RV-Archive.digest.vol-ql
January 29, 2005 - February 11, 2005
One idea to help would be to get the engine cranking
fast then turn on the electronic ignition.
One other idea is to put a magneto that goes 0 degrees
BTC and use it to start the engine.
Dale Mitchell
--- Duane Zavadil wrote:
>
>
> I'd like to relate an experience and ask some
> questions.
>
> I've got a 6A with an 0-320 with dual Electoair
> ignition. I had lot of problems with kickback on
> starting that I attributed to low cranking speed.
> Upon rebuilding the old Remy starter, the nature of
> the problem changed. Higher cranking speed and less
> kickback but often when starting, particularly when
> cold, I can crank away for up to 10 seconds with no
> luck but immediately upon releasing the starter
> button, it often kicks off (and sometimes kicks
> back!). The bus voltage drops into the 7-8 volt
> range when cranking. My guess is that the
> Electroair ignition system is recieving inadequate
> voltage when cranking but when the bus volatege
> jumps back up upon disengaging the starter, it
> resume operation(sometimes with some odd transient
> that causes the kickback). By the way, I found
> maintenance records of replacement of ring gear so
> this has probably been going on for some time.
>
> I'm inclined to add a second small battery such as
> one of small, 2-3 amp hour Yuasa absorbed gel
> batterys that would be used for starting and backup.
> I would like to take complexity out of the starting
> process and eliminate the potenial for flying off
> with only the backup battery engaged by placing a
> normally closed relay that is energized and opened
> by the starter relay primary circuit. I would add a
> switch in series in this circuit to isolate the
> backup battery from the rest of the systerm in the
> event that I needed to use it as a true backup
> battery for the ignition system.
>
> The plane is set up for night VFR, (vacuum system)
> and is sometimes flown that way. It has an
> internally regulated alternator with Bob's crowbar
> OVP. I use an Oddessy PC 725 and replace it annually
> (the old batterys work great in all kinds of
> equipment around the place!).
>
> Questions: Is there an easier way to fix the
> kickback such as a modern starter ( though I thought
> they drew higher current)?
>
> Is it possible that the old Remy starter is somehow
> defective and drawing excess current - causing the
> problem?
>
> Is there a fatal flaw in the proposed backup scheme?
>
>
> Sent via the WebMail system at hometownaccess.net
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________
http://info.mail.yahoo.com/mail_250
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Heathco" <cheathco(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 Oil Cooler pictures |
Hey Mon, you ever get any pix of that oil cooler control? I sent you a
scetch a week or so ago, asking for coments on how you fixed the door.
charlie Heathco
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kosta Lewis" <mikel(at)dimensional.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: RV-4 Oil Cooler pictures
I have a really cool (pun intended) set up with the oil cooler mounted
on a bracket that is mounted to the engine mount behind cylinder #3. I
will send photos when I quit flying long enough to pull the cowl and
take some. The hoses have never flexed enough to cause problems in over
800 hours. The bracket is solidly mounted with the bolts going through
STEEL tubing where they pass through the cooler. The mount itself is
made of 4130 steel tubing.
My set up is a two inch scat taken off the rear baffle and into a duct
system welded out of aluminum with a simple gate at the back of the
cooler, also mounted to a welded duct with a 3 inch hole going out the
back. The cooler door, of course, is controlled from the cockpit. I have
to block the intake partially below 70 degrees average OAT and almost
completely below 50 degrees average. I also have a piece of cylinder
ducting to get cool air into the oil cooler intake that is taken off as
the OAT cools. It keeps the air into the cooler cooler (!) and the air
to the cylinder away from the air going into the cooler which better
cools the cylinder. Or something like that.
I have NEVER gotten to redline oil temperature, or even close, even in
long climbs to altitude in summer heat. I open the gate at oil
temperatures above about 180, keeping it closed for takeoff. YMMV; the
-4s don't usually have heating problems anyway. Keeping things warm is
occasionally the problem. Ask me about average cylinder head
temperatures: they are WAAAAY below redline.
Michael
RV-4 N232 Suzie Q
________________________________________________________________________________
Anybody give me the contact info for Bob Haan ... producer of the Wig Wag????
Thanks !!
Len Leggette, RV-8A
Greensboro, NC N910LL
315 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Fenstermacher" <dfenstermacher(at)earthlink.net> |
"rv8list"
I'm building the wing.
Question. The plans show the left wing. No problem, cleco'd that one.
When I get to the right, do I reverse the "hand" of the ribs. 710R; 711R; 711L;
712R, etc for the left wing.
Would I then reverse the L's and R's for the right wing?
Man, am I stuck. HELP
Dave
David Fenstermacher
dfenstermacher(at)earthlink.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
Steve cut the panel, and the matching overlay. Then I purchased some EL
lighting and power supply and laid it in the panel. The overlay is reverse
engraved, with a layer of clear on the front, which is how the lighting
shines through. Looked great! Was alot of work, though.
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing/panel/panel.htm
Paul Besing
RV-6A Sold
RV-10 Soon
Kitlog Builder's Software
www.kitlog.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of james freeman
Subject: Re: RV-List: lighted panel
That was probably Paul Besing's RV6, done by Steve Davis. I don't have
the url handy, but Paul monitors the list
On Jan 27, 2005, at 12:55 PM, Evan and Megan Johnson wrote:
>
>
> A while back I had a link to a super nice lighted panel which I have
> apparantly lost. It was a laser etched plastic overlay which made the
> whole thing light up like a sports car dash. Anybody know where on the
> web it is? Thanks in advance...
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dean" <dvanwinkle(at)royell.net> |
Dave
The normal aircraft drawing convention is " left hand shown " and " right
hand opposite " unless there is something different that applies only to one
side. The pitot installation is the first example that comes to mind. My
RV-9A RH wing structure is 100% opposite per my recollection.
Dean Van Winkle Retired Aero Engineer
RV-9A Fus/Finish
Illinois
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Fenstermacher" <dfenstermacher(at)earthlink.net>
"rv8list"
Subject: RV-List:
>
> I'm building the wing.
> Question. The plans show the left wing. No problem, cleco'd that one.
> When I get to the right, do I reverse the "hand" of the ribs. 710R; 711R;
711L; 712R, etc for the left wing.
> Would I then reverse the L's and R's for the right wing?
> Man, am I stuck. HELP
>
> Dave
>
>
> David Fenstermacher
> dfenstermacher(at)earthlink.net
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Nellis <mike(at)bmnellis.com> |
Hi Len,
I don't think Bob Haan is making his version of the Wig Wag any longer.
However, Bob Nuckols has the schemetic for a version using an
automotive flasher that can be see here
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/WigWag/WigWag.pdf
Additionally, Bill Vondane has nice unit on his CreativeAir website
here
http://www.creativair.com/cva/index.php?cPath=24&osCsid=7d3cba5a8de98ebe908f53868b4a2726
Hope this helps.
--
Mike Nellis
Austin, TX
CMRA #32 Honda RC51
'97 YZF1000
'47 Stinson 108-2; RV6 (Fuselage)
http://bmnellis.com
Lenleg(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>Anybody give me the contact info for Bob Haan ... producer of the Wig Wag????
>
>Thanks !!
>
>Len Leggette, RV-8A
>Greensboro, NC N910LL
>315 hrs
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob <flyboy.bob(at)gmail.com> |
Hi Len,
I bought mine from Eric Jones - www.PerihelionDesign.com . . . a
little pricey but a neat, simple, self-contained unit that is easy to
install . . . I hooked in up on the bench with my landing lights and
it worked as advertised!
Regards,
Bob
>
> Anybody give me the contact info for Bob Haan ... producer of the Wig Wag????
>
> Thanks !!
>
> Len Leggette, RV-8A
> Greensboro, NC N910LL
> 315 hrs
>
>
>
--
Thanks,
Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Olson <lolson(at)doitnow.com> |
Here is contact info for Bob Haan
503-579-3675
bhaan(at)easystreet.com
14270 SW Koven Ct
Tigard, OR 97224
They were $90 when I bought mine
Works absolutely flawlessly
No brainer - plug-n-play
Larry Olson
RV6 DVT
>Anybody give me the contact info for Bob Haan ... producer of the Wig Wag????
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com> |
Len:
My original one cost $7.77 from JC Whitney. It went out at 900 hours and
could not find its replacement as it was out of production. B&C Speciality
had one recommended by Bob Nuckols for less than $30 delivered. It is solid
state and the same pinout and form factor as the old mechanial High Beam
flasher that I purchased 10 years earlier.
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
1,627 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.rvproject.com
----Original Message Follows----
From: Lenleg(at)aol.com
Subject: RV-List: Wig Wag
Date: Sat, 29 Jan 2005 18:53:51 EST
Anybody give me the contact info for Bob Haan ... producer of the Wig
Wag????
Thanks !!
Len Leggette, RV-8A
Greensboro, NC N910LL
315 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <sears(at)searnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Vans Service Bulletin - TIP UP Canopy 7 and 9s only |
> It would be nice if Vans kept track of their customers and gave us a
> call/letter/email when stuff like this happens.
>
> http://www.vansaircraft.com/pdf/sb05-1-1.pdf
>
> This looks like a fun thing to be doing for a (nearly) completed plane.
Actually, it's an either or situation. My -6A has the old method of
assembly and hasn't come apart, yet. If you have the older style brace, and
have it already past the point of no return, I'm not sure I'd worry with it.
There are hundreds of tip-ups using the old configuration. Mine hasn't come
apart, yet. Of course, it could fly apart on the next flight. :-) I
wonder why they made the change?
Jim Sears in KY
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Electronic Ignition and starting problems |
| From: | "Chuck Jensen" <cjensen(at)dts9000.com> |
Dale Mitchell wrote
One idea to help would be to get the engine cranking
fast then turn on the electronic ignition.
One other idea is to put a magneto that goes 0 degrees
BTC and use it to start the engine.
That confirms my experience with a IO-540 with a mag and Rose e-ignition. If I
start with both ignitions turned on, I often get kickback. After having replaced
a starter ring gear, I now employ the procedure starting with the mag only,
then immediately turning on the e-ignition when it catches. No problem.
Chuck
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SCOTT SPENCER <aerokinetic(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Electronic Ignition and starting problems |
I thought the Electroair ignitions had a provision for retarding the spark to TDC
or thereabouts during starting use to prevent kickback much like a mag impulse
coupling does (mag impulses have the dual function of winding up a spring
to fling the mag at high enough speed to spark -as well as retarding the spark
to TDC).
I need to fine my EI manual and read up...
I have an Electroair ignition and an impulse equipped mag as well. I always start
on the mag. My theory is that this tests both systems every flight and offers
me a way to get the thing started with a hand prop in an emergency with the
battery dead (the flight would be on one ignition with no electrical -but if
you're stuck in the backcountry... or need to flee a hurricane)
I have a small 12V sealed backup battery going in along with the Dynon (don't like
the internal idea). It isn't enough to start the engine, but I have the intention
to add a switch to supply power to the battery solenoid after such a start,
so as to close it and then be able to charge the main battery (an Odyssey
-they *are* great)
I welcome input...
Scott
N4ZW
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
I have some wig-wag notes on my site:
http://bowenaero.com/mt3/archives/2004/10/wigwag_replaced.html
-
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> Lenleg(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> >
> >Anybody give me the contact info for Bob Haan ... producer
> of the Wig Wag????
> >
> >Thanks !!
> >
> >Len Leggette, RV-8A
> >Greensboro, NC N910LL
> >315 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | Electronic Ignition and starting problems |
I have one mag, one Rose ign., PC680 battery, stock O-360. I start with
both on. No probs so far. I'm running Aeroshell 80 and use a preheater
during the winter so all starts have been easy so far. Maybe that's a
factor.....
-
Larry Bowen, RV-8 60 Hrs.
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: SCOTT SPENCER [mailto:aerokinetic(at)sbcglobal.net]
> Sent: Sunday, January 30, 2005 10:18 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Electronic Ignition and starting problems
>
>
>
> I thought the Electroair ignitions had a provision for
> retarding the spark to TDC or thereabouts during starting use
> to prevent kickback much like a mag impulse coupling does
> (mag impulses have the dual function of winding up a spring
> to fling the mag at high enough speed to spark -as well as
> retarding the spark to TDC).
>
> I need to fine my EI manual and read up...
>
> I have an Electroair ignition and an impulse equipped mag as
> well. I always start on the mag. My theory is that this tests
> both systems every flight and offers me a way to get the
> thing started with a hand prop in an emergency with the
> battery dead (the flight would be on one ignition with no
> electrical -but if you're stuck in the backcountry... or need
> to flee a hurricane)
>
> I have a small 12V sealed backup battery going in along with
> the Dynon (don't like the internal idea). It isn't enough to
> start the engine, but I have the intention to add a switch to
> supply power to the battery solenoid after such a start, so
> as to close it and then be able to charge the main battery
> (an Odyssey -they *are* great)
>
> I welcome input...
>
> Scott
> N4ZW
>
>
> ========
> Matronics Forums.
> ========
> ========
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James E. Clark" <james(at)nextupventures.com> |
| Subject: | Electronic Ignition and starting problems |
As mentioned in an earlier post, we have a similar setup but with O-320,
wood prop and Aeroshell 15-50. I for got to mention ...
The preheater does make a difference in the willingness to start AND there
is a difference in how quickly the engine starts when using both vs mag
only.
James
| -----Original Message-----
| From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
| server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Larry Bowen
| Sent: Sunday, January 30, 2005 11:08 AM
| To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
| Subject: RE: RV-List: Electronic Ignition and starting problems
|
|
| I have one mag, one Rose ign., PC680 battery, stock O-360. I start with
| both on. No probs so far. I'm running Aeroshell 80 and use a preheater
| during the winter so all starts have been easy so far. Maybe that's a
| factor.....
|
|
| -
| Larry Bowen, RV-8 60 Hrs.
| Larry(at)BowenAero.com
| http://BowenAero.com
|
{SNIP}
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Gummo" <T.gummo(at)verizon.net> |
I got several requests to resubmit so that it goes into the archives so here it
is again.
GREEN DOT, NO SPAM
(With apologies to Dr. Seuss & others)
An invitation I got one day,
Gummy Bear said, "Let's go play.
My rocket is in good repair
And so to you I give a dare.
Go upside-down we surely will,
And round and round is better still".
My heart was filled with fear and dread
For upside down I'd never been.
And so, in silence, my mind said....
"I would not, could not, Gummy Bear.
I would not, could not anywhere;
Not in the day,
Not in the night,
Not near the ground
Nor up at height.
I could not do it, Gummy Bear.
I could not do it anywhere".
Then later he said, "My prop is broke.
I can't go fly, my heart is broke.
I cannot fly you upside-down.
I cannot fly you over town.
I cannot fly you through the air.
I cannot fly you anywhere.
I'm really sorry, my friend Dot.
It's purely sad, no prop I got."
So I thought I was off the spot. (whew).
Saturday came and unprepared,
I ran into Gummy standing there
Beside his Rocket, looking great,
Propeller mounted nice and straight.
"We're going flying", Gummy crowed.
"And we'll be upside-down and rolled.
My rocket's tested, flying fine,
So when the meeting ends...it's TIME".
And time it was, so out we went
To prep the Rocket we were bent.
The briefing was a thing of beauty.
Gummy seriously took his duty.
Then when I was all strapped and seated,
Like a prisoner, justice meted,
Gummy shouted "CLEAR" and started
Up the engine. It sort of.......hesitated.
Then roared to life and smooth as purring,
We taxied to the runway luring.
And I thought to myself as we S-turned along,
I could not, should not, Gummy Bear!
Go upside-downish ANYWHERE!
A nice old runup we employed,
And an up sharp takeoff we enjoyed.
The power, Oh, the Rocket power!
It felt like we could leap a tower.
Gummy made that airplane zoom
In a sky of insufficient room
For airplanes made of stuff like that.
It was then that Gummy began to chat
Of crisp controls and snappy rolls.
If I'd take the stick and test them out,
I'd be surprised; I'd have to shout.
So I grabbed the stick, moved to and fro,
And back and forth, and high and low,
But Gummy thought I'd been too timid,
So he, himself, showed me the limits.
"Wow!" I thought, and, "Yikes!" I squealed.
The plane responded, banked and wheeled,
And then he said, "It's time to ROLL!
Are you ready, Dotty? Here we go!"
Would I? Could I? Did I dare?
Why should I fear it, Gummy Bear?
I grabbed his seat and closed my eyes.
Then it was over, a swift surprise.
I couldn't believe it had happened so fast,
And I, still alive, was sorry it passed,
And also, doggone, it happened TOO fast!
So -
I asked if we could try it again,
And Gummy said, "Sure, let's speed up the plane."
Determined to keep my eyes open this time,
Before I knew it, we'd spun on a dime.
(I was glad I didn't wear a scarf,
for into it I'd have had to barf.
Just kidding, my friends, it wasn't half bad.
If you get to try it, you sure won't be sad.)
We drilled the air.
We spun up there.
We turned and zipped,
And rolled and flipped.
We really did it, Gummy Bear!
We upside-downed it way up there!
Old hat for you, but new to me,
Imagination filled with glee
At all the stuff this plane could do-
rolls, steep climbs and speedily, too!
But now it's over, we must return.
Young Eagles to fly. They want to learn.
So back we go and down we land,
A greaser for sure, done with Gummy's fine hand
A pilot's life is filled with joy
When the air becomes a giant toy.
Unlikely upside down I'd dare...
So -
I'm glad you asked me, Gummy Bear.
************************************************
Tom "GummiBear" Gummo
Wild Weasel #1573
http://mysite.verizon.net/t.gummo/index.html
Apple Valley, CA
Harmon Rocket-II
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LARRY ADAMSON" <rvhi03(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Electronic Ignition and starting problems |
----- Original Message -----
From: SCOTT SPENCER
Subject: Re: RV-List: Electronic Ignition and starting problems
>I have a small 12V sealed backup battery going in along with the Dynon (don't
like the internal idea). It isn't enough to start the engine, but I have the >intention
to add a switch to supply power to the battery solenoid after such a
start, so as to close it and then be able to charge the main battery (an Odyssey
>-they *are* great)
>I welcome input...
Figure in getting some power to the alternator field also.............................just
in case you haven't thought about it.
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 1/29/05 8:39:01 PM Pacific Standard Time,
flyboy.bob(at)gmail.com writes:
<< Hi Len,
I bought mine from Eric Jones - www.PerihelionDesign.com . . . a
little pricey but a neat, simple, self-contained unit that is easy to
install . . . I hooked in up on the bench with my landing lights and
it worked as advertised! >>
I also have one of Eric's wig wag modules and it works great so far. It's a
small fraction of the size and weight of other wig wag set ups I have seen
and, unless Eric has had to increase his price quite a bit, it was very
reasonably priced. I am using 50 watt bulbs in my Duck Works lights but Eric claims
that his module will handle 250 watt lights with no trouble. The tower can spot
me in the haze much further out than with the landing lights on steady so I'm
happy with mine.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, flying!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Electronic Ignition and starting problems |
>dzavadil(at)hometownaccess.net wrote:
>I've got a 6A with an 0-320 with dual Electoair ignition.
>I had lot of problems with kickback on starting that I attributed ...................
First STOP: You will break something soon, OUCH.
As you mention, reduced electrical power during start with dual electronic ignition
can be a problem. It is not uncommon. Electronic ignition (Electroair) are
sensitive to low volts for proper operation. A large Capacitor or an extra battery
as you suggest can eliminate this issue. You may have other problems, but
it sounds like a prime cause. Inductive electronic ignitions like the Electroair
do need more juice to work than CDI ignitions.
By all means call Jeff Rose, nice Guy, He will be of help and support you 100%
http://exp-aircraft.com/vendors/electroa.html
Next look at sky-tec, I know you have a different brand but good info here:
http://www.skytecair.com/Tech_Talk.htm
http://www.skytecair.com/images/Troubleshooting%20Diagram_5.0.pdf
Take Care G.
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Duane Zavadil" <dzavadil(at)hometownaccess.net> |
| Subject: | Dual Electronic Starting Issues |
Trouble getting this post into the thread.
I lied, it is an Odessy 925, not a 725. Since it fit in the box for the old lead
acid, weighed about the same as the old lead acid, and given the dual electronic
setup, I thought it prudent to go as big as I could. The plane has Sensinich
fixed metal prop and is always preheated for anything less than 35 degrees.
I've tried the "crank then switch on method" and haven't had any kickbacks but
it is pretty awkward as this is also a fuel injected plane an I have to fidget
with the mixture at the same time.
After digesting these and the responses on the RV-list, I think I'll try the second
battery approach and as suggested, supply one ignition system from each battery.
I can leave the ignition powered by the main battery off for starting.
I feel that second battery is useful from a safety standpoint on a dual electronic
plane.
But that being said, I can't wait to get something like a B&C or that new inline
starter on the plane. I've missed a few flights due to starter issues and never
had any other mechanical issue with the plane. Plane foolishness to leave
the boat anchor on there.
I'll let all know what happens....
Sent via the WebMail system at hometownaccess.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | New RV7A Rudder - proseal stiffeners |
Reference: The new RV7A rudder
Two questions:
1) Does one prime first if using proseal between the stiffeners and skin to
avoid cracking as many recommend? That is will proseal stick to the primer or
should I have bare metal surfaces to start?
2) I assume we still use the glob of the proper type of RTV down at the
Trailing edge of each pair of stiffeners prior to closing up the rudder. Correct?
John McD RV7A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Evan and Megan Johnson" <evmeg(at)snowcrest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: New RV7A Rudder - proseal stiffeners |
use proseal on all of it.....skip the RTV. Proseal is a pretty darn good
glue. I would defiantly NOT prime before applying the sealant...just scuff
up the skin in that area with a red scotchbrite pad. Then wipe it down with
MEK and you are good to go. You can paint over the sealant if you want
to....but you would have to take the works through the priming process right
up until you are ready to paint...then do the proseal, then paint. (you
should wait a week or so for the sealant to set up before painting it)
Cheers....
Evan Johnson
www.evansaviationproducts.com
(530)247-0375
(530)351-1776 cell
----- Original Message -----
From: <JTAnon(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: New RV7A Rudder - proseal stiffeners
>
> Reference: The new RV7A rudder
>
> Two questions:
>
> 1) Does one prime first if using proseal between the stiffeners and skin
to
> avoid cracking as many recommend? That is will proseal stick to the
primer or
> should I have bare metal surfaces to start?
>
> 2) I assume we still use the glob of the proper type of RTV down at the
> Trailing edge of each pair of stiffeners prior to closing up the rudder.
Correct?
>
> John McD RV7A
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Gray <n747jg(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | RV/Rocket Steering Link |
Did anybody out there ever have any success getting in touch with the
guy who sells the RV/Rocket Steering Link tailwheel assembly?
Thanks,
Jim Gray
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <dwhite17(at)columbus.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Andair Air/Oil Seperator |
0.44 FORGED_OUTLOOK_TAGS Outlook can't send HTML in this format
Can anyone tell me a good way to mount the Andair Air/Oil Separator? Did you
clamp it to the firewall, make a mounting bracket and mount with the four screw
holes or what?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Andre Berthet" <aberthet(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | RV/Rocket Steering Link |
Jim,
Turbo Tom, who tragically passed away last week in a car accident had posted
the following info about the Jantzi Steering Link:
---------------------------------
Terry Jantzi, who is inventor and manufacture of the Jantzi Steering Link
has decided that due to other projects and commitments that he is unable to
give the time needed to market and sell the Steering Link. I think time has
shown that the Jantzi Steering Link is great product. I am a friend of
Terry's and a fellow builder. I am currently just completing an F1 Rocket
parts kit. Terry and I have come to an agreement for myself to purchase the
rights to the Jantzi Steering Link. The transaction will take a little time
to put together but I hope to begin filling orders by mid February. A web
site should be coming online shortly. I will notify you of the details as
they come together.
I can be contacted at:
Wayne Hadath
23 Jadestone Crt
Kitchener, Ontario
Canada, N2A 3X7
Phone 519-648-3375
Fax 519-648-3375
Cell 519-589-8352
----------------------------------
Andre Berthet
Pleasanton, CA
>
>
> Did anybody out there ever have any success getting in touch with the
> guy who sells the RV/Rocket Steering Link tailwheel assembly?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jim Gray
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave" <dford(at)michweb.net> |
| Subject: | Van's master relay |
I've been having an intermittent voltage dropout where all avionics go dead or
reset depending if voltage comes right back which it does sometimes. I believe
that the Van's master relay is dropping out. It sometimes happens with normal
load, sometimes as I key the radio mic. Have had to reset master relay off
to on a couple times. Just wondering if anyone has had problems with a master
relay from Van's?
Dave Ford
RV6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fiveonepw(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Van's master relay |
In a message dated 01/30/2005 9:10:19 PM Central Standard Time,
dford(at)michweb.net writes:
I've been having an intermittent voltage dropout where all avionics go dead
or reset depending if voltage comes right back which it does sometimes. I
believe that the Van's master relay is dropping out. It sometimes happens with
normal load, sometimes as I key the radio mic. Have had to reset master relay
off to on a couple times. Just wondering if anyone has had problems with a
master relay from Van's?
>>>>
Hi Dan-
Not familiar with Van's relay, but I doubt it's much different from any of
the others. These things are pretty stone-simple, and I would suspect your
problem is elsewhere. Have you checked all of your connections to verify they
are
tight and that all crimped connectors are solid? (yank them wires!)
Particularly the wire from the relay to the master switch and its ground. Also
no
ground paths at the master switch terminals (or loose switch) where they might
short to the panel or adjacent stuff. Does anything happen when you jiggle the
master switch? (possible bad/corroded switch contacts or weak spring) Does it
happen only when the engine is running, on the ground, in the hangar, only on
Mondays and Thursdays? Can you beat on the panel or firewall and cause the
dropout? Assuming a Main/E-bus configuration, does anything on the other bus
drop out as well? If your starter contactor is fed from the master contactor,
I
doubt you have a problem with the contacts in the master as these things
carry all your starter current sucessfully (assuming you've cranked the engine)
A decent diagnostic may be to connect some kind of audible device (cheapo jap
shack buzzer, car radio etc.) to one of your e-bus fuses (or other points in
your system as you narrow it down) and starting at the battery, start yanking
on connections/wires following feed paths (including master switch
connections) to see if the audio drops out. Ditto for all grounds.
Hope some of this is helpful and good luck!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Olson <lolson(at)doitnow.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Van's master relay |
Yes, I have.
At about 150hrs.
Bought a new one from Van's.
Problem went away.
Let me know if you find a higher quality unit.
I couldn't find a negative feed for activation unit available locally from
Echlin (NAPA)
Larry Olson
RV6 DVT
>
>I've been having an intermittent voltage dropout where all avionics go
>dead or reset depending if voltage comes right back which it does
>sometimes. I believe that the Van's master relay is dropping out. It
>sometimes happens with normal load, sometimes as I key the radio
>mic. Have had to reset master relay off to on a couple times. Just
>wondering if anyone has had problems with a master relay from Van's?
>
>Dave Ford
>RV6
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Knicholas2(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Van's master relay |
I had one fail at only 15 hours! Like I did not have enough to worry about
with test flights...
Kim Nicholas
RV9A 23 hours.
Seattle
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Gunn" <WGUNN(at)dot.state.tx.us> |
| Subject: | Re: Electronic Ignition and starting problems |
I have had an ElectoAir system in place of my right mag for 1100 hours -
since 1996. I have two toggles for ignition and a button for the
starter. In discussions with ElectoAir (Jeff Rose) in 1997, I learned
the system may not default to zero degrees BTDC unless the computer sees
rotation at the timing device. I count two blades while cranking and
then apply power to the Electoair system - no kickback for the last 1000
hours. Bill Gunn, RV 4
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club" <sisson(at)consolidated.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Van's master relay |
Dave wrote:
>
>I've been having an intermittent voltage dropout where all avionics go dead or
reset depending if voltage comes right back which it does sometimes. I believe
that the Van's master relay is dropping out. It sometimes happens with normal
load, sometimes as I key the radio mic. Have had to reset master relay off
to on a couple times. Just wondering if anyone has had problems with a master
relay from Van's?
>
>Dave Ford
>RV6
>
>
>
>
From day one, mine has ran so hot, you cant hold on to it. I called
Van's and they said not toworry about it as it is a continuous duty
relay and will run hot. I think it is running too hot and will fail.
I may blow a little air on it ..... But as of this time it is still
working good........
Phil in Illinois
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bill(at)vondane.com> |
| Subject: | Real Time Weather... |
vansairforce
Anyone have real time weather in the cockpit yet? How does it work?
-Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Van's master relay |
In a message dated 1/30/2005 7:10:29 P.M. Pacific Standard Time,
dford(at)michweb.net writes:
I've been having an intermittent voltage dropout where all avionics go dead
or reset depending if voltage comes right back which it does sometimes. I
believe that the Van's master relay is dropping out.
=============================================
Is Van's still selling the Cole-Hersee brand, as there is none better IMO?
If not Cole-Hersee (White-Rogers or similar) I would recommend you go and buy
a Cole-Hersee at your local boating store. If it is the good brand then
look for problems elsewhere in your grounding circuit to the small side terminal.
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 736hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John" <n1cxo320(at)salidaco.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Real Time Weather... |
I just installed XM WORX weather via Anywhere Map system...have only one
short flight in clear conditions but METAR and TAF came through just
fine...looked down at ABQ area where there was lots of weather and it showed
up just very plainly and crispy...looking forward to reducinig my concern
about summer thunderstorms with this unit. I got it installed in my RV6A
fairly neatly, but power cords are still needed....GPS is 12-channel
Bluetooth, WAAS enabled with rechargable batteries if you want to eliminate
one more power wire, and the XM receiver is also Bluetooth so at least data
wires aren't running around. So my view is that it is a very nice
presentation...also today is the last day of a $200 price reduction by
Control Vision on their Anywhere Map weather system...for what that's worth.
John at Salida, CO
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill VonDane" <bill(at)vondane.com>
; "vansairforce"
Subject: RV-List: Real Time Weather...
>
> Anyone have real time weather in the cockpit yet? How does it work?
>
> -Bill
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Real Time Weather... |
>
> Anyone have real time weather in the cockpit yet? How does it work?
>
>
I've seen the WX Worx XM satellite weather system in action in the last
week, and I am very, very impressed. We were looking for heavy snow on
Friday to do some Enhanced Vision System testing. A band of heavy snow
went through Wichita, but it took so long to get de-iced that the
visibility had improved before we could get airborne. The WX Worx
display was showing the band of heavy precip on radar, and the 5 minute
loop showed it moving towards Topeka. We landed at Kansas City, waited
an hour, then took off for Topeka. We got there before the snow did,
so we set up in a holding pattern at 5,000 ft at the Final Approach
Fix, which was about 5 miles from the runway. We could watch the heavy
precip on the radar updates, and sure enough, the snow arrived at the
FAF, but there was enough resolution on the display to show that it
hadn't arrived at the airport yet, which was only 5 miles away. We
watched the snow crawling towards the airport on every 5 minute update.
Finally the tower reported that the snow had arrived, just when the WX
Worx showed it hitting the airport. Great system!
I will eventually purchase a real time weather system, and right now
the XM stuff is the front runner.
Kevin Horron
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob <panamared3(at)brier.net> |
clamav-milter version 0.80j
on opie.wvnet.edu
Randy
In my opinion one thing that really makes a good sport airplane fun to fly
is lightweight. And it is tough to get much lighter than an RV-3. What I
like is the power to weight ratio. If I were building an RV-3 I would use
the optimum power to weight curve to choose the engine. I think the 180 HP
is probably too heavy and the 0-235 doesn't have the power of a 150 or 160
hp, an O-320 might be just right. I notice on my RV6 that there is a BIG
difference between one and two people.
Lightness counts, take out all of those lightening holes. The driving
philosophy in building my RV6 was lightness. I came out at 1023 lbs not
too bad for a 180 HP. I would have broken 1000 lbs if I had gone with an
160 HP. An RV6 less than 1000 lbs must be a real hoot to fly!
Bob
RV6 NightFighter
At 11:40 AM 1/29/05, you wrote:
>
> > When I was first deciding on what airplane to build at the EAA Arlington
> > Fly-in about 12 years ago. One of the speakers during the RV presentation
> > stated that the if the RV 3 was a 10 out of 10, then the RV4 would be a 9
> > and the RV6 would be an 8, with a Cessna 172 as a 3. If the RV6 is an 8,
> > then that RV3 must be some fun airplane. I can't even imagine flying
> > getting much better than an RV6. I would love to try out a RV3 someday to
> > see what a "10" is all about!
> >
> > Bob RV6
> > NightFighter
>
>
>Bob, that's music to my ears, I'm building an RV-3B. I have not flown a -3
>yet but hear this sort of report from everyone who has. Can't wait!
>
>Randy Lervold
>www.rv-3.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark/Micki Phillips" <mphill(at)gcctv.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Van's master relay |
Phil!!!!!!!!!!!! How about some updates
----- Original Message -----
From: "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club" <sisson(at)consolidated.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Van's master relay
>
>
> Dave wrote:
>
>>
>>I've been having an intermittent voltage dropout where all avionics go
>>dead or reset depending if voltage comes right back which it does
>>sometimes. I believe that the Van's master relay is dropping out. It
>>sometimes happens with normal load, sometimes as I key the radio mic.
>>Have had to reset master relay off to on a couple times. Just wondering
>>if anyone has had problems with a master relay from Van's?
>>
>>Dave Ford
>>RV6
>>
>>
>>
>>
> From day one, mine has ran so hot, you cant hold on to it. I called
> Van's and they said not toworry about it as it is a continuous duty
> relay and will run hot. I think it is running too hot and will fail.
> I may blow a little air on it ..... But as of this time it is still
> working good........
> Phil in Illinois
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Danielson" <Jdaniel343(at)bresnan.net> |
| Subject: | Van's master relay |
You might check the orientation of the master relay. As I remember they
need to be mounted in a certain position. Check the archives.
John Danielson
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave
Subject: RV-List: Van's master relay
I've been having an intermittent voltage dropout where all avionics go
dead or reset depending if voltage comes right back which it does
sometimes. I believe that the Van's master relay is dropping out. It
sometimes happens with normal load, sometimes as I key the radio mic.
Have had to reset master relay off to on a couple times. Just wondering
if anyone has had problems with a master relay from Van's?
Dave Ford
RV6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Danielson" <Jdaniel343(at)bresnan.net> |
| Subject: | Electronic ignition |
A quick question for those running an electronic ignition with a
standard mag.
Do you guys run both when cruising? If you do, how does the different
timing of each unit affect each other, while cruising?
Thanks
John Danielson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming(at)sigecom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Vans Service Bulletin - TIP UP Canopy 7 and 9s only |
Tom, sounds great to me and I cannot suggest anything better. I did not
know you had plans to contact us. The bulletin on the Vans site said we
should contact you I thought. Thanks for your fast reply. I'll be needing
the kit for a completed RV7.
Larry Helming, builder 70047 From: "Tom Green" <tomg(at)vansaircraft.com>
Subject: Re: Vans Service Bulletin - TIP UP Canopy 7 and 9s only
> Actually Larry, we only posted this 7 days ago and we are going to
> mail notify everyone... how else would you suggest we handle this?
> Tom
>
> could se doForwarded by: "Support"
> Forwarded to: TomG
> From: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming(at)sigecom.net>
> To:
> Copies to: "Support"
> Subject: Vans Service Bulletin - TIP UP Canopy 7 and 9s only
>
> It would be nice if Vans kept track of their customers and gave us a
> call/letter/email when stuff like this happens.
>
> http://www.vansaircraft.com/pdf/sb05-1-1.pdf
>
> This looks like a fun thing to be doing for a (nearly) completed plane.
>
> Indiana Larry, RV7 TipUp "SunSeeker"
>
> Evansville, Indiana (just north of western Kentucky)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming(at)sigecom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Electronic ignition |
Yes you should run both when cruising. The timing will advance on the EI
and very closely match the firing/timing of the Mag at cruise rpm. It is a
matter of dual spark that gives better fuel burn compared with only one
spark in each cylinder if one or the other were turned off. And if one plug
goes bad, the cylinder is not missing totally. EI timing changes with rpm
and gives better engine running at slower rpms when its spark is retarted
compared to the fixed 25 degrees of the mag.
Indiana Larry, RV7 TipUp "SunSeeker"
Evansville, Indiana (just north of western Kentucky)
>
> A quick question for those running an electronic ignition with a
> standard mag.
> Do you guys run both when cruising? If you do, how does the different
> timing of each unit affect each other, while cruising?
>
> Thanks
> John Danielson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kelly Patterson" <kbob(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Why the Vans Service Bulletin - TIP UP Canopy 7 and 9s...? |
Hi Gang,
I'm building a 6A with tip-up, but always scrutinize any SB for Van's
aircraft. This SB should apply to the 6 also. My Engineering background
shed some light on the reason for the mod. See if you agree.
The original design has a *potential* failure if you flip the airplane on
it's back. The load (from front to back) must travel through the channel -
into the angle - up the bulkhead - then back through the top skin. This
means there is a 3/4" jog in the load path and the bulkhead is a poor member
to resist bending. To fix it Van's simply added a shim that skips the angle
and transfers the load directly from the channel into the rear skin through
the new rivets or screws. Look at the SB to see what I mean.
In my case I was able to fab my own 0.080 thick shim (YMMV) and drill a few
more rivets through the skin, shim and channel, identical to what the SB
shows. It is not required on the 6, but is a "good thing" so it's now on my
plane. BTW - it won't come apart in flight if you have not done this.
Why Van's didn't include the 6 in the SB is beyond me, it appears to apply
to all of the side by side tip-ups.
Kelly Patterson
RV-6A finishing
PHX, AZ
Original post...
From: <sears(at)searnet.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Vans Service Bulletin - TIP UP Canopy 7 and 9s only
My -6A has the old method of assembly and hasn't come apart, yet. If
you have the older style brace, and have it already past the point of
no return, I'm not sure I'd worry with it. There are hundreds of
tip-ups using the old configuration. Mine hasn't come
apart, yet. Of course, it could fly apart on the next flight. :-)
I wonder why they made the change?
Jim Sears in KY
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Martin Hone" <mctrader(at)bigpond.net.au> |
| Subject: | Re: Electronic ignition |
Hi John,
Depends a bit on whose system you are using. Most take into account
manifold pressure, so that at low power settings the timing will advance in
excess of the fixed mag timing of 25 degrees BTDC, up to 40 degrees BTDC.
At cruise power, this advanced timing will allow you to lean the mixture
more, thereby saving fuel.
Full throttle at 8000 feet would most likely have both ignitions firing at
the factory recommended 25 degrees, but you should have both turned on at
any time except starting or doing a mag check.
Cheers
Martin in Oz
_____
<http://promos.hotbar.com/promos/promodll.dll?RunPromo&El&SG&RAND54666&pa
rtnerfastutility> Block Spam Emails - Click here!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Electronic ignition |
I run 'em both all the time. The Lightspeed ignition will advance at
altitude and gives better economy than mags. If I turn the mag off at
cruise, I can't tell the difference. I think it's along for the ride. If
I turn off the EI, I lose a remarkable amount of power and it runs less
smoothly. I can lean much more aggressively with the EI also. My new
plane will have two of them and no mags.
Ed Holyoke
RV-6a flying
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Danielson
Subject: RV-List: Electronic ignition
A quick question for those running an electronic ignition with a
standard mag.
Do you guys run both when cruising? If you do, how does the different
timing of each unit affect each other, while cruising?
Thanks
John Danielson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Fenstermacher" <dfenstermacher(at)earthlink.net> |
"rv-list" , "rv8list"
I have decided to install only one leading edge landing light from Duckworks.
Is there a convention for which wing?
I'm thinking the right wing.
Thoughts/Comments
Thanks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Question for Das Fed: Aux fuel gauge? |
I'm preparing to close a pair of aux tanks & need some advice on the
requirements for gauges on aux fuel tanks.
Is any gauge required if the aux tank simply feeds a main tank?
If yes, is a simple empty indicator sufficient?
Thanks,
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Duane Zavadil" <dzavadil(at)hometownaccess.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Real Time Weather... |
Hi Bill
Fellow CO resident. I use a Fujitsu LT 600p with XM WXWorxs. I love it. Works as
asvertised. Expensive but it has saved me a bunch of hotel bills and anxiety.
---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
From: Bill VonDane <bill(at)vondane.com>
Date: Mon, 31 Jan 2005 08:21:13 -0700
>
>Anyone have real time weather in the cockpit yet? How does it work?
>
>-Bill
>
>
Sent via the WebMail system at hometownaccess.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club" <sisson(at)consolidated.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Van's master relay |
Mark/Micki Phillips wrote:
>
>Phil!!!!!!!!!!!! How about some updates
>
>
OK......... I had a fuel pump that needed replaced. I think I told you...
I got one off ebay that I am sure is new. It is installed and all hooked up.
I have not run it yet to see its performance. I have about three point
three hours on it at this time.
Not flying much because off weather but when weather is good, I have
been flying with Don Murphy who bought the 6 out in AZ. We brought it
back in about 8 hours flying time from Kingman. It was a rea l pretty
trip home, we passed three snow capped peaks. His airplane was shitting
and getting coming home.
We flew at 9500 feet most of the way except around Albequerque, we went
to 11500.
Van now has the upper and lower gear leg intersection fairings so I
ordered a set.. Then I will put gear fairings back on. I did some speed
runs up at 9500 feet and I am truing out at about 190.
This also verifies with four directional runs that averaged out to 190
ground speed. I think when I get the fairings on it, it will do pretty
close to 200 at altitude....
I need to go back to work so I will have more time. We are planning for
Sun and Fun now. I guess there will be about four RV going down together...
I have been doing a little picking. I am working on boil dem Cabbage
down. I am not fast and not hitting all the notes right yet but it is
starting to come to me. Still singing on Friday nights.
Three weeks ago, I "butchered" a song on the radio oh well only about
10000 people were listening...... They dont know me.......I started out
in the wrong key and I couldnt hit the note right. My old lady said it
sounded very bad...... What does she know about singing?
I hope to fly some this week. Tomorrow, I have to go to SPI FAA to get
CFI renewed. Then I will be good for two more years on it. Also getting
repairmans certificat for RV6........
Thats all. Phil
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Real Time Weather... |
I too have been on WX worx with a fujitsu LT-600 since Sept, and I would no more
fly in the weather without it than I would fly at night without a flashlight.
Could I? yes to both, but why would I????
I have said before, I think here, 70% of aviation accidents are WX related. GPS
is great, but we were not crashing because we got lost. With WX worx, if you
fly into a TRW, it was because you chose to do it. This is a REALLY BIG
DEAL!!!!!
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
dougr(at)petroblend.com
www.petroblend.com/dougr
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Landing Lights |
| From: | Larry Pardue <n5lp(at)warpdriveonline.com> |
>
>
> I have decided to install only one leading edge landing light from Duckworks.
> Is there a convention for which wing?
> I'm thinking the right wing.
You don't say what kind of airplane. In my tail dragger I can not see much
at all to the opposite (right) side, when I'm on the ground. If I had a
landing light over there it would be a complete waste.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://n5lp.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Question for Das Fed: Aux fuel gauge? |
Charlie,
There is nothing required by the regs as long as the mains have a fuel level
indicator. We are planning on doing the same thing on our RV-9A that you
are doing .
Mike
>From: Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: RV list
>Subject: RV-List: Question for Das Fed: Aux fuel gauge?
>Date: Mon, 31 Jan 2005 22:02:12 -0600
>
>
>I'm preparing to close a pair of aux tanks & need some advice on the
>requirements for gauges on aux fuel tanks.
>Is any gauge required if the aux tank simply feeds a main tank?
>If yes, is a simple empty indicator sufficient?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Charlie
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Landing Lights |
> You don't say what kind of airplane. In my tail dragger I can not see
much
> at all to the opposite (right) side, when I'm on the ground. If I had a
> landing light over there it would be a complete waste.
I'm in the same boat...like you said, when the tail is down I can't see much
on the right side at night. But! I have the right wing landing light
rigged for tail-UP. When I land (wheel land, almost always), the right
light is doing the work. Tail comes down, the left light takes over. When
I take off, as I fly the tail the right light comes into play. I find that
with the taildragger especially, you almost need both of those lights,
rigged differently for different angles.
FWIW, I'm glad I have two. Not to mention wig-wag (be seen), which is
almost a higher priority given that only about 5-10% of my flying in the RV
has been at night.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D (365 hours)
http://www.rvproject.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan DeNeal <rv6apilot(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Using car gas and getting a refund from the state road tax |
A friend of mine has just started flying his RV9 with a subaru engine. He told
me yesterday that he can get a refund from the state (Illinois) for $0.19 a gallon
when he buys car gas from Casey's because it includes a road tax and since
he is not using it on the road (Hopefully).
Another friend said he checked into it and his accountant said the state will charge
him an aviation tax on the car gas used and that is higher than the road
tax.
Any thoughts?
Dan DeNeal
rv6a N256GD
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Landing Lights |
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
I recently did this too. One side is useful in a tail-low position, the
other side, tail up. On short final they are both somewhat useful. Only
tested at dusk so far....
-
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
Larry Pardue said:
>
>
>>
>>
>> I have decided to install only one leading edge landing light from
>> Duckworks.
>> Is there a convention for which wing?
>> I'm thinking the right wing.
>
> You don't say what kind of airplane. In my tail dragger I can not see
> much
> at all to the opposite (right) side, when I'm on the ground. If I had a
> landing light over there it would be a complete waste.
>
> Larry Pardue
> Carlsbad, NM
>
> RV-6 N441LP Flying
> http://n5lp.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BillRVSIX(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | crankshaft expansion plug std 1211 install ? |
Hello i am about to pull the front expansion plug on my new lycoming engine
so i can put a hole in the rear plug for a fixed pitch prop.(service
instructions No. 1435) What my question is when i reinstall the new front expansion
plug in the crankshaft do i use any type of sealant around the edge or put it
in dry. thanks for any info
Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Why the Vans Service Bulletin - TIP UP Canopy 7 and 9s...? |
> There is a vertical rib attachment at the bulkhead backside. There is a
> horizontal angle attachment at the bulkhead front side. They connect in
> what looks like a plus sign, and have maybe 2 or 3 rivets in common and
they
> are in tension, not shear (which is what rivets do best).
Yeah, there's the vertical rib, but then there's also the horizontal rib
that runs longitudinally (dorsally?) along the top skin. That horizontal
rib rivets directly to the bulkhead and the channel attach angle can
translate its load directly to it.
I dug through my photos and found this one:
http://images.rvproject.com/images/2002/20021210_f787_clecoed.jpg
And here's another shot from behind that shows how that rib ties into the
junction:
http://images.rvproject.com/images/2003/20030928_riveted_bottom_two.jpg
I'm still at a loss for understanding why that rib doesn't already serve the
same purpose that the SB serves.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "cgalley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Using car gas and getting a refund from the state road tax |
I used to be the case that one could get a refund of the highway tax an
motor fuel used off road, I.E. flying but that was changed over 20 years ago
by the State of Illinois. We used to pay our annual inspection costs via
the refund.
Cy Galley
EAA Safety Programs Editor
Always looking for ideas and articles for EAA Sport Pilot
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan DeNeal" <rv6apilot(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: RV-List: Using car gas and getting a refund from the state road tax
>
>
> A friend of mine has just started flying his RV9 with a subaru engine. He
told me yesterday that he can get a refund from the state (Illinois) for
$0.19 a gallon when he buys car gas from Casey's because it includes a road
tax and since he is not using it on the road (Hopefully).
>
> Another friend said he checked into it and his accountant said the state
will charge him an aviation tax on the car gas used and that is higher than
the road tax.
>
> Any thoughts?
>
> Dan DeNeal
>
> rv6a N256GD
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Landing Lights |
You can save some money by buying redneck halogen spotlights from Walmart.
I think they're 20 bucks for 2. Just remove the plastic/glass lens covers
and side frames. I purchased the pre bent leading edge lenses from Vans to
make it easier instead of bending my own but you can do that as well.
Shemp/Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, N915JD
150 hours
Chicago/Louisville
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Landing Lights
>
> I recently did this too. One side is useful in a tail-low position, the
> other side, tail up. On short final they are both somewhat useful. Only
> tested at dusk so far....
>
> -
> Larry Bowen
> Larry(at)BowenAero.com
> http://BowenAero.com
>
> Larry Pardue said:
>>
>>
>>>
>>>
>>> I have decided to install only one leading edge landing light from
>>> Duckworks.
>>> Is there a convention for which wing?
>>> I'm thinking the right wing.
>>
>> You don't say what kind of airplane. In my tail dragger I can not see
>> much
>> at all to the opposite (right) side, when I'm on the ground. If I had a
>> landing light over there it would be a complete waste.
>>
>> Larry Pardue
>> Carlsbad, NM
>>
>> RV-6 N441LP Flying
>> http://n5lp.net
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Pictures on the Net |
Hi all,
While I was recently obsessing about rib fluting, someone made the
suggestion of posting a picture. Easy enough to take a digital photo. What is
the
protocol for posting? Photos are very data intensive and I can't believe that
they would want them here. So so I make a web site and post, put them in a
photo album somewhere? What's the best thing to do?
Regards,
Michael Wynn
RV-8 Empennage
San Ramon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Pictures on the Net |
Michael,
Scroll down your post to the Matronics info and click on:
Photo Share: http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
There Ya have it.
Pax,
Ed Holyoke
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of MLWynn(at)aol.com
Subject: RV-List: Pictures on the Net
Hi all,
While I was recently obsessing about rib fluting, someone made the
suggestion of posting a picture. Easy enough to take a digital photo.
What is the
protocol for posting? Photos are very data intensive and I can't
believe that
they would want them here. So so I make a web site and post, put them
in a
photo album somewhere? What's the best thing to do?
Regards,
Michael Wynn
RV-8 Empennage
San Ramon
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Landing Lights |
| From: | James H Nelson <rv9jim(at)juno.com> |
Dave,
If you are flying from the left seat, then the right wing is the
best. This is due to the shadows thrown from the light will give you the
best picture of what is in front of you and its relative size. For
example, take a flash light at a dark night and shine it directly from
your eyes to an area in front of you. then move the light off to the
right by extending your right arm at full length and look at the same
area. You will see the difference immediately. Just MHO.
Jim
N599RV (reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Spicer" <spike(at)spikesplace.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Pictures on the Net |
There are people around who sometimes will lend server space to list users, etc.
I don't mind in the slightest if people from the matronics lists want to use the
free galleries over at www.rivetbangers.com. Its all for the RV community so
feel free to make use of it. We have information in the support forum on how to
upload photos. Feel free to use it or ask questions.
-- John S.
spike(at)rivetbangers.com
spike(at)spikesplace.org
www.rivetbangers.com - A marriage of web and mail, building more than just RVs
www.spikesplace.org/cgi-php/serendipity - My 9A Builder's log
----- Original Message -----
From: <MLWynn(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: Pictures on the Net
>
> Hi all,
>
> While I was recently obsessing about rib fluting, someone made the
> suggestion of posting a picture. Easy enough to take a digital photo. What
is the
> protocol for posting? Photos are very data intensive and I can't believe
that
> they would want them here. So so I make a web site and post, put them in a
> photo album somewhere? What's the best thing to do?
>
> Regards,
>
> Michael Wynn
> RV-8 Empennage
> San Ramon
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Glaeser, Dennis A" <dennis.glaeser(at)eds.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Pictures on the Net |
Michael,
You can't attach things to these messages, so there are basically 2 options:
1) Use the Photoshare section of this list
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare .
After you upload the picture, you can announce it in a message.
2) Put the picture up on your own website and put a link to it in a message.
This is the most common solution.
Dennis Glaeser
Hi all,
While I was recently obsessing about rib fluting, someone made the
suggestion of posting a picture. Easy enough to take a digital
photo. What is
the
protocol for posting? Photos are very data intensive and I can't
believe that
they would want them here. So so I make a web site and post, put
them in a
photo album somewhere? What's the best thing to do?
Regards,
Michael Wynn
RV-8 Empennage
San Ramon
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | crankshaft expansion plug std 1211 install ? |
| From: | "Bordelon, Greg" <gbordelon(at)hess.com> |
I put mine it with a light smear of "non hardening" permatex. This has
proven to be leak free.
Greg
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
BillRVSIX(at)aol.com
Subject: RV-List: crankshaft expansion plug std 1211 install ?
Hello i am about to pull the front expansion plug on my new lycoming
engine
so i can put a hole in the rear plug for a fixed pitch prop.(service
instructions No. 1435) What my question is when i reinstall the new
front expansion
plug in the crankshaft do i use any type of sealant around the edge or
put it
in dry. thanks for any info
Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dean" <dvanwinkle(at)royell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Landing Lights |
Dave
I would suggest going with two lights, one on each side with separate
switches and fuses. Bulbs do fail and the second light, even if it is the
one aimed for taxi use, could save you from experiencing one of those "dark
and stormy night" scenarios that we all read about.
Dean Van Winkle
RV-9A Fus/Finish Landing and Taxi Lights
----- Original Message -----
From: "James H Nelson" <rv9jim(at)juno.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Landing Lights
>
> Dave,
> If you are flying from the left seat, then the right wing is the
> best. This is due to the shadows thrown from the light will give you the
> best picture of what is in front of you and its relative size. For
> example, take a flash light at a dark night and shine it directly from
> your eyes to an area in front of you. then move the light off to the
> right by extending your right arm at full length and look at the same
> area. You will see the difference immediately. Just MHO.
>
> Jim
> N599RV (reserved)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | emrath(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | Re:Rv-List: Real Tie Weather... |
Doug, please tell us more. How have you hooked this up, is your LT-600 panel mounted?
I just attended a local EAA meeting on this subject and our man has WxWorx
on a tablet PC (available for $2000 and you have another full computer for
when you travel - his has wifi installed and bluetooth stuff to eliminate cables).
A bit big for an RV, but the Fujitsu or Sony U50 were other good platforms
recommended. Not cheap as our man has $5000 invested. He flies a great
A36 Bonaza, a lot, and can really make use of the info./investment, even on those
local flights of 100 miles. I agree this is a BIG DEAL! Our groups predicts
this will be as revolutionary as GPS, maybe more so. Costs will drop over
the next several years and entry will not be as steep. I've received an email
from the Bonaza list about Control Vision's version and execution and from
the opinon expressed therein, they are not ready just yet (not my opinion but
this my be my option today for use in a RV-6A).
Marty in Brentwood.
From: "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Real Time Weather...
I too have been on WX worx with a fujitsu LT-600 since Sept, and I would no more
fly in the weather without it than I would fly at night without a flashlight.
Could I? yes to both, but why would I????
I have said before, I think here, 70% of aviation accidents are WX related. GPS
is great, but we were not crashing because we got lost. With WX worx, if you
fly into a TRW, it was because you chose to do it. This is a REALLY BIG
DEAL!!!!!
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
dougr(at)petroblend.com
www.petroblend.com/dougr
Doug, please tell us more. How have you hooked this up, is your LT-600 panel mounted?
I just attended a local EAA meeting on this subject and our man has WxWorx
on a tablet PC (available for $2000 and you have another full computer for
when you travel - his has wifi installed and bluetooth stuff to eliminate cables).
A bit big for an RV, but the Fujitsu or Sony U50 were othergood platforms
recommended. Not cheap as our man has $5000 invested. He flies a great A36 Bonaza,
a lot, and can really make use of the info./investment, even on those local
flights of 100 miles. I agree this is a BIG DEAL! Our groups predicts this
will be as revolutionary as GPS, maybe more so. Costs will drop over the next
several years and entry will not be as steep. I've received an email from the
Bonaza listabout Control Vision's version and execution and from the opinon
expressed therein, they are not ready just yet (not my opini
onbut this my be my option today for usein a RV-6A).
Marty in Brentwood.
From: "Doug Rozendaal" dougr(at)petroblend.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Real Time Weather...
-- RV-List message posted by: "Doug Rozendaal" dougr(at)petroblend.com
I too have been on WX worx with a fujitsu LT-600 since Sept, and I would no more
fly in the weather without it than I would fly at night without a flashlight.
Could I? yes to both, but why would I????
I have said before, I think here, 70% of aviation accidents are WX related. GPS
is great, but we were not crashing because we got lost. With WX worx, i
f you
fly into a TRW, it was because you chose to do it. This is a REALLY BIG
DEAL!!!!!
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
dougr(at)petroblend.com
www.petroblend.com/dougr
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
| Subject: | Re:Rv-List: Real Tie Weather... |
As I have confessed here before, Rozendaal is Dutch. (so is Van Grunsven)
Copper wire was invented when 2 Dutchmen found a penny.
I bought my Fujitsiu on ebay for $600 bucks (big bargain I know) and it was
like new.
The Wx Worx reciever is ~$1200 withe the mapping software and the GPS and
both are essential.
Do not hard mount a Tablet because you need to be able to move the screen to
eliminate glare. I have a friend who bought an xplore 104 rugged tablet.
It is the real deal in an bigger airplane, but the RV-4 with IFR charts, and
all the stuff that I keep within reach, makes for a very crowded cockpit.
The Fujitsu works well in My -4 but anything bigger would not.
I mounted the reciever, USB hub, computer power supply in an old lowrance
GPS carrying case that I had so I have a place to coil all the cords and
antennas. It really works slick.
The worst part of this whole deal is, that by OSH next year, I am certain my
system will be obsolete, when Lowrance or Garmin incorporates this
technology in a Handheld GPS unit.
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
| Subject: | Pictures on the Net |
Michael, we are working on a new version of Kitlog, which should be out in
the coming weeks. It will have a way to post your builder's log to our
website, for no additional charge. This way you can accomplish your
builder's log and a website at one time.
Stay tuned. We are in final development of this version, and our new
website.
Paul Besing
RV-6A Sold
RV-10 Soon
Kitlog Builder's Software
www.kitlog.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of MLWynn(at)aol.com
Subject: RV-List: Pictures on the Net
Hi all,
While I was recently obsessing about rib fluting, someone made the
suggestion of posting a picture. Easy enough to take a digital photo.
What is the
protocol for posting? Photos are very data intensive and I can't believe
that
they would want them here. So so I make a web site and post, put them in a
photo album somewhere? What's the best thing to do?
Regards,
Michael Wynn
RV-8 Empennage
San Ramon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Phil Birkelbach <phil(at)petrasoft.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Shutdown problems and fuel selector valve |
I know this is a little late but I've been out of town.
Closing the fuel valve shuts off the supply to both pumps. This is
generally very hard on a pump. You probably don't have the electric
pump running but you may damage the engine driven pump. At least this
is the case on the bigger pumps and compressors that I work with in my
day job.
I don't know who "most people" are but the people that designed the AFP
fuel injection system say that it should be shutdown with the purge valve.
Godspeed,
Phil Birkelbach
RV-7 N727WB
http://www.myrv7.com
Jason Sneed wrote:
>
>I have been having trouble shutting down my engine, the first case I
>had was a slipping mixture cable but now the engine does not stop at
>idle cut off and when the prop does stop it just starts turning the
>opposite direction. so I finally removed the fuel control servo and I
>am shipping it back to airflow performance. I spoke with the builder of
>my airplane and he mentioned he had the same problem shutting down at
>one point and he just would turn the fuel selector to off and when the
>engine began to starve he would shutdown and the engine would quit.
>
>so, I tried this approach before I removed the servo and no joy, the
>engine would stumble but not quit. I pushed the plane in the hangar and
>the fuel inlet hose and the outlet hose were both hanging from the
>engine.... Hummmm, I turned the fuel selector to off and hit the boost
>pump. Sure enough fuel was pouring out of the hose I let about a 1/2
>gallon run out to make sure it was really pumping fuel from the
>tanks...
>
>My question is.... Is this normal? I would think that if you turn the
>fuel selector to off then no fuel would go past the firewall.
>
>Don at airflow wants to sell me a purge valve but I really do not want
>to go that route because most people say it is really for hot starts
>not shutting down. Plus, I like to find the root of a problem not just
>spending more money to take care of a problem by added heavy expensive
>stuff.
>
>Any and all comment welcome!
>
>Jason
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobby Hester <bhester(at)hopkinsville.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Landing Lights |
Dean wrote:
>
>Dave
>
>I would suggest going with two lights, one on each side with separate
>switches and fuses. Bulbs do fail and the second light, even if it is the
>one aimed for taxi use, could save you from experiencing one of those "dark
>and stormy night" scenarios that we all read about.
>
>Dean Van Winkle
>RV-9A Fus/Finish Landing and Taxi Lights
>
>
>
I installed one light (Duckworth) in each wing. I am planning on using
one switch Off-WigWag-On and running off one 20 amp fuse any reason not
to do this?
--
Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
RV7A Slowbuild wings-QB Fuse :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | For Sale delete if not interested |
| From: | smoothweasel(at)juno.com |
I have a used Narco 810 VHF COM that I would like to get rid of. It is
complete with mounting tray and works great. I removed it for a GPS/COM
instalation If anyone needs a good radio let me know. If nobody if
interested in it I will advertise it to others but I thought I would
offer it to the EAA Chapter first.
Asking $650
Weasel
smoothweasel(at)juno.com
662 574 5210
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | sarg314 <sarg314(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | castle nut - bolt line-up |
I am trying to bolt the engine mount to the RV-6A firewall (not the
engine yet). The problem is that for most of the bolts I can't get the
hole for the cotter pin to line up with the slot in the castle nut and
still stay within the 160 - 190 in-lb torque range of the AN6 bolts. I
got some AN960-616L (1/32" thick) washers to no avail. Tom Green at
van's told me to start at the low end of the torque range and then
increase it slowly 10 in-lbs at a time until it lines up. That only
worked for 1 bolt.
Seems like the only 2 choices are
1- over torque the bolt till it lines up, or
2- get some odd thickness washer somehow.
Any suggestions? I *really* don't want to mistreat these bolts.
--
Tom Sargent, RV-6A.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
| Subject: | castle nut - bolt line-up |
Try different nuts on each bolt. Each has a unique thread/castles
alignment. Worked for me....
-
Larry Bowen, RV-8 60.8 Hrs, polishing...
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: sarg314 [mailto:sarg314(at)comcast.net]
> Sent: Tuesday, February 01, 2005 11:13 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: castle nut - bolt line-up
>
>
> I am trying to bolt the engine mount to the RV-6A firewall
> (not the engine yet). The problem is that for most of the
> bolts I can't get the hole for the cotter pin to line up with
> the slot in the castle nut and still stay within the 160 -
> 190 in-lb torque range of the AN6 bolts. I got some
> AN960-616L (1/32" thick) washers to no avail. Tom Green at
> van's told me to start at the low end of the torque range and
> then increase it slowly 10 in-lbs at a time until it lines
> up. That only worked for 1 bolt.
>
> Seems like the only 2 choices are
> 1- over torque the bolt till it lines up, or
> 2- get some odd thickness washer somehow.
>
> Any suggestions? I *really* don't want to mistreat these bolts.
>
> --
> Tom Sargent, RV-6A.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dean" <dvanwinkle(at)royell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Landing Lights |
Bobby
I don't personally contemplate going with the WigWag setup but instead with
the 3 light strobes. I just prefer to control the 2 landing lights
individually. I see nothing wrong with your approach as long as it is wired
and fused correctly. If one of your lights fails, the other one should
still work.
Dean
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bobby Hester" <bhester(at)hopkinsville.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Landing Lights
>
> Dean wrote:
>
> >
> >Dave
> >
> >I would suggest going with two lights, one on each side with separate
> >switches and fuses. Bulbs do fail and the second light, even if it is the
> >one aimed for taxi use, could save you from experiencing one of those
"dark
> >and stormy night" scenarios that we all read about.
> >
> >Dean Van Winkle
> >RV-9A Fus/Finish Landing and Taxi Lights
> >
> >
> >
> I installed one light (Duckworth) in each wing. I am planning on using
> one switch Off-WigWag-On and running off one 20 amp fuse any reason not
> to do this?
>
> --
> Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
> Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
> RV7A Slowbuild wings-QB Fuse :-)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kelly Patterson" <kbob(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Why the Vans Service Bulletin - TIP UP Canopy 7 and 9s...? |
Let's see if this makes sense...
If we try to pull the channel as hard as we can.where would it break? You
have to pull it to find out, or calculate it based on the materials.
If we pull it, it would probably not all pop at once, but instead "unzip"
along some rivets. The 2 or 3 rivets that hold the attach angle to the
bulkhead (and the ribs behind it) would be the first *POP!*. The trick is
to get all the parts to *POP* at the same time.
To stop those 2 or 3 rivets from being pulled apart Van's added 2 rows of
rivets (or one row of screws) through the attach angle, the spacer, and the
skin. Now when you pull it everything should break (skin tears, rivets
shear, whatever...) at the same time.
With the old design the dorsal rib does not come into play since it doesn't
really want to *POP* in our example. That triangle skin double section
(just behind the bulkhead) is what Van's uses to transfer the load to the
rear skin, not the dorsal rib. This rib is really to prevent bending or
buckling of the rear skin, but does contribute to spreading the load.
BTW Dan - your work reeks of engineering craftsmanship, both online and in
the air. We all Love what you have contributed to the RV community.
Kelly Patterson
RV-6A finishing
(when I get done with my week-long Engineering meeting.)
PHX, AZ
> There is a vertical rib attachment at the bulkhead backside. There is
> a horizontal angle attachment at the bulkhead front side. They
> connect in what looks like a plus sign, and have maybe 2 or 3 rivets
> in common and
they
> are in tension, not shear (which is what rivets do best).
Yeah, there's the vertical rib, but then there's also the horizontal rib
that runs longitudinally (dorsally?) along the top skin. That horizontal
rib rivets directly to the bulkhead and the channel attach angle can
translate its load directly to it.
I'm still at a loss for understanding why that rib doesn't already serve the
same purpose that the SB serves.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DAVID REEL" <dreel(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: castle nut - bolt line-up |
Glue a washer to a piece of wood. Cyanoacralate worked for me. Hold the washer
to a disk sander using the wood as a handle. Don't sand for too long or the
heat buildup will melt the glue. When you get the thickness you want to make
your castle nut line up with the bolt hole at the right torque, prime the sanded
side of the washer where you removed the cadmium plating. Somewhat tedious,
but it sounds like you want perfection. I used this method to make washer
wedges for bolt holes that weren't perpendicular to the metal.
Dave Reel - RV8A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Sipp" <rsipp(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: castle nut - bolt line-up |
What about filling or grinding off a small portion of the mount tube itself
to make it slightly shorter?
Dick Sipp
----- Original Message -----
From: "sarg314" <sarg314(at)comcast.net>
Subject: RV-List: castle nut - bolt line-up
>
> I am trying to bolt the engine mount to the RV-6A firewall (not the
> engine yet). The problem is that for most of the bolts I can't get the
> hole for the cotter pin to line up with the slot in the castle nut and
> still stay within the 160 - 190 in-lb torque range of the AN6 bolts. I
> got some AN960-616L (1/32" thick) washers to no avail. Tom Green at
> van's told me to start at the low end of the torque range and then
> increase it slowly 10 in-lbs at a time until it lines up. That only
> worked for 1 bolt.
>
> Seems like the only 2 choices are
> 1- over torque the bolt till it lines up, or
> 2- get some odd thickness washer somehow.
>
> Any suggestions? I *really* don't want to mistreat these bolts.
>
> --
> Tom Sargent, RV-6A.
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | castle nut - bolt line-up |
| From: | "BPA" <BPA(at)bpaengines.com> |
Use a flat piece of glass for a good smooth surface and lap the washer
using 400 grit wet or dry, works great!
Allen
BPA, Inc.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Richard Sipp
Subject: Re: RV-List: castle nut - bolt line-up
What about filling or grinding off a small portion of the mount tube
itself
to make it slightly shorter?
Dick Sipp
----- Original Message -----
From: "sarg314" <sarg314(at)comcast.net>
Subject: RV-List: castle nut - bolt line-up
>
> I am trying to bolt the engine mount to the RV-6A firewall (not the
> engine yet). The problem is that for most of the bolts I can't get
the
> hole for the cotter pin to line up with the slot in the castle nut and
> still stay within the 160 - 190 in-lb torque range of the AN6 bolts.
I
> got some AN960-616L (1/32" thick) washers to no avail. Tom Green at
> van's told me to start at the low end of the torque range and then
> increase it slowly 10 in-lbs at a time until it lines up. That only
> worked for 1 bolt.
>
> Seems like the only 2 choices are
> 1- over torque the bolt till it lines up, or
> 2- get some odd thickness washer somehow.
>
> Any suggestions? I *really* don't want to mistreat these bolts.
>
> --
> Tom Sargent, RV-6A.
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Heathco" <cheathco(at)comcast.net> |
I am considering a move to a Tx airpark and wondered how many RV jocks live in
one, and if so where? Charlie Heathco
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Mader" <davemader(at)bresnan.net> |
| Subject: | lower voltage lightspeed ignition |
After all the conversation regarding kickbacks, etc. with electronic
ignition
I noticed that Lightspeed is coming out with a module which works down to
a lower voltage....(6.5 volts I believe) They feel this will solve a lot
of
problems with kickback because permanent magnet starter draw so much
current. Won't be available until early spring.
Dave Mader
2nd 6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: lower voltage lightspeed ignition |
In a message dated 2/2/05 11:02:58 A.M. US Eastern Standard Time,
davemader(at)bresnan.net writes:
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dave Mader"
After all the conversation regarding kickbacks, etc. with electronic
ignition
I noticed that Lightspeed is coming out with a module which works down to
a lower voltage....(6.5 volts I believe) They feel this will solve a lot
of
problems with kickback because permanent magnet starter draw so much
current. Won't be available until early spring.
Dave Mader
2nd 6
As a matter of interest, here is another comparison of aircraft vs.
automotive electronics. I had previously posted (a long time ago) that I didn't
think that aircraft radios, etc., have the A+ line input protection (load dump,
reverse battery, for example) that I have seen in automobile electronics.
The electronic ignition systems in GM cars function down to 4.5 volts. This
was not an arbitrary number. Testing showed that cold cranking could cause
the voltage to dip this low, and the ignition system was not allowed to be
the short straw (so to speak).
Dan Hopper (Retired automotive electronics engineer)
Walton, IN
RV-7A (Flying except that there is still 4 inches of snow on the grass
runway)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: lower voltage lightspeed ignition |
I was told by LightSpeed that their ign systems will operate down to about
5 volts. Their systems also monitors voltage, if it sees the voltage
getting lower (bad alt) it reduces the amount of amps required proportionally.
>
>After all the conversation regarding kickbacks, etc. with electronic
>ignition
>I noticed that Lightspeed is coming out with a module which works down to
>a lower voltage....(6.5 volts I believe) They feel this will solve a lot
>of
>problems with kickback because permanent magnet starter draw so much
>current. Won't be available until early spring.
>Dave Mader
>2nd 6
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Danny Smith" <dsmit132(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Update on Cleaveland Static Ports |
There was a recent string of postings on the Cleaveland static ports causing errors
in airspeed and altitude. I have been doing business with Cleaveland for
a few years now and have found them to be very responsive to any problems so I
sent Mike Lauritsen at Cleaveland an email and asked him to view the Matronics
- RV list and give me some feedback since I have a set of their static ports
in my not flying yet RV-7A.
Mike responded to me and here's his response;
We have been making these ports with the exact dimensions for 12+ years now and
they are on many hundred flying RV's. Half a dozen of these airplanes are or
were on our field, and no one had any trouble. About once per year we get a
call asking about the height. They are designed to sit .010" proud of the skin
surface. To achieve this you must correctly drill and Deburr the holes, and
countersink the ports to fit the skin dimples. They are very critical about
this and if there is a gap between the port and the inside of the skin they may
well come out flush or even recessed. Also builders today are putting much
more paint and primer on than builders of the past. Part of the problem is if
builders decide to prime the inside of the skin, and the port, and the outside
of the skin... Part of this is due to the basecoat, clear coat process adding
thickness, and part I would suspect is due to a higher application rate with
HVLP guns. If you are going to lay the paint on like this you need to either
modify the port, or paint it so that it too is thicker. As long as you clean
the 1/16" hole out it does not care if it is aluminum or enamel on the surface.
We would be happy to modify the ports if that is what your installation requires,
just let us know the dimensions. I just don't want to redesign something
that has been proven to work because of a discussion from builders that don't
have actual numbers that are showing a trend of the ports not working.
If you have any further detailed information of questions let me know.
Thanks,
Mike
If any of you are having problems contact Cleaveland and let them help resolve
it. They are great folks and it's a shame to just complain and not give them a
chance to get involved.
Danny Smith
RV-7A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: castle nut - bolt line-up |
Tom,
The Standard Aircraft Handbook states that it is OK to over-torque these
nuts to get the cotter pin in. They are not highly stressed engine bolts. The
torque specs are so conservative, that you would naturally over-torque them
anyway if you didn't use a torque wrench. 16 lb-ft on a 3/8 bolt is only a
little over finger tight. 25 wouldn't hurt anything. Just my opinion -- OK
kill me!
Dan Hopper
Walton, IN
RV-7A
In a message dated 2/2/05 8:48:03 A.M. US Eastern Standard Time,
sarg314(at)comcast.net writes:
--> RV-List message posted by: sarg314
I am trying to bolt the engine mount to the RV-6A firewall (not the
engine yet). The problem is that for most of the bolts I can't get the
hole for the cotter pin to line up with the slot in the castle nut and
still stay within the 160 - 190 in-lb torque range of the AN6 bolts. I
got some AN960-616L (1/32" thick) washers to no avail. Tom Green at
van's told me to start at the low end of the torque range and then
increase it slowly 10 in-lbs at a time until it lines up. That only
worked for 1 bolt.
Seems like the only 2 choices are
1- over torque the bolt till it lines up, or
2- get some odd thickness washer somehow.
Any suggestions? I *really* don't want to mistreat these bolts.
--
Tom Sargent, RV-6A.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bryan Jones" <rv_8pilot(at)hotmail.com> |
Keep my plane at a small one about 15 miles south of Houston called Wolfe
Airpark (Manvel). Very informal atmosphere, remote and inexpensive but
growing somewhat. My folks live (and I grew up) at Pecan Plantation, about
40 miles SW of Ft Worth in Granbury. Over the last 10 yrs or so, PP has
grown into one of the premier airport communites in the country, let alone
the state with quite a few planes on the field (and relatively high property
values to match).
Bryan
>I am considering a move to a Tx airpark and wondered how many RV jocks live
>in one, and if so where? Charlie Heathco
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Landing Lights |
>"Dean" wrote:
>I don't personally contemplate going with the WigWag setup but instead With the
3 light >strobes. I just prefer to control the 2 landing lights individually.
I see nothing wrong with your >approach as long as it is wired and fused correctly.
If one of your lights fails, the other one >should still work.
If you already have two lights on the wing, why not use a wigwag? Why cant you
have a wigwag and also still have individual control of the landing lights? I
am not a human factors engineer and can't explain it, but my calibrated Mark
VII eye-balls say wigwags are easily seen and more effective than anything else
during daytime.
Strobes in the daytime are of very little use, in my opinion. Landing lights on
steady have very little visual affect in the day, but more than strobes. There
is something about the alternating flash of landing lights that makes them much
more effective, day or night. The likely direction of a mid-air threat is
from the front, where the landing lights are focused. Being visible to avoid a
mid air is what I am talking about.
As a universal procedure airlines use strobes and landing lights, day or night,
on approach. From the end of the runway it is not always easy to see airliners
landing during the day, especially in hazy conditions. These are big airplane
coming right at you, and you know where to look. Strobes are almost invisible,
and compared to alternating landing light pulses, steady landing lights have
little visual affect. Southwest Airlines is one of few airline that uses wigwags,
as do some business jets. I can always spot the Southwest wigwag on approach
sooner and much further out. It just stands out.
Many wigwag setups are available, not expensive and easy to install, especially
if you already plan on wing lights. You can wire the wigwag and lights to have
as much control over the individual lights as you want. I highly recommend them
(even for day vfr), because I want to see you first. ;-)
Cheers George
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Why the Vans Service Bulletin - TIP UP Canopy 7 and 9s...? |
> To stop those 2 or 3 rivets from being pulled apart Van's added 2 rows of
> rivets (or one row of screws) through the attach angle, the spacer, and
the
> skin. Now when you pull it everything should break (skin tears, rivets
> shear, whatever...) at the same time.
That makes perfect sense, but we're talking about compression, not tension.
Or are we? If it's tension, then I *totally* see the value of the SB mod.
I just thought it would be in compression if the plane flipped over. Guess
it could go either way?
Thanks for putting up with me!
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Landing Lights |
I would consider putting a second one in so you dont hit anything at night
when your first one burns out. I've already had one go bad in a 150 hours.
It isnt a big deal to add a second.
Shemp/Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, N915JD
150 hours
Chicago/Louisville
----- Original Message -----
From: "James H Nelson" <rv9jim(at)juno.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Landing Lights
>
> Dave,
> If you are flying from the left seat, then the right wing is the
> best. This is due to the shadows thrown from the light will give you the
> best picture of what is in front of you and its relative size. For
> example, take a flash light at a dark night and shine it directly from
> your eyes to an area in front of you. then move the light off to the
> right by extending your right arm at full length and look at the same
> area. You will see the difference immediately. Just MHO.
>
> Jim
> N599RV (reserved)
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bill(at)vondane.com> |
| Subject: | single alternator and a small backup battery... |
vansairforce
I am looking to install a small backup battery in my RV to support a few
systems should my elec system take a crap...
Did anyone do this kind of thing on their RV? Do you have a wiring diagram
of how you did it?
Thanks...
-Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry2DT(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: castle nut - bolt line-up |
Take a file and remove metal from mount under bolt until you can get the
proper torque. Shouldn't take more than a thou or two. Worked on my -6a.
Jerry Cochran
From: sarg314 <sarg314(at)comcast.net>
Subject: RV-List: castle nut - bolt line-up
I am trying to bolt the engine mount to the RV-6A firewall (not the
engine yet). The problem is that for most of the bolts I can't get the
hole for the cotter pin to line up with the slot in the castle nut and
still stay within the 160 - 190 in-lb torque range of the AN6 bolts. I
got some AN960-616L (1/32" thick) washers to no avail. Tom Green at
van's told me to start at the low end of the torque range and then
increase it slowly 10 in-lbs at a time until it lines up. That only
worked for 1 bolt.
Seems like the only 2 choices are
1- over torque the bolt till it lines up, or
2- get some odd thickness washer somehow.
Any suggestions? I *really* don't want to mistreat these bolts.
--
Tom Sargent, RV-6A.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Headset/mic hookup. |
Dana,
I don't know if anyone answered this. Yes, the small one is the mic.
Dan Hopper
Walton, IN
RV-7A (In flying condition, but frozen to the ground!)
First question, the "small" shaft is the mic.....isn't it?
Thanks gang,
Remember, February 26th., i39...............working on door prizes.
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY i39
RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
Finish kit
13B Rotary. Hangar flying my Dynon.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com> |
| Subject: | single alternator and a small backup battery... |
Bill,
I think I remember that you are installing a BMA lite G3. Blue Mountain has
a wiring diagram on their website - possibly under EFIS/one support - that
shows how they suggest adding a small back-up battery for the EFIS/one,
since cranking the engine can drop the voltage enough to re-boot the cpu
which is interpreting all the engine instruments.
In my mind a better source is to look at Bob Nuckoll's Aeroelectric book or
website, or the Matronics aeroelectric list archives. Bob has published and
argued several ways of using two batteries, two alternators, two of each or
I think one of each plus an auxiliary battery. I have worked out a dual
battery arrangement for my EFIS/one that I think covers the most probable
bad things happening, but since I haven't flown or tested it yet, I wouldn't
recommend you pay too much attention to it.
Terry
RV-8A finishing
Seattle
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bill VonDane
vansairforce
Subject: RV-List: single alternator and a small backup battery...
I am looking to install a small backup battery in my RV to support a few
systems should my elec system take a crap...
Did anyone do this kind of thing on their RV? Do you have a wiring diagram
of how you did it?
Thanks...
-Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bill(at)vondane.com> |
| Subject: | Re: single alternator and a small backup battery... |
Yeah, a BM Sport G3...
Yes I have seen this... I'm not too worried about that because I will have
the EFIS on the avionics bus, and I don't have that on when I start
anyway...
I am looking into the theory of your main battery being able to power the
essential buss beyond any fuel load you would have... If this is the case
than I don't really need a backup...
-Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: single alternator and a small backup battery...
Bill,
I think I remember that you are installing a BMA lite G3. Blue Mountain has
a wiring diagram on their website - possibly under EFIS/one support - that
shows how they suggest adding a small back-up battery for the EFIS/one,
since cranking the engine can drop the voltage enough to re-boot the cpu
which is interpreting all the engine instruments.
In my mind a better source is to look at Bob Nuckoll's Aeroelectric book or
website, or the Matronics aeroelectric list archives. Bob has published and
argued several ways of using two batteries, two alternators, two of each or
I think one of each plus an auxiliary battery. I have worked out a dual
battery arrangement for my EFIS/one that I think covers the most probable
bad things happening, but since I haven't flown or tested it yet, I wouldn't
recommend you pay too much attention to it.
Terry
RV-8A finishing
Seattle
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bill VonDane
vansairforce
Subject: RV-List: single alternator and a small backup battery...
I am looking to install a small backup battery in my RV to support a few
systems should my elec system take a crap...
Did anyone do this kind of thing on their RV? Do you have a wiring diagram
of how you did it?
Thanks...
-Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVer273sb(at)aol.com |
Listers,
Been experiencing what I call a hic-up in my 0-320 lately.
Seems like one cylinder one time to me.
I changed all spark plugs and it still persists. Removed the right
elect/ ign ang installed a magneto, still did it. Pulled the left elect ign
and installed a mag. Still does it.
This means different plugs, leads and ign sources?
Sticky valves? Pulled all 4 cylinders and had them overhauled.
Hic up is still there. Never know when it will do it and it might not
do it for an hour or so. I can usually get it to hic-up by doing a full
power climb sustained for several minutes.
I am running AFP fuel injection and am back to the dual elect ign.
Tried two sets of the auto plugs last weekend. No help.
The hic-up is never more than one or two hits and seems to never be
more than one or two cylinders. No noticeable change in cht or egt
or fuel pressure.????
Any ideas out there? This is driving me crazy to say the least.
Thank you,
Stewart RV-4 in Colorado
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: engine hic-up |
Better head on over to the Yahoo Lycoming list. I must say, this is a good one!
>
>Listers,
> Been experiencing what I call a hic-up in my 0-320 lately.
> Seems like one cylinder one time to me.
> I changed all spark plugs and it still persists. Removed the right
>elect/ ign ang installed a magneto, still did it. Pulled the left elect ign
>and installed a mag. Still does it.
> This means different plugs, leads and ign sources?
> Sticky valves? Pulled all 4 cylinders and had them overhauled.
>Hic up is still there. Never know when it will do it and it might not
>do it for an hour or so. I can usually get it to hic-up by doing a full
>power climb sustained for several minutes.
> I am running AFP fuel injection and am back to the dual elect ign.
> Tried two sets of the auto plugs last weekend. No help.
>The hic-up is never more than one or two hits and seems to never be
>more than one or two cylinders. No noticeable change in cht or egt
>or fuel pressure.????
> Any ideas out there? This is driving me crazy to say the least.
>Thank you,
>Stewart RV-4 in Colorado
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Landing Lights |
While on the thread of landing lights -- we were driving home from Chicago
today and left early -- before dawn. I looked up and saw a plane heading into
O'Hare that was blinking both landing lights (left and right wings) on and
off at the same time. It seems like this would be even better than wig-wag as
far as being seen. Also, it would work for those having only one light
(duh!). Has anyone ever done this on an RV?
Dan Hopper
Walton, IN
RV-7A (Stuck in the snow here for now.)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: engine hic-up |
Are you leaning in the climb? Plugs fouling? What do the plugs look like
right after this? Any lead?
Air getting in the fuel somehow? I've heard of small leaks in fuel systems
allowing air in while not allowing fuel out.
You did all that replacement & cylinder overhauling...but did you clean the
injectors? Distribution lines? Flow divider? When was it last overhauled?
Those are the first things that came to my mind, at least. My money is on
air in the fuel.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Scott Bilinski" <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: engine hic-up
<bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
>
> Better head on over to the Yahoo Lycoming list. I must say, this is a good
one!
>
> >
> >Listers,
> > Been experiencing what I call a hic-up in my 0-320 lately.
> > Seems like one cylinder one time to me.
> > I changed all spark plugs and it still persists. Removed the right
> >elect/ ign ang installed a magneto, still did it. Pulled the left elect
ign
> >and installed a mag. Still does it.
> > This means different plugs, leads and ign sources?
> > Sticky valves? Pulled all 4 cylinders and had them overhauled.
> >Hic up is still there. Never know when it will do it and it might not
> >do it for an hour or so. I can usually get it to hic-up by doing a full
> >power climb sustained for several minutes.
> > I am running AFP fuel injection and am back to the dual elect ign.
> > Tried two sets of the auto plugs last weekend. No help.
> >The hic-up is never more than one or two hits and seems to never be
> >more than one or two cylinders. No noticeable change in cht or egt
> >or fuel pressure.????
> > Any ideas out there? This is driving me crazy to say the least.
> >Thank you,
> >Stewart RV-4 in Colorado
> >
> >
>
>
> Scott Bilinski
> Eng dept 305
> Phone (858) 657-2536
> Pager (858) 502-5190
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ernie & Margo" <ernest.kells(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Landing Lights |
I believe that I have the best solution - does everything very well at low
cost. I have two Duckworks (left wing is taxi, right is landing). The
AeroElectric List guru (Bob Nuckell) has on-line a Wig-Wag solution which I
used. It rquires buying three things beside the lights - the Wig-Wag and
two switches (ST700-50 if I remember correctly). The two switches have three
positions: OFF, WIG-WAG and ON. The switches operate the taxi and lights
independently. Both lights will wig-wag ONLY when both switches are set in
the middle position (Wig-Wag). No wig-wagging in any other combination of
settings. I walked through every type of checklist situation - seems
elegant.
BTW: I believe the comment on having two lights on one switch is in error.
One light is not an effective backup for the other. If the fuse goes they
both go south. If one light's element blows you are probably okat. If one
light fails - and causes a short you will still lose both. IMHO
> >I don't personally contemplate going with the WigWag setup but instead
With the 3 light >strobes. I just prefer to control the 2 landing lights
individually. I see nothing wrong with your >approach as long as it is
wired and fused correctly. If one of your lights fails, the other one
>should still work.
>
>
> If you already have two lights on the wing, why not use a wigwag? Why
cant you have a wigwag and also still have individual control of the landing
lights? I am not a human factors engineer and can't explain it, but my
calibrated Mark VII eye-balls say wigwags are easily seen and more effective
than anything else during daytime.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | sarg314 <sarg314(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: castle nut - bolt line-up |
Larry:
That worked. Today I picked up a few more AN6-24 bolts and 6 more
castle nuts. By trial and error I got them all to line up within the
160 - 190 in-lb range.
Larry Bowen wrote:
>
>Try different nuts on each bolt. Each has a unique thread/castles
>alignment. Worked for me....
>
>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: sarg314 [mailto:sarg314(at)comcast.net]
>>Sent: Tuesday, February 01, 2005 11:13 PM
>>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>>Subject: RV-List: castle nut - bolt line-up
>>
>>
>>I am trying to bolt the engine mount to the RV-6A firewall
>>(not the engine yet). The problem is that for most of the
>>bolts I can't get the hole for the cotter pin to line up with
>>the slot in the castle nut and still stay within the 160 -
>>190 in-lb torque range of the AN6 bolts.
>>
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Whirl Wind prop fit |
I had fitted my 7A cowl for the Hartzell but finally bought the Whirl Wind
RV200. Before purchase WW said that the fit is the same --- NOT. The spinner
gently rubbed the cowl and there is no adjustment. I'm thinking "hours and
hours of work shot, not to mention the cost of replacing both the top and
bottom cowl halves". I decided to build up the inside of the cowl ring 5/32"
+/- with epoxy and glass and then sanded the front to fit. It's better than
the original Hartzell fit. I made the gap at the top 1/8" and the bottom 3/16"
to account for the eventual engine sag. I'm assumed 1/4" sag (pure guess
work) and ran a computer model to get that 1/16" difference.
There is a photo of the installation at:
http://users.aol.com/n67bt
Bob Trumpfheller
PS, the original was posted on the RV7 list but I thought it might be of
interest to some RV listers as well.
--> RV7-List message posted by: mark manda mark2nite(at)yahoo.com
< If you get a WW RV200 prop now called Titan, you might
want to keep it in the back of your mind that the
RV-7a engine cowling will need cutting,refitting or
replacing. Either the lower half or the upper half.
I'm off 3/32" at an angle so my "fitted for a
Hartzell" lower cowling is a paper weight and a new
lower $445 cowling is being shipped.
I know another RV-7a builder who also has a lower
cowling available since buying a WWRV200 prop.
Supposedly they(the WWRV 200) bolt right on the
RV-8's.
YMMV. >
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DEAN PSIROPOULOS" <dean.psiropoulos(at)verizon.net> |
Len/listers:
I have a schematic for this type of flasher, it basically does the same thing as
the wig wag but without all the frills(turn it on and it alternately flashes
your two landing lights, that's all). The design is very simple and uses basically
4 solid state components that I purchased through Digi Key for less than
10 dollars! I didn't design the circuit but the designer is a Lancair builder
who published it in one of the electronic trade magazines. He was more than
happy to answer my question about using 100 watt aviation lights with it instead
of his 50 watt car halogens (it's plenty robust to operate at the higher
currents needed for the aviation lights). Since the schematic is public knowledge
I'm happy to share it with anyone who is interested in rolling their own
wig wag. Just contact me off list and I'll email you a scanned version of the
schematic and the basic circuit description.
Note: you need to have some basic knowledge of reading electronic schematics to
be able to do this, but this is a simple circuit that could even be built on
a radio schack perfboard if you really wanted to save money. Not for HID lights
(thier ballasts don't like being switched on and off that fast and... if you
have these really bright lights chances are you'll be seen, even in the daytime,
if you have them on)!
Dean Psiropoulos
RV-6A N197DM
Light at the end of the tunnel getting briter.
-----------------------------------------------Original message-------------------------------------
>Lenleg(at)aol.com wrote:
>RV-List message posted by: Lenleg(at)aol.com
>Anybody give me the contact info for Bob Haan ... producer of the Wig Wag????
>Thanks !!
>Len Leggette, RV-8A
>Greensboro, NC N910LL
>315 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "randall" <rv6n6r(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Landing Lights |
> I recently did this too. One side is useful in a tail-low position, the
> other side, tail up. On short final they are both somewhat useful. Only
> tested at dusk so far....
I make a fair number of night landings in my -6 and I'm very glad I have one
in each wing. As others have mentioned, it really helps to have one pointing
up and one down in a tailtragger. BTW these are Duckworks lights.
Also its cool to have a wigwag -- and safer!
Randall Henderson
RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "randall" <rv6n6r(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Van's deluxe tailwheel spring set |
> Has anyone installed one of the so called "deluxe tail wheel springs" that
> Van's is offering? From the picture in the on-line catalog I can't tell
how
> they are installed or how they work.
I have one of the first sets. Installed them on my -6 over a year ago.
They're very nice. I was really glad to get rid of the old screen-door
springs!
Installation is pretty straightforward though not as simple as the screen
door thingies -- you need to cut and drill the SS tab to length, how long
you make it determines how much play you end up with. The feel is stiffer
than the originals but that took about 10 minutes of taxiing to get used to.
Picture on my web site, http://www.edt.com/homewing/rhproject/fairings.html.
Randall Henderson
RV-6
Disclaimer: Okay I admit, it's my hangar mate who designed them and sells
them to Vans.... :-}
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club" <sisson(at)consolidated.net> |
DEAN PSIROPOULOS wrote:
>
>Len/listers:
>
>I have a schematic for this type of flasher, it basically does the same thing
as the wig wag but without all the frills(turn it on and it alternately flashes
your two landing lights, that's all). The design is very simple and uses basically
4 solid state components that I purchased through Digi Key for less than
10 dollars! I didn't design the circuit but the designer is a Lancair builder
who published it in one of the electronic trade magazines. He was more than
happy to answer my question about using 100 watt aviation lights with it instead
of his 50 watt car halogens (it's plenty robust to operate at the higher
currents needed for the aviation lights). Since the schematic is public knowledge
I'm happy to share it with anyone who is interested in rolling their own
wig wag. Just contact me off list and I'll email you a scanned version of the
schematic and the basic circuit description.
>
>Note: you need to have some basic knowledge of reading electronic schematics to
be able to do this, but this is a simple circuit that could even be built on
a radio schack perfboard if you really wanted to save money. Not for HID lights
(thier ballasts don't like being switched on and off that fast and... if you
have these really bright lights chances are you'll be seen, even in the daytime,
if you have them on)!
>
>Dean Psiropoulos
>RV-6A N197DM
>Light at the end of the tunnel getting briter.
>
>
Dean, I would like a copy of the light flasher if you don't mind..
thanks, Phil......... in Illinois
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | castle nut - bolt line-up |
>I am trying to bolt the engine mount to the RV-6A firewall (not the
>engine yet). The problem is that for most of the bolts I can't get the
>hole for the cotter pin to line up with the slot in the castle nut and
>still stay within the 160 - 190 in-lb torque range of the AN6 bolts.
Tom:
You are right you don't want to mis-treat the bolts. Close will be good enough,
say 150 to 200 in-lbs. Get it close and jam the cotter in. This is not a watch
works or engine rod bolts. Before everyone writes in about my irreverence for
standard torque values, let me explain:
First, torque serves two purposes, keeps the bolt from coming loose by friction
and pre-loads the bolt in tension. With a cotter pin we're not worried about
it coming loose. The pre-load tension "stretches" the bolt and compress the part
"stack-up". This can have a positive affect on fatigue life in some applications.
Here we have a rubber mount, which is compressed to a set amount by it's
internal spacer. 10 in-lbs is not going to make any difference to the rubber
mount. Preload tension is critical on on high load, high cyclic bolts, such as
on connecting rods, with 11 load reversals every second. Try to get torque close,
but you got-a-get the cotter pin in, right.
Last, torque and bolt pre-load are only approximately related. If the threads are
dry or "wet" with some oil, even skin oil from handling, actual bolt "pre-load"
will vary more than 5%. A small variation in torque and it's affect on pre-load
is inconsequential for the engine mount, especially since you have no
real way of knowing what the real preload is anyway. It is not that critical here.
Don't sweat it too much, I agree play with washers, nuts-n-bolts is a good idea.
It does not help every time but all you need is close, good luck.
Cheers G
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: castle nut - bolt line-up |
>
>>I am trying to bolt the engine mount to the RV-6A firewall (not the
>>engine yet). The problem is that for most of the bolts I can't get the
>>hole for the cotter pin to line up with the slot in the castle nut and
>>still stay within the 160 - 190 in-lb torque range of the AN6 bolts.
>
You may already know this, but the method I was taught was to torque the nut
to the low value, and see if the cotter would fit. If not, continue
tightening the nut until the cotter fits, or you reach the high torque
value - whichever comes first. If you still cannot get the cotter to fit,
add either a full or 1/2 thickness washer and try again.
KB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill VonDane" <bill(at)vondane.com> |
I have come up with 4 different ways to do this with my wig-wag unit, which
has the same pinout as 'Lectric Bob's... You can check out my installation
instructions, which contain the wiring diagrams, here:
www.creativair.com/source/_inst/exfla.pdf
I sell either just the flasher, or kits with switches and connectors:
www.creativair.com
...or you can source your own parts and roll your own...
-Bill VonDane
bill(at)vondane.com
RV-8A ~ Colorado Springs
www.rv8a.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "DEAN PSIROPOULOS" <dean.psiropoulos(at)verizon.net>
Subject: RV-List: Wig Wag
Len/listers:
I have a schematic for this type of flasher, it basically does the same
thing as the wig wag but without all the frills(turn it on and it
alternately flashes your two landing lights, that's all). The design is
very simple and uses basically 4 solid state components that I purchased
through Digi Key for less than 10 dollars! I didn't design the circuit but
the designer is a Lancair builder who published it in one of the electronic
trade magazines. He was more than happy to answer my question about using
100 watt aviation lights with it instead of his 50 watt car halogens (it's
plenty robust to operate at the higher currents needed for the aviation
lights). Since the schematic is public knowledge I'm happy to share it with
anyone who is interested in rolling their own wig wag. Just contact me off
list and I'll email you a scanned version of the schematic and the basic
circuit description.
Note: you need to have some basic knowledge of reading electronic schematics
to be able to do this, but this is a simple circuit that could even be built
on a radio schack perfboard if you really wanted to save money. Not for HID
lights (thier ballasts don't like being switched on and off that fast and...
if you have these really bright lights chances are you'll be seen, even in
the daytime, if you have them on)!
Dean Psiropoulos
RV-6A N197DM
Light at the end of the tunnel getting briter.
-----------------------------------------------Original
message-------------------------------------
>Lenleg(at)aol.com wrote:
>RV-List message posted by: Lenleg(at)aol.com
>Anybody give me the contact info for Bob Haan ... producer of the Wig
>Wag????
>Thanks !!
>Len Leggette, RV-8A
>Greensboro, NC N910LL
>315 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: castle nut - bolt line-up |
>From: "Richard Sipp" <rsipp(at)earthlink.net>
>What about filling or grinding off a small portion of the mount tube
>itself to make it slightly shorter?
I don't think that is a great idea. The design of the spacer compresses the mount
to predetermined height the engineers calculated was required.
Repeatedly installing the nut and removing it several times to get the perfect
torque will change the threads each time. You are also wearing the finish off.
I would be more worried about repeated on and offs damaging the bolt than perfect
torque. Also each time you install it the change in the threads will affect
how much preload you get for an indicated torque.
Also torquing the nut down should be done in one motion. Stopping and starting
is not going to give consistent results. One approach would be torque to the average
torque. Then make a SMALL adjustment visually to align the cotter pin hole
if needed. Small means less than 1/24th of a turn. If the nut is totally
blocking the hole you can use a (0.003) thicker or thinner washer. Get a stack
of the little thin shim washers to choose from, you will find the washers vary
by several thousands, or as Dave (dreel(at)cox.net) suggested, mod the washer and
refinish it. I have known a few to "smack" washers to flatten them. (.0035)
is worth about 1/12th a turn on a AN6 2/8"-24. You will have the most perfectly
torqued engine mounts around ;-) Good luck.
Cheers G. (RV-4, RV-7 lots of pieces)
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chuck Weyant" <cweyant(at)chuckdirect.com> |
| Subject: | Re: engine hic-up |
I'll bet carb.
Chuck
> > >Listers,
> > > Been experiencing what I call a hic-up in my 0-320 lately.
> > > Seems like one cylinder one time to me.
> > > I changed all spark plugs and it still persists. Removed the right
> > >elect/ ign ang installed a magneto, still did it. Pulled the left elect
> ign
> > >and installed a mag. Still does it.
> > > This means different plugs, leads and ign sources?
> > > Sticky valves? Pulled all 4 cylinders and had them overhauled.
> > >Hic up is still there. Never know when it will do it and it might not
> > >do it for an hour or so. I can usually get it to hic-up by doing a full
> > >power climb sustained for several minutes.
> > > I am running AFP fuel injection and am back to the dual elect ign.
> > > Tried two sets of the auto plugs last weekend. No help.
> > >The hic-up is never more than one or two hits and seems to never be
> > >more than one or two cylinders. No noticeable change in cht or egt
> > >or fuel pressure.????
> > > Any ideas out there? This is driving me crazy to say the least.
> > >Thank you,
> > >Stewart RV-4 in Colorado
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard V. Reynolds" <rvreynolds(at)macs.net> |
| Subject: | Re: February 26th. RV flyin |
OK, it may be intuitively obvious to the most casual observer, BUT I do not
have a clue where this fly-in is.
Five simple rules:
who
what
where (you forgot this! State, City, Airport Name, Identifer)
when (start and end times)
why
Richard Reynolds
PS You are not the only one who makes this mistake.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bobby Hester" <bhester(at)hopkinsville.net> (by way of Matt Dralle <nospam(at)matronics.com>) |
| Subject: | Re: [RV7Yahoo] RE: Electrical Tools |
of Matt Dralle )
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Frank Stringham <fstringham7a(at)yahoo.com>
> Date: Thu, 3 Feb 2005 06:35 (CDT)
> Subject: [RV7Yahoo] RE: Electrical Tools
>
> Hi to all
>
> Ready to start the electrical process and need to get tools. What have you
> folks found to be a good set / type / name brand electrical tools to buy. I
> do know my house construction electrical tools are a bit much for the
> planes delicate wires and materials.
>
> TIA
You can get everything you need here:
http://www.bandc.biz/parts.html
http://www.steinair.com/
You'll need:
RCT-1 - PIDG Style Crimp Tool
RCT-2 - BNC Coax Crimp Tool
RCT-3 - D-Sub Pin/Socket Crimper (maybe)
BCT-1 - B-Crimp Open Barrel Terminal Tool (maybe)
DSE-1 - Insertion/Extraction Tool - D-Sub Pin (maybe)
-------
Surfing the web from Hopkinsville, KY
RV7A web site: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob J <rocketbob(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: engine hic-up |
did you run it on mag-only, without the ignition on? Which ignition?
Electroair?
Regards,
Bob Japundza
RV-6 flying, F1 under const.
wrote:
>
> Listers,
> Been experiencing what I call a hic-up in my 0-320 lately.
> Seems like one cylinder one time to me.
> I changed all spark plugs and it still persists. Removed the right
> elect/ ign ang installed a magneto, still did it. Pulled the left elect ign
> and installed a mag. Still does it.
> This means different plugs, leads and ign sources?
> Sticky valves? Pulled all 4 cylinders and had them overhauled.
> Hic up is still there. Never know when it will do it and it might not
> do it for an hour or so. I can usually get it to hic-up by doing a full
> power climb sustained for several minutes.
> I am running AFP fuel injection and am back to the dual elect ign.
> Tried two sets of the auto plugs last weekend. No help.
> The hic-up is never more than one or two hits and seems to never be
> more than one or two cylinders. No noticeable change in cht or egt
> or fuel pressure.????
> Any ideas out there? This is driving me crazy to say the least.
> Thank you,
> Stewart RV-4 in Colorado
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob J <rocketbob(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: engine hic-up |
did you run it on mag-only, without the ignition on? Which ignition?
Electroair?
Regards,
Bob Japundza
RV-6 flying, F1 under const.
wrote:
>
> Listers,
> Been experiencing what I call a hic-up in my 0-320 lately.
> Seems like one cylinder one time to me.
> I changed all spark plugs and it still persists. Removed the right
> elect/ ign ang installed a magneto, still did it. Pulled the left elect ign
> and installed a mag. Still does it.
> This means different plugs, leads and ign sources?
> Sticky valves? Pulled all 4 cylinders and had them overhauled.
> Hic up is still there. Never know when it will do it and it might not
> do it for an hour or so. I can usually get it to hic-up by doing a full
> power climb sustained for several minutes.
> I am running AFP fuel injection and am back to the dual elect ign.
> Tried two sets of the auto plugs last weekend. No help.
> The hic-up is never more than one or two hits and seems to never be
> more than one or two cylinders. No noticeable change in cht or egt
> or fuel pressure.????
> Any ideas out there? This is driving me crazy to say the least.
> Thank you,
> Stewart RV-4 in Colorado
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wayne @ Aircraft Engravers" <wayne(at)engravers.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Landing Lights |
I even have wig-wag lights on my Powered Parachute because I fly out of
airport that gets a lot of transient traffic. I want to be seen especially
after sun set or during overcast days. I been told that I look like a
Christmas tree all lit up and can be seen from miles away, just the purpose
I was intending.
I made mine from a solid state unit used in police cars. Two 55 watt fog
lights throw a nice wide pattern to be seen from greater angles off center
line of my craft. This still gives me plenty of forward light to land at 30
MPH. Not that I need a lot of light to land since I'm only allowed to fly
up to a half an hour after sun set.
Wayne
----- Original Message -----
From: "randall" <rv6n6r(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Landing Lights
>
>> I recently did this too. One side is useful in a tail-low position, the
>> other side, tail up. On short final they are both somewhat useful. Only
>> tested at dusk so far....
>
> I make a fair number of night landings in my -6 and I'm very glad I have
> one
> in each wing. As others have mentioned, it really helps to have one
> pointing
> up and one down in a tailtragger. BTW these are Duckworks lights.
>
> Also its cool to have a wigwag -- and safer!
>
> Randall Henderson
> RV-6
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tony Marshall" <tony(at)lambros.com> |
When you say 'hic-up' what do you mean? A slight pause in acceleration? A
misfire of a couple of cylinders? I'm just not sure what you mean.....and
the reason I ask is that my 0360, at low rpms, after deceleration (like
adding throttle in base to final), with or without boost pump, pauses
instantaneously, but always catches. I would like to get rid of that, too,
but am not sure what causes it. Otherwise the engine performs flawlessly.
Tony Marshall
RV6
Polson MT
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chuck Weyant" <cweyant(at)chuckdirect.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: engine hic-up
>
> I'll bet carb.
> Chuck
>
>> > >Listers,
>> > > Been experiencing what I call a hic-up in my 0-320 lately.
>> > > Seems like one cylinder one time to me.
>> > > I changed all spark plugs and it still persists. Removed the right
>> > >elect/ ign ang installed a magneto, still did it. Pulled the left
>> > >elect
>> ign
>> > >and installed a mag. Still does it.
>> > > This means different plugs, leads and ign sources?
>> > > Sticky valves? Pulled all 4 cylinders and had them overhauled.
>> > >Hic up is still there. Never know when it will do it and it might not
>> > >do it for an hour or so. I can usually get it to hic-up by doing a
>> > >full
>> > >power climb sustained for several minutes.
>> > > I am running AFP fuel injection and am back to the dual elect ign.
>> > > Tried two sets of the auto plugs last weekend. No help.
>> > >The hic-up is never more than one or two hits and seems to never be
>> > >more than one or two cylinders. No noticeable change in cht or egt
>> > >or fuel pressure.????
>> > > Any ideas out there? This is driving me crazy to say the least.
>> > >Thank you,
>> > >Stewart RV-4 in Colorado
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)excelgeo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: engine hic-up |
Me too. But I think Stewart is running with an AFP FI system.
Gary
Chuck Weyant wrote:
>
> I'll bet carb.
> Chuck
>
>
>>>>Listers,
>>>> Been experiencing what I call a hic-up in my 0-320 lately.
>>>> Seems like one cylinder one time to me.
>>>> I changed all spark plugs and it still persists. Removed the right
>>>>elect/ ign ang installed a magneto, still did it. Pulled the left elect
>>
>>ign
>>
>>>>and installed a mag. Still does it.
>>>> This means different plugs, leads and ign sources?
>>>> Sticky valves? Pulled all 4 cylinders and had them overhauled.
>>>>Hic up is still there. Never know when it will do it and it might not
>>>>do it for an hour or so. I can usually get it to hic-up by doing a full
>>>>power climb sustained for several minutes.
>>>> I am running AFP fuel injection and am back to the dual elect ign.
>>>> Tried two sets of the auto plugs last weekend. No help.
>>>>The hic-up is never more than one or two hits and seems to never be
>>>>more than one or two cylinders. No noticeable change in cht or egt
>>>>or fuel pressure.????
>>>> Any ideas out there? This is driving me crazy to say the least.
>>>>Thank you,
>>>>Stewart RV-4 in Colorado
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
Tony,
That is usually a symptom of an accelerator pump in the carb not working
correctly. Not always, but usually.
Mike Robertson
>From: "Tony Marshall" <tony(at)lambros.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: engine hic-up
>Date: Thu, 3 Feb 2005 10:38:20 -0700
>
>
>When you say 'hic-up' what do you mean? A slight pause in acceleration? A
>misfire of a couple of cylinders? I'm just not sure what you mean.....and
>the reason I ask is that my 0360, at low rpms, after deceleration (like
>adding throttle in base to final), with or without boost pump, pauses
>instantaneously, but always catches. I would like to get rid of that, too,
>but am not sure what causes it. Otherwise the engine performs flawlessly.
>
>Tony Marshall
>RV6
>Polson MT
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Chuck Weyant" <cweyant(at)chuckdirect.com>
>To:
>Subject: Re: RV-List: engine hic-up
>
>
> >
> > I'll bet carb.
> > Chuck
> >
> >> > >Listers,
> >> > > Been experiencing what I call a hic-up in my 0-320 lately.
> >> > > Seems like one cylinder one time to me.
> >> > > I changed all spark plugs and it still persists. Removed the right
> >> > >elect/ ign ang installed a magneto, still did it. Pulled the left
> >> > >elect
> >> ign
> >> > >and installed a mag. Still does it.
> >> > > This means different plugs, leads and ign sources?
> >> > > Sticky valves? Pulled all 4 cylinders and had them overhauled.
> >> > >Hic up is still there. Never know when it will do it and it might
>not
> >> > >do it for an hour or so. I can usually get it to hic-up by doing a
> >> > >full
> >> > >power climb sustained for several minutes.
> >> > > I am running AFP fuel injection and am back to the dual elect ign.
> >> > > Tried two sets of the auto plugs last weekend. No help.
> >> > >The hic-up is never more than one or two hits and seems to never be
> >> > >more than one or two cylinders. No noticeable change in cht or egt
> >> > >or fuel pressure.????
> >> > > Any ideas out there? This is driving me crazy to say the least.
> >> > >Thank you,
> >> > >Stewart RV-4 in Colorado
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stucklen, Frederic W UTPWR" <Fred.Stucklen(at)UTCFuelCells.com> |
Stewart,
What is the 10-XXXX number on your carb? Some carbs have the float bowl
vent 90* to the intake air, some have them perpendicular to the intake air
path.
I had a 10-10XX body carb that would produce a hic-up as the ram air
pressure
began to exceed the intake suction. It turned out to be the bowl vent/airbox
combination that was causing the problem. Changing out the carb to a
different
body 10-XXXX number (with a different vent configuration) solved the
problem.
Fred Stucklen
RV-6A N926RV
From: RVer273sb(at)aol.com <mailto:RVer273sb(at)aol.com>
Subject: engine hic-up
Listers,
Been experiencing what I call a hic-up in my 0-320 lately.
Seems like one cylinder one time to me.
I changed all spark plugs and it still persists. Removed the right
elect/ ign ang installed a magneto, still did it. Pulled the left
elect ign
and installed a mag. Still does it.
This means different plugs, leads and ign sources?
Sticky valves? Pulled all 4 cylinders and had them overhauled.
Hic up is still there. Never know when it will do it and it might not
do it for an hour or so. I can usually get it to hic-up by doing a
full
power climb sustained for several minutes.
I am running AFP fuel injection and am back to the dual elect ign.
Tried two sets of the auto plugs last weekend. No help.
The hic-up is never more than one or two hits and seems to never be
more than one or two cylinders. No noticeable change in cht or egt
or fuel pressure.????
Any ideas out there? This is driving me crazy to say the least.
Thank you,
Stewart RV-4 in Colorado
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James E. Clark" <james(at)nextupventures.com> |
Trying one more time. Email bounced before ...
Stewart,
What electronic ignition are you using?
I went through a series of "vibrations" during the test period of our RV6
- O-320 (160 HP)
- Fixed pitch, Ed Sterba Wood Prop
- Carbureted
- Jeff Ross (ElectroAir) EI + 1 magneto
One of them was what I described as a "pop" on climb out.
(A bit disconcerting to say the least)
In the end, the problem was traced to a plug wire from the EI. Jeff did a
wonderful (and patient) job of explaining why if this wire was not done
correctly as described, that this *could* happen under max load on the
cylinders. As I recall, there was a condition where the spark would arc to
the engine block or something of that nature. Went back and re-did the
connection and no more such problems. It was 400 hours ago so I forget all
the details.
This is just another thing to consider **IF** you are using the ElectroAir
EI.
James
| -----Original Message-----
| From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
| server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of RVer273sb(at)aol.com
| Sent: Wednesday, February 02, 2005 6:00 PM
| To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
| Subject: RV-List: engine hic-up
|
|
| Listers,
| Been experiencing what I call a hic-up in my 0-320 lately.
| Seems like one cylinder one time to me.
| I changed all spark plugs and it still persists. Removed the right
| elect/ ign ang installed a magneto, still did it. Pulled the left elect
| ign
| and installed a mag. Still does it.
| This means different plugs, leads and ign sources?
| Sticky valves? Pulled all 4 cylinders and had them overhauled.
| Hic up is still there. Never know when it will do it and it might not
| do it for an hour or so. I can usually get it to hic-up by doing a full
| power climb sustained for several minutes.
| I am running AFP fuel injection and am back to the dual elect ign.
| Tried two sets of the auto plugs last weekend. No help.
| The hic-up is never more than one or two hits and seems to never be
| more than one or two cylinders. No noticeable change in cht or egt
| or fuel pressure.????
| Any ideas out there? This is driving me crazy to say the least.
| Thank you,
| Stewart RV-4 in Colorado
|
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | sarg314 <sarg314(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | torque wrench calibration |
Since I am hanging the engine mount and carefully toquing bolts, it
occurred to me that I should have my old torque wrench calibrated. (I
have the "click" type torque wrench that you set by turning the
handle.) Calibration cost $30. The thing was fairly accurate at the
high end (200in-lb) but had 3 or 4 in-lb error at the low end, which is
a lot percentage-wise. The guy was able to adjust it to +- a fraction
of a in-lb over it's whole range. I gather A&P's have to get theirs
calibrated regularly and have the certificate to prove it to the FAA.
Just thought I'd mention it since many may not have thought about it. A
few in-lbs isn't going to make your plane fall out of the sky, but I am
glad I did it.
--
Tom Sargent, RV-6A, firewall.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVer273sb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: engine hic-up |
James,
Am running the dual E-mag system. Have also
put the mags back on with the mag harness ect.
Thanks for the feedback.
Stewart
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Furey" <john(at)fureychrysler.com> |
| Subject: | torque wrench calibration |
Where did you get it calibrated?
John Furey
RV6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Konrad L. Werner" <klwerner(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Weighty Question |
Greetings everyone,
Does anyone know what the difference in weight would be between the following two
options:
A: 200hp / IO-360 Angle Valve with a Craig Catto F.P.Prop
B: 180hp / O-360 Parallel Valve with a Hartzell C.S.Propeller
I know that there is a significant weight increase between the 200hp versus the
180hp Engine.
I also know that a Craig Catto FP Prop is much lighter than a complete Hartzell
CS Setup: Propeller, Governor, Oil Line, Linkage,etc.
Questions:
Which of the two combinations would be the lighter version (or perhaps they are
equal in weight?), and how would a 200hp/FP compare to the 180hp/CS in climb
and cruise?
Thanks,
Konrad
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DOUGPFLYRV(at)aol.com |
Dean, I would appreciate a copy of your wig wag info.
Thanks,
Doug Preston
RV7A
N731RV
BHM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Finn Lassen <finn.lassen(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: torque wrench calibration |
How about clamping it in a vice, handle horizontal, and hanging a known
weight a measured distance out on the handle.
For example 2 lbs 12 inches from the vice should make it click at 24
inch-pounds setting but not at 25 in-lbs.
Or use a fish scale to pull it (at 90 degrees to the handle), read the
scale when it clicks.
You'll only be using 2 or 3 settings anyway, so it should be easy to
calibrate.
Finn
John Furey wrote:
>
>Where did you get it calibrated?
>
>John Furey
>RV6A
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | sarg314 <sarg314(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: torque wrench calibration |
John:
I looked in the yellow pages under calibration. Tucson is big
enough now to have a couple of calibration outfits. They do all sorts
of instruments, electronic devices, even optical calibrations.
John Furey wrote:
>
>Where did you get it calibrated?
>
>John Furey
>RV6A
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | sarg314 <sarg314(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: torque wrench calibration |
Finn:
I think that actually works if you do it carefully. But, the pros
have some experience and equipment that makes it worth it, I think.
I have used a fish scale on an open end wrench for tightening nuts
in those hard to get at places where I couldn't get the big torque
wrench in.
--
Tom S.
Finn Lassen wrote:
>
>How about clamping it in a vice, handle horizontal, and hanging a known
>weight a measured distance out on the handle.
>For example 2 lbs 12 inches from the vice should make it click at 24
>inch-pounds setting but not at 25 in-lbs.
>
>Or use a fish scale to pull it (at 90 degrees to the handle), read the
>scale when it clicks.
>
>You'll only be using 2 or 3 settings anyway, so it should be easy to
>calibrate.
>
>Finn
>
>John Furey wrote:
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Sipp" <rsipp(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: castle nut - bolt line-up |
Perhaps I mis-read the original question, I thought he was referring to the
bolts that attach the engine mount to the firewall not the engine to the
mount.
Dick Sipp
----- Original Message -----
From: <gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: castle nut - bolt line-up
>
>
>>From: "Richard Sipp" <rsipp(at)earthlink.net>
>>What about filling or grinding off a small portion of the mount tube
>>itself to make it slightly shorter?
>
> I don't think that is a great idea. The design of the spacer compresses
> the mount to predetermined height the engineers calculated was required.
>
> Repeatedly installing the nut and removing it several times to get the
> perfect torque will change the threads each time. You are also wearing the
> finish off. I would be more worried about repeated on and offs damaging
> the bolt than perfect torque. Also each time you install it the change in
> the threads will affect how much preload you get for an indicated torque.
>
> Also torquing the nut down should be done in one motion. Stopping and
> starting is not going to give consistent results. One approach would be
> torque to the average torque. Then make a SMALL adjustment visually to
> align the cotter pin hole if needed. Small means less than 1/24th of a
> turn. If the nut is totally blocking the hole you can use a (0.003)
> thicker or thinner washer. Get a stack of the little thin shim washers to
> choose from, you will find the washers vary by several thousands, or as
> Dave (dreel(at)cox.net) suggested, mod the washer and refinish it. I have
> known a few to "smack" washers to flatten them. (.0035) is worth about
> 1/12th a turn on a AN6 2/8"-24. You will have the most perfectly torqued
> engine mounts around ;-) Good luck.
>
> Cheers G. (RV-4, RV-7 lots of pieces)
>
>
> ---------------------------------
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kathleen (rv7)" <kathleen(at)rv7.us> |
| Subject: | torque wrench calibration |
I actually did the measured weight 12 inches out thing with my new torque
wrench and it came out so close on the first try that I didn't give it any
more thought...
Kathleen Evans
www.rv7.us
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of sarg314
Subject: Re: RV-List: torque wrench calibration
John:
I looked in the yellow pages under calibration. Tucson is big
enough now to have a couple of calibration outfits. They do all sorts
of instruments, electronic devices, even optical calibrations.
John Furey wrote:
>
>Where did you get it calibrated?
>
>John Furey
>RV6A
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming(at)sigecom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: torque wrench calibration |
A couple of years ago at our local EAA #21 meeting Bob Moehlenkamp had a
device that would digitally display the torque. Everyone in the club were
invited to bring their wrenches and check them out for free. I had three
and they ranged from 20 years old to nearly brand new and they all were
within a pound of being right. When I had my engine built by Mattituck,
they were very careful to double check the torque by using more than one
tool for the critical attachments like the cylinder heads and case halves,
etc.... AND they calibrate their tools every 3 months on top of that. I
know that Sears will recalibrate their craftsmen torques but I don't think
it is cheap.
If anyone want to contact Bob his number in Indiana is (812) 985-3472. Nice
guy.
Indiana Larry, RV7 TipUp "SunSeeker"
Evansville, Indiana (just north of western Kentucky)
>
> I actually did the measured weight 12 inches out thing with my new torque
> wrench and it came out so close on the first try that I didn't give it any
> more thought...
>
> Kathleen Evans
> www.rv7.us
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of sarg314
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: torque wrench calibration
>
>
> John:
> I looked in the yellow pages under calibration. Tucson is big
> enough now to have a couple of calibration outfits. They do all sorts
> of instruments, electronic devices, even optical calibrations.
>
> John Furey wrote:
>
> >
> >Where did you get it calibrated?
> >
> >John Furey
> >RV6A
> >
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Grimmonpre" <jerry(at)mc.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Weighty Question |
To the experienced heads out there:
What is the ENGINE weight difference between a flying 180HP and a flying
160HP?
What would it take to get 165 to 170HP out of a basic 160HP Lyc?
Realistically ... how much can a 160HP Lyc be squeezed (higher compression)
and still make TBO with reasonable smoothness? Can normal TBO even be
expected? What parts are likely to be impacted the most?
Is it less complicated to just leave it at 160HP and enjoy the ride to full
TBO?
Thanks ...
Jerry Grimmonpre
7A
> A 200HP ANGLE VALVE ENGINE IS ABOUT 30 LB HEAVIER THAN A 180 HP PARALLELL
> VALVE ENGINE.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: torque wrench calibration |
In a message dated 2/4/05 3:03:52 A.M. US Eastern Standard Time,
finn.lassen(at)verizon.net writes:
How about clamping it in a vice, handle horizontal, and hanging a known
weight a measured distance out on the handle.
For example 2 lbs 12 inches from the vice should make it click at 24
inch-pounds setting but not at 25 in-lbs.
Or use a fish scale to pull it (at 90 degrees to the handle), read the
scale when it clicks.
You'll only be using 2 or 3 settings anyway, so it should be easy to
calibrate.
Finn
This works to some degree. What is the torque added by the weight of the
handle? Things are never as simple as they seem!
Dan Hopper
Walton, IN
RV-7A (In flying condition, waiting for snow to melt some.)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Confused About Torque Specifications |
Listers,
I have to wonder how critical these bolt torque specifications really are.
Let me give you an example of why I say this. One would think that dry bolt
torque specs would be greater than for oiled threads, wouldn't you? I mean
the clamping force would be increased if you oiled the threads, then tightened
to the dry spec.
But, for example:
The Standard Aircraft Handbook says to torque a 3/8 - 24 nut 160 - 190 in-lb
for dry threads. (You have to read the text after the table to find the
reference to unlubricated cadmium plated steel nuts.)
The Continental O-200 Overhaul Manual says 275.0 - 325.0 in-lb for oiled
threads under General Use Tightening Torques. It says for cotter pins, go to
the low spec then continue until the cotter pin lines up.
The latter spec is not for connecting rods. Those call for 400 - 475 in-lb
for 3/8 - 24 threads. These must be better steel, so don't go this tight
with standard AN bolts!
All this is really confusing to me. Can anyone set me straight? When can
you be sure the table you are using applies to your particular situation? I
know that I should use specs published in the maintenance manual when possible.
Dan Hopper
Walton, IN
RV-7A (Should be flying, but runway is snowed in.)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "wskimike" <wskimike(at)mchsi.com> |
| Subject: | Proseal on all ribs or not |
My question is; Would it be better for corrosion purposes to use proseal on all
ribs after primer and shoot the rivets wet or would it entrap water and cause
more corrosion? I know you use it for fuel cells and pressurized cabins, but
I was wondering if it would prevent corrosion or aid it.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Mader" <davemader(at)bresnan.net> |
| Subject: | EZ Pilot display |
Am getting ready to purchase an EZ Pilot autopilot and notice from
their website, they offer two different displays (lcd or vfd) Any comments
on which is better would be much appreciated. Thanks
Dave Mader
2nd 6
Sheridan, Wyo
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "cgalley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Proseal on all ribs or not |
You are adding weight for what? Corrosion should not be a problem unless you
land in the ocean.
JBSBA!
Cy Galley - Chair,
AirVenture Emergency Aircraft Repair
A Service Project of Chapter 75
EAA Safety Programs Editor - TC
EAA Sport Pilot
----- Original Message -----
From: "wskimike" <wskimike(at)mchsi.com>
Subject: RV-List: Proseal on all ribs or not
>
> My question is; Would it be better for corrosion purposes to use proseal
on all ribs after primer and shoot the rivets wet or would it entrap water
and cause more corrosion? I know you use it for fuel cells and pressurized
cabins, but I was wondering if it would prevent corrosion or aid it.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: EZ Pilot display |
Dave Mader wrote:
>
> Am getting ready to purchase an EZ Pilot autopilot and notice from
> their website, they offer two different displays (lcd or vfd) Any comments
> on which is better would be much appreciated. Thanks
> Dave Mader
> 2nd 6
> Sheridan, Wyo
Dave, you definitely want the LCD display. I have flown both versions in
my RV-6; the LCD display was developed due to the insistence of several
of us RV drivers. :-)
You are really going to enjoy the EZ-Pilot!
Sam Buchanan (RV-6 with EZ-Pilot)
http://thervjournal.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Proseal on all ribs or not |
I have heard of several people and know of one guy who Pro-sealed each and
every external rivet. I have seen many planes just out of the paint shop
with what looks like a very "thin" paint job. So, I think the main reason
was to fill the gap that sometimes appears between the rivet and the skin
which will allow the paint to flow from rivet to skin. This would also keep
out any "stuff" that might start corrosion.
>
>You are adding weight for what? Corrosion should not be a problem unless you
>land in the ocean.
>
>JBSBA!
>
>Cy Galley - Chair,
>AirVenture Emergency Aircraft Repair
>A Service Project of Chapter 75
>EAA Safety Programs Editor - TC
>EAA Sport Pilot
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "wskimike" <wskimike(at)mchsi.com>
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: Proseal on all ribs or not
>
>
> >
> > My question is; Would it be better for corrosion purposes to use proseal
>on all ribs after primer and shoot the rivets wet or would it entrap water
>and cause more corrosion? I know you use it for fuel cells and pressurized
>cabins, but I was wondering if it would prevent corrosion or aid it.
> >
> >
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Dudley <rhdudley(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | Those Chinese Instruments |
FWIW
There has been a recent thead on this list concerning instruments
manufactured outside the USA. My recent experience might be of interest
to some list followers.
In preparation for FAA inspection of my RV-6A and IFR certification, I
had my altimeter-encoder-transponder combination checked at the local
avionics repair station. I purchased the altimeter from Van's and is
part number;BG-3B. It carries the brand name of Falcon Gauge,Wultrad,
Inc. It is manufactured in China.
The testing procedure takes the altimeter to pressure altitudes from
-1000 feet to 20000 feet at incriments of 500 feet through 2000 feet,
1000 feet through 4000 feet and 2000 feet through 20000 feet and notes
the error at each altitude. The results were zero error through 4000
feet and well within the required tolerances through 20000 feet.
The technician who conducted tests commented that he tests about two
altimeters every day. He said that this altimeter performed at least as
well as the name brands that he tests.
Regards,
Richard Dudley
-6A preparing for final inspection
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Weighty Question |
> Message by: "Konrad L. Werner" klwerner(at)comcast.net :
>Does anyone know what the difference in weight would be between the
>following two options:
>A: 200hp / IO-360 Angle Valve with a Craig Catto F.P.Prop
>B: 180hp / O-360 Parallel Valve with a Hartzell C.S.Propeller
I made a post on the new forum at Van's WWW regarding weight of RV's titled "Weight of Rv's" at http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=172&page=2&pp=10
I broke down the weights of different RV models and engine/prop combs.
A summary of weights for by engine/prop, is below from 115 finished RV's: No consideration
is given to paint, interior or brand of fixed or constant speed prop,
But it will give you an idea what different engines and props have on empty
Wt.
(Note: No RV's with an IO360 200hp with a fixed prop of the group I looked at)
#, Eng/Prop, Min, Max, Avg
32; 320/Fix;.....874; 1106; 1019
28; 360/Fix;.....986; 1170; 1066
09; 320/CS;....1010; 1168; 1084
32; 360/CS;....1026; 1189; 1101
14; IO360/CS;.1103; 1244; 1151
(note: # = number of RV's, O320=150/160hp carb or FI, O360=180hp carb or FI, IO360
0hp)
You can see obvious relationship to weight and prop/engine selection, but you can
also see you can control total weight regardless of eng/prop. However as guessed
a 320/fix RV is the light Wt. and the IO360/CS the heavy weight. No comment
just numbers. By the way Dan's IO360/CS RV-7 Rocks. Thanks for your great
web site by the way.
Cheers G.
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Zilik <zilik(at)excelgeo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Those Chinese Instruments |
On the other hand a local RVer had the same test performed on his Falcon
altimeter. On the way up to 20000 feet the glass in the instrument came
loose (popped inwards) and the altimeter was junk. He now has a nice new
USA made instrument.
Gary
Richard Dudley wrote:
>
> FWIW
>
> There has been a recent thead on this list concerning instruments
> manufactured outside the USA. My recent experience might be of interest
> to some list followers.
>
> In preparation for FAA inspection of my RV-6A and IFR certification, I
> had my altimeter-encoder-transponder combination checked at the local
> avionics repair station. I purchased the altimeter from Van's and is
> part number;BG-3B. It carries the brand name of Falcon Gauge,Wultrad,
> Inc. It is manufactured in China.
>
> The testing procedure takes the altimeter to pressure altitudes from
> 1000 feet through 4000 feet and 2000 feet through 20000 feet and notes
> the error at each altitude. The results were zero error through 4000
> feet and well within the required tolerances through 20000 feet.
>
> The technician who conducted tests commented that he tests about two
> altimeters every day. He said that this altimeter performed at least as
> well as the name brands that he tests.
>
> Regards,
>
> Richard Dudley
> -6A preparing for final inspection
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fiveonepw(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Landing Lights |
In a message dated 2/3/05 12:34:01 AM Central Standard Time,
rv6n6r(at)comcast.net writes:
> I make a fair number of night landings in my -6 and I'm very glad I have
> one
> in each wing. As others have mentioned, it really helps to have one pointing
> up and one down in a tailtragger. BTW these are Duckworks lights.
>
> Also its cool to have a wigwag -- and safer!
>>>>
Ditto on my -6A. As far as aiming, I tried the left one aimed lower- as I
approach the threshold, it's easy to see the stripes/numbers/edge markings on
the left to judge height and alignment. The right one is aimed straight ahead
to look at the touchdown area and on flaring shines straight ahead for 3D
(dogs, deer & dumbasses). I leave the left one on for taxiing. Works fine.
Wig-wag is Galls flasher.
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | sarg314 <sarg314(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | engine bolt torque |
I have looked thru van's manual and a few other engine-hanging guides
but haven't seen anything about the bolt torque to use. These are AN7
bolts (7/16-20) which my chart says calls for 450 - 500 inch-pounds. Is
that right?
--
Tom Sargent, RV-6A, Engine
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | sarg314 <sarg314(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: castle nut - bolt line-up |
G:
Thanks for the feedback. I'm into new territory here, so all the
info I can get helps.
--
Tom S.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Holland" <hollandm(at)pacbell.net> |
If your interested in the Ft Worth/Dallas area outside the class B but still 15
minutes from the malls, check this out:
http://www.bourlandestates.com/
Have a lot plan to build.
Mike Holland
RV9A in the oven
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | 430 initialization?? |
>
> Hey gang, is there any secret to a Garmin 430 "finding"
> itself. My com
> works fine but I am getting no sat. lock. I used a stardard
> BNC connector
> on both ends. Check continuity, everything fine but no
> lock......or luck as
> it may be. Is there any secrets out there or am I not
> getting the proper
> link with the standard BNC.
>
>
> Dana Overall
Dana, you aren't in a hangar, are you?
Alex Peterson
RV6-A 559 hours
Maple Grove, MN
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | 430 initialization?? |
> >
> > Hey gang, is there any secret to a Garmin 430 "finding"
> > itself. My com
> > works fine but I am getting no sat. lock. I used a stardard
> > BNC connector
> > on both ends. Check continuity, everything fine but no
> > lock......or luck as
> > it may be. Is there any secrets out there or am I not
> > getting the proper
> > link with the standard BNC.
> >
> >
> > Dana Overall
Dana, one other possibility - I recall that the manual indicates that it
could take quite some time for the "lock" on first power up. How long have
you let it try?
Alex Peterson
RV6-A 559 hours
Maple Grove, MN
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | 430 initialization?? |
> Alex, the airplane is in my garage but I opened the garage
> door and got the
> antenna within about a foot of the door, pointed towards the
> sky. No luck
> on locking onto a single sat.
>
>
> Dana Overall
Dana, I would guess that the garage is the problem. I don't know the scheme
that the unit uses, but I've seen problems when right next to the hangar,
even though half the sky was visible.
Alex Peterson
RV6-A 559 hours
Maple Grove, MN
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sherri & Paul Richardson" <prichar(at)mail.win.org> |
| Subject: | Six versus Seven Safety |
Hello,
I'm considering buying a flying RV-6A or 7A. I should say "we" because there will
be 4 or 5 buyers/flyers, with varying flying ability/experience.
The aerobatic gross weight of a 6 is 1375 (for more than 3.8 Gs). It is much higher
at 1600 Lbs for a 7. This brings up a few questions:
1. How difficult is it to stay below 135 mph and 3.8 Gs for an RV in various maneuvers?
2. Is the RV-7A a safer airplane for aerobatics?
Thanks,
Paul Richardson
RV-7A Empennage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Bristol <bj034(at)lafn.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Six versus Seven Safety |
Paul,
It would be interesting to know why the 7 has a higher aerobatic gross
than the 6. Any ideas anyone?
It's difficult to say which might be safer, since there has never been a
structural failure on either one. It LOOKS like the 6 spar and center
section would be stronger, but a structural analysis might say differently.
Of course, the two aircraft that you are considering both have the same
troublesome weak point - the nosewheel. 8>)
Dave -6, So Cal
EAA Technical Counselor
Sherri & Paul Richardson wrote:
>
>Hello,
>
>I'm considering buying a flying RV-6A or 7A. I should say "we" because there will
be 4 or 5 buyers/flyers, with varying flying ability/experience.
>
>The aerobatic gross weight of a 6 is 1375 (for more than 3.8 Gs). It is much higher
at 1600 Lbs for a 7. This brings up a few questions:
>
>1. How difficult is it to stay below 135 mph and 3.8 Gs for an RV in various maneuvers?
>
>2. Is the RV-7A a safer airplane for aerobatics?
>
>Thanks,
>Paul Richardson
>RV-7A Empennage
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LARRY ADAMSON" <rvhi03(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Weighty Question |
A C/S prop has a marvelous advantage of controlling airspeed into the pattern,
with it's by design "braking abilities".
Also has the advantage for those one way in and one way out airfields where the
prevailing winds might call for a with the
wind landing. Since I'm in a high altitude area to start with, I also prefer the
climbing abilities of C/S. Having flown both fixed &
C/S RV's, C/S is the only way I'd go. Several of my "fixed pitch" RV acquaintances,
think the same way! :)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | sarg314 <sarg314(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Six versus Seven Safety |
The 7 has a bigger rudder. The 7 has more rudder authority in a spin.
If I could refit my 6A with a 7 rudder, I would, but I'd have to change
the Vert. Stabilizer too.
--
Tom Sargent, RV-6A, engine
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Six versus Seven Safety |
>
>Paul,
>
>It would be interesting to know why the 7 has a higher aerobatic gross
>than the 6. Any ideas anyone?
The RV-7 has a higher aerobatic gross weight than the -6 because that
is the way Van designed it.
The RV-7 is designed to accept a heavier engine than the -6, and it
has more fuel capacity. Couple that with the fact that Van was
envisioning a VFR panel when he designed the -6, and now days many
builders are going full IFR. So, the -7 ends up with higher empty,
aerobatic and gross weights than the -6.
Van could have designed the -6 for a higher aerobatic gross weight,
but that would have meant more metal, which means more weight.
Weight is the enemy of performance, so Van didn't make the aerobatic
gross weight any greater than he deemed necessary.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Weighty Question |
>RV-List message posted by: "DAVID FOORD"
>I CAN BEAT THEM IN THE CRUISE AND PYLON RACING.
>I CAN OUTRUN A 180HP CS RV6.
I would say Tracy Saylors 180hp RV-6 and c/s prop at over 237 mph would give your
160hp/fixed pitch a run for the money. The fastest RV is Dave Anders +250mph
RV-4, with a Hartzell. BTW Dave turns his prop at 2900rpm, which the Hartzell
is rated to.
I disagree; a fixed prop is NOT necessary faster (or slower) in cruise. Fixed pitch props are optimized for one phase of flight, t/o, climb or cruise. Speed depends on other factors, other than just the prop. Your speed advantage over your Buddie's RV says more about the individual airplanes. A fixed prop can be faster than a c/s prop wide open, especially if the fixed prop is being turned at a higher RPM, but this comes at the expense of noise and fuel burn. Your RV may also just be cleaner. To state overall superiority of fixed pitch props in cruise or better top speed over c/s props is not correct. Look at the following chart: http://www.hartzellprop.com/kitplane/index_kitplane.htm
(From link, select: "why you need a certified prop" next to the picture of that
disgusted man Van the Man, and scroll down to the second item, "performance".
Click on the chart to enlarge it.)
>MORE EFFICIENCY, LESS WEIGHT
The above link shows the relationship of C/S and fixed pitch performance (efficiency).
There is little doubt to me c/s props main advantage over fixed props
is their overall efficiency. I think fixed props are great, but more efficient,
no. I say fixed props are less weight with a qualified yes. Fixed vs. c/s weight:
A fixed metal Sensenich (40 lbs) vs. composite Whirlwind (31 lbs), or a
fixed wood prop (15 lbs) vs. Hartzell (55 lbs).
>IN THE CRUISE WITH A WELL SELECTED FP PROP YOU WILL BEAT THE CS PROP >CHAPS AND
YOU SPEND A LOT OF TIME IN THE CRUISE. WITH A 200 HP RV6 WITH FP >PROP YOU ARE
GOING TO BE CLIMBING AT WELL ABOVE 1800 FEET PER MINUTE. >AT 1800 FPM, YOUR
CLIMB IS MAYBE 6 MINUTES TO THE BEST CRUISING ALTITUDE >SO BIG DEAL IF YOU GET
THERE 2 MINUTES QUICKER. DOESN'T MAKE MUCH >DIFFERENCE.
I guess the basic idea that a fixed pitch is not much slower on a trip is your
point, OK. Your example does not talk about taking off from a short runway, high
alt runways or ones with obstacles. As far as (1800 fpm climb), ( 6 min to
cruise) and (2 min behind), I got to say I am missing some critical info in this
example. Vans Aircraft lists a 160hp RV-7 with a c/s prop solo climb at 1900fpm,
and 2550fpm with 200hp. You are giving up 650 fpm at SL. I agree with
the other Gent, 200hp and a fixed-pitch is a waste. A 160hp RV-7 with a c/s prop
can out climb a 200hp RV-7 with a fixed prop, according to your 1800fpm you
quote? Sounds inefficient.
>A CS PROP IS MAINTENANCE WAITING TO DISECT YOUR WALLET.
I agree c/s props are more expensive, but maintenance is not an issue. My C2YK
is reliable year in and out, and it requires no maintenance other than annual
greasing. About 50 cents worth of grease and 10 minutes of effort is required.
The metal fixed prop is about as good as you can get for maintenance. As far
as a Hartzell overhaul, going rate, about 5 years ago was about $1000, if no
extra parts are needed. Most bad parts are due to disuse and corrosion, not wear.
For my RV-7 project I paid $2,500 for an overhauled Hartzell outright, made
from spare parts at local prop shop, and $400 for an overhauled Woodward governor
outright, from another large established shop selling inventory in trade-a-plane.
So for 3 grand I have a c/s prop. BTW, A fixed wood prop needs constant
re-torque of bolts and worry of erosion in rain.
>MY RV IS THE SWEETEST THING TO FLY. MY MATES WITH CS PROPS HAVE >HEAVIER NOSES
AND ARE NOT SUCH A DELIGHT TO FLY, BECAUSE OF >THE NOSE HEAVINESS.
I agree a lighter RV, good CG has better a feel. It is still possible to have a
light RV with a c/s prop, but it is harder. My empty wt. survey clearly shows
RVs with fixed props tend to be lighter by at least 36 lbs. However there are
some real porky fixed pitch RVs and very light c/s RVs out there. For my RV-7,
I am keeping the panel, upholstery and paint light to compensate. I would love
to get a composite lightweight c/s prop and save 20 lbs, but is does not meet
my cheap-ness criteria. If a $8,000 prop were my only choice for a c/s prop,
I would not hesitate to use a fixed pitched prop.
>THERE ARE PRO's AND CON's.
Good points, pros and cons, no real clear winner, you have to look at your wallet,
overall performance, initial cost, manufacture support, service and parts
availability and weight to determine what's better for you. For me, I want efficient
cruise using normal rpms (better fuel burn), better climb and fast top
speed, so it was a no brainier, the Hartzell is a good choice for me. If I want
to race I will tweak my Gov to 2800 rpm. Dave, when I get it flying, lets have
a race. PS, word has it Reno may open a Bronze class for the sport planes!
So you have a chance without running against the big six bangers.
Cheers G (RV-4, RV-7 project)
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fiveonepw(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Six versus Seven Safety |
In a message dated 02/05/2005 1:31:21 PM Central Standard Time,
sarg314(at)comcast.net writes:
The 7 has a bigger rudder. The 7 has more rudder authority in a spin.
If I could refit my 6A with a 7 rudder, I would, but I'd have to change
the Vert. Stabilizer too.
>>>
FWIW, While getting some time in the factory -9 I asked a
well-known-and-respected Van's transition training pilot about updating from the
-6 to the -7
style before finishing my plane, and he replied that in his opinion, the original
tail is perfectly suited to the -6 and wouldn't recommend it- nothing wrong
with it, just not necessary. The primary reason for the change was that the -8
needed the extra size and for parts commonality, not any shortcoming of the
original design. Something else I'm curious about is the additional weight
that far out on the tail and what effect on CG this has for lighter engine/prop
combos- my O-320/FP composite prop is a bit tail-heavy as it is. (I should say
nose-light, shouldn't I?) Not sure what the actual weight difference is
(anybody?) but it sure is on a loooooong arm out there...
Mark Phillips -6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob" <rpgross(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Solid state Trim, Speedbrake and Flap relays and controllers |
etc...
I hate to use this list to spam but the thread appears so frequently I
thought I'd throw this out. When I built my F1, the need for trim control
was obvious so I developed a trim control system using an LMD18200T H-bridge
driver chip. Problem is it only handles 3 amps. Fine for Vans type A/C and
all Ray Allen servos, but
inadequate for Lancairs, Glasairs, Velocities etc.
Along the way I been producing and selling an improved version of the
original Trim Control Module (TCM). Details are on my website link below.
Basically, the TCM does many cool tricks including: polling two sets of
sticks for trim motor commands, prioritizing them; variable speed mode for
fast aircraft, runaway trim protection, and it does away with mechanical,
failure prone relays. All this $99 and available now
I've been slowly developing a high powered version that will easily handle
10 amps. In fact with heat sinking, it will handle a blistering 50 amps.
This module, when programmed with variations of processor firmware, will
serve as either:
1. High power trim control module.
2. Intelligent flap control module.
3. Speedbrake control module
4. Boost pump control module
5. and even a Landing gear control module.
It's a lot of stuff, but all of it will share the same proven circuit board
and MOSFET drive system. The common board design will accept an optional
pitot/static pressure transducer which, if opted for, will give true
variable speed trim motor operation based on IAS. It will also optionally
give the Flap Control Module "overspeed load relief" capability which
retracts the flaps for you (if you forget on a Go-Around). Think of this as
a life saver.
The new CPU also has a multi-channel 10 bit A/D converter so the module
can read flap position, speedbrake position, flap control lever position,
speed control lever position, airspeed, fuel pressure (for auto boost pump
operation) and on and on.
Currently the board is being tested. All is going well. I expect the first
versions of the high power TCM to available within 2 months. Followed by
the Speedbrake module, the boost pump module, Flap Control module and then
the Landing gear control module.
Basic operation is like this. Please send me ideas and suggestions to
operating modes now as this is the time to be heard.
1. TCM, same operation as current TCM only optional pitot/static
users
get true variable speed trim.
2, Flap Control Module. Either a selector lever positions the flaps or
three buttons marked UP,MID,FULL do. This will also accommodate Infinity
grips with the two position up/down switch. Holding the button for more that
one second causes flaps to drive full to the limit selected. Pitot/Static
versions always have load relief watching them. Flaps won't extend at
excessively high speeds, and will auto-retract at excessively high speeds.
Aircraft using a "flap selector lever" must install a feedback device on the
flap system to report flap position to the FCM. The flaps may be positioned
in
any position desired by moving the lever.
3.Speedbrake Control Module. Moving a lever commands the speed brake to move
the appropriate amount. An optional throttle switch will cause a "SPPEDBRAKE
WARNING" light to illuminate if the speedbrake are extended with the
throttle opened beyond a point determined by the builder. Feedback sensor
must be installed to speedbrake to report position back to SCM.
4. Boost Pump Control Module: Press the switch...pump on-light on,
press
again.pump off-light off. Low fuel pressure turns pump on-light on. After
fifteen minute of pump operation, switch LED begins to flash reminding pilot
to do something.
Keep building and keep dreaming, it's worth the wait!
Warmest Regards,
Bob Gross
For the latest F1 Rocket/Synthetic Vision progress, click here...
www.F1-RocketBoy.com <http://www.f1-rocketboy.com/>
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tedd McHenry <tedd(at)vansairforce.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Six versus Seven Safety |
>
> The 7 has a bigger rudder. The 7 has more rudder authority in a spin.
It's not quite that clear cut. SB02-6-1 says, "Testing the RV-7 (N137RV)
reconfigured with an RV-9/9A rudder showed improved spin recovery qualities.
With this larger rudder, RV-7 spin recovery qualities are equal to or better
than those of the standard RV-6/6A, which have been service proven through
fleet experience."
In other words, the larger rudder was added to the -7 to bring it up to the
standard of the -6.
Tedd McHenry
Surrey, BC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Bristol <bj034(at)lafn.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Six versus Seven Safety |
Thanks for the reply Kevin. I understand that it's because it was
designed that way, but what I was wondering is how/where that extra
strength was designed in.
Dave
Kevin Horton wrote:
>
>
>>It would be interesting to know why the 7 has a higher aerobatic gross
>>than the 6. Any ideas anyone?
>>
>>
>
>The RV-7 has a higher aerobatic gross weight than the -6 because that
>is the way Van designed it.
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | RV6-a upper gear leg intersection Fairings attachment |
My RV6-A is on the wheels in my garage. Bob's http://www.fairings-etc.com
wheel pant intersection fairings are fitted and laminated onto the Van's
wheel pants. Bob's parts dropped in place and it took me quite a lot of
effort to fit, laminate and finish to match the quality of his
craftsmanship. Thanks Bob!
Now I am looking for some ideas and hopefully some pictures as to attachment
of the upper leg intersection fairing to the fuselage.
I am looking for suggestions re- attachment points, hardware suggestions:
Rivnuts Platenuts, Tinnermans, Springs and mounting point locations etc.
I have been mulling this over for a while and have yet to settle them in
place.
If you have pictures I'd sure like to see them.
Thanks in advance,
Jim in Kelowna
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John D. Heath" <Alto_Q(at)direcway.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Confused About Torque Specifications |
No body seems to want to touch this so I'll give it what amounts to my 2
cents worth.
When you see a chart like is in Chapter 7 of AC 43.13-1B it is for
standard Aircraft Hardware. The torque indicated in these charts is
calculated to pre-stress the standard aircraft bolt to 40,000 psi for a bolt
used in tension and 24,000 psi for a bolt in a shear application. "Clamping
Force" is arrived at by the size and/or quantity fasteners used in the
application.
Other requirements of the standard are, AN310 nuts used in tension, AN320
nuts used in shear, and all standard Aircraft bolts are Cadmium plated. One
thing that is not made as clear as it could be is what constitutes the face
bearing area. The head of the bolt and the nut should both bear on a
standard AN960 Washer which is also cadmium plated. This Cadmium plating
provides the proper and uniform lubricant required to arrive at the
pre-stress requirement consistently.
On close examination of most washers you can see that one side is almost
perfectly flat and the other side is some what rounded over at the inside
and outside diameters from the manufacturing process. The flat side goes
toward the head of the bolt or the nut to provide the proper bearing area,
and the rounded side goes toward whatever is being bolted together so as not
to make a grove or nick that would be a stress riser.
Special applications torque values are set so as to arrive at the
pre-stress values required for the application and special fastener being
used. As in the case of a rod bolt, which is considerably stronger than a
standard bolt of the same size, it is not plated, the threads are most times
oiled, the nut is longer including more threads and the threads are somewhat
differently shaped. All this leads to a different torque value. The measured
torque values of lock nuts is also considered in torque values.
These torque values and how they are applied are critical. Someone one on
the list recently stated that "~ it might be time to come up with a new AC
43.13-1B for BOAM use". That publication now applies to Heavy Aircraft only
as FAA states on their web site that puts the responsibility for Standards
for Light Aircraft in the lap of the manufacturer.
I hope I haven't clouded the issues more than what were. I only post on
the list when I think safety is at risk.
John D. Heath
Point Blank, TX
~ 75 miles N. of Houston
----- Original Message -----
From: <Hopperdhh(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: Confused About Torque Specifications
>
> Listers,
>
> I have to wonder how critical these bolt torque specifications really
> are.
> The latter spec is not for connecting rods. Those call for 400 - 475
> in-lb
> for 3/8 - 24 threads. These must be better steel, so don't go this tight
> with standard AN bolts!
>
> Dan Hopper
> Walton, IN
> RV-7A (Should be flying, but runway is snowed in.)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | sarg314 <sarg314(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | RV-6A nose gear top bolt |
There is an AN5-20 bolt that pins the top of the nose gear to the engine
mount. I had previously made a hole in the firewall (as per plans) so
allow access for a socket wrench to tighten this bolt. I also made a
plate to cover the hole. Installing the nose gear for real tonight (I
hang the engine tomorrow) I discovered that the AN5-20 bolt actually
interferes with the firewall - it's a bit too long. I can't screw my
cover plate over the hole when the bolt is in place.
Is this typical?
Only solution I can think of is to mount a 1/16" or 1/8" plate with a
hole in it on the cabin side of the firewall to effectively move the
cabin side of the firewall aft to allow room for the bolt.
--
Tom Sargent, RV-6A, engine.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Six versus Seven Safety |
>
>
>It would be interesting to know why the 7 has a higher aerobatic gross
>than the 6. Any ideas anyone?
>
>
There was some discussion about this when the 7 first hit the shelves.
IIRC part of the equation was that the 1375 weight of the -6 was a very
conservative number which had a large "fudge factor" for differences in
constsruction of different planes. With the -7 and the matched hole
kits, it was determined that the fudge factor did not have to be as
large, and this was one of the factors in the higher aerobatic gross
weight of the -7.
Jeff Point
RV-6 "Classic"
Milwaukee WI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6A nose gear top bolt |
In a message dated 2/5/05 11:02:38 P.M. US Eastern Standard Time,
sarg314(at)comcast.net writes:
--> RV-List message posted by: sarg314
There is an AN5-20 bolt that pins the top of the nose gear to the engine
mount. I had previously made a hole in the firewall (as per plans) so
allow access for a socket wrench to tighten this bolt. I also made a
plate to cover the hole. Installing the nose gear for real tonight (I
hang the engine tomorrow) I discovered that the AN5-20 bolt actually
interferes with the firewall - it's a bit too long. I can't screw my
cover plate over the hole when the bolt is in place.
Is this typical?
Tom Sargent, RV-6A, engine.
Tom,
I had the same problem with my 7A. I put the bolt in upside down and put
the nut on the top side. I know that people may say that is wrong, but faced
with the options, that seemed to be a viable solution.
Dan Hopper
Walton, IN
RV-7A N766DH
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | RV-6A nose gear top bolt |
>
>
> There is an AN5-20 bolt that pins the top of the nose gear to
> the engine
> mount. I had previously made a hole in the firewall (as per
> plans) so
> allow access for a socket wrench to tighten this bolt. I also made a
> plate to cover the hole. Installing the nose gear for real
> tonight (I
> hang the engine tomorrow) I discovered that the AN5-20 bolt actually
> interferes with the firewall - it's a bit too long. I can't screw my
> cover plate over the hole when the bolt is in place.
>
> Is this typical?
>
> Only solution I can think of is to mount a 1/16" or 1/8" plate with a
> hole in it on the cabin side of the firewall to effectively move the
> cabin side of the firewall aft to allow room for the bolt.
> --
> Tom Sargent, RV-6A, engine.
Tom, is there a reason that you cannot simply put some washers under the
bolt head? This works for me and I don't need any dent or otherwise in the
firewall. The washer and nut on the bottom side need to be started onto the
bolt, with the bolt only partially in, to start things.
Alex Peterson
RV6-A 569 hours
Maple Grove, MN
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy" <rer51(at)lincsat.com> |
I have a -9A. I would like to put it on floats. Czech says it should have T/D
gear config. Other than engine mount, skin cutouts and tail wheel, are there
any additional significant changes. Randy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | sarg314 <sarg314(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6A nose gear top bolt |
Alex:
Well, yes, there is a reason I can't fix it with washers. The
AN5-20A is the right size bolt for this, that is, the grip of the bolt
is just the right length. It I put washers under the head, some of the
weight will be born on the threaded part of the bolt which is not a good
practice. Shortening the threaded end of the bolt may be an option,
though. Also, installing the bolt upside down reduces the interference,
but does not completely eliminate it.
Alex Peterson wrote:
>
>
>
>>
>>There is an AN5-20 bolt that pins the top of the nose gear to
>>the engine
>>
>>
>>I discovered that the AN5-20 bolt actually
>>interferes with the firewall - it's a bit too long. I can't screw my
>>cover plate over the hole when the bolt is in place.
>>--
>>Tom Sargent, RV-6A, engine.
>>
>>
>
>Tom, is there a reason that you cannot simply put some washers under the
>bolt head? This works for me and I don't need any dent or otherwise in the
>firewall. The washer and nut on the bottom side need to be started onto the
>bolt, with the bolt only partially in, to start things.
>
>Alex Peterson
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Crosley" <rcrosley(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Proseal on all ribs or not |
The bottom line question is "Do you want to Fly or Build". There are a lot of
things you can do that won't hurt anything but also don't help much either. Buildings
is fun but flying is really the point. Go ahead and start prosealing
all the rivets. My bet is you'll get tired of that real quick. If the reason
is to fill the rivet circles so the paint flows, squeegee in some primer with
a credit card prior to spray priming. If you are really worried about corrosion
dip the rivets in primer before you rivet. You'll get tired of doing that
too, but it won't be as big a mess. I guess what I am saying is the building
always seems to drag out longer than you think it should anyway, if it were
me.....I won't add to it that much. There is a reason folks say "Keep pounding
those Rivets" There really are a lot of them and by the time you finish you're
ready to.
Have fun......
Rich Crosley
RV-8, N948RC, Flying real soon.
Palmdale, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6-a upper gear leg intersection Fairings attachment |
I used Bob's fairings on my 6a and just drilled them into the cockpit and
installed nutplates. No problem. Now finishing it.........
Shemp/Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, N915JD
160 hours
Chicago/Louisville
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net>
Subject: RV-List: RV6-a upper gear leg intersection Fairings attachment
>
> My RV6-A is on the wheels in my garage. Bob's http://www.fairings-etc.com
> wheel pant intersection fairings are fitted and laminated onto the Van's
> wheel pants. Bob's parts dropped in place and it took me quite a lot of
> effort to fit, laminate and finish to match the quality of his
> craftsmanship. Thanks Bob!
>
> Now I am looking for some ideas and hopefully some pictures as to
> attachment
> of the upper leg intersection fairing to the fuselage.
> I am looking for suggestions re- attachment points, hardware suggestions:
> Rivnuts Platenuts, Tinnermans, Springs and mounting point locations etc.
> I have been mulling this over for a while and have yet to settle them in
> place.
>
> If you have pictures I'd sure like to see them.
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Jim in Kelowna
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | RV-6A nose gear top bolt |
Tom, ours must be a little different. I have one or two thick washers under
the head (on the top), and I still have no threads in the mount. The bolt,
however, can only barely be peeking through when I start the nut on the
bottom.
Alex
>
> Alex:
> Well, yes, there is a reason I can't fix it with washers. The
> AN5-20A is the right size bolt for this, that is, the grip of
> the bolt
> is just the right length. It I put washers under the head,
> some of the
> weight will be born on the threaded part of the bolt which is
> not a good
> practice. Shortening the threaded end of the bolt may be an option,
> though. Also, installing the bolt upside down reduces the
> interference,
> but does not completely eliminate it.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobby Hester <bhester(at)hopkinsville.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6A nose gear top bolt |
sarg314 wrote:
>
> Alex:
> Well, yes, there is a reason I can't fix it with washers. The
> AN5-20A is the right size bolt for this, that is, the grip of the bolt
> is just the right length. It I put washers under the head, some of the
> weight will be born on the threaded part of the bolt which is not a good
> practice. Shortening the threaded end of the bolt may be an option,
> though. Also, installing the bolt upside down reduces the interference,
> but does not completely eliminate it.
>
>
I beleive it shows this bolt installed upside down on one of the
drawings, don't have them here. That is how mine is installed. (RV7A) If
you install it upside down and file the edge of the bolt head were it
interfers, would that not work? On the RV7 plans they show a round plug
snap in cover for this hole. I think you might be able to use one of
those installed from the inside to give you the extra room you need.
Proseal over the engine side.
--
Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
RV7A Slowbuild wings-QB Fuse :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Grimmonpre" <jerry(at)mc.net> |
| Subject: | RV-6A nose gear top bolt |
Denis or anyone with the experience ...
Has there ever been any consideration, or talk, by any builder or group, to
make the nose gear top bolt a tapered bolt fastened with a fiberlock nut or
all metal lock nut? What is your opinion of such an approach to staking the
top of the nose gear?
It would seem that if a nose gear top bolt and the staking hole started to
enlarge and loosen, drilling a tapered hole would be a really good way to
tighten things up nicely. I ran across this problem when I witnessed an
RV6A, in for a fix for this very problem. The solution carried out was to
redrill for a larger bolt. In hind sight, I wondered if, maybe, a tapered
bolt would solve this problem for many more hours.
Are there opinions, or learned experiences on this one, anyone?
Jerry Grimmonpre
7A
> I have been around long enough to live through a service bulletin which
> encouraged all to switch to an improved nose leg (strut). During that
> process it became obvious that Van's supplier Harmon, Lange is an
> engineering genius who produces parts to close tolerances. Our nose
> leg may be the best tested piece of equipment on the plane. So I
> believe in treating it right.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan Krueger <pndkrueg(at)mchsi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Nose Gear Bolt Torque... |
>
>
> Anyone have the nose gear bolt (one holding the tire on) torque
> specs handy?
>
> 7-10 ft lbs
Dan Krueger
RV6A Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Galati <rick6a(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | RE: RV-6A nose gear top bolt |
I guess everybody can have a different situation to deal with. In mine, when the
AN5-20A bolt was inserted, the grip length was exactly right but the threads
on the bottom side of the bolt touched the firewall, displacing it slightly.
Rather than drill a big hole in the stainless just to be covered with a cap as
called out in the plans, I merely shaved a little material off the threads of
the bolt at an angle so that when the bolt was reinserted, it just barely clears
the firewall. With a limited area MS21042 self-locking nut in place, ample
thread protrusion remains.
Rick Galati RV-6A finished "not yet flying"
> Alex:
> Well, yes, there is a reason I can't fix it with washers. The
> AN5-20A is the right size bolt for this, that is, the grip of
> the bolt > is just the right length. It I put washers under the head,
> some of the > weight will be born on the threaded part of the bolt which is
> not a good > practice. Shortening the threaded end of the bolt may be an option,
> though. Also, installing the bolt upside down reduces the
> interference, > but does not completely eliminate it.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | RV-6A nose gear top bolt |
>
> Denis or anyone with the experience ...
> Has there ever been any consideration, or talk, by any
> builder or group, to
> make the nose gear top bolt a tapered bolt fastened with a
> fiberlock nut or
> all metal lock nut? What is your opinion of such an approach
> to staking the
> top of the nose gear?
>
> It would seem that if a nose gear top bolt and the staking
> hole started to
> enlarge and loosen, drilling a tapered hole would be a really
> good way to
> tighten things up nicely. I ran across this problem when I
> witnessed an
> RV6A, in for a fix for this very problem. The solution
> carried out was to
> redrill for a larger bolt. In hind sight, I wondered if,
> maybe, a tapered
> bolt would solve this problem for many more hours.
> Are there opinions, or learned experiences on this one,
> anyone? Jerry Grimmonpre 7A
Jerry, this is a very good question. I wrote on this list several years ago
about the nose gear mounting bolt. Now, with further operational experience,
I'll add a little more.
I originally mounted it exactly as the plans called for, including using the
standard AN bolt. I did not like the slop in the system, however. If I
pushed left and right on the nose of the plane, I could hear the nose gear
clicking back and forth, beating on both the bolt and mount. I replaced it
with a close tolerance AN bolt, and greatly reduced the slop. But, still it
was there. Anyway, after about 400 hours, during an annual, I decided to
remove the nose gear for cleaning and inspection. Removing that bolt was
absolutely challenging, and probably took me an hour. The bolt had been
beat up by the nose gear such that it was really tough to remove. I plan to
replace the bolt every 200 hours now. I dressed the edges of the hole in
the gear, which were quite sharp as supplied, and that may help.
What the design really needs, IMNSHO, is for the mount to be slotted. The
bolt should addionally clamp the mount to the gear, allowing no movement at
that location. I suspect that due to tolerances, many planes have this
situation already. Mine not. I sacrificed a bolt just to see if I could
tighten it enough to prevent motion, and I couldn't.
What say others?
Alex Peterson
RV6-A 569 hours
Maple Grove, MN
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "cgalley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6A nose gear top bolt |
Would the "red" Loctite be a good fix? It is supposed to make a "press fit"
with up to 0.010 clearances.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List: RV-6A nose gear top bolt
>
>
> >
> > Denis or anyone with the experience ...
> > Has there ever been any consideration, or talk, by any
> > builder or group, to
> > make the nose gear top bolt a tapered bolt fastened with a
> > fiberlock nut or
> > all metal lock nut? What is your opinion of such an approach
> > to staking the
> > top of the nose gear?
> >
> > It would seem that if a nose gear top bolt and the staking
> > hole started to
> > enlarge and loosen, drilling a tapered hole would be a really
> > good way to
> > tighten things up nicely. I ran across this problem when I
> > witnessed an
> > RV6A, in for a fix for this very problem. The solution
> > carried out was to
> > redrill for a larger bolt. In hind sight, I wondered if,
> > maybe, a tapered
> > bolt would solve this problem for many more hours.
> > Are there opinions, or learned experiences on this one,
> > anyone? Jerry Grimmonpre 7A
>
> Jerry, this is a very good question. I wrote on this list several years
ago
> about the nose gear mounting bolt. Now, with further operational
experience,
> I'll add a little more.
>
> I originally mounted it exactly as the plans called for, including using
the
> standard AN bolt. I did not like the slop in the system, however. If I
> pushed left and right on the nose of the plane, I could hear the nose gear
> clicking back and forth, beating on both the bolt and mount. I replaced
it
> with a close tolerance AN bolt, and greatly reduced the slop. But, still
it
> was there. Anyway, after about 400 hours, during an annual, I decided to
> remove the nose gear for cleaning and inspection. Removing that bolt was
> absolutely challenging, and probably took me an hour. The bolt had been
> beat up by the nose gear such that it was really tough to remove. I plan
to
> replace the bolt every 200 hours now. I dressed the edges of the hole in
> the gear, which were quite sharp as supplied, and that may help.
>
> What the design really needs, IMNSHO, is for the mount to be slotted. The
> bolt should addionally clamp the mount to the gear, allowing no movement
at
> that location. I suspect that due to tolerances, many planes have this
> situation already. Mine not. I sacrificed a bolt just to see if I could
> tighten it enough to prevent motion, and I couldn't.
>
> What say others?
>
> Alex Peterson
> RV6-A 569 hours
> Maple Grove, MN
>
> http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | sarg314 <sarg314(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | engine hanging problem |
I tried hanging the engine (IO-360-B2B) on my 6A and was surprised to
find that normal sockets won't fit on the bolt head or nut. I find
interference on each end of the bolt. The torque wrench with a 5/8
socket hits the engine mount tube and won't go over the bolt head. A
socket can't be manuvered onto the nut end beacuse of obstructions on
the engine - well the top of the engine anyway. (The lower bolts look
like they might have more clearance. ) The nut is recessed into the
engine enough that it is nearly impossible to get an open end wrench on
it, never mind a socket. I got the first bolt screwed on part way
using a closed end wrench on the bolt head.
It *might* be possible if I cut the socket about 1/4" shorter, but in
all I have read about hanging an engine, I haven't heard any mention of
these problems. Is this normal? How do I get my Sears toque wrench to
work here?
--
Tom Sargent, RV-6A, engine
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Don Mack" <don(at)dmack.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 327/Dynon question |
That's correct. The dynon reports pressure alt. The actual alt is calculated
by the FAA computers when being display on their screens.
>
> Hi Dana;
> I should probably leave this to the more knowledgeable, but....
> I believe that the Dynon (or any encoder) reports altitude to the X-ponder
> uncompensated for barometric pressure and the x-ponder in turn reports
> this
> uncompensated altitude. This ensures that ATC sees consistent altitudes
> from
> all aircraft in the area, regardless of any individual aircraft's
> altimeter
> setting. ATC applies the current correction setting themselves.
>
> At least that is what I believe.... maybe someone can confirm this?
>
> Todd Bartrim
>
> RV9Endurance
> OK, got the 430 "problem" fixed, my bad..............I'll leave it at
> that:-)
>
> My Dynon is wired into my 327 sending gray code. No matter what baro
> setting I use on the Dynon, the 327 still shows 600' pressure alt. Any
> clues as to why this is showing 600'?
>
> When I turn off the Dynon, the pressure alt display on the 327 goes blank
> so
> I know it is receiving something.
>
>
> Dana Overall
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6A nose gear top bolt |
In a message dated 2/6/05 11:20:14 A.M. US Eastern Standard Time,
bhester(at)hopkinsville.net writes:
I beleive it shows this bolt installed upside down on one of the
drawings, don't have them here. That is how mine is installed. (RV7A) If
you install it upside down and file the edge of the bolt head were it
interfers, would that not work? On the RV7 plans they show a round plug
snap in cover for this hole. I think you might be able to use one of
those installed from the inside to give you the extra room you need.
Proseal over the engine side.
Tom,
This is exactly what I ended up doing. Bolt upside down and plug inserted
from inside the plane. Not pretty, but who's gonna look?
Also, please see my earlier post (attached below) for an undersize drill for
getting a tight fit on these gear leg bolts.
Regards,
Dan Hopper
Walton, IN
RV-7A (Flying for the first time since before Christmas -- In fact I had
been getting a little depressed lately, but I feel like a new man now!!! The
-7A is a wonderful ship. You should have seen those 200 horses digging it out
of that half-muddy/half-snow-covered field!)
Listers,
My thought is that if the hole is close to begin with, then it is not as
likely to wallow out. You should have to almost drive the bolt in to the gear
leg and bracket (with a little LPS-3 on it).
I measured the diameter of the kit supplied bolts with a micrometer, then
looked through all my assortment of bits hoping to find one that was about .002
inch under 5/16 inch for a good match.
I found almost all of my 5/16 high speed steel bits were very close to the
same size. However, I discovered, almost by accident, that all of the drill
bits were tapered -- getting progressively smaller as you went away from the
cutting end of the bit. I was able to get the bit about .002 inch undersized
by cutting it in two at about half of its original length with a grinder.
You can then re-sharpen the bit and it will still be long enough to drill
through the gear leg and mount. You can re-sharpen hss bits much more
successfully than the titanium bits that we get from Avery.
Of course, you should have already drilled the hole about 19/64 inch (1/64
under 5/16) before you drill this finish hole. This is a poor man's
substitute for a reamer, I guess. Reamers are hard to come by out here in the
sticks!
It worked great for me. YMMV.
Dan Hopper
Walton, IN
RV-7A
N766DH (Flying since last July)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | RV-6A nose gear top bolt |
>
> Check this out, http://tds.loctite.com/tds5/docs/660-EN.pdf .
> I think this
> should be considered even for new assembly.
> The close tolerance bolt is definitely an upgrade.
John and Cy,
Interesting idea, but the statement (in the above link) about disassembly
requiring heating the part to 250C is a little worrisome... that is 482F.
Alex Peterson
RV6-A 569 hours
Maple Grove, MN
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV6-a upper gear leg intersection Fairings attachment |
In a message dated 2/5/05 5:09:42 PM Pacific Standard Time, jjewell(at)telus.net
writes:
<< Now I am looking for some ideas and hopefully some pictures as to
attachment
of the upper leg intersection fairing to the fuselage. >>
Jim: I just finished installing the upper leg intersection fairings from
//fairings etc. I decided to use #6 flush screws and nut plates. I laminated
two strips of glass about 1 inch wide around the top of Bob's fairings and
blended it with micro to provide additional thickness for the countersunk screw
heads/tinnerman washers. I used three screws into the bottom cowl and two into
the fuselage bottom skin. In the cowl there is one at the leading edge of
the fairing and one on each side about 1 1/4 inch from the aft edge of the cowl.
In the bottom skin there is one screw just forward of the split line in the
fairing and one at the bottom aft end. I also installed a nutplate in the
fairing where Bob just provides for a sheet metal screw to hold the split line
together. The fairing is very solid and the installation looks good. I did
have to build up the inside of the fairing at the leading edge with micro to get
a snug fit to my bottom cowl but I suspect that will vary from plane to plane.
Sorry, no pics, but I hope this helps.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, flying!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | sarg314 <sarg314(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: engine hanging problem |
I solved most of my problems. I got a closed end wrench and ground a
bit of it away to get it to fit on the nuts. Then I remembered I had
some crow-foot wrenches and used one of those on the torque wrench (with
appropriate adjustment to torque setting).
Question: How much torque should I add for the fact that I'm torquing
the bolt head instaed of the nut? I'm guessing a couple foot-pounds. I
didn't try to measure it.
The engine is on now, except that 3 of the 4 bolts are badly lined up
for cotter pin insertion. Torquing up to the max doesn't seem to move it
much. If they were lined up it will be very hard to get the cotter pin
safetied properly - it's a tight spot. I guess I'll deal with that
tomorrow.
sarg314 wrote:
>
>I tried hanging the engine (IO-360-B2B) on my 6A and was surprised to
>find that normal sockets won't fit on the bolt head or nut. I find
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Grimmonpre" <jerry(at)mc.net> |
| Subject: | Fw: [LML] Brain Lock |
For the RV List with posting permission from the author ... Brent Regan, creator
of Chelton glass system.
Jerry Grimmonpre
----- Original Message -----
From: Brent Regan
Subject: [LML] Brain Lock
As is the case with many physiological functions being autonomic (circulatory,
digestive, metabolism and most of respiratory), a majority of cognitive functions
are also "automatic" and are performed outside the control of the conscious
mind. In many cases this background processing is tasked with integrating various
sensory inputs into a comprehensive sense of reality. Providing unnatural
or unexpected inputs can confuse these processes. As pilots, a common experience
with this phenomenon is the spatial disorientation experienced during unusual
attitude training. The disorientation is the product of conflicting sensory
inputs from the inner ear (balance), propriosensic (seat of the pants) and
vision (instruments). Vision usually dominates, and would in this case, except
that the steam gauges and needles require additional processing that degrades
the "believability" of the visual information so the incorrect signals dominate.
Fast forward to the modern age of high fidelity glass. The synthetic images displayed
require less processing and are therefore more believable to the autonomic
cognitive systems. It is easy and natural to for your brain to "lock" onto
the image as if it were reality and ignore conflicting information. This makes
for safer IFR flight as it requires less brain processing bandwidth, leaving
more for other flight tasks (communicating, navigating, monitoring, etc.)
The problem occurs when the Glass is wrong. Even when the image on the screen
does NOT represent reality then there is still an overwhelming visual input. Imagine
that you were flying on instruments in VFR conditions. Your scan was on
the gauges but your peripheral vision allowed you to see outside. Now imagine
what would happen if the view outside started to tumble while the gauges and
your butt are telling you that you are still in level flight. Since the outside
view is more compelling, the natural reaction would be to ignore the needles
and attempt to follow the compelling visual picture. Now imagine the same scenario
except that you are in IFR conditions and "compelling" visual image is
from your high fidelity glass cockpit.
I can tell you from personal experience (development flight tests) that when the
glass starts to roll, you really want to roll with it and even when you have
identified the that there is a problem and are using the standby gauges the
"wrong" picture in your peripheral vision continues to be a distraction. My strong
advice is that if the glass is in doubt, turn it off (power, dimming or cover
it) and go to your standby gauges.
I was motivated to write this after reading the following account:
http://www.ntsb.gov/ntsb/brief.asp?ev_id20050131X00119&key1
There is no way to determine if a glass failure induced this accident and I would
not want to speculate as to the cause. I was reminded by this account of the
disorientation I experienced when the power supply in a new AHRS I was testing
went TU and induced a 30 degree per second roll on the display. Reverting the
PFD to Moving Map immediately "fixed" my disorientation as I was then able
to use the standby attitude indicator without the conflicting rolling image on
the PFD. It was NOT enough to just "know" the glass was wrong and ignore it
as my autonomic brain wanted to lock onto the more compelling image.
If you have incorrect information displayed, cover it or remove it from view. Ignoring
it doesn't work.
Regards
Brent Regan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Carlrayw(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | For Sale: Eggenfellner Engine Package |
I have one of the earlier 2002 engine packages which I would like to sell. I
bought it for an rv9 but I know it will fit some other rvs.
engine package
heater package
EIS monitor no fuel sensors
fuel valve
Oeitiker kit
1 metal tank and 2 gallons of antifreeze
engine manual
Will sell for $15,500.00 about what I have invested with no markup
email me if interested at _carlrayw(at)aol.com_ (mailto:carlrayw(at)aol.com)
It has been stored in a heated garage and is still in the crate. I have used
a wrench to turn it over occasionally so I know it is still ok. Was going to
start it up but decided it would be better not to unless I don't sell it,
then I will have to run it occasionally till I sell it.
Reason for selling is that I don't think I will get to finish and fly my kit
for a lot more years if ever so rather than have it sit for much longer I
would like to see someone get use of it. A hard decision to make but something
I
must do. I would like to have someone pick it up or I could deliver it for a
shipping charge. I live in Michigan at Traverse City.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Martin Hone" <mctrader(at)bigpond.net.au> |
| Subject: | Starter Motor / Alternator Brace |
Hi guys,
I was reading the Wings Forum about the refurbishing of an RV4, and the
author mentioned about the engine not having a brace between the alternator
and the starter motor. This is news to me, and I am wondering if others are
using such a devise to support the alternator, presumabley to prevent
breaking the support arm ?
If so, what material is suggested and what are the mounting points ?
Cheers
Martin
RV6 - 100 hrs
_____
<http://promos.hotbar.com/promos/promodll.dll?RunPromo&El&SG&RAND72504&pa
rtnerfastutility> Block Spam Emails - Click here!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | luckymacy(at)comcast.net (lucky) |
| Subject: | XM Weather & the Fog Crash |
Does the XM weather system have a fog or haze symbol? In this case, how could
it have made a difference? I know this was probably avoidable even w/o looking
up the particulars of this flight using existing ground info & getting a preflight
WX brief. But once airborne and you need updated final destination or
fuel stop fog conditions, can XM weather in the cockpit help?
Does the XM weather system have a fog or hazesymbol? In this case, how could it
have made a difference? I know this was probablyavoidable even w/o looking up
the particulars of this flight using existing ground info getting a preflight
WX brief. But once airborne and you need updated final destination orfuel stopfog
conditions, canXM weather in the cockpit help?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
| Subject: | Re: XM Weather & the Fog Crash |
Lucky,
Your post refers to some accident which I am not familiar with, however, XM
does provide real-time weather METARS and TAF's for the entire country.
(see it at www.wxworx.com)
It has already helped me on just such an occasion. I departed Wichita for
Mason City IFR. The MCW weather was 100 ft & 3/4 mi. That was probably a
doable approach because it was going to be dark when I arrived and the
approach lights would reach into the fog allowing me to land. My alternate
was Fort Dodge Iowa and they had alternate minimums 600-2 or better reported
and forecast. I was going to be min fuel for night IFR when I got to Fort
Dodge. I departed and fired up my XM going. I was watching Mason City,
hoping for improvement, but because the map showed Fort Dodge as well, I
watched it start to fall apart. About 100 miles from MCW Fort Dodge went to
300 foot ceiling with a 24 knot gusting,quartering tailwind on the ILS.
Without the ability to circle, this was a BAD PLAN.
I had briefed a buddy before I departed that I might need a ride and he
should stand-by to pick me up in Fort Dodge. He looked at the Mason City
weather and had already left.
Plan "C" in the back of my mind had been Des Moines, which had good weather,
but there on the XM Map was Ames Iowa with an 800 foot ceiling. I sent a
Text message to my buddy to pick me up in Ames. Ames is actually closer
than Fort Dodge by car, and because he was already started, when I landed
he was 20 minutes away. When the airplane was put to bed, he was there.
Without the XM if I had called flight watch early in the trip, before the
weather started to deteriorate at Fort Dodge, I may have continued, and it
could have be a "no fun" experience. Once things start to fall apart, the
sense of urgency increases and we tend to make poorer decisions. With the
XM on my lap, I had all the information I needed to make good decisions
early and there was no stress at all!!!! I don't need adrenaline rushes any
more, been there done that!
At the risk of being redundant, if you do lots of cross country flying, this
XM is a REALLY BIG DEAL! I just won't venture too far from home without it.
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
XM on a Tablet PC and luvin it!
----- Original Message -----
From: "lucky" <luckymacy(at)comcast.net>
Subject: RV-List: XM Weather & the Fog Crash
>
> Does the XM weather system have a fog or haze symbol? In this case, how
> could it have made a difference? I know this was probably avoidable even
> w/o looking up the particulars of this flight using existing ground info &
> getting a preflight WX brief. But once airborne and you need updated
> final destination or fuel stop fog conditions, can XM weather in the
> cockpit help?
>
> Does the XM weather system have a fog or hazesymbol? In this case, how
> could it have made a difference? I know this was probablyavoidable even
> w/o looking up the particulars of this flight using existing ground info
> getting a preflight WX brief. But once airborne and you need updated final
> destination orfuel stopfog conditions, canXM weather in the cockpit help?
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch> |
| Subject: | Re: XM Weather & the Fog Crash |
If only those XM slackers would get this going in Europe...
Doug Rozendaal wrote:
> At the risk of being redundant, if you do lots of cross country flying, this
> XM is a REALLY BIG DEAL! I just won't venture too far from home without it.
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 Wiring
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | George Neal E Capt AU/CCP <Neal.George(at)maxwell.af.mil> |
| Subject: | 327/Dynon question |
Dana -
If you don't have one of your own, I'll loan you mine.
I closed an aileron yesterday and pulled six un-touched rivets out with the
tape.
>
Now I can put the "dumbass" sign on my forehead for the rest of the today
and wear it proudly knowing I earned it:-)
Dana Overall
<
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | RV-ers near Laurel DE (N06) |
Any RV builders/flyers in the southern DE area?
Looking for add'l info in the geographical area of Laurel (N06) / Georgetown (GED).
Thanks,
Ralph Capen
N822AR getting ready to close the wings....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | New: by-location weather forecast |
The NWS (National Weather Service) has a relatively new service that makes
XML forecast data available for any latitude/longitude you throw at it.
What this means is that we no longer have to rely on the "nearest terminal
forecast" for a useful forecast.
Now you can get a detailed forecast for the exact location you're concerned
with. I wrote a new web service that takes your airport identifier, passes
its lat/lon to the NWS NDFD service, and renders an easy-to-interpret chart
of the forecast for that location.
Go here:
http://www.rvproject.com/wx/
...and click on "NWS Forecast" at the top of the page. Enter your airport
identifier, click the button, done deal.
Enjoy,
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fiveonepw(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: New: by-location weather forecast |
In a message dated 2/7/05 12:06:06 PM Central Standard Time,
dan(at)rvproject.com writes:
> ...and click on "NWS Forecast" at the top of the page. Enter your airport
> identifier, click the button, done deal.
>>>
Awesome stuff, Dan! Couldn't find the "NWS Forecast", tho... Looking in the
wrong place?
Thanks
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: New: by-location weather forecast |
Dan Checkoway wrote:
>
> The NWS (National Weather Service) has a relatively new service that makes
> XML forecast data available for any latitude/longitude you throw at it.
> What this means is that we no longer have to rely on the "nearest terminal
> forecast" for a useful forecast.
>
> Now you can get a detailed forecast for the exact location you're concerned
> with. I wrote a new web service that takes your airport identifier, passes
> its lat/lon to the NWS NDFD service, and renders an easy-to-interpret chart
> of the forecast for that location.
>
> Go here:
>
> http://www.rvproject.com/wx/
>
> ...and click on "NWS Forecast" at the top of the page. Enter your airport
> identifier, click the button, done deal.
Dan, this is another great tool you have assembled! I have set the Local
METARS to my local airport (DCU) and find your page to be one of the
most useful weather links in my Bookmarks. Since it is text based, it is
also a fantastic link for when I use my Dell PDA hooked to my cell
phone. The page loads quickly and gives me the most important weather
data for the area.
Thanks again,
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tony Marshall" <tony(at)lambros.com> |
| Subject: | Re: New: by-location weather forecast |
For Dan Checkoway......you do some very useful work....and this whole RV
list stuff is better because you are involved. Thanks..
tony marshall
rv6
polson, mt
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com>
Subject: RV-List: New: by-location weather forecast
>
> The NWS (National Weather Service) has a relatively new service that makes
> XML forecast data available for any latitude/longitude you throw at it.
> What this means is that we no longer have to rely on the "nearest terminal
> forecast" for a useful forecast.
>
> Now you can get a detailed forecast for the exact location you're
> concerned
> with. I wrote a new web service that takes your airport identifier,
> passes
> its lat/lon to the NWS NDFD service, and renders an easy-to-interpret
> chart
> of the forecast for that location.
>
> Go here:
>
> http://www.rvproject.com/wx/
>
> ...and click on "NWS Forecast" at the top of the page. Enter your airport
> identifier, click the button, done deal.
>
> Enjoy,
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
No, DVD or CD player, but I upload the sportys approach chart DVD to the
harddrive. It takes a couple gig, but I have 15 gig on the disk. When it
is IMC I have played solitaire......
Also, I forgot to add the XM subscription price is $49 or $29/ month. The
49 gets you ACCURATE winds aloft among other things. I am certain that the
speed gain from that info will pay the subscription. I'm getting much
better ground speeds by fling at the correct altitudes. Not to mention what
I save when I make it home instead of staying out because of a line of
weather that I don't want to cross....
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
>
> Can you play dvd's on the tablet pc?
>
> Shemp
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: New: by-location weather forecast |
Thanks Dan. Great new web site.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, flying!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling(at)earthlink.net> |
But is there a way to connect an external dvd player? How about instrument
approaches? Sorry about all of the questions. Sun n fun is still 3 months
away:)
Shemp
----- Original Message -----
From: "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: XM Weather
>
> No, DVD or CD player, but I upload the sportys approach chart DVD to the
> harddrive. It takes a couple gig, but I have 15 gig on the disk. When
> it
> is IMC I have played solitaire......
>
> Also, I forgot to add the XM subscription price is $49 or $29/ month. The
> 49 gets you ACCURATE winds aloft among other things. I am certain that
> the
> speed gain from that info will pay the subscription. I'm getting much
> better ground speeds by fling at the correct altitudes. Not to mention
> what
> I save when I make it home instead of staying out because of a line of
> weather that I don't want to cross....
>
> Tailwinds,
> Doug Rozendaal
>
>
>>
>>
>> Can you play dvd's on the tablet pc?
>>
>> Shemp
>>
>>
>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SportAV8R(at)aol.com |
Sheesh, Doug; I'm not Instrument-rated yet, but I always heard IFR was pretty demanding
flying. You must really trust your auto-pilot, huh?
>>When it
is IMC I have played solitaire......<<
That just sounds dangerous to me.
;o)
-Stormy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Jurotich <mjurotich(at)hst.nasa.gov> |
| Subject: | NACA ducts on RV6 or 6A |
I have to cut the NACA duct cockpit ventilation holes on an existing 6A
with hanging rudder petals. Please give suggestions on the placement
relative to the firewall attach rivets and the row of rivets perpendicular
to the firewall nearest the windshield. I would like to be able to remove
the rudder pedals without removing the NACA ducts. Also what did you use
to attach them? A link to a picture would be great. Thanks in advance.
Matthew M. Jurotich
e-mail mail to:
phone : 301-286-5919
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr(at)petroblend.com> |
| Subject: | Panel mounted PCs was XM Weather |
Good thing it is slow at work today.......
Avidyne is trying to do that in a panel mounted product, (an Avidyne is
really just a Panel mounted PC) and some of the PDA products are trying to
do that on a PDA, but they seem to do the "jack of all trades, master of
none" scenario. I am using my "Electronic Flight Bag" for Weather and
approach plates. I am certain I will be using it for more stuff as time
goes on.
I can see that soon we will have panel mounted PC's in homebuilts that do
all this stuff cost effectively. The display is the toughest ($$$$) part
that I see. It needs to be as bright as a Garmin 430 with a touchscreen, and
any thing less than 8.4" gets too small. That is a big chunk of panel space
in a -4 0r -8. My tablet could never be mounted because I have to move it
to reduce glare.
Before I bought my fujitsu, I was looking at all the Car PC stuff that is
out there. I kept coming up short. Any of you computer geeks got any good
ideas for a machine with a 1GHZ processor, a 20gig hard drive and a smaller
compact flash drive and a pressure switch on the hard drive that shuts it
down at 12,000 ft. All this with a 2000 nit 8.4 inch touch screen for under
a $1000 bucks????? Oh by the way it needs to have some kind of power
management that starts it up when you turn on the avionics master and shuts
it down the same way.
After all my research, the tablet PC was still the best solution I could
find, and I can move it around between airplanes.
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
>
> Im just trying to figure out a way to make the most use out of one screen.
> Ideally I would be able to get terrain info, gps overlay, wx, instrument
> apprs and dvds all on the same screen. Im not sure if its possible yet
> but
> I bet its getting close.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob Prior" <rv7(at)b4.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Panel mounted PCs was XM Weather |
Doug Rozendaal wrote:
> Before I bought my fujitsu, I was looking at all the Car PC stuff that is
> out there. I kept coming up short. Any of you computer geeks got any good
> ideas for a machine with a 1GHZ processor, a 20gig hard drive and a smaller
> compact flash drive and a pressure switch on the hard drive that shuts it
> down at 12,000 ft. All this with a 2000 nit 8.4 inch touch screen for under
> a $1000 bucks?????
The Mac Mini is making giant leaps into the Car PC market. a box the
size of a portable CD-player, two inches thick, with a 1.25Ghz
processor, 20G drive, and USB slots, for $500. Plug a CF reader into
one of the USB slots if you need to.
Why does the Hard Drive need to shut down at 12000'? Supply your own
screen, but since the Mac Mini is only $500 you've got $500 to work with
to stay within your budget... You can get really nice LCD monitors for
that, so you should be able to get a tiny touchscreen.
> Oh by the way it needs to have some kind of power
> management that starts it up when you turn on the avionics master and shuts
> it down the same way.
Why? Add to your start-up checklist right after "turn on avionics
master" and right before "turn on radios" (you do turn your radios off
before turning the master off, right?). Mac's boot pretty fast these
days. Similarly for shutdown, although most Macs and PC's these days
can handle the power cord being pulled.
-Rob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
SportAV8R(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Sheesh, Doug; I'm not Instrument-rated yet, but I always heard IFR
> was pretty demanding flying. You must really trust your auto-pilot,
> huh?
>
>
>>> When it
>
> is IMC I have played solitaire......<<
>
> That just sounds dangerous to me.
>
> ;o)
>
> -Stormy
Stormy, you have to realize that Doug is sorta a new pilot and he hasn't
figured out all this airplane drivin' stuff yet. Matter of fact, here is
a quote from one of his earlier post and you will see that his
qualifications are sorta limited:
"I will share that I am an ATP, CFII, MEI, with type ratings in the
B-25, PBY, DC-3 and additional authorized aircraft rating in the P-51,
F-4U, & T-28 with an "all makes and models, single and multi-engine
piston powered endorsement."
So ya see, he is kinda a dangerous fellow. Get him on your tail with him
in the P-51 and you are dead meat!!!!!
I suspect Doug is capable of playing a pretty hot hand of Solitaire
while in IMC if the mood strikes him...... :-)
Doug, it is good to still have you on the list after all these years!
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: NACA ducts on RV6 or 6A |
Hello Mathew,
I installed my ducts as shown in the picture and drawing attached.
I reinforced the duct attachment by cutting a ring with the same profile as
the plastic duct mounting flange.
I used Pro-seal (tank sealant) between the duct and the skin as a glue and
weather sealant. I put the reinforce ring over the plastic and riveted all
in place.
Others have not reinforced or riveted but I tend toward being a bit anal I
guess.
If you do not intend to install the side cowling hinge pins so as to be
pulled out and pushed in from the NACA duct area the measurements will be
much less critical and installing them higher would make rudder pedal block
bolt access a bit easier.
Done as shown in the photo I can still get the pedal blocks and assembly in
and out.
The measurements in this area (cowling split) might vary slightly from one
homebuilt RV to another so do some careful measuring before cutting.
I used a short length of hobby store tubing as a hinge pin guide for the
distance from the NACA duct to the firewall. I sealed it in place with
Pro-seal.
The measurements from the upper and forward areas are from the skin edges
not the rivet lines.
I used screws to hold my top cowling in place so there should not be any
engine warmed air leaking into the duct as someone else cautioned me
about.?!
I used some screen door fabric over the NACA duct and pushed the scat tubing
on over it to keep the bugs out. (see I told you I am a bit anal) {[B-)
I hope this helps some,
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Matt Jurotich" <mjurotich(at)hst.nasa.gov>
Subject: RV-List: NACA ducts on RV6 or 6A
>
> I have to cut the NACA duct cockpit ventilation holes on an existing 6A
> with hanging rudder petals. Please give suggestions on the placement
> relative to the firewall attach rivets and the row of rivets perpendicular
> to the firewall nearest the windshield. I would like to be able to remove
> the rudder pedals without removing the NACA ducts. Also what did you use
> to attach them? A link to a picture would be great. Thanks in advance.
>
> Matthew M. Jurotich
>
> e-mail mail to:
> phone : 301-286-5919
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
SportAV8R(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Sheesh, Doug; I'm not Instrument-rated yet, but I always heard IFR
> was pretty demanding flying. You must really trust your auto-pilot,
> huh?
What's the point of having an autopilot if you don't trust it? One
reason the EZ-Pilot is in my RV-6 is so I have an aid if for some reason
I can't figure out how to extract myself from a dicey situation. In a
case like that, I will trust the EZ-Pilot with my life!
I have also found that the auto-pilot can fly my plane better than I can
when I am under the hood.........
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob C. " <flyboy.bob(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: New: by-location weather forecast |
Dan,
I think your WX Page is great . . . every pilot I've shown is to loves it!
Thanks,
Bob
>
> The NWS (National Weather Service) has a relatively new service that makes
> XML forecast data available for any latitude/longitude you throw at it.
> What this means is that we no longer have to rely on the "nearest terminal
> forecast" for a useful forecast.
>
> Now you can get a detailed forecast for the exact location you're concerned
> with. I wrote a new web service that takes your airport identifier, passes
> its lat/lon to the NWS NDFD service, and renders an easy-to-interpret chart
> of the forecast for that location.
>
> Go here:
>
> http://www.rvproject.com/wx/
>
> ...and click on "NWS Forecast" at the top of the page. Enter your airport
> identifier, click the button, done deal.
>
> Enjoy,
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Additional info about RV-8 accident |
Listers,
Here is a site with some more information on the RV-8 crash near
Rochester,IN, which tragically took the life of Wilfred Ramsey of Texas.
I heard a story on the radio today where they referred to the plane as
"homemade."
Rochester is about 20 miles north of here. We fly up there often in the
summer for breakfast.
http://www.wndu.com/news/022005/news_40109.php
Dan Hopper
Walton, IN
RV-7A (Flying since last July)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | NACA ducts on RV6 or 6A |
Matthew,
One thing you can do to make life easier is to split the plastic blocks
that hang the pedals in half. I cut mine with a band saw. This way I can
remove the bolts and the top half of the blocks and the pedal assembly
comes out a relatively easy.
Pax,
Ed Holyoke
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Matt Jurotich
Subject: RV-List: NACA ducts on RV6 or 6A
I have to cut the NACA duct cockpit ventilation holes on an existing 6A
with hanging rudder petals. Please give suggestions on the placement
relative to the firewall attach rivets and the row of rivets
perpendicular
to the firewall nearest the windshield. I would like to be able to
remove
the rudder pedals without removing the NACA ducts. Also what did you
use
to attach them? A link to a picture would be great. Thanks in advance.
Matthew M. Jurotich
e-mail mail to:
phone : 301-286-5919
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Gunn" <WGUNN(at)dot.state.tx.us> |
| Subject: | Re: Starter Motor / Alternator Brace |
I made this brace out of 1 inch X 1/4 inch mild steel from Home Depot.
Bend a "S" shape to fit the starter boss mount-to-alternator mount,
drill the two holes and paint. Works great and this does reduce
vibration to help prevent bracket cracking. Before I hade this bracket,
the alternator mount bracket would loosen the engine case bolts (older
style mount bracket; mounted to the engine case bolts). Bill Gunn, RV
4
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Martin Hone" <mctrader(at)bigpond.net.au> |
| Subject: | Alternator Brace |
Thanks to all those that replied, particularly Darrell Morgan, author of the
Forum article. Darrell sent a PDF of Van's drawing that depicts the brace
between the alternator and starter motor. If any one would like a copy,
please email me and I will send you the PDF file
Cheers
Martin in Oz
RV-6 VH-ZMH
_____
<http://promos.hotbar.com/promos/promodll.dll?RunPromo&El&SG&RAND1933&par
tnerfastutility> Block Spam Emails - Click here!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
Dana Overall wrote:
>
> OK gang, here we go again. I'm wiring up the flaps right now. I am using
> the 'Lectric Bob technique with battery, main and essential bus. I was
> going to just wire up the flap motor to the main bus and go on but have the
> room on the essential. I know it is a personnal decision but what about
> pros and cons to just "sticking" it on the essential?? What's everyone else
> done with it??
Dana, I have the flaps wired "hot all the time". I realize this may
sound a bit odd but I find it very convenient to be able to raise the
flaps prior to engine start and lower them after everything has been
shut down. There are other times (maintenance) when it is convenient to
have the flaps operational without turning on the master switch.
This may or may not be a good idea for you but it works great for me.
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Calvert" <rv6(at)cox.net> |
Same here...I have the flaps wired to the battery bus (always hot) for
those very reasons that Sam mentions.
Jerry Calvert
N296JC (60 hours)
Edmond Ok
----- Original Message -----
From: "Sam Buchanan" <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Flaps
>
> Dana Overall wrote:
> >
> > OK gang, here we go again. I'm wiring up the flaps right now. I am
using
> > the 'Lectric Bob technique with battery, main and essential bus. I was
> > going to just wire up the flap motor to the main bus and go on but have
the
> > room on the essential. I know it is a personnal decision but what about
> > pros and cons to just "sticking" it on the essential?? What's everyone
else
> > done with it??
>
>
> Dana, I have the flaps wired "hot all the time". I realize this may
> sound a bit odd but I find it very convenient to be able to raise the
> flaps prior to engine start and lower them after everything has been
> shut down. There are other times (maintenance) when it is convenient to
> have the flaps operational without turning on the master switch.
>
> This may or may not be a good idea for you but it works great for me.
>
> Sam Buchanan
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tedd McHenry <tedd(at)vansairforce.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Confused About Torque Specifications |
A very informative site, for those interested in bolted joints, is
www.boltscience.com. Caveat: this site is about industrial bolt applications,
so many devices and techniques are discussed that aren't appropriate for
aircraft. But there's lots of interesting and informative theory about bolted
joints. I did not, however, find an answer to the question of washers under
bolt heads there.
Another good source of information is "Carroll Smith's Nuts, Bolts, Fasteners
and Plumbing Handbook," available at amazon.com. This is mainly a car-racing
book, but it's all about aircraft fasteners and plumbing hardware (which is
what smart racers use).
If you enjoy Carroll Smith's fasteners book, you may also enjoy his book
"Engineer to Win," which is full of all sorts of interesting mechanical
engineering theory that applies to airplanes.
---
Tedd McHenry
Surrey, BC, Canada
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John D. Heath" <Alto_Q(at)direcway.com> |
| Subject: | Washers and bolts |
TWIMC,
AC 43.13-1B, paragraph 7-86 says "... Cadmium-plated steel warshers are recommended
for use under boltheads and nuts used on aluminum alloy or magnesium structures
to prevent corrision. ...". That's a pretty good reason too.
John D.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fiveonepw(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 2/9/05 12:52:25 AM Central Standard Time,
bo124rs(at)hotmail.com writes:
> What's everyone else
> done with it??
>>>>
One thought- if it were on your main and for whatever reason it began to
runaway, you could kill the master and continue on with the e-bus. Good reason
to
have trims & autopilots on main as well. You'd normally only use it once in
the pattern when you would get it back back by re-engaging the master
(assuming alternator-out ops.), although doing a no-flap landing would maybe be
a
better option if the batt was really low. Running the flap motor could drop bus
voltage enough to lose stuff ya might need in the pattern, such a your radio,
again depending on battery snort remaining...
Is your main bus full? You might consider moving some very-low draw
component to your e-bus instead.
From The PossumWorks in TN
Mark Phillips
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bryan Jones" <rv_8pilot(at)hotmail.com> |
Always hot? Very interesting idea. I can see the benefits. Only thing that
comes to mind is all these spontaneous Ford automobile combustion cases that
have been occurring lately. Any concern about that kind of thing?
Bryan -8
Houston
>
>Dana, I have the flaps wired "hot all the time". I realize this may
>sound a bit odd but I find it very convenient to be able to raise the
>flaps prior to engine start and lower them after everything has been
>shut down. There are other times (maintenance) when it is convenient to
>have the flaps operational without turning on the master switch.
>
>This may or may not be a good idea for you but it works great for me.
>
>Sam Buchanan
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bobby Hester" <bhester(at)hopkinsville.net> |
> -----Original Message-----
> From: "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)new.rr.com>
> To:
> Date: Tue, 8 Feb 2005 21:29 (CDT)
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Flaps
>
>
> Dana:
>
> I put mine on the E buss. They will not draw any power while in cruise
> flight and will be available to you on landing. Otherwise, if you really
> want your flaps and have them on the main buss, you will have to switch on
> your master halfway through the pattern.
>
> Granted, an RV will land just fine without flaps, but since there is no
> current draw until you use them, why not have them on the E buss?
>
> Just my very humble opinion.
>
After reading Sam's reply I beleive the best place is on the battery bus. I can
see how you would need to raise and lower the flaps alot before and after shut
down. I think I change mine tonight.
-------
Surfing the web from Hopkinsville, KY
RV7A web site: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stucklen, Frederic W UTPWR" <Fred.Stucklen(at)UTCFuelCells.com> |
Mike & Listers,
I'm trying to find an electronic version of the SL10 Installation manual.
Mike's list didn't include it, and I haven't been able to find it on the
Garmin site. Does anyone have a copy?
=====================================
Fred Stucklen
RV-6A N926RV
phone: (860)727-2393
fax: (860)998-9396
email: fred.stucklen(at)utcfuelcells.com
Message:
#124797
Subject: more Garmin Appolo Manual
<http://www.matronics.com/searching/getmsg_script.cgi?INDEX=155468073?KEYS=m
anuals?LISTNAME=RV?HITNUMBER=14?SERIAL=06050918430?SHOWBUTTONS=NO> Downloads
Date: Sep 19, 2004
From: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" < mstewart(at)iss.net
>
Here are some more(added the first few here below) manuals popular found
by JB. You will notice by looking at the file names and using the
scheme, that you can find just about anything you are looking for. Some
file names are not intuitive like GPS165TSODzusRail_PilotsGuide.pdf. Ill
try and work on getting the entire directory of everything possible. But
for now, this is a really good list. Old and new, popular in junk. Its
in there. STC, pilot Guide, Supplemental Flight Manual, Quick Reference
Guide, Pilots Guide, Installation Manual, Training Syllabus, all kinds
of very useful stuff in there. Just think about how many times you have
wanted a manual and could not find it. Especially installation manuals
which they seem to keep tight reign on. I ran a job from the office to
get all of these, yes every one, so Ill keep them somewhere just in
case they disappear. Another fella did that right before they took the
appolo site down. I got a file from him like
sl40_install_560-0956-03a.pdf. I mean how would you ever figure out that
filename? So I hope to have these stashed just in case GArmin gets hit
by a bus.
<http://www.garmin.com/manuals/> http://www.garmin.com/manuals/ these
files below. So if you are
looking for a manual, just search this list (ex. Ctl-f 430) and append
the filename to the url above and you will have it.
Enjoy,
Mike Stewart
MX20_InstallationManual.pdf
SL30Nav_Comm_InstallationManual.pdf
......
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Garmin manuals |
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
Look under "discontinued"
http://www.garmin.com/support/userManual.jsp
-
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
Stucklen, Frederic W UTPWR said:
>
>
> Mike & Listers,
>
> I'm trying to find an electronic version of the SL10 Installation
> manual.
> Mike's list didn't include it, and I haven't been able to find it on the
> Garmin site. Does anyone have a copy?
>
> =====================================
> Fred Stucklen
> RV-6A N926RV
> phone: (860)727-2393
> fax: (860)998-9396
> email: fred.stucklen(at)utcfuelcells.com
>
>
> Message:
>
> #124797
>
> Subject: more Garmin Appolo Manual
> <http://www.matronics.com/searching/getmsg_script.cgi?INDEX=155468073?KEYS=m
> anuals?LISTNAME=RV?HITNUMBER=14?SERIAL=06050918430?SHOWBUTTONS=NO>
> Downloads
>
> Date: Sep 19, 2004
> From: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" < mstewart(at)iss.net
> >
>
>
> Here are some more(added the first few here below) manuals popular found
> by JB. You will notice by looking at the file names and using the
> scheme, that you can find just about anything you are looking for. Some
> file names are not intuitive like GPS165TSODzusRail_PilotsGuide.pdf. Ill
> try and work on getting the entire directory of everything possible. But
> for now, this is a really good list. Old and new, popular in junk. Its
> in there. STC, pilot Guide, Supplemental Flight Manual, Quick Reference
> Guide, Pilots Guide, Installation Manual, Training Syllabus, all kinds
> of very useful stuff in there. Just think about how many times you have
> wanted a manual and could not find it. Especially installation manuals
> which they seem to keep tight reign on. I ran a job from the office to
> get all of these, yes every one, so Ill keep them somewhere just in
> case they disappear. Another fella did that right before they took the
> appolo site down. I got a file from him like
> sl40_install_560-0956-03a.pdf. I mean how would you ever figure out that
> filename? So I hope to have these stashed just in case GArmin gets hit
> by a bus.
>
> <http://www.garmin.com/manuals/> http://www.garmin.com/manuals/ these
> files below. So if you are
> looking for a manual, just search this list (ex. Ctl-f 430) and append
> the filename to the url above and you will have it.
> Enjoy,
> Mike Stewart
>
> MX20_InstallationManual.pdf
> SL30Nav_Comm_InstallationManual.pdf
> ......
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DOUGPFLYRV(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 2/9/2005 7:47:39 A.M. Central Standard Time,
Fiveonepw(at)aol.com writes:
One thought- if it were on your main and for whatever reason it began to
runaway, you could kill the master and continue on with the e-bus. Good
reason to
have trims & autopilots on main as well.
Why not just pull the circuit breaker?
Doug
RV7
BHM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart(at)iss.net> |
Using the logic of the download center I was able to find it here:
http://www.garmin.com/manuals/SL10AudioPanel_InstallationManual.pdf
enjoy.
Mike
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Stucklen,
Frederic W UTPWR
Subject: RV-List: Garmin manuals
Mike & Listers,
I'm trying to find an electronic version of the SL10 Installation
manual.
Mike's list didn't include it, and I haven't been able to find it on the
Garmin site. Does anyone have a copy?
=====================================
Fred Stucklen
RV-6A N926RV
phone: (860)727-2393
fax: (860)998-9396
email: fred.stucklen(at)utcfuelcells.com
Message:
#124797
Subject: more Garmin Appolo Manual
<http://www.matronics.com/searching/getmsg_script.cgi?INDEX=155468073?KE
YS=m
anuals?LISTNAME=RV?HITNUMBER=14?SERIAL=06050918430?SHOWBUTTONS=NO>
Downloads
Date: Sep 19, 2004
From: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" < mstewart(at)iss.net
>
Here are some more(added the first few here below) manuals popular found
by JB. You will notice by looking at the file names and using the
scheme, that you can find just about anything you are looking for. Some
file names are not intuitive like GPS165TSODzusRail_PilotsGuide.pdf. Ill
try and work on getting the entire directory of everything possible. But
for now, this is a really good list. Old and new, popular in junk. Its
in there. STC, pilot Guide, Supplemental Flight Manual, Quick Reference
Guide, Pilots Guide, Installation Manual, Training Syllabus, all kinds
of very useful stuff in there. Just think about how many times you have
wanted a manual and could not find it. Especially installation manuals
which they seem to keep tight reign on. I ran a job from the office to
get all of these, yes every one, so Ill keep them somewhere just in
case they disappear. Another fella did that right before they took the
appolo site down. I got a file from him like
sl40_install_560-0956-03a.pdf. I mean how would you ever figure out that
filename? So I hope to have these stashed just in case GArmin gets hit
by a bus.
<http://www.garmin.com/manuals/> http://www.garmin.com/manuals/
these
files below. So if you are
looking for a manual, just search this list (ex. Ctl-f 430) and append
the filename to the url above and you will have it.
Enjoy,
Mike Stewart
MX20_InstallationManual.pdf
SL30Nav_Comm_InstallationManual.pdf
......
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Aircraft Technical Book Company" <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Garmin manuals |
We are supposed to be national distributors for an aftermarket Garmin 430
training manual called Goal-Page-Set. Our first batch of inventory should
be here by late next week.
I haven't even seen this book yet, but we are good friends with the authors,
and I know the initial manuscripts have gotten excellent reviews from AOPA.
I think it was in the last issue of AOPA Flight Instructor.
You can read a preliminary write-up on it in our PilotsBooks catalog in the
navigation section. I'll post more when our actual inventory comes in the
door.
Andy
Builder's Bookstore
www.buildersbooks.com
PilotsBooks
www.Pilotsbooks.com
800 780-4115
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
cgalley wrote:
>
> Any wiring direct circumvents the safety aspect of having a master switch.
>
> Shorts can and do happen. Aluminum airplanes do catch fire from such
> shorts.
>
> Not much left when that happens.
>
> Why take the chance?
>
> Cy Galley
> EAA Safety Programs Editor
> Always looking for ideas and articles for EAA Sport Pilot
Cy, I think we are all working under the assumption that "hot" devices
have their own fuse or breaker. The feed for the flaps on my plane has
an inline fuse at the battery.
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
Bryan Jones wrote:
>
> Always hot? Very interesting idea. I can see the benefits. Only thing that
> comes to mind is all these spontaneous Ford automobile combustion cases that
> have been occurring lately. Any concern about that kind of thing?
>
> Bryan -8
> Houston
None. The feed to the flaps is fused at the battery.
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "cgalley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
Sorry Sam, I missed that one! When one assumes.....
----- Original Message -----
From: "Sam Buchanan" <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Flaps
>
> cgalley wrote:
> >
> > Any wiring direct circumvents the safety aspect of having a master
switch.
> >
> > Shorts can and do happen. Aluminum airplanes do catch fire from such
> > shorts.
> >
> > Not much left when that happens.
> >
> > Why take the chance?
> >
> > Cy Galley
> > EAA Safety Programs Editor
> > Always looking for ideas and articles for EAA Sport Pilot
>
>
> Cy, I think we are all working under the assumption that "hot" devices
> have their own fuse or breaker. The feed for the flaps on my plane has
> an inline fuse at the battery.
>
> Sam Buchanan
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fiveonepw(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 2/9/05 9:12:51 AM Central Standard Time,
DOUGPFLYRV(at)aol.com writes:
> Why not just pull the circuit breaker?
>>>
How's your reaction time? My master is right in front of the stick and I'm
programmed to punch it (rocker switch) immediately if anything misbehaves.
(strictly VFR) Engaging the e-bus gives me back the important stuff (engine
monitor, radios, EFIS etc.) Besides, the only breaker in my plane is the
alternator field lead per Aeroelectric Z-11. All else is fused from a fairly
difficult to reach fuse block. You could always put the feed for flaps & trims
on a
disconnect, (or locate and pull the correct breaker, if applicable) but I
prefer KISS.
Mark -6A N51PW, 150 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <azpilot(at)extremezone.com> |
Case in point why I like breakers. Not that I want to reset a breaker in
flight (something caused it to pop, so don't mess with it). But, when I am
trying to isolate problems, shut something down, it's nice to just pull a
breaker or two. Plus when something fails, it's easy to see that the
breaker popped.
Just personal preference. Bob's method make sense, but something about
being to pull a breaker to cut something off makes more sense to me. This
is exactly why newer Cessnas have a Klixon pull type breaker on the
autopilot. That thing runs away and the a/p disconnect doesn't work, I'm
pulling the breaker!
Paul Besing
RV-6A Sold
RV-10 Soon
Kitlog Builder's Software
www.kitlog.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
Fiveonepw(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Flaps
In a message dated 2/9/05 9:12:51 AM Central Standard Time,
DOUGPFLYRV(at)aol.com writes:
> Why not just pull the circuit breaker?
>>>
How's your reaction time? My master is right in front of the stick and I'm
programmed to punch it (rocker switch) immediately if anything misbehaves.
(strictly VFR) Engaging the e-bus gives me back the important stuff (engine
monitor, radios, EFIS etc.) Besides, the only breaker in my plane is the
alternator field lead per Aeroelectric Z-11. All else is fused from a
fairly
difficult to reach fuse block. You could always put the feed for flaps &
trims on a
disconnect, (or locate and pull the correct breaker, if applicable) but I
prefer KISS.
Mark -6A N51PW, 150 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
One thing to keep in mind about having any electrical circuit hot all the
time is the possibility of shorts due to "growth" of oxide "whiskers." Silver
is especially notorious for this. Copper can also grow oxides and sulfides
with voltage applied 24/7. Any time moisture is present, the constant
voltage promotes leakage currents which can add up to several milliamps and drain
your battery. These effects get worse after time when things get dirty.
I know that there are many circuits in automobiles that are hot all the
time, and that's where the troubles start.
All the above are good reasons to switch everything off with a master relay.
Dan Hopper
Walton, IN
RV-7A (Flying since last July)
In a message dated 2/9/05 9:04:02 A.M. US Eastern Standard Time,
rv_8pilot(at)hotmail.com writes:
Always hot? Very interesting idea. I can see the benefits. Only thing that
comes to mind is all these spontaneous Ford automobile combustion cases that
have been occurring lately. Any concern about that kind of thing?
Bryan -8
Houston
>
>Dana, I have the flaps wired "hot all the time". I realize this may
>sound a bit odd but I find it very convenient to be able to raise the
>flaps prior to engine start and lower them after everything has been
>shut down. There are other times (maintenance) when it is convenient to
>have the flaps operational without turning on the master switch.
>
>This may or may not be a good idea for you but it works great for me.
>
>Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 2/8/05 10:45:14 PM Pacific Standard Time, mphill(at)gcctv.com
writes:
<< I'm getting ready to install the brainbox for the PSS AOA system and was
wondering where everyone has been placing theirs? >>
FWIW I mounted mine on the top sloping surface of the recess box in the
firewall (inside). I made a mounting plate of 0.032 Al. with a short lower lip
and
installed it with 1/4 inch standoffs to protect the brain box from firewall
heat. I mounted the brainbox to the plate using industrial strength Velcro
strips and added a large tie wrap for extra security (belt and suspenders).
Seems to be working fine and is fairly easy to get to if necessary. Tip: check
the volume before finally securing everything. Mine almost blew me out of the
cabin the first time I tried it.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, flying!
________________________________________________________________________________
Mine's on the main bus. I don't see anything wrong with putting it on the
essential bus if you have extra fuses there and not on the main.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, flying!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
Hopperdhh(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> One thing to keep in mind about having any electrical circuit hot all the
> time is the possibility of shorts due to "growth" of oxide "whiskers." Silver
> is especially notorious for this. Copper can also grow oxides and sulfides
> with voltage applied 24/7. Any time moisture is present, the constant
> voltage promotes leakage currents which can add up to several milliamps and
drain
> your battery. These effects get worse after time when things get dirty.
>
> I know that there are many circuits in automobiles that are hot all the
> time, and that's where the troubles start.
>
> All the above are good reasons to switch everything off with a master relay.
>
> Dan Hopper
> Walton, IN
> RV-7A (Flying since last July)
A *bunch* of RVs have "hot" circuits. Anyone who has the very popular
wiring architecture by Bob Nuckolls (Aeroelectric Connection) has an
essential bus feed that is hooked directly to the battery and runs back
to the panel. The feed is protected by either a fuse or a fusible link
but it is hot all the time.
Also, there are many electronic gizmos in our modern panels that have
"keep alive" feeds. My iPAQ, digital clock, Dynon, uMonitor all have
keep alive feeds in order to either charge backup batteries or retain
memory data. With more and and more digital stuff being put in panels,
it seems keep alive circuits are here to stay!
Make sure the wiring to all the devices is protected and we should be
able to sleep easy at night. :-)
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bobby Hester" <bhester(at)hopkinsville.net> |
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Tue, 08 Feb 2005 21:02 (CDT)
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Flaps
>
>
>
> Dana, I have the flaps wired "hot all the time". I realize this may
> sound a bit odd but I find it very convenient to be able to raise the
> flaps prior to engine start and lower them after everything has been
> shut down. There are other times (maintenance) when it is convenient to
> have the flaps operational without turning on the master switch.
>
> This may or may not be a good idea for you but it works great for me.
>
> Sam Buchanan
>
Sam did you add any kind of limit switches on your flaps? Are they needed?
-------
Surfing the web from Hopkinsville, KY
RV7A web site: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
Bobby Hester wrote:
>
>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net>
>>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>>Date: Tue, 08 Feb 2005 21:02 (CDT)
>>Subject: Re: RV-List: Flaps
>>
>>
>>
>>Dana, I have the flaps wired "hot all the time". I realize this may
>>sound a bit odd but I find it very convenient to be able to raise the
>>flaps prior to engine start and lower them after everything has been
>>shut down. There are other times (maintenance) when it is convenient to
>>have the flaps operational without turning on the master switch.
>>
>>This may or may not be a good idea for you but it works great for me.
>>
>>Sam Buchanan
>>
>
>
> Sam did you add any kind of limit switches on your flaps? Are they needed?
Bobby, no limit switches installed and they are not needed in my
opinion. The flap mechanism has some sort of clutch that releases when
the flaps hit the limits and the motor just freewheels.
But....I guess if the flap switch shorted out the flap motor would
continue to run until.......well....I guess until it died or you could
get on the ground and yank the fuse! :-)
It seems to me chances of a switch failure would be quite remote as long
as we use high-quality switches.
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LARRY ADAMSON" <rvhi03(at)msn.com> |
----- Original Message -----
From: Sam Buchanan
Subject: Re: RV-List: Flaps
A *bunch* of RVs have "hot" circuits. Anyone who has the very popular
wiring architecture by Bob Nuckolls (Aeroelectric Connection) has an
essential bus feed that is hooked directly to the battery and runs back
to the panel. The feed is protected by either a fuse or a fusible link
but it is hot all the time.
The Bob Nuckolls circuit that I used, has a switch between the battery and essential
buss. The switch is rated for the essential buss load.
When this switch is off, the essential buss gets it's power from the main buss,
and is protected with a diode, when the main buss is off& essential is switched
on. At the moment, only my clock runs directly off the battery. BTW-- as to
runaway trims, I have a trim disconnect switch, as well as a push/pull circuit
breaker for aileron & elevator. If worse goes to worse, hit the trim disconnect
then take the offending servo/wire off line
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Vanartsdalen <svanarts(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Off topic: 220V Electrical wiring question |
I have a question for any electricians out there. I have a generator with a 220
twist lock socket that has four prongs. My air compressor only has three wires.
I have a 4 prong 220 plug which has terminals labeled X, Y, G(reen) and (I
can't remember the other one.) I only have a white, black, and green wire.
Any idea if I can make this work or not?
--
Scott VanArtsdalen
RV-4 N311SV, FLYING!!
When a man does all he can
though it succeeds not well,
blame not him that did it."
-- George Washington
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan Brown <dan(at)familybrown.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Off topic: 220V Electrical wiring question |
-----BEGIN PGP SIGNED MESSAGE-----
Hash: SHA1
Scott Vanartsdalen wrote:
| only has three wires. I have a 4 prong 220 plug which has terminals
| labeled X, Y, G(reen) and (I can't remember the other one.) I only
| have a white, black, and green wire. Any idea if I can make this
| work or not?
Two of the terminals on the plug are probably brass, a third is silver,
and the fourth is green. If the compressor motor is 220V, the black and
white wires will go to the two brass terminals, the green wire to the
green terminal, and nothing to the silver terminal.
- --
Dan Brown, KE6MKS, dan(at)familybrown.org
"Since all the world is but a story, it were well for thee to buy the
more enduring story rather than the story that is less enduring."
~ -- The Judgment of St. Colum Cille
-----BEGIN PGP SIGNATURE-----
iD8DBQFCCsyEyQGUivXxtkERAtgaAKDW2iIzhttdSDDJKWh4mczrRB5iyQCg63RT
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-----END PGP SIGNATURE-----
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Off topic: 220V Electrical wiring question |
Scott,
Household 220 is made up of two 110v legs of opposite polarity. One is
pushing while the other pulls and they reverse 60 times a second. Fire
off your generator and test (with a wiggy or an AC voltmeter) the prongs
on your plug. If one prong of your generator shows 110 when tested to
ground (or green) and another prong does the same, test from one prong
to the other. If they are of the same polarity, you get nothing. If they
are opposite you get 220v. They'll probably be the X and Y prongs. Those
two legs would be hooked to the black and white wires from your
compressor (doesn't matter which). Greens would be hooked to each other.
The fourth prong should be neutral (white when wiring for 110v), which
will act just like ground. Ignore this prong. You only need it if you
are setting up two 110v circuits.
Check the wiring diagram on your compressor motor. Some of them can be
wired for 110 or 220 by moving some connectors. Make sure that the motor
is wired for 220 B4 hooking it up that way!
Pax,
Ed Holyoke
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Scott
Vanartsdalen
Subject: RV-List: Off topic: 220V Electrical wiring question
I have a question for any electricians out there. I have a generator
with a 220 twist lock socket that has four prongs. My air compressor
only has three wires. I have a 4 prong 220 plug which has terminals
labeled X, Y, G(reen) and (I can't remember the other one.) I only have
a white, black, and green wire. Any idea if I can make this work or
not?
--
Scott VanArtsdalen
RV-4 N311SV, FLYING!!
When a man does all he can
though it succeeds not well,
blame not him that did it."
-- George Washington
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Safety Notice - Verify Proper Flap Hinge Pin Installation |
I purchased an RV8 (about 130h TTAF), and yesterday noticed a
problem with my flap hinge installation which could result in
nearly complete loss of aileron travel. Please confirm that
the following problem doesn't apply to your airplane.
The flap hinge pin was cut exactly to the length of the flap
hinge, and a hole was cut in the inboard aileron hinge flange
to facilitate installation of the flap hinge pin from the
outboard side. The flap hinge pin was not secured against
movement in either the inboard or outboard direction.
After feeling an abnormal "bump" at full aileron deflection,
the pin was seen to have moved outboard far enough to
interfere with the last few degrees of aileron deflection.
Had the pin continued to move outboard, it would have
traveled past the aileron hinge flange, and inserted itself
INSIDE the aileron itself, limiting the aileron travel to
only a very few degrees.
Whether or not a pilot could diagnose the problem and then
overpower the obstruction I hope we never find out, but it
certainly presents the potential to make the airplane almost
completely without ailerons.
Scott Keadle
KRUQ Salisbury, NC
N844RF RV-8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | GMC <gmcnutt(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Safety Notice - Verify Proper Flap Hinge Pin Installation |
Hi Scott
Thanks for the "heads up".
If not already fixed you can thread the hole and install a threaded plug
(with Locktite) to prevent the hinge pin from coming out again.
George in Langley BC.
I purchased an RV8 (about 130h TTAF), and yesterday noticed a
problem with my flap hinge installation which could result in
nearly complete loss of aileron travel. Please confirm that
the following problem doesn't apply to your airplane.
The flap hinge pin was cut exactly to the length of the flap
hinge, and a hole was cut in the inboard aileron hinge flange
to facilitate installation of the flap hinge pin from the
outboard side. The flap hinge pin was not secured against
movement in either the inboard or outboard direction.
After feeling an abnormal "bump" at full aileron deflection,
the pin was seen to have moved outboard far enough to
interfere with the last few degrees of aileron deflection.
Had the pin continued to move outboard, it would have
traveled past the aileron hinge flange, and inserted itself
INSIDE the aileron itself, limiting the aileron travel to
only a very few degrees.
Whether or not a pilot could diagnose the problem and then
overpower the obstruction I hope we never find out, but it
certainly presents the potential to make the airplane almost
completely without ailerons.
Scott Keadle
KRUQ Salisbury, NC
N844RF RV-8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Edward Cole" <edwardmcole(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | AOA cpu location |
I mounted mine under the pilot's seat pan in the last bay nearest the
wing root using 2 pieces of aluminum angle. It was a nice snug fit.
I have a hole in the seat pan the allows access to the volume pot which
gets covered with a piece of tape to keep the dust out.
This allowed me to pick up the tubing right out of the wing conduit and
tap into the pitot and static lines which are also in the same area.
Ed Cole
RV6A
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of HCRV6(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: RV-List:
In a message dated 2/8/05 10:45:14 PM Pacific Standard Time,
mphill(at)gcctv.com
writes:
<< I'm getting ready to install the brainbox for the PSS AOA system and
was
wondering where everyone has been placing theirs? >>
FWIW I mounted mine on the top sloping surface of the recess box in the
firewall (inside). I made a mounting plate of 0.032 Al. with a short
lower lip and
installed it with 1/4 inch standoffs to protect the brain box from
firewall
heat. I mounted the brainbox to the plate using industrial strength
Velcro
strips and added a large tie wrap for extra security (belt and
suspenders).
Seems to be working fine and is fairly easy to get to if necessary.
Tip: check
the volume before finally securing everything. Mine almost blew me out
of the
cabin the first time I tried it.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, flying!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gordon or Marge Comfort" <gcomfo(at)tc3net.com> |
| Subject: | Safety Notice - Verify Proper Flap Hinge Pin Installation |
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of with HTTP/1.1
Subject: RV-List: Safety Notice - Verify Proper Flap Hinge Pin
Installation
The flap hinge pin was cut exactly to the length of the flap
hinge, and a hole was cut in the inboard aileron hinge flange
to facilitate installation of the flap hinge pin from the
outboard side. The flap hinge pin was not secured against
movement in either the inboard or outboard direction.
Scott Keadle
KRUQ Salisbury, NC
N844RF RV-8
Scott: Another fix is to replace the hinge pin with one long enough to
remain engaged with all the hinge eyes while extending to the inboard
aileron hinge bracket. At the point where the pin exits the hinge, a
slight bend is introduced in the pin. This will allow the pin to be
installed as before but prevent it from migrating outboard past the
bracket. It also will prevent possible travel in the inboard direction.
Gordon Comfort
N363GC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Safety Notice - Verify Proper Flap Hinge Pin Installation |
Scott,
Just bend the last inch of the flap hinge pin so that it misses the hole by
about 1/8 inch. It will not be able to start itself into the hole, but you
can reach up with a pair of pliers and start it through. That's all I have
keeping my flap pin in place.
Dan Hopper
Walton, IN
RV-7A (Flying)
In a message dated 2/10/05 1:05:56 A.M. US Eastern Standard Time,
scott(at)keadle.com writes:
I purchased an RV8 (about 130h TTAF), and yesterday noticed a
problem with my flap hinge installation which could result in
nearly complete loss of aileron travel. Please confirm that
the following problem doesn't apply to your airplane.
The flap hinge pin was cut exactly to the length of the flap
hinge, and a hole was cut in the inboard aileron hinge flange
to facilitate installation of the flap hinge pin from the
outboard side. The flap hinge pin was not secured against
movement in either the inboard or outboard direction.
After feeling an abnormal "bump" at full aileron deflection,
the pin was seen to have moved outboard far enough to
interfere with the last few degrees of aileron deflection.
Had the pin continued to move outboard, it would have
traveled past the aileron hinge flange, and inserted itself
INSIDE the aileron itself, limiting the aileron travel to
only a very few degrees.
Whether or not a pilot could diagnose the problem and then
overpower the obstruction I hope we never find out, but it
certainly presents the potential to make the airplane almost
completely without ailerons.
Scott Keadle
KRUQ Salisbury, NC
N844RF RV-8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob J <rocketbob(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Safety Notice - Verify Proper Flap Hinge Pin Installation |
An easy fix for this: push the hinge pin back in place, and put an
aluminum-mandrel pop rivet or a cotter pin in the bracket hole. If
you need to remove the flap for some reason, simply drill out the pop
rivet or remove the cotter pin.
Bob Japundza
RV-6 flying F1 under const.
>
> I purchased an RV8 (about 130h TTAF), and yesterday noticed a
> problem with my flap hinge installation which could result in
> nearly complete loss of aileron travel. Please confirm that
> the following problem doesn't apply to your airplane.
>
> The flap hinge pin was cut exactly to the length of the flap
> hinge, and a hole was cut in the inboard aileron hinge flange
> to facilitate installation of the flap hinge pin from the
> outboard side. The flap hinge pin was not secured against
> movement in either the inboard or outboard direction.
>
> After feeling an abnormal "bump" at full aileron deflection,
> the pin was seen to have moved outboard far enough to
> interfere with the last few degrees of aileron deflection.
> Had the pin continued to move outboard, it would have
> traveled past the aileron hinge flange, and inserted itself
> INSIDE the aileron itself, limiting the aileron travel to
> only a very few degrees.
>
> Whether or not a pilot could diagnose the problem and then
> overpower the obstruction I hope we never find out, but it
> certainly presents the potential to make the airplane almost
> completely without ailerons.
>
> Scott Keadle
> KRUQ Salisbury, NC
> N844RF RV-8
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DWENSING(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Safety Notice - Verify Proper Flap Hinge Pin Installation |
In a message dated 2/10/05 1:05:56 AM Eastern Standard Time, scott(at)keadle.com
writes:
> The flap hinge pin was cut exactly to the length of the flap
> hinge, and a hole was cut in the inboard aileron hinge flange
> to facilitate installation of the flap hinge pin from the
> outboard side. The flap hinge pin was not secured against
> movement in either the inboard or outboard direction.
>
Scott,
A suggested remedy for your flap pin situation. Go to the local hobby shop
and pick up a package of 1/16" collars with Allen head set screws. Cut a new
hinge pin that is about an inch longer than the flap hinge. Install a collar on
the inboard end of the flap pin and tighten the set screw. The pin can now move
only inward toward the fuse.
Or, if you do not want to buy a new pin, and since your pin was cut to the
exact length of the hinge you can remove one of the hinge segments and place
the collar at that point which will only allow a little movement in either
direction.
I used this method and so far it has worked perfectly.
Dale Ensing
RV6A N118DE
Aero Plantation NC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Travis Hamblen" <TravisHamblen(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Oil Air Separator |
I have read the suggestions posted here about modifying the homebuilders oil
air separator by inserting the stainless steel pot scrubbers. My question
is, how does this improve the performance of the separator? What is inside
the separator before it is modified? Lastly, how does this thing work? I
have heard that it is a gravity type deal, but I don=92t see how gravity
separates the oil, water, and air into separate output tubes. I understand
how to do the modification, but just wanted to see if anyone could answer
these questions before I cut into the separator.
Travis
RV-6A @ VGT
--
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "james frierson" <tn3639(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Oil Air Separator |
The separator works by taking the incoming blow-by gasses from the engine
and directing it towards the wall of the separator. The suspended oil/water
in the gasses collects on the sides and drains to the bottom. By adding the
SS pot scrubbers gives the suspended oil/water more area to collect on.
Check the archives and you will find more information on this subject.
Scott
RV6A Flying.
>From: "Travis Hamblen" <TravisHamblen(at)cox.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV-List: Oil Air Separator
>Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2005 09:10:01 -0800
>
>
>I have read the suggestions posted here about modifying the homebuilders
>oil
>air separator by inserting the stainless steel pot scrubbers. My question
>is, how does this improve the performance of the separator? What is inside
>the separator before it is modified? Lastly, how does this thing work? I
>have heard that it is a gravity type deal, but I don=92t see how gravity
>separates the oil, water, and air into separate output tubes. I understand
>how to do the modification, but just wanted to see if anyone could answer
>these questions before I cut into the separator.
>
>
>Travis
>
>RV-6A @ VGT
>
>
>--
>Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 2/9/2005 8:07:29 P.M. Pacific Standard Time,
Hopperdhh(at)aol.com writes:
One thing to keep in mind about having any electrical circuit hot all the
time is the possibility of shorts due to "growth" of oxide "whiskers."
Silver
is especially notorious for this.
=======================
Actually it is pure Tin plating that is notorious for this. Google search
on "Tin Whiskers" for more info.
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 736hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Oil Air Separator |
In my opinion you cannot evaporate oil with high temp. Now with that said
you can evaporate water with high temp. So the water vapor, just passes
through. The oil mist, collects on the pot scrubber, drains down and back
to the crank case.
>
>I have read the suggestions posted here about modifying the homebuilders oil
>air separator by inserting the stainless steel pot scrubbers. My question
>is, how does this improve the performance of the separator? What is inside
>the separator before it is modified? Lastly, how does this thing work? I
>have heard that it is a gravity type deal, but I don=92t see how gravity
>separates the oil, water, and air into separate output tubes. I understand
>how to do the modification, but just wanted to see if anyone could answer
>these questions before I cut into the separator.
>
>
>Travis
>
>RV-6A @ VGT
>
>
>--
>Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com> |
| Subject: | Safety Notice - Verify Proper Flap Hinge Pin Installation |
Wow...people have a LOT of fixes for this, and it's nice to see a bunch of
innovative ideas.
That being said, many of us ole slow builders simply removed a center couple
of eyes from the hinges themsleves, cut the pin in two, bent two eyes on the
end and safety wired them together. Believe it or not, it makes removing
the flaps a cinch! The longest piece of pin you deal with is less than 3'
long, plus there is no holes in the Aileron bracket, etc....
It's now probably an "out of date" idea on these newer kits, but
none-the-less I'll still probably do it that way on my next one just because
it's so slick.
Just my 2 cents!
Cheers,
Stein.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of DWENSING(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Safety Notice - Verify Proper Flap Hinge Pin
Installation
In a message dated 2/10/05 1:05:56 AM Eastern Standard Time,
scott(at)keadle.com
writes:
Scott,
A suggested remedy for your flap pin situation. Go to the local hobby shop
and pick up a package of 1/16" collars with Allen head set screws. Cut a new
hinge pin that is about an inch longer than the flap hinge. Install a collar
on
the inboard end of the flap pin and tighten the set screw. The pin can now
move
only inward toward the fuse.
Or, if you do not want to buy a new pin, and since your pin was cut to the
exact length of the hinge you can remove one of the hinge segments and place
the collar at that point which will only allow a little movement in either
direction.
I used this method and so far it has worked perfectly.
Dale Ensing
RV6A N118DE
Aero Plantation NC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | emrath(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | RE: Safety Notice- Verify Proper Flap Hinge Pin Installation |
Or one can just put a piece of safetywire through the aileron bracket hole on the
out board end, and crimp shut part of the last hinge piece on the inboard end.
Marty
From: GMC <gmcnutt(at)shaw.ca>
Subject: Safety Notice - Verify Proper Flap Hinge Pin Installation
Hi Scott
Thanks for the "heads up".
If not already fixed you can thread the hole and install a threaded plug
(with Locktite) to prevent the hinge pin from coming out again.
George in Langley BC.
I purchased an RV8 (about 130h TTAF), and yesterday noticed a
problem with my flap hinge installation which could result in
nearly complete loss of aileron travel. Please confirm that
the following problem doesn't apply to your airplane.
The flap hinge pin was cut exactly to the length of the flap
hinge, and a hole was cut in the inboard aileron hinge flange
to facilitate installation of the flap hinge pin from the
outboard side. The flap hinge pin was not secured against
movement in either the inboard or outboard direction.
After feeling an abnormal "bump" at full aileron deflection,
the pin was seen to have moved outboard far enough to
interfere with the last few degrees of aileron deflection.
Had the pin continued to move outboard, it would have
traveled past the aileron hinge flange, and inserted itself
INSIDE the aileron itself, limiting the aileron travel to
only a very few degrees.
Whether or not a pilot could diagnose the problem and then
overpower the obstruction I hope we never find out, but it
certainly presents the potential to make the airplane almost
completely without ailerons.
Scott Keadle
KRUQ Salisbury, NC
N844RF RV-8
Or one can just put a piece of safetywire through the aileron bracket hole on the
out board end, and crimp shut part of the last hinge piece on the inboard end.
Marty
Time:
From:
GMC gmcnutt(at)shaw.ca
Subject:
Safety Notice - Verify Proper Flap Hinge Pin Installation
-- RV-List message posted by: GMC gmcnutt(at)shaw.ca
Hi Scott
Thanks for the "heads up".
If not already fixed you can thread the hole and install a threaded plug
(with Locktite) to prevent the hinge pin from coming out again.
George in Langley BC.
-- RV-List messag
e posted by: scott@keadle.com with HTTP/1.1;
I purchased an RV8 (about 130h TTAF), and yesterday noticed a
problem with my flap hinge installation which could result in
nearly complete loss of aileron travel. Please confirm that
the following problem doesn't apply to your airplane.
The flap hinge pin was cut exactly to the length of the flap
hinge, and a hole was cut in the inboard aileron hinge flange
to facilitate installation of the flap hinge pin from the
outboard side. The flap hinge pin was not secured against
movement in either the inboard or outboard di
rection.
After feeling an abnormal "bump" at full aileron deflection,
the pin was seen to have moved outboard far enough to
interfere with the last few degrees of aileron deflection.
Had the pin continued to move outboard, it would have
traveled past the aileron hinge flange, and inserted itself
INSIDE the aileron itself, limiting the aileron travel to
only a very few degrees.
Whether or not a pilot could diagnose the problem and then
overpower the obstruction I hope we never find out, but it
certainly presents the potential to make the airplane almost
; completely without ailerons.
Scott Keadle
KRUQ Salisbury, NC
N844RF RV-8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DWENSING(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Max PRM adjustment |
Need to adjust/reduce max RPM on O-360 w/Hartzell CS prop and Woodward
governor. Searched archive but no info found. Do I adjust the governor or the prop?
Dale Ensing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Oil Air Separator |
In a message dated 2/10/2005 1:50:38 P.M. Pacific Standard Time,
TravisHamblen(at)cox.net writes:
I have read the suggestions posted here about modifying the homebuilders oil
air separator by inserting the stainless steel pot scrubbers. My question
is, how does this improve the performance of the separator? What is inside
the separator before it is modified? Lastly, how does this thing work? I
have heard that it is a gravity type deal, but I don't see how gravity
separates the oil, water, and air into separate output tubes. I understand
how to do the modification, but just wanted to see if anyone could answer
these questions before I cut into the separator.
=====================================
I have done this and it really works well. Don't bother with the expensive
ones. Just buy the big common inexpensive one (if you have room on the
firewall). Wicks carries both the 5/8" and the 3/4" dia hose barb equipped ones.
Two offset tubes come into the central canister portion of the separator and
the action of getting the air from one tube to the other causes an abrupt
change in direction. Anything more massive than the air (oil vapor) keeps
going, condenses right against the side of the canister and is ultimately drained
out the bottom tap into a drainable receptacle.
The theory is sound but the action is imperfect, some oil still gets out
thru the tube and ends up on the a/c belly. Adding the pot scrubber gives the
action the additional condensing ability it needs to ring the smaller oil
aspirate out of the air stream.
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 736hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Max PRM adjustment |
In a message dated 2/10/2005 2:15:08 P.M. Pacific Standard Time,
DWENSING(at)aol.com writes:
Need to adjust/reduce max RPM on O-360 w/Hartzell CS prop and Woodward
governor. Searched archive but no info found. Do I adjust the governor or
the prop?
=========================================
On the prop. This is very easy to accomplish and requires only a hex key
wrench of the appropriate size and an ignition wrench for the jam nut. This
procedure is covered in the Hartzell manual 115N Rev 7 Page 4-4 thru 4-5 (for
their common non-feathering props) and
Page 4-6 thru 4-7 (for their feathering props).
Basically, to reduce max rpm you loosen the jam nut slightly and hold it
from turning with the ignition wrench. Then turn the Allen screw clockwise (in)
and hold it from turning as you retighten the jam nut. Torque values are
all listed in the procedure.
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 736hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Lervold" <randy(at)romeolima.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Max PRM adjustment |
> Need to adjust/reduce max RPM on O-360 w/Hartzell CS prop and Woodward
> governor. Searched archive but no info found. Do I adjust the governor or
the prop?
> Dale Ensing
If this is at flying speeds then adjust the governor... easy to do.
Randy Lervold
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Lervold" <randy(at)romeolima.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Max PRM adjustment |
> On the prop. This is very easy to accomplish and requires only a hex key
> wrench of the appropriate size and an ignition wrench for the jam nut.
This
> procedure is covered in the Hartzell manual 115N Rev 7 Page 4-4 thru 4-5
(for
> their common non-feathering props) and
> Page 4-6 thru 4-7 (for their feathering props).
>
> Basically, to reduce max rpm you loosen the jam nut slightly and hold it
> from turning with the ignition wrench. Then turn the Allen screw
clockwise (in)
> and hold it from turning as you retighten the jam nut. Torque values are
> all listed in the procedure.
>
> GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 736hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
GV, my understanding is that the only time to set the pitch stops on the
prop hub is for adjusting static (aircraft stationary) rpm. Once you're in
flight the governor controls everything so long as the pitch stops allow
enough travel.
Randy Lervold
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | GMC <gmcnutt(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Oil Air Separator |
Since nobody has mentioned this as yet I will chime in and say that if you
do add a pot scrubber to the air oil separator also add an item on your
conditional inspection to check it periodically, un-maintained, they can
plug up with sludge and pressurize the crankcase.
George in Langley BC
-------
In a message dated 2/10/2005 1:50:38 P.M. Pacific Standard Time,
TravisHamblen(at)cox.net writes:
I have read the suggestions posted here about modifying the homebuilders
oil
air separator by inserting the stainless steel pot scrubbers. My question
is, how does this improve the performance of the separator? What is inside
the separator before it is modified? Lastly, how does this thing work? I
have heard that it is a gravity type deal, but I don't see how gravity
separates the oil, water, and air into separate output tubes. I understand
how to do the modification, but just wanted to see if anyone could answer
these questions before I cut into the separator.
=====================================
I have done this and it really works well. Don't bother with the expensive
ones. Just buy the big common inexpensive one (if you have room on the
firewall). Wicks carries both the 5/8" and the 3/4" dia hose barb equipped
ones.
Two offset tubes come into the central canister portion of the separator
and
the action of getting the air from one tube to the other causes an abrupt
change in direction. Anything more massive than the air (oil vapor) keeps
going, condenses right against the side of the canister and is ultimately
drained
out the bottom tap into a drainable receptacle.
The theory is sound but the action is imperfect, some oil still gets out
thru the tube and ends up on the a/c belly. Adding the pot scrubber gives
the
action the additional condensing ability it needs to ring the smaller oil
aspirate out of the air stream.
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 736hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fiveonepw(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Oil Air Separator |
In a message dated 02/10/2005 3:50:38 PM Central Standard Time,
TravisHamblen(at)cox.net writes:
how does this improve the performance of the separator?
>>>
Oil mist from the crankcase vent condenses on the HUGE surface area provided
by the many strands of stainless steel of the pot scrubbers as the oily gases
flow through it, and slowly runs down to the bottom of the separator. (not
advisable to let this drain back into the sump- nasty stuff, could contain bad
materials such as water and combustion gas by-products!) I routinely drain at
least 2 or 3 tablespoons of oil from my separator at each 50 hour oil change.
From The PossumWorks in TN
Mark Phillips
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DWENSING(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Proper Flap Hinge Pin Installation |
In a message dated 2/10/05 11:58:52 PM Eastern Standard Time,
Hopperdhh(at)aol.com writes:
> Just bend the last inch of the flap hinge pin so that it misses the hole by
>
> about 1/8 inch. It will not be able to start itself into the hole, but you
>
> can reach up with a pair of pliers and start it through. That's all I have
>
> keeping my flap pin in place.
>
>
Dan,
Tried that but the aileron hinge bracket hits the flap hinge pin when the
aileron is in the up position. At least on the 6 it does.
Dale Ensing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | sarg314 <sarg314(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil Air Separator |
I'd like to hear from some people who don't have an oil air separator.
Are there any such?
Not having one clearly saves a little weight and money and makes for a
little less clutter under the cowl. Does the oil that gets dumped on
the underside of the plane cause any real problem aside from the need to
clean it off?
--
Tom Sargent, RV-6A, engine.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "randall" <rv6n6r(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: oil cooler hinge at the bottom? |
> It seems to me easier to manage the oil cooler door if it was hinged on
the bottom and not the top so it just flops down out of the way and stays
there on a windy day. Never seen it done so I must be missing something.
Anyone been there done that and have an opinion?
>
> thx,
> lucky
I don't think a hinged door is worthwhile regardless of where the hinge is.
Mine is hinged on the side and either too much air still blows through
(pushing the door open a bit) or else it swirls around the fins because it
makes little difference in oil temp at least in winter when I want it to
work closed. So even with the door I end up sticking a plate on the front in
the winter to block it compeletely, otherwise the OT won't even get up into
the green. If I were doing it over I'd make a sliding door that goes up from
the bottom and covers the front of the cooler. I saw a picture of such an
installation on a -6 somewhere....
Randall Henderson
RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "randall" <rv6n6r(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Weighty Question |
> Dear Dan,
> Very good point, but how much time am I going to spend climbing vs.
cruising?
>
> If weight would be of a concern to you, would you then go 180hp/Hartzell
CS, ...or take the other option, a 200hp/FP setup?
> (Anyone know the weight difference anyway between these two setups, just
curious?)
>
> So, please pick one of the two options, and tell me why you think one
would be better then the other?
For MY purposes, I would pick a CS over a larger engine. The reasons include
better acceleration, better climb, better deceleration -- overall the plane
simply responds to power changes more quickly. It also gives you better
performance at high altitudes than FP props typically do. The quicker
response to power changes is especially helpful when flying formation, if
you do that sort of thing.
The weight penalty with my Hartzell CS prop is a factor. The plane doesn't
have as light of a feel in aerobatics and maneuvering as a lighter weight RV
does. But that's comparing RVs to RVs -- it still beats any factory plane
I've flown hands down. And the weight thing can be overcome by lightening
your wallet by the amount needed to purchase one of those new lightweight CS
props!
Bottom line, the CS prop suits the way I fly, but others will have different
priorities. Just my .02.
Randall Henderson
RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bryan Jones" <rv_8pilot(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Max PRM adjustment |
January 29, 2005 - February 11, 2005
RV-Archive.digest.vol-ql