RV-Archive.digest.vol-jj
September 27, 2000 - October 03, 2000
Try...
Enparts (ask for Eileen)
700 Ferris Rd
Lancaster, Texas
972-227-0086
Very good used parts at a good price. They have helped me many times.
Bryan Jones -8 765BJ
-----Original Message-----
| From: | Jerry Springer [mailto:jsflyrv(at)teleport.com] |
Sent: Wednesday, September 27, 2000 6:23 AM
| Subject: | Re: Intake tubes |
Jim Sears wrote:
>
>
> >I need 3 ea of a part number 74084W intake tube for a
> >Lycoming 0320. Would prefer used.
>
> sounds like you're getting closer. You might try Mattituck if you don't
> find used ones. I've gotten my parts from them cheaper than other
> places.
>
> Jim
>
Another good place to try for used ones is Wentworth.
JSpringer
________________________________________________________________________________
Thread-Topic: RV-List: vortex generators
Thread-Index: AcAogEAE1/4WMH84QFS5ISCvF+w9dQAEGovQ
| From: | "Bob Japundza" <Bob.Japundza(at)realmed.com> |
| Subject: | vortex generators |
Listers,
I have to agree with Jim on this subject. My -6's full-stall attitude
compared to the 3-point attitude on the ground is much higher. I gave
up on doing full-stall landings as the tailwheel would hit first and
wreak havoc, also the sink-rate is pretty high. For me, I can grease it
on now doing wheel landings (tail-low) carring some power, even though I
eat up a bit more runway. I think the VG's could benefit a nosewheel
airplane, however.
Bob Japundza
RV-6 N244BJ O-360C/S flying 42 hours
>Is someone developing the gear leg MOD to take advance of the higher
angle of
>attack to land at 45 mph?
>
>Jim Ayers
>RV-3 N47RV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV8bldr" <RV8bldr(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Paint Troubleshooting Chart |
Listers:
Anyone new to serious painting (as I am) may be interested in a
troubleshooting chart on Sherwin Williams web site. It addresses generic
problems (runs, blushes, orange peel, etc.) with causes, fixes, and
preventative measures. It is not SW product specific. Downloadable .pdf
file, complete with pictures of the offending condition. Takes a few minutes
to download (around 730k) then save locally and use offline.
See http://www.sherwin-automotive.com/pdf/sw_tsg.pdf
Russ Christopher
SoCAL High Desert
RV-8 Emp
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | Gear leg length was: vortex generators |
"Van Artsdalen, Scott"
Has Van's increased the length of the main gear legs? I just put my -4 up
on the gear last weekend and it looks very nose high at this point.
Although, it may squat down more once the weight of the engine and prop have
been added.
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Japundza [mailto:Bob.Japundza(at)realmed.com]
Sent: Wednesday, September 27, 2000 8:31 AM
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: RV-List: vortex generators
I have to agree with Jim on this subject. My -6's
full-stall attitude
compared to the 3-point attitude on the ground is much
higher. I gave
up on doing full-stall landings as the tailwheel would hit
first and
wreak havoc, also the sink-rate is pretty high. For me, I
can grease it
on now doing wheel landings (tail-low) carring some power,
even though I
eat up a bit more runway. I think the VG's could benefit a
nosewheel
airplane, however.
Bob Japundza
RV-6 N244BJ O-360C/S flying 42 hours
>Is someone developing the gear leg MOD to take advance of
the higher
angle of
>attack to land at 45 mph?
>
>Jim Ayers
>RV-3 N47RV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV8bldr" <RV8bldr(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Paint Troubleshooting Chart |
Listers:
Anyone new to serious painting (as I am) may be interested in a
troubleshooting chart on Sherwin Williams web site. It addresses generic
problems (runs, blushes, orange peel, etc.) with causes, fixes, and
preventative measures. It is not SW product specific. Downloadable .pdf
file, complete with pictures of the offending condition. Takes a few minutes
to download (around 730k) then save locally and use offline.
See http://www.sherwin-automotive.com/pdf/sw_tsg.pdf
Russ Christopher
SoCAL High Desert
RV-8 Emp
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Builder's Bookstore" <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: vortex generators |
"Builder's Bookstore"
When I do my comparison flight before and after installing the VGs, I'll use
the GPS as a backup speed indicator. I know this won't be an exact number,
but may give a rough indication as to whether the stall speed is actually
lower, or if only the indicated speed has changed from the high angle of
attack.
Andy
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV Building Pert Chart |
09/27/2000 03:16:22 PM
Sam, can't find the pert chart/list on the URL you listed. I'm thinking a
classical PERT time line/list like I used in MBA school. Is there another
meaning to PERT I am not aware of......? Program Evaluation & Review
Technique......
Sam Buchanan (at)matronics.com on 09/25/2000 10:11:06 AM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com; Please respond to Sam Buchanan
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV Building Pert Chart
Charles,
Let me suggest you spend some time with my construction log. Even though
I built a RV-6, the construction sequences will be similar and you will
get an overview of what gets built when.
The pert list will not really be necessary until you get to the
finishing stage. The airframe construction is rather straight forward
and you basically just follow the instructions and plans regardless of
the individual tweaks you will add later. I well remember the eagerness
with which I approached my project and the desire to get everything
"nailed down" at the onset of construction. However, you can't do it.
Too many options will be presented to you between now and the conclusion
of the project, many of which have not even hit the market yet! Just get
started building, continue your research as you build, and everything
will fall into place as you go.
Here is the URL:
http://home.HiWAAY.net/~sbuc/journal/rv6.html
Good luck with your project!
Sam Buchanan
"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
==========================
"Charles L. Cotton" wrote:
>
>
> RV'ers:
>
> I'm in the process of setting up to build an RV-9A (purchase tools,
prepare
> shop, etc.) and am trying to plan ahead as much as possible. Many
> decisions, preliminary at least, have been made concerning the panel,
> engine, prop, even the paint type and color. The project will go much
> smoother if the "I should have done it differently," or "I never thought
of
> that" moments are kept to a minimum.
>
> I decided to start a pert chart to remove as many surprises from the
> building process as possible. With pen and paper, I started listing the
> things I thought were the various decisions/acquisitions that should be
> made at certain times to avoid delays. Then I realized this was truly
like
> the blind leading the blind. I haven't built an RV before, so I'm hardly
> qualified to create this list, at least not beyond the fairly obvious
items
> none of us needed to reduce to writing.
>
> This is where the experienced builders can help us all, not just those of
> us who are working on the empennage. You don't have to be flying your RV
to
> contribute. Your experiences will benefit anyone who is not quite as far
> along in their project. (Remember the old joke, you don't have to be able
> to out run the bear, just your buddy?) There are other sources for
> construction tips such as the Frank Justice's Supplemental Instructions
and
> Bunny's Guide to RV Building, so I'm thinking more along the lines of
> decisions that should be made by a certain point in construction. As an
> example, I don't know what I want to do about wing tips and I thought I
> didn't have to worry about it, until well into the wing kit. However,
I've
> seen the threads on the wing tips with the landing lights and like that
> better than cutting the leading edge of the wing. However, the wing tips
> I've seen appear to require that I have the tail light in the rudder,
> because the wing tip strobe does not appear like it will be visible from
> the rear. Thus, I need to make a decision about the wing tips even before
I
> buy the first kit! This is the type of delay/problem we all would like to
> avoid.
>
> If there is any interest, I would be happy to collect all
> responses/suggestions and post them on my web page under the title "RV
> Builders Pert Chart." A proposed organizational format tracking the order
> in which kits are purchased would be:
>
> General - For pre-construction matters/suggestions, or those not directly
> related to any particular stage of construction;
>
> Empennage Kit - (May be further subdivided into H. Stab., elevator; S.
> Stab., rudder
>
> Wing Kit - (May be further subdivided into fuel tanks, lights, ailerons,
> wing tips, etc.)
>
> Fuselage Kit - (Further subdivision is virtually limitless)
>
> Finishing Kit - (I don't know enough about finishing kits to say any
more!)
>
> What do you think folks?
>
> Regards,
> Chas.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "skybolt-aviator" <skybolt-aviator(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: vortex generators |
"skybolt-aviator"
If the airspeed reads lower they must be doing something as I don't see how
they could affect the reading to airspeed. Generators on top of wing,pitot
on bottom.
Ollie&Lorene Washburn
RV6-A,N795LW,@FD77.
O-360,180HP,C/S,300+hrs.
----- Original Message -----
From: <ENewton57(at)AOL.COM>
Sent: Wednesday, September 27, 2000 9:34 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: vortex generators
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Gear leg length was: vortex generators |
09/27/2000 03:27:36 PM
Yes, sorta. Vans changed the length & angle of the later RV-4 gear. The net
effect of the geometry change is...the RV-4 sits at a higher (2 inch I
think) stance then the older gear. It allows a (more) full stall landing
attitude and looks sexier which, I'm sure, was why Vans made the
change.......
svanarts(at)unionsafe.com@matronics.com on 09/27/2000 01:16:36 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com; Please respond to
svanarts(at)unionsafe.com
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: RV-List: Gear leg length was: vortex generators
Has Van's increased the length of the main gear legs? I just put my -4 up
on the gear last weekend and it looks very nose high at this point.
Although, it may squat down more once the weight of the engine and prop
have
been added.
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Japundza [mailto:Bob.Japundza(at)realmed.com]
Sent: Wednesday, September 27, 2000 8:31 AM
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: RV-List: vortex generators
I have to agree with Jim on this subject. My -6's
full-stall attitude
compared to the 3-point attitude on the ground is much
higher. I gave
up on doing full-stall landings as the tailwheel would hit
first and
wreak havoc, also the sink-rate is pretty high. For me, I
can grease it
on now doing wheel landings (tail-low) carring some power,
even though I
eat up a bit more runway. I think the VG's could benefit a
nosewheel
airplane, however.
Bob Japundza
RV-6 N244BJ O-360C/S flying 42 hours
>Is someone developing the gear leg MOD to take advance of
the higher
angle of
>attack to land at 45 mph?
>
>Jim Ayers
>RV-3 N47RV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
This is one of those wonderful FARs than can be interpreted so many
ways that you can make it say anything you want. Our engines are
approved for continuous operation at 100% power, so would we use that
for "maximum cruising speed"? Should we use the altitude that gives
us maximum TAS, or the one that gives us maximum CAS? Common sense
would seem to indicate we consider 75% power, as that is certainly
the industry practice for max normal cruise power. I'm not sure what
altitude we need to use to show compliance, so I'll cover both
extremes.
Bill's calculation for max CAS at 75% power at 8,000 ft agrees with
what I got, using the exact conversions. 162 kt CAS. It'll get
lower as we go to higher altitudes.
We will get higher CAS at the same power, as we decrease the
altitude. At sea level, Van quotes a max speed of 222 mph, or 193 kt
TAS. Speed varies with the cube root of power. So, at sea level we
would expect 175 kt TAS at 75% power. At sea level, standard day,
TAS = CAS. So, our max CAS will never exceed 175 kt with 75% power,
unless we have a particularly low drag aircraft.
I vote for the small N numbers for you lucky Yanks. I think I'm
stuck with the big ones up here in Canada. The good news is that I
have a couple of years to read the regs before I need to worry about
it.
Take care,
Kevin Horton RV-8 (misc fuselage stuff)
Ottawa, Canada
http://members.nbci.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html
>
>I found this in the archives from Tim Bronson --
>
>"The highest cruise speed listed in my Van's brochure is 210 MPH at 8000'
>for the 200hp RV-8 prototype. According to my old, warped whiz-wheel, 210
>mph TAS = 183 kts TAS at 8000' on a standard day. 183 kts TAS converts to
>about 162 kts CAS. Using these figures, derived on an old CR-5 by an even
>older guy, it would appear that we have about 19 knots worth of speed mods
>to do before we exceed 180 KCAS and need the big numbers. "
>
>Any thoughts on this? I'd like to put 3" numbers on my 180 hp RV-8.
>
>- Bill in Tucson
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Mike Robertson <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com>
>To: rv8list(at)egroups.com ; rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
>Date: Tuesday, September 26, 2000 8:11 PM
>Subject: RV-List: "N" Numbers
>
>
>>
>>Folks,
>>
>>I would like to do a little survey here if you wouldn't mind. This is
>>entirely UN-official and for my use only.
>>
>>This is mostly for the RV-8's with the 200 HP engine but all replies would
>>be appreciated. Please give your model type and engine HP with your reply.
>>
>>What size "N" numbers have you all put on your completed aircraft??
>>
>>The reason I am asking is that FAR 45.29(b)(iii) calls out 3 inch numbers
>>unless the maximum cruising speed exceeds 180 Knots CAS (207mph). The
>>performance numbers on Van's web page are showing the max cruise speed at
>>way over the 207 mph mark. Which leads to my second question.
>>
>>On the RV-8 and -8A's what are your performance numbers atr 55%, 65%, 75%,
>>and wide open???
>>
>>Thanks for the replies and sorry if this offends anybody.
>>
>>Mike Robertson
> >RV-8A
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Gear leg length was: vortex generators |
The early -4s had shorter main gears. The -4's gear is pretty
flexible, so I would expect it'll sit quite a bit lower as you add
more dollars to the nose section.
Kevin Horton RV-8 (misc fuselage stuff)
Ottawa, Canada
http://members.nbci.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html
>
>Has Van's increased the length of the main gear legs? I just put my -4 up
>on the gear last weekend and it looks very nose high at this point.
>Although, it may squat down more once the weight of the engine and prop have
>been added.
>
>--
>Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
>Network Administrator
>Union Safe Deposit Bank
>209-946-5116
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Bob Japundza [mailto:Bob.Japundza(at)realmed.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, September 27, 2000 8:31 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV-List: vortex generators
>
>
>
>
> I have to agree with Jim on this subject. My -6's
>full-stall attitude
> compared to the 3-point attitude on the ground is much
>higher. I gave
> up on doing full-stall landings as the tailwheel would hit
>first and
> wreak havoc, also the sink-rate is pretty high. For me, I
>can grease it
> on now doing wheel landings (tail-low) carring some power,
>even though I
> eat up a bit more runway. I think the VG's could benefit a
>nosewheel
> airplane, however.
>
> Bob Japundza
> RV-6 N244BJ O-360C/S flying 42 hours
>
>
> >Is someone developing the gear leg MOD to take advance of
>the higher
> angle of
> >attack to land at 45 mph?
> >
> >Jim Ayers
> >RV-3 N47RV
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: OSWEGO NY RV FORUM and FLY-IN |
I will be flying in from Buffalo, can you please tell me the best time to
arrive?
Thanks
Tracy
RV 8 tail almost done
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "C J Heitman" <cjh(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Vinyl in QB Gas Tank |
This may be another good reason to etch and alodine the tank parts. It would
become quite obvious if you left the plastic on.
Chris Heitman
Dousman WI
RV-9A N94ME (reserved)
waiting for fuselage
http://www.execpc.com/~cjh/rv9a.html
-----Original Message-----
<<
A local builder reported that he discovered vinyl covering still adhered to
the inside of his 6A QB wing tank (one of two). He sent it back to Van's
for repair. I offer this as a head's up to other QB builders as this is
potentially dangerous. >>
The heads up to all builders....Van's reported that non-QB builders have
also
done it.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: vortex generators |
| From: | Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com |
09/27/2000 04:11:29 PM
It's my understanding that depending on the pitot tube design the effective
accuracy may be greatly compromised at airspeeds of under 50 mph. I
understand that the standard Van's suggested stainless tubing model is
particularly susceptible to this problem. It has to do with the angle at
which the air passes over the opening to the tubing. Pitot tubes used in
scientific instrumentation for measuring wind speed for environmental
contamination use a much more aerodynamic design that minimizes error at
lower air speeds and improves the accuracy dramatically.
Just another fly in the ointment.
- Jim Andrews
RV-8A ( FWF )
O-360 Sensenich 85
N89JA reserved
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com |
09/27/2000 04:44:47 PM
Has anyone heard about avionics software for this new GPS module? It's
called the iGPS-180. It's a 12 channel GPS on a chip. The entire assembly
is about the size of an Oreo. It's being marketed for the Palm V but I
understand it's available for small palm tops as well. Price is under
$100.
http://www.helpcity.com/CAWalnut/shoppingideas/pharos/default.htm
The world is shrinking.
- Jim Andrews
RV-8A ( FWF )
O-360 Sensenich 85
N89JA reserved
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)mari.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Leading edge |
Jim:
Not sure I am familiar with the unit that you are referring to, but the
Anywhere Pilot moving map system by Controlvision (www.controlvision.com)
that is geared for the new PDA's like the Casio Cassiopeia unit uses a GPS
unit by Garmon, the unit designation eludes me at the moment, that is a
little smaller than your computer's mouse. It can also use most other gps
units, handhelds included.
Saw the Anywhere Pilot unit at OSH this summer and was very impressed with
functions as well as price. My plan, however, is to wait on the purchase
part of it until I am ready for instruments (in who knows how many years!)
and allow the progress of technology to march on. Each time I look at the
Anywhere Pilot software, as with any software, there have been major
improvements. There have also been improvements in the hardware.
Pretty cool stuff!
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A
Organizing shop to start on fuse
Peshtigo, WI
-----Original Message-----
From: Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com <Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com>
Date: Wednesday, September 27, 2000 5:10 PM
Subject: RV-List: Leading edge
>
>Has anyone heard about avionics software for this new GPS module? It's
>called the iGPS-180. It's a 12 channel GPS on a chip. The entire assembly
>is about the size of an Oreo. It's being marketed for the Palm V but I
>understand it's available for small palm tops as well. Price is under
>$100.
>
>http://www.helpcity.com/CAWalnut/shoppingideas/pharos/default.htm
>
>The world is shrinking.
>
>- Jim Andrews
>RV-8A ( FWF )
>O-360 Sensenich 85
>N89JA reserved
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV Building Pert Chart |
pcondon(at)csc.com wrote:
>
>
> Sam, can't find the pert chart/list on the URL you listed. I'm thinking a
> classical PERT time line/list like I used in MBA school. Is there another
> meaning to PERT I am not aware of......? Program Evaluation & Review
> Technique......
I didn't say there was a PERT on the URL I listed.
Sam Buchanan
=========================
> Sam Buchanan (at)matronics.com on 09/25/2000 10:11:06 AM
>
> Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com; Please respond to Sam Buchanan
>
>
> Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com, "Charles L. Cotton"
> cc:
>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: RV Building Pert Chart
>
>
> Charles,
>
> Let me suggest you spend some time with my construction log. Even though
> I built a RV-6, the construction sequences will be similar and you will
> get an overview of what gets built when.
>
> The pert list will not really be necessary until you get to the
> finishing stage. The airframe construction is rather straight forward
> and you basically just follow the instructions and plans regardless of
> the individual tweaks you will add later. I well remember the eagerness
> with which I approached my project and the desire to get everything
> "nailed down" at the onset of construction. However, you can't do it.
> Too many options will be presented to you between now and the conclusion
> of the project, many of which have not even hit the market yet! Just get
> started building, continue your research as you build, and everything
> will fall into place as you go.
>
> Here is the URL:
>
> http://home.HiWAAY.net/~sbuc/journal/rv6.html
>
> Good luck with your project!
>
> Sam Buchanan
> "The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
>
> ==========================
>
> "Charles L. Cotton" wrote:
> >
>
> >
> > RV'ers:
> >
> > I'm in the process of setting up to build an RV-9A (purchase tools,
> prepare
> > shop, etc.) and am trying to plan ahead as much as possible. Many
> > decisions, preliminary at least, have been made concerning the panel,
> > engine, prop, even the paint type and color. The project will go much
> > smoother if the "I should have done it differently," or "I never thought
> of
> > that" moments are kept to a minimum.
> >
> > I decided to start a pert chart to remove as many surprises from the
> > building process as possible. With pen and paper, I started listing the
> > things I thought were the various decisions/acquisitions that should be
> > made at certain times to avoid delays. Then I realized this was truly
> like
> > the blind leading the blind. I haven't built an RV before, so I'm hardly
> > qualified to create this list, at least not beyond the fairly obvious
> items
> > none of us needed to reduce to writing.
> >
> > This is where the experienced builders can help us all, not just those of
> > us who are working on the empennage. You don't have to be flying your RV
> to
> > contribute. Your experiences will benefit anyone who is not quite as far
> > along in their project. (Remember the old joke, you don't have to be able
> > to out run the bear, just your buddy?) There are other sources for
> > construction tips such as the Frank Justice's Supplemental Instructions
> and
> > Bunny's Guide to RV Building, so I'm thinking more along the lines of
> > decisions that should be made by a certain point in construction. As an
> > example, I don't know what I want to do about wing tips and I thought I
> > didn't have to worry about it, until well into the wing kit. However,
> I've
> > seen the threads on the wing tips with the landing lights and like that
> > better than cutting the leading edge of the wing. However, the wing tips
> > I've seen appear to require that I have the tail light in the rudder,
> > because the wing tip strobe does not appear like it will be visible from
> > the rear. Thus, I need to make a decision about the wing tips even before
> I
> > buy the first kit! This is the type of delay/problem we all would like to
> > avoid.
> >
> > If there is any interest, I would be happy to collect all
> > responses/suggestions and post them on my web page under the title "RV
> > Builders Pert Chart." A proposed organizational format tracking the order
> > in which kits are purchased would be:
> >
> > General - For pre-construction matters/suggestions, or those not directly
> > related to any particular stage of construction;
> >
> > Empennage Kit - (May be further subdivided into H. Stab., elevator; S.
> > Stab., rudder
> >
> > Wing Kit - (May be further subdivided into fuel tanks, lights, ailerons,
> > wing tips, etc.)
> >
> > Fuselage Kit - (Further subdivision is virtually limitless)
> >
> > Finishing Kit - (I don't know enough about finishing kits to say any
> more!)
> >
> > What do you think folks?
> >
> > Regards,
> > Chas.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: All Electric : Battery size/Duel alternators |
>
> I'm going all electric also with dual B&C alternators and will be using an
> Odyssey (Hawker) PC625. It's a 17ah battery that weighs 13.3 lbs and cost
> $100. The salesman said it's almost identical to the PC680 that Van's
sells
> for $160 but is a little lighter with slightly less reserve capacity. Got
> it from Batteries Plus in Oregon. I'm not flying yet so can't give you
any
> performance history.
I just bought a 18 amp-hour RG battery from Batteries Plus for $59.99,
weighs 13.85 lbs. Xtreme Plus model (theirs), XP 12-18. Same physical size
as the Panasonic lc-rd1217p and lc-x1220p batteries.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
6A O360, Airflow, CS
may fly in '01
------ http://USFamily.Net/info - Unlimited Internet - From $7.99/mo! ------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Austin" <6430(at)axion.net> |
| Subject: | Crossing The Rocks |
I live on the West Coast and would like to some day go East and South and
visit a bunch of RV guys.
From Seattle to San Diego, at which point would any of you recommend to
cross the rocks ?
Gary Sobek may know this, or any of the guys from Van's who have had to make
the trip many times.
I would really appreciate the advice.
Austin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JDaniel343(at)AOL.COM |
I was looking for a Ford voltage regulator but the people at the auto elec.
repair service was if I needed and "A circuit" or "B circuit" regulator. Can
someone give me a clue as to what they are talking about.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sally and George" <aeronut58(at)hotmail.com> |
Glenn Gordon wrote: While cleaning out my wallet I found an FCC restriced
radiotelephone
> operators permit . Since I don't remember when or where I got this,
> perhaps someone can tell me if I need it for anything "flying" related.
> If not, what is it for?
Glenn:
At one time, anyone operating a radio transmitter in an aircraft (and in
certain other radio services) was required to have this license in their
possession...it was one of the credentials (like the registration
certificate) which was a "go/no-go" item for flight. That requirement was
dropped some time ago...at least 10 years, maybe 15 or 20. I found one not
too long ago which was issued to me as a Civil Air Patrol cadet in 1950. It
was green and grungy and I pitched it out.
I don't think you'll need yours for anything, but it might make a good
"antiquities" item for your scrapbook.
George Kilishek
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Harrill <KHarrill(at)osa.state.sc.us> |
"'Robert L. Nuckolls, III'"
| Subject: | Re: All Electric on a Budget Questions |
Bob,
One other question regarding Figure Z-8 and the relay between th SD-8
dynamo and the battery bus:
Does placing this relay in the circuit not make the battery a single
point of failure for the entire electrical system? I understand that
the relay is needed for the OV module, but isn't there some way to
configure the circuit to take advantage of the fact that the SD-8 does
not need the battery to function?
Ken Harrill
RV-6, electrical system soon.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | vortex generators |
| From: | Scott R McDaniels <smcdaniels(at)juno.com> |
From: AV8TURDON(at)AOL.COM
Subject: Re: RV-List: vortex generators
>Upon Making an approach and landing who cares what the Calibrated
airspeed
>is. You only read indicated. And if you used to stall at 55 and now at
45
>then I would say that's all we need to know.
-
I would agree with you if your only goal was to see a high enough change
in stall speed to make you feel like you got your moneys worth relative
to the cost of the kit.
Personally, If I am buying something that claims a 10 MPH reduction in
stall speed, then thats what I want (I do not know if that is a
advertised claim). What Kevin was trying to point out (though I think
you did not quite understand it) is that a 10 MPH reduction in
"indicated" stall speed could only be netting you a 4 MPH reduction in
actual stall speed. I don't know about you, but just having an airspeed
indicator reading lower (with out knowing if it is valid) would not make
me feel any better when I am about to force land out in the rocks
somewhere.
The main point is that airspeed performance #'s are very hard to test
accurately with out special equipment.
The fact that the test subject RV-4's stall #'s matched those quoted by
Van could just be coincidence. It is very possible that for numerous
unknown reasons, that particular RV's stall speeds are actually 5 MPH
higher than the published figures but because of airspeed indicator -
pitot/static error it's indicated values seem to match the published
figures.
NOTE- - - I am not saying that this is the case. I have no way of
knowing.
I do know from experience (just like Kevin) that it is very possible.
In simple terms...If someone were to give me 1/2 the money that a V.G.
kit costs I can make your airplane read 10 miles per hour at stall
without sticking anything on the wing.
Disclaimer-
This post is meant in no way to imply that V.G.'s on any RV have no
effect in performance/stall speeds. I only mean to point out that many
performance claims (and results seen by customers) are not always what
they appear to be.
>Were not going to the Moon here.
>This is a basic airplane not an F-22 or the like so lets keep the
parameters
>the in the same arena. There's always someone out there trying to show
how
>smart they are and impress the rest with information that means nothing
to
>this class of aircraft. I plan to install them if the numbers prove to
hold
>up after this person tries the sytem. Besides seat of the pants flying
will
>never be out. This airplane does tell you when it needs more speed.
>A rebutal is yours.
-
I am hoping this is going to be a dicussion to clarify some
information... not a debate.
Scott McDaniels
North Plains, OR
These opinions and ideas are my own and may not
reflect the opinions or ideas of my employer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
According to the Zeftronics people in an article in the last issue of the
B-C Contact...
There are two basic types of charging system and voltage regulator: the
type A and the type B. The type A regulator excites the field of the
alternator by providing controlled ground to one side of the alternator
field. The other side of the alternator field must be connected to a
protected power source like the over voltage relay. The type B regulator
excites the field of the alternator by providing controlled power to one
side of the alternator field. The other side of the alternator field must
be grounded.
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
----- Original Message -----
From: <JDaniel343(at)AOL.COM>
Sent: Wednesday, September 27, 2000 7:15 PM
Subject: RV-List: voltage reg
>
> I was looking for a Ford voltage regulator but the people at the auto
elec.
> repair service was if I needed and "A circuit" or "B circuit" regulator.
Can
> someone give me a clue as to what they are talking about.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Haan <bhaan(at)easystreet.com> |
| Subject: | Garmin 295 flush mounted |
I flush mounted the Garmin 295 in the radio stack. For a picture go to
http://www.easystreet.com/~bhaan/
Bob
****************************
Bob Haan
Home 503-579-2729
Bob's Mobile 503-720-1132
Sherry's Mobile 503-720-6211
Home Office 503-579-3675
mailto:bhaan(at)easystreet.com
mailto:shaan(at)easystreet.com
****************************
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | RV-8 F820 - fwd side skins |
I'm starting to skin my RV-8 fuse. I have the fwd floor drilled and
clecoed, and am happy with how it turned out. But...the F820, forward side
skins, don't align as well as I would like with the firewall and upper/lower
longerons. I'm thinking the most critical to align with is the lower
longeron (F843) and the firewall as these in turn align the center section
and gear boxes. So, I'd like to "move" as much of the misalignment to the
upper longeron (F887). This will later be covered up with the fwd top skin.
Is this relatively sound thinking? What have others done here? I've
checked all measurements, plumbs and squares several times over. I've also
memorized Kevin Horton's advice in this area (Thanks!).
Thx,
Larry Bowen
RV-8, Advance, NC
Email: Larry(at)BowenAero.com
Web: http://BowenAero.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM |
I am in the process of riveting (1/8) the reinforcement plates on the rear
wing spar. In doing so I have a few rivets that are very difficult to get to
especially the outboard plate up near the top of the spar where the spar
flange over hangs. Down near the inboard area where the thick
flanges/doublers are-the rivets came out great. Is it permissible to go with
a structural pop rivet in the other (middle&outboard plates) locations?? I am
not wanting to use pop rivets to attach the entire reinforcement plates, just
a couple at the top? I am not familiar with structural pops other than what i
have read here. Thoughts......????? Thanx, Bob in Ark doin wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Crossing The Rocks |
--- Austin <6430(at)axion.net> wrote:
>
> I live on the West Coast and would like to some day
> go East and South and
> visit a bunch of RV guys.
> From Seattle to San Diego, at which point would any
> of you recommend to
> cross the rocks ?
> Gary Sobek may know this, or any of the guys from
> Van's who have had to make
> the trip many times.
> I would really appreciate the advice.
> Austin
Austin:
The easiest way from SoCAL east is to fly from the LA
Basin east toward Prescott, Winslow, Santa Fe, and
Albuquerque. The 10,000 foot mountains around LA are
the only high points to cross. Another way from SoCAL
is toward Las Vegas, Salt Lake City, and then East.
Both of these routes are low enough that you will not
need Oxygen and can be flown at 9,500.
I have not flown directly over (across east -
west)Colorado. Most of my flying has been around
Colorado. Both north and south. South Dakota,
Wyoming, and Idaho are beautiful. So is Arizona and
New Mexico. I do wish to fly to Leadville but have
not had PERFECT weather on any of my trips east.
I am starting to plan a 3 week trip to Alaska for next
summer. Hope to see a little bit of Canada in the
process. At the present time, it appears that 3 or 4
RVs be taking this trip.
====
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
698+ Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.tripod.com
Yahoo! Photos - 35mm Quality Prints, Now Get 15 Free!
http://photos.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 56 Msgs - 09/27/00 |
Try wentworth at 1800 4wentworth. Ask for Steve or Dave.
Jim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rivet Question |
--- Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM wrote:
>
> I am in the process of riveting (1/8) the reinforcement plates on the
> rear
> wing spar. In doing so I have a few rivets that are very difficult to
> get to
> especially the outboard plate up near the top of the spar where the
> spar
> flange over hangs. Down near the inboard area where the thick
> flanges/doublers are-the rivets came out great. Is it permissible to
> go with
> a structural pop rivet in the other (middle&outboard plates)
> locations??
Correct pop (or pulled) rivets are nearly always an acceptable
replacement. Witness the several aircraft which are assembled with
nothing _but_ pulled rivets!
The only thing lost is appearance and accumulated drag on an outside
skin.
Some folks boast that their aircraft doesn't have a single pop rivet in
it - a testimony to their craftsmanship/cleverness (and I don't know
_how_ they did it!) but definitely not the norm.
Pop away!
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Fuselage (and thinking of pulled rivets in some of the #%
&%*
tailcone
locations!)
Yahoo! Photos - 35mm Quality Prints, Now Get 15 Free!
http://photos.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Hawkins <lhawkins(at)giant.com> |
"'Gary A. Sobek'"@matronics.com
| Subject: | Crossing The Rocks |
If you pass through southern Colorado or Northern New Mexico, stop at
Farmington,NM (FMN) look me up I would love to see your RV's and show you
mine (project). I'm in the book.
Thanks, Larry Hawkins
-----Original Message-----
From: Gary A. Sobek [mailto:rv6flier(at)yahoo.com]
Sent: Thursday, September 28, 2000 12:53 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Crossing The Rocks
--- Austin <6430(at)axion.net> wrote:
>
> I live on the West Coast and would like to some day
> go East and South and
> visit a bunch of RV guys.
> From Seattle to San Diego, at which point would any
> of you recommend to
> cross the rocks ?
> Gary Sobek may know this, or any of the guys from
> Van's who have had to make
> the trip many times.
> I would really appreciate the advice.
> Austin
Austin:
The easiest way from SoCAL east is to fly from the LA
Basin east toward Prescott, Winslow, Santa Fe, and
Albuquerque. The 10,000 foot mountains around LA are
the only high points to cross. Another way from SoCAL
is toward Las Vegas, Salt Lake City, and then East.
Both of these routes are low enough that you will not
need Oxygen and can be flown at 9,500.
I have not flown directly over (across east -
west)Colorado. Most of my flying has been around
Colorado. Both north and south. South Dakota,
Wyoming, and Idaho are beautiful. So is Arizona and
New Mexico. I do wish to fly to Leadville but have
not had PERFECT weather on any of my trips east.
I am starting to plan a 3 week trip to Alaska for next
summer. Hope to see a little bit of Canada in the
process. At the present time, it appears that 3 or 4
RVs be taking this trip.
====
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
698+ Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.tripod.com
Yahoo! Photos - 35mm Quality Prints, Now Get 15 Free!
http://photos.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 F820 - fwd side skins |
>
>I'm starting to skin my RV-8 fuse. I have the fwd floor drilled and
>clecoed, and am happy with how it turned out. But...the F820, forward side
>skins, don't align as well as I would like with the firewall and
>upper/lower
>longerons. I'm thinking the most critical to align with is the lower
>longeron (F843) and the firewall as these in turn align the center section
>and gear boxes. So, I'd like to "move" as much of the misalignment to the
>upper longeron (F887). This will later be covered up with the fwd top
>skin.
>
>Is this relatively sound thinking? What have others done here? I've
>checked all measurements, plumbs and squares several times over. I've also
>memorized Kevin Horton's advice in this area (Thanks!).
>
>Thx,
>
>Larry Bowen
>RV-8, Advance, NC
Larry,
This is indeed a tricky area. I just spent some time with Mike Talovich on
this very section. The skins should be used to justify the structural
alignment and to verify that all your measurements are correct. Spend the
time to get everything right on the money. The lower longerons that you
have to bend and twist are most likely where any misalignment is coming
from. Mike and I fine tuned these several times to get the floor pan
sitting exactly level and square with the firewall and the 804 bulkhead.
The upper longerons should not show any difference in how they fit the skins
as long as there is ZERO preload on them in order to nest against the
firewall corner weldments.
Take the time to get it all right here. This is a critical area and lots of
stuff hinges upon it...gear box fit, baggage door, etc. I'd say you are
very close to having it ready to go. They key here is symmetry; you want
boths sides looking like a mirror image of the other. If the rivet lines on
the upper longerons/side skins aren't perfectly centered, and off by just a
sixteenth inch or so, it should be OK. Any more than that should be
corrected.
There ya have it. My .02 worth.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
Time to go put an RV grin on a coworker's face. :)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: All Electric on a Budget Questions |
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
>
>Bob,
>
>One other question regarding Figure Z-8 and the relay between th SD-8
>dynamo and the battery bus:
>
>Does placing this relay in the circuit not make the battery a single
>point of failure for the entire electrical system? I understand that
>the relay is needed for the OV module, but isn't there some way to
>configure the circuit to take advantage of the fact that the SD-8 does
>not need the battery to function?
>
>Ken Harrill
>RV-6, electrical system soon.
Most alternators, the SD-8 included, need a battery on
line for acceptable performance. For the SD-8 it's an
issue of noise. The critter is single phase and quite
noisey. Battery failure is not a concern if one conducts
routine preventative maintenance. Even with dual alternators,
I would run a capacity check on the battery every six months
after a year's service and replace it when it drops to 80%
of new. Even if you run the battery into the ground for
capacity, it's not likely to fail in a way that takes the
alternator down. Shorted cells don't happen in RG batteries.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Leading edge |
| From: | Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com |
09/28/2000 09:06:59 AM
Jeff: I too have checked out the Controlvision stuff. I really like the
idea of having a palm device in the cockpit. I have been a palm five user
for about 1.5 years now and am most impressed with its capabilities The
only thing that bums me is the fact that you really need to download the
moving map database a small section at a time before you head out to the
airport. I like the fact that with my GPS-195 I can go anywhere I like
without having to hook up to a PC. This is a double edged sword however
since the database info in my Garmin is over a year old now. With the palm
top GPS the data can be refreshed conceivably off of a website which would
make it a lot more current. Especially if someone decides to erect a tower
in the middle of my favorite flight path.
I think for now I will probably just have a unit for the pax to view. This
way I can try out the technology and keep my pax (wife) happy at the same
time :-)
- Jim Andrews
RV-8A (FWF)
O-360 Sensenich 85
N89JA reserved
"Jeff Orear" on 09/27/2000 06:03:05 PM
cc:
Subject: Re: RV-List: Leading edge
Jim:
Not sure I am familiar with the unit that you are referring to, but the
Anywhere Pilot moving map system by Controlvision (www.controlvision.com)
that is geared for the new PDA's like the Casio Cassiopeia unit uses a GPS
unit by Garmon, the unit designation eludes me at the moment, that is a
little smaller than your computer's mouse. It can also use most other gps
units, handhelds included.
Saw the Anywhere Pilot unit at OSH this summer and was very impressed with
functions as well as price. My plan, however, is to wait on the purchase
part of it until I am ready for instruments (in who knows how many years!)
and allow the progress of technology to march on. Each time I look at the
Anywhere Pilot software, as with any software, there have been major
improvements. There have also been improvements in the hardware.
Pretty cool stuff!
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A
Organizing shop to start on fuse
Peshtigo, WI
-----Original Message-----
From: Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com <Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com>
Date: Wednesday, September 27, 2000 5:10 PM
Subject: RV-List: Leading edge
>
>Has anyone heard about avionics software for this new GPS module? It's
>called the iGPS-180. It's a 12 channel GPS on a chip. The entire
assembly
>is about the size of an Oreo. It's being marketed for the Palm V but I
>understand it's available for small palm tops as well. Price is under
>$100.
>
>http://www.helpcity.com/CAWalnut/shoppingideas/pharos/default.htm
>
>The world is shrinking.
>
>- Jim Andrews
>RV-8A ( FWF )
>O-360 Sensenich 85
>N89JA reserved
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DWENSING(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Vinyl in QB Gas Tank |
In a message dated 9/27/00 6:23:25 PM Central Daylight Time, jorear(at)mari.net
writes:
<<
Actually, I am a bit surprised that this has been a problem, as it is
recommended that the areas on the inner side of the tank skins that will
make contact with the ribs and rear baffle be thoroughly scuffed to increase
adhesion of the tank sealant. Doing this will shred the vinyl, or at least
present itself as a different "feel" while scuffing. FWIW.
>>
What happens is that the contact areas are stripped of the vinyl during
assembly and the remaining vinyl is forgotten.
Dale Ensing Cary Illinois
RV-6A O-360 (finishing details)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
>I was looking for a Ford voltage regulator but the people at the auto elec.
>repair service was if I needed and "A circuit" or "B circuit" regulator. Can
>someone give me a clue as to what they are talking about.
Tell them you're wanting a "Standard VR166" which is a generic
replacment for a Motorcraft GR-540B. You can see a picture of
this regulator in Figure Z-2 of our power distribution downloads
on the website. If it LOOKS like this part, it IS the right part.
All of the 14v regulators in this package are interchangeable.
The "a" versus "b" has to do with the way the field is wired
inside the alternator . . . it might be significant if Ford
had ever used both. Your request for a regulator for a 1980's
Ford should have produced the right part.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg Yotz" <gyachts(at)kans.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Leading edge |
The Control Vision software does load the entire North America, Canada,
Mexico, Hawaii in the unit all at once. And they give database updates via
the web right now and it is updated every 28 days. The good thing about the
Pocket PC and Palm units are, when you leave the airport they are good for
something else. Your investment isn't sitting in the cockpit when your not
flying. And Jim, the Pharos unit you asked about does work with their
software. There is a guy in Dallas, Tx that is using it that I know of for
sure.
Greg
>
> Jeff: I too have checked out the Controlvision stuff. I really like the
> idea of having a palm device in the cockpit. I have been a palm five user
> for about 1.5 years now and am most impressed with its capabilities The
> only thing that bums me is the fact that you really need to download the
> moving map database a small section at a time before you head out to the
> airport. I like the fact that with my GPS-195 I can go anywhere I like
> without having to hook up to a PC. This is a double edged sword however
> since the database info in my Garmin is over a year old now. With the
palm
> top GPS the data can be refreshed conceivably off of a website which would
> make it a lot more current. Especially if someone decides to erect a
tower
> in the middle of my favorite flight path.
>
> I think for now I will probably just have a unit for the pax to view.
This
> way I can try out the technology and keep my pax (wife) happy at the same
> time :-)
>
> - Jim Andrews
> RV-8A (FWF)
> O-360 Sensenich 85
> N89JA reserved
>
>
> Jim:
>
> Not sure I am familiar with the unit that you are referring to, but the
> Anywhere Pilot moving map system by Controlvision (www.controlvision.com)
> that is geared for the new PDA's like the Casio Cassiopeia unit uses a GPS
> unit by Garmon, the unit designation eludes me at the moment, that is a
> little smaller than your computer's mouse. It can also use most other gps
> units, handhelds included.
>
> Saw the Anywhere Pilot unit at OSH this summer and was very impressed with
> functions as well as price. My plan, however, is to wait on the purchase
> part of it until I am ready for instruments (in who knows how many years!)
> and allow the progress of technology to march on. Each time I look at the
> Anywhere Pilot software, as with any software, there have been major
> improvements. There have also been improvements in the hardware.
>
> Pretty cool stuff!
>
>
> Regards,
>
> Jeff Orear
> RV6A
> >
> >Has anyone heard about avionics software for this new GPS module? It's
> >called the iGPS-180. It's a 12 channel GPS on a chip. The entire
> assembly
> >is about the size of an Oreo. It's being marketed for the Palm V but I
> >understand it's available for small palm tops as well. Price is under
> >$100.
> >
> >http://www.helpcity.com/CAWalnut/shoppingideas/pharos/default.htm
> >
> >The world is shrinking.
> >
> >- Jim Andrews
> >RV-8A ( FWF )
> >O-360 Sensenich 85
> >N89JA reserved
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
| Subject: | Re: All Electric on a Budget Questions |
Bob,
Thanks so much. I am still pondering the architecture. I was looking
through the wire book you supply with your seminar and found oune that
showed a duel feed essential bus. The essential bus is feed by two separate
alternators with diodes to keep the flow going into the essential bus and
not out. I like this. Maybe you can comment on this system. It is the
same as your "mother of all" system except for the duel feed essential bus.
Now some other questions:
> The SD-8 is a limited output device and the goal was to maximize
> its utility in case the main alternator quits.
I don't understand what you mean by this. The SD-8 is limited to an output
of 8-10 amps but should not be limited in its reliability. Since its main
wear is taking place already due to the fact that it is always being driven
by the gear mechanism, having its output put to use should not decrease its
reliability when the main alternator quits. Why can't it be used all the
time?
> If we're down to
> the SD-8 as the engine driven power source, then I don't want
> to waste 1/8th of it's output holding a battery contactor closed.
I agree, which is why I would suggest hooking it up directly to its own
bus....maybe the essential buss only.
> The architecture shown is intended to MAKE SURE that you get to
> the airport of intended destination.
My only suggested change is to utilize the electricity being generated by
the SD-8 anyway. How does this decrease reliability?
> No, the main alternator should be a minimum of 130% of total
> max continuous loads for the airplane
I wasn't aware of this rule of thumb. Why is this?
. >The SD-8 runs only
> when the big guy is compromised.
Again, why?
> Ross, you're certainly free to wire and operate your
> airplane in any manner you wish. I would only caution that
> the diagrams we publish are based on a lot of failure modes
> effects analysis and a goal to maximize performance and
> dependability while reducing system complexity, weight,
> cost and installation time. My recommendation is that
> you utilize figure Z-8 as published.
I will probubly do this but I want to know WHY I am doing it.
Thanks again.
Ross
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DWENSING(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Leading edge |
In a message dated 9/28/00 9:44:53 AM Central Daylight Time,
skybolt-aviator(at)email.msn.com writes:
<< I bought the Anywhere map hardware at S&F and it was a waste of money.Also
i bought the Casio color PDA which they recommend.The main problem is that
with all the light in RV cockpit the Casio screen completely blanks out
ie:can't see it.They say to surround it with a shield but who wants to do
that.Best to get a Garman 295 or wait for new color Lowrance GPS. >>
Thank you very much for the info. Have been wondering about that and no store
would allow me to bring one out into the sunlight and turn it on.
Dale Ensing 6A O-360 C/S
finishing details
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6160hp(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | DISCOUNT PARTS at EAA 486 RV Forum |
HUGH DISCOUNTS for attendee's
YES once again due to the generousity and support of Wicks and Aircraft Spruce.........
There will be a catalog discount order desk set up at EAA 486's RV Forum SATURDAY
for attendee's only, and ran by yours truly. So look me up, fill out a x-mas
wish list all day and in the end I'll fax them in for our individual hugh savings!
There are many catalog offerings marked down at 10% for many parts across the board
and 20% even 30% discounts on select big ticket items! DON'T MISS IT scan
your catalogs now, make a list now come prepared!!!!
WX FORCAST IS LOOKING GREAT!
See ya 9/30/2000 @ KFZY
Not manditiory to pre-register....just show up now...so what if it cost a buck
or to more....its worth it...!
Respectfully
David McManmon
OLD MESSAGE
See you there......
6th Annual Northeast RV Forum
September 30 - October 1, 2000
Oswego County Airport Fulton NY
KFZY
Just a Quick note on the RV-List inviting people to the RV-Forum and
Fly-in.
Link our web site:
http://www.web-flight.com/486/eaarvforum.htm
<http://www.web-flight.com/486/eaarvforum.htm>
Please just c'mon and show up now!!!!
As in the past got lots of things planned.
Hope to see you there
Respectfully
David McManmon
N58DM RV6 85+ hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)mindspring.com> |
> My apologies to those of you who live in the various intemperet zones to
> whom Seasons tend to blend into one.
And our appologies will follow come about January when you're snowed in and
the earth looks brown and grey. We will appologize for the clear blue sunny
warmth that we have to endure, for having to taxi with the canopy open, for
having to wear sunblock and shades, for not knowing where the cabin heat
lever is.
Ah yes, the terrible tragedy it is to live in a place where the leaves don't
change much....but then I'll take a fluffy white cloud drifting in a clear
blue sky with green grass under my wheels on a February morning over an
orange leaf any day. :-)
Bill
Orlando
-4 wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 F820 - fwd side skins |
Larry,
I would echo Brian's comments. I think this is the most critical area in the
entire fuselage because it is the foundation everything else is built on. If
you are off just a little bit here think of what that error becomes by the
time it gets back 20 feet to the tail.
Also, be sure and triple check your jig in every direction. Getting the jig
straight/perpendicular in every respect, and bending the longerons perfectly
as Brian describes in my opinion are the two most critical things. If you do
those you should have perfect alignment of the firewall, the uppper & lower
longerons, and the F820s. I know this all seems confusing and you're anxious
to move on, but spend the time here.
Here's the moral to the story: I didn't get it right here, proceeded anyway,
and ended up pretty much starting over on my fuse. I spent $350 on
replacement skins an other parts, and completely rebuilt my jig (that I had
bought from someone else who had NOT built it properly).
Randy Lervold
RV-8, #80500, still sanding, sanding, sanding, and more sanding.
www.rv-8.com
> >I'm starting to skin my RV-8 fuse. I have the fwd floor drilled and
> >clecoed, and am happy with how it turned out. But...the F820, forward
side
> >skins, don't align as well as I would like with the firewall and
> >upper/lower
> >longerons. I'm thinking the most critical to align with is the lower
> >longeron (F843) and the firewall as these in turn align the center
section
> >and gear boxes. So, I'd like to "move" as much of the misalignment to
the
> >upper longeron (F887). This will later be covered up with the fwd top
> >skin.
> >
> >Is this relatively sound thinking? What have others done here? I've
> >checked all measurements, plumbs and squares several times over. I've
also
> >memorized Kevin Horton's advice in this area (Thanks!).
> >
> >Thx,
> >
> >Larry Bowen
> >RV-8, Advance, NC
>
>
> Larry,
>
> This is indeed a tricky area. I just spent some time with Mike Talovich on
> this very section. The skins should be used to justify the structural
> alignment and to verify that all your measurements are correct. Spend the
> time to get everything right on the money. The lower longerons that you
> have to bend and twist are most likely where any misalignment is coming
> from. Mike and I fine tuned these several times to get the floor pan
> sitting exactly level and square with the firewall and the 804 bulkhead.
> The upper longerons should not show any difference in how they fit the
skins
> as long as there is ZERO preload on them in order to nest against the
> firewall corner weldments.
>
> Take the time to get it all right here. This is a critical area and lots
of
> stuff hinges upon it...gear box fit, baggage door, etc. I'd say you are
> very close to having it ready to go. They key here is symmetry; you want
> boths sides looking like a mirror image of the other. If the rivet lines
on
> the upper longerons/side skins aren't perfectly centered, and off by just
a
> sixteenth inch or so, it should be OK. Any more than that should be
> corrected.
>
> There ya have it. My .02 worth.
>
> Brian Denk
> RV8 N94BD
> Time to go put an RV grin on a coworker's face. :)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Garmin 295 flush mounted |
> I flush mounted the Garmin 295 in the radio stack. For a picture go to
>
> http://www.easystreet.com/~bhaan/
>
> Bob
Yo Bob,
Looks wonderful, but the pic alone won't do anyone any good. HOW did you
mount it? I flush mounted my Garmin Pilot II by splitting the case, very
precisely fabricating an aluminum mounting plate that then got sandwiched in
when the halves were screwed back together (thanks to Bob Japundza for the
longer screws!).
Inquiring minds want to know,
Randy Lervold
RV-8, #80500, cowling
www.rv-8.com
________________________________________________________________________________
Thread-Topic: RV-List: Leading edge
Thread-Index: AcApaCD8e2H4LN5/TMenVv6BlO5l0gAACq6Q
| From: | "Bob Japundza" <Bob.Japundza(at)realmed.com> |
I considered the Anywhere map package to use on my HP Jornada 540 pda,
but the pda is just about useless outside since the screen gets very
hard to read. The software looks good, however, as I have a friend that
flies with it in his C-150. The wing makes for a nice sunshade. So, if
there are any pda's out there that work well in direct sunlight I think
the pda/anywhere combo could work well.
Bob Japundza
RV-6 N244BJ O-360C/S flying 42 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg Yotz" <gyachts(at)kans.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Leading edge |
You haven't seen the Compaq Ipaq Pocket PC in direct sunlight then. Because
it knocks the socks off the Garmin 295. The more sunlight the better.
Casio was the best then but now the Ipaq answers all the questions and
problems.
Greg
>
> Thank you very much for the info. Have been wondering about that and no
store
> would allow me to bring one out into the sunlight and turn it on.
> Dale Ensing 6A O-360 C/S
> finishing details
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John B. Abell" <jbabell(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Crossing The Rocks |
Hi Austin,
There's a northern route from Seattle via V2 that will get you across "the
rocks" without taking you over 11,000 IFR or 11,500 VFR. V2 goes from SEA to
BIL. At BIL you're over the rocks and can continue southeast at lower
altitudes.
There's a southern route that's generally lower, not nearly as pretty, and has
the same maximal altitudes from Los Angeles to West Texas: LAX V165 V208 V458
V66 V94 V198 V16 INK. Gary's V12 route has the same maximal altitudes, but is
generally higher.
If you're interested in other starting points or waypoints, let me know. It's
tough to get from PDX or SFO to, say, DFW without the need for oxygen if you're
on airways, but I suppose there are ways that are less than direct, more rocks,
too: the Sierras and the Rockies.
If you would rather wander around off airways, you just need a few sectionals
and a good GPS.
Best wishes,
Jack Abell
Austin wrote:
>
> I live on the West Coast and would like to some day go East and South and
> visit a bunch of RV guys.
> >From Seattle to San Diego, at which point would any of you recommend to
> cross the rocks ?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
I originally posted this to both the rv-list and the rv8list. It came out
fine on the rv8list but for some reason most of my posts to the RV-list do
not seem to be making it. Hopefully this one will. I will post the results
and reasons behind this after a few days.
Folks,
I would like to do a little survey here if you wouldn't mind. This is
entirely UN-official and for my use only.
This is mostly for the RV-8's with the 200 HP engine but all replies would
be appreciated. Please give your model type and engine HP with your reply.
What size "N" numbers have you all put on your completed aircraft??
The reason I am asking is that FAR 45.29(b)(iii) calls out 3 inch numbers
unless the maximum cruising speed exceeds 180 Knots CAS (207mph). The
performance numbers on Van's web page are showing the max cruise speed at
way over the 207 mph mark. Which leads to my second question.
On the RV-8 and -8A's what are your performance numbers at 55%, 65%, 75%,
and wide open???
Thanks for the replies and sorry if this offends anybody.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A N809RS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bcbraem(at)home.com |
| Subject: | Re: Gear leg length |
Bob--
I realize that this would be a money issue for you, at this point, but
for others that don't have the gear installed on their -6, the titanium
HRII gear legs (a little over 2" longer) fit the -6 engine mount in the
same fashion as the standard gear. They let me do 3-pointers in the
Super Six and the cowling view during taxi is not bad (I'm 6 feet,
even). And they DO look sexier. Two drawbacks: Tight fitting gear leg
fairings are not as flexible as the titanium gear and as I built up 150+
hrs. I started getting cracks in the middle section of the fairings.
Tracy Saylor (built the original fairings) was kind enough to get his
daughter's company (Powell RV Products) to build a new set of fairings
with elongated diamond patches between the normal fiberglass layers.
Also, titanium is "springy" and until you get used to them you can
dazzle your hangar mates with your impression of a grasshopper on a hot
tin runway.
TeamRocket should also be a source of longer mains for the -6 and the
fairings they make are "fatter" (don't fit as tight) than Saylor's.
>
>
> Listers,
>
> I have to agree with Jim on this subject. My -6's full-stall attitude
> compared to the 3-point attitude on the ground is much higher. I gave
> up on doing full-stall landings as the tailwheel would hit first and
> wreak havoc, also the sink-rate is pretty high. For me, I can grease it
> on now doing wheel landings (tail-low) carring some power, even though I
> eat up a bit more runway. I think the VG's could benefit a nosewheel
> airplane, however.
>
> Bob Japundza
> RV-6 N244BJ O-360C/S flying 42 hours
>
> >Is someone developing the gear leg MOD to take advance of the higher
> angle of
> >attack to land at 45 mph?
> >
> >Jim Ayers
> >RV-3 N47RV
>
> 0
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "<Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com> |
(Content Technologies SMTPRS 2.0.15) with SMTP id
for" ;
Thu,
28 Sep 2000 14:02:35.-0400(at)matronics.com
28 Sep 2000 14:02:35.-0400(at)matronics.com
Thought I'd dump a rumor on you guys. A friend of mine with a very fast RV6, was
talking to another very reputable builder with a very, very fast RV6 and he said
Van told him that the 150hp RV9 goes as fast as an RV6 with same HP. The reason
being that the trailing edges of the control surfaces are flat like a Cessenas
and this greatly reduces drag. Seems Mr. very, Very fast RV6 was on his way to
build him a set. This person shall remain nameless, at least until you see flat
trailing edges on his control surfaces. My little mind was boggled by this.
Does this seem feasable? Uh, Kevin?
Please, discuss amongst yourselves.
Eric Henson
Fuse Crap
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg Tanner" <gtanner(at)bendcable.com> |
Greg,
Is there a site that shows the display of the Ipaq? I don't currently use a
PDA but an Airmap 300 instead. I would like a color moving map display in my
RV.
Greg Tanner
RV-9A Empennage
SER #90186 N80BR (APPLIED FOR)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Greg Yotz
Sent: Thursday, September 28, 2000 9:44 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Leading edge
You haven't seen the Compaq Ipaq Pocket PC in direct sunlight then. Because
it knocks the socks off the Garmin 295. The more sunlight the better.
Casio was the best then but now the Ipaq answers all the questions and
problems.
Greg
>
> Thank you very much for the info. Have been wondering about that and no
store
> would allow me to bring one out into the sunlight and turn it on.
> Dale Ensing 6A O-360 C/S
> finishing details
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Terry Jantzi <tjantzi(at)netrover.com> |
You may have heard the rumours. But now we have proof. Just placed on
the Ontario Wing web site is a picture of the soon to be flying DF-6,
which is a RV-6 fuselage with a one-of-kind taper wing. Look for David
Fried under "Members RV's".
The Ontario Wing site is <http://www.ontariorvators.org>
Terry Jantzi
Kitchener, ON
RV-6 (very square wing)
--
<http://www.netrover.com/~tjantzi/terry/> Home Page
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Leading edge |
| From: | Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com |
09/28/2000 01:25:50 PM
>The Control Vision software does load the entire North America, Canada,
>Mexico, Hawaii in the unit all at once. And they give database updates
via
>the web right now and it is updated every 28 days. The good thing about
the
>Pocket PC and Palm units are, when you leave the airport they are good for
>something else. Your investment isn't sitting in the cockpit when your
not
>flying. And Jim, the Pharos unit you asked about does work with their
>software. There is a guy in Dallas, Tx that is using it that I know of
for
>sure.
Sweet!
Do you know if you need to have the 8 meg option or will the standard Palm
V work? Sounds like a lot of data.
This is way cool. I have the monochrome palm top and the sunnier it gets
the better it looks. I know there has been a huge swing towards color in
both GPS units like Garmin's 295 vs the 195 but like black and white photos
vs color, both options have their strong points.
I understand what you mean by more than just a GPS... there is some really
good flight planing software out there for the palm including E6B type
applications as well.
Thanks for the update,
- Jim Andrews
RV-8A (FWF)
O-360 Sensenich 85
N89JA reserved
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)bconnex.net> |
| Subject: | Rudder fairing fiberglass repair? |
I cut the rudder fairing to fit it around the rudder horn and cut a bit too
much. I have seen pictures of fairings that look like they have glass all
around the horn. Is this possible with fiberglass or do I get a new fairing.
I haven't done any glass work yet...
See this picture for clarification...
http://www.avsim.com/hangar/fly/hangar/glass.gif
Any help/advice would be much appreciated.
Are
RV-8
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Garmin updates was ( Controlvision stuff ) |
| From: | Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com |
09/28/2000 01:55:41 PM
Can anyone tell me where to find the Garmin 195 software updates? I have
surfed the website extensively both in product accessories and just from
page to page without any luck. I know that they are out there somewhere.
Surly they have made changes to the database since I bought this unit in
July of 99.
Thanks,
- Jim Andrews
RV-8A (FWF)
O-360 Sensenich 85
N89JA reserved
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com |
09/28/2000 02:10:08 PM
Check out www.compaq.com. Great pop up demo. Don't look to purchase one
at your local computer store anytime soon. All the Compusa's for a 200
mile radius were out of stock. Even the one in Houston " Compaqs
headquarters" :-)
- Jim Andrews
RV-8A (FWF)
O-360 Sensenich 85
N89JA reserved
"Greg Tanner" on 09/28/2000 01:17:18 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com; Please respond to "Greg Tanner"
Subject: RE: RV-List: Leading edge
Greg,
Is there a site that shows the display of the Ipaq? I don't currently use a
PDA but an Airmap 300 instead. I would like a color moving map display in
my
RV.
Greg Tanner
RV-9A Empennage
SER #90186 N80BR (APPLIED FOR)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Greg Yotz
Sent: Thursday, September 28, 2000 9:44 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Leading edge
You haven't seen the Compaq Ipaq Pocket PC in direct sunlight then.
Because
it knocks the socks off the Garmin 295. The more sunlight the better.
Casio was the best then but now the Ipaq answers all the questions and
problems.
Greg
>
> Thank you very much for the info. Have been wondering about that and no
store
> would allow me to bring one out into the sunlight and turn it on.
> Dale Ensing 6A O-360 C/S
> finishing details
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Garage/Shop is nearly done |
Well, after too many hours getting my shop in order, I am quickly running out
of excuses to order my RV. I should have heat within a week or two, ceiling
insulation shortly thereafter. The shop turned out better than I had hoped,
with shiny new white satin paint reflecting the ample light from the
flourescents, I have created, at least in my mind, the framework for an
airplane builder's shop.
I think I'll get started on a work table and a jig.......let's see, where's
that Avery catalog now.
Bob Moser
Minnesota
Shop Prep is FINALLY DONE and dreamin' of an -8 Tail
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Gear leg length |
In a message dated 9/28/2000 12:56:50 PM Central Daylight Time,
bcbraem(at)home.com writes:
> TeamRocket should also be a source of longer mains for the -6 and the
> fairings they make are "fatter" (don't fit as tight) than Saylor's.
> >
Team rockets titanium gear legs will not fit the Harmon or the Rv mounts.
They are a different design. However Mark and team rocket do have some nice
gear leg and intersection fairings that reportly have add up to 6 or 7 mph
over bare gear legs.
chris wilcox, f1 rocket
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Hawkins <lhawkins(at)giant.com> |
"'Greg Tanner'"@matronics.com
Go to this link to see the unit. $499
http://athome.compaq.com/showroom/static/iPaq/handheld.asp
Thanks, Larry Hawkins
-----Original Message-----
From: Greg Tanner [mailto:gtanner(at)bendcable.com]
Sent: Thursday, September 28, 2000 12:17 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Leading edge
Greg,
Is there a site that shows the display of the Ipaq? I don't currently use a
PDA but an Airmap 300 instead. I would like a color moving map display in my
RV.
Greg Tanner
RV-9A Empennage
SER #90186 N80BR (APPLIED FOR)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Greg Yotz
Sent: Thursday, September 28, 2000 9:44 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Leading edge
You haven't seen the Compaq Ipaq Pocket PC in direct sunlight then. Because
it knocks the socks off the Garmin 295. The more sunlight the better.
Casio was the best then but now the Ipaq answers all the questions and
problems.
Greg
>
> Thank you very much for the info. Have been wondering about that and no
store
> would allow me to bring one out into the sunlight and turn it on.
> Dale Ensing 6A O-360 C/S
> finishing details
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com |
09/28/2000 02:10:08 PM
Check out www.compaq.com. Great pop up demo. Don't look to purchase one
at your local computer store anytime soon. All the Compusa's for a 200
mile radius were out of stock. Even the one in Houston " Compaqs
headquarters" :-)
- Jim Andrews
RV-8A (FWF)
O-360 Sensenich 85
N89JA reserved
"Greg Tanner" on 09/28/2000 01:17:18 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com; Please respond to "Greg Tanner"
Subject: RE: RV-List: Leading edge
Greg,
Is there a site that shows the display of the Ipaq? I don't currently use a
PDA but an Airmap 300 instead. I would like a color moving map display in
my
RV.
Greg Tanner
RV-9A Empennage
SER #90186 N80BR (APPLIED FOR)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Greg Yotz
Sent: Thursday, September 28, 2000 9:44 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Leading edge
You haven't seen the Compaq Ipaq Pocket PC in direct sunlight then.
Because
it knocks the socks off the Garmin 295. The more sunlight the better.
Casio was the best then but now the Ipaq answers all the questions and
problems.
Greg
>
> Thank you very much for the info. Have been wondering about that and no
store
> would allow me to bring one out into the sunlight and turn it on.
> Dale Ensing 6A O-360 C/S
> finishing details
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Finn Lassen <finnlassen(at)netzero.net> |
You will need it if you're ever going to fly to Mexico or the Bahamas.
Finn
> > While cleaning out my wallet I found an FCC restriced radiotelephone
> > operators permit . Since I don't remember when or where I got this,
> > perhaps someone can tell me if I need it for anything "flying" related.
> > If not, what is it for?
Request a CDROM 1-800-333-3633
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Al Malecha" <azflyer(at)theriver.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Garmin updates was ( Controlvision stuff ) |
Call Jeppesen
----- Original Message -----
From: <Jim_Andrews(at)tivoli.com>
Sent: Thursday, September 28, 2000 11:56 AM
Subject: RV-List: Garmin updates was ( Controlvision stuff )
>
> Can anyone tell me where to find the Garmin 195 software updates? I have
> surfed the website extensively both in product accessories and just from
> page to page without any luck. I know that they are out there somewhere.
> Surly they have made changes to the database since I bought this unit in
> July of 99.
>
> Thanks,
>
> - Jim Andrews
> RV-8A (FWF)
> O-360 Sensenich 85
> N89JA reserved
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Garmin updates was ( Controlvision stuff ) |
Garmin has a update service via disk mailer you cn get it twie yearly like i
do for a resonalble fee
contact garmin costomer service.
Pat N314EP
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg Yotz" <gyachts(at)kans.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Controlvision stuff |
The Anywhere Map updates are free for the first six months, all the time any
time. The annual database update is only $100 flat and that gives you free
software updates. They also update the database every 28 days, like the
feds. So you get much more current data and software upgrades to boot. And
your don't have to wait for the floppies to arrive in the mail... Get'em
off the website when ever it is convenent. And I sure like the way the Ipaq
looks in the cockpit. Can't find away that the display doesn't look good.
Direct sunlight or at night....
Greg
>
> When controlVision first came out with the Anywhere Pilot they offered
> free updates for a limited time--downloaded from the website. After
> that, you have to pay for the updates just like for the Garmin 195
> (currently $150 for twice a year). The Garmin updates contain all the
> aviation data base material on two 1.44 floppies. Plus, you need the
PC-cable--?$35.00.
>
> Boyd
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg Yotz" <gyachts(at)kans.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Leading edge |
Found several at Radio Shack stores. I think the 800 number for Radio shack
mail order had them too.
Greg
>
> Check out www.compaq.com. Great pop up demo. Don't look to purchase one
> at your local computer store anytime soon. All the Compusa's for a 200
> mile radius were out of stock. Even the one in Houston " Compaqs
> headquarters" :-)
>
> - Jim Andrews
> RV-8A (FWF)
> O-360 Sensenich 85
> N89JA reserved
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: O-360 C/S RATIO? |
Dear listers
i am looking for a prop govenor for an o-360 a1d. the local prop guy asked me
what was the engine's gear drive ratio. it is either .866-1 or .850-1,
engine gurus please inlighten me as to what they are talking about. i have
the engine and c/s prop that van sells. what prop gov do i need?
thanks in advance
scott
tampa
rv6a can't hang engine untill i get a prop gov.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Owens, Laird" <Owens(at)aerovironment.com> |
I think Gary will chime in here, but when I was talking to Ken Krueger and Gary
Sobek up at Golden West the same subject came up.
Seems that Ken and Gary flew together from Reid-Hillview over to Sac. Exec. for
the Fly-in. Gary has a clean RV-6/O-320/Hartzell and Ken was in the O-320 powered
RV-9a with the MT prop. Both were about the same weight. From what Gary
said, the RV-9a took off in about 2/3 the distance of the RV-6, outclimbed
him, and was almost exactly the same cruise speed. They didn't do any stall comparsions,
but the longer wing (and large slotted flaps) will stall slower. No
telling what the difference in prop is doing.
Looks like the only thing the RV-9a is giving up is using an O-360 and aerobatic
capability.
As to if the trailing edge has anything do do with it, who knows. If Mr Fast RV-6
does put 9 type ailerons on his RV-6, he will end up with a heavier feel.
Laird Owens RV-6, N515L, 100 hrs
O-360, Sensenich (83)
Simi Valley, SoCal
Eric wrote:
Thought I'd dump a rumor on you guys. A friend of mine with a very fast RV6, was
talking to another very reputable builder with a very, very fast RV6 and he said
Van told him that the 150hp RV9 goes as fast as an RV6 with same HP. The reason
being that the trailing edges of the control surfaces are flat like a Cessenas
and this greatly reduces drag. Seems Mr. very, Very fast RV6 was on his way to
build him a set. This person shall remain nameless, at least until you see flat
trailing edges on his control surfaces. My little mind was boggled by this.
Does this seem feasable? Uh, Kevin?
Please, discuss amongst yourselves.
Eric Henson
Fuse Crap
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larygagnon(at)AOL.COM |
Can anyone on the list tell me where to find fairings for the 6. I saw a
wing/flap fairing on a 6 at a fly-in last week but couldn't find the pilot to
ask whether he made them or bought them. It faired in the flap where it
comes up against the fuse. I've also heard of a wing/fuse fairing that is an
aerodynamic improvement over Van's . Will the Rocket gear fairings fit on a
6 and are they any better then the fiberglass ones I received from Van's?
Larry Gagnon
Kitfox 4/912 N102LG
RV6 Fuselage N6LG (reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim M" <jmosur(at)interlog.com> |
| Subject: | Re: OSWEGO NY RV FORUM and FLY-IN |
David.
Canyou tell me if there will be customs at the field, if so what is their
phone number. We have a few RV;s at Brampton Flying Club that are planning
to attend on Sat.
Jim Mosur
RV 6 C-GAPF
-----Original Message-----
From: RV6160hp(at)AOL.COM <RV6160hp(at)AOL.COM>
Date: Friday, September 08, 2000 9:46 AM
Subject: RV-List: OSWEGO NY RV FORUM and FLY-IN
>
>6th Annual Northeast RV Forum
>September 30 - October 1, 2000
>Oswego County Airport Fulton NY
>KFZY
>
>Just a Quick note on the RV-List inviting people to the RV-Forum and
>Fly-in.
>
>Link our web site:
>http://www.web-flight.com/486/eaarvforum.htm
><http://www.web-flight.com/486/eaarvforum.htm>
>
>Please pre-registered so our hand outs and food counts are more accurate.
>
>As in the past got lots of things planned.
>
>Hope to see you there
>Respectfully
>David McManmon
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rudder fairing fiberglass repair? |
Are,
Option 1: cut off the front portion even with the bottom of the rudder
horn... it's not like this is in the airstream. That is what I did on mine.
Option 2: fiberglass it in. If you haven't done anything with fg yet then
just set it aside until later. Once you've laid up and finished your
windscreen fairing, fitted your canopy skirt, and make the cowling fit you
will look at the rudder fairing and laugh.
Randy Lervold
www.rv-8.com
> I cut the rudder fairing to fit it around the rudder horn and cut a bit
too
> much. I have seen pictures of fairings that look like they have glass all
> around the horn. Is this possible with fiberglass or do I get a new
fairing.
> I haven't done any glass work yet...
>
> See this picture for clarification...
>
> http://www.avsim.com/hangar/fly/hangar/glass.gif
>
> Any help/advice would be much appreciated.
>
> Are
> RV-8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: O-360 C/S RATIO? |
Scott,
I also had a problem at first trying to figure out which Governor. I ended
up justing ordering one from Van's. Ended up costing just slightly more
than a rebuilt one from a prop shop.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A N809RS
>From: ABAYMAN(at)AOL.COM
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com, ABAYMAN(at)AOL.COM
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: O-360 C/S RATIO?
>Date: Thu, 28 Sep 2000 16:45:19 EDT
>
>
>Dear listers
>i am looking for a prop govenor for an o-360 a1d. the local prop guy asked
>me
>what was the engine's gear drive ratio. it is either .866-1 or .850-1,
>engine gurus please inlighten me as to what they are talking about. i have
>the engine and c/s prop that van sells. what prop gov do i need?
>thanks in advance
>scott
>tampa
>rv6a can't hang engine untill i get a prop gov.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV Scuttlebutt |
>
> Thought I'd dump a rumor on you guys. A friend of
> mine with a very fast RV6, was
> talking to another very reputable builder with a
> very, very fast RV6 and he said
> Van told him that the 150hp RV9 goes as fast as an
> RV6 with same HP. The reason
> being that the trailing edges of the control
> surfaces are flat like a Cessenas
> and this greatly reduces drag. Seems Mr. very, Very
> fast RV6 was on his way to
> build him a set. This person shall remain nameless,
> at least until you see flat
> trailing edges on his control surfaces. My little
> mind was boggled by this.
>
> Does this seem feasable? Uh, Kevin?
>
> Please, discuss amongst yourselves.
>
> Eric Henson
> Fuse Crap
Eric:
If you were at the Golden West Fly-In earlier this
month, you would have seen the RV-9A depart Friday and
Saturday evening in formation with my airplane and
arrive Saturday and Sunday mornings in formation with
me on its wing. The RV-9A has an O-320 and MT
constant speed prop. I have an O-320 and Hartzell
constant speed prop. The takeoff roll with both
aircraft at full throttle has the RV-9A accelerating
faster and breaking ground in 2/3s of my ground roll.
After leveling off at 2,500 and crusing along at about
150 KIAS, both aircraft put everything forward. The
RV-9A again out accelerated and pulled almost 3
aircraft lenghts ahead. As the airspeed settled
around 166 KIAS, the RV-9A was pulling away from my
RV-6.
RACE results from my airplane can be found at:
http://listproc.eracer.org/RACE/mesquite1199.html
Copperstate Dash 1999 results for my aircraft was
published in 1999 "Sport Aviation."
====
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
698+ Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.tripod.com
Yahoo! Photos - 35mm Quality Prints, Now Get 15 Free!
http://photos.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John" <fasching(at)amigo.net> |
| Subject: | RV6A Pressure Recovery Nose Wheel Fairing |
I am in the process of fitting Van's PR fairing to the nose wheel. I notice
that the brackets that are riveted to the fairing at the axle location do
not touch the wheel assembly...there is about 3/8" inch "gap" between the
fairing brackets and the wheel axle surfaces on both sides when the fairing
is centered.
Question: Should this gap be filled with washers (tedious to say the least)
or should the gap be
compressed with the axle bolt and the fairing 'squeezed' together to
eliminate the gaps?
I don't like squeezing the fairing...it would cause problems at the front
where the nose 'cap' attaches and probably would require a lot of fairing to
be cut away to avoid rubbing on the tire.
What did you folks do? Or didn't you have the problem?
RV6A Flying
Salida, CO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Vacuum System |
<39.aa2aaa7.270392b5(at)aol.com>
<022701c028db$1a6bdfc0$18210a18@bllvu1.wa.home.com>
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
Just a passing thought....will check my sources of replacement 12 volt vacuum
motors used in motorhome central vacs, I know the until is about 80% more
inches of vacuum then needed, but the motor does draw a fair amount of
current at 14
volts dc.. Perhaps using an IC regulator to reduce the voltage to around 8
volts would bring the current to an acceptable level and enough vacuum.
"TBO" for the brushes is rated 300-500 hours.
I used to build electrically driven standby vacuum systems . . . they
are NOT as dependable as an engine driven vacuum system . . . this is
why they were popularized as a standby. It sat in the airplane unused
until needed. The most dependable is a venturi . . . no moving parts.
Harder to de-ice tho. Given that one's #1 mission upon encountering
ice is to get out of ice, then perhaps de-ice isn't that important.
See latest issue AOPA pilot where a pilot writes about an instrument
course he took. The goal was to get him rated in 10 days. The first thing
the instructor did was cover up the attitude gyro saying, "we won't
need this."
I used to fly shotgun for a co-worker's instrument proficiency
work . . . he would cover up BOTH gyros and we'd go out to shoot
approaches to minimums in the typcial KS bumpy crosswinds. And by
the way, this was NOT a "no gyro" approach using timed turns from
the ground. We went out at lunch time to fly Mid Continent Airport
mixed in with all the big guys and totally on his own. He'd
nail those two needles together and track them right down to the
runway every time. Flying IFR with gyros is not difficult . . .
it's just a different way of doing it. Doing it well gives you
more options about equipment expectations and puts the odds of
living to fly another day decidedly in your favor.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
Larygagnon(at)AOL.COM wrote:
>
>
> Can anyone on the list tell me where to find fairings for the 6. I saw a
> wing/flap fairing on a 6 at a fly-in last week but couldn't find the pilot to
> ask whether he made them or bought them. It faired in the flap where it
> comes up against the fuse. I've also heard of a wing/fuse fairing that is an
> aerodynamic improvement over Van's . Will the Rocket gear fairings fit on a
> 6 and are they any better then the fiberglass ones I received from Van's?
Well................now that you mentioned Rocket fairings for the RV-6:
http://home.HiWAAY.net/~sbuc/journal/fairings.htm
Sam Buchanan (RV-6 with Rocket fairings)
"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Re: All Electric on a Budget Questions |
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
>> The SD-8 is a limited output device and the goal was to maximize
>> its utility in case the main alternator quits.
>
>I don't understand what you mean by this. The SD-8 is limited to an output
>of 8-10 amps but should not be limited in its reliability. Since its main
>wear is taking place already due to the fact that it is always being driven
>by the gear mechanism, having its output put to use should not decrease its
>reliability when the main alternator quits. Why can't it be used all the
>time?
It can . . . but to make two machines share a load accurately, the
regulators need to talk to each other. Without paralleling regulators,
one alternator will always either hog the load (the bigger one)
or run full out with the bigger one taking up the difference. This
means that the SD-8 runs either unloaded or fully loaded. Unloaded
means it's not helping, fully loaded means the regulator runs hot
all the time. There's no advantage in doing it and there are
longevity ramifications for allowing the SD-8 to be loaded to
max all the time.
>
>> If we're down to
>> the SD-8 as the engine driven power source, then I don't want
>> to waste 1/8th of it's output holding a battery contactor closed.
>
>I agree, which is why I would suggest hooking it up directly to its own
>bus....maybe the essential buss only.
When you're down to battery + SD8 ops with the battery contactor open,
the SD-8 powers only the main bus. If you move the feed point to the
other side of the E-bus Alt Feed switch, you can inadvertently
run the SD-8 to the e-bus without benefit of the stabilizing effects
of the battery. The SD-8 doesn't run well this way.
>> The architecture shown is intended to MAKE SURE that you get to
>> the airport of intended destination.
>
>My only suggested change is to utilize the electricity being generated by
>the SD-8 anyway. How does this decrease reliability?
It isn't a reliability issue. The SD-8 needs a battery to run
well . . . most alternators do. It's a system performance
issue.
>> No, the main alternator should be a minimum of 130% of total
>> max continuous loads for the airplane
>
>I wasn't aware of this rule of thumb. Why is this?
If you design a charging system to carry only 100% of system
loads, there is no head-room to recharge a battery. We try to
design a system so that a completely discharged battery is
fully recharged in an hour or less with all loads operating.
>. >The SD-8 runs only
>> when the big guy is compromised.
>
>Again, why?
No reason why not. The big guy should be appropriate to an
all up operations task. You can't make them share responsabilities
without adding complexity to the system and no benefits
are gained by doing it.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris Sheehan <ctsheehan(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: O-360 C/S RATIO? |
Have a look at the TCDS at:
http://www.airweb.faa.gov/Regulatory_and_Guidance_Library\rgMakeModel.nsf/CurrentTCDSbyProductType/CF23DE5A6B11E1968525670E00515EF6?OpenDocument
The ratios are there. Looks like .866 but you should check it and
satisfy yourself! It appears that the .850 ratio applies to the dual mag
setup.
If for some reason the URL doesn't work the TCDS is number E-286.
Chris
ABAYMAN(at)AOL.COM wrote:
>
>
> Dear listers
> i am looking for a prop govenor for an o-360 a1d. the local prop guy asked me
> what was the engine's gear drive ratio. it is either .866-1 or .850-1,
> engine gurus please inlighten me as to what they are talking about. i have
> the engine and c/s prop that van sells. what prop gov do i need?
> thanks in advance
> scott
> tampa
> rv6a can't hang engine untill i get a prop gov.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Thomas McIntyre <bogeybrother(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV Scuttlebutt |
Maybe the RV9 will race at Copperstate, then we'll know for sure.
Tom
RV3
Gary A. Sobek wrote:
>
> >
> > Thought I'd dump a rumor on you guys. A friend of
> > mine with a very fast RV6, was
> > talking to another very reputable builder with a
> > very, very fast RV6 and he said
> > Van told him that the 150hp RV9 goes as fast as an
> > RV6 with same HP. The reason
> > being that the trailing edges of the control
> > surfaces are flat like a Cessenas
> > and this greatly reduces drag. Seems Mr. very, Very
> > fast RV6 was on his way to
> > build him a set. This person shall remain nameless,
> > at least until you see flat
> > trailing edges on his control surfaces. My little
> > mind was boggled by this.
> >
> > Does this seem feasable? Uh, Kevin?
> >
> > Please, discuss amongst yourselves.
> >
> > Eric Henson
> > Fuse Crap
> Eric:
>
> If you were at the Golden West Fly-In earlier this
> month, you would have seen the RV-9A depart Friday and
> Saturday evening in formation with my airplane and
> arrive Saturday and Sunday mornings in formation with
> me on its wing. The RV-9A has an O-320 and MT
> constant speed prop. I have an O-320 and Hartzell
> constant speed prop. The takeoff roll with both
> aircraft at full throttle has the RV-9A accelerating
> faster and breaking ground in 2/3s of my ground roll.
> After leveling off at 2,500 and crusing along at about
> 150 KIAS, both aircraft put everything forward. The
> RV-9A again out accelerated and pulled almost 3
> aircraft lenghts ahead. As the airspeed settled
> around 166 KIAS, the RV-9A was pulling away from my
> RV-6.
>
> RACE results from my airplane can be found at:
> http://listproc.eracer.org/RACE/mesquite1199.html
> Copperstate Dash 1999 results for my aircraft was
> published in 1999 "Sport Aviation."
>
> ====
> Gary A. Sobek
> "My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
> 698+ Flying Hours So. CA, USA
> http://SoCAL_WVAF.tripod.com
>
> Yahoo! Photos - 35mm Quality Prints, Now Get 15 Free!
> http://photos.yahoo.com/
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)AOL.COM |
In a message dated 9/28/00 5:35:50 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
Larygagnon(at)AOL.COM writes:
> I saw a
> wing/flap fairing on a 6 at a fly-in last week but couldn't find the pilot
> to
> ask whether he made them or bought them
Sam James (you can find his phone number in the Yeller Pages or the Archives)
makes these.
Kyle Boatright - Kennesaw, GA
RV-6 Slider, O-320/Aymar-Demuth
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | cherry rivet question |
i talked to bob avery today and he said that the cherry rivets are as strong
as ... however, it is the EXPENSE ($$$$) that's the downside. he said to
look in wicks, and i see several types: cherry q, cherry max, cherry n
commercial, and plain cherry. which ones??????????????????? bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carlfro(at)erols.com> |
| Subject: | Re: All Electric on a Budget Questions |
Ken,
I agree with your single point of failure assessment of the dual
alternator - single battery all electric installation. I will have an all
electric panel as well as dual electronic ignitions. Although I agree with
Bob Nuckolls on the reliability of current RG batteries, since no power in
my plane equates to no engine, I wanted a system that could go through
several degrade layers before loosing both ignitions. The single battery
and common wiring associated with single battery installations does not meet
this requirement (I assume the alternator(s) are unreliable for providing
power without a battery floating on the buss).
I will have two Odyssey PC-625 batteries and a single 60 amp alternator.
Each battery will feed an ignition buss, a "vital" buss, and a battery
contact that will feed a shared "non-vital" buss. The batteries will be
mounted on opposite sides of the forward cockpit floor (RV-8A), the wiring
and breakers for the ignitions and vital buss will be physically separate as
well. The common wiring to the non-vital buss starts downstream of the
starter solenoid. The ignition and vital busses with be cross connected via
blocking diodes.
The objective is if there is a catastrophic failure of a battery and/or
one side of wiring, I will still be able to fly, with gyros and at least one
nav/com, until fuel exhaustion. If a non-vital load is needed (e.g. landing
lights), the remaining battery contactor is shut to power the load.
Carl Froehlich
RV-8A (cowl)
Vienna, VA
----- Original Message -----
From: Robert L. Nuckolls, III <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com>
Sent: Thursday, September 28, 2000 10:05 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: All Electric on a Budget Questions
>
> >
> >Bob,
> >
> >One other question regarding Figure Z-8 and the relay between th SD-8
> >dynamo and the battery bus:
> >
> >Does placing this relay in the circuit not make the battery a single
> >point of failure for the entire electrical system? I understand that
> >the relay is needed for the OV module, but isn't there some way to
> >configure the circuit to take advantage of the fact that the SD-8 does
> >not need the battery to function?
> >
> >Ken Harrill
> >RV-6, electrical system soon.
>
> Most alternators, the SD-8 included, need a battery on
> line for acceptable performance. For the SD-8 it's an
> issue of noise. The critter is single phase and quite
> noisey. Battery failure is not a concern if one conducts
> routine preventative maintenance. Even with dual alternators,
> I would run a capacity check on the battery every six months
> after a year's service and replace it when it drops to 80%
> of new. Even if you run the battery into the ground for
> capacity, it's not likely to fail in a way that takes the
> alternator down. Shorted cells don't happen in RG batteries.
>
>
> Bob . . .
> --------------------------------------------
> ( Knowing about a thing is different than )
> ( understanding it. One can know a lot )
> ( and still understand nothing. )
> ( C.F. Kettering )
> --------------------------------------------
> http://www.aeroelectric.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | glenn williams <willig10(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | rv-8 8a spar bulkhead |
Guys do any of you on the slow build 8 or 8a fuselage
spar bulkhead have any good suggestions as to the
assembly of the unit? I have all the small pieces
manufactured i.e. the crotch strap, seat floor
supports etc. etc. but the manual leaves a lot to be
desired. any help would be appreciated. any ideas?
thanks in advance
Glenn Williams
====
Glenn Williams
8A
A&P
N81GW
Yahoo! Photos - 35mm Quality Prints, Now Get 15 Free!
http://photos.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls(at)aeroelectric.com> |
| Subject: | Gone to Santa Rosa . . . |
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
Dee and I are packed up and pulling the plugs on the
office computers. We'll be headed for Santa Rosa in the
morning to do a weekend seminar.
Will be taking care of e-mail duties via the dial-up
account and a traveling laptop but the hammer-n-tongs
stuff from the shop is on hold until Monday. Looking
forward to meeting with lots of our readers this weekend.
You don't need a reservation to make this program . . .
just show up and we'll find a seat for you.
http://www.aeroelectric.com/SantaRosa.html
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------
( Knowing about a thing is different than )
( understanding it. One can know a lot )
( and still understand nothing. )
( C.F. Kettering )
--------------------------------------------
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WLBARRIE(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: vortex generators |
There is a good article and test report in the "Supercub Newsletter" re. the
same vg's. No measurable change in takeoff or landing distance. The advantage
appears to be control at low speed. No topspeed loss. Also an article in
"Northwoods Pilot".
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: RV Scuttlebutt |
>
>>
>> Thought I'd dump a rumor on you guys. A friend of
>> mine with a very fast RV6, was
>> talking to another very reputable builder with a
>> very, very fast RV6 and he said
>> Van told him that the 150hp RV9 goes as fast as an
>> RV6 with same HP. The reason
>> being that the trailing edges of the control
>> surfaces are flat like a Cessenas
>> and this greatly reduces drag. Seems Mr. very, Very
>> fast RV6 was on his way to
>> build him a set. This person shall remain nameless,
>> at least until you see flat
>> trailing edges on his control surfaces. My little
>> mind was boggled by this.
>>
>> Does this seem feasable? Uh, Kevin?
>>
>> Please, discuss amongst yourselves.
>>
>> Eric Henson
>> Fuse Crap
>Eric:
>
>If you were at the Golden West Fly-In earlier this
>month, you would have seen the RV-9A depart Friday and
>Saturday evening in formation with my airplane and
>arrive Saturday and Sunday mornings in formation with
>me on its wing. The RV-9A has an O-320 and MT
>constant speed prop. I have an O-320 and Hartzell
>constant speed prop. The takeoff roll with both
>aircraft at full throttle has the RV-9A accelerating
>faster and breaking ground in 2/3s of my ground roll.
>After leveling off at 2,500 and crusing along at about
>150 KIAS, both aircraft put everything forward. The
>RV-9A again out accelerated and pulled almost 3
>aircraft lenghts ahead. As the airspeed settled
>around 166 KIAS, the RV-9A was pulling away from my
>RV-6.
>
>RACE results from my airplane can be found at:
>http://listproc.eracer.org/RACE/mesquite1199.html
>Copperstate Dash 1999 results for my aircraft was
>published in 1999 "Sport Aviation."
>
>
>====
>Gary A. Sobek
>"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
>698+ Flying Hours So. CA, USA
>http://SoCAL_WVAF.tripod.com
>
>Yahoo! Photos - 35mm Quality Prints, Now Get 15 Free!
>http://photos.yahoo.com/
>
Well, this is interesting to say the least. The problem is that we
don't really know whether the RV-9A really does have less drag than
Gary's RV-6, or the MT prop is more efficient, or the engine in the
RV-9A is maybe putting out a big more power than the one in Gary's
aircraft. There are engine-to-engine variations, even between
"identical" engines. This is going to be interesting to watch as
RV-9As start flying.
Which gear leg fairings and wheel pants do you have Gary? Van's
latest ones are apparently pretty low drag - could that be a factor?
Do you get red line rpm when you push everything forward? Have you
calibrated your tach lately? How does the number and placement of
external antennae compare to the RV-9A?
For the record - I would be rather surprised if the blunt edge
control surfaces have much to do with the speed of the RV-9A, but
we'll only know for sure once Mr. Fast-guy does the mod.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (misc fuselage stuff)
Ottawa, Canada
http://members.nbci.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James E. Clark" <jclark(at)conterra.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Leading edge |
The Controlvision http://www.controlvision.com site uses te Compaq for
several of its display pictures.
I have been playing with the iPAQ and the AnywhereMap s/w. Pretty good
stuff.
Has some nice features. If time permits later, I may try to post a
comparison to the Garmins.
Where it makes the MOST sense (value-wise) is when you have/need a PDA
(PocketPC) and either have a GPS/Loran or can get a cheap GPS to drive it.
James
----- Original Message -----
From: "Greg Tanner" <gtanner(at)bendcable.com>
Sent: Thursday, September 28, 2000 2:17 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Leading edge
>
> Greg,
> Is there a site that shows the display of the Ipaq? I don't currently use
a
> PDA but an Airmap 300 instead. I would like a color moving map display in
my
> RV.
>
> Greg Tanner
> RV-9A Empennage
> SER #90186 N80BR (APPLIED FOR)
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Greg Yotz
> Sent: Thursday, September 28, 2000 9:44 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com; DWENSING(at)AOL.COM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Leading edge
>
>
> You haven't seen the Compaq Ipaq Pocket PC in direct sunlight then.
Because
> it knocks the socks off the Garmin 295. The more sunlight the better.
> Casio was the best then but now the Ipaq answers all the questions and
> problems.
>
> Greg
>
> >
> > Thank you very much for the info. Have been wondering about that and no
> store
> > would allow me to bring one out into the sunlight and turn it on.
> > Dale Ensing 6A O-360 C/S
> > finishing details
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV Scuttlebutt |
"
>
> Looks like the only thing the RV-9a is giving up is using an O-360 and aerobatic
capability.
>
Heck, the next thing you know we will have to give up sex and beer. No aerobatics
and no O-360 why live?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)bconnex.net> |
| Subject: | Elevator in trail? |
Thanks a miilion to all that answered my earlier posts!
How do you best determine that the elevator(s) are in trail except aligning
counter balance skin with HS? I can only see that eye-balling it will be
best bet due to the taper of the elevator skins. I am about to drill the
horns to the center bearing and like to make this right since I read many
horror stories in the archives. I see that some listers say that the
elevators are NOT in trail when the counter weight skin is aligned with HS.
How can they tell?
I noticed that one horn is about 1/8" lower than the other when the counter
balance skins are aligned with HS. Hope this won't cause a big problem for
push-rod mounting. I guess I either mounted one a bit higher than the other
when making skeleton or that the weldments are not 100% correct. The
distance between the horns is consistent from top to bottom though and the
trailing edge from one elevator to the other looks straight and ok.
Also, the counter balance skins are rubbing the HS skin were the HS tips are
to be installed when adjusting the rod-end bolts to specs. Do I back off
with the bolts or trim the skin (pre-punch).
Will I still be ok with this misalignment of horns?
Are
RV-8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6A Pressure Recovery Nose Wheel Fairing |
> I am in the process of fitting Van's PR fairing to the nose wheel. I
notice
> that the brackets that are riveted to the fairing at the axle location do
> not touch the wheel assembly...there is about 3/8" inch "gap" between the
> fairing brackets and the wheel axle surfaces on both sides when the
fairing
> is centered.
>
> Question: Should this gap be filled with washers (tedious to say the
least)
> or should the gap be
> compressed with the axle bolt and the fairing 'squeezed' together to
> eliminate the gaps?
>
> I don't like squeezing the fairing...it would cause problems at the front
> where the nose 'cap' attaches and probably would require a lot of fairing
to
> be cut away to avoid rubbing on the tire.
>
> What did you folks do? Or didn't you have the problem?
Try modifying the design a little... Put a couple of nutplates on the
brackets where they contact the fiberglass fairing. The brackets are then
bolted to the axle once, and screws are put into the nutplates to hold the
fairings on. Then bond a strip of metal onto the inside of the fairing to
strengthen the area where the screws go through, and this strip can be the
shim you need. I also put anti-rotation pins (rivets) in the brackets to
make tightening the axle easier. I can't imagine people are taking the axle
out just to inspect the nose wheel/tire etc.. You can also glass over the
holes in the fairing which were for the axle, but this may require a thin
version of the locknut.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
6A O360, Airflow, CS
may fly in '01
------ http://USFamily.Net/info - Unlimited Internet - From $7.99/mo! ------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator in trail? |
-----Original Message-----
From: Are Barstad <abarstad(at)bconnex.net>
Date: Thursday, September 28, 2000 11:15 PM
Subject: RV-List: Elevator in trail?
>
>Thanks a miilion to all that answered my earlier posts!
>
>I noticed that one horn is about 1/8" lower than the other when the counter
>balance skins are aligned with HS>
You are right on the money! The horns come with a built-in error of about
1/8 inch.
>Also, the counter balance skins are rubbing the HS skin were the HS tips
are
>to be installed when adjusting the rod-end bolts to specs. Do I back off
>with the bolts or trim the skin (pre-punch).
Do something to get the recommended 1/8 MINIMUM gap. If you ever pick up
ice this is a prime location for ice accretion.
>
>>Are
>RV-8
When you affix the elevators, each in trail according to the balance weight
ends (because the geometry of the trailing edges of the elevators precludes
easy alignment), drill a "sacrificial" hole away from the rod end bearing
location to fix the horns -- if you like this alignment, put in a bushing
and an extra AN3 bolt to hold the alignment for the critical rod end bearing
drilling. Keep this bolt and bushing intact. If you don't like it, try
another and you will have an extra little lightening hole.
Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP O360A1A/Hartzell 0.0 hours
Hampshire, IL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV Scuttlebutt |
--- Kevin Horton wrote:
> Well, this is interesting to say the least. The
> problem is that we
> don't really know whether the RV-9A really does have
> less drag than
> Gary's RV-6, or the MT prop is more efficient, or
> the engine in the
> RV-9A is maybe putting out a big more power than the
> one in Gary's
> aircraft. There are engine-to-engine variations,
> even between
> "identical" engines. This is going to be
> interesting to watch as
> RV-9As start flying.
>
> Which gear leg fairings and wheel pants do you have
> Gary? Van's
> latest ones are apparently pretty low drag - could
> that be a factor?
> Do you get red line rpm when you push everything
> forward? Have you
> calibrated your tach lately? How does the number
> and placement of
> external antennae compare to the RV-9A?
>
> For the record - I would be rather surprised if the
> blunt edge
> control surfaces have much to do with the speed of
> the RV-9A, but
> we'll only know for sure once Mr. Fast-guy does the
> mod.
>
> --
> Kevin Horton RV-8 (misc fuselage
> stuff)
> Ottawa, Canada
> http://members.nbci.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html
Kevin:
Wheelpants and gear leg are the latest ones from
Van's. Two piece pressure recovery fairings and
fiberglass. Tach is RMI Digital. I do not like being
second and will / was turning 2,790 RPM. Two comm
antennas underneath just forward of the spar, one
blade type Xponder middle just forward of the spar,
one Marker beacon just forward of the tailwheel, one
GPS on top just aft of the slider, and Piper blade
type Pitot. This is more antenna than on the RV-9A.
Engine is the equivalent of the one from Bart that is
in the RV-9A. My compression is good. TSMOH, 600.
Scott McDanials wants to run the RV-9A in the
Copperstate dash but Van is not very hot on the idea
per Ken.
Empty weight of the RV-9A is 21 pounds less than mine.
Takeoff weight was about the same with two people on
board both.
====
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
698+ Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.tripod.com
Yahoo! Photos - 35mm Quality Prints, Now Get 15 Free!
http://photos.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Ludwig" <ludwig(at)azstarnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator in trail? |
Hi Are,
I'm at the exact same point. My horns are also misaligned as you described.
A couple of observations on mine:
1) I aligned the counterbalance tips to the HS for the 'in trail' setting.
2) The misaligned horns are not a problem when drilled and the pushrod is
mounted.
3) The pushrod hit bulkhead F-811. Mine is the Quick Build fuse. I had to
grind F-811 down almost to the top center rivet to get clearance.
4) The leading edge of the elevator rubs the HS. I'm going to crank the
rod end bearings out about 1/16" and put a 1/16" spacer behind the center
bearing brackets. This would also give you more clearance where your tips
are rubbing.
This help any?
Bill in Tucson
RV-8...Everything needed to finish the plane is here and almost ready to
start the finish kit.
FYI, I'm working on mine 8 hrs/day 7 days a week - expected completion is
Spring.
-----Original Message-----
From: Are Barstad <abarstad(at)bconnex.net>
Date: Thursday, September 28, 2000 9:42 PM
Subject: RV-List: Elevator in trail?
>
>Thanks a miilion to all that answered my earlier posts!
>
>How do you best determine that the elevator(s) are in trail except aligning
>counter balance skin with HS? I can only see that eye-balling it will be
>best bet due to the taper of the elevator skins. I am about to drill the
>horns to the center bearing and like to make this right since I read many
>horror stories in the archives. I see that some listers say that the
>elevators are NOT in trail when the counter weight skin is aligned with HS.
>How can they tell?
>
>I noticed that one horn is about 1/8" lower than the other when the counter
>balance skins are aligned with HS. Hope this won't cause a big problem for
>push-rod mounting. I guess I either mounted one a bit higher than the other
>when making skeleton or that the weldments are not 100% correct. The
>distance between the horns is consistent from top to bottom though and the
>trailing edge from one elevator to the other looks straight and ok.
>
>Also, the counter balance skins are rubbing the HS skin were the HS tips
are
>to be installed when adjusting the rod-end bolts to specs. Do I back off
>with the bolts or trim the skin (pre-punch).
>
>Will I still be ok with this misalignment of horns?
>
>Are
>RV-8
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Watson" <tcwatson(at)seanet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: rv-8 8a spar bulkhead |
Glenn, others
I don't know if this is of any help at all, but for those of you who have
had your fuselage kit for more than a couple of months: mine just came
Tuesday, of course including the drawings and the appropriate section of the
manual. The point I want to make is that it appears that the fuselage
section of the manual was completely re-written in late May. It now has
separate instructions for those parts where the 8 and the 8A differ. Of
course I haven't started on it yet, but it might be worthwhile to get an
update to that section of the manual.
After 8 hours of unpacking and doing a very nit-picking inventory,
everything is all there as it should be. Those guys at Van's do good work.
Terry Watson
RV-8A #80729 slow build
wings almost, fuselage next
Seattle
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
| Subject: | Re: All Electric on a Budget Questions |
I am intriged by your statement...."If you have two alternators/two
batteries, you don't need an e-bus." I went back and looked at your "mother
of" system as illistrated in Z-4 and also Z-6 and, sure enough, no
essential bus. I don't know how I missed this. I guess I was just so
programed inot the essential bus concept that it MUST be a part of every
system.
.
>
> I think that was done for a twin Comanchie 337 I was helping with.
> A guy from the FAA was there to "help us" and wanted an e-bus structure
> that was more like a learjet. If you have two alternators/two
batteries,
> you don't need an e-bus.
>
> Bob . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator in trail? |
> How do you best determine that the elevator(s) are in trail except
aligning
> counter balance skin with HS?
I just drilled mine and this is what I did.
1) Adjust the bearings so that you have the 1/8" gap as other have said.
2) Level the airplane
3) Clamp the outboard elevator at the counterweights to the horizonal stab
4) Using a digital level, measure the angle of the top and bottom of the
elevator. Do this at different inboard and outboard points as there may be
some variation.
5) Use spacers on your clamp so that the upper angle is the same as the
lower angle. Mine was between 4.5 and 5 degrees.
6) Do the same on both sides so that all angles are equal.
7) Remove one side, recheck angle and drill.
Ross
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Hurlbut" <shurlbut(at)island.net> |
| Subject: | Re: cherry rivet question |
I used the Cherry Max to attach several empennage ribs where space was
limited or the normal rivets didn't drive well. Remember however that if the
plans call for AN4704-4 and Cherry Max Rivet CR3213 4-4 will not work!! The
measuring is totally different. Expense may be the down side but who
wouldn't pay $0.48 for a perfect rivet with the same or more strength as a
regular rivet.
This is how you order the Cherry Max rivet.
Joining 2 pieces 0.025 and 0.032.
Add together thickness of material. 0.025 + 0.032 = 0.057 or .912/16. This
is the 'grip' of the rivet
In this case you would use a CR3213-4-1 rivet if the hole is 1/8 diameter.
Thickness material 0.025+0.032+0.063 = .12 or 1.92/16
Use a CR3213-4-2 Cherry Max. 1.92 is closest to 2.
They can be squeezed with a regular pop rivet gun and do a great job.
Cherry Q are for plugging. CR3242 are oversized rivets. CR3212 is the way to
go.
Hope this helps
Steve Hurlbut
shurlbut(at)island.net
RV-6 emp
C-FSND
Comox, BC, Canada
----- Original Message -----
From: <Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM>
Sent: Thursday, September 28, 2000 5:08 PM
Subject: RV-List: cherry rivet question
>
> i talked to bob avery today and he said that the cherry rivets are as
strong
> as ... however, it is the EXPENSE ($$$$) that's the downside. he said to
> look in wicks, and i see several types: cherry q, cherry max, cherry n
> commercial, and plain cherry. which ones??????????????????? bob
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Sears <sears(at)searnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV Scuttlebutt |
>Heck, the next thing you know we will have to give up sex and beer.
>No aerobatics and no O-360 why live?
I've been watching this thread with interest. I was delighted to see the
RV-9A introduced because it catered to people like me who are
looking for a good cross country machine. I was even more delighted
to see the preliminary performance reports in the latest RVator. This
thread is only adding icing to the cake. No matter what is causing the
extra speed, the airplane is performing well on less horsepower. My
kind of airplane.
When I bought my RV-6A kit, my mission was, and still is, to have a
cute little airplane that would go fast for less money than some of the
other kits. The RV did the trick. I don't need an aerobatic airplane;
but, knowing the airplane is strong doesn't hurt my feelings. My RV is
living up to my expectations just fine. Oh, yeah. Mine is flying on a
150hp engine. Amazingly, it isn't doing too badly when compared to
the RVs my buddies have that have the 160hp and 180hp engines.
Alas, I built my RV-6A too early. Had the RV-9A been around when I
ordered my first kit, I would have built the RV-9A. Now, I'm flying my
RV-6A and would rather not build another two seater. I'll just wait for
the four place and see how that goes. Yeah, I may very well use the
smallest engine for that, too. My four place Cheetah did pretty well on
150 hp. That's why I figured one would do well in my RV. I wasn't
wrong, either.
So, there really is life without the O360. I'm not going to discuss sex
and beer here. :-)
I just wonder when that four place is coming out. Hmmmm.
Jim Sears in KY
RV-6A N198JS (about 70 hours on the tach)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: duckworth interior |
> Should the inside of the duckworths light installation be painted or left
> bare aluminum. Reflectivity tells me not to. What do you think?
Painting the inside white looks better and reflects the light better. Much
more bang for the buck. A large amount of motion picture lighting is done by
bouncing the light off a white surface.
Norman
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ken Glover" <wirraway(at)bravo.net.au> |
| Subject: | Jon J back in Oz |
Hi group,
The following message just came in from Sue
Ball.......
<<>>
Karratha is in northern part of Western Australia,
and Jon made the over water crossing from Cocos
Island.
Cheers,
Ken Glover Hunter Valley Australia
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV Scuttlebutt |
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV Scuttlebutt(9A talk) |
In a message dated 9/29/00 5:35:53 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
sears(at)searnet.com writes:
> I've been watching this thread with interest. I was delighted to see the
> RV-9A introduced because it catered to people like me who are
> looking for a good cross country machine. I was even more delighted
> to see the preliminary performance reports in the latest RVator. This
> thread is only adding icing to the cake. No matter what is causing the
> extra speed, the airplane is performing well on less horsepower. My
> kind of airplane.
My sentiments exactly, except let me add a few more comments. The 9A with
the higher aspect ratio wing: outclimbs, takes off shorter, lands shorter,and
stall's slower. It probably is a lot better IFR airplane. All airplanes are a
compromise, and Van is the master at getting a bunch of goodies in one
airplane. There is no doubt that if I were building an airplane today, it
would be a 9A. I will probably wait to see the 4 place before I build again,
but chances are it will be the 2 seater.
Bernie Kerr, 6A 50 hours, down for paint :>(, SE Fla
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 9a Airframe paint prep |
In a message dated 9/28/00 7:19:35 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
Im7shannon(at)AOL.COM writes:
> Anyway getting to
> the point I am wondering if I get carried away and wind up filling ALL
the
> rivet heads with spot putty and trying to wind up with the smoothest
> possible
> surface, will this make a noticable difference in laminar flow, enough
> anyway
> to reduce drag and increase in cruse speed? Does anyone have any input on
> this? Are plastic airplanes with similar weight and power faster than RVs?
> am I asking too many questions? Is anyone listening? Does anyone else
> besides
> me have a dog named Cleco?
Kevin,
The short answer is NO. No you will not go any faster (that is
perceiveable). The P-40 designers glued split peas to every flush rivet on
the one of their airplanes and could not measure any difference. They
compromised and built them with flush rivets on the leading edges and round
heads elsewhere. ( I have read this and do not know it first hand, but many
other examples make me beleive it is true).
No, do not start spending the time now filling all the rivets while you are
waiting. When you get near the flying stage, you will not want to do the
remaining ones , but you will fill compelled to since you have started.
Bernie Kerr, 6A 50 hours and down for paint :>(
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Peter laurence <plaurenc(at)bellsouth.net> |
Sill trying to sell my RV6 kit. I really have a good deal
contact me off the list and I'll give the details
Peter
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Hughes" <hawk(at)digisys.net> |
| Subject: | Re: cherry rivet question |
One cautionary note on using the CherryMax rivets...
I believe that the published material thickness ranges for the flush rivets
are based on a countersunk installation rather than a dimpled installation.
The difference in overall length will be about .030 for AN3 and .040 for AN4
(basically the depth of the dimple).
Any problems can be avoided by using the special CherryMax depth gauge,
usually about $10.00 from the rivet suppliers.
Hawkeye Hughes
RV-3 Fuselage
-----Original Message-----
From: Steve Hurlbut <shurlbut(at)island.net>
Date: Friday, September 29, 2000 02:35
Subject: Re: RV-List: cherry rivet question
|
|I used the Cherry Max to attach several empennage ribs where space was
|limited or the normal rivets didn't drive well. Remember however that if the
|plans call for AN4704-4 and Cherry Max Rivet CR3213 4-4 will not work!! The
|measuring is totally different. Expense may be the down side but who
|wouldn't pay $0.48 for a perfect rivet with the same or more strength as a
|regular rivet.
|
|This is how you order the Cherry Max rivet.
|Joining 2 pieces 0.025 and 0.032.
|Add together thickness of material. 0.025 + 0.032 = 0.057 or .912/16. This
|is the 'grip' of the rivet
|In this case you would use a CR3213-4-1 rivet if the hole is 1/8 diameter.
|
|Thickness material 0.025+0.032+0.063 = .12 or 1.92/16
|Use a CR3213-4-2 Cherry Max. 1.92 is closest to 2.
|
|They can be squeezed with a regular pop rivet gun and do a great job.
|Cherry Q are for plugging. CR3242 are oversized rivets. CR3212 is the way to
|go.
|
|Hope this helps
|Steve Hurlbut
|shurlbut(at)island.net
|RV-6 emp
|C-FSND
|Comox, BC, Canada
|
|----- Original Message -----
|From: <Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM>
|To:
|Sent: Thursday, September 28, 2000 5:08 PM
|Subject: RV-List: cherry rivet question
|
|
|>
|> i talked to bob avery today and he said that the cherry rivets are as
|strong
|> as ... however, it is the EXPENSE ($$$$) that's the downside. he said to
|> look in wicks, and i see several types: cherry q, cherry max, cherry n
|> commercial, and plain cherry. which ones??????????????????? bob
|>
|>
|
|
|
|
|
|
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LeastDrag93066(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: RV Scuttlebutt |
In a message dated 09/28/2000 7:30:37 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
khorton(at)cyberus.ca writes:
> For the record - I would be rather surprised if the blunt edge
> control surfaces have much to do with the speed of the RV-9A, but
> we'll only know for sure once Mr. Fast-guy does the mod.
>
> --
> Kevin Horton RV-8 (misc fuselage stuff)
> Ottawa, Canada
> http://members.nbci.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html
Hi All,
The "Blunt Edge" trailing edge surfaces I saw on Van's RV-9 had a .032 total
thickness (two pieces of .016).
I think you'll find the "Standard" round trailing edge surfaces are 3/16"
total thickness (diameter).
You can draw your own conclusions on the relative drag from a 5 times sharper
trailing edge.
Jim Ayers
RV-3 N47RV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Crossing The Rocks |
Why not use your oxygen bottle and the performance of your RV and go direct
right over the top? You can go to 17,500 VFR.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: taper wing RV-6 |
Ah, yes. The Fried Six!
First the Chard Six, now the Fried Six. I have a builder friend name of Joe
Boyle - I'm trying to get him to build an RV.
Hal Kempthorne
RV6a N7HK
----- Original Message -----
From: Terry Jantzi <tjantzi(at)netrover.com>
Sent: Thursday, September 28, 2000 10:29 AM
Subject: RV-List: taper wing RV-6
>
> You may have heard the rumours. But now we have proof. Just placed on
> the Ontario Wing web site is a picture of the soon to be flying DF-6,
> which is a RV-6 fuselage with a one-of-kind taper wing. Look for David
> Fried under "Members RV's".
> The Ontario Wing site is <http://www.ontariorvators.org>
>
> Terry Jantzi
> Kitchener, ON
> RV-6 (very square wing)
> --
> <http://www.netrover.com/~tjantzi/terry/> Home Page
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Christie" <billc(at)dancris.com> |
| Subject: | Re: rv-8 8a spar bulkhead |
Glenn,
I'm in the same place you are. Unfortunately George's tape has nothing on
this either. I did see one site where instead of machining a block of wood
to fit between the F804 pieces, they ued several 3/16 bolts with sets of
nuts to adjust the spacing. I plan to assemble all the floor ribs and F804
parts together with bolts and clecos on a bench before putting the assy. in
the jig. I have the longerons bent and the rest of the bulkheads mounted. If
anyone has suggestions for order of assy. / tips on mounting in the jig, I
could use them.
Thanks,
Bill Christie, RV8A, Phoenix.
----- Original Message -----
From: glenn williams <willig10(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Thursday, September 28, 2000 6:39 PM
Subject: RV-List: rv-8 8a spar bulkhead
>
> Guys do any of you on the slow build 8 or 8a fuselage
> spar bulkhead have any good suggestions as to the
> assembly of the unit? I have all the small pieces
> manufactured i.e. the crotch strap, seat floor
> supports etc. etc. but the manual leaves a lot to be
> desired. any help would be appreciated. any ideas?
> thanks in advance
> Glenn Williams
>
> ====
> Glenn Williams
> 8A
> A&P
> N81GW
>
> Yahoo! Photos - 35mm Quality Prints, Now Get 15 Free!
> http://photos.yahoo.com/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: All Electric on a Budget Questions |
I am not sure why. Here is what Bob said.
"It can . . . but to make two machines share a load accurately, the
regulators need to talk to each other. Without paralleling regulators,
one alternator will always either hog the load (the bigger one)
or run full out with the bigger one taking up the difference. This
means that the SD-8 runs either unloaded or fully loaded. Unloaded
means it's not helping, fully loaded means the regulator runs hot
all the time. There's no advantage in doing it and there are
longevity ramifications for allowing the SD-8 to be loaded to
max all the time."
The architecture I am proposing does not have the alternators powering the
same bus at the same time so even though this comment is correct I do not
think it is applicable to what I am proposing. The problem Bob poses exists
when two alternators are trying to power the same bus at the same time. The
system I am proposing is actually two separate electrical systems powering
separate buses. The SD-8 is powering the essential bus and the LD-40 is
powering the main bus. The wiring allows for the essential bus to be run on
just the main battery or by the LD-40 when the SD-8 fails. Diodes keep the
flows going towards the essential bus. Please draw out what I wrote and
follow the electrons. I am by no means an electrical guru I just want to
know why what I have proposed won't work. I need to understand the
architecture of any electrical system I put in my plane even if I go with
Z-6 or Z-8 exactly.
> Ross,
>
> I'm sure you saw Bob's response last night. Basically my understanding of
> what he said is that it is problematic to have two alternators running
full
> time because there's no way to regulate them properly. Once I thought
about
> it it made perfect sense to me. So what seems like a good idea in
principal
> wouldn't work for that reason.
>
> Randy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cole, Ed" <Ed_Cole(at)maximhq.com> |
"'kempthornes'"@matronics.com
Put the bottle down , Hal....put the bottle down.
Ed Cole
Maxim Integrated Products
Bldg. 120 Ext. 6605
> -----Original Message-----
> From: kempthornes [SMTP:kempthornes(at)home.com]
> Sent: Monday, October 30, 2000 8:32 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com; Terry Jantzi
> Subject: Re: RV-List: taper wing RV-6
>
>
> Ah, yes. The Fried Six!
>
> First the Chard Six, now the Fried Six. I have a builder friend name of
> Joe
> Boyle - I'm trying to get him to build an RV.
>
> Hal Kempthorne
> RV6a N7HK
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Terry Jantzi <tjantzi(at)netrover.com>
> To:
> Sent: Thursday, September 28, 2000 10:29 AM
> Subject: RV-List: taper wing RV-6
>
>
> >
> > You may have heard the rumours. But now we have proof. Just placed on
> > the Ontario Wing web site is a picture of the soon to be flying DF-6,
> > which is a RV-6 fuselage with a one-of-kind taper wing. Look for David
> > Fried under "Members RV's".
> > The Ontario Wing site is <http://www.ontariorvators.org>
> >
> > Terry Jantzi
> > Kitchener, ON
> > RV-6 (very square wing)
> > --
> > <http://www.netrover.com/~tjantzi/terry/> Home Page
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Builder's Bookstore" <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Crossing The Rocks |
"Builder's Bookstore"
> Why not use your oxygen bottle and the performance of your RV and go direct
> right over the top? You can go to 17,500 VFR.
>
The lowest passes are south near the Colorado / New Mexico border, and north
near the Colorado / Wyoming border. However depending on the winds and wind
direction, the lowest passes are not always the smoothest passes.
If the winds are calm, just motor on up to 14,000 and cross anywhere you want.
The high central mountains are surely some of the nicest flying there is. If
the winds are marginal, consider north or south or climbing up to around FL180,
or both. If they are too marginal, wait till the next morning.
Probably the worst area during winds at the 13-15,000 foot level is a
north-south pass called Hoosier Pass that runs over Breckenridge between the
Dillon reservior and Buena Vista. Unless you are going to climb up to at least
18,000, I won't fly it anymore if the winds are much more than 15-20 kts.
Andy
Winter Park, CO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "sue gregor" <hailey67(at)hotmail.com> |
REPLY OFF LIST.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Garry Legare <versadek(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV Scuttlebutt |
Gary; do you remember at EAA 62; Ken talking about how the RV 9 Is
taller and longer; maybe that's why it's faster, sure couldn't have
anything to do with the "Ronz" (spelling) skinny little wing. Remember
Ken saying how much slower the "9" can fly. The wing and those lovely
slotted flaps couldn't have anything to do with that, could they?
Garry, "6" finishing, and having a little fun with ya'll.
"Gary A. Sobek" wrote:
>
> --- Kevin Horton wrote:
> > Well, this is interesting to say the least. The
> > problem is that we
> > don't really know whether the RV-9A really does have
> > less drag than
> > Gary's RV-6, or the MT prop is more efficient, or
> > the engine in the
> > RV-9A is maybe putting out a big more power than the
> > one in Gary's
> > aircraft. There are engine-to-engine variations,
> > even between
> > "identical" engines. This is going to be
> > interesting to watch as
> > RV-9As start flying.
> >
> > Which gear leg fairings and wheel pants do you have
> > Gary? Van's
> > latest ones are apparently pretty low drag - could
> > that be a factor?
> > Do you get red line rpm when you push everything
> > forward? Have you
> > calibrated your tach lately? How does the number
> > and placement of
> > external antennae compare to the RV-9A?
> >
> > For the record - I would be rather surprised if the
> > blunt edge
> > control surfaces have much to do with the speed of
> > the RV-9A, but
> > we'll only know for sure once Mr. Fast-guy does the
> > mod.
> >
> > --
> > Kevin Horton RV-8 (misc fuselage
> > stuff)
> > Ottawa, Canada
> > http://members.nbci.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html
>
> Kevin:
>
> Wheelpants and gear leg are the latest ones from
> Van's. Two piece pressure recovery fairings and
> fiberglass. Tach is RMI Digital. I do not like being
> second and will / was turning 2,790 RPM. Two comm
> antennas underneath just forward of the spar, one
> blade type Xponder middle just forward of the spar,
> one Marker beacon just forward of the tailwheel, one
> GPS on top just aft of the slider, and Piper blade
> type Pitot. This is more antenna than on the RV-9A.
> Engine is the equivalent of the one from Bart that is
> in the RV-9A. My compression is good. TSMOH, 600.
> Scott McDanials wants to run the RV-9A in the
> Copperstate dash but Van is not very hot on the idea
> per Ken.
>
> Empty weight of the RV-9A is 21 pounds less than mine.
> Takeoff weight was about the same with two people on
> board both.
>
> ====
> Gary A. Sobek
> "My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
> 698+ Flying Hours So. CA, USA
> http://SoCAL_WVAF.tripod.com
>
> Yahoo! Photos - 35mm Quality Prints, Now Get 15 Free!
> http://photos.yahoo.com/
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Textor" <pincjt(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | RV Climb Performance |
Hi RV Friends,
It sounds like the RV sea-level climb performance is quite good. Anybody
have an idea about climb performance let's say at 10 and 15 thousand.
Thanks and have a good weekend!
Jack Textor
Des Moines, IA
Elevator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Don Parsons" <dap(at)DParsons.com> |
| Subject: | VM 1000 vs EDM-800 |
I would be interested in any thoughts some of you might have regarding a
comparison of the Vision Microsystems VM 1000 to a JPI EDM-800. Thanks in
advance...
-------
Don Parsons
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Electric on a Budget... a proposal |
Let me try to frame this discussion differently. I want use a B&C LD-40 and
SD-8. The combined output is about 50 amps as Bob has stated that the
output of the SD-8 is closer to 10 amps than 8. I want to limit my battery
size to save some weight. I would like to utilize the output of the SD-8 in
normal operation not just in emergencies.
Some things I have learned from this discussion thus far.
1) The SD-8 needs to be hooked up to a battery for noise reduction
purposes. What I don't know is how big this battery has to be. I am
assuming for the moment that this could be a small 1-2 amp battery if it is
not used for helping to start the engine. (Bob has pointed out that the
terminals are not beefy enough on these small batteries to handle the high
loads of a starter)
2) It would be preferable for the SD-8 not to have to depend on a battery
contactor to supply energy to a bus since this wastes 1 amp of its output.
3) The output of the alternator has to be more than what is being used so
the battery can be charged. Bob mentioned a 30% fudge factor. It is hard
for me to imagine that it needs to be this high. I will have to limit my
load off the essential bus to less than 8 amps and my main bus to less than
40 amps for battery charging purposes
4) I do not need a battery contactor in the SD-8 system. Since Figure Z-6
eliminates it, I assume this is appropriate.
5) I can get by with a small main battery (8-10 amps). The only negatives
are cost and finding one with terminals that will stand up to starter
operation.
I have studied all of the "Z" diagrams which Bob has made and can't light on
one that meets all of my desires as stated above. Here is what I am
proposing/pondering at the moment.
I will use the architecture as shown in Z-8 with the following changes.
1) Instead of the SD-8 shunt being attached to the battery contactor and
main battery it will be attached to the plus side of a 1-2 amp RG battery
for noise filtering
2) The plus side of this battery will also be attached to the essential bus
through a diode so that during main battery only operations, power from the
main battery will not go into charging the small 1-2 amp battery.
3) The plus side of this battery will also be attached to an aux power jack
on the panel. (In the event of a duel alternator failure, the 1-2 amp
battery can power my hand held GPS/Com while the 10-13 amp main battery
powers the essential bus)
4) The pathway from the main battery to the essential bus will NOT go
through the battery bus but be direct as shown in Z-1.
5) Now we need a way to power the essential bus with the main alternator
when the SD-8 fails. I have come up with three options.
a) Insert a switch between the battery contactor and the main
bus/essential bus connectoin which would divert power between either bus.
The purpose of this switch is to divet power from the main alternator to the
essential bus and turn the main bus off with one flip of the switch. This
reduces pilot workload but adds a failure point. I don't know if such a
switch exists.
b) Add a switch between the main bus and essential bus. With this
option, when the SD-8 fails, one would shut down the items connected to the
main bus and then flip on the main bus/essential bus feed. Higher pilot
workload but no added switches between the alternator and main bus.
c) Just turn on the main battery/essential bus feed. The main
battery will supply power to the essential bus and the main alternator will
charge the battery.
Other additions I am contemplating
1) Add an SPDT relay between the essential bus and main bus to allow power
from the SD-8 to get to the main bus. This will depend on my load analysis.
If my essential bus is already drawing 8 amps then I won't add this
contactor. If the essential bus is drawing 4 amps, the contactor would
allow me to run 4 amps of goodies on my main bus when the main alternator
fails and the SD-8 is still going.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVer273sb(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | control stick mounting |
Listers,
There has been quite a spread on the front
stick mounting. I have 460 hrs on my 3 year
old RV4 and decided too check how I had done it.
While I was at it I decided too finish the new stick
I had started. I used the bottom ( 2 in above the
pivot to the pushrod attach point) and found the
bushing tight in the stick. Any way I set the stick up
so the grip is 3 in further aft than specs call for.
This proves to be so much better! And the stick is removable
from the bottom assbly. A large radius bend was used to
accp this. Much more comfortable this way!
Stewart Bergner RV 4 Colorado
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | pop rivet length question |
this ole hillbilly needs some clarification. in order to determine proper
rivet length i add together the materials that are to be riveted-no problem.
my question is do i match that with the grip length or total rivet length????
being that i am using universal head, is the length that important??? bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: VM 1000 vs EDM-800 (vs EIS) |
In a message dated 9/29/00 4:11:14 PM Eastern Daylight Time, dap(at)DParsons.com
writes:
> I would be interested in any thoughts some of you might have regarding a
> comparison of the Vision Microsystems VM 1000 to a JPI EDM-800. Thanks in
> advance...
>
Hi Don,
I am not familiar with the JPI unit, but am with the VM1000. I have flown
with two friends 6's several hours with the 1000 and was dead set on putting
one in my airplane. Another friend had the earlier model EIS and after flying
and talking to him , I opted to go for the EIS. It has been the best
electronic gadget that I have put in my airplane. First I am cheap so the
$1300 vs. $3000+ got my attention. Next , it uses about !/3 the panel space.
It's output is very flexible and understandable. It has worked flawlessly
during the first 50 hours and the support while installing it was very good.
It monitors the following items and shows me a large flashing red if any
thing goes out of range: RPM, Manifold Pressure, Oil T&P, 4 CHT's and 4
EGT's, fuel flow rate and pressure, carb temp, OAT, vacum pressure, voltage
and it has a record of total time and time for the last flight. It tells me
when to change tanks. If the red light blinks, it goes to the page with the
bad guy, and I can acknowledge with a button, it goes to steady red until it
comes back into range. It keeps up with how much fuel is on board (provided
you keep telling it how much you add). Tells you how many hours of fuel time
you have at the current burn rate. I think I have hit the highlights, but you
have probably figured by now that I like my EIS unit. I am in no way
associated with EIS except that I use one.
Bernie Kerr, 6A 50 hours and down for paint, SE Fla
________________________________________________________________________________
09/29/2000 01:25:20 PM
I got a set of Team Rocket upper gear leg fairings for a RV-6 if anyone is
interested. I wanted to save the time and grief of scratch building a set
for my RV-4 and thought I could modify a set from a RV-6........I ended up
finding another vendor for a RV-4 fairing set. Team Rocket's F/G work is
among the best I've seen.Contact off post if interested/
Sam Buchanan (at)matronics.com on 09/28/2000 07:36:28 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com; Please respond to Sam Buchanan
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Fairings
Larygagnon(at)AOL.COM wrote:
>
>
> Can anyone on the list tell me where to find fairings for the 6. I saw a
> wing/flap fairing on a 6 at a fly-in last week but couldn't find the
pilot to
> ask whether he made them or bought them. It faired in the flap where it
> comes up against the fuse. I've also heard of a wing/fuse fairing that
is an
> aerodynamic improvement over Van's . Will the Rocket gear fairings fit
on a
> 6 and are they any better then the fiberglass ones I received from Van's?
Well................now that you mentioned Rocket fairings for the RV-6:
http://home.HiWAAY.net/~sbuc/journal/fairings.htm
Sam Buchanan (RV-6 with Rocket fairings)
"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Danny Holder <holder(at)multipro.com> |
| Subject: | RV-9A wing strength |
Question: What is the + and - strength of theRV-9A wing?
Danny Holder
name="holder.vcf"
filename="holder.vcf"
begin:vcard
n:Holder;Danny
url:www.homestead.com/wittlewattles/index.html
adr:;;;;;;
version:2.1
email;internet:www.homestead.com/wittlewattles/index.html
note:Check this site out for hand-crafted baby rattles
fn:Danny Holder
end:vcard
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Hurlbut" <shurlbut(at)island.net> |
In attaching the trim tab horn plans say to use MD-42-BS rivets. I take it
these aren't included in the kit?
Grrrrrrrrrrr. Any other options? How about MK-319-BS?
Steve Hurlbut
shurlbut(at)island.net
RV-6 emp
C-FSND
Comox, BC, Canada
________________________________________________________________________________
What air pressure are you RVers using for the main gear tires on a RV6A?
I did try the archives but was unable to find any information.
Thanks
Rollie & Rod
RV 6A Finishing Kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Wheel/Tire Questions |
In hopes of making airing up my tires a bit easier, I assumed I'd drill a
hole in each wheel pant for access to the tire valve. Before I cut the hole,
I looked around for an attachment which will fit through the hole and onto
the onto the valve stem. The only ones I can find have the head at a 45
degree angle, making direct access through a small hole difficult.
Suggestions?
Also, what's the easy way to jack the airplane to remove a wheel? With my
fiberglass gear leg fairings, there really doesn't seem to be a good place to
attach the little jack point fitting I bought. I'm sure someone'll point out
what I'm missing...
Thanks in advance,
Kyle Boatright - Kennesaw, GA
RV-6 Slider, O-320/Aymar-Demuth
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | tom sargent <sarg314(at)azstarnet.com> |
| Subject: | 6A elect. flap installation |
I searched the archives, but didn't find an answer to my EF kit
question.
The flap actuator weldment is supported by 3 UHMW blocks. One at each
end and one in the center - that's the F-680. I'm clear on where these
go and how they are oriented. However, the kit doesn't seem to include
enough bolts to mount all 3 blocks, or I don't understand how to mount
the F-680.
The kit has exactly what the bag inventory list shows it should, which
is 4 long 3/16" bolts. The drawing shows 2 each being used on the 2 end
blocks, but it doesn't really show the center block, the F-680. How am
I supposed to mount that to the floor, if not with 2 more long 3/16"
bolts?
What am I missing here?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KR2LARRY(at)AOL.COM |
Just received my RV6A QB and was wondering if someone out there could answer
a question for me.
The inside of the fuselage and inside of the wings came without being
primed ,or so I thought.When I called Vans Support they said it was sprayed
with a clear primer made by Sherwin Williams and this is the primer being
used by assemblers in the Philippines.
After talking to a Sherwin Williams representive (representing the
aircraft industry) I have some major concerns.He told me that they nor any
other company makes a clear primer and that the only product they make that
is clear and is used on aluminum is called a primer wash and must be
topcoated within 30 minutes with zinc chromate primer.He also said the wash
alone will not protect the aluminum at all.
I have only seen one other QB and it came completely primed green on
all interior surface .
Any help would be greatly appreciated
And now the fun begins Larry Rhea kr2larry(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Hurlbut" <shurlbut(at)island.net> |
Found them!! In the bag labeled MISC RIVETS.
Logged 1.2 hrs looking for rivet.
Steve Hurlbut
shurlbut(at)island.net
RV-6 emp
C-FSND
Comox, BC, Canada
> Steve Hurlbut wrote:
> >
> >
> > In attaching the trim tab horn plans say to use MD-42-BS rivets. I take
it
> > these aren't included in the kit?
> > Grrrrrrrrrrr. Any other options? How about MK-319-BS?
> >
> > Steve Hurlbut
> > shurlbut(at)island.net
> > RV-6 emp
> > C-FSND
> > Comox, BC, Canada
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KR2LARRY(at)AOL.COM |
Just received my RV6A QB and was wondering if someone out there could answer
a question for me.
The inside of the fuselage and inside of the wings came without being
primed ,or so I thought.When I called Vans Support they said it was sprayed
with a clear primer made by Sherwin Williams and this is the primer being
used by assemblers in the Philippines.
After talking to a Sherwin Williams representive (representing the
aircraft industry) I have some major concerns.He told me that they nor any
other company makes a clear primer and that the only product they make that
is clear and is used on aluminum is called a primer wash and must be
topcoated within 30 minutes with zinc chromate primer.He also said the wash
alone will not protect the aluminum at all.
I have only seen one other QB and it came completely primed green on
all interior surface .
Any help would be greatly appreciated
And now the fun begins Larry Rhea kr2larry(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Garry Legare <versadek(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: (Sherwin Williams Primer) |
Larry,
You have just opened the dreaded Pandora's Box of primers. (Just Kidding) But
this does seem to be an emotional issue with a number of people on the list.
There have been many theories and explanations from many good intentioned
individuals on this list. It is not my intent to hurt anyone's feelings or
insult anyone. My intent is to clear up this Sherwin Williams wash "primer"
issue.
Van's has used and specified "primers" supplied by Sherwin Williams and
sometimes the Philippines aircraft kits seem to use a different shade from week
to week.
I am not a expert about paint and in particular these "primers". However I just
happen to have a friend who is an expert with Sherwin Williams coatings, Mike
Davenport.
I've know Mike for almost thirty years. We have prepped and painted many
aircraft and automobiles together, and until recently he was Western District
Sales manager for SW Automotive Division.
When I got my "6" I couldn't find any of the primer that Vans specified. I
called Mike and asked him where I could find some. When I gave him the part
number, he told me it was a SW Industrial Line product part number, and gave me
the equivalent part number in an automotive product. He asked why I wanted to
use it. I said because Vans said to. Mike said almost word for word what your
unnamed contact said. He also said that I would have to scuff the heck out of it
before coating with anything else including other SW primers if the 30 minute
time frame was exceeded. He stated categorically that it is not a "primer" as in
corrosion inhibiting primer. It is a conversion coating between metal and the
top coat system and that is why it must be top coated within the 30 minute time
frame.
There are many people on the list who think that priming the whole airframe is
unnecessary.
Maybe there right. Who knows, only time will tell, but I do believe this. If you
are going to prime your aircraft, you should at least use a product that the
manufacture recommends for the intended use.
Don't mean preach or to start a war, just enlighten. That's the nice thing about
knowledge, you don't have to use it if you don't want.
Garry, "6" finishing, but stopping to put on my asbestos shorts.
KR2LARRY(at)AOL.COM wrote:
>
> Just received my RV6A QB and was wondering if someone out there could answer
> a question for me.
> The inside of the fuselage and inside of the wings came without being
> primed ,or so I thought.When I called Vans Support they said it was sprayed
> with a clear primer made by Sherwin Williams and this is the primer being
> used by assemblers in the Philippines.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wheel/Tire Questions |
The only ones I can find have the head at a 45
> degree angle, making direct access through a small hole difficult.
> Suggestions?
>
> Also, what's the easy way to jack the airplane to remove a wheel? With my
> fiberglass gear leg fairings, there really doesn't seem to be a good place
to
> attach the little jack point fitting I bought. I'm sure someone'll point
out
> what I'm missing...
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Kyle Boatright - Kennesaw, GA
> RV-6 Slider, O-320/Aymar-Demuth
>
>
Kyle,
I had the same problem with getting to the tire stems and found this
item made the job much easier. Simply a metal extension (straight) that you
screw onto the tire stem through your hole.
VCE5 - 5" VALVE CORE EXTENSION - $6.50 Photo on the web page of
http://www.cleavelandtool.com/
Ed Anderson
Matthews NC
RV-6A N494BW
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott <acepilot(at)win.bright.net> |
| Subject: | Going to be in the area... |
We're flying into DFW (Dallas/Ft. Worth) on Oct. 4, renting a car and
driving to Gainesville. Will be in Gainesville until Oct. 7. Any
projects along the route or in the area that we could visit? Any day as
we'll have wheels while there! Especially a -4. Even better would be to
find a flying -4 as that's what we're building and have never even been
up in one :(
--
--Scott--
1986 Corben Junior Ace N3642
http://corbenflyer.tripod.com/
RV-4 under construction (tail feathers)
Gotta Fly or Gonna Die!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Pardue" <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wheel/Tire Questions |
>
>
>In hopes of making airing up my tires a bit easier, I assumed I'd drill a
>hole in each wheel pant for access to the tire valve. Before I cut the
hole,
>I looked around for an attachment which will fit through the hole and onto
>the onto the valve stem. The only ones I can find have the head at a 45
>degree angle, making direct access through a small hole difficult.
>Suggestions?
>
I got my extension from Cleveland or Avery, but they must be available at
automotive places.
>Also, what's the easy way to jack the airplane to remove a wheel? With my
>fiberglass gear leg fairings, there really doesn't seem to be a good place
to
>attach the little jack point fitting I bought. I'm sure someone'll point
out
>what I'm missing...
The standard way is a wing jack at the wing jack point. It is very secure.
If you want to use the clamp around the gear leg, you'll need to trim your
fairing enough to use it.
By the way, I just got around to installing holes and the Camloc flapper
doors on my wheel pants. Highly recommended. Constantly dismantling the
pants to air up the tires was a real loser.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: pop rivet length question |
>
>this ole hillbilly needs some clarification. in order to determine proper
>rivet length i add together the materials that are to be riveted-no problem.
>my question is do i match that with the grip length or total rivet length????
>being that i am using universal head, is the length that important??? bob
>
The grip length of the rivet is the total material thickness that it
is designed for. So, you need to add the material thicknesses
together (including the depth of any dimple on the inside) to get the
grip length.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (misc fuselage stuff)
Ottawa, Canada
http://members.nbci.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Glenn & Judi <foxinsocks(at)mediaone.net> |
Hi,
I am posting this question on behaf of my brother in law Mike who wants
to pick a custom N number on his new airplane.
-Glenn Gordon
FAR 45.29 says nothing about what I *really* want to know - at least not
that I can see.
Can I register N-HANDSOME? Or N-IDIOT? Probably not - but where are
the
rules for how long the N-number must be (min/max length), forbidden
words,
etc.? I scanned through FAR 45 in general, and I still don't see it.
An
Altavista search turned up nothing either. I can keep looking - but
maybe
you know?
-Mike
________________________________________________________________________________
User-Agent: Microsoft-Outlook-Express-Macintosh-Edition/5.02.2022
| Subject: | Re: Tire Pressure |
| From: | "Denis (Bum) Walsh" <deniswalsh(at)earthlink.net> |
"Denis (Bum) Walsh"
I use 38 but no one else does.
DLW
> From: Rquinn1(at)AOL.COM
> Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com, Rquinn1(at)AOL.COM
> Date: Sat, 30 Sep 2000 00:40:35 EDT
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Tire Pressure
>
>
> What air pressure are you RVers using for the main gear tires on a RV6A?
> I did try the archives but was unable to find any information.
> Thanks
> Rollie & Rod
> RV 6A Finishing Kit
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 6A elect. flap installation |
| From: | "Robert Dickson" <bubba(at)coastalnet.com> |
Tom
I just finished installing the flap actuator, and I didn't find those bolts
either. I just used some of the 3/16 bolts I already had (i don't remember
the size). I just positioned the 680 after I had the end blocks drilled and
in place, and used the 680 holes as a template. Seemed to work out fine.
Robert Dickson
Fayetteville NC
RV-6A QB bouncing from wing to fuse
----------
>From: tom sargent <sarg314(at)azstarnet.com>
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: 6A elect. flap installation
>Date: Sat, Sep 30, 2000, 1:20 AM
>
>
> I searched the archives, but didn't find an answer to my EF kit
> question.
> The flap actuator weldment is supported by 3 UHMW blocks. One at each
> end and one in the center - that's the F-680. I'm clear on where these
> go and how they are oriented. However, the kit doesn't seem to include
> enough bolts to mount all 3 blocks, or I don't understand how to mount
> the F-680.
>
> The kit has exactly what the bag inventory list shows it should, which
> is 4 long 3/16" bolts. The drawing shows 2 each being used on the 2 end
> blocks, but it doesn't really show the center block, the F-680. How am
> I supposed to mount that to the floor, if not with 2 more long 3/16"
> bolts?
>
> What am I missing here?
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: (no subject) |
| From: | "Robert Dickson" <bubba(at)coastalnet.com> |
Larry
got my 6A QB in June - all primed in green.
Robert Dickson
6A Qb fuse
Fayetteville NC
----------
>From: KR2LARRY(at)AOL.COM
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: (no subject)
>Date: Sat, Sep 30, 2000, 1:27 AM
>
>
> Just received my RV6A QB and was wondering if someone out there could answer
> a question for me.
> The inside of the fuselage and inside of the wings came without being
> primed ,or so I thought.When I called Vans Support they said it was sprayed
> with a clear primer made by Sherwin Williams and this is the primer being
> used by assemblers in the Philippines.
> After talking to a Sherwin Williams representive (representing the
> aircraft industry) I have some major concerns.He told me that they nor any
> other company makes a clear primer and that the only product they make that
> is clear and is used on aluminum is called a primer wash and must be
> topcoated within 30 minutes with zinc chromate primer.He also said the wash
> alone will not protect the aluminum at all.
> I have only seen one other QB and it came completely primed green on
> all interior surface .
> Any help would be greatly appreciated
> And now the fun begins Larry Rhea kr2larry(at)aol.com
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Wheel/Tire Questions |
Carry a valve stem extender.
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
----- Original Message -----
From: <KBoatri144(at)AOL.COM>
Sent: Friday, September 29, 2000 11:51 PM
Subject: RV-List: Wheel/Tire Questions
>
>
> In hopes of making airing up my tires a bit easier, I assumed I'd drill a
> hole in each wheel pant for access to the tire valve. Before I cut the
hole,
> I looked around for an attachment which will fit through the hole and onto
> the onto the valve stem. The only ones I can find have the head at a 45
> degree angle, making direct access through a small hole difficult.
> Suggestions?
>
> Also, what's the easy way to jack the airplane to remove a wheel? With my
> fiberglass gear leg fairings, there really doesn't seem to be a good place
to
> attach the little jack point fitting I bought. I'm sure someone'll point
out
> what I'm missing...
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Kyle Boatright - Kennesaw, GA
> RV-6 Slider, O-320/Aymar-Demuth
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry <jerrydd(at)earthlink.net> |
The skins we are using are alclad and do not need to be primed as long
as they are not scratched or come in contact with other metals. The
purpose of priming is to create a layer between these dissimilar metals
so they do not corrode.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill VonDane" <n8vd(at)peoplepc.com> |
Take a look here: http://vondane.com/rv8a/nnumber.htm
Bill VonDane, Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A, N8VD, Fuselage
http://vondane.com/rv8a/
Hi,
I am posting this question on behaf of my brother in law Mike who wants
to pick a custom N number on his new airplane.
-Glenn Gordon
FAR 45.29 says nothing about what I *really* want to know - at least not
that I can see.
Can I register N-HANDSOME? Or N-IDIOT? Probably not - but where are
the
rules for how long the N-number must be (min/max length), forbidden
words,
etc.? I scanned through FAR 45 in general, and I still don't see it.
An
Altavista search turned up nothing either. I can keep looking - but
maybe
you know?
-Mike
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)mindspring.com> |
I have decided that an AOA is a must have in my RV. Since I am near closing
up the wings (if I could get the remaining parts from the previous owner
that is), I thought I had better ask the 'knowledged masses' when it is best
to install such a thing? Any thoughts?
Bill
-4 wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | pincjt(at)ix.netcom.com |
| Subject: | RV8 Elevator HELP |
Hello again,
Getting ready to rivet E609 root rib to the E602 spar. It looks like when I fit
the WD605r
control horn (which is pre-drilled)its first two rivets will be right over the
very edge of the
inboard rib flange. Should I trim the flange just enough to clear the shop side
of the rivet?
Thanks in advance!
Jack Textor
Des Moines, IA
RV8 Elevator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Ludwig" <ludwig(at)azstarnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: clear primer? |
I've never heard of a clear primer either. My QB -8 came same as yours - no
evidence of being primed.
- Bill in Tucson
-----Original Message-----
From: KR2LARRY(at)AOL.COM <KR2LARRY(at)AOL.COM>
Date: Saturday, September 30, 2000 12:44 AM
Subject: RV-List: clear primer?
>
>
>Just received my RV6A QB and was wondering if someone out there could
answer
>a question for me.
> The inside of the fuselage and inside of the wings came without being
>primed ,or so I thought.When I called Vans Support they said it was sprayed
>with a clear primer made by Sherwin Williams and this is the primer being
>used by assemblers in the Philippines.
> After talking to a Sherwin Williams representive (representing the
>aircraft industry) I have some major concerns.He told me that they nor any
>other company makes a clear primer and that the only product they make that
>is clear and is used on aluminum is called a primer wash and must be
>topcoated within 30 minutes with zinc chromate primer.He also said the wash
>alone will not protect the aluminum at all.
> I have only seen one other QB and it came completely primed green on
>all interior surface .
> Any help would be greatly appreciated
> And now the fun begins Larry Rhea kr2larry(at)aol.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Builder's Bookstore" <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wheel/Tire Questions |
"Builder's Bookstore"
KBoatri144(at)AOL.COM wrote:
>
> In hopes of making airing up my tires a bit easier,
I got a standard 3" straight chuck at a local Big A auto parts store for around
$5. They didn't have them on the shelf, but it was in their in-store catalog and
was delivered the next day. I'm sure most auto parts stores can get the same
thing. Just ask the counter guy.
Andy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Glenn & Judi <foxinsocks(at)mediaone.net> |
Hi,
This quesiton is in regard to the three ports on my O-360's engine
driven fuel pump.
Port #1 - Fuel In
Port#2 - Fuel Out
Port#3 - Overflow of some type?????? Is it a standard NPT thread?
Where should it go? Overboard? How far from the exhaust? Is low
pressure hose acceptable? What have other builders done? Where have
they routed this line to?
Thank you,
Glenn Gordon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)bewellnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wheel/Tire Questions |
KBoatri144(at)AOL.COM wrote:
>
> In hopes of making airing up my tires a bit easier, I assumed I'd drill a
> hole in each wheel pant for access to the tire valve. Before I cut the hole,
> I looked around for an attachment which will fit through the hole and onto
> the onto the valve stem.
Avery sells some long extensions. I found some 3" ones as the local Pep Boys auto
parts
>
>
> Also, what's the easy way to jack the airplane to remove a wheel? With my
> fiberglass gear leg fairings, there really doesn't seem to be a good place to
> attach the little jack point fitting I bought. I'm sure someone'll point out
> what I'm missing...
>
Two words: Aircraft Jacks. Our local builders group just bought a set and
everyone who uses them wonders why no one ever thought of this before.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Duane Bentley" <dbentley(at)fuse.net> |
| Subject: | Avionics Visibility |
In looking over the latest state-of-the-art avionics for aircraft, the
question comes up of the practical visibility of electronic screens, such as
the UPS/Apollo MX20, Garmin 430, or Sandel 3380 in an RV cockpit with the
all the sun light streaming in. From those of you who may have experience,
does the sunlight overpower screesn like the MX20, installed in the
traditional center panel?
I was told by one avionics shop this week that the GNC 430 was okay, to a
person either to the left or right of center, but the MX20 was "overpowered"
by external light and wasn't clear when put off of the pilot centerline in a
bright cockpit. Similarly, I flew with a pilot in a Bonanza last week with
a new Sandel 3380 installed directly in front of him. He asked me as a CFII
to help with familiarization with the new box. I could not see anything on
the display from my position in the right seat unless I leaned over the
pilot and became "really familiar". (Good thing no one was in the back
seat!) And the Bonanza is no where near as bright a cockpit as an RV.
Any help here?
Duane Bentley
RV6 QB in process
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Hurlbut" <shurlbut(at)island.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8 Elevator HELP |
Ensure you trim the edges of E602 spar so that both faces of the WD605 sit
flush with no extreme pressure holding it. Mine was close as well. I simply
filed the flange away a little to clear the rivets.
Steve Hurlbut
shurlbut(at)island.net
RV-6 emp
C-FSND
Comox, BC, Canada
----- Original Message -----
From: <pincjt(at)ix.netcom.com>
Sent: Saturday, September 30, 2000 7:18 AM
Subject: RV-List: RV8 Elevator HELP
>
> Hello again,
> Getting ready to rivet E609 root rib to the E602 spar. It looks like when
I fit the WD605r
> control horn (which is pre-drilled)its first two rivets will be right over
the very edge of the
> inboard rib flange. Should I trim the flange just enough to clear the
shop side of the rivet?
> Thanks in advance!
> Jack Textor
> Des Moines, IA
> RV8 Elevator
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: pop rivet length question |
| From: | Don Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com> |
Bob:
You can buy one from Avery's. I built mine. It is a piece of aluminum of
I think .032.
On one side I filed a 1 1/2D deep by 3/32 wide notch for the start length
& next to it a 1/2D deep by 1 1/2D wide notch for the finished gauge.
I did the same on the other side for the 4/32 rivets.
Don Jordan -- 6A finish -- Arlington, Tx -- dons6a(at)juno.com
*****************************************************
>
> this ole hillbilly needs some clarification. in order to determine
> proper
> rivet length i add together the materials that are to be riveted-no
> problem.
> my question is do i match that with the grip length or total rivet
> length????
> being that i am using universal head, is the length that
> important??? bob
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Hurlbut" <shurlbut(at)island.net> |
Well I'm done the emp except for closing up the other side of the horizontal
and vertical stabs.
For you Canadians out there. Can I close them completely or do they need to
be open for an inspection.
Steve Hurlbut
shurlbut(at)island.net
RV-6 emp
C-FSND
Comox, BC, Canada
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kelly Hoffer" <khoffer(at)mindsync.com> |
Does anybody know the weight of a finished RV-4/6 wing or wings, with or
without
flaps, ailerons, and tips?
Just trying to collect some info.
Thanks.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry2DT(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 09/29/00 |
Please delete. Too many "0" messages...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV8DRIVER(at)AOL.COM |
Bill, re: installing the AOA probe in the wing, I drilled the skins for ours
in the right wing during construction since it was easier, but it could be
added after completion without much hassle. There are two hat-shaped plastic
pieces that are held by #40 csk screws below (I think) 0.040" holes in the
skin. These are located 12" back from the tip as measured along the chord
line, not the surface, and are staggered 2'' spanwise because of the drain on
the top fitting. Assuming you have conduit to pull the two 1/8" tubes
through, probably the hardest thing to do after closing up the wing woukd be
the dimples in the skin. Andy Johnson, fuselage.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV8DRIVER(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: improved airfoil studies |
B.S., M.S., PhD.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 6A elect. flap installation |
In a message dated 9/29/00 10:13:07 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
sarg314(at)azstarnet.com writes:
<< How am I supposed to mount that to the floor, if not with 2 more long 3/16"
bolts? >>
It's been awhile but you are correct. I don't remember being short of the
required bolts but I've purchased so many extra bolts as I've gone along that
I probably wouldn't have noticed anyway. I used nutplates for the F-680
bolts so that I can remove them and slide the center inspection cover out
from under the F-680 without having to disassemble the flap actuating tube.
There's probably another (better?) way to do it but it wasn't apparent to me
at the time.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, working on canopy installation and other stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Wheel/Tire Questions |
I was able to order a straight extension, about 6" long, to use exactly as
you describe. I got it through a napa automotive store.
hillw(at)aol.com
RV8A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: (no subject) |
i was once taught that leaving a subject line blank was rude-no offense. we
had a cessena 140 here that was built in the early 50's with NO primer and
showed NO corrosion. CHILL and BUILD!!!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John" <fasching(at)amigo.net> |
| Subject: | Re: improved airfoil studies |
My calendar must be a few months off...is it April 1st already?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John" <fasching(at)amigo.net> |
| Subject: | FSDO and FAA Order 81302D |
>I wanted to have my airworthiness certficate's restrictions (boiler plate
>stuff) changed from those listed in the old FAA Order 8130-1D to the new
FAA
>Order 8130-2D....if you haven't been keeping up on the change, the new
order
>would allow you to make major changes to your aircraft, log the changes, go
>back into Phase ! flight restrictions, fly for 5-hours (min) and if all is
>well make the required log book entries. No involvement with the FAA nor a
>DAR and no paperwork except for the two log book entries. Sounds good. BUT
>
>I sent the required forms with a cover letter (see the Dec 1999 issue of
>Sport Aviation) to the Denver FSDO. They returned my application with a
>cover letter stating that they don't do anything for experimentals anymore
>and I should contact a DAR.
>
>It seems the cover letter they sent me was about the same amount of work as
>just sending me a boiler plate revision to my restrictions and it would
have
>been a done deal.
>
>Now I guess I either forget about it or pay somebody for a piece of paper.
>
>Does anyone know if FSDO's outside of my FSDO's 'area' can/will do the
>change for me?
>
>Without the change I would have to use the old procedure of sending a
>request along with drawings, data, schematics, etc, to a DAR to get
>permission to make a change....and pay through the nose for the privilege
of
>doing the work.....and there is a good chance the DAR wouldn't know as much
>about what I was going to do as I do....
>
>DAS FED: is there any information on the grape vine about when or if FAA
>is going to issue a blanket change for all the old 8230-1D restrictions?
>You know, all they would have to do is to issue one stinking order and the
>matter is settled for EVERYONE...instead we are faced with this need to pay
>somebody for what our tax-supported 'servants' should have already done.
>Comments please
>
>RV6A Flying
>Salida, CO
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
Somebody chime in here but isn't the MD-42-BS equivalent to MSP-42.
I ran into this when I built my tail.
I thought there was a message in the archives pointing to a website
which had a equivalency chart for pop rivets for different manufactures.
Gert
Steve Hurlbut wrote:
>
>
> In attaching the trim tab horn plans say to use MD-42-BS rivets. I take it
> these aren't included in the kit?
> Grrrrrrrrrrr. Any other options? How about MK-319-BS?
>
> Steve Hurlbut
> shurlbut(at)island.net
> RV-6 emp
> C-FSND
> Comox, BC, Canada
>
--
Pursuant to US Code, Title 47, Chapter 5, Subchapter II, '227,
any and all nonsolicited commercial E-mail sent to this address
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
US. E-mailing denotes acceptance of these terms.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Lawson <jwlawson(at)hargray.com> |
| Subject: | Question re: attaching platenuts with AD426 (countersunk head) |
rivets
RV-List Digest Server
A crayon-level question for the assembled multitudes...I'm attaching platenuts
to the E-615 plate that goes in the left elevator of the RV-6 (supports the electric/manual
trim mechanism). The
drawings call for AD426 rivets to attach the platenuts, which means that the E-615
needs to be dimpled. As a general rule, when attaching platenuts with those
rivets, should the platenuts be
dimpled, also? Or should they be countersunk? Or neither? I tried dimpling a
platenut or two, and they won't sit down 100% on the dimples on the E-615.
Semper Fi
John Lawson
RV-6 (plodding my way through the control surfaces...eyeing that wing kit on the
garage floor...)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank and Dorothy <frankv(at)infogen.net.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: Question re: attaching platenuts with AD426 (countersunk |
head) rivets
John Lawson wrote:
>
>
> A crayon-level question for the assembled multitudes...I'm attaching platenuts
to the E-615 plate that goes in the left elevator of the RV-6 (supports the
electric/manual trim mechanism). The
> drawings call for AD426 rivets to attach the platenuts, which means that the
E-615 needs to be dimpled. As a general rule, when attaching platenuts with those
rivets, should the platenuts be
> dimpled, also? Or should they be countersunk? Or neither? I tried dimpling
a platenut or two, and they won't sit down 100% on the dimples on the E-615.
Neither... get yourself some 1097 (cheater) rivets... they have smaller
heads than AD426. So you can machine couintersink thinner materials.
Once I learnt this trick, I only ever used 1097 rivets for attaching
platenets.
Frank.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Tire Pressure |
In a message dated 9/29/00 9:43:35 PM Pacific Daylight Time, Rquinn1(at)AOL.COM
writes:
<< What air pressure are you RVers using for the main gear tires on a RV6A? >>
31 psi all three tires (6A).
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Question re: attaching platenuts with AD426 |
(countersunk head) rivets
>
>A crayon-level question for the assembled multitudes...I'm attaching
>platenuts to the E-615 plate that goes in the left elevator of the
>RV-6 (supports the electric/manual trim mechanism). The
>drawings call for AD426 rivets to attach the platenuts, which means
>that the E-615 needs to be dimpled. As a general rule, when
>attaching platenuts with those rivets, should the platenuts be
>dimpled, also? Or should they be countersunk? Or neither? I tried
>dimpling a platenut or two, and they won't sit down 100% on the
>dimples on the E-615.
>
>Semper Fi
>John Lawson
>RV-6 (plodding my way through the control surfaces...eyeing that
>wing kit on the garage floor...)
>
The best bet is to use the NAS 1097 "cheater" rivets, as they have
small enough heads that you can countersink the skin. They aren't as
strong, but the rivets only hold the platenut in place, so you don't
need much strength.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (misc fuselage stuff)
Ottawa, Canada
http://members.nbci.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
>
>Well I'm done the emp except for closing up the other side of the horizontal
>and vertical stabs.
>For you Canadians out there. Can I close them completely or do they need to
>be open for an inspection.
>
>Steve Hurlbut
>shurlbut(at)island.net
>RV-6 emp
>C-FSND
>Comox, BC, Canada
>
Steve,
The best bet is to leave them open until you can talk to the local
MD-RA inspector to find out what he expects. My local guy said to
partially rivet the second side, but to leave enough rivets out so he
could peel back the skin at each corner to peek inside. That way I
could put enough rivets in to lock the shape and safely take them out
of the jig without worrying about a subsequent twist.
Say Hi to Pete Haggins for me.
Take care,
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (misc fuselage stuff)
Ottawa, Canada
http://members.nbci.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Question re: attaching platenuts with AD426 (countersunk |
head) rivets
>>As a general rule, when attaching platenuts with those rivets, should the
platenuts be
dimpled, also? Or should they be countersunk? Or neither? I tried
dimpling a platenut or two, and they won't sit down 100% on the dimples on
the E-615.<<
John,
Yes, dimple the platenuts. You will either need to grind a flat spot on one
side of your female dimple die or buy one already ground (female only).
Avery sells them. You will end up using it a fair amount through the project
so I recommend you just add it to your tool shopping list.
Randy Lervold
www.rv-8.com
Home Wing VAF
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 9/30/00 10:14:35 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
billshook(at)mindspring.com writes:
> I have decided that an AOA is a must have in my RV. Since I am near closing
> up the wings (if I could get the remaining parts from the previous owner
> that is), I thought I had better ask the 'knowledged masses' when it is
best
> to install such a thing? Any thoughts?
Hi Bill,
You can easily install the propriotary systems one after you have closed the
wing. It is easy if the wing tip is off and the fuel tank is off.
Bernie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | glenn williams <willig10(at)yahoo.com> |
your N # will be a max of 5 numbers after the N i.e
N61282 or you may register it as N323WW or even a two
letter N# is possible but here in the good ole USA
only the last two are allowed to be letters other than
the N all others will be numbers
--- Bill VonDane wrote:
>
>
> Take a look here:
> http://vondane.com/rv8a/nnumber.htm
>
> Bill VonDane, Colorado Springs, CO
> RV-8A, N8VD, Fuselage
> http://vondane.com/rv8a/
>
>
>
> Hi,
> I am posting this question on behaf of my brother in
> law Mike who wants
> to pick a custom N number on his new airplane.
>
> -Glenn Gordon
>
> FAR 45.29 says nothing about what I *really* want to
> know - at least not
>
> that I can see.
>
> Can I register N-HANDSOME? Or N-IDIOT? Probably
> not - but where are
> the
> rules for how long the N-number must be (min/max
> length), forbidden
> words,
> etc.? I scanned through FAR 45 in general, and I
> still don't see it.
> An
> Altavista search turned up nothing either. I can
> keep looking - but
> maybe
> you know?
>
> -Mike
>
>
>
> through
>
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
> Matronics!
>
>
>
>
>
====
Glenn Williams
8A
A&P
N81GW
Yahoo! Photos - 35mm Quality Prints, Now Get 15 Free!
http://photos.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net> |
| Subject: | Dual Brake Pedals RV6-A-QB |
List: I am installing the Rudder and Brake assemblies in my RV6-A-QB and
wanted to put a question to the Builders who have been there done that.
Has anyone put the Brake Pedals on a 5 to 10 Degree forward slant? I
have really big feet (# 12's) and thought this might avoid getting Brake
when I want Rudder.
Does anyone on the list have a website with pictures of the Dual brake
set-up for an RV-6?
Thanks Tom in Ohio (Finish Kit)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)emailusa.net> |
Bill, it probably depends which AOA system you are using. I've got the PSS
and the parts that go in the wing can probably be done after the wing is
completed but I will be installing mine just after skinning the wing. The
wing skin has to be attached in order to accurately measure where the ports
need to be drilled. One port will go on one side of the outside rib and the
other port will go on the inboard side of the outside rib and should be easy
to reach through the lightening hole.
Maybe Bernie Kerr will see your message and give some insight since he's got
his installed and flying.
Mike Nellis - RV-6 Wings N699BM (res)
Plainfield, IL
http://mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)mindspring.com>
Sent: Saturday, September 30, 2000 10:12 AM
Subject: RV-List: AOA
>
> I have decided that an AOA is a must have in my RV. Since I am near
closing
> up the wings (if I could get the remaining parts from the previous owner
> that is), I thought I had better ask the 'knowledged masses' when it is
best
> to install such a thing? Any thoughts?
>
> Bill
> -4 wings
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg Tanner" <gtanner(at)bendcable.com> |
When I called the FAA Aircraft Registry #, 2 digit numbers are running out.
Not a lot of choices left. Quite a few 3 digit ones though.
Greg Tanner
RV-9A Empennage
SER #90186 N80BR (APPLIED FOR)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of glenn williams
Sent: Saturday, September 30, 2000 3:28 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: N Number
your N # will be a max of 5 numbers after the N i.e
N61282 or you may register it as N323WW or even a two
letter N# is possible but here in the good ole USA
only the last two are allowed to be letters other than
the N all others will be numbers
--- Bill VonDane wrote:
>
>
> Take a look here:
> http://vondane.com/rv8a/nnumber.htm
>
> Bill VonDane, Colorado Springs, CO
> RV-8A, N8VD, Fuselage
> http://vondane.com/rv8a/
>
>
>
> Hi,
> I am posting this question on behaf of my brother in
> law Mike who wants
> to pick a custom N number on his new airplane.
>
> -Glenn Gordon
>
> FAR 45.29 says nothing about what I *really* want to
> know - at least not
>
> that I can see.
>
> Can I register N-HANDSOME? Or N-IDIOT? Probably
> not - but where are
> the
> rules for how long the N-number must be (min/max
> length), forbidden
> words,
> etc.? I scanned through FAR 45 in general, and I
> still don't see it.
> An
> Altavista search turned up nothing either. I can
> keep looking - but
> maybe
> you know?
>
> -Mike
>
>
> through
>
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
> Matronics!
>
>
====
Glenn Williams
8A
A&P
N81GW
Yahoo! Photos - 35mm Quality Prints, Now Get 15 Free!
http://photos.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
Mike,
One suggestion. I installed mine after the wing was all riveted together.
It wasn't difficult at all but it was a hassle getting a good dimple for the
mounting screws. If I had the opportunity to install the ports before the
skins were rivet I would do so. You can measure the locations of the ports
while the wing is clecoed together and then dimple the screw holes on your
C-frame tool. This will give you a much smoother skin over the ports.
Rick McBride
80027
In a message dated 9/30/00 6:47:18 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
mnellis(at)emailusa.net writes:
<< Bill, it probably depends which AOA system you are using. I've got the PSS
and the parts that go in the wing can probably be done after the wing is
completed but I will be installing mine just after skinning the wing. The
wing skin has to be attached in order to accurately measure where the ports
need to be drilled. One port will go on one side of the outside rib and the
other port will go on the inboard side of the outside rib and should be easy
to reach through the lightening hole.
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)emailusa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Question re: attaching platenuts with AD426 (countersunk |
head) rivets
I don't know what kind of plate nuts your using, but my attempt to dimple
plate nuts just resulted in mangled plate nuts even though I ground the
dimple dies. I finally wound up just buying a bunch of predimpled plate
nuts from Averys.
Mike Nellis - RV-6 Wings N699BM (res)
Plainfield, IL
http://mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page
----- Original Message -----
From: "Randy Lervold" <randy@rv-8.com>
Sent: Saturday, September 30, 2000 5:46 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Question re: attaching platenuts with AD426
(countersunk head) rivets
>
> >>As a general rule, when attaching platenuts with those rivets, should
the
> platenuts be
> dimpled, also? Or should they be countersunk? Or neither? I tried
> dimpling a platenut or two, and they won't sit down 100% on the dimples on
> the E-615.<<
>
>
> John,
>
> Yes, dimple the platenuts. You will either need to grind a flat spot on
one
> side of your female dimple die or buy one already ground (female only).
> Avery sells them. You will end up using it a fair amount through the
project
> so I recommend you just add it to your tool shopping list.
>
> Randy Lervold
> www.rv-8.com
> Home Wing VAF
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)emailusa.net> |
Bernie, why does the tank need to be off?
Mike Nellis - RV-6 Wings N699BM (res)
Plainfield, IL
http://mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page
----- Original Message -----
From: <Rv660wm(at)AOL.COM>
Sent: Saturday, September 30, 2000 5:49 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: AOA
>
> In a message dated 9/30/00 10:14:35 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
> billshook(at)mindspring.com writes:
>
> > I have decided that an AOA is a must have in my RV. Since I am near
closing
> > up the wings (if I could get the remaining parts from the previous
owner
> > that is), I thought I had better ask the 'knowledged masses' when it is
> best
> > to install such a thing? Any thoughts?
>
>
> Hi Bill,
>
> You can easily install the propriotary systems one after you have closed
the
> wing. It is easy if the wing tip is off and the fuel tank is off.
>
> Bernie
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)emailusa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Dual Brake Pedals RV6-A-QB |
Tom, check out this page of my web site. Although it doesn't show both
sides, I'm pretty sure this was a dual brake setup.
http://www.mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page/mark_krohn_ideas.htm
Mike Nellis - RV-6 Wings N699BM (res)
Plainfield, IL
http://mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net>
Sent: Saturday, September 30, 2000 6:48 PM
Subject: RV-List: Dual Brake Pedals RV6-A-QB
>
> List: I am installing the Rudder and Brake assemblies in my RV6-A-QB and
> wanted to put a question to the Builders who have been there done that.
> Has anyone put the Brake Pedals on a 5 to 10 Degree forward slant? I
> have really big feet (# 12's) and thought this might avoid getting Brake
> when I want Rudder.
> Does anyone on the list have a website with pictures of the Dual
brake
> set-up for an RV-6?
> Thanks Tom in Ohio (Finish Kit)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bcbraem(at)home.com |
| Subject: | Re: O-360 Fuel Pump |
Glenn & Judi--
Correct: overflow.
any avgas resistant open ended tubing will do.
terminate tubing at a reasonable distance from the exhaust pipes,
usually at one side or other of the lower cowling exhaust vent.
I believe the fitting is NTP, but I'd have to go down to the hangar to
check the parts list. It's a 90 degree fitting.
>
>
> Hi,
> This quesiton is in regard to the three ports on my O-360's engine
> driven fuel pump.
>
> Port #1 - Fuel In
> Port#2 - Fuel Out
> Port#3 - Overflow of some type?????? Is it a standard NPT thread?
> Where should it go? Overboard? How far from the exhaust? Is low
> pressure hose acceptable? What have other builders done? Where have
> they routed this line to?
>
> Thank you,
> Glenn Gordon
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "skybolt-aviator" <skybolt-aviator(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tire Pressure |
"skybolt-aviator"
I start at 32 psi and before very long it's down to 17psi. For some reason
A/C tubes don't hold air very well.
Ollie&Lorene Washburn
RV6-A,N795LW,@FD77.
O-360,180HP,C/S,300+hrs.
----- Original Message -----
From: <Rquinn1(at)AOL.COM>
Sent: Saturday, September 30, 2000 12:40 AM
Subject: RV-List: Tire Pressure
>
> What air pressure are you RVers using for the main gear tires on a RV6A?
> I did try the archives but was unable to find any information.
> Thanks
> Rollie & Rod
> RV 6A Finishing Kit
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "skybolt-aviator" <skybolt-aviator(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wheel/Tire Questions |
"skybolt-aviator"
----- Original Message -----
From: <KBoatri144(at)AOL.COM>
Sent: Saturday, September 30, 2000 12:51 AM
Subject: RV-List: Wheel/Tire Questions
> Cleaveland Aircraft Tool has a straight extension (about 6") that works
very well.I just drilled mine and got plug caps from Home Depot
$5.50---#800 368 1822.
Ollie&Lorene Washburn
RV6-A,N795LW,@FD77.
O-360,180HP,C/S,300+hrs.
>
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Kyle Boatright - Kennesaw, GA
> RV-6 Slider, O-320/Aymar-Demuth
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Air Compressor |
In a message dated 9/30/00 6:44:45 PM Mountain Daylight Time,
dani_estrada(at)infosel.net.mx writes:
<< Amps: 15.0/7.5 (What the hell this nummers mean?) >>
At 120 volts it runs at 15 amps, or 7.5 amps at 240 Volts. Usually requires
switching a few wires to run at 240 Volts.
Mine is a 3 HP 20 Gal. Tank. Will run rivet guns forever. Has been no problem
with a spray gun for priming, but won't always keep up when using an air
driven die grinder. But even that has not really been a problem.
One note: I didn't see whether this compressor was belt driven or the
oil-less type. The oil-less type are very high pitched in the sound
department & will drive you , or neighbors crazy if you have to listen to it.
Go for the belt driven compressors!!
Larry Adamson RV6A--- finish
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Tire Pressure |
Aviation tubes to meet the TSO for flexibility at 40 below are natural
rubber. Natural rubber is not as air tight as the later synthetic rubber in
you car. You are probably too young to remember having to fill your auto
tires weekly in the 40s!!! When butyl synthetic rubber came out this changed
but the synthetic rubber doesn't meet the FAA rules for low temp operations.
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
----- Original Message -----
From: "skybolt-aviator" <skybolt-aviator(at)email.msn.com>
Sent: Saturday, September 30, 2000 7:09 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Tire Pressure
>
> I start at 32 psi and before very long it's down to 17psi. For some reason
> A/C tubes don't hold air very well.
> Ollie&Lorene Washburn
> RV6-A,N795LW,@FD77.
> O-360,180HP,C/S,300+hrs.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <Rquinn1(at)AOL.COM>
> To:
> Sent: Saturday, September 30, 2000 12:40 AM
> Subject: RV-List: Tire Pressure
>
>
> >
> > What air pressure are you RVers using for the main gear tires on a RV6A?
> > I did try the archives but was unable to find any information.
> > Thanks
> > Rollie & Rod
> > RV 6A Finishing Kit
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Air Compressor |
danny, i have cambell... 5hp.-20 gal. works great for everything you
mentioned, HOWEVER check out home depot. I paid approx. $375 for mine last
year.
the px you mention is waaaaaayyyyy to much. bob in arkansas doin wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Air Compressor |
correction i have 5 hp and 26 gal. you can beat that price easily. bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Dual Brake Pedals RV6-A-QB |
On 30 Sep 2000, at 18:48, Tom & Cathy Ervin wrote:
> List: I am installing the Rudder and Brake assemblies in my RV6-A-QB
> and wanted to put a question to the Builders who have been there done
> that.
> Has anyone put the Brake Pedals on a 5 to 10 Degree forward
> slant?
I modified mine to slant forward. I don't know the number of degrees, I
just tried various angles until it felt right.
Tim
******
Tim Lewis -- Springfield VA
RV-6A N47TD - First Flight 18 Dec 99
TimRV6A(at)earthlink.net
http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Air Compressor |
I have this same compressor also. It works great, though I haven't used it
for building yet. The only problem I have had with Campbell Hausfield so far
is service. I had a small plastic part on the air filter break and have a
TERRIBLE time getting it replaced. I have gone to the local folks as well as
CH directly. No one wants to talk to me for a $2.00 part.
I need to break at least $25 worth of stuff for them to order me any parts.
That stinks
Bob
East Bethel, MN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Weiler" <doug.weiler(at)pressenter.com> |
Fellow Listers:
About a month ago, I was afforded the opportunity to purchase a friends
flying RV-4. I personally saw this aircraft built back in 1993 and it was a
jewel then and still is. Last week I sold my Citabria and today I flew the
RV from Tucson to Minneapolis. A very pleasant trip. Weather was perfect.
1250 nm in 7:20 of flying. Two stops. I averaged 171 kts GS (from t/o to
touchdown) and averaged 8.2 gph (this is a AEIO-360 with a C/S prop). Rock
solid and stable at 9500 ft truing 175 kts. They are truly a great machine.
Now I just have to perfect my landings.
Anyway I still am working on my "other" RV-4 which is still a year or so
away from completion.
Keep up the work. It is worth it!!
Doug Weiler,
Hudson, WI
pres MN Wing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Im7shannon(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Air Compressor |
Hi Daniel, that compressor will run everything you need, die grinders and
paint guns ect. You can run a rivet gun with a lot smaller one, but drills
and other tools need alot of air.
Kevin in WA state
-9A painting wings, waiting for fuse kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Christie" <billc(at)dancris.com> |
Bill,
I put mine in before riveting the leading edge to the spar. It is in the
second bay from the outboard end. It may be possible to install with the
wing buttoned up, but I sure wouldn't want to do it. I can reach the
connections in mine from the tip, but just barely. I have a light in the
outer bay on each wing.
Bill Christie, RV8A fuselage, Phoenix
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Shook" <billshook(at)mindspring.com>
Sent: Saturday, September 30, 2000 7:12 AM
Subject: RV-List: AOA
>
> I have decided that an AOA is a must have in my RV. Since I am near
closing
> up the wings (if I could get the remaining parts from the previous owner
> that is), I thought I had better ask the 'knowledged masses' when it is
best
> to install such a thing? Any thoughts?
>
> Bill
> -4 wings
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ralph E Zinkham <reagle(at)nauticom.net> |
10/1/00
Tim,
I have all the info that you compiled for the RV List on the stall
warner, and was wondering how the stall warning is operating for you. I
fabed the limit switch bracket as per photo, and I'am about to mount it
in the wing. Anything you would do different here?
Regards,
Ralph Zinkham
reagle(at)nauticom.net
RV6A (About ready to hang the prop, finished the panel)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Barnes" <skytop(at)corecomm.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Question re: attaching platenuts with AD426 (countersunk |
head) rivets
John,
I use oops rivits to attach platenuts and countersink rather than
dimple. It takes 10 - 12 turns on the Avery deburring tool to create the
countersink.
Tom Barnes
----- Original Message -----
From: John Lawson <jwlawson(at)hargray.com>
Sent: Saturday, September 30, 2000 4:30 PM
Subject: RV-List: Question re: attaching platenuts with AD426 (countersunk
head) rivets
>
> A crayon-level question for the assembled multitudes...I'm attaching
platenuts to the E-615 plate that goes in the left elevator of the RV-6
(supports the electric/manual trim mechanism). The
> drawings call for AD426 rivets to attach the platenuts, which means that
the E-615 needs to be dimpled. As a general rule, when attaching platenuts
with those rivets, should the platenuts be
> dimpled, also? Or should they be countersunk? Or neither? I tried
dimpling a platenut or two, and they won't sit down 100% on the dimples on
the E-615.
>
> Semper Fi
> John Lawson
> RV-6 (plodding my way through the control surfaces...eyeing that wing kit
on the garage floor...)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Cost of International Flying |
>
>This week I received in the mail a bill from NAV CANADA (their FAA) for
>CDN$14.71. This was CHARGES FOR AIR NAVIGATION SERVICES PROVIDED OR
>MADE AVAILABLE BY NAV CANADA. As required, I had filed flight plans to
>cross the border each time. I had landed at a towered airport in Canada
>and had made a couple of position reports when departing Canada. There
>was no indication as to how the charge was computed.
>
Will,
Our ATC system was privatized a few years ago, and the new entity is
called Nav Canada. Transport Canada (who used to run ATC) is the
equivalent to the FAA for everything else to do with civil aviation.
The Nav Canada fees are explained at:
http://www.navcanada.ca/publications/downloads/guidee.pdf
Basically, for light aircraft you pay an annual or quarterly flat
fee. Heavier aircraft may get additional charges based on how much
they actually use the system, but light aircraft are exempt from
"movement based charges". So, you paid $14.50 (less a temporary 0.75
discount) and a 7% tax. Hardly seems like the amount would cover the
administrative costs of tracking you down and billing you, so I'm not
sure why they even bother.
Another useful thing if you are flying a homebuilt to Canada is the
online document that validates your certificate of airworthiness so
it is valid in Canada. You used to have to get special authorization
ahead of time - now you just print out the online document and carry
it with you.
http://www.tc.gc.ca/aviation/mainten/regs&docs/Standardised%20Validation.doc
Take care,
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (misc fuselage stuff)
Ottawa, Canada
http://members.nbci.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobby Hester <bhester(at)apex.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 75 Msgs - 09/30/00 |
RV-List Digest Server wrote:
> From: Glenn & Judi <foxinsocks(at)mediaone.net>
> Subject: RV-List: N Number
>
>
> Hi,
> I am posting this question on behaf of my brother in law Mike who wants
> to pick a custom N number on his new airplane.
>
> -Glenn Gordon
>
> FAR 45.29 says nothing about what I *really* want to know - at least not
>
> that I can see.
>
> Can I register N-HANDSOME? Or N-IDIOT? Probably not - but where are
> the
> rules for how long the N-number must be (min/max length), forbidden
> words,
> etc.? I scanned through FAR 45 in general, and I still don't see it.
> An
> Altavista search turned up nothing either. I can keep looking - but
> maybe
> you know?
>
> -Mike
Here it is straight from the horses mouth:
Sec. 47.15 Identification number.
(b) A U.S. identification number may not exceed five symbols in addition to
the prefix letter "N". These symbols may be all numbers (N10000), one to four
numbers and one suffix letter (N 1000A), or one to three numbers and two
suffix letters (N 100AB). The letters "I" and "O" may not be used. The first
zero in a number must always be preceded by at least one of the numbers 1
through 9.
--
Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/
And see my Rans S12xl experimental aircraft, while I dreaming of an RV6A
Updated 9/22/00 - New Look!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Prime or not prime..? |
--- "Daniel Estrada F." wrote:
>
>
> Hola Amigos:
>
> Im almost ready to start building my empenage (Im so excited..!), but
> I
> have a doubt...Can I prime all parts BEFORE drill, deburr, etc..?
When considering priming, remember this. Unless you live near the
coast, the primary reason to prime is to have a layer of paint between
metal. Many folks prime the inside of skins only where the ribs will
attach.
In keeping with this thought, if you prime and then drill, deburr and
dimple, you will likely remove some primer in exactly the spot you want
to have it.
Therefore, always drill, deburr and dimple before priming. There will
be times when assemblies have to be drilled after they are put
together, and your can simply touch up before riveting on additional
pieces.
Have fun!!
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Fuselage (and finish kit shipped last week - talk about _excited_!)
Yahoo! Photos - 35mm Quality Prints, Now Get 15 Free!
http://photos.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Brick" <jbrick(at)wolfenet.com> |
RV-6 180hp CS Hartzell.
225 TTAF.
Engine 1300 SMOH.
VFR panel with RKY MTN monitor and encoder.
IIMorrow GPS in panel.
Elec flaps and elev trim.
Two landing lights.
Hangared at Tacoma Narrows Airport (TIW).
Tacoma, WA
$57,000
Call John at 253-853-3099. Evenings best.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
Ralph E Zinkham
| Subject: | Re: stall warning |
> Tim,
> I have all the info that you compiled for the RV List on the stall
> warner, and was wondering how the stall warning is operating for you.
> I fabed the limit switch bracket as per photo, and I'am about to mount
> it in the wing. Anything you would do different here?
I'm very happy with it. It provides aural warning of impending stall at
a very low cost.
I think aural warning of impending stall is important. On a flight a few
months ago we were orbiting off the approach end of the runway (at
tower's direction) waiting our turn to land, while scanning for traffic
comming from many different directions. I got too slow, and the stall
horn warned me before I got into trouble. Without the horn, I might
have stalled at fairly low altitutde because I allowed my attention to
focus on collision avoidance rather than flying the plane.
Tim
******
Tim Lewis -- Springfield VA
RV-6A N47TD - First Flight 18 Dec 99
TimRV6A(at)earthlink.net
http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: EIS website was VM 1000 vs EDM-800 (vs EIS) |
http://hometown.aol.com/enginfosys/
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: O320 C/S for sale |
I have a good friend that asked me to post this message. He has been bitten
by the more power bug. He has a 0320 C/S In his flying RV6A But wants a O360
C/S. He wants to sell his 0320 C/S or trade his engine for a O360 C/S.core.
You can come and fly his plane with the engine. He will sell It firewal
foreward with all accessories. He is a A&P and an Engineer by profession. He
has rebuilt about 5 engines that I am aware of ,including mine. He is trying
to figure the trade or sale in which his plane will be down the least amout
of time. He can be reached at RLiles(at)indmolding.com Or home PH 806 794
7336 Terry E. Cole
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | EARL FORTNER <e.fortner(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | RV4 canopy frame |
I am fitting the front and rear side skins on the RV4 tip up canopy
frame prior to drilling the canopy. It appears the front skin goes
under the bow and on top of the curved bar where the two intersect.
It looks like the rear skin goes on top of the bow. How do you handle
the place where they join with the front skin on bottom and rear skin
on top there is a 7/16 gap at the bow. I am puzzled. Help please.
Earl, scratching my head
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Prime or not prime..? |
dani, some guys do but you will end up knicking and chipping some off unless
you expox enam. i know of a builder in this area that does it all at once.
just mark you parts well. bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Peter laurence <plaurenc(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Question re: attaching platenuts with AD426 (countersunk |
head) rivets
John,
You can also purchase the nutplates already dimpled.
Peter
John Lawson wrote:
>
>
> A crayon-level question for the assembled multitudes...I'm attaching platenuts
to the E-615 plate that goes in the left elevator of the RV-6 (supports the
electric/manual trim mechanism). The
> drawings call for AD426 rivets to attach the platenuts, which means that the
E-615 needs to be dimpled. As a general rule, when attaching platenuts with those
rivets, should the platenuts be
> dimpled, also? Or should they be countersunk? Or neither? I tried dimpling
a platenut or two, and they won't sit down 100% on the dimples on the E-615.
>
> Semper Fi
> John Lawson
> RV-6 (plodding my way through the control surfaces...eyeing that wing kit on
the garage floor...)
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
I've been delighted with my EIS 4000 engine monitor. It monitors all 4
CHTs and EGTs simultaneously (no need to switch between cyliners),
RPM, manifold pressure, fuel pressure, Oil Temp, Oil Pressure, OAT,
fuel flow/fuel remaining, and carb air temp (the carb air temp probe is
being redesigned, should be shipping soon). Alarm limits can be set
for each parameter, and a big red light (located in center of one's
instrument scan) flashes when any parameter exceeds your choosen
limits. The alarm can also be programmed to remind you to switch
tanks, and to warn of shock cooling. It has graphical and numeric
pages for leaning, so you can choose whichever method you like.
It's a great unit for the price, and Greg (the owner) is VERY responsive
to customer ideas and concerns.
- Back when I was looking at engine montiors the RMI units would not
monitor all 4 cylinders simultaneously, and they didn't have any plans
to upgrade.
- I would not even consider the JPI unit, because those rotten
bastards sued Matt Dralle.
Tim
No connection to EIS, except I own a unit
******
Tim Lewis -- Springfield VA
RV-6A N47TD - First Flight 18 Dec 99
TimRV6A(at)earthlink.net
http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wheel/Tire Questions |
Kyle, I kept waiting for somebody to suggest the RV Axle Jack Kit
offered by Cleaveland Tools.......but nobody has so far.
This is a gadget that inserts into the hollow axle and provides a lift
point for a bottle or floor jack. I have used it numerous times and it
works like a charm.
You can get more info from Cleaveland.
Sam Buchanan (RV-6)
"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
========================
KBoatri144(at)AOL.COM wrote:
>
>
> In hopes of making airing up my tires a bit easier, I assumed I'd drill a
> hole in each wheel pant for access to the tire valve. Before I cut the hole,
> I looked around for an attachment which will fit through the hole and onto
> the onto the valve stem. The only ones I can find have the head at a 45
> degree angle, making direct access through a small hole difficult.
> Suggestions?
>
> Also, what's the easy way to jack the airplane to remove a wheel? With my
> fiberglass gear leg fairings, there really doesn't seem to be a good place to
> attach the little jack point fitting I bought. I'm sure someone'll point out
> what I'm missing...
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Kyle Boatright - Kennesaw, GA
> RV-6 Slider, O-320/Aymar-Demuth
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM |
tim, how can i get in touch with vendor?? i need a specific addy-the yellow
page search turned up some british pearl vendor :) thanks, bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Aronson <aronsond(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV4 canopy frame |
Earl:
The front skin dips unter the front rale of the frame but goes ontop of
the side, flat bar support (the one that is drilled for the latch handle
on the tip up side and is plane on the hinge side. It buts up to the
side skin. I will send you a picture in the next day or so. I have
lost my organization for pictures (really never had any).
Dave Aronson
RV4 N504RV
FWF
EARL FORTNER wrote:
>
>
> I am fitting the front and rear side skins on the RV4 tip up canopy
> frame prior to drilling the canopy. It appears the front skin goes
> under the bow and on top of the curved bar where the two intersect.
> It looks like the rear skin goes on top of the bow. How do you handle
> the place where they join with the front skin on bottom and rear skin
> on top there is a 7/16 gap at the bow. I am puzzled. Help please.
> Earl, scratching my head
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry <jerrydd(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Builders in Shreveport |
Anyone in the Shreveport Louisiana area interested in building RV's
contact me at jerrydd(at)earthlink.net In the past I have built a 6A and
helped on an 8, Anyone interested in forming a builders group or just
getting together to talk RV's E-Mail me.
Jerry Doyal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John McMahon <rv6(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Lebanon Tn RV FLY IN |
For those fine folks that fly, build ,or interested R V ers
there will be a fly-in Oct 7th Sat,rain date 8th ,Sunday
at Lebanon,Tn..You say where is it??
20 miles east of NASHVILLE,TN
Thanks
John McMahon
RV6 Fus skins
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV8DRIVER(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Builders in Jacksonville, Fl |
Any builders in the Jax area that wouldn't mind a visit? I will be in the
area from time to time and would like to touch base. Andy Johnson, Boca
Raton, Fl, -8 fuselage parts fabrication, waiting for drier weather to prime.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ken Glover" <wirraway(at)bravo.net.au> |
| Subject: | Jon J back home!!! |
Hi to all,
The following message has just been received from
Sue Ball............
<<<<>>>>
Anyone wanting to send Jon a message, his address
is jonj(at)writeme.com
Cheers and take care,
Ken Glover Hunter Valley Australia
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "rvs 4all" <rvs4all(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | unfinished RV kit wanted |
I'm looking for ANY type of RV project that's not completed beyond the
"quick build" state. Any kit that has been put together aesthetically
nicely and primed up to this point will be considered.
email me offline with info.
frank
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "rvs 4all" <rvs4all(at)hotmail.com> |
I'm looking for ANY type of RV project that's not completed beyond the
"quick build" state. Any kit that has been put together aesthetically
nicely and primed up to this point will be considered.
email me offline with info.
frank
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | tire maintenence |
In a message dated 10/2/00 2:01:15 AM Central Daylight Time,
rv-list-digest(at)matronics.com writes:
<< KBoatri144(at)AOL.COM wrote:
>
>
> In hopes of making airing up my tires a bit easier, I assumed I'd drill a
> hole in each wheel pant for access to the tire valve. Before I cut the
hole,
> I looked around for an attachment which will fit through the hole and onto
> the onto the valve stem. The only ones I can find have the head at a 45
> degree angle, making direct access through a small hole difficult.
> Suggestions?
> >>
Hey Kyle:
I researched this exact part last week:
Call WW Grainger and order p/n 4X673 @$1.89 ea
Austin local # 512-837-7440
or 800-225-5994 for their emergency number (eg: I GOTTA have that tool --
it's an emergency!!)
I have one of these adapters on a tire filler -- works fine.
How to fill the tire? I drill a 7/8" hole in the wheelpant for access, and
fill it with one of those pop-in 'wookie buttons' available at Home Depot in
their specialty fastener dept. For 'on-the-road' type fill-ups, I have a
special tool (but it'a a secret -- don't tell anyone): take two metal 1/5"
tire valve extensions and screw 'em together (use some of that green loctite
- it's better than rust!). Now you have a tool that will allow you to air up
from any available tire chuck.
Cheers
Mark
Team Rocket
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Bower" <rvbuilder(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Air Compressor |
Bob,
I suspect Danny's price reflects the whole international import/export
thing...too bad. I considered a compressor similar to the one he found, and
it was a good solid choice. I ended up with the Campbell-Hausfeld 60 gallon
230 volt model from Home Depot. They are closing out of those, and if you
are in the compressor market, you need to move fast. The Husky brand that
is replaceing C-H is made by... drum roll ... Campbell-Hausfeld! The only
discernable difference between the two is the C-H is painted blue and the
Husky is red. Big woop. I have it connected up to my air system, and it
works great. It's not super quiet, but it has a more pleasing sound than my
Sears airless did.
Jim Bower
St. Louis, MO
RV-6A N143DJ
Working on wings (if I can find the time)
>From: Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com, Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com, dani_estrada(at)infosel.net.mx
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Air Compressor
>Date: Sat, 30 Sep 2000 21:14:29 EDT
>
>
>danny, i have cambell... 5hp.-20 gal. works great for everything you
>mentioned, HOWEVER check out home depot. I paid approx. $375 for mine last
>year.
>the px you mention is waaaaaayyyyy to much. bob in arkansas doin wings
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | F-6112 top skin questions |
| From: | "Robert Dickson" <bubba(at)coastalnet.com> |
I'm beginning to fit the F-6112 aft top skin on my -6A slider and my
frustrations at aligning this slippery piece of aluminum has given rise to a
few questions. The F-675 is clecoed in position and the bulkheads are all
braced.
First, I know I've got to leave some overlap that will be trimmed at the aft
end, but how much? I don't want to leave too much aft and not have enough
forward.
Second, the instructions say to "remove just enough metal along the front of
the skin that it will wrap easily around the the F-606 & F-607 bulkheads."
What's enough, or more to the point, what's too much? Why trim any at all if
it's got to be trimmed later?
Third, the F-6112 skin extends over the longerons further than the F-675,
maybe 1/4" on each side. Does that get trimmed as well to line up with the
F-675? Neither the instructions nor George O say anything about trimming the
sides of this skin.
I know the answer to some of this is probably "make it fit," but with a
resource like this list why not ask?
As always, thanks in advance.
Robert Dickson
Fayetteville NC
RV-6A QB, wrasslin' with a top skin
________________________________________________________________________________
I am trying to decide on the best way to plumb the fuel lines from the tanks
on my -4 to the fuel selector. The left tank has an inverted fuel pick up
and the tank fitting is in the space between the leading edge and the tank
brace. My question is how much space is there between the tank fitting and
the fuse when the wings are installed -- something I have not done yet. Is
there enough room to screw on a hose fitting? Or, should I bring a short stub
into from the tank into the fuse and make a splice there? Same issue for the
vent line. Thanks for any help.
Ray Grenier
RV-4, last 125 %
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Jory" <rickjory(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: clear primer? |
No . . . you can tell they are primed. When you start grounding wires and
sand a bit of the metal to improve the ground, you'll see that the primer is
a "milky"-like color (compared to aluminum).
Rick Jory RV8A QB
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill Ludwig <ludwig(at)azstarnet.com>
Sent: Saturday, September 30, 2000 9:15 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: clear primer?
>
> I've never heard of a clear primer either. My QB -8 came same as yours -
no
> evidence of being primed.
>
> - Bill in Tucson
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: KR2LARRY(at)AOL.COM <KR2LARRY(at)AOL.COM>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Saturday, September 30, 2000 12:44 AM
> Subject: RV-List: clear primer?
>
>
> >
> >
> >Just received my RV6A QB and was wondering if someone out there could
> answer
> >a question for me.
> > The inside of the fuselage and inside of the wings came without
being
> >primed ,or so I thought.When I called Vans Support they said it was
sprayed
> >with a clear primer made by Sherwin Williams and this is the primer being
> >used by assemblers in the Philippines.
> > After talking to a Sherwin Williams representive (representing the
> >aircraft industry) I have some major concerns.He told me that they nor
any
> >other company makes a clear primer and that the only product they make
that
> >is clear and is used on aluminum is called a primer wash and must be
> >topcoated within 30 minutes with zinc chromate primer.He also said the
wash
> >alone will not protect the aluminum at all.
> > I have only seen one other QB and it came completely primed green
on
> >all interior surface .
> > Any help would be greatly appreciated
> > And now the fun begins Larry Rhea kr2larry(at)aol.com
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: F-6112 top skin questions |
--- Robert Dickson wrote:
> First, I know I've got to leave some overlap that will be trimmed at
> the aft
> end, but how much? I don't want to leave too much aft and not have
> enough forward.
First, you have marked on the fuse side skin where the bulkhead flanges
are, tight? Adjust the top skin so that the bottom-rear edge comes to
the rear of the F606 flange. Now you have flange overlap on both F675
and F6112. There will be considerable overlap at the top - that will
be trimmed once your holes define the F606 flange.
> Second, the instructions say to "remove just enough metal along the
> front of
> the skin that it will wrap easily around the the F-606 & F-607
> bulkheads."
> What's enough, or more to the point, what's too much? Why trim any at
> all if it's got to be trimmed later?
Exactamundo! I haven't trimmed anything yet. Drill it on before
trimming!
> Third, the F-6112 skin extends over the longerons further than the
> F-675,
> maybe 1/4" on each side. Does that get trimmed as well to line up
> with the
> F-675? Neither the instructions nor George O say anything about
> trimming the sides of this skin.
Mine extended as well. Just even out the overlap and you will trim it
down later. I marked calibration lines on the side skin before
strapping the 6112 - used a combination square to mark ever 1/4 inch
down for a couple of inches - that way I could make sure the skin was
overlapping evenly on both sides.
> I know the answer to some of this is probably "make it fit," but with
> a resource like this list why not ask?
Not only that, but the Justice files are excellent in this area:
http://www.edt.com/homewing/justice/fuseout.html
About halfway down is the germane section:
"Aft Top Skin F-6112 (Sliding Canopy Only)"
I finished drilling 6112 this morning before work... well, I still have
the longerons to do. It's looking good so far!
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Fuselage
Yahoo! Photos - 35mm Quality Prints, Now Get 15 Free!
http://photos.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John B. Holmgreen" <jholmgreen(at)backroads.net> |
| Subject: | Bi-Fold hangar door |
"John B. Holmgreen"
Listers,
Does anyone know where I can obtain detailed instructions to build a
bi-fold hangar door. Looking for a 40' width and 12 or 14 feet height.
Thanks,
John
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | c.moen(at)mindspring.com |
RV-List Digest Server
| Subject: | EAA Chapter 186 Fly-in, Winchester, VA |
This is an invitation to eastern RVers to join us for our annual flyin on October
14th and 15th in Winchester, Virginia.
There will be Pancake Breakfests each morning along with our lunch wagon. Aircraft
judging, display's, demonstrations, Young Eagles of course...
One event that I am looking for support on is the "Fly-bys" each day. This is just
like Oshkosh in that we would like to have a showing of all RV models flying
the pattern around mid day, under airboss guidance, such that the attendees
will see RV's in flight while we give a narative on the history and specs on
RV's. All you need to do is show up and fly at the designated timeslot.
This is a fun low key event that draws interesting aircraft from the Washington
DC area.
Hope to see you there!
Craig Moen
80388, Finish
c.moen(at)mindspring.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark and Sue" <2wienceks(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | RV6 Gear Leg Socket Cracks |
Question: Requesting information on others who have found landing gear
socket cracks (RV6).
Has anyone else experienced this?
It involves my plane, a "stock" RV6. Incidentals for her are she was first
flown in 1996, and has about 560 hours on her. She has a 0-320, fixed pitch
Sensenich metal prop. The engine mount was powder coated (red) at the time
of construction. I operate of a hard surface strip. I do not have any
wooden stiffeners on the gear legs, instead, I have filled the leg fairing
with expanding foam. I have never noticed any vibrations caused by gear leg
oscillations. Tires last over 200 hours.
The issue/question.... during my annual, I discovered a small crack on the
"landing gear socket". This crack, which was seen on both gear leg sockets,
was just below the lower engine mounting stud (bolt bushing). This is the
stud that would be adjacent to the pilots left heel, and the co-pilots right
heel. The crack seems to be on the lower "weld fillet" just below the
mounting bolt as it is welded to the gear leg socket. Almost as if the weld
did not have enough penetration. This crack is VERY fine. I cleaned the
area up with a small grinder, and seen the crack... almost like a very fine
black hair.
The crack is the same on both legs. It runs from a point on the weld
perpendicular to the fuselage center line on the socket (outboard), and
seems to radiate 90 degrees back to a point directly behind the gear socket
tube (between the tube and the firewall) below the mounting bolt to the
fuselage.
I called Van's on Friday, Ken Scott & Tom says there has been no reported
failures of these welds by anyone else.
I have never "landed hard" and only occasionally operate on a grass strip.
I also can't figure out why they would crack there... it's as if the stress
of the gear legs being pulled together would have to be applied to generate
the stress needed.
Did anyone else experience these cracks? If so... how did you fix them?
Any information would be appreciated. If you did NOT... you may at least
want to check this area out next time you have this area exposed.
Thanks!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV4Brown(at)AOL.COM |
Hi Ray,
I installed the flop tube in the left tank on my RV4. Since I used a
straight stub flair fitting coming out of the front on the fuel tank, the
spacing between the tank and the fuselage made it almost impossible to put a
90 degree turn in the line. The fact that the line exits the tank in front
of the wing attach bracket doesn't help anything either. As I recall, I had
to use some special short wrenches to get in there to tighten up the tube
nut. There isn't much room. Maybe an inch.
I ran the fuel line straight across from the tank into the fuselage. A
rubber grommet was used to seal off air leakage from the larger hole needed
to pass the nut assembly through. The fuel line penetrated the fuselage in
front of the left well box in front of the spar. I thought I was going to
need to install a cover plate over it to keep my foot away from the fuel line
upon entering and exiting the cockpit, but this hasn't proven to be a
concern. After penetrating the fuselage, I ran the line toward the rear into
the left well box. I installed duel fuel filters, one for each tank inside
the left and right well boxes. The fuel line was then run from the well box
into the centerwell and up to the fuel selector valve.
There are lots of ways to skin this cat.
Cheers,
Tom Brown RV4 flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Moreau" <jeff(at)2wd.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Bi-Fold hangar door |
Does anyone know exactly how many RV-9A are presently under construction. I
have only seen three builders listed on the Vans website. I am about to
purchase the empenage kit for a 9 and would like to find out how many others
are out there. What do you guys think of the RV-9A. Any comments would be
greatly appreciated.
Jeff Moreau
-----Original Message-----
From: John B. Holmgreen <jholmgreen(at)backroads.net>
Date: Monday, October 02, 2000 11:14 AM
Subject: RV-List: Bi-Fold hangar door
>
>Listers,
>
> Does anyone know where I can obtain detailed instructions to build a
>bi-fold hangar door. Looking for a 40' width and 12 or 14 feet height.
>
>Thanks,
>John
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Bi-Fold hangar door |
In the back of Sport Aviation there used to be an ad for "the Ultimate
Door." A man by the name of Bob Ladd who lived in Wisconsin on Troy Airport
was the designer and seller. You could contact Ron Scott who was a neighbor
for additional information. You can reach Ron at ironsides(at)netwurx.net or
262-642-7423
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
----- Original Message -----
From: "John B. Holmgreen" <jholmgreen(at)backroads.net>
Sent: Monday, October 02, 2000 9:30 AM
Subject: RV-List: Bi-Fold hangar door
>
> Listers,
>
> Does anyone know where I can obtain detailed instructions to build a
> bi-fold hangar door. Looking for a 40' width and 12 or 14 feet height.
>
> Thanks,
> John
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net> |
There is available a I0360 with 400 hrs on it. Anyone interested contact me
of the list.
Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cliff Begnaud" <shoeless(at)barefootpilot.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Bi-Fold hangar door |
Jeff,
There are quite a few -9 builders on the RV list. I bought my kit at oshkosh
this year, kit # 133.
Currently working on the empennage.
The quality of this kit is exceptional, probably the best made kit on the
market. The accuracy of the matched hole tooling is amazing.
Also, I've flown the new demonstrator twice and the performance is
impressive. Takes off and lands shorter than anything other than a supercub
or Husky, climbs great. flies fast. The controls are not a sensitive as the
other RV's but it is still very responsive and sporty. More stable in
turbulance than other RV's. If only it were aerobatic and tailwheel.......
Regards,
Cliff
>
> Does anyone know exactly how many RV-9A are presently under construction.
I
> have only seen three builders listed on the Vans website. I am about to
> purchase the empenage kit for a 9 and would like to find out how many
others
> are out there. What do you guys think of the RV-9A. Any comments would
be
> greatly appreciated.
> Jeff Moreau
> -----Original Message-----
> From: John B. Holmgreen <jholmgreen(at)backroads.net>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Monday, October 02, 2000 11:14 AM
> Subject: RV-List: Bi-Fold hangar door
>
>
>
> >
> >Listers,
> >
> > Does anyone know where I can obtain detailed instructions to build a
> >bi-fold hangar door. Looking for a 40' width and 12 or 14 feet height.
> >
> >Thanks,
> >John
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Bi-Fold hangar door |
In a message dated 10/2/2000 11:11:34 AM Central Daylight Time,
cgalley(at)qcbc.org writes:
> In the back of Sport Aviation there used to be an ad for "the Ultimate
> Door." A man by the name of Bob Ladd who lived in Wisconsin on Troy Airport
> was the designer and seller. You could contact Ron Scott who was a neighbor
> for additional information. You can reach Ron at ironsides(at)netwurx.net or
> 262-642-7423
>
> Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
> (Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
>
My stepfather has that door. Its a nice door, but it is maintence intesive.
You need to retighten all the screws each year. Also when ever we have high
winds. 70 mph plus a panel or 2 will blow out of the door. His door doesnt
face into the wind. Do to that fact and the edge sealing. I went with a
bifold door on my hanger as I face into the wind.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Christie" <billc(at)dancris.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wheel/Tire Questions |
Sam,
In regards to the floor jack, if the gadget slides into the gear leg and
then you jack up the gadget, how does the tire come off the axle over the
gadget? I don't have one of these (yet), but am having a bad time trying to
visualize how this works. Maybe a picture?
Thanks much,
Bill C., RV8A, Phoenix
----- Original Message -----
From: Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net>
Sent: Sunday, October 01, 2000 6:04 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Wheel/Tire Questions
>
> Kyle, I kept waiting for somebody to suggest the RV Axle Jack Kit
> offered by Cleaveland Tools.......but nobody has so far.
>
> This is a gadget that inserts into the hollow axle and provides a lift
> point for a bottle or floor jack. I have used it numerous times and it
> works like a charm.
>
> You can get more info from Cleaveland.
>
> Sam Buchanan (RV-6)
> "The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
>
> ========================
>
> KBoatri144(at)AOL.COM wrote:
> >
> >
> > In hopes of making airing up my tires a bit easier, I assumed I'd drill
a
> > hole in each wheel pant for access to the tire valve. Before I cut the
hole,
> > I looked around for an attachment which will fit through the hole and
onto
> > the onto the valve stem. The only ones I can find have the head at a 45
> > degree angle, making direct access through a small hole difficult.
> > Suggestions?
> >
> > Also, what's the easy way to jack the airplane to remove a wheel? With
my
> > fiberglass gear leg fairings, there really doesn't seem to be a good
place to
> > attach the little jack point fitting I bought. I'm sure someone'll
point out
> > what I'm missing...
> >
> > Thanks in advance,
> >
> > Kyle Boatright - Kennesaw, GA
> > RV-6 Slider, O-320/Aymar-Demuth
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Im7shannon(at)AOL.COM |
Hi listers, I spent the weekend applying the finish paint to my wings and emp
parts, I used a product made by Valspar, Omega polyurethane. The store I
bought it from also sold Imron, but told me this stuff is almost identical in
performance and appearance at half the cost. I was very impressed at ease of
application and coverage. I got professional results using my $89.95 HVLP
gun. Very happy with finished product.
Kevin
-9A waiting impatiently for fuse, now Im really out of things to do, guess
I'll look for an engine
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | c.moen(at)mindspring.com |
RV-List Digest Server
| Subject: | Mid-Atlantic RV Wing |
To all RV flyers in the Delaware, Pennylvania, Maryland, North Carolina, Washington
DC, West Virginia and Virginia area.
You are invited to join the Mid-Atlantic RV Wing of Van's Air Force at: http://www.egroups.com/group/Mid-AtlRVwing
The e-group is focus on RV flying activities, including WAM's (Wing Assault Missions)
to monthly rondevous to Breakfast and Lunch locations around the Mid-Atlantic
region. Future activities include Formation Flight Training and Maintenance
Support.
The next WAM is October 14-15 at the EAA Chapter 186 annual flyin in Winchester,
VA. Breakfest, Lunch, RV Fly-by's, fun.
The e-group site also has a member database to share your RV pictures and spec's.
Best regards,
Craig Moen
80338
Maryland
c.moen(at)mindspring.com
________________________________________________________________________________
10/02/2000 03:05:23 PM
Which gun ? where did you get the HVLP ?
Im7shannon(at)AOL.COM@matronics.com on 10/02/2000 01:57:27 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com; Please respond to
Im7shannon(at)AOL.COM
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: Re: RV-List: 9A painting
Hi listers, I spent the weekend applying the finish paint to my wings and
emp
parts, I used a product made by Valspar, Omega polyurethane. The store I
bought it from also sold Imron, but told me this stuff is almost identical
in
performance and appearance at half the cost. I was very impressed at ease
of
application and coverage. I got professional results using my $89.95 HVLP
gun. Very happy with finished product.
Kevin
-9A waiting impatiently for fuse, now Im really out of things to do, guess
I'll look for an engine
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Im7shannon(at)AOL.COM |
Got the gun at Eagle Hardware, the brand is "airforce" they have one with a
plastic container which wont hold up to hot stuff for very long, get the one
with the metal container.
Kevin
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: F-6112 top skin questions |
In a message dated 10/2/00 6:31:06 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
bubba(at)coastalnet.com writes:
<< I know I've got to leave some overlap that will be trimmed at the aft end,
but how
much >>
Robert, just make certain that you leave enough aft so that when the 6112 is
pulled down tight at the longerons all along that you have adequate overlap
of the 6112 and aft top skin at the longerons for rivet edge distance. The
amount of overlap required for this at the top center will surprize you, at
least it did me. Best bet is to pull it down with your cargo straps for a
trial fit before doing any drilling.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, working on canopy installation
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Louis Willig <larywil(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6 Gear Leg Socket Cracks |
>
>The issue/question.... during my annual, I discovered a small crack on the
>"landing gear socket". This crack, which was seen on both gear leg sockets,
>was just below the lower engine mounting stud (bolt bushing). This is the
>stud that would be adjacent to the pilots left heel, and the co-pilots right
>heel. The crack seems to be on the lower "weld fillet" just below the
>mounting bolt as it is welded to the gear leg socket. Almost as if the weld
>did not have enough penetration. This crack is VERY fine. I cleaned the
>area up with a small grinder, and seen the crack... almost like a very fine
>black hair.
>
>The crack is the same on both legs. It runs from a point on the weld
>perpendicular to the fuselage center line on the socket (outboard), and
>seems to radiate 90 degrees back to a point directly behind the gear socket
>tube (between the tube and the firewall) below the mounting bolt to the
>fuselage.
Mark,
I have experienced the exact same cracks on an RV-4 I had last
year. Shortly after I purchased the aircraft, I had an annual
(conditional inspection) performed. Both gear leg sockets were cracked and
"making oil" at these hairline cracks. The aircraft was previously flown
for 3 years from a poorly kept grass/sod field. I believe the T/O and
landing stresses were the cause of the cracks. Ten months ago , this
aircraft was involved in an accident , which caused it to be "totaled". In
an engine out situation, it was landed in a corn field, and the main gear
legs collapsed and were bent to the point of being tucked under the
fuselage and under the wing. The whole underside of the aircraft and the
wings were damaged beyond repair. However, not a single piece of the
aircraft "broke off" except for some fiberglass cowling and the prop. The
engine mount weldments, and the gear leg sockets all held fast even though
the legs and their sockets were bent back nearly 90 deg. from their normal
position In fact, the cracks are no larger than they were originally.
I do not suggest that you disregard these cracks. Instead, keep an eye on
them. The sockets probably won't fail catastrophically. Instead, the cracks
will either get no larger or they will begin to increase in size. You will
then have to decide if and how you want to take precautionary action.
Louis
Louis I. Willig
larywil(at)home.com
RV-4, N180PF, 50 hrs.
I0-360, Hartzell C/S
(610) 668-4964
Philadelphia, PA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Warren Gretz <warrengretz(at)gretzaero.com> |
list-engines , list-ez ,
list-glasair
| Subject: | any 172's for sale? |
Hello List,
I have a good friend that is looking for an older Cessna 172 for sale.
If you know of anyone that has one, and it is in OK shape, please
contact me with the details.
Warren Gretz
Gretz Aero
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: F-6112 top skin questions |
Also make sure you have removed any plastic film from the parts in question,
as the thicknesses will add up.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
6A O360, Airflow, CS
may fly in '01
:
>
> << I know I've got to leave some overlap that will be trimmed at the aft
end,
> but how
> much >>
>
------ http://USFamily.Net/info - Unlimited Internet - From $7.99/mo! ------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: F-6112 top skin questions |
In a message dated 10/2/00 10:34:06 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
grobdriver(at)yahoo.com writes:
> > Third, the F-6112 skin extends over the longerons further than the
> > F-675,
> > maybe 1/4" on each side. Does that get trimmed as well to line up
> > with the
> > F-675? Neither the instructions nor George O say anything about
> > trimming the sides of this skin.
>
> Mine extended as well. Just even out the overlap and you will trim it
> down later.
You can save a little work if you align one side to the longitudinal line
established by the aft skin. Then, you'll only need to trim one side, as
opposed to both of 'em.
Kyle Boatright - Kennesaw, GA
RV-6 Slider, O-320/Aymar-Demuth
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wheel/Tire Questions |
Bill Christie wrote:
>
>
> Sam,
> In regards to the floor jack, if the gadget slides into the gear leg and
> then you jack up the gadget, how does the tire come off the axle over the
> gadget? I don't have one of these (yet), but am having a bad time trying to
> visualize how this works. Maybe a picture?
>
> Thanks much,
>
> Bill C., RV8A, Phoenix
Bill, I can certainly appreciate your question. The first time I saw the
gadget, I had the same question.
The adapter arm (the tube that slides into the axle) is long enough to
allow you to slide the tire clear of the axle. You can then put a block
under the exposed axle, release the floor jack, and slide the adapter
and tire out of the axle.
Clear as day-old pro-seal??
It actually works very nicely. Sorry, no photos.
Sam Buchanan
"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim M" <jmosur(at)interlog.com> |
| Subject: | Re: any 172's for sale? |
I have a 1960 172A for sale . 600 hrs. on a 0-300 continental, 3300 hrs.
T.T. wheel pants, 4 place intercom, cleveland brakes, 25 hrs. SPOH, one
piece windsheild , com., transponder, encoder, modern gyros. $24000.00 USD.
Toronto area.
Jim Mosur
-----Original Message-----
From: Warren Gretz <warrengretz(at)gretzaero.com>
; list-engines ;
list-ez ; list-glasair
Date: Monday, October 02, 2000 8:33 PM
Subject: RV-List: any 172's for sale?
>
>Hello List,
>I have a good friend that is looking for an older Cessna 172 for sale.
>If you know of anyone that has one, and it is in OK shape, please
>contact me with the details.
>
>Warren Gretz
>Gretz Aero
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
On 1 Oct 2000, at 21:17, Bobpaulo(at)AOL.COM wrote:
>
> tim, how can i get in touch with vendor?? i need a specific addy-the
> yellow page search turned up some british pearl vendor :) thanks, bob
>
Per the Yeller pages, it's http://www.hometown.aol.com/enginfosys
******
Tim Lewis -- Springfield VA
RV-6A N47TD - First Flight 18 Dec 99
TimRV6A(at)earthlink.net
http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Hurlbut" <shurlbut(at)island.net> |
| Subject: | Pneumatic rivet squeezer |
Anybody have a pneumatic rivet squeezer for sale?
Steve Hurlbut
shurlbut(at)island.net
RV-6 emp
C-FSND
Comox, BC, Canada
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Dual Brake Pedals RV6-A-QB |
> > List: I am installing the Rudder and Brake assemblies in my RV6-A-QB
> > and wanted to put a question to the Builders who have been there done
> > that.
> > Has anyone put the Brake Pedals on a 5 to 10 Degree forward
> > slant?
>
> I modified mine to slant forward. I don't know the number of degrees, I
> just tried various angles until it felt right.
I did the same. I asked the same question as you about a year ago and the
consensus was that they would be better off with a slight forward slant just
like our feet have anyway.
Norman Hunger
RV6A Delta BC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Norman Hunger" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
.
> >For you Canadians out there. Can I close them completely or do they need
to
> >be open for an inspection.
Steve, You must keep them open for inspection.
> My local guy said to
> partially rivet the second side, but to leave enough rivets out so he
> could peel back the skin at each corner to peek inside. That way I
> could put enough rivets in to lock the shape and safely take them out
> of the jig without worrying about a subsequent twist.
This is good advice.
It is likely that your inspector will let you keep going until you have the
wings built to the same point. Mine did and it saved me an extra inspection
(he's an RV6 builder too).
This is the reason that a completed homebuilt aircraft from another country
can never be imported and registered in Canada.
Norman Hunger
RV6A Delta BC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Todd Houg <thoug(at)ATTGLOBAL.NET> |
| Subject: | RV-9 builders (Was: Bi-Fold hangar door) |
Jeff,
One thing to keep in mind is that the links on Van's web page only represent the
builders that have taken time out from building to document thier projects on
the web. Being a fairly new kit, it is not surprising that builders are building
rather than creating web pages ;). Hopefully we'll see more -9 web pages
soon. I read a post to this list from George True recently regarding the number
of tail kits being delivered by Vans:
"In July, they had their biggest month ever, shipping 130 empennages out the door,
in addition to all the other kits, parts, and quickbuilds. Here's a telling
figure: Of those 130 empennages that were shipped, fully HALF of those were
RV-9A empennages. It looks like Van was dead-on in terms of knowing there would
be a market for the 9A."
That means at least 65 RV-9's started in July alone. I know they sold quite a few
at Oshkosh also, I'll bet August was even bigger than July!
I'll be adding my -9 tail kit start to the October numbers!
Todd Houg
Faxing the -9 tail order this week!
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | -8A Rudder Pedals and Step |
| From: | czechsix(at)juno.com |
Guys, I'm getting ready to order my -8A fuselage kit, and trying to make
a few decisions on options....
1) Is there any downside to ground-adjustable rudder pedals aside from
the fact that you can't slide them forward on a long XC flight for more
legroom? I will be the only one flying it so I figure why not save $100
and a bit of weight, but I'm wondering if anyone has other comments.
Does anyone have a picture on the web of the ground-adjustable pedal
installation?
2) Rear-seat rudder pedals ($168 !! ). Could these be easily added
later if I decide I want them, or would I be better off getting them now?
If I have to make major mods or structural changes to add them later
I'll just get them with the fuse kit....
3) Is the external step included with the -8A kit? Vans sells it as an
option for the -6A but does not say whether it's included or a separate
option for the -8A.
4) Any other recommendations for items I should purchase with the fuse
kit that might be easier to install during this phase of construction
rather than later with the finishing kit? (for example, someone
recommended getting the rear seat throttle now as it would be easier to
mount during the fuse construction). I already have elec aileron trim.
Thanks,
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A #80583, O-360-A4A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: -8A Rudder Pedals and Step |
>
>Guys, I'm getting ready to order my -8A fuselage kit, and trying to make
>a few decisions on options....
>
>1) Is there any downside to ground-adjustable rudder pedals aside from
>the fact that you can't slide them forward on a long XC flight for more
>legroom? I will be the only one flying it so I figure why not save $100
>and a bit of weight, but I'm wondering if anyone has other comments.
>Does anyone have a picture on the web of the ground-adjustable pedal
>installation?
I've got a couple of pictures at
<http://members.nbci.com/_XMCM/kevinhorton/fuselage/f09.html>. I've
also got rear seat rudder pedals, so don't get confused in the
pictures. If you don't have rear seat rudder pedals, the rudder
cables go from the rudder pedals straight to the wing spar. With the
rear seat rudder pedals, you get all the paraphernalia that is bolted
to the back side of the landing gear boxes too.
>2) Rear-seat rudder pedals ($168 !! ). Could these be easily added
>later if I decide I want them, or would I be better off getting them now?
> If I have to make major mods or structural changes to add them later
>I'll just get them with the fuse kit....
It would be a bit fun drilling a matching bolt hole in the bracket
that bolts to the back side of the landing gear boxes, but I think
you could do it. You might have to remove the Wd-813s to get access
though, which would mean taking the gear off.
>
>3) Is the external step included with the -8A kit? Vans sells it as an
>option for the -6A but does not say whether it's included or a separate
>option for the -8A.
>
>4) Any other recommendations for items I should purchase with the fuse
>kit that might be easier to install during this phase of construction
>rather than later with the finishing kit? (for example, someone
>recommended getting the rear seat throttle now as it would be easier to
>mount during the fuse construction). I already have elec aileron trim.
>
>Thanks,
>
>--Mark Navratil
>Cedar Rapids, Iowa
>RV-8A #80583, O-360-A4A
Take care,
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (misc fuselage stuff)
Ottawa, Canada
http://members.nbci.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV8DRIVER(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: -8A Rudder Pedals and Step |
Mark, I can't help you with most of your concerns, but Kevin Horton has good
photos or the ground-adjustable pedals on his website at:
http://members.xoom.com/kevinhorton/rv8.html
Andy Johnson, -8 fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Jory" <rickjory(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: -8A Rudder Pedals and Step |
Mark . . . my two cents . . .
> 1) Is there any downside to ground-adjustable rudder pedals
I went with these and after looking at the "upgrade" version on another
builder's project I would NOT go with the ground-adjustable. Yes,
technically they can be adjusted, but it's going to be a royal pain. Prior
to going this route I was told the main benefit is a weight savings on the
ground-adjustable, so that's what I chose.
> 3) Is the external step included with the -8A kit?
Yes, the step is included (if I remember correctly). NOTE: the plans call
for the routing holes for the rudder cables . . . but the step comes with a
reinforcement plate and the routing hole has to be changed or the rudder
cable (left cable) will interfere with the step (and/or rub against it). It
helps to figure this out before you run the rudder cables. I have an aft
mounted battery, and I also had to lower the hole where I ran the battery
cable.
> --Mark Navratil
> Cedar Rapids, Iowa
> RV-8A #80583, O-360-A4A
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg Tanner" <gtanner(at)bendcable.com> |
| Subject: | RV-9 builders (Was: Bi-Fold hangar door) |
I ordered my emp kit 2 weeks ago and I'm #186.
Greg Tanner
RV-9A Empennage
SER #90186 N80BR (APPLIED FOR)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Todd Houg
Sent: Monday, October 02, 2000 7:21 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: RV-9 builders (Was: Bi-Fold hangar door)
Jeff,
One thing to keep in mind is that the links on Van's web page only represent
the builders that have taken time out from building to document thier
projects on the web. Being a fairly new kit, it is not surprising that
builders are building rather than creating web pages ;). Hopefully we'll see
more -9 web pages soon. I read a post to this list from George True recently
regarding the number of tail kits being delivered by Vans:
"In July, they had their biggest month ever, shipping 130 empennages out the
door, in addition to all the other kits, parts, and quickbuilds. Here's a
telling figure: Of those 130 empennages that were shipped, fully HALF of
those were RV-9A empennages. It looks like Van was dead-on in terms of
knowing there would be a market for the 9A."
That means at least 65 RV-9's started in July alone. I know they sold quite
a few at Oshkosh also, I'll bet August was even bigger than July!
I'll be adding my -9 tail kit start to the October numbers!
Todd Houg
Faxing the -9 tail order this week!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: -8A Rudder Pedals and Step |
Mark,
Glad to see you are finally being able to order you kit.
>Guys, I'm getting ready to order my -8A fuselage kit, and trying to make
>a few decisions on options....
>
>1) Is there any downside to ground-adjustable rudder pedals aside from
>the fact that you can't slide them forward on a long XC flight for more
>legroom? I will be the only one flying it so I figure why not save $100
>and a bit of weight, but I'm wondering if anyone has other comments.
>Does anyone have a picture on the web of the ground-adjustable pedal
>installation?
Check out Moe Colontino's web site. If you are going to be the only one
then I see no reason to have the adjustable. But it is nice being able to
move them depending on how I fly at any given time.
>2) Rear-seat rudder pedals ($168 !! ). Could these be easily added
>later if I decide I want them, or would I be better off getting them now?
> If I have to make major mods or structural changes to add them later
>I'll just get them with the fuse kit....
>
They are very easy to add later on!!
>3) Is the external step included with the -8A kit? Vans sells it as an
>option for the -6A but does not say whether it's included or a separate
>option for the -8A.
>
The left side step is included with the -8A kit at no extra charge.
>4) Any other recommendations for items I should purchase with the fuse
>kit that might be easier to install during this phase of construction
>rather than later with the finishing kit? (for example, someone
>recommended getting the rear seat throttle now as it would be easier to
>mount during the fuse construction). I already have elec aileron trim.
>
The rear seat throttle wasn't all that bad to install in the QB but, yes, it
would definitely be easier earlier on. The same could be said for the whole
throttle quadrant and control cables, but, again, it wan't all that bad in
the QB. I would definitely recommend figuring what wires, etc., you are
going to need in the tail section prior to buttoning up the turtle deck as
it gets cramped and stuffy back there if you have to do it later.
Good Luck and have fun, Mark.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A N809RS
Inspection this week
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Christie" <billc(at)dancris.com> |
Listers,
I am putting together the F804 bulkhead assembly on an RV8A and ran into a
problem. On the aft side of the F804 there are 2 pieces made of the
.063X3/4X3/4 angle. These are used for floor supports. The problem is that
the 3/16" hole is enlarged to 5/8" to install a bushing for the rudder
pedals. When I use a unibit to enlarge the 3/16" hole out to 5/8", it cuts
out to the edge, breaking open that flange. I have now made 2 of these with
the same results. There appears to be 2 possibilities here: use a 3/4 by 1
angle or rivet it on and then enlarge the hole, ignoring the fact that the
flange is broken. If someone has a cure / suggestion here, I would certainly
appreciate it.
Thanks Much,
Bill C., RV8A, Phoenix
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Riveting platenuts for tanks |
"Craig Paulson" <cpaulson@paulson-training.com>
In trying to rivet the tank attach platenuts onto the main spar of my rv-6a
last night, I discovered that I don't have enough room between where I
drilled the platenut attach holes and the spar flange strips to rivet the
platenuts on. The squeezer and the rivet gun will not fit. In most cases
there is the shop head of a 3/16" rivet blocking access. I did try squeezing
a couple of them but the shop head came out with an unacceptable angle on
it. If any else has had this problem I like to hear how you handled it. I
don't see any option except pop rivets. Are they an option in this location?
Craig Paulson
rv-6a tanks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
"'Craig Paulson'"@matronics.com
| Subject: | Riveting platenuts for tanks |
I think that you can use pulled rivets here. They have to be strong enough
to keep the platenuts from moving around when the attachment screws aren't
tight.
Steve Soule
not an engineer
RV-6A air scoop
-----Original Message-----
In trying to rivet the tank attach platenuts onto the main spar of my rv-6a
last night, I discovered that I don't have enough room between where I
drilled the platenut attach holes and the spar flange strips to rivet the
platenuts on. The squeezer and the rivet gun will not fit. In most cases
there is the shop head of a 3/16" rivet blocking access.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | 6-A Tip-up Instument Panel Supports |
I am laying out my 6-A panel and am finding the F-645's are in a terrible
place. These are the "ribs" that tie the subpanel to the instrument panel.
I just called Vans and was told that on the tip up canopy, the instrument
panel is not structural and it would be fine to move these. A local builder
has fabricated a custom panel and incorporated support panels into the sides
of his center mounted radio stack. This looks like a good way to go to free
up valuable panel space. Any comments??
Ross Mickey
Eugene, Oregon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "rlluster" <rlluster(at)msn.com> |
"RV-List Digest Server"
| Subject: | how many RV-9A are presently under construction |
Jeff,
I just got my wing kit last week, and it appears to be S/N 062. When I got
my emp. I got builder # 90111, I have seen the number upto 90176.
I have completed my Empennage for the RV9. I am a machinist and own a
machine shop. I am very satisfied with the construction plans and manual
supplied with the Empennage. I am now working on the wing kit, and have
found that Vans expects the builder to learn as you go. Meaning that they
are not as explicit on the wing manual as they are in the emp. manual.
> From: "Jeff Moreau" <jeff(at)2wd.com>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Bi-Fold hangar door
>
>
> Does anyone know exactly how many RV-9A are presently under construction.
I
> have only seen three builders listed on the Vans website. I am about to
> purchase the empenage kit for a 9 and would like to find out how many
others
> are out there. What do you guys think of the RV-9A. Any comments would
be
> greatly appreciated.
> Jeff Moreau
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Save 863.33 on inverted oil |
The Christen inverted oil system from Aviat for my RV4 would have cost
1966.56. I did pretty much the same set up from Spruce for 1103.22.
Here's the prices.
Aviat Spruce
801-4 Basic Kit 666.00 520.00
811-A Sump Kit 337.13 255.00
807-4 Deluxe Hose Kit 963.43 327.83
I bought the hose kit in pieces and here's a list of what you need.
3X AN 816-10D 10.17
1X AN 823-10D 8.00
2X AN 842-12D 49.22
8X Aeroquip fittings #491-10D 120.24
6X aero clamps 5.95
15' Aeroquip Hose 303-10 86.25
10' MIL-H-6000 Hose 3/4 I.D.X11/80D 48.00
Total 327.83 Vs 963.43
I use the Aeroquip 303 hose instead of the Stratoflex, I figure if it's good
enough for the military and my Blackhawk with it's good enough for the 4.
I hope this helps, I had enough left over money to but the filter kit.
Blue Skies,
Carey Mills
Installing the system
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Riveting platenuts for tanks |
In a message dated 10/3/00 10:17:03 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
cpaulson@paulson-training.com writes:
<< there is the shop head of a 3/16" rivet blocking access >>
Have you tried a squeezer yoke with thin solid nose. That worked for me.
Avery has them for his squeezer.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, working on canopy installation
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Riveting platenuts for tanks |
The rivets holding a plate nut are not structural. They are there just to
prevent rotation and to hold them in place until the screw or bolt is
tightened up. A pop rivet should do just fine.
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Craig Paulson" <cpaulson@paulson-training.com>
Sent: Tuesday, October 03, 2000 12:14 PM
Subject: RV-List: Riveting platenuts for tanks
<cpaulson@paulson-training.com>
>
> In trying to rivet the tank attach platenuts onto the main spar of my
rv-6a
> last night, I discovered that I don't have enough room between where I
> drilled the platenut attach holes and the spar flange strips to rivet the
> platenuts on. The squeezer and the rivet gun will not fit. In most cases
> there is the shop head of a 3/16" rivet blocking access. I did try
squeezing
> a couple of them but the shop head came out with an unacceptable angle on
> it. If any else has had this problem I like to hear how you handled it. I
> don't see any option except pop rivets. Are they an option in this
location?
>
> Craig Paulson
> rv-6a tanks
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
This is to let everybody know what the outcome is to my question about 'N'
numbers last month. Firstly, I only got a few replies so I wasn't able to
compile any significant data. But, I would like to thank those that did
take the time to reply. I went all the way to Washington D.C. and had to
dig into the library to get a definitive answer. FAR 45.29(b)(iii) states
that an Experimental aircraft may have three inch numbers unless the maximum
continuous cruising speed is above 180 knots CAS (207 mph). It doesn't go
on any further.
So the question is: "What is maximum continuous airspeed?" That is where I
had to dig deep into the library and find the NPRMs (National Proposal for
Rule Making) and the answer to the public questions about those. What I
found was that maximum continuous airspeed is the maximum level flight at
the maximum continuous engine rpm (basically wide open). So how do we
determine that speed for our aircraft. Well, Van's has taken care of that
for us on his web site under the performance numbers for each model. And
that result is that only the RV-8(A) has to worry. All other models, if
built within van's standards, are good to go with the three inch numbers.
On the other hand the -8(A) with the 180 hp or the 200 hp have to worry.
Because of Van's performance numbers any -8(A) is going to have to have
bigger than 3 inch numbers. Obviously if you already have three inch
letters and have your Operating Limitations you are, for the most part, in
the clear. But for those of you who are still building, you may have to
worry, especially if your inspector knows about Van's sight. Now you may be
able to get away with smaller than 12 inch numbers because of a little
provision in 45.29(f) but that will be a negotiation between you and the
inspector issuing the Airworthiness Certificate. I will tell you that I put
up a 12 inch stencil on the fuselage and it looked enormous and all out of
proportion. My co-worker that is issuing the airworthiness certificate for
my -8A agreed and relented into giving me somewhat smaller numbers.
For those of you that already have the three inch numbers just be aware that
should you get a ramp check, and if the inspector is sharp he may catch you
and require you to get bigger numbers. More than likely that will never
happen, especially if you don't let him know which engine is installed.
Good Building and God Flying to you all.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A N809RS
As soon as I sand off my 3 inch numbers and apply new ones it is time for
final inspection.
Folks,
I would like to do a little survey here if you wouldn't mind. This is
entirely UN-official and for my use only. This is mostly for the RV-8's
with the 200 HP engine but all replies would be appreciated. Please give
your model type and engine HP with your reply. What size "N" numbers have
you all put on your completed aircraft?? The reason I am asking is that FAR
45.29(b)(iii) calls out 3 inch numbers unless the maximum cruising speed
exceeds 180 Knots CAS (207mph). The performance numbers on Van's web page
are showing the max cruise speed at way over the 207 mph mark. Which leads
to my second question.
On the RV-8 and -8A's what are your performance numbers at 55%, 65%, 75%,
and wide open???
Thanks for the replies and sorry if this offends anybody.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John" <fasching(at)amigo.net> |
| Subject: | Pressure Recovery Wheel Pants, RV6A, Nose Wheel |
I received the three PR wheel pants. No instructions. You said you were not
aware of any. Someone on the "RV-List" sent me a photo copy of VAN'S
instructions for installing the main PR wheel pants, so they DO exist.
BUT the point of this message is that the nose wheel fairing will not fit an
RV6A...the 'nose cap' or front piece cannot be attached because of
interference between it and the bottom of the gear leg assembly where the
attaching nut and 'spring washers' are located.
It was necessary to cut a hole in the nose cap so that the cap could be
'rotated' upward enough so that the Allen head screws used for the tow bar
could be installed...even so the suggested 3.5-inches off the floor could
not be achieved at the tail of the fairing....about 4-inches is the best
that could be done. The aft part of the fairing was located at the axle
point per the small locating 'dots' molded into the fairing. It was placed
as far forward as possible.
I may just leave a part stick out of the hole I needed to cut in the nose
cap...if I glassed over it I may destroy the effect of a low drag fairing
even more than the end of the nose gear sticking through would do.
The nose cap needs to be about 1/2 inch 'longer' ....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)emailusa.net> |
| Subject: | Wing inspection cover |
To those that have the prepunched RV-6 wings, did you receive a cover plate
for the bell crank inspection opening or is this builder fabricated?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)emailusa.net> |
| Subject: | RV6 Cutaway Drawing .jpg |
Does anyone have a *.jpg of the RV6 cutaway drawing? I have one of the -6A
and would like one for the -6 to include in a personalized POH I'm putting
together for Paul Golias.
Mike Nellis - RV-6 Wings N699BM (res)
Plainfield, IL
http://mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Peter laurence <plaurenc(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Riveting platenuts for tanks |
You can access this rivets with a longeron yolk.
Peter
Craig Paulson wrote:
>
>
> In trying to rivet the tank attach platenuts onto the main spar of my rv-6a
> last night, I discovered that I don't have enough room between where I
> drilled the platenut attach holes and the spar flange strips to rivet the
> platenuts on. The squeezer and the rivet gun will not fit. In most cases
> there is the shop head of a 3/16" rivet blocking access. I did try squeezing
> a couple of them but the shop head came out with an unacceptable angle on
> it. If any else has had this problem I like to hear how you handled it. I
> don't see any option except pop rivets. Are they an option in this location?
>
> Craig Paulson
> rv-6a tanks
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)bconnex.net> |
| Subject: | Elevator balancing problems |
I'm having trouble balancing the elevators on my RV-8. The right elevator is
ok (just barely!) but the left elevator is simply too heavy for the counter
balance weights that Van's supplied. I suspect this may be due to the
heavier .020 skins on the -8's.
Anyone else experienced this? It's not even painted yet...
I also have a slight oil canning after forming the leading edge on both
elevators and rudder. I discovered it's caused by inadvertently bending the
flange of the main spars. I have remedied most of it but there is still some
very minor oil canning. Hopefully it will be safe to fly with. These .020
leading edges were &!@$#!@ to bend!!!
Are
RV-8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Textor" <pincjt(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Elevator balancing problems |
Are,
I'm close to balancing mine, I too am interested in others thoughts. Did
you mount the weights as far forward as possible? Also regarding the oil
canning, could you explain further about bending the spar flanges.
Thanks,
Jack
Des Moines, IA
RV8 Elevators
I'm having trouble balancing the elevators on my RV-8. The right elevator is
ok (just barely!) but the left elevator is simply too heavy for the counter
balance weights that Van's supplied. I suspect this may be due to the
heavier .020 skins on the -8's.
Anyone else experienced this? It's not even painted yet...
I also have a slight oil canning after forming the leading edge on both
elevators and rudder. I discovered it's caused by inadvertently bending the
flange of the main spars. I have remedied most of it but there is still some
very minor oil canning. Hopefully it will be safe to fly with. These .020
leading edges were &!@$#!@ to bend!!!
Are
RV-8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Bundy" <ebundy(at)micron.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Pressure Recovery Wheel Pants, RV6A, Nose Wheel |
I recently installed the main gear PR fairings and I picked up a solid
5-7mph. Are you using the same fairing for the nose wheel? In the catalog
it says that these fairings are not for nose wheels. It then shows a
listing for a nose wheel fairing without PR in the part #. I assumed that
this was the standard nose wheel that I already have.
Does anyone know if there is in fact a PR nose wheel for a 6A?
Ed Bundy - Eagle, ID
RV6A, 0320-D1a (160hp)
Sensenich 70x78, N427EM, 350+hrs.
ebundy(at)micron.net
> I received the three PR wheel pants. No instructions. You said you were
not
> aware of any. Someone on the "RV-List" sent me a photo copy of VAN'S
> instructions for installing the main PR wheel pants, so they DO exist.
>
> BUT the point of this message is that the nose wheel fairing will not fit
an
> RV6A...the 'nose cap' or front piece cannot be attached because of
> interference between it and the bottom of the gear leg assembly where the
> attaching nut and 'spring washers' are located.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Are Barstad" <abarstad(at)bconnex.net> |
| Subject: | Elevator balancing problems |
Yes, the weights are now mounted as far forward as possible.
For testing purposes: The left elevator would only balance if I placed both
weights (on top of counter balance skins) with about 1" sticking out forward
of the counter balance skin. The right elevator balanced when I placed both
weights about 1/2" aft of the tip.
It's very easy to accidentally bend the flanges on the leading edge spars
when forming the leading edge. I only noticed in the manual after I was done
that you have to attempt bending without putting too much pressure on the
flanges. It's not easy though but I think it would have turned out better if
I had another try at it :) It looks nice but when or if you bend the
flanges, oil canning WILL occur. I had absolutely zero oil canning before
forming the leading edges.
Hope this helps,
Are
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jack Textor
Sent: October 3, 2000 7:17 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Elevator balancing problems
Are,
I'm close to balancing mine, I too am interested in others thoughts. Did
you mount the weights as far forward as possible? Also regarding the oil
canning, could you explain further about bending the spar flanges.
Thanks,
Jack
Des Moines, IA
RV8 Elevators
I'm having trouble balancing the elevators on my RV-8. The right elevator is
ok (just barely!) but the left elevator is simply too heavy for the counter
balance weights that Van's supplied. I suspect this may be due to the
heavier .020 skins on the -8's.
Anyone else experienced this? It's not even painted yet...
I also have a slight oil canning after forming the leading edge on both
elevators and rudder. I discovered it's caused by inadvertently bending the
flange of the main spars. I have remedied most of it but there is still some
very minor oil canning. Hopefully it will be safe to fly with. These .020
leading edges were &!@$#!@ to bend!!!
Are
RV-8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)mari.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing inspection cover |
Hi Mike:
The access cover is fabricated by the builder. There should be a hunk of Al
in your kit from which to make it. Can't remember the dimensions of it, but
it should be there.
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A
fuse
Peshtigo,WI
-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Nellis <mnellis(at)emailusa.net>
Date: Tuesday, October 03, 2000 5:35 PM
Subject: RV-List: Wing inspection cover
>
>To those that have the prepunched RV-6 wings, did you receive a cover
plate
>for the bell crank inspection opening or is this builder fabricated?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Elevator balancing problems |
Guys,
Remember, the elevators will be bolted TOGETHER at the horns. So, you won't
know the full balance picture until this is done. Bolt the weights on per
plans, and it will work fine. Honest. Don't sweat some oil canning back
there either. Ain't no such thing as a perfectly skinned RV that will never
oilcan. It may not in a cold hangar, but get it outside in the heat and
whoa! You get the picture.
Press on. Build the plane.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
135 hrs.
>
>
>Are,
>I'm close to balancing mine, I too am interested in others thoughts. Did
>you mount the weights as far forward as possible? Also regarding the oil
>canning, could you explain further about bending the spar flanges.
>Thanks,
>Jack
>Des Moines, IA
>RV8 Elevators
>
>I'm having trouble balancing the elevators on my RV-8. The right elevator
>is
>ok (just barely!) but the left elevator is simply too heavy for the counter
>balance weights that Van's supplied. I suspect this may be due to the
>heavier .020 skins on the -8's.
>
>Anyone else experienced this? It's not even painted yet...
>
>I also have a slight oil canning after forming the leading edge on both
>elevators and rudder. I discovered it's caused by inadvertently bending the
>flange of the main spars. I have remedied most of it but there is still
>some
>very minor oil canning. Hopefully it will be safe to fly with. These .020
>leading edges were &!@$#!@ to bend!!!
>
>Are
>RV-8
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carlfro(at)erols.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator balancing problems |
Are,
This doesn't sound right. I had to shave a lot off of the weights to
just get them close (more off the right than left because of the elevator
trim motor). Another local RV-8 builder had the same experience as mine.
Time to call Van's.
Carl Froehlich
RV-8A (cowl)
Vienna, VA
----- Original Message -----
From: Are Barstad <abarstad(at)bconnex.net>
Sent: Tuesday, October 03, 2000 6:38 PM
Subject: RV-List: Elevator balancing problems
>
> I'm having trouble balancing the elevators on my RV-8. The right elevator
is
> ok (just barely!) but the left elevator is simply too heavy for the
counter
> balance weights that Van's supplied. I suspect this may be due to the
> heavier .020 skins on the -8's.
>
> Anyone else experienced this? It's not even painted yet...
>
> I also have a slight oil canning after forming the leading edge on both
> elevators and rudder. I discovered it's caused by inadvertently bending
the
> flange of the main spars. I have remedied most of it but there is still
some
> very minor oil canning. Hopefully it will be safe to fly with. These .020
> leading edges were &!@$#!@ to bend!!!
>
> Are
> RV-8
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | Wing inspection cover |
"Van Artsdalen, Scott"
I made mine out of aluminum too. I was wondering though. Has anyone had
any luck making inspection covers out of Plexiglas? I've seen them on
aerobatic planes and thought they would be great on a preflight to be able
to look at your bellcranks and see that they are OK.
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
-----Original Message-----
From: Jeff Orear [mailto:jorear(at)mari.net]
Sent: Tuesday, October 03, 2000 4:28 PM
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com; Mike Nellis
Subject: Re: RV-List: Wing inspection cover
Hi Mike:
The access cover is fabricated by the builder. There should
be a hunk of Al
in your kit from which to make it. Can't remember the
dimensions of it, but
it should be there.
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A
fuse
Peshtigo,WI
-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Nellis <mnellis(at)emailusa.net>
To: RV-List
Date: Tuesday, October 03, 2000 5:35 PM
Subject: RV-List: Wing inspection cover
>
>To those that have the prepunched RV-6 wings, did you
receive a cover
plate
>for the bell crank inspection opening or is this builder
fabricated?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris Sheehan <ctsheehan(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator balancing problems |
Were you supplied .016 counterweights by mistake?
Counterweights are 3 7/16" long (0.016) or 4 7/16" long (0.020).
Chris
Are Barstad wrote:
>
>
> I'm having trouble balancing the elevators on my RV-8. The right elevator is
> ok (just barely!) but the left elevator is simply too heavy for the counter
> balance weights that Van's supplied. I suspect this may be due to the
> heavier .020 skins on the -8's.
>
> Anyone else experienced this? It's not even painted yet...
>
> I also have a slight oil canning after forming the leading edge on both
> elevators and rudder. I discovered it's caused by inadvertently bending the
> flange of the main spars. I have remedied most of it but there is still some
> very minor oil canning. Hopefully it will be safe to fly with. These .020
> leading edges were &!@$#!@ to bend!!!
>
> Are
> RV-8
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)emailusa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing inspection cover |
Scott, that's why I asked the original question. I'm going to make the
wing inspection covers out of .030 lexan and install two rear fuselage
covers (one on each side instead of just one) as well. I'll let you know
how it goes
Mike Nellis - RV-6 Wings N699BM (res)
Plainfield, IL
http://mnellis.jnet.net/rv-6_page
----- Original Message -----
From: "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com>
Sent: Tuesday, October 03, 2000 8:02 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Wing inspection cover
>
> I made mine out of aluminum too. I was wondering though. Has anyone had
> any luck making inspection covers out of Plexiglas? I've seen them on
> aerobatic planes and thought they would be great on a preflight to be able
> to look at your bellcranks and see that they are OK.
>
> --
> Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
> Network Administrator
> Union Safe Deposit Bank
> 209-946-5116
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jeff Orear [mailto:jorear(at)mari.net]
> Sent: Tuesday, October 03, 2000 4:28 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com; Mike Nellis
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Wing inspection cover
>
>
>
> Hi Mike:
>
> The access cover is fabricated by the builder. There
should
> be a hunk of Al
> in your kit from which to make it. Can't remember the
> dimensions of it, but
> it should be there.
>
> Regards,
>
> Jeff Orear
> RV6A
> fuse
> Peshtigo,WI
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Mike Nellis <mnellis(at)emailusa.net>
> To: RV-List
> Date: Tuesday, October 03, 2000 5:35 PM
> Subject: RV-List: Wing inspection cover
>
>
>
> >
> >To those that have the prepunched RV-6 wings, did you
> receive a cover
> plate
> >for the bell crank inspection opening or is this builder
> fabricated?
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Wing inspection cover |
--- "Van Artsdalen, Scott" wrote:
>
>
> I made mine out of aluminum too. I was wondering though. Has anyone
> had
> any luck making inspection covers out of Plexiglas? I've seen them
> on
> aerobatic planes and thought they would be great on a preflight to be
> able
> to look at your bellcranks and see that they are OK.
Absolutely!
I cut the inspection plates, then cut a hole in that leaving an inch or
so of aluminum plate. Cut plexiglass to fit over the hole (from
behind) with edge distance for screws to attach it to the aluminum,
countersunk for dimpled screw holes in the plate. Use screws to fit
#40 dimpled holes. Now you have an intact inspection plate, aluminum
with plexi center.
Now!.... add a pair of auto backup lights mounted in the flanking ribs
and a 555 timer circuit which will turn those lights for 30 seconds
then shut them off. Mount the button by the inspection cover.
:)
Now you have an intact unit to cover the inspection hole _and_ a means
to see inside rather than carry a flashlight on the walkaround.
Oh... and paint the inside of the wing skins, and the ribs that flank
that bay, white.
Worked for me!
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
September 27, 2000 - October 03, 2000
RV-Archive.digest.vol-jj