I bring my Icom near my Gateway P133 I get all kinds of pulse
interference. The ANL button (automatic noise limiter) is in the off
position to get the interference. The interference is strongest near CRT,
but it seems to come from both the case and the CRT. Perhaps the Zeos is
better shielded than the Gateway. I'm glad to hear that not all computers
are as noisy as mine. It sounds as though Chris will have less of a
potential problem with RFI than I thought. Thanks for the good news! Any
other listers try the handheld test?
Dennis
----------
> From: John Ammeter <seanet.com!ammeterj(at)matronics.com>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Computers on board?
> Date: Wednesday, June 18, 1997 4:19 PM
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: John Ammeter
>
> Dennis,
>
> I'm sure you know more than I'll ever know about radios. That said, I
just
> tried exactly what you said. I took my ICOM handheld (set to 122.775, if
> that matters) and held it near my P-75 computer. I got no increase in
> static and it didn't break squelch when I set the squelch with the radio
> over 6 feet from the computer.
>
> I've got a full size tower (Zeos) BTW.
>
> John
>
>
>
>
> >--> RV-List message posted by: "Dennis Persyk"
> >
> >
> >
> >----------
> >> From: Chris Hinch <dcc.govt.nz!chris(at)matronics.com>
> >> To: 'smtp:rv-list(at)matronics.com'
> >> Subject: RV-List: Computers on board?
> >> Date: Tuesday, June 17, 1997 5:53 PM
> >>
> >> --> RV-List message posted by: Chris Hinch
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> Will a CPU upset other avionics? What about a stable power supply?
Are
> >> there any regulations that affect my ability to do this?
> >
> >Chris: A Pentium processor is a pretty good jamming device. If you have
a
> >handheld aircraft band transceiver, turn it on and bring it near an
> >operating CPU. If you can get closer than 10 feet without breaking
squelch
> >you have an extraordinarily-well shielded computer. The RFI from the
CPU
> >is both radiated and conducted from the source, making shielding
> >challenging.
> >You might obtain some application notes from Intel on shielding. Low
EMI
> >(Electromagnetic Interference) enclosures for CPUs are commonplace.
> >Dennis (amateur radio N9DP) 6A fuselage
> >
> >> Chris Hinch (RV8 to be - garage being turned into a workshop, buying
> >tools)
> >> Management Information Systems
> >> Dunedin, Dunedin City Council
> >> Internet : chris(at)dcc.govt.nz
> >
> >
> John Ammeter
> ammeterj(at)seanet.com
> 3233 NE 95th St
> Seattle WA, 98115 USA
> 206-525-5445
> RV-6 N16JA
> First flight August 1990
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | chester razer <crazer(at)egyptian.net> |
Subject: | Re: Carb mounting |
--> RV-List message posted by: chester razer
aol.com!Jmcada(at)matronics.com wrote:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Jmcada(at)aol.com
>
> REPLY TO CHET RAZER Re: Carb mounting
>
> Chet,
>
> Things might have changed, but RTV and gasoline do not like each other. The
> RTV will swell up, two to three times normal size, and peel of in long thin
> strands. Generally gum up the works.Try taking the RTV and sticking some in a
> cup of gas overnight - see what happens.
> I used to use a product, on race car fuel cells, that I believe was called
> "HYLIMAR", made by Rolls Royce of England. It was blue, sticky. never got
> hard, and never leaked. It may still be around ( or somethingf that does the
> same job). Try a road racing, race car shop.
Thanks for the tip, I'll peel off the Red RTV tomorrow and replace it
with something that is fuel resistant.
--
Chet Razer
crazer(at)egyptian.net
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Ian Dadd <gidadd(at)tpgi.com.au> |
--> RV-List message posted by: Ian Dadd
Hi,
I was lurking, waiting for a concensus on the right method to get 25 =
degrees down elevator travel when I fell off the RV-List. Back on now =
and can't access the archive for this info. Notch the Wd405's or the =
HS603's ? It won't need to be much in my case - just enough to get =
about 5-7 degrees. Not only but also: I am making that great pilgramage =
to Oshkosh and would like to catch up with other RV-Listers. Is there a =
quiet bar close handy? See your there.
Cheers,
Ian
RV-6 just finishing off the empennage - opening the wing box!
Broome West Australia
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Elon <elon.o(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Subject: | Re: Computers on board? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Elon
John Ammeter wrote:
I'm sure you know more than I'll ever know about radios. That said, I just
> tried exactly what you said. I took my ICOM handheld (set to 122.775, if
> that matters) and held it near my P-75 computer. I got no increase in
> static and it didn't break squelch when I set the squelch with the radio
> over 6 feet from the computer.
-------------------------------
I just had to try it too. Funny thing John, I set my handheld ICOM to 121.5 (If
there is one
frequency that I want to work it's that one) and got blown out of the airwaves.
Specifically, I turned up the squelch to get the background static and then moved
the antenna
near and about my RUNNING 133Mhz computer. I didn't notice any change in the static.
I then
turned OFF the computer. WOW! what a change (much less).
Now try this. I then put the radio antenna right next to the cpu (case cover removed)
and turned
on the switch. What a blast listening that thing boot-up THROUGH MY RADIO. I could
almost hear
it single-stepping through the boot program. (Just kidding). However, it did change
pitch
numerous times during the boot process and then settled down to stable background
noise. I had no
idea it produced so much RF. I don't even want to compute in the nude anymore!
:-)
-Elon
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Leo Davies <leo(at)icn.su.OZ.AU> |
Subject: | Re: Elevator travel |
--> RV-List message posted by: Leo Davies
Ian,
Notch the HS603s
Leo Davies,
Sydney
leo(at)icn.su.oz.au
Missing Cable Beach already
At 11:46 AM 6/19/97 +-800, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Ian Dadd
>
>Hi,
>I was lurking, waiting for a concensus on the right method to get 25
degrees down elevator travel when I fell off the RV-List. Back on now and
can't access the archive for this info. Notch the Wd405's or the HS603's ?
It won't need to be much in my case - just enough to get about 5-7 degrees.
Not only but also: I am making that great pilgramage to Oshkosh and would
like to catch up with other RV-Listers. Is there a quiet bar close handy?
See your there.
>Cheers,
>Ian
>RV-6 just finishing off the empennage - opening the wing box!
>Broome West Australia
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Chris Hinch <chris(at)dcc.govt.nz> |
Subject: | Re: Computers on board? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Chris Hinch
>position to get the interference. The interference is strongest near
CRT,
>but it seems to come from both the case and the CRT. Perhaps the Zeos
is
>better shielded than the Gateway. I'm glad to hear that not all
computers
>are as noisy as mine. It sounds as though Chris will have less of a
>potential problem with RFI than I thought. Thanks for the good news!
Thanks to the list for all the help to date. The RF issue was one that I
wasn't sure about. My thoughts were sparked by seeing the new Libretto
(Toshiba?), which cries out to be the display/computational component of
an small GPS/flight management system - or is it just me? Industrialise
and shield the case, split the screen from the body and panel mount it,
connect a slimline COM/GPS, spend a few sleepless months writing code and
ta-dah! (although I agree that my time would be probably better spent
with rivet gun in hand, well, I guess, the tools you know....)
A colleague tells me that active matrix screens are worse than the CPU at
screaming RFI, and certain frequencies are worse than others... I guess
the only way is to get one airborne, and see what happens. Once again,
many thanks to the list for your input. This is a superb resource for
RVers - my apologies for my somewhat off-topic question.
Chris
chris(at)dcc.govt.nz
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Leo Davies <leo(at)icn.su.OZ.AU> |
Subject: | Re: Sliding Canopy Skirt Cap (Crass Commercialism) |
--> RV-List message posted by: Leo Davies
Anyone building a slider should take Gary up on this offer. It took me a
weekend and 30 iterations of bending Alclad with a hand seamer to get one I
could live with and even then I don't like it much. Would that I had not
rivited mine on. Aaaaarrrgghh
Leo Davies
leo(at)icn.su.oz.au
>--> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog(at)aol.com
>
>If anyone is interested, I have made a form for that little joining piece
>(cap) that joins, sits atop the rear skirts and is shaped to clear the canopy
>rail. I will sell hydraulically formed caps (3"W X 5"L formed of .032" thk
>2024-T4 alclad) for $10 each if you want them. They are planar for the first
>3.5" and then the center 1"W gradually raises up out of plane in a 3/8" high
>wedge over the last 1.5". So order now, I'm hoping to retire early and live
>on the profits.
>
>-Gary VanRemortel
>vanremog(at)aol.com
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | cfggg <ddebt(at)pathcom.com> |
--> RV-List message posted by: cfggg
That reversed NACA vent is just an odd shaped submerged outlet. The shaped
ramp walls are designed for flow going toward the inlet. A straight sided
ramp (parallel) would probably be more effective and create less drag.
The idea of venting the cabin is a good one.
David Fried
> I can't say anything on drag on cabin outflow. There is a RV-6 I
>have seen with a NACA airflow unit installed in reverse on the bottom of the
>fuselage near the tail. If recall correctly it had a door install for
>control. It has been a couple of years since I saw it. At the time he
>remarked that it greatly improved both heating and cooling, I believe he
>remarked that his canopy didn't bulge as much in flight.
>
> If he is on the net maybe he could correct anything I was wrong on.
>
>Has anyone else played with that idea?
>
>
>
>Have good day!
>
>Denny
>RV-6/ Fuselage (R)N641DH
>Lebanon, OR
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | catbird(at)taylortel.com (TTC Carroll A. Bird) |
Subject: | Re: Question about washers |
--> RV-List message posted by: catbird(at)taylortel.com (TTC Carroll A. Bird)
Stephen J. Soule wrote:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Stephen J. Soule"
>
> I only got two of these large washers
> with my RV-6 kit and used both of them on the left wing.
>
> Steve Soule
> Huntington Vermont
They still havn't fixed this problem. I had the same thing on my
RV-4. Just call or e-mail Van's and they will send you two more. In
fact, there has been several shortages, and too short bolts, and they
have sent me what I needed without charge.
Carroll
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Frank van der Hulst <frankv(at)pec.co.nz> |
Subject: | Re: Computers on board? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Frank van der Hulst
I have a *little* experience and knowledge of this stuff.
Firstly, a lot of the RF from computers comes from the high-voltage
circuitry in the CRT screen. If the intereference varies depending on
what's on the screen, then the screen is the source of the problem. If
you have an LCD screen, I believe this is a non-issue.
Secondly, a fair amount of the rest comes from the power supply. I think
that a computer running off its batteries (which are being recharged
from the 12V DC supply) won't generate much noise from the power supply
compared to a 220V power supply.
Thirdly, the higher clock speed CPUs generate RF direct from the
motherboard. However, many of these (and especially on laptops) now run
on 3V instead of 5V. Maybe they'll be less noisy?
Fourthly, I think good design can remove/reduce the RF. A cheap PC with
a cheap power supply will be much noisier than a quality machine. Direct
experience: my old Taiwanese 8088 caused my neighbour across the road to
complain about how it interfered with his TV. However, this only
affected one channel (of two). So the RF emitted may be on only a few
frequencies. In this case, I figured the problem was the PC's power
supply.
Fifthly, I have used a laptop (IBM Thinkpad 720C) as a moving map and
logger for my GPS a couple of times in a C172. On neither occasion did I
notice any adverse effects on the radios (or anything else). However, I
didn't do much in the way of checking for these adverse effects.
As I said, my knowledge is limited; I'm open to correction. My
experience is more in terms of software than hardware.
Frank.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | catbird(at)taylortel.com (TTC Carroll A. Bird) |
Subject: | Re: Question about washers |
--> RV-List message posted by: catbird(at)taylortel.com (TTC Carroll A. Bird)
Randall Henderson wrote:
>
>
> You may actually only need one per side. If you look at dwg 21, detail
> 'A', you will see it says "AN970-3 2 REQ'D".
No. You need two per side. One for the aileron hinge mount, and one for
the push rod.
Carroll
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | catbird(at)taylortel.com (TTC Carroll A. Bird) |
Subject: | Re: Computers on board? |
--> RV-List message posted by: catbird(at)taylortel.com (TTC Carroll A. Bird)
Elon wrote:
>
>
> I don't even want to compute in the nude anymore! :-)
> -Elon Do you think clothes will protect you from RF emissions?
Maybe you should wear lead drawers. :-)
Carroll
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | catbird(at)taylortel.com (TTC Carroll A. Bird) |
--> RV-List message posted by: catbird(at)taylortel.com (TTC Carroll A. Bird)
law.ua.edu!jcolquit(at)matronics.com wrote:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: jcolquit(at)law.ua.edu
>
> Tom Martin asked:
>
> >
> The round alumimum disks are extremely light and readily available -
> and they fit neatly into an inspection plate so no structure is
> affected on the aircraft fuselage.
>
> Joseph A. (Joe) Colquitt Where do you get these round aluminum disks?
How do you get the
air in the -4?
Carroll, RV-4
Fuselage on the gear.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Tom Martin <fairlea(at)execulink.com> |
--> RV-List message posted by: Tom Martin
>--> RV-List message posted by: Mlfred(at)aol.com
>
>
><< On my RV-4 I have no problem getting air into the cockpit. My question is
> where does the air go?
>
> On my current project I am at the stage where I could put in some
> vents in the right location, if there is one,
> >>
>
>Tom:
>
>
>
>Think of it like this: Where is there low pressure? I'm sure the air is at
>least 'trying' to go there.
>
>Air comes in the front, and presumably out the back. OK, but thow does it get
>there? On the -4, it would flow around the rear seat back, thru the luggage
>compartment, and out near the tail. So, where is the low pressure area at the
>tail? Under the horiz stab, of course. I see many folks with a nice seal
>under the stab, but this is where I think most of the cabin air exits the
>fuse. You should put some 1/8" hardware cloth in this area to keep the
>critters out, tho. You may also want to put an outlet in the rear baggage
>bulkhead, say 4" dia, and also use hardware cloth here.
>
>I'm not sure the "leakage" around the rudder/v stab is enough.
>
>So, how are you getting the air in? -4 listers would like to know.
>
>Check six!
>Mark
I agree with what you have said above Mark and it is what I have on my
current RV-4. The air comes from two tubes hooked up to the back engine baffle.
I am not sure if the right place to dump the exit air is the rear stab area.
Check out a real Spitfire. Everything is sealed and all control rods have
boots. I am sure that they did not want air getting out at the wrong place.
what about an out let on the fuse bottom as someone suggested?
Tom Martin
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | RodWoodard <rodwoodard(at)mcione.com> |
Subject: | Tailwheel Transition Story |
--> RV-List message posted by: RodWoodard
Hello folks:
I've watched several "nose vs. tailwheel" discussions over the past few
years. Since I sold my Cherokee and I'm building (slowly) an RV-8, I
thought it'd be a good idea to get a tailwheel checkout. I really had no
idea what to expect. Like most people, I'd heard stories ranging from
ex-B52 flyers who said they soloed some T-craft or whatever in 3 hours to
others who've told me it took them 20+ hours to transition to tailwheels
after 1000's of hours in nosedraggers.
For anyone who's interested, here's my story of transitioning: First, my
statistics: 640 hours total time, private pilot, single engine in August
1990, instrument in 1997. Most of my time has been in my Cherokee 140
(approx. 560 hours), with the balance spread out in various Cessnas. Within
the last year or so I've been flying approximately 10-15 hours per month.
Last August I found a local fish & game pilot who was offering lessons in
his SuperCub. I flew 2.2 hours with him at that time. He wasn't all that
wild about renting the Cub after the signoff so I didn't continue the
lessons with him. Since I sold the Cherokee and was (am) suffering from
serious airplane withdrawal, I started looking for a local tailwheel
airplane for rent. I found a Citabria GCBC at a nearby airport. $48/hour
wet with no club fees or dues. Rental requirement was a checkout with one
of their instructors. No minimum number of hours or hours in make and model
required.
I started flying on Wednesday and Sunday each week. I've taken a total of 5
lessons (approx. 6 hours) and my instructor informed me last night that
he's going to solo me on Sunday.
To anyone worrying about whether or not to build a tailwheel version of
whatever RV, let me just offer the following: TAILWHEEL FLYING IS NOT THAT
DIFFICULT. I am no superpilot and I will transition in less than 10 hours!
I don't know if this is longer or shorter than usual. I might be setting
myself up for ridicule admitting that it took me a whole 10 hours, but it
doesn't really matter to me. I just wanted all of you who are out there
wondering just what's really involved to hear a real-life recent story of a
mere mortal pilot transitioning to a tailwheel bird.
Happy flying to everybody.
Rod Woodard
Loveland, Colorado
RV-8, #80033 (wings arriving in 3 weeks?!?)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Kevin Shelton <k.j.shelton(at)larc.nasa.gov> |
Subject: | !! Virginia State EAA Regional Fly-In !! |
--> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Shelton
CALLING ALL RV ENTHUSIASTS! Mark your calendars. June 28-29, 1997
Virginia is having its First Annual State Fly-in!!
Virginia State EAA Regional Fly-In sponsored by the Virginia Council of EAA
chapters, with support from the Virginia Department of Aviation, will take
place at Petersburg-Dinwiddie Airport (KPTB). Pancake breakfast Sunday
morning from 8:00 a.m.- 11 a.m.
Homebuilts, War Birds, Ultralights. Forums, workshops, seminars. Aircraft
Judging and Awards. Aviation fun for everyone!
They are really trying to make it the Mid-East coast sun'n fun, but not so
huge to make it difficult to get in and out. PTB is ~20nm SSE of Richmond
(KRIC).
Lets see a great RV turn-out and have a good time! Hope to see you there.
More info at http://members.aol.com/N100RV/EAA_Council.html
Kevin Shelton KA4UWE
NASA Langley Research Center, Hampton VA
(757) 864-4470 k.j.shelton(at)larc.nasa.gov
http://members.aol.com/EAA156
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Master & battery relays on Battery Box? |
From: | ebundy(at)juno.com (Ed Bundy) |
--> RV-List message posted by: ebundy(at)juno.com (Ed Bundy)
>I need some input from those of you who have mounted your master and
>battery relays on the battery box. It appears that this would make it
>difficult to remove the battery box and gain access to the battery
>without disconnecting cables from the relays.
>
>How did you do it? WHere and how did you run the cable from the
>battery to the master relay, and the cable from the starter relay to the
starter?
Hi Dave. I wondered about that too. I ended up mounting both relays on
the firewall (inside) within a few inches of the battery box. The cables
enter the side of the box at the front. These go through thick grommets
placed in a "U" shaped hole in the box so the box can be pulled rearward
leaving the cable and it's grommet intact next to the firewall. If this
is unclear I can try again. The master relay is on the right side of the
box, and the starter relay is on the left side. The cable from the
starter relay goes directly from the starter to the relay, eliminating
any bends or twists inside the firewall.
Ed Bundy RV6A - first flight 11/20/96
ebundy(at)juno.com - Eagle, ID
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stephen J. Soule"
There was a good write-up in Sport Aviation about high and low
pressure mapping of Steve Barnard's RV last month. It might reveal
the location of high and low pressure areas on your RV-4's.
Steve Soule
Huntington, Vermont
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Charlie Kuss <charliekuss(at)sprintmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: Carb mounting |
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss
Chet,
I'm not the "spelling police" but it might be easier to find the product
refered to below if you know that it's called HYLOMAR. Locktite makes it
under licinse from Rolls Royce. I get it at my local auto parts store. i
think it's a great product too. One advantage it has over other sealers
is that if you are sealing a surface that has an oil or cooling
passageway going through it, there is no chance of plugging the
passageway up if you use too much Hylomar near it. Since it never
becomes totally hard, any excess which blocks the passageway (like an
oil galley/return) will be pushed through by the passing fluid. Gasoline
definitely desolves RTV.
Charlie Kuss
RV-8 tail kit came yesterday
REPLY TO CHET RAZER Re: Carb mounting
Chet,
Things might have changed, but RTV and gasoline do not like each other.
I used to use a product, on race car fuel cells, that I believe was
called
"HYLIMAR", made by Rolls Royce of England.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | dougm(at)mailhost.physio-control.com (Doug Medema) |
--> RV-List message posted by: dougm(at)mailhost.physio-control.com (Doug Medema)
I need a favor: I can't find my dang optional parts
catalog and want to order a couple of things.
Specifically: Could someone email me with the part
numbers (and listed price) for the left and right steps?
Thanks in advance.
Doug Medema email: dougm@physio-control.com
-6A, skinning the fuselage.
P.S. Sure would be nice if VANS would get the whole
parts catalog on their web page. Hint, Hint!
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Charlie Kuss <charliekuss(at)sprintmail.com> |
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss
Mark,
A very simple way to accomplish this would be to tie all the ground
leads of your LED's together. Run one common wire to a rheostat. Run
another wire from the rheostat to ground. This is how the dome light
circuit on your car works.
Most circuits have constant ground and a switched power source. This
circuit merely installs a variable resistor (rheostat) into the path
from the LED's to ground. Mercedes Benz, Honda and others use seperate
instrument panel dimmer switches (rheostats). One of these would work
great.
Charlie Kuss
RV-8 tail kit came yesterday
Mark S. Malone wrote:
snipped
> I need some help from the electronics gurus. I'm putting .125" LED's
> above each switch on my panel. The LED will light when the switch is
> energizes the equipment, i.e., pitot heat, nav lights, strobe lights,
> etc. I would like to be able to dim the LED's with a single dimmer.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Darrell L. Anderson" <d.l.anderson(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Subject: | Master & battery relays on Battery Box? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Darrell L. Anderson"
--> RV-List message posted by: Bob Skinner
-Snip-
The two relays are mounted side by side with the terminals verticlely.
-Snip-
I seem to remember reading somewhere that relays should be
mounted with the terminals horizontal, so that the solenoid
armature would not drag in the coil due to gravity.
Can anybody help on this.
Vertical will probably work...for a while.
D. Anderson
RV-4 (wings)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Robert Acker <r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Subject: | Re: Tailwheel Transition Story |
--> RV-List message posted by: Robert Acker
>To anyone worrying about whether or not to build a tailwheel version of
>whatever RV, let me just offer the following: TAILWHEEL FLYING IS NOT THAT
>DIFFICULT.
>
>Rod Woodard
Thanks Ron!
Now I won't feel so bad when I look at my tailspring. It regularly taunts
me with "think you can handle it Mr. Nosegear?" type jabs...but no more .
Rob Acker / r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com / RV-6Q
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Mike Wills <willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil> |
--> RV-List message posted by: Mike Wills
Its my understanding that the ideal place for an outlet is in a low pressure
turbulent flow point on the airframe. The intent is to allow the low
pressure to help draw the air out. If placed correctly the exit can be
smaller ofr the same amount of airflow. Typically the bottom of the fuse is
a high pressure point.
In fact according to theory (as told by far more knowledgeable people than
me) the cooling system used on our RV's is all wrong and is a concession to
aesthetics. Air should enter at the bottom of the cowl, flow up through the
engine baffling, and out at the top or sides of the cowl. Look at the AR-5
or Rutan's Boomerang and see how the exits were done. Tony B. also has some
examples in one of his books.
Mike Wills
RV-4 (wings)
willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil
>boots. I am sure that they did not want air getting out at the wrong place.
>what about an out let on the fuse bottom as someone suggested?
>
>Tom Martin
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | mauser(at)claris.com (Richard Chandler) |
Subject: | Re: LANDINGS: Correction/Apology |
--> RV-List message posted by: mauser(at)claris.com (Richard Chandler)
> We would like to offer a correction and an apology to those of you
> who have received the first issue of the LANDINGS DIGI-NEWS with a
> wrong reply address.
>
> The correct reply address should have been landings-diginews@
> landings.com (as specified at the end of the mailing). Instead
> it appeared as NoReply(at)NoReply.org. This was an
> unintentional, unfortunate error for which we would like to offer our
> most sincere apology.
>
> We hope that you found the content of the LANDINGS DIGI-NEWS of
> interest and of value.
>
> Thanks for your forbearance :-)
So basically you're telling us that you used the RV list to generate a mailing
list that you used for the spam I received this morning? Yeah, I got two
copies of the message that claimed to contain news (And may have) but
consisted mainly of teasers to make people go to your web site to read the
rest of the articles.
Even if your spirit is pure, spam is wrong, and using the RV-List to gather
addresses is personally offensive to me.
AND you patronized the creators of spam-generating software, designed to forge
headers and duck resposibility for messages (NoReply.org). You gave money to
the lowest of the low, the people who are ruining the net for everyone.
I remember seeing your site ages ago and commenting about some bad HTML
practices, like the nearly 500 character title you had in the tag. I
sent you mail telling you how that might cause some browsers to crash since
they all set the window title to the . No response, and no change.
--
On the Internet, nobody knows you're a dog... but they can tell right
off the bat if you're an idiot! -- Me
http://www.teleport.com/~mauser/ Gallery Web Page
"Yeah, I've got ADD, wanna make something of.... oooh, cool. Look!"
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Edward Cole <emcole(at)concentric.net> |
Subject: | Re: Part numbers |
--> RV-List message posted by: Edward Cole
Doug Medema wrote:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: dougm(at)mailhost.physio-control.com (Doug Medema)
>
> I need a favor: I can't find my dang optional parts
> catalog and want to order a couple of things.
>
> Specifically: Could someone email me with the part
> numbers (and listed price) for the left and right steps?
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Doug Medema email: dougm@physio-control.com
> -6A, skinning the fuselage.
>
> P.S. Sure would be nice if VANS would get the whole
> parts catalog on their web page. Hint, Hint!
I don't have the catalog in front of me but I believe they are $79 each
Ed Cole
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "les williams" <lesliebwilliams(at)msn.com> |
--> RV-List message posted by: "les williams"
RV-6/6A STEP KIT LEFT $79.50
RV-6/6A STEP KIT RT $79.50
(Taken from April '97 Accessories Catalog)
Les
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Grant E. Young" <gyoung(at)crl.nmsu.edu> |
Subject: | Re: Tailwheel Transition Story |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Grant E. Young"
Hi,
I would just like to second Ron's tailwheel transition story...I just had
my first "conventional gear" lesson on Monday, and to be honest, I was a
bit nervous about it. However, it was great. Granted, we only did a few
landings and about 15 minutes of taxiing, but it was just no problem at
all. My only impression is that you have to have your feet on the rudder
peddles all the time and really be ready to use them. I have little
doubt that after a few more lessons, I'll definitely be ready for my RV-6
(but, will it be ready for me???). BTW, I only have 230 hours TT.
On another note, just curious what people have used to fill in the pop
rivet holes after priming and before painting.
grant in NM
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Michael Gamble" <Micky_G(at)msn.com> |
Subject: | Computers on board? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Michael Gamble"
I may be blowing smoke here, I'm not sure, but wouldn't the interference from
the computer discounting the power supply, and monitor, be confined to what
ever the clock rate of the computer? I mean if the processor is running at
133mhz, wouldn't the crystal that sets the rate be emitting at 133mhz? I guess
I really don't understand the problem.
When I get the opportunity, to build a plane, I'd like to be able to do some
experimenting with a computer on board. I think the biggest problem with any
installation and one that makes me curious about the other computer
installations, is a reliable power supply? Anyone who has seen the inside of a
good computer power supply will understand how much filtering is done to get a
reliable 5 volt DC supply.
Mick
----------
From: owner-rv-list(at)matronics.com on behalf of Frank van der Hulst
Sent: Thursday, June 19, 1997 3:20 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Computers on board?
--> RV-List message posted by: Frank van der Hulst
I have a *little* experience and knowledge of this stuff.
Firstly, a lot of the RF from computers comes from the high-voltage
circuitry in the CRT screen. If the intereference varies depending on
what's on the screen, then the screen is the source of the problem. If
you have an LCD screen, I believe this is a non-issue.
Secondly, a fair amount of the rest comes from the power supply. I think
that a computer running off its batteries (which are being recharged
from the 12V DC supply) won't generate much noise from the power supply
compared to a 220V power supply.
Thirdly, the higher clock speed CPUs generate RF direct from the
motherboard. However, many of these (and especially on laptops) now run
on 3V instead of 5V. Maybe they'll be less noisy?
Fourthly, I think good design can remove/reduce the RF. A cheap PC with
a cheap power supply will be much noisier than a quality machine. Direct
experience: my old Taiwanese 8088 caused my neighbour across the road to
complain about how it interfered with his TV. However, this only
affected one channel (of two). So the RF emitted may be on only a few
frequencies. In this case, I figured the problem was the PC's power
supply.
Fifthly, I have used a laptop (IBM Thinkpad 720C) as a moving map and
logger for my GPS a couple of times in a C172. On neither occasion did I
notice any adverse effects on the radios (or anything else). However, I
didn't do much in the way of checking for these adverse effects.
As I said, my knowledge is limited; I'm open to correction. My
experience is more in terms of software than hardware.
Frank.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Mark S. Jennings" <markjenn(at)halcyon.com> |
Subject: | In strument Panel Tilt and Attitude Gyros |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Mark S. Jennings"
>> Incidentally I've always set the AG in trigears while on the ground just
>> before takeoff so that the miniature airplane is centered on the
artificial
>> horizon. Is this imprecise and is it considered better form to adjust
it in
>> the air when you know you're level at cruise?
For VFR, is doesn't matter much. But for IFR, I think it is very
important. It IS NOT critical that you adjust it to any absolute position;
it IS critical that you adjust it once, leave it alone, and use this
calibration to develop a set of power settings and pitch attitudes that
result in predicatable climb/descent performance for the different phases
of IFR flight: initial climb, cruise climb, cruise, cruise descent,
glideslope descent, and go-around. I fly IFR infrequently and having these
"numbers" memorized is the only way I can fly comfortably and smoothly.
Your settings will make most sense if you adjust the airplane to lay on the
horizon when you are in normal cruise.
All explained in much greater detail in "Positive Flying" by
Taylor/Gunther. Recommended, although the data in the book is for
production stuff, not homebuilts. It does lay out what you need to do to
calibrate your own plane.
- Mark (RV8 wannabe)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
Subject: | Master & battery relays - horizontal? |
--> RV-List message posted by: halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne)
My Debonair has gotten along alright with the original 1965 relays - but it is
not the aerobatic version.
hal
>
> I seem to remember reading somewhere that relays should be
> mounted with the terminals horizontal, so that the solenoid
> armature would not drag in the coil due to gravity.
> Can anybody help on this.
>
> Vertical will probably work...for a while.
>
> D. Anderson
> RV-4 (wings)
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
--> RV-List message posted by: halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne)
Maybe Van just copied the way it is done on his Bonanza - in high & out low.
Here is an interesting URL:
http://www.inforamp.net/~raac/CoolingSystems/CoolingSystemsIndex.HTML
It is about liquid cooling but some of the stuff about airflow thru is
applicable to air cooled too.
hal
> In fact according to theory (as told by far more knowledgeable people than
> me) the cooling system used on our RV's is all wrong and is a concession to
> aesthetics. Air should enter at the bottom of the cowl, flow up through the
> engine baffling, and out at the top or sides of the cowl. Look at the AR-5
> or Rutan's Boomerang and see how the exits were done. Tony B. also has some
> examples in one of his books.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | RELOSVCS!WESTREG!EHENSON(at)cldwell.attmail.com (Henson, Eric) |
Subject: | RE: Tailwheel Transition Story |
--> RV-List message posted by: RELOSVCS!WESTREG!EHENSON(at)cldwell.attmail.com (Henson,
Eric)
>>>>>Reply to Ron Woodard's excellent post on his tailwheel checkout:<<<<<
Great Post Ron, us tailwheelers need more positive propaganda sent our way.
Let me see if I can fill in the story, it took a total of 1hour to figure
out how to taxi the thing, a couple of landings to master the 3 point
landing and roll out, and then 8 or so hours to force yourself into the
unnatural act they refer to as the crosswind wheels landing. "You want me to
do what with this airplane?"
Getting comfortable at forcing in down on the pavement while adding power
was not the easiest thing I've ever done. Know what I mean?
Eric Henson
Dana Point, CA
Skinning Right Wing
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Tailwheel Transition Story |
From: | tcraig-stearman(at)juno.com (John T. Craig-Stearman) |
--> RV-List message posted by: tcraig-stearman(at)juno.com (John T. Craig-Stearman)
>To anyone worrying about whether or not to build a tailwheel version
>of
>whatever RV, let me just offer the following: TAILWHEEL FLYING IS NOT
>THAT
>DIFFICULT. I am no superpilot and I will transition in less than 10
>hours!
Bravo, Rod.
There is absolutely no reason to be afraid of a tailwheel, especially one
as gentle as an RV. Like any other new skill, it simply requires
training to master. The improved awareness of your airplane's flight
parameters makes you a better pilot.
Happy landings,
Tom Craig-Stearman
tcraig-stearman(at)juno.com
RV-4 on the gear
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "mcomeaux" <mcomeaux(at)cmc.net> |
--> RV-List message posted by: "mcomeaux"
Someone was advertising a RV6A or a straight 6
the other night is it still available? Ideleted the
message and unable to find. I believe the wing
and emmpenage was completed and it included
the fuselage. Please send response to.
mcomeaux(at)cmc.net
Thanks--------Mike Comeaux
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "John B. Ciolino" <jbc1(at)ziplink.net> |
Subject: | Lex-aire HVLP spray gun |
--> RV-List message posted by: "John B. Ciolino"
RV Listers,
I have been looking for a HVLP conversion paint gun ( i.e. runs off a
standard compressor) and have some literature on a Lex-aire 2002 gun. I've
searched the archives but can't find much in the way of recommendations on
HVLP guns.
Does anyone have experience with the Lex-aire gun? Any recommendations for
a good HVLP gun?
TIA
John Ciolino
jbc1(at)Ziplink.net
RV-8 Working on Empannage
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Frank van der Hulst <frankv(at)pec.co.nz> |
Subject: | Re: Computers on board? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Frank van der Hulst
msn.com!Micky_G(at)matronics.com wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Michael Gamble"
>
> I may be blowing smoke here, I'm not sure, but wouldn't the
> interference
> from the computer discounting the power supply, and monitor, be
> confined to
> what ever the clock rate of the computer? I mean if the processor is
> running at 133mhz, wouldn't the crystal that sets the rate be emitting
> at
> 133mhz? I guess I really don't understand the problem.
Yes, the crystal runs at 133MHz (or maybe a multiple of that). But it's
not that simple.
Firstly, the 133MHz clock signal is a square wave, which can be thought
of as lots of sine waves added together. These sine waves are multiples
of the 133MHz, and called harmonics. IIRC, a square wave is made up of
the fundamental (f, say 133MHz) + 1/3 f^3 + 1/9 f^9 + ....
Secondly, there's other crystals too (1.8432MHz for the serial port, for
example) and their harmonics. Then there's the beat frequencies
generated by any two frequencies, which occur at lower frequencies than
the original two.
Thirdly, the 133MHz is the maximum rate at which changes happen on the
bus. Depending on instructions, etc, any bus line may have transitions
on it at any lower frequency whose period is a multiple of the 133MHz
period (ie generate frequencies of 66.5MHz, 44MHz, 33.25MHz, 26.5MHz,
etc.) These are of course square waves, so their harmonics apply. They
will also generate beat frequencies with other signals.
Frank (partially-sighted, leading the blind... where is Bob Nuckolls
when you need him???)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Finn Lassen <finnlass(at)ix.netcom.com> |
--> RV-List message posted by: Finn Lassen
I want to turn part of my tank-less wings into fuel tanks.
If anybody has experience - good or bad - with glass (epoxy) to aluminum
bonding, please let me know.
I'd also appreciate any ideas on alternative materials - could I make
bladders out of some kind of rubber or other material? Plastic? I
imagine I could connect bladders through the rib lightening holes - two
rings of ALU bolted or rivited together. I saw fuel bladders at
Sun'n'Fun but unfortunately didn't pay close attention to them.
Finn (strenghtening the wing spars)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Finn Lassen <finnlass(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Subject: | Re: Computers on board? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Finn Lassen
Michael Gamble wrote:
> I may be blowing smoke here, I'm not sure, but wouldn't the interference from
> the computer discounting the power supply, and monitor, be confined to what
> ever the clock rate of the computer? I mean if the processor is running at
> 133mhz, wouldn't the crystal that sets the rate be emitting at 133mhz?
No. The 133 MHz gets "divided" down to for example 33 MHz on the PCI
bus, in addition to a mutitude of other frquencies, depending on
activities on the various busses (memory, I/O, etc.).
Each of the above signals are close to being square wawes (or going from
0 to 5 volts, and 5 volts to 0 volts very quickly, thus also containing
odd harmonics of their basic frequencies (e.g. 3 x 133 Mhz, 5 x 133 MHz,
etc.).
In summary, you have a very broad spectrum of frequencies ranging from
very low, up through multiples of the (highest) clock frequencies (CPU,
video card, etc.). Lowest overall intensity when CPU is idling and
highest with lots of computing and I/O activity.
Really the solution is metal (ALU will do) enclosures, with numerous
small cooling holes and filtered in and outputs (signal and power
lines), using shielded (and grounded) cables. I do not believe that even
an LCD screen is exempt for radiating. But again that can be handled
with a metal enclosure and a fine metal mesh in front on the screen.
None of this is unhandable and is probably best done on a trial and
error basis, with basic shielding as above, then sitting in the plane
with a handheld scanner (108 - 137 MHz) to see if your're picking up and
serious interference (compared with somewhat distant normally audible
stations).
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "les williams" <lesliebwilliams(at)msn.com> |
Subject: | Tailwheel Transition Story |
--> RV-List message posted by: "les williams"
In the couple that I wanted to pretend weren't pop rivets, I used Duraglas
(chopped fiberglass strand filler) sanded down smooth, followed by a glazing
type filler. Otherwise, I let pop rivets be pop rivets, and did nothing!
Les Williams/RV-6AQ/N24LW (res)/RV6-A N299LJ sold 10/95
----------
From: owner-rv-list(at)matronics.com on behalf of Grant E. Young
Sent: Thursday, June 19, 1997 1:33 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Tailwheel Transition Story
--> RV-List message posted by: "Grant E. Young"
Hi,
I would just like to second Ron's tailwheel transition story...I just had
my first "conventional gear" lesson on Monday, and to be honest, I was a
bit nervous about it. However, it was great. Granted, we only did a few
landings and about 15 minutes of taxiing, but it was just no problem at
all. My only impression is that you have to have your feet on the rudder
peddles all the time and really be ready to use them. I have little
doubt that after a few more lessons, I'll definitely be ready for my RV-6
(but, will it be ready for me???). BTW, I only have 230 hours TT.
On another note, just curious what people have used to fill in the pop
rivet holes after priming and before painting.
grant in NM
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)navix.net> |
Subject: | Master & battery relays on Battery Box? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bob Skinner
>I seem to remember reading somewhere that relays should be
>mounted with the terminals horizontal, so that the solenoid
>armature would not drag in the coil due to gravity.
>Can anybody help on this.
>
>Vertical will probably work...for a while.
>
>D. Anderson
>RV-4 (wings)
I think it's the other way around but I could be wrong. I mounted mine
vertically because that's how I felt it worked out best and after the fact,
I think I read that this is the way it should be done. I remember thinking,
"boy, lucked out on that one".
Bob Skinner RV-6 BSkinner(at)navix.net
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | colquitt(at)ns1.onramp.tuscaloosa.al.us |
--> RV-List message posted by: colquitt(at)ns1.onramp.tuscaloosa.al.us
Carroll A. Bird asked me:
> Where do you get these round aluminum disks?
Probably a Home Depot or Lowe's Building Supply or the equivalent in
your area. Just look for a *big* building supply store.
My air egress vent is in an inspection panel 4 inches below the horiz
stab. I can't speak for Spitfires but it works in an RV.
I've flown other canopied airplanes, and if you look at the trailing
edge of the canopy in flight you will notice that it is raised due to
being pressurized by the incoming air not having an exit point other
than leaks and pushing up the canopy.
I first noticed this on the way to Oshkosh in 1980 while flying a
Mustang II in a rain. We kept getting wet - the rainwater would run
down the canopy and tuck under at the back where the canopy had
raised off the fuselage due to pressure inside and lifting force on
the outside - the canopy is shaped like an airfoil, is it not. The
airflow then would "throw" the rain forward and hit us in the back of
the head and neck. Talk about drag - I'd like for an aeronautical
engineer to calculate that!
Joe Colquitt
Flying - well ventilated - RV-3, but a Spitfire it ain't.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | colquitt(at)ns1.onramp.tuscaloosa.al.us |
Subject: | Re: Tailwheel Transition Story |
--> RV-List message posted by: colquitt(at)ns1.onramp.tuscaloosa.al.us
> I found a Citabria GCBC at a nearby airport.
I used to own a Citabria 7KCAB (the aerobatic, 150hp version
Citabria). They're *harder* to handle than an RV.
> I've taken a total of 5 lessons (approx. 6 hours) and my instructor informed
me last night that
> he's going to solo me on Sunday.
>
> To anyone worrying about whether or not to build a tailwheel version of
> whatever RV, let me just offer the following: TAILWHEEL FLYING IS NOT THAT
> DIFFICULT.
Just remember Rod, that the day you get comfortable and complacent,
and the wind is just right, or the brakes are just wrong, or
something, tailwheel airplanes will make you humble. I've owned a
number of them and have flown others, including taking and giving
instructions in them - and yes, while checking myself out in a
Hyperbipe that I once owned I got reminded with a nice no-damage 270
degree turn off the runway. And I've seen better pilots in the grass
- two upside down - one killed.
Tailwheel airplanes just ask for respect - and attention. The RV
series is one of the best behaved of the bunch. Personally, I own a
taildragger and I'm building another one. They're not dangerous -
just pay attention - all of the time, please.
Joe Colquitt
Flying RV-3A
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Craig Nelson <cgn(at)pond.net> |
Subject: | Re: Alternator modifications, Avionics order |
--> RV-List message posted by: Craig Nelson
Tim,
My '85 VW Vanagon camper has a 95 amp alternator. I can't
remember thought if it is internal or external regulated
cgn(at)pond.net
Craig G. Nelson
Eugene, OR
building RV-6 empenage, nearly completed
wing kit in the shop
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle 510-606-1001) |
Subject: | Source For Special Washer... |
--> RV-List message posted by: dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle 510-606-1001)
Does anyone know where I could obtain some #6 black plastic/nylon washers?
I found some nice nylon washers that would work, but there are white and
would be very ugly. Thanks for any tips...
Matt Dralle
RV-4 N442RV (Soon...)
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
510-606-1001 Voice | 510-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: RV-3 wet wings |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a@germany-c.it.earthlink.net>
> I
> imagine I could connect bladders through the rib lightening holes - two
> rings of ALU bolted or rivited together. I saw fuel bladders at
> Sun'n'Fun but unfortunately didn't pay close attention to them.
Here's an idea, perhaps you can use it: There exists an STC for the
Grumman AA1 which uses a long tube (as big around as the existing rib
lightening holes) as an auxiliary fuel tank. I don't know what it's
made of for sure, but I think it's aluminum. Perhaps the Grumman
design could serve as a basis for an RV implementation. If you'd
like more info I'll dig thru my old Grumman info and find a contact.
One thing I didn't like about that fuel tank design: A fuel
imbalance imparts quite a rolling moment to the aircraft. One either
switches tanks frequently or uses the armstrong method to hold wings
level.
Tim
---------------------
Tim Lewis
RV-6AQ #60023
San Antonio TX
timrv6a(at)earthlink.net or
timrv6a(at)iname.com
-----------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | RodWoodard <rodwoodard(at)mcione.com> |
Subject: | Re: RE: Tailwheel Transition Story |
--> RV-List message posted by: RodWoodard
----------
> --> RV-List message posted by:
RELOSVCS!WESTREG!EHENSON(at)cldwell.attmail.com (Henson, Eric)
>
> >>>>>Reply to Ron Woodard's excellent post on his tailwheel
checkout:<<<<<
>
>
> Getting comfortable at forcing in down on the pavement while adding power
> was not the easiest thing I've ever done. Know what I mean?
Yes I _do_ know what you mean. I can grease the thing on every time with a
three point. Out of my last 30 landings, I think 25 of them have been wheel
landings... or at least attempts at wheel landings. I kind of do things by
feel when I fly and I think I've finally got the "feel" of a wheel landing.
I just finished watching a video tape of Wednesday's session and there was
only one landing that I cringed at when I reviewed the tape. I kind of
forced the thing on the ground, got the predictible bounce and balloon and
ended up adding a little power and converting it into a 3-point. It didn't
even look that bad on the video tape!
Take care... and wish me luck! :-)
Rod Woodard
RV-8, #80033
Loveland, Colorado
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Tom Martin <fairlea(at)execulink.com> |
--> RV-List message posted by: Tom Martin
>--> RV-List message posted by: colquitt(at)ns1.onramp.tuscaloosa.al.us
>
>
>My air egress vent is in an inspection panel 4 inches below the horiz
>stab. I can't speak for Spitfires but it works in an RV.
>
>I've flown other canopied airplanes, and if you look at the trailing
>edge of the canopy in flight you will notice that it is raised due to
>being pressurized by the incoming air not having an exit point other
>than leaks and pushing up the canopy.
>
>I first noticed this on the way to Oshkosh in 1980 while flying a
>Mustang II in a rain. We kept getting wet - the rainwater would run
>down the canopy and tuck under at the back where the canopy had
>raised off the fuselage due to pressure inside and lifting force on
>the outside - the canopy is shaped like an airfoil, is it not. The
>airflow then would "throw" the rain forward and hit us in the back of
>the head and neck. Talk about drag - I'd like for an aeronautical
>engineer to calculate that!
>
I too had the problem with the canopy rear skirt raising. I solved that by
putting faring the rear portion of the skirt into the turtle deck. No drafts
in the winter and it looks better too.
Tom martin
RV-4
still looking for other cabin air vent ideas
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | catbird(at)taylortel.com (TTC Carroll A. Bird) |
Subject: | Re: Lex-aire HVLP spray gun |
--> RV-List message posted by: catbird(at)taylortel.com (TTC Carroll A. Bird)
John B. Ciolino wrote:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "John B. Ciolino"
>
> RV Listers,
>
>
>
> Does anyone have experience with the Lex-aire gun? Any recommendations for
> a good HVLP gun?
>
> TIA
>
> John Ciolino
> jbc1(at)Ziplink.net
> RV-8 Working on Empannage
I bought a Lex-Aire about two months ago. I have painted the
cockpit a light gray with a clear coat. It handeled these materials
quite well. It is very easy to use. I had never painted any thing with a
sprayer except the primer on my -4. I had a little problem with the
trigger sticking, and called them about it, they sent me a new one right
away. Works fine now. If you get one you will be surprised at how well
it performs.
Carroll Bird RV-4 on the gear.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Master & battery relays on Battery Box? |
--> RV-List message posted by: John Darby <johnd@our-town.com>
>>I seem to remember reading somewhere that relays should be
>>mounted with the terminals horizontal, so that the solenoid
>>armature would not drag in the coil due to gravity.
>>Can anybody help on this.
D. Anderson;
For what it's worth, I think this can be placed in the file of things to
discuss on a rainy day while sitting around the fire with nothing to do
because the wx is 0-0.
I heard the same type of argument when I was a very young boy, the
talkers were the mechanics who argued as to straight fours and sixes vs.
V-8s when they (V-8s) first came out. That the pistons would too soon wear
out on one side because of gravity (on the V-8s). You can tell the results,
because I'm sure you have noticed, there are almost no successful V or slant
type engines, not even many flat opposed engines.:-)
When you say the terminals horizontal, I assume then the piston inside
the relay is operating in the vertical plane. The argument I've heard in
the past recent years is that the G forces, along with the spring force,
would cause the piston to override the magnetic force and cause the piston
to move down and results-disconnect of the points. So the argument is that
the piston should be DOWN (below the terminals) so that the G forces would
tend to keep the points connected.
I think that this, although very unlikely unless Gs caused by
catastrophic impact, is not to be worried about.
Stop and think about the inside construction of the unit. If in
question, go to your nearest auto parts store (NAPA?) and ask to see the
book that has the info on the relays/solenoids and study that a little. It
has schematics, location of points, spring, etc. A little reasoning helped
me make up my own mind on it. Added to that was my complete tear down of
the first one that failed on me. It was the points that went bad, not drag etc.
John Darby RV6 sold
Stephenville TX
johnd@our-town.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Darrell L. Anderson" <d.l.anderson(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Subject: | Master & battery relays on Battery Box? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Darrell L. Anderson"
With more thought on this, you are probably right. A
horizontally installed armature would be less susceptible
to + or - G shock that would tend to push/pull the contacts
out of their preferred position. Also, they seem to have
no obvious drain or vent that needs to be in any particular
orientation.
Bob Nuckolls' Aeroelectric Connection, section 11 "Switches
Relays and Contactors" says nothing on installation orientation,
but gives lots of info on selection, operational theory, etc.
He may have some personal insight on this.
--> RV-List message posted by: Bob Skinner
>I seem to remember reading somewhere that relays should be
>mounted with the terminals horizontal, so that the solenoid
>armature would not drag in the coil due to gravity.
>Can anybody help on this.
>
>Vertical will probably work...for a while.
>
>D. Anderson
>RV-4 (wings)
I think it's the other way around but I could be wrong. I mounted mine
vertically because that's how I felt it worked out best and after the fact,
I think I read that this is the way it should be done. I remember thinking,
"boy, lucked out on that one".
Bob Skinner RV-6 BSkinner(at)navix.net
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Darrell L. Anderson" <d.l.anderson(at)worldnet.att.net> |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Darrell L. Anderson"
I saw a magazine article somewhere, maybe Kitplanes or Sport Aviation, that
showed sealing of the aft rib bay of, I think, a Midget Mustang? They used
Pro Seal, just like the RV's, to seal up the structure. I would think you
would have to add some stiffeners to the skin to support the added weight
of the fuel, rivet in covers for the lightening holes, add fuel filler, vent,
pickup, drain, and gauge sender, and seal up the access cover. The most
difficult thing on an already constructed wing might be getting the metal
clean for the Pro Seal application.
There is a thinner consistency ProSeal, (A-2 instead of B-2) that is brushable
and also a brushable air-dry top coat called PR-1000 that may be of help
where "sloshing" is impractical. Check with Courtauld's Aerospace, they
make Pro Seal.
D. Anderson
RV-4 (wings...fuel tanks done)
--> RV-List message posted by: Finn Lassen
I want to turn part of my tank-less wings into fuel tanks.
If anybody has experience - good or bad - with glass (epoxy) to aluminum
bonding, please let me know.
I'd also appreciate any ideas on alternative materials - could I make
bladders out of some kind of rubber or other material? Plastic? I
imagine I could connect bladders through the rib lightening holes - two
rings of ALU bolted or rivited together. I saw fuel bladders at
Sun'n'Fun but unfortunately didn't pay close attention to them.
Finn (strenghtening the wing spars)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jim Tennison" <jtennison.cmrl(at)veda.com> |
charset=US-ASCII
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Tennison"
Carefull, aircraft pressure mappings are very sensitive to the aircraft
configuration. The RV-4 and RV-6 have different fuselage pressure
distributions and relying on the RV-6 map to locate your RV-4 vents could
result in poor vent performance.
I recommend looking at an RV-4 pressure distribution during cruise conditions
to locate an acceptable vent outlet.
If there's enough interest from the list, I can help get this information for
you. (I was planning to do it someday anyway).
Jim Tennison
RV-4 Horizontal Stab - Ex Northrop YF-23 Aerodynamicist
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Larry D. Hoatson" <lhoatson(at)e2.empirenet.com> |
Subject: | Re: spar construction] |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry D. Hoatson"
> more than six hours and the results were excellent. Mr. Klee had a great idea
and I thank him for sharing it with me.
When was the original "harbor freight press" posting? Any tips on where
I can find it?
Thanks,
Larry
--
Larry D. Hoatson Yucaipa, CA Redlands (L12) Airport
lhoatson(at)empirenet.com
KC6WYF via packet at: KC6WYF(at)W6JBT.SOCAL.CA.USA.NOAM
Restoring 1950 Cessna 170A N9948A... Looking forward to RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | less_drag(at)juno.com (JAMES E AYERS) |
--> RV-List message posted by: less_drag(at)juno.com (JAMES E AYERS)
ns1.onramp.tuscaloosa.al.us!colquitt(at)matronics.com writes:
(Snip)
>The airflow then would "throw" the rain forward and hit us in the back
of
>the head and neck. Talk about drag - I'd like for an aeronautical
>engineer to calculate that!
>
>Joe Colquitt
>Flying - well ventilated - RV-3, but a Spitfire it ain't.
>
>
Hi All,
Jerry VanGrunsven already determined this empirically, it costs 5 mph on
an RV-3.
I believe it was in a mid or late 1970's RVator.
Jim Ayers
Less_Drag(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | steve(at)barnardaircraft.com (barnardaircraft) |
--> RV-List message posted by: steve(at)barnardaircraft.com (barnardaircraft)
Hi Mike,
The reason Rutan's Boomerang has cooling air outlets on the top of the
cowlings is because he uses Lycoming turbocharged engines which are
designed for updraft cooling, ie. most of the cooling fins are located on
the bottom of the cylinder. Notice he also uses the somewhat standard
location for the inlets even though they are rotated 90 degree's and much
closer to the spinner. Mike Arnold's AR-5 uses water cooling with the
Rotax so he has the convenience of locating them anywhere around the
periphery of the fuselage. He chose the side which is neither increasing
or decreasing in size. If you've seen any air flow diagrams of airplanes
the front end is a very high pressure area for cooling inlets, and not the
bottom of the cowling. It's hard to believe that Lancair IV's, Mooney
Ovations, RV's have the incorrect location of cooling inlets. The
Lycomings we use for our installations are designed for downdraft cooling.
Van installed a lower inlet scoop below the spinner on the prototype and
later changed to the standard location. Wonder why? Ask the man. The
more I experiment with cooling inlets and outlets, some of the standard
rules of thumb for cooling systems is becoming obsolete. One day we may
have a more modern engine designed for airplanes that will let us take
advantage of revised cooling systems. This is an area for great
improvement even today. Note: Radial engines exit cooling air all around
the periphery of the cowling.
>Its my understanding that the ideal place for an outlet is in a low pressure
>turbulent flow point on the airframe. The intent is to allow the low
>pressure to help draw the air out. If placed correctly the exit can be
>smaller ofr the same amount of airflow. Typically the bottom of the fuse is
>a high pressure point.
> In fact according to theory (as told by far more knowledgeable people than
>me) the cooling system used on our RV's is all wrong and is a concession to
>aesthetics. Air should enter at the bottom of the cowl, flow up through the
>engine baffling, and out at the top or sides of the cowl. Look at the AR-5
>or Rutan's Boomerang and see how the exits were done. Tony B. also has some
>examples in one of his books.
>
>Mike Wills
>RV-4 (wings)
>willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil
Respectfully,
Steve Barnard
Barnard Aircraft Components
RV-6A N157ST 1000 hrs flying
steve(at)barnardaircraft.com
http://www.barnardaircraft.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
Subject: | Re: Lex-aire HVLP spray gun |
--> RV-List message posted by: halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne)
Hi all,
At our last EAA Chapter meeting, a Mr. Jim Body gave a sales pitch for
Alumnigrip and gave lotsa lessons on painting. Someone asked for equipment
recommendations. First and without hesitation, he praised Binks as his
favorite. Mainly the Mach 1 HVLP gun which is not a conversion of a standard
gun but an HVLP design. It runs on a compressor of 1.5 or 2 hp or more. I was
surprised he did not mention Sharpe but not surprised he did not mention
Lexaire.
I wrote to Lexaire and asked them why I should buy their gun rather than the
Binks which is the same money. In fact, if you talked sweet to a dealer it
might be less. I asked how I would handle a warranty problem. I asked how I
might suppose they would be there tomorrow, suggesting they might be a "fly by
night" outfit. (What is wrong with flying by night?)
I see that AC Sruce has Binks.
Remove those Sharpie marks before painting as they may react with the paint.
Hal Kempthorne RV-6AQ -- On main gear
halk(at)sybase.com Santa Clara, CA. Debonair N6134V @ SJC
>
> I have been looking for a HVLP conversion paint gun ( i.e. runs off a
> standard compressor) and have some literature on a Lex-aire 2002 gun. I've
> searched the archives but can't find much in the way of recommendations on
> HVLP guns.
>
> Does anyone have experience with the Lex-aire gun? Any recommendations for
> a good HVLP gun?
>
> TIA
>
>
> John Ciolino
> jbc1(at)Ziplink.net
> RV-8 Working on Empannage
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "David Moore" <dmoore8(at)tuelectric.com> |
Subject: | Re: Master & battery relays on Battery Box? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "David Moore"
> >I seem to remember reading somewhere that relays should be
> >mounted with the terminals horizontal, so that the solenoid
> >armature would not drag in the coil due to gravity.
> >Can anybody help on this.
>
> I think it's the other way around but I could be wrong. I mounted mine
> vertically because that's how I felt it worked out best and after the
fact,
> I think I read that this is the way it should be done. I remember
thinking,
> "boy, lucked out on that one".
Horizontal/vertical - you are probably all saying the same thing (ie., what
is you reference point - the casing or the terminal connections?).
Try this - the cap on the housing should be on top. The terminal
connections on a standard master are on the sides, not top and bottom. It
is spring loaded and the solenoid works against the spring. Orientation
may be critical during high G maneuvers.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | RELOSVCS!WESTREG!EHENSON(at)cldwell.attmail.com (Henson, Eric) |
Subject: | RE: Lex-aire HVLP spray gun |
--> RV-List message posted by: RELOSVCS!WESTREG!EHENSON(at)cldwell.attmail.com (Henson,
Eric)
Hi John,
If you can access the archives we had a great discussion on this about 6
months ago. If not I have used both Sharpe and DeVilvis gravity feed HVLP
guns and they work as well as the painters technique will allow them. Prices
run about $230.00 to $350.00. No gun is going to make up for lack of
knowledge about paint aplication. My recomendation is to buy a good quality
gun and then spend the money you saved by not buying a hot shot system on
practice paint. This of course assumes your'e a newbie at the paint game, as
I was a year ago. I now feel confident enough to paint my entire aircraft.
Oh, any respectable dual stage compressor should handle the air volume.
Eric Henson
Dana Point, CA
Wing Skins On
ehenson(at)cldwell.attmail.com
----------
From: John B. Ciolino
Subject: RV-List: Lex-aire HVLP spray gun
Date: Thursday, June 19, 1997 8:40PM
--> RV-List message posted by: "John B. Ciolino"
RV Listers,
I have been looking for a HVLP conversion paint gun ( i.e. runs off a
standard compressor) and have some literature on a Lex-aire 2002 gun. I've
searched the archives but can't find much in the way of recommendations on
HVLP guns.
Does anyone have experience with the Lex-aire gun? Any recommendations for
a good HVLP gun?
TIA
John Ciolino
jbc1(at)Ziplink.net
RV-8 Working on Empannage
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Cockpit Air Exit |
--> RV-List message posted by: LesDrag(at)aol.com
<< Hey Mr. Maurauder,
In all of you "less drag" travels have you run into the cockpit ventilation
exit issue? Thought I'd get your take on it, makes an interesting
discussion.
Thanks in advance,
Eric Henson
Dana Point, CA
>>
Hi Eric and all,
The fuselage vertical skin joints on my RV-3 are all sealed (because the aft
skin is on top of the front skin (to decrease drag by 1/3 per "Drag" by
Hoerner)), so there is no air leakage. The horizontal skin joints are not
sealed.
Cockpit exit air can;
1. Go out the rear of the canopy. I have a side hinge canopy (similar to the
RV-4). I can see the front seal rise off the front cowl by about 1/16" in
flight. I haven't been able to "see" the rear seal.
2. Go through the baggage compartment and exit the tail cone at the existing
clearance holes for the elevator. I've tried to encourage the air to leave
this way by adding holes near the top of the rear baggage compartment
close-out bulkhead. The HS spar in this area should act as a low pressure
generator. However, I defeated this to some extent by installing an elevator
fairing on the elevator root ribs.
Rudder cable fairings can promote a low pressure area for exit air.
However, my RV-3 doesn't have rudder cables, control horns, chains or springs
outside the fuselage. (The rudder pedals should be modified to accomodate
this, and two cable pulleys should to be installed.)
Jim Ayers
LOM M332A engine Maroon Ivoprop VP Prop "Sportcraft Antenna don't show"
RV-3 N47RV Maroon Marauder
LesDrag(at)aol.com
Thousand Oaks, California USA
http://member.aol.com/lesdrag/rv3.htm
http://member.aol.com/lesdrag/Ivoprop.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
--> RV-List message posted by: Glenn & Judi <flyers@anet-chi.com>
Hi,
RE: RV6 instrument panel sub-panel.
How large would a sub panel have to be that would incorporate the carb
heat, throttle and mixture controls in a horizontal configuration?
Thanks in advance,
Glenn Gordon
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Elev Trim Control RV-6 |
--> RV-List message posted by: Glenn & Judi <flyers@anet-chi.com>
RE: Manual elevator trim on the RV-6
Hi,
Where are some alternative mounting locations for the manual elev trim
control?
Thanks in advnace,
Glenn Gordon
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Don McNamara <mcnamara(at)sbt.infi.net> |
--> RV-List message posted by: Don McNamara
Listers--
I've noticed that many of you already have your N-numbers reserved. How
did you go about doing this?
--Don
mcnamara(at)sbt.infi.net
#80113
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Source For Special Washer... |
--> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog(at)aol.com
<< Does anyone know where I could obtain some #6 black plastic/nylon washers?
I found some nice nylon washers that would work, but there are white and
would be very ugly. >>
Matt-
I get black .031 thk ones from Olander in Sunnyvale and have some in the
hangar. I'll be out there this weekend if you want a few.
Call me. 408-946-5381
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | JamesCone(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Canopy , Part Deux |
--> RV-List message posted by: JamesCone(at)aol.com
<< Dear Jim,
I received a reply message to mine, but no words that responded to the
question were enclosed. Could you try again.
Thanks Ron Vandervort
The question was regarding raising the canopy frame to roll-bar allignment
and without the canopy setting on the assembly how does one know the angle
of the plexiglas over the frame and roll-bar?
>>
Ron and Listers,
I wondered what happened to the message I sent to you and posted a copy of to
the list. It must have disappeared into cyperspace. As I said before,
thanks for your comments about my newsletter. To answer you question about
the canopy alignment, after you cut the top of the tube that goes through
the center bar of the frame off, you can lay the Plexiglas on the roll bar
and frame. You can then see that the slider part of the frame needs to be
raised above the roll bar in order to line up with the Plexiglas. Don't
drill the slider frame to the rollers until you figure out how high it needs
to be. You can use short pieces of pipe as spacers to raise the slider frame
into position for drilling. The articles in my newsletter show how to get a
good fit on your canopy by yourself, without any help. You can do all of the
trimming, fitting, and installation of the sides and rear skirts by yourself
using the proceedures that I describe. My canopy fits perfectly and has no
air or water leaks anywhere. I don't have any sealing material anywhere; not
at the roll bar, not on the sides and not at the rear. I don't need any. If
you follow my proceedures, you can get the same results without any help from
anyone. One man canopy installation is a peice of cake if you know how to do
it. Hope this helps. Sorry about loosing the first reply.
Jim Cone, Editor
Van's Air Force, Tri-State Wing Newsletter
422 Savannah Ridge Drive
St. Charles, MO 63303
(314) 928-8703
jamescone(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jerry H. Prado" <jerryprado(at)wa.net> |
Subject: | Re: Computers on board? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jerry H. Prado"
Robert Acker wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Robert Acker
>
> >> are involved in integrating a PC into my RV-8 to be? The
> potential
> >> application is a custom developed GPS/moving map display/flight
> mgmt system
> >> connected to a 6" panel mounted active matrix screen driven from a
> P100
> >> cpu/motherboard (no "essential" functions).
>
> These devices already exist (Silvaire, Avidyne, Archangel, Peavy,
> etc.).
> They have screens optimized for direct sunlight viewing, flight
> management
> software developed & debugged, etc.
>
> If the objective is to have an airplane flying in a reasonable amount
> of
> time, you may want to consider one of these. I imagine rolling your
> own
> "flight PC" would take hundreds, if not thousands, of hours for
> software
> development alone.
>
> Rob Acker / r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com / RV-6Q
I've been toying with moving maps for a long time and have been able to
address most of the noise, cooling and space problems. What is keeping
this from being affordable at this time is the cost of the displays.
While a high-end active matrix display could be used, it will dissapear
in direct sunlight. Some of the units that Rob mentions are backlit with
an inverter and higher intensity lighting. Since there is a minmum 1:1
ratio of drive transistor to pixel, there is a substantial amount of
noise radiated from the front of the panel. Some of these vendors use a
metalized screen as a combination touch sensor and "shield". If I had
the panel depth, power and money, I would use a real CRT in the panel
and mount the CPU and storage device(s) remotely.
The recent thread concerning a transient triggering an aborted reset in
the RMI microMonitor made me think about some active power
conditioning. Since the electronics in a PC operate on 5 volts, you
would have to regulate it down. In the case of a Pentium, it gets
dropped again to 3 volts. This much regulation would in effect, act as a
conditioner.
As far as software goes, you can buy several off the shelf packages that
handle the moving map and flight management/planning. I can't imagine
developing the software to handle anything other than these. Flightstar
by MentorPlus is pretty decent but still locks up or crashes Windows
occasionally. At least one of the vendors Rob mentions uses this product
in a modified form.
Jerry Prado
6A
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "les williams" <lesliebwilliams(at)msn.com> |
Subject: | RMI microEncoder & voltage transients |
--> RV-List message posted by: "les williams"
As a follow-up to my posting, I received only one direct response and there
was one subsequent posting to the list. Both were positive. Must not be many
users out there or mum's the word. I'm waiting for the update from RMI before
I proceed one way or the other. Thanks.
Les
----------
From: owner-rv-list(at)matronics.com on behalf of les williams
Sent: Wednesday, June 11, 1997 7:08 PM
Subject: RV-List: RMI microEncoder & voltage transients
--> RV-List message posted by: "les williams"
WOW! This is the real POWER OF THE LIST in action. I just last week received
my microEncoder kit, and after reading Bill's comments, I really questioned
whether or not I should keep it or return it. I certainly don't want
an electronic gismo that might go blip out in the middle of nowhere when I
am using it for a primary flight instrument! It isn't like you can pull it
and run
to the nearest aviation supply store and pick up a replacement!
I'm glad that Mr. Mowrer responded so quickly and offered up a "fix" for
their product. But I wonder how long it would have been, and under what other
circumstances this reaction would have been taken, if it were not for the
"list"?
I like the features of the microEncoder and hope that the experiences of Van's
as related by Bill, is an isolated case. I would still like to use it, I
think! Does anybody have any other comments, good or bad about it?
Thanks,
Les Williams/RV-6AQ/N24LW (res)/finish kit/RV-6A N299LJ sold 10/95
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | David Kerzie <dckerzie(at)qnet.com> |
Subject: | Installation - Constant Speed Spinner |
--> RV-List message posted by: David Kerzie
I've come across a couple of stumbling blocks while trying to install =
the spinner to my constant speed prop (HC-C2YK-1BF/F7666A-4). =20
1. When placing the S-602B rear doubler ring over the four mounting =
bolts, I found that the doubler strikes the prop hub before coming to =
rest on the 1/4" spacers. Is it that I need longer spacers? The =
constant speed spinner instructions mention a 1/4" spacer , but they =
also mention a S-604 from Van's. Is the S-604 spacer longer?
2. Am I supposed to remove the inner 7.2" of S-601-1 so that it will =
clear the prop mount and attach to S-602? The constant speed spinner =
instructions mention in small print on the diagram that the center =
portion is to be removed, but I just wanted to make sure that that was =
standard practice. I don't want to hack away too much.
Thanks for your help,
Dave Kerzie
RV-6 - engine mounted yesterday (thanks for the help, Jack!)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV6 Panel mod. |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer
Glenn & Judi wrote:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Glenn & Judi <flyers@anet-chi.com>
>
> Hi,
>
> RE: RV6 instrument panel sub-panel.
>
> How large would a sub panel have to be that would incorporate the carb
> heat, throttle and mixture controls in a horizontal configuration?
>
> Thanks in advance,
> Glenn Gordon
Glen
If you go to Matt's homepage you can find some pictures of
examples of panels with the engines controls in the horizontal
configuration. The picture of the panel of my RV-6 shows that
I made my panel about 1.5" lower at the bottom and put the engine
controls in the horizontal configuration. There is some good
pictures of panels that show some other good ways of doing what you
want. I never did like the vertical setup so removed it, and it
makes much more leg room to move around and stretch on those long
I've included a link to the RV-List homepage and to the picture
of my panel.
<http://www.matronics.com/rv-list/index.htm>
<http://www.matronics.com/ftp/Scans/RV/896jerry.jpg>
--
Jerry Springer RV-6 N906GS First flight July 14, 1989 :-) Hillsboro, OR
jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stephen J. Soule"
With those long tubular fuel tanks, beware of fuel surging from
wingtip to fuselage every time you bank. If you are going to put a
long tube in the wing for gasoline, you might want to install some
baffles inside the tube. A short tube may not pose the same problem.
Steve
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stephen J. Soule"
Does RMI have a web page? What's the address?
Steve
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | catbird(at)taylortel.com (TTC Carroll A. Bird) |
--> RV-List message posted by: catbird(at)taylortel.com (TTC Carroll A. Bird)
Don McNamara wrote:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Don McNamara
>
> Listers--
>
> I've noticed that many of you already have your N-numbers reserved. How
> did you go about doing this?
>
> --Don
> mcnamara(at)sbt.infi.net
> #80113Call the FAA in Ok City. They will be happy to help you.
Carroll
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Denny Harjehausen <retflygtiger(at)proaxis.com> |
--> RV-List message posted by: Denny Harjehausen
>--> RV-List message posted by: Don McNamara
>
>Listers--
>
>I've noticed that many of you already have your N-numbers reserved. How
>did you go about doing this?
Don,
Ijust went through that, and with the kind help of the net I finally
got it right and my second choice. Which is good enough.
You can check the numbers availablity thru sportflyer.com or
www.avweb.com in their data pages. Write or phone FAA (405)954-3116 to get
the paper work. You can check with the FAA if the selected numbers are
available from your research. Msil it in and sha-bang you got it.
Have Great Day!
Denny
RV-6 (R)N641DH
Fuselage top side
Lebanon, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: How much Time? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Cafgef(at)aol.com
<< "What's your projected completion date?" >>
My projected completion date is June of 1996 and I'm sticking to that no
matter what.
Gene, 4 years into a 2 1/2 year project, still counting and still having
fun.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: RMI microEncoder & voltage transients |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a@sweden-c.it.earthlink.net>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "les williams"
>
> As a follow-up to my posting, I received only one direct response and there
> was one subsequent posting to the list. Both were positive. Must not be many
> users out there or mum's the word. I'm waiting for the update from RMI before
> I proceed one way or the other. Thanks.
>
> Les
Les,
I elected to go with the EIS system from Grand Rapids Technology. My
reasons:
- EIS displays CHT, EGT, and OAT in Farenheit, umonitor is Celsius
only
- EIS displays two EGT and two CHT simultaneously (switchable to
the other two cylinders, switch is free), with an upgrade to 4 CHT
and 4 EGT simultaneously in the works. Rocky Mountain said they have
no plans to upgrade their unit from 1 CHT and 1EGT at a time
(switchable, switch costs extra and doesn't come with knob)
- EIS will apply the full purchase price of the current system
toward the price of the upgraded system, including probes. They put
it in writing.
- EIS may be returned for a full refund anytime within the
first year (even after it's installed and running), vs 30 day
examination period on umonitor
- EIS was less expensive, even after I added the price of a couple of
separate gauges to cover the functions it doesn't monitor in the
configuration I bought.
- Grand Rapids answered my questions thoroughly and accurately the
first time, expressing enthusiasm for my inputs for the next product
upgrade cycle. Rocky Mountain answered my questions with "I think"
and "I'm pretty sure" (the answers turned out to be wrong), and
expressed no interest in upgrading to monitor all cylinders
simultaneously.
GRT has some advantages, however:
- more monitored functions
- auxiliary inputs for alarms
- a built in clock and timer. That built in clock/timer really
irritated me, because it tells time in thenths of a minute rather
than seconds... not good enough to meet FAR 91.205 requirements for
IFR.
It's a judgement call. Many people pick Rocky Mountain and report
being very satisfied. I recommend investigating both units. Grand
Rapids Technology is at 616-531-4893.
Tim Lewis
On 21 Jun 97 at 1:35, les williams wrote:
>
> ----------
> From: owner-rv-list(at)matronics.com on behalf of les williams
> Sent: Wednesday, June 11, 1997 7:08 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: RMI microEncoder & voltage transients
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "les williams"
>
> WOW! This is the real POWER OF THE LIST in action. I just last week received
>
> my microEncoder kit, and after reading Bill's comments, I really questioned
> whether or not I should keep it or return it. I certainly don't want
> an electronic gismo that might go blip out in the middle of nowhere when I
> am using it for a primary flight instrument! It isn't like you can pull it
> and run
> to the nearest aviation supply store and pick up a replacement!
>
> I'm glad that Mr. Mowrer responded so quickly and offered up a "fix" for
> their product. But I wonder how long it would have been, and under what other
>
> circumstances this reaction would have been taken, if it were not for the
> "list"?
>
> I like the features of the microEncoder and hope that the experiences of Van's
>
> as related by Bill, is an isolated case. I would still like to use it, I
> think! Does anybody have any other comments, good or bad about it?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Les Williams/RV-6AQ/N24LW (res)/finish kit/RV-6A N299LJ sold 10/95
>
>
>
---------------------
Tim Lewis
RV-6AQ #60023
San Antonio TX
timrv6a(at)earthlink.net or
timrv6a(at)iname.com
-----------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "les williams" <lesliebwilliams(at)msn.com> |
--> RV-List message posted by: "les williams"
http://rkymtn.com
Les Williams/RV6-AQ/N24LW (res)/canopy stuff
----------
From: owner-rv-list(at)matronics.com on behalf of Stephen J. Soule
Sent: Saturday, June 21, 1997 1:41 AM
Subject: RV-List: RE: RMI
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stephen J. Soule"
Does RMI have a web page? What's the address?
Steve
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | catbird(at)taylortel.com (TTC Carroll A. Bird) |
--> RV-List message posted by: catbird(at)taylortel.com (TTC Carroll A. Bird)
Stephen J. Soule wrote:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Stephen J. Soule"
>
> Does RMI have a web page? What's the address?
>
> Stevewww.rkymtn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bumflyer(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Elev Trim Control RV-6 |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bumflyer(at)aol.com
I saw one at OSH in 93 which was mounted on the seat floor and about even
with the seat back. It was a straight shot to the tail with no loop.
I wound up using electric trim which I really like, and didn't pursue it
further but that was the one that appealed to me the most.
Probably not do able if you have electric flaps.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Denny Harjehausen <retflygtiger(at)proaxis.com> |
--> RV-List message posted by: Denny Harjehausen
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Stephen J. Soule"
>
>Does RMI have a web page? What's the address?
Steve
It is rkymtn.com/rm.htm according to my address book.
Have Great Day!
Denny
RV-6 (R)N641DH
Fuselage top side
Lebanon, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: RV6 Panel mod. |
--> RV-List message posted by: RV6AIR(at)aol.com
Glenn:
M & H Machinery & Welding Tel:512-930-9059 makes a nice "Z"
chanel for this purpose. $10.00. They also make an instrument
sub panel machined on CNC. Both very nice and well worth the
money.
Bob Lovering
RV-6 N7LA
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Al Mojzisik <prober(at)iwaynet.net> |
ge.pfclaw.com>
--> RV-List message posted by: Al Mojzisik
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Stephen J. Soule"
>
>With those long tubular fuel tanks, beware of fuel surging from
>wingtip to fuselage every time you bank. If you are going to put a
>long tube in the wing for gasoline, you might want to install some
>baffles inside the tube. A short tube may not pose the same problem.
>
>Steve
>
It's funny you should mention this. I learned to fly at Cuyahoga County
Airport east of Cleveland and Jim Bede was working out of that airport. I
remember when I saw the local EAA chapter (back in the 60's) building a
BD-4 with it's long tubular wing spar that had the fiberglass airfoils
glassed to them and it was also the fuel tank. I remember the fuel tank
baffels that were installed by slipping them in from the outboard end of
the spar before it was capped. This was my first awareness of fuel tank
baffels and what their purpose was. My point is that in a tubular fuel cell
the baffels were very easy to manufacture and install. Al.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "jacquelyn eastburn" <jimnjax(at)worldnet.att.net> |
--> RV-List message posted by: "jacquelyn eastburn"
the only major drawback to the lex-aire gun is it's pneumatic trigger. you
cannot feather the trigger. it's either on or off.. my choice, binks mach 1
jim e.
RV-8 #80079
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | mikel(at)dimensional.com |
Subject: | Tailwheel Transition Story |
--> RV-List message posted by: mikel(at)dimensional.com
>On another note, just curious what people have used to fill in the pop
>rivet holes after priming and before painting.
Grant: Air works really well: I suggest not filling them with anything as it
takes a LOT of time to fill all those little holes and a LOT of time to sand
the filling and they will STILL look like pop rivets, which is, after all,
what they are. And that's OK.
Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | mikel(at)dimensional.com |
Subject: | Master & battery relays on Battery Box? |
--> RV-List message posted by: mikel(at)dimensional.com
>I mounted mine vertically because that's how I felt it worked out best and
>after the fact, I think I read that this is the way it should be done. I
>remember thinking, "boy, lucked out on that one".
>
>
Mount them vertically.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | RV6junkie(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Vacuum fittings and highway robbery |
--> RV-List message posted by: RV6junkie(at)aol.com
<< I'm sure this arrangement will work, but consider that your gyros will
remain
healthier if not starved for air flow. The Airborne fittings are designed
to
facilitate maximum flow in the system. I believe that they have an ID
slightly greater than that of 3/8" dia aluminum tubing (>.205"). 3/8" barb
fittings are of somewhat smaller ID. A buddy of mine is a Gyro tech and
recommends the full flow fittings highly >>
I'm sure he does!
My gyros operate at normal vacuum. Remember the the reulator is adjustable.
Additionally, you can polish in inside of the AN fittings (I didn't). What
is worse...using AN fitting with a clean filter or Airborne fittings with a
dirty filter? My point is that the vacuum environment is hostile to begin
with (how many of us are doing acro with our gyros?) so I would not worry
about a few thousands of an inch.
Gary Corde
RV-6 N211GC
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | JVanLaak(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: HVLP spray gun |
--> RV-List message posted by: JVanLaak(at)aol.com
Has anyone here used a lower cost HVLP system built by Campbell Hausfeld? It
typically sell for about $200 at builder supply stores and so on. Years ago
I owned a Crois system (CX-9 or 10) and it was very nice but more than I
really need for my own use. A smaller and less expensive unit for general
home use would be easy to justify. $5-700 is much harder.
If the lower cost unit can produce decent results I would consider it. I
definitely prefer HVLP to painting with a small standard compressor, although
I have painted 3 planes with a 1 hp Sears unit and gotten pretty darn good
results.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Installation - Constant Speed Spinner |
--> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog(at)aol.com
<< 1. When placing the S-602B rear doubler ring over the four mounting bolts,
I found that the doubler strikes the prop hub before coming to rest on the
1/4" spacers. Is it that I need longer spacers? The constant speed spinner
instructions mention a 1/4" spacer , but they also mention a S-604 from
Van's. Is the S-604 spacer longer?>>
Dave-
You need spacers that are long enough so that, when the blades are turned to
their most coarse pitch, the blades do not touch the rear spinner bulkhead.
I added one aluminum washer AN960-XXPD (I forget which size they are, 3/8"?)
to each spacer. They are available from ACS.
<< 2. Am I supposed to remove the inner 7.2" of S-601-1 so that it will
clear the prop mount and attach to S-602? The constant speed spinner
instructions mention in small print on the diagram that the center portion is
to be removed, but I just wanted to make sure that that was standard
practice. I don't want to hack away too much. >>
Yes, you must cut it away to match the ID of the stiffener ring.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Dave Barnhart <barnhart(at)A.crl.com> |
Subject: | Re:Wheel Landings |
--> RV-List message posted by: Dave Barnhart
During my early wheel landings, I used the 'force it on' technique, but I
got tired of being hit over the head with a rolled-up newspaper by my
instructor in the back seat.
What I strive for now is to have a zero descent rate when I touch down.
Then I apply just enough forward stick to reduce the angle of attack a bit.
Granted, this technique uses a lot of runway, and it is not applicable to
crosswinds, but it makes for nice smooth wheel landings.
Best Regards,
Dave Barnhart
rv-6 sn 23744 N601DB
installing electrical and avionics
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | RELOSVCS!WESTREG!EHENSON(at)cldwell.attmail.com (Henson, Eric) |
Subject: | Re: HVLP spray gun |
--> RV-List message posted by: RELOSVCS!WESTREG!EHENSON(at)cldwell.attmail.com (Henson,
Eric)
I have had great results with one of the lower of the line Sharpe HVLP guns.
I have seen them in discount papers at the local auto paint stores for
around $220.00. Having nearly destroyed my Sharpe after dropping a tool box
on it, I can say they are pretty tough and easily repaired. Sharpe UPS'd the
parts out to me next day.
Hope it helps,
Eric Henson
>>>>Has anyone here used a lower cost HVLP system built by Campbell
Hausfeld? It
typically sell for about $200 at builder supply stores and so on. <<
>>>If the lower cost unit can produce decent results I would consider it. <<
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Mark & Candy LaBoyteaux <tailspin(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Subject: | Bendix FI Installation Questions |
--> RV-List message posted by: Mark & Candy LaBoyteaux
I have a few questions for those of you who are using Bendix RSA5AD1
fuel injection units on your RV's. I have a IO-320B1A engine that I've
modified to a straight riser oil sump in order to mount the metering
unit on the bottom of the sump. I've purchased the filtered air box from
Van's that's supposed to be for 0-360 and IO-320 engines.
1. What orientation did you use? I've got mine installed with the
throttle control located on the left side and the mixture control on the
right side.
2. The fuel inlet is located just above the mixture control arm. Thus
the arm has to be installed pointing down. It extends below the flange
that the filtered air box bolts to and interferes with it. Were any of
you able to install the filtered air box from Van's on your injection
units?
3. With the mixture control arm mounted pointing down, pulling it aft
rotates the mixture control to full rich, so I can't run the control
cable straight from the instrument panel. I'll either have to rig up a
reversing bellcrank under the forward structure, or route the mixture
cable up the left side and around the front of the metering unit where
the cable is pointing aft and connect it to the mixture control arm. It
would be so simple to just mount the control arm pointing up, but the
fuel inlet is located right in the way.
I'm planning on calling Don at Airflow Performance on Monday to talk to
him about possible solutions, but I thought maybe someone on the list
might be able to provide me with some hints or tips to think about.
Mark LaBoyteaux
RV-6A N106RV
tailspin(at)ix.netcom.com
engine mounted, now what?
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Thomas Velvick <tvelvick(at)caljet.com> |
Subject: | storage life of vari-prime |
--> RV-List message posted by: Thomas Velvick
Hi everyone
After I had finished some priming wih Dupont Variprime, I usually have some
left over. I save it in a glass jar with lid and have used it for some
touchups with q-tips. Does anyone know if you can still use it for
starndard painting or do you have to paint within a certain amount of time
after mixing the primer and the converter together.
Thanks
Tom Velvick
tvelvick(at)caljet.com
RV-6a rudder
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | JamesCone(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: RV6 Panel mod. |
--> RV-List message posted by: JamesCone(at)aol.com
My subpanel is 1 7/8" tall. I made it so that PB switch/CB's would fit in
the channel. The throttle and other engine controls fit well in this space.
Jim Cone
jamescone(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
--> RV-List message posted by: Craig Hiers <CRAIG-RV-4.@worldnet.att.net>
Tom Martin wrote:
>
> I too had the problem with the canopy rear skirt raising. I solved that by
> putting faring the rear portion of the skirt into the turtle deck. No drafts
> in the winter and it looks better too.
>
> Tom martin
> RV-4
>
Tom
Could you be more specific about what you mean by faring the rear
portion of the skirt into the turtle deck.
If this is going to help keep it from leaking might as well do it
now and get it over with.
Craig Hiers
RV-4 N143CH
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)navix.net> |
Subject: | Sealing pop rivets |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bob Skinner
>Grant: Air works really well: I suggest not filling them with anything as it
>takes a LOT of time to fill all those little holes and a LOT of time to sand
>the filling and they will STILL look like pop rivets, which is, after all,
>what they are. And that's OK.
>
>Michael
Of course, with a little moisture and a steel mandrel, there could be a
little rust, right?
Bob Skinner RV-6 BSkinner(at)navix.net
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)navix.net> |
Subject: | Re: storage life of vari-prime |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bob Skinner
>After I had finished some priming wih Dupont Variprime, I usually have some
>left over. I save it in a glass jar with lid and have used it for some
>touchups with q-tips. Does anyone know if you can still use it for
>starndard painting or do you have to paint within a certain amount of time
>after mixing the primer and the converter together.
>Tom Velvick
Tom,
If I remember correctly, Variprime has a pot life after being mixed of 4
days. Been awhile since I've used it, though.
Bob Skinner RV-6 BSkinner(at)navix.net
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | sdrivers(at)juno.com (Stuart S Driver) |
--> RV-List message posted by: sdrivers(at)juno.com (Stuart S Driver)
Jim I would be very interested in such a project, here in Florida we need
all the air we can get in the cockpit.
TIA
SSD RV4 Builder
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)netins.net> |
Subject: | Re:Wheel Landings |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Rozendaal"
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Dave Barnhart
>
> What I strive for now is to have a zero descent rate when I touch down.
> Then I apply just enough forward stick to reduce the angle of attack a
bit.
>
> Granted, this technique uses a lot of runway, and it is not applicable to
> crosswinds, but it makes for nice smooth wheel landings.
I dare to differ with you, The wheel landing you describe is in fact the
correct one and can be performed in fairly short distances with practice,
and as for the cross winds, It was the only method the DC-3 and Beech 18
drivers had.
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal RV-4 N240 a flyer not a builder and a retired frieght
dog (BE-18, DC-3)
dougr(at)netins.net
www.petroblend.com/dougr
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Scott A. Jordan" <71341.3505(at)CompuServe.COM> |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Scott A. Jordan" <71341.3505(at)CompuServe.COM>
Don,
Get AC -20-27D, it explains the whole certification process.
Basically, write a letter to
FAA Aeronautical Center
FAA Aircraft Registry
P.O. Box 25504
Oklahoma City, OK 73125
State the type aircraft you are building to include make, model and Serial
Number ( remember, you are the manufacturer so the number is probably 1).
Include the statement:
This aircraft has not been previously registered anywhere. (FAR section 47.15)
This is a special registration and cost $10 per year to reserve it. Include a
check.
List several choices, despite the research others have suggested, availability
changes daily. If you have found your first choice is not avalable, include it
anyway, it may be by the time the FAA gets the letter. If you have a friend at
a FSDO enlist thier help. They can sit down at a computer and see the latest
availablity.
Good Luck
Scott A. Jordan
RV-8
80331
N733JJ
Horizontal stab done, Vertical goes on the jig tomorrow.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | David Kerzie <dckerzie(at)qnet.com> |
--> RV-List message posted by: David Kerzie
Does anybody have any bright ideas on how to secure an Aircraft Spruce =
supplied governor cable (V970) to a Van's supplied VA-153 governor =
control bracket? Van's picture shows using a jam nut ... my cable has =
no provisions for one.=20
Thanks for any ideas,
Dave Kerzie=20
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: In strument Panel Tilt and Attitude Gyros |
<33A7BA8B.75D1(at)ix.netcom.com>
From: | wstucklen1(at)juno.com (Frederic w Stucklen) |
--> RV-List message posted by: wstucklen1(at)juno.com (Frederic w Stucklen)
Jack,
The unit that I had that failed was not an R.C.Allen unit. It was a
IFR unit purchased from Van's. Initial units that Van sold did not
have the tilt, and were later found to fail because of the lack of
built in tilt. Possible the RCAllen units are more capable of
dealing with this problem, but, according to the IFR people, their's
is not.
In any case, I do not recommend and IFR unit as I have had
more trouble with it than it's worth. The next unit will be an RCALLEN...
Fred Stucklen RV-6A N925RV
wstucklen1(at)juno.com
writes:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "John B. Abell"
>
>Many thanks to Bill Benedict for pointing out the convergence between
>the fuselage top skin and the longeron.
>
>Fred Stucklen asks an interesting question to which I don't know the
>answer simply because I don't know the relationship between the
>waterline of the aircraft and its position in "cruise." Problem number
>one is to define what "cruise" really means. The best I can do as a
>builder without that information is to install the gyro corrected for
>the angle between the instrument panel and the waterline. (I believe
>the waterline parallels the longeron defining the canopy rail.) Even if
>I knew the position of the waterline in "cruise," I might not specify
>the gyro correction differently.
>
>A remaining question, of course, is whether Fred's first gyro failed
>because it was not corrected for tilt; I doubt it. I talked with an
>engineer at R. C. Allen this morning who alleges that tilt correction
>has the sole purpose of centering the artificial horizon on the
>miniature "airplane" in the gyro case and has nothing to do with
>reliability. He also claims that he rarely receives a failed vacuum
>gyro (22 series, the kind now being sold) but sometimes receives
>electric gyros for repair. He says the vacuum gyros he's getting back
>now are 21 series gyros made back around 1968 and they're being sent
>back for overhaul, not repair, an impressive observation. BTW, he also
>said that they can correct for up to 17 degrees of tilt. Apparently,
>helicopters often have panels with very substantial tilt.
>
>In summary, I'm taking Bill's advice and correcting yesterday's
>mistake
>with the purchase of a gyro with eight degrees of tilt correction.
>Sorry for the misleading information, but I hope someone besides me
>benefitted from these postings and Bill's input.
>
>Jack Abell
>RV-6A N333JA (Reserved)
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Alternator modifications, Avionics order |
From: | wstucklen1(at)juno.com (Frederic w Stucklen) |
--> RV-List message posted by: wstucklen1(at)juno.com (Frederic w Stucklen)
Tim,
B & C Specialties has a 60 Amp alternator. You coould also save
yourself a LOT of money by going down to your local alternator
service shop. Tell them you want a Nippon 60 or 70 Amp alternator
but with the regulator disabled and rewired as a "B" circuit. Then you
can use an off the shelp (appropriately rated) regulator (that has
over voltage protection). You'll have to come up with your own
mounting bracket and belt....
Fred Stucklen RV-6A N925RV
wstucklen1(at)juno.com
writes:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Tim Lewis"
><timrv6a@germany-c.it.earthlink.net>
>
>Listers,
>
>I ordered most of my panel today. My wallet is unconscious. It may
>have stopped breathing. Call 911! Thanks to all who shared ideas on
>gyros for tilted panels, gyro hookups, GPS suggestions, etc. I
>appreciate it.
>
>Alternator: I need a big alternator (60 A) to run my night/IFR
>electrical load. I have the mounting kit from Van's, which suggests
>a Mazda 323 alternator (65 amps). That's fine, except it has an
>internal regulator. Does anybody have any experience to share on
>either disabling internal regulators or finding automotive
>alternators without internal regualtors?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Tim
>---------------------
>Tim Lewis
>RV-6AQ #60023
>San Antonio TX
>timrv6a(at)earthlink.net or
>timrv6a(at)iname.com
>-----------------------
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com> |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer
Scott A. Jordan wrote:
>
> State the type aircraft you are building to include make, model and Serial
> Number ( remember, you are the manufacturer so the number is probably 1).
>
>
> Scott A. Jordan
> RV-8
> 80331
> N733JJ
> Horizontal stab done, Vertical goes on the jig tomorrow.
I guess you could use any serial number you wanted to but
it is usually the same number that Van's assigns to your
set of plans. For example mine is 20241.
--
Jerry Springer RV-6 N906GS First flight July 14, 1989 :-) Hillsboro, OR
jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bill Benedict <billb(at)europa.com> |
Subject: | Re: Installation - Constant Speed Spinner |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bill Benedict
Dave, I know you received other mail on this subject and it is correct,
but I would like to add some comments. As was pointed out, the critical
issue is to be sure the blade does not hit the bulkhead (S-601-1) when it is
in the max pitch position. You can force the blades to rotate to the stop
by hand to check for clearance. Sometimes it takes two people with most of
their might to rotate the blades.
We had a number of F-601's that dished when they were turned. This happens
periodically. Lay a straight edge over the web and if it is not flat, just
press it flat.
>I've come across a couple of stumbling blocks while trying to install the
spinner to my constant speed prop (HC-C2YK-1BF/F7666A-4).
>
>1. When placing the S-602B rear doubler ring over the four mounting bolts,
I found that the doubler strikes the prop hub before coming to rest on the
1/4" spacers. Is it that I need longer spacers? The constant speed spinner
instructions mention a 1/4" spacer , but they also mention a S-604 from
Van's. Is the S-604 spacer longer?
Two things. Add a washer as mentioned by another builder, or relieve the
web where it interferes with the hub if the bolts are not long enough for
the washers. The 1/4 spacers are the S-604's. If the blade still strikes
the S-602/S-601-1, why not put the doubler on the front of S-601-1,
thereby moving S-601-1 aft by the thickness of the doubler. This should
keep the blades from hitting the bulkhead (S-601-1).
>2. Am I supposed to remove the inner 7.2" of S-601-1 so that it will clear
the prop mount and attach to S-602? The constant speed spinner instructions
mention in small print on the diagram that the center portion is to be
removed, but I just wanted to make sure that that was standard practice. I
don't want to hack away too much.
You betch, just whack away.
>Thanks for your help,
>Dave Kerzie
>RV-6 - engine mounted yesterday (thanks for the help, Jack!)
>
>
>
Bill
RV-4-180 soon. N894RV with over 400 hours behind a O-320, Over 1000 RV
flying hours.
These opinions are mine and do not necessarily represent the opinions or
position of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bill Benedict <billb(at)europa.com> |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bill Benedict
RV-List, I took an extra altimeter with me in my RV-4 several years ago
that was just vented to the cockpit. When my speed was indicating about
160, the altimeter vented in the cockpit was indicating 300 feet higher
than the aircraft system altimeter. Slow the -4 down to 80 mph, and the
altitude difference was less than 100 feet. Take the same altimeter in my
truck, and on a level highway, I can change the indicated altitude several
hundred feet just by rolling the windows up or down. So, in responding to
the statement below:
>I've flown other canopied airplanes, and if you look at the trailing
>edge of the canopy in flight you will notice that it is raised due to
>being pressurized by the incoming air not having an exit point other
>than leaks and pushing up the canopy.
The canopy is raised because it has lift, not because of the positive
pressure inside. The altimeter experiment proved to me that the cockpit of
the -4 is at a slight vacuum and the amount of vacuum is proportional to
airspeed.
>I first noticed this on the way to Oshkosh in 1980 while flying a
>Mustang II in a rain. We kept getting wet - the rainwater would run
>down the canopy and tuck under at the back where the canopy had
>raised off the fuselage due to pressure inside and lifting force on
>the outside - the canopy is shaped like an airfoil, is it not. The
>airflow then would "throw" the rain forward and hit us in the back of
>the head and neck. Talk about drag - I'd like for an aeronautical
>engineer to calculate that!
The rain coming in at the back is another sign that the canopy is not
pressurized. If it was, the water would not enter. However, with a
slight vacuum, it would tend to suck the water in at this point. The -4,
sliding canopied 6 and 6A, and the RV-8 all have this characteristic. In
the first -8, it felt like a hurricane blowing on your neck in the cooler
latitudes and altitudes. Most of the air is coming in around the track that
supports the canopy track on the -6/6A and -8. Bill
>
>Joe Colquitt
>Flying - well ventilated - RV-3, but a Spitfire it ain't.
>
>
>
Bill
RV-4-180 soon. N894RV with over 400 hours behind a O-320, Over 1000 RV
flying hours.
These opinions are mine and do not necessarily represent the opinions or
position of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "John B. Abell" <jbabell(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Subject: | Re: In strument Panel Tilt and Attitude Gyros |
<33A7BA8B.75D1(at)ix.netcom.com> <19970621.222716.10175.1.wstucklen1(at)juno.com>
--> RV-List message posted by: "John B. Abell"
Fred,
Thanks for the additional information on your failed attitude gyro.
Your comments are interesting. Since my original posting on the subject
of instrument panel tilt and gyros, I found out that turn coordinators
apparently have the same problem, i.e., the need for tilt correction.
I'm installing an S-Tec System 50 autopilot in my -6A and it turns out
that S-Tec supplies turn coordinators with no tilt correction or with 8
degrees correction. When I bought my system, it was supplied with a
turn coordinator with no tilt correction. I guess I'm going to have to
try to swap it for one with the correction or have mine modified.
I'm going to try to find out more about the tilt issue at Oshkosh. I'd
like to understand it better than I do. I tentatively plan to fly up to
visit Avionics West in Santa Maria, Calif. on Tuesday. I'll see what I
can find out there from Tom Rogers.
Better luck with your future R. C. Allen or whatever.
Jack Abell
RV-6A N333JA (Reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | vern(at)ldd.net (VERN LEMASTERS) |
Subject: | Re: storage life of vari-prime |
--> RV-List message posted by: vern(at)ldd.net (VERN LEMASTERS)
----------
> From: Thomas Velvick <caljet.com!tvelvick(at)matronics.com>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: storage life of vari-prime
> Date: Saturday, June 21, 1997 4:22 PM
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Thomas Velvick
>
Vari-prime has a pot life of 3-5 days depending on the temperature. It is
still okay to use as primer after that but it is no longer self-etching, or
at least that is what my dupont rep tells me.
Vern Lemasters
Lemasters Electronics
1008 N. Radcliffe
Marion, IL 62959
618-993-8689
fax 618-997-5726
e-mail vern(at)ldd.net
> Hi everyone
>
> After I had finished some priming wih Dupont Variprime, I usually have
some
> left over. I save it in a glass jar with lid and have used it for some
> touchups with q-tips. Does anyone know if you can still use it for
> starndard painting or do you have to paint within a certain amount of
time
> after mixing the primer and the converter together.
>
> Thanks
> Tom Velvick
> tvelvick(at)caljet.com
> RV-6a rudder
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | rust47rg(at)one.net |
Subject: | Re: Governor Cable |
--> RV-List message posted by: rust47rg(at)one.net
>--> RV-List message posted by: David Kerzie
>
>
>Does anybody have any bright ideas on how to secure an Aircraft Spruce
supplied governor cable (V970) to a Van's supplied VA-153 governor control
bracket? Van's picture shows using a jam nut ... my cable has no provisions
for one.
>
>Thanks for any ideas,
>Dave Kerzie
>
Dave:
Get a cablecraft cable.
Regards:
Rusty Gossard
N47RG RV-4 Flying since 8-94 180 C/S
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Tom Martin <fairlea(at)execulink.com> |
Subject: | Re: Bendix FI Installation Questions |
--> RV-List message posted by: Tom Martin
> 1. What orientation did you use? I've got mine installed with the
>throttle control located on the left side and the mixture control on the
>right side.
Mine is revesed but I don't think it matters
>
> 2. The fuel inlet is located just above the mixture control arm. Thus
>the arm has to be installed pointing down. It extends below the flange
>that the filtered air box bolts to and interferes with it. Were any of
>you able to install the filtered air box from Van's on your injection
>units?
I believe that if you look at the other side of the controller you will see
a plug. the Fuel can go in there and move the plug to the other side
>
> 3. With the mixture control arm mounted pointing down, pulling it aft
>rotates the mixture control to full rich, so I can't run the control
>cable straight from the instrument panel. I'll either have to rig up a
>reversing bellcrank under the forward structure, or route the mixture
>cable up the left side and around the front of the metering unit where
>the cable is pointing aft and connect it to the mixture control arm. It
>would be so simple to just mount the control arm pointing up, but the
>fuel inlet is located right in the way.
>
I made a longer arm on my trottle quatrant that extended down. I then hooked
the cable to that, this revesed the movement and the thing works now. It
took many days of pondering to come up with this solution!
Tom Martin
RV-4
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Tom Martin <fairlea(at)execulink.com> |
--> RV-List message posted by: Tom Martin
>>
>
>Tom
>Could you be more specific about what you mean by faring the rear
>portion of the skirt into the turtle deck.
>If this is going to help keep it from leaking might as well do it
>now and get it over with.
>
>Craig Hiers
>RV-4 N143CH
On the rear skirt I put an epoxy fibreglass faring. It wraps around the back
of the skirt for about 10 inches on each side. It extends about 2 inches
farther then the original metal one at the tip and tapers to the metal on
the sides.
I made it so that there is a nice large radius faring the rear of the canopy
skirt into the turtle deck. My canopy no longer raises up. I think that I
must have resolved the turbulence that causes the skirt to lift in flight.
Cold air no longer freezes the neck of the passenger and because it was a
lot of work I think my plane is faster ;)
It took a lot of sanding to make it look good, and it has about 170 hours on
it now with now problems
Tom Martin
RV-4
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Phil Arter <philip.arter(at)mci2000.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV8 - Pitot tube line |
--> RV-List message posted by: Phil Arter
John A Myrick III wrote:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: tmyrick(at)juno.com (John A Myrick III)
>
> I am about to drill the 7/16th holes in my ribs to run the pitot line.
> On plans #15 it shows to measure back 5/8th inch from the main spar
> web
> and drill the hole in the rib there. This will leave almost no edge
> distance at the front of the rib. I want to move the hole back away
> from
> the edge of the rib and center it over the main spar flange. Is there
> anything that I am overlooking that will cause problems later? I
> don't
> know this is the same setup on the -6 and -4 or just on the -8. This
> may
> seem like a trivial question but I want to confirm with others before
> I
> drill. Thanks.
>
> Tripp Myrick
> RV8 #80085 - Left wing
> tmyrick(at)juno.com
Tripp, hi
I'm with you. I drilled mine about 1" from the front of the ribs and 1"
from the bottom. The only consideration is the clearance between the
end of the bolt on the aileron bellcrank and the pitot line. 1" still
leaves you plenty of clearance.
--
Phil Arter, RV-8 #80005
philip.arter(at)mci2000.com
http://acd.ucar.edu/~arter/RV8.html
(303)459-0435 home
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Ken_Hitchmough(at)magic.ca (Ken Hitchmough) |
Subject: | Re: Bendix FI Installation Questions |
--> RV-List message posted by: Ken_Hitchmough(at)magic.ca (Ken Hitchmough)
2. The fuel inlet is located just above the mixture control arm. Thus
the arm has to be installed pointing down. It extends below the flange
that the filtered air box bolts to and interferes with it. Were any of
you able to install the filtered air box from Van's on your injection
units?
I made an attachment to the current mixture arm that effectivelyreversed its direction.
This worked
fine for ensuring the mixture control cable worked in the correct sense, but it
ment that I had to
put a small bump on the cowl to incorporate the increased size of the arm. I know
of at least one
other that has a similar arrangement.
I used Van's airbox.
Ken
RV6A Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Todd <tmrv6(at)pop.erols.com> |
Subject: | Re: Elev Trim Control RV-6 |
--> RV-List message posted by: Todd
Glenn,
This probably won't help you unless you have access to a lathe and
milling machine, but, for the sake of diversity... I made a rack and
pinion assembly, with a 3.5" hand wheel mounted on the pinion gear. The
unit mounts on the left side of the fuselage, just above the pilots
thigh. I used a throttle quadrant cable that is used in the RV-3(it
turns out it was just the right length). The unit is easily accessable
by the pilots right hand. On the front side of the rack, I have a piece
of R/C aircraft control tube that runs up to the inst. panel for a trim
indicator. One drawback is that a right seat driver would have to reach
accross the fuse. to use the trim. In my world, it works fantastic. 175
hours, no problems.
If anybody is interested I have the plans (somewhere), although the
originals are hand written, I have started to move them to AutoCAD(I'll
probably finish by the year 2000).
--
Todd tmrv6(at)erols.com RV-6 N92TM Flying
Glenn & Judi wrote:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Glenn & Judi <flyers@anet-chi.com>
>
> RE: Manual elevator trim on the RV-6
>
> Hi,
>
> Where are some alternative mounting locations for the manual elev trim
> control?
>
> Thanks in advnace,
> Glenn Gordon
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Darrell L. Anderson" <d.l.anderson(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Subject: | storage life of vari-prime |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Darrell L. Anderson"
--> RV-List message posted by: Thomas Velvick
>After I had finished some priming wih Dupont Variprime, I usually have some
left over. I save it in a glass jar with lid and have used it for some
touchups with q-tips. Does anyone know if you can still use it for
starndard painting or do you have to paint within a certain amount of time
after mixing the primer and the converter together.<
The Spec sheet I could readily lay my hands on says that
it has a mixed pot life of three to four days. There is
a more comprehensive publication that has, for the moment,
time-traveled to some other place and time in my shop, that
says you can re-activate previously mixed Variprime by adding
more converter. I don't remember the amount they recommend
adding, I'll try to find it unless someone else has the info
nailed to the wall. The self-etching quality is what suffers
from age.
D. Anderson
RV-4, wings
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bumflyer(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Governor Cable |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bumflyer(at)aol.com
I used a cable safe . Part # 05-16250 from ACS. Had to hog out the hole in
the bracket with a unibit. Works good. Used another where it came through
the firewall.
D Walsh. RV-6A 27 hours.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Governor Cable |
--> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog(at)aol.com
<< Does anybody have any bright ideas on how to secure an Aircraft Spruce
supplied governor cable (V970) to a Van's supplied VA-153 governor control
bracket? Van's picture shows using a jam nut ... my cable has no provisions
for one. >>
Dave-
If you have a teleflex type ferrule on your cable(s), you need the special
bracket that I have designed and documented (send me your address if you want
a copy), a teleflex saddle clamp and a teleflex spacer, which are available
from Airstar. I also have the same thing in a throttle/mixture bracket for
the O-360-A1A. Let me know if you want that too.
Check the Yeller Pages at http://www.sound.net/~hartmann/yelrpage.htm for
Airstar's ph#. The P/Ns are in the archives. Try searching on "teleflex",
"saddle clamps" or "Airstar".
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Brian.Carrigan(at)Sciatl.COM |
--> RV-List message posted by: Brian.Carrigan(at)Sciatl.COM
Date: Thu, 19 Jun 1997 10:34 -0500 (EST)
From: "sprintmail.com!charliekuss(at)matronics.com%PMDF"(at)INTER.corp.sciatl.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: LED Dimmer
--Boundary (ID 4R9JDT7bsmoOEtfFGwQM9w)
Mark:
I would caution you about using one common rheostat on the LED
grounds, as suggested by Charlie Kuss. First of all, most automotive
dimmer switches are not simply rheostats. More on that later. Second
of all, the brightness of your LEDS at a given rheostat setting will
depend on how many are lit at any one time. This could be an annoyance
if you switch on an indicator, and then have to re-adjust the dimmer
switch, because all your LEDs went blank! Third, what are you doing
with the relays?
What I would suggest is something like a simple transistor circuit for
each LED (2n3904 is sufficient, and readily available). The emmitter
of the transistor goes to GND. The collector goes to the LED. The
other side of the LED goes to the current limiting resistor (try 1K
ohm). The other side of the resistor goes to your power supply (+12V).
The base of the transistor has two connections: one to the SPDT switch
you are using to control the auxillary, and one to a series resistor
(try 10K). The idea for the switch is that when the switch is OFF, it
will be grounding the base of the transistor, and when the switch is
ON, the base will be left floating.
The other side of the series resistor goes to the circuit which causes
the dimming. This is nothing more than a variable duty cycle
oscillator which can go from 0% to 100%. Probably Radio Shack can
provide you with the circuit. The dimmer knob controls the duty cycle
of the oscillator. All the transistors are connected to the same
oscillator. Since they will all have the same duty cycle, they will
all appear the same brightness (provided that they are all equally
bright to begin with - note that different colours of LEDs will
require different current limiting resistors).
Hope this helps...
Brian J. Carrigan; RV-6 in progress.
______________________________ Forward Header __________________________________
Subject: Re: RV-List: LED Dimmer
Date: 6/19/97 10:34 AM
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss
Mark,
A very simple way to accomplish this would be to tie all the ground
leads of your LED's together. Run one common wire to a rheostat. Run
another wire from the rheostat to ground. This is how the dome light
circuit on your car works.
Most circuits have constant ground and a switched power source. This
circuit merely installs a variable resistor (rheostat) into the path
from the LED's to ground. Mercedes Benz, Honda and others use seperate
instrument panel dimmer switches (rheostats). One of these would work
great.
Charlie Kuss
RV-8 tail kit came yesterday
Mark S. Malone wrote:
snipped
> I need some help from the electronics gurus. I'm putting .125" LED's
> above each switch on my panel. The LED will light when the switch is
> energizes the equipment, i.e., pitot heat, nav lights, strobe lights,
> etc. I would like to be able to dim the LED's with a single dimmer.
--Boundary (ID 4R9JDT7bsmoOEtfFGwQM9w)
id QAA15784; Thu Jun 19 16:37:30 1997
Date: Thu, 19 Jun 1997 11:34:58 -0400
From: Charlie Kuss <sprintmail.com!charliekuss(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: LED Dimmer
--Boundary (ID 4R9JDT7bsmoOEtfFGwQM9w)--
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Dave Barnhart <barnhart(at)A.crl.com> |
Subject: | Re: Governor Cable |
--> RV-List message posted by: Dave Barnhart
Dave:
>Does anybody have any bright ideas on how to secure an Aircraft Spruce
>supplied governor cable (V970) to a Van's supplied VA-153 governor control
>bracket? Van's picture shows using a jam nut ... my cable has no
>provisions for one.
I don't believe it can be done. At least I understand that Van's bracket
and the ACS cables are not compatible. The bracket I have on my governor
came from a Mooney. instead of using a jamb nut, the bracket has a flat
area so the cable can be clamped to it.
Best Regards,
Dave Barnhart
rv-6 sn 23744 N601DB
installing electrical and avionics
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Dave Barnhart <barnhart(at)A.crl.com> |
Subject: | Re:Wheel Landings |
--> RV-List message posted by: Dave Barnhart
I wrote:
> Granted, this technique uses a lot of runway, and it is not applicable to
> crosswinds, but it makes for nice smooth wheel landings.
And Doug Rozendaal replied:
>I dare to differ with you, The wheel landing you describe is in fact the
>correct one and can be performed in fairly short distances with practice,
>and as for the cross winds...
Well, *I* certainly seem to use a lot of runway :-) Of course, I've only
been wrestling with a tailwheel for about 50 hours.
Best Regards,
Dave Barnhart
rv-6 sn 23744 N601DB
installing electrical and avionics
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | BigCfly001(at)aol.com |
Subject: | pneumatic squeezers |
--> RV-List message posted by: BigCfly001(at)aol.com
Does anyone know of a source of used airtools?I'm looking for a pneumatic
sqeezer.used is preffered.thanks in advance.
chris marion
rv-6 building rudder
cincy oh
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | RV4Brown(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Navaid - Installation question - RV4 |
--> RV-List message posted by: RV4Brown(at)aol.com
I was reviewing the advertising literature for the Navaid. The pictures
show a small servo box with an actuator arm.
Has anyone on the list installed one of these autopilots on an RV-4
equipped with electric flaps?
Where did you install the Navaid actuator box and what type of linkage
setup is used to connect the actuator arm to the controls.
How do you like to performance of the device? Do you use the GPS
interconnect?
Tom Brown RV-4
fuselage in jig - hoping to need instruments someday
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Stan Mehrhoff" <99789978(at)msn.com> |
Subject: | RV 8 center section |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stan Mehrhoff" <99789978(at)msn.com>
Has anyone completed their center section? I am confused with the placement
and hole size in F-804-J . Dimensions on Drawing 11, dated 9/26/96 shows top
of F-804 J 2 and 29/32 below top of center section. If this dimension is
held, the holes will not fall in the center of the angle.
Drawing 18 original shows F-804 J with 8 1/8" holes. Revision # 1 of sheet
18 shows 6 1/8" holes and 1 3/16" hole. Revision # 1 and 2 to sheet # 11
show 3/16" hole enlarged to 5/8" for rudder cable. F 804 J is 3/4 by 3/4 by
1/16" . A 5.8" hole will essentially cut it in two.
________________________________________________________________________________
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ron Caldwell" <rlcaldwell@utah-inter.net>
I have a Prop Governor which came off a Twin Commanche which had Lyc. 0-320
150 fuel injected engines. I would like to install it on my 0-320 D3G 160
hp. Any ideas on how I could go about finding out if it will work on my
engine? Should I call Lycoming or Hartzell or someone else. Appreciate
any ideas. Thanks.
Ron Caldwell
rlcaldwell@utah-inter.net
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Patrick Hurley <patrick.hurley(at)wco.com> |
--> RV-List message posted by: Patrick Hurley
How do I unsubscribe?
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
--> RV-List message posted by: KBoatri144(at)aol.com
Help me avoid a mistake on wire runs in the wings, as I'm about to drill the
ribs for conduit runs, but I want to make sure I use an appropriately sized
conduit.
I expect to use the Whelen strobe system with the single power supply. Am I
correct in assuming that in addition to the shielded wire for the strobes,
I'll need to install a separate run of wire to the wingtips for the postion
lights?
Replies appreciated.
Kyle Boatright
RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Wanted to buy: RV-4 |
--> RV-List message posted by: JMJN01(at)aol.com
Looking to buy an RV-4. Would like an 0-360 powered RV but will consider
any. Day/Night VFR between $35,000 - $45,000. JMJN01(at)AOL.Com
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Unsubscribing |
--> RV-List message posted by: Dennis Jaynes <dljaynes@inter-linc.com>
How do I unsubscribe?
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Joe Colquitt" <jcolquit(at)law.ua.edu> |
Subject: | Re: pneumatic squeezers |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Joe Colquitt"
> From: aol.com!BigCfly001(at)matronics.com
> Date: Sun, 22 Jun 1997 19:57:23 -0400 (EDT)
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: pneumatic squeezers
> Reply-to: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> --> RV-List message posted by: BigCfly001(at)aol.com
>
> Does anyone know of a source of used airtools?I'm looking for a pneumatic
> sqeezer.used is preffered.thanks in advance.
>
Chris, tons of such things are available. Some of the bigger
companies selling used pneumatic equipment include Clinton (Atlanta),
Brown (Texas, Dallas?), and USATCO (California). All of these
companies advertise in Trade-a-Plane.
I bought a nice pneumatic squeezer from USATCO. They had the best
price when I was looking. ;-)
Avery sells a hand squeezer that uses the same heads so you get
double duty from those expensive little jewels. (I've got three!).
Joe Colquitt
Flying RV-3A
Joseph A. (Joe) Colquitt
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | catbird(at)taylortel.com (TTC Carroll A. Bird) |
--> RV-List message posted by: catbird(at)taylortel.com (TTC Carroll A. Bird)
aol.com!KBoatri144(at)matronics.com wrote:
>
> --> Am I
> correct in assuming that in addition to the shielded wire for the strobes,
> I'll need to install a separate run of wire to the wingtips for the postion
> lights?
>
> Replies appreciated.
>
> Kyle Boatright
> RV-6
Yes, you will have to run an extra wire if you ground the pos. lights
at the wingtip. If you want to use the ground device that Bob Nuckolls
recommends then you will need two wires. 18awg fused to 10 amps is what
I will be using.
Carroll
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "I THINK, THEREFORE YOU ARE" <PKIRKPATRICK(at)FAB9.intel.com> |
Subject: | pneumatic squeezers |
--> RV-List message posted by: "I THINK, THEREFORE YOU ARE"
Greetings,
I got my used pneumatic squeezer from Bill Williams Tool Co. in Fort Worth TX.
It is a Chicago Pneumatic 214. Cost me $250.00 with whichever yoke I wanted.
It isn't pretty but it works fine. Bill Williams specializes in surplus tools.
They have all kinds of stuff including clecoes at the best price (.16) I've
found. A little warning on the clecoes... They are definatly surplus. Some have
paint on them others Pro Seal type stuff. Out of the last order I got, 98%
were usable, thats better than the new ones I purchasesd in Febuary from
Avery's, but they will not guarantee them. They will guarantee thier tools to
work though. I should get a order of clecoes today (30 dozen) I'll let everyone
know if the quality has gone downhill.
Don't have the phone # handy because I'm at work but its probably in the Yeller
Pages. If you can't find it email me back and I will dig it up and post it.
They do have an Avery catalog so they can cross reference part numbers. Yokes
are only $50 for any size.
Later,
Pat Kirkpatrick
Rio Rancho, NM
6A- starting to skin both wings
N97WK (res)
PKIRKPATRICK(at)FAB9.INTEL.COM --OR-- KUFU(at)SWCP.COM
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Governor Cable ATTACH |
--> RV-List message posted by: Mlfred(at)aol.com
<< Van's picture shows using a jam nut ... my cable has no provisions
for one.
>
>Thanks for any ideas,
>Dave Kerzie
>
Dave:
Get a cablecraft cable.
>>
Dave:
Summit racing has the end pcs you need. CSI is the brand, p/n 60017 clamp &
shim for morse cable. You might find these at another speed shop, or a boat
shop.
Check six!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Prop Governors |
--> RV-List message posted by: Mlfred(at)aol.com
<< I have a Prop Governor which came off a Twin Commanche which had Lyc.
0-320
150 fuel injected engines. I would like to install it on my 0-320 D3G 160
hp. Any ideas on how I could go about finding out if it will work on my
engine? Should I call Lycoming or Hartzell or someone else. Appreciate
any ideas. Thanks.
Ron Caldwell
rlcaldwell@utah-inter.net
>>
Call John Buck @ EMI for info/exchange rates :
800-851-4392
Be sure to tell him that you don't need a yellow tag, if that's OK with you.
I don't think it will work, as most twins have props that work backwards (oil
press for fine pitch: feather in an engine failure) as compared to sgl engine
types (oil press for coarse pitch: full RPM in an engine failure/loss of
pressure-aerobatic types excluded).
Check six!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | ejansen(at)austin.asc.slb.com |
Subject: | Sealing pop rivets |
--> RV-List message posted by: ejansen(at)austin.asc.slb.com
One technique when using steel pop rivets in aluminum is to dip the pop
rivet in a rather thick solution zinc chromate primer just before
installation. This is to reduce the amount electrolysis between the
aluminum and the steel rivet. the operation is somewhat messy but nobody
ever promised that airplane building was a clean business.
Errol Jansen
> ----------
> From: Bob Skinner[SMTP:navix.net!BSkinner(at)matronics.com]
> Sent: Saturday, June 21, 1997 6:46 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Sealing pop rivets
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Bob Skinner
>
> >Grant: Air works really well: I suggest not filling them with
> anything as it
> >takes a LOT of time to fill all those little holes and a LOT of time
> to sand
> >the filling and they will STILL look like pop rivets, which is, after
> all,
> >what they are. And that's OK.
> >
> >Michael
>
> Of course, with a little moisture and a steel mandrel, there could
> be a
> little rust, right?
>
> Bob Skinner RV-6 BSkinner(at)navix.net
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Navaid - Installation question - RV4 |
--> RV-List message posted by: Mlfred(at)aol.com
<< Where did you install the Navaid actuator box and what type of linkage
setup is used to connect the actuator arm to the controls.
How do you like to performance of the device? Do you use the GPS
interconnect?
>>
I didn't like the actuator attach either. We drilled a hole just above where
the ail pushtubes attach to the torque tube, and attached there with a AN3
bolt and a spacer. We had to knock out the reducing bushing in one of the rod
ends, too. The servo mounts to a flattened "U" bracket attached to the belly
skin. Tuning the thing was no fun (two on board, floor not installed).
The thing will track heading, GPS, VOR, or a localizer very well!
Check six!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Scott Gesele <scottg(at)icsnet.com> |
Subject: | Re: Governor Cable |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Gesele
>--> RV-List message posted by: Dave Barnhart
>
>Dave:
>
>>Does anybody have any bright ideas on how to secure an Aircraft Spruce
>>supplied governor cable (V970) to a Van's supplied VA-153 governor control
>>bracket? Van's picture shows using a jam nut ... my cable has no
>>provisions for one.
>
>I don't believe it can be done. At least I understand that Van's bracket
>and the ACS cables are not compatible. The bracket I have on my governor
>came from a Mooney. instead of using a jamb nut, the bracket has a flat
>area so the cable can be clamped to it.
>
>Best Regards,
>Dave Barnhart
>rv-6 sn 23744 N601DB
>installing electrical and avionics
>
Dave,
It can be done, with a bunch of modifications. I have ACS cables installed
for my MPT on Van's brackets. An extension needed to be fabricated for both
of Van's brackets and retaining clips made to hold the ACS cables. I also
used an Adel clamp as a secondary attachment for the cables to the modified
bracket. It took an entire Saturday to fabricate these things, but appears
to work quite well on the ground. The controls move with no binding. Even
though the Van's brackets needed modifications, they were a good starting
point. The attachments for the bracket to the engine/ governor are taken
care of when using these brackets.
Hope this helps.
Scott Gesele N506RV (Still painting)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Mark LaBoyteaux <tailspin(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Subject: | Pitot Heat Resistance |
--> RV-List message posted by: Mark LaBoyteaux
I've purchased a used heated pitot head, and checked the resistance of
the heater to make sure it was serviceable. With a digital meter, I read
9 ohms resistance. So, for 12 volt supply, it will draw about 1.3 amps.
This translates into about 16 watts of power. This sounds a little low
to me, I was under the impression that the pitot heat would draw around
5 amps. Does anyone know what the resistance for the heater should be?
Mark LaBoyteaux
RV-6A N106RV
tailspin(at)ix.netcom.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | osmith(at)seas.ucla.edu (Owen Smith) |
Subject: | Re: pneumatic squeezers |
--> RV-List message posted by: osmith(at)seas.ucla.edu (Owen Smith)
Try Clinton Tool & Supply (404-766-3222)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | pmbs(at)probe.mt.att.com (Paul M Bilodeau +1 +1 908 957 6611) |
Original-Cc: probe!pmbs
Subject: | Re: Aluminum dust in your eyes |
--> RV-List message posted by: pmbs(at)probe.mt.att.com (Paul M Bilodeau +1 +1 908
957 6611)
> The solution I came up with is as follows: I adapted a Sears dust
> collector from my radial arm saw that connects to my shop vac to collect the
> particulate as it is produced. This seems to help. With warmer weather, I
> will open the wndows as well.
I also noticed the aluminum dust all over my nice "new" tools and tried
two different methods of fixing the problem....first a shower drain
inverted and pop riveted over a hole cut in the grinder end cover (ugly and
didn't quite fit the hose of my shop vac). The second version used
one of Van's 2" aluminum ventilation flanges (see the catalog - pg 16).
It fit the hose much better and if you order it with something else, is
reasonable in cost, even with shipping.
Even though there is lots less aluminum dust in the air these days and I
don't have to keep cleaning off the tops of my power tools, I still wear
the equivalent of a 3M dust mask while doing lots of polishing to keep
whatever junk there is in the air out of my lungs also.
If you are using a shop vac to collect the dust you might want to get
collection bags for ultra fine dust.....in our case aluminum dust, but
your shop vac manual may mention other fine material e.g. pickup of
cement and residue of the same consistency. Some shop vacs will allow the
dust to pass through to the bearings of the motors therby shortening the
life of the shop vac motor.
Paul Bilodeau
pmbs(at)probe.mt.att.com
908-957-6611
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | RV6junkie(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: RV-3 wet wings |
--> RV-List message posted by: RV6junkie(at)aol.com
I see a problem with making the aft ribs in the wing sealable for fuel. Your
wet wings might send the CG to far aft when full. Normally the RV-3 wet
wings are forward of the CG and the Header Tank is infront of the cockpit,
well ahead of the CG.
I would look at the weight and balance of such a configuration before going
ahead with any modification.
Gary Corde
RV-6 N211GC - NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Mike Wills <willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil> |
Subject: | Re: RE: Lex-aire HVLP spray gun |
--> RV-List message posted by: Mike Wills
Eric,
I'm the one who started that thread about 6 months ago and I still havent
bought a gun. I looked at the Sharpe gravity feed HVLP and almost bought but
my compressor doesnt provide the volume of air listed by Sharpe in the spec
sheet. I had the feeling that the salesman was simply trying to sell me what
he had, as he told me there would be no problem with my compressor, but he
wouldnt agree to let me try the gun and take it back if it didnt work out.
I have a 6 hp single stage with 60 gal tank; its the largest single stage
that Home Depot sells. I think its rated at about 10scfm@45psi. Whats your
opinion on this?
BTW I spoke to a guy at Camarillo last weekend (did you go?) who had a
beautiful yellow -4 which he had painted. He also had built and painted an
equally beautiful Glassair III which was parked next to him. He had a lot
of painting experience, used a De Vilbiss OMX gun and Dupont Chroma One. He
said he hated the whole process; the paint was too expensive and hard to
apply, and the hvlp was very hard to get decent atomization with. Kind of a
depressing conversation for a guy like me with little painting experience.
Mike Wills
RV-4 (wings)
willsm(at)manta.nosc.mil
>--> RV-List message posted by: RELOSVCS!WESTREG!EHENSON(at)cldwell.attmail.com
(Henson, Eric)
>
>
>Hi John,
>
>If you can access the archives we had a great discussion on this about 6
>months ago. If not I have used both Sharpe and DeVilvis gravity feed HVLP
>guns and they work as well as the painters technique will allow them. Prices
>run about $230.00 to $350.00. No gun is going to make up for lack of
>knowledge about paint aplication. My recomendation is to buy a good quality
>gun and then spend the money you saved by not buying a hot shot system on
>practice paint. This of course assumes your'e a newbie at the paint game, as
>I was a year ago. I now feel confident enough to paint my entire aircraft.
>Oh, any respectable dual stage compressor should handle the air volume.
>
>Eric Henson
>Dana Point, CA
>Wing Skins On
>
>ehenson(at)cldwell.attmail.com
> ----------
>From: John B. Ciolino
>To: matronics.com!rv-list; EHENSON
>Subject: RV-List: Lex-aire HVLP spray gun
>Date: Thursday, June 19, 1997 8:40PM
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "John B. Ciolino"
>
>RV Listers,
>
>I have been looking for a HVLP conversion paint gun ( i.e. runs off a
>standard compressor) and have some literature on a Lex-aire 2002 gun. I've
>searched the archives but can't find much in the way of recommendations on
>HVLP guns.
>
>Does anyone have experience with the Lex-aire gun? Any recommendations for
>a good HVLP gun?
>
>TIA
>
>
>John Ciolino
>jbc1(at)Ziplink.net
>RV-8 Working on Empannage
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Steven Spruell" <SSPRUELL(at)us.oracle.com> |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Steven Spruell"
--=_ORCL_22152428_0_11919706231439550
Kyle,
I found some very thin-wall PVC at Home Depot which I am using. It is 7/8" OD
and ~3/4" ID, but
weighs less than 1/2" SCH 40. I used a Unibit to drill a 7/8" hole about 1.5"
down from the top
main rib flange and about 2.5" back from the spar. Make sure that your holes will
clear the
spar reinforcment angles on ribs 1-6. I made a little template out of scrap aluminum
to
pilot drill a #40 hole in the correct location on all the ribs, then finished up
with the
Unibit on the drill press. The pipe slid right in when it was on the jig. I'm
using a dab of RTV
at each rib to secure the pipe.
Yes, you will need a separate wire for the position lights. These are switched
separately
from your strobes.
*************************************************************************
* Steven Spruell League City, TX *
* sspruell(at)us.oracle.com RV-6A #24721 (Wings) *
* *
* Houston Bay Area RVators: http://www.iwl.net/customers/markr/hbar *
*************************************************************************
--=_ORCL_22152428_0_11919706231439550
Date: 23 Jun 97 00:06:13
From:"aol.com!KBoatri144(at)matronics.com"
Subject:RV-List: Wire Runs
--> RV-List message posted by: KBoatri144(at)aol.com
Help me avoid a mistake on wire runs in the wings, as I'm about to drill the
ribs for conduit runs, but I want to make sure I use an appropriately sized
conduit.
I expect to use the Whelen strobe system with the single power supply. Am I
correct in assuming that in addition to the shielded wire for the strobes,
I'll need to install a separate run of wire to the wingtips for the postion
lights?
Replies appreciated.
Kyle Boatright
RV-6
--=_ORCL_22152428_0_11919706231439550--
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Boris <smbr(at)digital.net> |
--> RV-List message posted by: Boris
I was just about to close my wings and I ordered the whelen install kit.
I originally drilled for one set of the plastic grommets than Van
supplied. The Whelen wire is much larger than I thought and it takes up
the whole grommet. So, I am drilling a second run on the top side of the
rib for the position and landing light wires (16 and 20 gauge).
aol.com!KBoatri144(at)matronics.com wrote:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: KBoatri144(at)aol.com
>
> Help me avoid a mistake on wire runs in the wings, as I'm about to drill the
> ribs for conduit runs, but I want to make sure I use an appropriately sized
> conduit.
>
> I expect to use the Whelen strobe system with the single power supply. Am I
> correct in assuming that in addition to the shielded wire for the strobes,
> I'll need to install a separate run of wire to the wingtips for the postion
> lights?
>
> Replies appreciated.
>
> Kyle Boatright
> RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Dr John Cocker <jcocker(at)medhumor.com> |
Subject: | First Flight C-GDOC |
--> RV-List message posted by: Dr John Cocker
I have been looking forward to send this message for a long time.
C-GDOC final made it into the air yesterday, following three years of
building, with many helpers. The final inspection was a month ago, and there
was then a very frustrating wait for the paperwork to be completed.
Larry Weeks was the test pilot, and there were no hitches, unless you would
count a slighly heavy right wind, and a complete radio failure caused by the
radio sliding out of its tray. Larry also did the first flight on Ken
Hitchmoughs similar RV 6A one year ago.
The heavy wing was cured instantly by squeezing the trailing edge of the
aileron on the light side. It is hard to believe that such a small squeeze
can make such a big difference.
The final inspection revealed two snags. The word "Canadian" was not on the
ident plate, and I had not fitted the strut from the starter to the
alternator bracket (- I didn't know there was one.)
I will post further information when I am on the ground long enough, but
thanks to the rv-list for a lot of useful advice (and entertainment(
John.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "John C. Devlin" <jdevlin(at)americus.net> |
Subject: | Re: spar construction] |
--> RV-List message posted by: "John C. Devlin"
Larry,
Go to Hovan's Homepage http://rv.austin.apple.com/jhovan/home.html
and look for Rich Klee's article under building tips. Send me an email
off list if you want more info.
Hope this helps,
John Devlin
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | mikel(at)dimensional.com |
--> RV-List message posted by: mikel(at)dimensional.com
>I expect to use the Whelen strobe system with the single power supply. Am I
>correct in assuming that in addition to the shielded wire for the strobes,
>I'll need to install a separate run of wire to the wingtips for the postion
>lights?
Yes, you need a single wire for the position lights. A single wire will do,
even if you have the red/green/white combo lights. Ground the units on the
end wing rib.
Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Boris <smbr(at)digital.net> |
Subject: | Re:Wheel Landings |
--> RV-List message posted by: Boris
Doug Rozendaal wrote:
>
> I dare to differ with you, The wheel landing you describe is in fact the
> correct one and can be performed in fairly short distances with practice,
> and as for the cross winds, It was the only method the DC-3 and Beech 18
> drivers had.
>
Doug,
A few years back I was having lunch with three local old pilots who were telling
stories about their
flying days and we got on the subject of full stall (three point) vs wheel landings.
These guys all
started flying during the thirties. Dick Spalding, a retired airline pilot, and
Bob Lloyd, also an old
airline (and just about everything else) pilot, both said that, originally, all
the landings were
typically full stall, especially in strong winds. At some point the airlines mandated
that they make wheel
landings unless absolutely necessary. Bob said that in some of the small fields
in South America he could
only do full stall (flying the DC-3). Wheelies were done because it was easier
on the passengers, and in a
competitive market, better makes more money. Check out the really old clips on
'Weekday Wings' and, in
fact, most of the old shots, even B-17's, were three-point.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Computers on board? |
--> RV-List message posted by: RV6Russ(at)aol.com
Burt Rutan has his "Boomerang" equipet with a Mac Power Book and it runs
almost everything in the airplane - maybe we could find out how he shields
against RF
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | BARNES_ERIC(at)tandem.com |
Subject: | pneumatic squeezers |
--> RV-List message posted by: BARNES_ERIC(at)tandem.com
Didn't check the Yeller Pages, but I had this in a folder. Ed Cole and
I purchased squeezers from this guy, as did one or two others on the
list - can't remember who. There are at least 4-5 happy campers
however, and no one I know of who got a bad deal.
$249 when I bought it, including a 1 1/2" yoke (other sizes available
for substitute).
Jerry @ Action Air Parts, Inc.
810-364-5885
106 N. Airport Dr.
Port Huron, Michigan 48074
Hope this helps,
EB #80131
------------ ORIGINAL ATTACHMENT --------
SENT 06-22-97 FROM SMTPGATE (BigCfly001(at)aol.com)
--> RV-List message posted by: BigCfly001(at)aol.com
Does anyone know of a source of used airtools?I'm looking for a pneumatic
sqeezer.used is preffered.thanks in advance.
chris marion
rv-6 building rudder
cincy oh
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "David Moore" <dmoore8(at)tuelectric.com> |
--> RV-List message posted by: "David Moore"
Kyle Boatwright asked:
> Help me avoid a mistake on wire runs in the wings, as I'm about to drill
the
> ribs for conduit runs, but I want to make sure I use an appropriately
sized
> conduit.
>
> I expect to use the Whelen strobe system with the single power supply.
Am I
> correct in assuming that in addition to the shielded wire for the
strobes,
> I'll need to install a separate run of wire to the wingtips for the
postion
> lights?
>
You are correct. Van's sell a plastic, ribbed conduit (1/2 or 3/4 in.,
can't remember) which is light weight and works well. It will hold 100
wires, more than you will ever need.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Antenna Corrosion |
--> RV-List message posted by: RICKRV6(at)aol.com
I hope someone can solve this problem. I have a Dorne and Margolin com
antenna mounted on my RV6 floorboard directly behind the battery box. I have
and RG58 cable run underneath the battery box floor which attaches to a 90
degree BNC connector which then connects to the antenna. This arrangement
has worked well for the last five years. A few months ago however, corrosion
began to collect on the 90 degree BNC connector where it attaches to the
antenna and to the antenna connector. The corrosion is a thick white
powder. The corrosion does not collect on the BNC connector of the RG58
cable. I have removed the antenna, cleaned the corrosion and replaced the 90
degree fitting. Most of the plating on the antenna connector is now gone. I
checked yesterday and the corrosion is back.
I'm certain the corrosion is not battery related. The white powder doesn't
have the same smell as battery corrosion plus the carpet which covers the
antenna is in contact with the corrosion is not effected. The battery is a
gell cell and is not leaking. I can only assume there is an incompatability
problem and the antenna may need to be replaced. Help.
Rick McBride
RICKRV6(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | RV6junkie(at)aol.com |
--> RV-List message posted by: RV6junkie(at)aol.com
<< I expect to use the Whelen strobe system with the single power supply. Am
I
correct in assuming that in addition to the shielded wire for the strobes,
I'll need to install a separate run of wire to the wingtips for the postion
lights? >>
The 5/8" ribbed conduit that Van's sells works well. You will run some or
all of the following through each wing:
Postion
Strobe
Landing
Taxi (if installed)
Pitot Heat (if installed)
I have all of the above wires and the 5/8" conduit is works fine. All of the
above are grounded locally so no returns are necessary. I would suggest that
you drill for the conduit on the leading edge side of the spar, thus reducing
the number of wires that will have to pass through the spar. This will also
reduce the chance of interference with the control sticks.
Gary Corde
RV-6 N211GC - NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle 510-606-1001) |
Subject: | Re: Computers on board? |
--> RV-List message posted by: dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle 510-606-1001)
>--------------
>--> RV-List message posted by: RV6Russ(at)aol.com
>
>Burt Rutan has his "Boomerang" equipet with a Mac Power Book and it runs
>almost everything in the airplane - maybe we could find out how he shields
>against RF
>--------------
Actually, I'd be more interested to know how he can get a mac powerbook
to run everything in the airplane... I can't get my PB to even run MS Excel...
Now, if it were my Dell... Yuck yuck yuck... ;-)
[Disclaimer - My intent with this message was not to start a PC vs Mac
thread on the RV-list. Please resist! -Matt]
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
510-606-1001 Voice | 510-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
Subject: | Re: RV6 Panel mod. |
--> RV-List message posted by: randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson)
I too have some questions about dimensions for a throttle/mixture/prop
sub-panel. Specifically, I am wondering what's a reasonable center to
center distance between the controls. Anyone?
Randall
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
--> RV-List message posted by: randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson)
> I expect to use the Whelen strobe system with the single power supply. Am I
> correct in assuming that in addition to the shielded wire for the strobes,
> I'll need to install a separate run of wire to the wingtips for the postion
> lights?
Negative. All the wires are contained in an outer insulating jacket,
out 1/4" dia. You can order the wire kit separately from Van's I
think.
Randall Henderson, RV-6
randall(at)edt.com
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Wis Support <support(at)wa.net> |
Subject: | Re: Unsubscribing |
--> RV-List message posted by: Wis Support
You need to contact the administrator of the list to unsuscribe.
>--> RV-List message posted by: Dennis Jaynes <dljaynes@inter-linc.com>
>
>How do I unsubscribe?
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Subject: | Re: pneumatic squeezers |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dennis Persyk"
Action Air Parts, Port Huron Mich., 313-364-5885 (as of two years ago),
Jerry Williams.
Jerry sells rebuilt squeezers, drills and rivet guns at reasonable prices.
Get to him before OSH!
Dennis 6A fuselage in jig
----------
> From: aol.com!BigCfly001(at)matronics.com
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: pneumatic squeezers
> Date: Sunday, June 22, 1997 5:57 PM
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: BigCfly001(at)aol.com
>
> Does anyone know of a source of used airtools?I'm looking for a pneumatic
> sqeezer.used is preffered.thanks in advance.
>
> chris marion
> rv-6 building rudder
> cincy oh
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
--> RV-List message posted by: randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson)
> Yes, you will have to run an extra wire if you ground the pos. lights
> at the wingtip. If you want to use the ground device that Bob Nuckolls
> recommends then you will need two wires. 18awg fused to 10 amps is what
> I will be using.
This is something I have wondered about. I know Nuckolls recommends
grounding everything at a common place. But as I recall he did say
that some remote things may be grounded locally (he may have even
mentioned the wingtip or landing lights -- I don't remember exactly).
So what's the real deal here? Is it reasonable to run ground wires
from the wingtips all the way back to the panel to get to a common
ground, or is that overkill? Bob?
Randall Henderson, RV-6
randall(at)edt.com
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Edward Cole <emcole(at)concentric.net> |
Subject: | Re: pneumatic squeezers |
--> RV-List message posted by: Edward Cole
I THINK, THEREFORE YOU ARE wrote:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "I THINK, THEREFORE YOU ARE"
>
> Greetings,
>
> I got my used pneumatic squeezer from Bill Williams Tool Co. in Fort Worth TX.
> It is a Chicago Pneumatic 214. Cost me $250.00 with whichever yoke I wanted.
> It isn't pretty but it works fine. Bill Williams specializes in surplus tools.
> They have all kinds of stuff including clecoes at the best price (.16) I've
> found. A little warning on the clecoes... They are definatly surplus. Some have
> paint on them others Pro Seal type stuff. Out of the last order I got, 98%
> were usable, thats better than the new ones I purchasesd in Febuary from
> Avery's, but they will not guarantee them. They will guarantee thier tools to
> work though. I should get a order of clecoes today (30 dozen) I'll let everyone
> know if the quality has gone downhill.
>
> Don't have the phone # handy because I'm at work but its probably in the Yeller
> Pages. If you can't find it email me back and I will dig it up and post it.
>
> They do have an Avery catalog so they can cross reference part numbers. Yokes
> are only $50 for any size.
>
> Later,
>
> Pat Kirkpatrick
> Rio Rancho, NM
> 6A- starting to skin both wings
> N97WK (res)
> PKIRKPATRICK(at)FAB9.INTEL.COM --OR-- KUFU(at)SWCP.COM
Action Air Parts in Michigan is where I got my pneumatic squeezer. The
price was the same and the quality was good. Another friend also got his
there and is satisfied. Their number should be in the archives.
Ed Cole---One wing down , one to go!
RV6A
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | WAF <wayneaf(at)inwave.com> |
--> RV-List message posted by: WAF
1.) E-603 rib odes not have fluting marks extending the length as other
ribs do. Is it acceptable to carry the marks to the end to flatten?
2.) Elevator directions in manual call for drilling th e spar to the
skin. A few paragraphs later this is done while parts are in the "v"
blocks
. which is correct?
3.) Speaking of elevator jig---- center measured from otside edges of
wood or perpendicular to center of the v itself.
Wayne Feggestad
H-S
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | RELOSVCS!WESTREG!EHENSON(at)cldwell.attmail.com (Henson, Eric) |
Subject: | Locking Fuel Caps |
--> RV-List message posted by: RELOSVCS!WESTREG!EHENSON(at)cldwell.attmail.com (Henson,
Eric)
Hi Gang,
A few weeks ago I asked the list if anyone had any experience with the
locking fuel caps that Wicks and ACS carries, as far as installing them. The
problem is they have a six hole configuration on the flanges and now days
most of our kits have pre-drilled tank skins with ten hole positions.
As there has been much discussion about the shortcomings found in the
standard caps, I have vowed to somehow install these very nice locking caps.
If you have never seen them they are very nicely crafted and the opening
mechanism reminded me of the bolt on my 30-06 rifle. Very, very smooth.
I am currently talking with Wicks about ordering a limited quantity of these
caps with undrilled flanges, this would make it a no brainer (I need that
sometimes) to install into you uncompleted kits. If anyone is interested the
cost is $92.00 per cap, all the info I have is what's in the ACS catalogue
and what I saw at Sun N Fun. I need to give an estimate of how many is
needed this week.
If interested please e-mail me privately, PLEASE don't reply to the list.
Thanks,
Eric Henson
Leading edge skins going on.
ehenson(at)cldwell.attmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | William Costello <bcos(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Subject: | Re: pneumatic squeezers |
--> RV-List message posted by: William Costello
Owen Smith wrote:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: osmith(at)seas.ucla.edu (Owen Smith)
>
> Try Clinton Tool & Supply (404-766-3222)
I'd be VERY careful about Clinton T & S. I got reamed by them with a
bunch of junk when I first started out -- 'precision' tools with bent
shafts (only vound this out later); completely the wrong used tools like
they didn't know what I wanted when I know darned sure they did. Just
trying to palm stuff off on a newbie.
I wouldn't buy anything else from them under any circumstances.
Best regards,
Bill Costello
--
Bill Costello | bcos(at)ix.netcom.com | Building RV-6 | Reserv N97WC
Want an extra hour and a half of energy per day with Super Blue
Green products? Email for info or call 800-325-7544 Chicago
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Finn Lassen <finnlass(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Subject: | Re: RV-3 wet wings |
--> RV-List message posted by: Finn Lassen
aol.com!RV6junkie(at)matronics.com wrote:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: RV6junkie(at)aol.com
>
No, no. It's the bays forward of the main wing spar I want to use for
fuel. Pretty much like standard RV wing tanks, except they will not be
removable and leading edge skins and ribs are already all riveted. I'm
simply looking for best way to seal them (in terms of minimum weight and
work). I'm pretty sure that covering all of the inside with glass cloth
would do the job, but because of weight and work I'd prefer only
covering the joints (skin/ribs and skin/spar), if I knew I could trust
the glass/alu bonding. Once a bay is done and the next bay is started,
there is no way to go back and fix leaks. Right now I only have the
fuselage tank. Probably the easiest way would be to use bladders
(rubber?) but I don't know about weight, cost and availability. Are
materials available for one to make his own fuel bladders?
Finn
> I see a problem with making the aft ribs in the wing sealable for fuel. Your
> wet wings might send the CG to far aft when full. Normally the RV-3 wet
> wings are forward of the CG and the Header Tank is infront of the cockpit,
> well ahead of the CG.
>
> I would look at the weight and balance of such a configuration before going
> ahead with any modification.
>
> Gary Corde
> RV-6 N211GC - NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "les williams" <lesliebwilliams(at)msn.com> |
--> RV-List message posted by: "les williams"
Yes, you will need a separate circuit for the navigation lights. And also one
for landing/taxi lights. And one each for anything else you plan on putting
out in the wing, unless you're going to use one switch and a large wire for
everything else other than the strobe high voltage cable!
Les Williams/RV-6AQ
----------
From: owner-rv-list(at)matronics.com on behalf of
aol.com!KBoatri144(at)matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, June 22, 1997 9:06 PM
Subject: RV-List: Wire Runs
--> RV-List message posted by: KBoatri144(at)aol.com
Help me avoid a mistake on wire runs in the wings, as I'm about to drill the
ribs for conduit runs, but I want to make sure I use an appropriately sized
conduit.
I expect to use the Whelen strobe system with the single power supply. Am I
correct in assuming that in addition to the shielded wire for the strobes,
I'll need to install a separate run of wire to the wingtips for the postion
lights?
Replies appreciated.
Kyle Boatright
RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Larry D. Hoatson" <lhoatson(at)e2.empirenet.com> |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry D. Hoatson"
Randall Henderson wrote:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson)
>
> > I expect to use the Whelen strobe system with the single power supply. Am
I
> > correct in assuming that in addition to the shielded wire for the strobes,
> > I'll need to install a separate run of wire to the wingtips for the postion
> > lights?
>
You are correct. The Whelen kit comes complete with all wires bundled
for the stobe installation. This does not include wiring for the nav
light. 1 extra wire to each tip and tail is required.
Larry
--
Larry D. Hoatson Yucaipa, CA Redlands (L12) Airport
lhoatson(at)empirenet.com
KC6WYF via packet at: KC6WYF(at)W6JBT.SOCAL.CA.USA.NOAM
Restoring 1950 Cessna 170A N9948A... Looking forward to RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "John B. Ciolino" <jbc1(at)ziplink.net> |
--> RV-List message posted by: "John B. Ciolino"
RVer's:
I am getting ready to close up the rudder and Van's instructions calls for
placing a dab of RTV at the trailing edge of each stiffener to provide
additional support. Question: won't this block the flow of any water
(rain, condensation) which gets in the rudder?
John Ciolino
jbc1(at)Ziplink.net
RV-8 Working on Empannage
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Ken_Hitchmough(at)magic.ca (Ken Hitchmough) |
Subject: | Re: First Flight C-GDOC |
--> RV-List message posted by: Ken_Hitchmough(at)magic.ca (Ken Hitchmough)
I have been looking forward to send this message for a long time.
C-GDOC final made it into the air yesterday, following three years of
building, with many helpers.
Congratulations John in having completed the best RV6A without AirBeetle gear in
Ontario!
At the rate you're going, you'll have the 25 hrs flown off in no time at all!
Ken
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | chester razer <crazer(at)egyptian.net> |
--> RV-List message posted by: chester razer
Has anyone used the plastic lightweight wiring conduit Vans supplies in
their wiring kits as blast tube to cool mags, fuel pump, gascolator,
etc. The catalog states it is suitable for use in the engine
compartment as long as it remains 4-6" from exhaust pipes.
--
Chet Razer
crazer(at)egyptian.net
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Tom Martin <fairlea(at)execulink.com> |
--> RV-List message posted by: Tom Martin
Tonight while flying home from a local flight the engine in my RV-4 quit. I
was with a friend, John, also my mechanic, at 3000 ft descending to circuit
height. We had just done a high rpm run of 2900 rpm for about four or five
minutes. The engine was running beautifully and we were both enjoying the
sound of a well behaved engine on a perfect flying night.
I slowly reduced power and at 2500 rpm it started to run rough, some slight
shaking. "What's that". All of a sudden not such a perfect flying night. I
reduced power further and it was clear that we had a major problem, Both
mags on, fuel on, boost pump on, switch tanks, no difference. For a fleeting
moment I was convinced that we still had partial power, but it was just the
noise of the engine windmilling. As our speed decreased it got too quiet.
The airport was three miles ahead and I thought that I could make it, but
not for long! We were going down and quick. As luck would have it our farm
was coming up and I planned a descent to a recently planted soybean field. I
called our unicom and did a mayday call three times. Local planes in the air
and the airport staff both replied and I gave my position.
I had been watching my airspeed closely but was getting distracted as the
radio got busy, During this John was very calm and offered suggestions
about different things to try. We were getting close to the ground and John
suggested that I turn off the fuel. I did this and then told him politely to
let me fly the plane.
We were descending faster then I thought we would and my airspeed had
dropped to 65 mph. I was not happy with this as my target was 75 mph at this
point. We were coming down in a quiet glide and cleared hydro wires with
room to spare. The plane settled quickly, bounced slightly, and rolled to a
stop. Somewhere along the way I had put on 20 degrees of flaps. Always the
farmer I remember wondering if we were rolling on the rows of soybeans.
I radioed the airport and told them that we were safe and on the ground. I
dragged the plane backwards out of the field and up the laneway.
What happened. All I know at this point is that when you turn the prop there
is only compression on two cylinders. It sounds expensive. There is
absolutely no damage to the airframe. It was a good landing in a soft field.
This is my second dead stick landing in this aircraft, the first due to a
faulty fuel controller. This engine was rebuild 260 hours ago by someone who
is supposed to know what he is doing.
I am sorry that this is such a long post but I had to write it down and I
thought that it would interest the readers of this list.
I love this plane, I have however lost a lot of respect for this engine!
Tom Martin
RV-4
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Curt Reimer <Curt_Reimer(at)mbnet.mb.ca> |
Subject: | Re: Source For Special Washer... |
--> RV-List message posted by: Curt Reimer
Matt Dralle 510-606-1001 wrote:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle 510-606-1001)
>
> Does anyone know where I could obtain some #6 black plastic/nylon washers?
> I found some nice nylon washers that would work, but there are white and
> would be very ugly. Thanks for any tips...
> To make white nylon into black, or any other color, just buy some RIT fabric
dye
in the color of your choice. Simmer some water, dump in the dye, dissolve it, and
add
your nylon parts. You need to cook them for a few minutes and voila, the nylon
parts
will be saturated through with the coloured dye. Works great.
Curt
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Frank van der Hulst <frankv(at)pec.co.nz> |
--> RV-List message posted by: Frank van der Hulst
us.oracle.com!SSPRUELL(at)matronics.com wrote:
> I found some very thin-wall PVC at Home Depot which I am using. It is
> 7/8"
> OD and ~3/4" ID, but weighs less than 1/2" SCH 40. I used a Unibit to
>
> drill a 7/8" hole about 1.5" down from the top main rib flange and
> about
> 2.5" back from the spar.
I'm doing the same, except I'll put my PVC pipe in front of the main
spar. I'll make up a couple of little brackets to hold it between the
spar and tank. This was recommended to me by Bill Benedict. It
apparently helps solve some wire routing issues in the cockpit.
> I'm using a dab of RTV at each rib to secure the pipe.
Are you worried about the pipe chafing on the rib, particularly since
the wing is likely to move a little relative to the pipe? Maybe some
little gussets (someone suggested PVC of a slightly larger diameter) or
is this overkill? I'm thinking of aerobatics, and maybe the difference
between the fuselage hanging off the wings in flight and the wings
hanging off the fuselage on the ground. How much do the tips move up and
down?
Frank.
________________________________________________________________________________
--> RV-List message posted by: "The French's" <french@mag-net.com>
Hi All
This post is to inform all that Les Vaughan of Hixon BC flew his RV-6
for the first time on June 15th. Les spent 5 years building. Reg is
C-FYQD. Took a while to get the grin unpasted from his face, but he's
back to normal now...
Good to have some company
Ted French
Prince George BC
RV-6A 100+ hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Frank van der Hulst <frankv(at)pec.co.nz> |
Subject: | Re: h-s questions |
--> RV-List message posted by: Frank van der Hulst
inwave.com!wayneaf(at)matronics.com wrote:
> 1.) E-603 rib odes not have fluting marks extending the length as
> other
> ribs do. Is it acceptable to carry the marks to the end to flatten?
Check where the rivets go. Flute midway between rivets. Are you sure you
need to flute to the end? Since the edge of the web isn't curved, the
web shouldn't have bowed much in the forming process.
> 2.) Elevator directions in manual call for drilling th e spar to the
> skin. A few paragraphs later this is done while parts are in the "v"
> blocks which is correct?
I don't recall, but it can't have been a problem because I didn't note
anything about it in my Bunny's Guide page
<http://www.pec.co.nz/~frankv/bunny1.htm> -- check that out for other
stuff about the elevator and rest of the emp.
> 3.) Speaking of elevator jig---- center measured from otside edges of
> wood or perpendicular to center of the v itself.
Should be the same, I think, if everything is square (assuming I've
understood the question correctly). Actually, Van's measurements as
shown on the plans were a bit far apart for me. I'm sure you could move
them in or out an inch or more; the important thing is to hold
everything straight and square to the chord line.
Frank.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "James E. Clark" <James.E.Clark(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Subject: | Re: Pitot Heat Resistance |
--> RV-List message posted by: "James E. Clark"
Is it a "Cessna Tube Type" or a "Piper Blade Type"??
I think my Piper consumes over 5 amps. I can check it if thats the type.
James
RV6AQ ... Trying to complete the S-TEC installation in the wings
----------
> From: Mark LaBoyteaux <ix.netcom.com!tailspin(at)matronics.com>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Pitot Heat Resistance
> Date: Monday, June 23, 1997 1:24 PM
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Mark LaBoyteaux
>
> I've purchased a used heated pitot head, and checked the resistance of
> the heater to make sure it was serviceable. With a digital meter, I read
> 9 ohms resistance. So, for 12 volt supply, it will draw about 1.3 amps.
> This translates into about 16 watts of power. This sounds a little low
> to me, I was under the impression that the pitot heat would draw around
> 5 amps. Does anyone know what the resistance for the heater should be?
>
> Mark LaBoyteaux
> RV-6A N106RV
> tailspin(at)ix.netcom.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "James E. Clark" <James.E.Clark(at)worldnet.att.net> |
--> RV-List message posted by: "James E. Clark"
----------
> From: aol.com!KBoatri144(at)matronics.com
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Wire Runs
> Date: Monday, June 23, 1997 12:06 AM
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: KBoatri144(at)aol.com
>
> Help me avoid a mistake on wire runs in the wings, as I'm about to drill
the
> ribs for conduit runs, but I want to make sure I use an appropriately
sized
> conduit.
I too have the Whelen strobes and am using 1/2" PVC conduit. On my wingtips
I will have Nav, Strobe, Landing/Taxi lights. This seems to be big enough
for that.
Keep in mind though that you **may** want to run wiring for pitot heat
and autopilot. In my case each of these is planned so I may have to have a
*second* 1/2" PVC. Before anyone goes "huh"???, the reason is that on the
QB, the holes that are drilled by Vans and plugged with the little plastic
grommets are too small *and* they are close enough to the top of the rib
that you don't want to drill much bigger than that. Drilling a second hole
in a wing with some of the skins already on takes much bravery. (I
chickened out). My (potential) second one (assuming the wires really don't
fit as I desire) will be run through the lightening holes and clamped.
>
> I expect to use the Whelen strobe system with the single power supply.
Am I
> correct in assuming that in addition to the shielded wire for the
strobes,
> I'll need to install a separate run of wire to the wingtips for the
postion
> lights?
I seem to recall that the Whelen I have (single power supply) has a single
(sizeable) shielded cable with all necessary wiring for strobes and
position lights. I may be wrong though.
Will still need wire for landing/taxi.
James
RV6AQ ... working S-TEC installation (wings)
>
> Replies appreciated.
>
> Kyle Boatright
> RV-6
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)netins.net> |
Subject: | Re:Wheel Landings |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Rozendaal"
I certainly did not mean to start a discussion about which is better, I am
wiser than to wander down that road.... The only point that I was trying
to make is that a wheel landing is a very acceptable method of landing in
when the trees are leaning. It can be done on any runway long enough that
an RV should be routinely operated from. And yes the three-point is
shorter.
I know of no DC-3 or BE-18 operators that advocate or allow the airplanes
to be three pointed. If you want to discuss the reasons why I could go on
and on and won't. (I will if you want too, but it has nothing to do with
RV's, write me directly) The B-17 (I am told, I intend to find out for
myself someday) three-points nicely I see it done regularly as well.
Three-pointing is a great way to land an RV. So is on the wheels. There
really is not a bad way to land an RV. Right side up is good ;-)
Doug Rozendaal ATP CFI MEI B-25 PBY, RV-4 N240
1000 hrs nite frieght BE-18 and a couple hundred right seat in a -3
dougr(at)netins.net
www.petroblend.com/dougr
----------
> From: Boris <digital.net!smbr(at)matronics.com>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Re:Wheel Landings
> Doug,
>
> A few years back I was having lunch with three local old pilots who were
telling stories about their
> flying days and we got on the subject of full stall (three point) vs
wheel landings. These guys all
> started flying during the thirties. Dick Spalding, a retired airline
pilot, and Bob Lloyd, also an old
> airline (and just about everything else) pilot, both said that,
originally, all the landings were
> typically full stall, especially in strong winds. At some point the
airlines mandated that they make wheel
> landings unless absolutely necessary. Bob said that in some of the small
fields in South America he could
> only do full stall (flying the DC-3). Wheelies were done because it was
easier on the passengers, and in a
> competitive market, better makes more money. Check out the really old
clips on 'Weekday Wings' and, in
> fact, most of the old shots, even B-17's, were three-point.
________________________________________________________________________________
Date-Warning: Date header was inserted by InfoAve.Net
From: | GIBBONSR.FTC-I.NET(at)InfoAve.Net (RB Gibbons) |
Subject: | Re: RV 8 center section |
--> RV-List message posted by: GIBBONSR.FTC-I.NET(at)InfoAve.Net (RB Gibbons)
Tail done. Left wing done. Ribs on right spar. Center section done. Yes
indeed, the hole will almost cut it two, but not quite. Mine worked out fine.
>
>Has anyone completed their center section? I am confused with the placement
>and hole size in F-804-J . Dimensions on Drawing 11, dated 9/26/96 shows top
>of F-804 J 2 and 29/32 below top of center section. If this dimension is
>held, the holes will not fall in the center of the angle.
>
>Drawing 18 original shows F-804 J with 8 1/8" holes. Revision # 1 of sheet
>18 shows 6 1/8" holes and 1 3/16" hole. Revision # 1 and 2 to sheet # 11
>show 3/16" hole enlarged to 5/8" for rudder cable. F 804 J is 3/4 by 3/4 by
>1/16" . A 5.8" hole will essentially cut it in two.
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Frank van der Hulst <frankv(at)pec.co.nz> |
--> RV-List message posted by: Frank van der Hulst
ziplink.net!jbc1(at)matronics.com wrote:
> I am getting ready to close up the rudder and Van's instructions calls
> for
> placing a dab of RTV at the trailing edge of each stiffener to provide
>
> additional support. Question: won't this block the flow of any water
> (rain, condensation) which gets in the rudder?
I guess. However:
1. How is water going to get to your trailing edge? Conceivably a little
could leak in round the top fairing, then run down the inside of the
skin to the first stiffener, then down the stiffener to the TE.
2. Since the rudder is vertical (more or less), not much will collect
there (a mm or so?) before overflowing down to the next stiffener and so
on down to the bottom fairing. I'm planning on putting a wee (pun
intended) hole here. That'll allow egress of water that comes in via the
hinge gaps in the rudder LE.
3. A few bounces over the grass and flicks to and from of the rudder
(full & free pre-flight check) will knock the remnants loose. In short,
I don't think it's a significant problem.
4. The elevator (and trim tab?) TEs may be more of a concern.
Anyone with a flying RV had any problems with this?
Frank.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "John B. Abell" <jbabell(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Subject: | Re: Pitot Heat Resistance |
--> RV-List message posted by: "John B. Abell"
Mark,
As a point of comparison, the AN5812 12 volt pitot heater draws 10 amps.
The 12 volt AN5814, which has both a pitot and static heater, draws 20
amps. Yours seems pretty weak in comparison.
Jack Abell
RV-6A N333JA (Reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Charlie & Tupper England <england(at)vicksburg.com> |
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie & Tupper England
>RV-List, I took an extra altimeter with me in my RV-4 several years ago
>that was just vented to the cockpit. When my speed was indicating about
>160, the altimeter vented in the cockpit was indicating 300 feet higher
>than the aircraft system altimeter.
>The canopy is raised because it has lift, not because of the positive
>pressure inside. The altimeter experiment proved to me that the cockpit of
>the -4 is at a slight vacuum and the amount of vacuum is proportional to
>airspeed.
>>I first noticed this on the way to Oshkosh in 1980 while flying a
>>Mustang II in a rain. We kept getting wet - the rainwater would run
>>down the canopy and tuck under at the back where the canopy had
>>raised off the fuselage due to pressure inside and lifting force on
>>the outside - the canopy is shaped like an airfoil, is it not. The
>>airflow then would "throw" the rain forward and hit us in the back of
>>the head and neck. Talk about drag - I'd like for an aeronautical
>>engineer to calculate that!
>>Joe Colquitt
>>Flying - well ventilated - RV-3, but a Spitfire it ain't.
>Bill
I think that it would be enlightening to place the extra altimeter's port
outside the back of the canopy. If you look at a sampling of T-18's, the most
common fresh air port is: (pause for effect) the trailing edge of the canopy.
It is NOT an exit point.
I'll bet the canopy trailing edge is at a relatively high pressure.
Bill, has Van's measured this?
Charlie (england(at)vicksburg.com)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "John B. Abell" <jbabell(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Subject: | Re: engine failure |
--> RV-List message posted by: "John B. Abell"
Tom,
Something like 95 percent of in-flight power losses are the result of
fuel starvation. You got nailed with one of the five percent and
managed to walk away from it.
Nice work.
Jack Abell
RV-6A N333JA (Reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Paul Osterman III" <PineRanch(at)msn.com> |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Paul Osterman III"
Tom,
Sorry to hear about your trouble. You didn't say what engine you've got in
your RV-4.
Paul OstermanIII
RV6A Wings only a few rivets away from completion
Anderson, Ca
----------
From: owner-rv-list(at)matronics.com on behalf of Tom Martin
Sent: Monday, June 23, 1997 7:26 PM
Subject: RV-List: engine failure
--> RV-List message posted by: Tom Martin
Tonight while flying home from a local flight the engine in my RV-4 quit.
>>
I love this plane, I have however lost a lot of respect for this engine!
Tom Martin
RV-4
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Subject: | Re: engine failure |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer
Tom Martin wrote:
> -***Snip***
> I am sorry that this is such a long post but I had to write it down
> and I
> thought that it would interest the readers of this list.
> I love this plane, I have however lost a lot of respect for this
> engine!
>
> Tom Martin
> RV-4
Tom
Congratulations on a job well done. Sorry about the engine but glad no
one was hurt.
--
Jerry Springer RV-6 N906GS First flight July 14, 1989 :-) Hillsboro, OR
jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Leo Davies <leo(at)icn.su.OZ.AU> |
Subject: | Re: engine failure |
--> RV-List message posted by: Leo Davies
>--> RV-List message posted by: Tom Martin
>
Tonight while flying home from a local flight the engine in my RV-4 quit.
All of a sudden not such a perfect flying night.
We were coming down in a quiet glide and cleared hydro wires with
room to spare. The plane settled quickly, bounced slightly, and rolled to a
stop.
I dragged the plane backwards out of the field and up the laneway.
There is
absolutely no damage to the airframe.
Tom Martin
>RV-4
>
Tom,
Bloody well done. You turned a disaster into an adventure. And you still
have a plane. Hope I do as well when my turn comes.
My new engine from Van's is looking less expensive all the time.
Well done again
Leo Davies
leo(at)icn.su.oz.au
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | ab6a(at)juno.com (ALLAN E POMEROY) |
--> RV-List message posted by: ab6a(at)juno.com (ALLAN E POMEROY)
Matt,
Please unsubscribe me. This will only be temporary. I will be
back once my email is straightened out. Thanks.
Allan Pomeroy
AB6A(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Tom Martin <fairlea(at)execulink.com> |
--> RV-List message posted by: Tom Martin
At 05:19 24/06/97 UT, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Paul Osterman III"
>
>Tom,
> Sorry to hear about your trouble. You didn't say what engine you've got in
>your RV-4.
>
>Paul OstermanIII
>RV6A Wings only a few rivets away from completion
I have a 180hp I0-360 with a bendix injector, everything stock.
Tom Martin
(not sleeping well!)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | bennett(at)zip.com.au |
--> RV-List message posted by: bennett(at)zip.com.au
>
> >RV-List, I took an extra altimeter with me in my RV-4 several years ago
> >that was just vented to the cockpit. When my speed was indicating about
> >160, the altimeter vented in the cockpit was indicating 300 feet higher
> >than the aircraft system altimeter.
>
> >The canopy is raised because it has lift, not because of the positive
> >pressure inside. The altimeter experiment proved to me that the cockpit of
> >the -4 is at a slight vacuum and the amount of vacuum is proportional to
> >airspeed.
>
> >>I first noticed this on the way to Oshkosh in 1980 while flying a
> >>Mustang II in a rain. We kept getting wet - the rainwater would run
> >>down the canopy and tuck under at the back where the canopy had
> >>raised off the fuselage due to pressure inside and lifting force on
> >>the outside - the canopy is shaped like an airfoil, is it not. The
> >>airflow then would "throw" the rain forward and hit us in the back of
> >>the head and neck. Talk about drag - I'd like for an aeronautical
> >>engineer to calculate that!
>
> >>Joe Colquitt
> >>Flying - well ventilated - RV-3, but a Spitfire it ain't.
> >Bill
>
> I think that it would be enlightening to place the extra altimeter's port
> outside the back of the canopy. If you look at a sampling of T-18's, the most
> common fresh air port is: (pause for effect) the trailing edge of the canopy.
> It is NOT an exit point.
> I'll bet the canopy trailing edge is at a relatively high pressure.
> Bill, has Van's measured this?
>
> Charlie (england(at)vicksburg.com)
>
Bill's experiment was most enlightening. My guess would be that the
air is exiting from the canopy into the low pressure area that
extends along the top of the wings and over the canopy. The canopy
probably bulges at the sides to vent the air. Behind the canopy would
be relatively high pressure as the fuselage cross section has reduced
at this point. The flow would be in the back and out the sides.
Peter Bennett
Sydney Australia
RV6 building sliding canopy
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Antenna Corrosion |
41,43,45-51
From: | wstucklen1(at)juno.com (Frederic W Stucklen) |
--> RV-List message posted by: wstucklen1(at)juno.com (Frederic W Stucklen)
Rick,
First try and replace the fitting with one made from a different
material. You
may have a simple case of dissimilar material electrolysis. Next start
looking
for a possible ground current loop through the shield of the coax. This
could
be caused by a poor ground on the radio itself.
Another possibility could be contamination in the rug covering the
fitting.
Fred Stucklen RV-6A N925RV
wstucklen1(at)juno.com
writes:
>--> RV-List message posted by: RICKRV6(at)aol.com
>
>I hope someone can solve this problem. I have a Dorne and Margolin com
>antenna mounted on my RV6 floorboard directly behind the battery box. I
have
>and RG58 cable run underneath the battery box floor which attaches to
>a 90 degree BNC connector which then connects to the antenna. This
arrangement
>has worked well for the last five years. A few months ago however,
corrosion
>began to collect on the 90 degree BNC connector where it attaches to the
> antenna and to the antenna connector. The corrosion is a thick white
>powder. The corrosion does not collect on the BNC connector of the RG58
>cable. I have removed the antenna, cleaned the corrosion and replaced
the 90
>degree fitting. Most of the plating on the antenna connector is now
gone. I
>checked yesterday and the corrosion is back.
>
>I'm certain the corrosion is not battery related. The white powder
doesn't
>have the same smell as battery corrosion plus the carpet which covers
the
>antenna is in contact with the corrosion is not effected. The battery
is a
>gell cell and is not leaking. I can only assume there is an
incompatability
>problem and the antenna may need to be replaced. Help.
>
>Rick McBride
>RICKRV6(at)aol.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: First Flight C-GDOC |
From: | wstucklen1(at)juno.com (Frederic W Stucklen) |
--> RV-List message posted by: wstucklen1(at)juno.com (Frederic W Stucklen)
John,
Congradulations on your first flight. Now the fun REALLY begins!
Fred Stucklen RV-6A N925RV
wstucklen1(at)juno.com
writes:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Dr John Cocker
>
>I have been looking forward to send this message for a long time.
>C-GDOC final made it into the air yesterday, following three years of
>building, with many helpers. The final inspection was a month ago, and
there
>was then a very frustrating wait for the paperwork to be completed.
>
>Larry Weeks was the test pilot, and there were no hitches, unless you
would
>count a slighly heavy right wind, and a complete radio failure caused by
the
>radio sliding out of its tray. Larry also did the first flight on Ken
>Hitchmoughs similar RV 6A one year ago.
>
>The heavy wing was cured instantly by squeezing the trailing edge of the
>aileron on the light side. It is hard to believe that such a small
squeeze
>can make such a big difference.
>
>The final inspection revealed two snags. The word "Canadian" was not on
the
>ident plate, and I had not fitted the strut from the starter to the
>alternator bracket (- I didn't know there was one.)
>
>I will post further information when I am on the ground long enough, but
>thanks to the rv-list for a lot of useful advice (and entertainment(
>
>John.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | William Costello <bcos(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Subject: | Unsubscribe - the true story |
--> RV-List message posted by: William Costello
To UNSUBSCRIBE from the RV list, just send an email
to
RV-list-request(at)matronics.com
with nothing (blank) in the Subject
and one word in the body: UNSUBSCRIBE
Note that the message is to RV-list-REQUEST(at)matronics.com
and NOT to RV-list
It would probably be good for us to read the 'Rules of the road'
that Matt Dralle sends out about once a month. But I suppose many
of us independent folks only read directions if ALL else fails.
Best regards,
Bill Costello
--
Bill Costello | bcos(at)ix.netcom.com | Building RV-6 | Reserv N97WC
Want an extra hour and a half of energy per day with Super Blue
Green products? Email for info or call 800-325-7544 Chicago
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | OrndorffG(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Prop Governors |
--> RV-List message posted by: OrndorffG(at)aol.com
Ron,
If you can give me the number off the governor I can tell you if it can be
used. I have a list of governors that will work or can be made to
work....George Orndorff
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | OrndorffG(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Wanted to buy: RV-4/rv 4 for sale |
--> RV-List message posted by: OrndorffG(at)aol.com
call jim hyde (817) 326-4131 he has a RV4 for sale
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Patrick Kelley <patk(at)mail.ic.net> |
--> RV-List message posted by: Patrick Kelley
Frank van der Hulst wrote:
> 1. How is water going to get to your trailing edge? Conceivably a little
> could leak in round the top fairing, then run down the inside of the
> skin to the first stiffener, then down the stiffener to the TE.
I'd still worry about condensation. Quite a lot of water could condense
on the inner surfaces without running down. However, due to the
orientation of the surface, I don't think much, if any would be trapped
by the stiffeners. Be sure to drill the drain hole in the bottom
fairing, though.
PatK - RV-6A
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | JRoss10612(at)aol.com |
--> RV-List message posted by: JRoss10612(at)aol.com
Joe:
Vans does call for a dab of RTV at the trailing edge by each stiffener as an
additional safeguard to prevent vibration and susequent cracking. With the
rudder mounted vertically, I doubt water would could become trapped. What I
did to prevent water entrapment on my elevators was to cut a 3/4" long small
section of a plastic drinking straw and push this into the trailing edge by
each stiffener before applying the RTV. When you look down the training edge
lengthwise, you can see light, yet there is a large enough glob of RTV
present around each piece of plastic straw to prevent vibration. As I say, I
doubt this precaution would be necessary on a vertically mounted rudder,
however it is a homebuilt airplane and you can do what you like in this area.
Hope this helps.
Jon Ross RV-80094 - Finishing wings, fuselage kit should be here any day...
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Peter Hanna <peterh(at)rdmcorp.com> |
Subject: | Re: engine failure |
--> RV-List message posted by: Peter Hanna
>--> RV-List message posted by: Tom Martin
>
>Tonight while flying home from a local flight the engine in my RV-4 quit.
Tom: Great job on the forced landing. Looking foward to hearing what went
wrong, and any further advice on best engine out speeds, impressions, etc.,
for RVs. What speed did you use for best glide prior to final appraoch? Is
110 mph about right?
Peter Hanna, RDM Corp, 4-608 Weber St. North, Waterloo, Canada, N2V1K4.
B: 519-746-8483 X224, 1-800-567-6227 X224, Fax: 519-746-3317.
Email: peterh(at)rdmcorp.com. -6 Fuselage.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Denny Harjehausen <retflygtiger(at)proaxis.com> |
Subject: | Re: First Flight C-GDOC |
--> RV-List message posted by: Denny Harjehausen
>--> RV-List message posted by: Dr John Cocker
>
>I have been looking forward to send this message for a long time.
>C-GDOC final made it into the air yesterday, following three years of
>building, with many helpers. The final inspection was a month ago, and there
>was then a very frustrating wait for the paperwork to be completed.
(Snip)
Hey that is Great! Have fun flying it!
Have a Great Day!
Denny
RV-6 (R)N641DH
Fuselage top side
Lebanon, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Charlie Kuss <charliekuss(at)sprintmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: Locking Fuel Caps |
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss
Henson, Eric wrote:
snipped
> I am currently talking with Wicks about ordering a limited quantity of these
> caps with undrilled flanges, this would make it a no brainer (I need that
> sometimes) to install into you uncompleted kits. If anyone is interested the
> cost is $92.00 per cap, all the info I have is what's in the ACS catalogue
> and what I saw at Sun N Fun. I need to give an estimate of how many is
> needed this week.
>
> If interested please e-mail me privately, PLEASE don't reply to the list.
Eric,
I'll be interested in about 6 months. Obviously you don't want to tie
your money up for that length of time. I'm still buying tools so I'm not
in a position to buy that far ahead. Let Wicks know I'll buy in 6
months.
Charlie Kuss
Rv-8 H.S.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Dr John Cocker <jcocker(at)medhumor.com> |
Subject: | Re: engine failure |
--> RV-List message posted by: Dr John Cocker
Thanks for the email John.
Sorry I can't recall the shipping costs, I block out all these painful
memories, I think it is called "Repressed memory syndrome."
I now have five uneventful hours of flying time on C-GDOC, and I am having a
ball.
I will look up the shipping costs, and if are down this way, the aircraft is
at Buttonville, call me on 905 853 1884 or home at 905 836 7067
John
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Dennis Jaynes <dljaynes(at)ipa.net> |
--> RV-List message posted by: Dennis Jaynes
Please unsubscribe me. I will be back once my email is straightened
out. Thanks.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Graham Armour <grahama(at)cmw.ca> |
--> RV-List message posted by: Graham Armour
chester razer wrote:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: chester razer
>
> Has anyone used the plastic lightweight wiring conduit Vans supplies in
Chester,
We have used this plastic conduit to cool mags, gascolator and
alternator. All air is picked up from the rear engine baffle. We have
had no problems in over 150 hrs. since first flight last September.
Graham Armour
RV-6 C-FVMH
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Don McNamara <mcnamara(at)sbt.infi.net> |
--> RV-List message posted by: Don McNamara
John B. Ciolino wrote:
> I am getting ready to close up the rudder and Van's instructions calls for
> placing a dab of RTV at the trailing edge of each stiffener to provide
> additional support. Question: won't this block the flow of any water
> (rain, condensation) which gets in the rudder?
John--
I remembered to add my RTV to my rudder stiffeners just as I was putting
in the last of the pop rivets to close the leading edge! I contemplated
making a new rudder, but then was advised that RTV probably isn't even
necessary if your stiffeners are close enough (<1") to the trailing
edge. So, I guess I'll take my chances. I can always make a new
rudder.
--Don McNamara
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Robert Acker <r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Subject: | Re: Pitot Heat Resistance |
--> RV-List message posted by: Robert Acker
>--> RV-List message posted by: "John B. Abell"
>Mark,
>As a point of comparison, the AN5812 12 volt pitot heater draws 10 amps.
>The 12 volt AN5814, which has both a pitot and static heater, draws 20
>amps. Yours seems pretty weak in comparison.
>
>Jack Abell
>RV-6A N333JA (Reserved)
The spec sheet for the 12-volt AN5812 I installed this weekend claims 4.5
amps. So, should I size up the wire & breaker for 5 or 10 amps?
Rob Acker / r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com / RV-6Q
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Denny Harjehausen <retflygtiger(at)proaxis.com> |
--> RV-List message posted by: Denny Harjehausen
(Snip)
>I have a 180hp I0-360 with a bendix injector, everything stock.
>
>Tom Martin
>(not sleeping well!)
That was one gripping story there, Tom! I experienced something similar in
that won't land off airport well,but happily they started at a lower
altitude. That is a terrible sinking ;^) feeling! It is great your skill was
up to the challege. It seems like most of the power out/off airport landings
end up on their back. I have often wondered if there is much instruction
and practice on dead stick landings done these days. As I notice that most
light aircraft I observe locally seem to drag in with power.
I assume you have a C/S prop...If so was it set for that high of RPM? The
reason I ask is a fellow with lots of experience in engine experimentation
told me that I could run my O-320 up higher than 2700 recommended with out
any ill affects. He gave me the reasons which I have since forgotten.
Have great Day!
Denny
RV-6 (R)N641DH
Fuselage top side
Lebanon, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | BARNES_ERIC(at)tandem.com |
--> RV-List message posted by: BARNES_ERIC(at)tandem.com
Hi Wayne,
If I understand your questions correctly:
1) This is confusing. I don't think the skins fit into the "V" well
until the stiffners are in and the trailing edge bent. But they say to
drill to the spar before the stiffners go in, right? (Maybe that was
just on the rudder). In anycase, on my PP Kit, I don't think there was
any room for adjustment anyway. Of course, maybe that's why more people
with the PP emp. are ending up with oil-canning...
Safest seems to be to do the stiffners, bend, and then drill the spar to
the skins in the jig. Can't see how it wouldn't be straight that way.
2) I measured the center of the "V" at the large end of the wedge. If
the "V" is not in the center of the block, using the outside edges of
the block will throw it off. The idea is to have the "V"s straight up,
and directly across from one another. I used a plumb line down each
wedge and shimmed the block until the center line was verticle, drew a
line on the bench between the centerlines at the bottom of each block,
and squared the blocks up to that line.
If I have misunderstood your question - sorry!
EB #80131
------------ ORIGINAL ATTACHMENT --------
SENT 06-23-97 FROM SMTPGATE (wayneaf(at)inwave.com)
--> RV-List message posted by: WAF
1.) E-603 rib odes not have fluting marks extending the length as other
ribs do. Is it acceptable to carry the marks to the end to flatten?
2.) Elevator directions in manual call for drilling th e spar to the
skin. A few paragraphs later this is done while parts are in the "v"
blocks
. which is correct?
3.) Speaking of elevator jig---- center measured from otside edges of
wood or perpendicular to center of the v itself.
Wayne Feggestad
H-S
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)navix.net> |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bob Skinner
>Has anyone used the plastic lightweight wiring conduit Vans supplies in
>their wiring kits as blast tube to cool mags, fuel pump, gascolator,
>etc. The catalog states it is suitable for use in the engine
>compartment as long as it remains 4-6" from exhaust pipes.
>--
>Chet Razer
Chet,
I've used the conduit for blast tubes to the mags, alternator and
gascolator and the tubing is holding up well. I use 2" scat tube for
cooling the mechanical fuel pump as this is the size required for the fuel
pump shroud that I'm using.
Bob Skinner RV-6 BSkinner(at)navix.net
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "D. F. Cimperman, Jr." <Cimperman(at)tusco.net> |
Subject: | Re: engine failure |
--> RV-List message posted by: "D. F. Cimperman, Jr."
I could care less if the post is long, if I want to know the information, I
will read, if not, I pass it up. I was interested in reading, It can only
help us to know about problems like this, it may save our life some day.
Thanks Dave
----------
> From: Tom Martin <execulink.com!fairlea(at)matronics.com>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: engine failure
> Date: Monday, June 23, 1997 7:26 PM
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Tom Martin
>
> Tonight while flying home from a local flight the engine in my RV-4 quit.
I
> was with a friend, John, also my mechanic, at 3000 ft descending to
circuit
> height. We had just done a high rpm run of 2900 rpm for about four or
five
> minutes. The engine was running beautifully and we were both enjoying the
> sound of a well behaved engine on a perfect flying night.
> I slowly reduced power and at 2500 rpm it started to run rough, some
slight
> shaking. "What's that". All of a sudden not such a perfect flying night.
I
> reduced power further and it was clear that we had a major problem, Both
> mags on, fuel on, boost pump on, switch tanks, no difference. For a
fleeting
> moment I was convinced that we still had partial power, but it was just
the
> noise of the engine windmilling. As our speed decreased it got too quiet.
> The airport was three miles ahead and I thought that I could make it, but
> not for long! We were going down and quick. As luck would have it our
farm
> was coming up and I planned a descent to a recently planted soybean
field. I
> called our unicom and did a mayday call three times. Local planes in the
air
> and the airport staff both replied and I gave my position.
> I had been watching my airspeed closely but was getting distracted as the
> radio got busy, During this John was very calm and offered suggestions
> about different things to try. We were getting close to the ground and
John
> suggested that I turn off the fuel. I did this and then told him politely
to
> let me fly the plane.
> We were descending faster then I thought we would and my airspeed had
> dropped to 65 mph. I was not happy with this as my target was 75 mph at
this
> point. We were coming down in a quiet glide and cleared hydro wires with
> room to spare. The plane settled quickly, bounced slightly, and rolled
to a
> stop. Somewhere along the way I had put on 20 degrees of flaps. Always
the
> farmer I remember wondering if we were rolling on the rows of soybeans.
> I radioed the airport and told them that we were safe and on the ground.
I
> dragged the plane backwards out of the field and up the laneway.
> What happened. All I know at this point is that when you turn the prop
there
> is only compression on two cylinders. It sounds expensive. There is
> absolutely no damage to the airframe. It was a good landing in a soft
field.
> This is my second dead stick landing in this aircraft, the first due to a
> faulty fuel controller. This engine was rebuild 260 hours ago by someone
who
> is supposed to know what he is doing.
> I am sorry that this is such a long post but I had to write it down and I
> thought that it would interest the readers of this list.
> I love this plane, I have however lost a lot of respect for this engine!
>
> Tom Martin
> RV-4
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | mauser(at)claris.com (Richard Chandler) |
Subject: | Re: Unsubscribe - the true story |
--> RV-List message posted by: mauser(at)claris.com (Richard Chandler)
> with nothing (blank) in the Subject
> and one word in the body: UNSUBSCRIBE
> Note that the message is to RV-list-REQUEST(at)matronics.com
One list I'm on puts this info in a two line .sig appended to every message.
--
"Wait a minute, you expect us innocent children to climb up dangerous
scaffolding and paint naked people all over a church? We'll do it!!"
-- Yakko Warner, Animaniacs
"Yeah, I've got ADD, you wanna make something of.... oooh, cool. Look!"
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne) |
Subject: | Current topics - my two bits... |
--> RV-List message posted by: halk(at)sybase.com (Hal Kempthorne)
Hi all,
You'll be gald to know I don't have time to gab at length! I do have a few
words of - well, whatever:
Re: Inlet air vents - my Debonair has a cabin air inlet on top the cabin, aft
the passengers and outlet underneath.
Re: Wire looms - my Debonair has landing gear wiring which is exposed to weather
etc in a plastic tube. The dirt, water, bugs etc that had accumulated there are
now coming back out as the tubing disintegrates. The wiring is in fine
condition. There is little or no loom or conduit inside the aircraft and the
wiring is pretty good after 32 years of service. They do wrap it and attach it
frequently. My feelings: generally inside the airplane the loom has weight,
costs time and money and adds nothing.
Re: Water in the rudder - I flew a rental Cherokee once in which the rudder
froze up solid once I reached altitude. Don't give it a chance to accumulate.
Re: Blast tubing, ducts etc - the auto makers use a corrugated aluminum tube -
sometimes with paper lining. Super light, cheap and locally available. No
where near as indestructable as SCAT though.
Re: Antenna corrosion. Corrosion-X or similar is good. Wet carpet is bad as
is battery acid, of course.
Re: Painting with HVLP - I painted an occasional motorcycle years ago and got a
big kick out of it. Even bad results swelled me with pride. I am one of those
"Good enough is good enough" people though. I didn't like the clouds of paint,
spattering or the clean up. I think HVLP would be great fun.
Hal Kempthorne RV-6AQ -- On main gear - panel fitted
halk(at)sybase.com Santa Clara, CA. Debonair N6134V @ SJC
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | antenna Corrosion |
--> RV-List message posted by: RICKRV6(at)aol.com
I hope someone can solve this problem. I have a Dorne and Margolin com
antenna mounted on my RV6 floorboard directly behind the battery box. I have
an RG58 cable run underneath the battery box floor which attaches to a 90
degree BNC connector which then connects to the antenna. This arrangement
has worked well for the last five years. A few months ago however, corrosion
began to collect on the 90 degree BNC connector where it attaches to the
antenna connector. The corrosion is a thick white powder. The corrosion
does not collect on the BNC connector of the RG58 cable. I have removed the
antenna, cleaned the corrosion and replaced the 90 degree fitting. Most of
the plating on the antenna connector is now gone. I checked yesterday and
the corrosion is back.
I'm certain the corrosion is not battery related. The white powder doesn't
have the same smell as battery corrosion plus the carpet which covers the
antenna and is in contact with the corrosion is not effected. The battery is
a gell cell and is not leaking. I can only assume there is an
incompatability problem and the antenna may need to be replaced. Help.
Rick McBride
RICKRV6(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Larry D. Hoatson" <lhoatson(at)e2.empirenet.com> |
Subject: | Re: Pitot Heat Resistance |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry D. Hoatson"
> The spec sheet for the 12-volt AN5812 I installed this weekend claims 4.5
> amps. So, should I size up the wire & breaker for 5 or 10 amps?
>
> Rob Acker / r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com / RV-6Q
Hello Rob,
Do you have a copy of AC 43.13? It has the wire size information for a
given load and length of run - then I usually go 1 size larger. How's
the bird coming? Was Bakersfield worth the trip? Sorry we missed you.
Larry
--
Larry D. Hoatson Yucaipa, CA Redlands (L12) Airport
lhoatson(at)empirenet.com
KC6WYF via packet at: KC6WYF(at)W6JBT.SOCAL.CA.USA.NOAM
Restoring 1950 Cessna 170A N9948A... Looking forward to RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Grant E. Young" <gyoung(at)crl.nmsu.edu> |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Grant E. Young"
If anybody has any opinions on the King vs. Garmin GPS/COMs I would be
interested in hearing them,
Thanks, Grant-
RV-6 (finishing wiring and engine hookup)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Denny Harjehausen <retflygtiger(at)proaxis.com> |
Subject: | Re: antenna Corrosion |
--> RV-List message posted by: Denny Harjehausen
(Snip)
>I'm certain the corrosion is not battery related. The white powder doesn't
>have the same smell as battery corrosion plus the carpet which covers the
>antenna and is in contact with the corrosion is not effected. The battery is
>a gell cell and is not leaking. I can only assume there is an
>incompatability problem and the antenna may need to be replaced. Help.
(Snip)
First off my qualifications on this subject is nil, I am repeating (again)
what I was told about one of the production aircraft changing over to a
ground return wire to eliminate using the A/C as a grounding source. They
were having joint corrosion problems. Bob Knuckols posted sometime ago that
he didn't see that as much of a problem.
Could that be the reason? I have seen one or two connections with corrosion
while none of the other have any...
It was suggested to me to use "Dielectric Grease on all
connections"......would that help your situation?
Have a Good Day!
Denny
RV-6 (R)N641DH
Fuselage top side
Lebanon, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Mark LaBoyteaux <tailspin(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Subject: | Pitot Heat continued..... |
--> RV-List message posted by: Mark LaBoyteaux
The pitot tube I have is a Cessna type. The battery indicator has been
showing for some time on my voltmeter,so after running down to WalMart
for a new one and making sure the meter was properly zeroed, the heater
element now measures about 2.6 ohms. I decided to do a little
experimenting, and put the tube in my freezer for a couple of hours. The
resistance now checked at 2.5 ohms. So I took my jumper cables and
connected it to the battery in my truck. It pulled 4.9 amps. After about
15 seconds, all of the frost melted. The phone rang. It was some
salesman wanting to clean my ductwork, I said no thanks. I went back to
check on the pitot tube which has now been heating for a few minutes,
and grabed hold of it to see how warm it was. YEEEOOOWW! That sucker was
hot! Now it was pulling about 4.5 amps. I disconnected it, and now it
measured 2.9 ohms. Ops check ok.
Now off to WalMart to get some salve for my fingers.....
Mark "Smokin' Fingers" LaBoyteaux
RV-6A N106RV
tailspin(at)ix.netcom.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | scott.fink(at)Microchip.COM (Scott Fink) |
--> RV-List message posted by: scott.fink(at)Microchip.COM (Scott Fink)
--IMA.Boundary.046591768
I would suggest that you drill for the conduit on the leading edge side of the
spar, thus reducing the number of wires that will have to pass through the
spar. This will also reduce the chance of interference with the control
sticks.
Gary Corde
RV-6 N211GC - NJ
Doesn't this interfere with the fuel tanks?
Scott Fink
RV-6 working on wings
--IMA.Boundary.046591768
SMTP
-0700
(firewall-user@prometheus-gate.Microchip.COM [198.175.253.129]) by
titan.Microchip.COM (8.6.12/8.6.12) with SMTP id SAA24447 for
smap (3.2)
From: aol.com!RV6junkie(at)matronics.com
Date: Mon, 23 Jun 1997 15:13:12 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: RV-List: Wire Runs
--IMA.Boundary.046591768--
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "John B. Abell" <jbabell(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Subject: | More on Instrument Panel Tilt and Gyros |
--> RV-List message posted by: "John B. Abell"
I had lunch at the Santa Maria airport today with Tom Rogers, a Ph.D.
physicist who owns Avionics West, the source of my S-Tec System 50
autopilot and a couple of Bose headsets. I went to visit Tom for two
reasons: (a) to return a turn coordinator to him for modification for
panel tilt correction and (b) to ask him to illuminate the panel tilt
issues we've been discussing recently. I felt the modification was
necessary because the turn coordinator supplied with my system for
installation in a -6A had a sticker on it that said that it was to be
installed only in a vertical instrument panel. The installtion booklet
that came with the system reflected the fact that there was another part
number turn coordinator available with eight degrees of tilt correction.
Thus, I inferred that I had been supplied with the wrong turn
coordinator.
I learned the following. Tom thought that the only advantage in
correcting a turn coordinator for eight degrees of tilt would be the
correction of a very slight error in the indication of rate of turn and
that there was no reliability issue involved. However, he added that
eight degrees of panel tilt would be very troublesome indeed for an
attitude gyro and it should be corrected for in the instrument. Again,
he believed that there was no reliability issue involved. He added that
S-Tec was the only company he knew of that corrected for panel tilt in
turn coordinators. After lunch he called S-Tec to verify what he was
telling me. He learned that S-Tec would be pleased to make the
correction for tilt in my turn coordinator, but that they recently
discontinued making turn coordinators with tilt correction because, as
Tom had surmised, the error was slight. When I asked him what he would
do in my shoes, Tom suggested going ahead with the correction since I
had flown up there to deliver the turn coordinator in the first place
and didn't need it urgently.
This is all I know, boys and girls, except that Leo Davies verified Bill
Benedict's assertion of eight degrees of panel tilt by actual
measurement.
BTW, for those interested in getting some help with their instrument
panels and avionics installations, I would heartily recommend Avionics
West. Tom Rogers knows what he's up to. He can be reached at:
Avionics West, Inc.; 3203 Lightning, Suite 124; Santa Maria, CA 93455.
Phone (805) 928-3601. Fax (805) 928-3603. e-mail avionics(at)avweb.com.
Don't worry; I'm not getting any commission.
Good luck to all.
Jack Abell
RV-6A N333JA (Reserved)
For Leo Davies: Tom wondered which part number turn coordinator you
received. He remembered who referred you.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "John B. Abell" <jbabell(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Subject: | Re: Pitot Heat Resistance |
--> RV-List message posted by: "John B. Abell"
Interesting. I was quoting from the Aircraft Spruce catalog, p. 268,
which specifies the 10 and 20 amps. Determine what wire size you will
use and size the breaker or fuse accordingly.
Jack Abell
RV-6A N333JA (Reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | lottmc(at)datastar.net (Michael C. Lott) |
--> RV-List message posted by: lottmc(at)datastar.net (Michael C. Lott)
While we are on the subject of balancing control surfaces, (I thought I
slid into that rather smoothly), what is the best way to do it, how
close does it have to be, what are the ramifications of not doing it
properly, and since it will be balanced mainly fore and aft, does it
matter if the balancing weight is added only to a side, and not in the
center of the plane being balanced? All answers appreciated. Thanks,
Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | GHLX34A(at)prodigy.com (MR GEORGE T KILISHEK) |
--> RV-List message posted by: GHLX34A(at)prodigy.com (MR GEORGE T KILISHEK)
Frank van der Hulst wrote: "I'm doing the same," (PVC conduit through
wings) " except I'll put my PVC pipe in front of the main
spar. I'll make up a couple of little brackets to hold it between
the
spar and tank. This was recommended to me by Bill Benedict. It
apparently helps solve some wire routing issues in the cockpit."
I'm really dumb, I'll concede, but I can't visualize this. On my
wing, the "Z" brackets which mount the tank preclude any conduit
between the tank and the spar, and there doesn't appear to be room
between the tank and the spar stiffeners for a 7/8" D. PVC pipe.
What am I missing?
George
RV-8 #80006 wings.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: First Flight C-GDOC |
--> RV-List message posted by: John Darby <johnd@our-town.com>
>--> RV-List message posted by: Dr John Cocker
Congratulations.
John Darby RV6 sold
Stephenville TX
johnd@our-town.com
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: engine failure |
--> RV-List message posted by: John Darby <johnd@our-town.com>
>--> RV-List message posted by: Tom Martin
>
I was convinced that we still had partial power, but it was just the
>noise of the engine windmilling.
>This is my second dead stick landing in this aircraft,
Tom; are you trying to proved that practice makes perfect?:-)
Congratulations on a well done.
>From what I remember, the force required to drag one over grass, when you
dragged it over the plowed field, the adrenalin must have still been pumping
strong!!
John Darby RV6 sold
Stephenville TX
johnd@our-town.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Dave Barnhart <barnhart(at)A.crl.com> |
Subject: | Re: Prop Governors |
--> RV-List message posted by: Dave Barnhart
Ron:
>I have a Prop Governor which came off a Twin Commanche which had Lyc. 0-320
>150 fuel injected engines. I would like to install it on my 0-320 D3G 160
>hp. Any ideas on how I could go about finding out if it will work on my
>engine? Should I call Lycoming or Hartzell or someone else. Appreciate
>any ideas. Thanks.
That prop governor is a full-feathering governor. You don't want to use it
on your RV. I know because *my* engine is an IO320-B1A from a Twin
Comanche, and I worked that problem about a year ago.
Best Regards,
Dave Barnhart
rv-6 sn 23744
electrical & avionics installed
engine assembly starts next week
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jim Phillips <jimphil(at)earthlink.net> |
Subject: | Re: engine failure |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jim Phillips
Tom Martin wrote:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Tom Martin
>
> Tonight while flying home from a local flight the engine in my RV-4 quit.
> I love this plane, I have however lost a lot of respect for this engine!
> I have a 180hp I0-360 with a bendix injector, everything stock.
> Tom Martin
> RV-4
Good job on saving yourselves & the plane.
Intresting note, the July issue of Light Plane Maintenance just arrived &
there is a notice about Lycoming IO-360 piston pins failing. The pins
(LW-14077) were from Textron Lycoming and were shipped between December
15, 1995 and September 17, 1996. According to the article, Lycoming
changed vendor suppliers for 1000 pins. To date, only 385 have been
returned for warranty replacement. In the same issue there is concern
that the Superior Air Parts, Inc. pin (SL-13444-1) is also failing.
Failing may be too kind, the picture in the article shows the pin broken
and in two pieces.
The editor of Light Plane Maintenance can be reached at 970-663-9379 or
lpmed(at)frii.com
Jim
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: RV6 Panel mod. |
--> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog(at)aol.com
<< I too have some questions about dimensions for a throttle/mixture/prop
sub-panel. Specifically, I am wondering what's a reasonable center to
center distance between the controls. >>
Randall-
I used 3" centers and my subpanel is 7.5"W x 1.5"H. It seems like a good
feel to me, plenty of room for large hands, yet close enough to get to them
all when you need to.
-GV
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Ian Dadd <gidadd(at)tpgi.com.au> |
Subject: | RTV in control surfaces |
--> RV-List message posted by: Ian Dadd
Hi John,
Had a similar problem with my RV-6 elevators. Paul O'Connor gave me an
invaluable tip. Use short lengths (25mm or 1 inch in old money) of plastic
drinking straw in the trailing edge radius behind the stiffeners. RTV over
the lot. Leave the open ends free of course. Water can't get trapped though
I doubt any will be in the rudder, the elevators are a different matter. I
think someone else has already replied about this. If you have a bit of
trouble getting into the confined space down there use some plastic tubing
- maybe another long straw taped onto the nozzle of the RTV cartridge to
apply the sticky stuff into the trailing edge. Mineral turpentine for
clean-up.
Cheers
Ian - RV-6 Empennage almost completed
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Mark LaBoyteaux <tailspin(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Subject: | Re: Alternator modifications |
--> RV-List message posted by: Mark LaBoyteaux
Tim Lewis wrote:
snip
> Alternator: I need a big alternator (60 A) to run my night/IFR
> electrical load. I have the mounting kit from Van's, which suggests
> a Mazda 323 alternator (65 amps). That's fine, except it has an
> internal regulator. Does anybody have any experience to share on
> either disabling internal regulators or finding automotive
> alternators without internal regualtors?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Tim
> ---------------------
> Tim Lewis
> RV-6AQ #60023
> San Antonio TX
> timrv6a(at)earthlink.net or
> timrv6a(at)iname.com
> -----------------------
Tim & Listers,
I had talked to a local alternator repair shop about modifying my
alternator off of a Mazda 323 to use an external regulator in order to
incorporate overvoltage protection. On the phone the guy said "No
problem". After disassembling the alternator, he said "No way".
Apparently, the brushes are manufactured in assembly with the solid
state regulator, and there was no way to seperate them.
Mark LaBoyteaux
RV-6A fitting cowling & C/S spinner
tailspin(at)ix.netcom.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | JamesCone(at)aol.com |
--> RV-List message posted by: JamesCone(at)aol.com
I have used it to cool my alternator, mags, and fuel pump. It works great.
Jim Cone
jamescone(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | mauser(at)claris.com (Richard Chandler) |
--> RV-List message posted by: mauser(at)claris.com (Richard Chandler)
> I have often wondered if there is much instruction and practice on
> dead stick landings done these days.
My checkride involved a dead stick landing on a little barely marked grass
strip in a valley which I had only seen once before.
Did a pretty good job of it too. And it came at a perfect time. I was able
to get out of the plane and use the portapotty (Man did I need it!). Take-off
was tricky, had to split the difference between short field and soft field
techniques. I then proceeded to really screw up my s-turns over the road, and
I would have failed if I hadn't done an absolutely perfect constant speed
constant altitude 360 degree standard turn (Best one I ever did, the needles
could have been painted on).
--
Richard Chandler
RV-6: Garage bought and being finished, saving for tools and tail kit.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Mark LaBoyteaux <tailspin(at)ix.netcom.com> |
--> RV-List message posted by: Mark LaBoyteaux
For my elevators, I bought the pre-cast weights from Van's. They fit
well, and were easy to install. On my left elevator half with the trim
tab, the weight was just slightly more than required, and I'm leaving it
that way untill I'm finished with the exterior painting. On the right
elevator half, I wound up using a suicide countersink to remove quite a
bit of excess lead in order to get it to balance the same as the left
one.
Mark LaBoyteaux
RV-6A N106RV
fitting cowl & C/S spinner
tailspin(at)ix.netcom.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "W. Tom Glover" <tglovebox(at)bc.sympatico.ca> |
Subject: | Re: Grounding questions |
--> RV-List message posted by: "W. Tom Glover"
Dave Barnhart wrote:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Dave Barnhart
>
> Bob:
>
> >Just found your original about the ground block and
> >solder sleeves. Did we get all your questions answered?
>
> Except one:
> Back to those terminal blocks...
> I have a couple of spots, though, where I could use *something* like that:
>
>....etc......
Greetings, Dave. You were looking for studded terminal blocks for
multiple connections? Well, if you get to your local aircraft parts
supplier you will find them listed as MS27212(ASG) Terminal Board,
Assembly, Molded-in Stud, Electric. They are available with stud sizes
of #6, #8, #10, 1/4", 5/16", and 3/8". These things have a single row of
studs with insulating pylons. There is another style of terminal block,
which I have two of, that are used on some Cessnas that have 6 - 3/16"
male spades under one rivet in a fan pattern. _\!.!/_ kinda like that.
They aren't in my 182 parts books so I'll have to get out to the local
Cessna emporium (real soon now) and see if I can find the part number
again. Good luck on the project. Ain't wiring grand?
Cheers,
Tom Glover
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Frank van der Hulst <frankv(at)pec.co.nz> |
--> RV-List message posted by: Frank van der Hulst
prodigy.com!GHLX34A(at)matronics.com wrote:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: GHLX34A(at)prodigy.com (MR GEORGE T KILISHEK)
>
> Frank van der Hulst wrote: "I'm doing the same," (PVC conduit through
> wings) " except I'll put my PVC pipe in front of the main
> spar. I'll make up a couple of little brackets to hold it between
> the
> spar and tank. This was recommended to me by Bill Benedict. It
> apparently helps solve some wire routing issues in the cockpit."
>
> I'm really dumb, I'll concede, but I can't visualize this. On my
> wing, the "Z" brackets which mount the tank preclude any conduit
> between the tank and the spar, and there doesn't appear to be room
> between the tank and the spar stiffeners for a 7/8" D. PVC pipe.
>
> What am I missing?
I guess the -8 must have a different tank-mount from the -6. I
understand the -4 is also different from the -6.
The -6 has a C-channel doubler on the front of the main spar, so there's
a flange top and bottom facing forward. The tank's rear wall is also a
C-channel, with flanges top and bottom facing backwards. Thus, there's a
gap an inch wide or so through which the conduit can be put. (At least,
I hope there is!)
Frank.
RV-6 #24692, Wings.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Alternator modifications |
<33B0B80A.1D05(at)ix.netcom.com>
From: | wstucklen1(at)juno.com (Frederic W Stucklen) |
--> RV-List message posted by: wstucklen1(at)juno.com (Frederic W Stucklen)
Tim & listers,
Try modifying a Nippon Alternator. It's a very simple process....
Fred Stucklen RV-6A N925RV
wstucklen1(at)juno.com
writes:
>Tim & Listers,
> I had talked to a local alternator repair shop about modifying my
>alternator off of a Mazda 323 to use an external regulator in order to
>incorporate overvoltage protection. On the phone the guy said "No
>problem". After disassembling the alternator, he said "No way".
>Apparently, the brushes are manufactured in assembly with the solid
>state regulator, and there was no way to seperate them.
>
>Mark LaBoyteaux
>RV-6A fitting cowling & C/S spinner
>tailspin(at)ix.netcom.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stephen J. Soule"
And on the same subject ...
I know that my RV-6 ailerons have a heavy water pipe in the nose to
balance them. I don't know how to make sure that the pipe alone is
heavy enough or too heavy. Does anyone in RV land have any advise on
how to check the aileron balance?
Steve
Huntington, Vermont
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Louis E. Smith Jr." <lsmith(at)coastalnet.com> |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Louis E. Smith Jr."
>--> RV-List message posted by: GHLX34A(at)prodigy.com (MR GEORGE T KILISHEK)
>
>Frank van der Hulst wrote: "I'm doing the same," (PVC conduit through
>wings) " except I'll put my PVC pipe in front of the main
>spar. I'll make up a couple of little brackets to hold it between
>the
>spar and tank. This was recommended to me by Bill Benedict. It
>apparently helps solve some wire routing issues in the cockpit."
>
>I'm really dumb, I'll concede, but I can't visualize this. On my
>wing, the "Z" brackets which mount the tank preclude any conduit
>between the tank and the spar, and there doesn't appear to be room
>between the tank and the spar stiffeners for a 7/8" D. PVC pipe.
>
>What am I missing?
>
>George
>RV-8 #80006 wings.
>
George,
The tanks on the RV-4 and RV-6 don't have the "Z" brackets on the rear
baffel. They are connected to the wing just by the screws around the edge
of the tank.
Regards,
Louis Smith
lsmith(at)coastalnet.com
Rocky Mount, NC
RV-8 #80126 N801RV reserved
RV-4 #2844 N102LS sold
(919)937-4905
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | RodWoodard <rodwoodard(at)mcione.com> |
--> RV-List message posted by: RodWoodard
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Grant E. Young"
>
> If anybody has any opinions on the King vs. Garmin GPS/COMs I would be
> interested in hearing them,
>
> Thanks, Grant-
Please post responses to the list on this one. I'm interested too!
Rod Woodard
RV-8, #80033
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Pitot Heat continued..... |
<33B07232.6A38(at)ix.netcom.com>
From: | wstucklen1(at)juno.com (Frederic W Stucklen) |
--> RV-List message posted by: wstucklen1(at)juno.com (Frederic W Stucklen)
Mark,
Your story reminds me of a CFII, whom, while instructing his
student (on the ground) on the need to check the pitot heat,
burned his fingers demonstrating that it was indeed working!
Fred Stucklen RV-6A N925RV
wstucklen1(at)juno.com
writes:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Mark LaBoyteaux
>
>
>The pitot tube I have is a Cessna type. The battery indicator has been
>showing for some time on my voltmeter,so after running down to WalMart
>for a new one and making sure the meter was properly zeroed, the heater
>element now measures about 2.6 ohms. I decided to do a little
>experimenting, and put the tube in my freezer for a couple of hours. The
>resistance now checked at 2.5 ohms. So I took my jumper cables and
>connected it to the battery in my truck. It pulled 4.9 amps. After about
>15 seconds, all of the frost melted. The phone rang. It was some
>salesman wanting to clean my ductwork, I said no thanks. I went back to
>check on the pitot tube which has now been heating for a few minutes,
>and grabed hold of it to see how warm it was. YEEEOOOWW! That sucker was
>hot! Now it was pulling about 4.5 amps. I disconnected it, and now it
>measured 2.9 ohms. Ops check ok.
> Now off to WalMart to get some salve for my fingers.....
>
>Mark "Smokin' Fingers" LaBoyteaux
>RV-6A N106RV
>tailspin(at)ix.netcom.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Denny Harjehausen <retflygtiger(at)proaxis.com> |
Subject: | Panel tilt and gyros |
--> RV-List message posted by: Denny Harjehausen
As I have been reading about this tilt I have been wondering how long the
average RV panel would be in the eight degree position. It seems to me that
it couldn't make much difference. Maybe in something very stable such as a
747 or something of that type. But wouldn't the RVs be moving around to much
to make any difference at all?
Have a Good Day!
Denny
RV-6 (R)N641DH
Fuselage top side
Lebanon, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
--> RV-List message posted by: Mlfred(at)aol.com
<< On the right
elevator half, I wound up using a suicide countersink to remove quite a
bit of excess lead in order to get it to balance the same as the left
one. >>
DOH!
For those who may not have "balanced" this assembly, I would suggest doing
this balance procedure AFTER painting.
Mark, I hope your parts are painted........
Check six!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
--> RV-List message posted by: Craig Hiers <CRAIG-RV-4.@worldnet.att.net>
I need to make a decision reguarding my 0320. I recevied the motor
about three months ago from Eustace Bowhay, my plans were to get the
engine on the plane and get it runing ASAP. As usual my best laid
plans have been shot to hell agian. Now it will be at least three
more months before the motor can be started.
I was told that the motor has preservative oil in it, however if it
does it has very little ( it does not show on the dip stick ).
What should I do, if anything to make sure there is no internal
pitting, rusting, or whatever.
The humidity here in Florida is very high right now and I feel I
should do something.
Any ideas would be of great help.
Craig Hiers
RV-4 N143CH
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Boris <smbr(at)digital.net> |
--> RV-List message posted by: Boris
If the surface dose not twist it should not matter that the balance
weight is not in the center. As a note, the purpose of balancing is to
avoid control surface flutter. I was recently told that when flutter
occurs, say on an aileron, the wing is twisting and with a non-balanced
surface, the tendancy is for the surface to accentuate the twist, or
flutter, due to inertia. So, it is better for the aileron to be nose
heavy so that any oscillation will have a dampening effect.
Michael C. Lott wrote:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: lottmc(at)datastar.net (Michael C. Lott)
>
> While we are on the subject of balancing control surfaces, (I thought I
> slid into that rather smoothly), what is the best way to do it, how
> close does it have to be, what are the ramifications of not doing it
> properly, and since it will be balanced mainly fore and aft, does it
> matter if the balancing weight is added only to a side, and not in the
> center of the plane being balanced? All answers appreciated. Thanks,
> Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Robert Acker <r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com> |
--> RV-List message posted by: Robert Acker
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Grant E. Young"
>
>If anybody has any opinions on the King vs. Garmin GPS/COMs I would be
>interested in hearing them,
>
>Thanks, Grant-
Grant, panel-mount or handheld gps/com's?
I've been researching panel mounts, and the Garmin GNC250XL has a *much*
richer feature set and screen in comparison to the King KLN-135A, at about
the same price. However, Garmin's database updates cost twice those of
King's :( .
Rob Acker / r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com / RV-6Q
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Robert Acker <r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Subject: | Re: Pitot Heat Resistance |
--> RV-List message posted by: Robert Acker
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry D. Hoatson"
>
>> The spec sheet for the 12-volt AN5812 I installed this weekend claims 4.5
>> amps. So, should I size up the wire & breaker for 5 or 10 amps?
>> Rob Acker / r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com / RV-6Q
>
>Hello Rob,
>Do you have a copy of AC 43.13? It has the wire size information for a
>given load and length of run - then I usually go 1 size larger.
Larry,
Sorry, I don't think I made my point clear.
Everything I have read about the 12-volt AN5812 in the archives and current
discussion indicates it requires 10 amps. The documentation that I received
with my AN5812 indicates 4.5 amps.
Which one is right? Which load do I size the wire/breaker for?
>How's the bird coming? Was Bakersfield worth the trip? Sorry we missed you.
>Larry
To all listers I heartily recommend the Bakersfield fly-in. I learned more
there about what I want to do, and what I don't want to do, with my RV
during construction than two visits to sun'n'fun! I also got to meet a few
listers face to face!
Great bunch, very helpful and knowledgeable, and willing to share it.
Rob Acker / r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com / RV-6Q
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | less_drag(at)juno.com (JAMES E AYERS) |
--> RV-List message posted by: less_drag(at)juno.com (JAMES E AYERS)
writes:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Stephen J. Soule"
(Snip)
>Does anyone in RV land have any advise on
>how to check the aileron balance?
>
>Steve
>Huntington, Vermont
Hello Steve and all,
Hang the PAINTED aileron upside down by the two hinges.
The trailing edge should be higher than the leading edge in this
position.
BTW, the assembled aileron will fall over from almost any position you
try to set, or stand, it, so find a place to store them for there own
protection.
Jim Ayers
Less_Drag(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Robert Acker <r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Subject: | Re: Pitot Heat continued..... |
--> RV-List message posted by: Robert Acker
>--> RV-List message posted by: Mark LaBoyteaux
>
>The pitot tube I have is a Cessna type...YEEEOOOWW! That sucker was
>hot! Now it was pulling about 4.5 amps. I disconnected it, and now it
>measured 2.9 ohms. Ops check ok.
> Now off to WalMart to get some salve for my fingers.....
>Mark "Smokin' Fingers" LaBoyteaux
Mark,
I guess that answers my question regarding the load of a 12-volt AN5812, 4.5
amps. Thanks for saving *my* fingers .
Rob Acker / r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com / RV-6Q
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | steve(at)barnardaircraft.com (barnardaircraft) |
Subject: | BAC RV-6A, Rocky Mtn. Fly-In |
--> RV-List message posted by: steve(at)barnardaircraft.com (barnardaircraft)
For those of you interested, Barnard Aircraft's RV-6A, N157ST with
numerous speed mods,
which include the "Holy Cowl", for 200 Hp installations, cooling plenum,
wing tips, root fairings, new gear leg fairings and new wheel pants will be
at the Rocky Mountain Fly-In at Longmont, Colorado on June 28, 1997 which
is a Saturday. I will be spending sometime at the airplane for those of
you have questions about RV clean up for speed and efficiency. Note: It's
easier to install speed mods as you build the airplane, compared to working
on a completed airplane.
I will be arriving at Longmont Airport on Friday evening and will put the
airplane in Mike Willis's hangar. See you there.
Respectfully,
Steve Barnard
Barnard Aircraft Components
RV-6A N157ST 1000 hrs flying
steve(at)barnardaircraft.com
http://www.barnardaircraft.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "John B. Abell" <jbabell(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Subject: | Re: Panel tilt and gyros |
--> RV-List message posted by: "John B. Abell"
I think it does matter with the attitude gyro if you ever reach up to
center the little "airplane" on your artificial horizon. The question
is whether you want the artificial horizon in the center of the window
when you're straight and level, right?
Jack Abell
RV-6A N333JA (Reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Subject: | Re: Panel tilt and gyros |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer
This has been said before but I will say it again as there still seems
to be allot of questions on this topic. The ONLY reason you need
the eight degree tilt is so the little adjustable airplane that moves up
and down can be lined up with the horizon line. When you fly in
level flight and the instrument is tilted this moves your horizon
indicator line up.
Jerry Springer RV-6 N906GS First flight July 14, 1989 :-) Hillsboro, OR
jsflyrv(at)ix.netcom.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | RodWoodard <rodwoodard(at)mcione.com> |
--> RV-List message posted by: RodWoodard
Hello all:
I'm considering the purchase of a Smith Miniplane that's located in
Hayward, California (near San Francisco). The price seems reasonable and I
need to hook up with somebody who's qualified to do a pre-buy inspection.
I'm hoping to find somebody who's experienced with experimentals and fabric
covered airplanes. I'll of course be willing to compensate this person for
his time.
On the off-chance that anyone might be familiar with the airplane, I'd love
to hear from you. It belongs to Bob Taylor and it's painted in a US Navy
pattern. It's a basic VFR bi-plane about the size of a Pitts S-1.
I apologize if this non-rv-related post offends anyone. This is just such
an incredible nationwide resource that I can't think of any other means
which would be more effective in my search. Please reply to me via direct
e-mail to save any additional clutter to the list. My address is
rodwoodard(at)mcione.com
Thanks in advance!
Rod Woodard
RV-8, #80033 [Maybe a Smith Miniplane in the meantime]
Loveland, Colorado
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
Subject: | Re: Pitot Heat Resistance |
--> RV-List message posted by: randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson)
> Everything I have read about the 12-volt AN5812 in the archives and current
> discussion indicates it requires 10 amps. The documentation that I received
> with my AN5812 indicates 4.5 amps.
>
> Which one is right? Which load do I size the wire/breaker for?
My documentation for the same pitot says 6.4 to 8A. I will probably use
a 10A breaker and 16 ga wire. I got the wire size not from any fancy
calculations but instead from looking at Nuckolls' diagrams, which show
16 ga wire on a 10A breaker for a position light circuit.
Randall Henderson, RV-6
randall(at)edt.com
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jerry Prado (Excell Data)" <v-jerryp(at)microsoft.com> |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jerry Prado (Excell Data)"
Another thing to consider is that you can not update the King 135 via an
internet connection like you can with their 90 series. You are forced to
use a floppy or send the cartridge in (they send you one first). Talk to
people that have used the floppy method. It's touchy.
I think that Trimble has the best software in terms of useability.
However, Trimble has fallen behind in display technology. Even their
approach certified offerrings rely on a two line LED display.
Additionally, they don't offer a GPS/COM.
I've used a KLN90 extensively and one of the things I did not like about
it is that it REQUIRES altitude input before doing anything. It did not
have a 3d mode. I don't know if the 135 shares this requirement but I
would hate to loose my GPS if my encoder fails.
Jerry Prado
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Robert Acker [SMTP:ix.netcom.com!r.acker(at)matronics.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, June 25, 1997 8:41 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: gps/com
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Robert Acker
>
> >--> RV-List message posted by: "Grant E. Young"
> >
> >If anybody has any opinions on the King vs. Garmin GPS/COMs I would
> be
> >interested in hearing them,
> >
> >Thanks, Grant-
>
> Grant, panel-mount or handheld gps/com's?
>
> I've been researching panel mounts, and the Garmin GNC250XL has a
> *much*
> richer feature set and screen in comparison to the King KLN-135A, at
> about
> the same price. However, Garmin's database updates cost twice those
> of
> King's :( .
>
> Rob Acker / r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com / RV-6Q
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Keith Warfield <KeithW(at)ncgwpc.syntellect.com> |
--> RV-List message posted by: Keith Warfield
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | JDaniel343(at)aol.com |
Subject: | re:rivet squeezer |
--> RV-List message posted by: JDaniel343(at)aol.com
The phone number for Bill Williams Tool Co., Fort Worth, TX is
1-817-838-2601.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Denny Harjehausen <retflygtiger(at)proaxis.com> |
--> RV-List message posted by: Denny Harjehausen
>I was told that the motor has preservative oil in it, however if it
>does it has very little ( it does not show on the dip stick ).
>What should I do, if anything to make sure there is no internal
>pitting, rusting, or whatever.
>The humidity here in Florida is very high right now and I feel I
>should do something.
>Any ideas would be of great help.
>
>Craig Hiers
>RV-4 N143CH
>
I was told to fill it up completely, the man said completely, and turn the
whole engine over once a month....
Have a Good Day!
Denny
RV-6 (R)N641DH
Fuselage top side
Lebanon, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Grant E. Young" <gyoung(at)crl.nmsu.edu> |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Grant E. Young"
oooops, I was talking about hand-held GPS/Coms....sorry about that.
grant-
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)navix.net> |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bob Skinner
>I was told that the motor has preservative oil in it, however if it
>does it has very little ( it does not show on the dip stick ).
>What should I do, if anything to make sure there is no internal
>pitting, rusting, or whatever.
>The humidity here in Florida is very high right now and I feel I
>should do something.
>Any ideas would be of great help.
>
>Craig Hiers
>RV-4 N143CH
Craig,
I had a local welder build me an engine stand before I overhauled my
engine. After overhaul, I left the engine bolted to the stand and put
dehydrator (?) plugs in a spark plug hole in each cylinder. I went to the
local pharmacists and obtained a bunch of packets of silica gel and taped
them to the engine and then put two clear, plastic bags over the engine and
secured the bags at the prop flange with duct tape. I did this in the
winter when it was dry and I think I ended up drying the plugs and packets
of silica gel a couple of times. If I were to do it over again, I would
hook a shop vac up to the bag and suck as much air out as I could.
When I bolted the engine on, it stayed in my air-conditioned shop in which
I also ran a de-humidifer and I ended up drying the plugs six or seven times
over a 1 1/2 years, or so.
Bob Skinner
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Denny Harjehausen <retflygtiger(at)proaxis.com> |
Subject: | Re: Panel tilt and gyros |
--> RV-List message posted by: Denny Harjehausen
The ONLY reason you need
>the eight degree tilt is so the little adjustable airplane that moves up
>and down can be lined up with the horizon line. When you fly in
>level flight and the instrument is tilted this moves your horizon
>indicator line up.
>
Ah Ha...I see what you all have been talking about...I was thinking
reliablity here.
Looking in ACS Sigma Tek shows a choice at a much higher price...RC Allen
doesn't mention a choice. Has anyone purchased any other Horizon with this
8 degree choice.
Have a Good Day!
Denny
RV-6 (R)N641DH
Fuselage top side
Lebanon, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | lm4(at)juno.com (Larry Mac Donald) |
--> RV-List message posted by: lm4(at)juno.com (Larry Mac Donald)
On Tue, 24 Jun 1997 19:19:36 (Michael C. Lott) writes:
While we are on the subject of balancing control surfaces, (I thought I
slid into that rather smoothly),
what is the best way to do it?
I can't tell you. I only have plans for a 6.
how close does it have to be?
IMO--Close.
what are the ramifications of not doing it properly?
Death. In the several texts that I have read, the designers mention that
you cannot have an imbalance of the control surfaces or you will have
flutter. Then they go into pilot talk about flutter will bring about some
destruction of parts or a poor flying envelope. I think that may mean
( Re: Molt Taylor ) that the aileron will destroy itself and rip the wing
off along with it.
and since it will be balanced mainly fore and aft, does it
matter if the balancing weight is added only to a side, and not in the
center of the plane being balanced?
I don't know.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Wanted to buy: RV-4/rv 4 for sale |
--> RV-List message posted by: JMJN01(at)aol.com
Thank you. I saw his add in Trade-a-plane last month.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stephen J. Soule"
The trailing edge is level with the nose on both of my unpainted
ailerons. Should I add lead to the water pipe?
Steve
Huntington, Vermont
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stephen J. Soule"
The trailing edge is level with the nose on both of my unpainted
ailerons. Should I add lead to the water pipe?
Steve
Huntington, Vermont
PS, I hang the ailerons from the ceiling when I'm not using them 'cuz
they do fall easily!
________________________________________________________________________________
--> RV-List message posted by: Glenn & Judi <flyers@anet-chi.com>
I am in the panel planning stages of my RV-6 project. I would like to
set the aircraft up for LIGHT IFR. IFR GPS, Loc/GS, Marker Beacon etc.
I have flown in an RV-6, but not on instruments. How does the RV-6
handle on instruments? As far as the panel goes, IFR vs. VFR, should I
or shouldn't I? Any thoughts on the matter are appreciated.
How much does it cost per year to keep the typical IFR GPR updated?
Thanks in advance,
Glenn Gordon
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: first flight |
--> RV-List message posted by: AlexMSl(at)aol.com
To Les Vaughan
RV-6 C-FYQD
Congratulations of the first flight. I know the feeling. I've had it twice
and watched two others land with the RV GRIN.
Alex Sloan
RV-6 N626BA
130 Hours.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jeremy William Benedict <jbenedic(at)uofport.edu> |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jeremy William Benedict
> --> RV-List message posted by: dougm(at)mailhost.physio-control.com (Doug Medema)
> P.S. Sure would be nice if VANS would get the whole
> parts catalog on their web page. Hint, Hint!
Yeah, it sure would be nice. ;-)
I just happen to be working on a few "minor" additions to the Van's web
site and am looking for a few people to help out. Basically, I just would
like a few more eyes to look over some of the additions to help proof
them out.
If you would like to help out, and have a spare hour or two in the next
couple of days, please send me an e-mail to:
jbenedic(at)uofport.edu
Just, whatever you do, DON'T hit the reply key, and PLEASE DO NOT reply to
the rv-list if you would like to preview, just send it to my address......
Thanks!
Jeremy :-) :-)
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
| name://Jeremy Benedict | PP-ASEL (1994) [R/E: TD,HP] |
|email://jbenedic(at)uofport.edu | Logged: RV-4,-6,-6A,-6B,-6T |
| http://wally.uofport.edu/~jbenedic| Cessna 150, 182 |
|voice://503.514.3100 pager/vmail | TT: 303.6 hrs TT-RV: 164.6 hrs |
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle 510-606-1001) |
--> RV-List message posted by: dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle 510-606-1001)
This is a test message.
Matt
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
510-606-1001 Voice | 510-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
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________________________________________________________________________________
From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle 510-606-1001) |
Matt is testing.
Matt Dralle
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
510-606-1001 Voice | 510-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle 510-606-1001) |
Subject: | |