RV-Archive.digest.vol-mb
December 24, 2001 - January 02, 2002
If I line up the mounting flange square to the throttle body the duct hits
the starter solenoid. It looks like I could just rotate the FAB slightly
clockwise (looking aft) and glass up the flange more without having a big
problem at the filter end.
Just wondering if anyone else has this problem and what you did.
Thanks and Merry Christmas.
Greg Puckett 80081 (slooow build)
Elizabeth Colorado
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Duane Bentley" <dbentley(at)fuse.net> |
| Subject: | Wing Fuselage Assembly |
I have built all of my RV6 to this point in my garage and I'm working the
finishing kit. Having an open hangar available for a few weeks right now, I
decided to transport the fuselage with engine installed to the hangar, to
trial fit the wings and determine the locations for the fuel lines, wiring
feeds, etc from the wings to the fuselage. I found a local trailer dealer
that would rent the car carrier type low trailer for half a day ($50) and
took the fuselage to the airport with no problems. The wings were already
in storage at the hangar.
Mounting the wings, is a much more difficult job then I anticipated. I have
the recommended drift pins but ran into a number of problems. The right
wing spar (Quick Build Kit) had the most inboard spar rivet head (secures
the individual spar plates together) installed too far inboard. The rivet
head hits the side of the fuselage before the wing is pushed in all the way,
which kept the spar from inserting the last 1/4". Half of that rivet head
needed to be ground off. Then when attaching the four splice plates across
the two wing spars I found it was still mismatched, by about a half bolt
hole. I pulled the spars out, tried the other side, with the same results.
The bolts fit fine throught the spar splice plates with respect to their
relative bolt hole spacing on each individual wing spar, but were off when
attaching the two spars together. I finally pull both wings out, and put
the splice plates up against the fuselage cross member to verify the holes.
Sure enough, the splice plates labeled "top" by Vans were really bottom, and
vice versus. Back in one more time. The holes are pretty close now, but
the alignment pins still need a good deal of "persuasion" to insert. (I
forgot to take the grease / lube to the hangar). I only have about 1/3 of
the close tolerance bolts installed, when I stopped. My plan was to use the
hardware store bolts as alignment pins, then put in the close tolerance
bolts. I am concerned now that if I put in all the final bolts, I might not
be able to get them back out. I spent about 3 hours in total this morning
and my helper (my son the accountant) has reached his level of endurance
with Dear Old Dad. He's not mechanically inclined at all, but did remember
how I paid his tuition bills for five years at Ohio State, and agreed to
"lift and push" as requested. Father-son bonding it's not. It's cold and
it's Christmas Eve, so I decided to quit being "Scrooge" and come back after
a day or two of respit.
That's one disadvantage of moving to the hangar (as well as realizing that
the one tool you didn't bring is 10 miles back in the garage). My plan was
to finalize the wing positioning, set up the aileron control tubes, mark all
the intersections of the wiring, fuel lines, etc, and then return the
fuselage to the garage. The next time I put on the wings will be just
before it flys.
Anything else I need to look out for???
Duane
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Mullins" <smullins(at)drury.edu> |
| Subject: | Prince Propeller |
Do any of you RVers have experience with the Prince P-tip prop on your RV4s
(or other aircraft)? If so, I'd love to hear some feedback.
Steve Mullins, Ph.D.
Associate Professor of Economics
Drury University
417.889.5609 (home)
417.873.7299 (office)
----- Original Message -----
From: "rob ray" <smokyray(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RV4-List: Prop
> --> RV4-List message posted by: rob ray
>
> Hi Tom;
>
> I also have a 150hp RV4 but the Rose electronic
> ignition added 150 rpm to my top end so I had to
> re-tire my Sterba. I bought a used 68X72 Warnke and
> had it refinished by Margie and I also have a Craig
> Catto composite 68X70. Both props produce 215 IAS mph
> top speed @ W2850/C2950 respectively. The Catto is
> EXTREMELY smooth and bulletproof. The Warnke also
> works well and seems to "change pitch" inflight. For
> durability off grass and rough strips, the composite
> Catto and Carbon Graphite tipped Warnke are great.
>
> Rob Ray
> N557RR
> --- Thomas Rupe wrote:
> > --> RV4-List message posted by: Thomas Rupe
> >
> >
> > Dan,
> > Sounds like you have a climb prop. I have a Felix
> > 69x69 on the front
> > end of my 150HP. I like it a lot.
> >
> > Tom Rupe
> > N3882N
> >
> >
> >
> > Contributions of
> > any other form
> >
> > latest messages.
> > other List members.
> >
> > http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> > http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> > http://www.matronics.com/search
> > http://www.matronics.com/archives
> > http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> Send your FREE holiday greetings online!
> http://greetings.yahoo.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ed Holyoke <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Wing Fuselage Assembly |
Duane,
One tool I really recommend for this is a brass tipped set for your
rivet gun. I got mine from Brown tools. This little puppy drives those
bolts in and out like magic. I accidentally sheared the brass tip off,
but it works fine ducktaped in place. I did use some spray lube on the
bolts as well. Van's recommends cleaning out the bolt holes with
scotchbrite. You can chuck it in a cordless drill. I sort of lined
things up with a long tapered drift and drove in the next bolt over with
the gun while my nephew moved the wingtip a little. Subsequent bolts got
even easier to line up requiring less wingtip jiggling.
Better talk to Van's about that rivet head. The stresses are highest
inboard. Look at the splice plates carefully. The one on the bottom rear
has a rounded edge to fit inside the spar carry through.
One thing I discovered (too late) was that it's better to mark some sort
of layout for those overlapping fuselage skin screw holes on the bottom
before you plug the wings in. I had forward sweep on my right wing and
had to pull it out enough to trim the rear spar tab to clear the flange
of the wing rib. While I had it out, I drilled the holes in the wingroot
flange and, once in place with the incidence set, rear spar bolted, and
tank mount bolted, I match drilled those holes using a strap duplicator.
A good displaced hole layout probably would have been easier. I'll try
that on the left wing as soon as I get around to pulling it out enough
to do the layout.
Good luck and try not to piss off the relatives too much. There's some
stuff you absolutely can't do alone.
Ed Holyoke
6QB
I have built all of my RV6 to this point in my garage and I'm working
the
finishing kit. Having an open hangar available for a few weeks right
now, I
decided to transport the fuselage with engine installed to the hangar,
to
trial fit the wings and determine the locations for the fuel lines,
wiring
feeds, etc from the wings to the fuselage. I found a local trailer
dealer
that would rent the car carrier type low trailer for half a day ($50)
and
took the fuselage to the airport with no problems. The wings were
already
in storage at the hangar.
Mounting the wings, is a much more difficult job then I anticipated. I
have
the recommended drift pins but ran into a number of problems. The right
wing spar (Quick Build Kit) had the most inboard spar rivet head
(secures
the individual spar plates together) installed too far inboard. The
rivet
head hits the side of the fuselage before the wing is pushed in all the
way,
which kept the spar from inserting the last 1/4". Half of that rivet
head
needed to be ground off. Then when attaching the four splice plates
across
the two wing spars I found it was still mismatched, by about a half bolt
hole. I pulled the spars out, tried the other side, with the same
results.
The bolts fit fine throught the spar splice plates with respect to their
relative bolt hole spacing on each individual wing spar, but were off
when
attaching the two spars together. I finally pull both wings out, and
put
the splice plates up against the fuselage cross member to verify the
holes.
Sure enough, the splice plates labeled "top" by Vans were really bottom,
and
vice versus. Back in one more time. The holes are pretty close now,
but
the alignment pins still need a good deal of "persuasion" to insert. (I
forgot to take the grease / lube to the hangar). I only have about 1/3
of
the close tolerance bolts installed, when I stopped. My plan was to use
the
hardware store bolts as alignment pins, then put in the close tolerance
bolts. I am concerned now that if I put in all the final bolts, I might
not
be able to get them back out. I spent about 3 hours in total this
morning
and my helper (my son the accountant) has reached his level of endurance
with Dear Old Dad. He's not mechanically inclined at all, but did
remember
how I paid his tuition bills for five years at Ohio State, and agreed to
"lift and push" as requested. Father-son bonding it's not. It's cold
and
it's Christmas Eve, so I decided to quit being "Scrooge" and come back
after
a day or two of respit.
That's one disadvantage of moving to the hangar (as well as realizing
that
the one tool you didn't bring is 10 miles back in the garage). My plan
was
to finalize the wing positioning, set up the aileron control tubes, mark
all
the intersections of the wiring, fuel lines, etc, and then return the
fuselage to the garage. The next time I put on the wings will be just
before it flys.
Anything else I need to look out for???
Duane
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 200hp FAB interference on RV-8 |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 200hp FAB interference on RV-8 |
Greg,
Dave and I had a similar siutation. We had an Airtec lightweight starter and there
was no way the FAB was going to fit. We decided to go with the Flight Mag
starter and still had to slightly grind one corner of the started flange and heat
and shape the FAB to get the proper clearenace. All has worked fine since.
BTW Airtec credited us for their starter and we have had no problems starting
(Hot or Cold) with the Flightmag and Slick Start module.
Keep Building - these are the most outstanding a/c.
Chuck Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A (47 hours)
Niantic, CT
From: Greg Puckett <RV8ER(at)CONCENTRIC.NET>
Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
To: RV-List(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: 200hp FAB interference on RV-8
Date: Mon, 24 Dec 2001 12:16:03 -0700
-- RV-List message posted by: Greg Puckett
Has anyone tried fitting the FAB System for 200hp (IO360-A3B6D) using the
Skytec starter from Van's?
If I line up the mounting flange square to the throttle body the duct hits
the starter solenoid. It looks like I could just rotate the FAB slightly
clockwise (looking aft) and glass up the flange more without having a big
problem at the filter end.
Just wondering if anyone else has this problem and what you did.
Thanks and Merry Christmas.
Greg Puckett 80081 (slooow build)
Elizabeth Colorado
Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: Click Here
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing Fuselage Assembly |
Yes, don't forget to drill the underlap skin on the bottom of the fuse to
the wing. Also, you might want to go ahead and do you wing root fairings.
Also, the next time you put your wings in, use your rivet gun to drive the
bolts in. You would be surprised at how easy they go in with the light
tapping that a rivet gun will do to the bolts. Grease or lube is not a
great solution. They can trap dirt and metal shavings in your holes, making
things worse.
Paul Besing
RV-6A N197AB Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Flying
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Duane Bentley" <dbentley(at)fuse.net>
Subject: RV-List: Wing Fuselage Assembly
>
> I have built all of my RV6 to this point in my garage and I'm working the
> finishing kit. Having an open hangar available for a few weeks right now,
I
> decided to transport the fuselage with engine installed to the hangar, to
> trial fit the wings and determine the locations for the fuel lines, wiring
> feeds, etc from the wings to the fuselage. I found a local trailer dealer
> that would rent the car carrier type low trailer for half a day ($50) and
> took the fuselage to the airport with no problems. The wings were already
> in storage at the hangar.
>
> Mounting the wings, is a much more difficult job then I anticipated. I
have
> the recommended drift pins but ran into a number of problems. The right
> wing spar (Quick Build Kit) had the most inboard spar rivet head (secures
> the individual spar plates together) installed too far inboard. The rivet
> head hits the side of the fuselage before the wing is pushed in all the
way,
> which kept the spar from inserting the last 1/4". Half of that rivet head
> needed to be ground off. Then when attaching the four splice plates
across
> the two wing spars I found it was still mismatched, by about a half bolt
> hole. I pulled the spars out, tried the other side, with the same
results.
> The bolts fit fine throught the spar splice plates with respect to their
> relative bolt hole spacing on each individual wing spar, but were off when
> attaching the two spars together. I finally pull both wings out, and put
> the splice plates up against the fuselage cross member to verify the
holes.
> Sure enough, the splice plates labeled "top" by Vans were really bottom,
and
> vice versus. Back in one more time. The holes are pretty close now, but
> the alignment pins still need a good deal of "persuasion" to insert. (I
> forgot to take the grease / lube to the hangar). I only have about 1/3 of
> the close tolerance bolts installed, when I stopped. My plan was to use
the
> hardware store bolts as alignment pins, then put in the close tolerance
> bolts. I am concerned now that if I put in all the final bolts, I might
not
> be able to get them back out. I spent about 3 hours in total this morning
> and my helper (my son the accountant) has reached his level of endurance
> with Dear Old Dad. He's not mechanically inclined at all, but did
remember
> how I paid his tuition bills for five years at Ohio State, and agreed to
> "lift and push" as requested. Father-son bonding it's not. It's cold and
> it's Christmas Eve, so I decided to quit being "Scrooge" and come back
after
> a day or two of respit.
>
> That's one disadvantage of moving to the hangar (as well as realizing that
> the one tool you didn't bring is 10 miles back in the garage). My plan
was
> to finalize the wing positioning, set up the aileron control tubes, mark
all
> the intersections of the wiring, fuel lines, etc, and then return the
> fuselage to the garage. The next time I put on the wings will be just
> before it flys.
>
> Anything else I need to look out for???
>
> Duane
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Rivnuts vs. NutSerts |
Browsing the AC Spruce catalog today, looking for an easier way to secure the
gear leg intersection fairings to the fuselage than tearing the interior
apart to install platenuts, I came across these two competing products. Is
there anyone with experioence using both who cares to comment on which might
work better? I have no install tool for either system, so the nut-sert
disposable tool would make for a cheaper overall system, IF it works well. I
need to do about 5 #6 screws in each side of the fuselage, then I may never
need them again...
Thanks and holiday greetings.
Bill Boyd
RV-6A O-320/Sensenich FP
Hop-Along Air Field, 12VA
Clifton Forge, VA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rob ray <smokyray(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV4-List: Prince Propeller |
Steve;
I have flown a -4 with a p=tip prop and it
performed very well. Sam James says it'sthe best prop
he has tried yet, out of 4or5. My experience is from
calling about information and he is excellent in that
regard. He has composite props as well which I feel is
the best compromise for all operations. Also talk to
Craig Catto and Margie Warnke.
Rob Ray
N557RR
--- Steve Mullins wrote:
> --> RV4-List message posted by: "Steve Mullins"
>
>
> Do any of you RVers have experience with the Prince
> P-tip prop on your RV4s
> (or other aircraft)? If so, I'd love to hear some
> feedback.
>
> Steve Mullins, Ph.D.
> Associate Professor of Economics
> Drury University
> 417.889.5609 (home)
> 417.873.7299 (office)
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "rob ray" <smokyray(at)yahoo.com>
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV4-List: Prop
>
>
> > --> RV4-List message posted by: rob ray
>
> >
> > Hi Tom;
> >
> > I also have a 150hp RV4 but the Rose electronic
> > ignition added 150 rpm to my top end so I had to
> > re-tire my Sterba. I bought a used 68X72 Warnke
> and
> > had it refinished by Margie and I also have a
> Craig
> > Catto composite 68X70. Both props produce 215 IAS
> mph
> > top speed @ W2850/C2950 respectively. The Catto is
> > EXTREMELY smooth and bulletproof. The Warnke also
> > works well and seems to "change pitch" inflight.
> For
> > durability off grass and rough strips, the
> composite
> > Catto and Carbon Graphite tipped Warnke are great.
> >
> > Rob Ray
> > N557RR
> > --- Thomas Rupe wrote:
> > > --> RV4-List message posted by: Thomas Rupe
> > >
> > >
> > > Dan,
> > > Sounds like you have a climb prop. I have a
> Felix
> > > 69x69 on the front
> > > end of my 150HP. I like it a lot.
> > >
> > > Tom Rupe
> > > N3882N
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Contributions of
> > > any other form
> > >
> > > latest messages.
> > > other List members.
> > >
> > > http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> > > http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> > > http://www.matronics.com/search
> > > http://www.matronics.com/archives
> > > http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> > Send your FREE holiday greetings online!
> > http://greetings.yahoo.com
> >
> >
>
>
>
> Contributions of
> any other form
>
> latest messages.
> other List members.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/search
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
Send your FREE holiday greetings online!
http://greetings.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eric Newton" <enewton57(at)cableone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rivnuts vs. NutSerts |
Hi Bill,
I used the nut-serts for my intersection fairings and they worked great.
Eric Newton - Long Beach, MS
RV-6A N57ME (Flying)
www.ericsrv6a.com
----- Original Message -----
From: <SportAV8R(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: Rivnuts vs. NutSerts
>
>
> Browsing the AC Spruce catalog today, looking for an easier way to secure
the
> gear leg intersection fairings to the fuselage than tearing the interior
> apart to install platenuts, I came across these two competing products.
Is
> there anyone with experioence using both who cares to comment on which
might
> work better? I have no install tool for either system, so the nut-sert
> disposable tool would make for a cheaper overall system, IF it works well.
I
> need to do about 5 #6 screws in each side of the fuselage, then I may
never
> need them again...
>
> Thanks and holiday greetings.
>
> Bill Boyd
> RV-6A O-320/Sensenich FP
> Hop-Along Air Field, 12VA
> Clifton Forge, VA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tommy Walker" <twsurveyor(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Prince Propeller |
I flew from Nashville (BNA) to Sarasota (SRQ) in a 180 HP 6A W/ a Prince
"P-tip" along side a 180 HP 6A W/ a constant speed prop. No difference in top
end speed at all, although we were turning about 200 RPM more! He (the other 6A)
could out climb us by 300 fpm or so. I now own that "P-tip" prop and it'll
soon be on my 6A!
Tommy Walker
6A Finishing
Ridgetop, TN
----- Original Message -----
From: Steve Mullins
Subject: RV-List: Prince Propeller
Do any of you RVers have experience with the Prince P-tip prop on your RV4s
(or other aircraft)? If so, I'd love to hear some feedback.
Steve Mullins, Ph.D.
Associate Professor of Economics
Drury University
417.889.5609 (home)
417.873.7299 (office)
----- Original Message -----
From: "rob ray" <smokyray(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RV4-List: Prop
> --> RV4-List message posted by: rob ray
>
> Hi Tom;
>
> I also have a 150hp RV4 but the Rose electronic
> ignition added 150 rpm to my top end so I had to
> re-tire my Sterba. I bought a used 68X72 Warnke and
> had it refinished by Margie and I also have a Craig
> Catto composite 68X70. Both props produce 215 IAS mph
> top speed @ W2850/C2950 respectively. The Catto is
> EXTREMELY smooth and bulletproof. The Warnke also
> works well and seems to "change pitch" inflight. For
> durability off grass and rough strips, the composite
> Catto and Carbon Graphite tipped Warnke are great.
>
> Rob Ray
> N557RR
> --- Thomas Rupe wrote:
> > --> RV4-List message posted by: Thomas Rupe
> >
> >
> > Dan,
> > Sounds like you have a climb prop. I have a Felix
> > 69x69 on the front
> > end of my 150HP. I like it a lot.
> >
> > Tom Rupe
> > N3882N
> >
> >
> >
> > Contributions of
> > any other form
> >
> > latest messages.
> > other List members.
> >
> > http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> > http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> > http://www.matronics.com/search
> > http://www.matronics.com/archives
> > http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> Send your FREE holiday greetings online!
> http://greetings.yahoo.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Frank Goggio" <fgoggio(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Prince Propeller |
steve,dont know if you will remember me or not, but my name is frank goggio,
live in fayeteville nc, we talked one time about a kitfox that i owned,had
two really,one had the prince p-tip prop,it was on the model 5, the other
was a 4,both had rotax 912 engines in them,even thought the 5 was a bigger
and heavyer,at the same rpm the 5 would keep up with the 4,the prince p-tip
was a very good prop.was still on the plane when i sold it, was still like
new,i would recommend it,not considering it for my 6 because i an using a
constant speed prop.you still have your 5 that you bought? frank goggio
rv6a
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Mullins" <smullins(at)drury.edu>
Subject: RV-List: Prince Propeller
>
> Do any of you RVers have experience with the Prince P-tip prop on your
RV4s
> (or other aircraft)? If so, I'd love to hear some feedback.
>
> Steve Mullins, Ph.D.
> Associate Professor of Economics
> Drury University
> 417.889.5609 (home)
> 417.873.7299 (office)
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "rob ray" <smokyray(at)yahoo.com>
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV4-List: Prop
>
>
> > --> RV4-List message posted by: rob ray
> >
> > Hi Tom;
> >
> > I also have a 150hp RV4 but the Rose electronic
> > ignition added 150 rpm to my top end so I had to
> > re-tire my Sterba. I bought a used 68X72 Warnke and
> > had it refinished by Margie and I also have a Craig
> > Catto composite 68X70. Both props produce 215 IAS mph
> > top speed @ W2850/C2950 respectively. The Catto is
> > EXTREMELY smooth and bulletproof. The Warnke also
> > works well and seems to "change pitch" inflight. For
> > durability off grass and rough strips, the composite
> > Catto and Carbon Graphite tipped Warnke are great.
> >
> > Rob Ray
> > N557RR
> > --- Thomas Rupe wrote:
> > > --> RV4-List message posted by: Thomas Rupe
> > >
> > >
> > > Dan,
> > > Sounds like you have a climb prop. I have a Felix
> > > 69x69 on the front
> > > end of my 150HP. I like it a lot.
> > >
> > > Tom Rupe
> > > N3882N
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Contributions of
> > > any other form
> > >
> > > latest messages.
> > > other List members.
> > >
> > > http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> > > http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> > > http://www.matronics.com/search
> > > http://www.matronics.com/archives
> > > http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> > Send your FREE holiday greetings online!
> > http://greetings.yahoo.com
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Daniels <jwdanie(at)home.com> |
Hi all,
On the 8, the flap hinge is cut to a length that is an integral number
of hinge sections. Is it preferable to leave the end segments full size
(1/2" to the first joint), or split the difference such that a half segment
is at each end (1/4" to the first joint)? Or is this irrelevant?
Another topic - on the flap inboard rib - how in the heck do I get to those
rivets near the trailing edge? This looks to be a bear, and I doubt any of
my bucking bars are going to cut it. I only have the three Avery bars from
the RV tool kit.
Thanks!
Jim Daniels
Albuquerque, NM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill VonDane" <n8vd(at)earthlink.net> |
"Rv-List(at)Matronics.Com" ,
"Rv8list(at)Egroups.Com"
Jim...
I have found that you can use just about anything as a bucking bar...
On the flaps and ailerons I used the no-hole yoke for my Tatco rivet
squeezer, and I have made a few along the was as well... There are a
couple pictures of the make-shift bucking bars on this page...
http://vondane.com/rv8a/flap/index.htm
Also, I finally got around to getting the xmas card done for this year
-> http://vondane.com
Have a safe and happy holiday season!
-Bill VonDane
Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A - N8VD
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jim Daniels
Subject: RV-List: Flap Hinge
Hi all,
On the 8, the flap hinge is cut to a length that is an integral
number
of hinge sections. Is it preferable to leave the end segments full size
(1/2" to the first joint), or split the difference such that a half
segment
is at each end (1/4" to the first joint)? Or is this irrelevant?
Another topic - on the flap inboard rib - how in the heck do I get to
those
rivets near the trailing edge? This looks to be a bear, and I doubt any
of
my bucking bars are going to cut it. I only have the three Avery bars
from
the RV tool kit.
Thanks!
Jim Daniels
Albuquerque, NM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "F. Parker Thomas" <me(at)parkerthomas.com> |
| Subject: | Firewal Through holes |
Listers -
Saw the recent thread about locating holes in the firewall for the 6. Does
anyone know of a similar diagram for the 8 or am I just missing something in
the plans?
Thanks,
Parker
F. Parker Thomas
PO Box 190894
San Francisco, CA 94119
me(at)parkerthomas.com
----------------------------------------------------
Sign Up for NetZero Platinum Today
Only $9.95 per month!
http://my.netzero.net/s/signup?r=platinum&refcd=PT97
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | Rivnuts vs. NutSerts |
I used both for holding fairings in place. They are fairly easy to install
with "disposable" tools; certainly no harder than nutplates. They fit in a
closely-drilled hole. If the material is not too thick, they might spin in
the hole when you install a screw or bolt. I would go with the "keyed"
version, to prevent spinning, if I use them again.
Steve Soule
Huntington, Vermont
RV-6A N227RV
-----Original Message-----
Browsing the AC Spruce catalog today, looking for an easier
way to secure the
gear leg intersection fairings to the fuselage than tearing
the interior
apart to install platenuts, I came across these two
competing products. Is
there anyone with experioence using both who cares to
comment on which might
work better? I have no install tool for either system, so
the nut-sert
disposable tool would make for a cheaper overall system, IF
it works well. I
need to do about 5 #6 screws in each side of the fuselage,
then I may never
need them again...
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Rivnuts vs. NutSerts |
| From: | Don Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com> |
Use pro seal or JB weld to install them will help them from spinning in
the future.
Don Jordan N6DJ, Arlington,Tx
dons6a(at)juno.com
***************************************
writes:
>
> I used both for holding fairings in place. They are fairly easy to
> install
> with "disposable" tools; certainly no harder than nutplates. They
> fit in a
> closely-drilled hole. If the material is not too thick, they might
> spin in
> the hole when you install a screw or bolt. I would go with the
> "keyed"
> version, to prevent spinning, if I use them again.
>
> Steve Soule
> Huntington, Vermont
> RV-6A N227RV
>
> -----Original Message-----
> Browsing the AC Spruce catalog today, looking for an
> easier
> way to secure the
> gear leg intersection fairings to the fuselage than
> tearing
> the interior
> apart to install platenuts, I came across these two
> competing products. Is
> there anyone with experioence using both who cares
> to
> comment on which might
> work better? I have no install tool for either
> system, so
> the nut-sert
> disposable tool would make for a cheaper overall
> system, IF
> it works well. I
> need to do about 5 #6 screws in each side of the
> fuselage,
> then I may never
> need them again...
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gordon Lomoth" <rv7canuck(at)hotmail.com> |
Hello and Mery Christmas to all
I just thought I should delurk and say hello. I am building an RV7 in
Kitchener, Ontario, Canada. My present arrived last week in the form of 2
crates filled with wing parts from Van's. Boxing day will be inventory day
in this house.
Gord Lomoth
RV7 wings
Join the worlds largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail.
http://www.hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard D. Fogerson" <rickf(at)velocitus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: temporary oil heater |
Does anyone know why can car engines be started orders of magnitude more
often in winter than airplane engines without any apparent damage. Is
preheating an aircraft engine in winter just an old wives tale?
Rick Fogerson
RV3 wings
Boise, ID
----- Original Message -----
From: "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: temporary oil heater
>
> Hi Rion:
>
> It is the portable type, it is an element and blower fan enclosed in a
metal
> container about 2 1/2 inches thick by about 12x12 inches square and plugs
in
> to 110volt outlet. The hot air is blown out one end with a fair velocity,
> like I said all that is required is to get the blower end pointed into the
> lower cowl opening and it does a good job. For temps below say 0 F you are
> probably looking at a hour.
>
> When I can turn the prop freely I start it, just keep the RPM down around
> 1000 to keep the oil pressure down until it starts to warm up. Next time
I
> am in the hangar will get you some better info.
>
> Eustace
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "J. Rion Bourgeois" <rion(at)worldnet.att.net>
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: temporary oil heater
>
>
> >
> > Thanks Eustace. What type of "in-car heater" are you using? Rion
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Eustace Bowhay <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net>
> > To:
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: temporary oil heater
> >
> >
> > >
> > > Hi Rion:
> > >
> > > My thoughts are, putting a heating element directly into the oil would
> > > damage the oil as it would be operating at a temp that would burn the
> oil.
> > >
> > > All I use is a in-car heater inserted from the rear into the scoop on
> the
> > > bottom of the cowling and plug the air intakes with some foam rubber.
At
> > > temperatures in the 10-35F thirty minutes is adequate. On the 6A which
> has
> > > the brace on the scoop I plan to make up a suitable divided extension
or
> > > just set the heater on a stand of the correct height at the back of
the
> > > scoop.
> > > This of course is done with the aircraft in a hangar were there is no
> > wind.
> > >
> > > Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C.
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "RION BOURGEOIS" <rion(at)worldnet.att.net>
> > > To: "rv-list"
> > > Subject: RV-List: temporary oil heater
> > >
> > >
>
> > > >
> > > > Does anyone know of a source for an oil/case heater that can be
> inserted
> > > > down the oil dipstick tube before flight and then removed after the
> oil
> > > and
> > > > case are warm and before flight? Thanx, Rion
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: temporary oil heater |
Car engines have chokes and burn far more volatile gas. Preheating prevents
engine fires, and, secondarily, enhances engine life.
Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP 110 hours
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard D. Fogerson" <rickf(at)velocitus.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: temporary oil heater
>
> Does anyone know why can car engines be started orders of magnitude more
> often in winter than airplane engines without any apparent damage. Is
> preheating an aircraft engine in winter just an old wives tale?
> Rick Fogerson
> RV3 wings
> Boise, ID
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net>
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: temporary oil heater
>
>
> >
> > Hi Rion:
> >
> > It is the portable type, it is an element and blower fan enclosed in a
> metal
> > container about 2 1/2 inches thick by about 12x12 inches square and
plugs
> in
> > to 110volt outlet. The hot air is blown out one end with a fair
velocity,
> > like I said all that is required is to get the blower end pointed into
the
> > lower cowl opening and it does a good job. For temps below say 0 F you
are
> > probably looking at a hour.
> >
> > When I can turn the prop freely I start it, just keep the RPM down
around
> > 1000 to keep the oil pressure down until it starts to warm up. Next
time
> I
> > am in the hangar will get you some better info.
> >
> > Eustace
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "J. Rion Bourgeois" <rion(at)worldnet.att.net>
> > To:
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: temporary oil heater
> >
> >
>
> > >
> > > Thanks Eustace. What type of "in-car heater" are you using? Rion
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: Eustace Bowhay <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net>
> > > To:
> > > Subject: Re: RV-List: temporary oil heater
> > >
> > >
>
> > > >
> > > > Hi Rion:
> > > >
> > > > My thoughts are, putting a heating element directly into the oil
would
> > > > damage the oil as it would be operating at a temp that would burn
the
> > oil.
> > > >
> > > > All I use is a in-car heater inserted from the rear into the scoop
on
> > the
> > > > bottom of the cowling and plug the air intakes with some foam
rubber.
> At
> > > > temperatures in the 10-35F thirty minutes is adequate. On the 6A
which
> > has
> > > > the brace on the scoop I plan to make up a suitable divided
extension
> or
> > > > just set the heater on a stand of the correct height at the back of
> the
> > > > scoop.
> > > > This of course is done with the aircraft in a hangar were there is
no
> > > wind.
> > > >
> > > > Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C.
> > > >
> > > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > > From: "RION BOURGEOIS" <rion(at)worldnet.att.net>
> > > > To: "rv-list"
> > > > Subject: RV-List: temporary oil heater
> > > >
> > > >
> >
> > > > >
> > > > > Does anyone know of a source for an oil/case heater that can be
> > inserted
> > > > > down the oil dipstick tube before flight and then removed after
the
> > oil
> > > > and
> > > > > case are warm and before flight? Thanx, Rion
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: temporary oil heater |
I will put forth an entirely different take. Auto engines are more precise
so the oil doesn't run out of the smaller clearances. Auto engines are
started more frequently so the oil hasn't had time to run out.
With Dennis' conjecture, we should be using car gas instead of the more
precious Aviation grade.
Cy Galley
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: temporary oil heater
Car engines have chokes and burn far more volatile gas. Preheating prevents
engine fires, and, secondarily, enhances engine life.
Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP 110 hours
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard D. Fogerson" <rickf(at)velocitus.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: temporary oil heater
>
> Does anyone know why can car engines be started orders of magnitude more
> often in winter than airplane engines without any apparent damage. Is
> preheating an aircraft engine in winter just an old wives tale?
> Rick Fogerson
> RV3 wings
> Boise, ID
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net>
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: temporary oil heater
>
>
> >
> > Hi Rion:
> >
> > It is the portable type, it is an element and blower fan enclosed in a
> metal
> > container about 2 1/2 inches thick by about 12x12 inches square and
plugs
> in
> > to 110volt outlet. The hot air is blown out one end with a fair
velocity,
> > like I said all that is required is to get the blower end pointed into
the
> > lower cowl opening and it does a good job. For temps below say 0 F you
are
> > probably looking at a hour.
> >
> > When I can turn the prop freely I start it, just keep the RPM down
around
> > 1000 to keep the oil pressure down until it starts to warm up. Next
time
> I
> > am in the hangar will get you some better info.
> >
> > Eustace
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "J. Rion Bourgeois" <rion(at)worldnet.att.net>
> > To:
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: temporary oil heater
> >
> >
>
> > >
> > > Thanks Eustace. What type of "in-car heater" are you using? Rion
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: Eustace Bowhay <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net>
> > > To:
> > > Subject: Re: RV-List: temporary oil heater
> > >
> > >
>
> > > >
> > > > Hi Rion:
> > > >
> > > > My thoughts are, putting a heating element directly into the oil
would
> > > > damage the oil as it would be operating at a temp that would burn
the
> > oil.
> > > >
> > > > All I use is a in-car heater inserted from the rear into the scoop
on
> > the
> > > > bottom of the cowling and plug the air intakes with some foam
rubber.
> At
> > > > temperatures in the 10-35F thirty minutes is adequate. On the 6A
which
> > has
> > > > the brace on the scoop I plan to make up a suitable divided
extension
> or
> > > > just set the heater on a stand of the correct height at the back of
> the
> > > > scoop.
> > > > This of course is done with the aircraft in a hangar were there is
no
> > > wind.
> > > >
> > > > Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C.
> > > >
> > > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > > From: "RION BOURGEOIS" <rion(at)worldnet.att.net>
> > > > To: "rv-list"
> > > > Subject: RV-List: temporary oil heater
> > > >
> > > >
> >
> > > > >
> > > > > Does anyone know of a source for an oil/case heater that can be
> > inserted
> > > > > down the oil dipstick tube before flight and then removed after
the
> > oil
> > > > and
> > > > > case are warm and before flight? Thanx, Rion
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Planejoel(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: My Next Project - A Kit Car |
If this thread is going anywhere I need to see a picture of this car cost etc.
Joe
RV6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joe Hine" <joehine(at)nbnet.nb.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: My Next Project - A Kit Car |
The empty garage syndrome was fixed by a 53 MG-TD in my case which is
verrrrrrry slowly going togeather now. What I really want to do is build
another airplane though. Not too far away I hope.
Joe Hine
RV4 C-FYTQ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gordon or Marge Comfort" <gcomfo(at)tc3net.com> |
| Subject: | Re: My Next Project - A Kit Car |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Randy Lervold" <randy@rv-8.com>
> > some interesting "facts" and a few even more interesting "opinions".
>
> After this reasearch and thought over a couple of months however I'm back
to
> airplanes. I'm still glad to be DONE building for now but know that
feeling
> will pass. So I'll be ready for the next project probably in 2003 and I
> think it will be an F1 Rocket... I just gotta have one of those snarling
> IO-540s. Actually I wish Van's would make an RV-8S which would be a
standard
> RV-8 with a raised turtledeck, sleek canopy to match, beefed fuselage as
> necessary, 300 mph Vne, and a sexy cowling to house that bad boy six
> cylinder. They should offer it in a QB also (my RV-8 was a slow build).
That
> would be a done deal for me. Anyone else interested in such a ship?
>
> Happy Holidays to All!
> Randy Lervold
> www.rv-8.com
Randy: You bet I want a ship like that. In fact, my -8 project is stalled
and I can't tell you exactly why. But when Van was soliciting opinions on
what should be built I suggested they build a fast 2 place using a 540
engine. The suggestion was verbal with Ken Scott at SnF with Buzz Lauritsen
standing by. The response I got was a sneering list of reasons why they
should not do so. At that point I shrugged and turned away. The F1 is
lovely, goes like hell and would be great fun all around. There are some
things I don't care for about it though. Loading options are not as
attractive, the landing gear is integrated with the engine mount etc. The
early Rockets depended on the RV-4 empennage and in my opinion the are not
adequate. I was not keen on splitting the purchase between Van and Harmon.
The F1 was somewhat slow to get to market and by then I was into the -8.
Greg Panzl lives about 15 miles from me and is building aerobatic airplanes
professionally. They weigh between 1200 and 1300 pounds empty and have
angle valve 540's (the heavy ones) that push about 325hp. To watch one of
those (design by Staudecker) climb out is to turn green with envy. I know
some -8's have been build with parallel valve 540's but don't believe they
have been terribly successful. The extra weight and length need a
redesigned airframe. So, if you can talk Van into such a venture you have
my support. The Legacy 2000 is very fast but it is composite and were I to
build one I'd have to find a whole new group of friends. Not an inviting
prospect.
Gordon Comfort
N363GC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dag adamson <dag_adamson(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | bushing in aileron bellcrank - fit? |
Hello-
I used a chucking reemer on the inside of the brass
bushing to accomodate the AN3 bolt, however the
bushing binds slightly in spots on the bellcrank.
Should this bushing completely move freely inside the
crank? or will this eventually work its way with
use...
Should I try to size the outside of the bushing with
sand paper or scotchbright to get it to move inside
the bellcrank more smoothly?
Thanks
-Dag
====
*****************
Dag Adamson
617 513 1182
Natick, MA
*****************
Send your FREE holiday greetings online!
http://greetings.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: bushing in aileron bellcrank - fit? |
Dag
I chucked the bushing in my drill press and gave it a *light* touch with
a schotchbrite pad at low speed. just barely touched the bushing. fitted
fine after that.
However, more likely, the bellcranck is slightly deformed from the
welding process. look inside and you'll most likely see some
discoleration. it doesn't hurt to clean the inside of the bellcrank
before playing with the bushing.
Gert
dag adamson wrote:
>
>
> Hello-
>
> I used a chucking reemer on the inside of the brass
> bushing to accomodate the AN3 bolt, however the
> bushing binds slightly in spots on the bellcrank.
>
> Should this bushing completely move freely inside the
> crank? or will this eventually work its way with
> use...
>
> Should I try to size the outside of the bushing with
> sand paper or scotchbright to get it to move inside
> the bellcrank more smoothly?
>
> Thanks
> -Dag
>
> ====
> *****************
> Dag Adamson
> 617 513 1182
> Natick, MA
> *****************
>
> Send your FREE holiday greetings online!
> http://greetings.yahoo.com
>
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Burton" <dburton(at)nwlink.com> |
| Subject: | Re: My Next Project - A Kit Car |
>
> I've decided to build a kit Cobra 427. So, just as people lurk on this
> list, I've been lurking on the Cobra lists for a month or two to get the
lay
> of the land and see what those people and their kits are like. Here are
> some interesting "facts" and a few even more interesting "opinions".
Merry Christmas all!
I think a LOT about the big block Cobra that my neighbor had for sale
back in the late '60s or early '70s. At the time I could not imagine anyone
paying $3000 for a stripped down convertible without even a radio! Even if
it did come with a flatbed trailer...
Dave "got a fresh V12 Jag engine in the shop looking for a project" Burton
RV6, wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gordon or Marge Comfort" <gcomfo(at)tc3net.com> |
| Subject: | F1 Rocket--fast 2 place |
Randy: I recognize that at least part of what I was hearing was Ken Scott's
bias, but part of his argument was to the effect that such an aircraft would
put them into a performance realm that they didn't want to enter, in part
because of the effects on low speed performance and operating on sod,
unimproved surfaces etc. They seemed to think that such a bird would, if it
is really fast, be hotter than they as company wanted to handle. As far as
the engine mount/gear mount combination, I prefer to get away from that not
because there is anything bad from the functional standpoint about it, but
rather that it confuses an already complex firewall forward area. I have
worked around it on the RV-4 enough to think I'd like something different.
Possibly I will find that the fuselage mounting is possessed of other
difficulties. I concur that the tail feathers on the F1 address the
adequacy opinion I expressed earlier. With regard to insurance, I
understand that insurance is easier to obtain on the F1 than the Harmon
Rocket. Don't know if that is true. I don't even want to think about
insurance for a Legacy 2000. For me, the powerplant situation is quite
vexing. 6 cylinders are preferable, in my mind, over 4 when we get into the
power ranges we're talking about. In any case even if Van decided to design
and kit a fast 2 place, it likely would be a long time coming. It seems
doubtful that he would bring that along concurrently with the 4 place. The
F1 is likely to be the only game in town for quite a while.
Gordon Comfort
N363GC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "F. Parker Thomas" <me(at)parkerthomas.com> |
| Subject: | electrical questions and Merry Christmas |
Listers -
I hope you all had a great Christmas. I had a great one - several members
of my family gave me flying lessons with Mike Seagar.
My goal for the vacation was to have the electrical system for my 8
diagrammed so I can order everything and start installing in early January.
I'm hoping some of you engineering types can help me. I've studied Bob's
bible as if I were going to have a final exam next week. Every time I get a
handle on things my head gets full and the first things in there start
slipping out. Here is where I am stuck:
I've read about the impulse coupler in the Aerolectric Connection and the
Bingelis books. Is this a mechanical creature that functions on its own to
rotate the left mag when the engine is started or does it have to be engaged
somehow when the starter is engaged? Does it disengage when the engine
starts? Engine is an IO360 A1A with Slick mags.
On page 11-18, Bob mentions that two 2-3, on-none-on switches can be wired
to disable the starter except when the impulse coupled mag is on and the
other mag off. Does anyone know how to do that?
I would like to wire the green button on the top of my Infinity stick grip
to engage the starter. I like the idea of requiring the pilot to have a
hand on the stick when the engine starts. At the same time, I would like to
have a starter disengage switch on the panel so the button won't engage the
starter when the engine is running (if hit accidentally). This could be a
separate switch on the panel, something built into the switches in the
question above or built into the oil pressure switch for the hobbs. Does
anyone know how to do that?
Is the button on the Infinity stick powerful enough to handle current to
engage the starter relay or should there be yet another relay between the
two?
On Bob's Z-11 diagram (which I'm using as the basis for mine), he shows the
alternator B lead going back to the starter. Why is this?
On Bob's Z-11 diagram he doesn't list flaps as an essential item (probably
manual flaps). I consider the standard electric flaps on the 8 as essential
to safely completing the flight, at least I sure would like to have them
when landing at an unfamiliar airport at night. Thoughts? Essential or
not?
The B&C overprotection modules that Bob recommends in the book seem to be a
good idea. They incorporate a voltage regulator, overvoltage protection and
a low voltage indicator light. Does anyone out there have any experience
with these?
Has anyone else put a keepwarm circuit in to keep various lights warm and
extend their life as discussed in the Connection? I'm coming down on the
side of too much trouble for the small amount of money saved (new headlight
is $9.50 etc). Any thoughts to the contrary?
Finally, can anyone recommend some shareware or something cheap to make
those cool electrical system diagrams? I find my handwritten drawings leave
a little to be desired.
Many thanks in advance.
Parker
RV-8 N626CT, wings done, tail on, seats in, floor down and starting panel
and electrical
----------------------------------------------------
Sign Up for NetZero Platinum Today
Only $9.95 per month!
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: My Next Project - A Kit Car |
Randy Lervold wrote:
>
> You're getting Ken Scott's bias here. He only has an appreciation for
> "airplanes on the cheap". When discussing anything requiring more money he
> sneers. This is quite unprofessional in my opinion and also not smart... it
> ignores at least half the market.
>
Randy, I can't believe you are saying that. You live in RV country and
go
to the same function as Van and I do. As long as you have been around
RV's
and you don't know Van's philosophy? You should take some time and ask
him what it is, and what market he is looking for with the RV design.
The
F1 and Harmon Rocket along with the Lancair already fill a market for
those
that want to spend more money and go faster. I don't believe it is
unprofessional at all for Ken to stand by the company he works for and
their
design philosophies and goals. Sorry this is off topic for the kit car
thread but I feel it needs to be said.
Jerry Springer
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Calvert" <rv6bldr(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: electrical questions and Merry Christmas |
Go to http://209.134.106.21/articles.html and click on "Appendix Z" then go
to page 20. There is a wiring diagram.
----- Original Message -----
From: F. Parker Thomas <me(at)parkerthomas.com>
Subject: RV-List: electrical questions and Merry Christmas
**snip
>
> On page 11-18, Bob mentions that two 2-3, on-none-on switches can be wired
> to disable the starter except when the impulse coupled mag is on and the
> other mag off. Does anyone know how to do that?
>
**snip
>
> Parker
> RV-8 N626CT, wings done, tail on, seats in, floor down and starting panel
> and electrical
>
> ----------------------------------------------------
> Sign Up for NetZero Platinum Today
> Only $9.95 per month!
> http://my.netzero.net/s/signup?r=platinum&refcd=PT97
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | F1 Rocket (was My Next Project - A Kit Car |
| From: | Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com |
08:38:12 AM
Gord,
I am finishing an old style -6 and starting an F1 Rocket. In fact I'm
almost done with the tail after about 5 weeks. Per the FAA direction the
tail is not prepunched but I can tell you it is a beautifull kit. Mark and
the gang at Team Rocket did a wonderfull job putting this thing together.
The plans are on a CD in Adobe format with lots of pictures that you can
actually see what you need to do. The parts actually fit, unlike my RV-6
where the parts almost fit they way they need to. Wish I had a dollar for
every thing I have had to build in order to make it fit. Gee, just 1/4 inch
more material Van......... Every part is beautifully anodized. Man, its a
lot of fun building once you have been there and dunnit before. I was
actually getting pretty punchy on my six. It was always something, now the
airframe is done so hopfully I'm out of that stage. My plans were to build
an -8 after these two are done, buy why should I dump all that money into a
4 banger when I can easily find a smooth six cylinder for the same cash.
One other thing, Mark Frederick does not bite my head off at airshows when
I ask a question.
Eric
"Gordon or Marge Comfort" (at)matronics.com on 12/25/2001
05:06:59 PM
Please respond to rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: Re: RV-List: My Next Project - A Kit Car
----- Original Message -----
From: "Randy Lervold" <randy@rv-8.com>
> > some interesting "facts" and a few even more interesting "opinions".
>
> After this reasearch and thought over a couple of months however I'm back
to
> airplanes. I'm still glad to be DONE building for now but know that
feeling
> will pass. So I'll be ready for the next project probably in 2003 and I
> think it will be an F1 Rocket... I just gotta have one of those snarling
> IO-540s. Actually I wish Van's would make an RV-8S which would be a
standard
> RV-8 with a raised turtledeck, sleek canopy to match, beefed fuselage as
> necessary, 300 mph Vne, and a sexy cowling to house that bad boy six
> cylinder. They should offer it in a QB also (my RV-8 was a slow build).
That
> would be a done deal for me. Anyone else interested in such a ship?
>
> Happy Holidays to All!
> Randy Lervold
> www.rv-8.com
Randy: You bet I want a ship like that. In fact, my -8 project is stalled
and I can't tell you exactly why. But when Van was soliciting opinions on
what should be built I suggested they build a fast 2 place using a 540
engine. The suggestion was verbal with Ken Scott at SnF with Buzz
Lauritsen
standing by. The response I got was a sneering list of reasons why they
should not do so. At that point I shrugged and turned away. The F1 is
lovely, goes like hell and would be great fun all around. There are some
things I don't care for about it though. Loading options are not as
attractive, the landing gear is integrated with the engine mount etc. The
early Rockets depended on the RV-4 empennage and in my opinion the are not
adequate. I was not keen on splitting the purchase between Van and Harmon.
The F1 was somewhat slow to get to market and by then I was into the -8.
Greg Panzl lives about 15 miles from me and is building aerobatic airplanes
professionally. They weigh between 1200 and 1300 pounds empty and have
angle valve 540's (the heavy ones) that push about 325hp. To watch one of
those (design by Staudecker) climb out is to turn green with envy. I know
some -8's have been build with parallel valve 540's but don't believe they
have been terribly successful. The extra weight and length need a
redesigned airframe. So, if you can talk Van into such a venture you have
my support. The Legacy 2000 is very fast but it is composite and were I to
build one I'd have to find a whole new group of friends. Not an inviting
prospect.
Gordon Comfort
N363GC
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | F1 Rocket--fast 2 place |
| From: | "Bob Japundza" <Bob.Japundza(at)realmed.com> |
Like the Harley people say, if you have to explain it, they wouldn't
understand.
I had a conversation with Ken Scott about my next project (he tried to
turn me on to the -9) and I politely said no friggin thank you. I'm not
badmouthing him or Van's airplanes or the -9 but I want to step up a
level in performance. The F1 is a nice fit for me. I've flown a HR2
and the difference between my 180 C/S -6 and the Rocket is unbelievable.
Takeoffs feel like catapult launches. The slow speed handling and all
around good manners are still there.
The F1 is a refined RV with a better powerplant. Typically the Rockets
I fly with burn less gas at the same cruise speeds than I do. You'll
find many of the Rocket owners have had or built RV's in the past. That
says a lot to me.
Bob Japundza
RV-6 N244BJ O-360C/S flying 260 hours
F1 S/N #80
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: electrical questions and Merry Christmas |
"F. Parker Thomas" wrote:
>
>
> Listers -
>
> I hope you all had a great Christmas. I had a great one - several members
> of my family gave me flying lessons with Mike Seagar.
Very nice present, Parker, you will really enjoy flying with Mike.
> I've read about the impulse coupler in the Aerolectric Connection and the
> Bingelis books. Is this a mechanical creature that functions on its own to
> rotate the left mag when the engine is started or does it have to be engaged
> somehow when the starter is engaged? Does it disengage when the engine
> starts? Engine is an IO360 A1A with Slick mags.
You don't have to worry about "wiring" the mag impulse; it is an
intregal part of the left mag and will do its own thing without your
intervention. It retards the timing at cranking rpm so the engine is
less likely to kick back on starting and damage the starter gear. This
is why the non-coupling mag needs to be "off" until the engine is
running.
>
> On page 11-18, Bob mentions that two 2-3, on-none-on switches can be wired
> to disable the starter except when the impulse coupled mag is on and the
> other mag off. Does anyone know how to do that?
The details are shown in one of the wiring diagrams in Appendix Z.
>
> I would like to wire the green button on the top of my Infinity stick grip
> to engage the starter. I like the idea of requiring the pilot to have a
> hand on the stick when the engine starts. At the same time, I would like to
> have a starter disengage switch on the panel so the button won't engage the
> starter when the engine is running (if hit accidentally). This could be a
> separate switch on the panel, something built into the switches in the
> question above or built into the oil pressure switch for the hobbs. Does
> anyone know how to do that?
>
> Is the button on the Infinity stick powerful enough to handle current to
> engage the starter relay or should there be yet another relay between the
> two?
I have two toggles and a push button in my RV-6 to handle the mags and
starter. My left hand covers the starter button and mag switches, the
right hand is on the throttle. I have had no problems whatsoever with
the tail trying to fly during a start (I make sure every start is at low
rpm!). Having the starter button on the stick is certainly an option for
you but personally I see no reason for it; it would certainly add
complexity to your starter circuit with the extra switch and relay.
> On Bob's Z-11 diagram (which I'm using as the basis for mine), he shows the
> alternator B lead going back to the starter. Why is this?
This is to prevent having to penetrate the firewall with another fat
wire provided your starter contactor is mounted on the engine side of
the firewall. Bob's reasoning is that this will also aid in reducing
alternator noise in the avionics if the fat wire is kept away from the
panel (also why he recommends the big fuse on the B-lead forward of the
firewall instead of a breaker on the panel).
>
> On Bob's Z-11 diagram he doesn't list flaps as an essential item (probably
> manual flaps). I consider the standard electric flaps on the 8 as essential
> to safely completing the flight, at least I sure would like to have them
> when landing at an unfamiliar airport at night. Thoughts? Essential or
> not?
This depends on the pilot! :-)
Flaps are not essential for a safe landing in an RV provided the pilot
has practiced some non-flap landings. One reason I would be hesitant to
include the flaps on the essential bus is that the activation of the
flap motor *might* cause the bus voltage to drop enough to cause
problems with some of the avionics; this would be dependent on the
condition of the battery and how long the flight had lasted with only
the battery powering the essential bus. Since you mentioned night
flight, the battery will taxed much heavier since you would also have
lighting pulling down the battery voltage.
>
> The B&C overprotection modules that Bob recommends in the book seem to be a
> good idea. They incorporate a voltage regulator, overvoltage protection and
> a low voltage indicator light. Does anyone out there have any experience
> with these?
No experience with B&C's unit, but I have been using Bob's OV module for
330 hrs with no problems. You definitely want over-voltage protection of
some sort.
>
> Has anyone else put a keepwarm circuit in to keep various lights warm and
> extend their life as discussed in the Connection? I'm coming down on the
> side of too much trouble for the small amount of money saved (new headlight
> is $9.50 etc). Any thoughts to the contrary?
Don't have it and haven't seen any need for it...........but your
mileage may vary..... :-)
>
> Finally, can anyone recommend some shareware or something cheap to make
> those cool electrical system diagrams? I find my handwritten drawings leave
> a little to be desired.
I ran several copies of Bob's schematic and made revisions by hand
(remember White-Out?) until I had my version, then made copies to keep.
Good luck with finishing up your project!
Sam Buchanan (RV-6 with "Lectric Bob" wiring architecture)
http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal
===========================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "rickjory" <rickjory(at)msn.com> |
Anyone using the Garmin 430 with glide/slope . . . what are you
recommending for the antenna and where (on an 8A) are you locating it?
Thanks in advance,
Rick Jory RV8A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Greg Puckett <rv8er(at)concentric.net> |
Hey Rick,
I ended up using the Commant CI-215 that is supposed to be VOR/Glideslope
and localizer antenna. The price will put a big hurt($259) on the budget but
my UPS SL-30 has a single antenna input for the VOR/LOC/GS with an internal
diplexer and I wanted to keep it simple.
I mounted this V pole antenna on the V/S by adding a doubler plate to the
top rib with ears that rivet to the skin/flange joint. Then used rivnuts for
the 1032 bolts.
Greg Puckett
Elizabeth, Colorado
(303)646-5343
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Boyd C. Braem" <bcbraem(at)home.com> |
"rocket-list(at)matronics.com"
| Subject: | Indicated Airspeed/Standard Departure |
I think that there may be a little bit of urban legend, here.
As far as I can determine from the AIM/FAR, for uncontrolled airports
there is no "standard departure" for VFR aircraft other than following a
published non-standard departure for a particular airport, ie,
right-hand turn or other noise abatement requirements or terrain
clearance. If a departure turn is made, it should be "after reaching pattern
altitude"--does that mean "at" pattern altitude or any time you are "at
or above" pattern altitude?--and, of course, some airports can have up
to three different traffic pattern altitudes (pistons, turboprops and
jets). Of course at a controlled field you follow the guidance of ATC
provided that you agree with and accept their "request". Rumor has it
that ATC expects GA aircraft to climb at Vy until within 500' of their
assigned altitude (at least that's what the CFI's tell me). If so,
then that should be the norm for uncontrolled airports, as well. Max
airspeed for your airspace (200 or 250 kts, depending) is observed.
An FAA representative can request that you contact "so and so" at your
earliest opportunity but he/she cannot make you terminate your flight or
change your flight plan. Now, the Administrator, on the other hand.....
Boyd
Super 6--experimenting with axle camber
SW FL--loving our "cold" spell
David Grover wrote:
>
>
> >
> > I have to agree with Laird but my -6A is not flying yet! At a local
> > uncontrolled airport about a month ago, reportedly a RV-4 driver took off
> > like the description being discussed here. Someone on the radio asked him
> > to return to the airport and discuss the "non-standard" departure. Well,
> > after some verbal exchange, it turned out the caller was an FAA ramp
> > inspector.
> > Food for Thought!
> > Marty in Brentwood TN
>
> Since when is a high angle of attack and/or high rate of climb a
> non-standard departure. When I depart Orange Country / Santa Ana, CA (SNA)
> in a B-737, are standard "non-standard" takeoff requires us to pull up to
> 21 to 25 degrees nose up only to pull off a significant about of power and
> push over the top at 800'agl --- all in the name of noise abatement. What
> about short field takeoffs? Just because a Fed say's it's so doesn't make
> it so (remember Bob Hoover). Being smart and being legal are two different
> things.
>
> David
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | barry pote <barrypote(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Delaware Corp for Registry |
I wonder if anyone on the list has resgistered their RV in the State of
Delaware, using a Delaware Corporation, for the protection and a sales
tax savings? I notice in advertising that there is a 'Delaware Registry'
company advertising in all the airplane magazines.
Barry Pote
RV9a fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Delaware Corp for Registry |
Barry,
I have both my Seneca & 421, and RV Registered in Deleware, You can form a
Deleware Corp and register the aircraft in Deleware. As long as you are not
conducting business in the state where you live, you need not apply for
permission to conduct business in your local state.
New York State gets a one time fee of $175.00 which allows your Deleware Corp
to do business in NY. It may be the same in other states. Since we have a
135 Certificate we had to comply.
Hope it helps
Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bryan" <tim(at)bryantechnology.com> |
| Subject: | Mounting Engine? |
Hello All,
I recently received my AeroSport engine and wondering about when to hang it.
I would like to identify where all the cables go through the firewall, and
how everything will mount. I would also like to mount and drill holes
without the engine in the way. I am installing an 0360 A1A with a constant
speed prop. I also do not have my govenor yet.
What is the likelihood that if I hund it I would have to remove it again
anyway? Should I just figure on hanging the engine - figuring everything
out and then taking it off again?
Thanks
Tim Bryan
RV-6 slider (N616TB Reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV4" <VansRV4GRVMJ(at)btinternet.com> |
Hi All,
Does anyone know whether or not the O-360 A1A and -360-A3A use the same
cylinders?
Thanks,
Marcel
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Weiler" <doug.weiler(at)pressenter.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Mounting Engine? |
Tim:
I personally did not drill any holes prior to hanging my Aerosport engine on
my -4. I then drilled from the inside out. I'm not sure if that is as
easily done on the -6 as the -4.
I would definitely try to install the governor prior to installation. It
can be done, but is much easier. Do be sure you have the correct oil
pressure fitting installed prior to engine installation. That is next to
impossible to install after installation. Actually the -6 has so much more
room than the -4, that you shouldn't have much trouble. But I would
definitely not plan to remove it once installed. It is a pain!!
Doug Weiler
RV-4
>
> I recently received my AeroSport engine and wondering about when to hang
it.
> I would like to identify where all the cables go through the firewall,
and
> how everything will mount. I would also like to mount and drill holes
> without the engine in the way. I am installing an 0360 A1A with a
constant
> speed prop. I also do not have my govenor yet.
>
> What is the likelihood that if I hund it I would have to remove it again
> anyway? Should I just figure on hanging the engine - figuring everything
> out and then taking it off again?
>
________________________________________________________________________________
The parallel-valve O-360's (angle-valve IO-360 is totally different) will
use either narrow-deck or wide-deck cylinders depending on the case style.
The narrow-deck style uses an internal hex nut on the cylinder base studs
while the wide-deck uses a normal hex nut. If both engines are the same
style then the cylinders are the same. The narrow-deck is the older style
case. There doesn't seem to be any reliability difference between the styles
but the narrow-deck will need slight mods to the baffle kit and does not
have a boss on the case to mount the alternator bracket so it needs a
special case mount bracket (extra $90 from B&C).
Regards,
Greg Young
RV-6 N6GY RIP
searching for Navion...
>
> Hi All,
>
> Does anyone know whether or not the O-360 A1A and -360-A3A
> use the same
> cylinders?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Marcel
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Mounting Engine? |
Tim,
I'd recommend bolting the mount to the engine first. You can even do it with
the engine dangling from a hoist although others have said laying the mount
on the floor works better. Then bolt the mount to the firewall. Plan on
doing it twice (or more). It won't take more than an hour to remove and
remount to the firewall the second time and it will save you multiple hours
fretting about hole locations and how to work around the engine/mount to
drill holes and mount everything.
Regards,
Greg Young
RV-6 N6GY RIP
searching for Navion...
>
>
> Hello All,
>
> I recently received my AeroSport engine and wondering about
> when to hang it.
> I would like to identify where all the cables go through the
> firewall, and
> how everything will mount. I would also like to mount and drill holes
> without the engine in the way. I am installing an 0360 A1A
> with a constant
> speed prop. I also do not have my govenor yet.
>
> What is the likelihood that if I hund it I would have to
> remove it again
> anyway? Should I just figure on hanging the engine -
> figuring everything
> out and then taking it off again?
>
> Thanks
> Tim Bryan
> RV-6 slider (N616TB Reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pacific Mooney" <keith(at)pacificmooney.com> |
| Subject: | Delaware Corp for Registry |
I face the sales-tax issue in most of my transactions and have done quite a
lot of research. When people are buying $500k-$600K aircraft for personal
use and are faced with a $45,000+ sales tax bill, they tend to get
aggressive in finding alternatives.
Every situation I have researched comes down to the amount of exposure you
are willing to accept relative to your relationship with the
local/state/federal taxman.
Each state treats the *taxing* of aircraft a little differently. In the case
of Washington, the *use tax* is the same as the sales tax and you are
assessed the tax regardless of where or when you bought the aircraft.
California has a goofy law that says there will be no tax as long as you
keep the aircraft out of the state for 90 days from the date of purchase.
The best reason I have seen for doing the Delaware thing is that it add a
layer to the personal liability between you and the aircraft.
My best advice is to check with the department of revenue and Aviation
division for your state and give them a *hypothetical (I know a guy who...)*
scenario and see what they say.
Keith Vasey
-8QB
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of barry pote
Subject: RV-List: Delaware Corp for Registry
I wonder if anyone on the list has resgistered their RV in the State of
Delaware, using a Delaware Corporation, for the protection and a sales
tax savings? I notice in advertising that there is a 'Delaware Registry'
company advertising in all the airplane magazines.
Barry Pote
RV9a fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Mounting Engine? |
My O360A1A from Bart was on and off about 2 dozen times to establish
penetration points and drill holes. We merely adjusted the engine hoist so
there was very little weight on the mounting bolts and slid it on and off,
engine still attached to mount. It took us about 3 minutes to loosen four
nuts on the mount to slide it off. It is ideally a two-person job but I did
it alone many times.
Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP 110 hours
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Bryan" <tim(at)bryantechnology.com>
Subject: RV-List: Mounting Engine?
>
>
> Hello All,
>
> I recently received my AeroSport engine and wondering about when to hang
it.
> I would like to identify where all the cables go through the firewall,
and
> how everything will mount. I would also like to mount and drill holes
> without the engine in the way. I am installing an 0360 A1A with a
constant
> speed prop. I also do not have my govenor yet.
>
> What is the likelihood that if I hund it I would have to remove it again
> anyway? Should I just figure on hanging the engine - figuring everything
> out and then taking it off again?
>
> Thanks
> Tim Bryan
> RV-6 slider (N616TB Reserved)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
posted by: "rickjory"
>
> Anyone using the Garmin 430 with glide/slope . . . what are you
> recommending for the antenna and where (on an 8A) are you locating it?
> Thanks in advance,
Rick, why not use a Bob Archer (Sportcraft Antennas, I believe) wingtip
VOR/GS/LOC antenna? Completely out of the breeze, one coax to the splitter
near the 430. You will line up 11 feet off runway centerline, however.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
6A N66AP flying 68 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael J. Robbins" <kitfox(at)gte.net> |
| Subject: | Removing Crankshaft Plug-New Engine |
How does one remove the plug in the crankshaft of a new O-360 for a C/S
prop? I tried tapping it with a punch but it doesn't move. Don't want
to get too aggressive.
Thanks.
Mike Robbins
RV8Q 80591 N88MJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael J. Robbins" <kitfox(at)gte.net> |
Rick;
I will be using Bob Archer's antenna in a wing tip, as suggested by Alex in
his post. Haven't installed the antenna yet so can't give you a performance
report. I will be using a strip of copper tape in the other wing tip for
the marker beacon antenna. The 430, splitter, and cables are in place.
Mike Robbins
RV8Q 80591 N88MJ
----- Original Message -----
From: "rickjory" <rickjory(at)msn.com>
Subject: RV-List: G/S Antenna
>
> Anyone using the Garmin 430 with glide/slope . . . what are you
> recommending for the antenna and where (on an 8A) are you locating it?
> Thanks in advance,
> Rick Jory RV8A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael J. Robbins" <kitfox(at)gte.net> |
----- Original Message -----
From: "rickjory" <rickjory(at)msn.com>
Subject: RV-List: G/S Antenna
>
> Anyone using the Garmin 430 with glide/slope . . . what are you
> recommending for the antenna and where (on an 8A) are you locating it?
> Thanks in advance,
> Rick Jory RV8A
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | Delaware Corp for Registry |
I looked into it very briefly, but couldn't find a real benefit to it.
You probably understand it better than I. Can you explain?
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of barry pote
> Sent: Wednesday, December 26, 2001 2:56 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Delaware Corp for Registry
>
>
>
> I wonder if anyone on the list has resgistered their RV in
> the State of Delaware, using a Delaware Corporation, for the
> protection and a sales tax savings? I notice in advertising
> that there is a 'Delaware Registry' company advertising in
> all the airplane magazines.
>
> Barry Pote
> RV9a fuselage
>
>
> ==========
> ==========
> ==========
> ==========
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Karen Gooding <GOODING(at)hargray.com> |
| Subject: | Delaware Corp for Registry |
We formed a Delaware corp and registered all our planes to it when the
county billed us over $2,000 a year for property tax on a 1948 PA-17 and
1961 Skyhawk. Oklahoma City reports the addresses of a/c registrations to
the states, the counties get the info in turn and send out property tax
bills. We have had the Delaware corp for about 6 years now, works exactly
as advertised. Costs about $75 a year to maintain it. With the RV-6 and
J-3S added to the fleet I figure our savings around $5,000 a year.
Karen Gooding
The Bucking Bar Queen
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Don Mack" <don(at)dmack.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Removing Crankshaft Plug-New Engine |
What my IA had me do was take the round part of a ballpeen (sp?) hammer and
place it against the cap Hit the flat part of the hammer with another hammer
and in came out with just a few taps.
Don Mack
RV-6A finishing
don(at)dmack.net www.dmack.net
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael J. Robbins" <kitfox(at)gte.net>
Subject: RV-List: Removing Crankshaft Plug-New Engine
>
> How does one remove the plug in the crankshaft of a new O-360 for a C/S
> prop? I tried tapping it with a punch but it doesn't move. Don't want
> to get too aggressive.
>
> Thanks.
>
> Mike Robbins
> RV8Q 80591 N88MJ
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert McCallum <robert.mccallum2(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Removing Crankshaft Plug-New Engine |
Listers:
STOP!!!!!! Hitting one hammer with another is one of the most DANGEROUS things
you can do with hand
tools. Hammer faces are hardened and striking one piece of hardened steel with
another is just as
likely as not to cause one of the pieces to chip. That chip WILL be moving with
the speed of a
bullet and it WILL penetrate your body if that's what is in the way. DON'T DO THIS
EVER!!!!! If it's
your eye you are now blind in that eye. I'm speaking from experience here, having
done almost
exactly what is being described in order to dish a piece of aluminium. Luckily
for me the hammers
were at waist level and the chip only penetrated my stomach about 3/8 of an inch
(after passing
through my heavy flannel shirt) and I was able to retrieve it with tweezers. If
it's your eye you
won't be so fortunate. DON'T DO THIS !!!!!!!!
Bob McC
Don Mack wrote:
>
> What my IA had me do was take the round part of a ballpeen (sp?) hammer and
> place it against the cap Hit the flat part of the hammer with another hammer
> and in came out with just a few taps.
>
> Don Mack
> RV-6A finishing
> don(at)dmack.net www.dmack.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "F. Parker Thomas" <me(at)parkerthomas.com> |
| Subject: | electrical questions and Merry Christmas |
Listers -
I hope you all had a great Christmas. I had a great one - several members
of my family gave me flying lessons with Mike Seagar.
My goal for the vacation was to have the electrical system for my 8
diagrammed so I can order everything and start installing in early January.
I'm hoping some of you engineering types can help me. I've studied Bob's
bible as if I were going to have a final exam next week. Every time I get a
handle on things my head gets full and the first things in there start
slipping out. Here is where I am stuck:
I've read about the impulse coupler in the Aerolectric Connection and the
Bingelis books. Is this a mechanical creature that functions on its own to
rotate the left mag when the engine is started or does it have to be engaged
somehow when the starter is engaged? Does it disengage when the engine
starts? Engine is an IO360 A1A with Slick mags.
On page 11-18, Bob mentions that two 2-3, on-none-on switches can be wired
to disable the starter except when the impulse coupled mag is on and the
other mag off. Does anyone know how to do that?
I would like to wire the green button on the top of my Infinity stick grip
to engage the starter. I like the idea of requiring the pilot to have a
hand on the stick when the engine starts. At the same time, I would like to
have a starter disengage switch on the panel so the button won't engage the
starter when the engine is running (if hit accidentally). This could be a
separate switch on the panel, something built into the switches in the
question above or built into the oil pressure switch for the hobbs. Does
anyone know how to do that?
Is the button on the Infinity stick powerful enough to handle current to
engage the starter relay or should there be yet another relay between the
two?
On Bob's Z-11 diagram (which I'm using as the basis for mine), he shows the
alternator B lead going back to the starter. Why is this?
On Bob's Z-11 diagram he doesn't list flaps as an essential item (probably
manual flaps). I consider the standard electric flaps on the 8 as essential
to safely completing the flight, at least I sure would like to have them
when landing at an unfamiliar airport at night. Thoughts? Essential or
not?
The B&C overprotection modules that Bob recommends in the book seem to be a
good idea. They incorporate a voltage regulator, overvoltage protection and
a low voltage indicator light. Does anyone out there have any experience
with these?
Has anyone else put a keepwarm circuit in to keep various lights warm and
extend their life as discussed in the Connection? I'm coming down on the
side of too much trouble for the small amount of money saved (new headlight
is $9.50 etc). Any thoughts to the contrary?
Finally, can anyone recommend some shareware or something cheap to make
those cool electrical system diagrams? I find my handwritten drawings leave
a little to be desired.
Many thanks in advance.
Parker
RV-8 N626CT, wings done, tail on, seats in, floor down and starting panel
and electrical
----------------------------------------------------
Sign Up for NetZero Platinum Today
Only $9.95 per month!
http://my.netzero.net/s/signup?r=platinum&refcd=PT97
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Balone Marine <balone_99(at)yahoo.com> |
Whats with the Kit Car thing I thought this was a A/C
orinentated sight.
Send your FREE holiday greetings online!
http://greetings.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Preheating Airplane Engines (was temporary oil heater) |
I consider myself a novice when it comes to airplane engines, but it
is my understanding that the primary reason for preheating a cold
soaked engine is to prevent accelerated engine wear. The aluminum and
steel parts of an airplane engine have different coefficients of
thermal expansion. At cold temperatures, the the design clearance
(for the oil film) between adjacent aluminum and steel parts
disappears because the aluminum contracts more than the steel, and you
get metal rubbing on metal.
Mike Busch wrote an excellent article on this issue for AVWEB. See it
at http://www.avweb.com/articles/preheat.html
Mark Nielsen
RV-6, 700 hours
Green Bay, WI
> ____________________________________________________________
> ____________________
> From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: temporary oil heater
>
>
> I will put forth an entirely different take. Auto engines
> are more precise
> so the oil doesn't run out of the smaller clearances. Auto
> engines are
> started more frequently so the oil hasn't had time to run out.
>
> With Dennis' conjecture, we should be using car gas instead
> of the more
> precious Aviation grade.
>
> Cy Galley
> Editor, EAA Safety Programs
> cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk(at)worldnet.att.net>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: temporary oil heater
>
>
>
>
> Car engines have chokes and burn far more volatile gas.
> Preheating prevents
> engine fires, and, secondarily, enhances engine life.
>
> Dennis Persyk 6A N600DP 110 hours
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Richard D. Fogerson" <rickf(at)velocitus.net>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: temporary oil heater
>
>
>
> >
> > Does anyone know why can car engines be started orders of
> magnitude more
> > often in winter than airplane engines without any
> apparent damage. Is
> > preheating an aircraft engine in winter just an old wives tale?
> > Rick Fogerson
> > RV3 wings
> > Boise, ID
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mark Schrimmer <mschrimmer(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | California Sales Tax |
>California has a goofy law that says there will be no tax as long as you
>keep the aircraft out of the state for 90 days from the date of purchase.
Does anybody from California know more about this?
Mark Schrimmer
RV-9A Wings
Irvine, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mark Schrimmer <mschrimmer(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | California Sales Tax |
>California has a goofy law that says there will be no tax as long as you
>keep the aircraft out of the state for 90 days from the date of purchase.
Does anybody from California know more about this?
Mark Schrimmer
RV-9A Wings
Irvine, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Berryhill" <berryhill1911(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Portable Com or Nav/Coms? |
I searched the archives but couldn't find any clear favorite hand held
nav/com. There are reviews of several Icomat at AVweb but not of any
others.
Does anyone have any likes or dislikes of the various hand helds? Is it
worth spending the extra money for a Nav/Com or should I just look at Coms?
I see that Sporty's has reduced their Nav/Com to $295.
Dave Berryhill
Join the worlds largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail.
http://www.hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: O-360 cylinders |
| From: | "Bob Lueder" <Blueder(at)SUPERIORAIRPARTS.COM> |
12/27/2001 09:53:08 AM
yes they do. You just need to determine whether they are narrow or wide
deck
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ollie Washburn" <skybolt-aviator(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Portable Com or Nav/Coms? |
Navcoms--------When looking at Sportys cheaper price CHECK the accesories
that come with it compared to the others.I am well satisfied with my older
Icom 22 and now they have the smaller one.
Ollie&Lorene Washburn
RV6-A,N795LW,@ 97FL
Loves Airpark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming(at)sigecom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Superior Kit Engine? |
Here is a reply I got from Mattituck on the XP360:
Thank you for your e-mail.. The "you build" kit is sold 2 ways. The engine
kit w/o accessories is $16,990.00, and the accessory kit is $3,200.00 So,
the total engine kit would be $20,190.00 and you have a parts warranty of 6
months. The other way is we at Mattituck can assemble the entire engine for
you (engine & accessories) for $22,000.00. This way you would have a parts
and labor warranty of 250 hrs or 2.5 years, whichever comes first.
The kit would be shipped to you from Dallas, Texas and freight would be
extra. The engine built by Mattituck includes freight
shipped anywhere in the 48 states.
Regards,
Mike Yousik
----- Original Message -----
From: "Charles L. Cotton" <charles(at)cottonfamily.com>
Subject: RV-List: Superior Kit Engine?
>
> I hope I wasn't dreaming this, but I recall reading an article not too
long
> ago about Superior Air Parts, Inc. putting out a kit engine for
> experimental aircraft. (I'm not talking about their XP-360 series.) As I
> recall, the article said an O-360 (perhaps an IO-360) was something like
> $16,000, but I don't know what that included in the way of accessories, if
> anything. Also, the article said there would be "classes" for purchasers
> to take and assemble their engines with Superior mechanics looking over
> their shoulders.
>
> Does anyone else recall this article?
>
> Thanks,
> Chas.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rob Prior <rv7(at)b4.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Superior Kit Engine? |
Bastards. Sounds to me like they're pricing it so it makes no sense to
buy the kit... Only $1800 for assembly, shipping, and 250 hour/2.5 year
warranty? Who won't go for that? After spending $50K on your aircraft,
another $2K just to get the engine assembled professionally and a
significant warranty on it sounds like a pretty good investment.
From a business standpoint, it makes complete sense what they're doing.
By selling assembled engines, they don't need to staff a technical
support line so people can call in and ask how to assemble their kit.
But it'd be nice if there was an option to buy the engine kit with no
support or warranty, at a reduced cost (like the $16K that was
originally bandied about when this engine was first mentioned in the
press a year or so ago), for those of us willing to take that risk.
At the $22K US price point, i'll be buying a used (Canadian) engine
before I go anywhere near this one, despite how much i'd like it...
-RB4
RV7 (empennage)
rv7 "at" b4.ca
LarryRobertHelming wrote:
>
>
> Here is a reply I got from Mattituck on the XP360:
>
> Thank you for your e-mail.. The "you build" kit is sold 2 ways. The engine
> kit w/o accessories is $16,990.00, and the accessory kit is $3,200.00 So,
> the total engine kit would be $20,190.00 and you have a parts warranty of 6
> months. The other way is we at Mattituck can assemble the entire engine for
> you (engine & accessories) for $22,000.00. This way you would have a parts
> and labor warranty of 250 hrs or 2.5 years, whichever comes first.
>
> The kit would be shipped to you from Dallas, Texas and freight would be
> extra. The engine built by Mattituck includes freight
> shipped anywhere in the 48 states.
>
> Regards,
> Mike Yousik
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Tate" <tate(at)onlinemac.com> |
| Subject: | Portable Com or Nav/Coms? |
After using my Icom 22 on two trips and seeing the VOR antenna every time
before the radio locked onto it I wasn't overly impressed. When I asked the
rep at their display set up at Arlington WA air show I was told not to
expect much better. This was with external antenna. The voice receive and
transmit worked great. The model with no VOR has much larger display
characters. It's a no brainier which way I'd go if I had it to do over
again.
Ed Tate
NW Oregon
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Removing Crankshaft Plug-New Engine |
| From: | James Freeman <flyeyes(at)bellsouth.net> |
On Wednesday, December 26, 2001, at 09:14 PM, Robert McCallum wrote:
> STOP!!!!!! Hitting one hammer with another is one of the most DANGEROUS
> things you can do with hand
> tools. Hammer faces are hardened and striking one piece of hardened steel
> with another is just as
> likely as not to cause one of the pieces to chip. That chip WILL be
> moving with the speed of a
> bullet and it WILL penetrate your body if that's what is in the way. DON'
> T DO THIS EVER!!!!! If it's
> your eye you are now blind in that eye. I'm speaking from experience here,
> having done almost
> exactly what is being described in order to dish a piece of aluminium.
I have to second this. As an ophthalmologist, I give my "safety glasses"
speech several times a day. I've spent way too many of my nights in
operating rooms fighting an uphill battle to attempt to repair eyes after
"just one more whack" with the hammer when the right tool would have been
a hydraulic press.
Robert is exactly right--hitting two pieces of hardened steel together is
an amazingly efficient way to liberate a sharp fragment at high speed. I
have seen these not only penetrate eyes but actually exit the back side of
the globe.
Fortunately, polycarbonate (e.g. Lexan) safety glasses are sturdy enough
to take a lot of abuse, even (literally) stopping small caliber handgun
bullets and shotgun pellets.
Let's be careful out there ;-)
James Freeman
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Portable Com or Nav/Coms? |
| From: | Denis Walsh <deniswalsh(at)earthlink.net> |
on 12/27/01 14:51, Ed Tate at tate(at)onlinemac.com wrote:
>
> After using my Icom 22 on two trips and seeing the VOR antenna every time
> before the radio locked onto it I wasn't overly impressed. When I asked the
> rep at their display set up at Arlington WA air show I was told not to
> expect much better. This was with external antenna. The voice receive and
> transmit worked great. The model with no VOR has much larger display
> characters. It's a no brainier which way I'd go if I had it to do over
> again.
> Ed Tate
> NW Oregon
>
Ditto for me. Skip the Vor. My Icom has it but I have never used it;
however did come back from Florida to Colorado with it as my only comm,
using the built in antenna.
The reason I was on backup was the demise of my KLX-135A, which is a
combined radio too (GPS/Comm)
D Walsh
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen Johnson" <spjohnsn(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Portable Com or Nav/Coms? |
I must be the odd man out. I have an ancient Narco handheld with VOR and I
used it with good success in my Citabria with external antenna flying from
Minnesota all the way to California back in 1990. Have things gone
downhill?
Steve Johnson
RV-8 finishing wings
----- Original Message -----
From: "Denis Walsh" <deniswalsh(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Portable Com or Nav/Coms?
>
> on 12/27/01 14:51, Ed Tate at tate(at)onlinemac.com wrote:
>
> >
> > After using my Icom 22 on two trips and seeing the VOR antenna every
time
> > before the radio locked onto it I wasn't overly impressed. When I asked
the
> > rep at their display set up at Arlington WA air show I was told not to
> > expect much better. This was with external antenna. The voice receive
and
> > transmit worked great. The model with no VOR has much larger display
> > characters. It's a no brainier which way I'd go if I had it to do over
> > again.
> > Ed Tate
> > NW Oregon
> >
> Ditto for me. Skip the Vor. My Icom has it but I have never used it;
> however did come back from Florida to Colorado with it as my only comm,
> using the built in antenna.
>
> The reason I was on backup was the demise of my KLX-135A, which is a
> combined radio too (GPS/Comm)
>
> D Walsh
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us> |
As I understand it you can get a exemption from EAA to rent your
aircraft
for compensation to another person for transition training.
Jerry Springer
CFI
Wow,
I just can't seem to imagine the Administrator allowing anyone other than
the FAA to issue exemptions to the FARs. I wouldn't be suprised if some of
the local FSDO's do issue exemptions, as they are allowed to do this, but it
is not required on their part, and I would put good money that many of them
don't, with respect to this issue. The Inspector who does this would be
putting themselves at great liability risk.
W
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)earthlink.net> |
Wheeler North wrote:
>
>
> As I understand it you can get a exemption from EAA to rent your
> aircraft
> for compensation to another person for transition training.
>
> Jerry Springer
> CFI
>
> Wow,
> I just can't seem to imagine the Administrator allowing anyone other than
> the FAA to issue exemptions to the FARs. I wouldn't be suprised if some of
> the local FSDO's do issue exemptions, as they are allowed to do this, but it
> is not required on their part, and I would put good money that many of them
> don't, with respect to this issue. The Inspector who does this would be
> putting themselves at great liability risk.
>
> W
>
According to December Sport Aviation the EAA can grant this under
FAA exemption 7162A. You can apply for this exemption by calling EAA
safety programs at 888-322-4636, ext 6864.
Jerry Springer
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com> |
| Subject: | Unimproved Runways |
Hi All,
Once again I need your collective experience. My father is seriously
thinking of starting an RV-7, he's made up his mind except for a couple of
things. Since my plane is not quite finished, I couldn't accurately answer
them, and figured you guys could.
He lives on a ranch and routinely flys off of unimproved "strips" in the
desert of western South Dakota. Many times these are dirt roads or just
plain pastures. He's used to flying a citabria which handles just about
everything on 600x6's and is a bit concerned about 500x5's and the small
tailwheel. The question is: has anyone flown off of very bumpy strips
(without the wheelpants) and had any problems?? He's wondering if it would
be better in that instance to go with the taildragger or nosewheel?? We're
not talking ploughed fields, just bumpy pastures.
Also, many areas only have 1000-1500' to work with, so visibility is an
issue with him. He's wondering if the visibility is a problem in the
taildragger on extremely short strips??
Any help Y'all can give me would be great! His normal use would be checking
cows over about 20,000-30,000 acres, mild aerobatics, and medium x-country
trips. He's already decided that most other homebuilts are just too ugly
and slow. Most of the time he'll be landing on decent grass or gravel, so
it's not a huge problem, just a question. He does'nt need a sherpa or
storch!
Thanks and happy holidays,
Stein Bruch
RV6, Minneapolis.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael J. Robbins" <kitfox(at)gte.net> |
| Subject: | Removing Crankshaft Plug |
Thanks all for your helpful responses. Got it out successfully today by
using a 1/4" punch ground to a pencil like point, punching a hole dead
center in the plug, then, with the punch not quite all the way driven
into the hole, worked it side to side and it came right out. One thing
I didn't know is that there is a lip behind the plug, so don't punch it
near the edge hoping to bend it back (like I tried at first).
Mike Robbins
RV8Q
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Unimproved Runways |
Stein Bruch said:
> The question is: has anyone flown off of very bumpy strips
> (without the wheelpants) and had any problems?? He's wondering if it
would
> be better in that instance to go with the taildragger or nosewheel??
We're
> not talking ploughed fields, just bumpy pastures.
I have flown into and out of some bumpy strips, including 2 or 3 that I
really wouldn't go into again with my -6. I would be hesitant to go into
very bumpy strips on a regular basis (if at all) with my RV. Those little
wheels really do limit the type of surface you want to land on. Reasonably
well-maintained gravel, dirt or grass is fine but when it gets into bumpy
pasture-like strips I'd stay away. You really get slammed around with
anything very bumpy and I'd be worried about buckling the firewall or
bending the airframe. Don't know what it would really take to do so but I
don't want to find out either! There has been discussion of developing a
larger wheel/tire option for the -6 on this list in the past, but I don't
think anything ever came of that.
For short/soft fields I definitely would recommend the tailwheel version.
The nosewheel on the RVs is a good one but I know of -A models that have
nosed over in gopher holes and such, which would definitely ruin your whole
day. Visibility is decent in a tailwheel RV-6 -- of course not as good as
the nosewheel but plenty good for tracking down the runway IMHO.
1000-1500' is well within the RV-6 (and -7 I'm sure) capability assuming
proper techniques and training.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~300 hrs)
Portland, OR
www.vanshomewing.org
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Unimproved Runways |
In a message dated 12/27/01 11:13:22 PM Eastern Standard Time,
randallh(at)attbi.com writes:
<< There has been discussion of developing a
larger wheel/tire option for the -6 on this list in the past, but I don't
think anything ever came of that. >>
Didn't Van's put 6x6's on one of their prototypes? I seem to remember that
they eventually changed back to the 5x5's, and dismissed the idea as not much
of an improvement in rough/soft field utility. They also noted the added
weight and drag the rest of the time.
Kyle Boatright
0-320/Aymar Demuth RV-6 Slider
Kennesaw, GA
http://www.angelfire.com/my/rv6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)attbi.com> |
> > Anyone using the Garmin 430 with glide/slope . . . what are you
> > recommending for the antenna and where (on an 8A) are you locating it?
> > Thanks in advance,
> > Rick Jory RV8A
Not using a Garmin, but my set-up is a VOR "Cat-Whisker" antenna, attached
to the fuselage under the H-Stab, with a splitter to feed both the VOR and
G/S receivers. It works quite well. I pointed the whiskers aft to avoid
catching it on tall grass, etc. Probably not an issue with an -8A tho.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~300 hrs)
Portland, OR
www.vanshomewing.org
________________________________________________________________________________
>Does anyone have any likes or dislikes of the various hand helds?=A0 Is it
worth spending the extra money for a Nav/Com or should I just look at Coms?=A0
I see that Sporty's has reduced their Nav/Com to $295.
Dave Berryhill
I bought an Icom A-23 last year at Sun-n-Fun, and I like it a lot. Very easy
to use, nice features, and the battery lasts a LONG time. I paid $400. With
headsets on, I swear it's as good a radio as a panel-mount. Very small and
compact. However, if Sporty's had the present price advertised when I bought
the Icom, I might have gone with theirs instead, because they have the only
handheld on the market that'll track a localizer. That's the only deficiency
of my Icom. I do like having a little nav capability available in the
hand-held, even tho I have a handheld GPS. I have not tried tracking a nav
signal with this radio yet.
Ed Winne
RV-9A wings/fuse
Palmyra PA
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Van's Philosophy W.R.T. souped-up RV-8 (was re: kit-car junk) |
I WOULD BET HE IS ALREADY LOOKING AT IT-TOM DNA
Thomas M. Whelan
Whelan Farms Airport
Post Office Box 426
249 Hard Hill Road North
Bethlehem, CT 06751
PH 203-266-5300
FAX 203-266-5140
e-mail wfact01(at)aol.com
EAA Chapter 1097, President
RV-8 IO-540 LYC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dag adamson <dag_adamson(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | RE:Superior Kit engine? |
I am on a wait list for a minimum 6 month lead time
for an IO 360 with SportAero. They told me parts are
too hard to come by - they said that they could get
their 0-360 in 3 weeks.
-Dag
====
*****************
Dag Adamson
617 513 1182
Natick, MA
*****************
Send your FREE holiday greetings online!
http://greetings.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bernie Kerr" <kerrjb(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Unimproved Runways |
Stein,
There was an RV6A with very large wheels and tires at SnF last year. He flew
out of rough short strips in Idaho. Sorry that I can not give you his name.
Maybe someone else on the list knows the owner so that you could talk to him
regarding his experience. If you do the nose gear, you would have to make a
new castoring yoke since the stock one will not accept anything larger.
Bernie Kerr, 250 hours, 6A , SE Fla
Subject: RV-List: Unimproved Runways
> He lives on a ranch and routinely flys off of unimproved "strips" in the
> desert of western South Dakota. Many times these are dirt roads or just
> plain pastures. He's used to flying a citabria which handles just about
> everything on 600x6's and is a bit concerned about 500x5's and the small
> tailwheel. The question is: has anyone flown off of very bumpy strips
> (without the wheelpants) and had any problems??
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: handheld radio |
Concur with the A-23 (love it - once you get thru the documentation).
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A ($& hours)
Niantic, CT
>From: Ewinne(at)aol.com
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: handheld radio
>Date: Fri, 28 Dec 2001 07:50:14 EST
>
>
> >Does anyone have any likes or dislikes of the various hand helds?=A0 Is
>it
>worth spending the extra money for a Nav/Com or should I just look at
>Coms?>=A0
>I see that Sporty's has reduced their Nav/Com to $295.
>
>Dave Berryhill
>
>I bought an Icom A-23 last year at Sun-n-Fun, and I like it a lot. Very
>easy>
>to use, nice features, and the battery lasts a LONG time. I paid $400. With
>headsets on, I swear it's as good a radio as a panel-mount. Very small and
>compact. However, if Sporty's had the present price advertised when I
>bought>
>the Icom, I might have gone with theirs instead, because they have the only
>handheld on the market that'll track a localizer. That's the only
>deficiency>
>of my Icom. I do like having a little nav capability available in the
>hand-held, even tho I have a handheld GPS. I have not tried tracking a nav
>signal with this radio yet.
>
>Ed Winne
>RV-9A wings/fuse
>Palmyra PA
>
>
Join the worlds largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail.
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Unimproved Runways |
Hi Stein,
It seems I recall that some British RV builders have gone to 600
wheel/tires on their RVs in order to more easily operation on grass strips.
That might be an acceptable solution. I can't recall where I read it -
could have been Rvator or Sport Aviation.
Ed Anderson
Subject: Re: RV-List: Unimproved Runways
>
> Stein,
>
> There was an RV6A with very large wheels and tires at SnF last year. He
flew
> out of rough short strips in Idaho. Sorry that I can not give you his
name.
> Maybe someone else on the list knows the owner so that you could talk to
him
> regarding his experience. If you do the nose gear, you would have to make
a
> new castoring yoke since the stock one will not accept anything larger.
>
> Bernie Kerr, 250 hours, 6A , SE Fla
> Subject: RV-List: Unimproved Runways
>
>
> > He lives on a ranch and routinely flys off of unimproved "strips" in the
> > desert of western South Dakota. Many times these are dirt roads or just
> > plain pastures. He's used to flying a citabria which handles just about
> > everything on 600x6's and is a bit concerned about 500x5's and the small
> > tailwheel. The question is: has anyone flown off of very bumpy strips
> > (without the wheelpants) and had any problems??
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
| Subject: | Re: handheld radio |
I had the A-3 (the A-23 without the NAV) and it worked great. I couldn't
justify having NAV on my radio. If I lost my radio, I'd be more concerenced
with getting on the ground, than navigating accross county. If you know
where you are when you radio goes (you should always know where you are)
then you can use the maps and compass to find your way back or to the
nearest airport. If money is not an object by all means, get the NAV in
your handheld. Most of us will never need one in our finely built ships,
though. Avionics nowadays are very reliable, and since we are generally
installing new equipment and doing a superior job (generally) than the spam
cans did in the 60's and 70's, radio reliability should not be much of a
concern.
I used my Icom more as a novelty than a back up. I had all the airports in
Phoenix programmed and as I would drive near a new airport, I'd change
frequencies and listen. I also used to listen while at the airport working
on the airplane.
Heck, now that I look back on it, I could have just bought a scanner
instead! Seriously though, they are good insurance, and if you don't mind
spending the extra $100 or so for the Nav function do it. Check Ebay before
you buy one. You can find some great deals on new ones or like new ones
there.
Paul Besing
RV-6A N197AB Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Flying
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Superior Kit Engine? |
> Who is Bart? What is the company? URL?
> Need to continue ongoing study of available choices... (having to decide
on an
> engine remains at least a couple of years off for me... who knows what
choices
> may exist?)
> Thanks.
> Robert
"Bart" is Bart Lalonde who runs Aero Sport Power in Kamloops, BC (Canada).
Aero Sport Power is a subsidiary of a large volume engine shop called
Progressive Air. ASP was started specfically to build non-certificated
engines for the experimental aircraft industry. They pull cases from normal
circulation and custom build an engine to your specification. Just do a
search on "Lalonde" in the archives and you'll get quite a bit of reading
material. He has supplied a fair portion of the RV market, and in fact two
of Van's demo ships use ASP engines.
The url is http://www.aerosportpower.com/
Randy Lervold
RV-8 #80500, 143.5 hrs., Aero Sport Power O-360
www.rv-8.com
Home Wing VAF
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chuck" <chuck(at)chuckdirect.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Portable Com or Nav/Coms? |
I bought Sporty's handheld a couple of years ago. Fired it up and the tower
couldn't hear my radio check. A buddy standing next to me did the same
check with his KX99 (Allied/King) and another one with an Icom and they
were loud and clear. I moved around --- still the same "garbled and
unreadable." I moved from behind the hanger and was finally loud and clear
with the tower. The 99 or Icoms had no problems in the hanger, behind it
or whatever. Then I bought (and returned it) a Yaesu. Nice radio but no
volumn. So if you're in the hanger listening to what's going on and the
compressor kicks on or someone taxies by, you can't hear it. Works okay with
the headset adapter though. Those bigger handhelds just have better speaker
volumn --- and you need that sometimes.
For my two cents, I'd stick with Icom or Allied (King). Better radios all
'round!
Chuck Weyant
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Berryhill" <berryhill1911(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Portable Com or Nav/Coms? |
Thanks for the input on the hand held radios. I've decided not to spend the
extra money for the Nav function and just get a Com. I'm going to buy the
Icom A5 Com based on recommendations for the Icom, price, features and also
because it comes with a Ni-MH rechargeable battery instead of a Ni-CAD.
This newer type of battery seems to avoid the "memory" problem that Ni-Cad's
have
Also, I have never heard any positive comments on the Sporty's portable -
only negatives - so a low price is no bargain if the thing doesn't work.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Berryhill" <berryhill1911(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Thanks for the help! |
I want to offer a word of thanks to all those on this group who have offered
help, advice and encouragement (especially Don Jordan and Charlie England)!
I joined this group a year or so ago because I decided that I wanted to
build an RV. I didn't even have my pilot's license yet but I wasn't going
to let that get in the way.
I started taking flying lessons and love it so much that I'm going to try
fly commercially. After checking out many schools, I picked Comair Academy
in Florida. We just moved to Florida (I met a terrific lady and got
married) and I start school in a few weeks. It's a full-time school that
lasts about 2 years.
This means I won't be starting my RV project for another few years but I
will be doing lots of flying in the mean time. I will be lurking here from
time to time but will probably be too busy to keep up with all the traffic.
Thanks again! A safe and happy new year to all!
Dave Berryhill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cole, Ed" <Ed_Cole(at)maximhq.com> |
Does anyone know what the correct procedure is for setting the
idle mixture and idle speed on a new carb? I know the RPM should rise 50 rpm
at cutoff, but how is this done? (Repetitive engine starts and stops ,
tweaking the mixture screw
until you have it right ?)
Ed Cole
RV6A N2169D Annual Finished...finally
Maxim Home Page:
http://www.maxim-ic.com
Products Page:
http://www.maxim-ic.com/MaximProducts/products.htm
New Products:
http://dbserv.maxim-ic.com/new_products.cfm
Datasheets:
http://dbserv.maxim-ic.com/l_datasheet3.cfm
The information contained in this message is confidential
and may be legally privileged. The message is intended
solely for the addressee(s). If you are not the intended
recipient, you are hereby notified that any use, dissemination,
or reproduction is strictly prohibited and may be unlawful.
If you are not the intended recipient, please contact the sender
by return e-mail and destroy all copies of the original message.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
,
| Subject: | Coax through plastic bushings |
Folks,
As I'm pondering through the construction of my Vertical Stabilizer, I'm
trying to determine the correct bushings to use in the upper and lower
forward ribs to route my antenna coax through.
I already have the Comant CI-182 antenna which fits inside the VS cap
and am planning to run RG400 which Bob (Nuckolls) says is about .27"
diameter.
Here's where I'm stuck...the SB437-4 bushings that Van's (and others)
sell has a measured OD of .4375" (7/16") and a measured ID of .274.
This means that it should (weasel word) fit. This doesn't really
comfort me in preassembling this thing counting on .004 to snake coax
through. There is a little lip on the inside of the bushing that could
be reamed out for a little better slop.
Does anyone out there have any RG400 and one of these bushings that
would be willing to test fit it and report...or would be willing to give
away a foot or so so I can measure it myself???
Thanks,
Ralph Capen
RV6AQB N822AR(rsvd)
Closed my pre-QB HS - now working on the VS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Miller Robert <rmiller3(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Coax through plastic bushings |
The Comant site shows this antenna as 21and9/16".
Would be nice to put it inside fiberglass cap... but, how are you planning
this?
Thanks.
Robert
"Ralph E. Capen" wrote:
>
> Folks,
>
> As I'm pondering through the construction of my Vertical Stabilizer, I'm
> trying to determine the correct bushings to use in the upper and lower
> forward ribs to route my antenna coax through.
>
> I already have the Comant CI-182 antenna which fits inside the VS cap
> and am planning to run RG400 which Bob (Nuckolls) says is about .27"
> diameter.
>
> Here's where I'm stuck...the SB437-4 bushings that Van's (and others)
> sell has a measured OD of .4375" (7/16") and a measured ID of .274.
> This means that it should (weasel word) fit. This doesn't really
> comfort me in preassembling this thing counting on .004 to snake coax
> through. There is a little lip on the inside of the bushing that could
> be reamed out for a little better slop.
>
> Does anyone out there have any RG400 and one of these bushings that
> would be willing to test fit it and report...or would be willing to give
> away a foot or so so I can measure it myself???
>
> Thanks,
> Ralph Capen
> RV6AQB N822AR(rsvd)
> Closed my pre-QB HS - now working on the VS
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Coax through plastic bushings |
Robert,
You're correct - I miswrote...the whiskers will still stick out - the
baseplate (only) will be enclosed within the fiberglass cap. The rest of
the construction will be similar to David Faile's rendition in RVATOR 4-99
and a gozillion questions from me...
Hope that doesn't muddy it up too much - if you can't get the details, let
me know and I'll send you what I've got.
Ralph
<>
> The Comant site shows this antenna as 21and9/16".
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Coax through plastic bushings |
Whoever Chandler is...My Norton Antivirus just quarantined your mail it had
the badtrans virus...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV4" <VansRV4GRVMJ(at)btinternet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Bart's Engines |
>snip
> I'm posting this in the archives so it isn't overlooked. There is an
engine
> builder that builds up engines for the Cal. acro crowd. Name is
Performance
> Aero Engines.
the URL is www.performanceaeroengines.com
Marcel
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RION BOURGEOIS" <rion(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Status of Whirl Wind Model 150 testing |
Does anyone know anyone who is testing (or has purchased) this prop? Thanx,
Rion
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Unimproved Runways |
> << But I still would prefer the tailwheel on soft/bumpy strips.
>
> I have no intention of starting a flame war, but why does there seem to be
a
> problem with the 6A and 8A nosegear, while I've never heard of a similar
> problem with the *equivalent* gear on a Grumman?
I have flown my 6A into some pretty bumpy fields, and I would not recommend
it. The fundamental problem is that when the nose gear hits a bump, up
comes the nose. Then, a split second later, the mains hit the bump, and
since they are behind the CG, they cause the nose to pitch down. Not good.
Any attempt to correct will probably get one into a PIO. Will I still go
into these fields? Yes, occasionally, but mostly I'll stick to the other
99.8% non bumpy fields.
Regarding the Grumman, it would end up looking pretty bent up if one tried
to keep up with an RV in a max rate climb.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
6A N66AP flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Concorde RG replacement |
Happy holidays folks,
I ventured into the truly experimental realm and installed a (sweeping major
chord) NON FAA blessed battery in my RV! Since my Concorde RG25 started
getting kinda puny, almost disallowing a flight a couple weeks ago,
(horrors!) I decided there has got to be a better way. Yessirree there is.
I found an exact physical match at the aviation department of Wally world.
It's an "Everstart Extreme", part number U1P-7, lawn and garden. It
supplies 350 cranking amps and 275 cold cranking amps.
It dropped right into the battery tray like it was meant to be there from
day one. The terminals required a couple of short carriage bolts to attach
the battery cables. The terminals are reversed, which was no problem as my
cables are long enough to reach just fine. Once bolted down, the engine
cranked up with renewed vigor. Total cost of battery: $35, which includes
the $5 haz waste fee, refundable upon delivery of the dead battery. Sure
beats $100 for a Concorde.
Also, on a lighter note, as I was taking rwy 22 for departure today, a Lear
35 pilot taxiing in commented "wow, that's a beautiful RV!" Life is good!
I offered to swap titles until he mentioned the typical fuel bill he has to
pay. Ouch. I'll keep my Lycosaur powered toy airplane thankyouverymuch.
For those on a budget, (who isn't these days?), a non-airplane type of
sealed battery can save a few bucks and a few pounds as well. I know the
Odyssey battery has gotten rave reviews as well, but I wanted to try an even
simpler (cheaper) route first. Even if my lawnmower battery craps out in a
year, I can buy two more for the cost of ONE Concorde. At least that's my
way of lookin' at it. (I also get a wicked thrill out of launching
government blessed junk whenever possible.)
Happy New Year's ya'll,
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
273 hrs.
Join the worlds largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail.
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ollie Washburn" <skybolt-aviator(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Unimproved Runways |
Regarding bent gear----If you porpoise(sp?)down the runway it will probably
bend the Grummans gear also.
Ollie&Lorene Washburn
RV6-A,N795LW,@ 97FL
Loves Airpark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Bibb" <richard.bibb(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Unimproved Runways |
Having owned a Grumman Tiger (and an RV-4) I can tellyou that if you land
nosewheel first in a Grumman it is cause for an immediate go-around. If not
you will porpoise until you get the prop. Only did it once but that was
enough. I bet the -A model RV's are the same.
-----Original Message-----
From: Ollie Washburn <skybolt-aviator(at)msn.com>
Date: Saturday, December 29, 2001 8:45 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Unimproved Runways
>
>Regarding bent gear----If you porpoise(sp?)down the runway it will probably
>bend the Grummans gear also.
>Ollie&Lorene Washburn
>RV6-A,N795LW,@ 97FL
> Loves Airpark
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Miller Robert <rmiller3(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Ceramic coating / water based |
Does anyone have any experience with this product?
Water based ceramic coating.
Sounds like it would be useful for many areas of an RV... eg: painting/coating
inside of cowl, (they even suggest coating exhaust tubes). Web site proposes
use as clear coat. Does anyone know how the specs given for this coating would
compare with other high gloss clear-coats for clarity and durability?
Apparently, it can even deliver the pizza and get rid of unwanted relatives.
Robert
http://www.aircraftfinishing.com/evershield.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Miller Robert <rmiller3(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Ceramic coating / water based |
Apologies for double post.
Forgot to add question on one-part water-borne primer from same company. They
claim performance equal or superior to two-part epoxies.
If this is true... would be simpler way to go for priming... but then begs the
question: why isn't everyone using this stuff?
Robert
http://www.aircraftfinishing.com/primer-sealer.htm
Miller Robert wrote:
>
> Does anyone have any experience with this product?
> Water based ceramic coating.
> Sounds like it would be useful for many areas of an RV... eg: painting/coating
> inside of cowl, (they even suggest coating exhaust tubes). Web site proposes
> use as clear coat. Does anyone know how the specs given for this coating would
> compare with other high gloss clear-coats for clarity and durability?
>
> Apparently, it can even deliver the pizza and get rid of unwanted relatives.
>
> Robert
>
> http://www.aircraftfinishing.com/evershield.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)peoplepc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Ceramic coating / water based |
I know two people that are restoring Stinson 108's and are using the
Aircraft Finishing System. They used a conversion coating on the tube
frame after blasting then used the primer. I watched them prime and then
clean up and it couldn't have been easier. Walk over to the hose and the
stuff cleans right up. The second guy used the Top Coat on the fabric and
said he was easy enough to use. He painted the exterior himself so I don't
know if it was painter technique or the product on fabric, but I was
unimpressed with the finished result. Neither individual can attest one way
or the other to the durability of the product.
Mike
----- Original Message -----
From: "Miller Robert" <rmiller3(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Ceramic coating / water based
>
> Apologies for double post.
> Forgot to add question on one-part water-borne primer from same company.
They
> claim performance equal or superior to two-part epoxies.
> If this is true... would be simpler way to go for priming... but then begs
the
> question: why isn't everyone using this stuff?
> Robert
> http://www.aircraftfinishing.com/primer-sealer.htm
>
> Miller Robert wrote:
>
> >
> > Does anyone have any experience with this product?
> > Water based ceramic coating.
> > Sounds like it would be useful for many areas of an RV... eg:
painting/coating
> > inside of cowl, (they even suggest coating exhaust tubes). Web site
proposes
> > use as clear coat. Does anyone know how the specs given for this
coating would
> > compare with other high gloss clear-coats for clarity and durability?
> >
> > Apparently, it can even deliver the pizza and get rid of unwanted
relatives.
> >
> > Robert
> >
> > http://www.aircraftfinishing.com/evershield.htm
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Static port location |
Could some one with the Van's static kit for the -6 please give me the
measurements for the location of the ports? I will be using the Wicks
button style ports, but need to know where to put them.
Thanks
Jeff Point
RV-6 fuselage N187CF (reserved)
Milwaukee WI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <rv6flier(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Coax through plastic bushings |
I have been known to use a drill bit to slightly enlarge the snap
bushing so that the coax will slide through.
====
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
990.5+ Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.tripod.com
Send your FREE holiday greetings online!
http://greetings.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Superior Kit Engine? |
| From: | "Michael Stephan" <mstephan(at)shr.net> |
Is the carburator considered an engine accesssory? Does the lycoming engine
price include the carburator?
--
Michael Stephan
RV8QB
----------
>From: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming(at)sigecom.net>
>To:
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Superior Kit Engine?
>Date: Thu, Dec 27, 2001, 12:41 PM
>
>
> Here is a reply I got from Mattituck on the XP360:
>
> Thank you for your e-mail.. The "you build" kit is sold 2 ways. The engine
> kit w/o accessories is $16,990.00, and the accessory kit is $3,200.00 So,
> the total engine kit would be $20,190.00 and you have a parts warranty of 6
> months. The other way is we at Mattituck can assemble the entire engine for
> you (engine & accessories) for $22,000.00. This way you would have a parts
> and labor warranty of 250 hrs or 2.5 years, whichever comes first.
>
> The kit would be shipped to you from Dallas, Texas and freight would be
> extra. The engine built by Mattituck includes freight
> shipped anywhere in the 48 states.
>
> Regards,
> Mike Yousik
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Donald Mei" <don_mei(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | New Battery - was Concorde Replacement |
Just before last weekend I replaced my dieing Gill battery with one of the
often raved about Odyssey PC 625 batterys.
(12 lbs and $73 shipped to my door from Superior batteries or some name like
that 1-888-228-8379)
It just so happened that last Saturday was really one of the first
seasonable (read that as COLD) days this fall/winter in Connecticut. At the
begining of the day I cranked the plane over and was amazed at how fast it
cranked. I damn near could have taxid with just the starter. As the day
wore on I became more glad that I had replaced the Bat. First, we went to
Westerly RI to see if a couple of friends were there. They weren't there,
but I did get to see a guy in a cherokee sware at the world and his dead
battery with his wife and kids in the plane.
Then we went to sky acres in NY for breakfast. Awesome restaurant, Sky
acres is just a few miles from Poukhipsie (sp?). There we saw another plane
with a dead battery. The poor guy had a 24/28 volt cessna so he was kindof
stuck. I don't know how they eventually got it started. When we got back
to Chester, CT I saw a guy with a nice Thorpe T-18 sitting next to the FBO.
I stopped to say hello and found that he too had a dead battery. I offered
to bring up my starter/charger and a 100 foot extension cord. He thanked
me. I was almost embarassed at how fast this battery spun my warm engine
over. It looked like I had left eht sparkplugs out it spun so fast. When I
got back up to the fbo he had gotten his plane started by jumping it off the
fuel truck. I leaned in and wished him a safe trip, yelling over the noise
and prop blast. He said I wasn't leaving until I told him where I got my
battery. I am THRILLED with my Odyssey battery. I flew yesterday morning.
The temp in the hangar was 19 degrees and it still spun the engine FAST. In
fairness the engine had a heater on it, but the bat was still at 19 deg.
Don
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Unimproved Runways |
alexpeterson(at)usjet.net writes:
> I have flown my 6A into some pretty bumpy fields, and I would not recommend
> it. The fundamental problem is that when the nose gear hits a bump, up
> comes the nose. Then, a split second later, the mains hit the bump, and
> since they are behind the CG, they cause the nose to pitch down. Not good.
> Any attempt to correct will probably get one into a PIO.
Amen, Brother Alex! You've nailed the physics/geometry problem on the head.
I'm with you on the PIO issue, too. Been there and done that many times in
my 6A over the years; no use hiding it - it's immortalized in the archives.
IMH-but-experienced-Opinion, a go-around is not always necessary. I
discovered this during an intended go-around some time back: a burst of power
will freeze the porpoise in mid-oscillation (if you also hold the stick
still), and enable most of these siruations to be salvaged with grace and
dignity. If that doesn't happen, you've already initiated your go-around;
just turn your attention to pitch and flaps and follow through. If things
settle down, pull off the power and keep the nose back, finish your round-out
with a smooth kiss on the runway, and then consider how you are going to
explain that engine-gunning to the curious onlookers.
Works every time for me, and we didn't name our bumpy little airstrip
"Hop-Along" for nothing!
-Bill B
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Louis Willig <larywil(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Improved Runways was "unimproved runways" |
Hi Gang,
When I first read the original subject " Unimproved Runways", my thoughts
turned to a problem I have been turning over in my mind for several years;
What is the best way to create a turf (grass) runway? Many of you already
own or fly from grass strips. Some of you have seen some really good (and
bad) construction techniques and could pass the good stuff along. I would
love to purchase a piece of ground some day and build my own strip. But
there must be better ways than just throwing grass down onto a leveled
piece of dirt. Would a small paved strip be easier and cheaper? Let's throw
around some experience as well as creative ideas.
Louis I Willig
1640 Okwood Dr.
Penn Vlley, PA 19072
610 668-4964
RV-4, 185 hrs., 190 HP C/S.....AKA " The Viagra Special "
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com> |
| Subject: | Improved Runways was "unimproved runways" |
Since I'm the fool that originally started this thread, I thought I'd pipe
in again.
My fathers "unimproved strip" is built like this.
It has a base of dirt, then 6-8 inches of sand/gravel mixture with grass
planted over the top. This ensures a good solid runway almost year round.
Even when the ground is wet, the sand soaks up most of the water and the
runway stays just fine. In the winter (South Dakota) The ground is frozen
so hard, that snow removal is a non-issue. As long as you have a good grass
planted and some sort of base, you'll be fine.
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
RV6, Minneapolis, Finishing the Finish Kit & Looking for a Hangar.
Hi Gang,
When I first read the original subject " Unimproved Runways", my thoughts
turned to a problem I have been turning over in my mind for several years;
What is the best way to create a turf (grass) runway? Many of you already
own or fly from grass strips. Some of you have seen some really good (and
bad) construction techniques and could pass the good stuff along. I would
love to purchase a piece of ground some day and build my own strip. But
there must be better ways than just throwing grass down onto a leveled
piece of dirt. Would a small paved strip be easier and cheaper? Let's throw
around some experience as well as creative ideas.
Louis I Willig
1640 Okwood Dr.
Penn Vlley, PA 19072
610 668-4964
RV-4, 185 hrs., 190 HP C/S.....AKA " The Viagra Special "
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "EWSpears" <ewspears(at)peoplepc.com> |
> > BTW, are you using the Icarus? What do you think of it? > does anyone
know the price of the icarus?
> still waiting for the dynon, Gary K.
The Icarus unit was designed and is made by my neighbor at Leeward Air
Ranch. The designers name is Craig Sellers and his company is
http://www.pcflightsystems.com/ You can order directly from him online for
$1395. He has a marketing agreement with Icarus which allows him to also
sell directly.
Unlike some of the other units out there that I would call "vapor-ware"
(lots of hype but no product), He has been shipping units for 6 months. I
have been using one of his units in my Avid Mk-IV for three months and it
works great. It will be in my RV8A in backup role when it's finished.
As an interesting sideline the PCEFIS was not originally designed just
for the market but was part of the computor Craig designed for his RV8X.
(Corvette Power). The computor in that plane does all the air and flight
data, completely controls and reports all engine systems, and autopilot. The
plane has been 99% finished for about a year now but the PCEFIS business has
taken all his time.
Esten Spears, RV8A, 80922, Leeward Air Ranch, Ocala, FL. Busy stringing
miles of wire!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Earl Fortner <efortner(at)vnet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: New Battery - was Concorde Replacement |
Now if you just had a skytech starter to go with that battery you might really
go bonkers at how fast your prop would spin on startup.
Earl RV4
Donald Mei wrote:
>
> Just before last weekend I replaced my dieing Gill battery with one of the
> often raved about Odyssey PC 625 batterys.
>
> (12 lbs and $73 shipped to my door from Superior batteries or some name like
> that 1-888-228-8379)
>
> It just so happened that last Saturday was really one of the first
> seasonable (read that as COLD) days this fall/winter in Connecticut. At the
> begining of the day I cranked the plane over and was amazed at how fast it
> cranked. I damn near could have taxid with just the starter. As the day
> wore on I became more glad that I had replaced the Bat. First, we went to
> Westerly RI to see if a couple of friends were there. They weren't there,
> but I did get to see a guy in a cherokee sware at the world and his dead
> battery with his wife and kids in the plane.
>
> Then we went to sky acres in NY for breakfast. Awesome restaurant, Sky
> acres is just a few miles from Poukhipsie (sp?). There we saw another plane
> with a dead battery. The poor guy had a 24/28 volt cessna so he was kindof
> stuck. I don't know how they eventually got it started. When we got back
> to Chester, CT I saw a guy with a nice Thorpe T-18 sitting next to the FBO.
> I stopped to say hello and found that he too had a dead battery. I offered
> to bring up my starter/charger and a 100 foot extension cord. He thanked
> me. I was almost embarassed at how fast this battery spun my warm engine
> over. It looked like I had left eht sparkplugs out it spun so fast. When I
> got back up to the fbo he had gotten his plane started by jumping it off the
> fuel truck. I leaned in and wished him a safe trip, yelling over the noise
> and prop blast. He said I wasn't leaving until I told him where I got my
> battery. I am THRILLED with my Odyssey battery. I flew yesterday morning.
> The temp in the hangar was 19 degrees and it still spun the engine FAST. In
> fairness the engine had a heater on it, but the bat was still at 19 deg.
>
> Don
>
> MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
> http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dick DeCramer" <diesel(at)rconnect.com> |
| Subject: | Hand Held Radios |
Reading the messages on handheld radios I just have to add my thoughts.
As an retired FAA ATC controller I have been on the recieving end of
alot of handhelds, especially since I retired as I work the UNICOM at a
number of flyin breakfasts. Save the bucks and put it toward a panel
mount com. The range of most handhelds is limited to a traffic pattern
or maybe a little more with a good antenna whereas the panel mounts at
3000' can range out 25 to 40 miles. It is very exasperating to work
traffic with radio that has spotty performance and that is what you get
with a hand held. If you are building an RV you are going to have at
least $30000 invested, spend an extra $500 and get a radio that performs
comensurate with the performance of the airplane you are going to be
flying. King KY97 and ICOM IC200 are listed in TAP for $899 and avionics
shops have good used coms for less and use the handhelds for backup or a
novelty.
Dick DeCramer
RV6 N500DD
Engine plumbing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "larry rush" <k9hxt(at)msn.com> |
Fellas,
I am flying with one of Bart's MAGNIFICENT O-360 engines on my new RV-6A and
it has performed like a dream so far (52.hrs)!! My KUDOS to Bart for a
wonderful engine at a terrific price. Mine was about $17k complete with
accessories (new mags,fuel pump, oil filter,alternator,vac pump etc).
If I was building another plane it would have one of Bart's engines on
it......no question about it!
Regards,
Larry, N939LT at 2R2 Avon,IN
Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Berryhill" <berryhill1911(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Hand Held Radios |
That's probably good advice if I were going to stick to one aircraft but I
will be going to airline pilot school and will be flying many different
aircrafts during the next 2 years, starting with my Private Pilot
certificate and working my way up to ATP. This way I'll have a back-up I
can take in every plane I will fly and can also use it on the ground to
monitor radio traffic.
Thanks for the input,
Dave Berryhill
>
>Reading the messages on handheld radios I just have to add my thoughts.
>As an retired FAA ATC controller I have been on the recieving end of
>alot of handhelds, especially since I retired as I work the UNICOM at a
>number of flyin breakfasts. Save the bucks and put it toward a panel
>mount com. The range of most handhelds is limited to a traffic pattern
>or maybe a little more with a good antenna whereas the panel mounts at
>3000' can range out 25 to 40 miles. It is very exasperating to work
>traffic with radio that has spotty performance and that is what you get
>with a hand held. If you are building an RV you are going to have at
>least $30000 invested, spend an extra $500 and get a radio that performs
>comensurate with the performance of the airplane you are going to be
>flying. King KY97 and ICOM IC200 are listed in TAP for $899 and avionics
>shops have good used coms for less and use the handhelds for backup or a
>novelty.
>
>Dick DeCramer
>RV6 N500DD
>Engine plumbing
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Unimproved Runways |
Hi Stein:
In the years that I flew in the Canadian north and arctic areas the choice
of which aircraft to use for the job was dictated by the condition of the
landing area. If you could be guaranteed that the strip was reasonable
smooth and no soft spots it didn't really matter. If we used a tri-gear we
used a precautionary type of approach, basically the same as a tail dragger
touching down at the stall nose up and holding the nose wheel off as long as
possible combined with gentle brake application so as not to put more weight
than necessary on the nose wheel. Also tended to load the aircraft towards
the aft CG limit in these conditions.
If there was any possibility of soft spots it was always a tail dragger. The
biggest problem with a tri-gear in these conditions is with the small wheel
on the front it tends to sink in soft ground this starts to shift the c of g
forward putting more weight on the nose wheel sinking it further, at this
point the prop starts to hit the ground and if conditions are bad enough the
tremendous pressure on the front of the nose wheel either bends it or in the
case of a retractable breaks the down lock and it collapses.
One of the best aircraft for use in the Canadian arctic is the Twin Otter
the same type as rescued the doctor from the south pole awhile back. It was
designed for short field operations. It is used extensively in the north,
landing just on the natural tundra. This is accomplished with the
installation of huge low pressure tires (like four feet high) installed on
all three wheels and with the added benefit of full reverse thrust on the
twin PT 6's it is capable of stopping at full gross in 150 yards.
My personal choice for the bulk of this type of flying in those days was the
DC 3.
Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com>
Subject: RV-List: Unimproved Runways
>
> Hi All,
>
> Once again I need your collective experience. My father is seriously
> thinking of starting an RV-7, he's made up his mind except for a couple of
> things. Since my plane is not quite finished, I couldn't accurately
answer
> them, and figured you guys could.
>
> He lives on a ranch and routinely flys off of unimproved "strips" in the
> desert of western South Dakota. Many times these are dirt roads or just
> plain pastures. He's used to flying a citabria which handles just about
> everything on 600x6's and is a bit concerned about 500x5's and the small
> tailwheel. The question is: has anyone flown off of very bumpy strips
> (without the wheelpants) and had any problems?? He's wondering if it
would
> be better in that instance to go with the taildragger or nosewheel??
We're
> not talking ploughed fields, just bumpy pastures.
>
> Also, many areas only have 1000-1500' to work with, so visibility is an
> issue with him. He's wondering if the visibility is a problem in the
> taildragger on extremely short strips??
>
> Any help Y'all can give me would be great! His normal use would be
checking
> cows over about 20,000-30,000 acres, mild aerobatics, and medium x-country
> trips. He's already decided that most other homebuilts are just too ugly
> and slow. Most of the time he'll be landing on decent grass or gravel, so
> it's not a huge problem, just a question. He does'nt need a sherpa or
> storch!
>
> Thanks and happy holidays,
> Stein Bruch
> RV6, Minneapolis.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net> |
| Subject: | Safety & operating costs |
In the recent discussion on preheating there was a question of why the
difference between cold weather starting a automobile and a aircraft
engine.
The priorities are different, our first priority with aircraft should
be safety and we achieve this by doing everything we can to prevent a
mechanical problem. We have to change our thinking from what is the
easiest , least bother etc. to what can I do to prevent a possible
forced landing.
One way might be to reflect on every time we see a vehicle stalled on
the road side treat it as a forced landing. What caused it, engine
abuse, poor maintenance and so on. Proper cold weather starting
practices are more critical on aircraft engines because of the heavy
grade of oil used, a typical winter grade of oil is W 80 for example and
is the same as SAE 40, nobody in cold climates would consider using such
a heavy oil in an automobile.
Use 15-50 aircraft oil you say, try pouring it out of a container at
say zero F, then try pouring some out of a container of 10-30 automotive
oil, there is no comparison not to mention the cost.
Aircraft starters and batteries are subject to more damage anytime
starting is attempted at temperatures below freezing because of their
smaller size and the chance of a fire is increased.
Experience has shown that preheating below temperatures of 35 F is the
way to go for the longest trouble free engine life. Another way to look
at it is the engine in my RV cost upwards of 25000 US versus whatever
an engine for my automobile would be.
Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Hand Held Radios |
Some of the best advice I have seen on the list.
Eustace Bowhay
Blind Bay, B.C.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dick DeCramer" <diesel(at)rconnect.com>
Subject: RV-List: Hand Held Radios
>
> Reading the messages on handheld radios I just have to add my thoughts.
> As an retired FAA ATC controller I have been on the recieving end of
> alot of handhelds, especially since I retired as I work the UNICOM at a
> number of flyin breakfasts. Save the bucks and put it toward a panel
> mount com. The range of most handhelds is limited to a traffic pattern
> or maybe a little more with a good antenna whereas the panel mounts at
> 3000' can range out 25 to 40 miles. It is very exasperating to work
> traffic with radio that has spotty performance and that is what you get
> with a hand held. If you are building an RV you are going to have at
> least $30000 invested, spend an extra $500 and get a radio that performs
> comensurate with the performance of the airplane you are going to be
> flying. King KY97 and ICOM IC200 are listed in TAP for $899 and avionics
> shops have good used coms for less and use the handhelds for backup or a
> novelty.
>
> Dick DeCramer
> RV6 N500DD
> Engine plumbing
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robin Wessel" <robin.wessel(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | FS: Nomex IIIA flightsuit |
Listers-
I have a Flightsuits inc. CWU-27/P flight suit in royal blue (NASA color?)
size 40R. It is made out of Nomex IIIA Nomex and Kevlar blend with Nomex
zippers and thread. The suit has literally been used only once since new-
successfully I might add!
I am 5' 9" - 33 waist/30 inseam 15 1/2- 34 shirt size. Due to some slight
expansion ("builders belly") since I purchased it, the suit fits a bit snug
when sitting in the cockpit. The suit should comfortably fit anyone slightly
smaller than me.
The suit is in like new condition except for a small blem (spot) on the
right sleeve bottom.
Price: $40 includes shipping.
Details of the suit are available at
http://www.flightsuits.com/uniform_military.html
thanks,
Robin Wessel
RV-6A 71 hours
Tigard, OR
HTTP://robin.getbiz.net
email: robin.wessel(at)verizon.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Great Engine! |
Ditto to that. If you haven't heard some already, there are many, many
other satisfied customers just like this (Including me!)
Paul Besing
RV-6A N197AB Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Flying
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "larry rush" <k9hxt(at)msn.com>
Subject: RV-List: Great Engine!
>
> Fellas,
> I am flying with one of Bart's MAGNIFICENT O-360 engines on my new RV-6A
and
> it has performed like a dream so far (52.hrs)!! My KUDOS to Bart for a
> wonderful engine at a terrific price. Mine was about $17k complete with
> accessories (new mags,fuel pump, oil filter,alternator,vac pump etc).
> If I was building another plane it would have one of Bart's engines on
> it......no question about it!
> Regards,
> Larry, N939LT at 2R2 Avon,IN
>
> Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
| Subject: | LONG: Reflections on flying an RV |
After flying about 70 hours in my 6A in the past 10 weeks or so, I thought I
might share what I hope will be inspiration to those who will follow, and
entertainment to those who've been there. Delete immediately if you don't
like "fluff".
Amazement might be one of the best words to describe the overall feeling.
Some of my amazement is that I actually own an airplane, one that is always
waiting only for me. However, I believe most of the feeling is due to
having created a flying machine with my own two hands, and the overwhelming
feeling of freedom associated with hopping in it and going flying.
Somewhere. Anywhere. It really doesn't matter.
And then there is this detail of just HOW these planes fly. I will never
forget the feeling of acceleration the first time I opened the throttle for
takeoff - holy s*** might have been my response. I do want to mark out a
quarter mile on the runway sometime...
An interesting paradox with these planes is how fast they are (a good
thing); however, it reduces one's flying time to get somewhere (a bad
thing). At least we have a choice. Need to work in more vertical time to
drag out short trips. I haven't thought to look at the GPS to see if it
really goes to zero when going straight up.... Let's see, when I am
inverted, what does the autopilot do (just kidding, about the autopilot).
Then there was the first sustained max power climb (during the first 8 or 10
hours the engine would get too hot if I held full power/rpm) after the
engine was broken in - 2500 agl in a little over one minute from a
standstill. The mouth on the PA28/160 pilot I had just talked to about RVs
(he had never seen one) is probably still hanging open after seeing that
climbout.
I had a very bittersweet moment in early December when our group here in
Minnesota lost a fellow RV builder to cancer - this gentleman gave me my
first ride in a C/S 180 RV. That ride cost me the price of one constant
speed prop. Anyway, I was honored to fly in a missing man formation with
three other local RV's to pay our last respects to this great man. No one
had dry eyes. I was able to share that experience with my wife, something
neither of us will ever forget.
I have found myself whooping to myself in the car on the drive to the
airport (I try not to do this when others are along). These things just
happen.
Yesterday morning I scraped snow off from the ramp, and managed to drag my
plane out in the 6 degree F wind. Fell plumb backwards when my sneakers hit
some ice. Can't believe I didn't bust something. Had to get to some
pancakes waiting about 90 miles away. One the way back home, I put in the
new CD I got for Christmas - the soundtrack from the movie Top Gun. More
whooping (and a few rolls, not the dinner kind). I had to scrounge up some
help to push it back into the hanger - imagine that, the person I flagged
down just finished an RV4. I didn't have time to talk, but I'm sure we'll
cross paths again.
Yes, the RV grin goes way beyond being in the airplane - people at work who
ask how it is going are quick to point out that I am smiling when I talk
about any aspect of the plane.
Keep hammering those rivets - you simply won't believe it until you
experience it. Many thanks to all the helpful posts to this list - there
really are golden nuggets buried within the chaff. Speaking of chaff, I
better end this message.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
6A N66AP flying 70 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Safety & operating costs |
Thank you Eustace,
For shedding just the right kind of light into a shaded area that many of us
would get lost in by discussing the various implications of cost analysis,
engineering, how and why the brother in-law dose it, or what have you.
Your thoughts are valued highly on this list.
Will the 6a fly in the coming new year?
Have a happy new year.
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net>
Subject: RV-List: Safety & operating costs
>
> In the recent discussion on preheating there was a question of why the
> difference between cold weather starting a automobile and a aircraft
> engine.
>
> The priorities are different, our first priority with aircraft should
> be safety and we achieve this by doing everything we can to prevent a
> mechanical problem. We have to change our thinking from what is the
> easiest , least bother etc. to what can I do to prevent a possible
> forced landing.
>
> One way might be to reflect on every time we see a vehicle stalled on
> the road side treat it as a forced landing. What caused it, engine
> abuse, poor maintenance and so on. Proper cold weather starting
> practices are more critical on aircraft engines because of the heavy
> grade of oil used, a typical winter grade of oil is W 80 for example and
> is the same as SAE 40, nobody in cold climates would consider using such
> a heavy oil in an automobile.
>
> Use 15-50 aircraft oil you say, try pouring it out of a container at
> say zero F, then try pouring some out of a container of 10-30 automotive
> oil, there is no comparison not to mention the cost.
>
> Aircraft starters and batteries are subject to more damage anytime
> starting is attempted at temperatures below freezing because of their
> smaller size and the chance of a fire is increased.
>
> Experience has shown that preheating below temperatures of 35 F is the
> way to go for the longest trouble free engine life. Another way to look
> at it is the engine in my RV cost upwards of 25000 US versus whatever
> an engine for my automobile would be.
>
> Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com> |
| Subject: | Fuel Servo / FAB question |
OK, since I've almost used up my allotment of monthly questions, I thought
I'd better sneak one more in before the end of the year.
I am finishing the FAB, and during my "trial" mounting, I found out that If
I follow the plans "exaclty" my mixture arm interferes with the FAB and
won't work. I have two options, modify the FAB, or try to reposition /
modify the Mixture lever. I'm using the Bendix Injection, NOT the Airflow
Performance, I already found out their arms are mounted higher on the servo
and don't interfere!
My quesiton is, since there are some of you undoubtedly flying with the
Bendix Fuel Injection on the 180 h.p. 360, how did you go about mounting the
FAB, and/or the servo to ensure full operation and easy hookup for the cable
to the mixture arm?? I've searched the archives and LOTS of websites, but
no conclusive photos.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks again,
Stein Bruch
RV6, Minneapolis, Finishing the finish kit & looking for a hangar!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Weiler" <doug.weiler(at)pressenter.com> |
| Subject: | RV-4 Epoxy cowl & camlocks |
Fellow Listers:
I was just about to complete the installation of the cowling on my RV-4.
This particular cowl is made of the old polyester fiberglas. After
discovering a rather major screwup in the alignment of my cowl (not sure if
it was molded poorly or I goofed), I am considering trashing the whole thing
and starting over. I understand the new RV-4 cowls are the new epoxy
fiberglas.
Have any of you RV-4 builder's installed this newer cowl? How is the
quality?
Also I may consider using camlocks instead of the hinges. Any comments of
camlock usage instead (other than the cost).'
Thanks
Doug Weiler
MN Wing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Weiler" <doug.weiler(at)pressenter.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Servo / FAB question |
Stein:
My flying RV-4 (which probably uses the same size airbox as the -6) was
built with a small "bump-out" in the scoop to allow the arm to clear.
Doug Weiler
MN Wing
>
> I am finishing the FAB, and during my "trial" mounting, I found out that
If
> I follow the plans "exaclty" my mixture arm interferes with the FAB and
> won't work. I have two options, modify the FAB, or try to reposition /
> modify the Mixture lever. I'm using the Bendix Injection, NOT the Airflow
> Performance, I already found out their arms are mounted higher on the
servo
> and don't interfere!
>
> My quesiton is, since there are some of you undoubtedly flying with the
> Bendix Fuel Injection on the 180 h.p. 360, how did you go about mounting
the
> FAB, and/or the servo to ensure full operation and easy hookup for the
cable
> to the mixture arm?? I've searched the archives and LOTS of websites, but
> no conclusive photos.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | czechsix(at)juno.com |
Guys, one of my fuel caps was a bit loose so I decided to adjust it a
bit. Stuck the 'tab' on the top of the cap loosely in a vice and put my
wrench on the bottom locknut to loosen it up, and with barely any effort
sheared the pin which goes through the tab clean off. The nut didn't
budge. Ended up having to put the bottom half of the fuel cap in the
vice and tighten it down pretty good before I could get the locknut loose
enough to adjust the assembly.
I'm sitting here looking at the pin that goes through the tab and it's
only 1/16" in diameter. I'm surprised they don't break routinely just
from regular wear of opening and closing the fuel cap. If you broke one
at a fuel stop somewhere you'd be kinda screwed because without it, you
can't lock the cap and without the cap you can't fly without siphoning
all your fuel out into the slipstream (well, ok, you could drain the tank
and fly home on the other one I guess....).
Has anybody else had this problem? Anybody replace the pin with a solid
steel pin or something more sturdy???
Also, is there a way to lubricate the fuel cap assembly to open and close
more easily? Does it just "break in" after a while or does something
like fuel lube help?
Thanks,
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A finishing kit is in town, now if they'd hurry up and deliver it....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Cap broken |
In a message dated 12/30/01 10:05:00 PM Eastern Standard Time,
czechsix(at)juno.com writes:
<< Guys, one of my fuel caps was a bit loose so I decided to adjust it a
bit. Stuck the 'tab' on the top of the cap loosely in a vice and put my
wrench on the bottom locknut to loosen it up, and with barely any effort
sheared the pin which goes through the tab clean off. The nut didn't
budge. Ended up having to put the bottom half of the fuel cap in the
vice and tighten it down pretty good before I could get the locknut loose
enough to adjust the assembly.
I'm sitting here looking at the pin that goes through the tab and it's
only 1/16" in diameter. I'm surprised they don't break routinely just
from regular wear of opening and closing the fuel cap. If you broke one
at a fuel stop somewhere you'd be kinda screwed because without it, you
can't lock the cap and without the cap you can't fly without siphoning
all your fuel out into the slipstream (well, ok, you could drain the tank
and fly home on the other one I guess....).
Has anybody else had this problem? Anybody replace the pin with a solid
steel pin or something more sturdy???
Also, is there a way to lubricate the fuel cap assembly to open and close
more easily? Does it just "break in" after a while or does something
like fuel lube help?
Thanks,
--Mark Navratil >>
This isn't uncommon. Check the archives, there was a lengthy discussion
several years ago. More than a few people substituted drill bit shanks for
the hinge pin, while many others lubed the cap with fuel lube. Personally, I
think if you have 'em properly adjusted, you shouldn't break one. On the
other hand, I do carry a spare fuel cap in my maintenance kit for trips...
Kyle Boatright
0-320/Aymar Demuth RV-6 Slider
Kennesaw, GA
http://www.angelfire.com/my/rv6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Cap broken |
czechsix(at)juno.com wrote:
>
>
> Guys, one of my fuel caps was a bit loose so I decided to adjust it a
> bit. Stuck the 'tab' on the top of the cap loosely in a vice and put my
> wrench on the bottom locknut to loosen it up, and with barely any effort
> sheared the pin which goes through the tab clean off. The nut didn't
> budge. Ended up having to put the bottom half of the fuel cap in the
> vice and tighten it down pretty good before I could get the locknut loose
> enough to adjust the assembly.
>
> I'm sitting here looking at the pin that goes through the tab and it's
> only 1/16" in diameter. I'm surprised they don't break routinely just
> from regular wear of opening and closing the fuel cap. If you broke one
> at a fuel stop somewhere you'd be kinda screwed because without it, you
> can't lock the cap and without the cap you can't fly without siphoning
> all your fuel out into the slipstream (well, ok, you could drain the tank
> and fly home on the other one I guess....).
>
> Has anybody else had this problem? Anybody replace the pin with a solid
> steel pin or something more sturdy???
>
> Also, is there a way to lubricate the fuel cap assembly to open and close
> more easily? Does it just "break in" after a while or does something
> like fuel lube help?
>
> Thanks,
>
> --Mark Navratil
> Cedar Rapids, Iowa
> RV-8A finishing kit is in town, now if they'd hurry up and deliver it....
>
It's a common problem. I was lucky; mine broke at home (when
I locked the cap in the tank). Some people use a piece of
drill bit shank to replace the roll pin, but mine had lasted
about 400 hrs, so I just used another roll pin to fix it.
I've always used fuel to lube the gasket & locking mechanism
as I lock the cap.
Hope this helps..
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "joe hine" <joehine(at)nbnet.nb.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Cap broken |
Mark
I would suggest a search of the archives for this. There are a few good
fixes out there. What I did on the recomendation of a list member was
replace the rolled pin that breaks with the shaft of a 1/16 drill bit. Not
a problem since. Another thing to make sure your caps stay healthy, is keep
the O ring lubricated. I use glycerin on mine and it works fine. A little
bit of fuel on them often enough to make locking them easier. I also carry
a spare with me in my carry along tool kit.
Joe Hine
RV4 C-FYTQ
----- Original Message -----
From: <czechsix(at)juno.com>
Subject: RV-List: Fuel Cap broken
>
> Guys, one of my fuel caps was a bit loose so I decided to adjust it a
> bit. Stuck the 'tab' on the top of the cap loosely in a vice and put my
> wrench on the bottom locknut to loosen it up, and with barely any effort
> sheared the pin which goes through the tab clean off. The nut didn't
> budge. Ended up having to put the bottom half of the fuel cap in the
> vice and tighten it down pretty good before I could get the locknut loose
> enough to adjust the assembly.
>
> I'm sitting here looking at the pin that goes through the tab and it's
> only 1/16" in diameter. I'm surprised they don't break routinely just
> from regular wear of opening and closing the fuel cap. If you broke one
> at a fuel stop somewhere you'd be kinda screwed because without it, you
> can't lock the cap and without the cap you can't fly without siphoning
> all your fuel out into the slipstream (well, ok, you could drain the tank
> and fly home on the other one I guess....).
>
> Has anybody else had this problem? Anybody replace the pin with a solid
> steel pin or something more sturdy???
>
> Also, is there a way to lubricate the fuel cap assembly to open and close
> more easily? Does it just "break in" after a while or does something
> like fuel lube help?
>
> Thanks,
>
> --Mark Navratil
> Cedar Rapids, Iowa
> RV-8A finishing kit is in town, now if they'd hurry up and deliver it....
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "dave ford" <dford(at)michweb.net> |
| Subject: | routing fuel lines |
I am starting to run fuel and vent lines in my 6 and wondered how guys
are routing the lines at f602 and the lower longerons. Is it better to
go through or around f602? Are you routing above or below the rudder
cable?
Dave Ford
RV6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Servo / FAB question |
> I am finishing the FAB, and during my "trial" mounting, I found out that
If
> I follow the plans "exaclty" my mixture arm interferes with the FAB and
> won't work. I have two options, modify the FAB, or try to reposition /
> modify the Mixture lever. I'm using the Bendix Injection, NOT the Airflow
> Performance, I already found out their arms are mounted higher on the
servo
> and don't interfere!
>
Stein, I don't know diddly about the Bendix, but could you move the levers
to the top, and rotate the whole thing 180 degrees about the yaw axis?
i.e., could you put the mixture and throttle on the opposite sides from
where they are now?
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
6A N66AP flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Bundy" <ebundy(at)velocitus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Cap broken |
A fair number of people have noticed this "feature" of the gas caps. I know
some have replaced the pins with drill bits, or solid pins, but I think the
regular ones are fine if adjusted properly and lubed from time to time. I
have almost 500 hours and 5 years on mine with no problems.
Do you have a plastic or stainless steel plate that the open/close ear rides
on? The original ones were black plastic and had a lot of drag when
opening/closing the cap which puts a lot of stress on the pin. The newer
ones are SS. The manufacturer and/or Van's were replacing the plastic ones
for free if you asked them.
I also lube mine with LPS-2 about every 3rd fill-up. I shoot just a quick
squirt into the center hole and on the SS plate from the top and work the
ear back and forth a couple of times, then smear a little with my finger
around the brown O-ring and pop it back in. There shouldn't be a lot of
tension snapping it down. It's hard to figure out how much you need.
Ideally, you want it just tight enough to keep fuel from siphoning out. I
know that sounds like a flippant answer, but that's the goal.
Ed Bundy - RV6A N427EM 450+ hours
160hp 0320 w/Sensenich 70x78
Eagle, ID
ebundy(at)velocitus.net
> I'm sitting here looking at the pin that goes through the tab and it's
> only 1/16" in diameter. I'm surprised they don't break routinely just
> from regular wear of opening and closing the fuel cap>
> Has anybody else had this problem? Anybody replace the pin with a solid
> steel pin or something more sturdy???
>
> Also, is there a way to lubricate the fuel cap assembly to open and close
> more easily? Does it just "break in" after a while or does something
> like fuel lube help?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: routing fuel lines |
--- dave ford wrote:
>
> I am starting to run fuel and vent lines in my 6 and wondered how
> guys
> are routing the lines at f602 and the lower longerons. Is it better
> to go through or around f602?
You are already outside it whether you are hooking up to an interior
fuel pump or making the 90 degree bend after coming in from an external
fuel pump. Not much distance so might as well go around, then tuck
back into the sidewall forward of the bulkhead.
> Are you routing above or below the rudder cable?
Below! Arrange the angle up to the firewall penetration point so that
the line passes behind the rudder pedal.
As always, YMMV.
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 N140RV (Reserved)
Firewall Forward
Send your FREE holiday greetings online!
http://greetings.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Cap broken |
I carry a 4" length of 1/16" stainless steel welding rod in the tool
kit; takes only a few minutes to make another "pin".
Sam Buchanan (RV-6)
=========================
czechsix(at)juno.com wrote:
>
>
> Guys, one of my fuel caps was a bit loose so I decided to adjust it a
> bit. Stuck the 'tab' on the top of the cap loosely in a vice and put my
> wrench on the bottom locknut to loosen it up, and with barely any effort
> sheared the pin which goes through the tab clean off. The nut didn't
> budge. Ended up having to put the bottom half of the fuel cap in the
> vice and tighten it down pretty good before I could get the locknut loose
> enough to adjust the assembly.
>
> I'm sitting here looking at the pin that goes through the tab and it's
> only 1/16" in diameter. I'm surprised they don't break routinely just
> from regular wear of opening and closing the fuel cap. If you broke one
> at a fuel stop somewhere you'd be kinda screwed because without it, you
> can't lock the cap and without the cap you can't fly without siphoning
> all your fuel out into the slipstream (well, ok, you could drain the tank
> and fly home on the other one I guess....).
>
> Has anybody else had this problem? Anybody replace the pin with a solid
> steel pin or something more sturdy???
>
> Also, is there a way to lubricate the fuel cap assembly to open and close
> more easily? Does it just "break in" after a while or does something
> like fuel lube help?
>
> Thanks,
>
> --Mark Navratil
> Cedar Rapids, Iowa
> RV-8A finishing kit is in town, now if they'd hurry up and deliver it....
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Cap broken |
| From: | Denis Walsh <deniswalsh(at)earthlink.net> |
on 12/30/01 20:23, Charlie and Tupper England at cengland(at)netdoor.com wrote:
>
>
> czechsix(at)juno.com wrote:
>>
>>
>> Guys, one of my fuel caps was a bit loose so I decided to adjust it a
>> bit. Stuck the 'tab' on the top of the cap loosely in a vice and put my
>> wrench on the bottom locknut to loosen it up, and with barely any effort
>> sheared the pin which goes through the tab clean off. The nut didn't
>> budge. Ended up having to put the bottom half of the fuel cap in the
>> vice and tighten it down pretty good before I could get the locknut loose
>> enough to adjust the assembly.
>>
>> I'm sitting here looking at the pin that goes through the tab and it's
>> only 1/16" in diameter. I'm surprised they don't break routinely just
>> from regular wear of opening and closing the fuel cap. If you broke one
>> at a fuel stop somewhere you'd be kinda screwed because without it, you
>> can't lock the cap and without the cap you can't fly without siphoning
>> all your fuel out into the slipstream (well, ok, you could drain the tank
>> and fly home on the other one I guess....).
>>
>> Has anybody else had this problem? Anybody replace the pin with a solid
>> steel pin or something more sturdy???
>>
>> Also, is there a way to lubricate the fuel cap assembly to open and close
>> more easily? Does it just "break in" after a while or does something
>> like fuel lube help?
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> --Mark Navratil
>> Cedar Rapids, Iowa
>> RV-8A finishing kit is in town, now if they'd hurry up and deliver it....
>>
> It's a common problem. I was lucky; mine broke at home (when
> I locked the cap in the tank). Some people use a piece of
> drill bit shank to replace the roll pin, but mine had lasted
> about 400 hrs, so I just used another roll pin to fix it.
> I've always used fuel to lube the gasket & locking mechanism
> as I lock the cap.
>
> Hope this helps..
>
>
NO IT DON'T BREAK IN with use. It gets worse! The friction problem seems
to take a while to develop. Apparently the plastic part of the cap and the
rubber both get dried out over time and exposure to gas fumes, and need to
be rejuvenated with some method of lube.
There should be some stuff in the archives about how to fiddle with the
caps to rectify design and manufacturing defects so I won't go in to that.
Mine broke at Sun N Fun a couple years ago. I was lucky in that the gas guy
broke it the eve before I planned to depart. Using my leatherman, and a
large paper clip (the big triangle type) did the trick for me that eve. The
diameter of the steel from the clip was just right and the straight piece
was long enough. I left the plane parked with duct tape over the tank
receptacle while I spent the eve doing the cap repair. The duct tape was
melted to mush the next morn. Not a good idea. I don't remember for sure
but I think I eventually replace the paper clip with some other steel thing
which required me to drill out the passageway a little to 1/8 ?? Anyway I
don't like it. When you do this, it don't sit flat anymore. My preference
is to use another roll pin.
BTW the later edition caps have a threaded bottom half, which means when
(worst case) the bottom of the cap falls into the gas tank, you can fish it
out with a magnet, using the bolt and nut. If you have the older version
(bottom half over drilled -- worse worst case), you will have two pieces on
the bottom of the tank, and the job is a lot tougher.
Have since come across several good tips. First of all, don't let the line
boy put the cap on. It is possible to get the cap cocked a little and it
will break even the steel pin Next: don't tighten the assembly too tight.
Just tight enough to compress the large O ring against the filler neck.
Two: when I replace the cap, I always slop a little 100LL on the big O
ring. This lubricates it just right. If the tank is too low to splash, I
use the fuel from my sample thingy. Three: (best) saw a fellow at the
field who said he put some fuel lube or DC-4 on the cap halves where they
bear against the big O ring. You either have to take it apart or carefully
remove the ring with a soft prying device. This won't last forever but will
work a long time.
I have never had this problem with the left tank cap only right. You see,
in the RV-6, I can't quite see the right cap to notice I left the little
darling unlatched until after take off. So I have replaced it with a fresh
one a couple times.
Another tribute to the Van design. Fabulous. When the cap comes off in
flight it departs cleanly. Don't hit nothin! The tank won't siphon in
normal positive G coordinated flight either, except for the first quart or
so.
Denis Walsh
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
| Subject: | Re: routing fuel lines |
Since I have steel braided hose, it just sits on the floor and runs around
the F602. The vent lines are alluminum tube, and exit forward of F602.
Paul Besing
RV-6A N197AB Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Flying
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "dave ford" <dford(at)michweb.net>
Subject: RV-List: routing fuel lines
>
> I am starting to run fuel and vent lines in my 6 and wondered how guys
> are routing the lines at f602 and the lower longerons. Is it better to
> go through or around f602? Are you routing above or below the rudder
> cable?
>
> Dave Ford
> RV6
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | routing fuel lines |
I went below the rudder pedals and around the F602.
Steve Soule
-----Original Message-----
I am starting to run fuel and vent lines in my 6 and
wondered how guys
are routing the lines at f602 and the lower longerons. Is
it better to
go through or around f602? Are you routing above or below
the rudder
cable?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Cap broken |
On 30 Dec 2001, at 21:04, czechsix(at)juno.com wrote:
> Has anybody else had this problem? Anybody replace the pin with a
> solid steel pin or something more sturdy???
>
> Also, is there a way to lubricate the fuel cap assembly to open and
> close more easily? Does it just "break in" after a while or does
> something like fuel lube help?
Same experiences here. I've replaced the pin with a drill bit. Works
pretty well, but even the drill bits will break if the cap is too tight. I
found that fuel lube helps on two fronts. First, it allows the cap to
snap on and off much more easily, reducing the stress on the drill bit.
Second, application of fuel lube to the small O-ring (under the flip top)
and around the INSIDE of the cap helps prevent the corrosion (from
water leakage?) which completely destroyed one of my fuel caps
within the first year of operation.
BTW, as I recall Sacramento Sky Ranch offered a pretty good price on
Fuel Lube.
Tim
******
Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA)
RV-6A N47TD - First Flight 18 Dec 99
http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a
******
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Cap broken |
I want to point out one little tidbit that hasn't been mentioned this time
around: The nut on the bottom is for locking, not for adjusting the cap
tightness. I discovered this when I sheared my first pin trying to tighten
a loose fuel cap by turning the locknut.
Torquing the lock nut while holding the flip tab in a vise, trying to tighten
the cap's moving parts, will shear a pin every time! The procedure is a bit
more involved than that: to adjust the fit of the o-ring in the tank filler
neck (fuel cap "tightness") first loosen the locknut on the bottom of the
cap. The bottom half of the cap (the tapered disc that the o-ring bears
against) is threaded, and is now adjustable by turning in the desired
direction. Once you are happy with your adjustment, tighten the lock nut
again to retain the setting. Use care in this final step so as not to put
too much torque on the cap's top tab, the part you are probably holding in
the vise.
-Bill B
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Nancy Jean Burkholder" <nancyb(at)mninter.net> |
| Subject: | Lightspeed ignition installation questions |
First, I want to thank the folks who offered help debugging the ignition
problem on my RV6 where the #4 lead on the right magneto was not firing.
First I measured the #4 lead resistance with a digital VOM and the lead
measured 22 megohms between the center conductor and ground; not nearly
enuf megohms! Then I took off the cap where the leads enter the
magneto. The lead was burned half in two just inside the magneto
housing.
So, I began considering my options.
Rather than replace the lead, and given the winter conditions with
limited flying, and considering that I've been eyeing electronic
ignitions, I've decided to use this opportunity to replace the right
magneto with a Lightspeed CDI.
Working through the installation I've come up with a few questions.
First, the magneto I'm replacing is a Bendix and the magneto has
mounting lugs on the magneto case. The instructions for mounting the
Hall Effect sensor specify using "standard clamps" to hold the sensor
housing to the engine. Does someone have a part number or pointer to
where I can buy these clamps?
Second, I'm mounting the brain box on the aft face of the battery box.
It's a relatively accessible and sturdy mounting area. Thus I will need
to run the wiring from the box to the Hall Effect sensor through the
firewall. How have others done this? Both wire ends come prewired with
connectors that would require at least a 1" hole to bring the connector
through the firewall. I understand I need firewall shields for bringing
the wires through the firewall, but I'm troubled by the hole size. I
suppose one option is to cut the wires, feed them through a 1/4" hole,
and splice them back together. I'd like to not do this. I wonder if
there isn't another way.
nancy b. "Good people are always so sure they're right."
Barbara Graham's last words
Executed June 3, 1955 at San Quentin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Earl Fortner <efortner(at)vnet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 Epoxy cowl & camlocks |
Doug, I still have the old style cowl to install. Let us know what you did to
screw
it up and maybe I won't make the same mistake. Up to this point I have had my
fair share of screwups.
Earl RV4
Doug Weiler wrote:
>
> Fellow Listers:
>
> I was just about to complete the installation of the cowling on my RV-4.
> This particular cowl is made of the old polyester fiberglas. After
> discovering a rather major screwup in the alignment of my cowl (not sure if
> it was molded poorly or I goofed), I am considering trashing the whole thing
> and starting over. I understand the new RV-4 cowls are the new epoxy
> fiberglas.
>
> Have any of you RV-4 builder's installed this newer cowl? How is the
> quality?
>
> Also I may consider using camlocks instead of the hinges. Any comments of
> camlock usage instead (other than the cost).'
>
> Thanks
>
> Doug Weiler
> MN Wing
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Karl Schilling" <k_schilling(at)iquest.net> |
| Subject: | Lightspeed ignition installation questions |
If you take the connector apart it is possible to feed it thru a much
smaller hole. If I remember right I was able to use a 1/2" 0r a 5/8" hole. I
then covered the hole with the correct size grommet. The clamps are easy to
get from any of the aircraft supply houses. Check with some of your local
mech's. they may have some spares as a set comes with all new slick mags. It
would be nice if Klaus would put these in with the unit. I love my unit. My
friend Steve and I added it to our RV's at about the same time. I wish that
I had done it sooner. The fuel savings alone are worth it not to mention the
performance increase and ease of starting. Karl RV-8 711KN 200 + hrs.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Norman" <jnorman(at)intermapsystems.com> |
| Subject: | Lightspeed ignition installation questions |
Having just done this, let me give my 2 cents.
The clamps that hold my Hall Effect sensor are identical to the clamps that
hold my slick magneto on the left side... two little aluminum "L" clamps
with a hole in the middle that goes over the stud in the case. You should be
able to use the ones that were holding the mag in place.
I went through the same thoughts when cutting a hole in the firewall... I
ended up not cutting the wires in half, but putting a near 1" hole in the
firewall that the wire would go through, then covering the hole with a
two-piece stainless shield (which in place covers a grommet).
jim
Tampa
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Nancy Jean
Burkholder
Subject: RV-List: Lightspeed ignition installation questions
First, I want to thank the folks who offered help debugging the ignition
problem on my RV6 where the #4 lead on the right magneto was not firing.
First I measured the #4 lead resistance with a digital VOM and the lead
measured 22 megohms between the center conductor and ground; not nearly
enuf megohms! Then I took off the cap where the leads enter the
magneto. The lead was burned half in two just inside the magneto
housing.
So, I began considering my options.
Rather than replace the lead, and given the winter conditions with
limited flying, and considering that I've been eyeing electronic
ignitions, I've decided to use this opportunity to replace the right
magneto with a Lightspeed CDI.
Working through the installation I've come up with a few questions.
First, the magneto I'm replacing is a Bendix and the magneto has
mounting lugs on the magneto case. The instructions for mounting the
Hall Effect sensor specify using "standard clamps" to hold the sensor
housing to the engine. Does someone have a part number or pointer to
where I can buy these clamps?
Second, I'm mounting the brain box on the aft face of the battery box.
It's a relatively accessible and sturdy mounting area. Thus I will need
to run the wiring from the box to the Hall Effect sensor through the
firewall. How have others done this? Both wire ends come prewired with
connectors that would require at least a 1" hole to bring the connector
through the firewall. I understand I need firewall shields for bringing
the wires through the firewall, but I'm troubled by the hole size. I
suppose one option is to cut the wires, feed them through a 1/4" hole,
and splice them back together. I'd like to not do this. I wonder if
there isn't another way.
nancy b. "Good people are always so sure they're right."
Barbara Graham's last words
Executed June 3, 1955 at San Quentin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | George Frost <ghfrost(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List: Hand Held Radios |
Dick, thanks for the info. I am working on avionics right now. Very
timely. What is TAP?
George
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Norman" <jnorman(at)intermapsystems.com> |
| Subject: | Lightspeed ignition installation questions |
Agreed... I forgot to mention... take the silver plastic housing apart on
the end of the lead that connects to the Hall Sensor... thus you can cut a
significantly smaller hole in the firewall... slip it through, then put the
plastic protective housing back together.
jim
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Karl Schilling
Subject: RE: RV-List: Lightspeed ignition installation questions
If you take the connector apart it is possible to feed it thru a much
smaller hole. If I remember right I was able to use a 1/2" 0r a 5/8" hole. I
then covered the hole with the correct size grommet. The clamps are easy to
get from any of the aircraft supply houses. Check with some of your local
mech's. they may have some spares as a set comes with all new slick mags. It
would be nice if Klaus would put these in with the unit. I love my unit. My
friend Steve and I added it to our RV's at about the same time. I wish that
I had done it sooner. The fuel savings alone are worth it not to mention the
performance increase and ease of starting. Karl RV-8 711KN 200 + hrs.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-6A training |
john henley in n. florida who monitors this list gives transition trainning,
or wait till april sun n fun for mike seager.
scott
tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | George Frost <ghfrost(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Engine mount and gear legs |
I bought my kit from a previous builder. It had an engine mount for a
conical mount 0-320.
I found a good dynafocal 0-320 and had to get a new mount and legs. I
still have the conical mount. Anyone need a conical mount and
matching legs?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Weiler" <doug.weiler(at)pressenter.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 Epoxy cowl & camlocks |
As much as I hate to admit it, here's what I did:
There is really no mention in the construction manual as to the specific
location and orientation of the line joining the top and bottom cowling
halves. Logic dictates that it would be parallel to the longitudinal axis
of the airplane (parallel to the main longeron). Well my RHS was perfect.
However the RHS is not. In fact it is about 3 degrees difference (I really
don't know how this happened... it did it about 8 months ago). No one
would probably even notice this except for the paint design I plan to use (a
variation of the "standard' RV-4 paint scheme) which has two stripes running
back from the cowling. In fact I plan to use Randy Lervold's attractive
design on his -8 (see it at http://www.rv-8.com/Paint.htm). The stripes in
the cowling area need to run parallel to the cowl separation line. (My
flying RV has this same basic design, see it at
http://www.pressenter.com/~dougweil/mnwing/id39.htm)
Then I also noticed that the outside edges of the cowl inlet and not
parallel to the ground. In other words, if you stood out in front of the
airplane and looked at the cowl inlets, you would see one is higher than the
other (by 1 inch). This the cowling is mounted slightly twisted.
The relative accuracy of the old style cowling is far from perfect. Lots of
"body" work must be done. Anyway, I'm trying to make this airplane as nice
as possible and I am bummed about the cowl. Today I call Van's to price
another one.
Doug
>
> Doug, I still have the old style cowl to install. Let us know what you did
to
> screw
> it up and maybe I won't make the same mistake. Up to this point I have had
my
> fair share of screwups.
> Earl RV4
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Superior Kit Engine? |
| From: | "Bob Lueder" <Blueder(at)SUPERIORAIRPARTS.COM> |
12/31/2001 09:41:23 AM
you guys should ask Bart how much he's charging for our engine assembled.
Pro Aero in Canada is one of our distributors.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Superior Kit Engine? |
| From: | "Bob Lueder" <Blueder(at)SUPERIORAIRPARTS.COM> |
12/31/2001 09:48:51 AM
the carb is considered an accessory and is part of the accessory kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List: Hand Held Radios |
Trade A Plane
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
http://www.eaa.org for latest flying rules
Always looking for articles for the Experimenter
----- Original Message -----
From: "George Frost" <ghfrost(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RV-List: Re: RV6-List: Hand Held Radios
Dick, thanks for the info. I am working on avionics right now. Very
timely. What is TAP?
George
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Arthur Glaser <airplane(at)megsinet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Hand Held Radios |
I flew my last wood and fabric experimental with an old Communications
Specialist hand held radio (.8 watts) and a simple home made antenna. I did a
radio check one day and got about 100 miles air to air loud and clear. I had
little or no problem communicating with the ground. I am sure a more powerful
panel mount with a low swr antenna would be better, however this seemed more
than adequate for my vfr flying including atc communications.
Art Glaser
Eustace Bowhay wrote:
>
> Some of the best advice I have seen on the list.
>
> Eustace Bowhay
> Blind Bay, B.C.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Dick DeCramer" <diesel(at)rconnect.com>
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: Hand Held Radios
>
> >
> > Reading the messages on handheld radios I just have to add my thoughts.
> > As an retired FAA ATC controller I have been on the recieving end of
> > alot of handhelds, especially since I retired as I work the UNICOM at a
> > number of flyin breakfasts. Save the bucks and put it toward a panel
> > mount com. The range of most handhelds is limited to a traffic pattern
> > or maybe a little more with a good antenna whereas the panel mounts at
> > 3000' can range out 25 to 40 miles. It is very exasperating to work
> > traffic with radio that has spotty performance and that is what you get
> > with a hand held. If you are building an RV you are going to have at
> > least $30000 invested, spend an extra $500 and get a radio that performs
> > comensurate with the performance of the airplane you are going to be
> > flying. King KY97 and ICOM IC200 are listed in TAP for $899 and avionics
> > shops have good used coms for less and use the handhelds for backup or a
> > novelty.
> >
> > Dick DeCramer
> > RV6 N500DD
> > Engine plumbing
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bryan" <tim(at)bryantechnology.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Announcement (Not RV Related) |
Hey Paul, that is Too Cool! No apology required, CONGRADULATIONS!
>>Last night my lovely wife Pam delivered a healthy 7 Lb 5 Oz baby girl.
>Lindsay Swift Besing.
>All went well, and we are proud parents again! Last night my wife was
>talking to her telling her that I'm gonna take her flying someday! Too
>cool!
>Sorry for the post, but I'm a little proud right now!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> |
| Subject: | RV-4 wing attach bolts |
I am getting ready to mount the wings soon. The only parts missing from my
wing kit when I bought it from another builder were the bolts for the
spar/carry-thru/spliceplate. Can someone tell me which bolts are needed?
Was there a specific bag that had these bolts in them. I just need to
figure out what to order from Van's. And is this going to be as much fun as
hanging the engine? Thanks!
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Network Administrator
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Aronson <aronsond(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 Epoxy cowl & camlocks |
Doug:
I have finished a "new type" RV-4 cowl recently. The stiffness of the new cowl
is much improved. Also, the fit is pretty good. I can't see anyone fitting it
without some fiberglass work. I observed one being fitted at the Nutree airport
by Ed Martinson. He has built several RV aircraft. He didn't have to use any
fiberglass at all!!! He used Nutplates on the firewall (the major pain) and
hinges everywhere else. Mine is by the book with hinges that were set-in with
J-B weld and pop-rivets. This seemed to make them stiffer and will probably
avoid some of the loosening that occurs. All in all I think it came out well.
Just take your time!!!!! And don't be afraid of getting use to using some
fiberglass!!!
Dave Aronson
RV4 N504RV
Electrical
Doug Weiler wrote:
>
> Fellow Listers:
>
> I was just about to complete the installation of the cowling on my RV-4.
> This particular cowl is made of the old polyester fiberglas. After
> discovering a rather major screwup in the alignment of my cowl (not sure if
> it was molded poorly or I goofed), I am considering trashing the whole thing
> and starting over. I understand the new RV-4 cowls are the new epoxy
> fiberglas.
>
> Have any of you RV-4 builder's installed this newer cowl? How is the
> quality?
>
> Also I may consider using camlocks instead of the hinges. Any comments of
> camlock usage instead (other than the cost).'
>
> Thanks
>
> Doug Weiler
> MN Wing
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin(at)valkyrie.net> |
| Subject: | Panel Hole Punching |
List: Just finished punching the holes in my panel for instrument
fitting. Most builders will require 3 1/8" and 2 1/4" holes in varying
amounts dependent on your application but be careful if you use a Hole
Punch VS Drilling or Fly Cutting!
While using the hole punch I accidentally backed up a 2 1/4"
hole Cutter with a 3 1/8" Die!!! Not good!! I got the error caught in
time to salvage the hole and the location was fine but the hole was now
countersunk!
Lucky for me I know how to use a body hammer and dolly and
with some filler and block sanding you won't ever know. Just thought I
would pass this on to save someone out there time and heart ache. By the
way these Hole Punchers make beautiful holes when used correctly and a
friendly A&P will lend you one.
Tom in Ohio (RV6-A Panel Stuff)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Aronson <aronsond(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 wing attach bolts |
Hey Scott:
Call Van's today and tell them what you wrote on list. They will be the
most direct way to get the sizes that you need. These are high tolerence
bolts. You may need to use a reemer to make the bolts fit just snug. This
should be pretty fast to match up as the holes in the spar and the holes in
the bulkhead were match drilled to fit eachother.
Good Luck!!!
Have a Happy New Year!
Dave Aronson
----- Original Message -----
From: "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com>
Subject: RV-List: RV-4 wing attach bolts
>
> I am getting ready to mount the wings soon. The only parts missing from
my
> wing kit when I bought it from another builder were the bolts for the
> spar/carry-thru/spliceplate. Can someone tell me which bolts are needed?
> Was there a specific bag that had these bolts in them. I just need to
> figure out what to order from Van's. And is this going to be as much fun
as
> hanging the engine? Thanks!
>
> --
> Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
> Network Administrator
> Union Safe Deposit Bank
> 209-946-5116
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KBoatri144(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Conditional Inspection Frequency |
I looked in the archives, but didn't see a concrete answer...
Let's assume I complete my conditional inspection tomorrow (1/1/02). Is that
conditional inspection good through January, 2003, or will I need to take the
aircraft out of service exactly one year after the previous conditional
inspection?
Thanks,
Kyle Boatright
0-320/Aymar Demuth RV-6 Slider
Kennesaw, GA
http://www.angelfire.com/my/rv6
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-6A training |
Does John train in the 6 or 6A and do you have contact info?
Len Leggette, RV-8A
Greensboro, N.C. N910LL (res)
Hooking up systems
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-6A training |
i'm not sure i think it is the rv6, but his e-mail address is
rv6plt(at)netzero.net
give him a holler and tell him scott reviere sent ya
scott
tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Henley" <rv6plt(at)netzero.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6A training |
Guys,
I have decided not to do any more training in my -6. The -7 is nearing
completion and will be selling the -6 soon and don't want it bruised.
John Henley
----- Original Message -----
From: <Lenleg(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-6A training
>
> Does John train in the 6 or 6A and do you have contact info?
>
> Len Leggette, RV-8A
> Greensboro, N.C. N910LL (res)
> Hooking up systems
>
>
----------------------------------------------------
Sign Up for NetZero Platinum Today
Only $9.95 per month!
http://my.netzero.net/s/signup?r=platinum&refcd=PT97
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ross Schlotthauer <rdschlotthauer(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: LONG: Reflections on flying an RV |
Alex,
What engine/prop combo are you running? Your story
sounds great. I better get out and pound some rivets.
Ross Schlotthauer
RV7 Wings 50%
--- Alex Peterson wrote:
>
>
> After flying about 70 hours in my 6A in the past 10
> weeks or so, I thought I
> might share what I hope will be inspiration to those
> who will follow, and
> entertainment to those who've been there. Delete
> immediately if you don't
> like "fluff".
>
> Amazement might be one of the best words to describe
> the overall feeling.
> Some of my amazement is that I actually own an
> airplane, one that is always
> waiting only for me. However, I believe most of the
> feeling is due to
> having created a flying machine with my own two
> hands, and the overwhelming
> feeling of freedom associated with hopping in it and
> going flying.
> Somewhere. Anywhere. It really doesn't matter.
>
> And then there is this detail of just HOW these
> planes fly. I will never
> forget the feeling of acceleration the first time I
> opened the throttle for
> takeoff - holy s*** might have been my response. I
> do want to mark out a
> quarter mile on the runway sometime...
>
> An interesting paradox with these planes is how fast
> they are (a good
> thing); however, it reduces one's flying time to get
> somewhere (a bad
> thing). At least we have a choice. Need to work in
> more vertical time to
> drag out short trips. I haven't thought to look at
> the GPS to see if it
> really goes to zero when going straight up....
> Let's see, when I am
> inverted, what does the autopilot do (just kidding,
> about the autopilot).
>
> Then there was the first sustained max power climb
> (during the first 8 or 10
> hours the engine would get too hot if I held full
> power/rpm) after the
> engine was broken in - 2500 agl in a little over one
> minute from a
> standstill. The mouth on the PA28/160 pilot I had
> just talked to about RVs
> (he had never seen one) is probably still hanging
> open after seeing that
> climbout.
>
> I had a very bittersweet moment in early December
> when our group here in
> Minnesota lost a fellow RV builder to cancer - this
> gentleman gave me my
> first ride in a C/S 180 RV. That ride cost me the
> price of one constant
> speed prop. Anyway, I was honored to fly in a
> missing man formation with
> three other local RV's to pay our last respects to
> this great man. No one
> had dry eyes. I was able to share that experience
> with my wife, something
> neither of us will ever forget.
>
> I have found myself whooping to myself in the car on
> the drive to the
> airport (I try not to do this when others are
> along). These things just
> happen.
>
> Yesterday morning I scraped snow off from the ramp,
> and managed to drag my
> plane out in the 6 degree F wind. Fell plumb
> backwards when my sneakers hit
> some ice. Can't believe I didn't bust something.
> Had to get to some
> pancakes waiting about 90 miles away. One the way
> back home, I put in the
> new CD I got for Christmas - the soundtrack from the
> movie Top Gun. More
> whooping (and a few rolls, not the dinner kind). I
> had to scrounge up some
> help to push it back into the hanger - imagine that,
> the person I flagged
> down just finished an RV4. I didn't have time to
> talk, but I'm sure we'll
> cross paths again.
>
> Yes, the RV grin goes way beyond being in the
> airplane - people at work who
> ask how it is going are quick to point out that I am
> smiling when I talk
> about any aspect of the plane.
>
> Keep hammering those rivets - you simply won't
> believe it until you
> experience it. Many thanks to all the helpful posts
> to this list - there
> really are golden nuggets buried within the chaff.
> Speaking of chaff, I
> better end this message.
>
> Alex Peterson
> Maple Grove, MN
> 6A N66AP flying 70 hours
>
>
>
> Contributions of
> any other form
>
> latest messages.
> other List members.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/search
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
Send your FREE holiday greetings online!
http://greetings.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Conditional Inspection Frequency |
Good through the end of January, 2003; plane would need to be taken out
of service 2/1/03.
This is the way you can get nearly thirteen months per condition
inspection if you time it correctly.
Sam Buchanan
================================
KBoatri144(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> I looked in the archives, but didn't see a concrete answer...
>
> Let's assume I complete my conditional inspection tomorrow (1/1/02). Is that
> conditional inspection good through January, 2003, or will I need to take the
> aircraft out of service exactly one year after the previous conditional
> inspection?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Kyle Boatright
> 0-320/Aymar Demuth RV-6 Slider
> Kennesaw, GA
> http://www.angelfire.com/my/rv6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
"rv8list(at)egroups.com" ,
rv-list
| Subject: | RV8 Deluxe throttle quadrant |
Hi ya'll
Happy Newyear.
I am playing with the deluxe, engraved, throttle quadrant from Van's.
It's a very nice piece of equipment, however, I noticed on assembly that
the clevis pins now can interfere with each other. I.e. move the
throttle and it can catch the prop lever and move it at the same time
depending on how the clevises are installed.
One can move one of the 3 clevis pins around, but the same problem would
still arise between 2 of the 3 levers.
Van's quadrant levers are spaced 0.46 inches, the deluxe, engraved
quadrant only has 0.38 inches between the levers. Enough to make it
start catching.
Anybody else seen this, found a solution to this problem ?? I think I am
allready using the smallest clevises (clevii ??) available here.
thanks
Gert
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jan <jan(at)claver.demon.co.uk> |
Hi - I am a Norwegian RV6 builder living in England who is going to visit
Bil-Jax in Archbold OH some time in the end of January. Probably arrive some
time over the weekend 20th.
Any local RV pilots / builders who would like to make contact?
Regards (and a happy new year)
Jan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com> |
| Subject: | Conditional Inspection Frequency |
Kevin,
The rules are the same as certified aircraft. You have 12 CALENDAR months,
meaning you have until Jan.30 of 2003.
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
RV6, Minneapolis, Almost done with the cowl!
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
KBoatri144(at)aol.com
Subject: RV-List: Conditional Inspection Frequency
I looked in the archives, but didn't see a concrete answer...
Let's assume I complete my conditional inspection tomorrow (1/1/02). Is
that
conditional inspection good through January, 2003, or will I need to take
the
aircraft out of service exactly one year after the previous conditional
inspection?
Thanks,
Kyle Boatright
0-320/Aymar Demuth RV-6 Slider
Kennesaw, GA
http://www.angelfire.com/my/rv6
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV8 Deluxe throttle quadrant |
Hi Gert - How's it going? I've got to stop by one of these days...
Anyway, check out DJM's website,
http://www.metronet.com/~dreeves/djm/djmmfg.htm it says this...
Model CT83F deluxe throttle quadrant 2 lever and 3 lever models Use only
a F-453A /AN665-21R clevis with an AN393-11 clevis pin. In order to
avoid potential clevis interference, it is important to install clevis
pins with the tails oriented to the outside of the quadrant. The
potential interference occurs when any given lever is operated
independently of the adjacent lever(s). Interference occurs when there
is relative motion between adjacent levers. The clevis pin in the
middle lever of three lever quadrants must use an AN960-10L washer under
the head ... It may be helpful to file the tail of the clevis pin to
provide more clearance between the tail and the head of the clevis pin
on the adjacent lever.
Hope this helps. BTW, I'm waiting for my wiz-bang throttle-Q for van's!
:>)
Todd Wenzel
Delafield, WI
RV-8AQB - Fuse
mailto:TWenzel@Heartland-Software.com
-----Original Message-----
From: gert [mailto:gert(at)execpc.com]
Subject: RV-List: RV8 Deluxe throttle quadrant
Hi ya'll
Happy Newyear.
I am playing with the deluxe, engraved, throttle quadrant from Van's.
It's a very nice piece of equipment, however, I noticed on assembly that
the clevis pins now can interfere with each other. I.e. move the
throttle and it can catch the prop lever and move it at the same time
depending on how the clevises are installed.
One can move one of the 3 clevis pins around, but the same problem would
still arise between 2 of the 3 levers.
Van's quadrant levers are spaced 0.46 inches, the deluxe, engraved
quadrant only has 0.38 inches between the levers. Enough to make it
start catching.
Anybody else seen this, found a solution to this problem ?? I think I am
allready using the smallest clevises (clevii ??) available here.
thanks
Gert
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | KING TRANSPONDER |
Listers
I have a King KT 76A transponder that was pre wired at American Avionics. My
wiring diagram does not tell me how the plug at the back of the tray is
numberd.
There are only 5 wires coming out of the tray, 3-black 1- yellow , 1 red.
The plug has 2 rows of 12 places to insert wires.
I need to know which one is number 1, and which one is A.
Thanks
Jerry wiring panel
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Compton" <rdcompton(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Electronic Ignition |
Fellow Listers:
I'm looking at installing an electronic ignition in my RV-3. How does the
Lasar system compare to the Lightspeed?
Randy Compton
RV-3A
Gulf Breeze, FL
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: KING TRANSPONDER |
Listers
I forgot to ask what is a Strobe type trandsponder? My encoder said to
connect the pink wire to ground for a Non-Strobe type ATC Trandsponder. I
have a AMERI-KING AK-350 encoder, and KING KT-76A trandsponder.
Thank
Jerry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Electronic Ignition |
>Fellow Listers:
>
>I'm looking at installing an electronic ignition in my RV-3. How does the
>Lasar system compare to the Lightspeed?
>
>Randy Compton
>RV-3A
>Gulf Breeze, FL
Randy,
I would suggest browsing the archives as this topic has been batted about
for ages. I personally find the Lightspeed to be an outstanding value and
enjoy the quick starts, simple installation, and almost zero maintenance.
Lasar is certified, costs more, but offers inherent magneto backup if the
electronics fail. Both are great systems, just like the Jeff Rose system.
They're all good. You just have to decide which one meets your personal
needs.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross A. Scroggs" <rscroggs(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 wing attach bolts |
Scott,
I'm building a 4 and according to my hardware list, all of the center
section bolts for the spars are in bag 444.
I just verified this and most of the bolts have a plastic sleeve over the
shank of the bolts to protect them. Van's
can just ship you the whole bag if you don't find it.
Good Luck,
Ross Scroggs
RV-4 F404
Conyers, Ga.
----- Original Message -----
From: Van Artsdalen, Scott <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com>
Subject: RV-List: RV-4 wing attach bolts
>
> I am getting ready to mount the wings soon. The only parts missing from
my
> wing kit when I bought it from another builder were the bolts for the
> spar/carry-thru/spliceplate. Can someone tell me which bolts are needed?
> Was there a specific bag that had these bolts in them. I just need to
> figure out what to order from Van's. And is this going to be as much fun
as
> hanging the engine? Thanks!
>
> --
> Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
> Network Administrator
> Union Safe Deposit Bank
> 209-946-5116
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: KING TRANSPONDER |
| From: | Don Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com> |
>
> Listers
> I forgot to ask what is a Strobe type trandsponder? My encoder said
> to connect the pink wire to ground for a Non-Strobe type ATC
> Trandsponder. I have a AMERI-KING AK-350 encoder, and KING KT-76A
trandsponder.
> Thank
> Jerry
>
>
*************************************************************************
I think ( from my hen scaching):
Look for 2 vertical bars ( to index the connector) 3 pins from the right
hand side.
Pins are #ed 1 thru 12 on the top from right to left &
A thru N on the bottom from right to left.
They play a funny game with the dimmer lights ( weather you want 12 or 24
volts)
for 28 - send the volts to pin3 & leave pin 2 open.
for 12 - send volts to pin2 & grd pin 3.
1 grd
A grd
D C1
M A1
L C2
B B4
E B1
J A4
H C4
C B2
K A2
8 D4
2 Dimmer
3 dimmer
11 A+
12 not used(KT76C uses it for 11-33 volts)
F Ext ID ( I think you could have a external IDent button)
9 DME supression
10 Ext standby ( if you got 2 transponers you can wire for one ot the
other)
I think the referance to the D4 (pin 8) does not matter. I show mine left
open.
I think it is for encoders above 30000 feet.
Hope this helps. If it don't E-mail is cheap.
Don Jordan - N6DJ - 6A
Arlington, Tx
******************************
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Calvert" <rv6bldr(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: KING TRANSPONDER |
Jerry,
As you are sitting in the plane, the "A" is the rightmost position on the
bottom row and the "1" is the rightmost position on the top row. The strobe
thing deals with older transponders. I have the same transponder as you and
you need to ground that extra wire. I went throught this too and this is
the information I have gathered.
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok -6 doing final odds-n-ends.
----- Original Message -----
From: <Jsd41(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: KING TRANSPONDER
>
> Listers
> I have a King KT 76A transponder that was pre wired at American Avionics.
My
> wiring diagram does not tell me how the plug at the back of the tray is
> numberd.
> There are only 5 wires coming out of the tray, 3-black 1- yellow , 1
red.
> The plug has 2 rows of 12 places to insert wires.
> I need to know which one is number 1, and which one is A.
>
> Thanks
> Jerry wiring panel
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Compton" <rdcompton(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Electronic Ignition |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Randy Compton" <rdcompton(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Electronic Ignition
> Fellow Listers:
>
> I'm looking at installing an electronic ignition in my RV-3. How does
the
> Lasar system compare to the Lightspeed?
>
> Randy Compton
> RV-3A
> Gulf Breeze, FL
>
The question is now moot.
$2500 vs $875 pretty much settled it.
Randy Compton
RV-3A
Gulf Breeze, FL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Craig Hiers" <craig_rv4(at)alltel.net> |
This afternoon another -8 took to the air.
It was built by Harold Howard, and test flown by myself.
The plane flew flawless except one wing was a little heavy.
The plane is powerd by an IO-360 (200HP) and a constant speed
prop. Takeoff performance was amazing to say the least.
Speeds were kept to about 130kts for the 30min flight.
It has the typical RV feel, which made for an easy landing.
Craig Hiers
Finally, flying a plane where someone else pays for the gas.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jim" <jntambs(at)voyager.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8 Deluxe throttle quadrant |
Gert,
Vans website has a service bulletin about this problem.
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "gert" <gert(at)execpc.com>
Subject: RV-List: RV8 Deluxe throttle quadrant
>
> Hi ya'll
>
> Happy Newyear.
>
>
> I am playing with the deluxe, engraved, throttle quadrant from Van's.
>
> It's a very nice piece of equipment, however, I noticed on assembly that
> the clevis pins now can interfere with each other. I.e. move the
> throttle and it can catch the prop lever and move it at the same time
> depending on how the clevises are installed.
>
> One can move one of the 3 clevis pins around, but the same problem would
> still arise between 2 of the 3 levers.
>
> Van's quadrant levers are spaced 0.46 inches, the deluxe, engraved
> quadrant only has 0.38 inches between the levers. Enough to make it
> start catching.
>
> Anybody else seen this, found a solution to this problem ?? I think I am
> allready using the smallest clevises (clevii ??) available here.
>
> thanks
>
> Gert
>
> --
> is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 wing attach bolts |
| From: | Don Diehl <diehldon(at)attbi.com> |
See Drawing 27. That's the one spattered with blood, sweat and a few tears.
Assembly tip: Get some junk 3/8 bolts long enough to go through. Grind
bullet shaped points on the threaded end and use them for alignment pins.
Be very careful to measure the bolt lengths and use the proper number of
washers under the nuts and bolt heads so that the nuts do not bottom out on
the bolt shanks. And please don't ask me why I add that warning.
Don Diehl
Rv-4, N28EW
Bremerton WA
> I am getting ready to mount the wings soon. The only parts missing from my
> wing kit when I bought it from another builder were the bolts for the
> spar/carry-thru/spliceplate. Can someone tell me which bolts are needed?
> Was there a specific bag that had these bolts in them. I just need to
> figure out what to order from Van's. And is this going to be as much fun as
> hanging the engine? Thanks!
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 wing attach bolts |
You might want to check the holes for size. When I got mine, it came with 2
oversize bolts and a picture of where they went in the spar. Don't want those
spar bolts rattling around in there!
Pat Allender
RV-4-flying, Iowa City
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8 Deluxe throttle quadrant |
Hi Jim
I could not get through to Ole Van's website, nor for the world, could I
remember how to get to the original website of the quadrant maker.
Must have had some local ISP problems, now there is something new....
Thanks to all who pointed me in the correct direction, I was allready
using the right clevis and clevis pin, just did not want to start
grinding them down.
And just because the clevis pins have not caused any headache yet, I
guess we all know Murphy..................
Anyway, if only I could now figure out how to put a 3 lever quadrant in
the back........ ;-)
Happy Newyear, Happy & Safe flying in years to come to ya'll !!
Gert
p.s. Anybody interested in, or knows somebody who is, making just the
face plate like the deluxe quadrant has to use on the original quadrants
??
jim wrote:
>
>
> Gert,
>
> Vans website has a service bulletin about this problem.
>
> Jim
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "gert" <gert(at)execpc.com>
> To: ; ; "rv-list"
>
> Subject: RV-List: RV8 Deluxe throttle quadrant
>
> >
> > Hi ya'll
> >
> > Happy Newyear.
> >
> >
> > I am playing with the deluxe, engraved, throttle quadrant from Van's.
> >
> > It's a very nice piece of equipment, however, I noticed on assembly that
> > the clevis pins now can interfere with each other. I.e. move the
> > throttle and it can catch the prop lever and move it at the same time
> > depending on how the clevises are installed.
> >
> > One can move one of the 3 clevis pins around, but the same problem would
> > still arise between 2 of the 3 levers.
> >
> > Van's quadrant levers are spaced 0.46 inches, the deluxe, engraved
> > quadrant only has 0.38 inches between the levers. Enough to make it
> > start catching.
> >
> > Anybody else seen this, found a solution to this problem ?? I think I am
> > allready using the smallest clevises (clevii ??) available here.
> >
> > thanks
> >
> > Gert
> >
> > --
> > is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
> >
> >
>
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | tom sargent <sarg314(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | fuel caps - storage |
Listening to all this discussion about fuel caps made me take the caps
out of my QB kit and look at them. It occurs to me that they have been
sitting snapped shut for going on 2 years now. It was shipped that way
and they keep the dust out. At this rate it'll be another year before I
fly (and that's probably wishful thinking).
Does any one have any experience/opinion about the advisability of
leaving the caps closed for a few years straight? Will it be necessary
to replace the O rings before I fly?
--
Tom Sargent.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: KING TRANSPONDER |
In a message dated 12/31/2001 1:16:27 PM Pacific Standard Time, Jsd41(at)aol.com
writes:
> I have a King KT 76A transponder that was pre wired at American Avionics. My
>
> wiring diagram does not tell me how the plug at the back of the tray is
> numbered.
> There are only 5 wires coming out of the tray, 3-black 1- yellow , 1
> red.
> The plug has 2 rows of 12 places to insert wires.
> I need to know which one is number 1, and which one is A.
Looking into the tray the upper right pin is Pin 1 and the lower right pin is
Pin A. Both of these are ground.
-GV (N1GV)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Cap broken |
| From: | czechsix(at)juno.com |
Bill, FYI in my case I was trying to loosen the locknut when I sheared
the pin! I did it carefully and gently but it had been tightened so much
that the force required to loosen it was more than the pin could
handle....in this case I'm not sure there's anything that could be done
to avoid breaking the pin and replacing it??
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A piddling around the shop still waiting for finish kit delivery.....
-----
From: SportAV8R(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel Cap broken
I want to point out one little tidbit that hasn't been mentioned this
time
around: The nut on the bottom is for locking, not for adjusting the cap
tightness. I discovered this when I sheared my first pin trying to
tighten
a loose fuel cap by turning the locknut.
Torquing the lock nut while holding the flip tab in a vise, trying to
tighten
the cap's moving parts, will shear a pin every time! The procedure is a
bit
more involved than that: to adjust the fit of the o-ring in the tank
filler
neck (fuel cap "tightness") first loosen the locknut on the bottom of the
cap. The bottom half of the cap (the tapered disc that the o-ring bears
against) is threaded, and is now adjustable by turning in the desired
direction. Once you are happy with your adjustment, tighten the lock nut
again to retain the setting. Use care in this final step so as not to
put
too much torque on the cap's top tab, the part you are probably holding
in
the vise.
-Bill B
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Yohannes Kayir" <yohannkayir(at)hotmail.com> |
RV-4 builders
who have chosen to insert their cowl pins from the rear (cowl cheek
extension area); How did you do it? How is the pin secured on/in/around the
cowl cheek extention?
Yohann Kayir
RV-4 Finishing Cowl
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael Pilla" <mpilla(at)maine.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 cowl hinge |
Claudio Tonnini, builder/flyer of RV-4 Purple Passion, used this method.
He secured the pins through a hole in the fuse side beneath the cowl
cheek extension area. This allowed him, during pre-flight, to visually
verify that the pins were inserted, secure, and had not moved fore/aft.
Michael Pilla
----- Original Message -----
From: Yohannes Kayir <yohannkayir(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: RV-4 cowl hinge
>
> RV-4 builders
>
> who have chosen to insert their cowl pins from the rear (cowl cheek
> extension area); How did you do it? How is the pin secured
on/in/around the
> cowl cheek extention?
>
> Yohann Kayir
> RV-4 Finishing Cowl
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Emmanuelle Richard <frenchflyer21(at)yahoo.com> |
Doug,
I have installed the S-cowl on my RV4. By trimming in
the right places, I haven't had to do *any* fiberglass
work at all except the area inside of the snorkel so
it matches the airbox, and gluing the ramps inside.
I proceeded according to vans manual instructions. I
had the prop and back spinner plate in place. Draw
the reference line aft of the firewall and start with
trimming the aft edge of the top cowl. Then you cut
notches in the bottom cowl (gear and exhaust) and you
trim the aft edge. Then you mount both cowls (clecos)
and you trim the intake area until both halfes match
in the front - on mine it was mainly the area around
the spinner. At that point you have the sides
overlap. Then I used a straight edge and drew a
horizontal line along the bottom cowl edge - make sure
the edge of the top cowl goes at least that far. I
trimmed that off with a dremel tool and cutting wheel
- cuts like in butter - and bloc sanded with 80 grit.
I drew a ref line parallel to that. Now you draw a
matching line on the top cowl and trim. I was pretty
careful on the left side and only took off a bit at a
time. Waste of time. Just cut to the line right
away. By that time, the side curve on both halves
matched perfect. I ductaped that tight and moved on
to the right side.
I used pins on the aft edge of the bottom cowl
(straight, but still a pain to remove) and camlocks
everywhere else. Don't use too many else cowl is hard
to remove. I think I have 7 on the sides (make sure
you space them such that they don't interfere with the
cylinder rocker covers) and maybe 8 or 9 along the
firewall. It's a bit more work, but it's well worth
the effort.
One last detail, I trimmed the cowl such that it is
3/16" low to compensate for the advertised engine sag.
I noticed that the top spark plug leads were very
close from the cowl so i went to shorter plugs.
building tip: i start the vacuum cleaner when i cut
or sand the fiberglass so it sucks up all the fine
dust right away and saves your lungs.
I have been told the S-cowl is way easier to install
than the old style one. So you will have it easy.
Send your FREE holiday greetings online!
http://greetings.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Witte <mwitte(at)erols.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Throtle,Mixture & Prop Cables |
Dan: The drawing is in the First Issue of 2001, page 18.
Mike Witte
7A (Just started, riveting HS)
Dan DeNeal wrote:
>
> Tom, which rvator had the drawing?
> Dan
> --- Tom & Cathy Ervin wrote:
> >
> >
> > Robert, I saw the drawing in the Rvator but either I
> > have a bad copy or
> > yours eyes are better than mine because I can't make
> > the small letters that
> > are the Key to the drawing!
> > Does anyone on the list know if a larger
> > copy(Readable) is available
> > online somewhere?
> >
> > Tom (No White Xmas in Ohio)
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Robert Dickson" <bubba(at)coastalnet.com>
> > To:
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: Throtle,Mixture & Prop Cables
> >
> >
> >
> > >
> > > my plans also didn't show any locations, but it
> > was pointed out to me that
> > > the firewall penetration points were printed in a
> > recent Rvator. these
> > were
> > > what I used.
> > >
> > > Robert Dickson
> > > RV-6A fwf
> > >
> > > ----------
> > > >From: Planejoel(at)aol.com
> > > >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > > >Subject: Re: RV-List: Throtle,Mixture & Prop
> > Cables
> > > >Date: Sun, Dec 23, 2001, 7:28 AM
> > > >
> > >
> > > >
> > > > I have this setup, I do not recall the plans
> > showing anything, as there
> > are a
> > > > variety of engines. I just used the most direct
> > route. I would suggest
> > > > mounting the assembly such that it will be easy
> > to remove (Drop) much
> > easier
> > > > to work under the panel.
> > > >
> > Joe
> > > >
> > > > RV6A 0360 A1D CP
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> > Contributions of
> > any other form
> >
> > latest messages.
> > other List members.
> >
> > http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> > http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> > http://www.matronics.com/search
> > http://www.matronics.com/archives
> > http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
> Send your FREE holiday greetings online!
> http://greetings.yahoo.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
does anyone have a better heating system than the stock muffler heat. i had
an rv3 a while back and it had an electric heater installed. anyone one have
any experience with electric heaters
thank you
dan carley
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | cigarette lighter for power? |
Hapy New Year All,
Am completing wiring in the instrument panel area and am considering some
type of source to power handheld GPS,Com or whatever may require power in the
future. Is the cig lighter the best plan or perhaps some other type of
socket. RCA plug? A pair of jacks? Any input from the list greatly
appreciated.
Bill Griffin RV6
Balto. MD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SSPRING83(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV4-List: heat |
Dan,
In reply to your heat on your RV-4. , when I first started flying my -4
it was a southern built plane where heat is of little concern to them aside
from how to get rid of it..... My solution was to build on to my firewall
mounted oil cooler a lower box with a flapper valve controlled from the
cockpit to either direct the waste heat into the cockpit or dump it overboard
depending on the demand. The nice thing about it is, aside from the heat; is
that I have eliminated the threat of any carbon monoxide leaking into the
cockpit from an exhaust leak that could occour with the wrap around exhaust
pipe heat system. Works great so far and we have had some cold days lately
with temps in the 20s and lower. One thing that you have to do is restrict
the opening of the scat pipe down to about 1 inch so that the oil does not
get too cool to give you heat. Cold days my oil temp stays around 170
degrees. You can regulate this somewhat by experimenting with the size of the
opening at the scat pipe flange. Hope this helps. George Spring Rv-4 4375J
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
Craig,
Please forward Harold our CONGRATULATIONS WELL DONE !!
Chuck Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A (47 hrs)
Niantic, CT
From: "Craig Hiers" <CRAIG_RV4(at)ALLTEL.NET>
Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
To:
Subject: RV-List: A new RV-8
Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2001 19:42:21 -0500
-- RV-List message posted by: "Craig Hiers"
This afternoon another -8 took to the air.
It was built by Harold Howard, and test flown by myself.
The plane flew flawless except one wing was a little heavy.
The plane is powerd by an IO-360 (200HP) and a constant speed
prop. Takeoff performance was amazing to say the least.
Speeds were kept to about 130kts for the 30min flight.
It has the typical RV feel, which made for an easy landing.
Craig Hiers
Finally, flying a plane where someone else pays for the gas.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: cigarette lighter for power? |
Bill,
We have a cigar lighter pug for the rearer and have hard wired our Garmin 295.
Chuck Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A (47 hrs)
Niantic, CT
From: Rv6238(at)aol.com
Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: cigarette lighter for power?
Date: Tue, 1 Jan 2002 20:14:39 EST
-- RV-List message posted by: Rv6238(at)aol.com
Hapy New Year All,
Am completing wiring in the instrument panel area and am considering some
type of source to power handheld GPS,Com or whatever may require power in the
future. Is the cig lighter the best plan or perhaps some other type of
socket. RCA plug? A pair of jacks? Any input from the list greatly
appreciated.
Bill Griffin RV6
Balto. MD
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: Click Here
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: cigarette lighter for power? |
Hi Bill,
Just finished the cig lighter socket installation on my -6. I wanted a power
source for any handheld device that I might want to plug in. I had
considered several jacks and plugs. All would have required cutting the
device cig plug and installing a jack. If I wanted to use any other device I
would have to use an adapter. Following the principle of KISS I installed a
$3.00 cig socket from Pep Boys. It works for me.
Cash Copeland
RV6
>
>
> Hapy New Year All,
> Am completing wiring in the instrument panel area and am considering some
> type of source to power handheld GPS,Com or whatever may require power in
> the
> future. Is the cig lighter the best plan or perhaps some other type of
> socket. RCA plug? A pair of jacks? Any input from the list greatly
> appreciated.
> Bill Griffin RV6
> Balto. MD
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
| Subject: | Re: cigarette lighter for power? |
I did the cigarette lighter (I like to refer to it as Aux 12V Power) and I
am glad I did it. Had another handheld GPS, Tranceiver, and even charged my
cell phone on a trip.
I think the adapters are pretty standard for anything you put in, so it
should be a good choice to put in. Cheap and easy, too.
Paul Besing
RV-6A N197AB Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Flying
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: <Rv6238(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: cigarette lighter for power?
>
> Hapy New Year All,
> Am completing wiring in the instrument panel area and am considering some
> type of source to power handheld GPS,Com or whatever may require power in
the
> future. Is the cig lighter the best plan or perhaps some other type of
> socket. RCA plug? A pair of jacks? Any input from the list greatly
> appreciated.
> Bill Griffin RV6
> Balto. MD
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Harvey Sigmon" <flyhars(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | cigarette lighter for power? |
Bill: On my latest RV-6A I installed a power outlet plug off of a Chrysler
Van. I wired it through a fused circuit to the Batt. This way I would
always have power available as long as the battery was operable. I use
mine for my portable GPS, the one I bought was one that a blister in Canada
recommended. It has a nice cover when not in use. Hope this helps.
Harvey Sigmon RV-6A N602RV
> [Original Message]
> From: <Rv6238(at)aol.com>
> To:
> Date: 1/1/02 3:14:39 PM
> Subject: RV-List: cigarette lighter for power?
>
>
> Hapy New Year All,
> Am completing wiring in the instrument panel area and am considering some
> type of source to power handheld GPS,Com or whatever may require power in
the
> future. Is the cig lighter the best plan or perhaps some other type of
> socket. RCA plug? A pair of jacks? Any input from the list greatly
> appreciated.
> Bill Griffin RV6
> Balto. MD
>
>
>
>
>
--- Harvey Sigmon
--- flyhars(at)earthlink.net
--- EarthLink: It's your Internet.
________________________________________________________________________________
Guys,
Building an RV 7A QB
On the top of the F705 Bulkhead ...
One needs to fabricate the F705 J Angle, the F705 L Shim, and the
F705 K Plate. I found the material for the angle and the shim but I have no
material for the plate, nor is it listed (material AS3 .040 1 7/8 x 16 1/4)
in my original packing list.
What am I missing here?
John McDonnell (looking for stuff instead of making progress)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
rv-list
| Subject: | rv8: rear seat throttle quadrant |
Kicking around some ideas for the rear seat throttle quadrant in a RV8.
Talking with a friend about pro's and con's. (hi Jeff)
Thought I throw this out for the masses who have gone before me.
There are, after all, builders out there who have given some
consideration flying the 8 from the backseat.
Given that you have a 3 lever, throttle-prop-mixture, up front, if there
were no technical obstacles such as linkage, would you prefer for the
backseat:
a: no controls (K.I.S.S.)
b: Just a throttle, a la Van's
c: A 2 lever solution, throttle and prop
d: a 3 lever solution, throttle, prop and mixture.
e: some other combination.
If you have or are considering b, c or d, how worried are you the
backseater can pull a fast one on ya by accidentally moving a lever at
an inconvienent time ?
Gert
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | rv8: rear seat throttle quadrant |
I just put mine in recently, using your option B. I shortened the lever
considerably. There is no bend in it. I consider it more of an
emergency thing than anything. I'm also tempted to not install the rear
seat rudder pedal kit I have. I don't know if I'm getting more
practical, lazy, or what.....
Larry Bowen
RV-8 fuse
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of gert
> Sent: Tuesday, January 01, 2002 9:49 PM
> To: rv8list(at)egroups.com; rv-list
> Subject: RV-List: rv8: rear seat throttle quadrant
>
>
>
> Kicking around some ideas for the rear seat throttle quadrant
> in a RV8. Talking with a friend about pro's and con's. (hi Jeff)
>
> Thought I throw this out for the masses who have gone before me.
>
> There are, after all, builders out there who have given some
> consideration flying the 8 from the backseat.
>
>
> Given that you have a 3 lever, throttle-prop-mixture, up
> front, if there were no technical obstacles such as linkage,
> would you prefer for the
> backseat:
>
> a: no controls (K.I.S.S.)
> b: Just a throttle, a la Van's
> c: A 2 lever solution, throttle and prop
> d: a 3 lever solution, throttle, prop and mixture.
> e: some other combination.
>
> If you have or are considering b, c or d, how worried are
> you the backseater can pull a fast one on ya by accidentally
> moving a lever at an inconvienent time ?
>
> Gert
> --
> is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
>
>
> ==========
> ==========
> ==========
> ==========
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Haywire" <haywire(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | cigarette lighter for power? |
I considered a better power socket for my RV-9, since I consider a power
point that was designed to light cigarettes to be somewhat archaic. While I
still don't like it I decided to use it as many devices that you may want to
run out this require less than 12 volts and their power cord has converter
circuitry located inside the plug. This makes for a small, neat power
converter from the device manufactures point of view, but you cannot simply
cut it off to install a smaller, better plug & socket for your panel.
I think it will take a move from one of the major auto manufactures before
we ever see a long overdue improvement of this power point.
S. Todd Bartrim
13B RV-9 (finishing)
C-FSTB (reserved)
>
> Hi Bill,
> Just finished the cig lighter socket installation on my -6. I
> wanted a power
> source for any handheld device that I might want to plug in. I had
> considered several jacks and plugs. All would have required cutting the
> device cig plug and installing a jack. If I wanted to use any
> other device I
> would have to use an adapter. Following the principle of KISS I
> installed a
> $3.00 cig socket from Pep Boys. It works for me.
> Cash Copeland
> RV6
>
>
> >
> >
> > Hapy New Year All,
> > Am completing wiring in the instrument panel area and am
> considering some
> > type of source to power handheld GPS,Com or whatever may
> require power in
> > the
> > future. Is the cig lighter the best plan or perhaps some other type of
> > socket. RCA plug? A pair of jacks? Any input from the list greatly
> > appreciated.
> > Bill Griffin RV6
> > Balto. MD
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "mkellems" <mkellems(at)bellsouth.net> |
Dan, Try this website-They have 12 and 24 volt DC models that measure
4"x5"x6" and put out between 1200 and 3000 watts. www.dcthermal.qpg.com
Hope this helps.
Mike Kellems
RV-4 5361U
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Curt Reimer" <cgreimer(at)mb.sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: cigarette lighter for power? |
Another use of the cig lighter socket is as a light-duty ground
power/battery charger recepticle, provided you use suitably heavy wire and
wire the cig lighter socket directly to the battery through a fusable link
so you can isolate the battery by leaving the master off.
Curt
----- Original Message -----
From: "Harvey Sigmon" <flyhars(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List: cigarette lighter for power?
>
> Bill: On my latest RV-6A I installed a power outlet plug off of a Chrysler
> Van. I wired it through a fused circuit to the Batt. This way I would
> always have power available as long as the battery was operable. I use
> mine for my portable GPS, the one I bought was one that a blister in
Canada
> recommended. It has a nice cover when not in use. Hope this helps.
> Harvey Sigmon RV-6A N602RV
>
>
> > [Original Message]
> > From: <Rv6238(at)aol.com>
> > To:
> > Date: 1/1/02 3:14:39 PM
> > Subject: RV-List: cigarette lighter for power?
> >
> >
> > Hapy New Year All,
> > Am completing wiring in the instrument panel area and am considering
some
> > type of source to power handheld GPS,Com or whatever may require power
in
> the
> > future. Is the cig lighter the best plan or perhaps some other type of
> > socket. RCA plug? A pair of jacks? Any input from the list greatly
> > appreciated.
> > Bill Griffin RV6
> > Balto. MD
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> --- Harvey Sigmon
> --- flyhars(at)earthlink.net
> --- EarthLink: It's your Internet.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Weiler" <doug.weiler(at)pressenter.com> |
My flying RV-4 uses two heat muffs on the crossover exhaust. Inlet air
(which is slightly restricted to slow it down) goes to muff number one at
the front cross over pipe. Hot air from this muff goes to the inlet of muff
#2 and then into the cockpit. Actually, it seems to work quite well. I
have flown this a 10 degrees OAT at the surface and it was comfortable.
Doug Weiler
MN Wing
> does anyone have a better heating system than the stock muffler heat. i
had
> an rv3 a while back and it had an electric heater installed. anyone one
have
> any experience with electric heaters
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: rv8: rear seat throttle quadrant |
Hi Larry
Emergency ?? as in, frontseat driver becomes intoxicated with the beauty
of the RV and won't land ??
I have given consideration too to not letting the knobs stick out in the
back, but that was after i dragged my 6'6" 230 lbs (it's now probably
240 lbs after the holidays..hehehe) in the back seat.
There is slightly less room in my backseat anyway as i went for the tall
person's option and moved the bottom of the front seatback further aft
too to have my knees clear the standard instrument panel.
Larry Bowen wrote:
>
>
> I just put mine in recently, using your option B. I shortened the lever
> considerably. There is no bend in it. I consider it more of an
> emergency thing than anything. I'm also tempted to not install the rear
> seat rudder pedal kit I have. I don't know if I'm getting more
> practical, lazy, or what.....
>
> Larry Bowen
> RV-8 fuse
> Larry(at)BowenAero.com
> http://BowenAero.com
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of gert
> > Sent: Tuesday, January 01, 2002 9:49 PM
> > To: rv8list(at)egroups.com; rv-list
> > Subject: RV-List: rv8: rear seat throttle quadrant
> >
> >
> >
> > Kicking around some ideas for the rear seat throttle quadrant
> > in a RV8. Talking with a friend about pro's and con's. (hi Jeff)
> >
> > Thought I throw this out for the masses who have gone before me.
> >
> > There are, after all, builders out there who have given some
> > consideration flying the 8 from the backseat.
> >
> >
> > Given that you have a 3 lever, throttle-prop-mixture, up
> > front, if there were no technical obstacles such as linkage,
> > would you prefer for the
> > backseat:
> >
> > a: no controls (K.I.S.S.)
> > b: Just a throttle, a la Van's
> > c: A 2 lever solution, throttle and prop
> > d: a 3 lever solution, throttle, prop and mixture.
> > e: some other combination.
> >
> > If you have or are considering b, c or d, how worried are
> > you the backseater can pull a fast one on ya by accidentally
> > moving a lever at an inconvienent time ?
> >
> > Gert
> > --
> > is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
> >
> >
> > ==========
> > ==========
> > ==========
> > ==========
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert McCallum <robert.mccallum2(at)sympatico.ca> |
Just remember guys that 1200 Watts @ 12 Volts is 100 Amps and that 3000 Watts @
12 Volts is 250
Amps. These numbers require some pretty honkin alternators. If you go 24 Volts
the current
requirements are 50 and 125 Amps respectively.
Bob McC
mkellems wrote:
>
> Dan, Try this website-They have 12 and 24 volt DC models that measure
> 4"x5"x6" and put out between 1200 and 3000 watts. www.dcthermal.qpg.com
>
> Hope this helps.
>
> Mike Kellems
> RV-4 5361U
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Bristol <bj034(at)lafn.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Cap broken |
Mark,
You have to hold the body of the cap since that's what the nut seats against
- not the screw or the latch so the pin is actually in no danger.
Dave -6 flying, So Cal
czechsix(at)juno.com wrote:
>
> Bill, FYI in my case I was trying to loosen the locknut when I sheared
> the pin! I did it carefully and gently but it had been tightened so much
> that the force required to loosen it was more than the pin could
> handle....in this case I'm not sure there's anything that could be done
> to avoid breaking the pin and replacing it??
>
> --Mark Navratil
> Cedar Rapids, Iowa
> RV-8A piddling around the shop still waiting for finish kit delivery.....
>
> -----
>
> From: SportAV8R(at)aol.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel Cap broken
>
>
> I want to point out one little tidbit that hasn't been mentioned this
> time
> around: The nut on the bottom is for locking, not for adjusting the cap
> tightness. I discovered this when I sheared my first pin trying to
> tighten
> a loose fuel cap by turning the locknut.
>
> Torquing the lock nut while holding the flip tab in a vise, trying to
> tighten
> the cap's moving parts, will shear a pin every time! The procedure is a
> bit
> more involved than that: to adjust the fit of the o-ring in the tank
> filler
> neck (fuel cap "tightness") first loosen the locknut on the bottom of the
>
> cap. The bottom half of the cap (the tapered disc that the o-ring bears
> against) is threaded, and is now adjustable by turning in the desired
> direction. Once you are happy with your adjustment, tighten the lock nut
>
> again to retain the setting. Use care in this final step so as not to
> put
> too much torque on the cap's top tab, the part you are probably holding
> in
> the vise.
>
> -Bill B
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "F. Parker Thomas" <me(at)parkerthomas.com> |
| Subject: | Van's gauge wiring |
Listers -
Are there any instructions out there on how to wire Van's gauges? I checked
the box for the fuel gauges and the fuel sender (as well as the list
archives) and can't find anything. Fuel gauges have two wires (I assume
that is the lighting) and three studs labeled G, I, and S. Oil Temp has the
same labels and manifold pressure has a +, -, G and I. I can guess that G
is ground, but what are the others? Is this so obvious that I should just
know it?
Thanks!
Parker
F. Parker Thomas
PO Box 190894
San Francisco, CA 94119
me(at)parkerthomas.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JDaniel343(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Van's gauge wiring |
Call or e-mail Van. I received instructions with all my gauges.
John L. Danielson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Hurlbut" <hurlbut_steve(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Van's gauge wiring |
You should have received a wiring diagram with the instruments.
Pins labelled "I" go to the power source.
Fuel level Gauge:
G - Ground
I - power
S - sender
Other wires are for lighting. If you pull gently on the rubber gromet you
can remove the light bulb.
Manifold Pressure:
G - Ground
I - power and red (colour at sender) wire going to sender
- - green wire going to sender
+ - white wire going to sender
Ask Van's for a wiring diagram
Steve Hurlbut
RV-7A
Wings
Kingston, Ontario
>From: "F. Parker Thomas" <me(at)parkerthomas.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Van's gauge wiring
>Date: Tue, 01 Jan 2002 21:55:04 -0800
>
>
>Listers -
>
>Are there any instructions out there on how to wire Van's gauges? I
>checked
>the box for the fuel gauges and the fuel sender (as well as the list
>archives) and can't find anything. Fuel gauges have two wires (I assume
>that is the lighting) and three studs labeled G, I, and S. Oil Temp has
>the
>same labels and manifold pressure has a +, -, G and I. I can guess that G
>is ground, but what are the others? Is this so obvious that I should just
>know it?
>
>Thanks!
>
>Parker
>
>
>F. Parker Thomas
>PO Box 190894
>San Francisco, CA 94119
>me(at)parkerthomas.com
>
>
Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Van's gauge wiring |
parker
i have a wiring schematic that shows all of vans gauges on 1 sheet. send me
your fax number.
scott
tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carlfro(at)erols.com> |
| Subject: | Re: rv8: rear seat throttle quadrant |
The passenger's left knee and the standard Van's rear seat throttle tend to
share the same space. Recommend modifying the rear throttle handle by
taking the bend out of it and shortening it a little. This keeps the
throttle handle inside the bulkhead ribs and helps eliminates the potential
of the passenger moving your throttle by accident.
Carl Froehlich
RV-8A (getting close)
Vienna, VA
----- Original Message -----
From: "gert" <gert(at)execpc.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: rv8: rear seat throttle quadrant
>
> Hi Larry
>
> Emergency ?? as in, frontseat driver becomes intoxicated with the beauty
> of the RV and won't land ??
>
> I have given consideration too to not letting the knobs stick out in the
> back, but that was after i dragged my 6'6" 230 lbs (it's now probably
> 240 lbs after the holidays..hehehe) in the back seat.
>
> There is slightly less room in my backseat anyway as i went for the tall
> person's option and moved the bottom of the front seatback further aft
> too to have my knees clear the standard instrument panel.
>
>
> Larry Bowen wrote:
> >
> >
> > I just put mine in recently, using your option B. I shortened the lever
> > considerably. There is no bend in it. I consider it more of an
> > emergency thing than anything. I'm also tempted to not install the rear
> > seat rudder pedal kit I have. I don't know if I'm getting more
> > practical, lazy, or what.....
> >
> > Larry Bowen
> > RV-8 fuse
> > Larry(at)BowenAero.com
> > http://BowenAero.com
> >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> > > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of gert
> > > Sent: Tuesday, January 01, 2002 9:49 PM
> > > To: rv8list(at)egroups.com; rv-list
> > > Subject: RV-List: rv8: rear seat throttle quadrant
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Kicking around some ideas for the rear seat throttle quadrant
> > > in a RV8. Talking with a friend about pro's and con's. (hi Jeff)
> > >
> > > Thought I throw this out for the masses who have gone before me.
> > >
> > > There are, after all, builders out there who have given some
> > > consideration flying the 8 from the backseat.
> > >
> > >
> > > Given that you have a 3 lever, throttle-prop-mixture, up
> > > front, if there were no technical obstacles such as linkage,
> > > would you prefer for the
> > > backseat:
> > >
> > > a: no controls (K.I.S.S.)
> > > b: Just a throttle, a la Van's
> > > c: A 2 lever solution, throttle and prop
> > > d: a 3 lever solution, throttle, prop and mixture.
> > > e: some other combination.
> > >
> > > If you have or are considering b, c or d, how worried are
> > > you the backseater can pull a fast one on ya by accidentally
> > > moving a lever at an inconvienent time ?
> > >
> > > Gert
> > > --
> > > is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
> > >
> > >
> > > ==========
> > > ==========
> > > ==========
> > > ==========
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
>
> --
> is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wes" <whays(at)camalott.com> |
| Subject: | Re: cigarette lighter for power? |
[Harvey wrote]. I wired it through a fused circuit to the Batt. This way I
would
always have power available as long as the battery was operable.
I wired my cigar lighter the same way as Harvey. I used the fusible link Bob
Nuckols talked about. In addition to having power all the time, you can also
use it for a trickle charger for the battery. I have a 1 amp motorcycle
battery charger I use if needed. It has worked very well.
Wes Hays
N844WB
Winters, TX
200+ hours
"The Laws of Aerodynamics are unforgiving and the ground is hard."
Michael Collins (1987)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cory Stock" <Cstock(at)capecoral.net> |
I have struggled with finding the easiest method of logging my RV-7A kit progress.
I tried Kitlog Pro a few weeks ago and was a little aggravated with some
bugs in the program.
I fired my concerns to the people I payed, and with a little interaction and a
few test runs, my problems have been corrected and the program works beautifully.
If anyone else had problems, check it out, they are most likely fixed. I now have
more time for the plane and am not spending a lot of time organizing pictures
and paperwork.
Cory - RV-7A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Gunn" <WGUNN(at)dot.state.tx.us> |
| Subject: | Re: RV4-List: heat |
I wrapped a stainless steel spring, stretched out, around the two exhaust pipes
within my cabin heat exchanger. Very warm now - tried this?
>>> DFCPAC(at)aol.com 01/01/02 06:26PM >>>
--> RV4-List message posted by: DFCPAC(at)aol.com
does anyone have a better heating system than the stock muffler heat. i had
an rv3 a while back and it had an electric heater installed. anyone one have
any experience with electric heaters
thank you
dan carley
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Bowen <lcbowen(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: rv8: rear seat throttle quadrant |
Hello Gert,
Which emergency? I don't know. I keep picturing my wife in the back seat,
with minimum piloting skills...If I have a coranary or something it would seem
a little cruel to not have at least access to the rear stick and power
controls. Otherwise I don't expect it to be used very much.
-Larry
--- gert wrote:
>
> Hi Larry
>
> Emergency ?? as in, frontseat driver becomes intoxicated with the beauty
> of the RV and won't land ??
>
> I have given consideration too to not letting the knobs stick out in the
> back, but that was after i dragged my 6'6" 230 lbs (it's now probably
> 240 lbs after the holidays..hehehe) in the back seat.
>
> There is slightly less room in my backseat anyway as i went for the tall
> person's option and moved the bottom of the front seatback further aft
> too to have my knees clear the standard instrument panel.
>
>
> Larry Bowen wrote:
> >
> >
> > I just put mine in recently, using your option B. I shortened the lever
> > considerably. There is no bend in it. I consider it more of an
> > emergency thing than anything. I'm also tempted to not install the rear
> > seat rudder pedal kit I have. I don't know if I'm getting more
> > practical, lazy, or what.....
> >
> > Larry Bowen
> > RV-8 fuse
> > Larry(at)BowenAero.com
> > http://BowenAero.com
> >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> > > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of gert
> > > Sent: Tuesday, January 01, 2002 9:49 PM
> > > To: rv8list(at)egroups.com; rv-list
> > > Subject: RV-List: rv8: rear seat throttle quadrant
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Kicking around some ideas for the rear seat throttle quadrant
> > > in a RV8. Talking with a friend about pro's and con's. (hi Jeff)
> > >
> > > Thought I throw this out for the masses who have gone before me.
> > >
> > > There are, after all, builders out there who have given some
> > > consideration flying the 8 from the backseat.
> > >
> > >
> > > Given that you have a 3 lever, throttle-prop-mixture, up
> > > front, if there were no technical obstacles such as linkage,
> > > would you prefer for the
> > > backseat:
> > >
> > > a: no controls (K.I.S.S.)
> > > b: Just a throttle, a la Van's
> > > c: A 2 lever solution, throttle and prop
> > > d: a 3 lever solution, throttle, prop and mixture.
> > > e: some other combination.
> > >
> > > If you have or are considering b, c or d, how worried are
> > > you the backseater can pull a fast one on ya by accidentally
> > > moving a lever at an inconvienent time ?
> > >
> > > Gert
> > > --
> > > is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
> > >
> > >
> > > ==========
> > > ==========
> > > ==========
> > > ==========
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
>
> --
> is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Send your FREE holiday greetings online!
http://greetings.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: RV flying stories |
--- Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com wrote:
>
>
> WHOOOO HOOOOOO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
>
> It's the first official Donnybrook of the new year, outta the way,
> lemme in
> boys. Everyone jump in, all you delete keyers, and list coppers jump
> on in
> and slug someone. Veraprime woosies and tail dragger mutants, don't
> just
> stand there gawking, get some on ya. DOGPILE!!!!!! Delete this baby.
Hey!!!
Who's a mutant!?!
>
> Where the hell is Shook when ya need him.
You guys are having waaay too much fun.
Mike Thompson
Austin, TX
-6 (no wimpy nose wheels here!) N140RV
Firewall Forward
Send your FREE holiday greetings online!
http://greetings.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Miller Robert <rmiller3(at)earthlink.net> |
I have been wondering why RV builders, and homebuilders in general, most often
seem to use 12 /14
volt systems?
24/28 volt systems do offer the advantage of lower current, and therefore lighter
wire runs
throughout the aircraft. The latter could, I guess, add up. There may also be
greater safety in
the event of a fault in the system somewhere with the lesser current flow.
Most instrumentation/ and engine accessories are available in both voltages. I
have not priced
every kind of device that is needed, but it seems to me that avionics are not
priced differently
for voltage, but starters and alternators are.
Any comments?
Robert
Robert McCallum wrote:
>
> Just remember guys that 1200 Watts @ 12 Volts is 100 Amps and that 3000 Watts
@ 12 Volts is 250
> Amps. These numbers require some pretty honkin alternators. If you go 24 Volts
the current
> requirements are 50 and 125 Amps respectively.
>
> Bob McC
>
> mkellems wrote:
>
> >
> > Dan, Try this website-They have 12 and 24 volt DC models that measure
> > 4"x5"x6" and put out between 1200 and 3000 watts. www.dcthermal.qpg.com
> >
> > Hope this helps.
> >
> > Mike Kellems
> > RV-4 5361U
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Donald Mei" <don_mei(at)hotmail.com> |
I'm no electrical expert, but 1200 watts at 12 volts gives . . .um, uh
100 AMPS !!!!! I don't think that is a viable alternative, unless you want
to run a second or third alternator.
One other thought. Heat is a waste product of most types of energy
conversion. Our RVs make plenty of extra, waste heat. All we need to do is
capture and redirect it. It seems very inefficient to me to actually MAKE
more heat. George Spring's post on his oil cooler heater is an example of
the efficient capture of heat that would otherwise be dumped overboard.
Don
Dan, Try this website-They have 12 and 24 volt DC models that measure
4"x5"x6" and put out between 1200 and 3000 watts. www.dcthermal.qpg.com
Hope this helps.
Mike Kellems
RV-4 5361U
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Donald Mei" <don_mei(at)hotmail.com> |
One other thought. My '4 leaks like a sieve. I never notice it unless it
is COLD out. Last night it was cold out. Despite a warm flow of air around
my feet, air was blowing in all around the canopy.
Much has been written about sealing the cockpit. Canopy, pushrod boots,
etc. There's also been much good stuff written about negatively
pressurizing the cabin to assist the inrushing air from the heater duct.
Don't forget about this stuff in the archives.
Unfortunately, I've done none of this. Now my girlfriend, who loves to fly
and even do aerobatics, refuses to fly with me until it gets warm, or I
figure out how to keep her warm in the plane. Because she knew I wanted her
to come flying with me, last week we took out the rear stick, she buckeled
in, and I put a down sleeping bag around her. It worked, but we looked
pretty stupid getting out for breakfast. There has to be a better way.
Don
Join the worlds largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail.
http://www.hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bryan" <tim(at)bryantechnology.com> |
| Subject: | Cigarette Lighter Plug -- was something else |
Hi Guys, Thought I would jump in here.
Mike's post was valid regarding the higher wattage. Keep in mind that a
wattage rating is only a rating. The alternator is for replacing energy
actually used. What you will be using from the plug and what it is capable
of are two different things.
Most cig lighter plugs purchased from the auto parts store have a very small
rating. While they may carry the load of most devices used within an
airplane, it doesn't hurt to have one rated higher to reduce fire risk.
Tim Bryan
RV-6 Slider (N616TB reserved)
Finishing Kit
>100 AMPS !!!!! I don't think that is a viable alternative, unless you want
>to run a second or third alternator.
>One other thought. Heat is a waste product of most types of energy
>conversion. Our RVs make plenty of extra, waste heat. All we need to do is
>capture and redirect it. It seems very inefficient to me to actually MAKE
>more heat. George Spring's post on his oil cooler heater is an example of
>the efficient capture of heat that would otherwise be dumped overboard.
>Dan, Try this website-They have 12 and 24 volt DC models that measure
>4"x5"x6" and put out between 1200 and 3000 watts. www.dcthermal.qpg.com
>Hope this helps.
>Mike Kellems
>RV-4 5361U
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Cig lighter adater, another option |
| From: | "John Allen" <fliier(at)onebox.com> |
On my RV-6A I went down to the local trailer supply shop and purchased
a small (about 1" plug) trailer electrical connector, the kind intended
for hooking up the trailer electrics to the tow vehicle. This had 5
hefty power pins, each one of which could take a 14AWG wire. One of
these I hooked to ground. Another was hooked directly to the battery
(fused, of course) The other three were hooked to the non-critical buss.
The female end was mounted under the panel, out of sight but within
reach.
I purchased additional male plugs, and made a couple of pigtails. One
pigtail uses the always hot wire and ground and terminates in a cigarette
lighter adapter. Another uses 4 hot leads so I can hook up 4 14AWG wires
directly to a pretty beefy battery charger (though this is not sufficient
for cranking current)
The point being that this "power bus" allows me to quickly interchange
different power options. Anytime I need a new configuration I make a
new pigtail.
John Allen
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
Have you priced a 24 volt battery? a 24 volt charger?
----- Original Message -----
From: "Miller Robert" <rmiller3(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-4 Heat
I have been wondering why RV builders, and homebuilders in general, most
often seem to use 12 /14
volt systems?
24/28 volt systems do offer the advantage of lower current, and therefore
lighter wire runs
throughout the aircraft. The latter could, I guess, add up. There may also
be greater safety in
the event of a fault in the system somewhere with the lesser current flow.
Most instrumentation/ and engine accessories are available in both voltages.
I have not priced
every kind of device that is needed, but it seems to me that avionics are
not priced differently
for voltage, but starters and alternators are.
Any comments?
Robert
Robert McCallum wrote:
>
> Just remember guys that 1200 Watts @ 12 Volts is 100 Amps and that 3000
Watts @ 12 Volts is 250
> Amps. These numbers require some pretty honkin alternators. If you go 24
Volts the current
> requirements are 50 and 125 Amps respectively.
>
> Bob McC
>
> mkellems wrote:
>
> >
> > Dan, Try this website-They have 12 and 24 volt DC models that measure
> > 4"x5"x6" and put out between 1200 and 3000 watts. www.dcthermal.qpg.com
> >
> > Hope this helps.
> >
> > Mike Kellems
> > RV-4 5361U
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)peoplepc.com> |
There sure is Don. Take a lesson from motorcycle riders who have been using
heated vests for years to stay warm at very low temperature. I've used
these vests and they are nice because they don't adversely restrict your
movements. In conjunction with a jacket (which you would wear anyway) I
think it would be a good solution.
Mike Nellis - http://bmnellis.com
Georgetown, TX
Waiting to start Fuselage
RV6 N699BM Reserved
1947 Stinson 108-2 N9666K
----- Original Message -----
From: "Donald Mei" <don_mei(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: RV-4 Heat
>
> One other thought. My '4 leaks like a sieve. I never notice it unless it
> is COLD out. Last night it was cold out. Despite a warm flow of air
around
> my feet, air was blowing in all around the canopy.
>
> Much has been written about sealing the cockpit. Canopy, pushrod boots,
> etc. There's also been much good stuff written about negatively
> pressurizing the cabin to assist the inrushing air from the heater duct.
>
> Don't forget about this stuff in the archives.
>
> Unfortunately, I've done none of this. Now my girlfriend, who loves to
fly
> and even do aerobatics, refuses to fly with me until it gets warm, or I
> figure out how to keep her warm in the plane. Because she knew I wanted
her
> to come flying with me, last week we took out the rear stick, she buckeled
> in, and I put a down sleeping bag around her. It worked, but we looked
> pretty stupid getting out for breakfast. There has to be a better way.
>
> Don
>
> Join the worlds largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail.
> http://www.hotmail.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming(at)sigecom.net> |
Thank you.
----- Original Message -----
From: "mkellems" <mkellems(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: RV-List: RV-4 Heat
>
> Dan, Try this website-They have 12 and 24 volt DC models that measure
> 4"x5"x6" and put out between 1200 and 3000 watts. www.dcthermal.qpg.com
>
> Hope this helps.
>
> Mike Kellems
> RV-4 5361U
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gordon Robertson" <res0rlvx(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Rear seat throttles in RV8 |
From: gert <gert(at)execpc.com>
rv-list
Subject: RV-List: rv8: rear seat throttle quadrant
Kicking around some ideas for the rear seat throttle quadrant in a RV8.
Talking with a friend about pro's and con's. (hi Jeff)
Gert,
I am considering putting in rear seat flying capability too. But in my
case only the throttle is required (using 13b rotary engine with EFIS).
But what about the rest of the instruments? Have you considered a little
panel with, say, ASI, tach, altimiter, compass and ball in it? Just
basics, but in my test flight at Vans I found it difficult/impossible to see
the panel from the rear seat.
Thoughts anyone?
Gordon Robertson
RV8 fuse
Thought I throw this out for the masses who have gone before me.
There are, after all, builders out there who have given some
consideration flying the 8 from the backseat.
Given that you have a 3 lever, throttle-prop-mixture, up front, if there
were no technical obstacles such as linkage, would you prefer for the
backseat:
a: no controls (K.I.S.S.)
b: Just a throttle, a la Van's
c: A 2 lever solution, throttle and prop
d: a 3 lever solution, throttle, prop and mixture.
e: some other combination.
If you have or are considering b, c or d, how worried are you the
backseater can pull a fast one on ya by accidentally moving a lever at
an inconvienent time ?
Gert
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bvondane(at)cso.atmel.com> |
| Subject: | Rear seat throttles in RV8 |
The EIS from Grand Rapids-> http://hometown.aol.com/enginfosys is
capable of monitoring all engine parameters, fuel burn, and fuel level,
as well as AS, ALT, and VSI... It's dimensions are 5.9375" Wide x 2.75"
H x 2.375" Deep... It's very small and very light! The last time I
talked with Greg (when I bought my unit) he said he was working on a
"slave" unit for the 2nd cockpit in tandems that will need only a single
serial cable to display all the functions of the primary unit... I see
this easily fitting in the back seat of an -8...
-Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Gordon
Robertson
Subject: RV-List: Rear seat throttles in RV8
From: gert <gert(at)execpc.com>
rv-list
Subject: RV-List: rv8: rear seat throttle quadrant
Kicking around some ideas for the rear seat throttle quadrant in a RV8.
Talking with a friend about pro's and con's. (hi Jeff)
Gert,
I am considering putting in rear seat flying capability too. But in my
case only the throttle is required (using 13b rotary engine with EFIS).
But what about the rest of the instruments? Have you considered a
little
panel with, say, ASI, tach, altimiter, compass and ball in it? Just
basics, but in my test flight at Vans I found it difficult/impossible to
see the panel from the rear seat.
Thoughts anyone?
Gordon Robertson
RV8 fuse
Thought I throw this out for the masses who have gone before me.
There are, after all, builders out there who have given some
consideration flying the 8 from the backseat.
Given that you have a 3 lever, throttle-prop-mixture, up front, if there
were no technical obstacles such as linkage, would you prefer for the
backseat:
a: no controls (K.I.S.S.)
b: Just a throttle, a la Van's
c: A 2 lever solution, throttle and prop
d: a 3 lever solution, throttle, prop and mixture.
e: some other combination.
If you have or are considering b, c or d, how worried are you the
backseater can pull a fast one on ya by accidentally moving a lever at
an inconvienent time ?
Gert
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Garth Shearing" <garth(at)Islandnet.com> |
I would like to put a few numbers to this subject because I don't think it
makes sense to generate electrical power in a small aircraft for heating.
Typically the energy available from gasoline goes to three major places in
roughly equal amounts. One third goes to produce actual driving power, one
third is dissipated in the form of cooling, and one third goes out the
exhaust. This is very simplified, of course, because actual numbers vary
quite a bit.
So, if we have an engine cruising along producing 100 horsepower of thrust,
there is about 100 horsepower of heat going out the exhaust. In terms of
watts (at 746 watts per horsepower) this represents 74,600 watts of waste
heat out of the exhaust. For 2000 watts of cabin heat, then, we only have
to capture 2.7% of the exhaust heat. A heat muff is a very simple, light
weight method of getting this heat. A down side is potential carbon
monoxide poisoning. A simple carbon monoxide detector can solve this
problem. Stick on detectors can be used in the cabin which are very cheap.
On the other hand, if we decide to generate the additional 2000 watts using
an alternator, we have to rob the engine of about three horsepower of thrust
energy to run the alternator. There are lots of us who go to great lengths
to get our antennas out of the slipstream to reduce antenna drag, but this
drag in terms of horsepower is miniscule by comparison. And then there is
extra weight for alternator, wiring, and other high current bits and pieces.
Garth Shearing
VariEze and 80% RV6A
Victoria BC Canada
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "flamini2" <flamini2(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | Fw: Follow Up - January 1, 2002 Nappanee, Indiana |
----- Original Message -----
From: 2wienceks
Subject: Follow Up - January 1, 2002
Well gang, here it is.. 2002 already!
As in years past, the SMBC attended the (11th) annual "Hanger Over Fly
In" at Nappanee yesterday. Attending, we had...
Sue and my self in the RV6
Joe, Bill, and Jerry in the Bonanza
Dennis F. solo in the Tailwind
Chuck T. solo in the RV6
Gordon and Frieda in the C182
Gregg, Letty and Dan in the Tiger
Dick solo in the RV6
Steve B, and the kids in the Tiger
Butch and Carol in the C150
Arnie and Lee in the Aztec
Bob and Nancy in the Dakota
Don in the Debonair
Gene D. solo in the C182
Jack and Don in the Aerostar
Mike A. solo in the C185
Ken solo in the C210
Quite a turn out. We had a total of 28 members and 16 planes attend
this years bash.
The weather was more "January" as was in other years. Temps were a bit
warmer than last Sunday. I believe they were in the teens on lift off
and rose to the 20's by mid day. Winds were light out of the west.
Our gang had our sunglasses on all day, except for 10 miles or so of
"lake effect" snow showers just prior to reaching Nappanee. Nothing
like the Sunday before Christmas! And, since Nappanee was in the
clear, Dennis flew on top all the way. I did the same on the return
leg.
The gang at Nappanee put on another great fly in. Turn out was pretty
heavy... aircraft parking extended on to the grass along the runway.
In fact, Bob and Nancy had to park quite a ways east. Food was both
good and plentiful, with brats, hotdogs, sloppy joes, chili, beans.. and
followed up with a bunch of home made deserts. I think we all managed
to have our fill!
The gang had a great time hanger flying, as usual. Since it was New
Years.. there was no second stop this day. Bob and Nancy and Sue and
myself were the last to leave at about 1PM or so. We flew on top in
bright sun all the way home.
What can I say.. a GREAT way to start 2002!
Hope to see you all next Sunday.. and.. let me know of any destinations
you want to visit.
Mark
PS: ATTENTION! When I was leaving NAPPANEE, I picked up a pair of
GLOVES from one of our tables. They are black and men's size XL. I
have these... if you lost a pair of GLOVES... let me know.
ALSO... just 13 weeks, 4 days to SUN AND FUN 2002! Don't forget to
tell the "boss" so you can get your vacation time in!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "flamini2" <flamini2(at)attbi.com> |
BlankA friend with an RV-6 180 Lyc fixed pitch has oil filling his
manifold pressure ga. Does anyone know how this is possible or what the
fix is?
Also my Garmin GPS III shuts off from time to time on it's own, moetly
when it is cold, anyone else have that problem or a fix?
Dennis and Fran, Chicago
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
New gage! Borden tube has cracked letting the oil out into the gage itself.
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
http://www.eaa.org for latest flying rules
Always looking for articles for the Experimenter
----- Original Message -----
From: "flamini2" <flamini2(at)attbi.com>
Subject: RV-List: Trouble
BlankA friend with an RV-6 180 Lyc fixed pitch has oil filling his
manifold pressure ga. Does anyone know how this is possible or what the
fix is?
Also my Garmin GPS III shuts off from time to time on it's own, moetly
when it is cold, anyone else have that problem or a fix?
Dennis and Fran, Chicago
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Keith Hughes" <rv6tc(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: RV flying stories |
I'm holding out for the "Mile and a half high club" (I already live in
Denver). I know you -4 drivers are "manly" but I doubt.........
Keith
(We don't need no stinkin' pre-punched fuselage!!)
----- Original Message -----
From: Chuck Rabaut <crabaut(at)coalinga.com>
Subject: Fw: RV-List: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: RV flying stories
>
> Ah ha... One of those "sissy" side-by-side birds.
>
> Chuck
> second -4, slow build(re-building), zinc chromate, with a "manly" tail
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV_8 Pilot" <rv_8pilot(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: rv8: rear seat throttle quadrant |
I have a throttle, stick and Van's rudder pegs in the backseat of my -8.
I'm happy with the arrangement. Would be happier with brakes and pedals in
the back, but I'm just not motivated enough right now to come up with that
solution. I'd rather fly.
As for someone doig something to the throttle quadrant controls in the back
seat, I'm much more concerned about someone doing something with the stick,
personally!
Bryan Jones -8
Pearland, Texas
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gert <gert(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rear seat throttles in RV8 |
Yep, I was thinking along the same lines, just one of those (slaved) lcd
jobbies.
The remote control for the radios is more interesting..........
Wonder what happened to all other, fly-from-the-rear folks?? Gordon is
the first one to hear from, although his choice seems easier.......
Gert
Bill VonDane wrote:
>
>
> The EIS from Grand Rapids-> http://hometown.aol.com/enginfosys is
> capable of monitoring all engine parameters, fuel burn, and fuel level,
> as well as AS, ALT, and VSI... It's dimensions are 5.9375" Wide x 2.75"
> H x 2.375" Deep... It's very small and very light! The last time I
> talked with Greg (when I bought my unit) he said he was working on a
> "slave" unit for the 2nd cockpit in tandems that will need only a single
> serial cable to display all the functions of the primary unit... I see
> this easily fitting in the back seat of an -8...
>
> -Bill
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Gordon
> Robertson
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Rear seat throttles in RV8
>
>
> From: gert <gert(at)execpc.com>
> rv-list
> Subject: RV-List: rv8: rear seat throttle quadrant
>
>
> Kicking around some ideas for the rear seat throttle quadrant in a RV8.
> Talking with a friend about pro's and con's. (hi Jeff)
>
> Gert,
>
> I am considering putting in rear seat flying capability too. But in my
> case only the throttle is required (using 13b rotary engine with EFIS).
>
> But what about the rest of the instruments? Have you considered a
> little
> panel with, say, ASI, tach, altimiter, compass and ball in it? Just
> basics, but in my test flight at Vans I found it difficult/impossible to
> see the panel from the rear seat.
>
> Thoughts anyone?
>
> Gordon Robertson
> RV8 fuse
>
> Thought I throw this out for the masses who have gone before me.
>
> There are, after all, builders out there who have given some
> consideration flying the 8 from the backseat.
>
> Given that you have a 3 lever, throttle-prop-mixture, up front, if there
> were no technical obstacles such as linkage, would you prefer for the
> backseat:
>
> a: no controls (K.I.S.S.)
> b: Just a throttle, a la Van's
> c: A 2 lever solution, throttle and prop
> d: a 3 lever solution, throttle, prop and mixture.
> e: some other combination.
>
> If you have or are considering b, c or d, how worried are you the
> backseater can pull a fast one on ya by accidentally moving a lever at
> an inconvienent time ?
>
> Gert
> --
>
>
>
>
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com> |
| Subject: | VM1000 Lead Time |
Hi Guys,
After scrounging and saving my beer money, I finally tried to order a VM1000
today. Guess what I found out. Typical Lead times are now 14-22 weeks.
Both Aircraft Spruce and Chief said they can't keep them in stock and to
expect a minimum of 2-3 months for a complete unit. You can buy a partial
"install kit", but that doesn't help me out much. My plane should be
finished by then.
I checked with EVERY VM1000 distributor and even spoke at length with the
folks at Vision Microsystems today. It seems they are VERY far behind in
production.
No body keeps them in stock anymore. I checked Aircraft Spruce, Van's, even
Lancair (they did have some -6 cyl. models in stock). It seems several
dealers have grown frustrated with Vision Microsystems and have been turning
their customers to other systems, such as Electronics International, JPI,
etc.. because of the insanely slow production of the VM1000.
Just another "heads up". I spoke with the guys at Easter Avionics, and they
were the rudest bunch of guys I have ever spoken with. After quoting me a
price of $4300.00 for the VM1000, they said that was the price, take it or
leave it. Guess what, I'll leave it!
Now I have to buy some other system, since my panel is done. I can't wait 3
months for a system so I'll buy another. Any suggestions?? I'm thinking
about the new I-K 2000 (Van's is installing in their new -9). I can't go
with steam guages anymore, because I've only left enought space in my panel
for a digital system. This only leaves the RMI, IK2000, JPI, or EI systems.
What do you guys think?? I have a block of room about 7"x7".
Thanks in advance,
Stein Bruch
RV6, Minneapolis, waiting on engine monitor and prop.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | I Need an Instrument Panel Hole Punch |
Does anyone have an instrument panel hole punch I could borrow (or buy)? I'd
be happy to pay shipping both ways and a wear and tear rental fee. I will
need the punch that has both 3.25 and 2.5 inch holes and I would use it for
about 2 weeks or so.
I just ordered all my gauges and am ready to start installing them. I live
in Atlanta, GA, but am moving to Michigan in 2 weeks. I already moved my
RV-4 in a 26' U-Haul last week. I don't recommend moving it if you don't
have too, but that is a whole nother story.....
Thanks for any help!
-Mike Kraus
RV-4 FWF and FWB
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: VM1000 Lead Time |
In a message dated 1/2/02 2:23:31 PM Pacific Standard Time,
stein(at)steinair.com writes:
<< This only leaves the RMI, IK2000, JPI, or EI systems. What do you guys
think?? I have a block of room about 7"x7".>>
You might want to consider the Engine Information System (EIS-4000) from
Grand Rapids Technologies, www.hometown.AOL.com/EngInfoSys. It may not have
the prettiest face on the block but IMHO it has more capability than any of
the others, and they are great people to work with! I was sold after Tim
Lewis gave me a ride in his -6A and explained just a little of the EIS's
capabilities.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, finish kit stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Watson" <terrywatson3(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rear seat throttles in RV8 |
If you wanted, you could use the Microair radio. It can be slaved. See
www.microair.com.au/product/760sl.asp.
Terry
>
> The remote control for the radios is more interesting..........
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rob ray <smokyray(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV4-List: heat |
I learned that living up in South Dakota with my ole
Tcraft. Electric Socks work good too.....
Rob Ray
N557RR
--- Bill Gunn wrote:
> --> RV4-List message posted by: "Bill Gunn"
>
>
> I wrapped a stainless steel spring, stretched out,
> around the two exhaust pipes within my cabin heat
> exchanger. Very warm now - tried this?
>
> >>> DFCPAC(at)aol.com 01/01/02 06:26PM >>>
> --> RV4-List message posted by: DFCPAC(at)aol.com
>
> does anyone have a better heating system than the
> stock muffler heat. i had
> an rv3 a while back and it had an electric heater
> installed. anyone one have
> any experience with electric heaters
>
> thank you
> dan carley
>
>
>
> Contributions of
> any other form
>
> latest messages.
> other List members.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/search
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
Send your FREE holiday greetings online!
http://greetings.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Norman" <jnorman(at)intermapsystems.com> |
| Subject: | IK-2000 (Was: VM1000 Lead Time) |
Guys,
I installed my IK-2000 this past weekend. It is the coolest thing going.
Forget the fact that it is 1/2 the price of the VM1000, Its probably better
(IMHO). If any of you are even remotely considering a VM 1000, or any other
box that does a lot of stuff, you need to look at this. Stein is correct,
Vans will be installing one of these units in one of their planes in the
coming weeks.
I get digital AND graphical (LED) readouts of all 4 EGTs and CHTs, Oil
pressure, Fuel use (gal/hr), Knots (indicated and true), RPM and Man Press.
I get digital (numerical) read out of Altitude, and I get graphical (LED)
readout of Altitude variation, Oil Temp, Volts, Fuel PSI, and % Fuel
remaining. The LEDs are green and get into yellow/red as you get into danger
territory. The scales of each parameter are made to my particular plane as
necessary (Fuel injection, etc). It has variable lighting for the digital
readouts and the LEDs, and back lighting for the digital readouts. I had it
outside in the Florida sun this weekend and its plenty bright (turned it
down a tad!).
Its newest version (mine is first!) is the proper width to put in a radio
stack. It comes with a brain box and two read-out units so you can arrange
the two units in your panel the way you want (I kept it simple and put one
on top of the other so they look like one unit). I got the version with
every bell and whistle, and its going to cost me roughly $2500 with all
probes complete to go. One more cool thing, when it turns on it shows my
name, airplane type, and N number while it does its start-up diagnostic
(about 5 seconds)... too cool.
I've been dealing with Ralph (owner/inventor) and his wife Helene for
months. Great people. Give them a call and tell them Jim sent you.
Here is their web site.
http://i-ktechnologies.com/
I'd also be glad to talk to any of you by phone if you want to ask specific
questions (813) 971-2590. I did not get a discount, and I do not work
with/for these guys in any way. I just believe in the product.
Jim
Tampa
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Stein Bruch
Subject: RV-List: VM1000 Lead Time
Hi Guys,
After scrounging and saving my beer money, I finally tried to order a VM1000
today. Guess what I found out. Typical Lead times are now 14-22 weeks.
Both Aircraft Spruce and Chief said they can't keep them in stock and to
expect a minimum of 2-3 months for a complete unit. You can buy a partial
"install kit", but that doesn't help me out much. My plane should be
finished by then.
I checked with EVERY VM1000 distributor and even spoke at length with the
folks at Vision Microsystems today. It seems they are VERY far behind in
production.
No body keeps them in stock anymore. I checked Aircraft Spruce, Van's, even
Lancair (they did have some -6 cyl. models in stock). It seems several
dealers have grown frustrated with Vision Microsystems and have been turning
their customers to other systems, such as Electronics International, JPI,
etc.. because of the insanely slow production of the VM1000.
Just another "heads up". I spoke with the guys at Easter Avionics, and they
were the rudest bunch of guys I have ever spoken with. After quoting me a
price of $4300.00 for the VM1000, they said that was the price, take it or
leave it. Guess what, I'll leave it!
Now I have to buy some other system, since my panel is done. I can't wait 3
months for a system so I'll buy another. Any suggestions?? I'm thinking
about the new I-K 2000 (Van's is installing in their new -9). I can't go
with steam guages anymore, because I've only left enought space in my panel
for a digital system. This only leaves the RMI, IK2000, JPI, or EI systems.
What do you guys think?? I have a block of room about 7"x7".
Thanks in advance,
Stein Bruch
RV6, Minneapolis, waiting on engine monitor and prop.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: VM1000 Lead Time |
Casper has an RMI uEncoder and uMonitor in it for 68 hrs without a problem,
except the fuel pressure on low pressure systems won't read accurately below 1
lb (due to a transducer problem) and I have never seen anything but 19 C on the
carb temp no matter how cold it is at start up. The digital display is easy to
get used to, great for scanning and easy to see in bright sunlight. They seem
to be pretty rugged as I haven't been able to screw them up.
Garry " Casper"
Stein Bruch wrote:
>
> Hi Guys,
>
> After scrounging and saving my beer money, I finally tried to order a VM1000
> today. Guess what I found out. Typical Lead times are now 14-22 weeks.
> Both Aircraft Spruce and Chief said they can't keep them in stock and to
> expect a minimum of 2-3 months for a complete unit. You can buy a partial
> "install kit", but that doesn't help me out much. My plane should be
> finished by then.
>
> I checked with EVERY VM1000 distributor and even spoke at length with the
> folks at Vision Microsystems today. It seems they are VERY far behind in
> production.
>
> No body keeps them in stock anymore. I checked Aircraft Spruce, Van's, even
> Lancair (they did have some -6 cyl. models in stock). It seems several
> dealers have grown frustrated with Vision Microsystems and have been turning
> their customers to other systems, such as Electronics International, JPI,
> etc.. because of the insanely slow production of the VM1000.
>
> Just another "heads up". I spoke with the guys at Easter Avionics, and they
> were the rudest bunch of guys I have ever spoken with. After quoting me a
> price of $4300.00 for the VM1000, they said that was the price, take it or
> leave it. Guess what, I'll leave it!
>
> Now I have to buy some other system, since my panel is done. I can't wait 3
> months for a system so I'll buy another. Any suggestions?? I'm thinking
> about the new I-K 2000 (Van's is installing in their new -9). I can't go
> with steam guages anymore, because I've only left enought space in my panel
> for a digital system. This only leaves the RMI, IK2000, JPI, or EI systems.
> What do you guys think?? I have a block of room about 7"x7".
>
> Thanks in advance,
> Stein Bruch
> RV6, Minneapolis, waiting on engine monitor and prop.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Stratman" <pauls(at)kc.rr.com> |
I am trying to get a feel for costs associated with the paint job. What are
painters out there charging for a middle of the road paint job?
Does anyone have recommendations for a painter in the Midwest?
Paul
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Berryhill" <berryhill1911(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: IK-2000 (Was: VM1000 Lead Time) |
.........snip
>Its newest version (mine is first!) is the proper width to put in a radio
>stack. It comes with a brain box and two read-out units so you can arrange
>the two units in your panel the way you want (I kept it simple and put one
>on top of the other so they look like one unit).
Hmmmm. This sounds like it might be a solution for the guys looking for
back seat instruments on their -8. Maybe a second display unit can be
attached to the "brain" to give full instrumentation for the front and back
seat.
Dave Berryhill
I got the version with
>every bell and whistle, and its going to cost me roughly $2500 with all
>probes complete to go. One more cool thing, when it turns on it shows my
>name, airplane type, and N number while it does its start-up diagnostic
>(about 5 seconds)... too cool.
>
>I've been dealing with Ralph (owner/inventor) and his wife Helene for
>months. Great people. Give them a call and tell them Jim sent you.
>
>Here is their web site.
>http://i-ktechnologies.com/
>
>I'd also be glad to talk to any of you by phone if you want to ask specific
>questions (813) 971-2590. I did not get a discount, and I do not work
>with/for these guys in any way. I just believe in the product.
>
>Jim
>Tampa
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Stein Bruch
>To: Rv-List
>Subject: RV-List: VM1000 Lead Time
>
>
>Hi Guys,
>
>After scrounging and saving my beer money, I finally tried to order a
>VM1000
>today. Guess what I found out. Typical Lead times are now 14-22 weeks.
>Both Aircraft Spruce and Chief said they can't keep them in stock and to
>expect a minimum of 2-3 months for a complete unit. You can buy a partial
>"install kit", but that doesn't help me out much. My plane should be
>finished by then.
>
>I checked with EVERY VM1000 distributor and even spoke at length with the
>folks at Vision Microsystems today. It seems they are VERY far behind in
>production.
>
>No body keeps them in stock anymore. I checked Aircraft Spruce, Van's,
>even
>Lancair (they did have some -6 cyl. models in stock). It seems several
>dealers have grown frustrated with Vision Microsystems and have been
>turning
>their customers to other systems, such as Electronics International, JPI,
>etc.. because of the insanely slow production of the VM1000.
>
>Just another "heads up". I spoke with the guys at Easter Avionics, and
>they
>were the rudest bunch of guys I have ever spoken with. After quoting me a
>price of $4300.00 for the VM1000, they said that was the price, take it or
>leave it. Guess what, I'll leave it!
>
>Now I have to buy some other system, since my panel is done. I can't wait
>3
>months for a system so I'll buy another. Any suggestions?? I'm thinking
>about the new I-K 2000 (Van's is installing in their new -9). I can't go
>with steam guages anymore, because I've only left enought space in my panel
>for a digital system. This only leaves the RMI, IK2000, JPI, or EI
>systems.
>What do you guys think?? I have a block of room about 7"x7".
>
>Thanks in advance,
>Stein Bruch
>RV6, Minneapolis, waiting on engine monitor and prop.
>
>
Dave Berryhill
BERRYHILL1911(at)HOTMAIL.COM
Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Berryhill" <berryhill1911(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: I Need an Instrument Panel Hole Punch |
>Does anyone have an instrument panel hole punch I could borrow (or buy)?
December 24, 2001 - January 02, 2002
RV-Archive.digest.vol-mb