RV-Archive.digest.vol-nq
October 17, 2002 - October 23, 2002
Hi All,
Get one of Bob Archer's wingtip Marker Beacon Antenna kits.
BTW, the marker beacon antenna NEEDS to be a poor antenna. Something that
"works" and does not do more than just barely "work".
Who wants to receive an outer marker signal miles away from the outer marker?
Just my thoughts.
Jim Ayers
PS Bob Archer's phone number is (310) 316-8796. Give him a call. He loves
to talk antenna's.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Edcarris(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV9-List: Re: posting (To Forward or Not to Forward...) |
Don"t Forward, keep the RV-9 list pure.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
| Subject: | Re: DAR Listing ??? (with apologies to Jim) |
I can understand the frustration of paying $500 for a 2 minute visit & a slip of
paper, especially if you had to wait weeks or months for the appointment. Maybe
it would feel better if you thought of it as a doctor visit.
OK,OK, I'm joking. Sort of.
The truth is, at the few FSDO's still willing to do inspections you would have
likely gotten the same treatment, but your (and my) tax money would have footed
the bill. As things now stand, many FAA inspectors consider the 'inspection' a
paperwork check and have no interest in checking the plane for safe workmanship.
The FAA is shifting responsibility for safety almost totally to the
builder/owner. Consider the latest version of homebuilt operating limitations,
which allow the owner to make major alterations to a homebuilt, place it in
'phase one' testing with a logbook entry, fly 5 hours of test time and restore
the plane to normal operational status again with another logbook entry.
In my view, it's a logical conclusion that the DAR is following standard FAA
procedures. Our real complaint should be to FAA management and our
congressmen/senators for allowing inspectors to ignore their duties to perform
services that we as taxpayers have already paid for.
Charlie
Disclaimer: The first paragraph is intended to be funny. If you must flame,
please flame me privately without wasting list bandwidth.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gordon or Marge Comfort" <gcomfo(at)tc3net.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Manual Trim Slop |
Subject: Re: RV-List: Manual Trim Slop
> Interesting that you bring this up Paul, I have noticed that my manual
trim
> cable, not yet installed, seems to have about a half to three quarters of
a
> turn of slop (dead band) when I am playing with it on the bench. Does
anyone
> know if this is normal or should I see about getting another one from
Van's
> before I install it?
>
> Harry Crosby
> Pleasanton, California
> RV-6, electrical stuff
Harry: It would be interesting to know how much slop is present when the
cable is flexed to approximate the curves when it is installed. One could
lay the cable out on the floor or a large bench and weight it down in a "S"
curve and then measure the lost motion. My perception is that when
straight, the system shows very little loss. But when curved, the clearance
between the cable and its housing presents itself as lost motion. At least
that is what it seems like on my -4. I suspect that the highest quality
cables display less of it.
Gordon Comfort
N363GC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
| Subject: | Fuel pickup tube safetywire |
>
> I am working on fuel tanks on my RV-7. In installing the fuel pickup
> tube shouldn't the blue coupling nut be safety wired? Seems
> like an a
> lot of things we safety wired on military aircraft aren't
> safety wired
> on Experimental aircraft, or at least Van's aircraft.
>
Just gobber up the fitting with pro-seal after tightening. I did this
both inside and out on the fuel fittings/nuts/etc.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 215 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel pickup tube safetywire |
Don't believe B-nuts need any safetying.
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
Always looking for articles for the Experimenter
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Eberhart" <newtech(at)newtech.com>
Subject: RV-List: Fuel pickup tube safetywire
>
> I am working on fuel tanks on my RV-7. In installing the fuel pickup
> tube shouldn't the blue coupling nut be safety wired? Seems like an a
> lot of things we safety wired on military aircraft aren't safety wired
> on Experimental aircraft, or at least Van's aircraft.
>
> Didn't find anything in the archives.
>
> Steve Eberhart
> RV-7, working on fuel tanks
> Old Air Force instrument systems technician
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV9-List: Aux Fuel |
In a message dated 10/17/02 6:06:12 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
Ed_Cole(at)maximhq.com writes:
> Scott,
> it should be one Hell of a fire if you have to do an emergency
> off-field landing and rupture the tank.
>
> Best case is that you leave a trail of underwear and t-shirts !
>
I was wondering if you had retractable gear, or what about reputering your
wing tanks?.....but just in case I designed a fuel dump in case of
emergencies. Now let's hear from the EPA
Scott
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV9-List: Aux Fuel |
In a message dated 10/17/02 8:38:15 PM Eastern Daylight Time, rv7(at)b4.ca
writes:
> I've been thinking about this for my -7 as well, but would add true
> "drop" capability. In the event of an emergency, you're right, I
> wouldn't want it down there either. Some brightly marked release handle
> in a location where you wouldn't kick it by accident would be a good thing.
>
It is not a true drop tank. can only be attached and removed on the ground (
for safety) it does have a fuel dump feature in case of an emergency landing.
Scott
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel pickup tube safetywire |
WHY? Why gobber up anything? Use the fittings as dry as designed. If they
are properly supported, there shouldn't be any problem. Check most any
military or commercial plane, they don't use anything. IF you are ANAL use
some torque seal so you can see if they move at all. Torque seal also is
useful if it is placed on a fitting, nut, or bolt head after you have done
the final fastening.
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
Always looking for articles for the Experimenter
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Fuel pickup tube safetywire
>
> >
> > I am working on fuel tanks on my RV-7. In installing the fuel pickup
> > tube shouldn't the blue coupling nut be safety wired? Seems
> > like an a
> > lot of things we safety wired on military aircraft aren't
> > safety wired
> > on Experimental aircraft, or at least Van's aircraft.
> >
>
> Just gobber up the fitting with pro-seal after tightening. I did this
> both inside and out on the fuel fittings/nuts/etc.
>
> Alex Peterson
> Maple Grove, MN
> RV6-A N66AP 215 hours
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Newsted" <fcs(at)jlc.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV9-List: Aux Fuel link |
Anyone thinking of adding tanks to their wing, would do well to read Vans
article on this very subject in a recent RVator. Sorry I don't recall which
issue, perhaps someone else has it handy. I'm reading all sorts of direct
contradictions of the words from the man who designed the plane. He wrote this
article for good reason. While I have to admire the creative ways people find
for stuffing fuel in every pocket they can fill, I'd wait to see how these birds
actually fly (in turbulence) before joining the flock. Of all the dangerous
mods you can cook up, this has got to be near the top of the list.
My two cents anyway...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Newsted" <fcs(at)jlc.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV9-List: parking brake |
I went with the basic Matco parking brake for here on the windy east coast. I
fab'ed a sturdy bracket to replace the hose-to-firewall bracket. Realizing how
discouraging a failure of this baby would be (no steering, or locked wheels!),
I
took extra care to create a cable attachment that will withstand a gorilla at
the helm. The only thing I changed from the photo ref'ed below, is I switched
to 45-degree fittings to ease the routing of the metal lines. I've tugged on
this thing a whole bunch of times and it works smoothly.
http://www.jlc.net/~fcs/images/fuselage/f_brkbkt1.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel pickup tube safetywire |
Steve Eberhart wrote:
>
>
> I am working on fuel tanks on my RV-7. In installing the fuel pickup
> tube shouldn't the blue coupling nut be safety wired? Seems like an a
> lot of things we safety wired on military aircraft aren't safety wired
> on Experimental aircraft, or at least Van's aircraft.
>
> Didn't find anything in the archives.
>
> Steve Eberhart
> RV-7, working on fuel tanks
> Old Air Force instrument systems technician
>
>
Steve you are the manufacturer you can do it anyway you would like to.
If you do not feel comfortable with it not being safty wired then
find a way to do it.
Jerry
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV9-List: Aux Fuel |
| From: | Tom Lutgring <tlutgring(at)juno.com> |
Rob, sounds like a hell of an idea.... I'll bet Tom Ridge (homeland
defense) would be really interested in a homebuilt with "bomb" dropping
capability, in this post 9/11 era.
Tom, RV-9A (36 gal) fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Bristol <bj034(at)lafn.org> |
| Subject: | Re: RV9-List: Aux Fuel |
John,
There was some talk about aux fuel but it was on the RV list not the RV9 list.
Also the folks that are considering drop tanks might want to check with the feds.
The last I heard was that they arent even legal on an actual military plane (WWII
type) they had to be safety wired so they couldn't be dropped. And, even if
that's not so, I think maybe the FBI might want to talk to you about it!
8
)
Dave -6 So Cal (I don't even have the range of my stock tanks!)
John Williams wrote:
>
> Keith: Good question. There was a chap on about ten days ago who is doing
> a Mazda rotary in an RV-9, and who alluded to having added extra fuel. This
> so piqued my interest that I asked him to share how he did it with me.
> Haven't heard from him since! Musta' been something I said!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Karie Daniel" <karied4(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | RV-7A Empennage Jig Question |
The plans for the 7A don't call for building a jig for the empennage (it's the
same as a RV-9 empennage also) and I was pretty jazzed about not having to build
one at first. Now that I'm up to my elbows in this I really would like to build
a jig to make sure everything is straight before I start riveting.
I went to Home Depot today and bought some 4x4's and built what looks like a jig
from most RV-6 web sites I've seen but I'm not sure how to positively make sure
the jig is plumb. Anyone have any jig plans or advice so that I make sure
the jig is straight?
BTW... If you have an RV web site with pictures of your building progress you have
no idea how valuable it is to new builders like myself. Thank you! I hope
to have a site of my own up soon.
Karie Daniel
Maple Valley, WA.
RV-7A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mark Schrimmer <mschrimmer(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV9-List: parking brake |
on 10/17/02 6:07 PM, Gary Newsted at fcs(at)jlc.net wrote:
> --> RV9-List message posted by: "Gary Newsted"
>
> I went with the basic Matco parking brake for here on the windy east coast.
I
> fab'ed a sturdy bracket to replace the hose-to-firewall bracket.
Gary,
Cool bracket! Does it go in the exact same place as the hose-to-firewall
bracket? What did you use for the cable? Where do you plan to mount the
handle at the other end of the cable?
Thanks,
Mark Schrimmer
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paulbaird(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: DAR - Compensation? |
I paid $250 in Ohio
Paul
90355
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV9-List: Aux Fuel |
In a message dated 10/17/02 9:52:04 PM Eastern Daylight Time, bj034(at)lafn.org
writes:
>
> There was some talk about aux fuel but it was on the RV list not the RV9
> list.
> Also the folks that are considering drop tanks might want to check with the
> feds.
> The last I heard was that they arent even legal on an actual military plane
> (WWII
> type) they had to be safety wired so they couldn't be dropped. And, even if
> that's not so, I think maybe the FBI might want to talk to you about it!
> 8
>
>
Get a life I think we are all grown-ups. i don't think that anyone in their
right mind would utilize a "real" drop tank that terminology was just used to
describe how the aux tank looked, not operated.
Scott Morrow
RV-6A 90 %
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV9-List: Aux Fuel |
In a message dated 10/17/02 9:11:46 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
tlutgring(at)juno.com writes:
>
> Rob, sounds like a hell of an idea.... I'll bet Tom Ridge (homeland
> defense) would be really interested in a homebuilt with "bomb" dropping
> capability, in this post 9/11 era.
>
> Tom, RV-9A (36 gal) fuselage
>
Again get a life... The aux tank described was not a "drop" tank just looked
like one.
Scott Morrow
RV-6A
90%
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV9-List: Aux Fuel |
In a message dated 10/17/02 9:02:16 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
jsflyrv(at)earthlink.net writes:
> I heard that you cannot have inflight drop tanks on your airplane if you are
> not
> military.
>
You ought to read my response again. This is not a drop tank , but just looks
like one.
Scott Morrow
RV-6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | Fuel pickup tube safetywire |
Following the construction video, I covered the area you are concerned
about with proseal.
-
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> Steve Eberhart
> Sent: Thursday, October 17, 2002 5:41 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Fuel pickup tube safetywire
>
>
>
> I am working on fuel tanks on my RV-7. In installing the fuel pickup
> tube shouldn't the blue coupling nut be safety wired? Seems
> like an a
> lot of things we safety wired on military aircraft aren't
> safety wired
> on Experimental aircraft, or at least Van's aircraft.
>
> Didn't find anything in the archives.
>
> Steve Eberhart
> RV-7, working on fuel tanks
> Old Air Force instrument systems technician
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Haywire" <haywire(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | RE: RV9-List: Aux Fuel |
Hi John;
>
> --> RV9-List message posted by: "John Williams"
>
> Keith: Good question. There was a chap on about ten days ago
> who is doing
> a Mazda rotary in an RV-9, and who alluded to having added extra
> fuel. This
> so piqued my interest that I asked him to share how he did it with me.
> Haven't heard from him since! Musta' been something I said!
>
This would have been me, but I don't recall an e-mail from you. I try to
answer all e-mails promptly, so maybe I accidentally deleted it or just
didn't receive it. I see that someone has already given you my web address.
Most of the info you want can be found there. I will one day finish writing
the procedure for building the OB tanks. After you look over the info on my
site if you have any further questions, don't hesitate to e-mail me.
> I don't have my wing kit yet, nor the large drawings, but it sure looks to
> me like you could switch the position of the tank outboard
> end-ribs with the
> adjacent wing nose ribs, and move the filler cap outboard to the next
> chamber, and pick up about two gallons (estimated) capacity on
I wouldn't go with this approach as you would either have to make a new
longer IB leading edge skin or you would have a major seam on your tank.
Easier to just convert the OB leading edge as a separate tank.
>
> From an aerodynamic standpoint, engineers say that extra fuel
> carried as far
> outboard as possible is beneficial to the wing spar with regard to the
> bending moments and lessens stress on the spar.
This is true as it improves span loading as well as stability.
Unfortunately it also reduces spin recovery, but this should never be a
problem with proper flight management.
Hope this helps
S. Todd Bartrim
Turbo 13B rotary powered
RV-9endurance (FWF)
C-FSTB
http://www3.telus.net/haywire/RV-9/C-FSTB.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Haywire" <haywire(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | RE: RV9-List: Aux Fuel link |
> --> RV9-List message posted by: "Gary Newsted"
>
> Anyone thinking of adding tanks to their wing, would do well to read Vans
> article on this very subject in a recent RVator. Sorry I don't
> recall which
> issue, perhaps someone else has it handy. I'm reading all sorts
> of direct
> contradictions of the words from the man who designed the plane.
> He wrote this
> article for good reason. While I have to admire the creative
> ways people find
> for stuffing fuel in every pocket they can fill, I'd wait to see
> how these birds
> actually fly (in turbulence) before joining the flock. Of all
> the dangerous
> mods you can cook up, this has got to be near the top of the list.
> My two cents anyway...
Hi Gary;
This isn't something I just came up with on a whim. It took alot of careful
planning & consideration, not just to build it correctly but also to have a
plan to use it correctly. Just as building a mod like this is not for the
faint of heart, neither is flying over vast distances of water and
inhospitable terrain.
Some people are most comfortable flying in areas where you couldn't throw
a
rock without hitting a suitable place to land, equipped with fuel pumps.
Others are drawn to the wilder, rugged corners of this rock we call earth.
Fortunately those areas have no fuel service so it keeps out the riff raff.
You must remember that Van is subject to liability issues so it is not
in
his interest to encourage anyone to modify his design. However there is at
least one of his employees that has been encouraging in his remarks about my
fuel mods. Although he always chooses his words carefully, implying that he
his in no way endorsing it.
I recently acquired 8 hrs flight time in an RV-6 with OB leading edges
tanks, very similar to mine. This plane has been flying for more than 10
years, travelling from the Canadian arctic to South America (not in one
trip'-)) and it has done it very well. While he was being told that he
couldn't do it, he didn't hear them because he was busy doing it.
Now, I'm not saying that anyone should do this. It takes allot of careful
thought and I would encourage anyone considering this to think it through
fully, asking yourself "do I really need that much?"; "will I really use
it?" & most importantly "can I do this? - safely?" But I certainly would
never discourage anyone based upon my own personal limits or the liability
concerns of it's designer.
Now I'm not saying that I won't ever have an accident caused by this, but
I
have done my best to anticipate any problems. I do know that I will die. I
just don't know how or where, but I'm sure not going to sit and wait for it.
All Men Dream: But Not Equally
Those Who Dream By Night In The Dusty Recesses Of Their Minds Wake To Find
That It Was Vanity:
But The Dreamers Of The Day Are Dangerous Men, For They May Act Their
Dreams With Open Eyes To Make It Possible T.E. Lawrence
S. Todd Bartrim
Turbo 13B rotary powered
RV-9endurance (FWF)
C-FSTB
http://www3.telus.net/haywire/RV-9/C-FSTB.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club" <sisson(at)mcleodusa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV9-List: Aux Fuel |
Smcm75(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> In a message dated 10/17/02 8:38:15 PM Eastern Daylight Time, rv7(at)b4.ca
> writes:
>
> > I've been thinking about this for my -7 as well, but would add true
> > "drop" capability. In the event of an emergency, you're right, I
> > wouldn't want it down there either. Some brightly marked release handle
> > in a location where you wouldn't kick it by accident would be a good thing.
> >
>
> It is not a true drop tank. can only be attached and removed on the ground (
> for safety) it does have a fuel dump feature in case of an emergency landing.
>
> Scott
>
Belly tanks have been used on Pitt's for more than a quarter century. They are
not drop tanks, as such, They can only be removed manually from the ground. There
is one in my hangar now, belongs to a friend. He uses it all the time for long
ferry to contests. I have one out in my garage that needs finish welding on. They
hold about 16 .5 gallons as we make them. I have flown his on a ferry back from
Dennison, TX to Central IL. In the air I couldnt tell it was on the plane. It
affected airspeed and handling little if any. When in flight we burn it out
first, Then go to the inside tank. When landing with it on, it is hardly
noticeable. Taxi-ing and takeoffs are something else. With his plane( was Bob
Herendeen's Pitt's that he flew in Oshkosh), I taxied it slow and very careful,
tool off almost 3 point to get in air soon as possible, then it was ok. Loaded
with fuel, the CG point is moved very downward and with the extra 100 lbs, it
affects tracking and is very squirrelly for a plane that is normally a pussycat.
A lot of guys used two of them, they would make one end slip off from one and
they would stuff clothes in it, rolled in a long cigar roll.
As for an RV, I am thinking of aux fuel, but I will probably not go with a belly
tank.
Phil
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com> |
| Subject: | Fuel pickup tube safetywire |
Cy is right here. B nuts don't technically "have" to be safetied. Many B
nuts on high pressure hydraulic systems on 747's, 757's, DC-10's, etc.. are
not saftied, and they are operating at thousands of PSI!
If you really want, you can buy B nuts which have a hole drilled in it for
safety. Usually these are only used on AN-10 and larger lines. Just my
experience with the jet-liners.
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Cy Galley
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel pickup tube safetywire
Don't believe B-nuts need any safetying.
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
Always looking for articles for the Experimenter
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Eberhart" <newtech(at)newtech.com>
Subject: RV-List: Fuel pickup tube safetywire
>
> I am working on fuel tanks on my RV-7. In installing the fuel pickup
> tube shouldn't the blue coupling nut be safety wired? Seems like an a
> lot of things we safety wired on military aircraft aren't safety wired
> on Experimental aircraft, or at least Van's aircraft.
>
> Didn't find anything in the archives.
>
> Steve Eberhart
> RV-7, working on fuel tanks
> Old Air Force instrument systems technician
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Newsted" <fcs(at)jlc.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV9-List: parking brake |
> Cool bracket! Does it go in the exact same place as the hose-to-firewall
> bracket?
Yep. I added another row of rivets along with the existing ones. Used the old
bracket as a pattern for the new one. It's super strong. The cable is a
standard locking tee-handle cable from AC Spruce, cut down to about 24" long.
The swivel end is just a piece of hex steel stock about 1" long. I drilled it
part way through so the cable shell fits into it, then a smaller center hole for
the wire to pass through. The wire actually passes through a hole in the clevis
pin which is just floating in the assembly. Two pointed set-screws clamp the
cable shell into place. There's a small "Z" shaped bracket that serves to
prevent the valve lever from going over-center. The valve is mounted at a
slight downward angle to reduce cable bend and make it work smooth. Couldn't
be happier with it!
> Where do you plan to mount the handle at the other end of the cable?
I made a small rounded "A" shaped bracket out of angle stock that is bolted to
the vertical side rib where the fuel vent lines run (sorry I don't have the part
number, those plans were put away long ago). It's just far enough away from
the pilot so you have to reach for it and won't accidentally kick it or hit your
knee on it.
Anyway, if you go with the Matco valve, this is one proven way to mount the
sucker.
Steering by brakes always struck me as a wierd concept, but it's time proven.
Adding a parking brake into your steering system is equally wierd, but it beats
running after your plane! It's windy around here.
Gary
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Newsted" <fcs(at)jlc.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV9-List: Aux Fuel |
> Get a life I think we are all grown-ups.
Hey, be nice. I got a chuckle out of that reply. Although the keywords were
certain to light up a few monitors down in Jersey if you know what I mean.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James E. Clark" <jclark(at)conterra.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV9-List: Aux Fuel |
Hmmm ...
Is this right behind the exhausts? (that sometimes spit fire)???? Or do I
have the wrong image in mind?.
Why not put the tank in the baggage compartment given that you are willing
to make the trade-off. From a weight standpoint you could have about the
same capacity.
Of course you would have a bit of a problem if there was an off-field
landing and it ruptured. But that's another matter altogether.
James
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Smcm75(at)aol.com
> Sent: Thursday, October 17, 2002 5:33 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: RV9-List: Aux Fuel
>
>
> I am developing an external "drop tank/cargo pod" that would have
> only about
> a 2 lb penalty (attach points and plumbing) when the tank is not
> attached.
> The tank will have a capacity of approx. 18 gal and will attach directly
> under the belly onto the front and rear spar. A couple of pins
> will make for
> easy attach detach. The point is when you need extra fuel you can put the
> tank on, When you need extra baggage capacity you can put the
> baggage pod on.
> when you don't need either you can remove them and they is literally no
> weight or drag penalty. This tank/pod will fit RV-6, RV-6A, RV-7, RV-7A,
> RV-8, RV-8A. This thing looks neat (WW II style) and it is right on the
> center of gravity.
>
> Scott Morrow
> RV-6A 90%
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Newsted" <fcs(at)jlc.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV9-List: Aux Fuel link |
Todd, I appreciate experimentation and innovation as much as anyone, but I'll
stand by my statement that anyone considering doing this would do well to
witness a prior example first (in turbulence). Regardless of any liability
issues Van may have, I don't believe for one second that he would intentionally
lie about the mathematics of his wing design. And since I love quotes, and you
offered such a nice one, let me add to it.
"Even this brief history of aviation is already littered with failed experiments
and experimenters." [Thomas Edison].
You're a bit further on the edge than I would dare to be, but I sincerely wish
you good flying and safe landings.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Bristol <bj034(at)lafn.org> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-7A Empennage Jig Question |
Karie,
The jig doesn't have to be plumb, it's the part that has to be plumb. The jig is
only there to hold the part in the position that you put it. Just make it as
straight as practical and be sure that it doesn't move.
Also, beware, there are those on the list that don't think that jigs are of any
use!
Dave -6 So Cal
Karie Daniel wrote:
>
> The plans for the 7A don't call for building a jig for the empennage (it's the
same as a RV-9 empennage also) and I was pretty jazzed about not having to build
one at first. Now that I'm up to my elbows in this I really would like to
build a jig to make sure everything is straight before I start riveting.
>
> I went to Home Depot today and bought some 4x4's and built what looks like a
jig from most RV-6 web sites I've seen but I'm not sure how to positively make
sure the jig is plumb. Anyone have any jig plans or advice so that I make sure
the jig is straight?
>
> BTW... If you have an RV web site with pictures of your building progress you
have no idea how valuable it is to new builders like myself. Thank you! I hope
to have a site of my own up soon.
>
> Karie Daniel
>
> Maple Valley, WA.
>
> RV-7A
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rv4joe(at)sofnet.com |
| Subject: | RV4 Project for Sale |
Have a 4 project partially completed. Hoped to finish it,
but life situation changed. If interested, it is drop me a
line here or at rv4joe(at)sofnet.com. Located in southwest MO.
email pics on request.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Oke <wjoke(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-7A Empennage Jig Question |
Hi;
From my experience (assembling a RV-6A prepunched tail kit two years ago)
there is no need to put much time and effort into a tail jig. Hmm, let's
rephrase that - I feel the time and effort put into a fancy tail jig are
probably better spent elsewhere...
The prepunched skins and spar effectively take care of any warping or twist.
The one area where some care is needed is to make sure the stabilizer aft
spar is kept straight. I used a 2 x 6 on edge with four metal hardware store
angle brackets drilled for 3/16" bolts that picked up the elevator hinge
brackets. I used a piece of stretched nylon monofilament fishline to keep
the 3/16 holes in the brackets a straight line. The 2 x 6 wasn't that
straight so I used some note paper shims between the brackets and the 2 x 6
to keep the bolt holes line up vertically.
Once the above is taken care of, the other role of the jig is to hold the
parts in a convenient position for riveting. I added a couple of 2 x 6 cross
pieces on the bottom to support the 2 x 6 and then a light 2 x 2 vertical in
the centre to clamp the centre part of the forward spar to so the whole
thing wouldn't flop over.
The whole jig (fixture might be a better word) was reasonably portable and
could be moved around which is an advantage compared to a massive jig
solidly bolted to the floor or whatever.
Jim Oke
Winnipeg, MB
RV-3
RV-6A (painting)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Karie Daniel" <karied4(at)attbi.com>
Subject: RV-List: RV-7A Empennage Jig Question
>
> The plans for the 7A don't call for building a jig for the empennage (it's
the same as a RV-9 empennage also) and I was pretty jazzed about not having
to build one at first. Now that I'm up to my elbows in this I really would
like to build a jig to make sure everything is straight before I start
riveting.
>
> I went to Home Depot today and bought some 4x4's and built what looks like
a jig from most RV-6 web sites I've seen but I'm not sure how to positively
make sure the jig is plumb. Anyone have any jig plans or advice so that I
make sure the jig is straight?
>
> BTW... If you have an RV web site with pictures of your building progress
you have no idea how valuable it is to new builders like myself. Thank you!
I hope to have a site of my own up soon.
>
> Karie Daniel
>
> Maple Valley, WA.
>
> RV-7A
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Patrick Kelley" <webmaster(at)flion.com> |
| Subject: | RV-7A Empennage Jig Question |
You can get the fixture plumb enough with a regular level; don't be a
fanatic about it. As long as the parts are held immobile in good
alignment the jig itself could be as crooked as Bill Clinton. My
website has a diagram of a way-over-engineered jig I built so I could
work indoors (www.flion.com); feel free to look it over and adapt as
needed.
By the way, I added a couple of pictures of moving to the site - not
enough to go look if you've viewed it recently - and my fuselage kit has
arrived so I hope to have more content added around Christmas time. I
should invest in a digicam like Dan Checkowith, but then I'd never get
anything done what with fiddling with the site. I agree, tho,
that the builder's sites are a great source of inspiration and some
original ideas.
Pat Kelley - RV-6A - fuselage bulkheads nearly ready for primer and
rivet
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Karie Daniel
Subject: RV-List: RV-7A Empennage Jig Question
The plans for the 7A don't call for building a jig for the empennage
(it's the same as a RV-9 empennage also) and I was pretty jazzed about
not having to build one at first. Now that I'm up to my elbows in this I
really would like to build a jig to make sure everything is straight
before I start riveting.
I went to Home Depot today and bought some 4x4's and built what looks
like a jig from most RV-6 web sites I've seen but I'm not sure how to
positively make sure the jig is plumb. Anyone have any jig plans or
advice so that I make sure the jig is straight?
BTW... If you have an RV web site with pictures of your building
progress you have no idea how valuable it is to new builders like
myself. Thank you! I hope to have a site of my own up soon.
Karie Daniel
Maple Valley, WA.
RV-7A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-7A Empennage Jig Question |
Hi Karie,
Try this:
Assuming that you have the basic pieces to assemble the typical 'H' shaped
jig, use a plumb bob to get the two upright 4X4s (posts) straight
vertically. This is done buy hanging the plumb bob along side the 4x4s on
two adjacent sides of each post.
When these posts are squared up and fixed firmly in place a wire will be
strung tightly between the two posts. Some .032 stainless steel tie wire
will do the job. To do this drill small diameter holes through the centers
of the posts so that the wire will be on a center line between the posts. An
alternate choice would be some screw eyes. You can use a hardware store
turnbuckle to tighten the wire.
Make a small 'S' hook that will slide along the length of the tightened
wire. To this 'S' hook the plumb bob will be adjusted and tied so that it
hangs almost touching the crossbar. The point of the plumb bob should now be
very nearly if not exactly centered on the crossbar, close to center is good
enough. After the next step the overhead wire and the centerline 'must' be
in line with each other.
Move the plumb bob to each end of the wire. After the plumb bob has stopped
moving mark a dot on the crossbar at the pointed end of the plumb bob. Using
the marks at the center of each end of the cross bar stretch a chalk line, a
thread or a long straight edge to draw the base centerline. This line will
be used to line up the elevator mount centers.
You now have the basic structure in place for final assembly of your
stabilizers.
You will need an upright to one side of the crossbar at the center. This
along with some C clamps or what have you will be used to hold the stab
upright and centered. By changing the length of the plumb bob line and
sliding it back and forth you can be sure all is true and square as assembly
goes forward. I used three plumb bobs on mine, one stayed in the center
throughout assembly, the other two were moved back and forth as needed.
I hope this description works for you or at least helps get you on the right
track.
Have fun building,
Jim in Kelowna
------ Original Message -----
From: "Karie Daniel" <karied4(at)attbi.com>
Subject: RV-List: RV-7A Empennage Jig Question
>
> The plans for the 7A don't call for building a jig for the empennage (it's
the same as a RV-9 empennage also) and I was pretty jazzed about not having
to build one at first. Now that I'm up to my elbows in this I really would
like to build a jig to make sure everything is straight before I start
riveting.
>
> I went to Home Depot today and bought some 4x4's and built what looks like
a jig from most RV-6 web sites I've seen but I'm not sure how to positively
make sure the jig is plumb. Anyone have any jig plans or advice so that I
make sure the jig is straight?
>
> BTW... If you have an RV web site with pictures of your building progress
you have no idea how valuable it is to new builders like myself. Thank you!
I hope to have a site of my own up soon.
>
> Karie Daniel
>
> Maple Valley, WA.
>
> RV-7A
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: DAR - Compensation? |
Mine was $500 which he explained by saying "this also includes your
repairman's certificate ".
Len Leggette RV-8A
N901LL (res)
Greensboro, N.C.
Ready to Fly !!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Textor" <jack(at)iajobs.com> |
| Subject: | Fuel pickup tube safetywire |
Steve,
I used proseal on mine
Steve Eberhart wrote:
>
>
> I am working on fuel tanks on my RV-7. In installing the fuel pickup
> tube shouldn't the blue coupling nut be safety wired? Seems like an a
> lot of things we safety wired on military aircraft aren't safety wired
> on Experimental aircraft, or at least Van's aircraft.
>
> Didn't find anything in the archives.
>
> Steve Eberhart
> RV-7, working on fuel tanks
> Old Air Force instrument systems technician
>
>
Steve you are the manufacturer you can do it anyway you would like to.
If you do not feel comfortable with it not being safty wired then
find a way to do it.
Jerry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net> |
| Subject: | Fuel pickup tube safetywire |
> WHY? Why gobber up anything? Use the fittings as dry as
> designed. If they are properly supported, there shouldn't be
> any problem. Check most any military or commercial plane,
> they don't use anything. IF you are ANAL use some torque seal
> so you can see if they move at all. Torque seal also is
> useful if it is placed on a fitting, nut, or bolt head after
> you have done the final fastening.
When I spoke of gobbering up the fitting, I was thinking specifically of
the 90 degree fitting in an inverted fuel setup (the 90 degree part of
the fitting is inside the tank, with a nut on the outside of the tank to
hold it in place). The potential problem is with the bulkhead fitting
rotating when the line from the fuselage is tightened. This bulkhead
fitting has no anti-rotate protection, and it must seal.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 215 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Huft" <rv8tor(at)lazy8.net> |
Hello listers
So far, I have only received 4 pictures of RVs. None of these are
nosedraggers. C'mon, where is your pride?
Really, this could be a good resource. For those planning a paint job. For
those trying to remember what someone's airplane looks like. Those curious
about one of their list friends.
Also, it is a nice diversion on a Saturday am when the weather is stinky.
My favorite page of skywagons is the Alaska Wing
http://www.lazy8.net/akwing.htm
I am sure we RVers can do better. After all, we BUILT the things!
Follow the link on this page to view the pics.
http://www.lazy8.net/rv8.html
Send me pics at webmaster(at)lazy8.net I will run them through Photoshop to
compress etc.
John Huft, Pagosa Springs, CO
RV8 "Gypsy Tailwind" 2.6 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Huft" <rv8tor(at)lazy8.net> |
| Subject: | DAR - Compensation? |
An old friend was my DAR, and so I may have gotten a reduced price. He
stopped on the way from his home in Denver, travelling to Phoenix to attend
a DAR class required every two years. It is a three day class, and he pays
all his expenses, plus $125/day for the class. He is required to attend a
1-day class in Denver on the off years. When you also consider the amount of
liabilty a DAR takes on every time he signs an airplane off, I think the
fees are mostly reasonable.
I do think it is fair to expect him to inspect the airplane. It is good to
have the local experts do it too. I had three inspectors, each caught things
the others didn't. On my own final-final inspection before flight, I caught
some more.
Paperwork only reminds me of annual inspections I have heard of, where the
real good one means you send him a picture of the airplane! Just like the
"in the bar, BFR" I guess.
John Huft
Pagosa Springs,CO
RV8
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Lenleg(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: DAR - Compensation?
Mine was $500 which he explained by saying "this also includes your
repairman's certificate ".
Len Leggette RV-8A
N901LL (res)
Greensboro, N.C.
Ready to Fly !!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
John Huft wrote:
>
>
> Hello listers
>
> So far, I have only received 4 pictures of RVs. None of these are
> nosedraggers. C'mon, where is your pride?
>
> Really, this could be a good resource. For those planning a paint job. For
> those trying to remember what someone's airplane looks like. Those curious
> about one of their list friends.
> Also, it is a nice diversion on a Saturday am when the weather is stinky.
>
> My favorite page of skywagons is the Alaska Wing
> http://www.lazy8.net/akwing.htm
>
> I am sure we RVers can do better. After all, we BUILT the things!
>
> Follow the link on this page to view the pics.
> http://www.lazy8.net/rv8.html
>
> Send me pics at webmaster(at)lazy8.net I will run them through Photoshop to
> compress etc.
>
> John Huft, Pagosa Springs, CO
> RV8 "Gypsy Tailwind" 2.6 hours
Another RV photo album is located here:
http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal/album_1.html
It is a bit dated since you will notice there are no RV9A or RV-7
photos. Hopefully John's album will get many great new airplanes for us
to view.
Sam Buchanan
"The RV Journal" http://thervjournal.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel pickup tube safetywire |
Sorry, I thought you were applying something to make the tube seal.
Bulkhead sealing is another matter.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)usjet.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Fuel pickup tube safetywire
>
>
> > WHY? Why gobber up anything? Use the fittings as dry as
> > designed. If they are properly supported, there shouldn't be
> > any problem. Check most any military or commercial plane,
> > they don't use anything. IF you are ANAL use some torque seal
> > so you can see if they move at all. Torque seal also is
> > useful if it is placed on a fitting, nut, or bolt head after
> > you have done the final fastening.
>
>
> When I spoke of gobbering up the fitting, I was thinking specifically of
> the 90 degree fitting in an inverted fuel setup (the 90 degree part of
> the fitting is inside the tank, with a nut on the outside of the tank to
> hold it in place). The potential problem is with the bulkhead fitting
> rotating when the line from the fuselage is tightened. This bulkhead
> fitting has no anti-rotate protection, and it must seal.
>
> Alex Peterson
> Maple Grove, MN
> RV6-A N66AP 215 hours
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Imfairings(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List: RV6-N664SB FLIES--Finally!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! |
Stein,
Congrats on the first flight! If the locals are any indication, that face
controtion is going to be there for weeks and will return frequently.
Bob
Fairings-Etc.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Williams" <frate.dawg(at)attglobal.net> |
| Subject: | RE: RV9-List: Aux Fuel |
Todd: Thanx. I hadn't thought of that, but as I said, I don't have the
wing kit yet, nor anything to look at other than the preview plans
(which, at my advanced age, are damned hard to see, let alone read!)
Regards, John
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv9-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Haywire
Subject: RE: RV9-List: Aux Fuel
--> RV9-List message posted by: "Haywire"
Hi John;
>
> --> RV9-List message posted by: "John Williams"
>
> Keith: Good question. There was a chap on about ten days ago
> who is doing
> a Mazda rotary in an RV-9, and who alluded to having added extra
> fuel. This
> so piqued my interest that I asked him to share how he did it with me.
> Haven't heard from him since! Musta' been something I said!
>
This would have been me, but I don't recall an e-mail from you.
I try to
answer all e-mails promptly, so maybe I accidentally deleted it or just
didn't receive it. I see that someone has already given you my web
address.
Most of the info you want can be found there. I will one day finish
writing
the procedure for building the OB tanks. After you look over the info on
my
site if you have any further questions, don't hesitate to e-mail me.
> I don't have my wing kit yet, nor the large drawings, but it sure
looks to
> me like you could switch the position of the tank outboard
> end-ribs with the
> adjacent wing nose ribs, and move the filler cap outboard to the next
> chamber, and pick up about two gallons (estimated) capacity on
I wouldn't go with this approach as you would either have to
make a new
longer IB leading edge skin or you would have a major seam on your tank.
Easier to just convert the OB leading edge as a separate tank.
>
> From an aerodynamic standpoint, engineers say that extra fuel
> carried as far
> outboard as possible is beneficial to the wing spar with regard to the
> bending moments and lessens stress on the spar.
This is true as it improves span loading as well as stability.
Unfortunately it also reduces spin recovery, but this should never be a
problem with proper flight management.
Hope this helps
S. Todd Bartrim
Turbo 13B rotary powered
RV-9endurance (FWF)
C-FSTB
http://www3.telus.net/haywire/RV-9/C-FSTB.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
| Subject: | Re: DAR - Compensation? |
You guys paying $500 should really look into finding a new DAR next time.
Mine was $200, and included the repairman's certificate, 50 miles of driving
(each way), and a return inspection prior to Phase 2.
Paul Besing
RV-6A Sold (Waiting on the RV-10)
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: <Lenleg(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: DAR - Compensation?
>
> Mine was $500 which he explained by saying "this also includes your
> repairman's certificate ".
>
> Len Leggette RV-8A
> N901LL (res)
> Greensboro, N.C.
> Ready to Fly !!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Aircraft Technical Book Company" <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com> |
Personally, I'd prefer the DAR or FAA visit be nothing but 5 minutes of
paperwork. In and out, pay the fee (whatever it is), and be done with it.
It's not that I don't want people looking over my plane. I do!!!! Any
time; any where. Anyone who knows airplanes or RVs are encouraged to go
over my plane with as much criticism as you can find. And the more you
find, the happier I am.
But there is a big difference between that and the DAR. With a friend, any
problems found are in the legal form of recommendations. When the DAR does
it, they are in the form of authority. A friend can't ground me because of
some misplaced placard, or because he doesn't like where my fuel gauges are.
The DAR can, and often will because of the feeling that if he doesn't write
up something, he's not doing his job. That's not safety. That's just
politics.
I understand the intent of the law, and of course we are all obliged to deal
with it. But in the real world all that good intent is lost to the moment.
I'll leave the real inspections to EAA advisors, other RV pilots, and any
assortment of A&Ps. Find me a DAR who will eat a burger and pencil whip my
log. Thats the one I'll hire.
Andy
> I can understand the frustration of paying $500 for a 2 minute visit & a
slip of
> paper, especially if you had to wait weeks or months for the appointment.
Maybe
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com> |
Andy,
Real Nice. However, maybe not the greatest idea to be throwing lines like
that around, makes people wonder...If you'd like to have someone pencil whip
the inspection, then what else.......?????????????
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
RV6, Minneapolis
Flying, (used an "RV" experienced DAR who actually looked at the airplane -
my mistake I guess)!
>>>>"Find me a DAR who will eat a burger and pencil whip my
log. Thats the one I'll hire."N<<<<<
Andy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Geoff Evans" <gwevans(at)attbi.com> |
Regarding the elevator construction on an RV-8...
The instructions say to "bevel the inboard and aft edges of E-713 locally where
E-713 overlaps the spar and rib flanges to provide
a smooth transition between the counterbalance skin and the E-701-R elevator skin."
I can't quite figure out how doing anything to the E-713 (short of removing it)
will provide a smooth transition between it and
the elevator skin.
Does anyone have any suggestions, or perhaps pictures?
Thanks.
-Geoff Evans
RV-8 elevators
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill" <n8wv(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Electric C/S Props |
Anyone have any experience with electric C/S props? I have read about the
MT, but don't know much else...
-Bill
www.vondane.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Calhoun" <roncal(at)earthlink.net> |
I'm with Andy. When I call the FAA or DAR to inspect my plane, I know it is
ready to fly because I have had my A&P and all my builder friends look it
over many times. And lastly, I am the final inspector because I am the pilot
and its my life on the line. The required government inspection only
confirms what I aready know.
Ron Calhoun
RV-4 (test flight soon)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Konrad Werner" <Connywerner(at)wans.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Electric C/S Props |
Bill,
Are you unhappy with your FP Sterba Wood Prop?? Electric CS-Props are
relatively rare and therefore expen$$$ive. You get more bang for the buck on
hydraulic one's (Assuming you have a hollow crank).
Konrad
> Anyone have any experience with electric C/S props? I have read about the
> MT, but don't know much else...
>
> -Bill
> www.vondane.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Camille Hawthorne" <cammie(at)sunvalley.net> |
| Subject: | I need tank dimple dies |
Does anyone have a set of tank dimple dies for sale?
Please respond off list to: cammie(at)sunvalley.net
Camille Hawthorne
RV-7 wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
I guess it depends on the DAR. If they are fair, they will just be another
set of eyes on your plane, which is fine by me. He had a few things that he
wanted me to change. Nothing nitpicky, just a couple of brain farts I had.
He still signed everything off, but attached a contingency list to it.
Basically, he said, "fix this stuff before you fly, but here's your
certificate". I don't mind a DAR pointing things out and finding something
that maybe an EAA tech counselor missed. Just another set of eyes. As long
as it is done in a non-controlling fashion, I don't see a problem with it.
These guys generally are very well experienced people that deserve the
authority of being a DAR. This is why I would be more than happy to have
them review my aircraft thoroughly than just pencil whipping the log.
Paul Besing
RV-6A Sold (Waiting on the RV-10)
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Aircraft Technical Book Company" <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: DAR Listing
>
>
> Personally, I'd prefer the DAR or FAA visit be nothing but 5 minutes of
> paperwork. In and out, pay the fee (whatever it is), and be done with
it.
>
> It's not that I don't want people looking over my plane. I do!!!! Any
> time; any where. Anyone who knows airplanes or RVs are encouraged to go
> over my plane with as much criticism as you can find. And the more you
> find, the happier I am.
>
> But there is a big difference between that and the DAR. With a friend,
any
> problems found are in the legal form of recommendations. When the DAR
does
> it, they are in the form of authority. A friend can't ground me because
of
> some misplaced placard, or because he doesn't like where my fuel gauges
are.
> The DAR can, and often will because of the feeling that if he doesn't
write
> up something, he's not doing his job. That's not safety. That's just
> politics.
>
> I understand the intent of the law, and of course we are all obliged to
deal
> with it. But in the real world all that good intent is lost to the
moment.
>
> I'll leave the real inspections to EAA advisors, other RV pilots, and any
> assortment of A&Ps. Find me a DAR who will eat a burger and pencil whip
my
> log. Thats the one I'll hire.
>
> Andy
>
>
> > I can understand the frustration of paying $500 for a 2 minute visit & a
> slip of
> > paper, especially if you had to wait weeks or months for the
appointment.
> Maybe
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: DAR - Compensation? |
Paul Besing wrote:
>
>
> He does things a little differently. For his own satisfaction, really.
> What he does is signs off a phase 1 inspection. You can't sign off for
> phase 2 until he comes out and does a quick look over the airplane and your
> test flight data. It keeps the builders honest, I guess. It really wasn't
> a burden to me, because he came out to the airport, looked over the test
> flight data and logbook, glanced at the airplane for a few minutes and
> signed the rest off. All without an extra fee. He is just very thorough,
> and lets it get one more check before it's signed off for good.
>
> Paul Besing
> RV-6A Sold (Waiting on the RV-10)
> http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
> Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
> http://www.kitlog.com
I bet the insurance company attornys would have a field day with this
DAR's inspection procedure if an accident occurred btween the initial
signoff and phase two!
I am constantly amazed at how DARs can "interpret" the duties that are
relegated to them via the FARs................
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill" <n8wv(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Hooker seat belt installation |
I have been thinking of putting some hookers in my -8A as well... ;-)
Actually, I was looking at the Simpson harnesses... Has anyone put these in
an -8? How long do they need to be?
I was looking at the Std. Latch & Link setup:
http://www.simpsonraceproducts.com/catalog/restraints/latch.html
-Bill
www.vondane.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dean Pichon" <deanpichon(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Hooker seat belt installation
I have a Hooker 5 point harness in my -4. I don't recall what diameter
bolts are used to attach the harness. Regarding the crotch strap anchor, I
built a triangular tab from .063 steel (4130) with holes the three corners.
Two holes were used to attach the tab to the 2 (top) center spar bolts.
These are the same bolts that hold the bracket to which control tube is
attached. I can't recall whether or not I had to buy longer bolts to to
accept the tab.
Finally, I put a small joggle in the tab (1/4") to place the top of the tab
in the proper location to receive the crotch strap. So far it works well,
though it is one more thing to disassemble to get into the "stick well".
Good luck
Dean Pichon
RV-4
Morgantown, WV
>From: "Mark McGee" <riveter(at)ix.netcom.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: Hooker seat belt installation
>Date: Wed, 16 Oct 2002 18:02:21 -0400
>
>
>I plan on installing Hooker harnesses in my RV-4 and need someone to tell
>me
>the mounting requirements. Specifically, what bolt diameter is used for the
>seat belt and harness attachments? And what type of mounting will the
>crotch
>strap need? I know some builders have just provided a slot for the strap to
>go through. If just a slot, how wide?
>
>Thanks,
>Mark McGee
>RV-4 fuselage, skinning
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Compton" <rdcompton(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Ready-to-install Spinner |
Listers:
Does anyone know of anyone who sells ready-to-install-on-the-airplane
spinner assemblies, specifically polished aluminum ones?
I bought a polished spinner which would mate to the backplate/frontplate
from Van's spinner kit. When I asked about how to go about cutting out the
prop blade holes I was told to use a Dremel. Well, it's pretty thick
material and the cutting was MUCH easier said than done. So, here I sit
with a trashed expensive polished spinner. I don't have the money to keep
buying 'em as I climb the learning curve.
Or, if no one knows of a factory-made assembly, if someone out there is a
"pro" at fabricating spinners please contact me off-list and maybe we can
work something out.
Randy Compton
RV-3A
N84VF
Gulf Breeze, FL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <albert.gardner(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Ready-to-install Spinner |
These guys http://www.sensenich.com/ make a very nice spinner to fit their
props. I got one and I'm happy as a clam. I don't know if they fit any other
props.
Albert Gardner, Yuma, AZ
RV-9A: N872RV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Jory" <rickjory(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Ready-to-install Spinner |
Not that it matters . . . I bought a polished aluminum spinner from George &
Becky Orndorff (sp?) and it fits Van's backplate, etc. Cutting the "cut
out" for the blade (in my case, a Hartzell C/S prop) was easy . . . mainly
because somewhere on the net I got a pattern and used this as a start.
Needless to say, the pattern gets you the rough "size" . . . which I cut
using a Dremmel and cut-off wheel . . . then "final" sizing can be done with
a die grinder and 2" (or 1") scotchbrite wheels (Avery, etc.). The process
is really simple and it is hard to make a mistake. Anyway, don't know a
source for a spinner that is pre-cut for the prop, but what I've explained
above was fairly straightforward. Good luck.
Rick Jory RV8A
----- Original Message -----
From: Randy Compton <rdcompton(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RV-List: Ready-to-install Spinner
>
> Listers:
>
> Does anyone know of anyone who sells ready-to-install-on-the-airplane
> spinner assemblies, specifically polished aluminum ones?
>
> I bought a polished spinner which would mate to the backplate/frontplate
> from Van's spinner kit. When I asked about how to go about cutting out
the
> prop blade holes I was told to use a Dremel. Well, it's pretty thick
> material and the cutting was MUCH easier said than done. So, here I sit
> with a trashed expensive polished spinner. I don't have the money to keep
> buying 'em as I climb the learning curve.
>
> Or, if no one knows of a factory-made assembly, if someone out there is a
> "pro" at fabricating spinners please contact me off-list and maybe we can
> work something out.
>
> Randy Compton
> RV-3A
> N84VF
> Gulf Breeze, FL
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Don Mack" <don(at)dmack.net> |
| Subject: | Cutout for Van's spinner when using Sensenich 72FM series propeller |
I just ran accross this and thought it would be handy for the archives:
On Sensenich's site that have added:
72FM Series Propeller spinner cut-out pattern for the Van's 13 inch
spinner dome.
http://www.sensenich.com/new/72fmcut.htm
Don Mack RV-6A finishing
don(at)dmack.net www.dmack.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | k moak <ken_moak(at)yahoo.com> |
I am having trouble visualizing the HS 908s. If I
understand the drawing it is narrower in L portion
(non spar side) than at the ends. Seems like the area
next to the spar does not taper? Does anybody know a
WEB site where I can see what this piece of angle is
going to look like. Not sure the tolerance, when they
give dimensions in 32s I assume it will be a tight fit
later.
Sorry for being so dense, I'm a little embarrassed
getting stuck of assembly step 2.
Any help would be appreciated.
Ken Moak
empennage
====
Ken Moak
ken_moak(at)yahoo.com
Y! Web Hosting - Let the expert host your web site
http://webhosting.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Votuc.com" <guy(at)votuc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV9-List: HS 908 question |
Here's a good picture of "attach brackets" from Tim's site http://www.deru.com/~rv9a/ ...thank s Tim..
Mine aren't that good but maybe for something else try here. . http://www.votuc.com/my_hobbys.htm
Guy
----- Original Message -----
From: "k moak" <ken_moak(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: RV9-List: HS 908 question
> --> RV9-List message posted by: k moak
>
> I am having trouble visualizing the HS 908s. If I
> understand the drawing it is narrower in L portion
> (non spar side) than at the ends. Seems like the area
> next to the spar does not taper? Does anybody know a
> WEB site where I can see what this piece of angle is
> going to look like. Not sure the tolerance, when they
> give dimensions in 32s I assume it will be a tight fit
> later.
>
> Sorry for being so dense, I'm a little embarrassed
> getting stuck of assembly step 2.
>
> Any help would be appreciated.
>
> Ken Moak
> empennage
>
> ====
> Ken Moak
> ken_moak(at)yahoo.com
>
> Y! Web Hosting - Let the expert host your web site
> http://webhosting.yahoo.com/
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Reminder Coastal Georgia Fall Fly In |
Hi Richard,
Regretfully, I will not make it to the flyin. Went out flying today and
when I got back local airport bum notice that the sidewall of my front tire
on my RV-6A had been erroded to the thread by a bolt which holds wheel pants
bracket to the nose wheel yoke. The wheel pant was a bit loose and I
tightened the bolt two flights ago which apparent caused it to stick
throught its hole in the wheel yoke sufficient to rub on the tire.
None of the local FBOs have tires that small, so had to order one from
Spruce but won't get it until next week.
Hope your flyin is a big success and hope to make the next one.
Best Regards
Ed Anderson
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Sipp" <rsipp(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RV-List: Reminder Coastal Georgia Fall Fly In
>
> A quick reminder: the Coastal Georgia Fall Fly-In is Oct 19. at Eagle Neck
Airpark, 1GA0. We're located on the Georgia coast half way between Savannah
and St. Simons. 5 RVs on the airport.
>
> Please RVSP off line and we'll send you a flyer and airport briefing.
>
> This airpark is featured on the cover of the current General Aviation
News.
>
> Dick & Vicki Sipp
> 912 832-4813
> rsipp(at)earthlink.net
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Erroded Front Tire |
I thought I would pass this one to RV-6/7/9A fliers as I have not hear of
anybody reporting this type of thing.
I notice two flights ago that my nose gear wheel pant was a little loose, so
I checked and found the 3/8" hex bolts that holds the wheel pant bracket to
the aluminum nose wheel yoke to be a bit loose. So I got out my hex wrench
and tightened them down a bit.
Coming back from a flight today, local airport bum notice that my nose gear
had a path on the sidewall where it had been erroded to the thread! On
closer examination, the thread was showing all along this circular path
around the tire.
It appears that by tightening the hex bolt, I screwed it in sufficently far
that its nose stuck out past the inside of the yoke to where it rubbed
against the sidewall. It may be that the split washers had lost their
tension, perhaps the bolt is 1/8" longer than it should be, or perhaps that
side of the tire (tire stem side) flexed out more to make contact OR perhaps
if you tighten it down enough, you too can get it to stick out the other
side. The other side of the tire had no such errosion.
It was not that apparently until you got down and looked at the tire
closely and then its clear the tire is shot. Fortunately, the sharp eyed
airport bum spotted it before I had to wrestle with the possible consequent
of a blow out on touch down. So thought I would pass this on.
Ed Anderson
Matthews, NC
RV-6A N494BW
eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: DAR Listing ??? |
John wrote:
>
>
> Mike,
>
> Does that mean I can send you the documentation necessary to have my 'old'
> operations limitations changed to match those published in FAA Order
> 8310.2D, Pagagraph 134 (dated 9/30/99), including the changes published in
> Change 1 to FAA Order 8130.2D (dated 2/15/99) ?
>
> Basically that would be so I can make a change to the aircraft, log it, stay
> in Phase 1 for 5 hours, and if all is well, make the required log entry and
> not have to pay someone $500?
>
> As it stands right now the man in the hangar right next to mine, with the
> exact airplane, having received his airworthiness certificate under the new
> order, can make changes himself, but me, only 15-feet away, has to pay some
> guy $500 for 'help' I don't need if we make the precise same changes.
>
> What's possible? Would the upcoming Experimeintal DAR that goes into effect
> the first of the year or so change what would be possible?
>
> John at Salida, CO
> n1cxo320(at)salidaco.com
>
John you can do that now, make the changes send a letter to FAA saying what
changes you made. Why would you have to pay someone $500.00?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com> |
| Subject: | Fuel Sender Leak |
Hi All,
Well, now that I've been flying for a few hours, I finally have a squawck.
I had a fuel smell in the cockpit when I was taxiing, I found a leak around
one of my "B"nuts on the API fuel pump. Tightened it up and it went away.
The residual smell in my carpet took longer, but I thought I had it licked.
The last couple of days, I thought the smell was getting stronger. I
searched every inch of my fuel system in the cockpit and no leaks. I was
satisfied that my smell wasn't coming from inside the plane, and externally
I couldn't find any indications of a leak. No blue stains, no marks on my
cement floor, etc..
Tonight while I had the seat pans up to install my new comm antenna, I
noticed the smell was stronger. AHA! It was coming from the outside.
Well, I stuck my nose down there and determined it was coming from the right
wing. Removed the right wing root fairing and guess what! Found a LEAK.
Actually not a leak, not even enough to create any blue stains or drops, but
definately a seap! The seap is from the very center of the fuel level
sender. I have the S/W senders in my plane, and the very center is what's
leaking, not my screws, etc..
So....I scratched my head for awhile, looked at one of my spare senders and
determined that there is no way to "tighten" anything. The center post is
tacked in when they are manufactured. What am I to do??? Well, I decided
that I'll schmutz the whole thing up with some PR-1435 sealant (it cures
inside wet fuel tanks) this weekend. The only thing I'll leave exposed is
the brass nut to screw in the sender wire, otherwise it'll be covered in
1435.
Just an FYI. I never thought THAT would leak. I more expeceted something I
did to leak.
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
RV6, Minneapolis
Grounded for a day!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carlfro(at)erols.com> |
| Subject: | Eroded Front Tire |
Ed,
I just got done doing the nose gear wheel pant on my 8A last weekend.
The
bolt is just a little too long. I added another washer in addition to the
split lock washer to solve the problem. I know - you are not supposed to
add washers when using split washers but I decided to check the hex nut from
time to time instead of worrying about the tire going out on me when the
side wall flexes.
Carl Froehlich
RV-8A flying
Vienna, VA
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ed Anderson
Subject: RV-List: Erroded Front Tire
I thought I would pass this one to RV-6/7/9A fliers as I have not hear of
anybody reporting this type of thing.
I notice two flights ago that my nose gear wheel pant was a little loose, so
I checked and found the 3/8" hex bolts that holds the wheel pant bracket to
the aluminum nose wheel yoke to be a bit loose. So I got out my hex wrench
and tightened them down a bit.
Coming back from a flight today, local airport bum notice that my nose gear
had a path on the sidewall where it had been erroded to the thread! On
closer examination, the thread was showing all along this circular path
around the tire.
It appears that by tightening the hex bolt, I screwed it in sufficently far
that its nose stuck out past the inside of the yoke to where it rubbed
against the sidewall. It may be that the split washers had lost their
tension, perhaps the bolt is 1/8" longer than it should be, or perhaps that
side of the tire (tire stem side) flexed out more to make contact OR perhaps
if you tighten it down enough, you too can get it to stick out the other
side. The other side of the tire had no such errosion.
It was not that apparently until you got down and looked at the tire
closely and then its clear the tire is shot. Fortunately, the sharp eyed
airport bum spotted it before I had to wrestle with the possible consequent
of a blow out on touch down. So thought I would pass this on.
Ed Anderson
Matthews, NC
RV-6A N494BW
eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert scott" <rscott(at)johnsonmfginc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV9-List: HS 908 question |
You can check out a photo of mine at http://www.myrv9a.com/hs908.htm
Robert
----- Original Message -----
From: "k moak" <ken_moak(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: RV9-List: HS 908 question
> --> RV9-List message posted by: k moak
>
> I am having trouble visualizing the HS 908s. If I
> understand the drawing it is narrower in L portion
> (non spar side) than at the ends. Seems like the area
> next to the spar does not taper? Does anybody know a
> WEB site where I can see what this piece of angle is
> going to look like. Not sure the tolerance, when they
> give dimensions in 32s I assume it will be a tight fit
> later.
>
> Sorry for being so dense, I'm a little embarrassed
> getting stuck of assembly step 2.
>
> Any help would be appreciated.
>
> Ken Moak
> empennage
>
> ====
> Ken Moak
> ken_moak(at)yahoo.com
>
> Y! Web Hosting - Let the expert host your web site
> http://webhosting.yahoo.com/
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Curt Reimer" <cgreimer(at)mb.sympatico.ca> |
> Belly tanks have been used on Pitt's for more than a quarter century. ...
Loaded
> with fuel, the CG point is moved very downward and with the extra 100 lbs,
it
> affects tracking and is very squirrelly for a plane that is normally a
pussycat.
Wow, a Pitts is a pussycat? What's your definition of hard - a J-85 mounted
on a unicycle?
:-)
Curt (no Pitts time, but they do have quite a bad rap in the ground handling
department)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | H-1 (was DAR Listing ???) |
| From: | "Gannon, Terence" <Terence.Gannon(at)trican.ca> |
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael Pilla" <mpilla(at)maine.rr.com> |
| Subject: | FS: RV-4 Project (Southern Coastal Maine) |
Reluctantly, I have decided that I must sell my RV-4 project. It is at the
proverbial 90% done, 90% remaining stage; i.e., all the major construction
has been finished.
The fuse is on the gear, wings are finished and primed, engine hung. The
cowling needs to be mounted and the final mating of the wings to the fuse
needs to be done. Nothing has been done on the instrument panel, but there
are several instruments waiting to be placed into the panel. I have a
Vision Microsystem for the RPM/Manifold/Fuel, etc. I also have two brand
new orphaned Terra units: the COM and XPNDR (with Mode S mod). The
starter/alternator are installed along with the battery and starter
solenoids following Electric Bob's instructions.
The project is located in Southern Maine, about 70 miles North of Boston or
16 miles North of Portsmouth, NH. With about three to four months of
full-time effort, this -4 can be flying.
There are some minor cracks (stop drilled) in the canopy (pilot/builder
errors, transportation and storage in a hangar while building a house). The
local EAA Tech Counselor felt that the canopy was fine, as is, especially to
get flying. The new Hartzel prop may need seals checked and the AD checked
since it has sat in the shipping container for a few years.
Asking $28K, or best offer for plane, prop, engine (O-320-E2D overhauled at
Winchester Aero and converted to a -D1A), instruments, and radios, ELT.
If interested, I can send photos of the project. It will fit in a 24'
U-Haul truck. The project is located in Ogunquit, ME - about 70 miles North
of Boston, 16 miles North of Portsmouth, NH.
Michael Pilla
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Eroded Front Tire |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Carl Froehlich" <carlfro(at)erols.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Eroded Front Tire
>
> Ed,
>
> I just got done doing the nose gear wheel pant on my 8A last
weekend. The
> bolt is just a little too long. I added another washer in addition to the
> split lock washer to solve the problem. I know - you are not supposed to
> add washers when using split washers but I decided to check the hex nut
from
> time to time instead of worrying about the tire going out on me when the
> side wall flexes.
>
> Carl Froehlich
> RV-8A flying
> Vienna, VA
>
Hi Carl,
I think the additional washer is a wise idea, certainly better than
having the bolt rub against the tire.
It just never occured to me that the bolt might be too long until I saw the
damage it did. How is your new bird flying - as if I need to ask {:>)
Ed Anderson
RV-6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Sudlow" <sudlow77(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV10-List: Re: posting (To Forward or Not to Forward...) |
Matt,
You're doing a great job managing this.
Chris
----- Original Message -----
From: "Matt Dralle" <dralle(at)matronics.com>
; ;
; ;
Subject: RV10-List: Re: posting (To Forward or Not to Forward...)
> --> RV10-List message posted by: dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle)
>
>
> Kevin's right, except for the RV7, RV9, and RV10 Lists. The way its
> been set up is when someone posts to the RV3, RV4, RV6, and RV8 Lists
> a copy is automatically sent to the RV-List too. For some reason, the
> 7/9/10 lists weren't configured that way; probably because I added
> them later and forgot that about the forwarding.
>
> In anycase, for now I've added the forward feature the 7/9/10 Lists to
keep
> everything consistant.
>
> However, I don't have a stong preference either way, actually. I can
> see pros and cons to each. Would people prefer the not-forwarding
> operation? Sounds like it they might...
>
> So let's vote! Drop me an email at:
>
> dralle(at)matronics.com
>
> with a simple:
>
> "Forward"
> or
> "Don't Forward"
>
> in the Subject Line. I'll added up the votes in a couple of days and
> announce the new method.
>
>
> Matt Dralle
> List Admin.
>
>
> >--------------
> >
> >Gary,
> >
> >Sorry, I have to respectfully disagree here. I am a member of Matt's
> >RV8-list and the RV-list. If I post a message to the RV8-list, I get
> >two copies - one that comes from the RV8-list, and a copy that comes
> >across on the main RV-list.
> >
> >I just checked my Out Box - my message to Steve was sent to the
> >RV4-List only. The copy you replied too seems to have come from the
> >main RV-List.
> >
> >Search the RV-List archives for the text " New Specific RV Lists Auto
> >Forwarded to RV-List" (don't include the quote marks. You'll find
> >Matt's description of how the system works. I believe it causes
> >confusion, because a lot of people on the main RV-List don't
> >understand that they need study the original message to see where it
> >originated, and send their response to the message to the correct
> >list. Otherwise, the original poster may not see the response. But,
> >Matt likes it the way it is, and these are his lists.
> >
> >Kevin
> >
> >>
> >>Kevin.....actually, messages posted to model-specific Matronics
> >>lists do not automatically post to the RV list. You can post to any
> >>list or combination of lists you like, but you have to send it to
> >>the ones you want it to show up on.
> >>
> >>Gary
> >>
> >>From: Kevin Horton <khorto1537(at)rogers.com>
> >>Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: RV4-List: Bleeding Brakes
> >>
> >>
> >>Steve,
> >>
> >>.................. Any message posted to one of the RV model specific
> >>list also gets posted to the main RV List. Any responses to the copy
> >>of the message that goes to the main RV List only go to the main RV
> >>List - they don't go back to the RV model specific list, ...............
> >
> >
> >--------------
>
>
> --
>
>
> Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
> 925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
> http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
>
>
> They that can give up essential liberty to obtain a little
> temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety.
>
> Benjamin Franklin
> Historical Review of Pennsylvania, 1759
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Knicholas2(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | static air question |
I am installing the Gretz heated pitot in my RV9. This pitot has a static
air port. Van's uses ports on the mid/aft fusealge as a source for static
air. My (probably dumb) question is which pitot source should I use? The
fuse source is easier to troubleshoot if there is a problem yet I can also
argue advantages for using the wing-pitot static source. Can/should I use
both and connect the wing & fuse static air together?
Thanks
Kim Nicholas
RV9A (I can see the light.....)
Seattle
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net> |
I have patterns for the cut outs for Van's fiberglass spinner for the Hartzell
constant speed prop (0360) if anyone would like a copy.
Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stucklen" <wstucklen1(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Erroded Front Tire (RV-6A Nose Wheel) |
Listers,
this is an old problem easily corrected with washers under the head of the hex
bolt.Before you install the nose section of the nose wheel pant, you should
inspect for clearance between these bolts and the tire..
Fred Stucklen
RV-6A N925RV
2005 Hrs of safe flying in the RV-6A
From: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com>
Subject: RV-List: Erroded Front Tire
I thought I would pass this one to RV-6/7/9A fliers as I have not hear of
anybody reporting this type of thing.
I notice two flights ago that my nose gear wheel pant was a little loose, so
I checked and found the 3/8" hex bolts that holds the wheel pant bracket to
the aluminum nose wheel yoke to be a bit loose. So I got out my hex wrench
and tightened them down a bit.
Coming back from a flight today, local airport bum notice that my nose gear
had a path on the sidewall where it had been erroded to the thread! On
closer examination, the thread was showing all along this circular path
around the tire.
It appears that by tightening the hex bolt, I screwed it in sufficently far
that its nose stuck out past the inside of the yoke to where it rubbed
against the sidewall. It may be that the split washers had lost their
tension, perhaps the bolt is 1/8" longer than it should be, or perhaps that
side of the tire (tire stem side) flexed out more to make contact OR perhaps
if you tighten it down enough, you too can get it to stick out the other
side. The other side of the tire had no such errosion.
It was not that apparently until you got down and looked at the tire
closely and then its clear the tire is shot. Fortunately, the sharp eyed
airport bum spotted it before I had to wrestle with the possible consequent
of a blow out on touch down. So thought I would pass this on.
Ed Anderson
Matthews, NC
RV-6A N494BW
eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Konrad Werner" <Connywerner(at)wans.net> |
| Subject: | Re: static air question |
Good question Kim,
I don't see how too many static sources could be bad in any way, as long as
they are in proven locations on the airframe?
Actually combining different sources of "Acceptable Locations" would give a
better average/balance on static pressure, now wouldn't it??
But then, I could be way wrong on this theory. Please correct me if so!!
Konrad,
ABQ-NM
> I am installing the Gretz heated pitot in my RV9. This pitot has a static
> air port. Van's uses ports on the mid/aft fusealge as a source for static
> air. My (probably dumb) question is which pitot source should I use?
The
> fuse source is easier to troubleshoot if there is a problem yet I can
also
> argue advantages for using the wing-pitot static source. Can/should I use
> both and connect the wing & fuse static air together?
>
> Thanks
>
> Kim Nicholas
> RV9A (I can see the light.....)
> Seattle
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vincent Welch" <welchvincent(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Spinner cut out |
Is this the same pattern for a Hartzell with an IO-360? If so, I would love
one.
Thanks,
Vince
>From: "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: "rv list"
>Subject: RV-List: Spinner cut out
>Date: Sat, 19 Oct 2002 08:51:49 -0700
>
>
>I have patterns for the cut outs for Van's fiberglass spinner for the
>Hartzell constant speed prop (0360) if anyone would like a copy.
>
>Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C.
>
>
Internet access plans that fit your lifestyle -- join MSN.
http://resourcecenter.msn.com/access/plans/default.asp
________________________________________________________________________________
rv7-list(at)matronics.com, rv8-list(at)matronics.com, rv9-list(at)matronics.com,
rv10-list(at)matronics.com
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Re: posting (To Forward or Not to Forward...) |
Thanks Scott! The votes are still trickling in and its a REALLY, REALLY
close race. If you have a preference and haven't yet voted, it so close
that one or two votes could actually make the difference. PLEASE only vote
once, though! To be fair, multiple votes from the same email address will
not be counted.
Matt
At 07:07 AM 10/19/2002 Saturday, you wrote:
>
>Matt,
>
>You're doing a great job managing this.
>
>Chris
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Matt Dralle" <dralle(at)matronics.com>
>Subject: RV-List: Re: posting (To Forward or Not to Forward...)
>
>
> > --> RV10-List message posted by: dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle)
> >
> >
> > Kevin's right, except for the RV7, RV9, and RV10 Lists. The way its
> > been set up is when someone posts to the RV3, RV4, RV6, and RV8 Lists
> > a copy is automatically sent to the RV-List too. For some reason, the
> > 7/9/10 lists weren't configured that way; probably because I added
> > them later and forgot that about the forwarding.
> >
> > In anycase, for now I've added the forward feature the 7/9/10 Lists to
>keep
> > everything consistant.
> >
> > However, I don't have a stong preference either way, actually. I can
> > see pros and cons to each. Would people prefer the not-forwarding
> > operation? Sounds like it they might...
> >
> > So let's vote! Drop me an email at:
> >
> > dralle(at)matronics.com
> >
> > with a simple:
> >
> > "Forward"
> > or
> > "Don't Forward"
> >
> > in the Subject Line. I'll added up the votes in a couple of days and
> > announce the new method.
> >
> >
> > Matt Dralle
> > List Admin.
> >
> >
> > >--------------
> > >
> > >Gary,
> > >
> > >Sorry, I have to respectfully disagree here. I am a member of Matt's
> > >RV8-list and the RV-list. If I post a message to the RV8-list, I get
> > >two copies - one that comes from the RV8-list, and a copy that comes
> > >across on the main RV-list.
> > >
> > >I just checked my Out Box - my message to Steve was sent to the
> > >RV4-List only. The copy you replied too seems to have come from the
> > >main RV-List.
> > >
> > >Search the RV-List archives for the text " New Specific RV Lists Auto
> > >Forwarded to RV-List" (don't include the quote marks. You'll find
> > >Matt's description of how the system works. I believe it causes
> > >confusion, because a lot of people on the main RV-List don't
> > >understand that they need study the original message to see where it
> > >originated, and send their response to the message to the correct
> > >list. Otherwise, the original poster may not see the response. But,
> > >Matt likes it the way it is, and these are his lists.
> > >
> > >Kevin
> > >
> > >>
> > >>Kevin.....actually, messages posted to model-specific Matronics
> > >>lists do not automatically post to the RV list. You can post to any
> > >>list or combination of lists you like, but you have to send it to
> > >>the ones you want it to show up on.
> > >>
> > >>Gary
> > >>
> > >>From: Kevin Horton <khorto1537(at)rogers.com>
> > >>Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: RV4-List: Bleeding Brakes
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>Steve,
> > >>
> > >>.................. Any message posted to one of the RV model specific
> > >>list also gets posted to the main RV List. Any responses to the copy
> > >>of the message that goes to the main RV List only go to the main RV
> > >>List - they don't go back to the RV model specific list, ...............
> > >
> > >
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Knicholas2(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | routing the static tubing |
I asked earlier about static sources in the aft. fuse (per Van's plans) and
in the heated pitot tube. Thanks for the great input. I plan to tie together
the static lines from the aft fuse and the heated pitot tube.
The next question - when you guys run the static tubing from teh aft fuse,
thru the bulkheads and along the pilot side cockpit to the panel, are you
somehow stuffing the tube up under the longeron out of sight or just let it
stay visable on the bottom of the longeron. If you are stuffing it up under
the U shape channel, how are you keeping it there?
...so full of questions, so few answers...
Kim Nicholas
RV9A
Seattle
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Knicholas2(at)aol.com |
forward
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 10/19/02 10:35:43 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
n5lp(at)carlsbad.net writes:
> I have also found that the horror stories, almost invariably, come from
> people that have not flown the airplane they are talking about.
>
Larry you speaketh the truth.
Scott Morrow
RV-6A 90%
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: static air question |
The more ports you use, the higher probability that you will have a leak in
the system. I believe Piper also uses one on each side to balance the static
pressure but adding a 3rd just adds weight without benefit.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Konrad Werner" <Connywerner(at)wans.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: static air question
>
> Good question Kim,
>
> I don't see how too many static sources could be bad in any way, as long
as
> they are in proven locations on the airframe?
> Actually combining different sources of "Acceptable Locations" would give
a
> better average/balance on static pressure, now wouldn't it??
> But then, I could be way wrong on this theory. Please correct me if so!!
>
> Konrad,
> ABQ-NM
>
>
> > I am installing the Gretz heated pitot in my RV9. This pitot has a
static
> > air port. Van's uses ports on the mid/aft fusealge as a source for
static
> > air. My (probably dumb) question is which pitot source should I use?
> The
> > fuse source is easier to troubleshoot if there is a problem yet I can
> also
> > argue advantages for using the wing-pitot static source. Can/should I
use
> > both and connect the wing & fuse static air together?
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> > Kim Nicholas
> > RV9A (I can see the light.....)
> > Seattle
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List Digest: 2 Msgs - 10/18/02 |
Stan:
RV-6 fuel leaks.... I've got one...
I've got one rivet just in front of the right spar, about half way out the
fuel tank, that seeps a bit of blue fuel all the time.
A friend who's building an RV-6 in a pack of RV-6 builder/owners at
Denver's Front Range Airport (See his web site: Singer's RV-6A ) suggests
using a special version of Loctite. I forgot the specific number of the
product, but I think its called Loctite C, or maybe B? Whatever, its very
rare, hard to find. You have to go to those real industrial quality hardware
stores to find it. I had a web site for it, but dumped it after I found it
and bought it.
Here's the important clue: Its GREEN. Loctite makes it just for seeping
leaks and for holding screws and things that are already assembled. Its very
very thin fluid, (not viscous or gummy at all) and can seep UP into bolt
threads, loose rivets, tiny crevices, by capillary action. And, it works
fine in an oily or fuel environment. It does seal up fuel leaks! As long as
they are tiny seeps around things with very small openings. It can seal UP
(against gravity) because it works by capillary action. Good stuff. But...
very expensive! I think I paid about $7 for a very tiny plastic bottle of
about 1/2 oz.
That's the good news. Now, my bad news: I have been daubing the green
loctite on that leaking rivet for a couple of weeks now, (about once a week),
and it sucks right up around that rivet. But... I'm thinking it must be just
getting washed away on the inside of the tank, or diluted with wet fuel,
because its not doing anything to stop the leak, so far... Perhaps I'll
have to drain the tank first, let it dry, and then do the locktite
application to the bad rivet. That will no doubt allow the loctite to suck
up, fill in the gaps around the rivet, and solidify and DRY. Then I'll be
done with the leak.
Dan Eikleberry
Las Vegas .. RV-6 flying.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List Digest: 2 Msgs - 10/18/02 |
PRODUCT DESCRIPTION
LOCTITE Product 990 is a low viscosity, anaerobic sealant
designed especially for wicking applications. It has the ability to
penetrate porosities and cracks by capillary action, filling voids
as large as .005". This sealant hardens by polymerization into a
tough thermoset plastic, only when confined between surfaces
such as a pore. Sealant exposed to air will remain liquid and is
removed by washing with organic solvents or water based
industrial wash solutions. Pressures and fluids may be retained,
as well as corrosion or contamination eliminated. The sealant is
suitable for continuous service at 300F. Typical weldments and
castings can be sealed to their rupture pressure. Experience
has shown that thin walled members exposed to temperatures
above 225F and pressure cycling above 250 psig must be
evaluated on an individual basis. This product withstands
temperatures ranging from -65F to 400F. Parts may reach
400F intermittently without affecting the sealability of the
sealant.
Application of Sealant
Sealant is applied directly to prepared surfaces. Metal
temperature may range from 60F to 140F. Higher
temperatures will open porosities, reduce the viscosity and
speed up the cure.
Brushing is the easiest and most economical means of
application. 3 ml's (cc's) of sealant are required to seal 100
linear inches of weld when using a 1/2" brush. Manual or fully
automatic spray equipment is available from Loctite Corporation
for high production requirements. Loctite sealants cure between
any metallic surface.
PROPERTIES OF UNCURED MATERIAL
Typical Value
Chemical Type Dimethacrylate
Appearance Clear tan
Viscosity, Cannon Fenske #150 @ 25C, cP 11 - 20
Specific Gravity 1.07
Flash Point, COC, F >200
TYPICAL PROPERTIES OF CURED MATERIAL
Coefficient of Thermal Expansion
ASTM D 696, in/in/C 10-4
Product 990 is recommended for inactive surfaces, such as zinc
or aluminum. It can also be used on iron or steel surfaces.
However, its rapid cure speed may not allow for total
penetration into porosity.
Surface Preparation
All surfaces must be free of dirt and excessive oil. If cleaning is
necessary, only non-greasing solvents should be used.
Cure Rate
Adhesive should be allowed to cure to 50% strength before
further processing or testing. Application to non-metallic
surfaces may require heat curing. From www.loctite.com
----- Original Message -----
From: <DanJE(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: Re: RV6-List Digest: 2 Msgs - 10/18/02
>
> Stan:
> RV-6 fuel leaks.... I've got one...
> I've got one rivet just in front of the right spar, about half way out the
> fuel tank, that seeps a bit of blue fuel all the time.
>
> A friend who's building an RV-6 in a pack of RV-6 builder/owners at
> Denver's Front Range Airport (See his web site: Singer's RV-6A ) suggests
> using a special version of Loctite. I forgot the specific number of the
> product, but I think its called Loctite C, or maybe B? Whatever, its very
> rare, hard to find. You have to go to those real industrial quality
hardware
> stores to find it. I had a web site for it, but dumped it after I found
it
> and bought it.
>
> Here's the important clue: Its GREEN. Loctite makes it just for seeping
> leaks and for holding screws and things that are already assembled. Its
very
> very thin fluid, (not viscous or gummy at all) and can seep UP into bolt
> threads, loose rivets, tiny crevices, by capillary action. And, it works
> fine in an oily or fuel environment. It does seal up fuel leaks! As long
as
> they are tiny seeps around things with very small openings. It can seal
UP
> (against gravity) because it works by capillary action. Good stuff.
But...
> very expensive! I think I paid about $7 for a very tiny plastic bottle of
> about 1/2 oz.
>
> That's the good news. Now, my bad news: I have been daubing the green
> loctite on that leaking rivet for a couple of weeks now, (about once a
week),
> and it sucks right up around that rivet. But... I'm thinking it must be
just
> getting washed away on the inside of the tank, or diluted with wet fuel,
> because its not doing anything to stop the leak, so far... Perhaps I'll
> have to drain the tank first, let it dry, and then do the locktite
> application to the bad rivet. That will no doubt allow the loctite to
suck
> up, fill in the gaps around the rivet, and solidify and DRY. Then I'll be
> done with the leak.
>
> Dan Eikleberry
> Las Vegas .. RV-6 flying.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List Digest: 2 Msgs - 10/18/02 |
Maybe since it does not want air to set... apply and then cover with clear
tape to exclude air. Might be helpful as you say to lower the fuel level
below the rivet. Might raise or lower tail or block up a wheel to move the
fuel level and reduce the pressure.
----- Original Message -----
From: <DanJE(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: Re: RV6-List Digest: 2 Msgs - 10/18/02
>
> Stan:
> RV-6 fuel leaks.... I've got one...
> I've got one rivet just in front of the right spar, about half way out the
> fuel tank, that seeps a bit of blue fuel all the time.
>
> A friend who's building an RV-6 in a pack of RV-6 builder/owners at
> Denver's Front Range Airport (See his web site: Singer's RV-6A ) suggests
> using a special version of Loctite. I forgot the specific number of the
> product, but I think its called Loctite C, or maybe B? Whatever, its very
> rare, hard to find. You have to go to those real industrial quality
hardware
> stores to find it. I had a web site for it, but dumped it after I found
it
> and bought it.
>
> Here's the important clue: Its GREEN. Loctite makes it just for seeping
> leaks and for holding screws and things that are already assembled. Its
very
> very thin fluid, (not viscous or gummy at all) and can seep UP into bolt
> threads, loose rivets, tiny crevices, by capillary action. And, it works
> fine in an oily or fuel environment. It does seal up fuel leaks! As long
as
> they are tiny seeps around things with very small openings. It can seal
UP
> (against gravity) because it works by capillary action. Good stuff.
But...
> very expensive! I think I paid about $7 for a very tiny plastic bottle of
> about 1/2 oz.
>
> That's the good news. Now, my bad news: I have been daubing the green
> loctite on that leaking rivet for a couple of weeks now, (about once a
week),
> and it sucks right up around that rivet. But... I'm thinking it must be
just
> getting washed away on the inside of the tank, or diluted with wet fuel,
> because its not doing anything to stop the leak, so far... Perhaps I'll
> have to drain the tank first, let it dry, and then do the locktite
> application to the bad rivet. That will no doubt allow the loctite to
suck
> up, fill in the gaps around the rivet, and solidify and DRY. Then I'll be
> done with the leak.
>
> Dan Eikleberry
> Las Vegas .. RV-6 flying.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John" <n1cxo320(at)salidaco.com> |
| Subject: | Re: DAR Listing ??? |
Because basically your have to have the PERMISSION to make the change from
the FSDO or a DAR. If you have the newer operations limitations you just do
the change, log it, go to Phase 1 for 5 hours, and if all is well, just make
the required log entry. With the old limitations you CANNOT just 'do it' -
what ever happened to equal treatment under the law??? The DARs want to do a
full plane inspection - just as if it had never been inspected and charge
for the whole ball of wax, even though, as you point out, it is merely a
paper work exercise.
John at Salida, CO
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jerry Springer" <jsflyrv(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: DAR Listing ???
>
> John wrote:
> >
> >
> > Mike,
> >
> > Does that mean I can send you the documentation necessary to have my
'old'
> > operations limitations changed to match those published in FAA Order
> > 8310.2D, Pagagraph 134 (dated 9/30/99), including the changes published
in
> > Change 1 to FAA Order 8130.2D (dated 2/15/99) ?
> >
> > Basically that would be so I can make a change to the aircraft, log it,
stay
> > in Phase 1 for 5 hours, and if all is well, make the required log entry
and
> > not have to pay someone $500?
> >
> > As it stands right now the man in the hangar right next to mine, with
the
> > exact airplane, having received his airworthiness certificate under the
new
> > order, can make changes himself, but me, only 15-feet away, has to pay
some
> > guy $500 for 'help' I don't need if we make the precise same changes.
> >
> > What's possible? Would the upcoming Experimeintal DAR that goes into
effect
> > the first of the year or so change what would be possible?
> >
> > John at Salida, CO
> > n1cxo320(at)salidaco.com
> >
>
> John you can do that now, make the changes send a letter to FAA saying
what
> changes you made. Why would you have to pay someone $500.00?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ken Stribling" <ken(at)soundsuckers.com> |
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: DAR Listing ??? |
My OL issued in 1989 just says FAA must be notified and their response
received in writing. I suppose it is up to the individual if they want to
do a complete inspection again. If you change your prop does that mean you
are going to pay some guy for a complete inspection again? From what
I understand that would be a major change and require a letter to FAA and
a response from them in writing under old limitations. I wonder how many
homebuilts of any kind out there have had changes such as prop change without
notifying anyone? To take it a step farther I wonder how many engines have
been changed from say an O-320 to an O-360 under old limitations without
anyone being notified? It goes without saying this would make insurance
people unhappy I am sure. I wish FAA had just grand fathered in all of the
OLs and made them all the same.
Jerry
John wrote:
>
>
> Because basically your have to have the PERMISSION to make the change from
> the FSDO or a DAR. If you have the newer operations limitations you just do
> the change, log it, go to Phase 1 for 5 hours, and if all is well, just make
> the required log entry. With the old limitations you CANNOT just 'do it' -
> what ever happened to equal treatment under the law??? The DARs want to do a
> full plane inspection - just as if it had never been inspected and charge
> for the whole ball of wax, even though, as you point out, it is merely a
> paper work exercise.
>
> John at Salida, CO
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jerry Springer" <jsflyrv(at)earthlink.net>
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: DAR Listing ???
>
> >
> > John wrote:
> > >
> > >
> > > Mike,
> > >
> > > Does that mean I can send you the documentation necessary to have my
> 'old'
> > > operations limitations changed to match those published in FAA Order
> > > 8310.2D, Pagagraph 134 (dated 9/30/99), including the changes published
> in
> > > Change 1 to FAA Order 8130.2D (dated 2/15/99) ?
> > >
> > > Basically that would be so I can make a change to the aircraft, log it,
> stay
> > > in Phase 1 for 5 hours, and if all is well, make the required log entry
> and
> > > not have to pay someone $500?
> > >
> > > As it stands right now the man in the hangar right next to mine, with
> the
> > > exact airplane, having received his airworthiness certificate under the
> new
> > > order, can make changes himself, but me, only 15-feet away, has to pay
> some
> > > guy $500 for 'help' I don't need if we make the precise same changes.
> > >
> > > What's possible? Would the upcoming Experimeintal DAR that goes into
> effect
> > > the first of the year or so change what would be possible?
> > >
> > > John at Salida, CO
> > > n1cxo320(at)salidaco.com
> > >
> >
> > John you can do that now, make the changes send a letter to FAA saying
> what
> > changes you made. Why would you have to pay someone $500.00?
> >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sally and George" <aeronut58(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List Digest: 2 Msgs - 10/18/02 |
Dan:
The stuff you want is called Loctite Threadlocker Green. It's available at
Auto Zone or other auto parts stores for about $5.00.
You must drain the fuel tank before using it.
It helps to apply a pool of the stuff under the weeping rivet and allow it
to suck up over a period of abou 24 hours. I used flattened modellling
clay,and put a cavity in it with the head of an AN5 bolt. I filled the
cavity with Threadlocker Green and applied it to the rivet, then held it in
place with duct tape. After 24 hours it is cured and will stop small leaks.
It won't work for large ones.
For large leaks, you'll neet to remove the tank, drill out the rivet and
replace it with lots of tank sealer.
George Kilishek
RV-8 N888GK
> > Stan:
> > RV-6 fuel leaks.... I've got one...
> > I've got one rivet just in front of the right spar, about half way out
>the
> > fuel tank, that seeps a bit of blue fuel all the time.
> >
> > A friend who's building an RV-6 in a pack of RV-6 builder/owners at
> > Denver's Front Range Airport (See his web site: HREF="http://www.jgsinger.com/rv">Singer's RV-6A ) suggests
> > using a special version of Loctite. I forgot the specific number of the
> > product, but I think its called Loctite C, or maybe B? Whatever, its
>very
> > rare, hard to find. You have to go to those real industrial quality
>hardware
> > stores to find it. I had a web site for it, but dumped it after I found
>it
> > and bought it.
> >
> > Here's the important clue: Its GREEN. Loctite makes it just for seeping
> > leaks and for holding screws and things that are already assembled. Its
>very
> > very thin fluid, (not viscous or gummy at all) and can seep UP into bolt
> > threads, loose rivets, tiny crevices, by capillary action. And, it
>works
> > fine in an oily or fuel environment. It does seal up fuel leaks! As
>long
>as
> > they are tiny seeps around things with very small openings. It can seal
>UP
> > (against gravity) because it works by capillary action. Good stuff.
>But...
> > very expensive! I think I paid about $7 for a very tiny plastic bottle
>of
> > about 1/2 oz.
> >
> > That's the good news. Now, my bad news: I have been daubing the
>green
> > loctite on that leaking rivet for a couple of weeks now, (about once a
>week),
> > and it sucks right up around that rivet. But... I'm thinking it must be
>just
> > getting washed away on the inside of the tank, or diluted with wet fuel,
> > because its not doing anything to stop the leak, so far... Perhaps
>I'll
> > have to drain the tank first, let it dry, and then do the locktite
> > application to the bad rivet. That will no doubt allow the loctite to
>suck
> > up, fill in the gaps around the rivet, and solidify and DRY. Then I'll
>be
> > done with the leak.
> >
> > Dan Eikleberry
> > Las Vegas .. RV-6 flying.
> >
> >
>
>
Protect your PC - get McAfee.com VirusScan Online
http://clinic.mcafee.com/clinic/ibuy/campaign.asp?cid=3963
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Stewart" <davestewart(at)globalserve.net> |
| Subject: | Re: routing the static tubing |
Kim
Make a few clips (see static attach detail dwg 25) that rivet through
longeron and keep line level along its run.
Dave
----- Original Message -----
From: <Knicholas2(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: routing the static tubing
>
> I asked earlier about static sources in the aft. fuse (per Van's plans)
and
> in the heated pitot tube. Thanks for the great input. I plan to tie
together
> the static lines from the aft fuse and the heated pitot tube.
>
> The next question - when you guys run the static tubing from teh aft
fuse,
> thru the bulkheads and along the pilot side cockpit to the panel, are you
> somehow stuffing the tube up under the longeron out of sight or just let
it
> stay visable on the bottom of the longeron. If you are stuffing it up
under
> the U shape channel, how are you keeping it there?
>
> ...so full of questions, so few answers...
>
> Kim Nicholas
> RV9A
> Seattle
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: DAR Listing ??? |
Jerry, Just go to the FAA and have them give you the new limitations. Some
say you win, some say you lose a bit. The FSDO might want to inspect your
airplane. Strike that! Might want to look at your airplane, but since there
is no urgency, they should be able to do it when they get around to it. If
they won't, then stick with what you have until the VDARs come around.
(Voluntary DAR) EAA is working on it and it is in the wings. You haven't had
a problem with the old OLs since 1989, a few months more should not give you
any heart-burn.
Cy Galley
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jerry Springer" <jsflyrv(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: DAR Listing ???
>
> My OL issued in 1989 just says FAA must be notified and their response
> received in writing. I suppose it is up to the individual if they want to
> do a complete inspection again. If you change your prop does that mean you
> are going to pay some guy for a complete inspection again? From what
> I understand that would be a major change and require a letter to FAA and
> a response from them in writing under old limitations. I wonder how many
> homebuilts of any kind out there have had changes such as prop change
without
> notifying anyone? To take it a step farther I wonder how many engines have
> been changed from say an O-320 to an O-360 under old limitations without
> anyone being notified? It goes without saying this would make insurance
> people unhappy I am sure. I wish FAA had just grand fathered in all of the
> OLs and made them all the same.
>
> Jerry
>
> John wrote:
> >
> >
> > Because basically your have to have the PERMISSION to make the change
from
> > the FSDO or a DAR. If you have the newer operations limitations you just
do
> > the change, log it, go to Phase 1 for 5 hours, and if all is well, just
make
> > the required log entry. With the old limitations you CANNOT just 'do
t' -
> > what ever happened to equal treatment under the law??? The DARs want to
do a
> > full plane inspection - just as if it had never been inspected and
charge
> > for the whole ball of wax, even though, as you point out, it is merely a
> > paper work exercise.
> >
> > John at Salida, CO
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Jerry Springer" <jsflyrv(at)earthlink.net>
> > To:
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: DAR Listing ???
> >
> > >
> > > John wrote:
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Mike,
> > > >
> > > > Does that mean I can send you the documentation necessary to have my
> > 'old'
> > > > operations limitations changed to match those published in FAA Order
> > > > 8310.2D, Pagagraph 134 (dated 9/30/99), including the changes
published
> > in
> > > > Change 1 to FAA Order 8130.2D (dated 2/15/99) ?
> > > >
> > > > Basically that would be so I can make a change to the aircraft, log
it,
> > stay
> > > > in Phase 1 for 5 hours, and if all is well, make the required log
entry
> > and
> > > > not have to pay someone $500?
> > > >
> > > > As it stands right now the man in the hangar right next to mine,
with
> > the
> > > > exact airplane, having received his airworthiness certificate under
the
> > new
> > > > order, can make changes himself, but me, only 15-feet away, has to
pay
> > some
> > > > guy $500 for 'help' I don't need if we make the precise same
changes.
> > > >
> > > > What's possible? Would the upcoming Experimeintal DAR that goes into
> > effect
> > > > the first of the year or so change what would be possible?
> > > >
> > > > John at Salida, CO
> > > > n1cxo320(at)salidaco.com
> > > >
> > >
> > > John you can do that now, make the changes send a letter to FAA saying
> > what
> > > changes you made. Why would you have to pay someone $500.00?
> > >
> > >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: DAR Listing ??? |
One of our chapter members just wrote our FSDO for permission to change
rudder peddles from bottom mount to hanging type on his RV-6 He has the old
OL and they wrote back and said it was fine with them. If I remember they
even treated it as a minor alteration so he didn't have to re-inspect. Good
figure.
----- Original Message -----
From: "John" <n1cxo320(at)salidaco.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: DAR Listing ???
>
> Because basically your have to have the PERMISSION to make the change from
> the FSDO or a DAR. If you have the newer operations limitations you just
do
> the change, log it, go to Phase 1 for 5 hours, and if all is well, just
make
> the required log entry. With the old limitations you CANNOT just 'do
t' -
> what ever happened to equal treatment under the law??? The DARs want to do
a
> full plane inspection - just as if it had never been inspected and charge
> for the whole ball of wax, even though, as you point out, it is merely a
> paper work exercise.
>
>
> John at Salida, CO
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jerry Springer" <jsflyrv(at)earthlink.net>
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: DAR Listing ???
>
>
> >
> > John wrote:
> > >
> > >
> > > Mike,
> > >
> > > Does that mean I can send you the documentation necessary to have my
> 'old'
> > > operations limitations changed to match those published in FAA Order
> > > 8310.2D, Pagagraph 134 (dated 9/30/99), including the changes
published
> in
> > > Change 1 to FAA Order 8130.2D (dated 2/15/99) ?
> > >
> > > Basically that would be so I can make a change to the aircraft, log
it,
> stay
> > > in Phase 1 for 5 hours, and if all is well, make the required log
entry
> and
> > > not have to pay someone $500?
> > >
> > > As it stands right now the man in the hangar right next to mine, with
> the
> > > exact airplane, having received his airworthiness certificate under
the
> new
> > > order, can make changes himself, but me, only 15-feet away, has to pay
> some
> > > guy $500 for 'help' I don't need if we make the precise same changes.
> > >
> > > What's possible? Would the upcoming Experimeintal DAR that goes into
> effect
> > > the first of the year or so change what would be possible?
> > >
> > > John at Salida, CO
> > > n1cxo320(at)salidaco.com
> > >
> >
> > John you can do that now, make the changes send a letter to FAA saying
> what
> > changes you made. Why would you have to pay someone $500.00?
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Erroded Front Tire (RV-6A Nose Wheel) |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Stucklen" <wstucklen1(at)cox.net>
Subject: RV-List: Erroded Front Tire (RV-6A Nose Wheel)
>
> Listers,
>
> this is an old problem easily corrected with washers under the head of
the hex bolt.Before you install the nose section of the nose wheel pant, you
should inspect for clearance between these bolts and the tire..
>
> Fred Stucklen
> RV-6A N925RV
> 2005 Hrs of safe flying in the RV-6A
>
>
Ok, thanks, Fred
I had not heard about it before and could find nothing in the archives
when I searched there.
Checking is clearly the prudent thing to do and adding a washer where
necessary.
Ed Anderson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Weiler" <dougweil(at)pressenter.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List Digest: 2 Msgs - 10/18/02 |
>
> Maybe since it does not want air to set... apply and then cover with clear
> tape to exclude air. Might be helpful as you say to lower the fuel level
> below the rivet. Might raise or lower tail or block up a wheel to move the
> fuel level and reduce the pressure.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <DanJE(at)aol.com>
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: Re: RV6-List Digest: 2 Msgs - 10/18/02
>
Hi Guys:
Do you think this version of Locktite may stop a slowly seeping brake
fitting on my RV-4. It is the brass fittings screwed into the aluminum
master cylinders. I am about ready to remove the brass fittings and install
AN fittings, but maybe this might work.
Doug Weiler
Hudson, WI
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV10-List: Re: posting (To Forward or Not to Forward...) |
forward
Terry E. Cole
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Hung Up Flop Tube Previously RV Glider |
Some of you may recall my episode where I could not use the last 3 gallons
or so of fuel from my right tank which has a flop tube installed. I
concluded that the flop tube must have hung up on a lightening hole or some
other obstruction which kept the end suspended approx 2 1/2" above the
bottom of the tank.
Well, today, I took the tank off the wing being careful not to disturb the
flop tube as I wanted to see what it was hung up on. Well, much to my
surprise when I unscrewed and opened up the access plate, the flop tube was
laying exactly where it should be. Further I had never cut a lightening
hole in that bays ribs which I thought it might have hung upon, plus I had
all the guards that Van's recommends for the flop tube tank (I had forgotten
the details over the past 6 years). Well, I was really perplexed in that
the flop tube was not hung up on anything and reached in and grabbed the
flop tube and much to my surprise it came out the access door in my hand!
The flop tube had not hung up, the flare nut holding to the bulkhead fitting
had come unscrewed. The only thing I can conclude (as I flew approx 150
hours before having the fuel problem) is that I must have not torque it on
sufficiently and the vibration eventually loosened and unscrewed the flare
nut and flop tube. So I was only picking fuel up that rose as high as the
bulkhead fitting.
So flop tube fitting is torque firmly and hopefully finally.
Best Regards
Ed Anderson
Ed Anderson
Matthews, NC
RV-6A N494BW
eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Harry Hawkins" <hawkbud(at)mail.speednetllc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List: Fuel Sender Leak |
3M makes a product called "structural adhesive" p/n 08101. it would seal your
mother in laws mouth. Work fast it has only two minutes till it hardens. You
will like it for gas leaks.
---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
From: "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com>
Date: Fri, 18 Oct 2002 21:37:56 -0500
>--> RV6-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch"
>
>Hi All,
>
>Well, now that I've been flying for a few hours, I finally have a squawck.
>I had a fuel smell in the cockpit when I was taxiing, I found a leak around
>one of my "B"nuts on the API fuel pump. Tightened it up and it went away.
>The residual smell in my carpet took longer, but I thought I had it licked.
>The last couple of days, I thought the smell was getting stronger. I
>searched every inch of my fuel system in the cockpit and no leaks. I was
>satisfied that my smell wasn't coming from inside the plane, and externally
>I couldn't find any indications of a leak. No blue stains, no marks on my
>cement floor, etc..
>
>Tonight while I had the seat pans up to install my new comm antenna, I
>noticed the smell was stronger. AHA! It was coming from the outside.
>Well, I stuck my nose down there and determined it was coming from the right
>wing. Removed the right wing root fairing and guess what! Found a LEAK.
>Actually not a leak, not even enough to create any blue stains or drops, but
>definately a seap! The seap is from the very center of the fuel level
>sender. I have the S/W senders in my plane, and the very center is what's
>leaking, not my screws, etc..
>
>So....I scratched my head for awhile, looked at one of my spare senders and
>determined that there is no way to "tighten" anything. The center post is
>tacked in when they are manufactured. What am I to do??? Well, I decided
>that I'll schmutz the whole thing up with some PR-1435 sealant (it cures
>inside wet fuel tanks) this weekend. The only thing I'll leave exposed is
>the brass nut to screw in the sender wire, otherwise it'll be covered in
>1435.
>
>Just an FYI. I never thought THAT would leak. I more expeceted something I
>did to leak.
>
>Cheers,
>Stein Bruch
>RV6, Minneapolis
>Grounded for a day!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
| Subject: | Re: DAR Listing ??? |
You can get your old op lims changed to the new ones by calling the fsdo &
explaining what you want, then taking your old op lims to them along with the
completed application they mailed to you. They then issue the new paperwork in
the office. Been there, done that with an RV-4 built in '92.
If the fsdo resists, call EAA & ask for their assistance in educating the guys
at the fsdo.
Charlie
John wrote:
>
>
> Because basically your have to have the PERMISSION to make the change from
> the FSDO or a DAR. If you have the newer operations limitations you just do
> the change, log it, go to Phase 1 for 5 hours, and if all is well, just make
> the required log entry. With the old limitations you CANNOT just 'do it' -
> what ever happened to equal treatment under the law??? The DARs want to do a
> full plane inspection - just as if it had never been inspected and charge
> for the whole ball of wax, even though, as you point out, it is merely a
> paper work exercise.
>
> John at Salida, CO
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jerry Springer" <jsflyrv(at)earthlink.net>
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: DAR Listing ???
>
> >
> > John wrote:
> > >
> > >
> > > Mike,
> > >
> > > Does that mean I can send you the documentation necessary to have my
> 'old'
> > > operations limitations changed to match those published in FAA Order
> > > 8310.2D, Pagagraph 134 (dated 9/30/99), including the changes published
> in
> > > Change 1 to FAA Order 8130.2D (dated 2/15/99) ?
> > >
> > > Basically that would be so I can make a change to the aircraft, log it,
> stay
> > > in Phase 1 for 5 hours, and if all is well, make the required log entry
> and
> > > not have to pay someone $500?
> > >
> > > As it stands right now the man in the hangar right next to mine, with
> the
> > > exact airplane, having received his airworthiness certificate under the
> new
> > > order, can make changes himself, but me, only 15-feet away, has to pay
> some
> > > guy $500 for 'help' I don't need if we make the precise same changes.
> > >
> > > What's possible? Would the upcoming Experimeintal DAR that goes into
> effect
> > > the first of the year or so change what would be possible?
> > >
> > > John at Salida, CO
> > > n1cxo320(at)salidaco.com
> > >
> >
> > John you can do that now, make the changes send a letter to FAA saying
> what
> > changes you made. Why would you have to pay someone $500.00?
> >
> >
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie and Tupper England <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
| Subject: | Re: static air question |
Konrad Werner wrote:
>
see below...
>
> Good question Kim,
>
> I don't see how too many static sources could be bad in any way, as long as
> they are in proven locations on the airframe?
> Actually combining different sources of "Acceptable Locations" would give a
> better average/balance on static pressure, now wouldn't it??
> But then, I could be way wrong on this theory. Please correct me if so!!
>
> Konrad,
> ABQ-NM
>
> > I am installing the Gretz heated pitot in my RV9. This pitot has a static
> > air port. Van's uses ports on the mid/aft fusealge as a source for static
> > air. My (probably dumb) question is which pitot source should I use?
> The
> > fuse source is easier to troubleshoot if there is a problem yet I can
> also
> > argue advantages for using the wing-pitot static source. Can/should I use
> > both and connect the wing & fuse static air together?
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> > Kim Nicholas
> > RV9A (I can see the light.....)
> > Seattle
> >
> >
>
Konrad,
On my RV-4 with 2 flush static ports in Van's recommended fuse. location, I had
~ 10 kt (slow) error in indicated airspeed at cruise & ~ 150 ft (low) indicated
altitude at full speed. If you are wondering how I knew, the alt. was set to
field elevation & indicated ~150 ft *below* field elevation when making a high
speed pass down the runway.
Adding pop-rivet heads over the ports (thanks, Kevin) corrected both the
airspeed error & the altimeter error.
Would adding another port have changed things again? I don't know, but I'd bet
yes.
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Oldsfolks(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV 6 list digest:2msgs-10-18-02 |
The weeping brake fitting can be fixed by emoving it and using ,"Fuel Lube "
to re-install it .You need something like this when installing any aluminum
or dissimilar metal fittings. As a lubricant and sealer.
RV-4 , N1191X , Flying Now
Charleston, Arkansas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com> |
| Subject: | RE: RV6-List: Fuel Sender Leak |
Hi Harry,
I'm very familiar with that stuff! It's great for many applications, but I
hesitate to use it on my fuel tanks. I don't think it has the flexibility
of the PRC sealants, and since I'm not going to drain the tank to fix this,
I need to use a purpose made sealant that will cure with fuel present, this
is where PR-1435 is excellent. I'm using B1/2 so it sets up in no-time, and
doesn't care about the seaping fuel that is present. Clean the area with
some MEK, and schmutz away!
Thanks for the suggestion, the 3M product has many great uses on RV's!
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
RV6, Minneapolis.
Flying...except the weather won't cooperate!
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv6-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv6-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Harry Hawkins
Subject: Re: RV6-List: Fuel Sender Leak
--> RV6-List message posted by: "Harry Hawkins"
3M makes a product called "structural adhesive" p/n 08101. it would seal
your mother in laws mouth. Work fast it has only two minutes till it
hardens. You will like it for gas leaks.
________________________________________________________________________________
do not forward!
Ed Winne
RV9A
Hershey PA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Galati" <rick07x(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | FW: Spinner Assembly |
----- Original Message -----
From: Rick Galati
Subject: FW: Spinner Assembly
----- Original Message -----
From: Rick Galati
Subject: Spinner Assembly
I purchased the Sensenich bolt-on spinner assembly for my under
construction 6A. None of its parts are interchangeable with the Van's kit
supplied spinner assembly. The front and rear bulkheads are of a
completely different design. There is nothing you have to do to this assembly
other than bolt it to the engine. I upgraded because I want the option of
plating the spinner. Interestingly, Sensenich expressed some concern about
"hydrogen embrittlement" and did not recommend it. They suggest polishing
it to a high luster from time to time. All I know is 12 years ago I
plated the spinner on my C150 and it has held up very well. Anyway, go to
Sensenichs' website for more information.
--- Rick Galati
--- rick07x(at)earthlink.net
--- EarthLink: It's your Internet.
--- Rick Galati
--- rick07x(at)earthlink.net
--- EarthLink: It's your Internet.
--- Rick Galati
--- rick07x(at)earthlink.net
--- EarthLink: It's your Internet.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: static air question |
Extra ports means more tubing, more fittings, more weight, and the
possibility of more leaks and less accuracy.
Use either the dual fuselage ports or the port on the pitot tube. Won't make
much difference until you go to certify your static system. Remember, the
tech charges by the hour to find and seal the leaks to certify.
P.S. Why stop at just 3 if you think additional ports increases accuracy???
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
Always looking for articles for the Experimenter
original Message -----
From: "Charlie and Tupper England" <cengland(at)netdoor.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: static air question
>
> Konrad Werner wrote:
> >
>
> see below...
>
> >
> > Good question Kim,
> >
> > I don't see how too many static sources could be bad in any way, as long
as
> > they are in proven locations on the airframe?
> > Actually combining different sources of "Acceptable Locations" would
give a
> > better average/balance on static pressure, now wouldn't it??
> > But then, I could be way wrong on this theory. Please correct me if
so!!
> >
> > Konrad,
> > ABQ-NM
> >
> > > I am installing the Gretz heated pitot in my RV9. This pitot has a
static
> > > air port. Van's uses ports on the mid/aft fusealge as a source for
static
> > > air. My (probably dumb) question is which pitot source should I use?
> > The
> > > fuse source is easier to troubleshoot if there is a problem yet I can
> > also
> > > argue advantages for using the wing-pitot static source. Can/should I
use
> > > both and connect the wing & fuse static air together?
> > >
> > > Thanks
> > >
> > > Kim Nicholas
> > > RV9A (I can see the light.....)
> > > Seattle
> > >
> > >
> >
> Konrad,
>
> On my RV-4 with 2 flush static ports in Van's recommended fuse. location,
I had
> ~ 10 kt (slow) error in indicated airspeed at cruise & ~ 150 ft (low)
indicated
> altitude at full speed. If you are wondering how I knew, the alt. was set
to
> field elevation & indicated ~150 ft *below* field elevation when making a
high
> speed pass down the runway.
>
> Adding pop-rivet heads over the ports (thanks, Kevin) corrected both the
> airspeed error & the altimeter error.
>
> Would adding another port have changed things again? I don't know, but I'd
bet
> yes.
>
> Charlie
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Austin" <6430(at)axion.net> |
Listers,
I seem to recall some instances of builders having problems
with a Van's voltage regulator.........anyone have any experience with that
?
My regulator was putting out 16.8 V and the small adjustment dealy on
the back gives a TINY adjustment and reduced output hardly at all.......
My regulator may be an older one with a tin box and one field wire attached
to a screw on top, and one other wire out the back......my alternator ( 30
amp ) also has different color and number of wires than my pal has who also
has a Van's kit....
This reg. causes my o/v breaker to pop even during a ground idle...I
pulled the unit out for now, to replace it.....any other incidents out there
?
Austin.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Konrad Werner" <Connywerner(at)wans.net> |
| Subject: | Re: static air question |
Thanks Charlie & Cy for your respective inputs.
Konrad
>
> Extra ports means more tubing, more fittings, more weight, and the
> possibility of more leaks and less accuracy.
> Use either the dual fuselage ports or the port on the pitot tube. Won't
make
> much difference until you go to certify your static system. Remember, the
> tech charges by the hour to find and seal the leaks to certify.
>
> P.S. Why stop at just 3 if you think additional ports increases
accuracy???
> Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
>
> Editor, EAA Safety Programs
> cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
>
>
>
> Konrad,
>
> On my RV-4 with 2 flush static ports in Van's recommended fuse. location,
> I had ~ 10 kt (slow) error in indicated airspeed at cruise & ~ 150 ft
(low)
> indicated altitude at full speed. If you are wondering how I knew, the
alt. was set
> to field elevation & indicated ~150 ft *below* field elevation when making
a
> high speed pass down the runway.
>
> Adding pop-rivet heads over the ports (thanks, Kevin) corrected both the
> airspeed error & the altimeter error.
> Would adding another port have changed things again? I don't know, but I'd
> bet yes.
> Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobby Hester <bhester(at)apex.net> |
| Subject: | Re: DAR Listing ??? |
John wrote:
>
> Because basically your have to have the PERMISSION to make the change from
> the FSDO or a DAR. If you have the newer operations limitations you just do
> the change, log it, go to Phase 1 for 5 hours, and if all is well, just make
> the required log entry. With the old limitations you CANNOT just 'do it' -
> what ever happened to equal treatment under the law??? The DARs want to do a
> full plane inspection - just as if it had never been inspected and charge
> for the whole ball of wax, even though, as you point out, it is merely a
> paper work exercise.
>
> John at Salida, CO
All you have to do is send a copy of your current operation limitations to you
state FAA office and request it be updated with the new wording. They will
create a new operation limitations and send it to you. I did that with my
current experimental (Rans S12xl). No problem!
--
Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
RV7A Working on the wings :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John" <n1cxo320(at)salidaco.com> |
| Subject: | Re: DAR Listing ??? |
I wish that were the case. I did exactly that. I sent the local FSDO office
the complete package. They returned it, said they don't do experimental
stuff anymore, and I should go to a DAR....I felt as if I had been told to
go to h--- ! The FAA FSDO offices all operate differently, largely
depending on staffing levels. I doubt some will ever to back to handling
experimental inspections or anything else connected to experimental. How
nice it is to take tax money and then tell the tax-payers to pay someone
else for the work they are being paid to do.
John at Salida, CO
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bobby Hester" <bhester(at)apex.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: DAR Listing ???
>
> John wrote:
>
> >
> > Because basically your have to have the PERMISSION to make the change
from
> > the FSDO or a DAR. If you have the newer operations limitations you just
do
> > the change, log it, go to Phase 1 for 5 hours, and if all is well, just
make
> > the required log entry. With the old limitations you CANNOT just 'do
t' -
> > what ever happened to equal treatment under the law??? The DARs want to
do a
> > full plane inspection - just as if it had never been inspected and
charge
> > for the whole ball of wax, even though, as you point out, it is merely a
> > paper work exercise.
> >
> > John at Salida, CO
>
> All you have to do is send a copy of your current operation limitations to
you
> state FAA office and request it be updated with the new wording. They will
> create a new operation limitations and send it to you. I did that with my
> current experimental (Rans S12xl). No problem!
>
>
> --
> Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
> Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
> RV7A Working on the wings :-)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John" <n1cxo320(at)salidaco.com> |
| Subject: | Re: DAR Listing ??? |
I DID contact the EAA and the AOPA and neither were much help. The EAA said
they understood my circumstance, but doubted that anything could be done.
They also added that they definately believed the FAA would NEVER issue a
blanket change to operations limitatons to update the older restrictions on
major changes to the newer ones that allow changes in the new simplified
manner. We are just screwed I guess.
The Denver FSDO refuses to do anything for experimental aircraft. AOPA
responded but couldn't offer anything helpful.
John at Salida, CO
----- Original Message -----
From: "Charlie and Tupper England" <cengland(at)netdoor.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: DAR Listing ???
>
> You can get your old op lims changed to the new ones by calling the fsdo &
> explaining what you want, then taking your old op lims to them along with
the
> completed application they mailed to you. They then issue the new
paperwork in
> the office. Been there, done that with an RV-4 built in '92.
>
> If the fsdo resists, call EAA & ask for their assistance in educating the
guys
> at the fsdo.
>
> Charlie
>
>
> John wrote:
> >
> >
> > Because basically your have to have the PERMISSION to make the change
from
> > the FSDO or a DAR. If you have the newer operations limitations you just
do
> > the change, log it, go to Phase 1 for 5 hours, and if all is well, just
make
> > the required log entry. With the old limitations you CANNOT just 'do
t' -
> > what ever happened to equal treatment under the law??? The DARs want to
do a
> > full plane inspection - just as if it had never been inspected and
charge
> > for the whole ball of wax, even though, as you point out, it is merely a
> > paper work exercise.
> >
> > John at Salida, CO
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Jerry Springer" <jsflyrv(at)earthlink.net>
> > To:
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: DAR Listing ???
> >
> > >
> > > John wrote:
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Mike,
> > > >
> > > > Does that mean I can send you the documentation necessary to have my
> > 'old'
> > > > operations limitations changed to match those published in FAA Order
> > > > 8310.2D, Pagagraph 134 (dated 9/30/99), including the changes
published
> > in
> > > > Change 1 to FAA Order 8130.2D (dated 2/15/99) ?
> > > >
> > > > Basically that would be so I can make a change to the aircraft, log
it,
> > stay
> > > > in Phase 1 for 5 hours, and if all is well, make the required log
entry
> > and
> > > > not have to pay someone $500?
> > > >
> > > > As it stands right now the man in the hangar right next to mine,
with
> > the
> > > > exact airplane, having received his airworthiness certificate under
the
> > new
> > > > order, can make changes himself, but me, only 15-feet away, has to
pay
> > some
> > > > guy $500 for 'help' I don't need if we make the precise same
changes.
> > > >
> > > > What's possible? Would the upcoming Experimeintal DAR that goes into
> > effect
> > > > the first of the year or so change what would be possible?
> > > >
> > > > John at Salida, CO
> > > > n1cxo320(at)salidaco.com
> > > >
> > >
> > > John you can do that now, make the changes send a letter to FAA saying
> > what
> > > changes you made. Why would you have to pay someone $500.00?
> > >
> > >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
| Subject: | Re: DAR Listing ??? |
FWIW, the Scottsdale FSDO is pretty helpful. Their inspector there is an
RV-4 builder. He even does inspections and such. Bet he could help you
out.
Gary Towner is his name at the Scottsdale, Arizona FSDO.
Paul Besing
RV-6A Sold (Waiting on the RV-10)
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "John" <n1cxo320(at)salidaco.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: DAR Listing ???
>
> I DID contact the EAA and the AOPA and neither were much help. The EAA
said
> they understood my circumstance, but doubted that anything could be done.
> They also added that they definately believed the FAA would NEVER issue a
> blanket change to operations limitatons to update the older restrictions
on
> major changes to the newer ones that allow changes in the new simplified
> manner. We are just screwed I guess.
> The Denver FSDO refuses to do anything for experimental aircraft. AOPA
> responded but couldn't offer anything helpful.
>
> John at Salida, CO
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Charlie and Tupper England" <cengland(at)netdoor.com>
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: DAR Listing ???
>
>
>
> >
> > You can get your old op lims changed to the new ones by calling the fsdo
&
> > explaining what you want, then taking your old op lims to them along
with
> the
> > completed application they mailed to you. They then issue the new
> paperwork in
> > the office. Been there, done that with an RV-4 built in '92.
> >
> > If the fsdo resists, call EAA & ask for their assistance in educating
the
> guys
> > at the fsdo.
> >
> > Charlie
> >
> >
> > John wrote:
> > >
> > >
> > > Because basically your have to have the PERMISSION to make the change
> from
> > > the FSDO or a DAR. If you have the newer operations limitations you
just
> do
> > > the change, log it, go to Phase 1 for 5 hours, and if all is well,
just
> make
> > > the required log entry. With the old limitations you CANNOT just 'do
> t' -
> > > what ever happened to equal treatment under the law??? The DARs want
to
> do a
> > > full plane inspection - just as if it had never been inspected and
> charge
> > > for the whole ball of wax, even though, as you point out, it is merely
a
> > > paper work exercise.
> > >
> > > John at Salida, CO
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "Jerry Springer" <jsflyrv(at)earthlink.net>
> > > To:
> > > Subject: Re: RV-List: DAR Listing ???
> > >
> > > >
> > > > John wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > Mike,
> > > > >
> > > > > Does that mean I can send you the documentation necessary to have
my
> > > 'old'
> > > > > operations limitations changed to match those published in FAA
Order
> > > > > 8310.2D, Pagagraph 134 (dated 9/30/99), including the changes
> published
> > > in
> > > > > Change 1 to FAA Order 8130.2D (dated 2/15/99) ?
> > > > >
> > > > > Basically that would be so I can make a change to the aircraft,
log
> it,
> > > stay
> > > > > in Phase 1 for 5 hours, and if all is well, make the required log
> entry
> > > and
> > > > > not have to pay someone $500?
> > > > >
> > > > > As it stands right now the man in the hangar right next to mine,
> with
> > > the
> > > > > exact airplane, having received his airworthiness certificate
under
> the
> > > new
> > > > > order, can make changes himself, but me, only 15-feet away, has to
> pay
> > > some
> > > > > guy $500 for 'help' I don't need if we make the precise same
> changes.
> > > > >
> > > > > What's possible? Would the upcoming Experimeintal DAR that goes
into
> > > effect
> > > > > the first of the year or so change what would be possible?
> > > > >
> > > > > John at Salida, CO
> > > > > n1cxo320(at)salidaco.com
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > > John you can do that now, make the changes send a letter to FAA
saying
> > > what
> > > > changes you made. Why would you have to pay someone $500.00?
> > > >
> > > >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: routing the static tubing |
In a message dated 10/19/02 12:01:14 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
Knicholas2(at)aol.com writes:
<< when you guys run the static tubing from teh aft fuse, thru the bulkheads
and along the pilot side cockpit to the panel, are you somehow stuffing the
tube up under the longeron out of sight or just let it stay visable on the
bottom of the longeron. If you are stuffing it up under the U shape
channel, how are you keeping it there? >>
Kim: I drilled holes as high as I could in the seatback bulkhead and the
wing spar carry thru bulkhead (I don't know what these are called in the -9)
for plastic bushings that fit the static tubing snugly. When I pulled the
static tubing through the bushings, with some difficulty because of the tight
fit, there is no tendency for the tubing to sag and it is completely out of
sight under the canopy deck. I used an angle drill with a small head to
reach as high as possible to drill the bushing holes. Hope this helps.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, electrical stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dean Pichon" <DeanPichon(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Looking for IFR RV-4 pilots |
Hi Listers,
I'm considering upgrading my -4 to be IFR capable and would like to talk with someone
who actually flies a -4 in instrument conditions. If one of you guys wouldn't
mind chatting with me briefly, please contact me off-line.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ernest Kells" <ernest.kells(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Van's regulator |
>> I seem to recall some instances of builders having problems with a Van's
voltage regulator...anyone have any experience with that ?
> My regulator was putting out 16.8 V and the small adjustment dealy on
the back gives a TINY adjustment and reduced output hardly at all.......
This discussion confuses me somewhat. Vans offers two voltage regulators.
One only at 13.8 volts, and one that is adjustable. I asked Vans as to
which is appropriate for me. He said that the standard unit would be set to
13.8 only. If I wanted to adjust it to something else sometimes I should
get the variable one. I said that I was only interested in 13.8. He said
"buy it". Are you talking about the apple or the orange????? If you got
the "other" one - is it the one you should adjust???
Ernest Kells - RV-9A O235-N2C, Wood Prop
Finish Kit 70% Complete
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: DAR Listing ??? |
Make an appointment to see a FSDO airworthiness inspector. Carry your packet
in and discuss it. They might just do it on the spot. OR wait until the
Vdar is in place.
----- Original Message -----
From: "John" <n1cxo320(at)salidaco.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: DAR Listing ???
>
> I wish that were the case. I did exactly that. I sent the local FSDO
office
> the complete package. They returned it, said they don't do experimental
> stuff anymore, and I should go to a DAR....I felt as if I had been told to
> go to h--- ! The FAA FSDO offices all operate differently, largely
> depending on staffing levels. I doubt some will ever to back to handling
> experimental inspections or anything else connected to experimental. How
> nice it is to take tax money and then tell the tax-payers to pay someone
> else for the work they are being paid to do.
>
> John at Salida, CO
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Bobby Hester" <bhester(at)apex.net>
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: DAR Listing ???
>
>
> >
> > John wrote:
> >
> > >
> > > Because basically your have to have the PERMISSION to make the change
> from
> > > the FSDO or a DAR. If you have the newer operations limitations you
just
> do
> > > the change, log it, go to Phase 1 for 5 hours, and if all is well,
just
> make
> > > the required log entry. With the old limitations you CANNOT just 'do
> t' -
> > > what ever happened to equal treatment under the law??? The DARs want
to
> do a
> > > full plane inspection - just as if it had never been inspected and
> charge
> > > for the whole ball of wax, even though, as you point out, it is merely
a
> > > paper work exercise.
> > >
> > > John at Salida, CO
> >
> > All you have to do is send a copy of your current operation limitations
to
> you
> > state FAA office and request it be updated with the new wording. They
will
> > create a new operation limitations and send it to you. I did that with
my
> > current experimental (Rans S12xl). No problem!
> >
> >
> > --
> > Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
> > Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
> > RV7A Working on the wings :-)
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard E. Tasker" <retasker(at)optonline.net> |
| Subject: | Elevator trailing edges... |
I am ready to drill my elevator trailing edges and have a question.
According to the directions for drilling, one is supposed to mark a
line 7/32 - 1/4 inch back from the leading edge of the wedge. If I do
this and then line it up with the predrilled holes on teh elevator, the
wedge sticks out from the trailing edge of the skin about 0.050". The
rudder was predrilled and it doesn't stick out at all.
Is this correct? The elevators trailing edge sticks out past the skin
but the rudder doesn't?? Or am I interperting something wrong?
Also, what sort of corrosion prevention is to be used on the trim tab
hinge (if any)? It sort of looks like it is anodized which would need
no additional coating.
Dick, 90573
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Cimino" <jcimino(at)echoes.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Van's regulator |
I have had both on my RV-8 with Van's 35 amp alternator. I got the preset
one first and it worked for about 10 hrs and then went crazy. I talked to
some other people who had it and they also experienced problems with it. I
purchased the adjustable one and set it to 14.1V and have been flying with
it for about 80hrs without a problem.
Jim
Jim Cimino
RV-8 sn 80039 N7TL 85+ Hrs.
http://www.geocities.com/jcimino.geo/
(570)842-4057
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ernest Kells" <ernest.kells(at)sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Van's regulator
>
> >> I seem to recall some instances of builders having problems with a
Van's
> voltage regulator...anyone have any experience with that ?
> > My regulator was putting out 16.8 V and the small adjustment dealy
on
> the back gives a TINY adjustment and reduced output hardly at all.......
>
> This discussion confuses me somewhat. Vans offers two voltage regulators.
> One only at 13.8 volts, and one that is adjustable. I asked Vans as to
> which is appropriate for me. He said that the standard unit would be set
to
> 13.8 only. If I wanted to adjust it to something else sometimes I should
> get the variable one. I said that I was only interested in 13.8. He said
> "buy it". Are you talking about the apple or the orange????? If you got
> the "other" one - is it the one you should adjust???
> Ernest Kells - RV-9A O235-N2C, Wood Prop
> Finish Kit 70% Complete
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | barry pote <barrypote(at)comcast.net> |
do not forward
Barry Pote RV9a finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: DAR Listing ??? |
John at Salida, CO
>
> All you have to do is send a copy of your current operation limitations to
you
> state FAA office and request it be updated with the new wording. They will
> create a new operation limitations and send it to you. I did that with my
> current experimental (Rans S12xl). No problem!
>
>
> --
> Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
> Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
> RV7A Working on the wings :-)
>
Actually, it much depends on your local FSDO. When I had my operating
limitations changed to permit me to make and sign off major changes, the
local FSDO came out and inspected my aircraft again, this was down in NC. I
could not get the FAA FSDO in Washington area to do the original inspection
despite months of effort, so finally hired a DAR.
Ed Anderson
Matthews, NC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sally and George" <aeronut58(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Van's regulator |
My experience, for what it's worth:
I built my RV-8 with the adjustable Van's regulator. It worked for about 25
hours, then failed (in safe mode, not catastrophically). I replaced it with
a Ford automotive regulator, as recommended by Electric Bob Nuckolls and
have had no problems for about 75 hours.
George Kilishek
N888GK
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Ernest Kells" <ernest.kells(at)sympatico.ca>
>To:
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Van's regulator
>
>
>
> >
> > >> I seem to recall some instances of builders having problems with a
>Van's
> > voltage regulator...anyone have any experience with that ?
> > > My regulator was putting out 16.8 V and the small adjustment
>dealy
>on
> > the back gives a TINY adjustment and reduced output hardly at all.......
> >
> > This discussion confuses me somewhat. Vans offers two voltage
>regulators.
> > One only at 13.8 volts, and one that is adjustable. I asked Vans as to
> > which is appropriate for me. He said that the standard unit would be
>set
>to
> > 13.8 only. If I wanted to adjust it to something else sometimes I
>should
> > get the variable one. I said that I was only interested in 13.8. He
>said
> > "buy it". Are you talking about the apple or the orange????? If you
>got
> > the "other" one - is it the one you should adjust???
> > Ernest Kells - RV-9A O235-N2C, Wood Prop
> > Finish Kit 70% Complete
> >
> >
>
>
http://resourcecenter.msn.com/access/plans/default.asp
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
First I've heard of the VDAR. Where can I find out more info?
-
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Cy Galley
> Sent: Sunday, October 20, 2002 6:10 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: DAR Listing ???
>
>
>
> Make an appointment to see a FSDO airworthiness inspector.
> Carry your packet in and discuss it. They might just do it
> on the spot. OR wait until the Vdar is in place.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "John" <n1cxo320(at)salidaco.com>
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: DAR Listing ???
>
>
> >
> > I wish that were the case. I did exactly that. I sent the local FSDO
> office
> > the complete package. They returned it, said they don't do
> > experimental stuff anymore, and I should go to a DAR....I
> felt as if I had been told to
> > go to h--- ! The FAA FSDO offices all operate differently, largely
> > depending on staffing levels. I doubt some will ever to back to
> > handling experimental inspections or anything else connected to
> > experimental. How nice it is to take tax money and then tell the
> > tax-payers to pay someone else for the work they are being
> paid to do.
> >
> > John at Salida, CO
> >
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: DAR Listing ??? |
Sorry, I called it V Dar for volunteer DAR but it has been changed again.
EAA-DEVELOPED AMATEUR-BUILT DAR PROGRAM BEGINS IN DECEMBER
Program Aims to Unclog Logjam of Inspection Requests
A new amateur-built aircraft DAR (Designated Airworthiness
Representative) program, designed to ease the current backlog of
airworthiness inspection requests, will become effective on December 30,
2002. The program, a product of three years of collaboration between EAA and
FAA, will increase the number of inspectors authorized to issue
airworthiness certificates for amateur-built aircraft.
"EAA was eager to help develop and participate in this program, which
will significantly strengthen support for homebuilders by increasing their
access to aircraft inspectors," EAA President Tom Poberezny said.
"Increasing the number of DARs will shorten the time needed for inspection,
enabling builders to fly their aircraft sooner and encourage the continued
growth of homebuilding."
The demand for amateur-built aircraft certification has outgrown FAA
inspector resources in recent years, causing waits of three to six months in
some cases for initial inspections. The amateur-built DAR program addresses
the shortage by creating a new DAR designation for amateur-built (AB)
aircraft certification.
EAA, long recognized for providing technical assistance and training
to homebuilders, is a designated sponsoring organization that may recommend
qualified individuals for AB DAR appointment. AB DAR candidates must possess
current knowledge on fabrication, assembly and operating characteristics of
amateur-built aircraft; speak and write English; and have three technical
and three character references, including one from the sponsoring
organization when applicable. In addition, DAR candidates must hold an FAA
A have built and received
certification for an amateur-built airplane that has flown a minimum of 100
hours; and performed at least three condition inspections on such aircraft.
DAR candidates without A&P certificates must have a minimum of five
years experience as a field technical representative or as an FAA inspector.
New AB DARs are required to attend Transportation Safety Institute
(TSI) amateur-built training (currently being developed by TSI with help
from EAA and FAA) as well as FAA initial standardization training before
performing certifications. For more information on AB DAR certification,
contact your local MIDO (Manufacturing Inspection District Office) or the
MIDO satellite office (MISO).
Current DARs wishing to maintain amateur-built authority should
contact their managing offices in writing to revise their certificates. DARs
can also expand their authority to include amateur-built aircraft by
completing the corresponding TSI training.
The program allows DARs to work outside of their assigned geographic
area after contacting their MIDO and receiving an endorsement.
For more information, contact the EAA Government Relations Office at
888/EAA-INFO, ext. 6522, or govt(at)eaa.org.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: DAR Listing ???
>
> First I've heard of the VDAR. Where can I find out more info?
>
> -
> Larry Bowen
> Larry(at)BowenAero.com
> http://BowenAero.com
>
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Cy Galley
> > Sent: Sunday, October 20, 2002 6:10 PM
> > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: DAR Listing ???
> >
> >
> >
> > Make an appointment to see a FSDO airworthiness inspector.
> > Carry your packet in and discuss it. They might just do it
> > on the spot. OR wait until the Vdar is in place.
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "John" <n1cxo320(at)salidaco.com>
> > To:
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: DAR Listing ???
> >
> >
> > >
> > > I wish that were the case. I did exactly that. I sent the local FSDO
> > office
> > > the complete package. They returned it, said they don't do
> > > experimental stuff anymore, and I should go to a DAR....I
> > felt as if I had been told to
> > > go to h--- ! The FAA FSDO offices all operate differently, largely
> > > depending on staffing levels. I doubt some will ever to back to
> > > handling experimental inspections or anything else connected to
> > > experimental. How nice it is to take tax money and then tell the
> > > tax-payers to pay someone else for the work they are being
> > paid to do.
> > >
> > > John at Salida, CO
> > >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorto1537(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: static air question |
>
>
>I have the Gretz heated pitot in my RV8 and fuselage static ports. I ran
>them separately with a selector valve. I found the static source from the
>pitot accurate, whereas the fuselage ports off by 150' or so and 5 to 10 kts.
>
>Mike Robbins
>RV8Q N88Mj 115 hours
>Seattle area
Mike - just curious - did you use Van's pop rivet static ports, or
flush static ports?
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (cowling, wing tip lights)
Ottawa, Canada
http://members.rogers.com/khorton/rv8.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael J. Robbins" <michael.j.robbins(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: static air question |
Kevin;
I did use Van's pop rivet ports, but I did not locate them per the RV8
drawings. I failed to see the drawing depicting the proper location for
the ports on the 8, and instead used the location on the instruction sheet,
which is for the -6. I naively thought that if they were different for the
8 then Van would have included separate instructions for the 8. I know
better now. So in my case they aren't in the right place, so I guess
that's why they don't work.
Mike Robbins
>Mike - just curious - did you use Van's pop rivet static ports, or
>flush static ports?
>--
>Kevin Horton RV-8 (cowling, wing tip lights)
>Ottawa, Canada
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave von Linsowe" <davevon(at)tir.com> |
| Subject: | constant speed prop diameters |
Hi guys,
I have a couple of questions concerning constant speed prop diameters.
First, is there anyone out there running a Hartzell clipped to 68"?
I would think that the smaller diameter would allow more pitch in cruise and
more speed. An engineer at Hartzell says no. He says to run the largest
diameter possible for more speed. He claims that the effect of the
increased parasitic drag of the fuselage goes up more with the smaller
diameter prop. Although it doesn't seem to really hold true from the
results seen with fix pitch props. I would think that there would be an
ideal diameter for each airplane based on parasitic drag of the fuselage and
cruise speed. The lower drag of a RV as compared to a Cessna I think would
lend itself to a smaller diameter. It is obvious that the larger diameter
would have a big effect on climb.
Second question, has anyone tried different diameter Hartzell C/S props on
the same airplane? (apples to apples comparison)
Thanks,
Dave
RV-6 O-360 C/S, tip up
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Van's regulator |
Sally and George wrote:
>
>
> My experience, for what it's worth:
>
> I built my RV-8 with the adjustable Van's regulator. It worked for about 25
> hours, then failed (in safe mode, not catastrophically). I replaced it with
> a Ford automotive regulator, as recommended by Electric Bob Nuckolls and
> have had no problems for about 75 hours.
>
> George Kilishek
> N888GK
>
I have been flying the mid-70's Ford regulator for 430 hrs with no
hiccups (I hope I didn't just jinx it....). Neat thing about the Ford
regulator is that I can replace it at any airport where I can bum a ride
to the nearest auto parts store, and, it costs less than ten dollars.
I also use 'Lectric Bob's overvoltage module.
Sam Buchanan
http://thervjournal.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorto1537(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: static air question |
Yeah, the accuracy of aft fuselage static ports varies greatly
depending on where they are located. So this could be why they
aren't accurate in your case.
Kevin
>
>
>
>Kevin;
>
>I did use Van's pop rivet ports, but I did not locate them per the RV8
>drawings. I failed to see the drawing depicting the proper location for
>the ports on the 8, and instead used the location on the instruction sheet,
>which is for the -6. I naively thought that if they were different for the
>8 then Van would have included separate instructions for the 8. I know
>better now. So in my case they aren't in the right place, so I guess
>that's why they don't work.
>
>Mike Robbins
>
>
>>Mike - just curious - did you use Van's pop rivet static ports, or
>>flush static ports?
>>--
>>Kevin Horton RV-8 (cowling, wing tip lights)
> >Ottawa, Canada
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Calvert" <rv6(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | primer sealer/filler |
On Fiberglass , what primer sealer or filler is compatible with Sherwin Williams
Jet Glow paint?
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok
-6 N296JC (res)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | F804N side channel cap - when? |
When is it too soon or too late to install the F804N side channel cap?
Thats the cover that is pop rivetted on the side of the center section.
I was going to install the throttle quad tonight, but realized a couple
of the pop rivets in the channel cap would not be able to be pulled with
the quadrant in the way. Thus I concluded the channel cap must be
installed before the quadrant. Right? The rear quadrant is installed.
I haven't fit my wings yet -- not sure if that's a factor or not. What
a puzzle!
Thanks.
-
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jaye and Scott Jackson <jayeandscott(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Full-swivel tailwheel |
After only 35 hours of use, my full-swivel tailwheel is refusing to relock after
a tight turn. Eventually does when I get out and wiggle the rudder gently either
side of straight-ahead. Every thing appears to work properly, but I wonder
if the grease I added at the 25hr oilchange and service may have compressed
or jammed up the spring behind the locking pin.
Anyone have any experience with this?
Thanks,
Scott in VAncouver
still learnin'
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jaye and Scott Jackson <jayeandscott(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Van's oil temp gauge |
Just a heads' up for those using the Van's oil temp gauge.
A colleague called last week for help in troubleshooting a sudden 30-degree rise
in oil temperature.
We tried the usual" remove the sender and immerse in boiling water" routine and
the gauge indicated about 205F without the engine running.
Put it back together and went flying on a 20C day. Sure enough, the oil temp climbed
to about 225F before stabilizing. This RV has over 800hrs on it using this
same engine and it has never behaved like this.
Orbiting within gliding distance of the airport, the owner and I scratched our
heads. I finally realized that the only difference now from when we tested it
on the ground was the bus voltage. I turned off the alternator and the oil temperature
immediately fell about 30F back to a more normal reading. Re-energizing
the alternator caused the temp to climb back up again.
To their credit, Van's immediately shipped out another gauge.
Something to consider before ordering a larger oil cooler or something even more
drastic.
SCott in Vancouver
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jaye and Scott Jackson <jayeandscott(at)shaw.ca> |
Re: the recent thread about Simple Green or Fantastic Orange to remove bugs from
the painted surfaces:
I've been trying out a new product here in Canada which is an automotive windshield-washing
fluid with something called "Bug Wash" added.
I just wipe it on the leading edges using a small synthetic sponge and, when reaching
the other end of the wing, start over again with a light scrubbing action
and the remains just wipe off.
Might be kinder to the paint than the above products...
Scott in Vancouver
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LeastDrag93066(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: constant speed prop diameters |
Hi All,
I have flown the same three propeller blades at the original 76" diameter,
and gradually trimmed them equally to the smallest diameter of 66" diameter.
I have flown these blades as both a three blade prop and as a two blade prop.
On my RV-3, I can make the following generalizations:
The largest diameter allowing the max 2700 RPM gave the best climb rate.
The smallest diameter (down to 66") gave the highest speed.
For the prop I was testing, a 6" smaller diameter three blade prop gave the
same speed as a two blade prop.
BTW, The prop I was running was NOT a metal prop.
The manufacturer gave me special instructions for my installation, so it
would be legal for me to make the prop modifications.
Jim Ayers
RV-3 N47RV Maroon Marauder
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert scott" <rscott(at)johnsonmfginc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV9-List: Elevator trailing edges... |
Mine extended out aprox. .025/.040. I just filed, block sanded and scotch
brighted the AEX flush with the skin after assembly.
Robert Scott
N472RV Reserved
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard E. Tasker" <retasker(at)optonline.net>
Subject: RV9-List: Elevator trailing edges...
> --> RV9-List message posted by: "Richard E. Tasker"
>
> I am ready to drill my elevator trailing edges and have a question.
> According to the directions for drilling, one is supposed to mark a
> line 7/32 - 1/4 inch back from the leading edge of the wedge. If I do
> this and then line it up with the predrilled holes on teh elevator, the
> wedge sticks out from the trailing edge of the skin about 0.050". The
> rudder was predrilled and it doesn't stick out at all.
>
> Is this correct? The elevators trailing edge sticks out past the skin
> but the rudder doesn't?? Or am I interperting something wrong?
>
> Also, what sort of corrosion prevention is to be used on the trim tab
> hinge (if any)? It sort of looks like it is anodized which would need
> no additional coating.
>
> Dick, 90573
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "flyseaplane" <flyseaplane(at)netzero.net> |
| Subject: | RV6-List GREEN LOCTITE |
Dear Dan Eikleberry,
Green Loctite is not rare at all. Any AutoZone auto parts store carries it,
It is $4.99 plus tax in central Texas.
Let us know if it works. I tried Super Glue once (the really thin stuff) and
it stopped about 95% of the leak. There was still a tiny little weep left
where a few molecules of gas were getting through, but for the most part
stopped it.
Good Luck,
Linc
-------------------------------------------
Introducing NetZero Long Distance
Unlimited Long Distance only $29.95/ month!
Sign Up Today! www.netzerolongdistance.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary" <rv9er(at)3rivers.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV9-List: Elevator trailing edges... |
I would say line the wedge up where you like the fit, and don't worry about the
dimension. .050 sticking out is not going to look too good. Just make sure
you don't go too far the other way, or your holes will be in a portion of the
wedge that is too thin.
The hinges are anodized. I didn't prime them. You can determine whether aluminum
is anodized with an ohmmeter. Anodizing is Aluminum Oxide, and non-conductive......but
very thin.
Gary 90263
--> RV9-List message posted by: "Richard E. Tasker"
I am ready to drill my elevator trailing edges and have a question.
According to the directions for drilling, one is supposed to mark a
line 7/32 - 1/4 inch back from the leading edge of the wedge. If I do
this and then line it up with the predrilled holes on teh elevator, the
wedge sticks out from the trailing edge of the skin about 0.050". The
rudder was predrilled and it doesn't stick out at all.
Is this correct? The elevators trailing edge sticks out past the skin
but the rudder doesn't?? Or am I interperting something wrong?
Also, what sort of corrosion prevention is to be used on the trim tab
hinge (if any)? It sort of looks like it is anodized which would need
no additional coating.
Dick, 90573
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert scott" <rscott(at)johnsonmfginc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV9-List: Elevator trailing edges... |
Mine extended out aprox. .025/.040. I just filed, block sanded and scotch
brighted the AEX flush with the skin after assembly.
Robert Scott
N472RV Reserved
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard E. Tasker" <retasker(at)optonline.net>
Subject: RV9-List: Elevator trailing edges...
> --> RV9-List message posted by: "Richard E. Tasker"
>
> I am ready to drill my elevator trailing edges and have a question.
> According to the directions for drilling, one is supposed to mark a
> line 7/32 - 1/4 inch back from the leading edge of the wedge. If I do
> this and then line it up with the predrilled holes on teh elevator, the
> wedge sticks out from the trailing edge of the skin about 0.050". The
> rudder was predrilled and it doesn't stick out at all.
>
> Is this correct? The elevators trailing edge sticks out past the skin
> but the rudder doesn't?? Or am I interperting something wrong?
>
> Also, what sort of corrosion prevention is to be used on the trim tab
> hinge (if any)? It sort of looks like it is anodized which would need
> no additional coating.
>
> Dick, 90573
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Nouj <nouj(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | RV7-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 10/19/02 |
Not forward
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | P M Condon <pcondon(at)mitre.org> |
http://www.mountainscope.com/
Another handheld PDA based electronic flight instrument/maping (EFIS)
option. Has some kept a list of all of these new toys/offerings. There
is more then a handfull of these offerings now; which is great. Don'r
forget the garman 196 too.....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sally and George" <aeronut58(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Van's regulator |
Forgot to mention: the Ford alternator cost less than $10 at Auto Zone.
George
>From: "Sally and George" <aeronut58(at)hotmail.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Van's regulator
>Date: Sun, 20 Oct 2002 18:54:01 -0500
>
>
>My experience, for what it's worth:
>
>I built my RV-8 with the adjustable Van's regulator. It worked for about
>25
>hours, then failed (in safe mode, not catastrophically). I replaced it
>with
>a Ford automotive regulator, as recommended by Electric Bob Nuckolls and
>have had no problems for about 75 hours.
>
>George Kilishek
>N888GK
>
>
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: "Ernest Kells" <ernest.kells(at)sympatico.ca>
> >To:
> >Subject: Re: RV-List: Van's regulator
> >
> >
> >
> > >
> > > >> I seem to recall some instances of builders having problems with a
> >Van's
> > > voltage regulator...anyone have any experience with that ?
> > > > My regulator was putting out 16.8 V and the small adjustment
> >dealy
> >on
> > > the back gives a TINY adjustment and reduced output hardly at
>all.......
> > >
> > > This discussion confuses me somewhat. Vans offers two voltage
> >regulators.
> > > One only at 13.8 volts, and one that is adjustable. I asked Vans as
>to
> > > which is appropriate for me. He said that the standard unit would be
> >set
> >to
> > > 13.8 only. If I wanted to adjust it to something else sometimes I
> >should
> > > get the variable one. I said that I was only interested in 13.8. He
> >said
> > > "buy it". Are you talking about the apple or the orange????? If you
> >got
> > > the "other" one - is it the one you should adjust???
> > > Ernest Kells - RV-9A O235-N2C, Wood Prop
> > > Finish Kit 70% Complete
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
>http://resourcecenter.msn.com/access/plans/default.asp
>
>
http://resourcecenter.msn.com/access/plans/default.asp
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mark Phillips <ripsteel(at)edge.net> |
| Subject: | Re: constant speed prop diameters |
Dave von Linsowe wrote:
> I would think that the smaller diameter would allow more pitch in cruise and
> more speed. An engineer at Hartzell says no. He says to run the largest
> diameter possible for more speed. He claims that the effect of the
> increased parasitic drag of the fuselage goes up more with the smaller
> diameter prop.
...and I would assume the ratio of disc area vs. fuse frontal area would favor
the tandem models. Considering a fixed pitch 3-blade pitched for cruise on a
-6/6A, does anyone have any actual experience on top speed performance for this
combination vs. fixed pitch 2-blade, assuming well designed and built props are
part of the equation? (Performance Props and Catto as examples) I am buying
soon and interested in a 3-blade, primarily for noise reduction, provided cruise
speed does not suffer- I have seen references to reduced climb rate, but this
would be an acceptable trade off.
Thanks for any thoughts before I cut another big check!
Mark Phillips - Columbia, TN - dusting off the engine mount, looking for
bolts...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Andres" <tim2542(at)charter.net> |
In searching for a new oil temp sender for my 0-360, I found a
Mitchell sender # ps 211-8045 with the correct thread (5/8-18) and resistance.
The Approved Piper
part is not available, (it's made from "Unobtainium") These senders seal via
a flange
and gasket (AN copper washer), not via the thread like Pipe thread does. My concern
is that the old sender has a significantly larger sealing surface (flange) than
the new one.
The new sender just barely overlaps the sealing washer, however it does not leak.
I
have talked to Mitchell about it but they seemed unconcerned or interested.
He did tell me that they have never had a problem with it and it is correct
for Lycoming engines. Anybody run into this? Any ideas? heres a picture of it,
http://www.chiefaircraft.com/Aircraft/Aircraft.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Full-swivel tailwheel |
> After only 35 hours of use, my full-swivel tailwheel is refusing to
> relock after a tight turn.
[snip]
> Anyone have any experience with this?
I haven't had that specific problem but I have found that I need to service
the swivel mechanism every 40-50 hours or so. It generally dries out and
starts sticking by then, progressively getting worse as time goes on, and if
I let it go very long rust sets in that needs to be polished out. Greasing
through the zerk fitting doesn't seem to be adequate; I need to take it
apart and clean it all out and smear new grease on by hand. It is hangared,
and no I don't fly off non-paved strips all that often (well there was that
beach this summer, and the gravel quarry, and... well, thats another story.)
May sound like a pain but I must say that its become kind of a nice ritual
for me. One of those "tailwheel guy" quirks I guess... :-)
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~400 hrs)
Portland, OR
www.vanshomewing.org
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill" <n8wv(at)hotmail.com> |
I have been thinking of ways to get better performance out of my 150 HP -8A, and
this morning put together a page on my web site with some power info... Please
have a look and let me know if I screwed anything up...
Also, as always your comments are welcome...
http://vondane.com/flightdata/powerinfo.htm
-Bill
www.vondane.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael J. Robbins" <michael.j.robbins(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Removing bugs |
Buy some RejeX. Just use water to remove bugs. Works great. Covered my
whole plane with it.
Mike Robbins
RV8 N88MJ 115 hrs
do not achive
>
>Re: the recent thread about Simple Green or Fantastic Orange to remove
>bugs from the painted surfaces:
>
> I've been trying out a new product here in Canada which is an
> automotive windshield-washing fluid with something called "Bug Wash" added.
>I just wipe it on the leading edges using a small synthetic sponge and,
>when reaching the other end of the wing, start over again with a light
>scrubbing action and the remains just wipe off.
>Might be kinder to the paint than the above products...
>Scott in Vancouver
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Hawkins <lhawkins(at)giant.com> |
| Subject: | Full-swivel tailwheel |
Come on Randall we want to hear about the beach..... and the gravel quarry.
-----Original Message-----
From: Randall Henderson [mailto:randallh(at)attbi.com]
Subject: Re: RV-List: Full-swivel tailwheel
> After only 35 hours of use, my full-swivel tailwheel is refusing to
> relock after a tight turn.
[snip]
> Anyone have any experience with this?
I haven't had that specific problem but I have found that I need to service
the swivel mechanism every 40-50 hours or so. It generally dries out and
starts sticking by then, progressively getting worse as time goes on, and if
I let it go very long rust sets in that needs to be polished out. Greasing
through the zerk fitting doesn't seem to be adequate; I need to take it
apart and clean it all out and smear new grease on by hand. It is hangared,
and no I don't fly off non-paved strips all that often (well there was that
beach this summer, and the gravel quarry, and... well, thats another story.)
May sound like a pain but I must say that its become kind of a nice ritual
for me. One of those "tailwheel guy" quirks I guess... :-)
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~400 hrs)
Portland, OR
www.vanshomewing.org
RE: RV-List: Full-swivel tailwheel
Come on Randall we want to hear about the beach..... and the gravel quarry.
-----Original Message-----
From: Randall Henderson [<A HREF"mailto:randallh(at)attbi.com">mailto:randallh(at)attbi.com]
Subject: Re: RV-List: Full-swivel tailwheel
-- RV-List message posted by: Randall Henderson randallh(at)attbi.com
After only 35 hours of use, my full-swivel tailwheel is refusing to
relock after a tight turn.
[snip]
Anyone have any experience with this?
I haven't had that specific problem but I have found that I need to service
the swivel mechanism every 40-50 hours or so. It generally dries out and
starts sticking by then, progressively getting worse as time goes on, and if
I let it go very long rust sets in that needs to be polished out. Greasing
through the zerk fitting doesn't seem to be adequate; I need to take it
apart and clean it all out and smear new grease on by hand. It is hangared,
and no I don't fly off non-paved strips all that often (well there was that
beach this summer, and the gravel quarry, and... well, thats another story.)
May sound like a pain but I must say that its become kind of a nice ritual
for me. One of those tailwheel guy quirks I guess... :-)
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~400 hrs)
Portland, OR
www.vanshomewing.org
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Full-swivel tailwheel |
After 250 hrs or so mine showed galling on the post surface in spite of
keeping it fairly well greased with hi-temp disc brake grease. Tom Green
says oil is the best lubricant because the bronze bushing is Oil-Lite
(spelling?) which is impregnated with oil. He says grease will not penetrate
the pores like oil will. So I bought a new fork/post assembly and have been
using oil since then... too soon for any results.
FWIW,
Randy Lervold, RV-8, 273 hrs.
> > After only 35 hours of use, my full-swivel tailwheel is refusing to
> > relock after a tight turn.
> [snip]
> > Anyone have any experience with this?
>
> I haven't had that specific problem but I have found that I need to
service
> the swivel mechanism every 40-50 hours or so. It generally dries out and
> starts sticking by then, progressively getting worse as time goes on, and
if
> I let it go very long rust sets in that needs to be polished out. Greasing
> through the zerk fitting doesn't seem to be adequate; I need to take it
> apart and clean it all out and smear new grease on by hand. It is
hangared,
> and no I don't fly off non-paved strips all that often (well there was
that
> beach this summer, and the gravel quarry, and... well, thats another
story.)
>
> May sound like a pain but I must say that its become kind of a nice ritual
> for me. One of those "tailwheel guy" quirks I guess... :-)
>
> Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~400 hrs)
> Portland, OR
> www.vanshomewing.org
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave von Linsowe" <davevon(at)tir.com> |
Hi guys,
At one of the dawn patrols this summer, a RV-6 was there that had the comm
antennas in the leading edge of each gear leg (fiber glass fairings). The
owner said it worked great. We did some air to air and he sounded fine even
when he was out ahead of me.
Has anyone had any experience with trying this?
Thanks,
Dave
RV-6, 180hp, tip-up
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | CRomine656(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | W-730 Bellcrank Jig |
It looks like the jig stays in the wing until after the wings are completely
finished (it is mentioned again when fitting the wing tip). What about the
second wing and aileron alignment? Do we make another jig, or is everyone
removing the supplied piece and reinstalling it when necessary?
Chris Romine
RV-7A Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russ Werner" <russ(at)maui.net> |
| Subject: | Electric Aileron Trim RV8 style |
Can anyone having experience with the RV8 electric aileron trim kit using
the "sliding tube" comment on the spring pressures? Specifically I am
interested in the springs Vans sent in your kit. Mine are quite strong and
appear (contrary to earlier list posts) that they will impart excessive
pressures on the controls. Mine are each 3 inches long (total) and the kit
preloads them to about 4 inches. On the bench that is a very hard pull. At
full aileron deflection, (my wings aren't on so I have to guess how far the
stick needs to move to get there) they will be stretched to about 5 or more
inches.
I guess if they are too stiff I can get lighter ones of the same length but
I thought I'd get comments from those with experience.
Thanks,
Russ Werner
HRII
Maui
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: W-730 Bellcrank Jig |
I set the bellcrank-to-aileron pushrod length on each wing with the
alignment tool and that's it for now. The inner pushrods will get attached
and rigged later (they're up on the wall for now). No sense in doing all
this rigging now when it has to happen later anyway. Just an opinion,
though.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D (fuselage)
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: <CRomine656(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: W-730 Bellcrank Jig
>
> It looks like the jig stays in the wing until after the wings are
completely
> finished (it is mentioned again when fitting the wing tip). What about
the
> second wing and aileron alignment? Do we make another jig, or is everyone
> removing the supplied piece and reinstalling it when necessary?
>
> Chris Romine
> RV-7A Wings
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: primer sealer/filler |
| From: | Don R Jordan <dons6a(at)juno.com> |
Jerry:
I would stay with the SW line. I used a lower cost line i found in the
Dupont store. They said it was the same as Dupont's line, but a lot
cheaper.
It was Eurocoat. I really like it.
Don Jordan - RV6A - N6DJ
Arlington, Tx
>
> On Fiberglass , what primer sealer or filler is compatible with
> Sherwin Williams Jet Glow paint?
>
> Jerry Calvert
> Edmond Ok
> -6 N296JC (res)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joe Hine" <joehine(at)nbnet.nb.ca> |
| Subject: | Another good engine scorce |
Listers
I just thought I would pass along another good engine shop that would be
worth getting a quote from if you are looking for an engine. This is a
canadian shop in Halifax Nova Scotia and he has a number of engines in stock
that he would build up for homebuilts. He is calling them homebuilt engines
because he has a stock of engine parts he has bought at auctions and cannot
legally put them in certified engines. This is a shop that also builds
certified engines and all his engines come with a warrenty. I have delt
with the owner myself and have no reservations in directing you to him. If
I was looking for an engine this is where I would be going. I have no
connection with this business other than customer.
The shop is Aerotec Engines, the owner is Jason Crowell. Their numbers are
902-873-3100,phone 902-873-3101 fax and their email address is
aerotec(at)dbis.ns.ca.
Good Luck.
Joe Hine
RV4 C-FYTQ
aerotec(at)dbis.ns.ca
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV7-List: RV7-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 10/19/02 |
??
----- Original Message -----
From: "Nouj" <nouj(at)compuserve.com>
Subject: RV7-List: RV7-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 10/19/02
> --> RV7-List message posted by: Nouj
>
> Not forward
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob W M Shipley" <Rob(at)RobsGlass.com> |
I've been waiting for this thread to die but it's proven quite durable.
My 2 cents. I've put a MAC electric trim servo in the stab on my 9A and been planning
a dual voltage supply switched by a microswitch on the flap mechanism
in order to give two different rates of adjustment. This was as a result of the
experiences reported on the list with difficulty at higher speeds in getting
accurate trim settings.
I will not be bothering with this unless I find it necessary.
I flew the factory 9A at Copperstate and found no difficulty at all in getting
the trim where I wanted it. A nudge one way or the other was all that was needed.
Much better than my previous experience with cable operated trim systems.
Rob
Rob W M Shipley.
RV9A fuselage. N919RV resvd.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Parker43rp(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Electric Aileron Trim RV8 style |
Russ---- I am concerned also that the aileron trim springs are excessively
strong,although I have yet to mount them. Let us know what you find out.
---Ray
________________________________________________________________________________
has anyone tried the ivo in flight magnum propeller unit on an rv-4?
dan carley
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carlfro(at)erols.com> |
| Subject: | Electric Aileron Trim RV8 style |
Russ,
These are the correct springs - and they work as advertised. You will
not
notice the spring pressure when flying. You need to make sure you zero
(center) the trim when you go to rig your ailerons. I am currently chasing
a rigging problem with mine (adjust one side, screw up the other, etc.).
Of interest, I flew the first 20 hours or so without touching the aileron
trim. Once I started testing with one tank full, the other near empty and
such it came in handy.
I also have the Navaid Wing leveler - if you have this installed you may
want to forgo the trim kit altogether. I like having both however.
Carl Froehlich
RV8A (flying - 40 hour flyoff completed Saturday)
Vienna, VA
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Russ Werner
Subject: RV-List: Electric Aileron Trim RV8 style
Can anyone having experience with the RV8 electric aileron trim kit using
the "sliding tube" comment on the spring pressures? Specifically I am
interested in the springs Vans sent in your kit. Mine are quite strong and
appear (contrary to earlier list posts) that they will impart excessive
pressures on the controls. Mine are each 3 inches long (total) and the kit
preloads them to about 4 inches. On the bench that is a very hard pull. At
full aileron deflection, (my wings aren't on so I have to guess how far the
stick needs to move to get there) they will be stretched to about 5 or more
inches.
I guess if they are too stiff I can get lighter ones of the same length but
I thought I'd get comments from those with experience.
Thanks,
Russ Werner
HRII
Maui
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us> |
Stein,
My right tank did the same thing, I just cleaned and covered the whole
sending unit with proseal. Now there's a wire coming out of a blob on the
side of the tank, but no fuel.
If I ever have to service it the tank is coming off, but it probably would
have to anyway.
W
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan DeNeal <rv6apilot(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | How do you start an engine thats been sitting a long time? |
I have an engine that was overhauled in 1994 and has
been pickled all this time. We took off the sump and
looked inside. Everything looked great. So now that I
have drained all the oil out and put mineral oil in,
what else do I need to do to make sure theirs no metal
against metal?
Their is not much comprassion, as I am told the rings
are not set yet.
Dan DeNeal
Y! Web Hosting - Let the expert host your web site
http://webhosting.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.cc.ca.us> |
Lead acid battery's do not do well with any voltage source that is more than
one volt over fully charged which is 12.68v or 2.11v per cell.
It is a function of the galvanic response between lead and lead oxide. The
adjustable V-reg is the only way to be sure you are at 13.68V. I have never
seen a fixed V-reg sit at this in thirty years of working on charging
systems.
Anything more than 13.68V will shorten the life of your battery as the extra
voltage causes extra current which translates into extra heat which dries
out the battery. It also tends to sulfate the plates faster than normal.
And finally, the extra voltage will shorten the life of all your light bulbs
and electric motors as they are also not designed to work at higher
voltages. Most digital circuits correct for this so they will be OK.
W
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Power Chart... |
Bill:
Looks good to me.
Eustace
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill" <n8wv(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: Power Chart...
>
> I have been thinking of ways to get better performance out of my 150
HP -8A, and this morning put together a page on my web site with some power
info... Please have a look and let me know if I screwed anything up...
>
> Also, as always your comments are welcome...
>
> http://vondane.com/flightdata/powerinfo.htm
>
> -Bill
> www.vondane.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Davis" <rvpilot(at)mpinet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Electric Aileron Trim RV8 style |
Russ,
Install it as designed, it will work fine. You will not even notice the
spring loads when flying and hardly notice them when on the ground due to
the leverage of the stick. That much tension is necessary in order to
balance out unequal fuel quantities.
Bill, RV-8 N48WD
----- Original Message -----
From: "Russ Werner" <russ(at)maui.net>
Subject: RV-List: Electric Aileron Trim RV8 style
>
> Can anyone having experience with the RV8 electric aileron trim kit using
> the "sliding tube" comment on the spring pressures? Specifically I am
> interested in the springs Vans sent in your kit. Mine are quite strong
and
> appear (contrary to earlier list posts) that they will impart excessive
> pressures on the controls. Mine are each 3 inches long (total) and the
kit
> preloads them to about 4 inches. On the bench that is a very hard pull.
At
> full aileron deflection, (my wings aren't on so I have to guess how far
the
> stick needs to move to get there) they will be stretched to about 5 or
more
> inches.
>
> I guess if they are too stiff I can get lighter ones of the same length
but
> I thought I'd get comments from those with experience.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Russ Werner
> HRII
> Maui
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay(at)jetstream.net> |
| Subject: | Re: How do you start an engine thats been sitting a long time? |
Hi Dan:
I would not start it without preoiling it. This is done by forcing oil
(preferable warm oil) through the entire oil system.The inside of the
cylinders will also need preoiling. I would give Bart Lalonde a call at 250
376 1223 and get his instructions on how to handle a situation such as
yours.
I was in Aero Sport Power's facility today and saw the results of starting
an engine that had not been properly cared for while in long term storage.
It will probably cost in the area of $5000.00 to repair the damage.
Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan DeNeal" <rv6apilot(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: RV-List: How do you start an engine thats been sitting a long time?
>
> I have an engine that was overhauled in 1994 and has
> been pickled all this time. We took off the sump and
> looked inside. Everything looked great. So now that I
> have drained all the oil out and put mineral oil in,
> what else do I need to do to make sure theirs no metal
> against metal?
>
> Their is not much comprassion, as I am told the rings
> are not set yet.
>
> Dan DeNeal
>
> http://webhosting.yahoo.com/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Oldsfolks(at)aol.com |
You don't have to use 30's lead-acid battery technology in your experimental
aircraft. The Odyssey battery is hunreds of percent better and it doesn't
spill.
See : odysseybattery.com
RV-4 , N1191X , Flying Now
Charleston, Arkansas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
| Subject: | Re: How do you start an engine thats been sitting a long time? |
I pre oiled mine by using a garden sprayer. I put oil in the sprayer, and
connected it to the oil return fitting on the back of the engine. Pump up
the sprayer and let it slowly creep it's way through the engine. Put a few
squirts of oil in the spark plug holes, and crank the engine a few times
with the plugs removed to get oil pressure up. Then fire her up and get the
grin!
Paul Besing
RV-6A Sold (Waiting on the RV-10)
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan DeNeal" <rv6apilot(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: RV-List: How do you start an engine thats been sitting a long time?
>
> I have an engine that was overhauled in 1994 and has
> been pickled all this time. We took off the sump and
> looked inside. Everything looked great. So now that I
> have drained all the oil out and put mineral oil in,
> what else do I need to do to make sure theirs no metal
> against metal?
>
> Their is not much comprassion, as I am told the rings
> are not set yet.
>
> Dan DeNeal
>
> http://webhosting.yahoo.com/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Bundy" <ebundy(at)velocitus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: constant speed prop diameters |
Generally speaking, a 3 bladed prop is not as efficient as a 2 blade. I
believe it has something to do with each blade hitting the disturbed air
from the previous blade sooner, and with less forward travel before it hits
it. I'm not positive on this however. I do know from personal experience
changing from a 2 blade to a 3 blade on a C182 lowered the climb rate very
slightly, and cruise/top speed was also slightly less. However, there was a
BIG improvement in smoothness. 3 blades smoothed out the firing pulses on
the engine much better than 2. IIRC, the climb rate suffered something less
than 100fpm, and cruise was a few knots.
Ed Bundy RV6A 500+ hours
Boise, ID
> the tandem models. Considering a fixed pitch 3-blade pitched for cruise
on a
> -6/6A, does anyone have any actual experience on top speed performance for
this
> combination vs. fixed pitch 2-blade, assuming well designed and built
props are
> part of the equation? (Performance Props and Catto as examples) I am
buying
> soon and interested in a 3-blade, primarily for noise reduction, provided
cruise
> speed does not suffer- I have seen references to reduced climb rate, but
this
> would be an acceptable trade off.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill VonDane" <n8wv(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: ivo propeller |
I just sent an email to IVO this morning, and they told there was NO chance
that they would sell an IVO for a Lycoming...
-Bill
www.vondane.com
----- Original Message -----
From: <DFCPAC(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: ivo propeller
has anyone tried the ivo in flight magnum propeller unit on an rv-4?
dan carley
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JDaniel343(at)aol.com |
Maybe I'm wrong, but I thought the sealed batteries required something like
14.5 volts of charging power or they won't last but a couple of years.
John Danielson
N106WP 90 Hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | TruTrak control stops |
For those using the TruTrak APs:
Are you using the stops that come with, and mount to, the servos, or
relying on the control stops on your RV? If both, wouldn't they have to
be calibrated to be equal -- both allowing exactly xx.x degrees of
travel, for example? Seems like that would be hard to do accomplish...
-
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Aronson <aronsond(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: TruTrak control stops |
Listers:
Concerning the stops. I have installed a Trutrack in my RV4. No way could
I use the stock stops. I fabricated new ones out of angle stock. The stops
prevent an over-center condition. I do not see them needing to be exactly
equal distant in range. Your built in stops are probably going to be about
the same, maybe a little outside the perameters of the stops on the Trutrak.
The installation instructions advise that it is OK to use your built in
control stops if you cannot fit stops on the unit. Just set them up as
directed and it seems to work fine.
Dave Aronson
RV4 N504RV
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com>
Subject: RV-List: TruTrak control stops
>
> For those using the TruTrak APs:
>
> Are you using the stops that come with, and mount to, the servos, or
> relying on the control stops on your RV? If both, wouldn't they have to
> be calibrated to be equal -- both allowing exactly xx.x degrees of
> travel, for example? Seems like that would be hard to do accomplish...
>
> -
> Larry Bowen
> Larry(at)BowenAero.com
> http://BowenAero.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LessDragProd(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV4-List: ivo propeller |
Hi Dan,
I've been flying the Ivoprop Magnum electric prop since Dec. 1995 on my RV-3.
Is that close enough to a RV-4?
I don't believe Ivo is selling their prop for four cylinder four cycle
engines, and engines with certain gear boxes. Check with them at
http://www.ivoprop.com
Jim Ayers
RV-3 N47RV LOM M332A engine 140 HP at 2700RPM and 35"MP
(Love that supercharger! :-) )
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "flyseaplane" <flyseaplane(at)netzero.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV4-List: ivo propeller |
As far as the Ivo Prop goes, the LOM inline engine is a great candidate. It
seems to run a lot smoother than the Lycomings. I seem to remember talking
to a guy in Montana a few years ago that had the Ivo electric prop on an
Avid Magnum and was having problems with it. Just to much engine for a
flimsy prop design.
I love my Warp Drive 72" 3-blade ground adjustable. Lots of Murphy Rebel
guys run them on 150-160 HP. Its great for STOL planes, I wonder if anyone
has ever put one on an RV????
------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------------------------------
I don't believe Ivo is selling their prop for four cylinder four cycle
> engines, and engines with certain gear boxes. Check with them at
> http://www.ivoprop.com
>
> Jim Ayers
> RV-3 N47RV LOM M332A engine 140 HP at 2700RPM and 35"MP
> (Love that supercharger! :-) )
-------------------------------------------
Introducing NetZero Long Distance
Unlimited Long Distance only $29.95/ month!
Sign Up Today! www.netzerolongdistance.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
Hi John,
That was true of the Gell Cell types. The newer RG batteries look the same
but don't require the higher charge Rate.
Go to http://www.aeroelectric.com/ and root around till you find Bob's info
on RG battery technology and lots of other stuff.
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: <JDaniel343(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re:Vreg
>
> Maybe I'm wrong, but I thought the sealed batteries required something
like
> 14.5 volts of charging power or they won't last but a couple of years.
>
> John Danielson
> N106WP 90 Hrs
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch(at)msn.com> |
John,
I recently purchased a 32 AH, sealed lead-acid battery from B & C and the
flyer that came with it recommended re-setting regulator voltage to 14.2 to
14.6 volts for charging operations.
Hope this helps,
Pat Hatch
RV-4, N17PH, 700 hrs
O-320, Hartzell C/S
RV-6, N44PH, 30 hrs
O-360, Hartzell C/S
Vero Beach, FL
----- Original Message -----
From: <JDaniel343(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re:Vreg
>
> Maybe I'm wrong, but I thought the sealed batteries required something
like
> 14.5 volts of charging power or they won't last but a couple of years.
>
> John Danielson
> N106WP 90 Hrs
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Jory" <rickjory(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | FAA DAR Checklist |
FYI, my FSDO sent me a list that they suggest the DAR uses as part of an amateur-built
aircraft inspection. This is lengthy, if not interested delete:
1. Does the builder have FAA Form 8050-3 (aircraft registration documentation,
obtained via Aircraft Registry in Oklahoma City)?
2. Is the registration number affixed on the aircraft in compliance with FAR's
45.21 through 45.29 [personal note: this is supposed to be "permanent" . . .
if you haven't painted your plane one technique which I think is deemed okay
is to have a sign shop cut your N-numbers via vinyl. These can be applied and
then removed prior to painting.]
3. Does the builder have an airplane and engine logbook? Do logbook entries,
data plate, and information on FAA forms have the same builder, model, and serial
number?
4. Is the current weight and balance recorded in legible format?
5. Is the word "EXPERIMENTAL" at least 2" minimum height and affixed onto the
aircraft in compliance with FAR 45.23(b)?
6. Are required instruments installed and properly marked?
7. Are cockpit controls identified as to function and position? Examples: fuel,
throttle, carburetor heat, flaps, trim, etc.
8. Is the aircraft data plate attached to the aircraft in accordance with FAR's
45.11 and 45.13?
9. Is the passenger warning placard installed?
10. Have records been maintained and recorded in compliance with FAR 91.417?
11. Is the aircraft equipped with an Emergency Locator Transmitter (ELT) in compliance
with the requirements of FAR 91.207?
12. If applicable, ahs a radio station license been issued for the aircraft?
13. Are approved seat belts installed at all seating locations?
14. Have an original and one copy of the letter of request for experimental, FAA
Form 8130-6 and FAA Form 8130-12, a three-view drawing or photos with aircraft
dimensions been prepared?
15. Is there a checklist schedule of proposed flight test or aircraft operating
instructions for FAA review at the time of aircraft release for flight?
16. Has the aircraft flight, engine, and landing gear been rigged and checked
for proper operation to the satisfaction of manufacturer's instruction?
17. Has the aircraft fuel system(s) been leak, vent, pressure and flow checked
and found satisfactory?
18. Is the aircraft considered complete in every detail by the builder?
19. Has the applicant made application in accordance with AC 20-27D paragraph
10d?
Rick Jory, RV8A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wiethe, Philip (P.J.)" <pwiethe(at)ford.com> |
| Subject: | Trim tab question |
I have had to bend the bottom forward flange (non hinged side) on my trim
tab up at quite an angle to clear the elevator skin enough to allow the trim
tab to rotate down 35 degrees for max nose up trim. It doesn't look like
it will have any negative effect, I just wondered it this was common, or
if my clearance between the tab and elevator skin was too tight.
Phil
8A - emp complete, wings started.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Trim tab question |
I don't remember having to do anything to the trim tab to get the proper
deflection.
Todd Wenzel
Delafield, WI USA
RV-8AQB - Finish Kit
N900TW - Reserved
TWenzel@Heartland-Software.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Wiethe, Philip (P.J.) [mailto:pwiethe(at)ford.com]
Subject: RV-List: Trim tab question
-->
I have had to bend the bottom forward flange (non hinged side) on my
trim tab up at quite an angle to clear the elevator skin enough to allow
the trim
tab to rotate down 35 degrees for max nose up trim. It doesn't look
like it will have any negative effect, I just wondered it this was
common, or
if my clearance between the tab and elevator skin was too tight.
Phil
8A - emp complete, wings started.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill" <n8wv(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Pedal Return Springs |
Hey Joe...
I tried this and it worked! I am going to work on it a little bit more, but
the little bit of tweaking I did do seems to have works wonders...
What I did was make some 6" extensions out of .032 for my hand seamers, and
just went up the trailing edge of the rudder, squeezing it in a bit each
time until I got a good even edge...
-Bill
www.vondane.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Joe Hine" <joehine(at)nbnet.nb.ca>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Rudder Pedal Return Springs
I can remember reading about someone with this problem and it was cured by
squeezing down the trialing edge of the rudder. The same way you do to
correct a heavy wing, very gently and progressively until the problem gets
better. If the radius of the bend is a bit large, it seems to cause the
tail wag.
Joe Hine
C-FYTQ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Aircraft Technical Book Company" <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com> |
| Subject: | Las Cruces Saturday |
Anyone from the Denver area and south wanting to join up Saturday morning
for a group arrival at Las Cruces contact, write back so we can set up a
flight plan.
Our tentative plans are for 3 planes to depart Granby, CO at 7:00am, pick up
some people at Centeniel in Denver at about 7:30, then head south for fuel
and breakfast at Belen, NM, around 9:30, then on to Cruces arriving around
11:00.
Andy
winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Aircraft Technical Book Company" <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com> |
| Subject: | Flight simulator survey |
We are considering setting up a web catalog to sell discounted Jeppesen
Flight Simulators. Since I don't know much about these or how popular
they'd be, I thought I'd get some feedback from the group. After all, all
of us here are folks that 1] like airplanes, 2] like computers, and 3] can
afford toys. I can't think of a better source of information.
As a very brief description, these things come in Basic, Advanced, and FAA
Approved models ranging from about $700 - $2000. They include all the
gadgets, controls, and software, and are designed to help you practice
navigation and instrument approaches all over the world. (I'm not sure if
you could bomb Bagdad, but you definitely can land there - even in the SMOKE
and haze.)
So, in an as anonymous a fashion as possible (considering your sending me an
e-mail), please check which statement applies and reply to me at
agold(at)buildersbooks.com
___ I have no interest in flight simulators
___ I may be interested if the price was right
___ I've always wanted one. Write back when your ready
___ I've got one and I use it often
___ I've got one; its in the closet full of dust
Thank you,
Andy
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Control stops/ autopilot servos |
| From: | czechsix(at)juno.com |
Regarding the thread on servo control stops, keep in mind that the primary control
stops for any axis should be at the control surface...aileron, elevator, etc.
The stops on the Tru Trak servos should not even make contact at full control
deflections. They are there as a backup to make sure the servo control arm
never goes over-center and jams the controls (i.e. on the RV-8, if the collet
were to slip, etc.)
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A N2D sanding fiberglass...main wheel pants and gear leg fairings...
Sign Up for Juno Platinum Internet Access Today
Only $9.95 per month!
Visit www.juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | P M Condon <pcondon(at)mitre.org> |
| Subject: | Re: How do you start an engine thats been sitting a long time |
Pre-oiler
I used a metal weed sprayer from the garden store, put in 6 qts of hot
oil, drained the oil in the engine so I could verify all 6 qts of hot
oil went into the engine (checked the dip stick). Pumped up sprayer and
pushed oil in via the oil cooler line into the engine. I did this on
both oil lines (intake to the cooler and return). Fogged the cylinders
with oil before I started. I also cranked the engine with the elect.
starter for a few minutes to get oil pressure reading (40 lbs) before
re-installing the plugs for the first start. Can't be certain I did any
good, but I felt much ($$$) beter......
Hi Dan:
I would not start it without preoiling it. This is done by forcing oil
(preferable warm oil) through the entire oil system.The inside of the
cylinders will also need preoiling. I would give Bart Lalonde a call at
250
376 1223 and get his instructions on how to handle a situation such as
yours.
I was in Aero Sport Power's facility today and saw the results of
starting
an engine that had not been properly cared for while in long term
storage.
It will probably cost in the area of $5000.00 to repair the damage.
Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan DeNeal" <rv6apilot(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: RV-List: How do you start an engine thats been sitting a long
time?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Bowen <lcbowen(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: TruTrak control stops |
See below:
--- David Aronson wrote:
>
> Listers:
> Concerning the stops. I have installed a Trutrack in my RV4. No way could
> I use the stock stops. I fabricated new ones out of angle stock. The stops
> prevent an over-center condition. I do not see them needing to be exactly
> equal distant in range.
I meant the servos-mounted stops must allow equal travel as the
airplane-mounted stops. If the servos are allowing 10` travel, but the
'normal' stops allow 20`, the TruTrak stops are 'robbing' you of 10` of travel.
Thus they should be equal -- both 20` in this example. Right?
I'll leave the servo-mounted stops off for now and see if things are still
within spec using the other control stops.
Thanks.
-LB
> Your built in stops are probably going to be about
> the same, maybe a little outside the perameters of the stops on the Trutrak.
> The installation instructions advise that it is OK to use your built in
> control stops if you cannot fit stops on the unit. Just set them up as
> directed and it seems to work fine.
> Dave Aronson
> RV4 N504RV
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com>
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: TruTrak control stops
>
>
> >
> > For those using the TruTrak APs:
> >
> > Are you using the stops that come with, and mount to, the servos, or
> > relying on the control stops on your RV? If both, wouldn't they have to
> > be calibrated to be equal -- both allowing exactly xx.x degrees of
> > travel, for example? Seems like that would be hard to do accomplish...
> >
> > -
> > Larry Bowen
> > Larry(at)BowenAero.com
> > http://BowenAero.com
http://webhosting.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Bowen <lcbowen(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Control stops/ autopilot servos |
Ah....I guess that makes sense.
I only received one stop - it was mounted on the pitch servo. Sounds like I'm
missing a stop. There is also a rivet in the collet, in my plans, to act a
safety against slipping.
-LB
--- czechsix(at)juno.com wrote:
>
> Regarding the thread on servo control stops, keep in mind that the primary
> control stops for any axis should be at the control surface...aileron,
> elevator, etc. The stops on the Tru Trak servos should not even make contact
> at full control deflections. They are there as a backup to make sure the
> servo control arm never goes over-center and jams the controls (i.e. on the
> RV-8, if the collet were to slip, etc.)
>
> --Mark Navratil
> Cedar Rapids, Iowa
> RV-8A N2D sanding fiberglass...main wheel pants and gear leg fairings...
>
http://webhosting.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Textor" <jack(at)iajobs.com> |
| Subject: | Flight simulator survey |
Jack Textor
PERSONNEL INCORPORATED
Established 1963
515-243-7687
www.iaJobs.com
www.personneliowa.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Aircraft Technical
Book Company
Subject: RV-List: Flight simulator survey
We are considering setting up a web catalog to sell discounted Jeppesen
Flight Simulators. Since I don't know much about these or how popular
they'd be, I thought I'd get some feedback from the group. After all, all
of us here are folks that 1] like airplanes, 2] like computers, and 3] can
afford toys. I can't think of a better source of information.
As a very brief description, these things come in Basic, Advanced, and FAA
Approved models ranging from about $700 - $2000. They include all the
gadgets, controls, and software, and are designed to help you practice
navigation and instrument approaches all over the world. (I'm not sure if
you could bomb Bagdad, but you definitely can land there - even in the SMOKE
and haze.)
So, in an as anonymous a fashion as possible (considering your sending me an
e-mail), please check which statement applies and reply to me at
agold(at)buildersbooks.com
___ I have no interest in flight simulators
_x__ I may be interested if the price was right
___ I've always wanted one. Write back when your ready
___ I've got one and I use it often
___ I've got one; its in the closet full of dust
Thank you,
Andy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Wentzell <wntzl(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: do not forward |
Do Not Forward
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rob ray <smokyray(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV4-List: ivo propeller |
Several years ago I seriously researched buying an IVO
Magnum for my RV4. I found Four guys who had bought
and flown them on RV's and all four had cracks in the
gelcoat after 25 hours. I called IVO and asked if the
problem was solved and never heard back. There is an
RV3 with a LOM engine and IVO electric C/S prop
flying, I spoke to him at Van's. I compromised and
bought a Catto Composite...
RR
--- flyseaplane wrote:
> --> RV4-List message posted by: "flyseaplane"
>
>
> As far as the Ivo Prop goes, the LOM inline engine
> is a great candidate. It
> seems to run a lot smoother than the Lycomings. I
> seem to remember talking
> to a guy in Montana a few years ago that had the Ivo
> electric prop on an
> Avid Magnum and was having problems with it. Just to
> much engine for a
> flimsy prop design.
>
> I love my Warp Drive 72" 3-blade ground adjustable.
> Lots of Murphy Rebel
> guys run them on 150-160 HP. Its great for STOL
> planes, I wonder if anyone
> has ever put one on an RV????
>
------------------------------------------------------
>
------------------------------------------------------
>
> I don't believe Ivo is selling their prop for four
> cylinder four cycle
> > engines, and engines with certain gear boxes.
> Check with them at
> > http://www.ivoprop.com
> >
> > Jim Ayers
> > RV-3 N47RV LOM M332A engine 140 HP at 2700RPM and
> 35"MP
> > (Love that supercharger! :-) )
>
>
> -------------------------------------------
> Introducing NetZero Long Distance
> Unlimited Long Distance only $29.95/ month!
> Sign Up Today! www.netzerolongdistance.com
>
>
>
> Contributions of
> any other form
>
> latest messages.
> other List members.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/search
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
http://webhosting.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Imfairings(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Just can't get this smile off of my face |
Congratulations Fran,
That smile will continue to return time and time again to your face.
Bob
Fairings-Etc.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LessDragProd(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re(2): RV4-List: ivo propeller |
In a message dated 10/22/2002 7:50:57 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
smokyray(at)yahoo.com writes:
> There is an
> RV3 with a LOM engine and IVO electric C/S prop
> flying, I spoke to him at Van's. I compromised and
> bought a Catto Composite...
>
> RR
>
Sounds like a good choice.
Jim Ayers
RV-3 N47RV
LOM M332A engine
Ivoprop Magnum electric prop flown since Dec. 1995 very nervously.
I believe Ivo hasn't sold his prop for Lycoming engines for a couple years.
Warp drive wasn't successful on a Lycoming, either. Makes me wonder about
the new CS props using Warp drive blades. Anyone have any history on the new
CS props with the Warp drive blades on a Lycoming?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV8DRIVER(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 43 Msgs - 10/21/02 |
UN/SUBSCRIBE: http://www.matronics.com/subscription
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Affordable Turbine Power Engine |
| From: | Don.Alexander(at)AstenJohnson.com |
10/23/2002 07:36:45 AM
Have any of you heard any news from ATP regarding their turboprop engine.
There have been no updates to the website recently and was wondering if
they had tanked. I saw them at SunNFun with the RV-4 rigged with the
turboprop and it looked interesting.
RV-8A
Fuel Tanks
Loving every minute of it!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Virgil Young <vwyoung(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | RV7 quickbuild slider |
I'm interested in a 180hp Lycoming which does not require air induction scoop on
the lower cowling. My understanding is this requires a forward sump and horizontal
induction. Would appreciate anyone's research along with recommended
prop governor and constant speed prop.Virgil Young.#1017
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sluggo" <rdcompton(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Ready-to-install Spinner |
> I bought a polished aluminum spinner from George &
> Becky Orndorff (sp?) and it fits Van's backplate, etc. Cutting the "cut
> out" for the blade (in my case, a Hartzell C/S prop) was easy . . . mainly
> because somewhere on the net I got a pattern and used this as a start.
Yep, been down this route. I bought the Orndorff polished spinner, too.
Real pretty, I might add. Had a template, too, from an existing fitted
fiberglass spinner. So far, so good.
> Needless to say, the pattern gets you the rough "size" . . . which I cut
> using a Dremmel and cut-off wheel . . . then "final" sizing can be done
with
> a die grinder and 2" (or 1") scotchbrite wheels (Avery, etc.). The
process
> is really simple and it is hard to make a mistake.
Ah, here was the "rub", as they say. The Orndorff's also said that a Dremel
was the way to go and should be "simple and hard to make a mistake." Well,
maybe for you all. Ham-fisted me let the Dremel get away and walk nicely
across the spinner, leaving a lovely etched trail, as well as a ruined
pricey polished spinner, in its wake.
>Anyway, don't know a source for a spinner that is pre-cut for the prop,
but what I've explained
> above was fairly straightforward. Good luck.
> Rick Jory RV8A
Well, my search will go on. The polished spinner fabrication learning curve
might get too expensive to risk buying them 'till I get it right. Thanks
for the info, though.
Randy Compton
RV-3A (with a trashed polished spinner)
N84VF
Gulf Breeze, FL
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Calgary Hangar Opportunity |
| From: | "Gannon, Terence" <Terence.Gannon(at)trican.ca> |
A quick message to those building in and around the Calgary/Southern
Alberta area that will eventually need hangar space for their finished
aircraft, and/or workspace for their project, and would like to be
located at Springbank (CYBW). Some new hangars are going up, and I'm
investigating whether there is sufficient interest in some sort of
arrangement to share space in one or two of the newly constructed bays.
Please contact me directly, off list, to discuss further. Best
regards...
Terry in Calgary
RV-6 S/N 24414
"Wings, Fuselage Arriving Today!"
terence.gannon(at)trican.ca
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Bowen <lcbowen(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Ready-to-install Spinner |
You can't buff it out?
-LB
--- Sluggo wrote:
>
>
> Ah, here was the "rub", as they say. The Orndorff's also said that a Dremel
> was the way to go and should be "simple and hard to make a mistake." Well,
> maybe for you all. Ham-fisted me let the Dremel get away and walk nicely
> across the spinner, leaving a lovely etched trail, as well as a ruined
> pricey polished spinner, in its wake.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Ready-to-install Spinner |
Sluggo wrote:
>
> Ah, here was the "rub", as they say. The Orndorff's also said that a Dremel
> was the way to go and should be "simple and hard to make a mistake." Well,
> maybe for you all. Ham-fisted me let the Dremel get away and walk nicely
> across the spinner, leaving a lovely etched trail, as well as a ruined
> pricey polished spinner, in its wake.
Randy, don't trash the spinner yet! Use 320 grit wet/dry paper with
water to sand out the trail. Once the trail is sanded out (I assume the
"trail" is largely cosmetic and not deep enough to create structural
problems) follow the 320 with 600, then 1200, then a buffing wheel with
polishing compound.
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Starn" <jhstarn(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Ready-to-install Spinner |
Duct tape.... use several layers of good ole duct tape to outline the
openning on the spinner. It may not be perfect against the "ham fisted" but
it gives protection for the little slip of the wheel. Warning: Cut the
same day you put it on and take it off as soon as the cut is completed.
(works witth fibreglas and plastic too). KABONG
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Bowen" <lcbowen(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Ready-to-install Spinner
>
> You can't buff it out?
>
> -LB
>
> --- Sluggo wrote:
> >
> >
> > Ah, here was the "rub", as they say. The Orndorff's also said that a
Dremel
> > was the way to go and should be "simple and hard to make a mistake."
Well,
> > maybe for you all. Ham-fisted me let the Dremel get away and walk
nicely
> > across the spinner, leaving a lovely etched trail, as well as a ruined
> > pricey polished spinner, in its wake.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Meier, George" <George.Meier(at)goodrich.com> |
| Subject: | Another good engine scorce |
I just thought I would pass along another good engine shop that would be
worth getting a quote from if you are looking for an engine. This is a
canadian shop in Halifax Nova Scotia and he has a number of engines in stock
that he would build up for homebuilts. He is calling them homebuilt engines
because he has a stock of engine parts he has bought at auctions and cannot
legally put them in certified engines. This is a shop that also builds
certified engines and all his engines come with a warrenty. I have delt
with the owner myself and have no reservations in directing you to him. If
I was looking for an engine this is where I would be going. I have no
connection with this business other than customer.
The shop is Aerotec Engines, the owner is Jason Crowell. Their numbers are
902-873-3100,phone 902-873-3101 fax and their email address is
aerotec(at)dbis.ns.ca.
This shop did a great job on the IO360 in my Pitts. I concur with this
recommendation. With the current exchange rate, they offer prices that can't
be beat.
George Meier
RV6A wings
Pitts S-1D N61BY
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Textor" <jack(at)iajobs.com> |
| Subject: | Affordable Turbine Power Engine |
Don,
They were at OSH, I was at the flight line at their published times to fly,
but never caught the 4 in the air. There was a nice air-to-air photo in
this months Sport Aviation. The fellow I talked with from ATP said the
improvements should be ready in 2003.
Jack Textor
RV8, wings forever
DSM
Have any of you heard any news from ATP regarding their turboprop engine.
There have been no updates to the website recently and was wondering if
they had tanked. I saw them at SunNFun with the RV-4 rigged with the
turboprop and it looked interesting.
RV-8A
Fuel Tanks
Loving every minute of it!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Phil Birkelbach" <phil(at)petrasoft.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV7-List: RV7 quickbuild slider |
I talked to Superior Air Parts last week and they are developing a "cool
air" induction system for the O-360 (acutally it would be for their XP-360,
but it should fit the O) The system will keep the induction path outside the
sump so the oil does not warm it up. This should increase power and
efficiency. You will not be able to install a carb though. The sump would
have the forward induction placement which would require a fuel injection
servo because of the orientation. The carb would not work very well mounted
at a 90 deg angle. If I understand it correctly you wouldn't want the
fuel/air mixture from the carb to go straight to the jug anyway for carb ice
reasons. I believe that was the reason for routing the fuel/air mixture
through the sump in the first place. I am no engine expert so don't quote me
on this!
Just for reference moving to the Airflow Performance fuel injection system
will be about a $2500 - $3000 net increase in the price of the engine. The
sump is supposed to be ready sometime early next year. The Ellison TBI might
work but you may still have to deal with a carb ice issue.
Anyway to make a short story long this new sump would allow you to use the
cowl from Van's that doesn't have the bottom scoop on it.
Godspeed,
Phil Birkelbach - Houston Texas
RV-7 N727WB (Reserved) - Fuselage
http://www.myrv7.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Virgil Young" <vwyoung(at)comcast.net>
Subject: RV7-List: RV7 quickbuild slider
> --> RV7-List message posted by: Virgil Young
>
> I'm interested in a 180hp Lycoming which does not require air induction
scoop on the lower cowling. My understanding is this requires a forward
sump and horizontal induction. Would appreciate anyone's research along
with recommended prop governor and constant speed prop.Virgil Young.#1017
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV9 <rv9(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | New Builder introduction |
Hello,
My name is Steve Mottin and I'm the proud owner of RV-9 empennage kit
number 609 which I received on the 10th of October. I've finished all
of the prep work on the HS and I'm awaiting better weather here in
North Texas (Granbury) before priming my HS parts. I've also begun work
on the VS.
I have a very crude (in comparison to some of you guys) website that's
intended to allow my non-builder friends and relatives to track my
progress. You are, of course, welcome to visit. Comments, suggestions,
motiviations, etc. are all welcome.
http://webpages.charter.net/smottin
Steve Mottin
RV-9A Empennage
Granbury, Texas mailto:rv9(at)charter.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "flyseaplane" <flyseaplane(at)netzero.net> |
| Subject: | RV4-List: ivo propeller |
Jim Ayers - - -
Sorry to all that this is the RV list - I have never heard of anyone having
problems with their Warp Drive on a Lycoming. That is, the ground adjustable
ones. What have you heard?? I know a guy who has one on a 160 HP and has had
no problems for the six years that it has been flying (about 800 hours now)
Thanks,
Linc
> RV-3 N47RV
> LOM M332A engine
> Ivoprop Magnum electric prop flown since Dec. 1995 very nervously.
> I believe Ivo hasn't sold his prop for Lycoming engines for a couple
years.
> Warp drive wasn't successful on a Lycoming, either. Makes me wonder about
> the new CS props using Warp drive blades. Anyone have any history on the
new
> CS props with the Warp drive blades on a Lycoming?
-------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <albert.gardner(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV9-List: New Builder introduction |
Hey Steve, welcome to the list. You may or may not know but many builders of
the pre-punched kits are skipping the step of putting the parts together and
then opening up the 3/32" holes with a #40 drill. They first dimple the
individual parts (which opens up the holes slightly) and then clecoe it up
and set the rivets. I know of several guys who built wings without even
thinking about twist while building. After the skins were riveted on they
checked and found out there was zero twist. In any case you are going to
have fun.
Albert Gardner, Yuma, AZ
RV-9A: N872RV
(After 2 years I can see the end from here.)
----- Original Message -----
From: "RV9" <rv9(at)charter.net>
Subject: RV9-List: New Builder introduction
> --> RV9-List message posted by: RV9
>
>
> Hello,
>
> My name is Steve Mottin and I'm the proud owner of RV-9 empennage kit
> number 609 which I received on the 10th of October. I've finished all
> of the prep work on the HS and I'm awaiting better weather here in
> North Texas (Granbury) before priming my HS parts. I've also begun work
> on the VS.
>
> I have a very crude (in comparison to some of you guys) website that's
> intended to allow my non-builder friends and relatives to track my
> progress. You are, of course, welcome to visit. Comments, suggestions,
> motiviations, etc. are all welcome.
>
> http://webpages.charter.net/smottin
>
> Steve Mottin
> RV-9A Empennage
> Granbury, Texas mailto:rv9(at)charter.net
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Hawkins <lhawkins(at)giant.com> |
| Subject: | Inverted oil system |
Does anyone have any experience with this inverted oil system built by Raven
aircraft (Pitts). Check it out at;
http://www.ravenaircraft.com/raven_001.htm
Larry Hawkins, RV-4 Farmington, NM, N-345SL,
finishing.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Compton" <rdcompton(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Ready-to-install Spinner |
> Randy, don't trash the spinner yet! Use 320 grit wet/dry paper with
> water to sand out the trail. Once the trail is sanded out (I assume the
> "trail" is largely cosmetic and not deep enough to create structural
> problems) follow the 320 with 600, then 1200, then a buffing wheel with
> polishing compound.
>
> Sam Buchanan
No, I've still got it. I was so bummed that I didn't think about any
"salvage" work. The marring is not very deep, so I don't think there is a
structural problem. I'll go ahead and give sanding/scotchbriting a try.
Thanks for tip!
Randy Compton
N84VF
RV-3A
Gulf Breeze, FL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Struyk" <rv8striker(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | fiberglass information |
I have put off, far too long now, all my fiberglass work. I guess what I need is
an introduction to the basics. Is there a video or perhaps or book to explain
fiberglass for the beginner?
Any advice would be appreciated.
Thanks in advance
Steve Struyk
St. Charles MO
RV-8 N842S (Res.)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Tasker <retasker(at)optonline.net> |
| Subject: | Drill and dimple vs just dimple (was:New Builder introduction) |
I am currently finishing up my RV9 empennage kit and expect to get the
wing kit in a few weeks.
I have noticed while building the empennage that the pre-punched holes
always line up so all you are really seem to be doing is just enlarging
the holes with the "match" drilling. Furthermore, when you dimple the
drilled hole, the resulting hole is actually a little oversize for the
rivet (per standard rivet specifications). Dimpling the existing holes
would actually create a better fit to the rivet.
I would like to solicit opinions as to the procedure noted below. That
is, what are the advantages and drawbacks of following the instructions
to drill then dimple vs just dimple as is. Of course, it goes without
saying that your dimple tool should fit into the existing holes before
dimpling (which might require slight grinding of the dimple tool pilot
shaft).
Dick Tasker, 90573
Albert Gardner wrote:
>--> RV9-List message posted by: "Albert Gardner"
>
>Hey Steve, welcome to the list. You may or may not know but many builders of
>the pre-punched kits are skipping the step of putting the parts together and
>then opening up the 3/32" holes with a #40 drill. They first dimple the
>individual parts (which opens up the holes slightly) and then clecoe it up
>and set the rivets. I know of several guys who built wings without even
>thinking about twist while building. After the skins were riveted on they
>checked and found out there was zero twist. In any case you are going to
>have fun.
>Albert Gardner, Yuma, AZ
>RV-9A: N872RV
>(After 2 years I can see the end from here.)
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "RV9" <rv9(at)charter.net>
>To:
>Subject: RV9-List: New Builder introduction
>
>
>
>
>>--> RV9-List message posted by: RV9
>>
>>
>>Hello,
>>
>>My name is Steve Mottin and I'm the proud owner of RV-9 empennage kit
>>number 609 which I received on the 10th of October. I've finished all
>>of the prep work on the HS and I'm awaiting better weather here in
>>North Texas (Granbury) before priming my HS parts. I've also begun work
>>on the VS.
>>
>>I have a very crude (in comparison to some of you guys) website that's
>>intended to allow my non-builder friends and relatives to track my
>>progress. You are, of course, welcome to visit. Comments, suggestions,
>>motiviations, etc. are all welcome.
>>
>>http://webpages.charter.net/smottin
>>
>>Steve Mottin
>>RV-9A Empennage
>>Granbury, Texas mailto:rv9(at)charter.net
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dane Sheahen" <dane(at)mutualace.com> |
| Subject: | RV Fuel Injection Help |
My problem is this. While flying near Sylvania Airport in Wisconsin in my
new RV8a (50 hrs) I had a total loss of power. The engine (IO-360a, Bendix
Servo) was coughing, sputtering backfiring & wind milling all the way down
to airport that I just happened to be near. As I rolled out on the runway
the prop quit turning. I tried to restart on the runway and flooded it.
In the air I did the following:
Fly the plane & head for airport (alt. 1500 agl)
Fuel pump on
Circuit breaker check
Full power throttle on
Full rich
Did not switched tanks but it was full
Missed Semi-Truck on highway near the approach and landed the plane.
On the ground the mechanic at Sylvania came out on a Sunday and check spark
(mag & LightSpeed) not a problem. Cleaned the bottom plugs and we restarted
the engine. It ran fine.
I came back Monday and checked the complete fuel system from the tank to the
filter to the lines plenty of fuel. We put I back together and it ran fine.
Ran it up to 2000 rpm switched tanks, boost pump on & off, mixture rich to
lean, turned off fuel while running until she stared to quit then turned
fuel back on. It ran fine. Pulled the plane back in the hanger and
scratched our heads. We did an oil change since the engine was warm. When
we took the plane out to test for oil leaks it would not run over 1600rpm
and it coughed, backfired and ran extremely rough. Here is the clue as soon
as I leaned the mixture about halfway back run smooth. (elevation is about
775 ft)
So I suspect the Bendix servo is the problem. Anyone have any ideas that
could shed some light on the subject . Oh by the way I bought the engine
used at OSH and the servo has not been overhauled.
????????????
RV8a Flying (was flying)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
| Subject: | Re: fiberglass information |
Sam James has a fiberglass 101 video. You can get it from Builder's
Bookstore I think.
Paul Besing
RV-6A Sold (Waiting on the RV-10)
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Struyk" <rv8striker(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: fiberglass information
>
> I have put off, far too long now, all my fiberglass work. I guess what I
need is an introduction to the basics. Is there a video or perhaps or book
to explain fiberglass for the beginner?
>
> Any advice would be appreciated.
> Thanks in advance
>
> Steve Struyk
> St. Charles MO
> RV-8 N842S (Res.)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: LOE wx so far |
The DCU RV gang is agonizing (well.......confused!?!.......) about
whether or not to plan on launching a gaggle of planes westward Friday
morning. Unfortunately, it seems an unseasonable and unusual weather
pattern has plopped down directly on top of our route of flight all the
way to LRU.
It would be EXTREMELY helpful for us (and I am sure a host of other
RVers) to get periodic reports such as Brian's from pilots who live in
the Arkansas, Texas, and New Mexico areas. We need to know about the
visibility, ceilings, presence of showers, etc, all the stuff that a
bunch of VFR RV pilots of various skill levels will be concerned about.
Yes, we are devouring all the weather products available on the web, but
Brian's "real world" report is invaluable in trying to make plans.
Thanks in advance for the ground-based PIREPS!
Sam Buchanan (RV-6 at DCU)
===============================
Brian Denk wrote:
>
>
> Since I live in Albuquerque, I thought I'd mention what "the view out the
> window" is today for your wx planning if flying down from northern areas to
> Las Cruces. It's quite nice, but much wetter than usual. We have low
> scattered clouds, providing some mountain obscuration this morning. Had
> some intense showers mixed with hail yesterday evening. (The weather gods
> must have known I just had my shop roof redone!)
>
> Forecast calls for similar conditions for the next few days...scattered
> showers, highs upper 60's for Albuquerque and a bit warmer down south at
> Cruces.
>
> Copied off the local news channel website:
>
> Middle Rio Grande Valley
> Today: mostly cloudy with scattered showers and thunderstorms. Highs 64 to
> 70.
> Tonight: mostly cloudy with scattered showers and thunderstorms. Developing
> east canyon winds 10 to 20 mph during the evening. Lows 35 to 43.
> Thursday: partly cloudy with isolated showers and thunderstorms. Highs 63 to
> 70.
> Thursday Night: partly cloudy with isolated showers and thunderstorms. Lows
> 33 to 41.
> Friday: partly cloudy. Highs 63 to 70.
> Saturday And Sunday: mostly cloudy with a chance of showers and
> thunderstorms. Lows 38 to 48. Highs 58 to 68.
> Monday And Tuesday: partly cloudy. Lows 34 to 45. Highs 59 to 68.
>
> Ya'll bring a jacket and be prepared to dodge some showers along the way.
>
> Brian Denk
> RV8 N94BD
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott W. Hatten" <ScottHatten(at)columbus.rr.com> |
| Subject: | RV9A - Plans / Empennage |
Wanting to Purchase?
Looking for anyone who might have purchased the RV9A plans, or the Empennage and
have changed
thier mind, or decided the project is too big?
Scott W. Hatten
Pataskala, OH
N6153K
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Bilinski <bilinski(at)qcpi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV7-List: Drill and dimple vs just dimple (was:New Builder |
introduction)
Your are correct about the hole size. I looked up the MIL SPEC and it
showed something a little different than what we are getting. I called the
factory, and to keep this short, just build it, it is way over built for
the rivet hole size to be an issue. To be perfect it should be dimpled with
the smallest pilot hole possible and then reamed to size. So do you want to
build the rest of your life or do you want to fly in the near future?
>--> RV7-List message posted by: Richard Tasker
>
>I am currently finishing up my RV9 empennage kit and expect to get the
>wing kit in a few weeks.
>
>I have noticed while building the empennage that the pre-punched holes
>always line up so all you are really seem to be doing is just enlarging
>the holes with the "match" drilling. Furthermore, when you dimple the
>drilled hole, the resulting hole is actually a little oversize for the
>rivet (per standard rivet specifications). Dimpling the existing holes
>would actually create a better fit to the rivet.
>
>I would like to solicit opinions as to the procedure noted below. That
>is, what are the advantages and drawbacks of following the instructions
>to drill then dimple vs just dimple as is. Of course, it goes without
>saying that your dimple tool should fit into the existing holes before
>dimpling (which might require slight grinding of the dimple tool pilot
>shaft).
>
>Dick Tasker, 90573
>
>Albert Gardner wrote:
>
>>--> RV9-List message posted by: "Albert Gardner"
>
>>
>>Hey Steve, welcome to the list. You may or may not know but many builders of
>>the pre-punched kits are skipping the step of putting the parts together and
>>then opening up the 3/32" holes with a #40 drill. They first dimple the
>>individual parts (which opens up the holes slightly) and then clecoe it up
>>and set the rivets. I know of several guys who built wings without even
>>thinking about twist while building. After the skins were riveted on they
>>checked and found out there was zero twist. In any case you are going to
>>have fun.
>>Albert Gardner, Yuma, AZ
>>RV-9A: N872RV
>>(After 2 years I can see the end from here.)
>>
>>----- Original Message -----
>>From: "RV9" <rv9(at)charter.net>
>>To:
>>Subject: RV9-List: New Builder introduction
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>>--> RV9-List message posted by: RV9
>>>
>>>
>>>Hello,
>>>
>>>My name is Steve Mottin and I'm the proud owner of RV-9 empennage kit
>>>number 609 which I received on the 10th of October. I've finished all
>>>of the prep work on the HS and I'm awaiting better weather here in
>>>North Texas (Granbury) before priming my HS parts. I've also begun work
>>>on the VS.
>>>
>>>I have a very crude (in comparison to some of you guys) website that's
>>>intended to allow my non-builder friends and relatives to track my
>>>progress. You are, of course, welcome to visit. Comments, suggestions,
>>>motiviations, etc. are all welcome.
>>>
>>>http://webpages.charter.net/smottin
>>>
>>>Steve Mottin
>>>RV-9A Empennage
>>>Granbury, Texas mailto:rv9(at)charter.net
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 8220
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Ready-to-install Spinner |
Hello Randy,
Examine the marks carefully. If the "marring" is very shallow start with a very
fine grit wet and dry sandpaper. If possible omit the 320 and try first with
600 grit or 400 grit. Use water and a flexable sanding pad
Good luck,
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Randy Compton" <rdcompton(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Ready-to-install Spinner
>
> > Randy, don't trash the spinner yet! Use 320 grit wet/dry paper with
> > water to sand out the trail. Once the trail is sanded out (I assume the
> > "trail" is largely cosmetic and not deep enough to create structural
> > problems) follow the 320 with 600, then 1200, then a buffing wheel with
> > polishing compound.
> >
> > Sam Buchanan
>
> No, I've still got it. I was so bummed that I didn't think about any
> "salvage" work. The marring is not very deep, so I don't think there is a
> structural problem. I'll go ahead and give sanding/scotchbriting a try.
>
> Thanks for tip!
>
> Randy Compton
> N84VF
> RV-3A
> Gulf Breeze, FL
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Tasker <retasker(at)optonline.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV7-List: Drill and dimple vs just dimple (was:New Builder |
introduction)
Well, your last question is what mine is related to. Just dimpling
would save substantial time over clecoing together, match drilling, then
dimpling vs just dimpling it. If there are no drawbacks to this
approach, then it would get us flying sooner!
Dick Tasker, 90573
Scott Bilinski wrote:
>--> RV7-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski
>
>Your are correct about the hole size. I looked up the MIL SPEC and it
>showed something a little different than what we are getting. I called the
>factory, and to keep this short, just build it, it is way over built for
>the rivet hole size to be an issue. To be perfect it should be dimpled with
>the smallest pilot hole possible and then reamed to size. So do you want to
>build the rest of your life or do you want to fly in the near future?
>
>
>
>
>>--> RV7-List message posted by: Richard Tasker
>>
>>I am currently finishing up my RV9 empennage kit and expect to get the
>>wing kit in a few weeks.
>>
>>I have noticed while building the empennage that the pre-punched holes
>>always line up so all you are really seem to be doing is just enlarging
>>the holes with the "match" drilling. Furthermore, when you dimple the
>>drilled hole, the resulting hole is actually a little oversize for the
>>rivet (per standard rivet specifications). Dimpling the existing holes
>>would actually create a better fit to the rivet.
>>
>>I would like to solicit opinions as to the procedure noted below. That
>>is, what are the advantages and drawbacks of following the instructions
>>to drill then dimple vs just dimple as is. Of course, it goes without
>>saying that your dimple tool should fit into the existing holes before
>>dimpling (which might require slight grinding of the dimple tool pilot
>>shaft).
>>
>>Dick Tasker, 90573
>>
>>Albert Gardner wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>>>--> RV9-List message posted by: "Albert Gardner"
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>>Hey Steve, welcome to the list. You may or may not know but many builders of
>>>the pre-punched kits are skipping the step of putting the parts together and
>>>then opening up the 3/32" holes with a #40 drill. They first dimple the
>>>individual parts (which opens up the holes slightly) and then clecoe it up
>>>and set the rivets. I know of several guys who built wings without even
>>>thinking about twist while building. After the skins were riveted on they
>>>checked and found out there was zero twist. In any case you are going to
>>>have fun.
>>>Albert Gardner, Yuma, AZ
>>>RV-9A: N872RV
>>>(After 2 years I can see the end from here.)
>>>
>>>----- Original Message -----
>>>From: "RV9" <rv9(at)charter.net>
>>>To:
>>>Subject: RV9-List: New Builder introduction
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>--> RV9-List message posted by: RV9
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>Hello,
>>>>
>>>>My name is Steve Mottin and I'm the proud owner of RV-9 empennage kit
>>>>number 609 which I received on the 10th of October. I've finished all
>>>>of the prep work on the HS and I'm awaiting better weather here in
>>>>North Texas (Granbury) before priming my HS parts. I've also begun work
>>>>on the VS.
>>>>
>>>>I have a very crude (in comparison to some of you guys) website that's
>>>>intended to allow my non-builder friends and relatives to track my
>>>>progress. You are, of course, welcome to visit. Comments, suggestions,
>>>>motiviations, etc. are all welcome.
>>>>
>>>>http://webpages.charter.net/smottin
>>>>
>>>>Steve Mottin
>>>>RV-9A Empennage
>>>>Granbury, Texas mailto:rv9(at)charter.net
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>
>
>Scott Bilinski
>Eng dept 8220
>Phone (858) 657-2536
>Pager (858) 502-5190
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Konrad Werner" <Connywerner(at)wans.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Inverted oil system |
Hi Larry,
Looks like the Raven System is a copy of the tried and true "Christen"
Inverted Oil System.
I have seen this system advertised on Ebay a few times. Other than that,
don't know much else about this one.
P.S. Will you be at LRU on the weekend??
Konrad
ABQ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Hawkins" <lhawkins(at)giant.com>
Subject: RV-List: Inverted oil system
>
> Does anyone have any experience with this inverted oil system built by
Raven
> aircraft (Pitts). Check it out at;
> http://www.ravenaircraft.com/raven_001.htm
>
> Larry Hawkins, RV-4 Farmington, NM, N-345SL,
> finishing.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Bilinski <bilinski(at)qcpi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV7-List: Drill and dimple vs just dimple (was:New Builder |
introduction)
If I had to do it over again (rivetiing 99% done at this time) I would
consider not match drill, but at least deburr, which is very important. I
would not even consider not doing it. Now I say this, and am no expert by
any means. So that is why I always run my ideas past experts which is what
I suggest to anyone deviating from the directions.
>--> RV7-List message posted by: Richard Tasker
>
>Well, your last question is what mine is related to. Just dimpling
>would save substantial time over clecoing together, match drilling, then
>dimpling vs just dimpling it. If there are no drawbacks to this
>approach, then it would get us flying sooner!
>
>Dick Tasker, 90573
>
>Scott Bilinski wrote:
>
>>--> RV7-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski
>>
>>Your are correct about the hole size. I looked up the MIL SPEC and it
>>showed something a little different than what we are getting. I called the
>>factory, and to keep this short, just build it, it is way over built for
>>the rivet hole size to be an issue. To be perfect it should be dimpled with
>>the smallest pilot hole possible and then reamed to size. So do you want to
>>build the rest of your life or do you want to fly in the near future?
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>>--> RV7-List message posted by: Richard Tasker
>>>
>>>I am currently finishing up my RV9 empennage kit and expect to get the
>>>wing kit in a few weeks.
>>>
>>>I have noticed while building the empennage that the pre-punched holes
>>>always line up so all you are really seem to be doing is just enlarging
>>>the holes with the "match" drilling. Furthermore, when you dimple the
>>>drilled hole, the resulting hole is actually a little oversize for the
>>>rivet (per standard rivet specifications). Dimpling the existing holes
>>>would actually create a better fit to the rivet.
>>>
>>>I would like to solicit opinions as to the procedure noted below. That
>>>is, what are the advantages and drawbacks of following the instructions
>>>to drill then dimple vs just dimple as is. Of course, it goes without
>>>saying that your dimple tool should fit into the existing holes before
>>>dimpling (which might require slight grinding of the dimple tool pilot
>>>shaft).
>>>
>>>Dick Tasker, 90573
>>>
>>>Albert Gardner wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>--> RV9-List message posted by: "Albert Gardner"
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>Hey Steve, welcome to the list. You may or may not know but many
builders of
>>>>the pre-punched kits are skipping the step of putting the parts
together and
>>>>then opening up the 3/32" holes with a #40 drill. They first dimple the
>>>>individual parts (which opens up the holes slightly) and then clecoe it up
>>>>and set the rivets. I know of several guys who built wings without even
>>>>thinking about twist while building. After the skins were riveted on they
>>>>checked and found out there was zero twist. In any case you are going to
>>>>have fun.
>>>>Albert Gardner, Yuma, AZ
>>>>RV-9A: N872RV
>>>>(After 2 years I can see the end from here.)
>>>>
>>>>----- Original Message -----
>>>>From: "RV9" <rv9(at)charter.net>
>>>>To:
>>>>Subject: RV9-List: New Builder introduction
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>--> RV9-List message posted by: RV9
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>Hello,
>>>>>
>>>>>My name is Steve Mottin and I'm the proud owner of RV-9 empennage kit
>>>>>number 609 which I received on the 10th of October. I've finished all
>>>>>of the prep work on the HS and I'm awaiting better weather here in
>>>>>North Texas (Granbury) before priming my HS parts. I've also begun work
>>>>>on the VS.
>>>>>
>>>>>I have a very crude (in comparison to some of you guys) website that's
>>>>>intended to allow my non-builder friends and relatives to track my
>>>>>progress. You are, of course, welcome to visit. Comments, suggestions,
>>>>>motiviations, etc. are all welcome.
>>>>>
>>>>>http://webpages.charter.net/smottin
>>>>>
>>>>>Steve Mottin
>>>>>RV-9A Empennage
>>>>>Granbury, Texas mailto:rv9(at)charter.net
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>Scott Bilinski
>>Eng dept 8220
>>Phone (858) 657-2536
>>Pager (858) 502-5190
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 8220
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Drill and dimple vs just dimple (was:New Builder introduction) |
Hello Richard,
The pre-punched holes will fit the clekoes and should assure exact parts
alignments during the drilling stage.
The pre-drilling of assembled parts that will receive flush rivets is (in my
opinion) a must!.
The suggested pre-drilling removes enough material from the hole center to
allow the dimpling process to take place without excess stretching around
the hole. Excess stretch in this area 'could' translate out as minute stress
relief cracks. This might not happen, but the extra drilling effort helps to
preclude such eventualities
Keep in mind that the procedure described has been more than Seventy years
in development. You can bet that a lot of attention has been paid in the
past to the area we are discussing here. I seriously doubt that this is an
area that needs any fine tuning by aircraft kit builders such as us.
As for messing with the design of the dimple dies grinding or otherwise
modifying such tools...I would not go there!
Sometimes short cuts tend to leave one just a bit short of the desired goal.
There are books aplenty on the tools and procedures used in stressed skin
monocoque (sp) designs. They are not exiting to read, just very informative.
Happy drilling,
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Tasker" <retasker(at)optonline.net>
Subject: RV-List: Drill and dimple vs just dimple (was:New Builder
introduction)
>
> I am currently finishing up my RV9 empennage kit and expect to get the
> wing kit in a few weeks.
>
> I have noticed while building the empennage that the pre-punched holes
> always line up so all you are really seem to be doing is just enlarging
> the holes with the "match" drilling. Furthermore, when you dimple the
> drilled hole, the resulting hole is actually a little oversize for the
> rivet (per standard rivet specifications). Dimpling the existing holes
> would actually create a better fit to the rivet.
>
> I would like to solicit opinions as to the procedure noted below. That
> is, what are the advantages and drawbacks of following the instructions
> to drill then dimple vs just dimple as is. Of course, it goes without
> saying that your dimple tool should fit into the existing holes before
> dimpling (which might require slight grinding of the dimple tool pilot
> shaft).
>
> Dick Tasker, 90573
>
> Albert Gardner wrote:
>
> >--> RV9-List message posted by: "Albert Gardner"
> >
> >Hey Steve, welcome to the list. You may or may not know but many builders
of
> >the pre-punched kits are skipping the step of putting the parts together
and
> >then opening up the 3/32" holes with a #40 drill. They first dimple the
> >individual parts (which opens up the holes slightly) and then clecoe it
up
> >and set the rivets. I know of several guys who built wings without even
> >thinking about twist while building. After the skins were riveted on they
> >checked and found out there was zero twist. In any case you are going to
> >have fun.
> >Albert Gardner, Yuma, AZ
> >RV-9A: N872RV
> >(After 2 years I can see the end from here.)
> >
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: "RV9" <rv9(at)charter.net>
> >To:
> >Subject: RV9-List: New Builder introduction
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >>--> RV9-List message posted by: RV9
> >>
> >>
> >>Hello,
> >>
> >>My name is Steve Mottin and I'm the proud owner of RV-9 empennage kit
> >>number 609 which I received on the 10th of October. I've finished all
> >>of the prep work on the HS and I'm awaiting better weather here in
> >>North Texas (Granbury) before priming my HS parts. I've also begun work
> >>on the VS.
> >>
> >>I have a very crude (in comparison to some of you guys) website that's
> >>intended to allow my non-builder friends and relatives to track my
> >>progress. You are, of course, welcome to visit. Comments, suggestions,
> >>motiviations, etc. are all welcome.
> >>
> >>http://webpages.charter.net/smottin
> >>
> >>Steve Mottin
> >>RV-9A Empennage
> >>Granbury, Texas mailto:rv9(at)charter.net
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Konrad Werner" <Connywerner(at)wans.net> |
| Subject: | Re: LOE wx so far |
> . . . climb up into the dessert of NM, it should be OK. <
* Hi Brian,
What kind of "dessert" are you talking? Anything with strawberry's I hope!
About our desert weather: Keep up the good job and I'll see you for a sweet
dessert at LRU!
> Las Cruces:
> Currently: 57F Cloudy
> Wind: Southeast at 6.0 MPH
> Humidity: 94.0%
> Dewpoint: 55 F
* Ninety four percent wet air in Cruces?? Wow, now that is humid!
C.U.@ LRU
Konrad
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Inverted oil system |
In a message dated 10/23/2002 9:29:18 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
lhawkins(at)giant.com writes:
> Does anyone have any experience with this inverted oil system built by Raven
> aircraft (Pitts). Check it out at;
> http://www.ravenaircraft.com/raven_001.htm
>
> Larry Hawkins, RV-4 Farmington, NM, N-345SL,
>
I have the Christian setup on my 4 and it looks very simular I can't see it
not working the same way.
Tim Barnes
Meangreen RV4
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rob ray <smokyray(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV4-List: ivo propeller |
MT and Hoffman both had enough doubts about the hubs
on Warp Drive props holding up on Lycomings early on.
They invested a ton o' money on research on the
crankshaft before they built props for them. Something
about Pulse rate frequencies on Lycomings being
severe. When you're over trees or water or mountains,
you don't need other problems...
RR
--- flyseaplane wrote:
> --> RV4-List message posted by: "flyseaplane"
>
>
> Jim Ayers - - -
>
> Sorry to all that this is the RV list - I have never
> heard of anyone having
> problems with their Warp Drive on a Lycoming. That
> is, the ground adjustable
> ones. What have you heard?? I know a guy who has one
> on a 160 HP and has had
> no problems for the six years that it has been
> flying (about 800 hours now)
>
> Thanks,
> Linc
>
>
> > RV-3 N47RV
> > LOM M332A engine
> > Ivoprop Magnum electric prop flown since Dec. 1995
> very nervously.
> > I believe Ivo hasn't sold his prop for Lycoming
> engines for a couple
> years.
> > Warp drive wasn't successful on a Lycoming,
> either. Makes me wonder about
> > the new CS props using Warp drive blades. Anyone
> have any history on the
> new
> > CS props with the Warp drive blades on a Lycoming?
>
>
> -------------------------------------------
>
>
>
> Contributions of
> any other form
>
> latest messages.
> other List members.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/search
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV Fuel Injection Help |
In a message dated 10/23/2002 9:55:27 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
dane(at)mutualace.com writes:
>
> My problem is this. While flying near Sylvania Airport in Wisconsin in my
> new RV8a (50 hrs) I had a total loss of power. The engine (IO-360a, Bendix
> Servo) was coughing, sputtering backfiring & wind milling all the way down
> to airport that I just happened to be near. As I rolled out on the runway
> the prop quit turning. I tried to restart on the runway and flooded it.
>
> In the air I did the following:
>
> Fly the plane & head for airport (alt. 1500 agl)
> Fuel pump on
> Circuit breaker check
> Full power throttle on
> Full rich
> Did not switched tanks but it was full
> Missed Semi-Truck on highway near the approach and landed the plane.
>
> On the ground the mechanic at Sylvania came out on a Sunday and check spark
> (mag & LightSpeed) not a problem. Cleaned the bottom plugs and we restarted
> the engine. It ran fine.
> I came back Monday and checked the complete fuel system from the tank to
> the
> filter to the lines plenty of fuel. We put I back together and it ran fine.
> Ran it up to 2000 rpm switched tanks, boost pump on & off, mixture rich to
> lean, turned off fuel while running until she stared to quit then turned
> fuel back on. It ran fine. Pulled the plane back in the hanger and
> scratched our heads. We did an oil change since the engine was warm. When
> we took the plane out to test for oil leaks it would not run over 1600rpm
> and it coughed, backfired and ran extremely rough. Here is the clue as soon
> as I leaned the mixture about halfway back run smooth. (elevation is about
> 775 ft)
> So I suspect the Bendix servo is the problem. Anyone have any ideas that
> could shed some light on the subject . Oh by the way I bought the engine
> used at OSH and the servo has not been overhauled.
>
>
> ????????????
> RV8a Flying (was flying)
>
Nothing like having an experience like that to blow your confidence and make
you smarter all at the same time.
Tim Barnes
Meangreen RV4
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rob Prior <rv7(at)b4.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: RV7-List: Drill and dimple vs just dimple (was:New Builder |
introduction)
One downside, that has been discussed here before, is the problem of
leaving potential crack forming locations.
When the holes are punched, the machining marks left are parallel to the
axis of the hole, i.e. across the edge of the sheet inside the hole.
Dimpling this edge will stretch it a little bit, and place these
machining marks in tension. Age, vibration, flight stresses, etc. *may*
cause these marks to turn into microscopic cracks that could propagate
into the skins. I say may, because the loads at those edges are likely
to be extremely small.
When you drill the holes before dimpling, you rotate the machining marks
so they are now perpendicular to the axis of the hole, or parallel to
the edge of the skins inside the hole. When these marks are stretched
by dimpling, they are much less likely to cause microscopic stress
fractures that could propagate into the skins at a later date.
I agree that the risk is low of any of these microscopic cracks
propagating into the skins. But at the same time, I would prefer not to
leave myself open to any potential problems, when it takes such a short
time to remove them. It's not *that* much of an inconvenience to
assemble, drill, and then disassemble.
Oh, and finally, the last time I heard someone ask the factory about
this, they said to assemble, drill, and disassemble before dimpling.
-RB4
Richard Tasker wrote:
> --> RV7-List message posted by: Richard Tasker
>
> Well, your last question is what mine is related to. Just dimpling
> would save substantial time over clecoing together, match drilling, then
> dimpling vs just dimpling it. If there are no drawbacks to this
> approach, then it would get us flying sooner!
>
> Dick Tasker, 90573
>
> Scott Bilinski wrote:
>
>
>>--> RV7-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski
>>
>>Your are correct about the hole size. I looked up the MIL SPEC and it
>>showed something a little different than what we are getting. I called the
>>factory, and to keep this short, just build it, it is way over built for
>>the rivet hole size to be an issue. To be perfect it should be dimpled with
>>the smallest pilot hole possible and then reamed to size. So do you want to
>>build the rest of your life or do you want to fly in the near future?
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>>--> RV7-List message posted by: Richard Tasker
>>>
>>>I am currently finishing up my RV9 empennage kit and expect to get the
>>>wing kit in a few weeks.
>>>
>>>I have noticed while building the empennage that the pre-punched holes
>>>always line up so all you are really seem to be doing is just enlarging
>>>the holes with the "match" drilling. Furthermore, when you dimple the
>>>drilled hole, the resulting hole is actually a little oversize for the
>>>rivet (per standard rivet specifications). Dimpling the existing holes
>>>would actually create a better fit to the rivet.
>>>
>>>I would like to solicit opinions as to the procedure noted below. That
>>>is, what are the advantages and drawbacks of following the instructions
>>>to drill then dimple vs just dimple as is. Of course, it goes without
>>>saying that your dimple tool should fit into the existing holes before
>>>dimpling (which might require slight grinding of the dimple tool pilot
>>>shaft).
>>>
>>>Dick Tasker, 90573
>>>
>>>Albert Gardner wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>--> RV9-List message posted by: "Albert Gardner"
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>Hey Steve, welcome to the list. You may or may not know but many builders of
>>>>the pre-punched kits are skipping the step of putting the parts together and
>>>>then opening up the 3/32" holes with a #40 drill. They first dimple the
>>>>individual parts (which opens up the holes slightly) and then clecoe it up
>>>>and set the rivets. I know of several guys who built wings without even
>>>>thinking about twist while building. After the skins were riveted on they
>>>>checked and found out there was zero twist. In any case you are going to
>>>>have fun.
>>>>Albert Gardner, Yuma, AZ
>>>>RV-9A: N872RV
>>>>(After 2 years I can see the end from here.)
>>>>
>>>>----- Original Message -----
>>>>From: "RV9" <rv9(at)charter.net>
>>>>To:
>>>>Subject: RV9-List: New Builder introduction
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>--> RV9-List message posted by: RV9
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>Hello,
>>>>>
>>>>>My name is Steve Mottin and I'm the proud owner of RV-9 empennage kit
>>>>>number 609 which I received on the 10th of October. I've finished all
>>>>>of the prep work on the HS and I'm awaiting better weather here in
>>>>>North Texas (Granbury) before priming my HS parts. I've also begun work
>>>>>on the VS.
>>>>>
>>>>>I have a very crude (in comparison to some of you guys) website that's
>>>>>intended to allow my non-builder friends and relatives to track my
>>>>>progress. You are, of course, welcome to visit. Comments, suggestions,
>>>>>motiviations, etc. are all welcome.
>>>>>
>>>>>http://webpages.charter.net/smottin
>>>>>
>>>>>Steve Mottin
>>>>>RV-9A Empennage
>>>>>Granbury, Texas mailto:rv9(at)charter.net
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>Scott Bilinski
>>Eng dept 8220
>>Phone (858) 657-2536
>>Pager (858) 502-5190
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Drill and dimple vs just dimple (was:New Builder |
introduction)
Jim Jewell wrote:
>
>
> Hello Richard,
>
> The pre-punched holes will fit the clekoes and should assure exact parts
> alignments during the drilling stage.
> The pre-drilling of assembled parts that will receive flush rivets is (in my
> opinion) a must!.
> The suggested pre-drilling removes enough material from the hole center to
> allow the dimpling process to take place without excess stretching around
> the hole. Excess stretch in this area 'could' translate out as minute stress
> relief cracks. This might not happen, but the extra drilling effort helps to
> preclude such eventualities
I'm feeling grumpy this afternoon.......since my 6-month plans for LRU
may get flushed away by rogue low pressure systems.....
> Keep in mind that the procedure described has been more than Seventy years
> in development. You can bet that a lot of attention has been paid in the
> past to the area we are discussing here. I seriously doubt that this is an
> area that needs any fine tuning by aircraft kit builders such as us.
>
Maybe folks have been drilling holes in metal skins for seventy years,
but they have been riveting together CAD designed and punched RV kits
for only a couple of years!
I have to wonder how far back in the past it would have been deemed
"acceptable" to skip the drilling stage if drills were not necessary to
make the holes in the first place. Would we have seen "undrilled" B-17's
or P-51's??? I bet the folks trying to force every plane possible into
the sky during WWII would have gladly skipped the drilling process if
CAD punched skins were available.
And..........if that had happened, would it now be "acceptable" to skip
the drilling step without fear of "stretching" the holes???
Just tryin' to stir up a rip-roarin', flat-out flame-throwin' war on
this here list......
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Ready-to-install Spinner |
Bet you can't see it while flying!
AND if you turn the prop right when parked, no one will see it.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Bowen" <lcbowen(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Ready-to-install Spinner
>
> You can't buff it out?
>
> -LB
>
> --- Sluggo wrote:
> >
> >
> > Ah, here was the "rub", as they say. The Orndorff's also said that a
Dremel
> > was the way to go and should be "simple and hard to make a mistake."
Well,
> > maybe for you all. Ham-fisted me let the Dremel get away and walk
nicely
> > across the spinner, leaving a lovely etched trail, as well as a ruined
> > pricey polished spinner, in its wake.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen Johnson" <spjohnsn(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV7-List: Drill and dimple vs just dimple (was:New Builder |
introduction)
The drilling and deburring process is needed to eliminate stress risers
which can cause cracks later. For a very good discussion on fatigue failure
caused by stress concentrations see "Sky Ranch Engineering Manual" by John
Schwaner. It's available from http://www.sacskyranch.com/index.htm and is
must reading before engine selection time. If I were building a matched
hole kit, I would drill holes #41 rather than #40. This eliminates the
stress risers and is just large enough for the pilots in the dimple dies and
countersink.
Steve Johnson
RV-8 #80121 fuse
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Tasker" <retasker(at)optonline.net>
Subject: RV-List: Re: RV7-List: Drill and dimple vs just dimple (was:New
Builder introduction)
>
> Well, your last question is what mine is related to. Just dimpling
> would save substantial time over clecoing together, match drilling, then
> dimpling vs just dimpling it. If there are no drawbacks to this
> approach, then it would get us flying sooner!
>
> Dick Tasker, 90573
>
> Scott Bilinski wrote:
>
> >--> RV7-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski
> >
> >Your are correct about the hole size. I looked up the MIL SPEC and it
> >showed something a little different than what we are getting. I called
the
> >factory, and to keep this short, just build it, it is way over built for
> >the rivet hole size to be an issue. To be perfect it should be dimpled
with
> >the smallest pilot hole possible and then reamed to size. So do you want
to
> >build the rest of your life or do you want to fly in the near future?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "flyseaplane" <flyseaplane(at)netzero.net> |
| Subject: | RV4-List: ivo propeller |
Rob Ray,
"MT and Hoffman both had enough doubts about the hubs on Warp Drive props
holding up on Lycomings early on."
All the guys I know with Warp Drive Props on Lycomings have the "High Horse
Power" blade hub.
Maybe "early on" there was an issue, I think Warp fixed it with the HHP hub.
Later,
Linc
-------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | transponder antenna inside wheelpant |
Listers: an update on my experiment with relocating the transponder antenna
from the belly to the wheelpant-
This summer, as I finished installing the 2-piece pressure-recovery
wheelpants, I decided to take a gamble and remove the old belly-mounted
transponder antenna and replace it with a new one located inside the aft
compartment of the right main wheel pant. The little antenna is quite short,
and can't be but so draggy, but it was always getting an oil film on it and
becoming intermittently unreliable. Besides, it was one more thing to bump
my head on or poke my eye with while working or cleaning underneath the
plane.
The installation involved fabricating a ground-plane from .032 aluminum
sheet, cut as large as would fit inside the compartment formed by the rear
bulkhead in Van's 2-piece wheel pant. A T-shaped slot was cut in the
bulkhead fiberglass, allowing the antenna with ground-plane to be inserted in
its final location, pointing straight downwards. The edges of the
roughly-trapezoidal ground plane touched the sides of the wheel pant at some
points, but the antenna tip was in free space, as installed. Pop rivets
secured the forward flange of the ground plane to the bulkhead, and a coax
bulkhead BNC fitting terminated the short run of coax (RG-200 from Electric
Bob) from the antenna feedpoint to the bulkhead. The T-hole was closed with
a layer of glass-epoxy, covering the pop rivet heads as well, and
weatherproofing everything. Coax was run down the gear leg inside the
fairing, to mate with this bulkhead fitting, so everything is removable if
needed. Coax connections were sealed with wraps of self-fusing silicone
tape.
I now have a totally concealed, zero-drag, environmentally protected antenna
which seems to hear and be heard just as well as the former belly
installation. Total coax length is just over what the transponder book says
is okay for RG-200, but I don't really care since it seems to perform to
specs. No shielding effects are evident despite the proximity of the wheel
and gear leg; I get "pinged" by approach radar throughout a 360 turn from a
good distance away.
Now I am wondering what sort of results we would see using a rubber duck
antenna for aircraft comm and /or 2-meter ham frequencies in the opposite
wheel pant. Obviously, the ground plane would be a compromise at these lower
frequencies, whereas at 1260 MHz, a full quarter wave ground plane was able
to fit inside the wheel pant. If I ever get around to trying this second
experiment, I will post results here. More likely, I will fab a wingtip
antenna for a low drag comm, using Bob Nuckolls' gamma-matched design.
Disclaimer: any speed increase from this mod is sure to be unmeasurable in
actual practice, but might make you feel better.
Bill Boyd
RV-6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Huft" <rv8tor(at)lazy8.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV7-List: RV7 quickbuild slider |
Sky Dynamics http://www.skydynamics.com/ has had a cool air system for some
time.
You still need to use fuel injection of some type, Bendix works too.
See my setup at http://www.lazy8.net/fwf.html , it just goes through the
sump like a carb.
John Huft, Pagosa Springs, CO
RV8 4.9 hours
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Phil Birkelbach
Subject: RV-List: Re: RV7-List: RV7 quickbuild slider
I talked to Superior Air Parts last week and they are developing a "cool
air" induction system for the O-360 (acutally it would be for their XP-360,
but it should fit the O) The system will keep the induction path outside the
sump so the oil does not warm it up. This should increase power and
efficiency. You will not be able to install a carb though. The sump would
have the forward induction placement which would require a fuel injection
servo because of the orientation. The carb would not work very well mounted
at a 90 deg angle. If I understand it correctly you wouldn't want the
fuel/air mixture from the carb to go straight to the jug anyway for carb ice
reasons. I believe that was the reason for routing the fuel/air mixture
through the sump in the first place. I am no engine expert so don't quote me
on this!
Just for reference moving to the Airflow Performance fuel injection system
will be about a $2500 - $3000 net increase in the price of the engine. The
sump is supposed to be ready sometime early next year. The Ellison TBI might
work but you may still have to deal with a carb ice issue.
Anyway to make a short story long this new sump would allow you to use the
cowl from Van's that doesn't have the bottom scoop on it.
Godspeed,
Phil Birkelbach - Houston Texas
RV-7 N727WB (Reserved) - Fuselage
http://www.myrv7.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Virgil Young" <vwyoung(at)comcast.net>
Subject: RV7-List: RV7 quickbuild slider
> --> RV7-List message posted by: Virgil Young
>
> I'm interested in a 180hp Lycoming which does not require air induction
scoop on the lower cowling. My understanding is this requires a forward
sump and horizontal induction. Would appreciate anyone's research along
with recommended prop governor and constant speed prop.Virgil Young.#1017
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jaye and Scott Jackson <jayeandscott(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Inverted oil system |
I tried to save money back in the early seventies by buying an inverted
system that looked like a homemade version of the Christen system.
On every flight of the Pitts, the oil pressure would drop to almost nothing
as the oil temperature climbed.
Turned out the three-way valve had dissimilar metals for the ball and the
seat; as they heated up, they changed dimension and wouldn't seal.
I got what I paid for. didn't someone once say," There's nothing made that
someone can't make cheaper"?
Scott in Vancouver
----- Original Message -----
From: <meangreenrv4(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Inverted oil system
>
> In a message dated 10/23/2002 9:29:18 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
> lhawkins(at)giant.com writes:
>
>
> > Does anyone have any experience with this inverted oil system built by
Raven
> > aircraft (Pitts). Check it out at;
> > http://www.ravenaircraft.com/raven_001.htm
> >
> > Larry Hawkins, RV-4 Farmington, NM, N-345SL,
> >
>
> I have the Christian setup on my 4 and it looks very simular I can't see
it
> not working the same way.
>
> Tim Barnes
> Meangreen RV4
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Drill and dimple vs just dimple (was:New Builder introduction) |
Hi Sam,
WasamaterSamduh%$#kofyemakerbroke?!! :-)!
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Sam Buchanan" <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Drill and dimple vs just dimple (was:New Builder
introduction)
>
>
> Jim Jewell wrote:
> >
> >
> > Hello Richard,
> >
> > The pre-punched holes will fit the clekoes and should assure exact parts
> > alignments during the drilling stage.
> > The pre-drilling of assembled parts that will receive flush rivets is
(in my
> > opinion) a must!.
> > The suggested pre-drilling removes enough material from the hole center
to
> > allow the dimpling process to take place without excess stretching
around
> > the hole. Excess stretch in this area 'could' translate out as minute
stress
> > relief cracks. This might not happen, but the extra drilling effort
helps to
> > preclude such eventualities
>
> I'm feeling grumpy this afternoon.......since my 6-month plans for LRU
> may get flushed away by rogue low pressure systems.....
>
> > Keep in mind that the procedure described has been more than Seventy
years
> > in development. You can bet that a lot of attention has been paid in the
> > past to the area we are discussing here. I seriously doubt that this is
an
> > area that needs any fine tuning by aircraft kit builders such as us.
> >
>
> Maybe folks have been drilling holes in metal skins for seventy years,
> but they have been riveting together CAD designed and punched RV kits
> for only a couple of years!
>
> I have to wonder how far back in the past it would have been deemed
> "acceptable" to skip the drilling stage if drills were not necessary to
> make the holes in the first place. Would we have seen "undrilled" B-17's
> or P-51's??? I bet the folks trying to force every plane possible into
> the sky during WWII would have gladly skipped the drilling process if
> CAD punched skins were available.
>
> And..........if that had happened, would it now be "acceptable" to skip
> the drilling step without fear of "stretching" the holes???
>
> Just tryin' to stir up a rip-roarin', flat-out flame-throwin' war on
> this here list......
>
> Sam Buchanan
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill" <n8wv(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Drill and dimple vs just dimple (was:New Builder introduction) |
I talked to someone at Van's about this once, and they said it would be "no
problem" to skip the match drilling, as the dimpling process would open the
holes up enough to accept the rivets...
I also recall reading in one of the RVators that VANS built the first
matched hole "kit" wings for the 9 "without picking up a drill"...
FWIW
-Bill VonDane
RV-8A ~ 71 hours
www.vondane.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Drill and dimple vs just dimple (was:New Builder
introduction)
Hi Sam,
WasamaterSamduh%$#kofyemakerbroke?!! :-)!
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Sam Buchanan" <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Drill and dimple vs just dimple (was:New Builder
introduction)
>
>
> Jim Jewell wrote:
> >
> >
> > Hello Richard,
> >
> > The pre-punched holes will fit the clekoes and should assure exact parts
> > alignments during the drilling stage.
> > The pre-drilling of assembled parts that will receive flush rivets is
(in my
> > opinion) a must!.
> > The suggested pre-drilling removes enough material from the hole center
to
> > allow the dimpling process to take place without excess stretching
around
> > the hole. Excess stretch in this area 'could' translate out as minute
stress
> > relief cracks. This might not happen, but the extra drilling effort
helps to
> > preclude such eventualities
>
> I'm feeling grumpy this afternoon.......since my 6-month plans for LRU
> may get flushed away by rogue low pressure systems.....
>
> > Keep in mind that the procedure described has been more than Seventy
years
> > in development. You can bet that a lot of attention has been paid in the
> > past to the area we are discussing here. I seriously doubt that this is
an
> > area that needs any fine tuning by aircraft kit builders such as us.
> >
>
> Maybe folks have been drilling holes in metal skins for seventy years,
> but they have been riveting together CAD designed and punched RV kits
> for only a couple of years!
>
> I have to wonder how far back in the past it would have been deemed
> "acceptable" to skip the drilling stage if drills were not necessary to
> make the holes in the first place. Would we have seen "undrilled" B-17's
> or P-51's??? I bet the folks trying to force every plane possible into
> the sky during WWII would have gladly skipped the drilling process if
> CAD punched skins were available.
>
> And..........if that had happened, would it now be "acceptable" to skip
> the drilling step without fear of "stretching" the holes???
>
> Just tryin' to stir up a rip-roarin', flat-out flame-throwin' war on
> this here list......
>
> Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Huft" <rv8tor(at)lazy8.net> |
| Subject: | Drill and dimple vs just dimple (was:New Builder introduction) |
Wondering about this...are the pre-punched holes large enough to admit the
pilot shaft of the dimple die, or does the pilot have to be "forced" through
the hole?
John Huft, RV8 (drilled em all)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Sam Buchanan
Subject: Re: RV-List: Drill and dimple vs just dimple (was:New Builder
introduction)
Jim Jewell wrote:
>
>
> Hello Richard,
>
> The pre-punched holes will fit the clekoes and should assure exact parts
> alignments during the drilling stage.
> The pre-drilling of assembled parts that will receive flush rivets is (in
my
> opinion) a must!.
> The suggested pre-drilling removes enough material from the hole center to
> allow the dimpling process to take place without excess stretching around
> the hole. Excess stretch in this area 'could' translate out as minute
stress
> relief cracks. This might not happen, but the extra drilling effort helps
to
> preclude such eventualities
I'm feeling grumpy this afternoon.......since my 6-month plans for LRU
may get flushed away by rogue low pressure systems.....
> Keep in mind that the procedure described has been more than Seventy years
> in development. You can bet that a lot of attention has been paid in the
> past to the area we are discussing here. I seriously doubt that this is an
> area that needs any fine tuning by aircraft kit builders such as us.
>
Maybe folks have been drilling holes in metal skins for seventy years,
but they have been riveting together CAD designed and punched RV kits
for only a couple of years!
I have to wonder how far back in the past it would have been deemed
"acceptable" to skip the drilling stage if drills were not necessary to
make the holes in the first place. Would we have seen "undrilled" B-17's
or P-51's??? I bet the folks trying to force every plane possible into
the sky during WWII would have gladly skipped the drilling process if
CAD punched skins were available.
And..........if that had happened, would it now be "acceptable" to skip
the drilling step without fear of "stretching" the holes???
Just tryin' to stir up a rip-roarin', flat-out flame-throwin' war on
this here list......
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Norman" <jnorman(at)intermapsystems.com> |
| Subject: | Inverted oil system |
Konrad,
If you don't know much about this system, why did you write back to give
advise? He asked for advise, so if you don't have any, don't give any.
Jim
(cranky today).
Tampa
No not archive.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Konrad Werner
Subject: Re: RV-List: Inverted oil system
Hi Larry,
Looks like the Raven System is a copy of the tried and true "Christen"
Inverted Oil System.
I have seen this system advertised on Ebay a few times. Other than that,
don't know much else about this one.
P.S. Will you be at LRU on the weekend??
Konrad
ABQ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Hawkins" <lhawkins(at)giant.com>
Subject: RV-List: Inverted oil system
>
> Does anyone have any experience with this inverted oil system built by
Raven
> aircraft (Pitts). Check it out at;
> http://www.ravenaircraft.com/raven_001.htm
>
> Larry Hawkins, RV-4 Farmington, NM, N-345SL,
> finishing.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary" <rv9er(at)3rivers.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV9-List: Drill and dimple vs just dimple (was:New Builder |
introduction)
Why do you guys want to second-guess the experts in sheet metal aircraft construction,
and the tool and die makers? Van's has made itself clear on this point
in the manual. The proceedures and fit are the way they are for good reasons,
which have been discussed (beat to death) on the list. Check the archives.
If it is too much work for you to match drill, I dont see how you will get very
far in the construction of an RV.
There was another long thread on the RV list about skipping deburring. It amazes
me. Why not just do it right? It is not difficult.
Gary
From: Richard Tasker
--> RV9-List message posted by: Richard Tasker
I am currently finishing up my RV9 empennage kit and expect to get the
wing kit in a few weeks.
I have noticed while building the empennage that the pre-punched holes
always line up so all you are really seem to be doing is just enlarging
the holes with the "match" drilling. Furthermore, when you dimple the
drilled hole, the resulting hole is actually a little oversize for the
rivet (per standard rivet specifications). Dimpling the existing holes
would actually create a better fit to the rivet.
I would like to solicit opinions as to the procedure noted below. That
is, what are the advantages and drawbacks of following the instructions
to drill then dimple vs just dimple as is. Of course, it goes without
saying that your dimple tool should fit into the existing holes before
dimpling (which might require slight grinding of the dimple tool pilot
shaft).
October 17, 2002 - October 23, 2002
RV-Archive.digest.vol-nq