RV-Archive.digest.vol-ls
October 16, 2001 - October 23, 2001
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV4" <VansRV4GRVMJ(at)btinternet.com> |
>
> How big is your bladder.....your stock RV6 tanks should be far better than
> 3hrs of flying time.
Slightly smaller than an empty milk bottle................
Marcel
________________________________________________________________________________
MARCEL-
The RV-6 fuel tanks work fine on the RV-4. We've done two sets of them. You
need to cut about 4 inches off the RV-6 tanks. And, they fit nice. Nothing
like extra fuel for IFR and long range flights.
Regards,
TOM
Thomas M. Whelan
Whelan Farms Airport
Post Office Box 426
249 Hard Hill Road North
Bethlehem, CT 06751
PH 203-266-5300
FAX 203-266-5140
e-mail wfact01(at)aol.com
EAA Chapter 1097, President
RV-8 IO-540 LYC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
>
> > The way I understand it for IFR flight an RV or any aircraft per part
> > 91.205.d. would require an artificial horizon gyro and a directional
> > gyro. Does the Dynon with both gyros qualify for this as IFR equipment
> > even though they have not gone through the certification process for
> > production aircraft?
>
>I'm going to go out on a limb here and try and answer this for the Canadians
>on The List. I'll start by saying that I could be wrong because I haven't
>done it yet and I am not in aviation professionally. Kevin, could you step
>in here and correct me if I'm off course?
>
>Our rules say that we must have certain instruments to fly IFR but they
>don't say what make and model. In other words, they say you have to have an
>attitude and a DG but if YOU feel that YOU can garner that information from
>the Dynon instrument then go ahead.
>
>For example, I was going to put a real IFR approved turn coordinator next to
>my Navaid autopilot. Some feel that this is a waste of money and weight. The
>Navaid should count for IFR in my home built. Over to you Kevin........
>
>Norman Hunger
>RV6A Delta BC
I requested a clarification on the regulations in Canada awhile ago. I
contacted the section in Transport Canada that is responsible for
regulating homebuilts, and asked them whether we needed to install TSO'd
equipment to get an IFR approval. They responded that there was no
requirement for TSO'd instruments or avionics, but that the instruments
and avionics installed had to work satisfactorily (this was paraphrased
from a long e-mail thread).
So, in Canada, builders should be able to install whatever they want, but
they should plan suitable flight testing in VFR conditions to determine
whether the instruments and equipment function correctly before they go for
the IFR approval. Bottom line - you must have all the equipment required
by the regs, but the equipment doesn't have to be approved.
I'm not sure how the regs are interpreted in the US, but I suspect it would
be be similiar.
Take care,
Kevin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris & Susie" <rv6(at)ssc.net.au> |
Could anyone tell me what frequency a transponder works on, I want to work
out the length of coax.
Chris and Susie
VH-MUM (reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: SPITS AND SPUTERS |
Ken Stribling wrote:
<< > Well I now have a little over 10 hours on my plane and I have a running
> problem.
> When climbing out It started to miss tonight, I panicked and leveled out ,
> went full rich and turned for the pattern and landed, It seemed to clear
up
> when rpm dropped to 2200 and stopped pulling. >>
Look for induction system leaks. A friend with a C-172 saw some similar
problems after he replaced a cylinder. Turned out that one of the plugs that
sealed a primer port wasn't installed, and created a nice 1/8" NPT size leak
on the induction side. The engine ran fine in some RPM ranges, not so well
in others.
Good luck,
Kyle Boatright
0-320/Aymar Demuth RV-6 Slider
Kennesaw, GA
http://www.angelfire.com/my/rv6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don Hyde <DonH(at)axonn.com> |
| Subject: | Not quite RV relevant, but interesting, I think. |
From: RCR Wireless News Oct 8 (An trade mag for the wireless industry)
Iridium offers technology to FAA for surveillance use
...
Iridium submitted to the Federal Aviation Asministration and other
appropriate government agencies a proposal last week for real-time airline
cockpit voice and flight data monitoring utilizing its 66 low-earth-orbit
satellites.
...
Under Iridium's proposal, the voice and data signals captured by the cockpit
voice and flight data recorders would be transmitted via existing
FAA-certified equipment to the Iridium satellite constellation and sent
directly to FAA data centers for live monitoring.
Iridium said the capability could be enabled quickly using its satellites
and off-the-shelf components.
...
Hmmm... No need to dig into the smoking crater for little red "black boxes"
before starting the crash investigation.
Don Hyde dhyde(at)axonn.com
Senior Software Engineer
Axonn Corporation http://www.axonn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bryan Jones" <rv_8pilot(at)hotmail.com> |
I believe it's 1030-1090 MHz. The radius of cable bends affects the signal
strength - small radius is bad, so I heard.
Bryan Jones -8
Pearland, Texas
>From: "Chris & Susie" <rv6(at)ssc.net.au>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: Transponder
>Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2001 07:47:51 +1000
>
>
>Could anyone tell me what frequency a transponder works on, I want to work
>out the length of coax.
>
>Chris and Susie
>VH-MUM (reserved)
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "J D Newsum" <jdnewsum(at)qwest.net> |
Transponders receive interrogations on 1030Mhz and transmit replies on 1090
Mhz,
Chris & Susie wrote:
>
> Could anyone tell me what frequency a transponder works on, I want to work
> out the length of coax.
>
> Chris and Susie
> VH-MUM (reserved)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Transponders transmit on 1090 Mhz and receive on 1030 Mhz. The length of
coax shouldn't a concern as much as the length of the antenna. Transponder
antennas are 1/4 wavlength as are your vhf com antennas.
-Don
RV8 NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don Hyde <DonH(at)axonn.com> |
It's about 1050 MHz so the wavelength's a little under a foot, but the thing
about the coax needing to be some magic number of quarter-waves or whatever
is an old wive's tale.
That's fortunate, because it would be pretty hard to get it right. A
correctly-made transponder antenna is 1/4 wave long, and it's pretty short.
You would have to get the length accurate to 1/4" or less, which is pretty
hard to do with coax. You would have to know how much coax is inside the
transponder box between the connector on the back and the final amplifier
inside. You would also need accurate data on the propagation velocity in
the type of coax you're using, since it's significantly lower than the
vacuum speed of light.
Just use good-quality 50-ohm coax, make sure the connectors are properly
installed, and avoid tight bends. It'll work just fine without trying to
tune it to a magic length.
To be fair, carefully-tuned lengths of coax are sometimes used to create
impedence transformers which are useful with certain types of antennas. But
standard 50-ohm coax was chosen deliberately to match the 50-ohm
characteristic impedence of a 1/4-wave antenna, and the circuitry inside
your radios was designed to match that same impedence. All this was done
partly so that the length of the transmission line wouldn't matter.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Chris & Susie [mailto:rv6(at)ssc.net.au]
> Sent: Tuesday, October 16, 2001 4:48 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Transponder
>
>
>
> Could anyone tell me what frequency a transponder works on, I
> want to work
> out the length of coax.
>
> Chris and Susie
> VH-MUM (reserved)
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Henley" <rv6plt(at)netzero.net> |
| Subject: | Re: SPITS AND SPUTERS |
Ken,
I have been through the spits and sputters with my H2AD also. Check the
aechives (pre 95) or maybe this is where you got the idea to drill the jets.
Why were you leaned out? Are you sure the float level is right? I finally
ended up buying a overhauled carb (after rebuilding mine and having a very
good IA go through it also). Never did find anything wrong but got tired of
messing with it. Yours sounds exactly like what mine did. If I can be of
further help, call me @ 850-609-3175/
John Henley, N6LD, 470 Hrs
----- Original Message -----
From: Garry LeGare <"versadek"@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: SPITS AND SPUTERS
>
> Ken,
> Trying to trouble shoot an issue over the internet very difficult but here
goes.
>
> You said while climbing out, then you said you went full rich after the
problem
> started.
> Was your density altitude that high that you had to lean the engine at
full
> power? Or is your mixture too rich because of the jet work you did? An
over rich
> condition won't cause a miss, unless you foul a plug. Since you said it
cleared
> up at 2200 rpm, a fouled plug is probably not the issue. Pull the top
plugs and
> look at the color. They should be a light tan color. If they are black
then the
> mixture is probably an issue and you'll have to go thru the carb to see
why.
> What else did you do to the carb ? Did you set and adjust everything to
factory
> specs?
> Are your plug leads new or old? Old leads could be breaking down, which
causes
> symptoms such as you have described. How old are your mags, if they are
used you
> should check inside for hairline cracks and general cleanliness as dirt
can
> cause misfiring and usually only at high power settings so your engine
will run
> fine at lower power and at idle.
> With a little more info we might be able to nail it down for you.
> Garry "Casper"
>
> Ken Stribling wrote:
>
> >
> > Well I now have a little over 10 hours on my plane and I have a running
> > problem.
> > When climbing out It started to miss tonight, I panicked and leveled out
,
> > went full rich and turned for the pattern and landed, It seemed to clear
up
> > when rpm dropped to 2200 and stopped pulling.
> >
> > I have drilled out the main jet to 39 and it ran real smooth, just had
the
> > mags timed and starts great with lots of power, sounded good on run up,
just
> > finished rebuilding carb replaced throttle shaft and rebushed the
housing so
> > have a tight seal on throttle shaft, the plugs have 8 hours on them and
were
> > just cleaned today when they set the mag and did a compression test
which
> > was fine. Because I wanted to get it down I did not try checking the
mags or
> > running leaner to see if it would fix the problem.
> >
> > I am running a 0320 h2ad with fuel pumps running about 30 gals an hour
so I
> > dont think I was running lean but I may have. I was climbing out at
about
> > 1200 fpm.
> >
> > Any one had a problem like this or could point me in a direction to
start
> > looking before a next flight would be welcome.
> >
> > Thanks Ken 151RV 6A
> >
> >
>
>
----------------------------------------------------
Sign Up for NetZero Platinum Today
Only $9.95 per month!
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | joe wiza <jwiza1(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Navaid/Wing tanks |
Listers
I would like to thank all the installation navaid
types for the input. I installed the navaid between
the number 2 and 3 ribs (passenger side) and so far
the results work fine, no elevator intervention in
turns. The servo shaft is about 4" long. The Super 6
pilot Boyd was of great assistance. If anyone is
contemplating the installation between the two ribs
(2&3)rather then cuting out the number 2 rib. Please
email me I may have some helpfull hints.
Anyone out there with the 10 gal wing tanks
installed? I'm thinking about doing the same any Pro's
or con's. Thanks ahead.
Joe
RV6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
| Subject: | Re: SPITS AND SPUTERS |
Cy Galley wrote:
>
>
> carb ice!
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Ken Stribling" <bbattery(at)bendcable.com>
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: SPITS AND SPUTERS
>
>
> Well I now have a little over 10 hours on my plane and I have a running
> problem.
> When climbing out It started to miss tonight, I panicked and leveled out ,
> went full rich and turned for the pattern and landed, It seemed to clear up
> when rpm dropped to 2200 and stopped pulling.
>
> I have drilled out the main jet to 39 and it ran real smooth, just had the
> mags timed and starts great with lots of power, sounded good on run up, just
> finished rebuilding carb replaced throttle shaft and rebushed the housing so
> have a tight seal on throttle shaft, the plugs have 8 hours on them and were
> just cleaned today when they set the mag and did a compression test which
> was fine. Because I wanted to get it down I did not try checking the mags or
> running leaner to see if it would fix the problem.
>
> I am running a 0320 h2ad with fuel pumps running about 30 gals an hour so I
> dont think I was running lean but I may have. I was climbing out at about
> 1200 fpm.
>
> Any one had a problem like this or could point me in a direction to start
> looking before a next flight would be welcome.
>
> Thanks Ken 151RV 6A
30 gal/hr even at 0.7 lb per hp/hr should be almost 260 hp.
Could you be running too rich?
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
dear listers,
i have 2 wingtip antenia's, 1 com and 1 nav, i was planning on installing 1
ant in each wing, but i am going to have the navaid auto pilot in 1 wing.
which ant, should i put in the tip with the Navaid? or do i put both ants in
1 wing and the Navaid by itself?
thanks in advance
scott
tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net> |
List: I have decided to go the circuit breaker route on my RV6-A wiring
system.
The aircraft will be running a 60 AMP Alternator and set up for
IFR including heated pitot. Does anyone on the list have a like equipped
RV? How about a web site with helpful hints covering this type of Wiring
Project?
"Panel City"
Tom
in Ohio
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: SPITS AND SPUTERS |
In a message dated 10/16/2001 7:10:27 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
rv6plt(at)netzero.net writes:
> Ken,
> I have been through the spits and sputters with my H2AD also. Check the
> aechives (pre 95) or maybe this is where you got the idea to drill the jets.
> Why were you leaned out? Are you sure the float level is right? I finally
> ended up buying a overhauled carb (after rebuilding mine and having a very
> good IA go through it also). Never did find anything wrong but got tired of
> messing with it. Yours sounds exactly like what mine did. If I can be of
> further help, call me @ 850-609-3175/
>
> John Henley, N6LD, 470 Hrs
>
Ditto. My O-320-E2D with drilled-out jet gave me intermittent fits (and max
pucker factor a time or two) until I replaced the carb with a new OEM carb
sold by Van for use with the new Lycoming 160 hp engine. I stumbled into a
good deal from a fellow lister who decided to go with fuel injection and sold
me his unused new carb at a discount. Everything has been hunky dory since.
On tear-down of the old carb, everything looked and measured to factory spec,
except my drilling job on the main jet (#37). Sure didn't work right,
though!
Hi to you, John. Will says you are back building again... a 7?
Bill Boyd
RV-6A O-320/Sensenich FP
Hop-Along Air Field, 12VA
Clifton Forge, VA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paulbaird(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Not quite RV relevant, but interesting, I think. |
ALPA will never let this happen!!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Garth Shearing" <garth(at)Islandnet.com> |
The transmitter frequency is 1090 MHz +/- 3 MHz and the receiver frequency
is 1030 MHz.
However, the coax length can be any convenient length. It doesn't have to
be cut to any exact length. For maximum transmitter power out of the
antenna, the shorter the better.
Garth Shearing
VariEze and 80% RV6A
----- Original Message -----
From: Chris & Susie <rv6(at)ssc.net.au>
Subject: RV-List: Transponder
>
> Could anyone tell me what frequency a transponder works on, I want to work
> out the length of coax.
>
> Chris and Susie
> VH-MUM (reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kenneth beene <kbeene(at)citilink.com> |
>
> i have 2 wingtip antenia's, 1 com and 1 nav, i was planning on installing 1
> ant in each wing, but i am going to have the navaid auto pilot in 1 wing.
> which ant, should i put in the tip with the Navaid? or do i put both ants in
> 1 wing and the Navaid by itself?
> thanks in advance
> scott
Put the nav antenna in the tip of the wing with the Navaid Servo. You might get
some coupling of the xmit RF back down the coax from the transmit side. The
servo becomes erratic when this happens.
Ken
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Norman" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: AeroElectric-List: Dynon Screen Brightness |
Concerning how bright things are and what is acceptable, I researched
Powersports display that the post below declares is marginal. The poster
thought the screen was 600 nits and thinks that 700 is required. According
to Powersport's webpage
http://www.powersportaviation.com/Home/Engines/glass.htm
their screen is 350 nits. Dynon reports that their screen is 450 nits. This
information puts Dynon almost 30% brighter than Powersport and I wonder if
the original poster feels that this would be bright enough?
> I'd be leery of this until I actually saw it in sunlight. I looked at the
> Powersport engine monitor in their demo RV-6 at Oshkosh 2000 and found
the
> display marginal (washed out and hard to read) even at the optimal viewing
> angle. Off angle it was unusable. IIRC their screen was 600 nits. Good
> contrast and a wide viewing angle will certainly help but in a bright RV
> cockpit you need all the nits you can get. I've been looking for a 10.4
> display and my minimum is 700 nits with 1000+ preferred. Haven't found one
> yet at a reasonable price.
I have asked Dynon to take a unit outside and play with it in the sun. If
and when they get back to me I will report their claims. For now I am still
hoping that the Dynon display is good enough because I want one.
Norman Hunger
RV6A Delta BC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Curt Reimer" <cgreimer(at)mb.sympatico.ca> |
Based on the interpretation you received from Transport Canada do you think
a GPS could subsitute for a DG? I want to equip my -6 for night VFR but I'd
like to avoid the weight of a vacuum system. I'm just interested in an
occasional clear-weather night flight. I do plan on an electric turn
coordinator but electric DG and Horizon are a bit pricey.
Curt
winnipeg.ca
----- Original Message -----
>
> >
> So, in Canada, builders should be able to install whatever they want, but
> they should plan suitable flight testing in VFR conditions to determine
> whether the instruments and equipment function correctly before they go
for
> the IFR approval. Bottom line - you must have all the equipment required
> by the regs, but the equipment doesn't have to be approved.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ken Stribling" <bbattery(at)bendcable.com> |
| Subject: | Re: SPITS AND SPUTERS |
Thanks for the reply
30 gal is free fuel flow through fuel line disconnected at the carb.
>
> 30 Gallons per hour?? I sure hope that was a typo!. Mine would surge a
> little bit when I did not have my airbox completely sealed up. You might
> want to check the seal on the front AND back of the airbox as well. Also,
> check that 30 gal/hour thing..you are getting ripped off on fuel!
>
> Paul Besing
> RV-6A N197AB Arizona
> http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
> Flying
> Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
> http://www.kitlog.com
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org>
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: SPITS AND SPUTERS
>
>
> carb ice!
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Ken Stribling" <bbattery(at)bendcable.com>
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: SPITS AND SPUTERS
>
>
> Well I now have a little over 10 hours on my plane and I have a running
> problem.
> When climbing out It started to miss tonight, I panicked and leveled out ,
> went full rich and turned for the pattern and landed, It seemed to clear
up
> when rpm dropped to 2200 and stopped pulling.
>
> I have drilled out the main jet to 39 and it ran real smooth, just had the
> mags timed and starts great with lots of power, sounded good on run up,
just
> finished rebuilding carb replaced throttle shaft and rebushed the housing
so
> have a tight seal on throttle shaft, the plugs have 8 hours on them and
were
> just cleaned today when they set the mag and did a compression test which
> was fine. Because I wanted to get it down I did not try checking the mags
or
> running leaner to see if it would fix the problem.
>
> I am running a 0320 h2ad with fuel pumps running about 30 gals an hour so
I
> dont think I was running lean but I may have. I was climbing out at about
> 1200 fpm.
>
> Any one had a problem like this or could point me in a direction to start
> looking before a next flight would be welcome.
>
> Thanks Ken 151RV 6A
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
Curt,
I don't think there is much chance of this, as the CARs specifically say
"No person shall conduct a take-off in a power-driven aircraft for the
purpose of night VFR flight, unless it is equipped with ... where the
aircraft is operated so that an aerodrome is not visible from the aircraft,
a stabilized magnetic direction indicator or a gyroscopic direction
indicator". See CAR 605.16 (f)
So, if you only want to go up and do circuits at the airport you took off
from you don't need the DG, but that isn't very interesting.
Take care,
Kevin
>
>Based on the interpretation you received from Transport Canada do you think
>a GPS could subsitute for a DG? I want to equip my -6 for night VFR but I'd
>like to avoid the weight of a vacuum system. I'm just interested in an
>occasional clear-weather night flight. I do plan on an electric turn
>coordinator but electric DG and Horizon are a bit pricey.
>
>Curt
>
>winnipeg.ca
>----- Original Message -----
>
> >
> > >
> > So, in Canada, builders should be able to install whatever they want, but
> > they should plan suitable flight testing in VFR conditions to determine
> > whether the instruments and equipment function correctly before they go
>for
> > the IFR approval. Bottom line - you must have all the equipment required
> > by the regs, but the equipment doesn't have to be approved.
> >
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark McGee" <riveter(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | RV-4 Fuselage Construction |
Builders,
I have recently resumed work on my RV-4 after moving from New York to
Atlanta and building a 42' x 60' hangar at a small residential airport.
My tail section and wings are complete and the fuselage parts are in various
stages of assembly.
My current problem is the mating of the longerons with the firewall
weldments, WD-402 and WD-403. The weldments are not made at the same angle
as the longerons are bent. To make them mate, I would have to:
1. Pull the longerons in to make up the 1/8" inch gap.
2. Cut the weldments at the bend.
3. Bend the longerons so they lay flat on the weldment.
Van's told me to bend the longerons and make a spacer so the skins will lay
flat. I'm not questioning this, but I want to know what other builders have
done.
There are several references in the archives to this problem, so it is not
uncommon.
Also, if anyone wants to see my RV-4 project or is interested in seeing a
Miracle Truss hangar, you are welcome to come see mine. Or see it on the web
at:
http://springvalley.home.mindspring.com/markhang.htm
Mark McGee
RV-4 Builder 4244
Loganville, GA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stucklen, Frederic IFC" <stuckle(at)ifc.utc.com> |
| Subject: | Two Speed Elevator Trim Vs Mechanical Trim |
Sam,
How much slop (free play) do you have in the manual trim system. If you
trim in one direction, how much do you have to turn the trim knob in the
opposite direction to get back to where you were?
Most systems have this free play. I did see a very nice installation on a
plane on Long Island (FOK) that used a spring between the elevator trim horn
and the trim tab, that kept constant tension on the trim cable, thereby
eliminating any free play. Nice setup, with the trim cable going through the
center of the spring.....
Fred Stucklen
N925RV (1750 hrs/8 Yrs)
E. Windsor, CT 06088
WK Email: stuckle(at)ifc.utc.com
Hm/Travel Email: wstucklen1(at)juno.com
____
From: Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Two Speed Elevator Trim
Norman wrote:
> PS - Sending to The List as this mod needs further discussion and
many
> builders are interested in a two speed elevator trim. For those
just tuning
> in there was a discussion many months ago where flying RVers were
> complaining about how the trim is too sensitive at high speed
cruise. They
> were installing servo speed controlers (one made by Mac and the
other by
> Matronics) then complaining that trimming was taking too long at
pattern
> speed. Hence the two speed electric elevator trim modification.
The manual elevator trim works great at low and high speeds........
:-)
Sam Buchanan (RV-6, what an awesome flying day Monday was in the
southeast USA.....North Alabama to Gatlinburg, TN for lunch/leaf
viewing
and back in the office by 3:00pm........)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Brick" <jbrick(at)wolfenet.com> |
| Subject: | RV-4 Fuselage Construction |
I did not bend the longerons...I made tapered shims from aluminum bar stock
to go between the longerons and weldments.
jb
RV-4
Electrical
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Mark McGee
Subject: RV-List: RV-4 Fuselage Construction
Builders,
I have recently resumed work on my RV-4 after moving from New York to
Atlanta and building a 42' x 60' hangar at a small residential airport.
My tail section and wings are complete and the fuselage parts are in various
stages of assembly.
My current problem is the mating of the longerons with the firewall
weldments, WD-402 and WD-403. The weldments are not made at the same angle
as the longerons are bent. To make them mate, I would have to:
1. Pull the longerons in to make up the 1/8" inch gap.
2. Cut the weldments at the bend.
3. Bend the longerons so they lay flat on the weldment.
Van's told me to bend the longerons and make a spacer so the skins will lay
flat. I'm not questioning this, but I want to know what other builders have
done.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael B. Mckenna" <mmckenna(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: SPITS AND SPUTERS |
A drilled main jet can flow less fuel than an smaller un-drilled jet. A
drilled jet has a rough surface that looses its designed transition contour.
You may need richer jetting, but drilling it might give you the opposite
result you expect.
Mike Mckenna RV-8
Lawrenceville, Ga.
----- Original Message -----
From: <SportAV8R(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: SPITS AND SPUTERS
>
> In a message dated 10/16/2001 7:10:27 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
> rv6plt(at)netzero.net writes:
>
>
> > Ken,
> > I have been through the spits and sputters with my H2AD also. Check
the
> > aechives (pre 95) or maybe this is where you got the idea to drill the
jets.
> > Why were you leaned out? Are you sure the float level is right? I
finally
> > ended up buying a overhauled carb (after rebuilding mine and having a
very
> > good IA go through it also). Never did find anything wrong but got tired
of
> > messing with it. Yours sounds exactly like what mine did. If I can be of
> > further help, call me @ 850-609-3175/
> >
> > John Henley, N6LD, 470 Hrs
> >
>
> Ditto. My O-320-E2D with drilled-out jet gave me intermittent fits (and
max
> pucker factor a time or two) until I replaced the carb with a new OEM carb
> sold by Van for use with the new Lycoming 160 hp engine. I stumbled into
a
> good deal from a fellow lister who decided to go with fuel injection and
sold
> me his unused new carb at a discount. Everything has been hunky dory
since.
> On tear-down of the old carb, everything looked and measured to factory
spec,
> except my drilling job on the main jet (#37). Sure didn't work right,
> though!
>
> Hi to you, John. Will says you are back building again... a 7?
>
> Bill Boyd
> RV-6A O-320/Sensenich FP
> Hop-Along Air Field, 12VA
> Clifton Forge, VA
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | Two Speed Elevator Trim Vs Mechanical Trim |
Hi Fred,
I'm not Sam, and I don't play him on TV, but I have 6+ hours on my newly
hatched RV-6A. I believe that there is no free play while in flight. My
manual trim gives me instant response when I turn the knob. At 150-170 mph
the slightest turn gives an instant and proportional nose up or down
response. At 80 mph, one notch on the knob seems to produce 3.5 mph change
in airspeed, after the airplane stabilizes in pitch. I am still working to
quantify this kind of thing as part of the test flight phase.
Steve Soule
RV-6A N227RV
Huntington, Vermont
-----Original Message-----
How much slop (free play) do you have in the manual trim system. If you
trim in one direction, how much do you have to turn the trim knob in the
opposite direction to get back to where you were?
Most systems have this free play. I did see a very nice installation on a
plane on Long Island (FOK) that used a spring between the elevator trim horn
and the trim tab, that kept constant tension on the trim cable, thereby
eliminating any free play. Nice setup, with the trim cable going through the
center of the spring.....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Bundy" <ebundy(at)velocitus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Two Speed Elevator Trim Vs Mechanical Trim |
I'm not Sam, but as a very satisfied manual-trim user I thought I'd chime
in. I don't have to reverse trim at all. The entire trim range is only
about 2 turns, and in cruise flight there is only about a 45-60 degree
spread.
That said, there is a very slight amount of free play at the tab while on
the ground, but in flight the air load keeps it at one end of the range or
the other so there is no "flopping" of the tab. In cruise, down-elevator
trim is necessary and in slow flight or pattern speed the trim is for
up-elevator, so there is a place where the tab goes from one end of the
range to the other, but it isn't noticeable (to me anyway). When I slow
from cruise and after I drop some flap it takes about 1.5 turns of the knob
and it transitions the "flop zone", but with that much quick change any free
play is unnoticeable. I've even played with it slowly to find that
transition zone, and if you do it slowly you can just barely perceive where
it takes place, but in practice it doesn't exist.
YMMV,
Ed Bundy - RV6A N427EM 400+ hours
160hp 0320 w/Sensenich 70x78
Eagle, ID
ebundy(at)velocitus.net
> How much slop (free play) do you have in the manual trim system. If you
> trim in one direction, how much do you have to turn the trim knob in the
> opposite direction to get back to where you were?
> Most systems have this free play.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dane Sheahen" <dane3(at)attglobal.net> |
One thing Dick Martin pointed out to me is that if you have wing tip
antennas do not use metallic paint on the wing tips. Evidently it effects
the reception and transmission.
????????????
?????
i have 2 wingtip antenia's, 1 com and 1 nav, i was planning on installing 1
ant in each wing, but i am going to have the navaid auto pilot in 1 wing.
which ant, should i put in the tip with the Navaid? or do i put both ants in
1 wing and the Navaid by itself?
thanks in advance
scott
tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Doug Gray <douggray(at)ihug.com.au> |
| Subject: | Re: Two Speed Elevator Trim Vs Mechanical Trim |
> I did see a very nice installation on a
> plane on Long Island (FOK) that used a spring between the elevator trim horn
> and the trim tab, that kept constant tension on the trim cable, thereby
> eliminating any free play. Nice setup, with the trim cable going through the
> center of the spring.....
>
> Fred Stucklen
Thanks Fred, another great idea from the RV-List...
I assume the spring was in compression, ie streaching the trim cable?
Doug Gray
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michel" <michelboucher594(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Two Speed Elevator Trim Vs Mechanical Trim |
The spring system is what is on my RV3 and it is as per the plans of 1979.
It works perfectly but may not have enough authority for a larger aircraft
as is.
> How much slop (free play) do you have in the manual trim system. If you
>trim in one direction, how much do you have to turn the trim knob in the
>opposite direction to get back to where you were?
> Most systems have this free play. I did see a very nice installation on
a
>plane on Long Island (FOK) that used a spring between the elevator trim
horn
>and the trim tab, that kept constant tension on the trim cable, thereby
>eliminating any free play. Nice setup, with the trim cable going through
the
>center of the spring.....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
| Subject: | Imron over Sherwin Williams |
Does anyone have any first hand experience if Dupont Imron will be
combatable with Sherwin Williams 988 primer? I don't want to prime any
outside parts unless I know it will work with Imron.
Thanks!
Paul Besing
RV-6A N197AB Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Flying
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Two Speed Elevator Trim Vs Mechanical Trim |
Fred, even though I have heard comments such as yours concerning free
play in the manual trim system, I have never experienced it in my
installation. In flight I can turn the knob an eighth of a turn for a
very slight adjustment and it takes effect without any need for further
adjustment. There is some play in the trim tab when I do a pre-flight,
but I just always assumed the airloads took out the play in flight.
Don't know if this is a factor, but I have the locking knob tightened
down sufficiently that it would be very difficult to accidentally
push/pull the trim knob (such as would be the case if you got the trim
knob confused with the throttle) with the resulting large trim change.
This means there is tension on the "turning" part of the knob and maybe
that camouflages any play in the system. But I never have to jockey the
knob back and forth to work around the slack in the cable that you
describe.
I have found the manual trim to work flawlessly (unlike every electric
trim system I have seen on an RV) and I can trim at whatever speed I
wish. The difference between cruise trim and final approach trim is
between 1.5 and 2.0 turns of the knob.
The trim spring does sound like an elegant solution for those who may
have some slack in the cable.
Sam Buchanan (RV-6, 320 hrs)
"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
=============================
"Stucklen, Frederic IFC" wrote:
>
> Sam,
>
> How much slop (free play) do you have in the manual trim system. If you
> trim in one direction, how much do you have to turn the trim knob in the
> opposite direction to get back to where you were?
> Most systems have this free play. I did see a very nice installation on a
> plane on Long Island (FOK) that used a spring between the elevator trim horn
> and the trim tab, that kept constant tension on the trim cable, thereby
> eliminating any free play. Nice setup, with the trim cable going through the
> center of the spring.....
>
> Fred Stucklen
> N925RV (1750 hrs/8 Yrs)
> E. Windsor, CT 06088
> WK Email: stuckle(at)ifc.utc.com
> Hm/Travel Email: wstucklen1(at)juno.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Bundy" <ebundy(at)velocitus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Monitor |
Hi Bob. I haven't used, nor will I ever use JPI in any aircraft I own or
have influence over. I think you'll find similar responses from most people
on the RV-list. You may want to search "jpi" from around mid-1999 in the
archives for further
info.
Ed Bundy - RV6A N427EM 400+ hours
160hp 0320 w/Sensenich 70x78
Eagle, ID
ebundy(at)velocitus.net
> Has anyone on the list installed a JPI engine monitor in a "production"
> airplane. I'm looking at having this installed in my Commander 112.
>
> Is JPI the best bet?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Luker <melsmike(at)yahoo.com> |
Divorce forces sale of very fast professionally built
RV6A completed in 1996, Located in Dodge Center MN.
Aircraft has approximately 180 hrs TT, Engine is a
balanced 0-360-A1A narrow deck, with approximately 180
hrs TT after total rebuild. Aircraft is equiped with
an Aymar Demuth 68/78 wood propeller. Instrument
panel includes Air speed ind, Turn and Bank,
ALtimeter, Vertical climb ind, Gyro artificial
Horizon, Turn and Bank. Altitude encoded Transponder,
MK11 Comm, Rocky Mountain engine Analyzer, G meter,
and compass. PS enginering Intercom, and Skystar hand
held GPS. Skyteck starter, light weight alternator.
The airplane was professionally built by an A@P with
many years of expereince, who has built many RV's. All
of which are still flying. The RV was inspected
regularly by another A@P AI and went through the EAA
technical Counselor program inspections. The aircraft
is straight true and very well built. Terms of the
sale will be cash, Buyer will be required to sign a
hold harmless agreement bill of sale. Asking price is
$72,000.00 OBO. If interested, Serious inquires only,
Please respond to this email address only, and I will
get back to you ASAP. Attached is an article and
picture of the plane
http://www.vansaircraft.com/public/meetbld4.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Sears" <sears(at)searnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Two Speed Elevator Trim Vs Mechanical Trim |
> Fred, even though I have heard comments such as yours concerning free
> play in the manual trim system, I have never experienced it in my
> installation. In flight I can turn the knob an eighth of a turn for a
> very slight adjustment and it takes effect without any need for further
> adjustment. There is some play in the trim tab when I do a pre-flight,
> but I just always assumed the airloads took out the play in flight.
That is my observation, also. I've got about 150 tach hours on my RV-6A and
really like the manual trim. If I build another RV, I'll most likely go
with manual trim again. It's very simple and needs very little maintenance.
The replacement parts are probably cheaper, too. Another side benefit is
that it still works when the electrical system doesn't. That may not be so
important to some; but, it can happen.
> Don't know if this is a factor, but I have the locking knob tightened
> down sufficiently that it would be very difficult to accidentally
> push/pull the trim knob
I removed the push button on my manual trim and don't even think about the
push/pull. If memory serves me, the removal of the button prevents the
push/pull, anyway. On the other hand, I goof from time to time because I
don't use the push/pull that much on the throttle, either! Just at take
off.
I guess we can't build them idiot proof. :-)
> I have found the manual trim to work flawlessly (unlike every electric
> trim system I have seen on an RV) and I can trim at whatever speed I
> wish. The difference between cruise trim and final approach trim is
> between 1.5 and 2.0 turns of the knob.
Yep. That meets my findings. I've read quite a bit on this list about the
problems encountered with electric trims; so, I consider my choice better
for me. It's simple and works quite well. The big negative for it is the
weight of the cable going to the back. Even that isn't a big deal.
Jim Sears in KY
RV-6A N198JS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wiring Diagram |
I Installed a full IFR in my -8A, to include a heated Pitot-Static tube. I
used vacumm gyros to help reduce the load and ended up being able to use a
45 amp alternator. Unsure about the -6 but the cowling on the -8A would
have had to be modified to fit around the pulley. I installed the Visions
VM-1000 engine monitoring system, a Garmin 430 GPS/NAV/COM, and Apollo SL40
com and a King KT76 transponder. The only thing I tried to be cautious
about was making sure I did not turn on both landing and taxi lights if I
had the Heated Pitot tube on. The alternator would handle it but I just
figured I didn't want to push it. By the way, FWIW, I used a Nippon Dienso
small case alternator.
Mike Robertson
RV-8A
>From: "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: Wiring Diagram
>Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 20:28:01 -0400
>
>
>List: I have decided to go the circuit breaker route on my RV6-A wiring
>system.
> The aircraft will be running a 60 AMP Alternator and set up for
>IFR including heated pitot. Does anyone on the list have a like equipped
>RV? How about a web site with helpful hints covering this type of Wiring
>Project?
>
>"Panel City"
> Tom
>in Ohio
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Imron over Sherwin Williams |
In a message dated 10/17/01 7:20:24 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
azpilot(at)extremezone.com writes:
>
> Does anyone have any first hand experience if Dupont Imron will be
> combatable with Sherwin Williams 988 primer? I don't want to prime any
> outside parts unless I know it will work with Imron.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Paul Besing
> RV-6A N197AB Arizona
>
Paul call the Dupont Color Lab and have this question answered first hand,
this stuff cost to much to make a mistake.....COLOR LAB 1-800-338-7668
Good Luck
Tim Barnes
N39TB
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Imron over Sherwin Williams |
| From: | pichon.dean(at)ADLittle.com |
10/17/2001 12:36:07 PM
Hi Paul,
My -4 is currently being painted by a local paint shop. They are using a
Sherwin Williams epoxy primer with an Imron top coat. I don't know that
the (Sherwin Williams) P/N being used is 988, but it's probably the same.
I went to check the progress on my aircraft and saw it with fresh primer.
It is a pale green color with a slight gloss to it. Is this similar to
your 988 primer?
I carefully primed all surfaces inside and out during construction. In the
end, priming the outside was probably a waste of time and money. None of
the paint shops I talked with were happy to find the outside of the plane
had already been primed. Two shops wanted to remove the primer I had
lovingly applied simply because they were unfamiliar with it (Deft) and did
not want to risk their paint job to a potentially inferior primer. Others
were satisfied to scuff sand the existing primer and re-prime over it.
Painters seem to like to apply topcoats over fresh primer. Even if you use
"the right primer" (at least according to your painter), by the time you
are ready for topcoat, the primer will be quite old. The paint shop will
likely apply new primer regardless.
Good luck,
Dean
|--------+---------------------------------->
| | "Paul Besing" |
| | |
| | Sent by: |
| | owner-rv-list-server@mat|
| | ronics.com |
| | |
| | |
| | 10/17/01 10:22 AM |
| | Please respond to |
| | rv-list |
| | |
|--------+---------------------------------->
|
|
| To:
|
| cc:
|
| bcc:
|
| Subject: RV-List: Imron over Sherwin Williams
|
Does anyone have any first hand experience if Dupont Imron will be
combatable with Sherwin Williams 988 primer? I don't want to prime any
outside parts unless I know it will work with Imron.
Thanks!
Paul Besing
RV-6A N197AB Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Flying
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
**** This is intended for the addressee only and may contain
confidential business information. It may not be copied
without our permission. If you are not the intended recipient,
please contact the sender as soon as possible and
delete the material from any computer.****
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LeastDrag93066(at)aol.com |
If your two wingtip antenna's are from Sportcraft, you need to mount one in
each wingtip.
A COM and a NAV in the same wingtip will interfere with each others operation.
If the Navaid autopilot can be mounted on the inboard side of the wingtip
rib, it will not affect either antenna.
I'm not familiar with the Navaid autopilot, yet. (RV-3's were strongly
encouraged to have just a basic panel. A COM radio was installed only if
absolutely necessary.) If the Navaid autopilot is just a box, mounting it on
the outboard side of the wingtip rib near the trailing edge wouldn't affect
either antenna, either.
If you install the marker beacon antenna kit, it should be mounted in the
same wingtip as the NAV antenna. And the Navaid autopilot should mount in
the opposite wingtip.
I hope this helps, rather than confuses.
Jim Ayers
RV-3 sn 50 N47RV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6160hp(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | RV4 KIT FOR SALE |
POSTED ON BARNSTORMERS SITE TODAY:
RV4 KIT FOR SALE!! RV4 Kit for sale. Tail complete. The, wings and fuel tanks
all complete less lower skin riveted on (all drilled)& include the Phlogoston
Spar option. Fuselage kit barely started but there. Have engine mount and landing
gear, have a new canopy too. As well have older style fiberglass cowl. Your
finishing kit costs will be less than half current costs then. It is an older
kit, it is primed. A wood fuselage Jig can be had also. Prefer email inquiries
please at mcmand(at)aol.com. This is over $11,000 to replace in parts alone, not
including labor...asking $9,500 or make me an offer??? Testing the waters...I
have RV6 flying now don't realy need 2...and should buy a house now any ways...kit
located in Central NY south of Syracuse. Posted 17 October 2001 --
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Duckett <perfeng(at)3rivers.net> |
Paul,
As I've recommended may times here. If at all possible, use the same
system from start to finish. especially on the outside of the craft.
Several reasons for this.
One. All the systems products have been formulated to work together
without any reaction.
Two. If you should have a problem and you seek Tech help or try to get
them to cover the cost of the material that was bad...They won't if any
component of the process was not their product or used in their system.
Three. The components of any quality system are expensive. Used to be
a time not to long ago that you could go from bare metal to finish for
under $500.00 in materials. We barely get a craft to primer for that
now. Bottom line...A quality finish takes a quality system, and a
quality system costs money.
IMHO, it's money well spent not having to re-do in a year or two!
Jim Duckett, N708JD
Performance Engineering
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paulbaird(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: guns on the the big ones |
Don,
Some bullet holes wouldn't be enough to de-pressurize an airliner,
unless they caused a larger hole somehow. However if it is de-pressurized,
we just put on our oxygen masks and do a rapid descent to ten thousand feet.
The Federal Air Marshals have special ammunition that won't
penetrate an aircraft's skin.
Paul
PS. Incidentally, we use odd flight levels above FL 290. So FL 320 isn't a
usable cruise altitude.
________________________________________________________________________________
Has anyone used Pratt and Lambert's latex wash primer? It's an acrylic-zinc
phosphate primer, and was recommended (by the guy selling it) as safe and
effective. I am concerned about the "safe" part, and I like the idea of a
water base.
Jim Aylward
empanage
________________________________________________________________________________
Has anyone used Pratt and Lambert's latex wash primer? It's an acrylic-zinc
phosphate primer, and was recommended (by the guy selling it) as safe and
effective. I am concerned about the "safe" part, and I like the idea of a
water base.
Jim Aylward
empanage
jimayl(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Newman" <newmanb(at)rocketmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Imron over Sherwin Williams |
No problem applying Imron linear polyurethane over SW GBP 988 self- etching spot
primer. But doing
so will not yield the best long term results on the exterior. Self etching wash
primers are designed to
promote adhesion to the base metal. They do not provide a long term corrosion
barrier, although the
reality is if applied thicker than recommended to obtain an opaque costing, they
do provide moderate
protection suitable for interior parts. But on the exterior, applying the top
coat directly over wash primer
is an invitation to filiform corrosion; again a long term consideration. Cessna
had this problem is spades
in the late 1970's when cost cutting led them to discontinue using epoxy barrier
coat primers and just use
wash primers under the top coat.
Virtually all coating manufacturers recommend applying a strontium chromate epoxy
primer barrier
coating to aluminum, the applicable Mil Spec is MIL-P-23377. Manufacturers typically
specify these
epoxy primers can be applied over a wash primer (which should be applied in a thin
transparent coat) or
directly to aluminum which has been conditioned with an acid etch and alodine conversion
coating. (In
reality, for small parts epoxy also sticks well if the aluminum is buffed bright
with a scotchbrite pad,
cleaned with lacquer thinner, and immediately coated ). All popular top coats
will adhere to MIL-P-
23377 epoxy primer.
It is best to paint the entire airplane in a contiguous painting session. This
assures a chemical bond
between the primer and the top coat. If you paint too early with wash primer,
it will fully cure and then it
will be necessary to thoroughly sand before applying epoxy barrier primer.
Using wash primer early obviously rules out the option of using the acid etch and
alodine method when
the aircraft is painted. This method is preferred by many painters. My advice
to you would be to prime
just the small exterior parts you think may corrode before you can finish the airplane.
Before everyone attacks, I am not saying top coat over self etching wash primer
will not work. It's a
matter of degree and aircraft standard practices. It is a fact that the anti-corrosive
results are not as good
as with an epoxy primer. The wash primer is a lower cost, quicker approach that
may be perfectly suitable
where long term corrosion protection is not expected.
Best Regards,
Bob
From: "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com>
Subject: RV-List: Imron over Sherwin Williams
Send reply to: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
> Does anyone have any first hand experience if Dupont Imron will be
> combatable with Sherwin Williams 988 primer? I don't want to prime any
> outside parts unless I know it will work with Imron.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Paul Besing
> RV-6A N197AB Arizona
> http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
> Flying
> Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
> http://www.kitlog.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Two Speed Elevator Trim Vs Mechanical Trim |
In a message dated 10/17/01 10:40:44 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
sbuc(at)hiwaay.net writes:
<< I have found the manual trim to work flawlessly (unlike every electric
trim system I have seen on an RV) and I can trim at whatever speed I
wish. The difference between cruise trim and final approach trim is
between 1.5 and 2.0 turns of the knob.
The trim spring does sound like an elegant solution for those who may
have some slack in the cable.
Sam Buchanan (RV-6, 320 hrs)
"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal >>
Careful, now! ;-) I like my electric trim system. I didn't go with the
speed reduction unit, but did make a longer control horn on the trim tab.
This gives me slightly less than normal trim authority, but the advantage is
reduced sensitivity. Despite the reduced trim tab throw, I've got plenty of
authority for the full range of CG and speed combinations I've experienced.
Also, I like the thumb control and the fact that I have a nice whizz-bang LED
read-out on the panel to give an indication of the trim setting.
It did require significantly more $ and installation time, but I'm very happy
now. Of course, the first time it breaks, my story is subject to change.
Kyle Boatright
0-320/Aymar Demuth RV-6 Slider
Kennesaw, GA
http://www.angelfire.com/my/rv6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Duckett <perfeng(at)3rivers.net> |
| Subject: | Paint over primer |
As Dean pointed out in his post, Painter's like to apply their own
primer. One reason and probably the biggest...Don't know if the primer
is compatible with the topcoat (refererring back to mixing systems).
Another, is that today's primers have a time window in which to apply
the topcoat. Most windows can be overcome with scuffing and or sanding
but, that also takes time (and increases the cost of the job) but, you
still don't know if the topcoat will be compatible.
The final reason is that the Finisher has no real assurance that the
metal was cleaned, converted or etched properly. Let alone, the primer
was mixed or applied to manufacutres recommendations.
It's the main reason we like to do a job from start to finish with
quality systems. When your parked on the ramp and the sun is showing
every flaw of a poor or cheap paint job, your not going to point out
that it only cost you $300.00 for materials from Home Depot for "house
paint". Or that the painter owed you a favor and shot what you had.
NO! the name of the paint shop (or painter) will be first, last, and
always in the mind (and eye) of the beholder.
Use "the good stuff" and use the same system designed for the exposure
your bird will see. You'll be glad you did in the long run!
Jim D.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Solecki <engine(at)mail.rosecom.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Imron over Sherwin Williams |
Jim Bower wrote:
>
> Dean,
>
> You wrote: "It is a pale green color with a slight gloss to it. Is this
> similar to your 988 primer?"
>
> I'm using the S-W 988 primer from a rattle can, and it's not green, nor is
> it epoxy. It's a medium gray color, and is a self-etching metal primer. I
> don't know for sure, but I don't think expoxies will etch the metal.
> Whatever they're using on your -4 isn't the same stuff.
>
The Sherwin Williams primer in the spraycan is grey. There are two colors
available in the bulk (non aerosol) containers: G980 Olive Drab and G983
neutral green.
John Solecki
Toronto
RV-7 Tail
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JNice51355(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Cylinder Coatings |
Folks
One fellow was asking about cylinder coatings and I had read about the
Cermichrome SNAFU some time ago. I reread the article, which was in the TBO
Advisor, and here is some interesting info. Cermichrome had been used for
years without any trouble. Then, it seems, all of a sudden, the incidence of
"step wear" , which had previously been nearly nonexistent, shot up to around
3%(reported by ECI.) Study showed that radial engines with cermichrome
cylinders did not have the step wear. They were using different rings(also
three per cylinder). The problems "seemed" to stem from a change in the
rings used with the cermichromed cylinders.
It seems that folks were using K14D type rings instead of the older ASM7310
rings.
ECI got into a pissing match with one of it's ring suppliers that "would not"
supply the rings with the ASM7310 spec. It seems that they felt the
cermichrome was the problem, not the rings, and they may have felt that they
would be held liable for some
kind of damages from folks suffering a dollar loss. At any rate, ECI got
another vendor to fill orders for the ASM7310 rings, which they believed
would solve their problem. They sell them as Classic Rings. Now, it's been
awhile since ECI has been placing these rings with the cermichromed
cylinders, so they should now have good information about this. The article
did not take a stand, but the information does seem to damn the K14D rings
being used with cermichromed cylinders. It also said that it may be a "best
bet" at overhaul time to replace with either nitrided or thru-hardened
cylinders at overhaul and not mess around with any chrome-type coatings at
all if possible. It also reminded folks that the proportion of cylinders
that were showing the abnormal wear(step-wear between 200-800 hours) was only
documented as 3% of the cylinders.
Hope This Helps
Jim Nice
WA State
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wiring Diagram |
Thanks for the input Mike! I also am using the small case Nippon Dienso unit
but furnished by Mr. Landoll in Oklahoma to fit the RV6 cowl.
I have to admit a 45 AMP would probably have done the job unless most
items were on at night with freezing rain. But I would not be flying in that
case.
Tom
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Wiring Diagram
>
> I Installed a full IFR in my -8A, to include a heated Pitot-Static tube.
I
> used vacumm gyros to help reduce the load and ended up being able to use a
> 45 amp alternator. Unsure about the -6 but the cowling on the -8A would
> have had to be modified to fit around the pulley. I installed the Visions
> VM-1000 engine monitoring system, a Garmin 430 GPS/NAV/COM, and Apollo
SL40
> com and a King KT76 transponder. The only thing I tried to be cautious
> about was making sure I did not turn on both landing and taxi lights if I
> had the Heated Pitot tube on. The alternator would handle it but I just
> figured I didn't want to push it. By the way, FWIW, I used a Nippon
Dienso
> small case alternator.
>
> Mike Robertson
> RV-8A
>
>
> >From: "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net>
> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >To:
> >Subject: RV-List: Wiring Diagram
> >Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 20:28:01 -0400
> >
> >
> >List: I have decided to go the circuit breaker route on my RV6-A wiring
> >system.
> > The aircraft will be running a 60 AMP Alternator and set up for
> >IFR including heated pitot. Does anyone on the list have a like equipped
> >RV? How about a web site with helpful hints covering this type of Wiring
> >Project?
> >
> >"Panel City"
> > Tom
> >in Ohio
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
""
| Subject: | Lasar combination thermocouple |
A while back, several listers noted that they were having trouble getting
the thermocouple side of the dual CHT probe which comes from Unison to work
properly. This dual CHT device contains also a thermistor which tells the
controller when the engine is too hot for additional spark advance, on those
so equipped. Anyway, this thermocouple is only supplied in an ungrounded
type. Many engine monitors are set up to look at grounded thermocouples,
and I set up my RMI monitor to do the same. The fix in my case was to
connect a 100 ohm resistor from one of the offending thermocouple leads to
ground, suggested by Ron M., the RMI designer. The observation of this
trouble was when I switched to that cylinder, it read fine for about one
minute and then went to 00 reading.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
6A N66AP released from Class B prison
5 glorious hours yesterday!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Norman, MD" <jnorman(at)intermapsystems.com> |
Regarding an Engine Monitor, I would suggest you all take a look at the I-K
2000.
http://www.i-ktechnologies.com/products.htm
I am installing one in my panel, and it does everything you could want. It
does more than any of the monitors discussed on this thread over the past 2
days, more than the RMI, JPI, or VM1000... And its cheaper than 2 of these
three, and to me its a much better system.
They have several options on which parameters you want to show in the screen
(I'm having manifold press shown in the big screen in addition to those
shown in the photo).
If you have any questions, I'd suggest calling Ralph (the company founder
and chief electronic guru). He is very knowledgeable and very helpful.
Jim
Tampa.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Angle of Attack Indicator |
Just received the wing components for the AOA Sport indicator.
The manual looks pretty straight forward but I was just wondering if anybody
who has installed already has discovered any "gotchas".
I'm building an RV7A QB
Thanks in advance
John McDonnell (Ready to close the right wing)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Garth Shearing" <garth(at)Islandnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Lasar combination thermocouple |
I hesitate to criticize an engine monitor designer (maybe I'm not reading it
correctly) but I designed one of these things for my own use twenty years
ago and the thermocouple inputs had to be left essentially ungrounded on
both sides. The instrumentation amplifier I used in the monitor was of the
"pure" or balanced type which is powered by both positive and negative power
supplies generated in the monitor itself. The input of the instrumentation
amplifier is kept at approximate ground by placing a high value resistor (1
Megohm in my case) between each side of the thermocouple input and ground at
the amplifier input. Using this system provides for satisfactory operation
if an inadvertant ground appears somewhere in the thermocouple circuit.
This often happens inside the probe itself.
The above precautions are necessary because ground currents in and around
the engine and between the engine and the instrument panel can easily
disrupt the thermocouple signals which are in the millivolt range. It only
takes a 22 or 28 microvolt change from the thermocouple to see a one degree
fahrenheit centigrade change on the instrument.
This is all pretty standard stuff.
Because the signals are so low, when using a physical switching system to
select more than one thermocouple being connected to a single instrument
input, it is preferable to use a high quality two-pole wafer type because it
is self-cleaning and low resistance. Both poles are necessary to keep each
side of each thermocouple independent. Do not connect one side of multiple
thermocouples together.
Garth Shearing
VariEze and RV6A
----- Original Message -----
From: Alex Peterson <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net>
Subject: RV-List: Lasar combination thermocouple
>
> A while back, several listers noted that they were having trouble getting
> the thermocouple side of the dual CHT probe which comes from Unison to
work
> properly. This dual CHT device contains also a thermistor which tells the
> controller when the engine is too hot for additional spark advance, on
those
> so equipped. Anyway, this thermocouple is only supplied in an ungrounded
> type. Many engine monitors are set up to look at grounded thermocouples,
> and I set up my RMI monitor to do the same. The fix in my case was to
> connect a 100 ohm resistor from one of the offending thermocouple leads to
> ground, suggested by Ron M., the RMI designer. The observation of this
> trouble was when I switched to that cylinder, it read fine for about one
> minute and then went to 00 reading.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rob Prior <rv7(at)b4.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Monitor |
One question, that perhaps you could answer, since it sounds like you've already
paid it... How Much?
-RB4
-rv7 "at" b4.ca
"Jim Norman, MD" wrote:
> Regarding an Engine Monitor, I would suggest you all take a look at the I-K
> 2000.
> http://www.i-ktechnologies.com/products.htm
[text deleted]
> If you have any questions, I'd suggest calling Ralph (the company founder
> and chief electronic guru). He is very knowledgeable and very helpful.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WoodardRod(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Cabin pressure 101 was: guns on the the big ones |
In a message dated 10/17/01 6:05:13 PM Mountain Daylight Time,
dougr(at)petroblend.com writes:
> . ( I have flew an old,
> tired, airplane that leaked so much you could not climb above 18000 feet.
> The cabin door sounded like a train whistle.)
>
I'm pretty sure I flew that same airplane last year for Mesa Airlines. Was it
a Beech 1900D... N3YV, to be specific. :-)
Rod Woodard
lurking in Colorado
RV-3 Empennage underway
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jsu24osu(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List: seat belts |
D.
Nutplates and screws are the only choice. Just consider annual time and the
possibility you might want to LOOK inside the wing. Just think about your
other options for a while and I'm sure you will agree on the screws and
nutplates.
Joe U
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robin Wessel" <robin.wessel(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Angle of Attack Indicator |
John-
There are no gotchas that I am aware other than an upset stomach doing
repeated zero-g maneuvers calibrating the system. The AoA system works great
as advertised. Add a passenger and some baggage and will see the AoA margin
diminish- I consider it a great safety item.
The only tip I have is to ease install you can cut the static lines and
splice them with small dia copper tubing available at any hobby shop (K&S
brand I believe).
Robin Wessel
RV-6A 50 hrs
Tigard, OR
http://robin.getbiz.net
----- Original Message -----
From: <JTAnon(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: Angle of Attack Indicator
>
> Just received the wing components for the AOA Sport indicator.
>
> The manual looks pretty straight forward but I was just wondering if
anybody
> who has installed already has discovered any "gotchas".
>
> I'm building an RV7A QB
>
> Thanks in advance
>
> John McDonnell (Ready to close the right wing)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: transponder ground plane |
dear listers,
i was asked a question last night , i could not answer. does a transponder
ant, need a ground plane?
scott
tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stucklen, Frederic IFC" <stuckle(at)ifc.utc.com> |
| Subject: | Two Speed Elevator Trim Vs Mechanical Trim |
Doug & Ed,
It was in retraction, causing the trim tab to be pulled towards the
elevator.....
From Ed's comments, the non-tensioned trim systems don't seem to have any
problems within the normal real of flight....
Fred Stucklen
N925RV (1750 hrs/8 Yrs)
E. Windsor, CT 06088
WK Email: stuckle(at)ifc.utc.com
Hm/Travel Email: wstucklen1(at)juno.com
____
From: Doug Gray <douggray(at)ihug.com.au>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Two Speed Elevator Trim Vs Mechanical Trim
> I did see a very nice installation on a
> plane on Long Island (FOK) that used a spring between the elevator
trim horn
> and the trim tab, that kept constant tension on the trim cable,
thereby
> eliminating any free play. Nice setup, with the trim cable going
through the
> center of the spring.....
>
> Fred Stucklen
Thanks Fred, another great idea from the RV-List...
I assume the spring was in compression, ie streaching the trim
cable?
Doug Gray
I'm not Sam, but as a very satisfied manual-trim user I thought I'd
chime
in. I don't have to reverse trim at all. The entire trim range is
only
about 2 turns, and in cruise flight there is only about a 45-60
degree
spread.
That said, there is a very slight amount of free play at the tab
while on
the ground, but in flight the air load keeps it at one end of the
range or
the other so there is no "flopping" of the tab. In cruise,
down-elevator
trim is necessary and in slow flight or pattern speed the trim is
for
up-elevator, so there is a place where the tab goes from one end of
the
range to the other, but it isn't noticeable (to me anyway). When I
slow
from cruise and after I drop some flap it takes about 1.5 turns of
the knob
and it transitions the "flop zone", but with that much quick change
any free
play is unnoticeable. I've even played with it slowly to find that
transition zone, and if you do it slowly you can just barely
perceive where
it takes place, but in practice it doesn't exist.
YMMV,
Ed Bundy - RV6A N427EM 400+ hours
160hp 0320 w/Sensenich 70x78
Eagle, ID
ebundy(at)velocitus.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dick Isherwood" <n797rv(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: transponder ground plane |
Scott,
Yes, the fuse serves as the ground plane for the xponder, nave and comm
antennae.
Dick
RV7 N797RV (reserved)
Emp. finished
>From: ABAYMAN(at)aol.com
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: transponder ground plane
>Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2001 07:59:45 EDT
>
>
>dear listers,
>i was asked a question last night , i could not answer. does a transponder
>ant, need a ground plane?
>scott
>tampa
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: transponder ground plane |
the reason i asked, is i'm installing the transponder and marker beacon ants
in the cowl, how much area do i need for a ground plane?
scott
tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John & Teresa Huft" <widgeon92L(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | transponder ground plane |
Just yesterday, a hangar neighbor told me he got a very big performance gain
by adding a small (6" x 6") ground plane to the transponder antenna in his
Bellanca Viking (wooden airplane).
Of course, it would not be necessary in a metal airplane.
jh
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of ABAYMAN(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: transponder ground plane
dear listers,
i was asked a question last night , i could not answer. does a transponder
ant, need a ground plane?
scott
tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carlfro(at)erols.com> |
| Subject: | Re: transponder ground plane |
Assuming you use a piece of angle to mount the transponder antenna, nothing
else is required. The "in the cowl" transponder antennas I have seen simple
mount to a piece of angle attached low to the firewall. For the MB antenna
you may not need a ground plane at all depending on how it is constructed.
If you use a loop antenna like those streamline fiberglass belly commercial
antennas, you can mount it anyway you want. If you are using a 1/4
wavelength piece of wire, you could use a BNC connector on the firewall, the
antenna connecting to the BNC and running along one side of the fiberglass,
bent around the from of the lower cowl. The firewall will act as the ground
plane. For marker beacons you don't need much of an antenna as the signal
strength is quite high over the transmitter.
1/4 wavelength equates to about 37.4 inches at MB frequency (75 MHZ). As
you will have some capacitive loading on the antenna by mounting it in the
cowl, 36 inches may be a better estimate. The only criteria for selecting
the type of wire to make the antenna is mechanical. The antenna wire can be
glassed in the side of the cowl. As you will need to disconnect the antenna
to remove the lower cowl (using a BNC connector, banana plug, or whatever)
on the firewall, something along the lines of 18 gauge should work.
Carl Froehlich
RV-8A (getting close)
Vienna, VA
----- Original Message -----
From: <ABAYMAN(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: transponder ground plane
>
> the reason i asked, is i'm installing the transponder and marker beacon
ants
> in the cowl, how much area do i need for a ground plane?
> scott
> tampa
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Norman, MD" <jnorman(at)intermapsystems.com> |
Pricing for the IK200 is on this page
http://www.i-ktechnologies.com/pricing.htm
He is now including some of the sensors, so it is a little cheaper. With
every sensor and wires, I'll have about $2,450 into this unit.
Jim
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Rob Prior
Subject: Re: RV-List: Engine Monitor
One question, that perhaps you could answer, since it sounds like you've
already
paid it... How Much?
-RB4
-rv7 "at" b4.ca
"Jim Norman, MD" wrote:
> Regarding an Engine Monitor, I would suggest you all take a look at the
I-K
> 2000.
> http://www.i-ktechnologies.com/products.htm
[text deleted]
> If you have any questions, I'd suggest calling Ralph (the company founder
> and chief electronic guru). He is very knowledgeable and very helpful.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-List:engine start'n party |
dear listers
just wanted to invite you to my engine starting party this sat at 2 o'clock.
free beer and hot dogs and soda. i have my panel in and it works!. i need to
prime my oil ports on the engine , time the mags and fire her up. even it it
doesn't fire up at least we will have some beers.
hope you can make it.
scott
tampa
O360 A1A C/S HARTZELL N747ES reserved
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: transponder ground plane |
If the mounting spot is fiberglass then you need to provide a circle of
metal with a radius the same as the length of the antenna. It could even be
a piece of metal screen if you can make electrical contact, I've been told.
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
http://www.eaa.org for latest flying rules
----- Original Message -----
From: <ABAYMAN(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: transponder ground plane
the reason i asked, is i'm installing the transponder and marker beacon ants
in the cowl, how much area do i need for a ground plane?
scott
tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dag adamson <dag_adamson(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Suitability of Home Depot's resporators? |
Hello-
(1)
A friend gave me a 3M resporator mask for painting -
unfortunately, it appears it doesn't have replaceable
cartridges. I have been using it a while and was
wondering how often I should replace the cartridges?
(2)
Does anyone know if Home Depot or suimilar retailer
would have an appropriate mask for painting? HD has a
bunch, but I am not sure that they are appropriate...
(3)
It seems like there are a bunch of different gov't
standards on masks - recommendations on what rating?
I am just using rattle cans - but I am using Zinc
chromate and want to continue to play it safe.
Thanks
Dag
====
*****************
Dag Adamson
617 513 1182
Natick, MA
*****************
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bryan Jones" <rv_8pilot(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Suitability of Home Depot's resporators? |
>(1)
>A friend gave me a 3M resporator mask for painting -
>unfortunately, it appears it doesn't have replaceable
>cartridges. I have been using it a while and was
>wondering how often I should replace the cartridges?
For painting, replace the cartridges whenever you get breakthrough (smell
the paint/solvent) or sense increased resistance (pluggage)
>(2)
>Does anyone know if Home Depot or suimilar retailer
>would have an appropriate mask for painting? HD has a
>bunch, but I am not sure that they are appropriate...
don't know exactly what HD has, but check the filter elements to see if
suitable for organic vapors and mists.
>(3)
>It seems like there are a bunch of different gov't
>standards on masks - recommendations on what rating?
Look for a NIOSH endorsement on the cartridges.
Also, check the fit of your mask by taking off the cartridges and breathing
in with your palms lightly pressed over the cartridge openings. You should
get no leakage. Do the same thing uping positive pressure while holding
your hand over the mask exhaust valve. No leakage is acceptable for a good
fit.
Bryan Jones -8
Pearland, Texas
>
>I am just using rattle cans - but I am using Zinc
>chromate and want to continue to play it safe.
>
>Thanks
>Dag
>
>====
>*****************
>Dag Adamson
>617 513 1182
>Natick, MA
>*****************
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <enewton57(at)cableone.net> |
| Subject: | Major Problem mounting Wheel Pants |
Hi Everyone,
I have a major problem getting my Wheel Pants and Gear Leg Fairings mounted on
my recently flying RV-6A. You see, the problem I'm having is every time I got
to the airport to work on the plane, I end up just getting in it and flying until
the sun goes down. I can't seem to get a thing done.
The other problem relates to work. I keep taking the wrong exit from the interstate
on my way to work and end up at the airport. Since, I "accidentally" got
there, I go ahead and fly for a while so I end up late for work. Is there some
sort of self help program ("Hi, my name is Eric, and I'm a flyaholic with
my RV")? I'm hooked and its a blast!!! :>)
I have been having so much fun flying that I haven't really crunched any numbers
at all. Every takeoff and climb has been at 120 mph which yields 1,000 feet
per minute. Full throttle for a few minutes level at 2,000 feet altitude turned
the Ed Sterba wood prop 2600 RPM and gave me an Indicated Airspeed of 170
mph without fairings or wheel pants and no paint. As for squawks, only two.
A slight heavy left wing and I need to adjust the vacuum regulator because I'm
only getting about 4" at 2,000 RPM.
I will get and post some more accurate airspeed runs and climb testing when I get
the wheel pants and gear leg fairings mounted. I kind of plan on doing that
this weekend. Lets see here - forecast is for severe clear blue skies and calm
winds for this weekend. Hmmm - Maybe I'll get those mounted some other time
Huh? ;>)
Regards,
Eric Newton - Long Beach, MS
RV-6A (O-320 H2AD w/ Ed Sterba Prop)
www.ericsrv6a.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Cabin pressure 101 |
| From: | Don Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com> |
Thanks for the the cource. I think it needs to be stored in history.
Don Jordan - N6DJ - 6A
Arlington, Tx
******************************
writes:
>
>>
> those not interested in how cabin pressurization works hit delete
> now.
>
> Sorry to disappoint all you movie goers, but I sense a general lack
> of understanding about how cabins are pressurized. A bullet hole will
> not cause an explosive decompression of an airplane.
>
> Pressurized airplanes generally work like this. You have an
> aluminum tube, with a front pressure bulkhead infront of the pilots
feet and a
> rear pressure bulkhead at the back of the cabin. Imagine all the wire
> bundles, control cables, plumbing, seams, doors, windows, and emergency
> hatches. Each and everyone of these leaks just a little bit. ( I have
flew
> an old, tired, airplane that leaked so much you could not climb above
18000
> feet. The cabin door sounded like a train whistle.)
>
> To pressurize an airplane you take air from the turbocharger,(recip)
> or the compressor section(turbine). This is called "bleed air" because
it
> is bled off the compressor (or turbo) for some purpose.(run gyros,
deice
> engines inlets, windshield heat, or cabin pressure) It might seem
like it
> would be easy to just regulate the amount of bleed air going to the
cabin,
> but that is not how it is done. Instead, a volume of air goes to the
cabin
> and the cabin pressure is controlled by an "outflow valve." The
outflow
> valve is typically in the rear pressure bulkhead and usually
pnuematically
> controlled. It regulates the amount or air escaping to maintain the
> desired cabin altitude.
>
> The amount of airflow through the cabin varies by design, altitude,
> power setting, and many other factors. A properly maintained airplane
> will still be "outflowing" air at maximum cabin differential pressure.
A 1/2
> inch bullet hole would be nothing more than an annoying whistle. A
full
> clip of 1/2 inch holes would not even make a perceptible difference.
> Supposedly some airliners can maintain cabin pressure with a blownout
window.
>
> This makes cabin pressure seem rather benign. Not so, a door that
> is 3 ft wide and 6 feet high is 2592 square inches and at a cabin
pressure
> of 5 psi, that yields 12960 pounds of force on the door. Similarly, a
1/2
> diameter hole would have around 1 pound. So despite what you see in
the
> movies, a bullet hole is not going cause explosive decompression in an
> airliner.
>
> Tailwinds,
> Doug Rozendaal
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ed Holyoke <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Suitability of Home Depot's respirators? |
Also, bear in mind that most of these respirators aren't any good for
paints containing isocyonates such as polyurethane paints which are
extremely hazardous to your health. Some of these chemicals can be
absorbed though your eyes also, so a full face mask with positive air
pressure would be the safest. With paints of lesser health threat,
respirators should be ok, but if you can smell it - the respirator is
not working well enough.
Ed Holyoke
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bryan Jones
Subject: Re: RV-List: Suitability of Home Depot's resporators?
>(1)
>A friend gave me a 3M resporator mask for painting -
>unfortunately, it appears it doesn't have replaceable
>cartridges. I have been using it a while and was
>wondering how often I should replace the cartridges?
For painting, replace the cartridges whenever you get breakthrough
(smell
the paint/solvent) or sense increased resistance (pluggage)
>(2)
>Does anyone know if Home Depot or suimilar retailer
>would have an appropriate mask for painting? HD has a
>bunch, but I am not sure that they are appropriate...
don't know exactly what HD has, but check the filter elements to see if
suitable for organic vapors and mists.
>(3)
>It seems like there are a bunch of different gov't
>standards on masks - recommendations on what rating?
Look for a NIOSH endorsement on the cartridges.
Also, check the fit of your mask by taking off the cartridges and
breathing
in with your palms lightly pressed over the cartridge openings. You
should
get no leakage. Do the same thing uping positive pressure while holding
your hand over the mask exhaust valve. No leakage is acceptable for a
good
fit.
Bryan Jones -8
Pearland, Texas
>
>I am just using rattle cans - but I am using Zinc
>chromate and want to continue to play it safe.
>
>Thanks
>Dag
>
>====
>*****************
>Dag Adamson
>617 513 1182
>Natick, MA
>*****************
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rob Prior <rv7(at)b4.ca> |
Has anyone implimented a full HOTAS (Hands On Throttle And Stick) system
in their RV? If so, can you tell me what stick and throttle grips
you're using, and where you acquired them? So far i've seen grips from
Infinity Aerospace (http://www.infinityaerospace.com/)
Automatic Flagman (no website)
MAC (http://www.menzimeraircraft.com/)
My current favorite is the Infinity stick, but i'd be interested to know
if there are other options.
--
---------
Rob Prior
rv7 "at" b4.ca
-----------------------------
Stop dreaming... Start flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gene Polenske" <RV8TOR(at)centurytel.net> |
I am a little behind with my email. I suggest that you look for a
Nondestructive testing company (NDT) in your area. Demagnetization with
A.C. is the most common method. Demagnetization accomplished by passing the
part though a coil with alternating current at 60c.p.s., the current is
gradually reduced to zero. This is a simplistic explanation, many other
tricks to it but you get the idea.
Any good company that has Magnaflux equipment should have a demag. machine.
I have demagnetized everything from Indy car parts to 8' dia. ship gears.
Another place to check is any LARGE machine shop, they may have the
equipment or can tell you where they send there work.
Gene Polenske
Gig Harbor, WA
RV-8 Wings and learning to fly |8
)
----- Original Message -----
From: <czechsix(at)juno.com>
Subject: RV-List: degaussing
>
> How do I degauss the rollbar for my RV-8A? I'm about ready to attach it
> to the fuselage....wondering if it would be easier to get it degaussed
> before it's attached? Who would have the necessary tools/equipment to do
> such a thing? If it's not too expensive and helps my compass to read
> more accurately, I figure it's worth it....
>
> Thanks,
>
> --Mark Navratil
> Cedar Rapids, Iowa
> RV-8A fuselage
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | philip condon <pcondon(at)mitre.org> |
| Subject: | Insurance Question - Why can't I shop for price ??? |
.................."However, if a company has already quoted your
insurance, the quote will remain the same when transferred to the new
broker. This is typically done at or near the renewal date of your
insurance................"
Can anyone enlighten me as to why this business practice is against the
law in all other free market business areas EXCEPT in the insurance
industry ?? Collusion, price fixing, conspiracy or anti-trust business
practices come to mind if I can't get multiple quotes from different
insurance agents and select which agent (based on, among other data,
price...) I want. Today, once the first insurance agents quotes me, I am
locked in to him and no other agent will return my calls or return a
price quote. I am free to shop for any other item and make a decisions
based on cost, but the insurance industry has locked this option out for
us.......Comments anyone? This is related to RV's because some of us
want to insure them.....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Major Problem mounting Wheel Pants |
Eric, Eric, Eric.............(sigh)..............
You DO indeed have a serious problem.
Here is what you should do; fly your plane up to DCU (and bring the
wheel pants and fairings), leave the plane and pants with the RV gang at
Pryor Regional, and we will install the wheel pants and fairings for
you. We will of course need to test fly the installation, so after we
have satisfied ourselves that the plane is safe (oh.......about 400
hours oughta do it......) we will return the plane to you.
This will not only assure you of a proper wheel pant installation, but
will give you time to recalibrate your internal navigation system so you
can consistently get to work on time.
I think this is the least we can do for one of our struggling brothers.
Looking forward to hearing when you will be bringing your plane,
Sam Buchanan (RV-6, but always time to fly another one)
========================
enewton57(at)cableone.net wrote:
>
>
> Hi Everyone,
> I have a major problem getting my Wheel Pants and Gear Leg Fairings mounted on
my recently flying RV-6A. You see, the problem I'm having is every time I got
to the airport to work on the plane, I end up just getting in it and flying
until the sun goes down. I can't seem to get a thing done.
>
> The other problem relates to work. I keep taking the wrong exit from the interstate
on my way to work and end up at the airport. Since, I "accidentally"
got there, I go ahead and fly for a while so I end up late for work. Is there
some sort of self help program ("Hi, my name is Eric, and I'm a flyaholic with
my RV")? I'm hooked and its a blast!!! :>)
>
> I have been having so much fun flying that I haven't really crunched any numbers
at all. Every takeoff and climb has been at 120 mph which yields 1,000 feet
per minute. Full throttle for a few minutes level at 2,000 feet altitude turned
the Ed Sterba wood prop 2600 RPM and gave me an Indicated Airspeed of 170
mph without fairings or wheel pants and no paint. As for squawks, only two.
A slight heavy left wing and I need to adjust the vacuum regulator because
I'm only getting about 4" at 2,000 RPM.
>
> I will get and post some more accurate airspeed runs and climb testing when I
get the wheel pants and gear leg fairings mounted. I kind of plan on doing that
this weekend. Lets see here - forecast is for severe clear blue skies and
calm winds for this weekend. Hmmm - Maybe I'll get those mounted some other
time Huh? ;>)
>
> Regards,
>
> Eric Newton - Long Beach, MS
> RV-6A (O-320 H2AD w/ Ed Sterba Prop)
> www.ericsrv6a.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: HOTAS in an RV? |
That link has some minimal info about the Automatic Flagman grips and a
"Homebuilders Pistol Grip":
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/pistolgripswitches.php
Let me know what you guys turn up on these grips. The Infinity one sure
looks like the way to go, especially for the price ($150 I think). If
anybody has had any experience with these, please let me know, too.
I'm specifically curious about mounting the flap switch on there...I'm
wondering about the ergonomics of the vertical toggle.
)_( Dan
dan(at)rvproject.com
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rob Prior" <rv7(at)b4.ca>
Subject: RV-List: HOTAS in an RV?
>
> Has anyone implimented a full HOTAS (Hands On Throttle And Stick) system
> in their RV? If so, can you tell me what stick and throttle grips
> you're using, and where you acquired them? So far i've seen grips from
>
> Infinity Aerospace (http://www.infinityaerospace.com/)
> Automatic Flagman (no website)
> MAC (http://www.menzimeraircraft.com/)
>
> My current favorite is the Infinity stick, but i'd be interested to know
> if there are other options.
>
> --
> ---------
> Rob Prior
> rv7 "at" b4.ca
> -----------------------------
> Stop dreaming... Start flying
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Norman" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: HOTAS in an RV? |
> Has anyone implimented a full HOTAS (Hands On Throttle And Stick) system
> in their RV? If so, can you tell me what stick and throttle grips
> you're using, and where you acquired them? So far i've seen grips from
>
> Infinity Aerospace (http://www.infinityaerospace.com/)
> Automatic Flagman (no website)
> MAC (http://www.menzimeraircraft.com/)
>
> My current favorite is the Infinity stick, but i'd be interested to know
> if there are other options.
Jim at Infinity has been promising a fancy throttle quadrant with all kinds
of switches for two years now. See his website for a sketch and details. It
will be in it's own league if he ever gets it to production. I have dual
Infinity stick grips and love them. Their price doesn't directly compare to
other brands as Jim has all the switches wired with three foot tails of high
quality wire included in the price.
Norman Hunger
RV6A Delta BC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bryan Jones" <rv_8pilot(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: HOTAS in an RV? |
Dan -
You talking about the Infinity grip? I have the Infinity stick grip with a
vertical toggle on top for flaps and I'm happy with it. Just be careful
getting in and out of the plane. I've broken the switch once kicking it.
You might want to make a cover for the grip to prevent this. Overall, it's
a good product.
Bryan Jones -8
Pearland, Texas
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: GNS 430 Questions |
Norman,
The GNS430 can accomodate a single indicator that is switched (automatically or
through the CDI button on the front panel) between the GPS and VOR/LOC. Additionally,
you can put a dedicated indicator just for the VOR/LOC function if you
wish.
I'd recommend you download the 430 Installation manual off the Garmin web site.
All of this is detailed in there. Several indicators, HSIs, etc. can be used
with the unit.
Regards,
-Don
RV8 NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Newman" <newmanb(at)rocketmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Suitability of Home Depot's resporators? |
The Home Depot 3M respirator I am familiar with comes with a cartridge rated at
95% of Organic vapors
and mist. Much better than nothing, but with Chromates you really want a P100
(100%) NIOSH
approved organic vapor/mist cartridge. I don't think 3M makes one of those for
the Home Depot style
mask. You can buy a quality P100 respirator from Mcmaster.com for a fairly reasonable
price. The half
mask style is OK if all you plan to use is spray cans. - Bob
From: dag adamson <dag_adamson(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: RV-List: Suitability of Home Depot's resporators?
Send reply to: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
> Hello-
>
> (1)
> A friend gave me a 3M resporator mask for painting -
> unfortunately, it appears it doesn't have replaceable
> cartridges. I have been using it a while and was
> wondering how often I should replace the cartridges?
>
> (2)
> Does anyone know if Home Depot or suimilar retailer
> would have an appropriate mask for painting? HD has a
> bunch, but I am not sure that they are appropriate...
>
> (3)
> It seems like there are a bunch of different gov't
> standards on masks - recommendations on what rating?
>
> I am just using rattle cans - but I am using Zinc
> chromate and want to continue to play it safe.
>
> Thanks
> Dag
>
> ====
> *****************
> Dag Adamson
> 617 513 1182
> Natick, MA
> *****************
>
>
>
>
>
>
Bob
newmanb(at)rocketmail.com
newmanb(at)rocketmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John B. Abell" <jbabell(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: HOTAS in an RV? |
I installed Infinity grips on both sticks. Each contains a coolie hat that
works in four directions, PTT, flap, landing lights, autopilot disconnect,
and video camera switch. Except for frequency changes and navigational
chores, I never need to take my hands off the stick and throttle during
approaches, landings, or departures. Try it; you'll like it.
Best wishes,
Jack Abell
Rob Prior wrote:
>
> Has anyone implimented a full HOTAS (Hands On Throttle And Stick) system
> in their RV? If so, can you tell me what stick and throttle grips
> you're using, and where you acquired them? So far i've seen grips from
>
> Infinity Aerospace (http://www.infinityaerospace.com/)
> Automatic Flagman (no website)
> MAC (http://www.menzimeraircraft.com/)
>
> My current favorite is the Infinity stick, but i'd be interested to know
> if there are other options.
>
> --
> ---------
> Rob Prior
> rv7 "at" b4.ca
> -----------------------------
> Stop dreaming... Start flying
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: HOTAS in an RV? |
| From: | pichon.dean(at)ADLittle.com |
10/18/2001 05:31:38 PM
I have an Infinity stick grip in my -4 and love it. I have 2 axis electric
trim, electric flaps, push-to-talk, radio frequency flip-flop, transponder
ident, and start. I use all the buttons frequently except for flip-flop
and ident. I don't yet use them enough to make their use "second nature".
The others though, are great. Push-to-talk is obvious, and the trim is
very handy. It's great to be able to raise or lower the flaps without
having to let go of the stick. The standard flap switch is a 3-position
unit that can be toggled between up, off, and (momentary) down. This
allows me to flip the switch up and forget it while the flaps retract. I
have to remember, however, to return the switch to the middle (off)
position or the flap motor will continue to spin. To lower the flaps, I
must hold the momentary switch down until I have deployed the desired
amount of flap.
I have installed a limit switch but have not wired it to the flap motor
relay. If and when this is wired, the flap motor will shut-off when the
flaps are fully retracted. I have not decided whether I will use this
feature, or simply install an idiot light on the panel that reminds me the
flap motor is spinning.
The (momentary) start button on the stick grip allows me to start the
engine with my left hand on the throttle quadrant and the other hand
holding the stick full aft. I love this set-up, but have had 2 A&P's both
tell me it is a poor system because it is too easy to inadvertently hit the
switch while entering or exiting the cockpit. It should be noted that both
A&P's were "a little chubby" for an aircraft as svelte as a -4. It is
necessary, of course, that the master switch be ON in order for the start
switch to turn the prop.
The guy at Infinity has been talking about a custom throttle quadrant with
a variety of switches for at least 3 years. He is always a little short of
money to complete the design/drawings/tooling... If it every makes it to
market, I'm sure it would be a nice upgrade.
Good luck,
Dean Pichon
Arlington, MA
RV-4, 32 hours
In the paint shop
|--------+---------------------------------->
| | Rob Prior |
| | Sent by: |
| | owner-rv-list-server@mat|
| | ronics.com |
| | |
| | |
| | 10/18/01 02:26 PM |
| | Please respond to |
| | rv-list |
| | |
|--------+---------------------------------->
|
|
| To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
|
| cc:
|
| bcc:
|
| Subject: RV-List: HOTAS in an RV?
|
Has anyone implimented a full HOTAS (Hands On Throttle And Stick) system
in their RV? If so, can you tell me what stick and throttle grips
you're using, and where you acquired them? So far i've seen grips from
Infinity Aerospace (http://www.infinityaerospace.com/)
Automatic Flagman (no website)
MAC (http://www.menzimeraircraft.com/)
My current favorite is the Infinity stick, but i'd be interested to know
if there are other options.
--
---------
Rob Prior
rv7 "at" b4.ca
-----------------------------
Stop dreaming... Start flying
**** This is intended for the addressee only and may contain
confidential business information. It may not be copied
without our permission. If you are not the intended recipient,
please contact the sender as soon as possible and
delete the material from any computer.****
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | CharlesRV6(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Forward Top Fusalage(F-671) on a RV6 |
Has any one out there put F-671 on with plate nuts and screws? If so what
size screws did you use? It would seem to me this would make accessability to
the firewall much easier. What do you think?
C.Henwood
Tampa, FL
________________________________________________________________________________
Robert,
GRT also has an option (~$3-400) for pitot/static flight data. I used it on
my -6 for everything. My primary display screen showed airspeed, altitude,
rpm, MP, oil temp, oil pressure. I was very comfortable with it in what
little time I had.
Regards,
Greg Young
RV-6 N6GY Houston (DWH) RIP
Searching for Navion
>
> Jim
> are you going to use this instrument for your primary source
> for some this
> info, i.e. airspeed, altitude, rpm? I've been looking at the
> Grand Rapids
> EIS with the intention of using for primary rpm and MP, but
> this unit you're
> talking about looks like it could go further.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rob Prior <rv7(at)b4.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: HOTAS in an RV? |
This is what I *love* about this list. Great feedback from people who have been
there before! I think if I was
buying today the Infinity is probably the way i'd go. As it stands, though, i'm
just starting my empennage kit so
have a while before I have to decide... 8-)
Regarding the starting issue (inadvertent activation), how about this... Require
that the pilot depress one switch
on the Infinity Throttle Quadrant (hint, hint, if Infinity is watching...) *and*
one button on the Stick before the
starter would engage? This would ensure that you indeed had both hands on the
controls, and make inadvertent
activation much less likely...
-RB4
pichon.dean(at)ADLittle.com wrote:
>
> The (momentary) start button on the stick grip allows me to start the
> engine with my left hand on the throttle quadrant and the other hand
> holding the stick full aft. I love this set-up, but have had 2 A&P's both
> tell me it is a poor system because it is too easy to inadvertently hit the
> switch while entering or exiting the cockpit. It should be noted that both
> A&P's were "a little chubby" for an aircraft as svelte as a -4. It is
> necessary, of course, that the master switch be ON in order for the start
> switch to turn the prop.
>
> The guy at Infinity has been talking about a custom throttle quadrant with
> a variety of switches for at least 3 years. He is always a little short of
> money to complete the design/drawings/tooling... If it every makes it to
> market, I'm sure it would be a nice upgrade.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | joe wiza <jwiza1(at)yahoo.com> |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | joe wiza <jwiza1(at)yahoo.com> |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Lasar combination thermocouple |
> I hesitate to criticize an engine monitor designer (maybe I'm not reading
it
> correctly) but I designed one of these things for my own use twenty years
> ago and the thermocouple inputs had to be left essentially ungrounded on
> both sides.
The RMI unit can be built either way - I chose the grounded configuration
because the typical TC's used on CHT's are grounded.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
6A N66AP flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: GNS 430 Questions |
> If I only want one CDI can it be switched between the IFR GPS and the
> ILS/LOR?
To clarify a previous post, the 430 does not need an external switcher for
GPS/VOR, it is internal. An external annunciator is not needed either.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
6A N66AP flying 14.5 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John" <fasching(at)amigo.net> |
I recently filled my brake fluid reservoir and after flying in fairly
turbulent conditions today I noticed what seems to be red brake fluid
drips/runs on the bottom of the fuselage on the left side below the
reservoir location. I can't see any on the firewall (the reservoir is
located high on the engine side of the firewall) but it starts showing up at
the hinge line of the cowling/fuselage junction.
I wonder: Can/will turbulent conditions cause a brake fluid reservoir to
spill or burp out fluid? The top of the reservoir is - as you probably
know - just a mesh fitting that allows the thing to "breathe" but I suspect
it also allows it to spill fluid if too full. Also I braked rather sharply
today after landing; can that cause an overflow? I wouldn't think so but
empty minds need to know !!
Has anyone else experienced this?
John at Salida, CO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "ciminojim" <ciminojim(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List:engine start'n party |
Scott,
Sorry, Tampa is outside of my 25 mile allowable range. But I do know
how exciting it is to start the engine for the first time. Good luck and
have one for me...I be test flying most of the day Saturday.
----- Original Message -----
From: <ABAYMAN(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List:engine start'n party
>
> dear listers
> just wanted to invite you to my engine starting party this sat at 2
o'clock.
> free beer and hot dogs and soda. i have my panel in and it works!. i need
to
> prime my oil ports on the engine , time the mags and fire her up. even it
it
> doesn't fire up at least we will have some beers.
> hope you can make it.
> scott
> tampa
> O360 A1A C/S HARTZELL N747ES reserved
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John" <fasching(at)amigo.net> |
| Subject: | Air-Oil Separator |
I have been searching the archives regarding air-oil separators and note
several references to Aircraft Spruce's oil breather/separator p/n 10570,
page 260 of current catalog, as being "empty" and people cutting out a
circular opening, stuffing in stainless steel scrubbers, and reclosing the
unit.
What I want to know is there someone that knows definitely that this unit is
hallow or empty and does not have mesh material on which oil is to deposit
as it exits the crankcase as an air-oil mist?
I'd like to know for certain before I cut the darn thing open.
Any info would be appreciated. I may call Spruce tomorrow and see if they
know (chances for an authoritative answer are likely slim based on my
experiences though!)
John at Salida, CO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Mosley" <mosley(at)sedona.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List: Forward Top Fusalage(F-671) on a RV6 |
Charles,
I screwed on the forward top fuselage on my RV for obvious reasons,
access. I've had it off several times to change radios and other chores
that would require crawling under the panel. I used # 8 on the
horizontal and # 6 across the top, I'd use all #8 next time. According
to Chris Heinz (Zenair designer) you need fewer screws than rivets since
stainless screws are stronger than aluminum rivets. Check out his page
at http://www.zenithair.com/kit-data/ht.html.
Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Air-Oil Separator |
In a message dated 10/18/01 7:40:44 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
fasching(at)amigo.net writes:
<< I have been searching the archives regarding air-oil separators and note
several references to Aircraft Spruce's oil breather/separator p/n 10570,
page 260 of current catalog, as being "empty" and people cutting out a
circular opening, stuffing in stainless steel scrubbers, and reclosing the
unit.
What I want to know is there someone that knows definitely that this unit is
hallow or empty and does not have mesh material on which oil is to deposit
as it exits the crankcase as an air-oil mist?
I'd like to know for certain before I cut the darn thing open.>>
I know. It's very empty.
I performed the modifications mentioned in the archives. Folks, this is a no
brainer. Buy this unit (it's dirt cheap at around $40, and if you don't want
to make the changes to accommodate the 5/8" barbs, Wicks has the same unit
also available with 3/4" barbs), fix it for about $5 in fasteners and
scrubbing pads and it will do the best job for you for the rest of your
natural life.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Balone Marine <balone_99(at)yahoo.com> |
I started painting aircraft in 1942 ,I used zinc
Chromate, I srayed Zinc chromate till 1977 when I left
aviation for the Marine Industry, I am back building a
6 and I see all this contraversy on primers, what
happened to zinc Chromate for a primer on alum.?
Bud Balone.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard V. Reynolds" <rvreynolds(at)macs.net> |
| Subject: | EAA 339 Fall Fly-IN (near Norfolk, VA) |
The Experimental Aircraft Association Chapter 339 annual Fall Fly-in is
scheduled for October 20-21, 2001 at the Portmouth (PVG) Hampton Roads
Executive Airport, approx 14nm SW of Norfolk (ORF) VA.
PVG is in Class E airspace. Check NOTAMs for restrictions around
military bases and power plants.
The weather is going to be GREAT.
The Old Dominion Squadron of the Confederate Air Force (CAF) also plans
to attend. This event usually draws a full range of aircraft from
WARBIRDS, ANTIQUES, CLASSICS, CUSTOM, AMATUER BUILT and ULTRALIGHT
catagories.
Food service during the day will be available in the Terminal building
and from the EAA Chapter 339 Hotdog stand in the west aircraft parking
area.
Chapter 339 will provide transportation to/from the Holiday Inn Motel,
2864 Pruden Blvd., Suffolk, VA 23434. For reservations call
1-757-934-2311. Rental vehicles are available at the airport terminal.
Schedule of Events
Saturday
9:00 AM - Fly-in begins
10:00 AM - 3:00 PM - Judging
6:00 PM - Social
6:00 PM - Dinner
Suday
9:00 AM - Fly-in begins
11:00 AM-3:00 PM - Young eagles Flights
4:00 PM - Fly-in ends
Richard Reynolds, Norfolk, VA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: what happened; |
In a message dated 10/19/01 6:00:35 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
balone_99(at)yahoo.com writes:
<< I started painting aircraft in 1942 ,I used zinc
Chromate, I srayed Zinc chromate till 1977 when I left
aviation for the Marine Industry, I am back building a
6 and I see all this contraversy on primers, what
happened to zinc Chromate for a primer on alum.?
Bud Balone. >>
Zinc Chromate is still availible, and remains a good corrosion preventative
barrier, but there are better products availible today. Many people have
made the transition to the newer products. Check the archives for "primer"
and you'll see more information on the subject than you could read in a long
weekend.
Kyle Boatright
0-320/Aymar Demuth RV-6 Slider
Kennesaw, GA
http://www.angelfire.com/my/rv6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gardner, Douglas (GA01)" <douglas.gardner(at)honeywell.com> |
| Subject: | RE: RV-List:engine start'n party |
-----Original Message-----
From: ABAYMAN(at)aol.com [mailto:ABAYMAN(at)aol.com]
Subject: Re: RV-List:engine start'n party
dear listers
just wanted to invite you to my engine starting party this sat at 2 o'clock.
free beer and hot dogs and soda. i have my panel in and it works!. i need to
prime my oil ports on the engine , time the mags and fire her up. even it it
doesn't fire up at least we will have some beers.
hope you can make it.
scott
tampa
O360 A1A C/S HARTZELL N747ES reserved
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-List:engine start'n party |
sorry you can't make it doug,
i'll take some pictures for you.
later pal
scott
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Helms" <jhelms(at)i1.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Insurance Question - Why can't I shop for price ??? |
Your agent IS SHOPPING FOR YOU. That is what you pay them to do. There are
only about 6 insurance companies out there that are competitive in the light
aircraft market. When your agent offers you a quote, if he only gives you
one, then you should ask him about the other markets. (In most cases,
he/she should have checked some others for you.)
Before you write back and flame me that this is not right, know this: The
insurance companies do that for 2 very good reasons (both of which
ultimately save the insurance companies AND YOU $$$.) 1) there are x
number of planes out there, if they quote each one once then they need y
number of underwriters and staff. If they quote each one 10 times then they
need 10 times y worth of staff and underwriters. By quoting to one agent at
a time they are saving you $ on your premium. You at anytime can switch to
another broker by signing a letter. 2) Most insurance companies have
several offices. They don't want to compete against themselves (example -
underwriter at one office quotes you as a 285 hour pilot and doesn't give
you the rate for 300 hours even though you are close, if another of their
offices quotes you, that underwriter may be a tad more lenient and give you
that discount even though you dont meet the requirement... If they quote
both, they look a little foolish and which one do you think the customer
would choose. So they are out the difference when they should have gotten
more.)
It isn't price fixing. You are paying your agent to do a good job for you.
If your agent isnt doing a good job then fire him/her with a Broker of
Record letter (ask your new agent and they can word it correctly for you.)
And YES AOPA is an insurance AGENCY not an insurance COMPANY. You need to
know the difference. The only insurance company that you can access
directly is AVEMCO all others use agents. If you like fast food, you'll
like AOPA.
Those of you out there who call 10 agents every year are wasting your time
and those other agents.
My suggestion: ASK QUESTIONS of your agent. If he/she only tells you of
one quote ask about the others. You can switch easily if you don't like the
answers.
John "JT" Helms
Branch Manager
----- Original Message -----
From: "philip condon" <pcondon(at)mitre.org>
Subject: RV-List: Insurance Question - Why can't I shop for price ???
.................."However, if a company has already quoted your
insurance, the quote will remain the same when transferred to the new
broker. This is typically done at or near the renewal date of your
insurance................"
Can anyone enlighten me as to why this business practice is against the
law in all other free market business areas EXCEPT in the insurance
industry ?? Collusion, price fixing, conspiracy or anti-trust business
practices come to mind if I can't get multiple quotes from different
insurance agents and select which agent (based on, among other data,
price...) I want. Today, once the first insurance agents quotes me, I am
locked in to him and no other agent will return my calls or return a
price quote. I am free to shop for any other item and make a decisions
based on cost, but the insurance industry has locked this option out for
us.......Comments anyone? This is related to RV's because some of us
want to insure them.....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Don Eaves" <doneaves(at)midsouth.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Air-Oil Separator |
John now that GV answered your question "Is this unit is hallow or empty?"
I will add - It works just fine without adding the scrubbers.
Been flying mine for 70 +- hours on a 0320 and the belly is clean.
Don Eaves
RV6 Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Japundza" <Bob.Japundza(at)realmed.com> |
I've observed the exact same phenomena. My sender block is located
midway up on the pilots side on the firewall and there were a few small
drip leaks in the first few hours. I could never find any oil streamed
down the surface of the firewall but it always ended up on the lower
hinge and streaked down the belly from there.
I haven't had to refill my brake reservoir yet, but there's some red
gunk around the sintered bronze fitting...so I know it leaks at least a
little.
Bob Japundza
RV-6 N244BJ O-360C/S flying 231 hours
>
>I recently filled my brake fluid reservoir and after flying in fairly
>turbulent conditions today I noticed what seems to be red brake fluid
>drips/runs on the bottom of the fuselage on the left side below the
>reservoir location. I can't see any on the firewall (the reservoir is
>located high on the engine side of the firewall) but it starts showing
up at
>the hinge line of the cowling/fuselage junction.
>
>I wonder: Can/will turbulent conditions cause a brake fluid reservoir
to
>spill or burp out fluid? The top of the reservoir is - as you probably
>know - just a mesh fitting that allows the thing to "breathe" but I
suspect
>it also allows it to spill fluid if too full. Also I braked rather
sharply
>today after landing; can that cause an overflow? I wouldn't think so
but
>empty minds need to know !!
>
>Has anyone else experienced this?
>
>John at Salida, CO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Berryhill" <berryhill1911(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Insurance Question - Why can't I shop for price ??? |
>
>Your agent IS SHOPPING FOR YOU. That is what you pay them to do. There
>are
>only about 6 insurance companies out there that are competitive in the
>light
>aircraft market. When your agent offers you a quote, if he only gives you
>one, then you should ask him about the other markets. (In most cases,
>he/she should have checked some others for you.)
I guess that is ok if you already have an agent but most first-time
builders/owners don't have an agent yet. You try to shop for agents but you
are effectively locked-out by the first one that gives you a quote. It just
smacks of price fixing and it doesn't seem to exist in any other form of
insurance.
Dave Berryhill
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RE: RV-List Digest: 49 Msgs - 10/18/01 |
| From: | "Bob Japundza" <Bob.Japundza(at)realmed.com> |
John,
I found that the oil separator worked marginally well out of the box. I
cut it open to add the stainless scrubber and indeed it is hollow.
Internally they're just like what Tony Bingelis describes in firewall
forward...nothing to them. In fact, I think it could easily be improved
upon--maybe I'll put that TIG welder I just acquired to good use and
make up a new and improved one...
I cut a round hole with a fly cutter in the front of it and made a cover
and cork gasket held in place with #6 screws and nutplates.
It works much better with the stainless scrubber in it, but it's still
not perfect. I still get some oil on the belly and use a quart of oil
every 10 hours, which isn't bad for an engine with chrome cylinders.
Low power settings seems to draw oil past the rings when I throttle back
for landing; usually on final if I sniff really hard I usually will
smell oil burning. And on top of that going upside down at least a few
times every time I fly and being a wannabe fighter jock (yesterday I
pulled a muscle in my neck for the umpteenth time, one confirmed Cub
kill) I've lived with having to wipe down the belly every few weeks.
Bob Japundza
RV-6 N244BJ O-360C/S flying 231 hours
>
> I have been searching the archives regarding air-oil
> separators and note
> several references to Aircraft Spruce's oil
> breather/separator p/n 10570,
> page 260 of current catalog, as being "empty" and people cutting out a
> circular opening, stuffing in stainless steel scrubbers, and
> reclosing the
> unit.
>
> What I want to know is there someone that knows definitely
> that this unit is
> hallow or empty and does not have mesh material on which oil
> is to deposit
> as it exits the crankcase as an air-oil mist?
>
> I'd like to know for certain before I cut the darn thing open.
>
> Any info would be appreciated. I may call Spruce tomorrow and
> see if they
> know (chances for an authoritative answer are likely slim based on my
> experiences though!)
>
> John at Salida, CO
>
> ______________________________________________________________
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Insurance Question - Why can't I shop for price ??? |
In a message dated 10/19/2001 9:31:59 AM Central Daylight Time,
berryhill1911(at)hotmail.com writes:
> I guess that is ok if you already have an agent but most first-time
> builders/owners don't have an agent yet. You try to shop for agents but
> you
> are effectively locked-out by the first one that gives you a quote. It
> just
> smacks of price fixing and it doesn't seem to exist in any other form of
> insurance.
>
> Dave Berryhill
Well, I hate to tell u this, but commercial insurance is the same most
companies will only do the quote for the first agent that gets it to them.
Group health is the same way. You want a different agent you sign an agent
of record letter. Its as simple as that.
Theres no price fixing or anything like that.
chris wilcox, president
CGW Insurance/Investments, Inc
www.cgwi.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: pre oiling lycoming |
dear listers
trying to get ready for starting my o360 a1a tomorrow. wondering if anyone
has a copy of the service instruction 1241 put out by lycoming for pre-oiling
the engine before start up. please fax me a copy at 813-879-0020. or point me
to the place on the web where i can print it.
thanks in advance.
scott
tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: pre oiling lycoming |
http://www.prime-mover.org/Aviation/Bulletins/si1241.html
Don't know if it's current or not.
)_( Dan
dan(at)rvproject.com
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: <ABAYMAN(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: pre oiling lycoming
>
> dear listers
> trying to get ready for starting my o360 a1a tomorrow. wondering if anyone
> has a copy of the service instruction 1241 put out by lycoming for
pre-oiling
> the engine before start up. please fax me a copy at 813-879-0020. or point
me
> to the place on the web where i can print it.
> thanks in advance.
> scott
> tampa
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: pre oiling lycoming |
| From: | "Bob Lueder" <Blueder(at)SUPERIORAIRPARTS.COM> |
10/19/2001 01:16:37 PM
I have a copy of that service instruction revision C. what were you looking
for?
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: pre oiling lycoming |
| From: | "Bob Lueder" <Blueder(at)SUPERIORAIRPARTS.COM> |
10/19/2001 01:21:26 PM
you should have received my fax by now
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: pre oiling lycoming |
> dear listers
> trying to get ready for starting my o360 a1a tomorrow. wondering if anyone
> has a copy of the service instruction 1241 put out by lycoming for
pre-oiling
> the engine before start up. please fax me a copy at 813-879-0020. or point
me
> to the place on the web where i can print it.
> thanks in advance.
> scott
> tampa
Why not just disable your ignition and turn the engine with the starter
until the engine pressurizes as indicated by your oil pressure gauge? Bart
Lalonde recommends this and it's what I did... worked great. For me it was
easy because I just turned my Lasar switch off and cranked.
Randy Lervold
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Don Eaves" <doneaves(at)midsouth.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Air-Oil Separator |
Bob - Add this little item and see if it helps"
Run the exhaust end on to a piece of pipe - I used 1/2" electrical Conduit -
Clamp it onto one exhaust pipe with 2" stainless hose clamps - Point the end
into the exhaust air and it should do 2 things - Vaporize any oil or water
vapor that escapes and will keep the water vapor from freezing.
Might note the type of flying you are doing will not allow gravity to drain
the oil back into the crank case. Anyway scrubbers slows this process down
allowing more oil to get to the outlet and out onto the belly. Chrome
cylinders don't help much either. Mine without scrubbers, steel cylinders
and run like heck to break it in - Works for me -
Enjoy them Hammer Heads - Bob...
Don Eaves
RV6 Flying 70+- Hrs
60+- Hrs On the separator.. No Oil On Belly Anymore.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Japundza" <Bob.Japundza(at)realmed.com>
Subject: RV-List: RE: RV-List Digest: 49 Msgs - 10/18/01
>
> John,
>
> I found that the oil separator worked marginally well out of the box. I
> cut it open to add the stainless scrubber and indeed it is hollow.
> Internally they're just like what Tony Bingelis describes in firewall
> forward...nothing to them. In fact, I think it could easily be improved
> upon--maybe I'll put that TIG welder I just acquired to good use and
> make up a new and improved one...
>
> I cut a round hole with a fly cutter in the front of it and made a cover
> and cork gasket held in place with #6 screws and nutplates.
>
> It works much better with the stainless scrubber in it, but it's still
> not perfect. I still get some oil on the belly and use a quart of oil
> every 10 hours, which isn't bad for an engine with chrome cylinders.
> Low power settings seems to draw oil past the rings when I throttle back
> for landing; usually on final if I sniff really hard I usually will
> smell oil burning. And on top of that going upside down at least a few
> times every time I fly and being a wannabe fighter jock (yesterday I
> pulled a muscle in my neck for the umpteenth time, one confirmed Cub
> kill) I've lived with having to wipe down the belly every few weeks.
>
> Bob Japundza
> RV-6 N244BJ O-360C/S flying 231 hours
>
> >
> > I have been searching the archives regarding air-oil
> > separators and note
> > several references to Aircraft Spruce's oil
> > breather/separator p/n 10570,
> > page 260 of current catalog, as being "empty" and people cutting out a
> > circular opening, stuffing in stainless steel scrubbers, and
> > reclosing the
> > unit.
> >
> > What I want to know is there someone that knows definitely
> > that this unit is
> > hallow or empty and does not have mesh material on which oil
> > is to deposit
> > as it exits the crankcase as an air-oil mist?
> >
> > I'd like to know for certain before I cut the darn thing open.
> >
> > Any info would be appreciated. I may call Spruce tomorrow and
> > see if they
> > know (chances for an authoritative answer are likely slim based on my
> > experiences though!)
> >
> > John at Salida, CO
> >
> > ______________________________________________________________
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: pre oiling lycoming |
| From: | "Bob Lueder" <Blueder(at)SUPERIORAIRPARTS.COM> |
10/19/2001 02:43:34 PM
I'm fairly confident that it is.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larygagnon(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Oil line to prop on O360 |
I'm making the baffles for my O360 and the line to the front of the engine
for the C/S prop is in the way. Since I'm using a fixed pitch prop can I
remove that line and cap both ends with a pipe plug or does it serve some
other function and I should make the baffle around it. Thanks in advance for
the info, keep up the good work on the list.
RV6 Finishing Kit N6LG (reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Owens, Laird" <Owens(at)aerovironment.com> |
| Subject: | pre oiling lycoming |
I did the same as Randy, but pulled the lower plugs to get it to spin a little
faster. Oil pressure was up very quickly.
Laird (wishing I was on my way to Las Cruses)
RV-6 360 hrs
SoCal
Why not just disable your ignition and turn the engine with the starter
until the engine pressurizes as indicated by your oil pressure gauge? Bart
Lalonde recommends this and it's what I did... worked great. For me it was
easy because I just turned my Lasar switch off and cranked.
Randy Lervold
> dear listers
> trying to get ready for starting my o360 a1a tomorrow. wondering if anyone
> has a copy of the service instruction 1241 put out by lycoming for
pre-oiling
> the engine before start up. please fax me a copy at 813-879-0020. or point
me
> to the place on the web where i can print it.
> thanks in advance.
> scott
> tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: pre oiling lycoming |
thanks bob
this list is amazing!!!
scott
tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: pre oiling lycoming / thanks |
thanks guys,
i have received about 6 copies from many listers, this is one resourceful
group ! and friendly at that.
thanks everyone !
SCOTT
TAMPA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Textor" <jack(at)IaJobs.com> |
| Subject: | Affordable Tubine Power ?web address? |
Hi all,
Anyone know the site for ATP (I think). Not in the yellow pages. They had
a turbine mounted to an RV4 at Oshkosh this year. Have not heard much about
them. Claimed 20k and 200+ hp.
Thanks,
Jack
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Oil line to prop on O360 |
> I'm making the baffles for my O360 and the line to the front of the engine
> for the C/S prop is in the way. Since I'm using a fixed pitch prop can I
> remove that line and cap both ends with a pipe plug or does it serve some
> other function and I should make the baffle around it. Thanks in advance
for
> the info, keep up the good work on the list.
>
> RV6 Finishing Kit N6LG (reserved)
Yes, you can remove the pipe and plug the holes. If you have the solid SS
line then you can also sell it!
Randy Lervold
RV-8, #80500, 133 hrs.
www.rv-8.com
Home Wing VAF
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Norman, MD" <jnorman(at)intermapsystems.com> |
| Subject: | Oil line to prop on O360 |
Lary,
You can't simply cap the hose. In order to remove that hose, you have to do
a number of things to the engine. You will have to plug the rear hose, but
you will have to punch a hole in the inner crankshaft plug before you can
remove the front hose (actually, you will have to do that anyway). You will
have to make sure your inner plug is punched, and your outer plug is not
(and that you actually have an outer plug, since it seems that this engine
was running a CS prop, and therefore, did not have an outer crankshaft
plug). The line will not be needed and can be removed provided your inner
and outer crankshaft props are appropriate for the prop type you are using.
Read the archives, as I posted a pretty long piece on this topic (albeit
backwards of the current question) about 6 weeks ago.
Jim
tampa
6A, FWF
Note, your milage may very! Make sure you understand what is going on with
that hose!
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
Larygagnon(at)aol.com
Subject: RV-List: Oil line to prop on O360
I'm making the baffles for my O360 and the line to the front of the engine
for the C/S prop is in the way. Since I'm using a fixed pitch prop can I
remove that line and cap both ends with a pipe plug or does it serve some
other function and I should make the baffle around it. Thanks in advance
for
the info, keep up the good work on the list.
RV6 Finishing Kit N6LG (reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Lundin <rlundin46(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Affordable Tubine Power ?web address? |
The address for Affordable Turbine Power is
http://www.atpcoinc.com
Rick
RV-8 tail (still installing house heating system)
--- Jack Textor wrote:
>
>
> Hi all,
> Anyone know the site for ATP (I think). Not in the
> yellow pages. They had
> a turbine mounted to an RV4 at Oshkosh this year.
> Have not heard much about
> them. Claimed 20k and 200+ hp.
> Thanks,
> Jack
>
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/unsubscribe
>
>
>
> through
>
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
> Matronics!
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Grover" <grover(at)ev1.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Affordable Tubine Power ?web address? |
>
> Hi all,
> Anyone know the site for ATP (I think). Not in the yellow pages. They
had
> a turbine mounted to an RV4 at Oshkosh this year. Have not heard much
about
> them. Claimed 20k and 200+ hp.
> Thanks,
> Jack
website www.atpcoinc.com , email is ATPCOINC(at)NETPHD.NET , phone #
814-339-7328 and Charlie Nearhoof, vice president. That's everything I have
off of his business card that I received at OSH '01.
David
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | Off-topic: Need software recommendation |
This is a bit off-topic (who, me? off topic?? never!)
I figured who better to ask than a bunch of computer nerd airplane builders.
For those of you who are familiar with Laurie Davis' CoPilot software for
the Palm platform, do you know of a similar program for PocketPC platorms?
I've really grown accustomed to planning my flights with that little gem but
can't find something similar for my new Journada. (Not an Ipac but it was
free!)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Norman" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Forward Top Fusalage(F-671) on a RV6 |
> Has any one out there put F-671 on with plate nuts and screws? If so what
> size screws did you use? It would seem to me this would make accessability
to
> the firewall much easier. What do you think?
Is this the front top skin over the avionics? I've seen a few RV's with it
fastened by screws. Doesn't Jon Johansson's RV4 have it done this way? I'd
use a thin bead of silicone all the way around for water protection. You are
not likely to open it very often but if you ever have to change any wiring
you will be very grateful. Ask Van if he's seen people do this and what he
thinks.
Use #8 screws as it is no fun practicing using screw extractors when #6
screws break off. Always use a small dab of lubricant in all platenuts
before first use.
Norman Hunger
RV6A Delta BC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JNice51355(at)aol.com |
I have some questions for those who profess to be "engine gurus". I am
interested in spark plug information for an 0320E2A. I was led to believe
that there is an "extended reach" plug made for this engine that actually
makes it run smoother and develop more power. Anyone know about these
plugs?? I was told that they can be used with the 0320 models that are low
compression(without the domed pistons), and that they actually give you a
better burn. I'm just mulling this stuff over, since annual is getting
close. I "have not" had any problems with lead fouling, and some say just
pull the eight plugs, clean & gap them, and put four new ones in the bottom
side, and don't fix it if it aint broke.
Jim Nice
WA State
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: HOTAS in an RV? |
I'm planning on the Infinity stick grip, with starter switch on the
grip. I plan to have a Start Enable switch on the instrument panel,
in series with the switch on the grip. That will protect against
inadvertent activation of the start switch in flight. I may use a
three position switch for that Start Enable function, with one of the
positions being a momentary one that provides a back-up start
command. This will simplify the emergency checklist if I ever need
to do an in-flight restart.
Kevin Horton RV-8 (installing engine)
Ottawa, Canada
http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html
>
>This is what I *love* about this list. Great feedback from people
>who have been there before! I think if I was
>buying today the Infinity is probably the way i'd go. As it stands,
>though, i'm just starting my empennage kit so
>have a while before I have to decide... 8-)
>
>Regarding the starting issue (inadvertent activation), how about
>this... Require that the pilot depress one switch
>on the Infinity Throttle Quadrant (hint, hint, if Infinity is
>watching...) *and* one button on the Stick before the
>starter would engage? This would ensure that you indeed had both
>hands on the controls, and make inadvertent
>activation much less likely...
>
>-RB4
>
>pichon.dean(at)ADLittle.com wrote:
>
>>
>> The (momentary) start button on the stick grip allows me to start the
>> engine with my left hand on the throttle quadrant and the other hand
>> holding the stick full aft. I love this set-up, but have had 2 A&P's both
>> tell me it is a poor system because it is too easy to inadvertently hit the
>> switch while entering or exiting the cockpit. It should be noted that both
>> A&P's were "a little chubby" for an aircraft as svelte as a -4. It is
>> necessary, of course, that the master switch be ON in order for the start
>> switch to turn the prop.
>>
>> The guy at Infinity has been talking about a custom throttle quadrant with
>> a variety of switches for at least 3 years. He is always a little short of
>> money to complete the design/drawings/tooling... If it every makes it to
> > market, I'm sure it would be a nice upgrade.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: what happened; |
>
>I started painting aircraft in 1942 ,I used zinc
>Chromate, I srayed Zinc chromate till 1977 when I left
>
>aviation for the Marine Industry, I am back building a
>6 and I see all this contraversy on primers, what
>happened to zinc Chromate for a primer on alum.?
>Bud Balone.
>
What happened was that they decided that zinc chromate causes cancer
(like just about every else). So the industry moved to other,
supposedly less toxic primers.
See:
http://www.osha-slc.gov/SLTC/healthguidelines/zincchromate/recognition.html
http://www.osha-slc.gov/dts/tdc/docketoffice/h054a/h054amast.html
http://www.cdc.gov/niosh/78127_4.html
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (installing engine)
Ottawa, Canada
http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Norman" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
| Subject: | MT Prop MTV-12-B/183-59 |
Here's the goods from Germany:
The recommended MT prop for RV's is the hydraulic 3 blade
MTV-12-B/183-59 if you need the extended hub to fit a Sam James cowl.
MT recommends that hydraulic be used rather than electric due to the
high pitch change our aircraft require.
The prop is $7930 and the spinner assembly is $970 for a total of $8900.
All prices US Dollar. Shipping is from Germany, my American friends can
now have the joyus pleasurable experience to try importing. Ha Ha Ha
The prop and spinner are finish painted in white and the prop has red
tips. Custom paint schemes are $130.
This prop and spinner combo weigh 45 lbs. Does any one know how heavy
the Hartzell CS weigh? With or without the spinner?
They offer a "special small light weight governor P-420-3" for $1400
with a weight of 2 lbs. How much does a Woodward governor weight? It can
also be used.
They never answered me on the ability of this prop to handle rain. I
figure if it is good enough for Jon to fly around the world it should
work for me. I'll be sure to use the leading edge tape that some Listers
have recommended.
Does any one feel that this set up will be lighter than a Hartzell CS
installation? Any one have a weight of a Van's spinner assembly?
Regards,
Norman Hunger
RV6A Delta BC
________________________________________________________________________________
Champion REM37BY or Unison UREM37BY. The Unisons are nickel plated and will
not rust.
> I was led to believe
> that there is an "extended reach" plug made for this engine that actually
> makes it run smoother and develop more power. Anyone know about these
> plugs?? I was told that they can be used with the 0320 models that are
low
> compression(without the domed pistons), and that they actually give you a
> better burn. I'm just mulling this stuff over, since annual is getting
> close. I "have not" had any problems with lead fouling, and some say just
> pull the eight plugs, clean & gap them, and put four new ones in the
bottom
> side, and don't fix it if it aint broke.
> Jim Nice
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil line to prop on O360 |
The info below is correct but don't forget you have to plug the front of the
crank after removing the plug in the back of the front journal gallery to
let the oil flow into the engine instead of the prop.
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
----- Original Message -----
From: "Randy Lervold" <randy@rv-8.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Oil line to prop on O360
> I'm making the baffles for my O360 and the line to the front of the engine
> for the C/S prop is in the way. Since I'm using a fixed pitch prop can I
> remove that line and cap both ends with a pipe plug or does it serve some
> other function and I should make the baffle around it. Thanks in advance
for
> the info, keep up the good work on the list.
>
> RV6 Finishing Kit N6LG (reserved)
Yes, you can remove the pipe and plug the holes. If you have the solid SS
line then you can also sell it!
Randy Lervold
RV-8, #80500, 133 hrs.
www.rv-8.com
Home Wing VAF
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: MT Prop MTV-12-B/183-59 |
PROPELLERS....
before you guys plunk down a bunch of money do yourself a favor and
inquire about whirlwind propellers. the 200C 2 blade will out perform any 3
or 2 blade prop currently available. read SPORT AEROBATICS june 2001 for a
complete comparison of 5 different props or call whirlwind at 619 562-3725 or
www.whirlwindpropellers.com
made in america, can be flown in rain, good warranty and less
expensive than the others. the 3 blade looks great but the 2 blade will out
perform it. i've flown then all.
mike
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Norman" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: HOTAS in an RV? |
> I'm planning on the Infinity stick grip, with starter switch on the
> grip. I plan to have a Start Enable switch on the instrument panel,
> in series with the switch on the grip. That will protect against
> inadvertent activation of the start switch in flight.
For those putting a starter switch on the stick, this is the way to go.
Norman Hunger
RV6A Delta BC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Berryhill" <berryhill1911(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: HOTAS in an RV? |
>
> > I'm planning on the Infinity stick grip, with starter switch on the
> > grip. I plan to have a Start Enable switch on the instrument panel,
> > in series with the switch on the grip. That will protect against
> > inadvertent activation of the start switch in flight.
>
>For those putting a starter switch on the stick, this is the way to go.
>Norman Hunger
>RV6A Delta BC
I don't understand. If you need to reach for a switch on the panel, why not
just use the ignition switch in the first place?
Dave Berryhill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
Ditto to that. I have a pair in mine. They not only are very functional,
but extremely comfortable. I only ended up with three functions, and I'm
glad I didn't do more. Trim, Flaps, and PTT. The flaps on stick is
AWESOME. I found it to be extremely helpful to not have to take my hands
off to hit the flaps if I am too high or fast. I'll add a touch of flaps
any time. For a picture of these for you new guys, you can see one at:
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing/flight.htm
Paul Besing
RV-6A N197AB Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Flying
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "John B. Abell" <jbabell(at)mediaone.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: HOTAS in an RV?
I installed Infinity grips on both sticks. Each contains a coolie hat that
works in four directions, PTT, flap, landing lights, autopilot disconnect,
and video camera switch. Except for frequency changes and navigational
chores, I never need to take my hands off the stick and throttle during
approaches, landings, or departures. Try it; you'll like it.
Best wishes,
Jack Abell
Rob Prior wrote:
>
> Has anyone implimented a full HOTAS (Hands On Throttle And Stick) system
> in their RV? If so, can you tell me what stick and throttle grips
> you're using, and where you acquired them? So far i've seen grips from
>
> Infinity Aerospace (http://www.infinityaerospace.com/)
> Automatic Flagman (no website)
> MAC (http://www.menzimeraircraft.com/)
>
> My current favorite is the Infinity stick, but i'd be interested to know
> if there are other options.
>
> --
> ---------
> Rob Prior
> rv7 "at" b4.ca
> -----------------------------
> Stop dreaming... Start flying
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: HOTAS in an RV? |
>
>>
>> > I'm planning on the Infinity stick grip, with starter switch on the
>> > grip. I plan to have a Start Enable switch on the instrument panel,
>> > in series with the switch on the grip. That will protect against
>> > inadvertent activation of the start switch in flight.
>>
>>For those putting a starter switch on the stick, this is the way to go.
>>Norman Hunger
>>RV6A Delta BC
>
>I don't understand. If you need to reach for a switch on the panel, why not
>just use the ignition switch in the first place?
>
>Dave Berryhill
>
I want to have one hand on the stick and one on the throttle when I
start (I'm building a taildragger). But, I'm afraid of inadvertently
hitting the start button on the stick in flight. So, before start, I
select the toggle switch on the panel to enable the one on the stick.
Then when I am ready to crank the engine I just push the button on
the stick. After start I put the toggle switch on the panel to OFF.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (installing engine)
Ottawa, Canada
http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | barry pote <barrypote(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | RV9a fuselage final width |
A HEADS UP!!!!!!!!!!!!!...............................
: My instrument panel had a gap on either side, between it and the
longerons of about 1/4" on both sides. I was glad I had not nailed on
any of the instrument panel side brackets to the fuselage. I was also
glad I called Van's tech. They said it is fairly easy to squeeze the
sides of the fuselage together, before you nail the instrument panel
angles down (rivet them). That the best thing , was put the roll bar
(slider version) in place before finishing the front fuselage details.
It is steel and does not easily change width. I remembered seeing some
comments on the LIST about the rollbar not fitting at 'canopy time'. Of
course you have to have the finish kit on hand to have the rollbar. And
it might be nice if future manuals mention this in the fuselage section.
Barry Pote RV9a fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Norman" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: HOTAS in an RV? |
> > > I'm planning on the Infinity stick grip, with starter switch on the
> > > grip. I plan to have a Start Enable switch on the instrument panel,
> > > in series with the switch on the grip. That will protect against
> > > inadvertent activation of the start switch in flight.
> I don't understand. If you need to reach for a switch on the panel, why
not
> just use the ignition switch in the first place?
Engine start is one of the few times in an RV that one needs three hands.
1 The stick should be held full aft
2 The throttle should have your other hand on it
3 Then you need to engage the electric starter motor
The switch on the panel is an on/off toggle in series with a momentary push
button on the joystick. Now the pilot can start with just two hands. The
disadvantage of a momentary button on the stick is inadvertent activation.
Having the toggle on the panel to activate the push button joystick switch
eliminates this potential problem. Simply turn off the toggle once the
engine is running.
This is not the way I'm doing it but that doesn't mean I don't like it, I
just prefer a different way. I will change my whole gameplan if Infinity
puts out their throttle quadrant before it is too late for me. Then I will
have engine start on the throttle.
Regards,
Norman Hunger
RV6A Delta BC
Now researching Whirlwind Propellers
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Suitability of Home Depot's resporators? |
FYI, Sherwin Williams sells a 3M brand disposable organic respirator that is
good for 100 hours of continuous use. It costs about $20 if I remember
correctly. Cheaper than the refill cartridges for the reusable one.
Paul Besing
RV-6A N197AB Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Flying
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Newman" <newmanb(at)rocketmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Suitability of Home Depot's resporators?
The Home Depot 3M respirator I am familiar with comes with a cartridge rated
at 95% of Organic vapors
and mist. Much better than nothing, but with Chromates you really want a
P100 (100%) NIOSH
approved organic vapor/mist cartridge. I don't think 3M makes one of those
for the Home Depot style
mask. You can buy a quality P100 respirator from Mcmaster.com for a fairly
reasonable price. The half
mask style is OK if all you plan to use is spray cans. - Bob
From: dag adamson <dag_adamson(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: RV-List: Suitability of Home Depot's resporators?
Send reply to: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
> Hello-
>
> (1)
> A friend gave me a 3M resporator mask for painting -
> unfortunately, it appears it doesn't have replaceable
> cartridges. I have been using it a while and was
> wondering how often I should replace the cartridges?
>
> (2)
> Does anyone know if Home Depot or suimilar retailer
> would have an appropriate mask for painting? HD has a
> bunch, but I am not sure that they are appropriate...
>
> (3)
> It seems like there are a bunch of different gov't
> standards on masks - recommendations on what rating?
>
> I am just using rattle cans - but I am using Zinc
> chromate and want to continue to play it safe.
>
> Thanks
> Dag
>
> ====
> *****************
> Dag Adamson
> 617 513 1182
> Natick, MA
> *****************
>
>
Bob
newmanb(at)rocketmail.com
newmanb(at)rocketmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Sipp" <rsipp(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Forward Top Fusalage(F-671) on a RV6 |
Norm:
#8 screws and nut plates is the standard design method for attachment of the
F 471 forward top fuselage skin on the RV-4. On the 4 that skin overlaps
all of the structure underneath it so leakage is not an issue.
It would seem to me that using a lubricant on a fastener used with a nut
plate would at least partially defeat the self locking feature of the
nutplate. I know they can be a little trouble when new, but I have never
seen any aviation maintenance literature that recommends this technique.
Dick Sipp
N250DS RV-4
> Is this the front top skin over the avionics? I've seen a few RV's with it
> fastened by screws. Doesn't Jon Johansson's RV4 have it done this way? I'd
> use a thin bead of silicone all the way around for water protection. You
are
> not likely to open it very often but if you ever have to change any wiring
> you will be very grateful. Ask Van if he's seen people do this and what he
> thinks.
>
> Use #8 screws as it is no fun practicing using screw extractors when #6
> screws break off. Always use a small dab of lubricant in all platenuts
> before first use.
>
> Norman Hunger
> RV6A Delta BC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: HOTAS in an RV? |
Your ideas about starting a Tail Dragger are unusual. You can eliminate the
hands on stick by merely pulling back and hold it there with your legs, If
you feel that is necessary.
But I have a taildragger and unless you start it at full throttle, I haven't
found it necessary to hold full aft stick. After the engine catches, one can
easily move a hand from the starter to the controls. The very action of
pulling back, enhances the hold down of the tail.
I feel you are adding extra complexity and failure points when none is
needed. But what do I know? I have only been flying taildraggers for 30
years.
Cy Galley - Bellanca Champion Club
Newsletter Editor & EAA TC
www.bellanca-championclub.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Norman" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca>
Subject: Re: RV-List: HOTAS in an RV?
> > > I'm planning on the Infinity stick grip, with starter switch on the
> > > grip. I plan to have a Start Enable switch on the instrument panel,
> > > in series with the switch on the grip. That will protect against
> > > inadvertent activation of the start switch in flight.
> I don't understand. If you need to reach for a switch on the panel, why
not
> just use the ignition switch in the first place?
Engine start is one of the few times in an RV that one needs three hands.
1 The stick should be held full aft
2 The throttle should have your other hand on it
3 Then you need to engage the electric starter motor
The switch on the panel is an on/off toggle in series with a momentary push
button on the joystick. Now the pilot can start with just two hands. The
disadvantage of a momentary button on the stick is inadvertent activation.
Having the toggle on the panel to activate the push button joystick switch
eliminates this potential problem. Simply turn off the toggle once the
engine is running.
This is not the way I'm doing it but that doesn't mean I don't like it, I
just prefer a different way. I will change my whole gameplan if Infinity
puts out their throttle quadrant before it is too late for me. Then I will
have engine start on the throttle.
Regards,
Norman Hunger
RV6A Delta BC
Now researching Whirlwind Propellers
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
| Subject: | Re: HOTAS in an RV? |
Seems like alot of steps when you hand has to go to the panel anyway. Also,
how often do you use the stick when taxiing? Excuse my ignorance, I'm a
sissy nose wheel type, so I don't get the stick in the hand thing when you
are starting. What does having you hand on the stick during start up
accomplish? My hand doesn't touch the stick until I do the run up. Long
after the engine was started.
Paul Besing
RV-6A N197AB Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Flying
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kevin Horton" <khorton(at)cyberus.ca>
Subject: Re: RV-List: HOTAS in an RV?
>
>>
>> > I'm planning on the Infinity stick grip, with starter switch on the
>> > grip. I plan to have a Start Enable switch on the instrument panel,
>> > in series with the switch on the grip. That will protect against
>> > inadvertent activation of the start switch in flight.
>>
>>For those putting a starter switch on the stick, this is the way to go.
>>Norman Hunger
>>RV6A Delta BC
>
>I don't understand. If you need to reach for a switch on the panel, why
not
>just use the ignition switch in the first place?
>
>Dave Berryhill
>
I want to have one hand on the stick and one on the throttle when I
start (I'm building a taildragger). But, I'm afraid of inadvertently
hitting the start button on the stick in flight. So, before start, I
select the toggle switch on the panel to enable the one on the stick.
Then when I am ready to crank the engine I just push the button on
the stick. After start I put the toggle switch on the panel to OFF.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (installing engine)
Ottawa, Canada
http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: MT Prop MTV-12-B/183-59 |
One thing is for sure your wallet will be lighter, especially after you
spend another $2,000.00 for shipping from Germany.
I'm not guessing at the shipping cost, $2000.00 is what I was quoted by Tom
Green yesterday.
Garry "Casper"
Norman wrote:
>
> Here's the goods from Germany:
>
> The recommended MT prop for RV's is the hydraulic 3 blade
> MTV-12-B/183-59 if you need the extended hub to fit a Sam James cowl.
>
> MT recommends that hydraulic be used rather than electric due to the
> high pitch change our aircraft require.
>
> The prop is $7930 and the spinner assembly is $970 for a total of $8900.
> All prices US Dollar. Shipping is from Germany, my American friends can
> now have the joyus pleasurable experience to try importing. Ha Ha Ha
>
> The prop and spinner are finish painted in white and the prop has red
> tips. Custom paint schemes are $130.
>
> This prop and spinner combo weigh 45 lbs. Does any one know how heavy
> the Hartzell CS weigh? With or without the spinner?
>
> They offer a "special small light weight governor P-420-3" for $1400
> with a weight of 2 lbs. How much does a Woodward governor weight? It can
> also be used.
>
> They never answered me on the ability of this prop to handle rain. I
> figure if it is good enough for Jon to fly around the world it should
> work for me. I'll be sure to use the leading edge tape that some Listers
> have recommended.
>
> Does any one feel that this set up will be lighter than a Hartzell CS
> installation? Any one have a weight of a Van's spinner assembly?
>
> Regards,
> Norman Hunger
> RV6A Delta BC
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: MT Prop MTV-12-B/183-59 |
| From: | Denis Walsh <deniswalsh(at)earthlink.net> |
on 10/19/01 17:55, Norman at nhunger(at)sprint.ca wrote:
>
> Here's the goods from Germany:
>
> The recommended MT prop for RV's is the hydraulic 3 blade
> MTV-12-B/183-59 if you need the extended hub to fit a Sam James cowl.
>
> MT recommends that hydraulic be used rather than electric due to the
> high pitch change our aircraft require.
>
> The prop is $7930 and the spinner assembly is $970 for a total of $8900.
> All prices US Dollar. Shipping is from Germany, my American friends can
> now have the joyus pleasurable experience to try importing. Ha Ha Ha
>
> The prop and spinner are finish painted in white and the prop has red
> tips. Custom paint schemes are $130.
>
> This prop and spinner combo weigh 45 lbs. Does any one know how heavy
> the Hartzell CS weigh? With or without the spinner?
>
> They offer a "special small light weight governor P-420-3" for $1400
> with a weight of 2 lbs. How much does a Woodward governor weight? It can
> also be used.
>
> They never answered me on the ability of this prop to handle rain. I
> figure if it is good enough for Jon to fly around the world it should
> work for me. I'll be sure to use the leading edge tape that some Listers
> have recommended.
>
> Does any one feel that this set up will be lighter than a Hartzell CS
> installation? Any one have a weight of a Van's spinner assembly?
>
> Regards,
> Norman Hunger
> RV6A Delta BC
My Hartzell weighed 50 lb. That is what they said it would weigh, but being
from Missouri, I clutched it and got on the bathroom scale and did the math,
just like when I weigh my dog. It is for the O-360, but there is not much
difference. The spinner don't weigh much I would say less than a pound.
The Woodward is probably heavier than one pound but lighter than five (A
WAG).
So combining all my WAGS, it seems to me the difference in weight would be
about 5 pounds plus or minus three.
Efficiency would be a bigger matter. I have heard on the grapevine that
Van's got the same performance out of a Hartzell. That leaves the
smoothness factor and possibly a ground clearance advantage if it is less
than 72 inches, which by the way doesn't give much ground clearance in a 6A
IMHO.
All that said, they sure are pretty.
Denis
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: MT Prop MTV-12-B/183-59 |
Mike is right. I've been working with Jim at Whirlwind to get a RV prop set up
on
"Casper" so we can test it. Hope to have some hard data to share with everyone
within a month, but it looks real good so far. I would just add that we are
working on the three blade which is around 28 lb.. The two blade props are set
up
for unlimited aerobatics, are much heavier and have a wide cord blade for low
speed torque (vertical stuff).
Garry "Casper"
PittsS1(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> PROPELLERS....
> before you guys plunk down a bunch of money do yourself a favor and
> inquire about whirlwind propellers. the 200C 2 blade will out perform any 3
> or 2 blade prop currently available. read SPORT AEROBATICS june 2001 for a
> complete comparison of 5 different props or call whirlwind at 619 562-3725 or
> www.whirlwindpropellers.com
> made in america, can be flown in rain, good warranty and less
> expensive than the others. the 3 blade looks great but the 2 blade will out
> perform it. i've flown then all.
> mike
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)peoplepc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: HOTAS in an RV? |
Tailwheel types are taught from the beginning to keep that stick in your lap
in just about every situation except when taxiing with a tailwind.
During start up, if you happen to have too much throttle, a brisk headwind
or maybe the propwash from another airplane in the area (I've had this
happen to me), it would be easy to have the tail come up when starting the
plane. Since there is no nosewheel to stop things a prop strike is a
possibility. I've only got about 200 hours in my tailwheel Stinson but it
does not have a steerable tailwheel and will let you know very quickly when
you are not paying attention......but using your feet is another topic.
I'm no instructor, but I would highly recommend any pilot (tail wheel or
otherwise) be very aware of wind velocity and direction anytime the plane is
moving (or standing still for that matter) and always use the appropriate
control inputs. It's easy to get complacent in a nosewheel and taxi around
using only your feet. I wouldn't recommend that. Proper control inputs
when taxing should be a fundamental that all pilots follow and was stressed
to me on my first training flight before I ever got airborn.
Mike Nellis - http://bmnellis.com
Plainfield, IL
RV6 N699BM Reserved
Mounting Control Surfaces
Stinson 108-2 N9666K
>
> Seems like alot of steps when you hand has to go to the panel anyway.
Also,
> how often do you use the stick when taxiing? Excuse my ignorance, I'm a
> sissy nose wheel type, so I don't get the stick in the hand thing when you
> are starting. What does having you hand on the stick during start up
> accomplish? My hand doesn't touch the stick until I do the run up. Long
> after the engine was started.
>
> Paul Besing
> RV-6A N197AB Arizona
> http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
> Flying
> Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
> http://www.kitlog.com
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Kevin Horton" <khorton(at)cyberus.ca>
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: HOTAS in an RV?
>
>
>
> >
> >>
> >> > I'm planning on the Infinity stick grip, with starter switch on the
> >> > grip. I plan to have a Start Enable switch on the instrument panel,
> >> > in series with the switch on the grip. That will protect against
> >> > inadvertent activation of the start switch in flight.
> >>
> >>For those putting a starter switch on the stick, this is the way to go.
> >>Norman Hunger
> >>RV6A Delta BC
> >
> >I don't understand. If you need to reach for a switch on the panel, why
> not
> >just use the ignition switch in the first place?
> >
> >Dave Berryhill
> >
>
> I want to have one hand on the stick and one on the throttle when I
> start (I'm building a taildragger). But, I'm afraid of inadvertently
> hitting the start button on the stick in flight. So, before start, I
> select the toggle switch on the panel to enable the one on the stick.
> Then when I am ready to crank the engine I just push the button on
> the stick. After start I put the toggle switch on the panel to OFF.
>
> --
> Kevin Horton RV-8 (installing engine)
> Ottawa, Canada
> http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: MT Prop MTV-12-B/183-59 |
> ground clearance advantage if it is less
> than 72 inches, which by the way doesn't give much ground clearance in a 6A
> IMHO.
you saying i'm going to have a ground clearance problem with mt 76 inch prop
on my 6a?
scott
tampa
prop is still 8 inches from the ground
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Norman" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: HOTAS in an RV? |
Cy, you are miss quoting me. I said I wasn't going to do this and I don't
have a taildragger. Perhaps you are responding to some one else's post. I
was merely clarifying the reason that a builder would go this route. I
clearly say in my last paragraph that I am not doing this and never do I
claim to give advice on starting a taildragger.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org>
Subject: Re: RV-List: HOTAS in an RV?
>
> Your ideas about starting a Tail Dragger are unusual. You can eliminate
the
> hands on stick by merely pulling back and hold it there with your legs, If
> you feel that is necessary.
>
> But I have a taildragger and unless you start it at full throttle, I
haven't
> found it necessary to hold full aft stick. After the engine catches, one
can
> easily move a hand from the starter to the controls. The very action of
> pulling back, enhances the hold down of the tail.
>
> I feel you are adding extra complexity and failure points when none is
> needed. But what do I know? I have only been flying taildraggers for 30
> years.
>
> Cy Galley - Bellanca Champion Club
> Newsletter Editor & EAA TC
> www.bellanca-championclub.com
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Norman" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca>
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: HOTAS in an RV?
>
>
> > > > I'm planning on the Infinity stick grip, with starter switch on the
> > > > grip. I plan to have a Start Enable switch on the instrument panel,
> > > > in series with the switch on the grip. That will protect against
> > > > inadvertent activation of the start switch in flight.
>
> > I don't understand. If you need to reach for a switch on the panel, why
> not
> > just use the ignition switch in the first place?
>
> Engine start is one of the few times in an RV that one needs three hands.
>
> 1 The stick should be held full aft
> 2 The throttle should have your other hand on it
> 3 Then you need to engage the electric starter motor
>
> The switch on the panel is an on/off toggle in series with a momentary
push
> button on the joystick. Now the pilot can start with just two hands. The
> disadvantage of a momentary button on the stick is inadvertent activation.
> Having the toggle on the panel to activate the push button joystick switch
> eliminates this potential problem. Simply turn off the toggle once the
> engine is running.
>
> This is not the way I'm doing it but that doesn't mean I don't like it, I
> just prefer a different way. I will change my whole gameplan if Infinity
> puts out their throttle quadrant before it is too late for me. Then I will
> have engine start on the throttle.
>
> Regards,
> Norman Hunger
> RV6A Delta BC
> Now researching Whirlwind Propellers
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Watson" <terrywatson3(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: High Tech Throttle Quadrant |
Norman,
I have this really nice Saitek X35T game controller throttle quadrant I
bought a year or so ago with the idea of adapting the grip to the throttle
on my 8A. The grip is really excellent, and it has maybe 9 or 10 switches -
rocker, dial, slide, and push button on it. It is quite large and about as
comfortable as you could want, but it looks like the grip may be a little
too big to replace the handle on the throttle quadrant from Van's. If it is
too big, I might use it as a pattern to make a wooden one, maybe with a
slide switch for the flaps where my thumb will be.
Terry
RV-8A completing fuselage
Seattle
----- Original Message -----
From: "Norman" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca>
Subject: RV-List: High Tech Throttle Quadrant
>
> The next person that invests some money into a plastic mold to make a
> high quality throttle quadrant with switches for other functions will
> instantly have a cool little business. The home builder market is bigger
> than ever. We are ripe for innovative products.
>
> Norman Hunger
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Meketa" <acgm(at)gvtc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: HOTAS in an RV? |
An experienced taildragger pilot starts the engine with the stick back under
almost all conditions. He also uses proper aileron/elevator/rudder/brake
inputs for wind conditions while standing, during taxi, and on the landing
and takoff roll. The stick/yoke and rudder inputs are never just left
alone. Sometimes maybe relaxed, but never left alone and forgotten.
I have a starter button on the grip with an enable/crank switch on the panel
for just this reason.
George Meketa, RV8 (finishing) and Cessna 140
> Seems like alot of steps when you hand has to go to the panel anyway.
Also,
> how often do you use the stick when taxiing? Excuse my ignorance, I'm a
> sissy nose wheel type, so I don't get the stick in the hand thing when you
> are starting. What does having you hand on the stick during start up
> accomplish? My hand doesn't touch the stick until I do the run up. Long
> after the engine was started.
>
> Paul Besing
> RV-6A N197AB Arizona
> http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
> Flying
> Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
> http://www.kitlog.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Norman" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: MT Prop MTV-12-B/183-59 |
> One thing is for sure your wallet will be lighter, especially after you
> spend another $2,000.00 for shipping from Germany.
> I'm not guessing at the shipping cost, $2000.00 is what I was quoted by
Tom
> Green yesterday.
> Garry "Casper"
I guess I should add that MT quoted me $200 USD for shipping from Germany to
North America. You should buy them factory direct if Van is charging $2000
but I think rather that some one made a typo.
Norman Hunger
RV6A Delta BC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terence Gannon" <tgannon(at)stoneboat.com> |
| Subject: | Detail Freak Seeks Sheet Metal God |
Given the 'Listers have NEVER failed to come up with the answer to even the
most obscure question, here's a stumper. I'm working on the FL-606B, which
is the large bracket that is parallel to the root rib that is part of the
flap actuator assembly. The 7/8" that extends beyond the flap spar is bent
so as to mate with the 90 degree bracket that is attached to the flap spar
itself. I measured that angle (from the drawing) at approximately (!) 5.2
degrees. Now here's the question -- using a pretty decent little bending
brake that I made, how much PAST 5.2 degrees do I want to bend the part in
order for the RESULTING bend to be 5.2 degrees? The part is made of 0.125
2024-T3, and I'm assuming that somewhere out there, there is a formula or
something for this kind of thing.
I know it seems kinda silly, but half the fun is getting it right, and
learning something in the process, right? Thanks folks, in
advance...cheers...
Terry in Calgary
RV-6 S/N 24414
"FL-606B Bend"
PS (unrelated) -- if Dennis Voth is on the list, please drop me a line, off
list...thanx...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Norman" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: MT Prop MTV-12-B/183-59 |
> i don't think it was a typo,
> they quoted me 1950.oo about 6 months ago for shipping.
Then I must recommend that anyone considering an MT prop buy direct from the
factory in Germany. My quote came in yesterday at $200 USD for shipping.
Norman Hunger
RV6A Delta BC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Starn" <jhstarn(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: HOTAS in an RV? |
We, Gummibear & I, talked a long time about how to keep his feet on the
brakes, left hand on mixture/throttle/prop quardrant, right hand on the
starter (button/key) while starting the IO540 up front without having the
prop strike the ground. We also fly in a Champ and have no problem keeping
its nose off the pavement. The HRII Rocket, and to a lesser degree the
RV-3,-4,-6 &-8 can start with a "start" and one needs all the help possible
to keep the tail down. Full aft stick is (IMHSHO) not an option but rather a
requirement.
We also have installed a dash mounted switch that will de-activate the
start button on the stick once the engine is running. It was our belief that
the better way to keep equal pressure on the brakes and rudder was NOT to
try and clamp the stick 'tween ones upper legs at the same time. We went
thru two contactors to keep the stick starter switch and its wires to a
smaller size. Fitting spinner and doing taxi tests, fly time is getting
closer. KABONG
----- Original Message -----
From: Paul Besing <azpilot(at)extremezone.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: HOTAS in an RV?
>
> Seems like alot of steps when you hand has to go to the panel anyway.
Also,
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Christie" <billc(at)dancris.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Loose nuts on fuel pick-ups.....Rvator comment |
Doug,
I used more than a dab on this area. I don't want to have to pull the plate
to fix this. The joints outside have the paint line across the joint for a
quick visual check.
Bill Christie, Phoenix, RV8A
----- Original Message -----
From: "Doug Gray" <douggray(at)ihug.com.au>
Subject: RV-List: Loose nuts on fuel pick-ups.....Rvator comment
>
> According to the RVator I received today there is a possibility that the
> 'B' nuts on the fuel pickups can work loose. These are the AN fittings
> internal to the fuel tank attaching the pickup tubes to the access
> plate.
>
> I am not surprised with this comment and wonder how widespread this
> issue actually is.
>
> Firstly, I know that these AN fittings should not be assembled with any
> locking or sealing compound. However given the inaccessibility of these
> fittings I am considering breaking this rule just to be sure that they
> will not leak air at some point in the future.
>
> My thoughts on the matter is that the near pure aluminium fuel lines
> would over time work loose due to 'cold creep' alone let alone any
> vibration. 'Cold creep' is a common problem with soft alloys and is
> more often encountered with soldered joints placed under mechanical
> stress. The Al is soft and might just be the reason for this
> observation by Vans.
>
> I have noted a lot of RV-List discussion over the years concerning
> inexplicable fluctuations in fuel pressure. Air leaks within the fuel
> system such as at this fitting may cause such fluctuations. The RVator
> talks of fuel starvation, I would expect the slightest air leak to
> create fluctuations. Try using a drinking straw with the pin prick near
> the top.
>
> Has anyone else added a dob of Proseal to these 'just to be sure'?
>
> Can anyone correlate fluctuating fuel pressure symptoms with these nuts
> working loose?
>
> Doug Gray
> RV-6 Wings done...fuel tank access covers still not finally fitted.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Pardue" <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net> |
| Subject: | Re: MT Prop MTV-12-B/183-59 |
>
> i don't think it was a typo,
> they quoted me 1950.oo about 6 months ago for shipping.
>
If this is correct it is hard to understand.
I am in the process of having an entire aircraft shipped from Poland, which
is more expensive than shipping from Germany. It will be shipped in a
container that will not be shared with anything else. The cost, to Houston,
including a broker and insurance will be about $2,500.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dag adamson <dag_adamson(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Scuffing on skins will go unnoticed with paint - right? |
All-
I am finally finishing up the tail and only now
discovered how nice it would have looked if I had used
tape over the rivet set or placed tape temporarily on
the skin. (I did the last few rivets with tape!) They
aren't smiley's but just scuff marks from the rivet
set. I run my hand over them and look down the edge
and can't see damage to the skins.
Will my professional prime and paint job or putty get
rid of these marks?
I am starting to get the nit picky bug. Some
additional words of encouragement - but the truth
would be appreciated.
Thanks
Dag
====
*****************
Dag Adamson
617 513 1182
Natick, MA
*****************
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Helms" <jhelms(at)i1.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Insurance Question - Why can't I shop for price ??? |
As I said before, you are never "locked out" as you put it. All you have to
do if you do not like your agent you are dealing with is sign a letter. Any
other agent can help you with the wording.
JT
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Berryhill" <berryhill1911(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Insurance Question - Why can't I shop for price ???
>
>Your agent IS SHOPPING FOR YOU. That is what you pay them to do. There
>are
>only about 6 insurance companies out there that are competitive in the
>light
>aircraft market. When your agent offers you a quote, if he only gives you
>one, then you should ask him about the other markets. (In most cases,
>he/she should have checked some others for you.)
I guess that is ok if you already have an agent but most first-time
builders/owners don't have an agent yet. You try to shop for agents but you
are effectively locked-out by the first one that gives you a quote. It just
smacks of price fixing and it doesn't seem to exist in any other form of
insurance.
Dave Berryhill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Helms" <jhelms(at)i1.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Insurance Question - Why can't I shop for price ??? |
Forgot to say that the quotes will remain the same when you switch agents.
JT
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Berryhill" <berryhill1911(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Insurance Question - Why can't I shop for price ???
>
>Your agent IS SHOPPING FOR YOU. That is what you pay them to do. There
>are
>only about 6 insurance companies out there that are competitive in the
>light
>aircraft market. When your agent offers you a quote, if he only gives you
>one, then you should ask him about the other markets. (In most cases,
>he/she should have checked some others for you.)
I guess that is ok if you already have an agent but most first-time
builders/owners don't have an agent yet. You try to shop for agents but you
are effectively locked-out by the first one that gives you a quote. It just
smacks of price fixing and it doesn't seem to exist in any other form of
insurance.
Dave Berryhill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Calvert" <rv6bldr(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Scuffing on skins will go unnoticed with paint - right? |
Dag,
Continue to use masking tape on your flat rivet sets. I use duct tape on my
universal head rivet sets. Makes a big difference. Also, make sure you are
not using too much air pressure. Hold the rivet sets square to the surface.
If you are going to paint, the WHOLE plane is going to get scuffed up so
don't worry about scuffing. The dings can be filled.
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok -6
----- Original Message -----
From: dag adamson <dag_adamson(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: RV-List: Scuffing on skins will go unnoticed with paint - right?
>
> All-
>
> I am finally finishing up the tail and only now
> discovered how nice it would have looked if I had used
> tape over the rivet set or placed tape temporarily on
> the skin. (I did the last few rivets with tape!) They
> aren't smiley's but just scuff marks from the rivet
> set. I run my hand over them and look down the edge
> and can't see damage to the skins.
>
> Will my professional prime and paint job or putty get
> rid of these marks?
>
> I am starting to get the nit picky bug. Some
> additional words of encouragement - but the truth
> would be appreciated.
>
> Thanks
> Dag
>
>
> ====
> *****************
> Dag Adamson
> 617 513 1182
> Natick, MA
> *****************
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Scuffing on skins will go unnoticed with paint - right? |
dag adamson wrote:
>
>
> All-
>
> I am finally finishing up the tail and only now
> discovered how nice it would have looked if I had used
> tape over the rivet set or placed tape temporarily on
> the skin. (I did the last few rivets with tape!) They
> aren't smiley's but just scuff marks from the rivet
> set. I run my hand over them and look down the edge
> and can't see damage to the skins.
>
> Will my professional prime and paint job or putty get
> rid of these marks?
Yes.
No need to waste time with tape, saving the plastic film, etc since none
of the scuffing and scratches will show after you prep the plane for
paint.
Sam Buchanan (RV-6)
"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: HOTAS in an RV? |
Sorry, I was responding to the reasons whomever needed to have the start
switch on the stick. I didn't mean to impugn anyone just to point out that
there are many, many taildraggers that are safely started with only two
hands and no stick switch.
Cy Galley - Bellanca Champion Club
Newsletter Editor & EAA TC
www.bellanca-championclub.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Norman" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca>
Subject: Re: RV-List: HOTAS in an RV?
Cy, you are miss quoting me. I said I wasn't going to do this and I don't
have a taildragger. Perhaps you are responding to some one else's post. I
was merely clarifying the reason that a builder would go this route. I
clearly say in my last paragraph that I am not doing this and never do I
claim to give advice on starting a taildragger.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org>
Subject: Re: RV-List: HOTAS in an RV?
>
> Your ideas about starting a Tail Dragger are unusual. You can eliminate
the
> hands on stick by merely pulling back and hold it there with your legs, If
> you feel that is necessary.
>
> But I have a taildragger and unless you start it at full throttle, I
haven't
> found it necessary to hold full aft stick. After the engine catches, one
can
> easily move a hand from the starter to the controls. The very action of
> pulling back, enhances the hold down of the tail.
>
> I feel you are adding extra complexity and failure points when none is
> needed. But what do I know? I have only been flying taildraggers for 30
> years.
>
> Cy Galley - Bellanca Champion Club
> Newsletter Editor & EAA TC
> www.bellanca-championclub.com
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Norman" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca>
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: HOTAS in an RV?
>
>
> > > > I'm planning on the Infinity stick grip, with starter switch on the
> > > > grip. I plan to have a Start Enable switch on the instrument panel,
> > > > in series with the switch on the grip. That will protect against
> > > > inadvertent activation of the start switch in flight.
>
> > I don't understand. If you need to reach for a switch on the panel, why
> not
> > just use the ignition switch in the first place?
>
> Engine start is one of the few times in an RV that one needs three hands.
>
> 1 The stick should be held full aft
> 2 The throttle should have your other hand on it
> 3 Then you need to engage the electric starter motor
>
> The switch on the panel is an on/off toggle in series with a momentary
push
> button on the joystick. Now the pilot can start with just two hands. The
> disadvantage of a momentary button on the stick is inadvertent activation.
> Having the toggle on the panel to activate the push button joystick switch
> eliminates this potential problem. Simply turn off the toggle once the
> engine is running.
>
> This is not the way I'm doing it but that doesn't mean I don't like it, I
> just prefer a different way. I will change my whole gameplan if Infinity
> puts out their throttle quadrant before it is too late for me. Then I will
> have engine start on the throttle.
>
> Regards,
> Norman Hunger
> RV6A Delta BC
> Now researching Whirlwind Propellers
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terence Gannon" <tgannon(at)stoneboat.com> |
| Subject: | Detail Freak Seeks Sheet Metal God |
>Now if you're REALLY a detail freak, don't forget to bend the bottom flange
of
>the 606-C to match the dihedral cut on the end of the spar!
I was getting to that...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "d. wayne stiles" <dwstiles(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Affordable turbine Power |
Jack, go to <<<>>
We saw it at Oshkosh too, liked it, and both my buddy and I joined the $100
hat club. I'm really surprised at the lack of public reaction to it. All
the Alt/ Power people are yammering about Diesels and convertd auto engines.
I don't know what the chances of it really working out are but the idea
seems perfect for the RV-7 we hope to start next year. We had been looking
a the various Subaru and Mazda systems but none of them have really
developed anything in the 200-220 hp range. The turbine is so much simpler
with so many fewer parts and pieces to go sour. Lots of excellent concepts
never make it to market, for lots of reasons. but this one was worth a small
gamble for us. By the time we're ready for an engine, hopefully they'll be
too, with all testing done and several flying. If it's not a go we'll
probably wind up using that new do-it-youself Lycosaur-a-like. I'm kind of
curious though, about how the insurance and plane construction financing
people react to RV's with alternate power. systems. Has anyone had
experience in this area? wayne stiles
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jim jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Scuffing on skins will go unnoticed with paint - right? |
Right Dag,
Not to worry. The finish prep. and paint will "rid the sins".
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "dag adamson" <dag_adamson(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: RV-List: Scuffing on skins will go unnoticed with paint - right?
>
> All-
>
> I am finally finishing up the tail and only now
> discovered how nice it would have looked if I had used
> tape over the rivet set or placed tape temporarily on
> the skin. (I did the last few rivets with tape!) They
> aren't smiley's but just scuff marks from the rivet
> set. I run my hand over them and look down the edge
> and can't see damage to the skins.
>
> Will my professional prime and paint job or putty get
> rid of these marks?
>
> I am starting to get the nit picky bug. Some
> additional words of encouragement - but the truth
> would be appreciated.
>
> Thanks
> Dag
>
>
> ====
> *****************
> Dag Adamson
> 617 513 1182
> Natick, MA
> *****************
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "KostaLewis" <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
| Subject: | Re: HOTAS in an RV? |
> Sorry, I was responding to the reasons whomever needed to have the start
> switch on the stick. I didn't mean to impugn anyone just to point out
that
> there are many, many taildraggers that are safely started with only two
> hands and no stick switch.
Gad; this could turn into another online war like the pr*mer war, or tail
wheel vs nose gear.
The following is just an OPINION.
I have over 30 years in a J-3 Cub that is hand proped while standing behind
the prop with NO hand on the stick. Never a problem.
In starting the -4, except in a gusty wind situation one does NOT have to
have the stick held full aft. If you start at full throttle, maybe so, but
it would take a LOT of throttle and nearly a full forward stick to get a
prop strike out of a three point start. That would be an out of control
situation, anyway. You don't start at full throttle. A stick in neutral or
thereabouts, which is where it will naturally go as the engine starts, may
cause the tail to raise with a LOT of throttle, but not cause a prop strike.
You would not intentionally have that much throttle in a start up anyway.
And, if you did, you would instantly respond because your hand is on the
Throttle, not the stick. How do I know all this? Part of my flight testing
invloved ground RPM trials to lift the tail at different back seat weights.
My preflight mag check has never been done with the stick in anything other
than neutral, run at 1600 RPM with no problem in over 550 hours, wind or
calm. (None recently, but that is another story.) I think the only time I
had to hold the stick with my knees was to keep the ailerons from flopping
around in a wind.
I have an Infinity stick grip which I HIGHLY recommend as it is functional
and very comfortable, and has all the switches you will ever need,
eliminating having to put switches on the throttle. I would definitely NOT
have the starter on the stick for several reasons: you need to have your
hand on the trottle and the starter switch while starting. If you have a
stick mounted switch that has an over-ride switch on the panel, how are you
going to manipulate the throttle? Your hand needs to be on the lever that
controls the go juice. The circutry that includes an over-ride switch on
the panel or somewhere would also introduce another switch that could fail,
leaving you to hand prop your airplane. If it was a direct switch on the
stick to the starter, you will be replacing your ring gear and starter
because I almost guarntee you will be punching that stick switch while
flying. Why risk that?
Another topic: throttle switches. I'm not sure I would like any switches
there. Yeah, it would look cool, but not very practical. In the -4 it would
need to be a large handle, which would stick way out. More room in the -8,
but still clunky. My throttle quadrant has a shelf on which my arm rests
(highly recommended) and movement of the trottle is usually with my thumb
and forefinger holding the throttle knob and lever. I have never grabbed a
"fist full of throttle", fighter style. It is a light touch, even at
takeoff. If there was a switch somewhere, it would not be in a place your
hand would naturally be while flying. You would have to move your hand from
the normal position to use the switch. If you have to reach for the switch,
why put in on the throttle. It is also a lever that moves in a small arc,
introducing a lot of movement in the wiring. If the swiches are on the
control stick, your hand is always there, and very little movement is needed
to punch a switch. Did I mention I really liked the Infinity stick? Not to
mention it looks pretty cool.
IMVHO, of course.
Michael
RV-4 N232 Suzie Q
STILL not flying. ECB airspace sucks. IMHO again.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: MT Prop MTV-12-B/183-59 |
| From: | Denis Walsh <deniswalsh(at)earthlink.net> |
on 10/19/01 22:46, ABAYMAN(at)aol.com at ABAYMAN(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
>> ground clearance advantage if it is less
>> than 72 inches, which by the way doesn't give much ground clearance in a 6A
>> IMHO.
>
>
> you saying i'm going to have a ground clearance problem with mt 76 inch prop
> on my 6a?
>
> scott
> tampa
>
> prop is still 8 inches from the ground
>
>
No, that is not what I am saying. Neither am I saying your prop is ugly.
If you are concerned about your prop length in your application I strongly
suggest you call Tom Green and ask him.
Denis
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: MT Prop MTV-12-B/183-59 |
Norm,
Tom Green told me about 5 months ago that the shipping on MT props was about
$1500. When I talked to him the other day he said that the shipping was now up
to around $2,000. Pretty hard to have a typo during two separate conversations,
unless of coarse you mean that the quote you got from MT was a typo. Also, if
the Whirlwind works out, repairs and overhauls are done in California, not
Germany. That means less shipping cost, faster repair turn around and much less
expensive telephone charges. The main issue with the particular Whirlwind prop
I
will be testing is it's suitability for RVs, as there have been a bunch of the
aerobatic props used. However they have a much stronger hub and blade design for
unlimited aero.
Garry "Casper"
Norman wrote:
>
> > One thing is for sure your wallet will be lighter, especially after you
> > spend another $2,000.00 for shipping from Germany.
> > I'm not guessing at the shipping cost, $2000.00 is what I was quoted by
> Tom
> > Green yesterday.
> > Garry "Casper"
>
> I guess I should add that MT quoted me $200 USD for shipping from Germany to
> North America. You should buy them factory direct if Van is charging $2000
> but I think rather that some one made a typo.
>
> Norman Hunger
> RV6A Delta BC
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gene(at)nvaircraft.com |
| Subject: | RV9a fuselage final width |
In reference to RV-9 panel fit. Thanks a bunch, I am almost at that point. I would
have had that all done and waiting for the finish kit.
Gene 90296 Fuse
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Builder's Bookstore" <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: MT Prop MTV-12-B/183-59 |
> Tom Green told me a that the shipping on MT props was about
> $1500. When I talked to him the other day he said that the shipping was now up
to
> around $2,000.
A 50 pound package delivered by 3 day service from Germany to all western states
by
UPS is $233. Someone here has their numbers off.
Andy
Builder's Bookstore
http://buildersbooks.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Todd's Canopies |
| From: | czechsix(at)juno.com |
Guys, I was the one who organized the last group order for RV-8 canopies
from Todd Silver. Sorry to hear about shipping problems with at least
one buyer. As for me, I am very happy with my canopy. It was delivered
to my door with no problems, no damage to the crate, and looks very nice.
Comes with polish and everything. Highly recommended.
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A fuselage.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV-8 front stick position |
| From: | czechsix(at)juno.com |
Guys,
A couple RV-8 builders I know, including Oshkosh Grand Champion Lyle
Hefel, have put a double-bend in the front control stick of the -8 to get
the stick grip back closer to the pilot. If it's bent back far enough,
this also allows the stick to be longer because the full forward position
doesn't go underneath the panel.
I'm wondering if those of you who have flying or almost complete -8's
have any comments regarding the position of the control stick as designed
by Van (straight and unmodified that is). Do you find that you have to
reach or stretch your arm out excessively to reach the stick during
normal flight? During stall recovery? Can you rest your arm on your leg
during cruise and still hold the stick or do you have to keep your arm
stretched out during the whole flight to hold onto it? Just trying to
decide whether to modify or leave it alone....
Thanks,
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ed Holyoke <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | RV6 fuselage twist |
Hi Guys,
I'm fixing to mount the tail feathers on my 6 QB and I discovered that
it can't be leveled correctly because it's twisted. I leveled it side to
side at the forward end of the cockpit rails above where the front wing
spar will go. I then leveled the right side rail fore and aft. If I
check it at the rear end of the rails, the left side is about 3/16"
lower. I checked the height of the longerons at the tail and they're
about 3/16" or so higher and pitched down slightly on the left.
I clamped up the horizontal stab as level as I can get it and the left
side of the forward spar required .097" worth of shims more than the
1/8" that I put on the right(per plan).
I figure, as has been said, that the fuselage is just along for the ride
and that I'll never notice it in flight if I get the wings and tail
parallel and at the proper incidences, but before I drill the stab, I
thought I'd ask around a little.
I'm using a high quality carpenter's level switched end to end and
readings compared, and a water level so I'm pretty confident of the
accuracy of my measurements. I wonder what they're using for jigs in the
Philippines. 3/16" twist in about 2'6" is a lot.
Any ideas out there?
Ed Holyoke
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Watson" <terrywatson3(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: MT Prop MTV-12-B/183-59 |
Page 8 of the fourth issue, 2000 of the RVator has an update on MT props by
Van. In it he says that he ..."discussed the high cost of shipping the
props from Germany to the USA. These charges are particularly onerous for
the bulky 3-blade props. As a result of these discussions, Gerd has offered
a package deal for quantity orders. The bottom line is that the props
arrive at our shop for the same price they would normally be FOB Germany.
The only added cost to the builder would be picking up the prop here at
Van's, or paying truck freight charges from Van's to your location."
There is more to the article and there may well be more recent information,
but I suspect that the high quoted freight prices have more to do with bulk
than weight, just like Jon's seats.
Terry
>
> > Tom Green told me a that the shipping on MT props was about
> > $1500. When I talked to him the other day he said that the shipping was
now up to
> > around $2,000.
>
> A 50 pound package delivered by 3 day service from Germany to all western
states by
> UPS is $233. Someone here has their numbers off.
>
> Andy
> Builder's Bookstore
> http://buildersbooks.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Norman, MD" <jnorman(at)intermapsystems.com> |
| Subject: | MT Prop MTV-12-B/183-59 |
Listers,
A few months back I was looking into MT props. I talked to the "Propeller
Man" who advertises all the time in Trade A Plane. He is in Orlando, FL. I
then went over to his shop (1000's of props!). He told me he is an MT dealer
(and I saw a few of them there), and that he was an authorized repair
shop... and he assured me that we do not have to send a prop back over to
Germany for any work to be done on it.
The prices he quoted me were quite similar to what we are hearing here
(although I cannot remember the exact price). However, I do remember that
he was going to sell me one without having to pay $2k for shipping. We
discussed shipping specifically.
In the end I went with a CS Hartzell, however, before anybody buys one from
Germany, give the Propeller Man a call. He was very pleasant on the phone,
and when I took a tour of his shop. I may be wrong on all of this, but when
it comes to the kind of money we are talking here... its worth the price of
a phone call to find out.
jim
Tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: MT Prop MTV-12-B/183-59 |
In a message dated 10/20/2001 3:28:54 PM Central Daylight Time,
terrywatson3(at)home.com writes:
> Page 8 of the fourth issue, 2000 of the RVator has an update on MT props by
> Van. In it he says that he ..."discussed the high cost of shipping the
> props from Germany to the USA. These charges are particularly onerous for
> the bulky 3-blade props. As a result of these discussions, Gerd has
> offered
> a package deal for quantity orders. The bottom line is that the props
> arrive at our shop for the same price they would normally be FOB Germany.
> The only added cost to the builder would be picking up the prop here at
> Van's, or paying truck freight charges from Van's to your location."
>
> There is more to the article and there may well be more recent information,
> but I suspect that the high quoted freight prices have more to do with bulk
> than weight, just like Jon's seats.
>
> Terry
Bulk, the props are shipped disassembled. Therefore the packaage isnt that
big.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lui" <signco(at)ev1.net> |
Awhile a go someone posted an alternate supplier/source for handheld
radio batteries. I could not find the message in the archives.
I have the Icom IC-A22. I am looking for a replacement battery.
Appreciate your input of a good source.
Thanks,
Luis
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Scuffing on skins will go unnoticed with paint - right? |
Here's a builder's tip: The minute you receive your first kit, before even
doing inventory, take some red scotchbrite or 300 grit sandpaper and make
come big ugly scuff marks in your nice shiny skins. That's basically what
you or your painter is going to do to the whole plane before painting, so
why not get it out of the way now? Then you won't have to worry any more
about keeping your skins all pristine and shiny... :-)
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~300 hrs)
Portland, OR
www.vanshomewing.org
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: HOTAS in an RV? |
I didn't go for the key switch, instead used bat toggles for master/battery,
left ,and right mags. At any rate, you could do the same thing I did with a
three position (i.e. non-starting) type key switch. And that is to wire it
up so that when the right mag is on, the starter is disabled. Serves your
purpose and eliminates a switch. Don't know if the key switches available
provide for you to wire it that way, but if you use toggles for the mags,
you're set, just go with a DPDT on the right mag.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~300 hrs)
Portland, OR
www.vanshomewing.org
________________________________________________________________________________
After first flight with the rv4. It has a left wing heavy flight behavior. I
remember a while back, there was a cure for this by somehow squeezing the
aileron. can anyone explain how to do this?
thank you
dan carley
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Affordable turbine Power |
>
>Jack, go to <<<>>
>We saw it at Oshkosh too, liked it, and both my buddy and I joined the $100
>hat club. I'm really surprised at the lack of public reaction to it. All
>the Alt/ Power people are yammering about Diesels and convertd auto
>engines.
>I don't know what the chances of it really working out are but the idea
>seems perfect for the RV-7 we hope to start next year. We had been looking
>a the various Subaru and Mazda systems but none of them have really
>developed anything in the 200-220 hp range. The turbine is so much simpler
>with so many fewer parts and pieces to go sour. Lots of excellent concepts
>never make it to market, for lots of reasons. but this one was worth a
>small
>gamble for us. By the time we're ready for an engine, hopefully they'll be
>too, with all testing done and several flying. If it's not a go we'll
>probably wind up using that new do-it-youself Lycosaur-a-like. I'm kind of
>curious though, about how the insurance and plane construction financing
>people react to RV's with alternate power. systems. Has anyone had
>experience in this area? wayne stiles
I'm also totally amazed at the quiet reception this project has received. I
for one am totally ready for this kind of engine, and would absolutely
consider one for the RV-10, IF they come up with a version with a higher
horsepower rating. It seemed to me from their website that to get it over
200 hp, you really have to wind up the prop, like up to 3000rpm. Is this a
typical rpm for a turboprop to turn?
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
Lycosaur still chugging away.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | doyal plute <dplute(at)onemain.com> |
Vans plans calls for wiring a shunt in the electrical power cable on
my RV6-A.
To me it just looks like a big link fuse on steroids! Why is it there
and what does it do?
Thanks for any answers: I was an AD in the Navy not an AE so that is
why the maybe dumb? question.
Doyal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 front stick position |
>
>Guys,
>
>A couple RV-8 builders I know, including Oshkosh Grand Champion Lyle
>Hefel, have put a double-bend in the front control stick of the -8 to get
>the stick grip back closer to the pilot. If it's bent back far enough,
>this also allows the stick to be longer because the full forward position
>doesn't go underneath the panel.
>
>I'm wondering if those of you who have flying or almost complete -8's
>have any comments regarding the position of the control stick as designed
>by Van (straight and unmodified that is). Do you find that you have to
>reach or stretch your arm out excessively to reach the stick during
>normal flight? During stall recovery? Can you rest your arm on your leg
>during cruise and still hold the stick or do you have to keep your arm
>stretched out during the whole flight to hold onto it? Just trying to
>decide whether to modify or leave it alone....
>
>Thanks,
>
>--Mark Navratil
Hiya Mark,
I've thought about doing the S bend trick to my front stick, but keep
putting it on the back burner. Too many other pressing needs right now.
I have fairly long arms, (36 shirt sleeve), so I don't have to fully extend
my arm to reach the stick. I can rest my arm on my leg no problem. The
thickness of the seat back cushion will have a large bearing on the overall
ergonomics, so keep that in mind. Recovering the airplane from a stall is
only a matter of unloading the wing a wee bit, and doesn't require a gross
amount of forward stick motion.
For overall comfort, I do think that an S bend would improve the fun factor
of the airplane, but it's certainly not a must-do. I'd say fly it with the
straight stick for a while, then decide if the bend would appeal to you
later. It's MUCH easier to bend it than to straighten it out!
Have fun,
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
259 hrs. Annual almost done.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill VonDane" <n8vd(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | RV-8 front stick position |
Hi Mark...
I just drilled my elevator horns the other day and what I did was install
everything as per the plans, put some big plastic spring clamps on the
elevators and horizontal stab to force them to stay in trail, then I clamped
the torque tube to the elevator horns with a cleco side grip clamp. I then
got in the plane in the seating position I think will be pretty close to
where it will be when all is done to see how the stick would feel in normal
straight and level cruise flight... I think I did pull the stick back
toward me a little so I could rest my arm comfortable on my leg with no
stretching, but not much... After all this, I drilled the elevator horns...
The hole was pretty close to where the plans depicted so I would venture to
say that if done according to plans I would not have had a problem with
it... However, I think I may want to shorten the stick slightly. Right
now, with the Ray Allen grip (basic G101 grip) I have about 1/2" - 1"
clearance under the panel when I push it forward, and I have to raise my
hand slightly above leg level to get it right on the grip. I need to try it
with the grip installed to see if I can still hit the PTT, but I think I
will wait until I have the seat exactly where I want it before I do any
cutting...
All that said, I bet wherever you put it you would get used to it and it
would be no problem... Hope this helps...
-Bill VonDane
Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A - N8VD - Finish
http://vondane.com/rv8a/
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
czechsix(at)juno.com
Subject: RV-List: RV-8 front stick position
Guys,
A couple RV-8 builders I know, including Oshkosh Grand Champion Lyle
Hefel, have put a double-bend in the front control stick of the -8 to get
the stick grip back closer to the pilot. If it's bent back far enough,
this also allows the stick to be longer because the full forward position
doesn't go underneath the panel.
I'm wondering if those of you who have flying or almost complete -8's
have any comments regarding the position of the control stick as designed
by Van (straight and unmodified that is). Do you find that you have to
reach or stretch your arm out excessively to reach the stick during
normal flight? During stall recovery? Can you rest your arm on your leg
during cruise and still hold the stick or do you have to keep your arm
stretched out during the whole flight to hold onto it? Just trying to
decide whether to modify or leave it alone....
Thanks,
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris Good <chrisjgood(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | RV6 fuselage twist |
>
>
>Hi Guys,
>
>I'm fixing to mount the tail feathers on my 6 QB and I discovered that
>it can't be leveled correctly because it's twisted. I leveled it side to
>side at the forward end of the cockpit rails above where the front wing
>spar will go. I then leveled the right side rail fore and aft. If I
>check it at the rear end of the rails, the left side is about 3/16"
>lower. I checked the height of the longerons at the tail and they're
>about 3/16" or so higher and pitched down slightly on the left.
>I clamped up the horizontal stab as level as I can get it and the left
>side of the forward spar required .097" worth of shims more than the
>1/8" that I put on the right(per plan).
>I figure, as has been said, that the fuselage is just along for the ride
>and that I'll never notice it in flight if I get the wings and tail
>parallel and at the proper incidences, but before I drill the stab, I
>thought I'd ask around a little.
>I'm using a high quality carpenter's level switched end to end and
>readings compared, and a water level so I'm pretty confident of the
>accuracy of my measurements. I wonder what they're using for jigs in the
>Philippines. 3/16" twist in about 2'6" is a lot.
>
>Any ideas out there?
>
>Ed Holyoke
Ed,
I had a similar problem with my 6AQB :-(
I ended up drilling out the rivets on the aft deck & fitting a new
deck. Here's my email exchange with Van's. If your's isn't too bad,
shimming might work out. While this was very disappointing & a pain at the
time, it didn't take
long to sort out. Looking back, it was just a small extra step among the
many hundreds from start to finish.
Regards,
Chris Good.
>>Thanks for the delivery of my RV6A-QB kit. I finally got my garage
>>reorganized & the inventory done. Overall, the quality is pretty good,
>but
>>something doesn't look quite right at the aft end of the fuselage.
>>
>>I've got the fuselage levelled across the longerons at the forward end.
>It
>>stays consistently level till aft of the baggage compartment, & then
>twists
>>off so that there's 3/16" difference in longeron height at the end. This
>>is 3/16" in 4" so the angle is very noticable. Vertically, there's 1/2"
>>error on the 12" centerline of the F612 bulkhead, so the whole tailcone is
>>twisted.
>>
>>Also, measuring against the fuselage center line, the F611C HS attachment
>>points are not square. RH is 1/8" aft of LH.
>>
>>What do you advise? I can't see any easy way to rectify the twist, but
>>fixing HS & VS with shims to this extent seems excessive.
>
>We have seen this twist in some of the kits and don't think it is of too
>serious a nature... the horizontal can easily be shimmed that much without
>much problem... the HS-611C's need not be that square either as the
>addition
>of a shim here is also acceptable...... there is a relatively quick
>solution
>to the twist that is simple to accomplish... if the rear deck plate is
>drilled off, the entire fuselage can then be easily twisted to any
>configuration that you like.. then once the deck plate is reattached, it
>firms the fuselage again... if this is done, it must be done before any
>other top skins can be riveted in place. Let me know what you would like
>to
>do... the deck plate could be supplied quickly by us and of course any
>other
>thing needed to get you going....
>
>If you have no experience with riveting, then I would suggest tackling this
>part of the project after say working on the wings and seat bottoms... Tom
>@
>Van's
>
Regards,
Chris Good, http://www.rv.supermatrix.com
West Bend, WI
RV-6A N86CG, 295 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca> |
| Subject: | Single lug anchor nut dimensions? |
I'm hoping someone can compare MS21051-3 and MS21051-4 single lug
anchor nuts (platenuts) and tell me whether the two sizes have the
same spacing between the various holes.
For extra points, let me know if the MS21061-4 floating anchor nut
would have the same spacing between the various holes as a MS21051-3.
I thought an item I'm mounting used AN3 bolts, so I drilled all the
holes for MS21051-3 anchor nuts. But, now I see that I need to use
AN4 bolts. Arrgh!! I'm hoping I can simply drill out the bolt
holes, order a couple of MS21051-4 or MS21061-4 anchor nuts and use
the same rivet holes. If that won't work, then I'll starting
dreaming up Plan B.
Thanks in advance,
Kevin Horton RV-8 (installing engine)
Ottawa, Canada
http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "ciminojim" <ciminojim(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: High Cylinder Head Temps |
John,
I thought you might want to know that I think I solved my CHT
problem
today. I developed an oil leak today after my morning flight...the CHT's
were still very high this morning using higher airspeed climbs. I landed
and checked the baffles...everything looked good. The right mag had a loose
bolt which caused the oil leak so I tightened it up. Cleaned the injectors
and checked everything and went to try it again. Now I had a rough engine
on the right mag. I taxied back and checked the plugs and such and could
not find the problem, so I decided to check the mag timing. To make a long
story short...the right mag was out of time...I re-timed it and took it up
for a test flight right before dark. CHT's never went above 440 and I was
able to get up to over 180mph before I decided to back off. I will try
again tomorrow afternoon and make sure everything is ok.
----- Original Message -----
From: "John & Teresa Huft" <widgeon92L(at)email.msn.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: High Cylinder Head Temps
>
> What were you using for a climb speed? Try a "cruise climb" of 130 mph or
> even more. Is the engine broken in?
>
> John
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of CiminoJim
> To: RV-LIST
> Subject: RV-List: High Cylinder Head Temps
>
>
> On my initial test flight today the cylinder head temps rose to around
> 500 on climb out, on three cylinders, oil temps stayed under 200. It
> was a warm afternoon above 80. The temps dropped as I slowed to enter
> the pattern. I found one baffle seal out of place in the front baffle
> floor. I will fix that and check the rest tomorrow. Does anyone have
> any other ideas for me to check?
>
> Jim Cimino
> RV-8 sn 80039 N7TL Reserved
> http://www.geocities.com/jcimino.geo/
> (570)842-4057
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Emrath" <Emrath(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Todd's Canopies |
How is the optical properties of the canopy, any problems in this area?
Marty in Brentwood TN, RV-6A slider.
----- Original Message -----
From: <czechsix(at)juno.com>
Subject: RV-List: Re: Todd's Canopies
>
> Guys, I was the one who organized the last group order for RV-8 canopies
> from Todd Silver. Sorry to hear about shipping problems with at least
> one buyer. As for me, I am very happy with my canopy. It was delivered
> to my door with no problems, no damage to the crate, and looks very nice.
> Comes with polish and everything. Highly recommended.
>
> --Mark Navratil
> Cedar Rapids, Iowa
> RV-8A fuselage.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Knoll" <tripodcat(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6 fuselage twist |
HGi Ed,
Check the archives. There was something on the list about 1 - 2 yrs ago on the
same topic. Vans was consulted then but I forget the specifics of their response.
Bruce Knoll - RV6A
----- Original Message -----
From: Ed Holyoke
Subject: RE: RV-List: RV6 fuselage twist
Hi Guys,
I'm fixing to mount the tail feathers on my 6 QB and I discovered that
it can't be leveled correctly because it's twisted. I leveled it side to
side at the forward end of the cockpit rails above where the front wing
spar will go. I then leveled the right side rail fore and aft. If I
check it at the rear end of the rails, the left side is about 3/16"
lower. I checked the height of the longerons at the tail and they're
about 3/16" or so higher and pitched down slightly on the left.
I clamped up the horizontal stab as level as I can get it and the left
side of the forward spar required .097" worth of shims more than the
1/8" that I put on the right(per plan).
I figure, as has been said, that the fuselage is just along for the ride
and that I'll never notice it in flight if I get the wings and tail
parallel and at the proper incidences, but before I drill the stab, I
thought I'd ask around a little.
I'm using a high quality carpenter's level switched end to end and
readings compared, and a water level so I'm pretty confident of the
accuracy of my measurements. I wonder what they're using for jigs in the
Philippines. 3/16" twist in about 2'6" is a lot.
Any ideas out there?
Ed Holyoke
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: its ALIVE !!1 |
Dear Listers,
today was a good day in Scotty Land. after 3 years of weekend working, after
6 months since i hung my engine, it breathed life today for the first time.
it did have its moments when i thought it might not happen. i had mounted my
master relay in backwards, thinking that it was a simple set of contacts in
there. i was wrong. the BAT position has to be the battery side since it
feeds power to the relay coil inside. once we fixed that, i had a few minor
wiring gliches, but preoiling, and start up was great. one warning. if you
have a tip up canopy, it comes down pretty hard on ones head when the prop
starts. all i saw were starts and shut it off right away as i didn't know
what had hit me. all together i got hit in the head about 3 or 4 times with
the canopy. someone in back of me kept telling me, i got it , i got it. but
wham smacked in the head again.
had i quess about 20-25 people show up. it was a real good turnout.
everyone i think ate and drank enough, but i still have a ton of hamburger
meat and hotdogs left over. hey maybe i'll have another starting party part
deaux when i have the panel all working in conjuntion with the engine next
weekend. any excuse to have a party.
happy in tampa
scott
sorry for rambling on, but i'm really pumped up right now.
o360 a1a and it runs soooo smooth
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 front stick position |
Ha, glad to see someone else is bothered by this. Putting a double bend in a
new stick exactly as you describe, and for the reasons you describe, is on
my to-do list but I haven't gotten to it yet. So to answer your question,
YES, the normal stick position is not optimum in my estimation. In fact the
rear-seater has better ergonomics with regard to the stick.
If someone has a design they'd like to share I'm sure we'd all appreciate
it.
Randy Lervold
RV-8, #80500, 133 hrs
www.rv-8.com
Home Wing VAF
> A couple RV-8 builders I know, including Oshkosh Grand Champion Lyle
> Hefel, have put a double-bend in the front control stick of the -8 to get
> the stick grip back closer to the pilot. If it's bent back far enough,
> this also allows the stick to be longer because the full forward position
> doesn't go underneath the panel.
>
> I'm wondering if those of you who have flying or almost complete -8's
> have any comments regarding the position of the control stick as designed
> by Van (straight and unmodified that is). Do you find that you have to
> reach or stretch your arm out excessively to reach the stick during
> normal flight? During stall recovery? Can you rest your arm on your leg
> during cruise and still hold the stick or do you have to keep your arm
> stretched out during the whole flight to hold onto it? Just trying to
> decide whether to modify or leave it alone....
>
> Thanks,
>
> --Mark Navratil
> Cedar Rapids, Iowa
> RV-8A fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
> I have the Icom IC-A22. I am looking for a replacement battery.
> Appreciate your input of a good source.
Try www.batteriesamerica.com.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <craigchipley(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Affordable turbine Power |
Brian, most turbines use percent of Total possible RPM, but most
turbines like the Rolls Royce Dart operate in a range from 3,000-15,000 RPM.
The engine they are using is an ex-sundstrand APU unit. The specs should be
easy to come by to see what the normal range is for that unit.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Carter" <jcarter8(at)midsouth.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 front stick position |
Mark,
I do agree that the position of the stick is not ideal. But it doesn't
bother me when I fly the plane, that is, I don't feel like I'm really
reaching forward that much. I notice it more when I'm just sitting in the
seat with my hand on the stick. If you bend the stick, make sure you know
where the top of your seat is - mine is much higher than I would have
guessed.
Jerry Carter
RV-8A
50 hrs
----- Original Message -----
From: <czechsix(at)juno.com>
Subject: RV-List: RV-8 front stick position
>
> Guys,
>
> A couple RV-8 builders I know, including Oshkosh Grand Champion Lyle
> Hefel, have put a double-bend in the front control stick of the -8 to get
> the stick grip back closer to the pilot. If it's bent back far enough,
> this also allows the stick to be longer because the full forward position
> doesn't go underneath the panel.
>
> I'm wondering if those of you who have flying or almost complete -8's
> have any comments regarding the position of the control stick as designed
> by Van (straight and unmodified that is). Do you find that you have to
> reach or stretch your arm out excessively to reach the stick during
> normal flight? During stall recovery? Can you rest your arm on your leg
> during cruise and still hold the stick or do you have to keep your arm
> stretched out during the whole flight to hold onto it? Just trying to
> decide whether to modify or leave it alone....
>
> Thanks,
>
> --Mark Navratil
> Cedar Rapids, Iowa
> RV-8A fuselage
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-List:starting party results |
Dear Listers,
today was a good day in Scotty Land. after 3 years of weekend working, after
6 months since i hung my engine, it breathed life today for the first time.
it did have its moments when i thought it might not happen. i had mounted my
master relay in backwards, thinking that it was a simple set of contacts in
there. i was wrong. the BAT position has to be the battery side since it
feeds power to the relay coil inside. once we fixed that, i had a few minor
wiring gliches, but preoiling, and start up was great. one warning. if you
have a tip up canopy, it comes down pretty hard on ones head when the prop
starts. all i saw were starts and shut it off right away as i didn't know
what had hit me. all together i got hit in the head about 3 or 4 times with
the canopy. someone in back of me kept telling me, i got it , i got it. but
wham smacked in the head again.
had i quess about 20-25 people show up. it was a real good turnout.
everyone i think ate and drank enough, but i still have a ton of hamburger
meat and hotdogs left over. hey maybe i'll have another starting party part
deaux when i have the panel all working in conjuntion with the engine next
weekend. any excuse to have a party.
happy in tampa
scott
sorry for rambling on, but i'm really pumped up right now.
o360 a1a and it runs soooo smooth
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
Take a pair of seaming pliers, put some duct tape on the jaws and **very
lightly*** squeeze the opposite aileron of the heavy wing. Start by
squeezing from the outboard edge about 12" to the inside. The squeeze is so
soft that you probably won't even see any change in the shape of the
trailing edge of the aileron. Go fly, and do it again. As you fly it and
feel you need more, just start squeezing where you left off and move towards
the center.
Paul Besing
RV-6A N197AB Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Flying
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: <DFCPAC(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: heavy wing
After first flight with the rv4. It has a left wing heavy flight behavior. I
remember a while back, there was a cure for this by somehow squeezing the
aileron. can anyone explain how to do this?
thank you
dan carley
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gordon or Marge Comfort" <gcomfo(at)tc3net.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 front stick position |
-----Original Message-----
From: Brian Denk <akroguy(at)hotmail.com>
Date: Sunday, October 21, 2001 2:32 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-8 front stick position
Mark, Brian et al:
The traditional argument against cranking a control stick aft as described
is that it induces a tendency to PIO (pilot induced oscillation) when
vertical motion of the aircraft causes the weight of the pilots arm and hand
adds control input with changing G loads. This would not likely be more
than an annoyance except in case of high speed maneuvering where structural
limits might be approached. Bracing an arm on one's thigh would help and I
can't say that it would be a big problem in an RV. In aft loaded sailplanes
which have very low stick forces it can be a serious problem. Suggest you
consider this when planning such changes.
Gordon Comfort
N363GC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dick Isherwood" <n797rv(at)hotmail.com> |
Doyal,
Your on the right track, not a fuse but a resistor You put the amp meter
leads on either side of it, thne as current goes through this resistor it
develops a voltage diffrence between the two sides, the greater the current
the greater the voltage. And yes the amp meter is really a volt meter in
disguise and it goes up and down with the voltage change. It's so simple
that an AO can understand it! (Navy talk)
Dick RMCS(SS)USN RET.
RV7 N797RV (reserved)
Emp. finished
>From: doyal plute <dplute(at)onemain.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: "rv6-list(at)matronics.com"
>Subject: RV-List: SHUNT?
>Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2001 21:02:42 -0500
>
>
>Vans plans calls for wiring a shunt in the electrical power cable on
>my RV6-A.
>To me it just looks like a big link fuse on steroids! Why is it there
>and what does it do?
>Thanks for any answers: I was an AD in the Navy not an AE so that is
>why the maybe dumb? question.
>Doyal
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | efortner <efortner(at)vnet.net> |
A shunt carries the majority of current around a device such as an amp
meter
that could not handle a large amount of current.
You could take a meter capable of carrying 1 amp and put the proper size
shunt in parallel with the amp meter to make it measure 100 amps instead
of 1 amp.
doyal plute wrote:
>
> Vans plans calls for wiring a shunt in the electrical power cable on
> my RV6-A.
> To me it just looks like a big link fuse on steroids! Why is it there
> and what does it do?
> Thanks for any answers: I was an AD in the Navy not an AE so that is
> why the maybe dumb? question.
> Doyal
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Doyal,
A shunt is really a very precise, very low resistance - resistor. In
this case, it is used to determine the electrical current flow, or draw,
from the battery, by measuring the voltage drop across the shunt. This
is Ohm's Law in one of it's most basic forms: E=IR, where E is the
voltage, I is the current and R is the resistance. This law says the
voltage drop across a resistor is proportional to the product of the
current being drawn through it's resistance.
We know 2 of the three variables when current is running through the
shunt: R and E (by measuring it with a voltmeter). If you solve the
above equation for the unknown value, I, it turns into: I=E/R or the
current through the shunt is directly proportional to the Voltage drop
across it divided by its Resistance. So in reality, your ammeter is
measuring the voltage drop across the shunt and "doing the math" for you
to display the current draw. Hope this helps...
Todd Wenzel
Delafield, WI
RV-8AQB - Fuse (revisiting Electrical Engineering school again ;))
mailto:TWenzel@Heartland-Software.com
-----Original Message-----
From: doyal plute [mailto:dplute(at)onemain.com]
Subject: RV-List: SHUNT?
Vans plans calls for wiring a shunt in the electrical power cable on
my RV6-A.
To me it just looks like a big link fuse on steroids! Why is it there
and what does it do?
Thanks for any answers: I was an AD in the Navy not an AE so that is
why the maybe dumb? question.
Doyal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill VonDane" <n8vd(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | RV-8 front stick position |
Hi Mark...
I just drilled my elevator horns the other day and what I did was install
everything as per the plans, put some big plastic spring clamps on the
elevators and horizontal stab to force them to stay in trail, then I clamped
the torque tube to the elevator horns with a cleco side grip clamp. I then
got in the plane in the seating position I think will be pretty close to
where it will be when all is done to see how the stick would feel in normal
straight and level cruise flight... I think I did pull the stick back
toward me a little so I could rest my arm comfortable on my leg with no
stretching, but not much... After all this, I drilled the elevator horns...
The hole was pretty close to where the plans depicted so I would venture to
say that if done according to plans I would not have had a problem with
it... However, I think I may want to shorten the stick slightly. Right
now, with the Ray Allen grip (basic G101 grip) I have about 1/2" - 1"
clearance under the panel when I push it forward, and I have to raise my
hand slightly above leg level to get it right on the grip. I need to try it
with the grip installed to see if I can still hit the PTT, but I think I
will wait until I have the seat exactly where I want it before I do any
cutting...
All that said, I bet wherever you put it you would get used to it and it
would be no problem... Hope this helps...
-Bill VonDane
Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A - N8VD - Finish
http://vondane.com/rv8a/
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
czechsix(at)juno.com
Subject: RV-List: RV-8 front stick position
Guys,
A couple RV-8 builders I know, including Oshkosh Grand Champion Lyle
Hefel, have put a double-bend in the front control stick of the -8 to get
the stick grip back closer to the pilot. If it's bent back far enough,
this also allows the stick to be longer because the full forward position
doesn't go underneath the panel.
I'm wondering if those of you who have flying or almost complete -8's
have any comments regarding the position of the control stick as designed
by Van (straight and unmodified that is). Do you find that you have to
reach or stretch your arm out excessively to reach the stick during
normal flight? During stall recovery? Can you rest your arm on your leg
during cruise and still hold the stick or do you have to keep your arm
stretched out during the whole flight to hold onto it? Just trying to
decide whether to modify or leave it alone....
Thanks,
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bernie Wurster" <bernie.wurster(at)3web.net> |
Vans plans calls for wiring a shunt in the electrical power cable on
my RV6-A.
To me it just looks like a big link fuse on steroids! Why is it there
and what does it do?
Thanks for any answers: I was an AD in the Navy not an AE so that is
why the maybe dumb? question.
The shunt causes a small voltage drop which is dependant upon the amount
of current flowing from or to the battery. The ammeter is really just a
voltmeter reading the voltage drop and it's polarity. The shunt must be
a very low resistance in order for the voltage drop to be small enough
to not affect the "users" of electrical power with a lower than normal
voltage. It must be big enough to handle all the current passing
through it and not "burn up".
Bernie W.
JUST $9.95/MONTH at http://www.get3web.com/?mkid=emt123
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobby Hester <bhester(at)apex.net> |
Lui wrote:
>
> Awhile a go someone posted an alternate supplier/source for handheld
> radio batteries. I could not find the message in the archives.
> I have the Icom IC-A22. I am looking for a replacement battery.
> Appreciate your input of a good source.
> Thanks,
> Luis
>
Cheif Aircraft has them for $69 http://www.cheifaircraft.com
I bought one from Batteries Plus some time back but don't remember the
cost.
--
Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
Finishing RV7A empannage :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Terra Info Needed |
send me your fax number, i send it to you,
scott
tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John & Teresa Huft" <widgeon92L(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | High Cylinder Head Temps |
Jim, way to go! I will have to put mag timing on the list of possibles next
time.
There is a good lesson here for all of us...By recognizing the problem and
going after it, rather than going into denial and flying anyway, you may
have avoided serious engine damage.
John
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of ciminojim
Subject: Re: RV-List: High Cylinder Head Temps
John,
I thought you might want to know that I think I solved my CHT
problem
today. I developed an oil leak today after my morning flight...the CHT's
were still very high this morning using higher airspeed climbs. I landed
and checked the baffles...everything looked good. The right mag had a loose
bolt which caused the oil leak so I tightened it up. Cleaned the injectors
and checked everything and went to try it again. Now I had a rough engine
on the right mag. I taxied back and checked the plugs and such and could
not find the problem, so I decided to check the mag timing. To make a long
story short...the right mag was out of time...I re-timed it and took it up
for a test flight right before dark. CHT's never went above 440 and I was
able to get up to over 180mph before I decided to back off. I will try
again tomorrow afternoon and make sure everything is ok.
----- Original Message -----
From: "John & Teresa Huft" <widgeon92L(at)email.msn.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: High Cylinder Head Temps
>
> What were you using for a climb speed? Try a "cruise climb" of 130 mph or
> even more. Is the engine broken in?
>
> John
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of CiminoJim
> To: RV-LIST
> Subject: RV-List: High Cylinder Head Temps
>
>
> On my initial test flight today the cylinder head temps rose to around
> 500 on climb out, on three cylinders, oil temps stayed under 200. It
> was a warm afternoon above 80. The temps dropped as I slowed to enter
> the pattern. I found one baffle seal out of place in the front baffle
> floor. I will fix that and check the rest tomorrow. Does anyone have
> any other ideas for me to check?
>
> Jim Cimino
> RV-8 sn 80039 N7TL Reserved
> http://www.geocities.com/jcimino.geo/
> (570)842-4057
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John & Teresa Huft" <widgeon92L(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | MT Prop MTV-12-B/183-59 |
I was one of those who bought MT props last year. Vans said if they could
get a group of 10 together, they could avoid paying shipping costs from
Germany.
I paid $7,635 for a 3 blade MT 72" prop, with spinner and hardware, plus $82
shipping from Oregon to Colorado. It is a thing of beauty, with leading edge
metal pieces, already balanced, etc. It came fully assembled, except the
spinner is in a separate box.
I am sorry I didn't know about Whirl Wind props at the time, I would have
taken a hard look at them.
I still hold a grudge against Hartzell for their last recall, so I wouldn't
consider that prop.
John
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of CW9371(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: MT Prop MTV-12-B/183-59
In a message dated 10/20/2001 3:28:54 PM Central Daylight Time,
terrywatson3(at)home.com writes:
> Page 8 of the fourth issue, 2000 of the RVator has an update on MT props
by
> Van. In it he says that he ..."discussed the high cost of shipping the
> props from Germany to the USA. These charges are particularly onerous for
> the bulky 3-blade props. As a result of these discussions, Gerd has
> offered
> a package deal for quantity orders. The bottom line is that the props
> arrive at our shop for the same price they would normally be FOB Germany.
> The only added cost to the builder would be picking up the prop here at
> Van's, or paying truck freight charges from Van's to your location."
>
> There is more to the article and there may well be more recent
information,
> but I suspect that the high quoted freight prices have more to do with
bulk
> than weight, just like Jon's seats.
>
> Terry
Bulk, the props are shipped disassembled. Therefore the packaage isnt that
big.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Affordable turbine Power |
>
>
> Brian, most turbines use percent of Total possible RPM, but most
>turbines like the Rolls Royce Dart operate in a range from 3,000-15,000
>RPM.
>The engine they are using is an ex-sundstrand APU unit. The specs should be
>easy to come by to see what the normal range is for that unit.
>
Thanks, Craig. I was under the impression that the engine was totally
designed by them, instead of modified from an existing power unit. It still
seems odd, at least from my limited piston-engine-only experience that
spinning a prop faster than 2700 rpm leads to excessive prop tip noise and
loss of efficiency. Although the core engine may be spinning at warp drive
speed, the prop should be pitch adjusted to allow for operation at much
lower rpm. Then there is that gear reduction unit, that does whoknowswhat
to the overall power vs rpm equation.
Man, I need to attend "turbine engines 101" at the local community college.
Even though it's all quite a mystery to me, I want one! The old bar pickup
line, "excuse me darlin, have you seen my jet keys?" would have an entirely
new meaning!
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
turbine dreamin'
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Single lug anchor nut dimensions? |
In a message dated 10/20/01 11:45:47 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
khorton(at)cyberus.ca writes:
<< I'm hoping someone can compare MS21051-3 and MS21051-4 single lug
anchor nuts (platenuts) and tell me whether the two sizes have the
same spacing between the various holes.>>
Kevin-
Yes. There are the same (.344" between holes) per the Skybolt catalog.
<< For extra points, let me know if the MS21061-4 floating anchor nut
would have the same spacing between the various holes as a MS21051-3.>>
No. The 61-4 has .500" between holes as the floating plate needed more edge
distance.
<>
Hoe that this helps to make the call.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV)
vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Frank A. Reed" <rv_6a(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Brake line fracture |
The right brake line on my RV-6A failed at the flare
where it attaches to the brake. Aluminum line. Entire
flare portion broke off the tube when I checked it to
see where the problem was. Examination of the small
flare piece indicates that the original flare may have
been done incorrectly and weakened it at that point.
An IA friend who does my condition inspection thought
that the line should have a flex tube to the brake
from the point where the tube comes out of the gear
leg fairing.
Any thoughts on this? Has anyone else had trouble with
the line at this connection? If it's a weak point I
want to fix it but if it was just a faulty flare the
solution is easier. I've checked the archives and this
particular problem is not mentioned.
Thanks, Frank Reed N89PC Pelham, NH
====
Frank Reed, RV-6A Flying
N89PC O-320/Hartzell
Pelham, New Hampshire
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)earthlink.net> |
I don't know how many of you on this list know or have read about
Ken Brock but he has been very instrumental in experimental aviation
and especially in the gyrocopter end of it. He also manufactured
parts for experimental aircraft. I have followed his work since the
days that I built and flew a gyrocopter in the early 1970s.
rec.aviation.homebuilt newsgroup is reporting this news. This is
another sad loss to the experimental aviation group.
> Ken Brock was killed yesterday when the tailwheel of his T-18 broke on
landing,
> veered off the runway at El Mirage and flipped over. He suffered a
broken
> neck. Marie had minor injuries and got out through the canopy when help
> arrived, which was very soon after the crash.
Jerry Springer
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Weiler" <doug.weiler(at)pressenter.com> |
Fellow Listers:
I plan to fly my RV-4 unpainted. I am beginning to gather a list of high
quality paint shops that hopefully have previously painted RVs. I have
already checked out Central Aviation in Watertown, WI The location is not
that relevant but the Midwest would be ideal.
Can anyone recommend other potential paint shop that do exceptional work?
Thanks
Doug Weiler
Hudson, WI
MN Wing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Wentzell <wntzl(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Selector Mount (RV-6) |
Greetings,
Question in regards to the mounting of the F683A Mount (the
horizontal member) and the 2 F683B Angular supports (vertical members
that attach to the spar). The drawing section E-E on print #32 shows
the 2 angles attached to the 3rd hole from center on both the top and
bottom That puts the top too far apart for the horizontal mount plate.
Seems like it needs to be the 2nd hole from center on the top. That
seems to give the correct spacing, and the correct angle to rivet the
flanges. Am I correct here??
Also, I recall some builders lowering the mount plate so that the
handle does not protude above the level of the top of the spar. Is this
mod worth the extra time & effort to fabricate??
Thanks in advance for your help.
David Wentzell
RV-6 Finishing Stuff
Racine, Wisconsin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: its ALIVE !!1 |
Scott,
Sure is great to see and hear your engine run - it's it!
Congratulations!!
Chuck Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A (22 hrs)
Niantic, CT (Westerly airport)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)peoplepc.com> |
| Subject: | Flap Fit Problem |
I've got a problem and was wondering if anyone else has seen this.
I installed my flap and finished closing up the wing by installing the
top skin last. When trying to mount the flap I had difficulty fitting
everything in place. I realize that the flap is suppose to contact the
top skin but in this case there seemed to be to much interference.
After much pushing and shoving, I got the hinge pin in but and tied to
work the flap up and down. It is VERY tight and will not swing freely.
In fact, it takes quite a bit of effort to move the flap. Additionally,
there is a significant bulge of the trailing edge of the top wing skin
where it comes in contact with the skin.
Clearly something is wrong here. I'm beginning to wonder if I built the
flap wrong by installing the flap spar upside down thereby having the
wrong spar flange with the wrong angle on top. Unfortunately I can't
get my camera to take an acceptable picture of the problem.
I see in the archives where some people have seen to much gap between
the flap and the top skin but nothing about to much interference.
Thanks for any ideas.
Mike Nellis - http://bmnellis.com
Plainfield, IL
RV6 N699BM Reserved
Mounting Control Surfaces
Stinson 108-2 N9666K
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Flap Fit Problem |
mike
i tend to agree with your theroy that you used the spar upsidedown. can you
see the edge of the spar and see if that is what you did? the plans have a
drawing that shows what angle of the 2 angles on the spar that would be on
top. it is the only thing i can think of right off hand that would cause this
bulging. the pin is hard to get in on any rv. in fact the factory suggest you
cut a few eyelets and use 2 pins in from the center like the seat backs. i
didn't do this but if ever i have to remove the flap i will have 1 hell of a
time. let us know what you find.
scott
tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)peoplepc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Flap Fit Problem |
>
> mike
> i tend to agree with your theroy that you used the spar upsidedown. can
you
> see the edge of the spar and see if that is what you did? the plans have a
> drawing that shows what angle of the 2 angles on the spar that would be on
> top.
Yea, I just came up from the basement and it looks like I installed the spar
correctly. It's hard to tell so I took the flap off (worrying that I
wouldn't get it back on by myself). It sure looks correct. I put the flap
on a hard, protected surface and used a little weight to try and bend the
flange a little. I didn't get to agressive but when I went to install the
flap it went on somewhat easier and I was able to install it myself. It
moves a little easier also. Since I don't have any experience with this
installation I don't know if it's right or not. It doesn't seem right that
it shoudl be this tight though.
In my installation, I'm using the two piece hinge pin method.
I think I'm going to finish mounting the second flap then install the top
skin to see if I have the same problem.
Other than some more "encouragement bending" I don't know what else to do.
I'm going to have my buddy Paul come over and have a look at it. He's saved
my but with some good suggestions in the past. Maybe he's got an idea for
this as well.
Mike Nellis - http://bmnellis.com
Plainfield, IL
RV6 N699BM Reserved
Mounting Control Surfaces
Stinson 108-2 N9666K
it is the only thing i can think of right off hand that would cause this
> bulging. the pin is hard to get in on any rv. in fact the factory suggest
you
> cut a few eyelets and use 2 pins in from the center like the seat backs. i
> didn't do this but if ever i have to remove the flap i will have 1 hell of
a
> time. let us know what you find.
> scott
> tampa
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Brake line fracture |
> The right brake line on my RV-6A failed at the flare
> where it attaches to the brake. Aluminum line. Entire
> flare portion broke off the tube when I checked it to
> see where the problem was.
What sort of a loop of tubing was there between the brake cylinder and the
gear leg? This could make all the difference. The brake cylinder needs to
move left/right as well as rotate slightly, and a "service" loop of tubing
needs to be fashioned.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
6A N66AP flying 22 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Streit <wooody98(at)bellsouth.net> |
Gary Zilik wrote:
>
> This has been discussed many times on the list and the consensus is that
> 30 cal. guns are better suited to the RV series. The 50 cal. recoil is
> just a little to harsh on the small RV airframe.
>
> Gary
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | F1 rocket kit still for sale and must sell ASAP |
>
> F1 rocket kit bye Team Rocket Aircraft for SALE
> Kit is partionally finished, excellent workmanship as the work was done by
>
> team rocket as this was to be there show plane.
> Kit includes complete RV8 tail. Just has to be mounted and finished.
> Kit also includes the following
> Ameri king ELT
> Vetterman Stainless exhust
> heat shielding
> team rocket throttle quadrent
> areoflash strobes
> I have pictures that can be emailed to anyone. I have about 35000 into the
>
> kit. I am asking 30,000 or best offer. Please email me or call for details
> on the
> kit. Please make and offer as i must sell this kit.
>
> Chris wilcox, Oshkosh WI
> (920) 858-7561 cell
> (920) 235-1082 work
> cw9371(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Mosley" <mosley(at)sedona.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List: SHUNT? |
Doyle,
I purchase Van's wiring kit and didn't get a shunt, only a #2 awg non
shielded wire.
I just checked my prints and none shows up. I'm using an automotive
alternator with a built in regulator and have experienced no problems.
Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV4-List: heavy wing |
Mr curley some time ago there was a procedure to put the aileron skin or
finished aileron in a break or squeeze with a solid object the trailing edge
to make it more flat but be carefull not to compress so much that it will
cause a crack. avmtlsm(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
Norman wrote:
>
> Sam I was looking at your website an you mention you were thinking about
> it, did you ever decide to put one of these on?
No, Norman, I never installed a targa strip. After getting the canopy
installed, I decided I didn't want the targa strip to interrupt the
nice, clean lines of the canopy. It was a decision based merely on the
aesthetics of the plane, but I have had no regrets on omitting the
strip. I have weather stripping attached to the inside surface of the
canopy where it overlaps the roll bar, and have had no problems with
water intrusions at the split line in the few times the plane has been
left out in the rain. The same can not be said for the deluge of water
that runs behind the panel when the canopy is opened after sitting in
the rain!
Every airplane is a collection of compromises................
Sam Buchanan (RV-6, 325 hrs, and a tip-up fan more than ever!)
"The RV Journal" http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | Mount tail: when? |
I'm at the point in the RV-8 plans that instruct me to mount the empannage,
then remove it and turn the fuse over to do the gear and remaining forward
belly skins.
I'd rather fit the gear and do the belly skins first, then flip the fuse
over and mount the tail permanently. Anyone forsee any problems with this
approach? Have others done it that way too?
Thanks,
Larry Bowen
RV-8 fuse
Email: Larry(at)BowenAero.com
Web: http://BowenAero.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Mount tail: when? |
No problem that way at all, as I recall I did it in that sequence myself.
Randy Lervold
> I'd rather fit the gear and do the belly skins first, then flip the fuse
> over and mount the tail permanently. Anyone forsee any problems with this
> approach? Have others done it that way too?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Larry Bowen
> RV-8 fuse
> Email: Larry(at)BowenAero.com
> Web: http://BowenAero.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Modifying front control stick in the RV-8(A) |
Someone needs to tell Lyle that it is illegal to win a Grand Champion award
and not have a web site with lots of pics and explanations of how he did
things. Of course I'm kidding, but if someone could post a picture somewhere
of Lyle's stick I'd sure appreciate it so I'm not starting from scratch.
Randy Lervold
RV-8, #80500, 133 hrs.
www.rv-8.com
Home Wing VAF
> Mark, Lyle Hefel (my hero) spent years at John Deer in the ergonomics lab.
> If Lyle puts two bends in his control stick, by jinkies I'm going to do it
> too. In fact, I'm using his canopy crank idea, control quadrant idea, and
> any other ideas I can beg, borrow or steal from him. Unfortunately, even
> when I do all those neat things it still won't be anywhere near as nice an
> airplane, but hey--I'm just a ham-fisted thumb-whacking machinist marvel
> wannabe who some year just might have a homebuilt RV-8 that flies pretty
> straight most of the time and makes my cheeks hurt from too much smilin'.
> As for Lyle...
> WE'RE NOT WORTHY! WE'RE NOT WORTHY!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
> > The same can not be said for the deluge of water
> > that runs behind the panel when the canopy is opened after sitting in
> > the rain!
>
> I am planning an elaborate cover between the panel and the sub panel to
send
> the water over the sides. It's another one of my carefully planned delay's
> in getting to the airport! No regrets though, she's mine all mine.......
I struggled with slider vs tip up when I was building, and ultimately went
with the slider. Now that I have some time in it, I feel a little qualified
to comment on my decision. I believe the only operational disadvantage to
the slider is the slightly reduced visibility from the rollover structure
etc.. I personally don't even notice it when I'm flying, it is so much
better than anything else. However, the advantage of the slider in rain is
significant. I used to believe that I wouldn't be flying in rain, but it
was raining when I mounted up for the second flight of the plane (clear a
few miles west of the airport, and the rain ended by the time I took off).
I would not have appreciated the new car's worth of stuff in the panel
getting wet. Anyway, to each their own.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
6A N66AP flying 22 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Flap Fit Problem |
Mike Nellis wrote:
> Clearly something is wrong here. I'm beginning to wonder if I built the
> flap wrong by installing the flap spar upside down thereby having the
> wrong spar flange with the wrong angle on top. Unfortunately I can't
> get my camera to take an acceptable picture of the problem.
Mike,
I can say almost for certain that building it with the spar upside down will
not cause this problem. Yes, I learned the hard way. Ironically, the right
flap, which was built with the upside down spar, is the one which fit
beautifully to the wing on the first try. The one I built correctly
required trimming 3/8 off the bottom skin, which required rebending and
modifying the brace, etc etc, and it still doesn't fit as well as I would
like.
I also cut out 3 inches in the middle of the hinge. It is easy to get the
pins in without the top skins on, but once the wing is skinned, it is much
more difficult, which you probably figured out. The solution I arrived at
is to get another piece of hinge, cut it to about 3 foot pieces of temporary
hinge pin, and insert them into the flap hiinge from both ends (you will
have to drill a hole in the aileron mount to do this.) This is definately a
two person job, but once the hinge pin is in place and the hinge alligned,
then you insert the real pins from the middle, and work the temporary ones
out little by little as you work the real ones in. Once in, I bent the ends
and hooked them around the flap brace.
Jeff Point
-6 fuse bulkheads
Milwaukee WI
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
ACS Products CO
1585 Copper Drive, Lake Havasu City, AZ 86403
(520) 855-8613
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ripsteel(at)edge.net (Mark Phillips) |
| Subject: | 6A fuse drainage |
Howdy List!
He'p me out here- I will be rivetting the rear skins on my fuse in the
next couple of days and am concerned with water drainage from this area.
Is it the majority experience that water will drain FORward or REARward
if it finds it's way inside? What is the preferred location and size
for drain holes, if considered a good idea? (This is nosedragger, mind
you!)
Thanks in advance!
From The PossumWorks in TN
Mark Phillips
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael J. Robbins" <kitfox(at)gte.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Modifying front control stick in the RV-8(A) |
I'd like to know how he bent the stick too. I've talked to a couple of
people who know tube bending and they didn't know how to get two bends so
close in 4130 steel.
Mike Robbins
RV8Q 80591 N88MJ installing panel
----- Original Message -----
From: "Randy Lervold" <randy@rv-8.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Modifying front control stick in the RV-8(A)
>
> Someone needs to tell Lyle that it is illegal to win a Grand Champion
award
> and not have a web site with lots of pics and explanations of how he did
> things. Of course I'm kidding, but if someone could post a picture
somewhere
> of Lyle's stick I'd sure appreciate it so I'm not starting from scratch.
>
> Randy Lervold
> RV-8, #80500, 133 hrs.
> www.rv-8.com
> Home Wing VAF
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV4-List: heavy wing |
Ideally the aileron should be flat all the way back to the trailing edge
bend. We don't always get them straight, and being airfoils they will have
more or less lift depending on the shape, and that will result in one
aileron riding higher than the other. That's about as far as my aerodynamic
knowledge goes on this... :-)
I had a heavy wing initially and put a straightedge on both of them (try
several places down the aileron), and found they were both "puffy". Squeezed
them both to get them straight, and that fixed the probem. Usually you will
find the LIGHT wing to be puffier than the heavy one. Just try to squeeze
out any "puffieness" you find in the aileron that's on the LIGHT wing. If
they're both pretty straight, or you find any concavity, gently tap the
trailing edge (a rubber or plastic mallet works well and usually doesn't
mess up the paint, but be careful!) to push out the concavity.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~300 hrs)
Portland, OR
www.vanshomewing.org
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Bristol <bj034(at)lafn.org> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List: SHUNT? |
The shunt is part of the ammeter. It may be internal or external but,
there IS a shunt if you have an ammeter. However it would not be a part of
the wiring kit from Van's since it's not a part of the normal aircraft
wiring.
Dave
William Mosley wrote:
>
> Doyle,
>
> I purchase Van's wiring kit and didn't get a shunt, only a #2 awg non
> shielded wire.
> I just checked my prints and none shows up. I'm using an automotive
> alternator with a built in regulator and have experienced no problems.
>
> Bill
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaskuss(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Modifying front control stick in the RV-8(A) |
Randy
I can't help you with photos of Lyle's stick. However you can check out the SE
Florida RV Builders site for photos of Danny King's modified rear stick. We also
have AutoCad drawings of Lyle's manual trim wheel setup as well. Go to
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/SEFlaRVbuilders/files/Controls%20%26%20Control%20Surfaces/
to find these files. If anyone has photos or drawings of any of Lyle's other
mods, I'd like to see them. I really like his canopy retraction system.
Charlie Kuss
RV-8A fuselage
Boca Raton, Fl.
>
> Someone needs to tell Lyle that it is illegal to win a Grand Champion award
> and not have a web site with lots of pics and explanations of how he did
> things. Of course I'm kidding, but if someone could post a picture somewhere
> of Lyle's stick I'd sure appreciate it so I'm not starting from scratch.
>
> Randy Lervold
> RV-8, #80500, 133 hrs.
> www.rv-8.com
> Home Wing VAF
>
> > Mark, Lyle Hefel (my hero) spent years at John Deer in the ergonomics lab.
> > If Lyle puts two bends in his control stick, by jinkies I'm going to do it
> > too. In fact, I'm using his canopy crank idea, control quadrant idea, and
> > any other ideas I can beg, borrow or steal from him. Unfortunately, even
> > when I do all those neat things it still won't be anywhere near as nice an
> > airplane, but hey--I'm just a ham-fisted thumb-whacking machinist marvel
> > wannabe who some year just might have a homebuilt RV-8 that flies pretty
> > straight most of the time and makes my cheeks hurt from too much smilin'.
> > As for Lyle...
> > WE'RE NOT WORTHY! WE'RE NOT WORTHY!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard D. Fogerson" <rickf(at)velocitus.net> |
The last RVator I got had an oil separator called a "slime fighter".
Does anyone have experience or knowledge on this piece of equipment. I
had an Aircraft Spruce and Specialty one on an RV-6A that I ended up
throwing away cause it didn't work. I have to say however that I did
not know about putting steel wool inside it at the time. Sure would
like to eliminate the mess on the belly. I have considered running a
line all the way to the tail.
Rick Fogerson
RV-3 empenage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WoodardRod(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | RV-3 Project Update |
Hello Listers,
I'm pretty excited to be making measurable progress after so many years so I
thought I'd give an update.
I bought the empennage to my RV-3 kit from Van's back in April of 1999. It
sat untouched for the better part of 2 years. Earlier this summer, I bit the
bullet and rented a heated hangar at the airport so that I could start
building again... I'm homeless... garageless... domestically challenged...
etc., but that's a whole 'nuther story.
In any case, just this evening I managed to drill the left skin onto the
skeleton of my horizontal stabilizer. So far so good. Edge distances are
sufficient, no bent over rivets so far. The dimensions are working out.
Parts, parts and more parts have been fabricated.
I don't want to sound like one of those early -6 or -4 builders who whined to
the RV-8 crowd when the -8's first came out, but folks building an RV-3 is
waaaay different than building an -8. I haven't been keeping track of my
hours, but I'd guestimate that I've got as many hours into my -3 HS to this
point as I had in building the entire RV-8 empennage kit, minus fiberglass.
I'm not complaining. I don't have the funds to go much faster with this
project. I do, however, have tons of time. This airline pilot bit is the best
job in the world... current events not withstanding. :-(
Best regards to all,
Rod Woodard
Ft. Collins, Colorado
RV-3 #11339 in progress
RV-3 N99RV sold 1/00
RV-8 #80033 kit sold 9/98
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | 6A fuse drainage |
Hello Mark and all,
I have about 10 hours on my RV-6A now. I found that the water in the
fuselage drains aft, eventually leaking out through the small hole in the
very rear where the tie-down ring is bolted on. It doesn't drain while
parked on the ground, but will blow out in the fine mist during flight. By
the time the water gets back there it discolored and leaves a very
interesting shade of brown on the bottom of the rudder. Made me think that I
had a leaky fuel tank in the tail cone when I first saw it.
I did not drill drain holes in the bottom of the fuselage, but have added it
to my list of things to do. The holes should go just forward of each
bulkhead. The old timers at the airport say that you should put a small
length of safety wire through the drain hole and let the wire swing and buzz
around in the breeze. The wire looks crummy but will keep the drain hole
open in service.
Steve Soule
Huntington, Vermont
N227RV
-----Original Message-----
He'p me out here- I will be rivetting the rear skins on my
fuse in the
next couple of days and am concerned with water drainage
from this area.
Is it the majority experience that water will drain FORward
or REARward
if it finds it's way inside? What is the preferred location
and size
for drain holes, if considered a good idea? (This is
nosedragger, mind
you!)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Bower" <rvbuilder(at)hotmail.com> |
As soon as I saw Ken's name on the posting, I knew something bad had
happened. I know Ken and Marie personally, because my mother worked for
them all during the '70s and '80s until she retired. Every time I went to
Oshkosh I got to look them up and spend a few minutes in pleasant
conversation. Very nice people, and a credit to the homebuilding community.
I called my parents just as soon as I read the post and let them know. We
are in mourning. Jerry, thank you for spreading the news.
Jim Bower
St. Louis, MO
RV-6A N143DJ
Wings (Fuselage parts inventoried and waiting)
>From: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)earthlink.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Ken Brock
>Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2001 11:12:14 -0700
>
>
>I don't know how many of you on this list know or have read about
>Ken Brock but he has been very instrumental in experimental aviation
>and especially in the gyrocopter end of it. He also manufactured
>parts for experimental aircraft. I have followed his work since the
>days that I built and flew a gyrocopter in the early 1970s.
>
>rec.aviation.homebuilt newsgroup is reporting this news. This is
>another sad loss to the experimental aviation group.
>
>
> > Ken Brock was killed yesterday when the tailwheel of his T-18 broke on
>landing,
> > veered off the runway at El Mirage and flipped over. He suffered a
>broken
> > neck. Marie had minor injuries and got out through the canopy when help
> > arrived, which was very soon after the crash.
>
>
>Jerry Springer
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bvondane(at)cso.atmel.com> |
I remember hearing something about another guy that makes exhaust for
RV's... Used to work for Vetterman of something... Anybody have this
info?
Thanks...
-Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chuck Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> |
| Subject: | Any RV-4's flying with a 70" prop?? |
Hi guys (and Gals),
I'm thinking of swinging a 70" diameter propeller on one of my RV-4's.
It looks like it will stay clear, even on nose low landings. Up til now
I've only swung 68" props on my 4's. Anyone had a "Near Death" experience
or a "Lawn Mover" type accident by swing something more than 68" ??? What
diameter limit is un-acceptable? Thanks,
Chuck
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Lueder" <Blueder(at)SUPERIORAIRPARTS.COM> |
10/22/2001 08:24:48 AM
Jim,
The Champion REM37BY is approved to be used in the O320A & E series
engines. It was originally developed to be used in the O235 series engines
where there had been excessive lead fouling. You'll see the reach is the
same but the plug is designed to prevent fouling. Refer to Champion
application guide AV-12 ( 9x12 application guide) or the AV-14 ( 4x6 tool
box size guide) for more information.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Textor" <jack(at)IaJobs.com> |
| Subject: | Affordable turbine Power |
Brian,
Looks like a great turbine to me, hopefully they will continue moving ahead.
Besides the increased HP, reliability, etc, there should be less vibration.
The only down side I can figure is the "stench" of Jet A. It doesn't appear
they have made any changes to their web site since OSH. I was hoping to
find some estimates on fuel burn and HP at the higher altitudes.
Thanks for the thoughts,
Jack
RV8, stuck on wings
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Brian Denk
Subject: Re: RV-List: Affordable turbine Power
>
>Jack, go to <<<>>
>We saw it at Oshkosh too, liked it, and both my buddy and I joined the $100
>hat club. I'm really surprised at the lack of public reaction to it. All
>the Alt/ Power people are yammering about Diesels and convertd auto
>engines.
>I don't know what the chances of it really working out are but the idea
>seems perfect for the RV-7 we hope to start next year. We had been looking
>a the various Subaru and Mazda systems but none of them have really
>developed anything in the 200-220 hp range. The turbine is so much simpler
>with so many fewer parts and pieces to go sour. Lots of excellent concepts
>never make it to market, for lots of reasons. but this one was worth a
>small
>gamble for us. By the time we're ready for an engine, hopefully they'll be
>too, with all testing done and several flying. If it's not a go we'll
>probably wind up using that new do-it-youself Lycosaur-a-like. I'm kind of
>curious though, about how the insurance and plane construction financing
>people react to RV's with alternate power. systems. Has anyone had
>experience in this area? wayne stiles
I'm also totally amazed at the quiet reception this project has received. I
for one am totally ready for this kind of engine, and would absolutely
consider one for the RV-10, IF they come up with a version with a higher
horsepower rating. It seemed to me from their website that to get it over
200 hp, you really have to wind up the prop, like up to 3000rpm. Is this a
typical rpm for a turboprop to turn?
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
Lycosaur still chugging away.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "rickjory" <rickjory(at)msn.com> |
Bill . . . I could probably find this out in that the guy you may be talking
about is local. Having said this, I didn't think they had a version
configured for the 8 or 8A.
Rick Jory
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill VonDane <bvondane(at)cso.atmel.com>
Subject: RV-List: Exhaust...
>
> I remember hearing something about another guy that makes exhaust for
> RV's... Used to work for Vetterman of something... Anybody have this
> info?
>
> Thanks...
>
> -Bill
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bvondane(at)cso.atmel.com> |
I found him...
http://www.j-planestuff.com/ - I just bought a system from Vetterman...
OUCH!!
-Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of rickjory
Subject: Re: RV-List: Exhaust...
Bill . . . I could probably find this out in that the guy you may be
talking about is local. Having said this, I didn't think they had a
version configured for the 8 or 8A. Rick Jory
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill VonDane <bvondane(at)cso.atmel.com>
Subject: RV-List: Exhaust...
>
> I remember hearing something about another guy that makes exhaust for
> RV's... Used to work for Vetterman of something... Anybody have this
> info?
>
> Thanks...
>
> -Bill
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier(at)usi.edu> |
| Subject: | flaps spar upside down? |
There are several spots on the RVs where it is difficult to tell which side
is the top of the spar.... flaps, ailerons, etc.
Here's one way to check which flange angle is which. Take a tri-square and
hold it tight against the flange and spar web. Find a drill bit that will
barely fit into the gap of the angle in question. Now, using the same drill
bit, check the opposite flange. The bit will either be too big or be too
small. Now you can tell which angle is the top based on those observations!
Have fun!
Vince
Rocket in Indiana
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Any RV-4's flying with a 70" prop?? |
Chuck Rabaut wrote:
>
>
> Hi guys (and Gals),
>
> I'm thinking of swinging a 70" diameter propeller on one of my RV-4's.
> It looks like it will stay clear, even on nose low landings. Up til now
> I've only swung 68" props on my 4's. Anyone had a "Near Death" experience
> or a "Lawn Mover" type accident by swing something more than 68" ??? What
> diameter limit is un-acceptable? Thanks,
>
> Chuck
>
I had a 72" Warnke on my -4. It was completed (by someone
else) in '92, so it probably had the shorter legs. It worked
fine until a friend tried to wheel land it on a muddy grass
runway at around 85 kts. I suspect he would have trimmed
even a 62" that day. I wouldn't hesitate to put another 72"
on a -4, based on how I fly.
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
Anyone have an E-Mail address for these folks? Their website bounced my
"feedback" page...
Ralph Capen
> I found him...
>
> http://www.j-planestuff.com/ - I just bought a system from Vetterman...
> OUCH!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Vetterman exhausts |
Anyone have an E-Mail address for these folks?
Ralph Capen
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Finn Lassen <finnlassen(at)netzero.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Affordable turbine Power |
You wonder why the response hasn't been bigger?
You don't question their claimed quantum leap in BSFC (hp per pound of fuel per
hour) for a jet engine?
Or you don't care if you realistically have to carry and burn 10 times the fuel
compared to a piston engine? Or are you going to be flying at FL 300?
Finn
Jack Textor wrote:
>
> Brian,
> Looks like a great turbine to me, hopefully they will continue moving ahead.
> Besides the increased HP, reliability, etc, there should be less vibration.
> The only down side I can figure is the "stench" of Jet A. It doesn't appear
> they have made any changes to their web site since OSH. I was hoping to
> find some estimates on fuel burn and HP at the higher altitudes.
> Thanks for the thoughts,
> Jack
> RV8, stuck on wings
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Brian Denk
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Affordable turbine Power
>
>
> >
> >Jack, go to <<<>>
> >We saw it at Oshkosh too, liked it, and both my buddy and I joined the $100
> >hat club. I'm really surprised at the lack of public reaction to it. All
> >the Alt/ Power people are yammering about Diesels and convertd auto
> >engines.
> >I don't know what the chances of it really working out are but the idea
> >seems perfect for the RV-7 we hope to start next year. We had been looking
> >a the various Subaru and Mazda systems but none of them have really
> >developed anything in the 200-220 hp range. The turbine is so much simpler
> >with so many fewer parts and pieces to go sour. Lots of excellent concepts
> >never make it to market, for lots of reasons. but this one was worth a
> >small
> >gamble for us. By the time we're ready for an engine, hopefully they'll be
> >too, with all testing done and several flying. If it's not a go we'll
> >probably wind up using that new do-it-youself Lycosaur-a-like. I'm kind of
> >curious though, about how the insurance and plane construction financing
> >people react to RV's with alternate power. systems. Has anyone had
> >experience in this area? wayne stiles
>
> I'm also totally amazed at the quiet reception this project has received. I
> for one am totally ready for this kind of engine, and would absolutely
> consider one for the RV-10, IF they come up with a version with a higher
> horsepower rating. It seemed to me from their website that to get it over
> 200 hp, you really have to wind up the prop, like up to 3000rpm. Is this a
> typical rpm for a turboprop to turn?
>
> Brian Denk
> RV8 N94BD
> Lycosaur still chugging away.
>
>
----------------------------------------------------
Sign Up for NetZero Platinum Today
Only $9.95 per month!
http://my.netzero.net/s/signup?r=platinum&refcd=PT97
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | philip condon <pcondon(at)mitre.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Bending stick (control stick) |
I used a rear stick (RV-4) lower section on my front position so I could
have a removable front stick. This allowed me to experiment with stick
shapes very easy. I bent mine with a little heat & filled with sand and
about 5 feet long to get the length to grab and bend it. My best bend or
joggle was done cold between two trees in the back yard on evening. I
did do the large table with bending jigs and tried to be very scientific
about it.....those sticks came out so-so. Also, having a removable
stick allows for more room to work in the tight front area...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg Tanner" <gtanner(at)bendcable.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Bending stick (control stick) |
The best way to bend chromoly tubing is with a mandrel bender. Cold bending
won't change the chemical structure of the tube where heating will.
Greg
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of philip condon
Subject: RV-List: Re: Bending stick (control stick)
I used a rear stick (RV-4) lower section on my front position so I could
have a removable front stick. This allowed me to experiment with stick
shapes very easy. I bent mine with a little heat & filled with sand and
about 5 feet long to get the length to grab and bend it. My best bend or
joggle was done cold between two trees in the back yard on evening. I
did do the large table with bending jigs and tried to be very scientific
about it.....those sticks came out so-so. Also, having a removable
stick allows for more room to work in the tight front area...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "J Andrews" <rv8a(at)lycos.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 front stick position |
Mark,
I decided not to put a bend in mine, instead opting to just cut it short enough
to go under the instrument panel with the push button grip installed. I made
sure that I could still reach the trim buttons with my thumb even when under
the instrument panel.
My experience is that I like it short and not in my face. I find that I actually
let go of the stick when everything is trimmed and the navaid is doing the
flying. This way I'm free and unencumbered to unfold and look at my charts without
having to worry about coming in contact with the stick. I also like to
rest my arm on my leg while flying on long trips. The average total travel of
the end if the stick is at most about four or five inches in any direction.
I have parachutes as my seat backs so my six foot frame is pushed about as far
forward as you can comfortably be and I have no problem doing slow flight or stalls
with the stick in it's current configuration.
- Jim Andrews
RV-8A
N89JA (Flying)
--
On Sat, 20 Oct 2001 13:36:34
czechsix wrote:
>
>Guys,
>
>A couple RV-8 builders I know, including Oshkosh Grand Champion Lyle
>Hefel, have put a double-bend in the front control stick of the -8 to get
>the stick grip back closer to the pilot. If it's bent back far enough,
>this also allows the stick to be longer because the full forward position
>doesn't go underneath the panel.
>
>I'm wondering if those of you who have flying or almost complete -8's
>have any comments regarding the position of the control stick as designed
>by Van (straight and unmodified that is). Do you find that you have to
>reach or stretch your arm out excessively to reach the stick during
>normal flight? During stall recovery? Can you rest your arm on your leg
>during cruise and still hold the stick or do you have to keep your arm
>stretched out during the whole flight to hold onto it? Just trying to
>decide whether to modify or leave it alone....
>
>Thanks,
>
>--Mark Navratil
>Cedar Rapids, Iowa
>RV-8A fuselage
>
>
Make a difference, help support the relief efforts in the U.S.
http://clubs.lycos.com/live/events/september11.asp
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Fuel Selector Mount (RV-6) |
| From: | Don Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com> |
I don't know which holes the 682b's attached to, but it lined up with the
spar bolts.
I changed my value a little. I could not see how anyone attaches the 682A
plate to the value.
I wanted to NOT go through off to get to the other tank. so I made a
block of al 1 inch thick to lower the handle & rotated the value 45
degrees & moved the plug. I know have OFF-LEFT-RIGHT-OFF. 4 screws from
athe top hold the block & 2 hidden from the bottom secure the value to
athe block.
I have 3 screws attaching the top plate to the floor & 3 each on the side
to the b's. the b's pick up two spar bolts each & at the bottom I have 2
screws attaching to the fwd floor stiffeners. I put 2 ( on the other
side of the b's) f699 angles to attach to the floor stiffeners. Dummy put
them on the tilted side, & then decided they would fit better on the
other side.
Don Jordan - N6DJ - 6A
Arlington, Tx
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "d. wayne stiles" <dwstiles(at)hotmail.com> |
They have designed a planatary gear reduction drive that puts the prop in
the correct rpm range, not direct drive from the turbine shaft. the APU
unit that the turbine is derived from has an incrediblely long history of
reliability. The gear drive is also designed for simplicity and longevity.
If my memory is correct:
A) The whole package has less than a dozen-and-a-half moving parts .
B) They had some real hot-shot gear designer work up the gear system.
C) The 180-200 horspower is considerably downrated from max potential
D) It'll require an expensive full feather prop
E) It weighs under 300 lbs---they will have to ballast the front to achieve
COG
F) it'll require a redesigned cowl, giving quite a bit less frontal drag
Wish I could remember more of the details, but I'm on the road and away
from the literature I picked up.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: GNS 430 Questions |
Norman,
First of all, most if not all autopilots (including the Navaid) want to see an
analog 150mv differential (2 wire) signal for left and right steering. Panel
mount Lorans, GPSs and VOR receivers put out this signal because, coincidentally
enough, it is also used to drive the CDI. Handheld GPS units do not put out
this analog signal, but rather a digital data stream of various types. The
Smartcoupler you have (internal or external to the Navaid) is intended to take
NEMA type data from a handheld GPS and convert it to the analog signalling needed
to drive the autopilot. So... to make a long story longer, yes, you can
do what you've suggested. You need to hook your handheld GPS to the Smartcoupler.
Now you have three potential sources of left/right analog signals for the
Navaid. 1) the output from the Smartcoupler, 2) the panel mount GPS, and 3)
the VOR/LOC receiver. You'll need a 3 position selector switch to select which
pair of signals the Navaid sees.
Make sure also, that you handheld GPS is set up to put out NEMA data. Many will
put out one of several data types, but the Smartcoupler is looking for NEMA
data.
As a side note, if your using one of Garmins handhelds, you can have the GNS430
output route information via an RS-232 line so that when you put a route into
the 430 it automagically gets downloaded to the handheld. Check out the installation
manual for the 430. It tell you how to do this. Only down side is you
need to run the handheld in GARMIN data format rather than NEMA format to accomplish
this and thus, would not allow it to drive the A/P unless you switch
it back ti NEMA for the Samrtcoupler..
Hope this helps,
-Don
RV8 NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Affordable turbine Power |
I agree that it never hurts to dream, that's what life is all about fulfilling
our at least trying to fulfilling our dreams. Anyone who knows me will attest to
my being a dreamer, probably more than most.
But I have a problem when people ask others to pay for their dreams, with out
telling them all the facts.
Garry "Casper"
Jack Textor wrote:
>
> Garry,
> When I talked with them at OSH, they told me the engine started out years
> ago as an APU, I can't remember which company. They were also up-front
> about having only the minimum time allowed (60 hours operation I think)
> before a vendor can display at OSH. By the time I get my 8 done we will
> probably see WARP Drive propulsion. It never hurts to dream and investigate
> new products and innovations, guess that's why they call it experimental.
> Jack
> RV8, wings, having trouble setting #4 rivets attaching leading edge to spar
> :(
> Do Not Archieve
>
> _
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TCN44257(at)aol.com |
Todd, Cy and All,
Most but not all external shunts have a 50 milivolt (.050 volt) drop at the
full rated current. Thus as stated before you can use a milivolt meter with
the face calibrated in amperes. One advantage to using a shunt is you can
keep the high current heavy wire in the engine compartment and not behind the
instrument panel. This is not only a safety consideration but there is in
some cases a weight saving. The extra heavy wire required in a RV is probably
not that great but in large airplanes it can count up.
Karl Rigdon
tcn44257(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Christie" <billc(at)dancris.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Todd's Canopies |
I was one of the order group and got a 1/4" tinted unit. Mine came OK to our
receiving dock and a couple of the guys slid it into my pickup. It looks
gorgeous and my finish kit is supposed to arrive on the 24th!!
Bill Christie, RV8A, Phoenix
----- Original Message -----
From: <czechsix(at)juno.com>
Subject: RV-List: Re: Todd's Canopies
>
> Guys, I was the one who organized the last group order for RV-8 canopies
> from Todd Silver. Sorry to hear about shipping problems with at least
> one buyer. As for me, I am very happy with my canopy. It was delivered
> to my door with no problems, no damage to the crate, and looks very nice.
> Comes with polish and everything. Highly recommended.
>
> --Mark Navratil
> Cedar Rapids, Iowa
> RV-8A fuselage.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Norman" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
| Subject: | MT Extended Hub Prop |
I got some more info from Germany today. They are contradicting
themselves on the shipping price. Last week they said $200 to the USA
and today they say $650 to the west coast of Canada. Those of you
familiar with a world map might notice a similarity in distances between
say Vancouver and Los Angeles from Germany.
They say if you want an aerobatic prop (which they determine as more
than a roll or loop) you need a counter weighted one and the price is
$9940. They say the G's are unlimited as your plane will reach limits
before the prop. This prop is a hydraulic CS.
As for rain they say with the stainless leading edge you will only lose
the paint off it. They same composition is used on certified aircraft
such as the Malibu or Extra 400. TBO is 1800 hours or 5 years.
Now I'm waiting for more info from Wirlwind. I want a prop with an
extended hub to be able to use the Sam James cowl without sacrificing a
reasonable amount of aerobatics. The extended hub Hartzell is limited to
3.1 G's as reported here on the List. For what it's worth.
Regards,
Norman Hunger
RV6A Delta BC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Norman" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca> |
| Subject: | Whirl Wind Proppellers |
Here is a reply to two of my emails to Whirl Wind Propellers:
********************************************************
Thank you for your interest in Whirl Wind. For your RV6A and O-360
application, we offer the 150 Series propeller in a 69" diameter. This
is a
constant speed, hydraulic control composite 3 blade propeller that
weighs
only 28 lbs. The price is $6900 which includes the propeller, spinner,
front
& rear bulkheads and the shipping container. The only additional costs
will
be the actual shipping, a governor if you need one, and the custom paint
fee
of $100 if you so desire. Standard paint colors are either white with
red
tips or gray with white tips. The governor is made by Jihostroj, weighs
about 2 lbs, and cost is $1250 - but you can use a McCauley governor
that
will have to be adjusted for our system. The spinner is made of
fiberglass
and comes primed and ready to paint (sorry, no chrome).
Regarding the question on the cowling, we are not familiar with the Sam
James cowl - but I doubt there will be any issues - we offer an extended
hub
version that will work in the same way the Hartzel does. Regarding your
question on the G limit, we limit at 6 g's for our standard hub and
potentially to 4 g's for our extended hub - though we are still
completing
tests. We can discuss further when we have finished with our final
flight
test group. Regarding TBO time, we are hoping to work towards 1,000
hours,
but during the initial release, we will limit as required.
To give you an update on the 150 Series, our final flight testing
program
has been significantly delayed (currently stopped) due to continued
grounding of VFR flying in our Class B airspace. I do not have a firm
date
that we will begin taking orders - but at best it will be 3 to 4 more
months. This all depends on the outcome of the airspace restrictions. I
have
a list of people that would like to be notified when we do begin taking
orders, so let me know if you would like to be put on that list (this is
not
a waiting list, but a info list only). I wish I had better news for time
to
delivery. There will be a few RV owners flying our 150 Series in the
months
to come as part of our final flight time testing - and they are eagerly
waiting as we speak.
***********************************************
Low TBO, unknown G limit, good ground clearance, no answer to the
ability to fly in rain. Sounds like this company is still developing
this product and has more flight testing to go. Who has heard of
Jihostroj governors?
Regards,
Norman Hunger
RV6A Delta BC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)peoplepc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Flap fit "what went wrong" |
Thanks to everyone for the replies and ideas about how to fix my flap/top
skin interference problem. I wanted to let everyone know what happened and
what you can do to avoid the problem in the first place.
Most people have a lot more brain cells than I do and don't put themselves
in this position but noooooooo, not me.
Mark Phillips was a big help since he experiences something simular but not
to the extent that I did. Thanks for the help Mark. When mounting the flap
I used both wood wing templates to position the flap, line up the trailing
edge with the aileron and install the hinge pin. Everything looked great
and I proceeded to make the flap brace. When I finished the flap brace I
lined it up and drilled the hinge/skin/brace all together. I then proceded
to position the flap brace to the rear spar for drilling. what I failed to
do was to reinstall the wing template and position the flap in the
appropriate location. Maybe it was late at night, maybe I was hungry or
maybe I was just being a bonehead, but I fit the flap brace to the spar and
just let it fall where it may and drilled it to the rear spar. Until I
riveted the top skin on and installed the flap for the final time the
alignment problem didn't reach out and slap me in the face.
Now, how do I fix the problem. I have to drill out the rivets that hold the
flap brace to rear spar, install the wing templates then reposition the
brace and drill new holes inbetween the existing holes so as to not have any
hole to hole interference problems.
The additional problem that I have now is that I used CherryMax Rivets to
rivet the flap brace to the rear spar. I don't know how many of you have
tried to drill out a CherryMax Blind Rivet but if you have any suggestions,
I'd love to hear them. Right now, the procedure that seems to work is to
grind the head of the rivet down some and this will allow me to drive out
the mandrel. After the mandrel is driven out then I can use a sharp drill
bit with light pressure to drill through the rivet and remove it. Trying to
drill out the mandrell is an exercise in futility.
If you haven't installed your flap brace yet be sure that the wood wing
templates are in place before doing it.
Thanks for everyone's help.
Mike
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Whirl Wind Proppellers |
I know someone who is currently testing the 3 blade Whirl Wind prop on his
Glasair. I will pick his brain about it and see what he thinks.
Paul Besing
RV-6A N197AB Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Flying
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Norman" <nhunger(at)sprint.ca>
Subject: RV-List: Whirl Wind Proppellers
Here is a reply to two of my emails to Whirl Wind Propellers:
********************************************************
Thank you for your interest in Whirl Wind. For your RV6A and O-360
application, we offer the 150 Series propeller in a 69" diameter. This
is a
constant speed, hydraulic control composite 3 blade propeller that
weighs
only 28 lbs. The price is $6900 which includes the propeller, spinner,
front
& rear bulkheads and the shipping container. The only additional costs
will
be the actual shipping, a governor if you need one, and the custom paint
fee
of $100 if you so desire. Standard paint colors are either white with
red
tips or gray with white tips. The governor is made by Jihostroj, weighs
about 2 lbs, and cost is $1250 - but you can use a McCauley governor
that
will have to be adjusted for our system. The spinner is made of
fiberglass
and comes primed and ready to paint (sorry, no chrome).
Regarding the question on the cowling, we are not familiar with the Sam
James cowl - but I doubt there will be any issues - we offer an extended
hub
version that will work in the same way the Hartzel does. Regarding your
question on the G limit, we limit at 6 g's for our standard hub and
potentially to 4 g's for our extended hub - though we are still
completing
tests. We can discuss further when we have finished with our final
flight
test group. Regarding TBO time, we are hoping to work towards 1,000
hours,
but during the initial release, we will limit as required.
To give you an update on the 150 Series, our final flight testing
program
has been significantly delayed (currently stopped) due to continued
grounding of VFR flying in our Class B airspace. I do not have a firm
date
that we will begin taking orders - but at best it will be 3 to 4 more
months. This all depends on the outcome of the airspace restrictions. I
have
a list of people that would like to be notified when we do begin taking
orders, so let me know if you would like to be put on that list (this is
not
a waiting list, but a info list only). I wish I had better news for time
to
delivery. There will be a few RV owners flying our 150 Series in the
months
to come as part of our final flight time testing - and they are eagerly
waiting as we speak.
***********************************************
Low TBO, unknown G limit, good ground clearance, no answer to the
ability to fly in rain. Sounds like this company is still developing
this product and has more flight testing to go. Who has heard of
Jihostroj governors?
Regards,
Norman Hunger
RV6A Delta BC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robin Wessel" <robin.wessel(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Fuel flow accuracy |
Listers-
I am wondering if any of you can share your experiences regarding the
accuracy of fuel flow measurement using the FloScan 201 sender. I am
using the EIS 4000 system with the fuel flow option. Originally I was
getting very erratic readings but after I added a Fram filter downstream
(as suggested by Tim Lewis's web site) the reading calmed down quite a
bit but is still not perfect. The fuel system is plumbed- fuel selector
> 201 sender > Fram G3 filter > electric pump > mech pump
> carb.
After some tweaking, the totalizer readings are about +-5% over 10
gallons. Is this error normal, or should I expect better? I noticed that
Matronics has a nice looking pulse dampener, can I expect better results
with this dampener over my current setup?
Robin Wessel
RV-6A 58 hours
Tigard, OR
http://robin.getbiz.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel flow accuracy |
--- Robin Wessel wrote:
>
>
> Listers-
>
> I am wondering if any of you can share your experiences regarding the
> accuracy of fuel flow measurement using the FloScan 201 sender. I am
> using the EIS 4000 system with the fuel flow option. Originally I was
> getting very erratic readings but after I added a Fram filter
> downstream
> (as suggested by Tim Lewis's web site) the reading calmed down quite
> a
> bit but is still not perfect. The fuel system is plumbed- fuel
> selector
> > 201 sender > Fram G3 filter > electric pump > mech pump
> > carb.
>
> After some tweaking, the totalizer readings are about +-5% over 10
> gallons. Is this error normal, or should I expect better? I noticed
> that
> Matronics has a nice looking pulse dampener, can I expect better
> results
> with this dampener over my current setup?
>
> Robin Wessel
> RV-6A 58 hours
> Tigard, OR
> http://robin.getbiz.net
Robin:
I have the MicroMonitor with the 201 sender. I use it more as a fuel
totalizer and fuel remaining more than I do as an instantaneous fuel
flow. I know at certain power settings to expect a certain fuel flow
at a given altitude and if I do not, I am not leaned enough.
After 969.4 flying hours, I keep track of every drop of fuel and fuel
flow totalizer values. All of them are in a spreadsheet. Once a year,
I evaluate the entire year data.
The sender is only 2.5% accurate according to the manufacturer. My
average last year was 3.5%. I have left it so that it show a slight
greater fuel flow than actual. This is a built in safety factor.
Yes you can get better than 5%. It is great that you have it that
close in less than 60 hours. It is very difficult to do it on one
tank. Run several hundred gallons of fuel keeping records. Made
adjustments accordingly.
====
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
969+ Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.tripod.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: control cables problems |
dear listers,
i'm trying to fine tune my quadrant cables. the prop gov cable dosen't seem
to want to go to the stop on the rear of the governor. when i pull the lever
back, it hits the stop that way, when i push forward it comes about 1/4 inch
away from the stop. i can't seem to get it to go to the stop no matter what i
do to the adjustments. what will the governor be doing if when pushed all the
way forward, and not going all the way. will the prop have less grip on the
air, hense reducing the climb rate? or does it work the opposite and will
give me less cruise speed.
any suggestions
scott
tampa
i want the best of both, climb and cruise
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuel flow accuracy |
Robin,
You should expect better, but you should also measure it over a larger
sample size (more gallons). My Floscan 201, used in concert with the
Electronics International FP-5 flow gauge, is accurate to within .5 gallons
every time on a 30 gallon fill-up (RV-8s have 42 gallon capacity). Test on a
whole tank before concluding the system is inacurate.
Randy Lervold
>
> Listers-
>
> I am wondering if any of you can share your experiences regarding the
> accuracy of fuel flow measurement using the FloScan 201 sender. I am
> using the EIS 4000 system with the fuel flow option. Originally I was
> getting very erratic readings but after I added a Fram filter downstream
> (as suggested by Tim Lewis's web site) the reading calmed down quite a
> bit but is still not perfect. The fuel system is plumbed- fuel selector
> > 201 sender > Fram G3 filter > electric pump > mech pump
> > carb.
>
> After some tweaking, the totalizer readings are about +-5% over 10
> gallons. Is this error normal, or should I expect better? I noticed that
> Matronics has a nice looking pulse dampener, can I expect better results
> with this dampener over my current setup?
>
> Robin Wessel
> RV-6A 58 hours
> Tigard, OR
> http://robin.getbiz.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RGray67968(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | muff heater scrubbies |
Listers,
Went shopping for some stainless pads/wool/scrubbies for my heat muff
today and came home empty handed. Where are you folks getting the stainless
stuff or are you using something else?
Thanks in advance
Rick Gray RV6 (Ohio) at the Buffalo Farm - finishing touches (boy, that
sounds almost as good as 'flying'......well......almost
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: control cables problems |
> dear listers,
> i'm trying to fine tune my quadrant cables. the prop gov cable dosen't
seem
> to want to go to the stop on the rear of the governor.
[snip]
Not sure which specific adjustments you've tried? You say when you pull the
mixture out it hits the stop -- at that point is the telescoping end of the
cable fully retracted? That is, is the butt end of the rod end bearing
hitting or almost hitting the tube that the 10-32 shaft its screwed to,
slides in to? If not, you should adjust the nuts on the mounting collar so
that you get more throw out of it.
If you have Van's standard cable it should have adequate throw.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Glenn & Judi" <dirtyrottenscoundrels(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Fuel flow accuracy |
Randy,
On your FP-5 you can tweak the "K" factor to your installation for even
greater accuracy.
-Glenn Gordon
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Randy Lervold
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel flow accuracy
Robin,
You should expect better, but you should also measure it over a larger
sample size (more gallons). My Floscan 201, used in concert with the
Electronics International FP-5 flow gauge, is accurate to within .5 gallons
every time on a 30 gallon fill-up (RV-8s have 42 gallon capacity). Test on a
whole tank before concluding the system is inacurate.
Randy Lervold
>
> Listers-
>
> I am wondering if any of you can share your experiences regarding the
> accuracy of fuel flow measurement using the FloScan 201 sender. I am
> using the EIS 4000 system with the fuel flow option. Originally I was
> getting very erratic readings but after I added a Fram filter downstream
> (as suggested by Tim Lewis's web site) the reading calmed down quite a
> bit but is still not perfect. The fuel system is plumbed- fuel selector
> > 201 sender > Fram G3 filter > electric pump > mech pump
> > carb.
>
> After some tweaking, the totalizer readings are about +-5% over 10
> gallons. Is this error normal, or should I expect better? I noticed that
> Matronics has a nice looking pulse dampener, can I expect better results
> with this dampener over my current setup?
>
> Robin Wessel
> RV-6A 58 hours
> Tigard, OR
> http://robin.getbiz.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Karl Schilling" <k_schilling(at)iquest.net> |
| Subject: | muff heater scrubbies |
Go to a commercial kitchen supplier. They have them in their kitchen
supplies.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
RGray67968(at)aol.com
Subject: RV-List: muff heater scrubbies
Listers,
Went shopping for some stainless pads/wool/scrubbies for my heat muff
today and came home empty handed. Where are you folks getting the stainless
stuff or are you using something else?
Thanks in advance
Rick Gray RV6 (Ohio) at the Buffalo Farm - finishing touches (boy, that
sounds almost as good as 'flying'......well......almost
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Costello" <wmcenterprises(at)earthlink.net> |
Hi Folks,
I don't know if you guys 'n gals are already familiar with this, but my
daughter's boyfriend introduced me to a weather service the other day that I
started using. It is a free software download that becomes part of your
Windows startup. After that the current temperature sits in the icon tray
on your Task Bar and all you do is click on it to get a full weather
window -- winds, temp, humidity, sunrise/sunset, and lots more. I REALLY
like it, so I thought I would pass the info along to anyone who investigates
it. No, I don't get any premium for recommending others, but I would like
to see it prosper (there are small ads in the window that I find easy to
ignore, which is how they pay their freight).
Anyone interested check out http://ww2.weatherbug.com/aws/?cid=9
Bill Costello
Chicago
wmcenterprises(at)earthlink.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | OrndorffG(at)aol.com |
Rumor has it that he is using Vetterman's design without compensation to
Vetterman and the workmanship is not nearly as good.
Becki Orndorff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
| Subject: | Garmin Jeppesen Update |
Has anyone found a less expensive way to update their Garmin panel mount
GPS? Jeppesen wants $175 for a one time update. I found a place in Germany
that will do it for $88 if I send them my card, but I am concerned about
sending my card and money overseas. Any ideas?
Paul Besing
RV-6A N197AB Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Flying
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)peoplepc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Garmin Jeppesen Update |
Paul, we had out GPS90 updated for $50 at OSH this year but for the life of
me I can't remember by whom. Have you tried places like Pacific Aero, Chief
Aircraft or some of those type of companies?
Mike
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com>
Subject: RV-List: Garmin Jeppesen Update
>
> Has anyone found a less expensive way to update their Garmin panel mount
> GPS? Jeppesen wants $175 for a one time update. I found a place in
Germany
> that will do it for $88 if I send them my card, but I am concerned about
> sending my card and money overseas. Any ideas?
>
> Paul Besing
> RV-6A N197AB Arizona
> http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
> Flying
> Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
> http://www.kitlog.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
Gary, I have the same totalizer setup you have and have experienced
similar results.
However, this post is prompted by the relatively high time on your RV.
Several of us are now approaching the 300-400 hr mark on the Hobbs (or
RMI), and no doubt would be interested in any maintenance or service
issues you have uncovered in respect to nearly 1000 hrs on your plane.
Are there any areas we need to be watching in particular as the hours
accumulate?
October 16, 2001 - October 23, 2001
RV-Archive.digest.vol-ls