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RV-Archive.digest.vol-mx
May 29, 2002 - June 07, 2002

squeeze since you can't possible reach them. I think I'll use countersunk pop rivets. Any other ideas? Steve Hurlbut RV-7A O-360 A1A Fuselage http://members.kingston.net/sjhdcl/rv7a.htm ----- Original Message -----
From: "Bruce Gray" <bruce.gray(at)snet.net>
Subject: Riveting Nutplates to Fiberglass
> > Hey guys, the nutplate acts as its own backing strip. Countersink and > hand squeeze the REGULAR rivet. Don't use one of those soft ones. You'll > be fine. > > Bruce > Glasair III with lots of rivets. > www.glasair.org > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 29, 2002
From: Bobby Hester <bhester(at)apex.net>
Subject: Re: Cutting the panel - Vision Micro
dag adamson wrote: > > Hello- > > Looking for tips on cutting the panel to accomodate a > Vision Microsystems VM1000. > > Mine is backordered a few months - I was going to use > the dimensions from the manual that I got at > Sun-n-fun. Is this accurate? What are the > tolerances? > > Thanks > Dag > Can anyone tell me the cheapest place to buy one of those fancy panels that has the offset for a VM1000 to go in a RV7A? I think I saw one advertised in Cheif's catalog can't recall the price. Not to that point yet but I'd like to get some info for later. -- Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/ RV7A Working on the wings :-) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 29, 2002
From: Andy <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com>
Subject: fuel seepage from induction joint
During my annual I discovered a fuel seepage when the electric primer is running, from the top of the induction tube of cylinder #4. It appears to be leaking from the gasket on the tube. The nuts are tight. I'm thinking that replacing that intake gasket should correct the problem. Any comments? Andy ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 29, 2002
From: barry pote <barrypote(at)comcast.net>
Subject: navaid and ei fuel gauge
This is sort of a heads up to anyone interested. If everything works out with Blue Mountain, and I think it will, I will have a brand new Navaid with servo, and a brand new EI dual fuel gauge for sale. anyone interested, let me know. Barry Pote RV 9a fuselage about to order EIFS One from Blue Mountain. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Eric" <enewton57(at)cableone.net>
Subject: Re: stupid mistake on elevator
Date: May 29, 2002
Maybe its different for the rv-8, but on the rv-6 you want about a 1/4" gap between the elevator counter weight skin and HS. Unless I'm mistaken about what you are referring to, you are ok - just press on. Eric Newton - Long Beach, MS RV-6A - N57ME (Flying) www.ericsrv6a.com ----- Original Message ----- From: <warrenkm(at)mindspring.com> Subject: RV-List: stupid mistake on elevator > > Well, I think I screwed this one up... Basically, the elevator counterweight skin sticks out 1/8 of an inch past the elevator skin because the spar needed it's length shortened. Naturally, I went ahead and riveted the skin on before checking this so I guess it serves me right. When doing a quick and dirty trial fit to the HS, the gap between the HS skin and the counterweight skin (long edge, not short edge like most people wonder about), appears to be about 1/4" . I'm wondering, now that I'm a little less disappointed in myself, should I drill out all my rivets and redo the spar (probably just cut and rivet a new flange)? It looks like the other elevator has the same problem, although I haven't riveted that skin on yet. Anyone else make this mistake or experience this problem? Any suggestions? > > I'm building an rv8. > > Thanks, > > Kevin > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Eric" <enewton57(at)cableone.net>
Subject: Re: Riveting Nutplates to Fiberglass
Date: May 29, 2002
Hi Steve, I used countersunk pop rivets there. I also dipped the rivet in some epoxy resin before inserting and setting it. The nut plate acts as a backstop so you don't need a reinforcement plate. Regards, Eric Newton - Long Beach, MS RV-6A - N57ME (Flying) www.ericsrv6a.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "Steve J Hurlbut" <sjhdcl(at)kingston.net> Subject: Re: RV-List: Riveting Nutplates to Fiberglass > > I'm talking about the nutplates that hold the wing tip lens on. (RV-7A) > These are impossible to > squeeze since you can't possible reach them. > > I think I'll use countersunk pop rivets. Any other ideas? > > Steve Hurlbut > RV-7A > O-360 A1A > Fuselage > http://members.kingston.net/sjhdcl/rv7a.htm > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Bruce Gray" <bruce.gray(at)snet.net> > To: > Subject: RE: RV-List: Riveting Nutplates to Fiberglass > > > > > > Hey guys, the nutplate acts as its own backing strip. Countersink and > > hand squeeze the REGULAR rivet. Don't use one of those soft ones. You'll > > be fine. > > > > Bruce > > Glasair III with lots of rivets. > > www.glasair.org > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 29, 2002
Subject: [ Kevin ] : New Email List Photo Share Available!
From: Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com>
A new Email List Photo Share is available: Poster: Kevin Subject: AK aug 2001 http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/rv8r300@attbi.com.05.29.2002/index.html -------------------------------------------- o EMAIL LIST PHOTO SHARE Share your files and photos with other List members simply by emailing the files to: pictures(at)matronics.com Please view the typical Share above and include the Description Text Fields as shown along with your submission of files and photos. o Main Photo Share Index: http://www.matronics.com/photoshare -------------------------------------------- ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 29, 2002
From: David Aronson <aronsond(at)pacbell.net>
Subject: Re: Cutting the panel - Vision Micro
Dag: You can do it very nicely with a minimum of tools. As some of the listers advised, call vm and they will send a template for free. If you want to see how I did it, go to: http://solanopilots.com/eaa_homebuilders_projects.htm and click David Aronson under projects. You will see an article about using router to cut your panel. Hope it helps. Dave Aronson RV4 N504RV ----- Original Message ----- From: "dag adamson" <dag_adamson(at)yahoo.com> Subject: RV-List: Cutting the panel - Vision Micro > > Hello- > > Looking for tips on cutting the panel to accomodate a > Vision Microsystems VM1000. > > Mine is backordered a few months - I was going to use > the dimensions from the manual that I got at > Sun-n-fun. Is this accurate? What are the > tolerances? > > Thanks > Dag > > ==== > ***************** > Dag Adamson > 617 513 1182 > Natick, MA > RV-8A Fuselage > ***************** > > http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bartrim, Todd" <sbartrim(at)mail.canfor.ca>
Subject: aux tanks
Date: May 29, 2002
> Just out of curiosity, will you/have you done anything to beef up the > landing gear to handle the additional weight? > > Blue Skies, > Brad > brad@cds-inc.com > RV6A-SQB (slow quick build) > Hi Brad; No gear reinforcements, as I don't plan to land with full fuel. Of course there is always the possibility of an aborted T/O, however when flying with full fuel I will be initially departing from larger strips with lots of room. Of course there is still the possibility of a hard landing with full fuel, but I didn't feel it was worth the weight to worry about it. S. Todd Bartrim 13B rotary powered RV-9endurance (finish kit) C-FSTB (reserved) http://www3.telus.net/haywire/RV-9/C-FSTB.htm RE: RV-List: aux tanks Just out of curiosity, will you/have you done anything to beef up the landing gear to handle the additional weight? Blue Skies, Brad brad@cds-inc.com RV6A-SQB (slow quick build) Hi Brad; No gear reinforcements, as I don't plan to land with full fuel. Of course there is always the possibility of an aborted T/O, however when flying with full fuel I will be initially departing from larger strips with lots of room. Of course there is still the possibility of a hard landing with full fuel, but I didn't feel it was worth the weight to worry about it. S. Todd Bartrim 13B rotary powered RV-9endurance (finish kit) C-FSTB (reserved) http://www3.telus.net/haywire/RV-9/C-FSTB.htm ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 29, 2002
From: kempthornes <kempthornes(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: stupid mistake on elevator
> >Well, I think I screwed this one up... Basically, the elevator >counterweight skin sticks out 1/8 of an inch past the Make a note in your TFL -- (Things to Fix Later) logbook and get on with it. Once you are flying you will realize that it is just a nit. K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne RV6-a N7HK flying! 820 Jackson Drive Paso Robles, CA 93446-1812 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Steve J Hurlbut" <sjhdcl(at)kingston.net>
Subject: Smarttool Digital Angle Finder
Date: May 30, 2002
If any of you want a Smarttool digital angle finder I found the best price so far. www.speedpartz.com 513-755-7205 $89.95 + $5 shipping Steve Hurlbut RV-7A O-360 A1A Fuselage http://members.kingston.net/sjhdcl/rv7a.htm ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 30, 2002
From: "Brad Benson" <brad@cds-inc.com>
Subject: aux tanks
That sounds like a good approach; the reason I asked is that I mentioned to another chap in my EAA chapter that I was planning on an 1800lb gross for my RV6A project (180hp/CS) and he said to be prepared to state how I reinforced the landing gear. I hadn't thought about a minimum landing weight limitation. Thanks! Brad brad@cds-inc.com RV6A-SQB (slow quick build) *********** REPLY SEPARATOR *********** On 5/29/2002 at 7:56 PM Bartrim, Todd wrote: > > >> Just out of curiosity, will you/have you done anything to beef up the >> landing gear to handle the additional weight? >> >> Blue Skies, >> Brad >> brad@cds-inc.com >> RV6A-SQB (slow quick build) >> > Hi Brad; > No gear reinforcements, as I don't plan to land with full fuel. Of >course there is always the possibility of an aborted T/O, however when >flying with full fuel I will be initially departing from larger strips with >lots of room. Of course there is still the possibility of a hard landing >with full fuel, but I didn't feel it was worth the weight to worry about >it. > >S. Todd Bartrim >13B rotary powered >RV-9endurance (finish kit) >C-FSTB (reserved) > http://www3.telus.net/haywire/RV-9/C-FSTB.htm > > > > > >5.5.2653.12"> >RE: RV-List: aux tanks > > > > > Just out of curiosity, will you/have >you done anything to beef up the landing gear to handle the additional >weight? > > > Blue Skies, > Brad > brad@cds-inc.com > > RV6A-SQB (slow quick build) > > > Hi >Brad; > SIZE2 FACE"Arial">No gear reinforcements, as I don't plan to land >with full fuel. Of course there is always the possibility of an aborted >T/O, however when flying with full fuel I will be initially departing >from largerFACE"Arial"> FACE"Arial">strips with lots of room. Of course there is still the >possibility of a hard landing with full fuel, but I didn't feel it was >worth the weight to worry about it. > > S. Todd Bartrim > 13B rotary powered > RV-9endurance (finish kit) > C-FSTB (reserved) > > HREF"http://www3.telus.net/haywire/RV-9/C-FSTB.htm" >TARGET"_blank">http://www3.telus.net/haywire/RV-9/C-FSTB.htm>T> > > > > > > Brad Benson, Software Architect Computer Data Strategies, Inc. Ph. 651-730-4156 / Fax 651-730-4161 "It does not matter if you fall down as long as you pick up something from the floor when you get up. " ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ken Brooks" <kdbrv8r(at)charter.net>
Subject: QB Fuselage Twist
Date: May 30, 2002
Thanks to all who responded about my twisted QB fuselage! Got some great info and have concluded that I'll take what I get and just make darn sure the wings and tail feathers are positioned correctly in relation to each other and a true, accurate fuselage centerline. On a different subject, Bluemountain has delivered! Received my EFIS-One pieces and parts (except the display, which is awaiting parts from the supplier) yesterday, so will begin to install and set up soon. Greg and co. are busting their humps to catch up with demand and seem to be gaining on it. Ken Brooks Attaching Big Pieces ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 30, 2002
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Matronics' Policy On Spam...
Dear Listers, It is highly unlikely that the SPAM mentioned in a couple of recent posts would be coming from the Matronics servers directly. You wouldn't believe how many filters and checks I've got setup to try and assure that Spammer's can't get to the Lists. I've noticed a couple things in the last couple of months with regard to SPAM in general, however. There seems to have been an exponential increase in the amount that my direct email account receives. There also appears to be an email-spread Virus on the rampage lately that takes an email from your email box and resends it as if it came from whomever sent it to you. Included along with the message is a copy of the virus. The messages text/html;" In some experimentation I've been doing over the last few days, it appears that this string doesn't normally ever appear in regular email. It appears to be the unique signature of this particular Virus. I've setup an incoming email filter that spools any email with this string off to a Spam email box. So far, I've trapped quite a few of these annoying little buggers. The bottom line in terms of the Virus, however, is that there is no substitute for a good Virus checking software such as Norton's Antivirus. It is no longer a case of "if" you receive a Virus via email; it a matter of "when". Do yourself and the Internet a favor and install some Virus checking software. Note also that many email lists systems (other than the ones here at Matronics) allow the unfiltered posting of enclosures to the List. In today's Virus/Spam infected environment, this just seems like an insane policy. The thought of redistributing a Virus to 1000's of innocent List members is just unacceptable to me, and this, among other reasons, is why attachments are stripped off of any incoming messages posted to the Matronics Lists. Best regards, Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Administrator Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551 925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft They that can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety. Benjamin Franklin Historical Review of Pennsylvania, 1759 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 30, 2002
Subject: [ RW ] : New Email List Photo Share Available!
From: Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com>
A new Email List Photo Share is available: Poster: RW Subject: New RV-8 http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/chiefs@teleport.com.05.30.2002/index.html -------------------------------------------- o EMAIL LIST PHOTO SHARE Share your files and photos with other List members simply by emailing the files to: pictures(at)matronics.com Please view the typical Share above and include the Description Text Fields as shown along with your submission of files and photos. o Main Photo Share Index: http://www.matronics.com/photoshare -------------------------------------------- ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "3 rotor" <rv8r300(at)attbi.com>
Subject: cleveland brakes
Date: May 30, 2002
I spoke with Cleveland brakes today about my piston popping problem. Things to check are ; disk thickness- .167", as the disk wears thinner there is less mass to dissapate the heat from braking which can affect the caliper and warp it, also the thinner disk requires more piston travel; lining thickness-linings need to be replaced BEFORE they reach the rivets, .100"(thickness of a nickel); torque on the caliper bolts - over torque(of which I'm sure I'm guilty) warps the caliper housing causing the linings to be non-parallel. Indications are crush marks in the caliper housing, little half moon marks; inner brake lining piece(that the piston pushes on) can be warped. Cleveland is at 800-272-5464 or search on "cleveland wheels and brakes" which has a copy of the maintenace manual. They recommend a special lubricant when installing new O-rings. They didn't think that I had been given wrong parts initially, as I had suggested, although he didn't have any explanation of why I needed to add shims initially in order to allow the disk to even rotate. Kevin ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 30, 2002
From: Ken Balch <kbalch1(at)attbi.com>
Subject: N118KB flies!!
Mission accomplished! My RV-8 (N118KB) flew today for the first time with yours truly at the controls. It would not be overstating the situation to say that today was a lifetime's dream come true. The plane flew great; very stable and predictable. Temperatures & pressures were all good. Some basic data: VFR w/gyros, a mix of Van's and EI gauges, UPS GX-65 & SL-70, Aerosport IO-360-A1B6, new Hartzell from Van's, seats by Becki Orndorff, Hooker harnesses. Empty weight 1110 pounds. No wheel pants or gear leg fairings installed yet. Only two gremlins encountered: - A slight fuel seepage on the lower, inboard corner of the left fuel tank. Just a few drops of blue on the bottom. I should be able to undo the fairing, clean the area and apply some more proseal along the seams. That ought to take care of it. - I don't seem to be turning the full 2700 RPM that I should be getting. The engine sounded like it was at full power, so I figured that I had an indication problem (the tach never went above 2000 RPM indicated) and continued with the takeoff. The plane climbed well at 90 KIAS, about 1800 FPM. Pretty good, but less than I was expecting. Level at 4000 feet, with full throttle, I only got 140 KIAS. Even with the wheel pants & gear leg fairings off, that's less than I was expecting. Clearly, I've got an RPM problem. The landing was decent (the CFI in me gives it a B+) and will improve with practice. My wife Jean was standing by with the video camera (frame captures forthcoming) and my friend Ed did the honors of taking data over the handheld. I'll start on the RPM problem tomorrow by adjusting the pitch stop on the governor to see if I can get the gauge to indicate more than 2K RPM. If it won't, I'll get a strobe and see what RPM I'm actually turning. Actually, that's not a bad idea even if the gauge indicates an increase after adjusting the governor. I'll keep the list posted on this situation. My thanks to Jean, my parents, the good folks at Van's (they've already indexed their counter for me) and all the people on the list who've provided both an invaluable building resource and a wonderful community of peers and friends. I'm looking forward to meeting more of you as I begin to travel around the country with my new RV. -- Regards, Ken Balch Ashland, MA RV-8 N118KB Flying ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 30, 2002
From: Garry LeGare <versadek(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Whirlwind Prop Update
I now have over 25 hrs on the prop and it is performing well. If you asked me what I like the most, it would be how smooth it is. At 29 lb. complete including the bolts and spinner, it is almost 15 lb. lighter than the Sensenich fixed pitch, it replaced. The performance is greatly enhanced, as it would be with the change from fixed pitch, to any constant speed prop. What I like about the Whirlwind company, is that they have been around a few years and have lots of their other props out in service and are not going to release this prop until there is a significant service history. For information about release dates, waiting lists etc. call Whirlwind direct. I would have reported back earlier, but I ended up having to overhaul my engine due to excessive thrust bearing clearance. Them my system went nuts and wouldn't let me post to "The List" for almost a month. Garry "Casper" ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 30, 2002
From: Garry LeGare <versadek(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Tail Pumping/Rear Fuselage Venting
Now that my e mail system is sorted out, I have an urgent message I would like to pass on. Do not cut any holes in the bottom of your fuselage in an attempt to relieve the pressure build up in the tail cone. After extensive testing covering the entire speed and angle of attach range. I have finally given up on the bottom of the fuselage as a location for a vent hole. Even though it works well at venting the tail it has a side effect that is very dangerous. At certain speeds and angles of attack, primarily found during the approach and landing phase, exhaust would be pulled into the cockpit. To say the least not a good situation. I tried a number of sizes and shapes to see if I could eliminate this side effect, non worked well enough that I felt comfortable recommending them to you. That's the bad news. Now for the good news. I have put three "Gills" or slots on the sides of the fuselage. These are located near the aft part of the wing, starting at the flap leading edge about 1/2" above them. Currently they are 3 of them per side approx. 4'' long about 4" apart. This is an area that my tuft testing has shown to have reverse flow. My original thoughts you may remember were to see if I could use the tail pressure and have it do some useful work. I haven't been able to tuft test it yet, to see how much of an improvement it has made, as far as reattaching the flow in this area. But as far as relieving the tail pressure these "Gills" work much better than the biggest hole in the fuselage bottom and there are no bad side issues. Over the next few weeks I will be refining them and when I'm happy with there size and location I will post an update. Take care. Garry "Casper" Hopefully see some of you at Langley on the 8th. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Pete Elia" <peteandsharon(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Training
Date: May 30, 2002
Hello everyone, Does any CFI / RV owner in So. Cal. have the ability to offer ongoing training in their taildragger model of RV? I am thinking ahead, and during my years of building to come I would love to build some hours in type in order to make insuring my completed RV a doable thing. I know this involves many issues involving insurance, FAA rules, etc., so I thought this would be the place to ask. Pete Elia ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "C. Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com>
Subject: Training
Date: May 30, 2002
Pete, There's one hell of a good CFI in Bakersfield. He drives an RV-4 and his name is Bob Baker. I got several hours of instruction in his RV-4 a few years back and enjoyed his sense of humor, quick wit, and immense skills. If you're interested in going to L45 and taking lessons, email me directly and I'll get you his phone numbers. Chuck ----- Original Message ----- From: Pete Elia <peteandsharon(at)earthlink.net> Subject: RV-List: Training > > Hello everyone, > > Does any CFI / RV owner in So. Cal. have the ability to offer ongoing > training in their taildragger model of RV? I am thinking ahead, and > during my years of building to come I would love to build some hours in > type in order to make insuring my completed RV a doable thing. I know > this involves many issues involving insurance, FAA rules, etc., so I > thought this would be the place to ask. > > Pete Elia > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 30, 2002
From: Emrath <Emrath(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Flap Actuators
Will someone who is building or has preview plans for an RV-9 or RV-7 advise me what the part number is for the flap actuator? This connects the flaps to the actuator inside the fuselage, and is hexagon shaped.. A while back there was a discussion of using this on the RV-6 series instead of the simple aluminum tubing supplied, as it is a hexagon bar already threaded for the fittings. Thanks in advance. Marty in Brentwood TN, RV-6A fuselage. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Steven DiNieri" <capsteve(at)adelphia.net>
Subject: Flap Actuators
Date: May 30, 2002
According to dwg33 part# f-759a (rv-7)(round), or part# va-256 (rv-9)(hex) are both shown in the plan. Will someone who is building or has preview plans for an RV-9 or RV-7 advise me what the part number is for the flap actuator? This connects the flaps to the actuator inside the fuselage, and is hexagon shaped.. A while back there was a discussion of using this on the RV-6 series instead of the simple aluminum tubing supplied, as it is a hexagon bar already threaded for the fittings. Thanks in advance. Marty in Brentwood TN, RV-6A fuselage. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jim Norman" <jnorman(at)intermapsystems.com>
Subject: Flap Actuators
Date: May 30, 2002
Marty, I called Vans and simply described what you did, and the lady on the phone knew exactly what I meant. She sent me two of them and they are installed on my 6A. They work perfect, except they are WAY too long. I tried to cut one in half to see if I could get two out of one, but the threads don't quite go far enought. Thus had to buy another. Bottom line... even though it looks like there is enough stock to make both of the rods for a 6 from one of these rods, you cannot. I believe they are $12 each (WAY too much for what you get, but they work great). jim Tampa -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Emrath Subject: RV-List: Flap Actuators Will someone who is building or has preview plans for an RV-9 or RV-7 advise me what the part number is for the flap actuator? This connects the flaps to the actuator inside the fuselage, and is hexagon shaped.. A while back there was a discussion of using this on the RV-6 series instead of the simple aluminum tubing supplied, as it is a hexagon bar already threaded for the fittings. Thanks in advance. Marty in Brentwood TN, RV-6A fuselage. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: ABAYMAN(at)aol.com
Date: May 30, 2002
Subject: Re: Flap Actuators
hi marty i just installed these rods. i have a tip for you. don't cut the 3.5 inches from 1 end , because you will find that it is solid in the middle, and you will have to drill and tap the solid part. it is better to mark the middle of the 7 inch rod, then measure 1-3/4 inches on each side of the center line and cut both ends off. that will give you threads on both ends, no drilling or tapping required. i don't know the part number, i just ordered it as the hectogon flap push tube. hope this helps. scott tampa watching proseal dry ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 30, 2002
From: Laird Owens <owens(at)aerovironment.com>
Subject: Fwd: [SoCAL-RVlist] Durango Trip Report
To all, If you don't want to read a great RV travel report..... DELETE NOW! Now if your still with me.... Paul and Victoria have put close to 1000 hrs on their RV-6a in 2 (that's right, TWO) years. Here's Pauls latest trip report to the SoCal group. I thought this group might like it. I hope it inspires those of you still building. I wish more people would post trip reports, for those of us with flying airplanes, to give us ideas of places to fly. Laird RV-6 500hrs (first flight 1 mo. before Paul/Vic) I need to go flying more....Hope to see you at Bakersfield > >I'm late in getting this out but here it is: We had a great SoCAL Wing >turnout for our Memorial Day Weekend trip to Durango, CO! Victoria and I >left Memorial Day Friday for Payson (PAN), AZ (2.5 hr flight) where we had >breakfast with our friends Debbie & Jeff. Then I left Victoria with Debbie >and took Debbie's father for a 1 hour flight to Tucson (TUS) Int'l where we >used an airport car to go to the Pima Air Museum http://www.pimaair.org/ >This museum is HUGE but we were able to take a quick walk around in 2 hours >(the limit on the airport car). We flew back to Payson where I was greeted >on the ramp by Gary Sobek :-) We hadn't quite hooked up in the morning (my >cell phone was off) so we just missed him leaving Payson (he was at Sedona, >20 min away). We had an enjoyable evening visiting with our friends sitting >on the porch under the almost full moon. In the morning, back to the >airport for breakfast where I was kindly asked if I could fly 2 Young >Eagles...go flying...no problem! By the time I landed after the second >flight, Gary/Linda Hart (RV-6) and Tom/Lori Prokop (RV-6) arrived to Payson. >After fueling, we departed as a 4-ship eastbound towards Durango, CO with >not really much in the way of 'things to see' enroute. The most we saw was >a mountain near Farmington, NM called Shiprock. At first sighting, it >looked like a mountain all by itself on the high plateau but as we passed >more abeam it, we could see that it really resembled one of those large >oil-tankers: Big cab/tower at the back of the ship with a large forward >platform. Shiprock is located just southwest of Four-Corners. We continue >on to Durango-La Plata County airport (DRO) landing about 1.8 hours after >leaving Payson. Gary/Tom could have flown non-stop from Los Angeles with >good fuel reserve. We had a rental car ready so we drove into Durango, >about 15 minutes from the airport. There we'd no sooner checked in when >someone pulled a brochure from the wall describing the 'Bar-D Ranch' where >they served up a 'chuck wagon' meal with plenty of cowboy singing to go with >it...Let's go! We made it just as they started serving some great food >complete with tin plates and tin cups. After dinner, we were treated to a >quartet with members ranging in age from early 20s to late 80s! It was >really a LOT of fun and were real glad we went! In the morning, we left >aboard the Durango-Silverton Narrow Gauge Train >http://www.durangotrain.com/indexmain-whistle.htm This too was a TON of fun >as you ride a steam powered, coal fueled Train! The ride up the Animas >River is quite awesome to say the least and there were times that you were >400' above the river and could not see the ground below the train when >looking down! Almost a 4 hour train ride to Silverton where we had just >over 2 hours to look around then back down the hill to Durango. Dinner was >at a place called 'Serious Texas Bar-b-que' and it too was VERY good! Ice >cream at Dairy Queen ended the night :-) In the morning, Gary Hart and Tom >took off for a direct flight home as Gary Sobek, Victoria and I flew up the >same canyon the train to Silverton takes, and we got to see it all over >again, including the Train...in about 15 minutes!!!! We jumped the hill >near Silverton (at 12K) and landed at Telluride (TEX), CO >http://www.telluride.com/ about 10 minutes later. Telluride is 'must-land' >airport as it is the highest commercial airport (9078') in the USA >(Leadville is the highest airport at 9927'). Gary and I topped the tanks >then continued east to Monument Valley >http://www.monumentvalley.com/Pages/english_homepage.html where we had a >short photo shoot. We turned northwest (15 minutes) towards Lake Powell >http://www.lakepowell.com/default.html where we flew the main channel, in >formation, for another 15 minutes or so. This was our first chance to see >this beautiful shoreline up close, and the water lever was WAY down... >Turns out that flying the main channel put us pretty much on our direct >course to North Las Vegas (VGT) airport. We arrived inbound over Calville >Bay (Lake Mead), and I called approach for Class B clearance using the >'Showboat' arrival into VGT. All went smoothly with approach and landing >with a flight time from Telluride of 3.4 hours. We fueled, had lunch then >continued home. Gary split off around Barstow-Daggett airport, and we >overflew Edwards AFB home to Rosamond, just over an hour flight (home by >3pm). Total trip flight time for us 13.4 hours with our hobbs at 977 hours. >We still 'pinch' ourselves thinking all this was possible in a plane we >built at HOME!!! I hope these reports continue to offer motivation to >builders as those Gary Sobek wrote while I was building motivated us! Keep >poundin' them rivets, and we'll check back after our Waco trip! Rosie ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net>
Subject: Re Hartzell AD
Date: May 30, 2002
I also talked to Sam and John at Hartzell, I have two HC-C2YK-1BF both purchased from Van's. One in 1991 Serial #CH29943 and one purchased in 2000 Serial #CH33820B. They advised that the CH29943 which has no letter following can continue in service provided the eddy current inspection is carried out and ever 150 hours of service after that. The eddy current inspection runs around 150.00 and this can be done without removing the prop. This propeller qualifies for the half price hub which is around 1250.00 and can be purchased at this price any time until Dec 31/03 CH33820B is a late model hub and is not affected by this AD. CH29943 is due for overhaul so will incorporate the new hub at that time, this will safe me the cost of a tear down to install the "B" hub. Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 30, 2002
From: "Tim Bryan" <tim(at)bryantechnology.com>
Subject: Re: N118KB flies!!
Most excellent Ken, I hope my first flight goes as well as your did. You done GOOD! Happy flying. Tim Bryan RV-6 N616TB FWF plus -------Original Message------- From: rv-list(at)matronics.com Date: Thursday, May 30, 2002 02:15:01 PM Subject: RV-List: N118KB flies!! Mission accomplished! My RV-8 (N118KB) flew today for the first time with yours truly at the controls. It would not be overstating the situation to say that today was a lifetime's dream come true. The plane flew great; very stable and predictable. Temperatures & pressures were all good. Some basic data: VFR w/gyros, a mix of Van's and EI gauges, UPS GX-65 & SL-70, Aerosport IO-360-A1B6, new Hartzell from Van's, seats by Becki Orndorff, Hooker harnesses. Empty weight 1110 pounds. No wheel pants or gear leg fairings installed yet. Only two gremlins encountered: - A slight fuel seepage on the lower, inboard corner of the left fuel tank. Just a few drops of blue on the bottom. I should be able to undo the fairing, clean the area and apply some more proseal along the seams. That ought to take care of it. - I don't seem to be turning the full 2700 RPM that I should be getting. The engine sounded like it was at full power, so I figured that I had an indication problem (the tach never went above 2000 RPM indicated) and continued with the takeoff. The plane climbed well at 90 KIAS, about 1800 FPM. Pretty good, but less than I was expecting. Level at 4000 feet, with full throttle, I only got 140 KIAS. Even with the wheel pants & gear leg fairings off, that's less than I was expecting. Clearly, I've got an RPM problem. The landing was decent (the CFI in me gives it a B+) and will improve with practice. My wife Jean was standing by with the video camera (frame captures forthcoming) and my friend Ed did the honors of taking data over the handheld. I'll start on the RPM problem tomorrow by adjusting the pitch stop on the governor to see if I can get the gauge to indicate more than 2K RPM. If it won't, I'll get a strobe and see what RPM I'm actually turning. Actually, that's not a bad idea even if the gauge indicates an increase after adjusting the governor. I'll keep the list posted on this situation. My thanks to Jean, my parents, the good folks at Van's (they've already indexed their counter for me) and all the people on the list who've provided both an invaluable building resource and a wonderful community of peers and friends. I'm looking forward to meeting more of you as I begin to travel around the country with my new RV. -- Regards, Ken Balch Ashland, MA RV-8 N118KB Flying _-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_- ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)attbi.com>
Subject: Eleventh Annual Northwest RV Fly-In
Date: May 30, 2002
Just a reminder to everyone that the Eleventh Annual Northwest RV Fly-In is coming up on June 15, at Scappoose, OR Airport (SPB). This is always a good time, with a LOT of RVs in attendance (last year the count was 106!) For all the details, go to www.vanshomewing.org. This year we decided not to send out flyers to individuals about the event as we have done in past years. So please help spread the word to other RVers and wannabees. Better yet, print out the flyer from the web site and post at your local airport, particularly if you live in the area that used to be covered by the mailers -- that is, ID, OR, WA, BC and N CA. See you there! Randall Henderson ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Steve Kimmel" <chs-kimmels(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: AV-10 Availability
Date: May 31, 2002
Does anybody know if the Audio Flight Avionics AV-10 is stil available and supported? I have one in my -6A, and it is a wonderful instrument, but confusing for setup. Steve Kimmel N4357R - Meggett, SC ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "William Ginn" <ginnwj(at)optushome.com.au>
Subject: Navaid Autopilot/Turn Coordinator
Date: May 31, 2002
Has anyone had any problems with this autopilot unit? Is there a better unit for the price? Thanks for your comments Bill ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: N118KB flies!!
Date: May 31, 2002
Ken, CONGRATULATIONS and WELL DONE !!! Chuck & Dave Rowbotham RV-8A (Westerly, RI airport) >From: Ken Balch <kbalch1(at)attbi.com> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >To: "rv-list(at)matronics.com" >Subject: RV-List: N118KB flies!! >Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 16:38:39 -0400 > > >Mission accomplished! My RV-8 (N118KB) flew today for the first time >with yours truly at the controls. It would not be overstating the >situation to say that today was a lifetime's dream come true. The plane >flew great; very stable and predictable. Temperatures & pressures were >all good. > >Some basic data: VFR w/gyros, a mix of Van's and EI gauges, UPS GX-65 & >SL-70, Aerosport IO-360-A1B6, new Hartzell from Van's, seats by Becki >Orndorff, Hooker harnesses. Empty weight 1110 pounds. No wheel pants >or gear leg fairings installed yet. > >Only two gremlins encountered: > >- A slight fuel seepage on the lower, inboard corner of the left fuel >tank. Just a few drops of blue on the bottom. I should be able to undo >the fairing, clean the area and apply some more proseal along the >seams. That ought to take care of it. > >- I don't seem to be turning the full 2700 RPM that I should be >getting. The engine sounded like it was at full power, so I figured >that I had an indication problem (the tach never went above 2000 RPM >indicated) and continued with the takeoff. The plane climbed well at 90 >KIAS, about 1800 FPM. Pretty good, but less than I was expecting. >Level at 4000 feet, with full throttle, I only got 140 KIAS. Even with >the wheel pants & gear leg fairings off, that's less than I was >expecting. Clearly, I've got an RPM problem. > >The landing was decent (the CFI in me gives it a B+) and will improve >with practice. My wife Jean was standing by with the video camera >(frame captures forthcoming) and my friend Ed did the honors of taking >data over the handheld. > >I'll start on the RPM problem tomorrow by adjusting the pitch stop on >the governor to see if I can get the gauge to indicate more than 2K >RPM. If it won't, I'll get a strobe and see what RPM I'm actually >turning. Actually, that's not a bad idea even if the gauge indicates an >increase after adjusting the governor. I'll keep the list posted on >this situation. > >My thanks to Jean, my parents, the good folks at Van's (they've already >indexed their counter for me) and all the people on the list who've >provided both an invaluable building resource and a wonderful community >of peers and friends. I'm looking forward to meeting more of you as I >begin to travel around the country with my new RV. > >-- >Regards, >Ken Balch >Ashland, MA >RV-8 N118KB >Flying > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 31, 2002
Subject: Re: Navaid Autopilot/Turn Coordinator
From: "Joe D. Wiza" <planejoel(at)juno.com>
I had to send mine in for repairs (No charge) very pleased with performance and price. RV6A Joe writes: > > > Has anyone had any problems with this autopilot unit? Is there a > better > unit for the price? > > Thanks for your comments > Bill > > > > > messages. > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 31, 2002
From: Ken Balch <kbalch1(at)attbi.com>
Subject: First flight photos
I posted ten frame captures from the video my wife shot yesterday. They're up in the Photos section of the RV-8 group. groups.yahoo.com/group/rv8list/ Go to Photos, then the N118KB folder, then the First Flight sub-folder. Jean was having a little difficulty with the video camera, so she didn't get the landing. Another friend who was there has yet to download his digital camera, but he says he got the landing. If it came out, I'll post it when I get it. -- Regards, Ken Balch Ashland, MA RV-8 N118KB Flying ________________________________________________________________________________
From: MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com
Date: May 31, 2002
Subject: REMINDER FOR EAA 71 BBQ SATURDAY JUNE 1st
TIME TO FLY INTO BAKERSFIELD SATURDAY........................................ Bakersfield EAA 71 annual BBQ Fly-In @ (L45) will be on June 1st, 2002 In addition to all of the awesome experimental aircraft on display, there will be custom hot rod and motorcycle display Live music all day long Breakfast provided from CoCo's Restaurant (Free), Lunch provided from the Getaway Cafe ($ 7.00) and Dinner provided from the Outback ($ 15.00).....you can say it is possible one might "OD" from too much food on Saturday. Fly In's are free, Drive Ins $ 5.00 gate fee "REMEMBER" This is a charity event for C.A.R.E. (Children of Kern County) so come join us Saturday Lodginging is provided by the Double Tree Hotel, who has rooms blocked off for a rate of $59.00, there normal rate is 79.00 per night. These are very nice rooms and as far as I know transportation is also provided. Contact the Double Tree at (661) 323-7111. I have talked with Alicia Cook (sales manager) and she said to ask for the Peace Wing & Ride rate for the special rate on Saturday. If you have any problems please call me at (661) 393-4100 See Ya There Tim Barnes ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Rv8don(at)aol.com
Date: May 31, 2002
Subject: Wanted: Garmin Pilot III
If anyone has a Garmin Pilot III that they've upgraded from and would like to sell, please contact me off the list. -Don RV8 NJ rv8don(at)aol.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Patrick E. Kelley" <webmaster(at)flion.com>
Subject: Hello again...
Date: May 31, 2002
My name is Patrick Kelley. It's been a few years since I participated in the RV-List. I was building an RV-6A in my apartment in Ann Arbor but when my wife took a residency in Chicago, the project came to a halt. She is now an Anesthesiologist and has accepted a position in Flagstaff, AZ and I am looking forward to getting the project going again. For those of you who remember me before and followed my web site, I will be taking pictures as I move the wings and tail to Flagstaff and will (finally) have the site updated. That should happen around the end of August (the move will be at the end of July), and I'll post the site here. My real purpose is to see if there are any builders in the Flagstaff area. The white pages listed one (not a 6 or 6A, though) and there was a registered a/c as well but I was hoping there might be some lurkers not listed in the white pages. I'm also going to contact the local EAA chapter but if any 'listers can help, I'd appreciate it. PatK ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dick DeCramer" <diesel(at)rconnect.com>
Subject: AutoPilots
Date: May 31, 2002
FWIW, I just ordered a DigiTrak wingleveler autopilot made by TruTrak and received only the Servo kit and installation manual for the RV6 at this point. It came with all brackets and pushrod already made up, drawings, but no hardware such as screws, washers, etc. which my Navaid Devices did. I saw the unit at the Minnesota RV Forum and was impressed by its simplicity, quality, and sensitivity. The unit was all hooked up out on a table with a power supply and could be handled. If you just bump the control head the servo will react ever so slightly to correct the heading and is supposed to be better in turbulance verses an electromechanical unit as all the others are. This unit is all digital and was dropped on the floor twice (accidentally) while I was there and it functioned well anyway. See it at www.trutrakflightsystems.com , click on"what's new". It is available in 2 1/4" and 3 1/8" sizes but the head will not be available until late June or July. Check it out. Dick DeCramer N500DD RV 6 Wiring Northfield, MN ________________________________________________________________________________
From: ABAYMAN(at)aol.com
Date: May 31, 2002
Subject: Re: AutoPilots/ Navaid
just wanted to drop a note about the great service i received from Navaid auto pilots. my auto pilot was bought more than 2 years ago from someone on this list. well i screwed up the molex connector, ( 3 prong ) i could not find any like it anywhere, so i called them , told them i wanted a male and a female, . i received it today, 2 days later, free of charge. just can't ask for better service. scott tampa watching proseal dry ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 31, 2002
From: "Dr. Arthur Glaser" <airplane(at)megsinet.net>
Subject: Garmin Transponder
This is for a friend. He would like to know if anyone has bought a Garmin Transponder with harness and possibly an encoder. He is interested in cost and service. I told him to call Stark Avionics but it is late and he got the answering machine. Please contact me on or off list and I will forward the information. He is currently flying a Long EZ and would like to use is airplane. Thanks much, Art Glaser ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Burt Carlisle" <burtcarlisle(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: stupid mistake on elevator
Date: May 31, 2002
Kevin, I am building a 7 and ran into the same problem with the elevator spars. I dicovered the problem while clecoing the elevators prior to riveting. The first one I did was just a little bit too long and I was able to make it fit. The second one was about 3/16 to 1/4 inch too long and there was no way to make it fit. I called Van's and Ken Scott said he had not heard of this before. He said to cut off the end flange and fabricate a new one. I said I would try it but when I did it was obvious that it wouldn't work because the holes for attaching the the counterweight rib would join the new holes. I called Scott back and he said that he had found out that some spars like that had been shipped around the time I got mine (mid- February 2002). He shipped a new one to me and it appeared to be just slightly too long, but was usable. I would say it fitted about like the other one that I managed to use. Burt ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jim Cimino" <jcimino(at)echoes.net>
Subject: Re: N118KB flies!!
Date: May 31, 2002
Ken, congrats!!! I live in NE Pennsylvania...maybe I'll see you at some fly-in. As far as the RPM, my -8 with 180 hp and C/S prop climbs at 1800 at 120mph and easily sees 170ias and true close to 200. I think you want to get an accurate take and check your RPM, maybe your stop needs to be set or your governor. The constant speed prop will hide things. I had a mag out of time on my first flight but still showed 30 inches manifold and 2700 RPM. Climb performance was poor and temps were high. Good luck. Jim Jim Cimino RV-8 sn 80039 N7TL 50+ Hrs. http://www.geocities.com/jcimino.geo/ (570)842-4057 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ken Balch" <kbalch1(at)attbi.com> Subject: RV-List: N118KB flies!! > > Mission accomplished! My RV-8 (N118KB) flew today for the first time > with yours truly at the controls. It would not be overstating the > situation to say that today was a lifetime's dream come true. The plane > flew great; very stable and predictable. Temperatures & pressures were > all good. > > Some basic data: VFR w/gyros, a mix of Van's and EI gauges, UPS GX-65 & > SL-70, Aerosport IO-360-A1B6, new Hartzell from Van's, seats by Becki > Orndorff, Hooker harnesses. Empty weight 1110 pounds. No wheel pants > or gear leg fairings installed yet. > > Only two gremlins encountered: > > - A slight fuel seepage on the lower, inboard corner of the left fuel > tank. Just a few drops of blue on the bottom. I should be able to undo > the fairing, clean the area and apply some more proseal along the > seams. That ought to take care of it. > > - I don't seem to be turning the full 2700 RPM that I should be > getting. The engine sounded like it was at full power, so I figured > that I had an indication problem (the tach never went above 2000 RPM > indicated) and continued with the takeoff. The plane climbed well at 90 > KIAS, about 1800 FPM. Pretty good, but less than I was expecting. > Level at 4000 feet, with full throttle, I only got 140 KIAS. Even with > the wheel pants & gear leg fairings off, that's less than I was > expecting. Clearly, I've got an RPM problem. > > The landing was decent (the CFI in me gives it a B+) and will improve > with practice. My wife Jean was standing by with the video camera > (frame captures forthcoming) and my friend Ed did the honors of taking > data over the handheld. > > I'll start on the RPM problem tomorrow by adjusting the pitch stop on > the governor to see if I can get the gauge to indicate more than 2K > RPM. If it won't, I'll get a strobe and see what RPM I'm actually > turning. Actually, that's not a bad idea even if the gauge indicates an > increase after adjusting the governor. I'll keep the list posted on > this situation. > > My thanks to Jean, my parents, the good folks at Van's (they've already > indexed their counter for me) and all the people on the list who've > provided both an invaluable building resource and a wonderful community > of peers and friends. I'm looking forward to meeting more of you as I > begin to travel around the country with my new RV. > > -- > Regards, > Ken Balch > Ashland, MA > RV-8 N118KB > Flying > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 31, 2002
From: Ed Holyoke <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net>
Subject: Hello again...
Patrick, Try : http://www.rvproject.com/rvfinder.jsp If you set the mileage up high enough to include the Verde Valley, you'll get a dozen or so hits. Ed Holyoke A former Flagstaffer My name is Patrick Kelley. It's been a few years since I participated in the RV-List. I was building an RV-6A in my apartment in Ann Arbor but when my wife took a residency in Chicago, the project came to a halt. She is now an Anesthesiologist and has accepted a position in Flagstaff, AZ and I am looking forward to getting the project going again. For those of you who remember me before and followed my web site, I will be taking pictures as I move the wings and tail to Flagstaff and will (finally) have the site updated. That should happen around the end of August (the move will be at the end of July), and I'll post the site here. My real purpose is to see if there are any builders in the Flagstaff area. The white pages listed one (not a 6 or 6A, though) and there was a registered a/c as well but I was hoping there might be some lurkers not listed in the white pages. I'm also going to contact the local EAA chapter but if any 'listers can help, I'd appreciate it. PatK ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Don Eaves" <doneaves(at)midsouth.rr.com>
Subject: How to Replace Experimental Airworthiness and Operational Limitations:
Date: May 31, 2002
An A&P EAA Member Friend of mine that does repairs on experimental Aircraft has an RV6A in his shop that is missing the Airworthiness and Operational Limitations What is the procedure to replace them? Don Eaves RV6 131+ Hours doneaves(at)midsouth.rr.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com>
Subject: Garmin Transponder
Date: May 31, 2002
Hi Art, I purchased a Garmin GTX-327 digital txpdr without a harness. I have not flown with it yet, but it's installed and ready to go. The harness was a breeze to wire up, the connector kit is very complete, and so is the install manual. In fact you can download the manual (complete with pin callouts) right from their website (novel idea), and wiring up the harness is a breeze, even for a beginner. I would not be afraid to recommend anyone who is contemplating a purchase of this transponder to "roll their own" harness. There is not many wires, the connector is straight forward and easy. Also, about the garmin transponder itself. It's extremely light, and it's also less than 8.5" in depth, which means that if you are carefull, you don't have to cut the sub-panel for installation. Not a big deal, but nice and clean. I personally believe the Garmin transponders are the best on the market right now, but each person must make their own decision. I spent more money to have a top of the line transponder than my radio and GPS. My "stack" is as follows Garmin GTX327 digital transponder. Narco MK12D+ Digital Nav/Comm w/Glideslope; driving an IDME-891 VOR/LOC/GS/DME/Marker Beacon Ind. Skyforce IIIc+ enhanced topographic GPS. Hope this helps, I know I don't have the most expensive stack in the world, but it is basic IFR, cheap, and hopefully reliable. I wired ALL of my own harnesses, even the radios, intercom, etc.. and it wasn't a big deal. Good luck and have a great weekend. Cheers, Stein Bruch, RV6, Minneapolis. Just finished Canopy Fiberglass layups, moving to hangar for paint next! -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dr. Arthur Glaser Subject: RV-List: Garmin Transponder This is for a friend. He would like to know if anyone has bought a Garmin Transponder with harness and possibly an encoder. He is interested in cost and service. I told him to call Stark Avionics but it is late and he got the answering machine. Please contact me on or off list and I will forward the information. He is currently flying a Long EZ and would like to use is airplane. Thanks much, Art Glaser ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: How to Replace Experimental Airworthiness and Operational
Limitations:
Date: May 31, 2002
Don, There are three ways to get a replacement. First is to go to the FAA Flight Standards Office at which the aircraft was originally certificated. If it wasn't certificated too long ago they will still have a copy of the original and be able to issue a replacement. The second is to write to the registry in Oklahoma City and request a copy of the micro-film. Then with that in hand you can go to any Flight Standards Office and request a replacement. The third is the worst choice of the three but depending on who you talk to may not be too bad. Go to your local FAA FSDO and explain the situation. They may, from the 'N' number alone, issue a new set. But beware, on this one they may want to completely inspect the aircraft or send you to a DAR. Good Luck, Mike Robertson Das Fed RV-8A flying RV-6A building >From: "Don Eaves" <doneaves(at)midsouth.rr.com> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >To: >Subject: RV-List: How to Replace Experimental Airworthiness and Operational >Limitations: >Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 21:07:08 -0500 > > >An A&P EAA Member Friend of mine that does repairs on experimental >Aircraft >has an RV6A in his shop that is missing the Airworthiness and >Operational Limitations > >What is the procedure to replace them? > >Don Eaves >RV6 131+ Hours >doneaves(at)midsouth.rr.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dave Ford" <dford(at)michweb.net>
Subject: Baffling instructions
Date: Jun 01, 2002
I just received the baffling kit for the O360 and the instructions they sent had only odd page numbers--I was hoping to work on baffling this weekend. Would someone be generous enough to fax/e-mail the even number instructions/photos for the baffling kit? Thanks much, Dave Ford RV6 dford(at)michweb.net 231-839-3210 fax ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 01, 2002
Subject: [ George Kilishek ] : New Email List Photo Share Available!
From: Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com>
A new Email List Photo Share is available: Poster: George Kilishek Subject: RV-8 N888GK http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/aeronut58@hotmail.com.06.01.2002/index.html -------------------------------------------- o EMAIL LIST PHOTO SHARE Share your files and photos with other List members simply by emailing the files to: pictures(at)matronics.com Please view the typical Share above and include the Description Text Fields as shown along with your submission of files and photos. o Main Photo Share Index: http://www.matronics.com/photoshare -------------------------------------------- ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 01, 2002
Subject: [ Kevin ] : New Email List Photo Share Available!
From: Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com>
A new Email List Photo Share is available: Poster: Kevin Subject: Mt. Hoot Rescue Effort http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/rv8r300@attbi.com.06.01.2002/index.html -------------------------------------------- o EMAIL LIST PHOTO SHARE Share your files and photos with other List members simply by emailing the files to: pictures(at)matronics.com Please view the typical Share above and include the Description Text Fields as shown along with your submission of files and photos. o Main Photo Share Index: http://www.matronics.com/photoshare -------------------------------------------- ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "C. Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com>
Subject: Where can I find "Epoxy Resin" ???
Date: Jun 01, 2002
Okay Guys (& Gals), The consensus was to lower the air intake scoop using "Epoxy Resin", verses "Polyester Resin"... so I've checked K-Mart, Auto-Zone, Ace Hardware, and all the local auto shops and supply shops (that's a total of eight places available in my small town), so where do I find "Epoxy Resin"??? Would I loose that much strength if I just use the polyester resin??? Thanks, in advance, for your help. Chuck ________________________________________________________________________________
From: KBoatri144(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 01, 2002
Subject: Re: Where can I find "Epoxy Resin" ???
In a message dated 6/1/02 2:11:39 PM Eastern Daylight Time, crabaut(at)coalinga.com writes: << Okay Guys (& Gals), The consensus was to lower the air intake scoop using "Epoxy Resin", verses "Polyester Resin"... so I've checked K-Mart, Auto-Zone, Ace Hardware, and all the local auto shops and supply shops (that's a total of eight places available in my small town), so where do I find "Epoxy Resin"??? Would I loose that much strength if I just use the polyester resin??? Thanks, in advance, for your help. Chuck >> IMO, the best/easiest to work with epoxy is the West system, as sold by Aircraft Spruce, Wicks, and many marine (i.e. boat) supply stores. If you want to buy something locally, Home Depot and Lowe's stores carry a two part epoxy (you can buy a pint kit or a quart kit, I seem to remember) that works just fine. It comes in two equal size cans, Part A and Part B. Kyle Boatright 0-320/Aymar Demuth RV-6 Slider Kennesaw, GA http://www.angelfire.com/my/rv6 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jack Blomgren" <jackanet(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Where can I find "Epoxy Resin" ???
Date: Jun 02, 2002
Chuck, Suggest West System (brand) epoxy products. < www.westsystem.com > Gougeon Brothers, Inc. P.O. Box 908, Bay City , MI 48707-0908 (517) 684-7286 FAX (517) 684-1374. Epoxies, fillers, etc for a wide variety of applications. Also good user manuals, product and safety guides, application tools, etc. Wicks is one distributor many plane builders use. Jack Blomgren, Red Wing, MN -8 fuselage out of jig >From: "C. Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >To: "RV-List" , >Subject: RV-List: Where can I find "Epoxy Resin" ??? >Date: Sat, 1 Jun 2002 11:09:04 -0500 > > >Okay Guys (& Gals), [cut] ...so where do I find "Epoxy Resin"??? > > Chuck > > Join the worlds largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. http://www.hotmail.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com>
Subject: Master Cylinder Springs
Date: Jun 01, 2002
Thanks. Removing the dew knot arkive .... - Larry Bowen Larry(at)BowenAero.com http://BowenAero.com > -----Original Message----- > > > Larry, > > The newer master cylinders do not have external springs on them. > > Cheers, > Stein Bruch, RV6, Minneapolis. > > > I can't find the springs for my brake master cylinders. I > guess I could have lost them, but don't remember seeing them > during inventory. Does anyone recall which bag or box they > come in or if they are sold separately? > > Thx, > > - > Larry Bowen > RV-8 fuse/finish > Larry(at)BowenAero.com > http://BowenAero.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: WPAerial(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 01, 2002
Subject: Re: Where can I find "Epoxy Resin" ???
west systems works really great. call them at 517-684-7286 for nearest dealer in youre area. thier e-mail is www.westsystem.com. or spruce has them. jerry wilken moved to airport yesterday rv6a ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: New Builder - Maybe?
Date: Jun 02, 2002
From: "Ted Strand" <tstrand(at)strandcentral.com>
Hello, I am considering the purchase of an RV-7A kit in the near future. This week I am going to Vans for a factory tour and test flight, and then onto California for an EAA building class. Is there anything I should "be sure to ask" about during either the tour or class? I love flying and love to build stuff, so this seems like a good fit. My wife convinced me to wait until the class is over; to be sure this is something that we both want to do. Any helpful hint, suggestions, tips, etc.., would be greatly appreciated!!! -Ted Strand- ________________________________________________________________________________
From: ABAYMAN(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 01, 2002
Subject: Re: Where can I find "Epoxy Resin" ???
chuck try a marine / boat supply place. they usually carry the West Epoxy System. scott tampa ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 01, 2002
From: David Aronson <aronsond(at)pacbell.net>
Subject: Re: Baffling instructions
Dave: The even pages are on the opposite side of the paper of course. Dave Aronson RV4 Dave Ford wrote: > > I just received the baffling kit for the O360 and the instructions they > sent had only odd page numbers--I was hoping to work on baffling this > weekend. Would someone be generous enough to fax/e-mail the even number > instructions/photos for the baffling kit? Thanks much, > > Dave Ford > RV6 > > dford(at)michweb.net > 231-839-3210 fax > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Where can I find "Epoxy Resin" ???
Date: Jun 01, 2002
Chuck, Most of your marine supply houses will carry West System 3 Epoxy Resin. Its easy to use with their pumps. You can also get it from Aircraft Spruce. They also carry a few other epoxy resins but I like System 3 because of their easy to use pump system and good quality finish. You can also get their 410 light weight filler that will turn the resin into a very nice easy to sand finish filler. Mike Robertson RV-8A flying RV-6A building >From: "C. Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >To: "RV-List" , >Subject: RV-List: Where can I find "Epoxy Resin" ??? >Date: Sat, 1 Jun 2002 11:09:04 -0500 > > >Okay Guys (& Gals), > > The consensus was to lower the air intake scoop using "Epoxy Resin", >verses "Polyester Resin"... so I've checked K-Mart, Auto-Zone, Ace >Hardware, >and all the local auto shops and supply shops (that's a total of eight >places available in my small town), so where do I find "Epoxy Resin"??? >Would I loose that much strength if I just use the polyester resin??? >Thanks, in advance, for your help. > > Chuck > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "rvbuilder" <rvbuilder(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: New Builder - Maybe?
Date: Jun 02, 2002
Ted, Welcome (hopefully) to our happy band of builders. With the factory tour and the builder's class, you will have some first-hand knowledge of what the airplane flies like and what kinds of tools and equipment you will need. From my experiences, I can tell you two things: One...the project will cost more than you think it will. There are gobs of "incidentals" that you will need to buy. The amount will depend on whether you are building day VFR, night VFR, or IFR, of course. Van's will give you a pretty good cost breakdown depending on what airframe/engine/prop you are going to use, but all that other stuff (switches, circuit breakers, lights, instruments, avionics, upholstery, paint, etc.) is not in the estimate, or at least not realistically. Two...you will be investing a huge amount of time. Maybe not as much as those of us who still have to measure, jig, measure, drill, measure, and measure some more before we can cleco the thing together, but you will be giving up a lot of weekends, evenings, etc. Be sure your wife is aware of this. Jim Bower St. Louis, MO RV-6A Fuselage ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ted Strand" <tstrand(at)strandcentral.com> Subject: RV-List: New Builder - Maybe? > > Hello, > > I am considering the purchase of an RV-7A kit in the near future. This > week I am going to Vans for a factory tour and test flight, and then > onto California for an EAA building class. Is there anything I should > "be sure to ask" about during either the tour or class? I love flying > and love to build stuff, so this seems like a good fit. My wife > convinced me to wait until the class is over; to be sure this is > something that we both want to do. > > Any helpful hint, suggestions, tips, etc.., would be greatly > appreciated!!! > > -Ted Strand- > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gordon Robertson" <res0rlvx(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Epoxy Resin
Date: Jun 02, 2002
Chuck, You should not use Polyester Resin on the newer Epoxy Resin cowls etc. from Vans. You can buy Epoxy Resins at many places. Aircraft Spruce has it and can deliver in a few days. West Systems seems to make a good Epoxy and is available from Aircraft Spruce. Gordon Robertson RV8 finishing The consensus was to lower the air intake scoop using "Epoxy Resin", verses "Polyester Resin"... so I've checked K-Mart, Auto-Zone, Ace Hardware, and all the local auto shops and supply shops (that's a total of eight places available in my small town), so where do I find "Epoxy Resin"??? Would I loose that much strength if I just use the polyester resin??? Thanks, in advance, for your help. Chuck ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com>
Subject: Where can I find "Epoxy Resin" ???
Date: Jun 02, 2002
This is good for the "new" cowl and wheel pants/fairing, right? But the emp. fairings and wing tips require the polyester resin. Is that right? - Larry Bowen Larry(at)BowenAero.com http://BowenAero.com > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mike > Robertson > Sent: Sunday, June 02, 2002 12:22 AM > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV-List: Where can I find "Epoxy Resin" ??? > > > > > Chuck, > > Most of your marine supply houses will carry West System 3 > Epoxy Resin. Its > easy to use with their pumps. You can also get it from > Aircraft Spruce. > They also carry a few other epoxy resins but I like System 3 > because of > their easy to use pump system and good quality finish. You > can also get > their 410 light weight filler that will turn the resin into a > very nice easy > to sand finish filler. > > Mike Robertson > RV-8A flying > RV-6A building > > > >From: "C. Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> > >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > >To: "RV-List" , > >Subject: RV-List: Where can I find "Epoxy Resin" ??? > >Date: Sat, 1 Jun 2002 11:09:04 -0500 > > > > > >Okay Guys (& Gals), > > > > The consensus was to lower the air intake scoop using "Epoxy > >Resin", verses "Polyester Resin"... so I've checked K-Mart, > Auto-Zone, > >Ace Hardware, and all the local auto shops and supply shops > (that's a > >total of eight > >places available in my small town), so where do I find > "Epoxy Resin"??? > >Would I loose that much strength if I just use the polyester > resin??? > >Thanks, in advance, for your help. > > > > Chuck > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Eric" <enewton57(at)cableone.net>
Subject: Waco,TX Fly-in
Date: Jun 02, 2002
Hi All, I just returned from the really cool fly-in near Waco, TX (Cougar Landing). I updated my website if anyone is interested. Its at: www.ericsrv6a.com Look under "Trips we've Taken" and click on the link - "Waco, TX Fly-in 2002" Enjoy, Eric Newton - Long Beach, MS RV-6A - N57ME (Flying) www.ericsrv6a.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 02, 2002
From: Kevin Horton <khorto1537(at)rogers.com>
Subject: Where can I find "Epoxy Resin" ???
You can use epoxy resin over top of polyester resin parts (i.e. the old ones). But you cannot use polyester resin onto of epoxy resin parts (i.e. the new cowls, and maybe some other parts). The simplest solution is to just use epoxy resin on everything. Mind you, I'm no fibreglas expert, as I've barely started. Kevin Horton > >This is good for the "new" cowl and wheel pants/fairing, right? But the >emp. fairings and wing tips require the polyester resin. Is that right? > >- >Larry Bowen >Larry(at)BowenAero.com >http://BowenAero.com > > >> -----Original Message----- >> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com >> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mike >> Robertson >> Sent: Sunday, June 02, 2002 12:22 AM >> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >> Subject: Re: RV-List: Where can I find "Epoxy Resin" ??? >> >> >> >> >> Chuck, >> >> Most of your marine supply houses will carry West System 3 >> Epoxy Resin. Its >> easy to use with their pumps. You can also get it from >> Aircraft Spruce. >> They also carry a few other epoxy resins but I like System 3 >> because of >> their easy to use pump system and good quality finish. You >> can also get >> their 410 light weight filler that will turn the resin into a >> very nice easy >> to sand finish filler. >> >> Mike Robertson >> RV-8A flying >> RV-6A building >> >> >> >From: "C. Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> >> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >> >To: "RV-List" , >> >Subject: RV-List: Where can I find "Epoxy Resin" ??? >> >Date: Sat, 1 Jun 2002 11:09:04 -0500 >> > >> > >> >Okay Guys (& Gals), >> > >> > The consensus was to lower the air intake scoop using "Epoxy >> >Resin", verses "Polyester Resin"... so I've checked K-Mart, >> Auto-Zone, >> >Ace Hardware, and all the local auto shops and supply shops >> (that's a >> >total of eight >> >places available in my small town), so where do I find >> "Epoxy Resin"??? >> >Would I loose that much strength if I just use the polyester >> resin??? >> >Thanks, in advance, for your help. >> > >> > Chuck >> > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 02, 2002
From: David Aronson <aronsond(at)pacbell.net>
Subject: Re: New Builder - Maybe?
Ted: You will find a little self examination will help you with determining what you might be in for. If you are the type to follow instrunctions, not to consider "what if I" situations, and able to set a course and not deviate, then you might be able to consider the kit costs, engine costs, instruments, radios, and a broad spectrum of finish costs. Add-em up and fudge by 20% and you've got a pretty good indication of cost. If you don't vary from plans much. But, if you are inquisitive, can't help but modify this and that to make it better, are looking to fly a well equiped and custom outfitted aircraft, then the above estimate is only a starting point. It can really add up at your option. What ever make you are, if you are considering building a Van's kit, you've started at the right place. Also, this list is a unique source of ideas, opinions (Whew!), and also a place to find that you aren't the first one to screw something up. If you decide to build, come back to the list and keep in touch regularly. Dave Aronson RV4 N504RV Waiting on electrical devices...... ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ted Strand" <tstrand(at)strandcentral.com> Subject: RV-List: New Builder - Maybe? > > Hello, > > I am considering the purchase of an RV-7A kit in the near future. This > week I am going to Vans for a factory tour and test flight, and then > onto California for an EAA building class. Is there anything I should > "be sure to ask" about during either the tour or class? I love flying > and love to build stuff, so this seems like a good fit. My wife > convinced me to wait until the class is over; to be sure this is > something that we both want to do. > > Any helpful hint, suggestions, tips, etc.., would be greatly > appreciated!!! > > -Ted Strand- > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com>
Subject: Re: RV7-List: New Builder - Maybe?
Date: Jun 02, 2002
I did the same thing...waited until after the SportAir workshop to see if building was something I was up to. It was, and it will be for you, too. You *will* end up getting hooked. May as well order the empennage now so that once you're rip-raring to go, you have less of a wait for the kit. In the words of Hans and Frans...hear me now and believe me later... 8 ) )_( Dan RV-7 N714D (wings) http://www.rvproject.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ted Strand" <tstrand(at)strandcentral.com> Subject: RV7-List: New Builder - Maybe? > --> RV7-List message posted by: "Ted Strand" > > Hello, > > I am considering the purchase of an RV-7A kit in the near future. This > week I am going to Vans for a factory tour and test flight, and then > onto California for an EAA building class. Is there anything I should > "be sure to ask" about during either the tour or class? I love flying > and love to build stuff, so this seems like a good fit. My wife > convinced me to wait until the class is over; to be sure this is > something that we both want to do. > > Any helpful hint, suggestions, tips, etc.., would be greatly > appreciated!!! > > -Ted Strand- > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 02, 2002
From: Kevin Horton <khorto1537(at)rogers.com>
Subject: PS Engineering PMA 4000 audio panel?
I need to finalize my avionics list so I can go spend some money. I'm thinking about using the PS Engineering PMA 4000 audio panel, and would appreciate any comments from anyone who has one. Specifically, how well does the auto squelch work? Are there any features this audio panel is missing? Would you buy this audio panel again? Thanks, -- Kevin Horton RV-8 (installing engine & electrics) Ottawa, Canada http://members.rogers.com/khorton/rv8.html http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dick DeCramer" <diesel(at)rconnect.com>
Subject: Respond to New Builders
Date: Jun 02, 2002
Get yourself a copy of FAA AC-43 manual and read it as you go...it has most technical answers. Prepare your shop for laying out parts and storage of completed components (Ex. hooks in the ceiling for hanging). Prepare your spouse and make your work area handy for her/him to get to so she/he won't feel abandoned. Expect to spend lots of time and think your way through the project oe step at a time. It will not really be a project but it will turn into a full blown obsession at some point!!! Catch up on all other projects first because you will put them off after you get into building. Find some local builders you can interact with especially some within your stage of completion. Don't worry about tools, primers, fancy metal jigs, gizmos, etc as you will pick that stuff up as you go and knowledge & skill will come as you get into it. Mistakes can be fixed as Van's parts are reasonable or easily made. Happy riveting and remember getting there is half the journey! Dick DeCramer RV6 N500DD finish kit Northfield, MN ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com>
Subject: Where can I find "Epoxy Resin" ???
Date: Jun 02, 2002
That's what I needed. Thanks for summarizing. - Larry Bowen Larry(at)BowenAero.com http://BowenAero.com > -----Original Message----- > > > You can use epoxy resin over top of polyester resin parts (i.e. the > old ones). But you cannot use polyester resin onto of epoxy resin > parts (i.e. the new cowls, and maybe some other parts). The simplest > solution is to just use epoxy resin on everything. > > Mind you, I'm no fibreglas expert, as I've barely started. > > Kevin Horton > > > > > >This is good for the "new" cowl and wheel pants/fairing, right? But > >the emp. fairings and wing tips require the polyester resin. > Is that > >right? > > > >- > >Larry Bowen > >Larry(at)BowenAero.com > >http://BowenAero.com > > > > > >> -----Original Message----- > >> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com > >> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mike > >> Robertson > >> Sent: Sunday, June 02, 2002 12:22 AM > >> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > >> Subject: Re: RV-List: Where can I find "Epoxy Resin" ??? > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> Chuck, > >> > >> Most of your marine supply houses will carry West System 3 Epoxy > >> Resin. Its easy to use with their pumps. You can also > get it from > >> Aircraft Spruce. > >> They also carry a few other epoxy resins but I like System 3 > >> because of > >> their easy to use pump system and good quality finish. You > >> can also get > >> their 410 light weight filler that will turn the resin into a > >> very nice easy > >> to sand finish filler. > >> > >> Mike Robertson > >> RV-8A flying > >> RV-6A building > >> > >> > >> >From: "C. Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> > >> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > >> >To: "RV-List" , > >> >Subject: RV-List: Where can I find "Epoxy Resin" ??? > >> >Date: Sat, 1 Jun 2002 11:09:04 -0500 > >> > > > >> > >Okay Guys (& Gals), > >> > > >> > The consensus was to lower the air intake scoop using "Epoxy > >> >Resin", verses "Polyester Resin"... so I've checked K-Mart, > >> Auto-Zone, > >> >Ace Hardware, and all the local auto shops and supply shops > >> (that's a > >> >total of eight > >> >places available in my small town), so where do I find > >> "Epoxy Resin"??? > >> >Would I loose that much strength if I just use the polyester > >> resin??? > >> >Thanks, in advance, for your help. > >> > > >> > Chuck ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 02, 2002
From: Garry LeGare <versadek(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: New Builder - Maybe?
Ted, Most of the guys on this list are biased towards Van's creations. After all it is a Van's builders list. Like all aircraft kits, Van's kits have their strong and weak areas. But one area were everyone agrees they are best is Resale Value. Your just thinking of getting started and I'm talking about selling. In the real world after a period of time you will decide to sell either to move up to a four place or move on to something else. If you build a 7, 8 or 9 your going to have between 40 and 80 K into it depending on the decisions you make regarding kits and equipment. When time comes to sell your going to get your money and more back. RVs are one of a few kits that this is possible. Take your time, don't listen to sales hype or put to much credence in fancy brochures. Talk to people who have built and have been flying them. Good luck, see at a fly in someday. Garry "Casper" Ted Strand wrote: > Hello, > > I am considering the purchase of an RV-7A kit in the near future. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: ABAYMAN(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 02, 2002
Subject: Re: New Rewards
dear listers yesterday was a good day in scotty land. a friend of mine from plant city, was going to fly his newly acquired rv6a to my hanger so we could make it fly straight. we taped a little aluminum tab on his aileron and took her up. it cured the heavy wing problem, and trimed out nicely. so he let me have the controls. we were at 3k feet in a layer of small little cumulus clouds. what a blast we had dodging, circling, over, under, once in awhile punch though one. it is the 1st real time i actually had tried flying like this. usually trainning or going somewhere, but to fly anywhere anytime, anyway that i wanted was truly gratifying. the rv was running great at 180 mph, 200 on down hill runs which was fun as it got there very quick. i still can't believe how this plane handles. just think about where you wanted to go and your going in that direction. and if you move the stick a little more agressively, you will be going in that direction RIGHT NOW!!!. i had such a good time, the grin was evident, and i told my buddy Lee, Man i just gotta get me one of these. Then he reminded me that mine is just weeks away from flying, Whooo Hooooo. back to the hanger, working at the speed of light. scott tampa dances with clouds ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Eric" <enewton57(at)cableone.net>
Subject: Interesting RV-11?
Date: Jun 02, 2002
I just got my issue of EAA Sport Aviation and in the section where they are talking about upcoming Oshkosh (oops, I mean Airventure) they said that Dick VanGrunsven will be discussing the four place RV-10 and the RV-11 motorglider. Interesting. First I've heard of a motorglider but I knew Van was into gliding. Also of note in the new issue of EAA Sport Aviation magazine is the builder's completions section. Check it out. It has my plane N57ME. Awesome!!!! I love this hobby! Eric Newton - Long Beach, MS RV-6A - N57ME (Flying) www.ericsrv6a.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dave Ford" <dford(at)michweb.net>
Subject: baffle plans
Date: Jun 02, 2002
I am all equipped now with full baffle plans. Thanks Roy and the list. Dave Ford RV6 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com>

Subject: Tank Z brackets question
Date: Jun 02, 2002
Ok, I'm a little confused...I'm getting started building the tanks, and I'm about to drill the Z brackets (talking about an RV-7 here). I understand the process Van's outlines, and I think it's pretty lame, since there's no guarantee that once the tanks are completed that the #12 holes in the Z brackets will align perfectly with the spar holes...and there's no guarantee that the tank will align perfectly with the outboard skin or the holes in the spar. That's fine, I'm scrapping Van's instructions and I'm going with the approach that Steve Hurlbut outlines: http://checkoway.com/url/?s=c9bc2576 That seems to be the most logical approach for getting it perfect. BUT... What's the deal with the root Z bracket? There's absolutely nothing in Van's instructions about this (at least that I could find). Apparently, it never gets drilled. 8 ) And what's the deal with nutplates for that root Z bracket? My spar came pre-drilled for nutplates to mount on the aft side of the spar (it seems), but again there are no instructions. I'm happy to fill in the blanks and make some logical assumptions here, but I wanted to check with other builders first... I'm planning on installing nutplates on the aft side of the spar and drilling the root Z bracket just like the others. Right?! I must be missing something... )_( Dan ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 02, 2002
Subject: Igniting fuel vapors
From: j1j2h3(at)juno.com
Probably not a concern, since the prop blast would tend to force any fuel fumes back into the tank before they ever had a chance to ignite and would blow away and dilute any that did escape so that they would not ignite. However, if you're still concerned, the screen idea will also prevent ignition of the vapor. You can test this yourself. Set up a lit propane torch with the flame firing vertically. Slide a piece of screen over the tip, then raise the screen straight up. You will see that the flame burns above the screen and not below. This is because the metal of the screen conducts the heat of the flame away and prevents the fuel/air mixture below the screen from ever reaching ignition temperature. Fire checks in welding equipment hoses work on this principle. The same effect would occur for a long thin tube, but you would have to experiment with the dimensions. Don't try this on your tank until you've tested it elsewhere. The exact dimensions would vary with the type of fuel, the fuel/air ratio, and the ambient temperature. I like the screen idea much better if you are concerned about this. Jim Hasper - RV-7 just starting empennage (Snip) On another note, and maybe just unwarranted paranoia on my part- Is there any potential danger of the vapors igniting in the vent tubes (and then the whole tank!) in the event of flaming materials exiting the cowl outlet in an engine fire? This assumes the vents are located closer to centerline, as opposed to on the outboard sides of the fuse as shown in the plans? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rob W M Shipley" <Rob(at)RobsGlass.com>
Subject: Bakersfield 2002
Date: Jun 02, 2002
For six years this has been an annual odyssey for our small party from San Diego. We looked forward to the intimate fly in atmosphere. An opportunity to stroll round and talk to other builders and pick up tips to use on our own projects before returning to the misters and shade of the club hanger. It was also very pleasant to have an opportunity to make a new friend across the table during the mid afternoon meal and raffle. The tool guy provided chance to pick up a tool or two and we can always find one we could use - right? Sadly not this year! We make the usual four hour drive and ......... Instead of the fly in this was now was just a part of a larger, (noisier), event. Get in line for tickets so that you can get in line for lousy cold food and minute cups of soda. We were lucky(!) the two pilots behind us got nothing. Find a seat in the tents. Other pilots? Don't think so from the language and the tattoos. We couldn't have talked to them without shouting anyway. Hike over to the planes whilst watching out for teenage kids joyriding on ATVs. Tell another upstanding member of the bikers to put out his cigarrette around the planes!!! Hm! Several pilots and planes seem to be absent this year. Did they come early and leave? We would have if we'd been flying but we weren't quite ready yet for the four hour drive back. Please guys go back to the old formula. Rob Rob W M Shipley RV9A fuse ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "3 rotor" <rv8r300(at)attbi.com>
Subject: fuel pressure
Date: Jun 02, 2002
My fuel pressure has always read high, like 6.5 lbs. For 5 years, 800 hrs, I have flown with it this way. Lately it has started creeping up to 8.5lbs, which is above the green arc on the gauge. When I open the fuel return line the pressure will drop to 1.5 lbs. The plane will fly with the return line open, although I rarely ever use it. I pulled the line to the carb. Fuel flowed easily when the electric pump was turned on. The screen in the carb was clean. I have two inline filters upline of the selector switch. I have noticed that the pressure doesn't vary with altitude, it reads 6.5 at 12,000' as well. Is all of this pointing to a faulty gauge, not actual pressure problems? The gauge is a mechanical one with a restricted line T'ing from below the mechanical fuel pump, through the firewall to the gauge. Kevin N3773 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com>
Subject: Re: Where can I find "Epoxy Resin" ???
Date: Jun 02, 2002
I used epoxy resin on everything, including the old style wheel pants, wing tips and emp fairings. Worked fine. Paul Besing RV-6A Sold (Waiting on the RV-10) http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software http://www.kitlog.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> Subject: RE: RV-List: Where can I find "Epoxy Resin" ??? > > This is good for the "new" cowl and wheel pants/fairing, right? But the > emp. fairings and wing tips require the polyester resin. Is that right? > > - > Larry Bowen > Larry(at)BowenAero.com > http://BowenAero.com > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com > > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mike > > Robertson > > Sent: Sunday, June 02, 2002 12:22 AM > > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > > Subject: Re: RV-List: Where can I find "Epoxy Resin" ??? > > > > > > > > > > Chuck, > > > > Most of your marine supply houses will carry West System 3 > > Epoxy Resin. Its > > easy to use with their pumps. You can also get it from > > Aircraft Spruce. > > They also carry a few other epoxy resins but I like System 3 > > because of > > their easy to use pump system and good quality finish. You > > can also get > > their 410 light weight filler that will turn the resin into a > > very nice easy > > to sand finish filler. > > > > Mike Robertson > > RV-8A flying > > RV-6A building > > > > > > >From: "C. Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> > > >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > > >To: "RV-List" , > > >Subject: RV-List: Where can I find "Epoxy Resin" ??? > > >Date: Sat, 1 Jun 2002 11:09:04 -0500 > > > > > > > > >Okay Guys (& Gals), > > > > > > The consensus was to lower the air intake scoop using "Epoxy > > >Resin", verses "Polyester Resin"... so I've checked K-Mart, > > Auto-Zone, > > >Ace Hardware, and all the local auto shops and supply shops > > (that's a > > >total of eight > > >places available in my small town), so where do I find > > "Epoxy Resin"??? > > >Would I loose that much strength if I just use the polyester > > resin??? > > >Thanks, in advance, for your help. > > > > > > Chuck > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: KJN111KM(at)cs.com
Date: Jun 03, 2002
Subject: Re: New Builder - Maybe?
Well after years being around the Navion Society and having many a Navioner walk threw our hanger,everyone would walk back to the far west corner and say they know someone who has one and there AWSOME!!!Not much more i can say about them because i have never been in one andam waiting for a O-360 to be delivered =)Good luck with your choice and have fun!!! Don't archive!!! ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 02, 2002
Subject: [ Kevin ] : New Email List Photo Share Available!
From: Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com>
A new Email List Photo Share is available: Poster: Kevin Subject: More Pavhawk/Mt. Hood Photos... http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/rv8r300@attbi.com.06.02.2002/index.html -------------------------------------------- o EMAIL LIST PHOTO SHARE Share your files and photos with other List members simply by emailing the files to: pictures(at)matronics.com Please view the typical Share above and include the Description Text Fields as shown along with your submission of files and photos. o Main Photo Share Index: http://www.matronics.com/photoshare -------------------------------------------- ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 03, 2002
From: Dave <central-data@central-data.demon.co.uk>
Subject: 0-320 B2c engine
Hi all Can any one help I have installed a B2c Engine in my rv6 the engine bolts supplied by vans are the same diameter as the internal bore of the conical rubber mounts, the old mounts that came with the engine (out of a R22 helicopter) had a metal sleeve and smaller diameter bolts. I have made a 1 1/4 diameter washer x 1/4 thick to go under the nut to tighten up to is this ok. also the Facet carb that came with the engine a MA 4SPA Part No 10-5217 is this a standard carb or are there any differences in the jet sizes etc. Thanking you for your help. David -- Dave ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 03, 2002
From: rob ray <smokyray(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RV4-List: Where can I find "Epoxy Resin" ???
Chuck, I used poly resin with no problems after 750 hours. In fact, I used the "bondo" fiberglass repair kit from the aviation dept at Walmart. It worked fine and required little driving around. One thing I have noticed is the fillers I used on my glass have cracked under the paint over time but the glass is sound... Rob --- "C. Rabaut" wrote: > --> RV4-List message posted by: "C. Rabaut" > > > Okay Guys (& Gals), > > The consensus was to lower the air intake scoop > using "Epoxy Resin", > verses "Polyester Resin"... so I've checked K-Mart, > Auto-Zone, Ace Hardware, > and all the local auto shops and supply shops > (that's a total of eight > places available in my small town), so where do I > find "Epoxy Resin"??? > Would I loose that much strength if I just use the > polyester resin??? > Thanks, in advance, for your help. > > Chuck > > > > Contributions of > any other form > > latest messages. > other List members. > > http://www.matronics.com/subscription > http://www.matronics.com/photoshare > http://www.matronics.com/search > http://www.matronics.com/archives > http://www.matronics.com/emaillists > > > > > http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: dirtyrottenscoundrels(at)attbi.com
Subject: Cabin Ventilation Question
Date: Jun 03, 2002
Hi, I am getting pretty good cooling air out of the panel mounted eyeball vents connected via scat tube to the NACA vents. Will I get even better cooling through the cabin if I make some holes on the baggage area aft bulkhead panel to allow air to escape? -Glenn Gordon N442E (Phase I competed 6/2/02) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 03, 2002
From: "1532136002" <edwisch(at)isomedia.com>
Subject: PS Engineering PMA 4000 audio panel?
We have one of the older PMA units in our Cessna. In a word, it's great! No fussing with squelch, no nothing -- talk and the intercom goes on, stop and it shuts off. This is as much of an advance in cockpit communications as were headsets, when they started to become common. Ed Wischmeyer RV-4 alum and RV-something wannabe ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 03, 2002
From: philip condon <pcondon(at)mitre.org>
Subject: Free Angle of Attack Indicator
http://www.supercub.org/woe/woe0402.php AOA Stall speed speeds Try linking to this site for a fre AOA. I made one like this years go but I had to wait to College level math and physics to understand all the associated terms and such. This is a true "no cost" AOA indicator. http://www.supercub.org/woe/woe0402.php I included the verbage but you need to link to the site for the neat pictires. Under the category of "intrigue", Steve Johnston (not the same as Steve Johnson) has built this handy AOA indicator More than an airspeed indicator! This angle of attack indicator assists me when I fly slow and operate in tight spots. An aircraft can stall at any airspeed and the stall is not directly caused by lack of airspeed. However, an aircraft will ALWAYS stall at the same angle of attack. The stall always occurs when a critical angle of attack is exceeded. The only flying instrument the Wright Brothers ever designed was an angle of attack indicator. Their indicator used a piece of string very similar to this one. Most Cub drivers tend to fly by the seat of their pants This device serves as a crosscheck and a confirmation to the seat of your pants. When you are coming in low and slow it is a good feeling to glance out at that piece of yarn and see that it agrees with you. I calibrated the AOA by trial and error. I flew the aircraft at cruise, slow speed , very slow speed and entered into stalls. I adjusted the positions and widths of the colored tape bands. As shown in the photos the AOA it has a wide green safe operating range with a small yellow caution range and the red range for stall condition. Materials include the following: - 82" length of cold water type 3/4" PVC pipe and two Adell type clamps for attaching to aircraft -gas welding rod to mount yarn on -yarn -length of 1/4" aluminum tube for color range markings 4-11-2002 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 03, 2002
From: Garry LeGare <versadek(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Cabin Ventilation Question
Look in the archives under "tail pumping regarding this. dirtyrottenscoundrels(at)attbi.com wrote: > > Hi, > I am getting pretty good cooling air out of the panel > mounted eyeball vents connected via scat tube to the > NACA vents. > > Will I get even better cooling through the cabin if I > make some holes on the baggage area aft bulkhead panel > to allow air to escape? > > -Glenn Gordon > N442E > (Phase I competed 6/2/02) > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "3 rotor" <rv8r300(at)attbi.com>
Subject: Re: RV4-List: Where can I find "Epoxy Resin" ???
Date: Jun 03, 2002
A local glass plane builder worked on my plane. He used Rage lightwieght filler(turns green with the blue activator) and unasked, filled the joint line between my wings and tips. This has not cracked after hundreds of hours, much to my amazment. I did have problems with Bondo around the windscreen early on when I didn't know better. They make a filler thinner too which allows you to thin the filler and address the fine dents when finishing. Kevin ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "3 rotor" <rv8r300(at)attbi.com>
Subject: Re: Free Angle of Attack Indicator
Date: Jun 03, 2002
I had a similarly working unit(the save your bacon style) on my plane, that's why I have the "machine gun" pitot tube actually. What I experienced was flutter of the aluminum pitot tube at speeds near 180mph. I cut the tube to a shorter length and removed the little flying wing and have no problems now. In a similar light I installed sailplane aileron gap tape on my empennage. It has been useful in that it starts to hum loudly at about 220mph, a warning to slow down. ----- Original Message ----- From: "philip condon" <pcondon(at)mitre.org> Subject: RV-List: Free Angle of Attack Indicator > > http://www.supercub.org/woe/woe0402.php > > AOA Stall speed speeds > > Try linking to this site for a fre AOA. I made one like this years go > but I had to wait to College level math and physics to understand all > the associated terms and such. This is a true "no cost" AOA indicator. > http://www.supercub.org/woe/woe0402.php > > I included the verbage ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 03, 2002
From: Dave <central-data@central-data.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Climb Rate
Can any one tell me the climb rate for : a rv6 with o-320 and Sensenich 70cm6s9-0-80 at maw Thank David -- Dave ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Russ Werner" <russ(at)maui.net>
Subject: Re: Bakersfield 2002
Date: Jun 03, 2002
Probably right, the format could have been better, but where else can you go and see 32 Rockets on the ramp at one time! There were only about 3 at Sun and Fun! With about 85 flying, that is a pretty good turnout! Worth the trip for me. Russ HRII ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Marcus" <marcustuck(at)cwcom.net>
Subject: RV8 Wing NACA Vent
Date: Jun 03, 2002
Can anyone help, I have received my RV-8 wing kit and found everything on the packing list, but what about the NACA vent fitted to the underside of the wing? The wing is pre-punched for it but its not in the kit, or on the packing list. Is it fitted/supplied later, it would seem logical to fit it while the wing is open and I have easy access. Marcus Tuck RV-8 Wings ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randy Lervold" <randy@rv-8.com>
Subject: Re: RV8-List: RV8 Wing NACA Vent
Date: Jun 03, 2002
It comes with the fuselage. Randy Lervold www.rv-8.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "Marcus" <marcustuck(at)cwcom.net> Subject: RV8-List: RV8 Wing NACA Vent > --> RV8-List message posted by: "Marcus" > > Can anyone help, I have received my RV-8 wing kit and found everything on > the packing list, but what about the NACA vent fitted to the underside of > the wing? The wing is pre-punched for it but its not in the kit, or on the > packing list. Is it fitted/supplied later, it would seem logical to fit it > while the wing is open and I have easy access. > > Marcus Tuck > RV-8 Wings > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 03, 2002
From: Scott Bilinski <bilinski(at)qcpi.com>
Subject: Re: RV8-List: RV8 Wing NACA Vent
The vent is extra$$$$ It was/is a option on the wing kit order form. >--> RV8-List message posted by: "Marcus" > >Can anyone help, I have received my RV-8 wing kit and found everything on >the packing list, but what about the NACA vent fitted to the underside of >the wing? The wing is pre-punched for it but its not in the kit, or on the >packing list. Is it fitted/supplied later, it would seem logical to fit it >while the wing is open and I have easy access. > >Marcus Tuck >RV-8 Wings > > Scott Bilinski Eng dept 8220 Phone (858) 657-2536 Pager (858) 502-5190 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Terry Watson" <terrywatson3(at)attbi.com>
Subject: Re: RV8-List: RV8 Wing NACA Vent
Date: Jun 03, 2002
Marcus, I thought the same thing and ordered one. Another one came with the fuselage kit, so now I have 2. Terry RV-8A # 80729 fuselage & finish Seattle > --> RV8-List message posted by: "Marcus" > > Can anyone help, I have received my RV-8 wing kit and found everything on > the packing list, but what about the NACA vent fitted to the underside of > the wing? The wing is pre-punched for it but its not in the kit, or on the > packing list. Is it fitted/supplied later, it would seem logical to fit it > while the wing is open and I have easy access. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gene Smith" <esmith6(at)satx.rr.com>
Subject: Epoxy Resin.
Date: Jun 03, 2002
Who ever was looking for Epoxy Resin, J&B Weld is E/Resin and it is tough.....it can repair engine blocks! Don't know how much you need, but it is two small tubes mixed 50/50, turns out light grey after mixed. If you need larger quantities, "Marine Tex" is another used on boats. Any Marine dealer should have some. It is black after mixing..........Hope this helps!............CHEERS!!!!! ________________________________________________________________________________
From: ABAYMAN(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 03, 2002
Subject: Re: Flap Actuators
mark i thought i did answer your question. on the rv6 it is 3.5 inches long. don't measure and cut rom one end. mark the center and measure 1.75 from the center both ways and cut off the 2 ends. that way you will have threads on both ends. if you cut the center it is solid and you will have to drill and tap. scott tampa learning from my misteaks ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 03, 2002
From: Scott Bilinski <bilinski(at)qcpi.com>
Subject: Re: RV8-List: RV8 Wing NACA Vent
The vent that cames with the fuse is for pilot air. Passanger air is installed in the wing when building the wing. Be very difficult installing it when the wing is finished. I ordered passanger air and installed it when building the wing. Just got the fuse 2 weeks ago and only 1 vent. Just send Vans an E-mail and verify. I am willing to bet my 2 cents that it is a option with/for the wing kit. :-) Just checked the order form and did not see it as a option.......Bottom line I had to pay extra for it. >--> RV8-List message posted by: "Randy Lervold" <randy@rv-8.com> > >It comes with the fuselage. > >Randy Lervold >www.rv-8.com > >----- Original Message ----- >From: "Marcus" <marcustuck(at)cwcom.net> >To: >Subject: RV8-List: RV8 Wing NACA Vent > > >> --> RV8-List message posted by: "Marcus" >> >> Can anyone help, I have received my RV-8 wing kit and found everything on >> the packing list, but what about the NACA vent fitted to the underside of >> the wing? The wing is pre-punched for it but its not in the kit, or on >the >> packing list. Is it fitted/supplied later, it would seem logical to fit >it >> while the wing is open and I have easy access. >> >> Marcus Tuck >> RV-8 Wings >> >> > > Scott Bilinski Eng dept 8220 Phone (858) 657-2536 Pager (858) 502-5190 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 03, 2002
From: Kevin Horton <khorto1537(at)rogers.com>
Subject: Re: RV4-List: Where can I find "Epoxy Resin" ???
Do you have the old cowling, or the new fangled cowling? With 750 hours, I'm betting you've got the old cowling, unless you've been flying your butt off. Kevin Horton > >Chuck, > > I used poly resin with no problems after 750 hours. >In fact, I used the "bondo" fiberglass repair kit from >the aviation dept at Walmart. It worked fine and >required little driving around. One thing I have >noticed is the fillers I used on my glass have cracked >under the paint over time but the glass is sound... > >Rob >--- "C. Rabaut" wrote: >> --> RV4-List message posted by: "C. Rabaut" >> >> >> Okay Guys (& Gals), >> >> The consensus was to lower the air intake scoop >> using "Epoxy Resin", >> verses "Polyester Resin"... so I've checked K-Mart, >> Auto-Zone, Ace Hardware, >> and all the local auto shops and supply shops >> (that's a total of eight >> places available in my small town), so where do I >> find "Epoxy Resin"??? >> Would I loose that much strength if I just use the >> polyester resin??? >> Thanks, in advance, for your help. >> > > Chuck >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 03, 2002
From: Brian Huffaker <bifft(at)xmission.com>
Subject: Re: RV8-List: RV8 Wing NACA Vent
On Mon, 3 Jun 2002, Scott Bilinski wrote: > > The vent that cames with the fuse is for pilot air. Passanger air is > installed in the wing when building the wing. Be very difficult installing > it when the wing is finished. > Not all that difficult. It wasn't in the wing kit yet when I got mine (very slow builder), saw the vent in the factory 8 at an airshow, and asked how they put it on. Installing on the finished wing was no big deal. Cut out the hole, debur and vacuum out the chips. I used RTV and blind rivits to hold it on (didn't want to do proseal again) Just reach in through the lightening holes. Brian Huffaker, DSWL (bifft(at)xmission.com) RV-8A 80091 Installing step 1/4 Starduster II N23UT flying ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ed Bundy" <ebundy(at)velocitus.net>
Subject: Re: Climb Rate
Date: Jun 03, 2002
Hard to say without more information. How much does the airframe weigh? Solo or gross weight? If gross weight, is it "stock" or higher? Sea level? 150hp or 160hp 0-320? If it's 160hp, around 1025# empty, and at sea level, you should see around 1800-2000fpm solo, and 1500fpm gross (1600-1650#) Ed Bundy - RV6A N427EM 500+ hours 160hp 0320 w/Sensenich 70x78 Eagle, ID ebundy(at)velocitus.net > Can any one tell me the climb rate for : > > a rv6 with o-320 and Sensenich 70cm6s9-0-80 at maw ________________________________________________________________________________
From: ABAYMAN(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 03, 2002
Subject: Re: Thankfully no injuries
isn't that the one mike nellis from the list was talking about? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dick DeCramer" <diesel(at)rconnect.com>
Subject: Import Instruments
Date: Jun 04, 2002
Has anyone had any luck with the Wultrad instruments? I believe they are also called Falcon Gauge. I installed a Wultrade electric turn coordinator as a test, haven't flown yet but I am starting to hear of early failures. What kind of luck are those that are flying with them having? Dick DeCramer RV6 Wiring N500DD ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "George McNutt" <gmcnutt(at)intergate.ca>
Subject: 0-320 engine carb
Date: Jun 03, 2002
Hi all Can any one help snip ---------------------------- also the Facet carb that came with the engine a MA 4SPA Part No 10-5217 is this a standard carb or are there any differences in the jet sizes etc. Thanking you for your help. David Hi Dave Can't help with the bolt issue but I have just replaced my MA 4SPA P/N 10-3678-32 carb with a MA 4SPA P/N 10-5217. I was told that the 10-3678 carb was for a 140 H.P engine and the 10-5217 is correct for 160 HP. I am now getting 100 more RPM on my 160 H.P. O-320 D2A with Sensenich fixed pitch metal prop with the new carb and can now exceed 2600 RPM at 6000 feet. Unfortunately both of my carbs have run lean in my RV-6A installation so I will be removing the carb once again to play with the jetting. George McNutt Langley B.C. Still de-bugging at 12 Hrs ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 04, 2002
From: Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Thankfully no injuries
--- ABAYMAN(at)aol.com wrote: > > isn't that the one mike nellis from the list was talking about? Yes - but they were at Kittie Hill, a nearby small grass strip. Georgetown (GTU) is taking a beating by the anti-airport crowd right now and we don't need them to get wind of this NTSB error and use it for ammo (as if they would care what the truth is). Mike Thompson Austin, TX -6 N140RV (Reserved) FWF http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mike" <mnellis(at)peoplepc.com>
Subject: Re: Thankfully no injuries
Date: Jun 04, 2002
Right you are Mike. Since we were sitting at my kitchen table drinking Ice Tea with the FAA guy when the report was being filled out, I know the proper information was provided. In fact I couldn't remember the identifier of Largo Vista and Kitty Hill and had to go look them up. Somehow between the FAA guys paperwork and the Database something got messed up. Mike Georgetown, TX Fuselage Jig complete ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mike Thompson" <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> Subject: Re: RV-List: Thankfully no injuries > > > --- ABAYMAN(at)aol.com wrote: > > > > isn't that the one mike nellis from the list was talking about? > > Yes - but they were at Kittie Hill, a nearby small grass strip. > > Georgetown (GTU) is taking a beating by the anti-airport crowd right > now and we don't need them to get wind of this NTSB error and use it > for ammo (as if they would care what the truth is). > > Mike Thompson > Austin, TX > -6 N140RV (Reserved) > FWF > > > http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 04, 2002
From: sjhdcl(at)kingston.net
Subject: Engine Overhaul Shop
Anybody know of an engine overhaul shop in or near Brampton, Ontario? Or a source (website) where I can search for one? Thank you Steve Hurlbut Kingston, Ont RV-7A ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 04, 2002
From: Andy <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com>
Subject: hole covering buttons
The metal button things that are used to cover the 1" holes in our wheel pants that we cut out to access the tire filler valves. They are solid on one side (and paintable) and have prongs on the inside that compress slightly to fit in the holes. What are they called? Where can I get them? I seem to remember the name, Belden Buttons, but can't find them in either Van's or Spruce's catalogs. I found something like them at a hardware store in the electrical section, but the prongs on the back are very heavy, unflexible and don't fit well. The aircraft type I had (2 of 3 fell out) have finer prongs and snap nicely in place in the fiberglass wheel pants. Andy ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com>
Subject: Bushing for carb mixture
Date: Jun 04, 2002
I'm using Van's control cables for throttle and mixture. I'm having a problem with the mixture. The rod end bearing takes an AN3 bolt where the mixture arm is drilled for an AN4. My mechanic says customary procedure is to use a bushing. I can't find one of these creatures anywhere. Anyone have any (helpful) suggestions? Thanks. -- Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA Network Administrator Union Safe Deposit Bank 209-946-5116 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 04, 2002
From: Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net>
Subject: Re: hole covering buttons
Andy wrote: > > > The metal button things that are used to cover the 1" holes in our wheel > pants that we cut out to access the tire filler valves. > > They are solid on one side (and paintable) and have prongs on the inside that > compress slightly to fit in the holes. > > What are they called? Where can I get them? I seem to remember the name, > Belden Buttons, but can't find them in either Van's or Spruce's catalogs. > > I found something like them at a hardware store in the electrical section, > but the prongs on the back are very heavy, unflexible and don't fit well. > The aircraft type I had (2 of 3 fell out) have finer prongs and snap nicely > in place in the fiberglass wheel pants. > > Andy Check the accessory section at an auto parts store. You should be able to find a blister pack with an assortment of different sized chrome-plated hole plugs. Sam Buchanan ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: First Flight
Date: Jun 04, 2002
Hey ya'll Don, I have been busier than a one legged man in the ole ass kicking contest. Thats why I haven't been able to do more than spot check the rv list even. At the moment, because its so busy, they can't let me go from Portland so, no, I'm not in Spokane yet. I manage to get home at least once a month for several days at a time so it isn't too bad, under the circumstances. The rv-6A project is going very well. The engine is due in about a week. We bought one from Bart Lalonde. I think it should be ready to fly around the Xmas time frame. By that time I may be coming down to Dallas again, for another Bell course, so I'm looking forward to seeing your beauty flying. Gotta run. Good flying and be safe. Mike >From: Don Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: Re: RV-List: First Flight >Date: Fri, 24 May 2002 11:42:48 -0500 > > >Thanks Mike: > >I haven't heard from you much. Where are you on the 6A? Did you get >transfered back to your town? >I am looking over the FAA AC for testing now. I have to get a program >going. I plane on cercling the field for 2-3 hours so I can settle down. > >I checked out Sunday for the insurance Co. in a 6. I would not own one >of them things. Just as you settle in for a 3 point , you can't see the >runway. >and of course taxiing with out hitting some thing is just luck. I put .75 >hours on the engine with 3 10 second full power runs & the commpressions >are all in the 70's execpt one that was 62. I don't know when I will get >any faith in the engine. It was my first. > > >Don Jordan - N6DJ - RV6A >Arlington, Tx >******************************* > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 04, 2002
From: Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Bushing for carb mixture
Wicks http://wicks.overcoffee.com/gotopage.php?page=113 find the correct I.D. and O.D. - Mike --- "Van Artsdalen, Scott" wrote: > > > I'm using Van's control cables for throttle and mixture. I'm having > a > problem with the mixture. The rod end bearing takes an AN3 bolt > where the > mixture arm is drilled for an AN4. My mechanic says customary > procedure is > to use a bushing. I can't find one of these creatures anywhere. > Anyone > have any (helpful) suggestions? Thanks. > http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Bob Lueder <blueder@superior-air-parts.com>
Subject: Engine Overhaul Shop
Date: Jun 04, 2002
Leavens Aviation -----Original Message----- From: sjhdcl(at)kingston.net [mailto:sjhdcl(at)kingston.net] Subject: RV-List: Engine Overhaul Shop Anybody know of an engine overhaul shop in or near Brampton, Ontario? Or a source (website) where I can search for one? Thank you Steve Hurlbut Kingston, Ont RV-7A ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 04, 2002
Subject: Re: Bushing for carb mixture
From: Denis Walsh <deniswalsh(at)earthlink.net>
The clue is to find some brass tubing of the appropriate ID and OD. Saw off a piece to act as your bushing. Almost any other type of tubing should work also since there is no 'movement" involved. > From: "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> > Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2002 07:28:13 -0700 > To: "Rv-List (E-mail)" > Subject: RV-List: Bushing for carb mixture > > > I'm using Van's control cables for throttle and mixture. I'm having a > problem with the mixture. The rod end bearing takes an AN3 bolt where the > mixture arm is drilled for an AN4. My mechanic says customary procedure is > to use a bushing. I can't find one of these creatures anywhere. Anyone > have any (helpful) suggestions? Thanks. > > -- > Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA > Network Administrator > Union Safe Deposit Bank > 209-946-5116 > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 04, 2002
From: Chris Good <chrisjgood(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: hole covering buttons
Andy, Cleavland Tool sells them. http://www.cleavelandtool.com/catalog/rvacc.html 3/4" hole, $2 a pair. Regards, Chris Good. West Bend, WI, RV-6A, 390 hrs. --- Andy wrote: > > The metal button things that are used to cover the 1" holes in our wheel > pants that we cut out to access the tire filler valves. > > They are solid on one side (and paintable) and have prongs on the inside that > compress slightly to fit in the holes. > > What are they called? Where can I get them? I seem to remember the name, > Belden Buttons, but can't find them in either Van's or Spruce's catalogs. > > I found something like them at a hardware store in the electrical section, > but the prongs on the back are very heavy, unflexible and don't fit well. > The aircraft type I had (2 of 3 fell out) have finer prongs and snap nicely > in place in the fiberglass wheel pants. > > Andy > > > > > > http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 04, 2002
From: Jaye and Scott Jackson <jayeandscott(at)shaw.ca>
Subject: Re: Engine Overhaul Shop
Larry at Leaven's builds up engines for homebuilts. Scott in Vancouver ----- Original Message ----- From: <sjhdcl(at)kingston.net> Subject: RV-List: Engine Overhaul Shop > > > Anybody know of an engine overhaul shop in or near Brampton, Ontario? > Or a source (website) where I can search for one? > > Thank you > Steve Hurlbut > Kingston, Ont > RV-7A > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 04, 2002
From: Jaye and Scott Jackson <jayeandscott(at)shaw.ca>
Subject: Re: hole covering buttons
Would you consider going to the litttle spring-loaded access doors that fit the same hole? They're available cheap from Wicks. Scott in Vancouver ----- Original Message ----- From: "Sam Buchanan" <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> Subject: Re: RV-List: hole covering buttons > > > Andy wrote: > > > > > > The metal button things that are used to cover the 1" holes in our wheel > > pants that we cut out to access the tire filler valves. > > > > They are solid on one side (and paintable) and have prongs on the inside that > > compress slightly to fit in the holes. > > > > What are they called? Where can I get them? I seem to remember the name, > > Belden Buttons, but can't find them in either Van's or Spruce's catalogs. > > > > I found something like them at a hardware store in the electrical section, > > but the prongs on the back are very heavy, unflexible and don't fit well. > > The aircraft type I had (2 of 3 fell out) have finer prongs and snap nicely > > in place in the fiberglass wheel pants. > > > > Andy > > > Check the accessory section at an auto parts store. You should be able > to find a blister pack with an assortment of different sized > chrome-plated hole plugs. > > Sam Buchanan > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com>
Subject: Re: hole covering buttons
Date: Jun 04, 2002
Ace hardware has a section of yellow pull out boxes that have all kinds of grommets, adel clamps, and these hole plugs you are referring to. They have black plastic and stainless versions of all sizes. Save yourself the trouble of ordering them and head down there and you will find all you need. Paul Besing RV-6A Sold (Waiting on the RV-10) http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software http://www.kitlog.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "Andy" <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com> Subject: RV-List: hole covering buttons > > The metal button things that are used to cover the 1" holes in our wheel > pants that we cut out to access the tire filler valves. > > They are solid on one side (and paintable) and have prongs on the inside that > compress slightly to fit in the holes. > > What are they called? Where can I get them? I seem to remember the name, > Belden Buttons, but can't find them in either Van's or Spruce's catalogs. > > I found something like them at a hardware store in the electrical section, > but the prongs on the back are very heavy, unflexible and don't fit well. > The aircraft type I had (2 of 3 fell out) have finer prongs and snap nicely > in place in the fiberglass wheel pants. > > Andy > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 04, 2002
From: Ken Balch <kbalch1(at)attbi.com>
Subject: RPM issue update
My thanks to all who wrote last week to congratulate me on the first flight of my new RV. I've been busy troubleshooting the RPM problem I noted on Thursday. I ordered a Proptach (optical tach accurate to within one RPM) and took it out to the airport yesterday to see what I could find. The Proptach confirmed that my Van's tach gauge is reading correctly (within 30 or 40 RPM) throughout its range. While I was only getting 2000 RPM in flight last week, I was able to get 2170 on the ground yesterday (after tying down the tail). Why I got more RPM yesterday (before making any changes) than I did last week is a complete mystery. I spent some time adjusting the set screw on the governor, and was able to get the RPM up to 2370. I confirmed that the low pitch screw on the prop hub itself was properly set. The prop is getting oil and does respond normally to the prop control during runup at 1800 RPM. Interestingly (and perhaps coincidentally), after making the adjustment to the governor which yielded 2370 RPM, my oil pressure indication spiked past the redline. At that point, I immediately shut down. The oil pressure could have spiked because I didn't allow the oil temp to come up sufficiently before applying full power, or it could be related to my governor adjustment in some fashion of which I'm unaware, or it could be completely coincidental and symptomatic of yet another problem. Van's is sending me a new governor, which I'll install tomorrow. Hopefully, that'll solve my RPM problem and allow me to get on with the flight testing. Meanwhile, any input from those more knowledgeable in this area than myself would be greatly appreciated. I've got to say that I'm pretty dejected at this point, having had to allow several beautiful flying days to pass while grounded... -- Regards, Ken Balch Ashland, MA RV-8 N118KB Flying ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "3 rotor" <rv8r300(at)attbi.com>
Subject: "chinzy" parts
Date: Jun 04, 2002
-not to beat a dead horse , but to make an observation. Open up the latest Sport Aviation to the back cover page. Notice Van endorsing Lycoming engines. Notice the watch he is wearing, a, what, maybe $5 plastic digital? Notice the watch band on this "chinzy" (isn't the word actually chintzy?) watch. He bought a replacement band for a $5 watch! So maybe that is where this man is coming from and that is why we can buy an airframe for $15K. Some people need Rolexes. Let's celebrate our diversity, it's made our country great. Kevin ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Garth Shearing" <garth(at)Islandnet.com>
Subject: Re: 0-320 engine carb
Date: Jun 04, 2002
Does anyone have a website address where the parts differences for the various models of Marvel-Schebler (Facet) carbs are listed? The parts breakdown in my old issue of Aircraft Spruce catgalog I have doesn't show any differences, but it seems to me there must be. I'd be happy with the parts differences for the MA3 series. I have to convert my carb from 140 to 100 HP. BTW I have taken my spare MA3 carb apart and it seems to be a very simple device to work on. Has anyone else done this? Someone else mentioned that $1500 in test equipment is required. What is it for? Garth Shearing VariEze and 80% RV6A Victoria BC Canada | snip ---------------------------- | | also the Facet carb that came with the engine a MA 4SPA Part No 10-5217 | is this a standard carb or are there any differences in the jet sizes | etc. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com>
Subject: Aeroshell 100 W oil temps
Date: Jun 04, 2002
Listers, During the winter, I put Aeroshell 15-50 into my 20-hour Lycoming O-320 D1A and noticed a 20 degree increase in oil temperatures at cruise (210 F.) This weekend I changed the oil back to 100W and saw cruise oil temps drop back to 190F. Anybody had a similar experience? Steve Soule Huntington, Vermont N227RV ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randy Lervold" <randy@rv-8.com>
Subject: Re: Aeroshell 100 W oil temps
Date: Jun 04, 2002
> During the winter, I put Aeroshell 15-50 into my 20-hour Lycoming O-320 D1A > and noticed a 20 degree increase in oil temperatures at cruise (210 F.) This > weekend I changed the oil back to 100W and saw cruise oil temps drop back to > 190F. Anybody had a similar experience? > > Steve Soule > Huntington, Vermont > N227RV Steve, that sounds strange, and doesn't make sense. I'll be curious to see what responses are posted to this. BTW, according to Bart Lalonde you really shouldn't be using any semi-synthetic oil, such as either Aeroshell 15W-50 or Exxon Elite, until you get at least 100 hours on your engine. The reason is that it slows down the break-in process because it lubricates too well. Food for thought. Randy Lervold RV-8, 163 hrs www.rv-8.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: DFCPAC(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 04, 2002
Subject: aymar-demuth props
does any one have a aymar-demuth propeller for a 0-320 150h.p. lyc. that they would like to sell? i'm very interested in trying one on my rv-4. thank you dan carley ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Bob Lueder <blueder@superior-air-parts.com>
Subject: 0-320 engine carb
Date: Jun 04, 2002
you can email me the model #s you want to compare, but there isn't really anything that lists all the models and differences. I own a precision carburetor manual ( they are the company manufacturing the " FACET " carbs. -----Original Message----- From: Garth Shearing [mailto:garth(at)Islandnet.com] Subject: Re: RV-List: 0-320 engine carb Does anyone have a website address where the parts differences for the various models of Marvel-Schebler (Facet) carbs are listed? The parts breakdown in my old issue of Aircraft Spruce catgalog I have doesn't show any differences, but it seems to me there must be. I'd be happy with the parts differences for the MA3 series. I have to convert my carb from 140 to 100 HP. BTW I have taken my spare MA3 carb apart and it seems to be a very simple device to work on. Has anyone else done this? Someone else mentioned that $1500 in test equipment is required. What is it for? Garth Shearing VariEze and 80% RV6A Victoria BC Canada | snip ---------------------------- | | also the Facet carb that came with the engine a MA 4SPA Part No 10-5217 | is this a standard carb or are there any differences in the jet sizes | etc. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "john banks" <tinmanjj(at)ptd.net>
Subject: Re: hole covering buttons
Date: Jun 04, 2002
go to a plumbing supply house ask for a cockhole cover ----- Original Message ----- From: "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> Subject: Re: RV-List: hole covering buttons > > Ace hardware has a section of yellow pull out boxes that have all kinds of > grommets, adel clamps, and these hole plugs you are referring to. They have > black plastic and stainless versions of all sizes. Save yourself the > trouble of ordering them and head down there and you will find all you need. > > Paul Besing > RV-6A Sold (Waiting on the RV-10) > http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing > Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software > http://www.kitlog.com > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Andy" <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com> > To: > Subject: RV-List: hole covering buttons > > > > > > The metal button things that are used to cover the 1" holes in our wheel > > pants that we cut out to access the tire filler valves. > > > > They are solid on one side (and paintable) and have prongs on the inside > that > > compress slightly to fit in the holes. > > > > What are they called? Where can I get them? I seem to remember the name, > > Belden Buttons, but can't find them in either Van's or Spruce's catalogs. > > > > I found something like them at a hardware store in the electrical section, > > but the prongs on the back are very heavy, unflexible and don't fit well. > > The aircraft type I had (2 of 3 fell out) have finer prongs and snap > nicely > > in place in the fiberglass wheel pants. > > > > Andy > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Bob Lueder <blueder@superior-air-parts.com>
Subject: RPM issue update
Date: Jun 04, 2002
check your timing? -----Original Message----- From: Ken Balch [mailto:kbalch1(at)attbi.com] Subject: RV-List: RPM issue update My thanks to all who wrote last week to congratulate me on the first flight of my new RV. I've been busy troubleshooting the RPM problem I noted on Thursday. I ordered a Proptach (optical tach accurate to within one RPM) and took it out to the airport yesterday to see what I could find. The Proptach confirmed that my Van's tach gauge is reading correctly (within 30 or 40 RPM) throughout its range. While I was only getting 2000 RPM in flight last week, I was able to get 2170 on the ground yesterday (after tying down the tail). Why I got more RPM yesterday (before making any changes) than I did last week is a complete mystery. I spent some time adjusting the set screw on the governor, and was able to get the RPM up to 2370. I confirmed that the low pitch screw on the prop hub itself was properly set. The prop is getting oil and does respond normally to the prop control during runup at 1800 RPM. Interestingly (and perhaps coincidentally), after making the adjustment to the governor which yielded 2370 RPM, my oil pressure indication spiked past the redline. At that point, I immediately shut down. The oil pressure could have spiked because I didn't allow the oil temp to come up sufficiently before applying full power, or it could be related to my governor adjustment in some fashion of which I'm unaware, or it could be completely coincidental and symptomatic of yet another problem. Van's is sending me a new governor, which I'll install tomorrow. Hopefully, that'll solve my RPM problem and allow me to get on with the flight testing. Meanwhile, any input from those more knowledgeable in this area than myself would be greatly appreciated. I've got to say that I'm pretty dejected at this point, having had to allow several beautiful flying days to pass while grounded... -- Regards, Ken Balch Ashland, MA RV-8 N118KB Flying ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Vernier vs. Friction Throttle
Date: Jun 04, 2002
Recently Mark P. asked . " I would appreciate comments on the merits or drawbacks of using a vernier vs. friction lock type control for throttle and mixture before deciding. Off-list would be just peachy." I don't know if anyone answered this question but I would be interested in any responses. I am using a vernier for the mixture but haven't decided on the throttle. Last weekend I flew in two 6A's. One had a fixed pitch prop with friction throttle and the other had a constant speed with a vernier throttle. The owner of the constant speed prop 6A used the vernier for all throttle adjustments from downwind to touchdown. It looked very functional. I am completing my 6A with constant speed prop. Thanks in advance. Ross Mickey RV6A ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "cmcgough" <rv6(at)ssc.net.au>
Subject: carb herat
Date: Jun 05, 2002
I have an o-320 withVans carb heat muff, the small one that fits on exhaust above carb. I don't get any rpm drop . Any one got ideas? The plans show a gap between the airbox and muff. Anyone covered that up? Checked archives heaps with same problem but no fixes. Chris and Susie VH-MUM ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Vernier vs. Friction Throttle
Date: Jun 04, 2002
From: Larry Pardue <n5lp(at)carlsbad.net>
> > >Recently Mark P. asked . " I would appreciate comments on the merits or >drawbacks of using a vernier vs. friction lock type control for throttle and >mixture before deciding. Off-list would be just peachy." > >I don't know if anyone answered this question but I would be interested in >any responses. This has to be one of those try it and see what you like deals. I personally hate, detest and abhor vernier throttles and am perfectly aware that many like them. I like vernier mixture and propeller because you almost always need to make small smooth adjustments of mixture and rpm. For a throttle control, sometimes you make small adjustments and sometimes you need to make very large adjustments without notice, like a go around or a stall. Even for a manuveur like a loop where you know you are going to have to make the adjustment, the additional step of pressing in the button is irritating, delaying, and more difficult, for me. Larry Pardue Carlsbad, NM RV-6 N441LP Flying http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org>
Subject: Re: Bushing for carb mixture
Date: Jun 04, 2002
Have you tried a bearing store? Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh Editor, EAA Safety Programs cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org Always looking for articles for the Experimenter ----- Original Message ----- From: "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com> Subject: RV-List: Bushing for carb mixture I'm using Van's control cables for throttle and mixture. I'm having a problem with the mixture. The rod end bearing takes an AN3 bolt where the mixture arm is drilled for an AN4. My mechanic says customary procedure is to use a bushing. I can't find one of these creatures anywhere. Anyone have any (helpful) suggestions? Thanks. -- Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA Network Administrator Union Safe Deposit Bank 209-946-5116 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randy Lervold" <randy@rv-8.com>
Subject: Re: Vernier vs. Friction Throttle
Date: Jun 04, 2002
> >Recently Mark P. asked . " I would appreciate comments on the merits or > >drawbacks of using a vernier vs. friction lock type control for throttle and > >mixture before deciding. Off-list would be just peachy." > > > >I don't know if anyone answered this question but I would be interested in > >any responses. > > This has to be one of those try it and see what you like deals. > I personally hate, detest and abhor vernier throttles and am perfectly > aware that many like them. I like vernier mixture and propeller because > you almost always need to make small smooth adjustments of mixture and > rpm. For a throttle control, sometimes you make small adjustments and > sometimes you need to make very large adjustments without notice, like a > go around or a stall. Even for a manuveur like a loop where you know you > are going to have to make the adjustment, the additional step of pressing > in the button is irritating, delaying, and more difficult, for me. > > Larry Pardue > Carlsbad, NM I would echo Larry's preferences. In the RV-8 a throttle quadrant with levers is the only choice, and it works great for both throttle and prop, but I'd love to have a vernier for mixture as I attempt to optimize the leaning process. Randy Lervold RV-8, 164 hrs www.rv-8.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com>
Subject: Re: carb herat
Date: Jun 04, 2002
The carb box doesn't work very well. Never had ice, and got a very minimal drop. I suspect it's the gap. I never closed mine up, but have heard of others doing so with success. Paul Besing RV-6A Sold (Waiting on the RV-10) http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software http://www.kitlog.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "cmcgough" <rv6(at)ssc.net.au> Subject: RV-List: carb herat > > I have an o-320 withVans carb heat muff, the small one that fits on exhaust > above carb. I don't get any rpm drop . Any one got ideas? The plans show a > gap between the airbox and muff. Anyone covered that up? > Checked archives heaps with same problem but no fixes. > > > Chris and Susie > VH-MUM > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Steve J Hurlbut" <sjhdcl(at)kingston.net>
Subject: 3/32 Pop Rivets
Date: Jun 04, 2002
Do 3/32" Cherry Max rivets exist? I need 3/32 Cherry Max rivets for a few (~8) hard to reach rivets on the fuselage as well as some for the wing tip platenuts (not Cherry Max, but softer pop rivets). Where can I get these? Thankx Steve Hurlbut RV-7A O-360 A1A Fuselage http://members.kingston.net/sjhdcl/rv7a.htm ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com>
Subject: Re: Vernier vs. Friction Throttle
Date: Jun 04, 2002
If you have never had a vernier throttle, you wont' miss it. I agree with Larry, I think it could be cumbersome to have to operate a button all of the time. Venier is find for mixture and prop, but I think the throttle should be left the way it is, so that quick power changes could be done without extra effort. Also, the throttle is the last thing I would want to have a problem with if the vernier stuck. But, it's a personal preference. Love 'em or hate 'em I say. Try both out and see if you have access to the two. Paul Besing RV-6A Sold (Waiting on the RV-10) http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software http://www.kitlog.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> Subject: RV-List: Vernier vs. Friction Throttle > > Recently Mark P. asked . " I would appreciate comments on the merits or > drawbacks of using a vernier vs. friction lock type control for throttle and > mixture before deciding. Off-list would be just peachy." > > I don't know if anyone answered this question but I would be interested in > any responses. I am using a vernier for the mixture but haven't decided on > the throttle. Last weekend I flew in two 6A's. One had a fixed pitch prop > with friction throttle and the other had a constant speed with a vernier > throttle. The owner of the constant speed prop 6A used the vernier for all > throttle adjustments from downwind to touchdown. It looked very functional. > I am completing my 6A with constant speed prop. > > Thanks in advance. > > Ross Mickey > RV6A > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jerry Calvert" <rv6(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Bushing for carb mixture
Date: Jun 04, 2002
Had the same problem. What I did was go to Westlake Ace Hardware and bought a one foot piece of 1/4" o.d. brass tubing and a one foot piece of 7/32" o.d. brass tubing. Hobby shops have them also. You will use about 1/4" of each, but it comes in one foot length. Cut a piece of each tube the same thickness as the mixture arm at the bolt hole. Slide the 7/32" inside the 1/4" piece. The i.d. of the 7/32" piece is 3/16". I used vans rod end connector kits on the throttle arm and the mixture arm. Jerry Calvert Edmond Ok -6 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mike Thompson" <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com> Subject: Re: RV-List: Bushing for carb mixture > > > Wicks > > http://wicks.overcoffee.com/gotopage.php?page=113 > > find the correct I.D. and O.D. > > - Mike > > > --- "Van Artsdalen, Scott" wrote: > > > > > > I'm using Van's control cables for throttle and mixture. I'm having > > a > > problem with the mixture. The rod end bearing takes an AN3 bolt > > where the > > mixture arm is drilled for an AN4. My mechanic says customary > > procedure is > > to use a bushing. I can't find one of these creatures anywhere. > > Anyone > > have any (helpful) suggestions? Thanks. > > > > > http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Freddie Hegler" <maxhegler(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: 3/32 Pop Rivets
Date: Jun 04, 2002
You can find the 3/32 Cherry Max at Aircraft Spruce. They list in their catalog for .31 each, but it may be a misprint as I got 100 for $13.00. I believe they also have softer 3/32 pop rivets. Max >From: "Steve J Hurlbut" <sjhdcl(at)kingston.net> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >To: "RV-7 YAHOO" , >Subject: RV-List: 3/32 Pop Rivets >Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2002 18:23:13 -0500 > > >Do 3/32" Cherry Max rivets exist? > >I need 3/32 Cherry Max rivets for a few (~8) hard to reach rivets on the >fuselage >as well as some for the wing tip platenuts (not Cherry Max, but softer pop >rivets). >Where can I get these? > >Thankx >Steve Hurlbut >RV-7A >O-360 A1A >Fuselage >http://members.kingston.net/sjhdcl/rv7a.htm > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 04, 2002
Subject: Re: Bushing for carb mixture
From: Don Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com>
I took 1/4 copper rod ( 4 foot long) & cut a little bitty peace out & after three trys got a bushing. after drilling a centered 3/16 ths hole there is not much wall left. I don't think you can find one. Don Jordan - N6DJ - RV6A Arlington, Tx ******************************* writes: > > > I'm using Van's control cables for throttle and mixture. I'm having > a > problem with the mixture. The rod end bearing takes an AN3 bolt > where the > mixture arm is drilled for an AN4. My mechanic says customary > procedure is > to use a bushing. I can't find one of these creatures anywhere. > Anyone > have any (helpful) suggestions? Thanks. > > -- > Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA > Network Administrator > Union Safe Deposit Bank > 209-946-5116 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 04, 2002
From: Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com>
Subject: Re: Vernier vs. Friction Throttle
Larry Pardue wrote: > > > > > > > >Recently Mark P. asked . " I would appreciate comments on the merits or > >drawbacks of using a vernier vs. friction lock type control for throttle and > >mixture before deciding. Off-list would be just peachy." > > > >I don't know if anyone answered this question but I would be interested in > >any responses. > > This has to be one of those try it and see what you like deals. > > I personally hate, detest and abhor vernier throttles and am perfectly > aware that many like them. I like vernier mixture and propeller because > you almost always need to make small smooth adjustments of mixture and > rpm. For a throttle control, sometimes you make small adjustments and > sometimes you need to make very large adjustments without notice, like a > go around or a stall. Even for a manuveur like a loop where you know you > are going to have to make the adjustment, the additional step of pressing > in the button is irritating, delaying, and more difficult, for me. > > Larry Pardue > Carlsbad, NM > > RV-6 N441LP Flying I agree with Larry; if you ever do any formation flying, you'll hate the vernier. Also, I've flown planes with vernier throttles that would rotate in or out from normal vibration during flight (which rendered the 'locking' feature useless). If you don't want the quadrant style controls, try the Swift association http://www.swiftparts.com/swiftparts/ for a panel mount push-pull throttle that looks like a vernier, but has a 1/8 turn twist to lock, instead of the pushbutton in the end of the knob. This control may be available from normal suppliers, but in my limited experience I've only seen them on Swifts. Charlie ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RVer273sb(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 04, 2002
Subject: Re: 3/32 Pop Rivets
rv-list You will find the 3/32 blind rivets available are Cherry brand but not Cherry Max. All cherry Max rivets have the locking collar and the set washer on the stem. Stewart RV 4 Co ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 04, 2002
From: Phat Phil <phugoid(at)attbi.com>
Subject: Re: Vernier vs. Friction Throttle
Well everybody seems to hate the vernier throttle so I guess i'll chime in with support for it. I've been flying one for 5 years now. It takes a little getting used to but after a short period it's no brainer. Pushing the button in becomes second nature you don't even think about it. For formation flying it's the cats meow. To stay tight you have to make lots of small adjustments. For acro I just hold the throttle with two finger and hold the button in with my palm. (I think) Like I said you don't even think about it. If you've never had one you won't miss it. Once you get used to one you won't go back. Phil >>> >>>Recently Mark P. asked . " I would appreciate comments on the merits or >>>drawbacks of using a vernier vs. friction lock type control for throttle and >>>mixture before deciding. Off-list would be just peachy." >>> >>>I don't know if anyone answered this question but I would be interested in >>>any responses. >>> >>This has to be one of those try it and see what you like deals. >> >>I personally hate, detest and abhor vernier throttles and am perfectly >>aware that many like them. I like vernier mixture and propeller because >>you almost always need to make small smooth adjustments of mixture and >>rpm. For a throttle control, sometimes you make small adjustments and >>sometimes you need to make very large adjustments without notice, like a >>go around or a stall. Even for a manuveur like a loop where you know you >>are going to have to make the adjustment, the additional step of pressing >>in the button is irritating, delaying, and more difficult, for me. >> >>Larry Pardue >>Carlsbad, NM >> >>RV-6 N441LP Flying >> > >I agree with Larry; if you ever do any formation flying, >you'll hate the vernier. Also, I've flown planes with >vernier throttles that would rotate in or out from normal >vibration during flight (which rendered the 'locking' >feature useless). > >If you don't want the quadrant style controls, try the Swift >association > >http://www.swiftparts.com/swiftparts/ > >for a panel mount push-pull throttle that looks like a >vernier, but has a 1/8 turn twist to lock, instead of the >pushbutton in the end of the knob. This control may be >available from normal suppliers, but in my limited >experience I've only seen them on Swifts. > >Charlie > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randy Compton" <rdcompton(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Aeroshell 100 W oil temps
Date: Jun 04, 2002
----- Original Message ----- From: "Randy Lervold" <randy@rv-8.com> Subject: Re: RV-List: Aeroshell 100 W oil temps >BTW, according to Bart Lalonde you really > shouldn't be using any semi-synthetic oil, such as either Aeroshell 15W-50 > or Exxon Elite, until you get at least 100 hours on your engine. The reason > is that it slows down the break-in process because it lubricates too well. > Food for thought. > > Randy Lervold > RV-8, 163 hrs Hmmm....now I'm worried. I just got my engine back in service after a major overhaul, and the overhaul shop put 20W-50 Phillips mineral oil in it. I must admit I was expecting single weight Aeroshell mineral oil, especially seeing as how summer temps have fully arrived here in the southeast. Does the admonition not to use a multi-grade oil prior to 100 hours not apply to mineral oil? I've just started the break-in process (I've only flown one flight post-overhaul) and now I'm wondering if I should drain the oil and put in single-weight Aeroshell. Randy Compton RV-3 148CW Gulf Breeze, FL ________________________________________________________________________________
From: KBoatri144(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 04, 2002
Subject: Re: Aeroshell 100 W oil temps
In a message dated 6/4/02 10:50:40 PM Eastern Daylight Time, rdcompton(at)earthlink.net writes: << Hmmm....now I'm worried. I just got my engine back in service after a major overhaul, and the overhaul shop put 20W-50 Phillips mineral oil in it. I must admit I was expecting single weight Aeroshell mineral oil, especially seeing as how summer temps have fully arrived here in the southeast. Does the admonition not to use a multi-grade oil prior to 100 hours not apply to mineral oil? I've just started the break-in process (I've only flown one flight post-overhaul) and now I'm wondering if I should drain the oil and put in single-weight Aeroshell. Randy Compton RV-3 148CW Gulf Breeze, FL >> The Sky Ranch Engineering Manual specifically mentions using a mineral oil (not a semi-synthetic) on Page 155. It also indicates that Phillips multi viscosity type "M" is one of the recommended break-in oils. Phillips type "M" is (apparently) a mineral oil... Phillips X/C is semi-synthetic, and would be a bad choice for break-in. Kyle Boatright 0-320/Aymar Demuth RV-6 Slider Kennesaw, GA http://www.angelfire.com/my/rv6 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Tim Shultz" <ttshultz(at)attbi.com>
Subject: Re: Vernier vs. Friction Throttle
Date: Jun 04, 2002
From: "Phat Phil" <phugoid(at)attbi.com> > Pushing the button in becomes second nature you don't even think about > it. For formation flying it's the cats meow. To stay tight you have to > make lots of small adjustments. I've never done acro or formation flying, so please take no offense at the following comment. In my *opinion*, getting used to routinely pushing in the button to adjust throttle is a BAD habit from a safety standpoint. If you've ever flown with a commercial student who had a brain-lapse and pushed the button in and pulled the red-knobbed "throttle" back to setup for landing on downwind, you know why this is a bad idea. I've seen more than one pilot put their hand on the mixture rather than the throttle before realizing the mistake. Heck, even the examiner on my CFI checkride a couple years ago "illustrated" this for me expecting me to catch it (which I did). If the throttle doesn't come back, I'd be apalled to see someone push the button then start yanking. In any single-engine fixed pitch Cessna, this mistake will result in engine failure if not caught soon enough. I would be concerned about the bad habits formed by any builders who set up their RV this way, then decide to transition back to the light Cessna varieties. Tim Shultz RV-7A Emp,Wing ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net>
Subject: Re: 6a lower cowl corner fit?
Date: Jun 04, 2002
Hello Listers, I'm in search of key word and phrase suggestions for searching the RV-list archives. Any how to's would help also. Kit type: RV6a O-360-A1A with C/S Problem: The bottom corners of the lower cowl do not match the contour of the fuselage skins. The radius of the fuselage lower corners is smaller and protrudes out from the larger radius of the cowl itself. the result is two very nice intake scoops that are not in the design. It's obvious to me that some fiberglass and epoxy work to make the cowl conform to the fuselage is called for. I don't remember any emails that refer to this cowl fit anomaly; Although I can still hide my own easter eggs and retrieve them with some measure of success, it's all the not so long lost stuff I find during the egg hiding that has me somewhat concerned. }:-)! I digress, As a plastic materials novice I can think of several approaches to this fiberglass layup task but just wondered if and how others solved the puzzle. I can't quite picture a step by step procedure that will get the job done with a minimum of hassle. Jim in Kelowna ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net>
Subject: RPM issue up-date
Date: Jun 04, 2002
Hi Ken: If you exercise the prop at 1700 RPM with the engine warmed up a bit how much of a drop do you get with the prop control pulled to full course. Eustace Bowhay - Blind Bay, BC. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com>
Subject: Re: 6a lower cowl corner fit?
Date: Jun 04, 2002
I had the same problem. See http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing/cowlp.htm to see how I fixed mine. Paul Besing RV-6A Sold (Waiting on the RV-10) http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software http://www.kitlog.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> Subject: RV-List: Re: 6a lower cowl corner fit? > > Hello Listers, > > I'm in search of key word and phrase suggestions for searching the RV-list > archives. Any how to's would help also. > > Kit type: > RV6a O-360-A1A with C/S > > Problem: > The bottom corners of the lower cowl do not match the contour of the > fuselage skins. The radius of the fuselage lower corners is smaller and > protrudes out from the larger radius of the cowl itself. the result is two > very nice intake scoops that are not in the design. It's obvious to me that > some fiberglass and epoxy work to make the cowl conform to the fuselage is > called for. > > I don't remember any emails that refer to this cowl fit anomaly; Although I > can still hide my own easter eggs and retrieve them with some measure of > success, it's all the not so long lost stuff I find during the egg hiding > that has me somewhat concerned. }:-)! > > I digress, As a plastic materials novice I can think of several approaches > to this fiberglass layup task but just wondered if and how others solved the > puzzle. I can't quite picture a step by step procedure that will get the job > done with a minimum of hassle. > > Jim in Kelowna > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 04, 2002
From: Chris Good <chrisjgood(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: 6a lower cowl corner fit?
Jim, I believe the cowl/fuselage lower corner mismatch is standard with the early 6/6A epoxy honeycomb cowls. I just used an epoxy/flox mixture to build up the cowling corners to fair them to the fuselage. Then finished with epoxy/micro filler. I think I faired it about 3 inches onto the cowl. If you look closely, you can see where it was done, but it certainly isn't obvious. Regards, Chris Good, West Bend, WI RV-6A 390 hrs. --- Jim Jewell wrote: > > Hello Listers, > > I'm in search of key word and phrase suggestions for searching the RV-list > archives. Any how to's would help also. > > Kit type: > RV6a O-360-A1A with C/S > > Problem: > The bottom corners of the lower cowl do not match the contour of the > fuselage skins. The radius of the fuselage lower corners is smaller and > protrudes out from the larger radius of the cowl itself. the result is two > very nice intake scoops that are not in the design. It's obvious to me that > some fiberglass and epoxy work to make the cowl conform to the fuselage is > called for. > > I don't remember any emails that refer to this cowl fit anomaly; Although I > can still hide my own easter eggs and retrieve them with some measure of > success, it's all the not so long lost stuff I find during the egg hiding > that has me somewhat concerned. }:-)! > > I digress, As a plastic materials novice I can think of several approaches > to this fiberglass layup task but just wondered if and how others solved the > puzzle. I can't quite picture a step by step procedure that will get the job > done with a minimum of hassle. > > Jim in Kelowna > > > > > > http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 04, 2002
From: Garry LeGare <versadek(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Aeroshell 100 W oil temps
Randy, the Phillips multi-weight is fine I used it when I overhauled "Caspers" engine and oil consumption stabilized after about 10 Hrs. Garry "Casper" Randy Compton wrote: > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Randy Lervold" <randy@rv-8.com> > To: > Subject: Re: RV-List: Aeroshell 100 W oil temps > > >BTW, according to Bart Lalonde you really > > shouldn't be using any semi-synthetic oil, such as either Aeroshell 15W-50 > > or Exxon Elite, until you get at least 100 hours on your engine. The > reason > > is that it slows down the break-in process because it lubricates too well. > > Food for thought. > > > > Randy Lervold > > RV-8, 163 hrs > > Hmmm....now I'm worried. I just got my engine back in service after a major > overhaul, and the overhaul shop put 20W-50 Phillips mineral oil in it. I ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 04, 2002
From: Phat Phil <phugoid(at)attbi.com>
Subject: Re: Vernier vs. Friction Throttle
We're not talking about training here are we? And since when is learning to use your throttle properly a bad habit? Phil Tim Shultz wrote: > >From: "Phat Phil" <phugoid(at)attbi.com> > >>Pushing the button in becomes second nature you don't even think about >>it. For formation flying it's the cats meow. To stay tight you have to >>make lots of small adjustments. >> > >I've never done acro or formation flying, so please take no offense at the >following comment. In my *opinion*, getting used to routinely pushing in >the button to adjust throttle is a BAD habit from a safety standpoint. If >you've ever flown with a commercial student who had a brain-lapse and pushed >the button in and pulled the red-knobbed "throttle" back to setup for >landing on downwind, you know why this is a bad idea. I've seen more than >one pilot put their hand on the mixture rather than the throttle before >realizing the mistake. Heck, even the examiner on my CFI checkride a couple >years ago "illustrated" this for me expecting me to catch it (which I did). >If the throttle doesn't come back, I'd be apalled to see someone push the >button then start yanking. In any single-engine fixed pitch Cessna, this >mistake will result in engine failure if not caught soon enough. I would be >concerned about the bad habits formed by any builders who set up their RV >this way, then decide to transition back to the light Cessna varieties. > >Tim Shultz >RV-7A Emp,Wing > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "3 rotor" <rv8r300(at)attbi.com>
Subject: Re: 6a lower cowl corner fit?
Date: Jun 04, 2002
that's right, they don't fit, but then originally the -6 shot the gear leg thru there and it didn't matter. So the joke again (the first time was how the gear leg sockets attach to the spar) is on you, the -6A builder. Buy some "Rage" body filler, a wide spreader, and build up the cowl to where you don't have unwanted "air scoops". Kevin -6A ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> Subject: RV-List: Re: 6a lower cowl corner fit? > > Hello Listers, > > I'm in search of key word and phrase suggestions for searching the RV-list > archives. Any how to's would help also. > > Kit type: > RV6a O-360-A1A with C/S > > Problem: > The bottom corners of the lower cowl do not match the contour of the > fuselage skins. The radius of the fuselage lower corners is smaller and > protrudes out from the larger radius of the cowl itself. the result is two > very nice intake scoops that are not in the design. It's obvious to me that > some fiberglass and epoxy work to make the cowl conform to the fuselage is > called for. > > I don't remember any emails that refer to this cowl fit anomaly; Although I > can still hide my own easter eggs and retrieve them with some measure of > success, it's all the not so long lost stuff I find during the egg hiding > that has me somewhat concerned. }:-)! > > I digress, As a plastic materials novice I can think of several approaches > to this fiberglass layup task but just wondered if and how others solved the > puzzle. I can't quite picture a step by step procedure that will get the job > done with a minimum of hassle. > > Jim in Kelowna > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 04, 2002
From: Jim Oke <wjoke(at)shaw.ca>
Subject: Re: Engine Overhaul Shop
Hi Steve; Engine time for you, is it ?? A lot of guys seem to like AeroSport Power in Kamloops, BC. I was wondering where to go for my engine and then purchased an O-320 privately that had just been overhauled by them (avoiding GST, etc). Looks nice although I have not run it yet. Good support with a few added parts supplied to put on etc. with no charge. Something to look at when you are in Winnipeg. AeroSPort has a web site that should be easy to find, although a phone call will probably be the best. Shipping from Kamloops to Kingston will be a few bucks. My crate was 400 lbs and cost $175 to move it from Kamloops to Winnipeg. Cheers, Jim ----- Original Message ----- From: <sjhdcl(at)kingston.net> Subject: RV-List: Engine Overhaul Shop > > > Anybody know of an engine overhaul shop in or near Brampton, Ontario? > Or a source (website) where I can search for one? > > Thank you > Steve Hurlbut > Kingston, Ont > RV-7A > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ross" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Vernier vs. Friction Throttle
Date: Jun 04, 2002
Thank you all very much for your replies. Another question related to this. What about disabling the push button? Whould this create a friction lock with vernier control? Ross Mickey ________________________________________________________________________________
From: C462c(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 05, 2002
Subject: wood prop for 0-360& RV-8???
Does anyone have any experience with wood props used with the 0-360 on a RV-8? I've heard of a supplier in Maryland that makes a wood prop for this application. Thanks for any feedback. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "George McNutt" <gmcnutt(at)intergate.ca>
Subject: 10 Hr Report & Lean Carb (long)
Date: Jun 05, 2002
Here is my 10 hour report for my RV-6A "Underdog", I am submitting it in the hope that some of the information will assist others. Underdog has a 160 HP 0-320 and Sensenich fixed pitch metal prop. Keep building, that first flight will eventually come, it was over six years for me and it is was great. Things went relatively well with just a few snags. After years of building, you are pumped up and ready to just jump in and fly off all that test time so you can hit the fly-in circuit next month. However for many builders, myself included, there follows a period of frustration where you want to go flying but you have to debug the aircraft and sometimes this involves grounding it for several days at a time. On the first flight the right wing was heavy, no problem. Power seemed low, put that down to a tight new engine. Stalls were good and my stall warning worked perfect, big smile. But whats this, 200 RPM in-flight drop and rough running on the Lightspeed electronic ignition. Grounded, lots of testing and phone calls and days later Lightspeed tell me to check the gap between the rotating magnet and the pickup sensor in the Sensor Module. Way out of limits direct from the factory, thanks Lightspeed. Six days later test flying resumes. Second flight - less adrenalin and more recognition of little snags, right wing heavy almost corrected. Fuel pressure fluctuates and occasionally drops to zero, I note that this is associated with turbulence & changing "G" loads. These fuel pressure fluctuations slowly ceased over the next several flights and I attribute them to trapped air in the sensor and lines. Notice new snags, Intercom squelch requires adjustment, Comm radio mike picking up too much background noise, Nav radio audio low, Cylinder head temperatures high. On the positive side Oil temp sits at 170 with the front baffle mounted cooler. Performance good and landings are squeakers. Noted three small oil leaks - at oil temp sender adapter, Vans VA-147. Apparently some of these were sent out with the tapered pipe thread tapped too deep. Vans VA-168 Transducer Manifold on one of the blanking plugs, suspect same problem. Also a little oil leaking out at #4 cyl lower sparkplug. Third Flight - primarily to continue engine break-in. Climb to 10,000 OAT 33F, CAT 28F, Full Throttle 2425 RPM, IAS 155MPH, CHT 363, Oil Temp 167, Oil Pressure 85. Wings stay level, now notice aircraft has slight left yaw. Fourth Flight - Objectives, check ILS, check tachometer. Vans tachometer checked against Prop Check tachometer, some readings higher, some lower but all generally good, on average Vans tach reads within 30 RPM. Nav radio volume is very low, localizer performance only fair, glideslope poor and flagged until 2 mile final, suspect antennae. Fifth flight - Comm radio picking up the loud cockpit noise, will experiment with headsets. Nav audio is now adequate, but still a little weak. (changed output pin connecter) VOR OK but glideslope weak, flag until 2 mile final, suspect the nav antenna splitter. New snag, - rain comes in under aft end of canopy in flight. Lessons learned - an antennae splitter (for Narco Nav 122D) that says Nav-Nav on output side does not work as well as one that says Nav-G/S also a dipole antennae with a home made coaxial balun (per AC43-13) does not work as well as a new antenae with integral ferrite balun, - problem solved. Sixth flight - Check fuel consumption - ran on left tank for one hour then changed to right tank. T/O climb to 7000 cruise at 2200 RPM, fuel burn was 28.7 ltr, 7.6 USG/Hr. Suspect carb runs lean as there is no noticeable increase in RPM when leaning. Lessons learned - removed the MA4-SPA carb P/N 10-3678-32 and took it to local engine shop to correct lean running. Was informed this was a carb for a 140 HP engine, even though this was the origional carb for the 150 HP 0-320 E2C. During overhaul I upgraded the engine to 160 HP 0-320 D2A configuration. The local engine shop said I would get another 100 RPM with correct carb. Called Bart Lalond and he had a MA4-SPA P/N 10-5217 carb here the next day, it is off a 160 HP Robinson helicopter. There is a visual difference if you look in the bottom throat of the carb. The 160 HP carb has a air vent hole that opens vertically out the bottom of the carb at the side of the throat, and the 140 HP carb has the air vent hole opening horizontally into the throat about 1/2 inch up from the bottom. Seventh Flight - Engine has more power with new carb, will turn 2600 RPM plus at 3000 with IAS 190. Will turn 2550+ RPM at 7000 however CHT temperatures still high, CHT got to 430F on initial climb out. Checked different headsets. Operated one hour on right tank at 7000 & 2375 RPM, G/S averaged 150Kt in triangular pattern, fuel used 32.9 Lt, 8.7 US Gal Hr. Still no RPM rise when leaning at altitude. Aircraft operated at VNE this flight, controls stiffen up but no adverse characteristics. Lessons learned - I have a lot of air noise in the cockpit and my Peltor headset michrophone picks it up. Radio checks with a station 75 NM away gets a response of strength 5 readability 2. Radio is an early Apollo SL-60 GPS/COMM which does not have a mike gain adjustment (new SL-60 has). On this flight I tried Lightspeed 25XL and David Clark H10-13.4 headsets. The David Clark michrophone was noticibly better than both Lightspeed and Peltor, however still not good enough. Apparently David Clark 10-30 headsets have a dynamic mike with a gain adjustment, I will try this model next. Eighth Flight - Continue engine break in, CHT in climb 420 Cruise power readouts - Alt 4500, RPM 2400, IAS 172, OAT 62, CHT 386, Oil 167 Altitude 6000 2600 RPM = 181 IAS. CHT 392 Pulled the new carb off and took it to the local engine shop and tell them to make it run richer. Nineth Flight - Carb mixture still lean, no increase in RPM at 7500 ft when engine leaned, then I notice something unusual, the CHT will drop 15 - 20 degrees as the engine is leaned. Check Alternate Static operation, airspeed + - 5 MPH altimeter +- 50 ft with various vents & cabin heat combinations. Lessons learned - I had assumed that the carb was lean because the Cylinder temps were high, and I was not getting any rise in RPM when I leaned. When I finally noticed that the Cylinder Head Temp started to decreased with leaning I realized just how lean my engine has been running, I have not been getting proper fuel cooling or getting full power. Lycoming operators manual graphs show that a properly jetted engine should have up to a 80 deg. F rise in cylinder head temperature before the temperature peaks and starts to decrease. The CHT temperature closly follows the EGT temperature (no EGT installed in my RV-6A but I have a good CHT). Pulled the carb off again today and took it to engine shop, told them to drill the jet to a #38 drill size, present size is #42. More testing tomorrow. George McNutt Langley, B.C. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com>
Subject: Aeroshell 100 W oil temps
Date: Jun 05, 2002
The information that came with my rebuilt engine advised using straight mineral oil until oil consumption stabilized, then go with more ordinary oil. I used straight mineral oil, then 100 W for a short while until the weather turned too cold, then switched to 15-50 for the winter, then back to 100 W this weekend as stated in my original post. I thought it was interesting that oil temps were lower when using the single weight, heavy oil and h ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 05, 2002
From: Ken Balch <kbalch1(at)attbi.com>
Subject: Re: RPM issue up-date
Hi Eustace, When exercising the prop at runup power, I generally only let it drop 300 - 400 RPM before pushing the prop control back to low pitch. Each time I've done this, the RPM dropped as expected and returned to 1700 quickly once the control was moved forward. I haven't yet held the prop control fully aft and allowed the RPM to drop more than 300 - 400. Regards, Ken Eustace Bowhay wrote: > > Hi Ken: > > If you exercise the prop at 1700 RPM with the engine warmed up a bit > how much of a drop do you get with the prop control pulled to full > course. > > Eustace Bowhay - Blind Bay, BC. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 05, 2002
From: Ken Balch <kbalch1(at)attbi.com>
Subject: Re: RPM issue update
I double checked both the mag timing and the Lightspeed timing. Both seemed proper to me, though I'm certainly not an expert in this area. I can't imagine that I've got them so badly off as to account for as large an RPM discrepancy as I'm experiencing. Ken Bob Lueder wrote: > > check your timing? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Glenn Gordon" <dirtyrottenscoundrels(at)attbi.com>
Subject: wood prop for 0-360& RV-8???
Date: Jun 05, 2002
I run a wood 3-blade on an O-360-A1A on my RV-6. I also have a harmonic dampener on the starter ring. It makes for a VERY smooth running engine! The prop is made by Clark Lydick at Performance Propellers. He makes superbly crafted propellers. His products are "Experimental", but don't let that deter you. He knows his stuff. PERFORMANCE PROPS (CLARK LYDICK) 520-394-XXXX PROPS -Glenn Gordon N442E Phase I testing complete! RV-6 picture at.... http://vondane.com/rv8a/otherpix/glenngordon.jpg > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of C462c(at)aol.com > Sent: Wednesday, June 05, 2002 12:46 AM > To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV-List: wood prop for 0-360& RV-8??? > > > Does anyone have any experience with wood props used with the 0-360 on a > RV-8? > I've heard of a supplier in Maryland that makes a wood prop for this > application. Thanks for any feedback. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Aeroshell 100 W oil temps
Date: Jun 05, 2002
----Original Message Follows---- From: Garry LeGare <versadek(at)earthlink.net> Subject: Re: RV-List: Aeroshell 100 W oil temps Date: Tue, 04 Jun 2002 20:57:56 -0700 Randy, the Phillips multi-weight is fine I used it when I overhauled "Caspers" engine and oil consumption stabilized after about 10 Hrs. Garry "Casper" Randy Compton wrote: > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Randy Lervold" <randy@rv-8.com> > To: > Subject: Re: RV-List: Aeroshell 100 W oil temps > > >BTW, according to Bart Lalonde you really > > shouldn't be using any semi-synthetic oil, such as either Aeroshell 15W-50 > > or Exxon Elite, until you get at least 100 hours on your engine. The > reason > > is that it slows down the break-in process because it lubricates too well. > > Food for thought. > > > > Randy Lervold > > RV-8, 163 hrs > > Hmmm....now I'm worried. I just got my engine back in service after a major > overhaul, and the overhaul shop put 20W-50 Phillips mineral oil in it. I I use Phillips 20W-50 M (M is for Mineral) as the preferred oil of break-in. I like to change the oil and filter after a few hours and refill again with Phillips 20W-50 M. I also will follow Lycoming recommendations and keep multi-Weight Mineral oil in the engine till oil consumption stabilize or 25 hours which ever takes longer. On STEEL cylinders (not chrome), oil consumption has stabilized after a few hours. I run 15-50 AeroShell all the time other than break-in. With the constant speed prop, the airplane is ready for run-up and flying when oil temp hits 70 F. When using 100W, I need to wait till 100 F to get the prop to cycle smooth and quickly. Gary A. Sobek "My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell, 1,070.2+ Flying Hours So. CA, USA http://SoCAL_WVAF.tripod.com MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org>
Subject: Re: Vernier vs. Friction Throttle
Date: Jun 05, 2002
Disabling the push button would make it vernier only. Locking it in would make it friction only, I believe. We had a new Navion owner a few years back that started with the throttle full in and in his panic couldn't pull the vernier back. Went full bore into a hanger with the brakes locked during a flyin. Lots of damage just because he didn't push the button and pull. Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh Editor, EAA Safety Programs cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org Always looking for articles for the Experimenter ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ross" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com> Subject: Re: RV-List: Vernier vs. Friction Throttle Thank you all very much for your replies. Another question related to this. What about disabling the push button? Whould this create a friction lock with vernier control? Ross Mickey ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ollie Washburn" <skybolt-aviator(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: Vernier vs. Friction Throttle
Date: Jun 05, 2002
OK,i've had our rv flying for 3 yrs.and it has a vernier throttle which i would change to push-pull throttle right now if i could stopped flying long enough to do it. Ollie 6A 750hrs ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com>
Subject: Re: wood prop for 0-360& RV-8???
Date: Jun 05, 2002
I put a wood prop on my O-360. It was on a 6A, but nevertheless this was the engine/prop combination. I think just about any prop builder could build you one. It was a nice comination. Power and performance, but less cost. Paul Besing RV-6A Sold (Waiting on the RV-10) http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software http://www.kitlog.com ----- Original Message ----- From: <C462c(at)aol.com> Subject: RV-List: wood prop for 0-360& RV-8??? > > Does anyone have any experience with wood props used with the 0-360 on a > RV-8? > I've heard of a supplier in Maryland that makes a wood prop for this > application. Thanks for any feedback. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 05, 2002
From: "Dr. Arthur Glaser" <airplane(at)megsinet.net>
Subject: Re: Aeroshell 100 W oil temps
Phillips xc is not semi synthetic. It is a multi v ad oil made from petroleum. KBoatri144(at)aol.com wrote: > > In a message dated 6/4/02 10:50:40 PM Eastern Daylight Time, > rdcompton(at)earthlink.net writes: > > << Hmmm....now I'm worried. I just got my engine back in service after a > major > overhaul, and the overhaul shop put 20W-50 Phillips mineral oil in it. I > must admit I was expecting single weight Aeroshell mineral oil, especially > seeing as how summer temps have fully arrived here in the southeast. > > Does the admonition not to use a multi-grade oil prior to 100 hours not > apply to mineral oil? I've just started the break-in process (I've only > flown one flight post-overhaul) and now I'm wondering if I should drain the > oil and put in single-weight Aeroshell. > > Randy Compton > RV-3 148CW > Gulf Breeze, FL >> > > The Sky Ranch Engineering Manual specifically mentions using a mineral oil > (not a semi-synthetic) on Page 155. It also indicates that Phillips multi > viscosity type "M" is one of the recommended break-in oils. Phillips type > "M" is (apparently) a mineral oil... Phillips X/C is semi-synthetic, and > would be a bad choice for break-in. > > Kyle Boatright > 0-320/Aymar Demuth RV-6 Slider > Kennesaw, GA > http://www.angelfire.com/my/rv6 > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 05, 2002
From: rob ray <smokyray(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RV4-List: aymar-demuth props
Dan; I have an Ed Sterba 68X72 that works very well for 150 HP, you are welcome to try it... Rob Ray smokyray(at)yahoo.com --- DFCPAC(at)aol.com wrote: > --> RV4-List message posted by: DFCPAC(at)aol.com > > does any one have a aymar-demuth propeller for a > 0-320 150h.p. lyc. that they > would like to sell? i'm very interested in trying > one on my rv-4. > > thank you > dan carley > > > > Contributions of > any other form > > latest messages. > other List members. > > http://www.matronics.com/subscription > http://www.matronics.com/photoshare > http://www.matronics.com/search > http://www.matronics.com/archives > http://www.matronics.com/emaillists > > > > > http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 05, 2002
From: philip condon <pcondon(at)mitre.org>
Subject: Vernier vs. Friction Throttle
Had the vernier on both my Bonanza & Mooney and loved the way I could set my throttle and prop by fine tuning with just a slight twist. Lets face it, I never had to jam the throttle in like some folks said...two quick twists and I had full throttle. My landings were allways spot on because I could micro-adjust my settings with the vernier. BTW all Bonanzas & Mooneys have em....possibly others. My RV has em. Go your own way but here is one vote for the vernier......seeya ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 05, 2002
From: philip condon <pcondon(at)mitre.org>
Subject: Re: Vernier Dosen't require pressing the button....
My vernier can be operated without pressing the button. I can JAM the throttle forward by jamming the button in if I wanted to. I can also just as easy give two quick turns and have full throttle...... This is a " blonde or brunette " preference thing...my blonde dosen't require the button pressed before operation... ..........." like vernier mixture and propeller because you almost always need to make small smooth adjustments of mixture and rpm. For a throttle control, sometimes you make small adjustments and sometimes you need to make very large adjustments without notice, like a go around or a stall. Even for a manuveur like a loop where you know you are going to have to make the adjustment, the additional step of pressing in the button is irritating, delaying, and more difficult, for me. Larry Pardue.........." ________________________________________________________________________________
From: SportAV8R(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 05, 2002
Subject: Re: Aeroshell 100 W oil temps
I might be missing something important here. I run AeroShell15W-50 year-round in my O-320 with fixed-pitch prop. My habit has been always to wait for oil to reach 100 degrees F before feeding in throttle for takeoff. Obviously, if I used a 70 degree bottom for oil temp green arc, I could spend a LOT less time on the ramp waiting for oil temp to come up before T/O. Have I been babying the engine too much? Somewhere, I got the impression that 100 degrees was the magic number for full power. Please advise. -Bill B > I run 15-50 AeroShell all the time other than break-in. With the constant > speed prop, the airplane is ready for run-up and flying when oil temp hits > 70 F. When using 100W, I need to wait till 100 F to get the prop to cycle > smooth and quickly. > > Gary A. Sobek > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 05, 2002
From: Andy <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com>
Subject: Re: wood prop for 0-360& RV-8???
> Does anyone have any experience with wood props used with the 0-360 on a > RV-8? > I've heard of a supplier in Maryland that makes a wood prop for this > application. Thanks for any feedback. > I've got a wood prop from Props Inc. in Oregon on my 0-360 RV-6A. I'm very happy with it, for performance, looks and durability. I out-climb my hangarmate's RV-4 and match his speed. (don't tell him that, he's pretty tired of hearing about it ;-) On the other hand, the guy in the hangar next to me has a Hartzell on his 0-360 and he flys circles around everyone. Andy ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier(at)usi.edu>
Subject: Airparts bushings rivets drill bits super value IMHO
Date: Jun 05, 2002
<<<<<<<<>>>>>>>>> Check with AirParts, the yellow and white tent at Osh or SnF. It's the place that has the old lady standing inside the roll of aluminum in their ads. Anyway, for $5 or so, they have bags of "floor sweepings". The sweepings are often divided into bags of drill bits, rivets, hardware, etc. IMHO, EVERY airplane builder should buy $50 worth of this miscellaneous stuff. It's a real bacon saver. I have easily gleaned $500 worth of time and material savings out of my sweepings. Oh yeah, bushings... they've got them in those bags by the hundreds. I'm kind of anal, so I sorted everything into separate containers. Honestly, I dig into the bushing container so often that I'm in serious danger of wearing out the lid. True. I've got big bushings, little ones, plastic, nylon, brass, steel, you name it... it's in there. If Airparts no longer sells these things, several others vendors have this stuff at Osh. Vince Frazier Stinson 108, NC97535 flying F-1H Rocket "Six Shooter", N540VF reserved http://www.usi.edu/science/chemistry/vfrazier/page1.html ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 05, 2002
From: Andy <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com>
Subject: ELT antenna orientation
When considering where to mount my ELT antenna, I ended up choosing the belly of the plane looking down rather than on top or inside the cabin looking up. The thought was that the time I'd need the ELT the most, is if the plane is flipped over and lying on its top with me trapped inside. If thr plane is right side up, I could always climb out and set up the ELT with the small portable antenna that came with it. I also would be much less likely to be injured if the plane is right-side-up. However over the years, I've never seen another RV with the ELT antenna on the belly and I've wondered if my "wisdom" is really that relevant. Plus, that belly antenna is ugly and draggy and I'd like to make it go away. I think a couple people recently mentioned putting the ELT antenna in the fiberglass wingtip, or perhaps even the entire ELT unit. I like that idea. Besides hiding it, it seems you'd have exposure of the antenna no matter how your downed plane is situated. What I'm wondering, for all you radio gurus, is if we need to be concerned with the directionality or orientation of an ELT antenna. If not, the easiest way to do this would be a strip of copper foil (like my comm antenna) glued horizontally on the bottom of the tip. Is this going to work? Any idea on the proper length? Or, do I need a special kind of antenna? Or, does it need to be situated vertically? Or???? Andy ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Neil McLeod" <bedrock(at)theriver.com>
Subject: Re: wood prop for 0-360& RV-8???
Date: Jun 05, 2002
Great looking plane. Are those vinyl stripes? What kind of numbers do you see with that prop? Neil QB-7 Fuselage ----- Original Message ----- From: "Glenn Gordon" <dirtyrottenscoundrels(at)attbi.com> Subject: RE: RV-List: wood prop for 0-360& RV-8??? > > I run a wood 3-blade on an O-360-A1A on my RV-6. I also have a harmonic > dampener on the starter ring. It makes for a VERY smooth running engine! > > The prop is made by Clark Lydick at Performance Propellers. He makes > superbly crafted propellers. His products are "Experimental", but don't let > that deter you. He knows his stuff. > > PERFORMANCE PROPS (CLARK LYDICK) 520-394-XXXX PROPS > > -Glenn Gordon > N442E > Phase I testing complete! > RV-6 picture at.... http://vondane.com/rv8a/otherpix/glenngordon.jpg > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com > > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of C462c(at)aol.com > > Sent: Wednesday, June 05, 2002 12:46 AM > > To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com > > Subject: RV-List: wood prop for 0-360& RV-8??? > > > > > > > > Does anyone have any experience with wood props used with the 0-360 on a > > RV-8? > > I've heard of a supplier in Maryland that makes a wood prop for this > > application. Thanks for any feedback. > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Konrad Werner" <Connywerner(at)wans.net>
Subject: Re: Aeroshell 100 W oil temps
Date: Jun 05, 2002
Dear Bill, If your Oil Temp. has reached only 70 F or 100 F, what is your Cyl. Head Temp at that time? The reason I ask is the following scenario: Here in the hot South-West, the summertime can reach close to (and sometimes in excess of) 100F. So does that mean I can start the engine, have already an immediate 100F (ambient) Oil-Temp, then give it a quick runup, push Full Throttle and GO? (Here some food for thought: As per Vans Oil-Temp.Gauge Markings: YELLOW 50-140F; GREEN = 140-245F ???) Sincerely, Konrad ABQ-NM > I might be missing something important here. I run AeroShell15W-50 > year-round in my O-320 with fixed-pitch prop. My habit has been always to > wait for oil to reach 100 degrees F before feeding in throttle for takeoff. > Obviously, if I used a 70 degree bottom for oil temp green arc, I could spend > a LOT less time on the ramp waiting for oil temp to come up before T/O. Have > I been babying the engine too much? Somewhere, I got the impression that 100 > degrees was the magic number for full power. > > Please advise. > > -Bill B > > > > I run 15-50 AeroShell all the time other than break-in. With the constant > > speed prop, the airplane is ready for run-up and flying when oil temp hits > > 70 F. When using 100W, I need to wait till 100 F to get the prop to cycle > > smooth and quickly. > > > > Gary A. Sobek ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 05, 2002
From: Dan DeNeal <rv6apilot(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: OUCH!!! Turn & Bank Gyro got dropped #$%#$#%
Sliding out of my hands, down my legg, and landing on the rubber mat I have on the floor. I picked it up and the little airplane inside is in a left bank while resting flat on the workbench. I took the case off the back to see if it had jumped out of the cage and it had not. For some reason the gyro doesn't want to rest back in the middle. I hooked power back up to it and nothing changed. Anybody ever work on an electric T&B? Dan DeNeal 1 step forward 2 steps back!!! http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Vincent Welch" <welchvincent(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Wiring Harness
Date: Jun 05, 2002
Gentlemen, I am looking for the proper method of interconnecting various pieces of avionics equipment. For instance, Comm 1, Comm 2, and the intercom all have individual DB25 connectors. If I make up the wiring harness for each device and plug the connector into the appropriate device, what is the proper method of interconnection? I mean do I solder or crimp a wire directely from the appropriate pin of the comm output to the appropriate pin of the comm input on the intercom or do I run a wire from each and somehow splice them together? Do I take them both to a terminal strip and make the connection there? What is the best method of making these interconnections? Thanks, Vince Welch RV-8A wiring Join the worlds largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. http://www.hotmail.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Konrad Werner" <Connywerner(at)wans.net>
Subject: Re: ELT antenna orientation
Date: Jun 05, 2002
Dear electronically inclined Listers! I know this has been probably beat to death already, but I'm rather (let's say) challenged, when it comes to radiowaves & electronics. Here my question: Is it possible to put in more than one ELT antenna with some kind of signal-splitter? Like one antenna in each wingtip, and maybe even a third one in the tailcone, just to cover thy Bacon(s) in ANY crash scenario? (Of course hoping to never have to use the ELT anyway!) Any input would be appreciated. Konrad > > When considering where to mount my ELT antenna, I ended up choosing the belly > of the plane looking down rather than on top or inside the cabin looking up. > The thought was that the time I'd need the ELT the most, is if the plane is > flipped over and lying on its top with me trapped inside. If thr plane is > right side up, I could always climb out and set up the ELT with the small > portable antenna that came with it. I also would be much less likely to be > injured if the plane is right-side-up. > > However over the years, I've never seen another RV with the ELT antenna on the > belly and I've wondered if my "wisdom" is really that relevant. Plus, that > belly antenna is ugly and draggy and I'd like to make it go away. > > I think a couple people recently mentioned putting the ELT antenna in the > fiberglass wingtip, or perhaps even the entire ELT unit. I like that idea. > Besides hiding it, it seems you'd have exposure of the antenna no matter how > your downed plane is situated. > > What I'm wondering, for all you radio gurus, is if we need to be concerned with > the directionality or orientation of an ELT antenna. If not, the easiest way > to do this would be a strip of copper foil (like my comm antenna) glued > horizontally on the bottom of the tip. Is this going to work? Any idea on the > proper length? Or, do I need a special kind of antenna? Or, does it need to > be situated vertically? Or???? > > Andy > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 05, 2002
From: Scott Bilinski <bilinski(at)qcpi.com>
Subject: First Flight
The age old debate, should you fly the first flight? The way I look at it is, there are just under 3000 RV's flying they are a proven solid design. If there had been only 15 built I would not want to fly the first flight, due to not enough of a track record. I also think there is a much bigger chance of a engine problem rather than a airplane problem. Any factory plane with a rebuilt engine has the same chance of having a engine problem in my opinion. So get the transition training and go for the first flight? Whats your opinion? Scott Bilinski Eng dept 8220 Phone (858) 657-2536 Pager (858) 502-5190 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jim Norman" <jnorman(at)intermapsystems.com>
Subject: ELT antenna orientation
Date: Jun 05, 2002
Konrad, I'm not sure I know what kind of plane you are building? Can you share that with the group? jim Tampa -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Konrad Werner Subject: Re: RV-List: ELT antenna orientation Dear electronically inclined Listers! I know this has been probably beat to death already, but I'm rather (let's say) challenged, when it comes to radiowaves & electronics. Here my question: Is it possible to put in more than one ELT antenna with some kind of signal-splitter? Like one antenna in each wingtip, and maybe even a third one in the tailcone, just to cover thy Bacon(s) in ANY crash scenario? (Of course hoping to never have to use the ELT anyway!) Any input would be appreciated. Konrad > > When considering where to mount my ELT antenna, I ended up choosing the belly > of the plane looking down rather than on top or inside the cabin looking up. > The thought was that the time I'd need the ELT the most, is if the plane is > flipped over and lying on its top with me trapped inside. If thr plane is > right side up, I could always climb out and set up the ELT with the small > portable antenna that came with it. I also would be much less likely to be > injured if the plane is right-side-up. > > However over the years, I've never seen another RV with the ELT antenna on the > belly and I've wondered if my "wisdom" is really that relevant. Plus, that > belly antenna is ugly and draggy and I'd like to make it go away. > > I think a couple people recently mentioned putting the ELT antenna in the > fiberglass wingtip, or perhaps even the entire ELT unit. I like that idea. > Besides hiding it, it seems you'd have exposure of the antenna no matter how > your downed plane is situated. > > What I'm wondering, for all you radio gurus, is if we need to be concerned with > the directionality or orientation of an ELT antenna. If not, the easiest way > to do this would be a strip of copper foil (like my comm antenna) glued > horizontally on the bottom of the tip. Is this going to work? Any idea on the > proper length? Or, do I need a special kind of antenna? Or, does it need to > be situated vertically? Or???? > > Andy > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 05, 2002
From: "Boyd C. Braem" <bcbraem(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Aeroshell 100 W oil temps
Lycoming recommends a minimum oil temp of 140 F and a minimum CHT of 150 F for "continous engine operation". Konrad Werner wrote: > > Dear Bill, > > If your Oil Temp. has reached only 70 F or 100 F, what is your Cyl. Head > Temp at that time? > The reason I ask is the following scenario: Here in the hot South-West, the > summertime can reach close to (and sometimes in excess of) 100F. > So does that mean I can start the engine, have already an immediate 100F (> ambient) Oil-Temp, then give it a quick runup, push Full Throttle and GO? > (Here some food for thought: As per Vans Oil-Temp.Gauge Markings: YELLOW > 50-140F; GREEN = 140-245F ???) > > Sincerely, > Konrad > ABQ-NM > > > I might be missing something important here. I run AeroShell15W-50 > > year-round in my O-320 with fixed-pitch prop. My habit has been always to > > wait for oil to reach 100 degrees F before feeding in throttle for > takeoff. > > Obviously, if I used a 70 degree bottom for oil temp green arc, I could > spend > > a LOT less time on the ramp waiting for oil temp to come up before T/O. > Have > > I been babying the engine too much? Somewhere, I got the impression that > 100 > > degrees was the magic number for full power. > > > > Please advise. > > > > -Bill B > > > > > > > I run 15-50 AeroShell all the time other than break-in. With the > constant > > > speed prop, the airplane is ready for run-up and flying when oil temp > hits > > > 70 F. When using 100W, I need to wait till 100 F to get the prop to > cycle > > > smooth and quickly. > > > > > > Gary A. Sobek > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com>
Subject: Re: Wiring Harness
Date: Jun 05, 2002
If you do it right, you can run 2 wires into one pot on a D-Sub connector. That's the way most pro avionic shops do it. The intercom is a classic example of this. Use 24 AWG wire, do not tin the ends. Twist them together really tight, stick them in the pot on the D-Sub connector, put some shrink tube over the wire and move out of the way, then put the solder iron on one side of the pot. Touch the solder inside and you have a good joing. Repeat the process for all 25 or so pots! Then shrink tube all at one time, and use a heat gun. You might want to buy new D-Sub connectors with larger pots to them if yours are too small. Also, don't get the ones with the crimp on pins. Only go solder. Radio Shack is not the ideal place to get a good quality D-Sub connector. Also, avoid a terminal strip when dealing with radios. You are asking for noise. The only thing I would really use a terminal strip for would be a ground block. Paul Besing RV-6A Sold (Waiting on the RV-10) http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software http://www.kitlog.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "Vincent Welch" <welchvincent(at)hotmail.com> Subject: RV-List: Wiring Harness > > Gentlemen, > > I am looking for the proper method of interconnecting various pieces of > avionics equipment. For instance, Comm 1, Comm 2, and the intercom all have > individual DB25 connectors. If I make up the wiring harness for each device > and plug the connector into the appropriate device, what is the proper > method of interconnection? I mean do I solder or crimp a wire directely > from the appropriate pin of the comm output to the appropriate pin of the > comm input on the intercom or do I run a wire from each and somehow splice > them together? Do I take them both to a terminal strip and make the > connection there? What is the best method of making these interconnections? > > Thanks, > > Vince Welch > RV-8A wiring > > Join the worlds largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. > http://www.hotmail.com > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ed Bundy" <ebundy(at)velocitus.net>
Subject: Re: Aeroshell 100 W oil temps
Date: Jun 05, 2002
Bill, I don't think oil temp is a good measuring stick. If it's 20 degrees OAT, then by the time you get to 100 degrees oil temp the cylinders are going to be very hot. Likewise if it's 100+ degrees OAT you won't warm it up enough. Personally, I've always used 200 degrees CHT on the coldest cylinder. This seems to give a good, but not excessive warm-up no matter what the OAT. According to Lycoming, "The engine is ready for takeoff when the throttle can be opened without the engine faltering." This occurs well below 200 CHT. Ed Bundy - RV6A N427EM 500+ hours 160hp 0320 w/Sensenich 70x78 Eagle, ID ebundy(at)velocitus.net > I might be missing something important here. I run AeroShell15W-50 > year-round in my O-320 with fixed-pitch prop. My habit has been always to > wait for oil to reach 100 degrees F before feeding in throttle for takeoff. > Obviously, if I used a 70 degree bottom for oil temp green arc, I could spend > a LOT less time on the ramp waiting for oil temp to come up before T/O. Have > I been babying the engine too much? Somewhere, I got the impression that 100 > degrees was the magic number for full power. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: SportAV8R(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 05, 2002
Subject: Re: Aeroshell 100 W oil temps
> Bill, I don't think oil temp is a good measuring stick. If it's 20 degrees > OAT, then by the time you get to 100 degrees oil temp the cylinders are > going to be very hot. Likewise if it's 100+ degrees OAT you won't warm it > up enough. This is turning into (IMO) an interesting thread. Obviously, there are a lot of variables to consider: oil temp, CHT's, how the engine handles throttle opening, engine compartment temps and vapor-lock issues, etc. The goals are safety and engine longevity, with operational convenience (shorter waiting times) thrown in as well. For what it's worth, I can almost always achieve 100 degrees oil temp before the CHT's hit 350, even on very cold days. I never start without an electric preheat below about 45 degrees OAT. I doubt very much that I can make it from the hangar to the end of the turf strip and complete a run-up on a warm day (where oil temp might already be close to 100*F) without getting the cylinders to 200 degrees at least, so that's not a worry for me, at home base, anyway. So here's what I'm hearing: Minimum T/O oil temp (debatable but probably) = 50*-70*F. Minimum T/O CHT = 200*F on coldest cylinder. Ultimate test: will she take throttle without a stumble? If this is true, I've been wasting lots of precious moments on the ground, lead-fouling my plugs and watching digital oil temps! Thanks, all. -Bill B ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Konrad Werner" <Connywerner(at)wans.net>
Subject: Re: ELT antenna orientation
Date: Jun 05, 2002
Dear Jim, I have an RV-6A (SB instead of QB) Project in my Shop. As to the relevancy of what Plane I have, and how it affects answers to my question: I will use the older style Wing Tips and the std. Empennage Fairing! Do you have an answer to the question in my original post? Have a sunny day in FL! KLW > Konrad, > I'm not sure I know what kind of plane you are building? Can you share that > with the group? > jim > Tampa > > > Dear electronically inclined Listers! > I know this has been probably beat to death already, but I'm rather (let's > say) challenged, when it comes to radiowaves & electronics. > Here my question: > Is it possible to put in more than one ELT antenna with some kind of > signal-splitter? > Like one antenna in each wingtip, and maybe even a third one in the > tailcone, just to cover thy Bacon(s) in ANY crash scenario? > (Of course hoping to never have to use the ELT anyway!) > Any input would be appreciated. > Konrad ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 05, 2002
From: Bill VonDane<n8wv(at)earthlink.net>
rv8list , rv-list , sonex builders
Subject: I don't get it.....FLUFF
******************************************************************************** ** Report created 06/05/2002 Record 25 ** ******************************************************************************** IDENTIFICATION Regis#: 753KD Make/Model: EXP Description: 2001 EXP CA7 SL Date: 06/01/2002 Time: Event Type: Accident Highest Injury: None Mid Air: N Missing: N Damage: Unknown LOCATION City: WILLIAMSTOWN State: NJ Country: US DESCRIPTION AIRCRAFT DEPARTED RWY 27, TAILGEAR FELL OFF CAUSING WINGS TO FALL OFF, ACFT CRASHED ON RWY, WILLIAMSTOWN, NJ INJURY DATA Total Fatal: 0 # Crew: 0 Fat: 0 Ser: 0 Min: 0 Unk: Y # Pass: 0 Fat: 0 Ser: 0 Min: 0 Unk: Y # Grnd: Fat: 0 Ser: 0 Min: 0 Unk: WEATHER: METAR KPHL 011254Z 27004KT 10SM CLR 24/15 A2976 RMK A02 SLP076 OTHER DATA Activity: Unknown Phase: Take-off Operation: General Aviation Departed: WILLIAMSTOWN, NJ Dep Date: 06/01/2002 Dep. Time: Destination: UNKN Flt Plan: NONE Wx Briefing: Y Last Radio Cont: UNKN Last Clearance: UNKN FAA FSDO: PHILADELPHIA, PA (EA17) Entry date: 06/03/2002 ________________________________________________________________________________ rv8list , rv-list , sonex builders
From: Bill VonDane<n8wv(at)earthlink.net>
List-Unsubscribe:
Date: Jun 05, 2002
Subject: Sonex List: I don't get it.....FLUFF
******************************************************************************** ** Report created 06/05/2002 Record 25 ** ******************************************************************************** IDENTIFICATION Regis#: 753KD Make/Model: EXP Description: 2001 EXP CA7 SL Date: 06/01/2002 Time: Event Type: Accident Highest Injury: None Mid Air: N Missing: N Damage: Unknown LOCATION City: WILLIAMSTOWN State: NJ Country: US DESCRIPTION AIRCRAFT DEPARTED RWY 27, TAILGEAR FELL OFF CAUSING WINGS TO FALL OFF, ACFT CRASHED ON RWY, WILLIAMSTOWN, NJ INJURY DATA Total Fatal: 0 # Crew: 0 Fat: 0 Ser: 0 Min: 0 Unk: Y # Pass: 0 Fat: 0 Ser: 0 Min: 0 Unk: Y # Grnd: Fat: 0 Ser: 0 Min: 0 Unk: WEATHER: METAR KPHL 011254Z 27004KT 10SM CLR 24/15 A2976 RMK A02 SLP076 OTHER DATA Activity: Unknown Phase: Take-off Operation: General Aviation Departed: WILLIAMSTOWN, NJ Dep Date: 06/01/2002 Dep. Time: Destination: UNKN Flt Plan: NONE Wx Briefing: Y Last Radio Cont: UNKN Last Clearance: UNKN FAA FSDO: PHILADELPHIA, PA (EA17) Entry date: 06/03/2002 Send posts to: sonexbuilders(at)yahoogroups.com Sonex, Ltd. Website: http://www.sonex-ltd.com Sonex Links Website: http://sonexlinks.com unsubscribe: sonexbuilders-unsubscribe(at)yahoogroups.com List owner - Bill VonDane: billvondane(at)sonexlinks.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 05, 2002
From: Earl Fortner <efortner(at)vnet.net>
Subject: Re: I don't get it.....FLUFF
His annual must have been overdue! Bill VonDane wrote: > > ******************************************************************************** > ** Report created 06/05/2002 Record 25 ** > ******************************************************************************** > > IDENTIFICATION > Regis#: 753KD Make/Model: EXP Description: 2001 EXP CA7 SL > Date: 06/01/2002 Time: > > Event Type: Accident Highest Injury: None Mid Air: N Missing: N > Damage: Unknown > > LOCATION > City: WILLIAMSTOWN State: NJ Country: US > > DESCRIPTION > AIRCRAFT DEPARTED RWY 27, TAILGEAR FELL OFF CAUSING WINGS TO FALL OFF, ACFT > CRASHED ON RWY, WILLIAMSTOWN, NJ > > INJURY DATA Total Fatal: 0 > # Crew: 0 Fat: 0 Ser: 0 Min: 0 Unk: Y > # Pass: 0 Fat: 0 Ser: 0 Min: 0 Unk: Y > # Grnd: Fat: 0 Ser: 0 Min: 0 Unk: > > WEATHER: METAR KPHL 011254Z 27004KT 10SM CLR 24/15 A2976 RMK A02 SLP076 > > OTHER DATA > Activity: Unknown Phase: Take-off Operation: General Aviation > > Departed: WILLIAMSTOWN, NJ Dep Date: 06/01/2002 Dep. Time: > Destination: UNKN Flt Plan: NONE Wx Briefing: Y > Last Radio Cont: UNKN > Last Clearance: UNKN > > FAA FSDO: PHILADELPHIA, PA (EA17) Entry date: 06/03/2002 > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 05, 2002
Subject: Re: Vernier vs. Friction Throttle
From: Don Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com>
The rod under the button allows you to make a push-pull when you push in. IF you remove the rod you will have a full time vernier. Don Jordan - N6DJ - RV6A Arlington, Tx ******************************* > > Thank you all very much for your replies. Another question related > to this. > What about disabling the push button? Whould this create a friction > lock > with vernier control? > > Ross Mickey > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Cole, Ed" <Ed_Cole(at)maximhq.com>
Subject: Vernier vs. Friction Throttle
Date: Jun 05, 2002
Pull the ball bearing out as well and you have a push pull friction lock. See "20 years of the RVator:" Ed Cole RV6A N2169D Flying RV6A N648RV Finishing > -----Original Message----- > From: Don Jordan [SMTP:dons6a(at)juno.com] > Sent: Wednesday, June 05, 2002 1:12 PM > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV-List: Vernier vs. Friction Throttle > > > The rod under the button allows you to make a push-pull when you push in. > IF you remove the rod you will have a full time vernier. > > Don Jordan - N6DJ - RV6A > Arlington, Tx > ******************************* > > > > > Thank you all very much for your replies. Another question related > > to this. > > What about disabling the push button? Whould this create a friction > > lock > > with vernier control? > > > > Ross Mickey > > > > > > > Maxim Home Page: http://www.maxim-ic.com Products Page: http://www.maxim-ic.com/MaximProducts/products.htm New Products: http://dbserv.maxim-ic.com/new_products.cfm Datasheets: http://dbserv.maxim-ic.com/l_datasheet3.cfm The information contained in this message is confidential and may be legally privileged. The message is intended solely for the addressee(s). If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any use, dissemination, or reproduction is strictly prohibited and may be unlawful. If you are not the intended recipient, please contact the sender by return e-mail and destroy all copies of the original message. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 05, 2002
From: Garry LeGare <versadek(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Aeroshell 100 W oil temps
Bill, keeping your idle at 1100 RPM as much as you can will help keep the plugs cleaner, The only problem is that you end up taxing to fast on most strips. Garry " Casper" SportAV8R(at)aol.com wrote: > This is turning into (IMO) an interesting thread. Obviously, there are a lot > of variables to consider: oil temp, CHT's, how the engine handles throttle > opening, engine compartment temps and vapor-lock issues, etc. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: <enewton57(at)cableone.net>
Subject: I don't get it.....FLUFF
Date: Jun 05, 2002
Bill, This accident was reported in the ANN news this morning. Here is their story: Eric This Tailwheel More-Important Than Most First-hand witness reports came to us, that explained a little more about what happened to this Aero-Comp, than was available in the preliminary FAA report (below). According to a knowledgeable pilot/builder at the scene, the aircraft was about 800 lbs over RTL (return to landing) weight, and some 200 pounds over MTOW (maximum takeoff weight). "There were four big guys -- 250, 275 pounds each, plus full fuel (1360 pounds), and a couple hundred pounds of luggage," he said. The pilot, 71, had some 130 hours in type, including training at the company's builder's center, where he reportedly spent about 25 hours, concentrating on his taildragger endorsement. What seems to have happened, was that one of the men had forgotten his passport, or, rather remembered it -- and the flight came back, to fetch it. The four were on their way to the Caribbean. Anyway, the landing, with the too-heavy airplane, was reportedly something of a "thumper," so bad that the tailwheel spring itself broke. That left the Aero-Comp with nothing but a metal skid at the rear end, not a good thing, on pavement. The landing got squirrelly, and the four guys left the runway at a pretty good clip, and headed through a drain ditch, and off into the woods. The mains broke and came upwards, where they clobbered the lift struts. The plane, we're told, needs new gear (all three corners), lift struts, and a good look at the prop and engine. The four adventurers, all strapped in and in a strong capsule, are all OK. ******************************************************************************** ** Report created 06/05/2002 Record 25 ** ******************************************************************************** IDENTIFICATION Regis#: 753KD Make/Model: EXP Description: 2001 EXP CA7 SL Date: 06/01/2002 Time: Event Type: Accident Highest Injury: None Mid Air: N Missing: N Damage: Unknown LOCATION City: WILLIAMSTOWN State: NJ Country: US DESCRIPTION AIRCRAFT DEPARTED RWY 27, TAILGEAR FELL OFF CAUSING WINGS TO FALL OFF, ACFT CRASHED ON RWY, WILLIAMSTOWN, NJ INJURY DATA Total Fatal: 0 # Crew: 0 Fat: 0 Ser: 0 Min: 0 Unk: Y # Pass: 0 Fat: 0 Ser: 0 Min: 0 Unk: Y # Grnd: Fat: 0 Ser: 0 Min: 0 Unk: WEATHER: METAR KPHL 011254Z 27004KT 10SM CLR 24/15 A2976 RMK A02 SLP076 OTHER DATA Activity: Unknown Phase: Take-off Operation: General Aviation Departed: WILLIAMSTOWN, NJ Dep Date: 06/01/2002 Dep. Time: Destination: UNKN Flt Plan: NONE Wx Briefing: Y Last Radio Cont: UNKN Last Clearance: UNKN FAA FSDO: PHILADELPHIA, PA (EA17) Entry date: 06/03/2002 Eric Newton - Long Beach, MS RV-6A - N57ME (fiberglass stuff) www.ericsrv6a.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bartrim, Todd" <sbartrim(at)mail.canfor.ca>
Subject: Painting top of dashboard
Date: Jun 05, 2002
Hey Guys I'm ready to permanently mount my front windscreen (slider) and am trying to decide if I should paint the dashboard now or cover it later. Painting would be lighter, but must be decided on now. I'm undecided if I should paint it the same ice blue as the interior or if I should use the darker blue that I haven't decided on yet but plan for the exterior. It seems that this would be most visible from outside and should match the exterior paint. The other option is just throw a piece of carpet or other fabric on it later. I've looked through a bunch of "RV of the week" photos, but can't tell what most have done. So what's the most common solution? What have others done? why? and would you do it that way again? S. Todd Bartrim 13B rotary powered RV-9endurance (finish kit) C-FSTB (reserved) http://www3.telus.net/haywire/RV-9/C-FSTB.htm Painting top of dashboard Hey Guys I'm ready to permanently mount my front windscreen (slider) and am trying to decide if I should paint the dashboard now or cover it later. Painting would be lighter, but must be decided on now. I'm undecided if I should paint it the same ice blue as the interior or if I should use the darker blue that I haven't decided on yet but plan for the exterior. It seems that this would be most visible from outside and should match the exterior paint. The other option is just throw a piece of carpet or other fabric on it later. I've looked through a bunch of RV of the week photos, but can't tell what most have done. So what's the most common solution? What have others done? why? and would you do it that way again? S. Todd Bartrim 13B rotary powered RV-9endurance (finish kit) C-FSTB (reserved) http://www3.telus.net/haywire/RV-9/C-FSTB.htm ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org>
Subject: Re: I don't get it.....FLUFF
Date: Jun 05, 2002
See what happens when you lose a little Tail..... wheeeeeeeeeeeeel! ----- Original Message ----- From: "Earl Fortner" <efortner(at)vnet.net> Subject: Re: RV-List: I don't get it.....FLUFF His annual must have been overdue! Bill VonDane wrote: > > **************************************************************************** **** > ** Report created 06/05/2002 Record 25 ** > **************************************************************************** **** > > IDENTIFICATION > Regis#: 753KD Make/Model: EXP Description: 2001 EXP CA7 SL > Date: 06/01/2002 Time: > > Event Type: Accident Highest Injury: None Mid Air: N Missing: N > Damage: Unknown > > LOCATION > City: WILLIAMSTOWN State: NJ Country: US > > DESCRIPTION > AIRCRAFT DEPARTED RWY 27, TAILGEAR FELL OFF CAUSING WINGS TO FALL OFF, ACFT > CRASHED ON RWY, WILLIAMSTOWN, NJ > > INJURY DATA Total Fatal: 0 > # Crew: 0 Fat: 0 Ser: 0 Min: 0 Unk: Y > # Pass: 0 Fat: 0 Ser: 0 Min: 0 Unk: Y > # Grnd: Fat: 0 Ser: 0 Min: 0 Unk: > > WEATHER: METAR KPHL 011254Z 27004KT 10SM CLR 24/15 A2976 RMK A02 SLP076 > > OTHER DATA > Activity: Unknown Phase: Take-off Operation: General Aviation > > Departed: WILLIAMSTOWN, NJ Dep Date: 06/01/2002 Dep. Time: > Destination: UNKN Flt Plan: NONE Wx Briefing: Y > Last Radio Cont: UNKN > Last Clearance: UNKN > > FAA FSDO: PHILADELPHIA, PA (EA17) Entry date: 06/03/2002 > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Greg Young" <gyoung@cs-sol.com>
Subject: Painting top of dashboard
Date: Jun 05, 2002
That area is commonly called the glareshield and the most common choice by far is flat black, either with paint of some type of covering. The object is to reduce glare and reflections in the canopy. It forms a distinct area separate from either interior or exterior so color matching either is normally not an issue. Regards, Greg Young - Houston (DWH) RV-6 N6GY ...project Phoenix Navion N5221K - just an XXL RV-6A > > > Hey Guys > I'm ready to permanently mount my front windscreen > (slider) and am > trying to decide if I should paint the dashboard now or cover > it later. > Painting would be lighter, but must be decided on now. I'm > undecided if I > should paint it the same ice blue as the interior or if I > should use the > darker blue that I haven't decided on yet but plan for the > exterior. It > seems that this would be most visible from outside and should > match the > exterior paint. > The other option is just throw a piece of carpet or > other fabric on > it later. I've looked through a bunch of "RV of the week" > photos, but can't > tell what most have done. So what's the most common solution? > What have > others done? why? and would you do it that way again? > > S. Todd Bartrim > 13B rotary powered > RV-9endurance (finish kit) > C-FSTB (reserved) > http://www3.telus.net/haywire/RV-9/C-FSTB.htm > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John" <fasching(at)amigo.net>
Subject: Minimum Fuel Purchase Requirement
Date: Jun 05, 2002
This is only tangentially related to RVs, but here goes (because I need information/help) Harriet Alexander field at Salida, CO, run by BOTH the city of Salida and Chaffee County, is proposing that hangar site leasees (who own their own hangars and lease ground at the airport) be required, as a condtion of being granted a hangar site lease, that they guarantee to purchase a stated minimum amount of aviation fuel each year. The amount that would be required is more fuel than the average sport flier would use each year. Do any of you Rv'ers have such requirements at your airport? How does it work? Is it being enforced? What fuel minimum purchase volumes are being asked? Please respond off line, and thanks for any suggestions...I am a lone voice in the wilderness fighting this thing! fasching(at)amigo.net John at Salida, CO ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ross Mickey" <rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Vernier vs. Friction Throttle
Date: Jun 05, 2002
Ed, If I understand this correctly, this converts a vernier to a friction AND looses the ability of the vernier mechanism to be used to make fine tuning adjustments. I guess the reason for doing this is if I install the vernier and don't like it, this is the way to convert it to a pure friction mechanism. It doesn't appear that there is any way to have a vernier adjustment that doesn't require the push button for quick throttle changes. The three configurations for a vernier are then 1) vernier with push button that allows quick adjustments (standard) 2) vernier only without push button control (remove the pin) (for trim control mechanisms) 3) friction without vernier control (remove pin and ball bearing) (vernier to friction conversion). Thanks again for all the help. Ross Mickey ----- Original Message ----- From: "Cole, Ed" <Ed_Cole(at)maximhq.com> > Ross, > You can convert the vernier to a friction lock. There is an article in the > "20 yrs of the RVator" > discussing it. Basically you unscrew the cable from the push rod, pull out a > pin and a ball bearing. > I replaced the rubber push button cover with a chrome snap plug (3/4" ?) > > Ed Cole ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob Hall" <robjhall(at)adelphia.net>
Subject: Re: Painting top of dashboard
Date: Jun 05, 2002
I painted mine flat black before permanently securing the windscreen and would do it that way again. If you so the paint first method you can always cover it with carpet if you don't like it. Difficult to paint with windscreen in place. Bob Hall, RV-6 Colorado Springs ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Aeroshell 100 W oil temps
Date: Jun 05, 2002
----Original Message Follows---- From: SportAV8R(at)aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: Aeroshell 100 W oil temps Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2002 15:16:32 EDT > Bill, I don't think oil temp is a good measuring stick. If it's 20 degrees > OAT, then by the time you get to 100 degrees oil temp the cylinders are > going to be very hot. Likewise if it's 100+ degrees OAT you won't warm it > up enough. This is turning into (IMO) an interesting thread. Obviously, there are a lot of variables to consider: oil temp, CHT's, how the engine handles throttle opening, engine compartment temps and vapor-lock issues, etc. The goals are safety and engine longevity, with operational convenience (shorter waiting times) thrown in as well. For what it's worth, I can almost always achieve 100 degrees oil temp before the CHT's hit 350, even on very cold days. I never start without an electric preheat below about 45 degrees OAT. I doubt very much that I can make it from the hangar to the end of the turf strip and complete a run-up on a warm day (where oil temp might already be close to 100*F) without getting the cylinders to 200 degrees at least, so that's not a worry for me, at home base, anyway. So here's what I'm hearing: Minimum T/O oil temp (debatable but probably) 50*-70*F. Minimum T/O CHT = 200*F on coldest cylinder. Ultimate test: will she take throttle without a stumble? If this is true, I've been wasting lots of precious moments on the ground, lead-fouling my plugs and watching digital oil temps! Thanks, all. -Bill B Yes Bill your summary is TRUE. See Ed Bundy's post on Lycoming's official word. (Throttle advances smoothly without engine hesitation.) It is my desire to have the prop cycle smoothly and quickly in addition to what Lycoming recommends. Gary A. Sobek "My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell, 1,070.2+ Flying Hours So. CA, USA http://SoCAL_WVAF.tripod.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Carl Froehlich" <carlfro(at)erols.com>
Subject: ELT antenna orientation
Date: Jun 05, 2002
The ELT antenna fits nicely under the empennage fiberglass fairing if mounted horizontally from the aft most bulkhead. This places the antenna in a very survivable location. Some may have issue with the horizontal vice vertical mounting. I counter with the value of a survivable location to operate under an unknown orientation. Carl Froehlich RV-8A (FSDO inspection in 3 weeks or so) Vienna, VA -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Andy Subject: RV-List: ELT antenna orientation When considering where to mount my ELT antenna, I ended up choosing the belly of the plane looking down rather than on top or inside the cabin looking up. The thought was that the time I'd need the ELT the most, is if the plane is flipped over and lying on its top with me trapped inside. If thr plane is right side up, I could always climb out and set up the ELT with the small portable antenna that came with it. I also would be much less likely to be injured if the plane is right-side-up. However over the years, I've never seen another RV with the ELT antenna on the belly and I've wondered if my "wisdom" is really that relevant. Plus, that belly antenna is ugly and draggy and I'd like to make it go away. I think a couple people recently mentioned putting the ELT antenna in the fiberglass wingtip, or perhaps even the entire ELT unit. I like that idea. Besides hiding it, it seems you'd have exposure of the antenna no matter how your downed plane is situated. What I'm wondering, for all you radio gurus, is if we need to be concerned with the directionality or orientation of an ELT antenna. If not, the easiest way to do this would be a strip of copper foil (like my comm antenna) glued horizontally on the bottom of the tip. Is this going to work? Any idea on the proper length? Or, do I need a special kind of antenna? Or, does it need to be situated vertically? Or???? Andy ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "G. Miller" <gvm(at)cableone.net>
Subject: RE: RV8-List: First Flight
Date: Jun 05, 2002
I agree. I didn't even get any transition, too far away--too much time. I did get 15 hours tail wheel practice just before. Did several static run-ups with the cowl to make sure no leaks. Further, since the engine was new, I full bored it for three hours straight. The first hour was circling over IDA with the emergency trucks and tower right there. However, I was not a low time pilot. All went fine. YMMV... Good luke. Greg Miller RV8 N89GM -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Scott Bilinski Subject: RV8-List: First Flight --> RV8-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski The age old debate, should you fly the first flight? The way I look at it is, there are just under 3000 RV's flying they are a proven solid design. If there had been only 15 built I would not want to fly the first flight, due to not enough of a track record. I also think there is a much bigger chance of a engine problem rather than a airplane problem. Any factory plane with a rebuilt engine has the same chance of having a engine problem in my opinion. So get the transition training and go for the first flight? Whats your opinion? Scott Bilinski Eng dept 8220 Phone (858) 657-2536 Pager (858) 502-5190 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 05, 2002
From: kempthornes <kempthornes(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Painting top of dashboard
> >Hey Guys > I'm ready to permanently mount my front windscreen (slider) and am >trying to decide if I should paint the dashboard now or cover it later. Later! Do the plexi just before flight. Seriously! K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne RV6-a N7HK flying! Paso Robles, CA ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 05, 2002
From: kempthornes <kempthornes(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Painting top of dashboard
Because I kept thinking about how that aluminum glareshield would cleave my poor old head open in a crash, I cut it off about half an inch from the panel and made a temporary glareshield of posterboard. I still haven't figured out what to use for the real thing. I can see that plastics would warp in the heat. Even the posterboard has. At any rate, Van's design is unacceptably dangerous here. What have you done? K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne RV6-a N7HK flying! Paso Robles, CA ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 05, 2002
From: Mike Thompson <grobdriver(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: I don't get it.....FLUFF
> landing, with the too-heavy airplane, was reportedly something of > a "thumper," so bad that the tailwheel spring itself broke. That left I knew I should have done the fuel dump thing back when I build the wings! - Mike DNA http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Painting top of dashboard
Date: Jun 05, 2002
> > Because I kept thinking about how that aluminum glareshield would cleave my > poor old head open in a crash, I cut it off about half an inch from the > panel and made a temporary glareshield of posterboard. I still haven't > figured out what to use for the real thing. I can see that plastics would > warp in the heat. Even the posterboard has. At any rate, Van's design is > unacceptably dangerous here. > > What have you done? > > > K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne > RV6-a N7HK flying! > Paso Robles, CA > Hal, I split a length of aluminum tubing (I think it was 3/8" but could have been 1/2" dia) I then pressed it on the glareshield aluminum so that in event of crash it would not act so much like a meat clever. I then covered that with foam used to insulate pipes and finally with vinyl cloth. Ed Anderson RV-6A N494BW Matthews, NC ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "jeffery lorimor" <jlorimor(at)willinet.net>
Subject: Boone flyin reminder
Date: Jun 04, 2002
REMINDER...The Boone, Iowa flyin is coming in a week and a half...June 15th. Location is BNW on your GPS. Unicom is 123.0. Right hand patterns for 33 (paved) and 02 (grass); left hand going the other way. Coffee & donuts @ 9:00 and stay as long as you like. Lunch will be available for a freewill donation. (Actually it's available even without the donation, but we're hoping for some big spending generous eaters). Hopefully there will be lots of beautiful RV's to look at and talk about. Watch out for slow, short wing Pipers upon arrival; they've been invited too...J-3's in particular. Hope to see you here. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us>
Subject: vernier
Date: Jun 05, 2002
Well, My throttle has it and the thing flies very well, as does my other plane. In the 6 with an 0-360 one half turn makes a big difference in climb or descent so a rapid change to full throttle so far has never been needed. The one time I tried it in Tucson the darned engine just sat there for a long second before it realized it was free to go full blast, which is fairly common with M/S carbs. That taught me to not rely on power as the means to get out of a squirrely landing. The Vernier cables Vans sell move 1/4" for each full revolution. This tends to be more than the common mixture cables. The fine tuning of it is perfect for stablizing altitudes, climbs and descents. That is of course if you fly pitch to airspeed and power to altitude. W ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Curt Reimer" <cgreimer(at)mb.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Painting top of dashboard
Date: Jun 05, 2002
Whether you do paoint or cloth or carpet, I'd suggest you do it before you permanently mount the plexi. The windshield forms a very acute angle with the top of the dashboard and it would be very hard to get in there to fit carpet or cloth, or even to paint it evenly, after the plexi is mounted. Also you would have to deal with the roll bar support. If you do it before mounting the plexi, you can just remove the support and put it back later after you paint or glue on your cloth. And, as an added incentive, the hardest to get to areas are perfectly visible through the windshield, so any mess-up is visible forever. I went with a dark grey upholstery cloth, but I don't know if it is better that black paint in practice. Just my $.02. Curt ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bartrim, Todd" <sbartrim(at)mail.canfor.ca> Subject: RV-List: Painting top of dashboard > > Hey Guys > I'm ready to permanently mount my front windscreen (slider) and am > trying to decide if I should paint the dashboard now or cover it later. > Painting would be lighter, but must be decided on now. I'm undecided if I > should paint it the same ice blue as the interior or if I should use the > darker blue that I haven't decided on yet but plan for the exterior. It > seems that this would be most visible from outside and should match the > exterior paint. > The other option is just throw a piece of carpet or other fabric on > it later. I've looked through a bunch of "RV of the week" photos, but can't > tell what most have done. So what's the most common solution? What have > others done? why? and would you do it that way again? > > S. Todd Bartrim > 13B rotary powered > RV-9endurance (finish kit) > C-FSTB (reserved) > http://www3.telus.net/haywire/RV-9/C-FSTB.htm > > > > > > 5.5.2653.12"> > Painting top of dashboard > > > > Hey Guys > FACE"Arial">I'm ready to permanently mount my front windscreen > (slider) and am trying to decide if I should paint the dashboard now or > cover it later. Painting would be lighter, but must be decided on now. > I'm undecided if I should paint it the same ice blue as the interior or > if I should use the darker blue that I haven't decided on yet but plan > for the exterior. It seems that this would be most visible from outside > and should match the exterior paint. > > FACE"Arial">The other option is just throw a piece of carpet or > other fabric on it later. I've looked through a bunch of RV of > the week photos, but can't tell what most have done. So what's > the most common solution? What have others done? why? and would you do > it that way again? > > S. Todd Bartrim > 13B rotary powered > RV-9endurance (finish kit) > C-FSTB (reserved) > HREF"http://www3.telus.net/haywire/RV-9/C-FSTB.htm" > TARGET"_blank">http://www3.telus.net/haywire/RV-9/C-FSTB.htm> T> > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 06, 2002
From: John Lawson <jwlawson(at)hargray.com>
Subject: Minimum Fuel Purchase Requirement
John - I don't believe they can do this. I can't think of the exact paragraph/section off the top of my head, but FAA order 5190.6A covers airport compliance requirements, and if the airport uses Federal $$ for improvements, it agrees to adhere to Federal grant assurances, both of which (I believe) will prohibit this sort of thing. This just doesn't sound right to me. I run two airports for the County (one of them at which we run the FBO), and I can tell you that we don't have such a requirement, and never will. I strongly suggest you contact AOPA and EAA, explain the situation, and ask for their help. Get with other pilots there and ask them to do the same. Those two organizations can and will help out. Also, you can call your FAA Region's Airports District Office, they oversee airport compliance issues and should be able to tell you what's what. You're in the Northwest Mountain Region, Denver Airports District Office, the manager is Alan E. Wiechmann, the address phone #s are: Federal Aviation Administration, Denver ADO, 26805 East 68th Avenue, Suite 224 Denver, Colorado 80249-6361 Phone No.: (303) 342-1252 FAX: (303) 342-1260. If you need more info about the compliance order or grant assurances, you can call me at work at 843-689-5409. Semper Fi John RV-6 (left wing...fuel tank...no work on it in the last month cuz of work...*sigh*) From: "John" <fasching(at)amigo.net> Subject: RV-List: Minimum Fuel Purchase Requirement This is only tangentially related to RVs, but here goes (because I need information/help) Harriet Alexander field at Salida, CO, run by BOTH the city of Salida and Chaffee County, is proposing that hangar site leasees (who own their own hangars and lease ground at the airport) be required, as a condtion of being granted a hangar site lease, that they guarantee to purchase a stated minimum amount of aviation fuel each year. The amount that would be required is more fuel than the average sport flier would use each year. Do any of you Rv'ers have such requirements at your airport? How does it work? Is it being enforced? What fuel minimum purchase volumes are being asked? Please respond off line, and thanks for any suggestions...I am a lone voice in the wilderness fighting this thing! fasching(at)amigo.net John at Salida, CO ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jim Sears" <sears(at)searnet.com>
Subject: Fly-in at Tompkinsville, KY
Date: Jun 06, 2002
There's a first time fly-in at Tompkinsville, KY on Saturday, June 8. Because I know KY pilots tend to keep their airplanes in their hangars on pretty days, I'm hoping some of you TN RVers might be interested in joining me there. I'm going to be there during the morning, weather permitting, to maybe take up some Young Eagles. I'd like to see a KY fly-in have more than one, or two, airplanes fly in. To have a bunch of RVers show up would really be nice, even if you have to come in something else! There is a breakfast starting at 08:00. BBQ starts at 11:00. For more info, call 270-487-0678. Oh, yeah. Tompkinsville is just west of the northern most reaches of Dale Hollow Lake. That's not too far from Nashville, fellas. I know some of you guys are out there. There are some of you in Bowling Green, too. Just look for a little -6A with two blue stripes down the side. That'll be me in it with the grin on my face. :-) Jim Sears in KY RV-6A N198JS EAA Tech Counselor ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 06, 2002
Subject: Re: Painting top of dashboard
From: "Joe D. Wiza" <planejoel(at)juno.com>
I believe that is why sheathes for knives were invented Joe RV6A writes: > > > Because I kept thinking about how that aluminum glareshield would > cleave my > poor old head open in a crash, I cut it off about half an inch > from the > panel and made a temporary glareshield of posterboard. I still > haven't > figured out what to use for the real thing. I can see that > plastics would > warp in the heat. Even the posterboard has. At any rate, Van's > design is > unacceptably dangerous here. > > What have you done? > > > K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne > RV6-a N7HK flying! > Paso Robles, CA > > > > > messages. > > ============ > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Steve Kimmel" <chs-kimmels(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: AV-10 Engine Monitoring System
Date: Jun 06, 2002
Does anyone have any information about the AV-10 engine monitoring system? This is the one with the nice voice that tells you you have no oil pressure. I would love to find a copy of the schematics / install instructions so I can figure out how to properly set thew unit up. It appears the nice voice told the company execs the bank account was empty, go home! Steve Kimmel N4357R Meggett, SC ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 06, 2002
From: Ken Balch <kbalch1(at)attbi.com>
Subject: RPM problem solved
To make a long story short, I was correct in believing that I had a bad prop governor. The new one I installed yesterday fixed the RPM problem completely. The oil temperature anomaly was entirely due to my not letting it warm up sufficiently before going to full power. After changing the governor yesterday, I let it warm to 100 degrees before going to runup power, and to 140 degrees before going to full power. The pressure was never out of the green arc. I'm now waiting for the weather to improve so I can get on with the flight testing. On to the next problem... :-) -- Regards, Ken Balch Ashland, MA RV-8 N118KB Flying ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 06, 2002
From: RV6160hp(at)aol.com
PANCAKE BREAKFAST Oswego NY Sunday June 9th, 2002, EAA486 will host its regular monthly pancake breakfast. If you haven't been to one of these you don't know what you are missing. Open for all Drive-ins, Fly ins.....every one is welcome. (to all our northern friends...unfortunately Customs will NOT be on the field this weekend, clear customs with other entry proceedures accordingly). Mooney's are featured aircraft and as well 3 Corvette clubs I am told will be converging on us.......Weather forecast continues to look promising for all!!!...so we are geared up for a big day!!! Oswego County Airport, Fulton, New York (KFZY). Other info...the Web site link at: http://www.web-flight.com/486/index.html Oswego County Airport: (KFZY) is uncontrolled and can have no-radio traffic in the pattern. KFZY is just over the 10 mile Radius of 2 nuclear power plants, and TFR's may effect which runway you are using, be briefed accordingly please. Traffic pattern is 1300' msl. Please use normal pattern/radio call procedures and as always be careful! 24hr Self serve 100LL is available. FOR THOSE DRIVING IN: The airport is 45 minutes northwest of Syracuse. Take I-481 to Fulton, turn Right on RT 3 at WENDY's, then go left onto RT 176 (see green DOT airport sign), now just 2 miles out of town on Route 176 to the Northeast. The EAA hangar is past the main airport road is on the Northwest side of the airport. Enter the NEW LOCATION gate/fence at the EAA sign, directly behind the hanger now. Questions? Feel free to email me back in this subject line (or McMand(at)aol.com) so I won't miss it in the daily RV list mass emails. Thanks, Respectfully David McManmon President, EAA 486 Oswego Co... Chairman, EAA 486 2002 RV Forum N58DM RV6 Builder/Pilot DNA ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Konrad Werner" <Connywerner(at)wans.net>
Subject: Re: ELT antenna orientation
Date: Jun 06, 2002
Morning Carl, How do the (metal) Tailfeathers affect the ELT-Signal in regards to direction of detection? Thanks, Konrad > > The ELT antenna fits nicely under the empennage fiberglass fairing if > mounted horizontally from the aft most bulkhead. This places the antenna in > a very survivable location. Some may have issue with the horizontal vice > vertical mounting. I counter with the value of a survivable location to > operate under an unknown orientation. > > Carl Froehlich > RV-8A (FSDO inspection in 3 weeks or so) > Vienna, VA ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 06, 2002
From: RV6160hp(at)aol.com
Subject: PANCAKE BREAKFAST Oswego NY Sunday June 9th, 2002
PANCAKE BREAKFAST Oswego NY Sunday June 9th, 2002, EAA486 will host its regular monthly pancake breakfast. If you haven't been to one of these you don't know what you are missing. Open for all Drive-ins, Fly ins.....every one is welcome. (to all our northern friends...unfortunately Customs will NOT be on the field this weekend, clear customs with other entry proceedures accordingly). Mooney's are featured aircraft and as well 3 Corvette clubs I am told will be converging on us.......Weather forecast continues to look promising for all!!!...so we are geared up for a big day!!! Oswego County Airport, Fulton, New York (KFZY). Other info...the Web site link at: http://www.web-flight.com/486/index.html Oswego County Airport: (KFZY) is uncontrolled and can have no-radio traffic in the pattern. KFZY is just over the 10 mile Radius of 2 nuclear power plants, and TFR's may effect which runway you are using, be briefed accordingly please. Traffic pattern is 1300' msl. Please use normal pattern/radio call procedures and as always be careful! 24hr Self serve 100LL is available. FOR THOSE DRIVING IN: The airport is 45 minutes northwest of Syracuse. Take I-481 to Fulton, turn Right on RT 3 at WENDY's, then go left onto RT 176 (see green DOT airport sign), now just 2 miles out of town on Route 176 to the Northeast. The EAA hangar is past the main airport road is on the Northwest side of the airport. Enter the NEW LOCATION gate/fence at the EAA sign, directly behind the hanger now. Questions? Feel free to email me back in this subject line (or McMand(at)aol.com) so I won't miss it in the daily RV list mass emails. Thanks, Respectfully David McManmon President, EAA 486 Oswego Co... Chairman, EAA 486 2002 RV Forum N58DM RV6 Builder/Pilot DNA ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Furey" <john(at)fureychrysler.com>
Subject: Trutrak-vs-Navaid
Date: Jun 06, 2002
I have a new Navaid and I'm considering going to the New Digitrak 100. I would appreciate your input. Anybody looking for a Navaid AP? Best wishes, John RV6A O-320, 28hrs, being painted ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 06, 2002
Subject: RV-8 Roll over bar location
From: "Edward O'Connor" <edwardoconnor(at)compuserve.com>
Reference DWG 37 Dated 4/25/97 for locating the roll over bar on RV-8. My drawings show a distance from the aft side of firewall to the aft side of the rollover bar of 35 15/16" and a reference distance from the roll over bar to the F-807 Bulkhead of 46 1/16". When I locate my rollover bar at the distance called for in the drawing from the firewall, I get a distance of 46 5/16" from the bar to the Bulkhead. About a 1/4" error from the drawing. My questin to those who have already been there is; which distance is the critical one? Should I locate the rollover bar to the specs from the firewall and accept the distance to the F-807 or halve the difference or use the distance from the Bulkead as the critical measurement and accept a greater distance from the Firewall or does it even matter? I guess it involves which is easire to adjust when mounting the canopy, the windscreen or the conopy? Any input would be appreciated. Ed O"Connor RV-8/N366RV Panama City, FL ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: RPM problem solved
Date: Jun 06, 2002
Ken, Congradulations. Chuck >From: Ken Balch <kbalch1(at)attbi.com> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >To: "rv-list(at)matronics.com" >Subject: RV-List: RPM problem solved >Date: Thu, 06 Jun 2002 07:53:22 -0400 > > >To make a long story short, I was correct in believing that I had a bad >prop governor. The new one I installed yesterday fixed the RPM problem >completely. > >The oil temperature anomaly was entirely due to my not letting it warm >up sufficiently before going to full power. After changing the governor >yesterday, I let it warm to 100 degrees before going to runup power, and >to 140 degrees before going to full power. The pressure was never out >of the green arc. > >I'm now waiting for the weather to improve so I can get on with the >flight testing. On to the next problem... :-) > >-- >Regards, >Ken Balch >Ashland, MA >RV-8 N118KB >Flying > > Join the worlds largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. http://www.hotmail.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: First Flight
Date: Jun 06, 2002
Scott, Agreed. Also if you taken your transisiton training (very highly recommended) you'll have to fly someday. Chuck Rowbotham RV-8A >From: Scott Bilinski <bilinski(at)qcpi.com> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: RV-List: First Flight >Date: Wed, 05 Jun 2002 09:53:59 -0700 > > >The age old debate, should you fly the first flight? > >The way I look at it is, there are just under 3000 RV's flying they are a >proven solid design. If there had been only 15 built I would not want to >fly the first flight, due to not enough of a track record. I also think >there is a much bigger chance of a engine problem rather than a airplane >problem. Any factory plane with a rebuilt engine has the same chance of >having a engine problem in my opinion. So get the transition training and >go for the first flight? > >Whats your opinion? > > >Scott Bilinski >Eng dept 8220 >Phone (858) 657-2536 >Pager (858) 502-5190 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)attbi.com>
Subject: Re: Minimum Fuel Purchase Requirement
Date: Jun 06, 2002
> Please respond off line, and thanks for any suggestions...I am a lone > voice > in the wilderness fighting this thing! You don't have to be. Go to http://www.aopa.org/asn and look up the AOPA Airport Support Network Volunteer. I show him as being Bill Harriet. Perhaps he can help. And to everyone: I encourage people to find out who the ASNV is for their particular airport, and if there is none, consider signing up. You'll have access to all sorts of AOPA material on supporting airports, plus a private conference area with all of the other ASNVs in the country. Not to mention the ear of AOPA HQ. We need to get active and support our airports, and a "lone voice in the wilderness" can't do much, but when he gets together with a bunch of "lone voices" then a lot can be done. AOPA's guide to FAA Airport Compliance is available to anyone at the above web site. Check it out -- I'll bet that sort of thing is not allowed. Randall Henderson ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 06, 2002
From: glenn williams <willig10(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RV8-List: RV-8 Roll over bar location
I had the same problem. ( I am in George Orndorffs hangar) I had him look at this as well last week and he informed me to make the measurement from the aft side of the firewall the critical measurement. I had about 1/4" gap between the two marks and basically split them in two and used that as a reference when drilling the holes. I used a steel plate bar clamped behind the roll bar and used the forward side of the bar to locate the structure on my measured marks. Hope this helps. Glenn Williams --- Edward O'Connor wrote: > --> RV8-List message posted by: "Edward O'Connor" > > > Reference DWG 37 Dated 4/25/97 for locating the roll > over bar on RV-8. My > drawings show a distance from the aft side of > firewall to the aft side of > the rollover bar of 35 15/16" and a reference > distance from the roll over > bar to the F-807 Bulkhead of 46 1/16". When I > locate my rollover bar at the > distance called for in the drawing from the > firewall, I get a distance of 46 > 5/16" from the bar to the Bulkhead. About a 1/4" > error from the drawing. > My questin to those who have already been there is; > which distance is the > critical one? Should I locate the rollover bar to > the specs from the > firewall and accept the distance to the F-807 or > halve the difference or use > the distance from the Bulkead as the critical > measurement and accept a > greater distance from the Firewall or does it even > matter? I guess it > involves which is easire to adjust when mounting the > canopy, the windscreen > or the conopy? Any input would be appreciated. > Ed O"Connor > RV-8/N366RV > Panama City, FL > > > > Contributions of > any other form > > latest messages. > other List members. > > http://www.matronics.com/subscription > http://www.matronics.com/photoshare > http://www.matronics.com/search > http://www.matronics.com/archives > http://www.matronics.com/emaillists > > > > > ==== Glenn Williams 8A A&P N81GW http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 06, 2002
From: Gary Liming <gary(at)liming.org>
Subject: Re: Painting top of dashboard
> >Cleaveland Tools and others sell glareshield edge stripping...see >http://www.cleavelandtool.com/catalog/rvacc.html They also sell some black matte vinyl covering for the panel top to cut glare - anyone have any experience about how well this stands up to the sunlight and fading? Thanks, Gary Liming ________________________________________________________________________________
From: HCRV6(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 06, 2002
Subject: Re: ELT antenna orientation
In a message dated 6/5/02 5:41:27 PM Pacific Daylight Time, carlfro(at)erols.com writes: The ELT antenna fits nicely under the empennage fiberglass fairing if mounted horizontally from the aft most bulkhead. This places the antenna in a very survivable location. Some may have issue with the horizontal vice vertical mounting. I counter with the value of a survivable location to operate under an unknown orientation. >> Can someone more knowledgeable than I comment on whether an ELT antenna in this location would be too close to the empennage surfaces to be effective or not? I like Carl's idea but am concerned about that. Harry Crosby Pleasanton, California RV-6, electrical stuff ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Greg Young" <gyoung@cs-sol.com>
Subject: Painting top of dashboard
Date: Jun 06, 2002
I put split ~5/8 OD rubber reinforced fuel hose over the edge and then foam pipe insulation over that. By rights I should have hit it but it did not leave a mark on me or the foam. I have saved the hose and it will go back on the Phoenix. Can't argue with success. Regards, Greg Young - Houston (DWH) RV-6 N6GY ...project Phoenix Navion N5221K - just an XXL RV-6A > > > Because I kept thinking about how that aluminum glareshield > would cleave my > poor old head open in a crash, I cut it off about half an > inch from the > panel and made a temporary glareshield of posterboard. I > still haven't > figured out what to use for the real thing. I can see that > plastics would > warp in the heat. Even the posterboard has. At any rate, > Van's design is > unacceptably dangerous here. > > What have you done? > > > K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne > RV6-a N7HK flying! > Paso Robles, CA ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bartrim, Todd" <sbartrim(at)mail.canfor.ca>
Subject: Painting top of dashboard
Date: Jun 06, 2002
> I split a length of aluminum tubing (I think it was 3/8" but could have > been 1/2" dia) I then pressed it on the glareshield aluminum so that in > event of crash it would not act so much like a meat clever. I then > covered > that with foam used to insulate pipes and finally with vinyl cloth. > Hi Ed; Even on this list you have the best answers. Even though I hadn't asked about the edge, it was something that I was thinking about. I will use this same technique and I think I will use fabric to cover the top of the glaresheild. I'll make a template of the exact shape now, then later I can install the cloth. I think I will use Velcro to hold it in place for easy removal for cleaning. Of coarse this is all going to weigh allot more than a little black paint..... Thanx for all the replies. S. Todd Bartrim 13B rotary powered RV-9endurance (finish kit) C-FSTB (reserved) http://www3.telus.net/haywire/RV-9/C-FSTB.htm RE: RV-List: Painting top of dashboard I split a length of aluminum tubing (I think it was 3/8 but could have been 1/2 dia) I then pressed it on the glareshield aluminum so that in event of crash it would not act so much like a meat clever. I then covered that with foam used to insulate pipes and finally with vinyl cloth. Hi Ed; Even on this list you have the best answers. Even though I hadn't asked about the edge, it was something that I was thinking about. I will use this same technique and I think I will use fabric to cover the top of the glaresheild. I'll make a template of the exact shape now, then later I can install the cloth. I think I will use Velcro to hold it in place for easy removal for cleaning. Of coarse this is all going to weigh allot more than a little black paint..... Thanx for all the replies. S. Todd Bartrim 13B rotary powered RV-9endurance (finish kit) C-FSTB (reserved) http://www3.telus.net/haywire/RV-9/C-FSTB.htm ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Garth Shearing" <garth(at)Islandnet.com>
Subject: Re: ELT antenna orientation
Date: Jun 06, 2002
IMHO the antenna will not work too well being too close to large metal objects there. I believe the best place for the antenna and the ELT itself is a foot or two ahead of the fin on the top of the fuselage. It would be better if the ELT and antenna could be installed without any RF cable at all. This agrees with the original installation instructions given out when ELT's were first introduced. The fin will tend to protect the antenna in the case of a roll or flip over. Orientation after a crash doesn't matter because orbiting aircraft and satellites "look" at the activated ELT from many angles. And, in most crashed aircraft, it is the tail section that is least damaged. If you want the ELT to actually work after a crash, for Pete's sake, don't put the antenna(s) in the wing tip(s). If there is an RF cable connecting the ELT and the antenna, it is going to be severed. Forget the little bit of drag that you get from an externally mounted flexible ELT antenna. Do it right, save your life, and make the installation simpler too. Garth Shearing VariEze and 80% RV6A Victoria BC Canada | | Can someone more knowledgeable than I comment on whether an ELT antenna in | this location would be too close to the empennage surfaces to be effective or | not? ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 06, 2002
From: kempthornes <kempthornes(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Painting top of dashboard
> >They also sell some black matte vinyl covering for the panel top to cut >glare I bought new windows for my Debonair from Cee Baileys and their instructions for installing were emphatic that the plexiglass should be kept away from vinyl fabric. Apparently they interact. Might burst your bubble! Hal Kempthorne RV6a flying @ PRB ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 06, 2002
From: kempthornes <kempthornes(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Painting top of dashboard
> >I put split ~5/8 OD rubber reinforced fuel hose over the edge and then foam >pipe insulation over that. By rights I should have hit it but it did not >leave a mark on me or the foam. I have saved the hose and it will go back on >the Phoenix. Can't argue with success. Do you mean that you were involved in a crash and hit your head on the rubberized edge and were unmarked???? Does that mean it works or that you didn't hit very hard? Was the aluminum bent up? Auto mfrs learned years ago that soft foam does little in a crash as the impact immediately bottoms it out. As a result crash padding is really quite hard. I believe special foams are made for this padding. K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne RV6-a N7HK flying! PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 06, 2002
From: Andy <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com>
Subject: Re: ELT antenna orientation
> If you want the ELT to actually work after a crash, for Pete's sake, don't put > the antenna(s) in the wing tip(s). If there is an RF cable connecting the ELT > and the antenna, it is going to be severed. Forget the little bit of drag > that you get from an externally mounted flexible ELT antenna. Do it right, > save your life, and make the installation simpler too. > But not if you put both the ELT unit AND the antenna in the wing tip. Then you get the best of all worlds. No RF cable through the wing, no ugly draggy antenna on the belly, and no cumbersome ELT unit in the baggage compartment. Andy ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Eric.J.Henson(at)chase.com
Subject: P-51 training manual
Date: Jun 06, 2002
03:12:55 PM Non RV related, but good reading http://www.huntress.com/manualframespage.htm ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts(at)unionsafe.com>
Subject: RV-4 w/ Mazda engine
Date: Jun 06, 2002
It looks ... uh ... interesting. This plane isn't half as attractive when you take away those sexy cheek cowls. http://www.der-wankelmotor.de/Flugzeuge/flugzeuge.html <http://www.der-wankelmotor.de/Flugzeuge/flugzeuge.html> -- Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA Network Administrator Union Safe Deposit Bank 209-946-5116 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Carl Froehlich" <carlfro(at)erols.com>
Subject: ELT antenna orientation
Date: Jun 06, 2002
Undetermined other than this mounting will be less effective compared to and antenna mounted in the clear. My point is this location provides a survivable spot for the antenna to work when you really want it to. Situations where a not so good landing produces wings that get sheared off, fuselage bellies in the mud, inverted, etc. tend to make most other mounting locations less attractive. Carl. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Konrad Werner Subject: Re: RV-List: ELT antenna orientation Morning Carl, How do the (metal) Tailfeathers affect the ELT-Signal in regards to direction of detection? Thanks, Konrad > > The ELT antenna fits nicely under the empennage fiberglass fairing if > mounted horizontally from the aft most bulkhead. This places the antenna in > a very survivable location. Some may have issue with the horizontal vice > vertical mounting. I counter with the value of a survivable location to > operate under an unknown orientation. > > Carl Froehlich > RV-8A (FSDO inspection in 3 weeks or so) > Vienna, VA ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 06, 2002
From: Kevin Horton <khorto1537(at)rogers.com>
Subject: 5mm wire seals?
I've got some coax cable I need to run through the baffle on my RV-8 to send power to the LightSpeed coils. The coax is 5 mm in diameter, so I ordered 5 mm ignition wire seals from ACS. Well, the part number on the package matches the description in the catalog, but the holes are about 7 mm in diameter. So, can anyone point me at a vendor who actually carries 5 mm wire seals for two wires? I've had such a frustrating and expensive time dealing with AC$ that I'll order these things from just about anywhere to avoid having to deal with them again. Thanks, -- Kevin Horton RV-8 (installing engine & electrics) Ottawa, Canada http://members.rogers.com/khorton/rv8.html ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 06, 2002
From: gert <gert(at)execpc.com>
rv-list
Subject: RV8: rear spar attach points
Hi Folks Been setting up my wings on my RV8 and found following with the top longerons level along and across, it appears the rear spar attach point is higher on the left side than on the right side. Left I will barely make the required 5/8" edge distance, Right there is no problem. I think there is 3/16" difference left and right with the right rear spar attach ear bottom being flush with the bottom of the fork. Of course, I could drop the back of both wings 0.1 degree which would considerably help the left side... Sigh.....how sinple life was before the digital level............... Anybody seen similar on their rear attach points or are others pretty much equal left and right ??? Thanks gert -- is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 06, 2002
From: Ed Holyoke <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net>
Subject: RV8: rear spar attach points
Gert, Better check the front spar attach points. I've got a QB 6 in which the longerons are not really parallel. There is significant twist built into the fuselage in the cabin area. You may have a similar situation. I leveled across the spar carry through instead of the longerons and then checked the rear spar attach points (which is where the twist is an issue). You can cheat the wings up or down to get your edge distance. Just do both the same and then set your horiz stab to match the wing. Have fun with it, Ed Holyoke Hi Folks Been setting up my wings on my RV8 and found following with the top longerons level along and across, it appears the rear spar attach point is higher on the left side than on the right side. Left I will barely make the required 5/8" edge distance, Right there is no problem. I think there is 3/16" difference left and right with the right rear spar attach ear bottom being flush with the bottom of the fork. Of course, I could drop the back of both wings 0.1 degree which would considerably help the left side... Sigh.....how sinple life was before the digital level............... Anybody seen similar on their rear attach points or are others pretty much equal left and right ??? Thanks gert -- is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Robert J. Dean" <deanrobertj(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Ridge edge distance
Date: Jun 06, 2002
I am current working on the horizontal stablizer. At one point it says to enlarge the holes in the flange of HS-708 to Drill size no. 19. It appears that if you do this there is not enough minimum edge distance (2D) to be legal. My calculations (from memory) are as follows: Decimal equvalent of #19 drill: .166 times 2 equals required minimum edge distance of .332. There are two edge distances and one drill hole whose total adds up to .830 (.332 plus .332 plus .166). The measured width of the flange on the HS708 is 5/8 or .625. If my calculations are correct the minimum edge distance requirement of 2D is not met on the narrow portion of the flange(width) that connects to the rear spar. If my analysis is correct, I think the problem was created when they went from a 1/8 rivet to a blind rivet large enough to require a number 19 drill hole. I belive this was done to simplify construction methods. It seems that the flange for the 708 should have been made wide enough to meet the minimun edge distance requirement. If I am correct, does anybody have a solution? From everything I read I do not think that minimum edge distance is anything to be ignored. Thanks, Bob Dean MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Ewinne(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 07, 2002
Subject: caution voice
Steve: PS Engineering (the Audio Panel and Intercom people) have an add-on for their systems with standard voice warnings for a number of systems such as low oil, etc. These are triggered by standard warning sensors (such as Van's oil-pressure-activated Hobbs meter with the oil-pressure warning switch). The system has up to 6 pre-recorded messages plus a digital recorder (some call it a clearance recorder) and hooks into your intercom. List price about $500. Ed Winne RV9A Palmyra PA From: "Eric" <enewton57(at)cableone.net>
Subject: Re: Ridge edge distance
Date: Jun 07, 2002
The edge distance is measured from the center of the hole. Therefore you would want the edge distance to be .332 from the center of the hole. To work measuring it this way the total width of the piece would need to be .664 which is very close to the 5/8". Hope this helps, Eric Newton - Long Beach, MS RV-6A - N57ME (Flying) www.ericsrv6a.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "Robert J. Dean" <deanrobertj(at)hotmail.com> Subject: RV-List: Ridge edge distance > > I am current working on the horizontal stablizer. At one point it says to > enlarge the holes in the flange of HS-708 to Drill size no. 19. > > It appears that if you do this there is not enough minimum edge distance > (2D) to be legal. > > My calculations (from memory) are as follows: > > Decimal equvalent of #19 drill: .166 times 2 equals required minimum edge > distance of .332. There are two edge distances and one drill hole whose > total adds up to .830 (.332 plus .332 plus .166). The measured width of the > flange on the HS708 is 5/8 or .625. If my calculations are correct the > minimum edge distance requirement of 2D is not met on the narrow portion of > the flange(width) that connects to the rear spar. > > If my analysis is correct, I think the problem was created when they went > from a 1/8 rivet to a blind rivet large enough to require a number 19 drill > hole. I belive this was done to simplify construction methods. > > It seems that the flange for the 708 should have been made wide enough to > meet the minimun edge distance requirement. > > If I am correct, does anybody have a solution? From everything I read I do > not think that minimum edge distance is anything to be ignored. > > Thanks, > > Bob Dean > > MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: > http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ed Bundy" <ebundy(at)velocitus.net>
Subject: Re: Ridge edge distance
Date: Jun 07, 2002
> I am current working on the horizontal stablizer. At one point it says to > enlarge the holes in the flange of HS-708 to Drill size no. 19. > > It appears that if you do this there is not enough minimum edge distance > (2D) to be legal. Double check with The Standard Aircraft Book, or Van's, but I'm pretty sure the edge distance multiplier goes down with the size of the hole. For a #19 hole, I think you need something less than 2X, but I'm not sure what it is. Ed Bundy - RV6A N427EM 500+ hours 160hp 0320 w/Sensenich 70x78 Eagle, ID ebundy(at)velocitus.net ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ed Bundy" <ebundy(at)velocitus.net>
Subject: Re: RV8: rear spar attach points
Date: Jun 07, 2002
Edge distance on the rear spar attach point is THE most important thing. If you have to fudge the wings .1 degree to get it, then go for it. The airframe won't care one bit. Don't worry about setting the wing perfectly to the fuselage - the angle we're concerned about is the one between the wing and the H.S. The fuse is just a handy structure to hold the alignment of the flying surfaces. Ed Bundy - RV6A N427EM 500+ hours 160hp 0320 w/Sensenich 70x78 Eagle, ID ebundy(at)velocitus.net > with the top longerons level along and across, it appears the rear spar > attach point is higher on the left side than on the right side. > > Left I will barely make the required 5/8" edge distance, Right there is > no problem. I think there is 3/16" difference left and right with the > right rear spar attach ear bottom being flush with the bottom of the fork. > > Of course, I could drop the back of both wings 0.1 degree which would > considerably help the left side... > > Sigh.....how sinple life was before the digital level............... ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 07, 2002
Subject: Hi Andy
From: cecilth(at)juno.com
We seem to be unsuccessful finding the negs. for the flyer you wanted. Can you resend the file? Fred has one last place to look, but I really doubt he will find it there. Cecil ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "F. Parker Thomas" <me(at)parkerthomas.com>
Subject: transition training
Date: Jun 07, 2002
Hi - Does anyone know of an instructor doing RV transition training in the Louisville area? Will have a current taildragger endorsement, but would like transition training in a RV-6-7-8 tail dragger. Thanks, Parker Rv-8 finishing canopy - only cowling remains. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 07, 2002
From: P M Condon <pcondon(at)mitre.org>
Subject: NEW Harmon Ricket III
http://Harmonrocket.com/ Not quite RV related but close enough in my book. A Rocket-ized RV-3 I think. http://Harmonrocket.com/ While I'am at it.... Teamrocket announced a side-by-side Rocket 3 months ago too. Check out www.teamrocketaircraft.com. For those who don't know. Rockets are RVs or steroids.(with the proper engineering) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: ELT antenna orientation
Date: Jun 07, 2002
I tested this installation on my RV-8A a couple of years ago and it worked great . There was no noticable degradation in the signal for the ten mile range that I tried it at. Mounting it horizontally under the empenage cover, I feel, is a good, safe, installation. Mike Robertson RV-8A flying RV-6A building >From: HCRV6(at)aol.com >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: Re: RV-List: ELT antenna orientation >Date: Thu, 6 Jun 2002 14:27:39 EDT > > >In a message dated 6/5/02 5:41:27 PM Pacific Daylight Time, >carlfro(at)erols.com >writes: > > > The ELT antenna fits nicely under the empennage fiberglass fairing if > mounted horizontally from the aft most bulkhead. This places the antenna >in > a very survivable location. Some may have issue with the horizontal vice > vertical mounting. I counter with the value of a survivable location to > operate under an unknown orientation. > >> > >Can someone more knowledgeable than I comment on whether an ELT antenna in >this location would be too close to the empennage surfaces to be effective >or >not? I like Carl's idea but am concerned about that. > >Harry Crosby >Pleasanton, California >RV-6, electrical stuff > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Greg Young" <gyoung@cs-sol.com>
Subject: Painting top of dashboard
Date: Jun 07, 2002
Hal, The short answer is that I don't really know if I hit it. My glareshield extended 5 inches aft of the panel. I was using Pacific Aero belts with a crotch strap and I like to keep the shoulder harness tight. The longeron from the shoulder harness attach point to the 605 bulkhead was not buckled so there was no extra "give" in the shoulder harness other than the stretch of the webbing. The PacAero belts use a heavy webbing that would have less stretch than lighter weight belts. I'm also a big guy (6'3", 10+ bubba factor) so my head was well above the glareshield. IF the belts stretched enough I might have hit the glareshield, maybe from the top, although there's no crease in it to show it folded down or buckled. A longer glareshield has the advantage of less buckling resistance with the downside of closer proximity. Something did hit my compass mounted on the windshield support and bent the mount forward. It might have been my headset which came off my head. It's entirely possible that I did not hit the glareshield at all. Either way, the combination of the glareshield edging and the belt system saved me from head injury. I went from 80 to 0 in 100 feet (or 40 to 0 in 3 ft when I hit the tree). My accident was on the ragged edge of survivability. I plan to use the same padding and belt system on the rebuild but I WILL be wearing Nomex and a helmut on it's next first flight. Regards, Greg Young - Houston (DWH) RV-6 N6GY ...project Phoenix Navion N5221K - just an XXL RV-6A > > > > > >I put split ~5/8 OD rubber reinforced fuel hose over the > edge and then foam > >pipe insulation over that. By rights I should have hit it > but it did not > >leave a mark on me or the foam. I have saved the hose and it > will go back on > >the Phoenix. Can't argue with success. > > Do you mean that you were involved in a crash and hit your > head on the > rubberized edge and were unmarked???? > > Does that mean it works or that you didn't hit very hard? > Was the aluminum > bent up? > > Auto mfrs learned years ago that soft foam does little in a > crash as the > impact immediately bottoms it out. As a result crash padding > is really > quite hard. I believe special foams are made for this padding. > > > K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne > RV6-a N7HK flying! > PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA) > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Michel Boucher" <michelboucher594(at)rogers.com>
Subject: Re: RV8-List: RV-8 Roll over bar location
Date: Jun 07, 2002
On mine playing with the dimensions gave me more of a gap between the roll-over bar and the canopy frame then I liked. If I was to do it over again I would probably forget any dimensions. Install the canopy slider frame as you cannot adjust that. Then set the roll-over bar with the recommended gap between the frame. Just another idea. Michel RV3 1100 hrs RV8 painting -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of glenn williams Subject: RV-List: Re: RV8-List: RV-8 Roll over bar location I had the same problem. ( I am in George Orndorffs hangar) I had him look at this as well last week and he informed me to make the measurement from the aft side of the firewall the critical measurement. I had about 1/4" gap between the two marks and basically split them in two and used that as a reference when drilling the holes. I used a steel plate bar clamped behind the roll bar and used the forward side of the bar to locate the structure on my measured marks. Hope this helps. Glenn Williams --- Edward O'Connor wrote: > --> RV8-List message posted by: "Edward O'Connor" > > > Reference DWG 37 Dated 4/25/97 for locating the roll > over bar on RV-8. My > drawings show a distance from the aft side of > firewall to the aft side of > the rollover bar of 35 15/16" and a reference > distance from the roll over > bar to the F-807 Bulkhead of 46 1/16". When I > locate my rollover bar at the > distance called for in the drawing from the > firewall, I get a distance of 46 > 5/16" from the bar to the Bulkhead. About a 1/4" > error from the drawing. > My questin to those who have already been there is; > which distance is the > critical one? Should I locate the rollover bar to > the specs from the > firewall and accept the distance to the F-807 or > halve the difference or use > the distance from the Bulkead as the critical > measurement and accept a > greater distance from the Firewall or does it even > matter? I guess it > involves which is easire to adjust when mounting the > canopy, the windscreen > or the conopy? Any input would be appreciated. > Ed O"Connor > RV-8/N366RV > Panama City, FL > > > Contributions of > any other form > > latest messages. > other List members. > > http://www.matronics.com/subscription > http://www.matronics.com/photoshare > http://www.matronics.com/search > http://www.matronics.com/archives > http://www.matronics.com/emaillists > > ==== Glenn Williams 8A A&P N81GW http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 07, 2002
From: Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com>
Subject: Re: RV-4 w/ Mazda engine
"Van Artsdalen, Scott" wrote: > > > It looks ... uh ... interesting. This plane isn't half as attractive when > you take away those sexy cheek cowls. > > http://www.der-wankelmotor.de/Flugzeuge/flugzeuge.html > <http://www.der-wankelmotor.de/Flugzeuge/flugzeuge.html> > > -- > Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA > Network Administrator > Union Safe Deposit Bank > 209-946-5116 > Uh...you aren't saying that it looks like an -8 are you? (might be time to duck & cover) obligatory ;-) Charlie cheeky -4 (sold) cheekless wankel powered -6 in the future ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: caution voice
Date: Jun 07, 2002
Ed, We wired our Rocky Mountain Micro Monitor, Encoder and AOA directly to the headset jcks. Works very well. Chuck & Dave Rowbotham RV-8A (Westerlr, RI) >From: Ewinne(at)aol.com >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: RV-List: caution voice >Date: Fri, 7 Jun 2002 05:11:29 EDT > > >Steve: > >PS Engineering (the Audio Panel and Intercom people) have an add-on for >their >systems with standard voice warnings for a number of systems such as low >oil, >etc. These are triggered by standard warning sensors (such as Van's >oil-pressure-activated Hobbs meter with the oil-pressure warning switch). >The >system has up to 6 pre-recorded messages plus a digital recorder (some call >it a clearance recorder) and hooks into your intercom. List price about >$500. > >Ed Winne >RV9A >Palmyra PA > >pressure. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV8: rear spar attach points
Date: Jun 07, 2002
Gert, WE were close as well. You might want to give our friends at Van's a call and ask for their opinion/advice. Chuck & Dave Rowbtoham RV-8A (Westerly airport) >From: gert <gert(at)execpc.com> >Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >To: "rv8list(at)egroups.com" , rv-list > >Subject: RV-List: RV8: rear spar attach points >Date: Thu, 06 Jun 2002 21:58:20 -0500 > > >Hi Folks > >Been setting up my wings on my RV8 and found following > >with the top longerons level along and across, it appears the rear spar >attach point is higher on the left side than on the right side. > >Left I will barely make the required 5/8" edge distance, Right there is >no problem. I think there is 3/16" difference left and right with the >right rear spar attach ear bottom being flush with the bottom of the fork. > >Of course, I could drop the back of both wings 0.1 degree which would >considerably help the left side... > >Sigh.....how sinple life was before the digital level............... > >Anybody seen similar on their rear attach points or are others pretty >much equal left and right ??? > > >Thanks > >gert >-- >is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500 > > Join the worlds largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. http://www.hotmail.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 07, 2002
From: Michael McGee <jmpcrftr(at)teleport.com>
Subject: RV-4 w/ Mazda engine
> >The rotary installations are intriguing, as are the Subaru conversions, >but how do they muffle the Wankels? Mazda uses a cast-iron muffler to >deal with the heat, but it seems that would be too heavy and sheet metal >mufflers might just melt away. Does anyone manufacture a good muffler >for this application? > >Thanks, >Bob >RV-9A builder That as they say is a work in progress. Some have had better luck than others, a design for NASCAR mufflers is showing promise. Anything less than 050 321 SS is usually short lived. You can read about Tracy's trials at http://www.rotaryaviation.com/ . A turbo helps a lot both as a muffler and to get some hp out of the heat. Some are using Inconel turbines to deal with the 1700 F exhaust. Mike Mike McGee, RV-4 N996RV, O320-E2G, Aurora, OR 13B in gestation mode ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Ridge edge distance
Date: Jun 07, 2002
Bob, and others new to the jigless construction. Since the spar is the last piece to go onto the HS, there is not way to rivet the 708 to the aft spar without using the 5-4 pops (two). Bob, I thought of the same thing when I built mine but then looked around. This area is compression only. The 708 to riveted to the front spar and 702, has 9 rivets on the top skin side, 9 on the bottom. The aft spar is riveted to the skin span length and doublers span length. These two rivets are merely securing the aft flange. I really don't think this is of concern. I'm not trying to minimize your concern in sending the post. I just really don't think this is anything to lose sleep over:-). I think I have this documented on my website. Dana Overall Richmond, KY 7 emp. completed, wings shipped today http://rvflying.tripod.com MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Clinchy, Dave" <ClinchD(at)losrios.edu>
Subject: Painting top of dashboard
Date: Jun 07, 2002
Greg, You can't leave us hanging... sounds like a good story. What's the rest of it? How did it happen? Some of us are new to the list and have not heard the whole story. Thanks Dave C, Sacramento -7 tail done, waiting for wings -----Original Message----- From: Greg Young [mailto:gyoung@cs-sol.com] Subject: RE: RV-List: Painting top of dashboard Hal, The short answer is that I don't really know if I hit it. My glareshield extended 5 inches aft of the panel. I was using Pacific Aero belts with a crotch strap and I like to keep the shoulder harness tight. The longeron from the shoulder harness attach point to the 605 bulkhead was not buckled so there was no extra "give" in the shoulder harness other than the stretch of the webbing. The PacAero belts use a heavy webbing that would have less stretch than lighter weight belts. I'm also a big guy (6'3", 10+ bubba factor) so my head was well above the glareshield. IF the belts stretched enough I might have hit the glareshield, maybe from the top, although there's no crease in it to show it folded down or buckled. A longer glareshield has the advantage of less buckling resistance with the downside of closer proximity. Something did hit my compass mounted on the windshield support and bent the mount forward. It might have been my headset which came off my head. It's entirely possible that I did not hit the glareshield at all. Either way, the combination of the glareshield edging and the belt system saved me from head injury. I went from 80 to 0 in 100 feet (or 40 to 0 in 3 ft when I hit the tree). My accident was on the ragged edge of survivability. I plan to use the same padding and belt system on the rebuild but I WILL be wearing Nomex and a helmut on it's next first flight. Regards, Greg Young - Houston (DWH) RV-6 N6GY ...project Phoenix Navion N5221K - just an XXL RV-6A > > > > > >I put split ~5/8 OD rubber reinforced fuel hose over the > edge and then foam > >pipe insulation over that. By rights I should have hit it > but it did not > >leave a mark on me or the foam. I have saved the hose and it > will go back on > >the Phoenix. Can't argue with success. > > Do you mean that you were involved in a crash and hit your > head on the > rubberized edge and were unmarked???? > > Does that mean it works or that you didn't hit very hard? > Was the aluminum > bent up? > > Auto mfrs learned years ago that soft foam does little in a > crash as the > impact immediately bottoms it out. As a result crash padding > is really > quite hard. I believe special foams are made for this padding. > > > K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne > RV6-a N7HK flying! > PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA) > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bartrim, Todd" <sbartrim(at)mail.canfor.ca>
Subject: RV-4 w/ Mazda engine
Date: Jun 07, 2002
> >The rotary installations are intriguing, as are the Subaru conversions, > >but how do they muffle the Wankels? Mazda uses a cast-iron muffler to > >deal with the heat, but it seems that would be too heavy and sheet metal > >mufflers might just melt away. Does anyone manufacture a good muffler > >for this application? > > > >Thanks, > >Bob > >RV-9A builder > > That as they say is a work in progress. Some have had better luck than > others, a design for NASCAR mufflers is showing promise. Anything less > than 050 321 SS is usually short lived. You can read about Tracy's trials > > at http://www.rotaryaviation.com/ . > > A turbo helps a lot both as a muffler and to get some hp out of the > heat. Some are using Inconel turbines to deal with the 1700 F exhaust. > > Mike > Hi Bob; As Mike has stated it is a work in progress, however we may have found a successful product. A member of another list found a SS muffler made by SpinTech. All list members made a contribution to buy one, and SpinTech was happy to build one to required specs (even for an aircraft!). Tracy Crook of Real World Solutions installed it on his 13B RV-4 and has been making status reports on it's performance. So far it has held up fine against the high pressures & heat generated by the rotary. It is also very effective at muzzling the bark of the rotary. http://www.rotaryaviation.com S. Todd Bartrim 13B rotary powered RV-9endurance (finish kit) C-FSTB (reserved) http://www3.telus.net/haywire/RV-9/C-FSTB.htm RE: RV-List: RV-4 w/ Mazda engine The rotary installations are intriguing, as are the Subaru conversions, but how do they muffle the Wankels? Mazda uses a cast-iron muffler to deal with the heat, but it seems that would be too heavy and sheet metal mufflers might just melt away. Does anyone manufacture a good muffler for this application? Thanks, Bob RV-9A builder That as they say is a work in progress. Some have had better luck than others, a design for NASCAR mufflers is showing promise. Anything less than 050 321 SS is usually short lived. You can read about Tracy's trials at http://www.rotaryaviation.com/ . A turbo helps a lot both as a muffler and to get some hp out of the heat. Some are using Inconel turbines to deal with the 1700 F exhaust. Mike Hi Bob; As Mike has stated it is a work in progress, however we may have found a successful product. A member of another list found a SS muffler made by SpinTech. All list members made a contribution to buy one, and SpinTech was happy to build one to required specs (even for an aircraft!). Tracy Crook of Real World Solutions installed it on his 13B RV-4 and has been making status reports on it's performance. So far it has held up fine against the high pressures heat generated by the rotary. It is also very effective at muzzling the bark of the rotary. For a detailed report on this, go to Tracy's site http://www.rotaryaviation.com S. Todd Bartrim 13B rotary powered RV-9endurance (finish kit) C-FSTB (reserved) http://www3.telus.net/haywire/RV-9/C-FSTB.htm ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 07, 2002
From: Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com>
Subject: Re: RV-4 w/ Mazda engine
Robert Armstrong wrote: > > > The rotary installations are intriguing, as are the Subaru conversions, > but how do they muffle the Wankels? Mazda uses a cast-iron muffler to > deal with the heat, but it seems that would be too heavy and sheet metal > mufflers might just melt away. Does anyone manufacture a good muffler > for this application? > > Thanks, > Bob > RV-9A builder > To get good info it would be best to talk to someone who's flying, like Tracy Crook or Ed Anderson. I did hear both planes in Memphis 2 weeks ago, so I can give you some subjective info on noise levels.

May 29, 2002 - June 07, 2002

RV-Archive.digest.vol-mx