RV-Archive.digest.vol-ra
June 26, 2005 - July 08, 2005
| Subject: | Re: Ground Power Runs for FAA Compliance? |
Many first flight accidents are fuel related, I don't know if any
DAR/FAA person will ask you if
you have done it but it is a good idea to do so. What you use to get the
nose high attitude is
up to you. On my RV-6 I was able to use a loading ramp up to a loading
dock that was close to
my hangar.
Greg Grigson wrote:
>
>What experiences and thoughts are out there concerning
>techniques used to perform an engine run in a "nose
>high above stall attitude to ensure full fuel flow
>full"? It sounds like it could be a little risky. I
>hope this doesn't mean a full power run. In the 6A is
>the tail tied down to...what?
>
>This is out of the EAA "Amateur-Built Aircraft
>Certification Inspection Guide" developed for ASIs and
>DARs. Is this a requirement that those already flying
>have done and documented?
>
>Thanks.
>Greg in Honolulu
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cory Emberson" <bootless(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Cost of Windshield/Window Replacement? |
Hello everyone,
I just have a quick question, and would like to know the (approximate) cost
of windscreen and window replacement in, say, an RV-6 or -7. (I'm drawing a
comparison between the wisdom of keeping your Plexi clean and scratch-free,
versus having to replace the windows after major scratch damage.
Thanks so much,
Cory
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Leonard <wdleonard(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cost of Windshield/Window Replacement? |
On 6/26/05, Cory Emberson wrote:
>
>
> Hello everyone,
>
> I just have a quick question, and would like to know the (approximate)
> cost
> of windscreen and window replacement in, say, an RV-6 or -7. (I'm drawing
> a
> comparison between the wisdom of keeping your Plexi clean and
> scratch-free,
> versus having to replace the windows after major scratch damage.
>
> Thanks so much,
> Cory
Cory, it is a BIG job to replace the canopy in the RV-6. My guess would be
$500 and 1-2 months of part time work. Dont even think about it, avoid the
scratches from the start.
--
Dave Leonard
Turbo Rotary RV-6 N4VY
http://members.aol.com/_ht_a/rotaryroster/index.html
http://members.aol.com/vp4skydoc/index.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Knicholas2(at)aol.com |
THe brake calipers on my RV9A rattle. I took the wheel apart to diagnose and
fix it but the caliper "floats' on the wheel bracket with no way to tighten
it. Has anyone noticed this and is there a way to stop the noise?
Kim Nicholas
Seattle
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cory Emberson" <bootless(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Cost of Windshield/Window Replacement? |
Hi Dave,
Nice to hear from you, and thanks for the information! I saw a photo of your
plane (with the cool and very memorable N number) when I was researching
another article.
It seems penny foolish to not take care of the "eyes" of any plane,
especially since cleaning it is so much cheaper than replacing damaged
glass!
thanks again,
Cory
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of David Leonard
Subject: Re: RV-List: Cost of Windshield/Window Replacement?
On 6/26/05, Cory Emberson wrote:
>
>
> Hello everyone,
>
> I just have a quick question, and would like to know the (approximate)
> cost
> of windscreen and window replacement in, say, an RV-6 or -7. (I'm drawing
> a
> comparison between the wisdom of keeping your Plexi clean and
> scratch-free,
> versus having to replace the windows after major scratch damage.
>
> Thanks so much,
> Cory
Cory, it is a BIG job to replace the canopy in the RV-6. My guess would be
$500 and 1-2 months of part time work. Dont even think about it, avoid the
scratches from the start.
--
Dave Leonard
Turbo Rotary RV-6 N4VY
http://members.aol.com/_ht_a/rotaryroster/index.html
http://members.aol.com/vp4skydoc/index.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobby Hester <bhester(at)hopkinsville.net> |
| Subject: | Re: brake rattle |
Knicholas2(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>THe brake calipers on my RV9A rattle. I took the wheel apart to diagnose and
>fix it but the caliper "floats' on the wheel bracket with no way to tighten
>it. Has anyone noticed this and is there a way to stop the noise?
>
>Kim Nicholas
>Seattle
>
>
Check to make sure you have them installed properly. Look near the
bottom of this page it show the wrong way and the right way.
http://members.hopkinsville.net/bhester/ElectricalSystemPg1.htm
--
Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
RV7A Slowbuild wings-QB Fuse :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Fuel vapors in cockpit |
> I have noticed that after aerobatics, I have streaks from both vents from
> the bottom fuselage to the top of the wing where fuel has been vented out
> of the vent lines. Of course, I can smell avgas during aerobatics.
>
> Why this happens I don't know?
>
> Bob
> RV6 NightFighter
Bob, let me take a shot at this. If you are going vertical, the end of the
vent which is inside the tank is submerged, provided the tank is mostly
full. As you go vertical, the air pressure outside the plane drops. The
air/fumes which are now trapped inside the tank wants to get out. The now
pressurizing fumes in the tank push fuel out through the vent. Completely
normal for Van's design. Good thing you don't have the vertical of an F16.
Alex Peterson
RV6A 630 hours
Maple Grove, MN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Besing" <paul(at)kitlog.com> |
| Subject: | Cost of Windshield/Window Replacement? |
When I replaced mine, the canopy alone was $1000 including crating and
shipping. Not to mention the labor. That was all because I had a crack in
the original installation. Take extra care of the canopy. Use plexus or
something similar. I used to keep a ziploc bag with a lint free polishing
cloth and plexus. If the canopy was dusty, I would spray it off with water
before cleaning. Also, don't clean in a circular motion. Straight up and
down. Any scratches that could be introduced will not be near as noticeable
if it is cleaned in a linear fashion.
Paul Besing
RV-6A Sold
Kitlog Builder's Software
www.kitlog.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Cory Emberson
Subject: RV-List: Cost of Windshield/Window Replacement?
Hello everyone,
I just have a quick question, and would like to know the (approximate) cost
of windscreen and window replacement in, say, an RV-6 or -7. (I'm drawing a
comparison between the wisdom of keeping your Plexi clean and scratch-free,
versus having to replace the windows after major scratch damage.
Thanks so much,
Cory
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Compass Swinging |
From the faa AC 43.13-1B ACCEPTABLE METHODS, TECHNIQUES, AND PRACTICES - AIRCRAFT
INSPECTION AND REPAIR
How to swing a compass:
http://www.faa.gov/certification/aircraft/av-info/dst/43-13/Ch_12-03.doc
Make sure you fill out a correction card out, even if it is wrong or says all
heading are +/-0.0 the FAA will like to see it. I don't look at mag heading much
anymore with GPS. Really why when I fly track.
Enjoy George
---------------------------------
Stay connected, organized, and protected. Take the tour
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch> |
| Subject: | transponder check cost |
Hi,
Does anyone know approximately what it costs to get a
transponder checked and properly calibrated?
Thanks,
Mickey
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 Canopy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Mcmahon" <rv6(at)earthlink.net> |
For those that have been flying for awhile,a question..
I have the normal #3 cylinder hot issue.I am trying to find
out the best air dam system to put on #1 cylinder..
1 Use silver tape over leading edge of #1 cylinder
fins high enough to even out #1 and#3..
2 Build 3/4 angle type with different height plates
that do not touch fins of #1 cylinder..
Seating the rings on new Aero Sport 0360
Thanks
John McMahon (RV6 Flying WEEEE)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Glasgow" <willfly(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Brake line incident. |
I have the grove set up also and don't feel there is enough room for a hose, especially
after the pants are on.
I plan to make new aluminum lines periodically, maybe every 3 years or so? Also
with the lack of space between the pant when the line flexes the problem may
not happen as the flexing may be stopped by the pant itself.
Steve Glasgow
N123SG RV-8
Cappy's Toy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling2(at)earthlink.net> |
Wow, now thats a set up even Vans has to be proud of.
Shemp/Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, N915JD
200 hours
Chicago/Louisville
----- Original Message -----
From: "Duane Bentley" <dbentley(at)fuse.net>
Subject: RV-List: Re: Dynon
>
> I have about 110 hrs on my RV6, and around 10 hrs IMC with the Dynon. I
> flew back from Cape Cod to Cincinnati, Ohio last month, with half of
> that either between solid cloud layers or IMC. I have the STec 30 AP
> which displays turn and bank plus slip along with altitude hold, a
> regular analog airspeed gage, and the Rocky Mountain microencoder. My
> scan includes constant cross check between the Dynon attitude and the
> STec. I've not had any surprises.
>
>
> I basically have triple redundancy on airspeed and double on altitude.
> Without question, I find I have to stay current to fly IFR in this
> plane, and fly a couple of 1-2 hours a month under the hood. I also
> wouldn't fly IMC if the STec wasn't functioning.
>
>
> I added the chart view function to my MX20 / GX 60 / SL30 package which
> works well, although it was pricey. Make sure you have the right chart
> loaded, because trying to fly and change approaches at the last minute
> can be a major challenge. I also put in the WSI satellite weather into
> my MX20 and find it to be absolutely great for long Xcntry in IMC. I
> was telling NY center where I wanted to go and when I wanted to turn,
> and found it to be right on the money working around storms. Cruising
> between 8000 and 10000 feet out and back, with 170 - 175 KTAS, I had
> several controllers in the North East asking to tell them again what
> type equipment I was flying. After saying RV6 / G, I frequently got the
> question asking how many engines it had.
>
>
> Duane Bentley
>
> N515DB
>
> West Chester, OH
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ron Lee <ronlee(at)pcisys.net> |
| Subject: | Waco, Texas; off topic |
First, go to Airnav.com
http://www.airnav.com/airport/KPWG
phone number for FBO is there so call them about hangars unless
an individual can help.
TFR source: http://www.aopa.org/whatsnew/notams.html
For Crawford, procedures may require flight plan and talking to ATC. Verify
by talking to FSS (1-800-WXBRIEF).
I strongly suggest using Flight Following.
Know intercept procedures and don't repeat the DC incursion flap.
http://www.aopa.org/whatsnew/newsitems/2001/010918intercept.html
Don't do stupid stuff. With GPS there is ZERO reason to bust a TFR.
Ron Lee
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling2(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Air Dam #1 Cyl |
I just bent some 0.020 and pop riveted it to the baffle. Works fine. I
think you can get carried away trying to adjust the size to get an "exact"
match.
Shemp/Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, N915JD
200 hours
Chicago/Louisville
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Mcmahon" <rv6(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RV-List: Air Dam #1 Cyl
>
> For those that have been flying for awhile,a question..
> I have the normal #3 cylinder hot issue.I am trying to find
> out the best air dam system to put on #1 cylinder..
>
> 1 Use silver tape over leading edge of #1 cylinder
> fins high enough to even out #1 and#3..
>
> 2 Build 3/4 angle type with different height plates
> that do not touch fins of #1 cylinder..
>
> Seating the rings on new Aero Sport 0360
> Thanks
> John McMahon (RV6 Flying WEEEE)
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Galati <rick6a(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | re: Cost of Windshield/Window Replacement? |
A few years back, I discovered a rather deep scratch on the right hand inside of
the windshield portion of my RV-6A slider canopy bubble. Because of the wrinkly
nature of the translucent plastic "shrinkwrap" protecting the plexiglass,
the scratch had gone unnoticed after the finishing kit inventory was completed
and the canopy sat on the basement floor for well over a year before I got around
to noticing the damage. Had I reported the defect within 30 days, I could
have gotten a new one but as it was, I was told by Van's I really had only two
options. The first was to polish out the deep scratch with micromesh. I did
this successfully but was unhappy with the optical distortion that resulted.
Option two was to order a new windshield from the vendor who supplies Van with
new canopies. I contacted them (AeroPlastics?) and ordered a new one. The
cost at that time was $350. I offered and subsequently sold the original windscreen
for $40 but was almost embarrassed when I had
to
inform the seller that UPS wanted $150 to ship it in the required outsized packaging!
Rick Galati RV-6A "Darla"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Huft <rv8(at)lazy8.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Brake line incident. |
I have the Grove gear legs also. I put a right angle fitting on the
bottom of the gear leg, then ran the hose around the end to the brake
cylinder. Has worked fine under the wheel pants.
John
Steve Glasgow wrote:
>
>I have the grove set up also and don't feel there is enough room for a hose, especially
after the pants are on.
>
>I plan to make new aluminum lines periodically, maybe every 3 years or so? Also
with the lack of space between the pant when the line flexes the problem may
not happen as the flexing may be stopped by the pant itself.
>
>Steve Glasgow
>N123SG RV-8
>Cappy's Toy
>
>
>.
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob <panamared3(at)brier.net> |
| Subject: | Re: transponder check cost |
>Does anyone know approximately what it costs to get a
>transponder checked and properly calibrated?
My guy, Randall Hash out of Bluefield WV charges $175. Make an appointment
and he will meet you at the airport, takes about an hour.
Bob
RV6 NightFighter
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Finn Lassen <finn.lassen(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Brake line incident. |
Yes, but will they stand up to the heat?
Finn
Mickey Coggins wrote:
>
>
>
>>>1) Go to your local autoparts store and pick up two flexible lines made for
>>>grease guns. These hoses are good for 3000 PSI and have male pipe thread
>>>fittings on each end.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>I found them at Grainger:
>>
>>http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/searchresults.jsp?search_type=keyword&QueryString=grease+gun+hose&catindx1=Hoses%2C&catindx2=Grease+Gun&xi=xi
>>
>>Looks like a great idea! I might have to do this for my next annual.
>>
>>
>>
>
>This is a good idea. I've got the Grove gear on my 8, and the
>brake "line" comes out at the very bottom of the leg. This
>does not leave much room for a flexible hose. Has anyone
>found a solution for this? I've got some pictures here to
>help clarify what I'm talking about:
>
> http://www.rv8.ch/article.php?story 050314214854320
>
>I guess grease gun hose would be flexible enough to wrap around
>there.
>
>Thanks,
>Mickey
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fiveonepw(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Brake line incident. |
In a message dated 6/26/05 9:10:34 AM Central Daylight Time,
akroguy(at)hotmail.com writes:
> Go to your local autoparts store and pick up two flexible lines made for
> >grease guns. These hoses are good for 3000 PSI and have male pipe thread
> >fittings on each end.
>>>>
Might want to consider using a real brake line, available from racing supply
houses. Stainless braid & made to take the heat. I used one on my oil
pressure sender, but really think it would be the ticket for the brakes as well.
May even be available with male end to screw direct into caliper? See:
http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/index.php?q=log_entry&log_id=5313
Mark Phillips
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fiveonepw(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Ground Power Runs for FAA Compliance? |
In a message dated 6/26/05 3:36:14 PM Central Daylight Time,
iflyhawaii2(at)yahoo.com writes:
> What experiences and thoughts are out there concerning
> techniques used to perform an engine run in a "nose
> high above stall attitude to ensure full fuel flow
> full"? It sounds like it could be a little risky. I
> hope this doesn't mean a full power run. In the 6A is
> the tail tied down to...what?
>
>>>>
I know this looks a little scary, but faced with the same problem (test pilot
requirement!) it worked well. Rope tied to nose leg is tensioned a bit with
a come-a-long to keep the plane held down on the ramps, which are sitting on
large aluminum plates normally used for main wheels of friends C-150 tie-down
spot- very stable during test run...
http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/index.php?q=log_entry&log_id=5201
Mark Phillips
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming(at)sigecom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Air Dam #1 Cyl |
I put mine in with nut plates under the baffle and counter sunk the screws
in the dam plate. I can remove the plate and alter it to get it just right.
I found an 1/8" difference in the height of the dam matters.
Indiana Larry, RV7 Tip Up It Flies
"The American Republic will endure until the day Congress discovers
that it can bribe the public with the public's own money."
Alexis de Toqueville
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling2(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Air Dam #1 Cyl
>
>
> I just bent some 0.020 and pop riveted it to the baffle. Works fine. I
> think you can get carried away trying to adjust the size to get an "exact"
> match.
>
> Shemp/Jeff Dowling
> RV-6A, N915JD
> 200 hours
> Chicago/Louisville
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "John Mcmahon" <rv6(at)earthlink.net>
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: Air Dam #1 Cyl
>
>
>>
>> For those that have been flying for awhile,a question..
>> I have the normal #3 cylinder hot issue.I am trying to find
>> out the best air dam system to put on #1 cylinder..
>>
>> 1 Use silver tape over leading edge of #1 cylinder
>> fins high enough to even out #1 and#3..
>>
>> 2 Build 3/4 angle type with different height plates
>> that do not touch fins of #1 cylinder..
>>
>> Seating the rings on new Aero Sport 0360
>> Thanks
>> John McMahon (RV6 Flying WEEEE)
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Walter Tondu <walter(at)tondu.com> |
| Subject: | Re: transponder check cost |
On 06/27 9:38, Mickey Coggins wrote:
> Does anyone know approximately what it costs to get a
> transponder checked and properly calibrated?
Mode S transponder checks are running about $100 here in So Cal.
Not sure about Mode C. But Mode S must be done with the transponder
in the plane. I believe that you can have your mode C trans ponder
done out of plane.
--
Walter Tondu
http://www.rv7-a.com
DAR Inspection Next Weekend
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Oke <wjoke(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Ground Power Runs for FAA Compliance? |
Gosh, actually running the engine at full power while restraining the
airplane in a nose high attitude looks like overkill! How about just
positioning the aircraft and seeing if the fuel pump will deliver the fuel
needed to sustain the engine at full power. That is, disconnect the fuel
line at the carb and run the pump for a short while capturing the fuel in a
calibrated container. The engine/carb combination is surely a well-proven
item, it's the fuel system that needs checking (for unobserved kinks in the
lines, building debris clogging valves, etc.)
That's what the Canadian regs require.
Jim Oke
Winnipeg, MB
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Fiveonepw(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Ground Power Runs for FAA Compliance?
In a message dated 6/26/05 3:36:14 PM Central Daylight Time,
iflyhawaii2(at)yahoo.com writes:
> What experiences and thoughts are out there concerning
> techniques used to perform an engine run in a "nose
> high above stall attitude to ensure full fuel flow
> full"? It sounds like it could be a little risky. I
> hope this doesn't mean a full power run. In the 6A is
> the tail tied down to...what?
>
>>>>
I know this looks a little scary, but faced with the same problem (test
pilot
requirement!) it worked well. Rope tied to nose leg is tensioned a bit with
a come-a-long to keep the plane held down on the ramps, which are sitting on
large aluminum plates normally used for main wheels of friends C-150
tie-down
spot- very stable during test run...
http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/index.php?q=log_entry&log_id=5201
Mark Phillips
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tom Casey <tomatwork(at)netscape.com> |
| Subject: | Back riveting wing skins |
I'm beginning to rivet the inboard top skins on my -8 wings. I've begun the process
using the Avery 12" offset back rivet set. Many of the rivets are very slightly
clenched. A few have been drilled out twice because I wasn't happy with
them andthen replaced with NAS1097 (oops) rivets. Obviously this isn't a situation
I'm happy with.(I've only donetwo ribs so far) Holding the back rivet set
absolutely steady and centered is necessary but I'm not sure its worth the trouble.
Has anyone else has better luck back riveting the wings? I'm also concerned
aboutusing too many oops rivets--so far only three or four. I like the improved
appearance of the back riveted surfaces but not at the cost of decreased
strength. Techniques? Opinions?
--Tom
Netscape. Just the Net You Need.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Furey" <john(at)fureychrysler.com> |
| Subject: | In Flight Weather |
For any of you thinking of buying a weather system for your plane I highly
recommend the AWWX package by Control Vision. There are several providers
out there and they all may be great but I have never seen a company work so
hard to satisfy their customers as Control Vision did for me. I won't waste
your time with the details but Tom Reed (VP of Operations) went so far as to
give me his personal phone number and had me call him at home and on
vacation, enough said. There are several display options with any of the
providers, PDA, Tablet, etc. Although some say they need the bigger screen I
found the PDA to be just fine. This is one of those products that once you
use it you will never want to be without it. This post is not meant to put
down any other providers, it is just to highlight a company that really made
customer satisfaction a priority.
John Furey
2nd RV6A, F1 Rocket "in the oven"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Back riveting wing skins |
>
>
>I'm beginning to rivet the inboard top skins on my -8 wings. I've begun the
>process using the Avery 12" offset back rivet set. Many of the rivets are
>very slightly clenched. A few have been drilled out twice because I wasn't
>happy with them andthen replaced with NAS1097 (oops) rivets. Obviously this
>isn't a situation I'm happy with.(I've only donetwo ribs so far) Holding
>the back rivet set absolutely steady and centered is necessary but I'm not
>sure its worth the trouble. Has anyone else has better luck back riveting
>the wings? I'm also concerned aboutusing too many oops rivets--so far only
>three or four. I like the improved appearance of the back riveted surfaces
>but not at the cost of decreased strength. Techniques? Opinions?
>
>
> --Tom
Opinions? HERE?? Nah, it'll never happen. ;)
I tried backriveting on my -8 wings as well and just didn't find the only
marginally better surface finish to be worth the trauma of using that long,
slightly bent set. One slip and look out, major ding in the skin. We did a
few ribs with this technique then swapped over to conventional riveting with
a swivel set and never looked back. Now, I have had excellent results
backriveting other stuff on the RV10, especially the tailcone skins, but
used the shorter set with the plastic spring loaded sleeve around the shank.
Those work great. The two piece aileron/elevator/flap/rudders on the
modern era kits are ripe candidates for back riveting on the bench top with
this setup. The depth of the wings makes the use of this smaller, more
controllable set rather difficult. Maybe others have used it to advantage
but it wasn't my cup 'o tea.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
RV10 '51
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Brake line incident. |
Mickey:
The flex lines (#2 or #3) have a min radius of 1.5 to 2.0 inches. Looks like you
have that room(?).
Cheers George
Subject: Re: Brake line incident.
>>1) Go to your local autoparts store and pick up two flexible lines made
for
>>grease guns. These hoses are good for 3000 PSI and have male pipe thread
>>fittings on each end.
>>
> I found them at Grainger:
>
> http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/searchresults.jsp?search_type=keyword&QueryString=grease+gun+hose&catindx1=Hoses%2C&catindx2=Grease+Gun&xi=xi
>
> Looks like a great idea! I might have to do this for my next annual.
>
This is a good idea. I've got the Grove gear on my 8, and the
brake "line" comes out at the very bottom of the leg. This
does not leave much room for a flexible hose. Has anyone
found a solution for this? I've got some pictures here to
help clarify what I'm talking about:
http://www.rv8.ch/article.php?story 050314214854320
I guess grease gun hose would be flexible enough to wrap around
there.
Thanks,
Mickey
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 Canopy
---------------------------------
Rekindle the Rivalries. Sign up for Fantasy Football
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Folbrecht <paulfolbrecht(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: In Flight Weather |
I 2nd this. I just bought AnywhereMap/WX with an iPaq 4705 and it is
the stuff. Beats the heck out of my Garmin 295 in every way.. even
w/out the weather (which is killer).
Haven't had to deal with their CS - it's worked perfectly out of the box.
I don't work for them. ;->
John Furey wrote:
>
>For any of you thinking of buying a weather system for your plane I highly
>recommend the AWWX package by Control Vision. There are several providers
>out there and they all may be great but I have never seen a company work so
>hard to satisfy their customers as Control Vision did for me. I won't waste
>your time with the details but Tom Reed (VP of Operations) went so far as to
>give me his personal phone number and had me call him at home and on
>vacation, enough said. There are several display options with any of the
>providers, PDA, Tablet, etc. Although some say they need the bigger screen I
>found the PDA to be just fine. This is one of those products that once you
>use it you will never want to be without it. This post is not meant to put
>down any other providers, it is just to highlight a company that really made
>customer satisfaction a priority.
>
>John Furey
>2nd RV6A, F1 Rocket "in the oven"
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Ground Power Runs for FAA Compliance? |
The technique of checking fuel flow is found in Tony Bingelis, Firewall Forward
book. Actually for pump aircraft it is 1.25% over max takeoff fuel flow (far
23.955c). Also you should consider takeoff attitude (steep in an RV) and acceleration
in any ground test. Of course building a well designed popular kit plane
like the RV , per plans, should produce an acceptable fuel system.
Over the years I keep reading common questions and mistakes that keep being re-discovered.
Tony's other books: Sport Plane Builder and Sport Plane Construction,
are also good. I admit they are a little dated and dedicate many pages to
rag and tube and wood construction , but there are still pearls of wisdom to be
found. One of those is fuel system design and testing. That is why following
the plans is important. Since kits are so complete today we don't have to test
very much, as long as you build it per plans. You should be careful before making
mods to the fuel system because there are many traps and it is a critical
system.
Lets face it planes have not changed much in 50 years. If you have access to them
it is a good place to check. Often critical errors can be avoided by going
to the "Dead Sea Scrolls".
I am no old timer but have been into it for 15 years. The explosion of experimental
aircraft due to quick build kits, pre-punch, new clone Lycomings and the
world wide web builder sites have made building easier and quicker. However it
seems some of the old news of homebuilt airplanes has been forgotten. Many
IDEAS that people have tried or think of have been thought of tried. No need to
reinvent the wheel. IF you have never seen the Bingelis book you should scan
once for ideas. May be it is not relevant any more with the Web? What you think,
is there anything better in book form as a general reference to building.
WOW I am getting old.
Cheers George
From: "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net>
Subject: Ground Power Runs for FAA Compliance?
Greg,
Prop the airplane in a nose high attitude, disconnect the fuel line at
the crab and time how long it takes to pump a pint or a quart into a
container. Do the math for GPH. If I remember right, you want to see at
least 1.5 times your max fuel burn.
Pax,
Ed Holyoke
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Greg Grigson
Subject: RV-List: Ground Power Runs for FAA Compliance?
What experiences and thoughts are out there concerning
techniques used to perform an engine run in a "nose
high above stall attitude to ensure full fuel flow
full"? It sounds like it could be a little risky. I
hope this doesn't mean a full power run. In the 6A is
the tail tied down to...what?
This is out of the EAA "Amateur-Built Aircraft
Certification Inspection Guide" developed for ASIs and
DARs. Is this a requirement that those already flying
have done and documented?
Thanks.
Greg in Honolulu
---------------------------------
Get on-the-go sports scores, stock quotes, news & more. Check it out!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Phil Birkelbach <phil(at)petrasoft.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Back riveting wing skins |
I gave up on backrivetting my wing skins and found that I got better
results with the swivel set.
Godspeed,
Phil Birkelbach - Houston Texas
RV-7 N727WB - Finishing Up
http://www.myrv7.com
Tom Casey wrote:
>
>
>I'm beginning to rivet the inboard top skins on my -8 wings. I've begun the process
using the Avery 12" offset back rivet set. Many of the rivets are very slightly
clenched. A few have been drilled out twice because I wasn't happy with
them andthen replaced with NAS1097 (oops) rivets. Obviously this isn't a situation
I'm happy with.(I've only donetwo ribs so far) Holding the back rivet set
absolutely steady and centered is necessary but I'm not sure its worth the
trouble. Has anyone else has better luck back riveting the wings? I'm also concerned
aboutusing too many oops rivets--so far only three or four. I like the
improved appearance of the back riveted surfaces but not at the cost of decreased
strength. Techniques? Opinions?
>
>
> --Tom
>
>
>Netscape. Just the Net You Need.
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Fasching" <N1CXO320(at)peoplepc.com> |
| Subject: | Riveting Wing Skins |
One of the members of EAA Chapter 1161, Upper Arkansas Valley, CO, came up
with a slick way for ONE MAN/WOMAN to rivet wing skins. He uses a steel
plate about 3 x 5 x 5/8 as a 'bucking bar' and places it under the skin.
From above, he places two very powerful rare-earth magnets which hold the
plate in place. He rivets between the two magnets. The magnets are strong
enough to hold the 'bucking bar' in place even while the rivet gun is
'banging away.'
The quality of the riveting looks very good. In tight places where it is
hard to reach, he used a piece of 2 x 4 wood with a small 'shelf' cut in the
end to hold the steel plate and get it where the rivet is to be placed. When
the magnets are placed above it grabs the plate and the 2 x 4 can be
removed.
I forwarded our Chapter's newsletter which featured this idea to Van's in
case they might like to publish the idea in the RVATOR.
The fellow who came up with this idea is Roger Bloomfield, an RV builder.
John
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Gill" <wgill10(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Back riveting wing skins |
Ditto!
Bill Gill
RV-7 Finish
Lee's Summit, MO
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Phil Birkelbach
Subject: Re: RV-List: Back riveting wing skins
I gave up on backrivetting my wing skins and found that I got better
results with the swivel set.
Godspeed,
Phil Birkelbach - Houston Texas
RV-7 N727WB - Finishing Up
http://www.myrv7.com
Tom Casey wrote:
>
>
>I'm beginning to rivet the inboard top skins on my -8 wings. I've begun
the process using the Avery 12" offset back rivet set. Many of the
rivets are very slightly clenched. A few have been drilled out twice
because I wasn't happy with them andthen replaced with NAS1097 (oops)
rivets. Obviously this isn't a situation I'm happy with.(I've only
donetwo ribs so far) Holding the back rivet set absolutely steady and
centered is necessary but I'm not sure its worth the trouble. Has anyone
else has better luck back riveting the wings? I'm also concerned
aboutusing too many oops rivets--so far only three or four. I like the
improved appearance of the back riveted surfaces but not at the cost of
decreased strength. Techniques? Opinions?
>
>
> --Tom
>
>
>Netscape. Just the Net You Need.
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Fenstermacher" <dfenstermacher(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | rear spar dimple/countersink question. |
Rear spar on an 8.
Earlier, the directions say to dimple the inboard dozen, or so, holes. Then the
directions say to "clean-up" the holes with a countersink bit.
The question is - am I to dimple the entire spar and then clean 'em all up with
a cutter. I remember thinking that dimpling this thick flange was wrong. I
went ahead and did it. Hmmm (and yes, I looked in the archives).
My gut reaction is to countersink the holes and not to dimple at all. Thoughts....
This is the last thing to do before riveting the skins on.........
Tanks folks,
Dave
David Fenstermacher
dfenstermacher(at)earthlink.net
David Fenstermacher
dfenstermacher(at)earthlink.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DonVS" <dsvs(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Back riveting wing skins |
I also gave up on back riveting the wing skins. The quality was far better
when done the conventional way,
Don VS
7 Finishing Kit
N12VS reserved
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Phil Birkelbach
Subject: Re: RV-List: Back riveting wing skins
I gave up on backrivetting my wing skins and found that I got better
results with the swivel set.
Godspeed,
Phil Birkelbach - Houston Texas
RV-7 N727WB - Finishing Up
http://www.myrv7.com
Tom Casey wrote:
>
>
>I'm beginning to rivet the inboard top skins on my -8 wings. I've begun the
process using the Avery 12" offset back rivet set. Many of the rivets are
very slightly clenched. A few have been drilled out twice because I wasn't
happy with them andthen replaced with NAS1097 (oops) rivets. Obviously this
isn't a situation I'm happy with.(I've only donetwo ribs so far) Holding the
back rivet set absolutely steady and centered is necessary but I'm not sure
its worth the trouble. Has anyone else has better luck back riveting the
wings? I'm also concerned aboutusing too many oops rivets--so far only three
or four. I like the improved appearance of the back riveted surfaces but not
at the cost of decreased strength. Techniques? Opinions?
>
>
> --Tom
>
>
>Netscape. Just the Net You Need.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaztuna(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Back riveting wing skins |
Tom,
My initial results with the Avery long back rivet set, mirrored yours. I
found that the slight "angle" at the end of the set was insufficient. I
heated the bend area with an acetylene torch and added another 4 degrees of
bend. I think the total bend was about 11 degrees. With this modification,
the tool worked well. However, as I moved down (rearward) the ribs, I had
problems towards the rear spar. The taper of the main ribs, forced me to
increase the angle of the tool.
I later borrowed a "C" style back riveting set from another builder. I
found this tool to be the best method of back riveting any and all parts of
my 8A. These are pricey new, about $138. You can find them on EBay for
about $15 to $22 each used. I purchased 6 of these from the EBay vendor
known as Alien Spirit. All the locals love them. They come in 2 sizes. I
find the longer set the most useful. I own both. I only use the smaller set
for places where the large one won't reach. See
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=4558334963&category=26442&sspagename=WDVW
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=4558362026&category=26442&sspagename=WDVW
My C sets are not offset like the ones in the web links above. However, I
doubt the offset would increase the difficulty in using them. Good luck.
Charlie Kuss
>
>
>I'm beginning to rivet the inboard top skins on my -8 wings. I've begun
>the process using the Avery 12" offset back rivet set. Many of the rivets
>are very slightly clenched. A few have been drilled out twice because I
>wasn't happy with them andthen replaced with NAS1097 (oops) rivets.
>Obviously this isn't a situation I'm happy with.(I've only donetwo ribs so
>far) Holding the back rivet set absolutely steady and centered is
>necessary but I'm not sure its worth the trouble. Has anyone else has
>better luck back riveting the wings? I'm also concerned aboutusing too
>many oops rivets--so far only three or four. I like the improved
>appearance of the back riveted surfaces but not at the cost of decreased
>strength. Techniques? Opinions?
>
>
> --Tom
>
>
>Netscape. Just the Net You Need.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Casey" <tomatwork(at)netscape.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Back riveting wing skins |
Thanks to everyone who offered their opinions. I thought everyone would be
back riveting their wings but it turns out lots of folks feel the way I'm
beginning to! I think I'll put the 12" back rivet set up for sale on Ebay
and finish up the old fashionned way! --Tom
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tom Casey" <tomatwork(at)netscape.com>
Subject: RV-List: Back riveting wing skins
>
>
> I'm beginning to rivet the inboard top skins on my -8 wings. I've begun
the process using the Avery 12" offset back rivet set. Many of the rivets
are very slightly clenched. A few have been drilled out twice because I
wasn't happy with them andthen replaced with NAS1097 (oops) rivets.
Obviously this isn't a situation I'm happy with.(I've only donetwo ribs so
far) Holding the back rivet set absolutely steady and centered is necessary
but I'm not sure its worth the trouble. Has anyone else has better luck back
riveting the wings? I'm also concerned aboutusing too many oops rivets--so
far only three or four. I like the improved appearance of the back riveted
surfaces but not at the cost of decreased strength. Techniques? Opinions?
>
>
> --Tom
>
>
> Netscape. Just the Net You Need.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Ground Power Runs for FAA Compliance? |
On 27 Jun 2005, at 18:39, bertrv6(at)highstream.net wrote:
>
> Quoting Greg Grigson :
>
>
>>
>> What experiences and thoughts are out there concerning
>> techniques used to perform an engine run in a "nose
>> high above stall attitude to ensure full fuel flow
>> full"? It sounds like it could be a little risky. I
>> hope this doesn't mean a full power run. In the 6A is
>> the tail tied down to...what?
>>
>> This is out of the EAA "Amateur-Built Aircraft
>> Certification Inspection Guide" developed for ASIs and
>> DARs. Is this a requirement that those already flying
>> have done and documented?
>>
>> Thanks.
>> Greg in Honolulu
>>
>>
> Greg:
> It might help you, but Tony's Bengalis book, one of them, I cannot
> remmember which one, tells the way to check, how much fuel you must
> have
> going thru, when on climbing attitude...is a siple procedure.
>
> If you have the books, (which I recommend highly to any one) you
> will find
> that info.
>
> The E.A.A. might also give the same...
>
>
The official info on the FAA is in Advisory Circular 90-89A Amateur-
Built Aircraft and Ultralight Flight Testing Handbook. There is lots
of very useful info in this document, including instructions on how
to do the fuel flow test, and what the minimum fuel flow should be.
http://av-info.faa.gov/data/advisorycircular/ac90-89a.pdf
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rv6fly <rv6fly(at)bresnan.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Back riveting wing skins |
Tom Casey wrote:
>
>Thanks to everyone who offered their opinions. I thought everyone would be
>back riveting their wings but it turns out lots of folks feel the way I'm
>beginning to! I think I'll put the 12" back rivet set up for sale on Ebay
>and finish up the old fashionned way! --Tom
>
>
>
> Tom, I wouldn't give up so quickly. The results are so nice with
> back riveting and your helper doesn't have to do much. (IOW, less
> chance for screw-ups) I did the opposite of Charlie. I heated the set
> and took out some of the bend. When using the set, support the end
> with the thumb and forefinger against the work. I don't believe you
> need as much air if you're using the "dumbbell", heavy type bucking
> bar. I riveted conventionally on my RV6 but on the 6A I helped build
> in Gillette, we back riveted the wings and the fuselage. We used one
> piece wing skins and they turned out great. I think back riveting is
> much faster, as well. If I were to build another airplane (wife says
> something about "a cold day"), I'd for sure back rivet.
> Bob Skinner
>
>
>
>
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Callender" <tcallender(at)alltel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Back riveting wing skins |
Tom,
I ordered the 12" offset back rivet set from Avery and had a note that said
if found that I didn't like it... or the results after using it, I could
return it for a full refund. Won't hurt to ask... btw after a little
practice I got good results... Tom C
> Thanks to everyone who offered their opinions. I thought everyone would be
> back riveting their wings but it turns out lots of folks feel the way I'm
> beginning to! I think I'll put the 12" back rivet set up for sale on Ebay
> and finish up the old fashionned way! --Tom
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Brake line incident. |
> George,
>
> I think you are right. I've ordered some hose and fittings,
> and as soon as I get them installed I'll take some pictures
> and put them on my site. Got hooked up with a good supplier
> off-list. Thanks, Jack!
>
> Mickey
Lots of discussion about hoses etc. being used for the final run to the
brake calipers. Don't forget that properly designed aluminum lines in this
area will be trouble free also. Make a nice large orbit (maybe 4 - 6"
diameter?) of the axle with the aluminum tubing, and fasten it to the
fairing mount properly, and it will last forever. Think about the motion
that the caliper needs to go through during operation when you design the
loop. Use RTV if necessary to dampen or prevent vibration, or to prevent
chafing.
Alex Peterson
RV6A N66AP 630 hours
Maple Grove, MN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Dube <bdube(at)al.noaa.gov> |
| Subject: | Re: Riveting Wing Skins |
At 03:07 PM 6/27/2005, you wrote:
>
>One of the members of EAA Chapter 1161, Upper Arkansas Valley, CO, came up
>with a slick way for ONE MAN/WOMAN to rivet wing skins. He uses a steel
>plate about 3 x 5 x 5/8 as a 'bucking bar' and places it under the skin.
> From above, he places two very powerful rare-earth magnets which hold the
>plate in place. He rivets between the two magnets. The magnets are strong
>enough to hold the 'bucking bar' in place even while the rivet gun is
>'banging away.'
If you pad the magnets with some duct tape, it might help reduce
any scratching (or denting) of the inside of the wing skin surface and ribs.
Bill Dube'
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Oldsfolks(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re:Back riveting wing skins |
I used Avery's 12" back rivet set on my bottom wing skins and on the
fuselage of our RV-4 and a neighbors RV-6A with very good results.
I put masking tape on the shank and drew a red line on each side to enable
me to orient ir properly. I used a flat steel plate ( 1/2" thick ) for a
bucking bar on the outside. When you drive the rivets against a flat plate they
just have to be smooth.
Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X
A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
Charleston,Arkansas
Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DonVS" <dsvs(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re:Back riveting wing skins |
How were you able to do the bottom skins with this setup? Don't the top
skins get in the way? Don
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
Oldsfolks(at)aol.com
Subject: RV-List: Re:Back riveting wing skins
I used Avery's 12" back rivet set on my bottom wing skins and on the
fuselage of our RV-4 and a neighbors RV-6A with very good results.
I put masking tape on the shank and drew a red line on each side to enable
me to orient ir properly. I used a flat steel plate ( 1/2" thick ) for a
bucking bar on the outside. When you drive the rivets against a flat plate
they
just have to be smooth.
Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X
A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
Charleston,Arkansas
Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Air Dam #1 Cyl |
John: I installed air dams in front of # 1 and # 2 cylinders and now have
temperatures balanced to within 10 degrees F on all cylinders except in climb
where # 3 still runs the hottest. My air dams are fabricated from 0.032 sheet
angles that attach with # 8 screws to the baffles ramps and rest against the
cylinder fins. I tried several different heights on both sides. Currently the
one on the # 1 side is about 1 1/4" high (height tapers from the outside down)
and the one in front of # 2 is about 1 3/4" high. Try different heights until
you get the balanced temps you are happy with.
I'm still adjusting mine!
Harry Crosby
RV-6 N16CX, 98 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV4 N3074T Crash |
| From: | WALTER B KERR <jbker(at)juno.com> |
The NTSB preliminary report of theMay 28 crash of this RV4 does not give
much info, but I feel that we should all learn some basic lessons from
this accident.
The pilot left FL37 , Treasure Coast Airpark, to go get fuel at
Indiantown Airport, X58 about 12 miles to the SE. On arrival it is
reported that there were several airplanes in front of him and possibly
the self serve pumps were having a problem.
He departed without fuel and was apparently headed back to FL37 when he
was reported to say over the local 122.9 freq that the engine had
stopped. Someone suggested to him to switch fuel tanks and start the
boost pump. He reported it was running again.
Upon arrival at FL37 it is reported that he did between 2 & 4 touch and
goes and when in a low wide downwind position for 27 the engine started
running ragged and then quit. The position was over a large mature orange
grove and was reported to start a steep bank back to the field when the
prop stopped, ie very low speed to stop prop. The nose fell thru and the
prop restarted windmilling before impact. The pilot suffered severe head
injuries (no buffer on the glare shield) and has been in a coma now for
almost a month. The original report from the hospital said if he came out
of coma within 2 weeks , he would probably fully recover.
I was not at home here at FL37 when this occurred so none of this is
eyewitness reporting, but at least 4 neighbors , all pilots and 2 with
their radios on heard and saw this develop. I think we should all try to
learn from other's accidents and learning from them is the only reason I
post this.
Bernie Kerr, RV9A with 13B rotary 40 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
Has anyone with an Rv-4/6 upgraded their brakes with the Cleveland #199-93 kit
and if so, any problems? were the results (stopping) improved?
Thanks
Ed
Ed Anderson
Rv-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
Matthews, NC
eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Oldsfolks(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re:Back riveting wing skins |
Don;
I only back riveted the bottom shins , you can't do both top & bottom. I
wanted the smoothest on the bottom since the higher pressure area might have
higher drag due to dimples,etc.
Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X
A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
Charleston,Arkansas
Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Back riveting wing skins |
I was very pleased with the results I got on the top skins of my 6A with the Avery
back rivet set. I used a 3X gun because the large mass of that rivet set tends
to reduce the impact of my 2X gun. (As found out in trial work on scrap).
I wraped the end of the Set with duct tape and maked it for proper orientation.
I also was wary about the depth of the end-bore on it so I ground- off some
of it. I used a plastic spacer made of a scrap of house vinyl siding so I could
firm-up the Set against the wing web as I went along. My wife used Avery's
bucking bar for the honors on the opposite side of the wing. -- Worked GREAT!
Henry Hore
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Dube <bdube(at)al.noaa.gov> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6A Crash in Eastern Washington? |
>
>During a telephone interview, the pilot reported that the purpose of
>the flight was to accumulate flight time to satisfy the 40 hour test
>flight requirements for the newly completed aircraft.
A 40 hour fly-off implies an alternative engine. FAA lists the
engine as "reciprocating". More information would be helpful.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ron Lee <ronlee(at)pcisys.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV4 N3074T Crash |
If the assumption is that he ran out of gas....what could anyone learn
from this. It is unfortunate but you cannot teach common sense.
People die as a result of flying and always will. A significant portion
of those deaths are and will be due to pilot error. This also applies to
driving, boating, skiing, hiking, etc.
Ron Lee
At 06:22 AM 6/28/2005, you wrote:
>
>
>The NTSB preliminary report of theMay 28 crash of this RV4 does not give
>much info, but I feel that we should all learn some basic lessons from
>this accident.
>
>The pilot left FL37 , Treasure Coast Airpark, to go get fuel at
>Indiantown Airport, X58 about 12 miles to the SE. On arrival it is
>reported that there were several airplanes in front of him and possibly
>the self serve pumps were having a problem.
>
>He departed without fuel and was apparently headed back to FL37 when he
>was reported to say over the local 122.9 freq that the engine had
>stopped. Someone suggested to him to switch fuel tanks and start the
>boost pump. He reported it was running again.
>
>Upon arrival at FL37 it is reported that he did between 2 & 4 touch and
>goes and when in a low wide downwind position for 27 the engine started
>running ragged and then quit. The position was over a large mature orange
>grove and was reported to start a steep bank back to the field when the
>prop stopped, ie very low speed to stop prop. The nose fell thru and the
>prop restarted windmilling before impact. The pilot suffered severe head
>injuries (no buffer on the glare shield) and has been in a coma now for
>almost a month. The original report from the hospital said if he came out
>of coma within 2 weeks , he would probably fully recover.
>
>I was not at home here at FL37 when this occurred so none of this is
>eyewitness reporting, but at least 4 neighbors , all pilots and 2 with
>their radios on heard and saw this develop. I think we should all try to
>learn from other's accidents and learning from them is the only reason I
>post this.
>
>Bernie Kerr, RV9A with 13B rotary 40 hours
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6A Crash in Eastern Washington? |
Bill Dube wrote:
>
>
>>During a telephone interview, the pilot reported that the purpose of
>>the flight was to accumulate flight time to satisfy the 40 hour test
>>flight requirements for the newly completed aircraft.
>
>
> A 40 hour fly-off implies an alternative engine. FAA lists the
> engine as "reciprocating". More information would be helpful.
The 40-hour fly-off could also imply several other things:
A Lycoming engine without a Lycoming data plate
One of the Lycoming "clones"
A non-certificated prop (the very common Sensinech fixed-pitch metal
prop for the O-360 fits this description)
A Lycoming with a constant-speed prop that wasn't originally certified
with that particular engine
A DAR who doesn't fully understand the regs (sadly, too common)
There are probably other possibilities that don't come immediately to mind.
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-6A Crash in Eastern Washington? |
| From: | "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com> |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com |
| Subject: | Back riveting wing skins |
Avery now sells 12" straight and double offset back riveting sets with the
plastic spring loaded sleeve around the shank. I ordered these but have not
tried them - looks as though they be very useful in some hard to buck
places.
Michele Delsol
RV8 Fuselage
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Brian Denk
> Sent: Monday, June 27, 2005 7:18 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Back riveting wing skins
>
>
> >
> >
> >I'm beginning to rivet the inboard top skins on my -8 wings. I've begun
> the
> >process using the Avery 12" offset back rivet set. Many of the rivets are
> >very slightly clenched. A few have been drilled out twice because I
> wasn't
> >happy with them andthen replaced with NAS1097 (oops) rivets. Obviously
> this
> >isn't a situation I'm happy with.(I've only donetwo ribs so far) Holding
> >the back rivet set absolutely steady and centered is necessary but I'm
> not
> >sure its worth the trouble. Has anyone else has better luck back riveting
> >the wings? I'm also concerned aboutusing too many oops rivets--so far
> only
> >three or four. I like the improved appearance of the back riveted
> surfaces
> >but not at the cost of decreased strength. Techniques? Opinions?
> >
> >
> > --Tom
>
>
> Opinions? HERE?? Nah, it'll never happen. ;)
>
> I tried backriveting on my -8 wings as well and just didn't find the only
> marginally better surface finish to be worth the trauma of using that
> long,
> slightly bent set. One slip and look out, major ding in the skin. We did
> a
> few ribs with this technique then swapped over to conventional riveting
> with
> a swivel set and never looked back. Now, I have had excellent results
> backriveting other stuff on the RV10, especially the tailcone skins, but
> used the shorter set with the plastic spring loaded sleeve around the
> shank.
> Those work great. The two piece aileron/elevator/flap/rudders on the
> modern era kits are ripe candidates for back riveting on the bench top
> with
> this setup. The depth of the wings makes the use of this smaller, more
> controllable set rather difficult. Maybe others have used it to advantage
> but it wasn't my cup 'o tea.
>
> Brian Denk
> RV8 N94BD
> RV10 '51
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com |
| Subject: | Re:Back riveting wing skins |
I did the inboard bottom skins alone the conventional way. It helps to think
things out before starting like start aft and work forward - in the middle
and towards the edges - it also helps to have long skinny arms - no
arthritis. I have not done the outboard skins yet - saving that for much
later on after all electricals and add-ons have been decided upon.
Michele Delsol
RV8 Fuselage
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of DonVS
> Sent: Tuesday, June 28, 2005 5:16 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Re:Back riveting wing skins
>
>
> How were you able to do the bottom skins with this setup? Don't the top
> skins get in the way? Don
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
> Oldsfolks(at)aol.com
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Re:Back riveting wing skins
>
>
>
> I used Avery's 12" back rivet set on my bottom wing skins and on the
> fuselage of our RV-4 and a neighbors RV-6A with very good results.
> I put masking tape on the shank and drew a red line on each side to enable
> me to orient ir properly. I used a flat steel plate ( 1/2" thick ) for
> a
> bucking bar on the outside. When you drive the rivets against a flat
> plate
> they
> just have to be smooth.
>
> Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X
> A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
> Charleston,Arkansas
> Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry2DT(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: transponder check cost |
Pacific Coast Avionics at KUAO just did ours for $70...
Jerry Cochran
Wilsonville, OR
Subject: Re: RV-List: transponder check cost
>Does anyone know approximately what it costs to get a
>transponder checked and properly calibrated?
My guy, Randall Hash out of Bluefield WV charges $175. Make an appointment
and he will meet you at the airport, takes about an hour.
Bob
RV6 NightFighter
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Derrick Aubuchon <n184da(at)volcano.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6A Crash in Eastern Washington? |
Alternative engine,, or more likely, non certified prop.
On Jun 28, 2005, at 8:12 AM, Bill Dube wrote:
>
>
>>
>> During a telephone interview, the pilot reported that the purpose of
>> the flight was to accumulate flight time to satisfy the 40 hour test
>> flight requirements for the newly completed aircraft.
>>
>
> A 40 hour fly-off implies an alternative engine. FAA lists
> the
> engine as "reciprocating". More information would be helpful.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6A Crash in Eastern Washington? |
> If it was consumed by fire he must have had fuel on board. Aluminum doesn't
> burn well by itself. There are a multitude of other reasons that would
> cause power loss. The group can only speculate until the final report comes
> out, and then it may still be speculation.
My impression, based on reading hundreds of NTSB reports, is that if
there are no fatalities, they don't seem to invest as much time
trying to find the cause of a crash. I hope we can learn something
from this crash, and thank goodness there were no fatalities.
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 Canopy
________________________________________________________________________________
Email RV
| From: | Richard Reynolds <rvreynolds(at)macs.net> |
| Subject: | Alternator Belt tension |
In perusing my Lycoming installation drawing for the O-360-A series
(Lycoming Drawing no 04C 63086) the other day, I saw the following note:
Alternator Belt Tension Requirements:
New Belt - mid belt span deflection of .31 (5/16) inches with 14
pounds load
Used Belt - mid belt span deflection of .31 (5/16) inches with 10
pounds load
OR
For a 3/8 inch wide belt:
New Belt - 12 ft-lb to slip the belt at the alternator pulley
Used Belt - 8 ft-lb to slip the belt at the alternator pulley
The torque/slip method seems to be easy to do.
Richard Reynolds
Norfolk, VA
RV-6A flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ron Lee <ronlee(at)pcisys.net> |
| Subject: | Double Eagle NM RV Fly-in, 8-9 Oct 2005 |
0.01 URI_REDIRECTOR Message has HTTP redirector URI
Double Eagle RV Fly-in
8-9 October 2005
Where: Albuquerque NM Double Eagle II airport (KAEG);
<http://www.airnav.com/airport/KAEG>http://www.airnav.com/airport/KAEG
Fly-in principles: No scheduled events. Nice area with a variety of
events to keep spouses happy. The main attraction is the Balloon
Fiesta that ends this weekend. Intended for a quick weekend getaway.
FBO: Bode
Aero:
<http://www.flybode.com/deairport.htm>http://www.flybode.com/deairport.htm
Airport restaurant: Prop Wash Caf=E9, 505-831-2359
Cost: None. No registration fee. Attendees are responsible for hotel
and car reservations.
Miscellaneous: Bring your own tiedown ropes/straps/etc. Please email
ronlee(at)pcisys.net if you intend to come to
ensure that ramp space does not become a problem.
Aviation issues: Note that the Albuquerque airspace is not far from AEG
(to the east). Mountains are nearby. Density altitude can be high so
understand impact to flight (such as engine mixture leaning and higher
take-off and landing groundspeeds)
Hotels: Many in the Albuquerque area. Those listed below were checked
27-28 June 2005. Strongly suggest making reservations as early as possible.
Hotels listed below in three groups based upon distance from airport (AEG)
and the balloon park. This is nowhere near a complete listing. Another
source for making reservations is
here: <http://www.nmtravel.com/bfres/>http://www.nmtravel.com/bfres/ or
888-398-5537 (Press 2 for reservations). Most prices exclude taxes. In
general I tried to price a single bed (usually king) and two adults
Group 1: Reasonably close to the balloon park on the north end of town (I-25)
Comfort Inn, 5811 Signal Ave NE, Albuquerque, NM 87113, (505) 822-1090, $125
Ramada Limited, 5601 Alameda Blvd NE, Albuquerque, NM 87113, (505)
858-3297, $139
Holiday Inn, 5401 Alameda Blvd NE, Albuquerque, NM 87113, (505) 797-2291, Full
Courtyard, 5151 Journal Center Blvd NE, Albuquerque, NM 87109, (505)
823-1919, $169
Albuquerque Pyramid Marriott, 5151 San Francisco Rd NE, Albuquerque,
NM 87109, (505) 821-3333, $189
Amberly Suite Hotel, 7620 N Pan American Fwy NE, Albuquerque, NM 87109,
(505) 823-1300, $59 (Std), $79 (suite)
Howard Johnson Express Inn, 7630 N Pan American Fwy NE, Albuquerque,
NM 87109, (505) 828-1600, $115
Baymont Inns and Suites, 7439 S Pan American Fwy NE, Albuquerque,
NM 87109, (505) 345-7500, $70
Hampton Inn, 5101 Ellison St NE, Albuquerque, NM 87109, (505) 344-1555, $134
Quality Suites, 5251 San Antonio Dr NE, Albuquerque, NM 87109, (505)
797-0850, Full
La Quinta Inn, 5241 San Antonio Dr NE, Albuquerque, NM 87109, (505)
821-9000, $139
Group 2: Rio Rancho area to NW of Balloon Park (6-7 miles)
Days Inn Rio Rancho, 4200 Crestview Dr SE, Rio Rancho, NM 87124, (505)
892-8800, $90
Ramada Limited, 4081 High Resort Blvd SE, Rio Rancho, NM 87124, (505)
892-5998, $100 (limited rooms)
Super 8 Rio Rancho, 4100 Barbara Loop SE, Rio Rancho, NM 87124, (505)
896-8888, $95
Best Western Inn, 1465 Rio Rancho Blvd SE, Rio Rancho, NM 87124, (505)
892-1700, Full
Hilton, 1771 Rio Rancho Blvd SE, Rio Rancho, NM 87124, (505) 896-1111, $129
Marriott, 4100 Sara Rd SE, Rio Rancho, NM 87124
Group 3: 12 miles from the airport (KAEG) (south of I-40 at Exit 153) and
about 13 miles to the Balloon Park near I-25 exit 233 (north part of
Albuquerque)
La Quinta, 6101 Iliff Rd NW, Albuquerque, NM 87121, (505) 839-1744, $140
Holiday Inn Express- West, 6100 Iliff Rd NW, Albuquerque, NM 87121, (505)
836-8600, $120
Super 8, 6030 Iliff Rd NW=92 Albuquerque, NM 87121, (505) 836-5560, $54
Days Inn =96 Albuquerque West, 6031 Iliff Rd NW, Albuquerque, NM 87121, (505)
836-3297, $89-$99
Comfort Inn West, 5712 Iliff Rd NW, Albuquerque, NM 87105, (505) 836-0011,
$115
Red Roof, 6015 Iliff Rd NW, Albuquerque, NM 87121, (505) 831-3400, $70
Rental Cars: Bode Aero uses Enterprise, 505-922-1440, Midsize $43,
Standard $46, Full $49. Make a reservation to ensure car in there when
you arrive. I have not yet checked other rental car agencies.
Things to do:
1) Balloon
Fiesta: <http://www.balloonfiesta.com/>http://www.balloonfiesta.com/
Saturday night has a balloon glow and fireworks with a mass ascension
Sunday morning. Schedule at
<http://www.balloonfiesta.com/scripts/index/list_events_total.php>http://www.balloonfiesta.com/scripts/index/list_events_total.php
2) Sante Fe is close to the
north. <http://www.airnav.com/airport/KSAF>http://www.airnav.com/airport/KSAF
Sante Fe website at <http://www.santafe.org/>http://www.santafe.org/
3) Petroglyph National
Monument: <http://www.nps.gov/petr/>http://www.nps.gov/petr/
4) Hiking in Albuquerque:
<http://www.localhikes.com/MSA/MSA_0200.asp>http://www.localhikes.com/MSA/MSA_0200.asp
http://www.trails.com/advancedfind.asp?keywordAlbuquerque&stateNM&activities&page1
<http://www.cabq.gov/openspace/lands.html>http://www.cabq.gov/openspace/lands.html
5) Sandia Peak Tram: <http://www.sandiapeak.com/>http://www.sandiapeak.com/
Bike rentals to ride down the mountain.
6) Albuquerque Visitors
Website: <http://www.abqcvb.org/>http://www.abqcvb.org/
Note: Balloon Fiesta is a trademark of the Albuquerque International
Balloon Fiesta, Inc
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Double Eagle NM RV Fly-in, 8-9 Oct 2005 |
>
>
> Double Eagle RV Fly-in
> 8-9 October 2005
>
>Where: Albuquerque NM Double Eagle II airport (KAEG);
><http://www.airnav.com/airport/KAEG>http://www.airnav.com/airport/KAEG
>
>Fly-in principles: No scheduled events. Nice area with a variety of
>events to keep spouses happy. The main attraction is the Balloon
>Fiesta that ends this weekend. Intended for a quick weekend getaway.
>
Nice information, Ron. I'm based at AEG and plan to be there...as a "drive
in". Well, I suppose I could go up and fly the pattern to make it official.
:)
For any specific questions or concerns, please let me know direct so as not
to load up the matronics server.
The last weekend of the balloon fiesta is usually pretty nice with hotels
opening up in the area. There are limited facilities at the airport for
food, and the small cafe is limited in capacity. So, ground transport will
be necessary if anyone wants to head east into town for eats and drinks.
Keep this in mind or even pack a lunch for those making a short day trip of
it.
Please be aware of flight restrictions around the balloon fiesta. The local
news choppers and Albuquerque Police helo are usually very active and you do
not want to end up on the evening news! The actual no-fly radius is quite
small so it's easy to go around.
That's all I can think of for now.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
RV10 '51
akroguy(at)hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Cook" <Dugcook(at)cox.net> |
Has anyone installed a full access cowl like the hinged cowls on the Grumman Tiger?
This looks like it would be easy to do and give great access.
Doug - RV-7A Q-build in progress.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jim & terri truitt <jimteri1(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Air Dam # 1 Cylinder |
John, Like many, I had the same problem with #3 being the hottest cylinder and,
in my case, #3 topped 400 degrees pretty fast on a hot day climb-out. At times,
in high ambient temps, I could hardly climb 3000 feet before passing 400
degrees on #3, and have to push the nose over. I have an 8A with an O-360 and
the older style exhaust exit in the cowl. The newer 8 cowls have a larger exhaust
area. This exit area affects your flow out of the cowl. Doesn't matter
how much air goes in up top, if it can't get out at the bottom you have poor
efficiency. It's a little more critical in the A models due to the low mounted
center truss for the nose gear.
Anyway, if you have installed your baffels according to Van's plans, as mine were,
I may have an alternate solution. Van's plans tell you to wrap the baffels
tight around the fins.
Master RV and Rocket Builder Vince Frazier told me that on the rear of #3 cylinder
you have "short" cooling fins on the head (it's true). With the baffel wrapped
tightly around the fins, not enough cooling air can get down and through
the fins. Place 2 washers under the baffel mounting screw to open the baffel
up slightly around the rear of #3.
It doesn't take much. I was skeptical, but it worked very well. #1 cylinder is
still the coolest but #3 is no longer the hottest and it takes a lot longer
to reach 400 degrees on climb-out on a hot day. In addition to doing the above
procedure, I cut my cowl exhaust area back 2 inches to open that area up for
increased flow. My #3 used to run up to 60 -80 degrees hotter than #4 in cruise.
Now #3 and #4 are within 10-12 degrees of each other.
Now #2 is my hottest. Why? Cause the "short" fins are on the front side of #2
cylinder and my baffels are wrapped tight around the front of #2. The temp difference
with #2 is not nearly as critical, but I need to address it like I did
#3.
As Vince pointed out to me, all of the cylinders on Lycomings are the same. One
side of the head has deeper cooling fins than the other. On the right side
of your mounted engine (#1 and 3), the "shorter" fins are on the rear side. On
the left side of the engine, the cylinders face the opposite direction so the
"short" fins are facing forward. That's why if your baffels are tightly wrapped,
# 2 and 3 are your hottest.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Louis Willig <larywil(at)comcast.net> |
Hi gang,
I just removed the exhaust wrap that was applied by the builder of my RV-4,
IO-360. After nearly 500 hours, the wrap had deteriorated and could be torn
off by hand. I never liked the wrap because I always believed that it might
be hiding underlying problems. BUT, now that it's been removed, I realize
how effective it has been. Since there were no problems found after
removal, I think I will replace it. So, does anyone have a suggestion
concerning the best brand(s) to use and what color to use. All suggestions
will be considered. Thanks.
Louis I Willig
1640 Oakwood Dr.
Penn Valley, PA 19072
610 668-4964
RV-4, N180PF
190HP IO-360, C/S prop
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Piavis" <piavis(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Builders on Maui? |
What's the chance of anyone building on Maui? I may have some spare time
during a vacation next week.
Cheers,
Jim
Jim Piavis
-7 Fuse
http://adap.com/rv7
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1(at)comcast.net> |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Doug Cook" <Dugcook(at)cox.net>
Subject: RV-List: Cowl Access
>
> Has anyone installed a full access cowl like the hinged cowls on the
> Grumman Tiger? This looks like it would be easy to do and give great
> access.
> Doug - RV-7A Q-build in progress.
I've never seen or heard of one, and I've been in "the community" for 10
years or so. Why not build it per plans? You can remove the entire top
cowl in under 5 minutes, and replacing it doesn't take any longer. Also,
removing 1/2 the cowl gives you tremendous access to the engine. Beyond
that, I bet it would take 10 years of routine under-cowl inspections to make
up the time it would take to build a hinged cowl...
KB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com> |
Been using the stuff Aircraft Spruce sells since about 50 hours. I leave it
natural in color. I have found that stainless steel hose clamps work best.
Have tried the strap bands sold for the job and safety wire. The hose clamps
do the best job.
I have never wrapped any wield or joint so that these items can be
inspected. When you wrap a join or get a break in the pipe, it will BLOW
through the wrap. I have never had a break in my pipe yet but know on RV-3
with an OLD Toole (spelling) exhaust that did.
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
1,690 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.rvproject.com
----Original Message Follows----
From: Louis Willig <larywil(at)comcast.net>
Subject: RV-List: exhaust wrap
Date: Tue, 28 Jun 2005 20:58:03 -0400
Hi gang,
I just removed the exhaust wrap that was applied by the builder of my RV-4,
IO-360. After nearly 500 hours, the wrap had deteriorated and could be torn
off by hand. I never liked the wrap because I always believed that it might
be hiding underlying problems. BUT, now that it's been removed, I realize
how effective it has been. Since there were no problems found after
removal, I think I will replace it. So, does anyone have a suggestion
concerning the best brand(s) to use and what color to use. All suggestions
will be considered. Thanks.
Louis I Willig
1640 Oakwood Dr.
Penn Valley, PA 19072
610 668-4964
RV-4, N180PF
190HP IO-360, C/S prop
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Beautiful RV-6 for sale |
| From: | Doug Weiler <dcw(at)mnwing.org> |
Fellow Listers:
One of our local RV club members has put his RV-6 up for sale. This is a
very nice aircraft, 180 hp, Sensenich prop, only 330 hours TT.
Details are here at our website:
http://www.mnwing.org/ForSale.htm
Thanks
Doug Weiler
Pres, MN Wing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Orear" <jorear(at)new.rr.com> |
Doug:
Gary Newsted, who was instrumental in developing the installation manual for
the Eggenfellner Subaru conversion package has such a cowl.
This is a link to his website....
http://www.eggenfellneraircraft.com/buildercorner/indexframe.html
There is a picture of his airplane with the cowl open, but unfortunately it
is from the rear. Perhaps if you contact him he might be able to send you
some other pictures.
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A N782P (reserved)
finishing up lots of stuff at the airport
Peshtigo, WI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling2(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6A Crash in Eastern Washington? |
A lycoming with a lycoming data plate but also with non certified starter
and alternator.
Shemp/Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, N915JD
200 hours
Chicago/Louisville
----- Original Message -----
From: "Sam Buchanan" <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-6A Crash in Eastern Washington?
>
> Bill Dube wrote:
>>
>>
>>>During a telephone interview, the pilot reported that the purpose of
>>>the flight was to accumulate flight time to satisfy the 40 hour test
>>>flight requirements for the newly completed aircraft.
>>
>>
>> A 40 hour fly-off implies an alternative engine. FAA lists the
>> engine as "reciprocating". More information would be helpful.
>
>
> The 40-hour fly-off could also imply several other things:
>
> A Lycoming engine without a Lycoming data plate
>
> One of the Lycoming "clones"
>
> A non-certificated prop (the very common Sensinech fixed-pitch metal
> prop for the O-360 fits this description)
>
> A Lycoming with a constant-speed prop that wasn't originally certified
> with that particular engine
>
> A DAR who doesn't fully understand the regs (sadly, too common)
>
> There are probably other possibilities that don't come immediately to
> mind.
>
> Sam Buchanan
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling2(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Beautiful RV-6 for sale |
Very pretty but awfully expensive for a vfr a/c.
Shemp
----- Original Message -----
From: "Doug Weiler" <dcw(at)mnwing.org>
Subject: RV-List: Beautiful RV-6 for sale
>
> Fellow Listers:
>
> One of our local RV club members has put his RV-6 up for sale. This is a
> very nice aircraft, 180 hp, Sensenich prop, only 330 hours TT.
>
> Details are here at our website:
>
> http://www.mnwing.org/ForSale.htm
>
> Thanks
>
> Doug Weiler
> Pres, MN Wing
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Oldsfolks(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re:Back riveting wing skins |
Don;
I installed the bottom skins first so that I could back rivet them.
As I said - I wanted the bottom skins as smooth as possible to forestall
performance loss due to higher pressure on the bottom.
Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X
A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
Charleston,Arkansas
Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bruno <rv4(at)videotron.ca> |
| Subject: | VAN`S TACHOMETER PROBLEMS AGAIN |
Hello All
Today my new Van=92s tachometer quit on me again. Last time I
change the transducer (Good service from Van=92s by the way) but today to be
honest I=92m not really sure what could be the problem. I tried a new gauge
with the same results. Next I=92ll try a new transducer again=85??/ Any
suggestions??
Also what do you guys think of the Electronics International Tachometer that
Van=92s sell?? Are they worth the money? Or do you guys know of any other good
2 =BC size tachometer out there??
Thank you for your time
Bruno Dionne
C-GDBH RV-4
Rv4(at)videotron.ca
P.s# you may respond off list if you wish.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | VAN`S TACHOMETER PROBLEMS AGAIN |
Hi Bruno,
I'm flying behind an EI tach and I like it fine. It's kinda nice to have
both graphical (lights) and digital displays. When you get to redline
RPM, it flashes a red light to get your attention. We've got a magneto
and Lightspeed electronic and the tach is hooked to the mag. When you
turn off the CDI, you can read the drop, but with the mag off, the
display goes blank. I don't know if there's a way around that one. It
keeps track of tach time, but be aware that it is substantially less
than Hobbs time at least on our O-320 and Sensinitch which is redlined
at 2600. YMMV
Pax,
Ed Holyoke
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bruno
Subject: RV-List: VAN`S TACHOMETER PROBLEMS AGAIN
Hello All
Today my new Van=92s tachometer quit on me again. Last
time I
change the transducer (Good service from Van=92s by the way) but today
to be
honest I=92m not really sure what could be the problem. I tried a new
gauge
with the same results. Next I=92ll try a new transducer again=85??/ Any
suggestions??
Also what do you guys think of the Electronics International Tachometer
that
Van=92s sell?? Are they worth the money? Or do you guys know of any
other good
2 =BC size tachometer out there??
Thank you for your time
Bruno Dionne
C-GDBH RV-4
Rv4(at)videotron.ca
P.s# you may respond off list if you wish.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-6A Crash in Eastern Washington? |
In a message dated 6/28/05 8:15:51 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
bdube(at)al.noaa.gov writes:
> A 40 hour fly-off implies an alternative engine. FAA lists the
> engine as "reciprocating". More information would be helpful
>
> Or a non certified propeller. Either one, or both, as well as an
> alternative engine gets a 40 hour test period.
>
>
Harry Crosby
RV-6 N16CX, Certified Lycosaur with Catto prop (40 hour test period).
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: back riveting |
In a message dated 6/29/2005 2:02:13 AM Central Daylight Time,
rv-list-digest(at)matronics.com writes:
From: Oldsfolks(at)aol.com
Subject: RV-List: Re:Back riveting wing skins
Don;
I installed the bottom skins first so that I could back rivet them.
As I said - I wanted the bottom skins as smooth as possible to forestall
performance loss due to higher pressure on the bottom.
Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X
A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
Charleston,Arkansas
Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers
Hmmm..doesn't higher pressure indicate SLOWER flow? Wouldn't it make more
sense to make sure the smoothest skin was where the flow is the fastest??
FWIW, surface 'smoothness' or lack thereof makes very little difference past
about 25% chord anyway.
Carry on!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Any RVers in Italy or Germany? |
| From: | "Clinchy, Dave" <clinchd(at)losrios.edu> |
Are there any RVers out there in northern Italy or southern Germany?
I'll be vacationing in Tuscany Italy and near Bodensee in southern
Germany in the last two weeks of July. I'd like to come visit any RVs in
progress or flying.
Micky - are you out there? What part of Switzerland are you in?
Dave Clinchy
7 finishing... finishing...
Sacramento, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart(at)iss.net> |
Sending this note to the archives for future reference.
If your on the road and your air flow performance electric fuel boost
pump dies, there is a direct replacement available. I was in boneyville
when mine failed and all 3 local parts stores to include Napa, Autozone,
and Advanced Autoparts had one in stock.
Napa delivered right to the field.
It is a Carter fuel pump part number P74015.
Must have some common automotive usage. Thanks to Charlie Kuss who took
my call while I was 3k miles from home.
Lots of you guys are running these. It is the 3rd failure in 1400 hours
for me.
Apparently the filter that comes with the AFP unit is not fine enough
and the pumps get tore up with junk in em. Charlie gave me the part
number for the finer mesh but I cant find it right now. I will put that
in the archives too..
Symptoms before complete failure are:
1. Pump starts to sound sick. Makes a racket and sounds terrible.
2. Pump locks up when you try to engage it and will throw the
breaker. Tapping the pump gets it going again. Like a bad spot on a car
starter. Bang on it to get to move off the bad spot.
I know many of you probably have many more hours on yours, but I do use
mine a lot as I get some vapor over 10k' so my pump stays on there. I
fly in that range a lot so I suspect that I have more pump hours per
engine hours than most.
Best,
Mike
Mike Stewart
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BK <ltwdg(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | WTB: RV-3 kit / partial kit |
I'm still looking for an RV-3 kit or partial kit, with the intent of
purchasing the quickbuild -3 wing from vans.
Anyone?
Thx.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hal Kempthorne <hal_kempthorne(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Beautiful RV-6 for sale |
NO!
It looks as tho all that is needed to make it IFR is a VOR radio - $1500 or so.
Most certainly wrong to call it "awfully expensive".
hal
Jeff Dowling wrote:
Very pretty but awfully expensive for a vfr a/c.
Shemp
----- Original Message -----
From: "Doug Weiler"
Subject: RV-List: Beautiful RV-6 for sale
>
> Fellow Listers:
>
> One of our local RV club members has put his RV-6 up for sale. This is a
> very nice aircraft, 180 hp, Sensenich prop, only 330 hours TT.
>
> Details are here at our website:
>
> http://www.mnwing.org/ForSale.htm
>
> Thanks
>
> Doug Weiler
> Pres, MN Wing
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Darrell Reiley <lifeofreiley2003(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: VAN`S TACHOMETER PROBLEMS AGAIN |
It's heat. We've experienced the same issue twice. A blast tube will solve your
issue... It solved the problem on this end...
Darrell
Bruno wrote:
Hello All
Today my new Van=92s tachometer quit on me again. Last time I
change the transducer (Good service from Van=92s by the way) but today to be
honest I=92m not really sure what could be the problem. I tried a new gauge
with the same results. Next I=92ll try a new transducer again=85??/ Any
suggestions??
Also what do you guys think of the Electronics International Tachometer that
Van=92s sell?? Are they worth the money? Or do you guys know of any other good
2 =BC size tachometer out there??
Thank you for your time
Bruno Dionne
C-GDBH RV-4
Rv4(at)videotron.ca
P.s# you may respond off list if you wish.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DAVID REEL" <dreel(at)cox.net> |
"Pat Donovan" ,
"Marcia Davidson" ,
"Kip Livingston" , "Harry Dutson" ,
"Gilbert Coshland" ,
"George Smith" , "Don Maziarz" ,
"Dick Roe" , "judy Sparks" ,
"Dick Koehler" , "rvlist"
If you know of anyone who has an unused reservation in the university dorms,
please forward this to them.
Dave
----- Original Message -----
From: <JWAllen(at)Bethesda.med.navy.mil>
Subject: Navy to OSH
> Hi Mr. Reel:
> I spoke to you about obtaining a room(s) at OSH for July 26 -28. I'm
in
> the military currently assigned to Philly. When I was I the DC area I was
> aware of your chapter of the EAA and was going to go with the group to
OSH.
> That didn't happen but this year looks like my nephew, an Army LT, my
> daughter and I will be able to go.
>
> Do you know of anyone with a reservation that could transfer it to me?
>
> (215) 897 - 8148 or (302) 478 - 2852.
>
> Thank you for your help.
>
> Jim Allen
>
>
> This document may contain information covered under the Privacy Act, 5 USC
> 552(a), and/or the Health Insurance Portability and Accountability Act (PL
> 104-191) and its various implementing regulations and must be protected in
> accordance with those provisions. Healthcare information is personal and
> sensitive and must be treated accordingly. If this correspondence contains
> healthcare information it is being provided to you after appropriate
> authorization from the patient or under circumstances that don't require
> patient authorization. You, the recipient, are obligated to maintain it in
a
> safe, secure and confidential manner. Redisclosure without additional
> patient consent or as permitted by law is prohibited. Unauthorized
> redisclosure or failure to maintain confidentiality subjects you to
> application of appropriate sanction. If you have received this
> correspondence in error, please notify the sender at once and destroy any
> copies you have made.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bradley Kidder <sparksnmagic(at)usa.net> |
| Subject: | F O R S A L E - RV-6 Empennage Kit |
Z-USANET-MsgId: XID162JFCR7P0006X31
1.34 GAPPY_SUBJECT Subject: contains G.a.p.p.y-T.e.x.t
For Sale:
Pre-drilled RV-6/6A empennage kit. Includes construction manual, preview
plans, and optional electric trim kit.
Some riveting done, perhaps 15%.
Asking price is $950 (paid $1435 7/98).
Absolutely undamaged and safely stored.
Located in Fort Smith, Arkansas.
Pictures available.
><((((=BA>`=B7.=B8=B8.=B7=B4=AF`=B7.=B8.=B7=B4=AF`=B7...=B8><((((=BA>
=B7=B4=AF`=B7.=B8.=B7=B4=AF`=B7.=B8.=B7=B4=AF`=B7.. ><((((=BA>`=B7.=B8=B8.=B7=B4=AF`=B7.=B8.=B7=B4=AF`=B7...=B8><((((=BA>
Brad Kidder .=B7=B4=AF`=B7...=B8><((((=BA>
N188FW AA-1 #124 "Hawg One"
AOPA (ASN/KSLG) - EAA - Angel Flight
.=B7=B4=AF`=B7.. ><((((=BA>
. , . .=B7=B4=AF`=B7.=B8.=B7=B4=AF`=B7.=B8.=B7=B4=AF`=B7.. ><((((=BA>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Exhaust wrap |
Here is the con of the Exhaust wrap as I understand it. I asked a two manufactures
of custom aircraft aircraft exhaust and was warned not to use wrap. Apparently
the exhaust pipe is put under more stress (thermal) and leads to early failure.
Also wrap can collect oil and cause a fire. Apparently it is not an uncommon
problem. Wrap at your own risk. I like the idea, but if it increases the
fire danger or chance of an exhaust crack, I will pass for now.
The other scheme to reduce heat under the cowl is ceramic coatings. I was told
flat out buy one exhaust manufacture that he would not warranty my exhaust with
ceramic. Again more likely to crack.
It make sense. If you keep the exhaust super heated and unable to cool it may fail
earlier. As far as ceramics there may be a whole different mechanism in causing
cracks in exhaust pipes.Any technical data or experience with wrap. I am
only going on what the people who make stainless steel exhaust say. Is thick
walled mild steel better with wraps or coatings?
Cheers George
From: "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com> Subject: exhaust wrap
Been using the stuff Aircraft Spruce sells since about 50 hours. I leave
it
natural in color. I have found that stainless steel hose clamps work best.
Have tried the strap bands sold for the job and safety wire. The hose clamps
do the best job.
I have never wrapped any wield or joint so that these items can be
inspected. When you wrap a join or get a break in the pipe, it will BLOW
through the wrap. I have never had a break in my pipe yet but know on RV-3
with an OLD Toole (spelling) exhaust that did.
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
1,690 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.rvproject.com
----Original Message Follows----
From: Louis Willig <larywil(at)comcast.net>
Subject: RV-List: exhaust wrap
Hi gang,
I just removed the exhaust wrap that was applied by the builder of my RV-4,
IO-360. After nearly 500 hours, the wrap had deteriorated and could be torn
off by hand. I never liked the wrap because I always believed that it might
be hiding underlying problems. BUT, now that it's been removed, I realize
how effective it has been. Since there were no problems found after
removal, I think I will replace it. So, does anyone have a suggestion
concerning the best brand(s) to use and what color to use. All suggestions
will be considered. Thanks.
Louis I Willig
1640 Oakwood Dr.
Penn Valley, PA 19072
610 668-4964
RV-4, N180PF
190HP IO-360, C/S prop
---------------------------------
Find restaurants, movies, travel & more fun for the weekend. Check it out!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John" <jtb1(at)prodigy.net> |
| Subject: | RV8 Jig Give Away |
I have a very nice sturdy Jig for building an RV8 that i am finished with. This
jig has built three RV8-A's so far. If you can use it come and get it. It is
located in Graniteville,SC just North of I-20 and about 50 miles West of Columbia,SC
and about 30 miles East of Augusta, GA. I need the room in my hangar so
if no one claimes it I will scrap it.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fire (was - high temp silicone sealants and carb airbox sealants) |
>From: "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier(at)usi.edu>
>Subject: high temp silicone sealants and carb airbox sealants
>Date: Dec 08, 1999
>I don't use teflon tape either for similar reasons. I am amazed at how many
>people put this crap in places it is not meant to be. I've seen it on flare
>fittings, hose barbs (yikes, what were they thinking?) and countless other
>places it's not supposed to go.
That is why it is called amateur build aircraft.
>If you do have a fire it won't matter if it burns up the ProSeal first anyway.
Besides by the >time it burns through the proseal it will soon be burning through
the aluminum floorboards. >Perhaps a nicely fitted stainless firewall with
a stainless exhaust shield mounted 1/4" under >the floorboards, on the outside,
would be good. Would keep some exhaust heat off your feet >too!
>Vince in Indiana
>Flame me if you want..I've got my fire barrier ready!
Did you think about your fiberglass cowl burning a foot or two away from your Plexiglas
windscreen. My I suggest a parachute or Nomex suite and smoke hood. Fire
is serious and any thing you can do to seal and protect is great, but in light
aircraft structure there is only so much you can do. Next would be fire detection
system and fire protection (in flight fire extinguishers). My point
is there is nothing that will completely protect us and I wear a chute. True story.
A Friend of a friend went flying in the pattern and left the chute in the
hanger. On down wind he had a massive fuel feed engine fire. By the time he
got it on the ground and out of the plane he was badly burned. Yes in level flight
1000 feet is more than enough to get out. A chute must fully open in 2-3
seconds, or about 300 feet in this horizontal flight path bailout scenario. Bottom
line spend 100 times more effort in preventing and protecting from any chance
of fuel, oil or exhaust fires than sealing. Sea
ling
good, but no fire is best altogether.
Cheers George
---------------------------------
Rekindle the Rivalries. Sign up for Fantasy Football
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ron Lee <ronlee(at)pcisys.net> |
| Subject: | VAN`S TACHOMETER PROBLEMS AGAIN |
> We've got a magneto
>and Lightspeed electronic and the tach is hooked to the mag. When you
>turn off the CDI, you can read the drop, but with the mag off, the
>display goes blank. I don't know if there's a way around that one.
I have the same issue and when I checked with Klaus there is not. However,
since the RPM is essentially the same with all ignition sources on and
with just EI on (mag off) (I can hear it close enough), I just don't worry
about it.
Ron Lee
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Exhaust wrap |
| From: | "BPA" <BPA(at)bpaengines.com> |
Hi George,
I've been following this exhaust wrap debate all morning and decided I
would get a word in. Now, I am not an expert on exhaust systems, my
specialty lies in the building of high performance Lycoming engines
(certified also), but I have on more than one occasion eye witnessed two
different engines being tested on dynamometer using the ceramic coated
exhaust systems. One engine, a TSIO-520 running on a test cell at
another engine shop down from ours and a High Performance highly
modified IO-540 300 HP engine on our own dyno. On both occasions, the
mild steel pipes were ceramic coated inside and out. I could literally
hold my hand within 1 inch of the pipes before I could feel any radiant
heat from the pipes, and this was at full power. The shop responsible
for these systems is Forsling Aviation in Co. We are working on some
stuff for the RV-10 together, and doing some different testing with
different types of exhaust packages. If you would like to talk with
them, I would be more than happy to pass his number along.
Regards,
Allen Barrett
Barrett Precision Engines, Inc.
www.barrettprecisionengines.com
(918) 835-1089 phone
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com
Subject: RV-List: Re: Exhaust wrap
Here is the con of the Exhaust wrap as I understand it. I asked a two
manufactures of custom aircraft aircraft exhaust and was warned not to
use wrap. Apparently the exhaust pipe is put under more stress (thermal)
and leads to early failure. Also wrap can collect oil and cause a fire.
Apparently it is not an uncommon problem. Wrap at your own risk. I like
the idea, but if it increases the fire danger or chance of an exhaust
crack, I will pass for now.
The other scheme to reduce heat under the cowl is ceramic coatings. I
was told flat out buy one exhaust manufacture that he would not warranty
my exhaust with ceramic. Again more likely to crack.
It make sense. If you keep the exhaust super heated and unable to cool
it may fail earlier. As far as ceramics there may be a whole different
mechanism in causing cracks in exhaust pipes.Any technical data or
experience with wrap. I am only going on what the people who make
stainless steel exhaust say. Is thick walled mild steel better with
wraps or coatings?
Cheers George
From: "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com> Subject: exhaust wrap
Been using the stuff Aircraft Spruce sells since about 50 hours.
I leave it
natural in color. I have found that stainless steel hose clamps
work best.
Have tried the strap bands sold for the job and safety wire. The
hose clamps
do the best job.
I have never wrapped any wield or joint so that these items can be
inspected. When you wrap a join or get a break in the pipe, it
will BLOW
through the wrap. I have never had a break in my pipe yet but know
on RV-3
with an OLD Toole (spelling) exhaust that did.
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
1,690 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.rvproject.com
----Original Message Follows----
From: Louis Willig <larywil(at)comcast.net>
Subject: RV-List: exhaust wrap
Hi gang,
I just removed the exhaust wrap that was applied by the builder of
my RV-4,
IO-360. After nearly 500 hours, the wrap had deteriorated and
could be torn
off by hand. I never liked the wrap because I always believed that
it might
be hiding underlying problems. BUT, now that it's been removed,
I realize
how effective it has been. Since there were no problems found
after
removal, I think I will replace it. So, does anyone have a
suggestion
concerning the best brand(s) to use and what color to use. All
suggestions
will be considered. Thanks.
Louis I Willig
1640 Oakwood Dr.
Penn Valley, PA 19072
610 668-4964
RV-4, N180PF
190HP IO-360, C/S prop
---------------------------------
Find restaurants, movies, travel & more fun for the weekend. Check it
out!
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: F O R S A L E - RV-6 Empennage Kit |
In a message dated 6/29/05 11:09:44 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
sparksnmagic(at)usa.net writes:
<< For Sale:
Pre-drilled RV-6/6A empennage kit. Includes construction manual, preview
plans, and optional electric trim kit.
Some riveting done, perhaps 15%.
Asking price is $950 (paid $1435 7/98).
Absolutely undamaged and safely stored.
Located in Fort Smith, Arkansas.
Pictures available.
>>
is this the counter balance rudder or the original shorter unbalanced rudder.
Bob Gorman/CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | VAN`S TACHOMETER PROBLEMS AGAIN |
Yeah, I'm with you - I don't worry about the mag drop. You usually can't
detect any. However, I'm currently having problems with my Lightspeed
and when I turn off the mag, it wants to quit almost. Found a coil out
of spec and replaced both but it didn't get better. I'm in the process
of checking the trigger bolt gap (what a joy). If that doesn't help, I'm
not sure what else to do. I'd have to pull the prop to replace the
trigger coils and I don't wanna.
Pax,
Ed Holyoke
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ron Lee
Subject: RE: RV-List: VAN`S TACHOMETER PROBLEMS AGAIN
> We've got a magneto
>and Lightspeed electronic and the tach is hooked to the mag. When you
>turn off the CDI, you can read the drop, but with the mag off, the
>display goes blank. I don't know if there's a way around that one.
I have the same issue and when I checked with Klaus there is not.
However,
since the RPM is essentially the same with all ignition sources on and
with just EI on (mag off) (I can hear it close enough), I just don't
worry
about it.
Ron Lee
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Darrell Reiley <lifeofreiley2003(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: VAN`S TACHOMETER PROBLEMS AGAIN |
A blast tube to the transducer...
Darrell
Bruno wrote:
Hello All
Today my new Van=92s tachometer quit on me again. Last time I
change the transducer (Good service from Van=92s by the way) but today to be
honest I=92m not really sure what could be the problem. I tried a new gauge
with the same results. Next I=92ll try a new transducer again=85??/ Any
suggestions??
Also what do you guys think of the Electronics International Tachometer that
Van=92s sell?? Are they worth the money? Or do you guys know of any other good
2 =BC size tachometer out there??
Thank you for your time
Bruno Dionne
C-GDBH RV-4
Rv4(at)videotron.ca
P.s# you may respond off list if you wish.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bill shook <billshook2000(at)yahoo.com> |
On the subject of exhaust wrapping I will give this warning. IF you get an oil
leak and
it soaks the wrap...take it off, take it all off. Otherwise the oil stays in the
wrap,
the exhaust heats it up..and it catches on fire. Exactly that happened on my race
car
anyway and the oil leak was so slight it wasn't noticed. Came out from under the
cam
cover gasket, ran onto the exhaust and slowly soaked the exhaust. Never even noticed
it..till it caught on fire. Just a word of warning.
Bill
-4 wings
--- RV6 Flyer wrote:
>
> Been using the stuff Aircraft Spruce sells since about 50 hours. I leave it
> natural in color. I have found that stainless steel hose clamps work best.
> Have tried the strap bands sold for the job and safety wire. The hose clamps
> do the best job.
>
> I have never wrapped any wield or joint so that these items can be
> inspected. When you wrap a join or get a break in the pipe, it will BLOW
> through the wrap. I have never had a break in my pipe yet but know on RV-3
> with an OLD Toole (spelling) exhaust that did.
>
> Gary A. Sobek
> "My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
> 1,690 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA
> http://SoCAL_WVAF.rvproject.com
>
>
> ----Original Message Follows----
> From: Louis Willig <larywil(at)comcast.net>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: exhaust wrap
> Date: Tue, 28 Jun 2005 20:58:03 -0400
>
>
> Hi gang,
>
>
> I just removed the exhaust wrap that was applied by the builder of my RV-4,
> IO-360. After nearly 500 hours, the wrap had deteriorated and could be torn
> off by hand. I never liked the wrap because I always believed that it might
> be hiding underlying problems. BUT, now that it's been removed, I realize
> how effective it has been. Since there were no problems found after
> removal, I think I will replace it. So, does anyone have a suggestion
> concerning the best brand(s) to use and what color to use. All suggestions
> will be considered. Thanks.
>
>
> Louis I Willig
> 1640 Oakwood Dr.
> Penn Valley, PA 19072
> 610 668-4964
> RV-4, N180PF
> 190HP IO-360, C/S prop
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Darwin N. Barrie" <ktlkrn(at)cox.net> |
Somewhere in the maze of information I have read about mounting the cowl slightly
lower than the spinner backplate to compensate for the engine sag.
I am going to start the cowl mounting tonight and would like some info from those
who have "been there, done that."
DArwin N. Barrie
P19
Cowl/baffling/wiring completion
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cowl mounting |
Check the archives. Lots of information there, some conflicting...
I think I left my prop/spinner about 3/16 high, and it settled more or less
in-line after a few hours and has remained there since. (300 and something
hours).
KB
----- Original Message -----
From: "Darwin N. Barrie" <ktlkrn(at)cox.net>
Subject: RV-List: Cowl mounting
>
> Somewhere in the maze of information I have read about mounting the cowl
> slightly lower than the spinner backplate to compensate for the engine
> sag.
>
> I am going to start the cowl mounting tonight and would like some info
> from those who have "been there, done that."
>
> DArwin N. Barrie
> P19
> Cowl/baffling/wiring completion
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaztuna(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Re: AFP boost pump |
Mike
The 25 micron ( 0.001") filter element for the Flow Ezy Model 6 ILA
filter (as supplied by AFP and Vans) is part number 8504-05. Price on Flow
Ezy's web site shows a price of $40.20 This is a direct replacement for
the stock 174 micron element. FYI Bendix mandates a filter element of no
more coarse than 74 microns.
You can find the 6 ILA filter here. It's the 8th item from the top of the page.
http://198.170.245.162/flowezypagehydraulicfilters.html#HIGHPRESSUREIN-LINEFILTER
Charlie Kuss
PS George Meketa was the one who first turned me onto this info.
>
>
>Sending this note to the archives for future reference.
>
>If your on the road and your air flow performance electric fuel boost
>pump dies, there is a direct replacement available. I was in boneyville
>when mine failed and all 3 local parts stores to include Napa, Autozone,
>and Advanced Autoparts had one in stock.
>
>Napa delivered right to the field.
>
>It is a Carter fuel pump part number P74015.
>
>Must have some common automotive usage. Thanks to Charlie Kuss who took
>my call while I was 3k miles from home.
>
>Lots of you guys are running these. It is the 3rd failure in 1400 hours
>for me.
>
>Apparently the filter that comes with the AFP unit is not fine enough
>and the pumps get tore up with junk in em. Charlie gave me the part
>number for the finer mesh but I cant find it right now. I will put that
>in the archives too..
>
>Symptoms before complete failure are:
>
>1. Pump starts to sound sick. Makes a racket and sounds terrible.
>2. Pump locks up when you try to engage it and will throw the
>breaker. Tapping the pump gets it going again. Like a bad spot on a car
>starter. Bang on it to get to move off the bad spot.
>
>
>I know many of you probably have many more hours on yours, but I do use
>mine a lot as I get some vapor over 10k' so my pump stays on there. I
>fly in that range a lot so I suspect that I have more pump hours per
>engine hours than most.
>
>
>Best,
>
>Mike
>
>
>Mike Stewart
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming(at)sigecom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cowl mounting |
You are right about allowing about 3/16" for the engine sag.
Mounting the cowling is well documented. Basically you want to get the
known prop location set first. Then gap the cowling back from that. That
is the important thing to do. Also, get the cowling centered carefully on
the fuselage. If you don't you will know later why it is important. Then
clamp it down to the prop or its hub so it will not move around. Start
marking it up and cutting it to make a perfect fit. One of the builders has
an excellent way of gapping the cowling back from the prop using cut off
pieces of plastic pipe rather than having to actually mount the prop. I
found it once, and I am sure you can too. It works perfectly. Take your
time on the cowling fitting and it will pay dividends down the road.
Indiana Larry, RV7 Tip Up It Flies Phase 1 testing done. Where to fly
outside the box? Bobby Hester are you there?
>
> Somewhere in the maze of information I have read about mounting the cowl
> slightly lower than the spinner backplate to compensate for the engine
> sag.
>
> I am going to start the cowl mounting tonight and would like some info
> from those who have "been there, done that."
>
> DArwin N. Barrie
> P19
> Cowl/baffling/wiring completion
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cowl mounting |
LarryRobertHelming wrote:
>
> You are right about allowing about 3/16" for the engine sag.
>
> Mounting the cowling is well documented. Basically you want to get the
> known prop location set first. Then gap the cowling back from that. That
> is the important thing to do. Also, get the cowling centered carefully on
> the fuselage. If you don't you will know later why it is important. Then
> clamp it down to the prop or its hub so it will not move around. Start
> marking it up and cutting it to make a perfect fit. One of the builders has
> an excellent way of gapping the cowling back from the prop using cut off
> pieces of plastic pipe rather than having to actually mount the prop. I
> found it once, and I am sure you can too. It works perfectly. Take your
> time on the cowling fitting and it will pay dividends down the road.
There are probably several places you can now find info about using the
PVC spacers, but here is a page with a photo of the spacers in use on my
project (scroll 1/2 way down the page):
http://thervjournal.com/engine2.html
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Greg Grigson <iflyhawaii2(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | My RV-6A Project in Honolulu is Finished! |
Gang,
Today at approximately 3:30pm HST I drove the last #6
screw on the right wing tip. FINISHED!!
Eight years of blood, sweat, and tears and the project
is a plane. Working for a mid-July FAA sign-off and
first flight.
Thanks to Vans
Thanks to the RV List
Thanks to the EAA
Aloha.
Greg Grigson (:>
Honolulu International Airport #416
N-79PT
Rekindle the Rivalries. Sign up for Fantasy Football
http://football.fantasysports.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gordon or Marge Comfort" <gcomfo(at)tc3net.com> |
| Subject: | VAN`S TACHOMETER PROBLEMS AGAIN |
Bruno wrote:
Hello All
Also what do you guys think of the Electronics International Tachometer
that Van=92s sell?? Are they worth the money? Or do you guys know of any
other good 2 =BC size tachometer out there??
Bruno: If you are running mags, take a look at the Horizon digital
tach. It counts the pulses on each mag, compares them continuosly,
alerts you to major discrepancies, presents the drop for each mag when
testing, indicates if you have a failed mag, keeps a record of hours,
notes overspeeds and more. It is rather costly. In my experience it is
dead nuts reliable, does not need a transducer and the display is easy
to read. I do not miss the analog display at all.
Gordon Comfort
N363GC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bruno <rv4(at)videotron.ca> |
| Subject: | VAN'S TACHOMETER |
Hello Ed
Thanks for the reply.
Well, not having the exact time on the tach is not a major factor
for me as I have a hobb's meter already installed but I'm glad to know that
you like your E.I. Tachometer.
There must be a way to connect it so it can read of the mag and the
electronic ignition. I'll send an e-mail to EI to see what they have to say
on this and also to Klaus Savier to see if he knows a way around that.
Cheers
Bruno
From: "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List: VAN`S TACHOMETER PROBLEMS AGAIN
Hi Bruno,
I'm flying behind an EI tach and I like it fine. It's kinda nice to have
both graphical (lights) and digital displays. When you get to redline
RPM, it flashes a red light to get your attention. We've got a magneto
and Lightspeed electronic and the tach is hooked to the mag. When you
turn off the CDI, you can read the drop, but with the mag off, the
display goes blank. I don't know if there's a way around that one. It
keeps track of tach time, but be aware that it is substantially less
than Hobbs time at least on our O-320 and Sensinitch which is redlined
at 2600. YMMV
Pax,
Ed Holyoke
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com> |
The instructions for fitting the cowl without a prop are on Van's website.
That's the way I did it, and any problems I had were not due to the method
but the builder.
Terry
RV-8A finishing
Seattle
One of the builders has
an excellent way of gapping the cowling back from the prop using cut off
pieces of plastic pipe rather than having to actually mount the prop. I
found it once, and I am sure you can too. It works perfectly. Take your
time on the cowling fitting and it will pay dividends down the road.
Indiana Larry, RV7 Tip Up It Flies Phase 1 testing done. Where to fly
outside the box? Bobby Hester are you there?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RobHickman(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6A Crash in Eastern Washington? |
It was an NSI Subaru...
Rob Hickman
RV-4 N401RH
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.edu> |
"'owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com '"(at)roxy.matronics.com
| Subject: | Trio Avionics Altitude Hold Report |
Folks,
I have been doing some alpha and beta testing for the dynamic trio at Trio
Avionics with their new altitude hold.
This unit seems to be very nice, doing much the same as the AltTrac, but
with many more feedback and control options.
One really nice feature it has the ability to rotate an encoder knob and
change the altitude by about 5' per click.
The LCD display is also the engage button and provides various data such as
"ready", "alt hold", "alt adj up","alt adj dwn", "first floor - bluelight
special", etc.
The unit has some safety features that are stunning. It will kick out the
servo and give you an aural and visual alarm if you exceed servo travel,
clutch slip for more than a few seconds, 1 g either way (ie +2 or 0) and in
the plans for model 2 with VS capacity it will monitor airspeed and will
warn you and then kick out if min or max AS is exceeded.
The VS models will have VS mode and travel to altitude mode eventually.
After some time playing with trim filters it seems to be dialed in for the
RVs. As such it will drop about 30 ft going into a 30 deg bank turn then
regain that quickly and stabilize through the rest of the turn, with almost
no rise coming out of the turn. This is equal to the AlTrac's performance.
As well the engage overshoot is very nicely limited, but this will vary
depending on rate of VS at the time of engaging. The dampening is usually
within one cycle unless its bumpy outside. I haven't yet flown it in really
rough conditions, but in moderate conditions, like the AlTrac, it seems to
hang in there in keeping things well within +- 20ft.
This is a little tough to tell in the RV6s with small tails as they tend to
wiggle wag away the bump energy a lot.
If you are out of trim it will tell you two ways, one the display will tell
you "adj trm up" or "dn", and two, if its out enough, it will start acting
noticeably more abrupt as it corrects. Nothing scary, but it does let you
know its time to look at it and adjust. Instead of a smooth correction that
you don't really notice, it makes a correction that you notice as a positive
input change.
In the future models the design goal will be to have it be able to
automatically adjust trim if you have the electric servo type.
The clutch slip is identical to the clutch slip felt in the Navaid.
Servo mounting looks to be just aft of the midship pitch bellcrank, and they
are working on supplying a predrilled mount tray for this. The bonus here is
about 2 lbs as this servo weighs a lot less than the Trutrac servos.
All in all, I have flown several manufacturer's products, and this one has
the most features for about the same price. The rotary encoder that can set
altitude adjustments while engaged is way cool. I may wear that puppy out
playing with it on approaches. This knob will also be used to adjust things
like VS, briteness, contrast, gain, etc.
My only whine is that the rotary encoder and the LCD display switch won't
both fit into one 2.25 inst bezel. But, according to the guru, its really
hard to fit that much magic into such a little space.
Speaking of magic, the system comes with four magic components, the rotary
encoder, the LCD display/switch, the queen bee brain, which has ports for
static and eventually pitot, and a very newly designed servo. This servo has
some exterior similarities to the old navaid type, but the magic inside is
completely different. As these things talk to each other they are constantly
testing each other. If they suspect bad mojo the system kicks out an error
and you get the alarms and pitch control back in your lap.
The aural alarm is a feature they just worked out so that it will feed into
the audio panel if desired. This is very nice and loud as it will wake you
up if you are getting control tossed back at you.
I have suggested several features, one - that when you change lanes onto a
new victor airway that it have a speed bump simulation feature, another -
autoland, a third - autotaxi, but I'm thinking they aren't going to put
these high on their priority lists. In fact it is not their goal to replace
the pilot, and in fact they are not recommending this to be an IFR tool in
spite of what you may use it for.
I will get worried though when it starts refering to itself as HAL, and you
as DAVE. If you notice this feature I would suggest that you cut the wires
to your ejection seat and any airlocks you may have installed.
Not sure when they are going to market with it, but it should be sometime
soon. I know they will be at the NWEAA flyin in AWO next week with a cool
demo board. As well, WX permitting, I'll be there, as well as at OSH for any
looky loos who want to drool.
Otherwise try www.trioavionics.com
W aka - not employed in any way by anybody other than Governor Arnie.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)earthlink.net> |
>
> You are right about allowing about 3/16" for the engine sag.
>
Not always the case - I have 633 hours in four years with no measurable sag.
Alex Peterson
RV6A N66AP
Maple Grove, MN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Nigel Goad <sirlegin(at)sbcglobal.net> |
My quickbuild fuselage and wings have arrived, I need a rough idea as to the amount
of working hours until the wings are final attached so I can sort out timing
for hangar rental.
Any suggestions welcome.
Thanks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com |
| Subject: | Re: Exhaust wrap |
Just my 02$'s worth - If you put a heat barrier on the outside of the
exhaust pipe, the metal will run hotter than not putting a heat barrier
since the heat barrier prevents radiation and convection cooling. This is a
good case against wrapping.
If you put a heat barrier on the inside of the pipe, i.e. ceramic coat the
inside, then the hot gases will have a harder time transferring heat to the
metal - hence the pipe will run cooler. This would plead in favor of ceramic
coating the inside, not the outside because if you do, you are offsetting
the pipe's ability to cool down.
Only case against ceramic coating the inside would be metallurgical factors
- does the ceramic coating process introduce elements into the metal which
weaken it in some way?
As to holding your hand near a ceramic coated pipe inside an out to witness
the fact that it is running cool - this is not necessarily good. You are
witnessing the fact that heat is not getting out due to the external ceramic
coating. In fact, the metal just behind the ceramic coat could be very hot,
hotter than without the ceramic coat.
Having said the above, additional weight could be an issue.
That's it - if anyone would care to comment?
Michele Delsol
RV8 - Fuselage
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of BPA
> Sent: Wednesday, June 29, 2005 9:26 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: Exhaust wrap
>
>
> Hi George,
>
> I've been following this exhaust wrap debate all morning and decided I
> would get a word in. Now, I am not an expert on exhaust systems, my
> specialty lies in the building of high performance Lycoming engines
> (certified also), but I have on more than one occasion eye witnessed two
> different engines being tested on dynamometer using the ceramic coated
> exhaust systems. One engine, a TSIO-520 running on a test cell at
> another engine shop down from ours and a High Performance highly
> modified IO-540 300 HP engine on our own dyno. On both occasions, the
> mild steel pipes were ceramic coated inside and out. I could literally
> hold my hand within 1 inch of the pipes before I could feel any radiant
> heat from the pipes, and this was at full power. The shop responsible
> for these systems is Forsling Aviation in Co. We are working on some
> stuff for the RV-10 together, and doing some different testing with
> different types of exhaust packages. If you would like to talk with
> them, I would be more than happy to pass his number along.
>
> Regards,
>
> Allen Barrett
> Barrett Precision Engines, Inc.
> www.barrettprecisionengines.com
> (918) 835-1089 phone
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Re: Exhaust wrap
>
>
> Here is the con of the Exhaust wrap as I understand it. I asked a two
> manufactures of custom aircraft aircraft exhaust and was warned not to
> use wrap. Apparently the exhaust pipe is put under more stress (thermal)
> and leads to early failure. Also wrap can collect oil and cause a fire.
> Apparently it is not an uncommon problem. Wrap at your own risk. I like
> the idea, but if it increases the fire danger or chance of an exhaust
> crack, I will pass for now.
>
> The other scheme to reduce heat under the cowl is ceramic coatings. I
> was told flat out buy one exhaust manufacture that he would not warranty
> my exhaust with ceramic. Again more likely to crack.
>
> It make sense. If you keep the exhaust super heated and unable to cool
> it may fail earlier. As far as ceramics there may be a whole different
> mechanism in causing cracks in exhaust pipes.Any technical data or
> experience with wrap. I am only going on what the people who make
> stainless steel exhaust say. Is thick walled mild steel better with
> wraps or coatings?
>
> Cheers George
>
>
> From: "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com> Subject: exhaust wrap
>
> Been using the stuff Aircraft Spruce sells since about 50 hours.
> I leave it
> natural in color. I have found that stainless steel hose clamps
> work best.
> Have tried the strap bands sold for the job and safety wire. The
> hose clamps
> do the best job.
>
> I have never wrapped any wield or joint so that these items can be
>
> inspected. When you wrap a join or get a break in the pipe, it
> will BLOW
> through the wrap. I have never had a break in my pipe yet but know
> on RV-3
> with an OLD Toole (spelling) exhaust that did.
>
> Gary A. Sobek
> "My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
> 1,690 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA
> http://SoCAL_WVAF.rvproject.com
>
>
> ----Original Message Follows----
> From: Louis Willig <larywil(at)comcast.net>
> Subject: RV-List: exhaust wrap
>
>
> Hi gang,
>
>
> I just removed the exhaust wrap that was applied by the builder of
> my RV-4,
> IO-360. After nearly 500 hours, the wrap had deteriorated and
> could be torn
> off by hand. I never liked the wrap because I always believed that
> it might
> be hiding underlying problems. BUT, now that it's been removed,
> I realize
> how effective it has been. Since there were no problems found
> after
> removal, I think I will replace it. So, does anyone have a
> suggestion
> concerning the best brand(s) to use and what color to use. All
> suggestions
> will be considered. Thanks.
>
>
> Louis I Willig
> 1640 Oakwood Dr.
> Penn Valley, PA 19072
> 610 668-4964
> RV-4, N180PF
> 190HP IO-360, C/S prop
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Find restaurants, movies, travel & more fun for the weekend. Check it
> out!
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LML Klingmuller" <l_klingmuller(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | New transponder certification - check |
I heard that the FAA is planing to change the requirenments for our transponder
biannnual test & inspection. Does anybody know any details?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch> |
| Subject: | Re: Exhaust wrap |
> ...
> That's it - if anyone would care to comment?
Yes - Does anyone know if there are companies that
do ceramic coating in Europe? I've found lots in
the US, and one in the UK. The auto shops I've
contacted in my area have never even heard of this
process.
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch> |
| Subject: | Re: Hangar Rental |
Hi Nigel,
Where I live hangers are very hard to find, and they are all
shared hangers. So, I'll be doing *everything* before I
bring mine to the airport. I've put the wings on once
to fit everything, and then removed them. My workshop
is big enough to put the wings on and leave them on, but
for convenience sake I'm leaving them off. I personally
believe that your productivity will be much higher
at home than in a hanger.
If you really want an hour number, I'd say about 1000.
Best regards,
Mickey
Nigel Goad wrote:
>
> My quickbuild fuselage and wings have arrived, I need a rough idea as
> to the amount of working hours until the wings are final attached so
> I can sort out timing for hangar rental. Any suggestions welcome.
> Thanks
>
>
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Exhaust wrap |
| From: | "BPA" <BPA(at)bpaengines.com> |
But, if the pipe is coated on both inside and outside surfaces, and you
can hold your hand that close to the pipe on the outside without having
to go see a burn specialist, where is the heat on the inside going?
Seems to me (again I'm no expert here) that the heat is being carried
out the end of the pipe.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]
Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: Exhaust wrap
Just my 02$'s worth - If you put a heat barrier on the outside of the
exhaust pipe, the metal will run hotter than not putting a heat barrier
since the heat barrier prevents radiation and convection cooling. This
is a
good case against wrapping.
If you put a heat barrier on the inside of the pipe, i.e. ceramic coat
the
inside, then the hot gases will have a harder time transferring heat to
the
metal - hence the pipe will run cooler. This would plead in favor of
ceramic
coating the inside, not the outside because if you do, you are
offsetting
the pipe's ability to cool down.
Only case against ceramic coating the inside would be metallurgical
factors
- does the ceramic coating process introduce elements into the metal
which
weaken it in some way?
As to holding your hand near a ceramic coated pipe inside an out to
witness
the fact that it is running cool - this is not necessarily good. You are
witnessing the fact that heat is not getting out due to the external
ceramic
coating. In fact, the metal just behind the ceramic coat could be very
hot,
hotter than without the ceramic coat.
Having said the above, additional weight could be an issue.
That's it - if anyone would care to comment?
Michele Delsol
RV8 - Fuselage
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of BPA
> Sent: Wednesday, June 29, 2005 9:26 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: Exhaust wrap
>
>
> Hi George,
>
> I've been following this exhaust wrap debate all morning and decided I
> would get a word in. Now, I am not an expert on exhaust systems, my
> specialty lies in the building of high performance Lycoming engines
> (certified also), but I have on more than one occasion eye witnessed
two
> different engines being tested on dynamometer using the ceramic coated
> exhaust systems. One engine, a TSIO-520 running on a test cell at
> another engine shop down from ours and a High Performance highly
> modified IO-540 300 HP engine on our own dyno. On both occasions, the
> mild steel pipes were ceramic coated inside and out. I could literally
> hold my hand within 1 inch of the pipes before I could feel any
radiant
> heat from the pipes, and this was at full power. The shop responsible
> for these systems is Forsling Aviation in Co. We are working on some
> stuff for the RV-10 together, and doing some different testing with
> different types of exhaust packages. If you would like to talk with
> them, I would be more than happy to pass his number along.
>
> Regards,
>
> Allen Barrett
> Barrett Precision Engines, Inc.
> www.barrettprecisionengines.com
> (918) 835-1089 phone
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Re: Exhaust wrap
>
>
> Here is the con of the Exhaust wrap as I understand it. I asked a two
> manufactures of custom aircraft aircraft exhaust and was warned not to
> use wrap. Apparently the exhaust pipe is put under more stress
(thermal)
> and leads to early failure. Also wrap can collect oil and cause a
fire.
> Apparently it is not an uncommon problem. Wrap at your own risk. I
like
> the idea, but if it increases the fire danger or chance of an exhaust
> crack, I will pass for now.
>
> The other scheme to reduce heat under the cowl is ceramic coatings. I
> was told flat out buy one exhaust manufacture that he would not
warranty
> my exhaust with ceramic. Again more likely to crack.
>
> It make sense. If you keep the exhaust super heated and unable to cool
> it may fail earlier. As far as ceramics there may be a whole different
> mechanism in causing cracks in exhaust pipes.Any technical data or
> experience with wrap. I am only going on what the people who make
> stainless steel exhaust say. Is thick walled mild steel better with
> wraps or coatings?
>
> Cheers George
>
>
> From: "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com> Subject: exhaust wrap
>
> Been using the stuff Aircraft Spruce sells since about 50 hours.
> I leave it
> natural in color. I have found that stainless steel hose clamps
> work best.
> Have tried the strap bands sold for the job and safety wire. The
> hose clamps
> do the best job.
>
> I have never wrapped any wield or joint so that these items can
be
>
> inspected. When you wrap a join or get a break in the pipe, it
> will BLOW
> through the wrap. I have never had a break in my pipe yet but
know
> on RV-3
> with an OLD Toole (spelling) exhaust that did.
>
> Gary A. Sobek
> "My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
> 1,690 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA
> http://SoCAL_WVAF.rvproject.com
>
>
> ----Original Message Follows----
> From: Louis Willig <larywil(at)comcast.net>
> Subject: RV-List: exhaust wrap
>
>
> Hi gang,
>
>
> I just removed the exhaust wrap that was applied by the builder
of
> my RV-4,
> IO-360. After nearly 500 hours, the wrap had deteriorated and
> could be torn
> off by hand. I never liked the wrap because I always believed
that
> it might
> be hiding underlying problems. BUT, now that it's been
removed,
> I realize
> how effective it has been. Since there were no problems found
> after
> removal, I think I will replace it. So, does anyone have a
> suggestion
> concerning the best brand(s) to use and what color to use. All
> suggestions
> will be considered. Thanks.
>
>
> Louis I Willig
> 1640 Oakwood Dr.
> Penn Valley, PA 19072
> 610 668-4964
> RV-4, N180PF
> 190HP IO-360, C/S prop
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Find restaurants, movies, travel & more fun for the weekend. Check it
> out!
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Any RVers in Italy or Germany? |
Hi Dave!
We are living near Frankfurt and beginning to build an RV7 in august.
If you want to visit us, youre welcome!!
We can talk about RVs and show you around.
Detlef and Lili
rv-list(at)matronics.com schrieb am 29.06.05 17:20:03:
>
>
> Are there any RVers out there in northern Italy or southern Germany?
> I'll be vacationing in Tuscany Italy and near Bodensee in southern
> Germany in the last two weeks of July. I'd like to come visit any RVs in
> progress or flying.
>
> Micky - are you out there? What part of Switzerland are you in?
>
> Dave Clinchy
> 7 finishing... finishing...
> Sacramento, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Exhaust wrap |
Try the local race shops.
>
> > ...
> > That's it - if anyone would care to comment?
>
>Yes - Does anyone know if there are companies that
>do ceramic coating in Europe? I've found lots in
>the US, and one in the UK. The auto shops I've
>contacted in my area have never even heard of this
>process.
>
>--
>Mickey Coggins
>http://www.rv8.ch/
>#82007 finishing
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Exhaust wrap |
| From: | "Nuffer, Chuck" <CNuffer(at)it21.com> |
A good friend has used two companies on his aircraft and seems to be the
most pleased with Performance Coatings - www.performancecoatings.com
He said the staff was very helpful. They work with several Reno air
race teams. I have seen his exhaust for the last 5 years and it still
looks great. As I understand it the exhaust manufacturers don't like
the stuff since it basically renders the exhaust system as unrepairable.
I don't think they could argue about the efficiency of removing heat
from under the cowling........ Call the Performance guys..... I'm not
an expert either..... They are!
Chuck
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]
Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: Exhaust wrap
Just my 02$'s worth - If you put a heat barrier on the outside of the
exhaust pipe, the metal will run hotter than not putting a heat barrier
since the heat barrier prevents radiation and convection cooling. This
is a good case against wrapping.
If you put a heat barrier on the inside of the pipe, i.e. ceramic coat
the inside, then the hot gases will have a harder time transferring heat
to the metal - hence the pipe will run cooler. This would plead in favor
of ceramic coating the inside, not the outside because if you do, you
are offsetting the pipe's ability to cool down.
Only case against ceramic coating the inside would be metallurgical
factors
- does the ceramic coating process introduce elements into the metal
which weaken it in some way?
As to holding your hand near a ceramic coated pipe inside an out to
witness the fact that it is running cool - this is not necessarily good.
You are witnessing the fact that heat is not getting out due to the
external ceramic coating. In fact, the metal just behind the ceramic
coat could be very hot, hotter than without the ceramic coat.
Having said the above, additional weight could be an issue.
That's it - if anyone would care to comment?
Michele Delsol
RV8 - Fuselage
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of BPA
> Sent: Wednesday, June 29, 2005 9:26 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: Exhaust wrap
>
>
> Hi George,
>
> I've been following this exhaust wrap debate all morning and decided I
> would get a word in. Now, I am not an expert on exhaust systems, my
> specialty lies in the building of high performance Lycoming engines
> (certified also), but I have on more than one occasion eye witnessed
> two different engines being tested on dynamometer using the ceramic
> coated exhaust systems. One engine, a TSIO-520 running on a test cell
> at another engine shop down from ours and a High Performance highly
> modified IO-540 300 HP engine on our own dyno. On both occasions, the
> mild steel pipes were ceramic coated inside and out. I could literally
> hold my hand within 1 inch of the pipes before I could feel any
> radiant heat from the pipes, and this was at full power. The shop
> responsible for these systems is Forsling Aviation in Co. We are
> working on some stuff for the RV-10 together, and doing some different
> testing with different types of exhaust packages. If you would like to
> talk with them, I would be more than happy to pass his number along.
>
> Regards,
>
> Allen Barrett
> Barrett Precision Engines, Inc.
> www.barrettprecisionengines.com
> (918) 835-1089 phone
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Re: Exhaust wrap
>
>
> Here is the con of the Exhaust wrap as I understand it. I asked a two
> manufactures of custom aircraft aircraft exhaust and was warned not to
> use wrap. Apparently the exhaust pipe is put under more stress
> (thermal) and leads to early failure. Also wrap can collect oil and
cause a fire.
> Apparently it is not an uncommon problem. Wrap at your own risk. I
> like the idea, but if it increases the fire danger or chance of an
> exhaust crack, I will pass for now.
>
> The other scheme to reduce heat under the cowl is ceramic coatings. I
> was told flat out buy one exhaust manufacture that he would not
> warranty my exhaust with ceramic. Again more likely to crack.
>
> It make sense. If you keep the exhaust super heated and unable to cool
> it may fail earlier. As far as ceramics there may be a whole different
> mechanism in causing cracks in exhaust pipes.Any technical data or
> experience with wrap. I am only going on what the people who make
> stainless steel exhaust say. Is thick walled mild steel better with
> wraps or coatings?
>
> Cheers George
>
>
> From: "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com> Subject: exhaust wrap
>
> Been using the stuff Aircraft Spruce sells since about 50 hours.
> I leave it
> natural in color. I have found that stainless steel hose clamps
> work best.
> Have tried the strap bands sold for the job and safety wire. The
> hose clamps
> do the best job.
>
> I have never wrapped any wield or joint so that these items can
> be
>
> inspected. When you wrap a join or get a break in the pipe, it
> will BLOW
> through the wrap. I have never had a break in my pipe yet but
> know on RV-3
> with an OLD Toole (spelling) exhaust that did.
>
> Gary A. Sobek
> "My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
> 1,690 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA
> http://SoCAL_WVAF.rvproject.com
>
>
> ----Original Message Follows----
> From: Louis Willig <larywil(at)comcast.net>
> Subject: RV-List: exhaust wrap
>
>
>
> Hi gang,
>
>
> I just removed the exhaust wrap that was applied by the builder
> of my RV-4,
> IO-360. After nearly 500 hours, the wrap had deteriorated and
> could be torn
> off by hand. I never liked the wrap because I always believed
> that it might
> be hiding underlying problems. BUT, now that it's been
> removed, I realize
> how effective it has been. Since there were no problems found
> after
> removal, I think I will replace it. So, does anyone have a
> suggestion
> concerning the best brand(s) to use and what color to use. All
> suggestions
> will be considered. Thanks.
>
>
> Louis I Willig
> 1640 Oakwood Dr.
> Penn Valley, PA 19072
> 610 668-4964
> RV-4, N180PF
> 190HP IO-360, C/S prop
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Find restaurants, movies, travel & more fun for the weekend. Check it
> out!
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming(at)sigecom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Hangar Rental |
I agree mostly with Mickey. You should stay working and building at home
until you the next thing you put together will be too big to take to the AP
or too hard to disassemble for the move and you are ready to put it all
together finally for your airworthiness certificate. Work is so much easier
at home and cheaper. Driving to the AP and back can be a real time waster.
Indiana Larry, RV7 Tip Up Flying out of the box (phase 1 testing done). do
not archive
Subject: Re: RV-List: Hangar Rental
>
> Hi Nigel,
>
> Where I live hangers are very hard to find, and they are all
> shared hangers. So, I'll be doing *everything* before I
> bring mine to the airport. I've put the wings on once
> to fit everything, and then removed them. My workshop
> is big enough to put the wings on and leave them on, but
> for convenience sake I'm leaving them off. I personally
> believe that your productivity will be much higher
> at home than in a hanger.
>
> If you really want an hour number, I'd say about 1000.
>
> Best regards,
> Mickey
>
>
> Nigel Goad wrote:
>>
>> My quickbuild fuselage and wings have arrived, I need a rough idea as
>> to the amount of working hours until the wings are final attached so
>> I can sort out timing for hangar rental. Any suggestions welcome.
>> Thanks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Cook" <Dugcook(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Hangar Rental |
Nigel,
I've put in about 250 hours on my Q-build RV-7 since the fuse & wings arrived.
I'm getting to the point where the wings need to go on for the first time. Maybe
50 hr more at the most. Of course if I knew what I was doing, that could
easily be cut in half.
Doug - RV-7A in progress in San Diego
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rv6n6r(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | Re: Hangar Rental |
I agree, its usually better to do as much as possible at home.
If hangars are hard to come by in your area, and if the hangar rules allow subleasing,
then you might think about grabbing one when it comes up and subleasing
it to someone until you're ready for it. Bonus is that you have a place to store
components as they're completed.
Randall Henderson, RV-6
Oregon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rv6n6r(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | Re: New transponder certification - check |
> I heard that the FAA is planing to change the requirenments for
> our transponder biannnual test & inspection. Does anybody
> know any details ?
No. Heard it where?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Exhaust Wrap (Ceramic coating) |
Michele:
Makes sense, ceramic coating should keep the pipe cooler from the inside. However
as you point out what is the metallurgical factors, AND there are thermal factors.
If the ceramic coating is not evenly applied (or bare spots) over the whole surface,
than you will have hot spots. These hot spots will cause high stress due
to uneven heating. I am only guessing here from my engineering and structures
experience. I don't know how hard it is to coat pipes in ceramics or its metallurgical
factors.
I don't know for a fact that exhaust pipes are more prone to cracks from ceramic
coating, but this is new stuff for (experimental) airplanes. Like anything there
is no free lunch. I am sure there can be some potential down side but don't
have any specific facts, only that you have two different materials, metal
and ceramic bonded together.
Since this is used more in cars and racing and have more experience with ceramic
coated exhaust may be the info could be found there? Comments?
Cheers George
Just my 02$'s worth - If you put a heat barrier on the outside of the
exhaust pipe, the metal will run hotter than not putting a heat barrier
since the heat barrier prevents radiation and convection cooling. This is
a
good case against wrapping.
If you put a heat barrier on the inside of the pipe, i.e. ceramic coat the
inside, then the hot gases will have a harder time transferring heat to the
metal - hence the pipe will run cooler. This would plead in favor of ceramic
coating the inside, not the outside because if you do, you are offsetting
the pipe's ability to cool down.
Only case against ceramic coating the inside would be metallurgical factors
- does the ceramic coating process introduce elements into the metal which
weaken it in some way?
As to holding your hand near a ceramic coated pipe inside an out to witness
the fact that it is running cool - this is not necessarily good. You are
witnessing the fact that heat is not getting out due to the external ceramic
coating. In fact, the metal just behind the ceramic coat could be very hot,
hotter than without the ceramic coat.
Having said the above, additional weight could be an issue.
That's it - if anyone would care to comment?
Michele Delsol
RV8 - Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rv6n6r(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | Re: Exhaust wrap |
> Just my 02$'s worth - If you put a heat barrier on the outside of the
> exhaust pipe, the metal will run hotter than not putting a heat barrier
[snip]
> That's it - if anyone would care to comment?
There's a ton of stuff about ceramic coating and exhaust wrap in the archives,
going back to '95. Personally after reading all of that I think KISS is the best
principle. I'm happy with my vetterman SS exhaust system -- did have a crack
once in 670 hrs but it was easy to get off and get welded, no other complaints.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R
Oregon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Bean <jim-bean(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Hangar Rental |
I logged about 2800 hours on my quickbuild RV-8, over about 5 years.
Jim Bean
Signed off
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bill shook <billshook2000(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Exhaust Wrap (Ceramic coating) |
I chimed in earlier about how the exhaust wrap on my race car caught on fire with
some
oil soaking. On the ceramic coating I have some experience as well. A few details,
the
car is a turbo charged GT-3 racer running 26lbs of boost. That translates into
an awful
lot of heat as in exhaust glowing red hot after a race..hence the need for keeping
the
heat in the exhaust and out of the engine bay. Anyway, the wrap turned out to
be a bad
idea when it caught on fire, but the need for a thermal bearier is still there,
so I
turned to ceramic coating. The exhaust on my car is stock from porsche with a
lot of
racing miles on it and yet the ceramic coating has been on there for 4 years now
with no
ill effects. The exhaust is hot enough to ignite unspent fuel during shifting
or engine
braking (4 foot flame thrower out the rear of the car) and yet the engine bay remains
cool. Keep in mind a race car and an aircraft have different cooling extremes
to be
sure. However, I thought with all the talk about ceramics good and bad I thought
I
should throw in that my experience with ceramic coating both on race cars and
motorcycles has been trouble free.
Your milage may vary, in my humble opinion only, run at your own risk, never swim
sooner
than 30 minutes after a meal, and my aircraft when finally finished will have ceramic
coated exhaust. Have a great 4th everyone
Bill
-4 wings
__________________________________
Find restaurants, movies, travel and more fun for the weekend. Check it out!
http://discover.yahoo.com/weekend.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Martin Hone" <mctrader(at)bigpond.net.au> |
| Subject: | Re: Exhaust wrap |
I think BPA has hit the nail on the head. By ceramic coating the pipes,
preferably on the inside, the exhaust gas retains its heat which means it
travels faster. This has been proven by myself and others with a gain in
horsepower on race engines.
For aircraft, the main benefit is in lower under-cowl temps. I have used
exhaust wrap to good effect on race stuff, but believe that ceramic coating
the inside is the best way to go. Doing the outside would seem to allow
possible overheating of the steel, as would the wrap, but doing the inside
would keep the heat away from the steel. The only downside I can see would
be in trying to repair a crack. Anybody tried to repair a ceramic-coated
pipe ?
Martin in Oz
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | lockwashers on Odyssey battery terminals? |
| From: | czechsix(at)juno.com |
Ok, ignorant question....does anybody see a need to add a lockwasher to
the battery terminal bolts? My PC-680 battery just came with a plain
washer for each bolt, but no lockwasher. Seems like everything else on
an airplane uses some sort of lockwasher, cotter pin, or self locking
nut, so I'm wondering if this is an exception? No point in adding it if
it ain't needed though....
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A N2D....light's getting brighter at the end of the tunnel....moving
to the airport in two weeks....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | vhimsl <vhimsl(at)turbonet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cowl mounting |
If you go to Van's web site, you will find a pdf document where the Van pros describe
how to mount the cowl using spacers. Briefly, the document states you do
not need the exhaust system or other items to mount the cowl as they just get
in the way. Good read.
An accurate laser level on a level tripod will help draw the cutting line escecialy
around inlets.
I made my cutting line parallel to the line along the cockpit canopy rail with
the plane level (again in relation to the cockpit rail)
This is where I am at now after botching it the first time. Carefully read the
instructions else you will be rebuilding the sides.
The snout below bottom cowl is not same as one shown in my big drawing of fuselage.
All in all, a genuine real pain in the rear!
Good Luck
Vince Himsl
RV8 VSH Finish - Cowl
-----Original message-----
From: "Darwin N. Barrie" ktlkrn(at)cox.net
Date: Wed, 29 Jun 2005 18:01:03 -0700
Subject: RV-List: Cowl mounting
>
> Somewhere in the maze of information I have read about mounting the cowl slightly
lower than the spinner backplate to compensate for the engine sag.
>
> I am going to start the cowl mounting tonight and would like some info from those
who have "been there, done that."
>
> DArwin N. Barrie
> P19
> Cowl/baffling/wiring completion
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | sportav8r(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Is this gent on the list? |
Nice looking RV, and the world's best second hobby (besides firearms :-)
http://www.af.mil/news/story.asp?storyID=123010901&page=1
Click the hi-res photo button for a much better look at him.
-Stormy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming(at)sigecom.net> |
| Subject: | Aft edge glare shield cover |
Another idea on covering the aft edge of the glare shield can be found at
most any auto parts store. I bought some truck door edge molding, black
flexible plastic and it comes with a bit of sticky stuff in the inside. I
measured it carefully and just pushed it on. Looks nice and is not that
large that you even notice it after a while. Does not really add a big
bulge. I like it for about $4 for 4 ft.
Indiana Larry, RV7 Tip Up It Flies (glare shield aft edge, glare shield
cover, glare shield edge cover)
----- Original Message -----
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV4 N3074T Crash
>
> I split a 1/2" dia thickwall aluminum tube of length to cover the glare
> shield edge and forced it over the aluminum sheet, wrapped than in some
> substantial foam and put vinyl over that to provide a neat looking and
> safer
> glare shield. Inexpensive and fairly easy to do.
>
> Ed Anderson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denis Walsh <denis.walsh(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cowl mounting |
An old timer told me to start out with the cowl even with the top of
the spinner. The expected sag would come along later and it would be
very close to same space top and bottom. Also use new engine mount
donuts.
Worked for me. Still looks ok after 1500 hours.
Denis Walsh
On Jul 2, 2005, at 1:06 AM, vhimsl wrote:
>
> If you go to Van's web site, you will find a pdf document where the
> Van pros describe how to mount the cowl using spacers. Briefly, the
> document states you do not need the exhaust system or other items
> to mount the cowl as they just get in the way. Good read.
>
> An accurate laser level on a level tripod will help draw the
> cutting line escecialy around inlets.
>
> I made my cutting line parallel to the line along the cockpit
> canopy rail with the plane level (again in relation to the cockpit
> rail)
>
> This is where I am at now after botching it the first time.
> Carefully read the instructions else you will be rebuilding the sides.
>
> The snout below bottom cowl is not same as one shown in my big
> drawing of fuselage.
>
> All in all, a genuine real pain in the rear!
>
> Good Luck
> Vince Himsl
> RV8 VSH Finish - Cowl
>
> -----Original message-----
> From: "Darwin N. Barrie" ktlkrn(at)cox.net
> Date: Wed, 29 Jun 2005 18:01:03 -0700
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Cowl mounting
>
>
>>
>> Somewhere in the maze of information I have read about mounting
>> the cowl slightly lower than the spinner backplate to compensate
>> for the engine sag.
>>
>> I am going to start the cowl mounting tonight and would like some
>> info from those who have "been there, done that."
>>
>> DArwin N. Barrie
>> P19
>> Cowl/baffling/wiring completion
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com
Lists: RV-List,RV3-List,RV4-List,RV6-List,RV7-List,RV8-List,RV9-List,RV10-List
Subject: Brake Line Failure
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/eanderson@carolina.rr.com.07.02.2005/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
4) One line Subject description:
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Van's new cockpit vents in an RV-4?? |
Has anyone installed the new rectangular RV-10 backseat vents in an RV-4
in the canopy skirt? I'm wondering if I can mount them in the canopy
skirt instead of the fuse. below the top longeron. The tech guy at Van's
was unsure about mounting them in the skirt due to its extra curvature.
Thanks,
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John B. Szantho" <szantho(at)usa.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV9-A Fuel line |
I want to drill the hole in the firewall for the fuel line bulkhead fitting.
On the engine side this fitting will connect to the Andair gascolator. I
would like to locate the bulkhead connector about 9=94 above the Facet fuel
pump outlet (about =BD way up the firewall) and 7=94-8=94 above the gascolator.
Will this cause any fuel pressure or other fuel flow problems? This would
give me the easiest connection on the engine side. Also did you guys use the
steel bulkhead fitting or the aluminum? I would appreciate any help you can
give me.
John
RV9-A Firewall Forward, Lycoming O-320
N3294C
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Wanted: 3/32 clecos |
I'm just starting a RV-10 kit and find I need additional silver clecos. If
anyone has 1 or 2 hundred for sale, I'm interested.
Albert Gardner
RV-9A N872RV
Yuma, AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John B. Szantho" <szantho(at)usa.com> |
| Subject: | Re:RV9-A Fuel line |
I don't know what happened, but all my numbers got scrambled in the original
message.
Try again, maybe this time it will work. Sorry for the repeat.
I want to drill the hole in the firewall for the fuel line bulkhead fitting.
On the engine side this fitting will connect to the Andair gascolator. I
would like to locate the bulkhead connector about 9 inches above the Facet
fuel
pump outlet (about half way up the firewall) and 7-8 inches above the
gascolator.
Will this cause any fuel pressure or other fuel flow problems? This would
give me the easiest connection on the engine side. Also did you guys use the
steel bulkhead fitting or the aluminum? I would appreciate any help you can
give me.
John
RV9-A Firewall Forward, Lycoming O-320
N3294C
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Isler" <jlisler(at)alltel.net> |
After several years of construction on my RV-4 (serial number 1070) I
finally started the engine for the first time Saturday. Although it is still
located at my shop at home I pulled her outside, installed both wings
temporarily, plumbed up the right gas tank (thankfully no leaks) and added 5
gallons of 100LL. After priming, I hit the starter and on the fourth blade
it fired right
off. As I sat there in all my glory I could see that top plug wires for
cylinders 2 and 4 were disconnected! So much for my once over before
starting. I shut her back down, climbed out, connected up the plug wires,
and gave the engine a good going over. No more discrepancies. Started up
again and she's running exceptionally well. Oil pressure 80 psig at 1000
RPM, EGT's and CHT's coming up, 15.2 Volts!!!! What? 15.2 volts? Pulled the
field breaker to stop the alternator. I guess the Van's adjustable voltage
regulator needs a little tweaking. Oh well. All else is right on the money.
All the
Electronics International gauges are working. I was concerned there could
have been wiring issues due to the complexity of connecting these
instruments up but none have surfaced.
The engine runs great. It's an 160 hp O-320 that I overhauled myself. It
started life as
a 150 hp O320-E2D out of a 172. I sent the crank, rods, camshaft, gears,
internal parts and cylinders to
Barrett Performance Engines in Oklahoma for rework. The rotating assembly
was balanced and the camshaft and tappets reworked. The cylinders were
reworked with
new valves and valve seats. They came back to me with the rings already on
the pistons
and the pistons slid into the cylinders. All I had to do was pull them back
just far enough to
slide in the piston pins and plugs upon assembly. The crankcase was
exchanged
at Divco. I converted the engine to 160 horses by installing large main
bearings
on the crankshaft, heavy wall piston pins, and higher compression pistons. I
overhauled the carb
with a kit I got from Avstar out of Florida. The only adjustment needed is
to set the idle stop a little
higher. I am running a wooden Sensenich propeller and a Landall balancer so
I need a little
more RPM for now.
The family dogs even got in on the action. It was 93 degrees and about 98%
humidity today
so when I was running the engine they both laid on the ground behind the
tail of the plane and enjoyed the breeze.
I was surprised they didn't run. It was a good day for all of us.
Jerry Isler
RV-4 #1070
N455J
Donalsonville, Georgia
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DEAN PSIROPOULOS" <dean.psiropoulos(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Need advice on wood props. |
I decided I would do my first flights with a wood prop and fly with one for
a while before spending the big bucks on something metal. I was going to
order a new one but have recently come across two used props that can be had
for very good prices and supposedly will work on my airplane. Problem is,
I'm not 100% sure they'll work on my plane and I don't know anything about
wood props so I'm not sure if I'm looking at good deals or worthless junk.
So any listers familiar with wood props that could give me some advice would
be appreciated.
I have a Mattituck Lycoming 0-360 clone engine with standard compression
pistons, lightspeed ignition on one side and AFP fuel injection (180 Horse).
The props in question supposedly fit the bolt pattern on my crankshaft. I
purchased the 2 and 1/4 inch wood prop extension from Van's and the pins on
that extension do line up with the bolt holes in both propellers but the
hubs of both propellers would have to be drilled out larger to fit over
these pins. How would I do that? I assume this would have to be a
precision operation so the prop wouldn't fit sloppy over the extension.
One of the props has what looks to be little wooden inserts glued into the
bolt holes which I assume were put there to make the bolt hole smaller or
maybe take out some elongation of the holes (although it doesn't look like
the original holes are oval in shape or grossly elongated). Would this be a
"red flag" for buying this prop? This prop bolt pattern matches the pattern
for my engine but the bolt holes are smaller and would have to be drilled
out larger for the extension so maybe it wouldn't matter?! Again, how would
I go about drilling the holes out bigger and get the required accuracy to
fit the prop extension?
Manufacturers-One of the propellers is an Ed Sterba and is 70 long with 80
pitch. This would, I think, be a great cruise prop and even though I
probably won't get full RPM on takeoff it's not like I'm lacking in the HP
dept. This one looks to be in great shape with a nice finish, no
delamination and only a slight depression in the front of the hub where the
crush plate goes. It does not have the inserts glued into the bolt holes
and is the most likely candidate for my purchase. Any thoughts about the
Manufacturer or....the length/pitch combo or....anything else....???
The other propeller has no brand name on it but also looks to be in great
shape with a nice finish and no delamination but does have the inserts in
the bolt holes. Its only discernable markings are numbers stamped into the
hub that read 68-76-64. I measured it and it is 68 inches long so I suspect
that's what the first number is for. I assume the second number is the pitch
but what's with the third number? I thought propellers were characterized
by only two numbers?
Any general thoughts on wood propellers would be greatly appreciated since I
know virtually nothing about them. Should I give one of these a try or just
order one from a carver? If these are no good can anyone recommend an
establisher prop maker with a good reputation for reliability and service?
Thanks.
Dean Psiropoulos
RV-6A N197DM
Cowling and wiring
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Need advice on wood props. |
I can answer some of your questions.
If the holes line up but are too small, then the prop is designed for an
O-320 with 7/16 prop lugs. The O-360 uses 1/2 inch lugs. You could
theoretically drill out the holes to the right size, but the prop, if
designed for a 320 is probably underpitched for a 360.
Ed Sterba makes a great wood prop, and he is a great guy to deal with.
He's glad to talk to you as the owner of a second hand prop. I started
out with one of his props (obtained second hand) flew it for the first
year, about 150 hours, then sold it to another RV Lister for almost
exactly what I paid for it. FYI mine was a 70X82, and I'd say that was
just a bit underpitched for a cruise prop, so 70X80 is definitely
underpitched. It was a great all-around prop, just slightly
underpitched for a pure cruise prop. My engine setup is nearly
identical to yours except for the builder.
I sold my Sterba because I needed something which was more durable in
rain, but if that were not an issue, I'd still have it.
Used wood props can be had in the $500 range all the time. There's a
Warnke O-360 prop for sale on the VAF classifieds right now for $450,
with spinner, bolts, extension and crush plate.
FWIW- I thought having a wood prop for the first year while I was
learning to land this thing would be a good idea. A prop strike with a
wood prop is a write-off of the $500 prop and not much else. A prop
strike with a metal prop is a helluva lot more $$$. Fortunately I never
had to put this to the test. YMMV ;)
Jeff Point
RV-6
Milwaukee WI
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ron Lee <ronlee(at)pcisys.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Need advice on wood props. |
I can't help with your basic questions but if you decide to order
I suggest a Catto three blade prop. Another RV-6A runs along
side me and runs about 100 rpm less at the same airspeed and
climbs better than my Aymar-Demuth wood prop.
Ron Lee
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DAVID REEL" <dreel(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Alternator Cooling |
I've been working out how to cool my Van's 35 amp alternator & would like to bounce
these ideas off all you guys noggins.
I'm running a standard Van's corrugated blast tube from an 11/16 hole in the floor
of the right air intake baffle to an 11/16 hole in the aft alternator cover.
The remainder of the aft cover, which is roughly disk shaped and perforated
with a lot of 1/4" holes, is sealed on the inside with UHMW tape so the entering
air is forced to flow out the small side gaps and the large front opening
of the alternator. I've taped up the various openings to verify that air can
in fact flow this way by blowing in the hose at the back.
Two potential problems have been worrying me. First, I might be fighting the natural
flow of air from front to back which could result in poorer rather than
better cooling. I'm just assuming the air in the vicinity of the alternator
is relatively stagnant. In addition, I've made a 3 5/8" pulley to replace the
small standard pulley so the alternator's front opening is completely masked
by the pulley which is about 1/2" in front of the alternator body.
Second, cooling air is entering on one side of the disk at the rear of the alternator.
Will enough air flow to the sides to cool the alternator the whole way
around or will hot spots develop opposite the air entry point because the perforated
cover has been sealed? What about operation on the ground waiting to
depart when little air is forced into the cowl?
Well, that's it. Any ideas appreciated. By the way, day VFR load on the electrical
system is 10 amps, night 18 amps exclusive of battery charging or intermittent
loads and the engine is an O360 A1A.
Dave Reel - RV8A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ron Lee <ronlee(at)pcisys.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Alternator Cooling |
Ground ops: install a mini AC unit that blows air on the alternator
Seems that blowing on the front into the unit is adequate. One guy
here does it that way. I have no additional cooling and have not had
a failure...although cooling air cannot hurt.
PS...I was kidding about the AC unit. Seems that operation is limited
in duration and should not be a worry. On start up the engine is rather
cool and if you gradually reduce power 10 minutes or so from landing
that will reduce the engine temp substantially.
Another thought is that if the alternator is cheap...just replace it every
three years or so before it can fail.
Ron Lee
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Leach" <papadaddyo(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Encouragement - Help |
Someone please tell me that eventually all the honey do's will slow down
and the building process will pick up. Seams that ever since the
empennage came, the honey do list is bigger. I am making progress on
the emp but it is going slow. I suppose that it isn't unusual for a
project to take much longer than planned. Now that I am done sniveling,
a question: When I countersink, I have been using the trial and error
method, (on scrap) to get the proper depth using the micro countersink
tool from Cleveland tools. Is there a quicker way to set the gauge?
Rick L
N512RM - reserved
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Walter Tondu <walter(at)tondu.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Encouragement - Help |
On 07/03 4:01, Richard Leach wrote:
> Someone please tell me that eventually all the honey do's will slow down
> and the building process will pick up. Seams that ever since the
> empennage came, the honey do list is bigger. I am making progress on
> the emp but it is going slow. I suppose that it isn't unusual for a
> project to take much longer than planned. Now that I am done sniveling,
> a question: When I countersink, I have been using the trial and error
> method, (on scrap) to get the proper depth using the micro countersink
> tool from Cleveland tools. Is there a quicker way to set the gauge?
You could buy two countersinks (or more) one each for #30 and #40...
A fairly inexpensive way to cut time.
Speaking of time, I got my Airworthiness Cert. today after
two dedicated years of building. But, I had zero honey do's :)
A little every day makes a big difference.
--
Walter Tondu
http://www.rv7-a.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Encouragement - Help |
Can't help with the honey do's. It's part of the price we pay and just
seems worse because of the desire to get building. But on the
countersinks you can make your life easier by buying extra cages so you
only have to adjust each once and they're ready to go as soon as you
chuck them up in the drill.
Regards,
Greg Young - Houston (DWH)
RV-6 N6GY ...project Phoenix
Navion N5221K - just an XXL RV-6A
>
>
>
> Someone please tell me that eventually all the honey do's
> will slow down and the building process will pick up. Seams
> that ever since the empennage came, the honey do list is
> bigger. I am making progress on the emp but it is going
> slow. I suppose that it isn't unusual for a project to take
> much longer than planned. Now that I am done sniveling, a
> question: When I countersink, I have been using the trial
> and error method, (on scrap) to get the proper depth using
> the micro countersink tool from Cleveland tools. Is there a
> quicker way to set the gauge?
>
> Rick L
> N512RM - reserved
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob Prior (rv7)" <rv7(at)b4.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Encouragement - Help |
On 13:01:07 2005-07-03 "Richard Leach" wrote:
> When I countersink, I have been using the
> trial and error method, (on scrap) to get the proper depth using the
> micro countersink tool from Cleveland tools. Is there a quicker way
> to set the gauge?
I set mine trial-and-error, but I try to batch up the countersinking so I
don't have to switch from #30 to #40 and back that often. I also do it on
the actual part, and trial-and-error it down to the right point. I have
yet to overshoot, but it does take patience as you're getting close.
-Rob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Roger Embree <rembree(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Mike Shields Atlantic Crossing |
Mike Shields completed the first leg of his trans-Atlantic trip this
morning flying from Hamilton to Halifax.
For those insterested in keeping track of Mike, he is posting daily
updates on his web site.
http://www.c-goju.com/Europe_2005/TransAtlantic.htm
You can read more about C-GOJU here too.
http://www.c-goju.com/
CHCH TV11 news did a little story on his trip.
http://rapidshare.de/files/2665620/gojuch.mpg.html
click on the above link and scroll down the list to the FREE download
button, another window will load and scroll down to the bottom and click
on the GOJUch.mpg.html file. This is a MPeg of the news broadcast last
week.
Roger Embree
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Cimino" <jcimino(at)echoes.net> |
| Subject: | ESPN Camera ship |
Received-SPF: none
I just got home from a full day of flying around as a camera ship for ESPN. Our
EAA Chapter had been involved with a spot for a series on ESPN called "Timeless".
They are doing a show on aerobatic competition involving a wide variety
of pilots and planes. They needed in-flight shots for the show and I got to
use my RV-8 as the camera platform. We flew all afternoon and shot a ton of video
which will be edited down to about thirty seconds. It was an interesting
experience and a lot of fun. I have flown a lot of loose formation flying over
the years and some very tight formation flying...but this was the first time
I flew formation with the other plane inverted. The episode will be on ESPN2
on July 23rd at 11:30 a.m. and ESPN on the 24th (not sure about the time). It
was definitely an interesting way to spend a Sunday Afternoon.
Jim
Jim Cimino
N7TL
RV-8 S/N 80039
150+ Hours
http://www.geocities.com/jcimino.geo/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | USB powered GPS with iPaq?? |
1.30 UNDISC_RECIPS Valid-looking To "undisclosed-recipients"
Has anyone successfully used one of the GPS engines powered through the
USB cable with an iPaq?
Comp USA has a DeLorme 12 channel WAAS NMEA GPS that's both powered &
talks through a USB port for around $80. This seems to be a pretty good
deal if it will work with the iPaq & the street software would be
lagniappe.
I'll probably buy AnywhereMap software to run on it.
Thanks,
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Folbrecht <paulfolbrecht(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: USB powered GPS with iPaq?? 1.30 UNDISC_RECIPS |
Valid-looking To "undisclosed-recipients"
I run Anywhere Map on an iPaq but use Garmin's bluetooth (wireless) GPS. It's
only like $100 through Anywhere.
--- Charlie England wrote:
>
> Has anyone successfully used one of the GPS engines powered through the
> USB cable with an iPaq?
>
> Comp USA has a DeLorme 12 channel WAAS NMEA GPS that's both powered &
> talks through a USB port for around $80. This seems to be a pretty good
> deal if it will work with the iPaq & the street software would be
> lagniappe.
>
> I'll probably buy AnywhereMap software to run on it.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Charlie
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com |
| Subject: | Encouragement - Help |
Rick,
I sort of eyeball the countersink undersize than adjust by trial and error
with a real rivet until I get it just right. I also sense how hard I press
down on the drill since that can affect the countersink depth somewhat.
As for getting the project done, tell yourself that for a standard kit it is
2000 to 4000 hours. Also work in parts and pieces. Every time you get
something done, that's something which does not need doing any more. Don't
look at the big picture - just look at little things that need to get done,
like making a part, like deburing a bunch of ribs. Every time you finish
something - that something takes you that much closer to the finished
airplane. Also, try to work on your plane every day, if only an hour, you'd
be amazed how much these hours add up and help you get the project
completed.
Michele Delsol
RV8 - Fuselage.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Richard Leach
> Sent: Sunday, July 03, 2005 10:01 PM
> To: RV list; owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Encouragement - Help
>
>
> Someone please tell me that eventually all the honey do's will slow down
> and the building process will pick up. Seams that ever since the
> empennage came, the honey do list is bigger. I am making progress on
> the emp but it is going slow. I suppose that it isn't unusual for a
> project to take much longer than planned. Now that I am done sniveling,
> a question: When I countersink, I have been using the trial and error
> method, (on scrap) to get the proper depth using the micro countersink
> tool from Cleveland tools. Is there a quicker way to set the gauge?
>
> Rick L
> N512RM - reserved
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bryan" <flyrv6(at)bryantechnology.com> |
| Subject: | Re: USB powered GPS with iPaq?? |
Charlie, Is the iPaq Bluetooth? You can get the Garmin 10 (I think) that
doesn't need a cable. Pretty sure the same one available used by Vision
control with the anywhere map.
-------Original Message-------
From: Charlie England
Date: 07/03/05 20:27:40
Valid-looking To "undisclosed-recipients"
Has anyone successfully used one of the GPS engines powered through the
USB cable with an iPaq?
Comp USA has a DeLorme 12 channel WAAS NMEA GPS that's both powered &
talks through a USB port for around $80. This seems to be a pretty good
deal if it will work with the iPaq & the street software would be
lagniappe.
I'll probably buy AnywhereMap software to run on it.
Thanks,
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: USB powered GPS with iPaq?? |
Charlie England wrote:
>
>Has anyone successfully used one of the GPS engines powered through the
>USB cable with an iPaq?
>
>Comp USA has a DeLorme 12 channel WAAS NMEA GPS that's both powered &
>talks through a USB port for around $80. This seems to be a pretty good
>deal if it will work with the iPaq & the street software would be
>lagniappe.
>
>I'll probably buy AnywhereMap software to run on it.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Charlie
>
Just got a reply from another list; there's a product on the market that
works off the usb port of an iPaq. Here's the link to their usb powered
gps engine:
http://www.pcavionics.com/custserv/usb_gps_specs.jsp
This means that it should be do-able with pretty much any usb gps, some
connectors & soldering skills.
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaztuna(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Encouragement - Help |
Rick,
All the previous advise you've received has been excellent. If you can't
afford a 2nd countersink cage, do the following.
Install your #40 C/S bit and adjust it as needed. Paint a line (I used red
paint) on the cage's adjustment ring (in line with the zero line). Add a
dab of this same color paint to your C/S bit.
Repeat this operation with your other C/S bits. Mark the setting point for
each one with a different color paint. Once you have marked the set points,
you can change bits back and forth and simply reset the cage to your
designated set points. If you don't have appropriate paints, steal your
wife's nail polish.
Charlie Kuss
PS Don't get caught robbing the nail polish. The "honey do" list will only
get longer! ;-)
>
>Someone please tell me that eventually all the honey do's will slow down
>and the building process will pick up. Seams that ever since the
>empennage came, the honey do list is bigger. I am making progress on
>the emp but it is going slow. I suppose that it isn't unusual for a
>project to take much longer than planned. Now that I am done sniveling,
>a question: When I countersink, I have been using the trial and error
>method, (on scrap) to get the proper depth using the micro countersink
>tool from Cleveland tools. Is there a quicker way to set the gauge?
>
>Rick L
>N512RM - reserved
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie Kuss <chaztuna(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Encouragement - Help |
Rick,
Another way to speed up setting your C/S cage is to use a Dial Vernier
Caliper set (if you own one). Set the C/S slightly shallow. Machine the
test C/S in scrap. Drop in a rivet. The end of your Dial Verniers opposite
the measuring jaws can be used like a depth micrometer. Open the jaws
slightly. Place the housing of the Dial Verniers (opposite the jaws end)
onto the rivet firmly. The toothed rack of the Verniers will be pushed
closed as it meets the skin/rib/spar. Read the measurement on the Dial
Vernier and add that amount to the depth setting on the Verniers. Each
small line on the C/S cage equals 0.001". On my C/S cage, one complete turn
of the drum equals 0.025" You must support the rivet during the measuring
operation using your other hand. Otherwise, the Dial Verniers will tilt the
rivet head slightly. That tilt will throw off the measurement. I simply
grasp the shank of the rivet between my thumb and fore finger to support
the rivet while I measure. I hope this helps.
Charlie Kuss
>
>Someone please tell me that eventually all the honey do's will slow down
>and the building process will pick up. Seams that ever since the
>empennage came, the honey do list is bigger. I am making progress on
>the emp but it is going slow. I suppose that it isn't unusual for a
>project to take much longer than planned. Now that I am done sniveling,
>a question: When I countersink, I have been using the trial and error
>method, (on scrap) to get the proper depth using the micro countersink
>tool from Cleveland tools. Is there a quicker way to set the gauge?
>
>Rick L
>N512RM - reserved
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net> |
Free admission, possible door prize & free fuel home. What_a_concept &
interesting contrast with homebuilt treatment at that big event further
north later this month...
Charlie
-------- Original Message --------
| Subject: | [ThorpList] CGI Airshow |
From: jeffery d houseman <midstatesaviation(at)juno.com>
Hey Gary and the rest of you,
Just wanted to remind everyone about the Cape Girardeau Airshow, coming
up July 8, 9, and 10. Everyone who flys in in an experimental and
prize (GPS Map 96 or Sigtronics portable intercom), plus get your fuel
topped off. You can't beat a deal like that! Friday night will feature
Bill Leff and some night parachute drops then a hanger dance. Saturday
show starts at 11am until 3pm, and Sunday is from 1 until 5.
Friday the field is closed from 2 until 4pm for practice then again for
the show from 7pm til 9pm.
If you need help finding a room or transportation, let me know. And if
you do fly-in, just tell the tower after you land that you want to park
with the experimentals on the east ramp.
Sure would like to see a few T-18's
For more info check out www.capeairfestival.com
ps. I cant garantee hanger space in case of weather, but I'm sure I could
find room for a couple.
Fly-safe
Dean Houseman
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Walter Tondu <walter(at)tondu.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Encouragement - Help |
On 07/03 5:44, Dan Checkoway wrote:
>
> > Speaking of time, I got my Airworthiness Cert. today after
> > two dedicated years of building. But, I had zero honey do's :)
>
> Congratulations, Walter!!!
>
> When's the first flight?
Start flying "regular" airplanes this week. Then
transition training then first flight. I've got two issues
though. First my dad insists on being here. Complicating
matters is that I have to be in Michigan (and my dad) at
the end of July for one week.
I dunno yet, but soon. Feels good to get to this point though...
--
Walter Tondu
http://www.rv7-a.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling2(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Encouragement - Help |
You can always use your deburring tool. You'll be surprised how quickly you
can calibrate your eye.
Shemp/Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, N915JD
200 hours
Chicago/Louisville
----- Original Message -----
From: "Charlie Kuss" <chaztuna(at)adelphia.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Encouragement - Help
>
> Rick,
> Another way to speed up setting your C/S cage is to use a Dial Vernier
> Caliper set (if you own one). Set the C/S slightly shallow. Machine the
> test C/S in scrap. Drop in a rivet. The end of your Dial Verniers opposite
> the measuring jaws can be used like a depth micrometer. Open the jaws
> slightly. Place the housing of the Dial Verniers (opposite the jaws end)
> onto the rivet firmly. The toothed rack of the Verniers will be pushed
> closed as it meets the skin/rib/spar. Read the measurement on the Dial
> Vernier and add that amount to the depth setting on the Verniers. Each
> small line on the C/S cage equals 0.001". On my C/S cage, one complete
> turn
> of the drum equals 0.025" You must support the rivet during the
> measuring
> operation using your other hand. Otherwise, the Dial Verniers will tilt
> the
> rivet head slightly. That tilt will throw off the measurement. I simply
> grasp the shank of the rivet between my thumb and fore finger to support
> the rivet while I measure. I hope this helps.
> Charlie Kuss
>
>>
>>Someone please tell me that eventually all the honey do's will slow down
>>and the building process will pick up. Seams that ever since the
>>empennage came, the honey do list is bigger. I am making progress on
>>the emp but it is going slow. I suppose that it isn't unusual for a
>>project to take much longer than planned. Now that I am done sniveling,
>>a question: When I countersink, I have been using the trial and error
>>method, (on scrap) to get the proper depth using the micro countersink
>>tool from Cleveland tools. Is there a quicker way to set the gauge?
>>
>>Rick L
>>N512RM - reserved
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bryan" <flyrv6(at)bryantechnology.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Encouragement - Help |
I did mine all this way. Couldn't deal with the micro stop inconsistency
Tim
DNA
-------Original Message-------
From: Jeff Dowling
Date: 07/04/05 08:51:46
Subject: Re: RV-List: Encouragement - Help
You can always use your deburring tool. You'll be surprised how quickly you
can calibrate your eye.
Shemp/Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, N915JD
200 hours
Chicago/Louisville
----- Original Message -----
From: "Charlie Kuss" <chaztuna(at)adelphia.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Encouragement - Help
>
> Rick,
> Another way to speed up setting your C/S cage is to use a Dial Vernier
> Caliper set (if you own one). Set the C/S slightly shallow. Machine the
> test C/S in scrap. Drop in a rivet. The end of your Dial Verniers opposite
> the measuring jaws can be used like a depth micrometer. Open the jaws
> slightly. Place the housing of the Dial Verniers (opposite the jaws end)
> onto the rivet firmly. The toothed rack of the Verniers will be pushed
> closed as it meets the skin/rib/spar. Read the measurement on the Dial
> Vernier and add that amount to the depth setting on the Verniers. Each
> small line on the C/S cage equals 0.001". On my C/S cage, one complete
> turn
> of the drum equals 0.025" You must support the rivet during the
> measuring
> operation using your other hand. Otherwise, the Dial Verniers will tilt
> the
> rivet head slightly. That tilt will throw off the measurement. I simply
> grasp the shank of the rivet between my thumb and fore finger to support
> the rivet while I measure. I hope this helps.
> Charlie Kuss
>
>>
>>Someone please tell me that eventually all the honey do's will slow down
>>and the building process will pick up. Seams that ever since the
>>empennage came, the honey do list is bigger. I am making progress on
>>the emp but it is going slow. I suppose that it isn't unusual for a
>>project to take much longer than planned. Now that I am done sniveling,
>>a question: When I countersink, I have been using the trial and error
>>method, (on scrap) to get the proper depth using the micro countersink
>>tool from Cleveland tools. Is there a quicker way to set the gauge?
>>
>>Rick L
>>N512RM - reserved
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Glen Matejcek <aerobubba(at)earthlink.net> |
Hi All-
Ive put some thought into combing (SP?) the glare shield lip. Im concerned that
if my fat head were to whack a non-metallic cover, the edge of the glare shield
sheet metal would cut right through the padding and scalp me, or worse. My
tentative plan is to split some copper water pipe or aluminum tube and mount
it over the edge of the sheet metal. This in itself should cause the glare shield
to buckle before my noggin got peeled, and Im also considering padding the
tube before wrapping it in cloth. Likewise, I plan on cloth covered water
pipe insulation on the seat back weldment of my -8 to protect the rear seater.
Have any of you fine folks gone down this path?
gm
Glen Matejcek
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Glen Matejcek <aerobubba(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Exhaust Wrap (Ceramic coating) |
Hi All-
I never took themro nor do I have any first hand experience with ceramic coatings,
but something has occurred to me WRT the ceramic coated exhaust thread. What
happens to your cabin heat if you put this coating on your exhaust? I understand
that there is a difference between radiating IR and direct conduction
/ heat transfer, but I have no idea what this implies for keeping our toes warm
in the wintertime. Thoughts?
gm
Glen Matejcek
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Glare shield |
Exactly the approach I took, Glen
I used several feet of 1/2" thick wall aluminum tube, split down one side
and slid over the metal of the glare shield. Then wrapped it in some high
density foam and then with vinyl to hold the foam in place - looks nice to
boot.
Ed Anderson
RV-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
Matthews, NC
eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Glen Matejcek" <aerobubba(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RV-List: Glare shield
>
> Hi All-
>
> Ive put some thought into combing (SP?) the glare shield lip. Im
> concerned that if my fat head were to whack a non-metallic cover, the edge
> of the glare shield sheet metal would cut right through the padding and
> scalp me, or worse. My tentative plan is to split some copper water pipe
> or aluminum tube and mount it over the edge of the sheet metal. This in
> itself should cause the glare shield to buckle before my noggin got
> peeled, and Im also considering padding the tube before wrapping it in
> cloth. Likewise, I plan on cloth covered water pipe insulation on the
> seat back weldment of my -8 to protect the rear seater. Have any of you
> fine folks gone down this path?
>
> gm
>
>
> Glen Matejcek
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry2DT(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Hangar Rental |
Nigel...
I asked this question of Ken Scott over at Van's, and he said: "Don't put it
in a hangar unless you could taxi it there." We have a flying RV6a hangared,
and building one in the garage, and working in the garage is soooo much
easier!!! IMO...
Jerry Cochran
Wilsonville OR
In a message dated 7/1/2005 12:04:19 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
rv-list-digest(at)matronics.com writes:
From: Nigel Goad <sirlegin(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: RV-List: Hangar Rental
My quickbuild fuselage and wings have arrived, I need a rough idea as to the
amount
of working hours until the wings are final attached so I can sort out timing
for hangar rental.
Any suggestions welcome.
Thanks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry2DT(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Exhaust wrap |
I think for the racing guys, the benefit of ceramic is largely for
turbocharged engines. The object is to conserve heat (energy) to run the compressor
stage.
Jerry Cochran
Wilsonville, OR
Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: Exhaust wrap
> Just my 02$'s worth - If you put a heat barrier on the outside of the
> exhaust pipe, the metal will run hotter than not putting a heat barrier
[snip]
> That's it - if anyone would care to comment?
There's a ton of stuff about ceramic coating and exhaust wrap in the
archives,
going back to '95. Personally after reading all of that I think KISS is the
best
principle. I'm happy with my vetterman SS exhaust system -- did have a crack
once in 670 hrs but it was easy to get off and get welded, no other
complaints.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R
Oregon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Perkinson" <bobperk(at)bellsouth.net> |
Ed,
How did you go about splitting the tube.
Bob Perkinson
Hendersonville, TN.
RV9A N658RP Reserved
If nothing changes
Nothing changes
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ed Anderson
Subject: Re: RV-List: Glare shield
Exactly the approach I took, Glen
I used several feet of 1/2" thick wall aluminum tube, split down one side
and slid over the metal of the glare shield. Then wrapped it in some high
density foam and then with vinyl to hold the foam in place - looks nice to
boot.
Ed Anderson
RV-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
Matthews, NC
eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Glen Matejcek" <aerobubba(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RV-List: Glare shield
>
> Hi All-
>
> Ive put some thought into combing (SP?) the glare shield lip. Im
> concerned that if my fat head were to whack a non-metallic cover, the edge
> of the glare shield sheet metal would cut right through the padding and
> scalp me, or worse. My tentative plan is to split some copper water pipe
> or aluminum tube and mount it over the edge of the sheet metal. This in
> itself should cause the glare shield to buckle before my noggin got
> peeled, and Im also considering padding the tube before wrapping it in
> cloth. Likewise, I plan on cloth covered water pipe insulation on the
> seat back weldment of my -8 to protect the rear seater. Have any of you
> fine folks gone down this path?
>
> gm
>
>
> Glen Matejcek
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Exhaust Wrap (Ceramic coating) |
| From: | "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> |
You would probably also want to get your EGT locations set prior to the
coating to maintain the integrity of the ceramic. You can always take
heat from an oil cooler also.
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 Tailcone
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Glen Matejcek
Subject: RV-List: Exhaust Wrap (Ceramic coating)
Hi All-
I never took themro nor do I have any first hand experience with ceramic
coatings, but something has occurred to me WRT the ceramic coated
exhaust thread. What happens to your cabin heat if you put this coating
on your exhaust? I understand that there is a difference between
radiating IR and direct conduction / heat transfer, but I have no idea
what this implies for keeping our toes warm in the wintertime.
Thoughts?
gm
Glen Matejcek
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Exhaust wrap |
| From: | "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> |
Actually, it's supposed to do a couple of things. One is to keep the
engine compartment from cooking, which has a side effect of allowing for
cooler intake temps, which means more dense intake air, which means more
HP. Second is to keep the exhaust gases hot, which keeps the exhaust
velocity up, which aids in scavenging, which means more HP.
In turbo applications, heat is bad and I believe they now coat many of
the internal turbo components with ceramics to reduce the effects of
heat soak, but it also allows the heat to remain in the exhaust gasses
which again keeps the exhaust velocity up which is good.
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 Tailcone
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Jerry2DT(at)aol.com
Subject: RV-List: Re: Exhaust wrap
I think for the racing guys, the benefit of ceramic is largely for
turbocharged engines. The object is to conserve heat (energy) to run the
compressor stage.
Jerry Cochran
Wilsonville, OR
Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: Exhaust wrap
> Just my 02$'s worth - If you put a heat barrier on the outside of the
> exhaust pipe, the metal will run hotter than not putting a heat
> barrier
[snip]
> That's it - if anyone would care to comment?
There's a ton of stuff about ceramic coating and exhaust wrap in the
archives, going back to '95. Personally after reading all of that I
think KISS is the best principle. I'm happy with my vetterman SS
exhaust system -- did have a crack once in 670 hrs but it was easy to
get off and get welded, no other complaints.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R
Oregon
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RE: Encouragement - Help |
| From: | alan(at)reichertech.com |
>
> From: "Richard Leach" <papadaddyo(at)verizon.net>
> Subject: RV-List: Encouragement - Help
>
>
> Someone please tell me that eventually all the honey do's will slow down
> and the building process will pick up. Seams that ever since the
> empennage came, the honey do list is bigger. I am making progress on
> the emp but it is going slow. I suppose that it isn't unusual for a
> project to take much longer than planned.
Well, in my case the honey-do list still exists, but my wife understands
my need to work on the big aluminum project in the basement. My holdup
came from having to move Dad after some health problems, but I've finally
gotten back to work on it. Just try to work on it a little each day if
you can. Avoid long dry spells if you can.
I'm figuring on 4 years for mine, barring any further big interruptions!
> Now that I am done sniveling,
> a question: When I countersink, I have been using the trial and error
> method, (on scrap) to get the proper depth using the micro countersink
> tool from Cleveland tools. Is there a quicker way to set the gauge?
As others have already said, get a countersink cage for each cutter size.
I do, but I also back mine off slightly when I store them. That way, the
cage is set to undercut slightly. Then, whenever I get ready to do a
countersink run, I set the first hole trial-and-error, then have at it.
Works for me.
> Rick L
> N512RM - reserved
>
--
Alan Reichert
Priv, Inst, SEL
RV-8 N927AR (reserved)
Prepping Horizontal/Vertical Stabilizers for Assembly
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Glare shield |
Hi Bob,
I put a blade in a dremel tool and laid it on a block of wood the right
height and moved it along over the tube. The metal diamond-dust-coated
little thin blades you can find at Harbor Freight worked just fine.
Ed
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Perkinson" <bobperk(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Glare shield
>
> Ed,
> How did you go about splitting the tube.
>
> Bob Perkinson
> Hendersonville, TN.
> RV9A N658RP Reserved
> If nothing changes
> Nothing changes
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ed Anderson
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Glare shield
>
>
> Exactly the approach I took, Glen
>
> I used several feet of 1/2" thick wall aluminum tube, split down one side
> and slid over the metal of the glare shield. Then wrapped it in some high
> density foam and then with vinyl to hold the foam in place - looks nice to
> boot.
>
> Ed Anderson
> RV-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
> Matthews, NC
> eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Glen Matejcek" <aerobubba(at)earthlink.net>
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: Glare shield
>
>
>>
>> Hi All-
>>
>> Ive put some thought into combing (SP?) the glare shield lip. Im
>> concerned that if my fat head were to whack a non-metallic cover, the
>> edge
>> of the glare shield sheet metal would cut right through the padding and
>> scalp me, or worse. My tentative plan is to split some copper water pipe
>> or aluminum tube and mount it over the edge of the sheet metal. This in
>> itself should cause the glare shield to buckle before my noggin got
>> peeled, and Im also considering padding the tube before wrapping it in
>> cloth. Likewise, I plan on cloth covered water pipe insulation on the
>> seat back weldment of my -8 to protect the rear seater. Have any of you
>> fine folks gone down this path?
>>
>> gm
>>
>>
>> Glen Matejcek
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Roger Embree <rembree(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Mike Shields Atlantic Crossing |
Mike has left Goose Bay and is on the way to Iceland.
http://www.ontariorvators.org
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Perkinson" <bobperk(at)bellsouth.net> |
Thanks Ed
Bob Perkinson
Hendersonville, TN.
RV9A N658RP Reserved
If nothing changes
Nothing changes
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ed Anderson
Subject: Re: RV-List: Glare shield
Hi Bob,
I put a blade in a dremel tool and laid it on a block of wood the right
height and moved it along over the tube. The metal diamond-dust-coated
little thin blades you can find at Harbor Freight worked just fine.
Ed
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Perkinson" <bobperk(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Glare shield
>
> Ed,
> How did you go about splitting the tube.
>
> Bob Perkinson
> Hendersonville, TN.
> RV9A N658RP Reserved
> If nothing changes
> Nothing changes
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ed Anderson
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Glare shield
>
>
> Exactly the approach I took, Glen
>
> I used several feet of 1/2" thick wall aluminum tube, split down one side
> and slid over the metal of the glare shield. Then wrapped it in some high
> density foam and then with vinyl to hold the foam in place - looks nice to
> boot.
>
> Ed Anderson
> RV-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
> Matthews, NC
> eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Glen Matejcek" <aerobubba(at)earthlink.net>
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: Glare shield
>
>
>>
>> Hi All-
>>
>> Ive put some thought into combing (SP?) the glare shield lip. Im
>> concerned that if my fat head were to whack a non-metallic cover, the
>> edge
>> of the glare shield sheet metal would cut right through the padding and
>> scalp me, or worse. My tentative plan is to split some copper water pipe
>> or aluminum tube and mount it over the edge of the sheet metal. This in
>> itself should cause the glare shield to buckle before my noggin got
>> peeled, and Im also considering padding the tube before wrapping it in
>> cloth. Likewise, I plan on cloth covered water pipe insulation on the
>> seat back weldment of my -8 to protect the rear seater. Have any of you
>> fine folks gone down this path?
>>
>> gm
>>
>>
>> Glen Matejcek
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Encouragement - Help |
In a message dated 7/3/05 1:43:22 PM Pacific Daylight Time, walter(at)tondu.com
writes:
> Speaking of time, I got my Airworthiness Cert. today after two dedicated
> years of building
And I got mine last fall after ten years of building interspersed with lots
of honey do's, moving from one side of the country to the other, etc., etc.,
and it is worth every damn minute it took!
Harry Crosby
RV-6 N16CX, 98 hours and heading to Arlington next week if the weather Gods
smile.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | FW: RV6A wings on Ebay |
| From: | "Zeidman, Richard B" <richard.b.zeidman(at)boeing.com> |
Subject: RV6A wings on Ebay
RV Listers-
For any of you real slow builders. I just listed my wings and main
landing gear from my RV6A on ebay. You can find it under ebay motors,
aircraft, projects/experimental. The outboard 24 inches of the left wing
was damaged in a forced landing last month. The right wing and LG appear
to be OK.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=63679&
item=4560188651&rd=1&ssPageName=WDVW
If you are interested and have any questions, I can be reached at
richpatzeidman(at)comcast.net or richard.b.zeidman(at)boeing.com.
Thanks,
Rich
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Glasgow" <willfly(at)carolina.rr.com> |
Has anyone else had problems with the Grand Rapids EIS 4000 cutting out?
Three times in less than 2 years mine has completely shut down (blank
screen). The fix so far has been to un-plug both wiring plugs on the back
of the instrument and plug back in.
What gives? Help!
Steve Glasgow
N123SG RV-8
Cappy's Toy (220 hours)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Oldsfolks(at)AOL.COM |
I did my RV-4 shield with aluminum tube,split as above, and pop riveted at
each end. I then painted to match the rest of the interior.
Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X
A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
Charleston,Arkansas
Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling2(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Glare shield |
Fabric shops sell molding already made for this for just a couple of bucks.
Its all in the archives somewhere.
Shemp/Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, N915JD
200 hours
Chicago/Louisville
----- Original Message -----
From: "Glen Matejcek" <aerobubba(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RV-List: Glare shield
>
> Hi All-
>
> Ive put some thought into combing (SP?) the glare shield lip. Im
> concerned that if my fat head were to whack a non-metallic cover, the edge
> of the glare shield sheet metal would cut right through the padding and
> scalp me, or worse. My tentative plan is to split some copper water pipe
> or aluminum tube and mount it over the edge of the sheet metal. This in
> itself should cause the glare shield to buckle before my noggin got
> peeled, and Im also considering padding the tube before wrapping it in
> cloth. Likewise, I plan on cloth covered water pipe insulation on the
> seat back weldment of my -8 to protect the rear seater. Have any of you
> fine folks gone down this path?
>
> gm
>
>
> Glen Matejcek
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Glen Matejcek <aerobubba(at)earthlink.net> |
Thanks, Ed
Glen Matejcek
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Glen Matejcek <aerobubba(at)earthlink.net> |
Thanks Mike
Glen Matejcek
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rv6fly <rv6fly(at)bresnan.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Need advice on wood props. |
DEAN PSIROPOULOS wrote:
>
>I decided I would do my first flights with a wood prop and fly with one for
>a while before spending the big bucks on something metal. I was going to
>order a new one but have recently come across two used props that can be had
>for very good prices and supposedly will work on my airplane. Problem is,
>I'm not 100% sure they'll work on my plane and I don't know anything about
>wood props so I'm not sure if I'm looking at good deals or worthless junk.
>So any listers familiar with wood props that could give me some advice would
>be appreciated.
>
>
>Dean Psiropoulos
>RV-6A N197DM
>Cowling and wiring
>
>
Dean,
I'd vote against your plan. First, I'd be nervous about buying any
wood prop without knowing everything there is to know about the prop.
The prop with the glued in inserts would be a big no-no to me. I
started out with a Props, Inc. wood prop on my RV6. A beautiful prop
but not pitched to give me the performance I was after. I sent it in 2
times to be re-pitched. Of course a more accurate statement would be
"re-shaped". When a metal prop is re-pitched, that is exactly what
happens. The airfoil shape of the prop remains the same. The angle of
attack of the prop airfoil is changed. When a wood prop is "re-pitched"
wood is removed and the prop shape changes as does the airfoil shape. I
finally put on the Sensenich.
Another thing we found out when trying to order a duplicate wood prop
is that it was really hit and miss. I helped a RV6A guy rebuild his
airplane after an "uh-oh" and he ordered a prop identical to the one
destroyed from Warnke. Airplane performance was nowhere close to what
it was with the previous prop and, after shipping the prop back & forth
a couple of times, it still didn't come close to the original prop.
I would go with the Sensenich prop built for RV's. Advantages in no
particular order of importance: you only have to fit the spinner once,
you don't have to figure weight and balance again, prop can easily and
repeatably be re-pitched and you can fly through precip without worrying
about the prop eroding.
One thing I would recommend to you (or any RVer) would be to have the
prop dynamically balanced. I did this on both my wood prop and my
Sensenich. The Props Inc. prop didn't take much weight to balance but
the Sensenich did. The Sensencih balanced perfectly statically but was
quite rough when compared to my balanced wood prop so I had it
dynamically balanced as well. I took two, #4 bolts, 4 large area
washers and 2 nuts in the ring gear to balance.
Bob Skinner RV6 (sold) (also built a Glasair and helped with 2 Glastar
projects and 4 or 5 RV projects)
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Dube <bdube(at)al.noaa.gov> |
| Subject: | Re: lockwashers on Odyssey battery terminals? |
You should use "Belleville Washers". These are spring washers that
are shaped like a shallow cone. As the lead post slowly flows out from
under the bolt, the Belleville washer maintains the clamping force on the
connection. "Wave" type spring washers also work.
Put in "Belleville" in the search box at McMaster Carr
http://www.mcmaster.com/
At 12:29 AM 7/2/2005, you wrote:
>
>Ok, ignorant question....does anybody see a need to add a lockwasher to
>the battery terminal bolts? My PC-680 battery just came with a plain
>washer for each bolt, but no lockwasher. Seems like everything else on
>an airplane uses some sort of lockwasher, cotter pin, or self locking
>nut, so I'm wondering if this is an exception? No point in adding it if
>it ain't needed though....
Bill Dube'
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hal Kempthorne <hal_kempthorne(at)sbcglobal.net> |
There is a little computer in there with software. A bug has appeared and the
system has crashed. Reboot by shutting off the power and turning it back on.
Software needs a little work as it has been sent down some path to nowhere.
Hal Kempthorne
RV6-a Debonair sold!
Steve Glasgow wrote:
Has anyone else had problems with the Grand Rapids EIS 4000 cutting out?
Three times in less than 2 years mine has completely shut down (blank
screen). The fix so far has been to un-plug both wiring plugs on the back
of the instrument and plug back in.
What gives? Help!
Steve Glasgow
N123SG RV-8
Cappy's Toy (220 hours)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Hood" <hoodcom(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: acoustical and thremal insuluation |
I have been lurking, actually reading with great interest just about all of the
contrubutions to this list since I started building . I am working on the fuse
(RV-7) of what will become a great aircaft. Most all of my questions have
been answered, and I might add with great variety and detail...thanks to all!
The reason for this letter is related to noise, and cold but mostly noise, I live
in Texas. I have done a little research:
1) EAA Sport Aviation March, 2005, Aircraft Acoustics, in my opinion not much
meat.
2) George and Becki Ordodorf www.fly-gbi.com/FirewallInsulation.htm
3) http://soundproofing.org/ and a free booklet, free is always good, http://www.supersoundproofing.biz/index.html on this page scroll down to How to Soundproof Light Aircaft
Maybe I have just missed it, oor maybe the weight penalty is just to much, oor
we all just love our ANR headsets, but I have read little, on this subject,, on
this list,, which by the way is made up of the most astute pilots in the world!
So, to conclude, How about some real world knowledge from the best and brightest,
the only reason I say my plane is going to be great is because I read this
list, and learn, learn,learn.....thanks
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Rolling the Rudder Leading Edge |
Hi all,
I have spent several hours trying to get the rolled leading edge of my rudder
right. I used a 3/4" piece of electrical conduit. I started by rolling the
entire thing in one piece. Had some difficulty getting the tape even all the
way down. The part near the top worked fine with minimal hassel. Was
eventually able to get the middle section shaped properly but am having a very
difficult time with the lowest section. It is almost as if their is insufficient
metal to make a smooth bend, meeting in the middle.
At any rate, once I got everything curled, then stretching it to meet in the
middle was difficult and the edges are curled under--failing to make a nice
overlap.
Suggestions on this?
Regards,
Michael Wynn
RV-8, Empennage
San Ramon, California
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming(at)sigecom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: acoustical and thremal insuluation |
Bill, I got mine from Flightline Interiors. Cockpit floor is foam material
that absorbs sound of exhaust and the firewall insulation cuts the heat and
noise. Here is contact info.
http://my.execpc.com/~erdmannb/
I am just a happy customer of theirs. I turn the noise canceling part of my
Lightspeeds off and do not find the noise uncomfortable. I liked it that
way during my phase 1 tests so I could hear the engine better in case it
made any funny or not so funny sounds. There are still some unpleasant
sounds however when working off of turf runways/taxiways due to it not being
smooth and the oil canning sound.
Indiana Larry, RV7 Tip Up It Flies
>
> I have been lurking, actually reading with great interest just about all
> of the contrubutions to this list since I started building . I am
> working on the fuse (RV-7) of what will become a great aircaft. Most all
> of my questions have been answered, and I might add with great variety and
> detail...thanks to all!
>
> The reason for this letter is related to noise, and cold but mostly noise,
> I live in Texas. I have done a little research:
>
> 1) EAA Sport Aviation March, 2005, Aircraft Acoustics, in my opinion
> not much meat.
> 2) George and Becki Ordodorf www.fly-gbi.com/FirewallInsulation.htm
> 3) http://soundproofing.org/ and a free booklet, free is always
> good, http://www.supersoundproofing.biz/index.html on this page scroll
> down to How to Soundproof Light Aircaft
>
> Maybe I have just missed it, oor maybe the weight penalty is just to much,
> oor we all just love our ANR headsets, but I have read little, on this
> subject,, on this list,, which by the way is made up of the most astute
> pilots in the world!
>
> So, to conclude, How about some real world knowledge from the best and
> brightest, the only reason I say my plane is going to be great is because
> I read this list, and learn, learn,learn.....thanks
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: acoustical and thremal insuluation |
On 5 Jul 2005, at 19:46, Bill Hood wrote:
>
> I have been lurking, actually reading with great interest just
> about all of the contrubutions to this list since I started
> building . I am working on the fuse (RV-7) of what will become a
> great aircaft. Most all of my questions have been answered, and I
> might add with great variety and detail...thanks to all!
>
> The reason for this letter is related to noise, and cold but mostly
> noise, I live in Texas. I have done a little research:
>
> 1) EAA Sport Aviation March, 2005, Aircraft Acoustics, in my
> opinion not much meat.
> 2) George and Becki Ordodorf www.fly-gbi.com/
> FirewallInsulation.htm
> 3) http://soundproofing.org/ and a free booklet, free is
> always good, http://www.supersoundproofing.biz/index.html on
> this page scroll down to How to Soundproof Light Aircaft
>
> Maybe I have just missed it, oor maybe the weight penalty is just
> to much, oor we all just love our ANR headsets, but I have read
> little, on this subject,, on this list,, which by the way is made
> up of the most astute pilots in the world!
>
> So, to conclude, How about some real world knowledge from the best
> and brightest, the only reason I say my plane is going to be great
> is because I read this list, and learn, learn,learn.....thanks
>
>
I don't have any specific recommendations, but one thing to keep in
mind is flammability. I bought some BK14100 acoustic and thermal
insulation from Wicks, and was quite distressed to see that it really
burnt when I touched it with the flame from a propane torch. It
burned very quickly, with lots of thick black smoke. It eventually
self-extinguished after I removed the flame, but it took some time.
I'm looking for something else to put in my aircraft.
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Painting the canopy |
<>
Mike,
I wondered the same thing as I want to paint the inside of the windscreen
the hide the fiberglass molding. This is not quite the same situation as I
will just use black and don't need to match a color.
Anyway, I bought some satin black Krylon Fusion spray paint at Walmart and
tried it on some scraps. It doesn't need a primer. It dried quickly but took
about a week to set up hard. There were no apparent changes to the Plexi.
I even called the toll free number on the can and asked the representative if
there were any problems painting Plexiglas. Although his answer wasn't all
that convincing, "there shouldn't be a problem", I plan to use it.
Bob Trumpfheller
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "flynlow" <flynlow(at)usaviator.net> |
| Subject: | acoustical and thremal insuluation |
Has anyone every used the spray can foam insulation? Does it harm or protect
aluminum? Just Curious.
Bud Silvers
Black Forest, Colorado
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bill Hood
Subject: Re: RV-List: acoustical and thremal insuluation
I have been lurking, actually reading with great interest just about all of
the contrubutions to this list since I started building . I am working on
the fuse (RV-7) of what will become a great aircaft. Most all of my
questions have been answered, and I might add with great variety and
detail...thanks to all!
The reason for this letter is related to noise, and cold but mostly noise, I
live in Texas. I have done a little research:
1) EAA Sport Aviation March, 2005, Aircraft Acoustics, in my opinion not
much meat.
2) George and Becki Ordodorf www.fly-gbi.com/FirewallInsulation.htm
3) http://soundproofing.org/ and a free booklet, free is always
good, http://www.supersoundproofing.biz/index.html on this page scroll down
to How to Soundproof Light Aircaft
Maybe I have just missed it, oor maybe the weight penalty is just to much,
oor we all just love our ANR headsets, but I have read little, on this
subject,, on this list,, which by the way is made up of the most astute
pilots in the world!
So, to conclude, How about some real world knowledge from the best and
brightest, the only reason I say my plane is going to be great is because I
read this list, and learn, learn,learn.....thanks
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 7/5/05 4:37:01 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
willfly(at)carolina.rr.com writes:
> Has anyone else had problems with the Grand Rapids EIS 4000 cutting out?
>
> I HAVE ALMOST 100 HOURS ON MINE SO FAR AND IT'S WORKING GREAT. I'D GIVE
> THEM A CALL RIGHT AWAY. GREG AND SANDY ARE ALWAYS EAGER TO HELP.
>
> HARRY CROSBY
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don Diehl <diehldon(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Glare shield |
The glare shield for my RV-4 was quick, simple, safe, effective and
CHEAP.
At the local upholstery shop I got a scrap of 3/16 closed cell foam,
soft enough to bend but too soft to hold its shape.
I also got a scrap of black velour.
Using a cardboard template I cut a piece of the foam to the desired
shield shape.
Then cut another, slightly larger.
I bowed the two slightly to shape and provide a bit of rigidity then
cemented them together.
The black velour was cemented on top and around the aft edge.
The cover is "secured" with a couple of pieces of double sided tape.
It's worked perfectly for more than 300 hours.
Contact me off line if you want photos.
Don Diehl
Bremerton WA
N-28EW
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com> |
Call Grand Rapids, you are apparently experiencing a very rare problem, as the
EIS (engine info system) is very reliable and I have never heard of any complaints.
There are thousands of these out there and has been around for well over
10 years with an excellent reputation for reliability.
Yes there is a micro processor in the EIS and software but not in the sense of
a PC and Windows, it is burned into the chip. The chip and code have been around
for a long time with an excellent reputation. Not sure what "path to nowhere"
means, but Greg and Sandy will hook you up. It could be anything from a bad
chip or even your harness wiring.
Again this is the most reliable experimental engine monitors around. Call GRT
and they will take care of you. They have great customer service from my experience
with them over 10 years.
Cheers George
>Subject: Re: EIS
There is a little computer in there with software. A bug has appeared and
the
system has crashed. Reboot by shutting off the power and turning it back
on.
Software needs a little work as it has been sent down some path to nowhere.
Hal Kempthorne
RV6-a Debonair sold!
Steve Glasgow wrote:
Has anyone else had problems with the Grand Rapids EIS 4000 cutting out?
Three times in less than 2 years mine has completely shut down (blank
screen). The fix so far has been to un-plug both wiring plugs on the back
of the instrument and plug back in.
What gives? Help!
Steve Glasgow
N123SG RV-8
Cappy's Toy (220 hours)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Karen and Robert Brown" <bkbrown(at)ashcreekwireless.com> |
| Subject: | Re: acoustical and thremal insuluation |
Aircraft Spruce has a free booklet (p/n 09-42755) in their catalog that discusses
the details of insulating an aircraft, giving several options. I'd recommend
starting there. On my 7A, I used the sandwich technique described in the book
and made templates to fit each area of skin in the airplane. These sandwiches
are foam/aluminum foil/foam, put together with spray on contact cement.
I will have about 2" of this material (3 or 4 sandwiches) on the firewall, about
1" everywhere else. I put it on all metal surfaces that are not occupied with
something else, including subpanel areas, behind the baggage bulkhead and
areas in the tail. Total weight to the airplane is about 10 pounds. I used the
1/4" "Super Soundproofing Sheet" foam from Spruce (p/n 42720). That makes
one "sandwich" a little thicker than 1/2" once the foil is put in. I've sprayed
contact cement lightly to the aluminum to attach these. You can still rip
em out if you want to, but they are attached more permanently than velcro. The
plane isn't flying yet, but there is an incredible difference just being inside
it and working...it's like a sound studio.
Bob Brown
RV7A - wingtip lights/waiting on engine
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Folbrecht <paulfolbrecht(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Metal bandsaw for QB kit? |
So, in the last week I have moved into my new place, setup the shop
including plumbing the air lines, building my Checkoway-esque wing
cradle, organizing tools, etc., etc., etc., and inventoried the whole
kit. I am finally starting on the empennage. Woohoo!
I have a (cheap) Ryobi 9" bandsaw which I am expecting will more or less
suck for cutting Al stock (with wood the blade wanders across three
counties). I'm wondering if I ought to invest the $200 or so for a
Harbor Freight metal bandsaw considering I'm doing a full QB kit. Will
it be worth it? If it'll only save me a few hours I'll stick with the
hacksaw. I'm making a serious effort to keep the tool budget under control.
~Paul
9A #1176
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch> |
| Subject: | Re: Painting the canopy |
Hi Mike,
Related topic - how are you attaching the canopy skirts?
I've glued on my canopy, so obviously I don't want to
drill a lot of holes in the canopy for the skirts, but
gluing on the skirts seems to be rather tricky.
The main problem I see is that there is a lot of work
done with the skirts just clecoed on, then the skirts
are removed, modified, re-clecoed, etc. Glue is kind
of a one way street.
Thanks for any hints!
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling2(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Metal bandsaw for QB kit? |
Why not try your Ryobi first. You will definitely be using it often. Just
make sure to stay way outside the line if the blade wanders. To get a good
straight edge, clamp a thick straight edge on the line and file, file away.
Takes a bit longer but you'll get good results.
Shemp/Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, N915JD
200 hours
Chicago/Louisville
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Folbrecht" <paulfolbrecht(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: RV-List: Metal bandsaw for QB kit?
>
> So, in the last week I have moved into my new place, setup the shop
> including plumbing the air lines, building my Checkoway-esque wing
> cradle, organizing tools, etc., etc., etc., and inventoried the whole
> kit. I am finally starting on the empennage. Woohoo!
>
> I have a (cheap) Ryobi 9" bandsaw which I am expecting will more or less
> suck for cutting Al stock (with wood the blade wanders across three
> counties). I'm wondering if I ought to invest the $200 or so for a
> Harbor Freight metal bandsaw considering I'm doing a full QB kit. Will
> it be worth it? If it'll only save me a few hours I'll stick with the
> hacksaw. I'm making a serious effort to keep the tool budget under
> control.
>
> ~Paul
> 9A #1176
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hal Kempthorne <hal_kempthorne(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Metal bandsaw for QB kit? |
Hi
For my 6a QB I used a table saw some - didn't have a bandsaw at that time. If
you are trying to control tool expense I'd say you are set already.
hal
RV6a 185 hours
Paul Folbrecht wrote:
So, in the last week I have moved into my new place, setup the shop
including plumbing the air lines, building my Checkoway-esque wing
cradle, organizing tools, etc., etc., etc., and inventoried the whole
kit. I am finally starting on the empennage. Woohoo!
I have a (cheap) Ryobi 9" bandsaw which I am expecting will more or less
suck for cutting Al stock (with wood the blade wanders across three
counties). I'm wondering if I ought to invest the $200 or so for a
Harbor Freight metal bandsaw considering I'm doing a full QB kit. Will
it be worth it? If it'll only save me a few hours I'll stick with the
hacksaw. I'm making a serious effort to keep the tool budget under control.
~Paul
9A #1176
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob C. " <flyboy.bob(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Metal bandsaw for QB kit? |
IMHO, for most things your existing saw should work fine.
Good Luck,
Bob
On 7/6/05, Paul Folbrecht wrote:
>
>
> So, in the last week I have moved into my new place, setup the shop
> including plumbing the air lines, building my Checkoway-esque wing
> cradle, organizing tools, etc., etc., etc., and inventoried the whole
> kit. I am finally starting on the empennage. Woohoo!
>
> I have a (cheap) Ryobi 9" bandsaw which I am expecting will more or less
> suck for cutting Al stock (with wood the blade wanders across three
> counties). I'm wondering if I ought to invest the $200 or so for a
> Harbor Freight metal bandsaw considering I'm doing a full QB kit. Will
> it be worth it? If it'll only save me a few hours I'll stick with the
> hacksaw. I'm making a serious effort to keep the tool budget under
> control.
>
> ~Paul
> 9A #1176
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hal Kempthorne <hal_kempthorne(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: acoustical and thremal insuluation |
The best sound deadener is mass such as earth, concrete or lead. Closing all little
openings helps. Applying some sort of vibration dampner to the firewall
should be a bit of a help as the firewall acts like a drum. Having one made
like the diamond plate seen around trucks would have been nice as the dimples
would dampen vibes.
hal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hal Kempthorne <hal_kempthorne(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Painting the canopy |
N67BT(at)aol.com wrote:
Anyway, I bought some satin black Krylon Fusion spray paint............ I plan
to use it.
BIG MISTAKE!
hal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Danielson" <johnd(at)wlcwyo.com> |
| Subject: | Metal bandsaw for QB kit? |
I think the Ryobi band saw will work fine.
I used a Craftsman small 3 wheel bandsaw and it worked fine building my
RV6
I did put a blade made to cut non-ferrous metal on the unit. I replaced
the blade approx. 4 times during the construction of the plane.
Make sure you lower the guide to approx. 1/4 inch above the piece to be
cut.
This will help in the blade wandering. I also used a guide made of wood
or aluminum angle c-clamped to the bed as a guide.
Hope this helps
John L. Danielson
RV-6 sold
Harmon Rocket
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Paul Folbrecht
Subject: RV-List: Metal bandsaw for QB kit?
So, in the last week I have moved into my new place, setup the shop
including plumbing the air lines, building my Checkoway-esque wing
cradle, organizing tools, etc., etc., etc., and inventoried the whole
kit. I am finally starting on the empennage. Woohoo!
I have a (cheap) Ryobi 9" bandsaw which I am expecting will more or less
suck for cutting Al stock (with wood the blade wanders across three
counties). I'm wondering if I ought to invest the $200 or so for a
Harbor Freight metal bandsaw considering I'm doing a full QB kit. Will
it be worth it? If it'll only save me a few hours I'll stick with the
hacksaw. I'm making a serious effort to keep the tool budget under
control.
~Paul
9A #1176
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Walter Tondu <walter(at)tondu.com> |
| Subject: | DAR Inspection Video |
The latest video. Boy did I have fun making this, and
getting my cert too.
http://www.rv7-a.com/videos/N447RV_DAR_Inspection.wmv
BTW, for those of you still undecided about who you want
to use for your DAR, I recommend Gary Sobek. As you
can see from the video, he's serious about the inpection
and he's definitely thorough. Not only that but you'll
learn a bunch and get some great tips too.
--
Walter Tondu
http://www.rv7-a.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bcollinsrv7a(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | Re: DAR Inspection Video |
Wow. Walter, do you do video editing for a living. This is an outstanding piece
of craftsmanship. Oh, and the plane looks good too. (g)
Bob
St. Paul
-------------- Original message --------------
>
> The latest video. Boy did I have fun making this, and
> getting my cert too.
>
> http://www.rv7-a.com/videos/N447RV_DAR_Inspection.wmv
>
> BTW, for those of you still undecided about who you want
> to use for your DAR, I recommend Gary Sobek. As you
> can see from the video, he's serious about the inpection
> and he's definitely thorough. Not only that but you'll
> learn a bunch and get some great tips too.
> --
> Walter Tondu
> http://www.rv7-a.com
>
>
Wow. Walter, do you do video editing for a living. This is an outstanding piece
of craftsmanship. Oh, and the plane looks good too. (g)
Bob
St. Paul
-------------- Original message --------------
-- RV-List message posted by: Walter Tondu
The latest video. Boy did I have fun making this, and
getting my cert too.
http://www.rv7-a.com/videos/N447RV_DAR_Inspection.wmv
BTW, for those of you still undecided about who you want
to use for your DAR, I recommend Gary Sobek. As you
can see from the video, he's serious about the inpection
and he's definitely thorough. Not only that but you'll
learn a bunch and get some great tips too.
--
Walter Tondu
http://www.rv7-a.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Metal bandsaw for QB kit? |
| From: | "Glaeser, Dennis A" <dennis.glaeser(at)eds.com> |
Lowe's, has a metal cutting blade for the 9" bandsaws (in the 'aircraft
tooling' section - where I got my cheap 9" bandsaw :-)
It works great on the light stock we need to cut. Be sure to set-up the
blade guides correctly (mine needed significant adjustment out of the
box) and position the guide as low as reasonable.
Dennis Glaeser
7A Empennage
>
So, in the last week I have moved into my new place, setup the
shop
including plumbing the air lines, building my Checkoway-esque
wing
cradle, organizing tools, etc., etc., etc., and inventoried the
whole
kit. I am finally starting on the empennage. Woohoo!
I have a (cheap) Ryobi 9" bandsaw which I am expecting will more
or less
suck for cutting Al stock (with wood the blade wanders across
three
counties). I'm wondering if I ought to invest the $200 or so
for a
Harbor Freight metal bandsaw considering I'm doing a full QB
kit. Will
it be worth it? If it'll only save me a few hours I'll stick
with the
hacksaw. I'm making a serious effort to keep the tool budget
under control.
~Paul
9A #1176
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Joseph Larson <jpl(at)showpage.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Metal bandsaw for QB kit? |
> Paul Folbrecht wrote:
>
> I have a (cheap) Ryobi 9" bandsaw which I am expecting will more or
> less
> suck for cutting Al stock (with wood the blade wanders across three
> counties). I'm wondering if I ought to invest the $200 or so for a
> Harbor Freight metal bandsaw considering I'm doing a full QB kit. Will
> it be worth it? If it'll only save me a few hours I'll stick with the
> hacksaw. I'm making a serious effort to keep the tool budget under
> control.
I have a -6A, so your milage may vary. So far, I've very heavily used
my floor-mounted drill press. If you don't have one, I really think
you'll
want one.
I use my band saw, and I'm happy I got it, but it doesn't get used as
often as the drill press.
As others have suggested, you could try the Ryobi, but the reason to
use a band saw is to get better cuts than you'd get with a hack saw.
It sounds like that's NOT the results you get with the Ryobi. My
personal feeling is that you don't want to be cursing the tools you
are using. If the tool doesn't work properly, don't use it.
I can't comment on a modern QB kick. If you asked about an old
-6A, I'd tell you that you would want a reliable band saw. Judging by
the level of completeness of the QB, and a modern kit, I suspect you
can get by with the tools you have.
If you have any nasty cutting jobs, you could always get together
with another builder in your area with other tools.
-Joe
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Metal bandsaw for QB kit? |
| From: | "" <tx_jayhawk(at)excite.com> |
Paul, I'm a firm believer in you need the right tools for the job. Having said that, the ryobi w/ 9" metal bandsaw will work. It will go through excessive amounts of blades (and won't cut straight), but it will work. If you have an extra $150 lying around, I would highly recommend the Harbor Freigh metal bandsaw. Works 10x better in my opinion. Scott7A Fuse here in 2 weeks--- On Wed 07/06, Paul Folbrecht paulfolbrecht(at)yahoo.com wrote:From: Paul Folbrecht [mailto: paulfolbrecht(at)yahoo.com]To: rv-list(at)matronics.comDate: Wed, 06 Jul 2005 09:29:05 -0500Subject: RV-List: Metal bandsaw for QB kit?-- RV-List message posted by: Paul Folbrecht So, in the last week I have moved into my new place, setup the shop including plumbing the air lines, building my Checkoway-esque wing cradle, organizing tools, etc., etc., etc., and inventoried the whole kit. I am finally starting on the empennage. Woohoo!I have a (cheap) Ryobi 9" bandsaw which I am expecting will more or less
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob C. " <flyboy.bob(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Metal bandsaw for QB kit? |
Paul,
One tool that I use more than I thought I would is the ScotchBrite Wheel .
. . I got mine from Van's . . . they're not inexpensive . . . but I've found
that when cutting something out with either snips or the bandsaw . . . I'll
err on the side of leaving the cut a little generous and then dress it up on
the Belt/Disc Sander and/or the ScotchBrite Wheel.
Regards,
Bob
On 7/6/05, Paul Folbrecht wrote:
>
>
> So, in the last week I have moved into my new place, setup the shop
> including plumbing the air lines, building my Checkoway-esque wing
> cradle, organizing tools, etc., etc., etc., and inventoried the whole
> kit. I am finally starting on the empennage. Woohoo!
>
> I have a (cheap) Ryobi 9" bandsaw which I am expecting will more or less
> suck for cutting Al stock (with wood the blade wanders across three
> counties). I'm wondering if I ought to invest the $200 or so for a
> Harbor Freight metal bandsaw considering I'm doing a full QB kit. Will
> it be worth it? If it'll only save me a few hours I'll stick with the
> hacksaw. I'm making a serious effort to keep the tool budget under
> control.
>
> ~Paul
> 9A #1176
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hal Kempthorne <hal_kempthorne(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Painting the canopy |
Clag on any old stuff, why should I care?
Cee Bailey's Aircraft Plastics of Long Beach provides a list of solvents that damage
acrylic plastic windows. Plexiglas is acrylic and so are our canopies.
I just looked at a dozen rattle cans to see what solvents are used in those paints.
**ALL** contained one or more of the solvents on that list. Most commonly
are xylene, acetone and toluene.
Google-ing, I found one experienced person who said most alcohols are destructive.
Another said never use solvent based paints (he means organic solvents).
Another recommended water based acrylic paint. Laquer thinner is bad as is MEK
and carbon tet. I guess gasoline is too since it contains benzene. Finally,
vinyl products release a gas that is destructive so no vinyl glare shield covers.
Just because the acrylic is not damaged immediately does not mean it won't craze
or crack in the future. I don't understand people who will slop on unknown
goop on something as expensive in dollars and labor.
Hal Kempthorne
RV6-a N7HK 185 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Folbrecht <paulfolbrecht(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Metal bandsaw for QB kit? |
I've got one of those. I went with teh Avery kit w/some extras. (And
got a Tatco squeezer instead of their cause it's way better and I have
no pnuematic squeezer.)
Bob C. wrote:
>
>Paul,
> One tool that I use more than I thought I would is the ScotchBrite Wheel .
>. . I got mine from Van's . . . they're not inexpensive . . . but I've found
>that when cutting something out with either snips or the bandsaw . . . I'll
>err on the side of leaving the cut a little generous and then dress it up on
>the Belt/Disc Sander and/or the ScotchBrite Wheel.
> Regards,
>Bob
>
> On 7/6/05, Paul Folbrecht wrote:
>
>
>>
>>So, in the last week I have moved into my new place, setup the shop
>>including plumbing the air lines, building my Checkoway-esque wing
>>cradle, organizing tools, etc., etc., etc., and inventoried the whole
>>kit. I am finally starting on the empennage. Woohoo!
>>
>>I have a (cheap) Ryobi 9" bandsaw which I am expecting will more or less
>>suck for cutting Al stock (with wood the blade wanders across three
>>counties). I'm wondering if I ought to invest the $200 or so for a
>>Harbor Freight metal bandsaw considering I'm doing a full QB kit. Will
>>it be worth it? If it'll only save me a few hours I'll stick with the
>>hacksaw. I'm making a serious effort to keep the tool budget under
>>control.
>>
>>~Paul
>>9A #1176
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "George Inman" <ghinman(at)mts.net> |
| Subject: | Fuel inj. exhaust heat muff |
I have a O-360 with Bendix
fuel inj. in my RV-8
The vetterman exhaust supplied by Van's
is the type that crossovers behind the throttle unit
The problem is that there is no straight tailpipe
long enough for a heat muff.
What have others done to supply cabin heat.
GEORGE H. INMAN
ghinman(at)mts.net
CELL 204 799 7062
HOME 204 287 8334
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | CBRxxDRV(at)aol.com |
Check out www.garmin.com
The new Garmin-396 with XM-weather.
Just thought I would pass this along, I was on the site earlier and
triped over this. Looks like a 196/296 but XM-able.
Gee looks like it came out for OshKosh :)
RV-4
RV-8 QB .... Fuselage (canoe)
Sal Capra
Lakeland, FL
My Home Page
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "George Inman" <ghinman(at)mts.net> |
| Subject: | Bolts for Bendix throtle unit |
I need to know what bolts to use
to bolt the bendix throttle unit to the
oil pan,and the filter box to the throttle unit?
These are coarse thread and AN bolts
do not work.Also I would like to find
bolts with drilled head for safety wire.
GEORGE H. INMAN
ghinman(at)mts.net
CELL 204 799 7062
HOME 204 287 8334
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: acoustical and thremal insuluation |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Karen and Robert Brown" <bkbrown(at)ashcreekwireless.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: acoustical and thremal insuluation
>
>
> Aircraft Spruce has a free booklet (p/n 09-42755) in their catalog that
> discusses the details of insulating an aircraft, giving several options.
> I'd recommend starting there. On my 7A, I used the sandwich technique
> described in the book and made templates to fit each area of skin in the
> airplane. These sandwiches are foam/aluminum foil/foam, put together with
> spray on contact cement. I will have about 2" of this material (3 or 4
> sandwiches) on the firewall, about 1" everywhere else. I put it on all
> metal surfaces that are not occupied with something else, including
> subpanel areas, behind the baggage bulkhead and areas in the tail. Total
> weight to the airplane is about 10 pounds. I used the 1/4" "Super
> Soundproofing Sheet" foam from Spruce (p/n 42720). That makes one
> "sandwich" a little thicker than 1/2" once the foil is put in. I've
> sprayed contact cement lightly to the aluminum to attach these. You can
> still rip em out if you want to, but they are attached more pe!
> rmanently than velcro. The plane isn't flying yet, but there is an
> incredible difference just being inside it and working...it's like a sound
> studio.
>
> Bob Brown
> RV7A - wingtip lights/waiting on engine
Bob,
You may want to investigate some other attachment method than spray on
contact adhesive. My experience is that it does not hold up well against
the firewall. In fact, I've re-attached the insulation on my RV-6 firewall
a couple of times over the course of 300 and something flight hours.
Standing on my head in the footwell re-attaching insulation ranks about a 10
on the misery index...
KB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | DAR Inspection Video |
Walter:
Thanks for the plug.
I did not know that I am that FAT. I knew that Dave Richardson was video
taping but did not know he taped that much. As you can tell, I concentrate
on my inspection as much as I do when I fly formation.
I want everyone to know that the airplane is built as well as the video was
done.
I am going to forward a copy of the video to my mother.
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
1,694 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.rvproject.com
----Original Message Follows----
From: Walter Tondu <walter(at)tondu.com>
Subject: RV-List: DAR Inspection Video
Date: Wed, 6 Jul 2005 11:48:33 -0400
The latest video. Boy did I have fun making this, and
getting my cert too.
http://www.rv7-a.com/videos/N447RV_DAR_Inspection.wmv
BTW, for those of you still undecided about who you want
to use for your DAR, I recommend Gary Sobek. As you
can see from the video, he's serious about the inpection
and he's definitely thorough. Not only that but you'll
learn a bunch and get some great tips too.
--
Walter Tondu
http://www.rv7-a.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | linn walters <lwalters2(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Metal bandsaw for QB kit? |
Paul (and other bandsaw owners), a bandsaw that's set up right won't
wander .... unless it's a really cheap ..... and I don't think the Ryobi
fits that category. Look at the head, where the guide wheels are, and
you'll see three screws, two at the side and one at the back. These set
the 'track' of the bandsaw blade. Different blades will have different
thicknesses, and the screws on the side will push the guide bars in
towards the blade to 'straighten' it up. The screw at the back of the
blade is used to keep the sawblade teeth out of those guide bars! So, a
little tweaking here and there should remove the wandering from your
bandsaw. Take your time and do not overtighten.
Linn
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <tomvelvick(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Arlington NW EAA airshow |
Katie and I are up here at Arlington for the NW EAA fly in. The front that came
through last night kept a lot of rvs away. We go in last night around 4pm and
it started raining on us before we got unpacked. There are only 3 rvs in the
rv parking area now. There were a lot more but they were all members of the
local Blackjack squadron and left in the afternoon. They did a very nice formation
flyover.
The hottest thing I have seen here today is the Garmin 396. Its a 296 on steroids.
It has a built in XM radio, so it has the music etc and also shows real
time weather from the XM on the screen both in graphical and text format. It
was so neat to pull up the current Metar or forecast for any airport you put your
cursor over. It also has a current winds aloft screen that overlays the terrain
or you can see it by elevation. The cursor really moves fast over the
screen unlike my Garmin GPS III pilot that takes a long time. The screen is a
lot brighter than the 296 screen. It also receives data from the Garmin 330
so can display traffic. It also has the approaches built in.
Current Weather, Music, Traffic, Terrain and Obstructions
all in one handheld for $2500. Supposed to be shipping by Oshkosh or soon after.
Oh, it also shows all the current TFRs on the terrain screen and you can click
on them and read the data about them. No more missing a TFR cause it happened
after the last time you checked. This handheld sets a new standard. Wonder if
anyone else will come up with anything close at Oshkosh?
Also Chuck and Jerry were demonstrating their new Trio Avionics altitude hold.
Way cool. Supposed to be shipping real soon.
Seattle Avionics was showing their new Voyager flight planning software and offering a competitive discount to change over from your current software. We have been using Destination Direct for several years but they seem to not be doing any updates anymore so decided to switch to the Voyager software. http://www.seattleavionics.com/products.shtml
Regards,
Tom and Katie in Arlington
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Henry Hochberg <aeroncadoc(at)comcast.net> |
The 396 is on display at the Arlington airshow. I didn't go into the
booth but they have a big sign advertising to come in and have a
look-see. I'll pop in on Sat and give a report if it's reportable type
stuff.
Plenty of RV's on hand at opening day. A RV-10 came up from Van's in OR.
Weather was poopy though so attendance was down.
Henry H.
CBRxxDRV(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>Check out www.garmin.com
>The new Garmin-396 with XM-weather.
>
>Just thought I would pass this along, I was on the site earlier and
>triped over this. Looks like a 196/296 but XM-able.
>Gee looks like it came out for OshKosh :)
>
>
>RV-4
>RV-8 QB .... Fuselage (canoe)
>
>
>Sal Capra
>Lakeland, FL
> My Home Page
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Painting the canopy |
hal_kempthorne(at)sbcglobal.net writes:
<>
Well, that got my attention.
hal_kempthorne(at)sbcglobal.net writes:
<>
This is exactly why I value this list so much. I try to research unknowns,
reduce them down, and try to arrive at some sort of logical conclusion. I
sure don't want to do any clagging -- so all info and opinions from you folks
are indeed welcome.
I do wonder though why a large company that develops and produces a paint,
especially for plastic, would not have thought of the ramifications of
application to acrylic.
I also wonder how we get away with applying epoxy resin directly to the
windscreen without historical consequences. It contains benzyl alcohol, TETL,
TETL with phenol/formaldehyde, hydroxybenzene, and many other chemicals. Are
these not a factor?
Thanks Hal, I'll take another look at this.
I think you care.
Bob Trumpfheller
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jason Beaver <jason(at)jasonbeaver.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Metal bandsaw for QB kit? |
The other thing to look at is the blade tension spring. If the
spring is worn, it won't put the correct tension on the blade even if
the blade tension adjustment screw is set appropriately for the blade
width. A blade that is too loose will not only wander, but will slip
on the drive wheel.
jason
On Jul 6, 2005, at 5:45 PM, linn walters wrote:
>
> Paul (and other bandsaw owners), a bandsaw that's set up right won't
> wander .... unless it's a really cheap ..... and I don't think the
> Ryobi
> fits that category. Look at the head, where the guide wheels are, and
> you'll see three screws, two at the side and one at the back.
> These set
> the 'track' of the bandsaw blade. Different blades will have
> different
> thicknesses, and the screws on the side will push the guide bars in
> towards the blade to 'straighten' it up. The screw at the back of the
> blade is used to keep the sawblade teeth out of those guide bars!
> So, a
> little tweaking here and there should remove the wandering from your
> bandsaw. Take your time and do not overtighten.
> Linn
>
>
> --
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Nick Nafsinger" <nick(at)creteaviation.com> |
I hope it's as nice as it looks.... Ordered mine this morning. I'll
give a full report as soon as it is in my hands.
Which I guess means my 196 is now for sale, anyone interested?
Nick
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Henry Hochberg
Subject: Re: RV-List: Garmin -396
The 396 is on display at the Arlington airshow. I didn't go into the
booth but they have a big sign advertising to come in and have a
look-see. I'll pop in on Sat and give a report if it's reportable type
stuff.
Plenty of RV's on hand at opening day. A RV-10 came up from Van's in OR.
Weather was poopy though so attendance was down.
Henry H.
CBRxxDRV(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>Check out www.garmin.com
>The new Garmin-396 with XM-weather.
>
>Just thought I would pass this along, I was on the site earlier and
>triped over this. Looks like a 196/296 but XM-able.
>Gee looks like it came out for OshKosh :)
>
>
>RV-4
>RV-8 QB .... Fuselage (canoe)
>
>
>Sal Capra
>Lakeland, FL
> My Home Page
>
>
>
>
--
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Marty" <martorious(at)earthlink.net> |
"'RV-8 List \(Yahoo\)'" ,
"'RV-8 List \(Matronics\)'"
| Subject: | RV Grinning (finally!) |
Ok, it's past my bedtime, but I couldn't shut down for the night
without sharing my GRIN!
It all started when I finally found time to make my first EAA Chapter
1311 meeting tonight, (running an hour late after following the wrong
directions and finding myself at Indianapolis (IND) instead of
Hendricks Co (2R2) where I was supposed to be, but that's another
story). I made my 'fashionably late' entrance and enjoyed the end of
a presentation by a local insurance agent talking about the various
permutations of aircraft insurance (very informative, but legalese is
not my native language ).
After a break for pizza, we sat down to a home video of several
chapter members doing volunteer work at Oshkosh helping to set up for
Airventure. During the video I got a tap on the shoulder and the
magic question "Would you like to go fly?" posed to me. I looked at
Jon Byrum with what must have been a look of joy that could have only
been topped if he had told me I had won the lottery, which as far as I
was concerned I had. He led me to the only experimental on the ramp,
an absolutely gorgeous RV-7A that was built by him and Vern Sullenger.
After the customary once over of where to step and where to place
hands (I've been on the lists long enough to know that the canopy is a
no-no for hand hold, so thanks guys for the education!) I was finally
sitting in an RV. We started up and taxied out for a great sunset
flight over Central Indiana. We weren't in a hurry, so an easy climb
to 4500 as we turned westward to see the last of the pink horizon
start to dim, the city lights and vehicle traffic going about their
business so far below. He set trim as we leveled off and settled in
to a cruise of 168 knots and he handed over the controls. Let me add
that I don't have my private ticket yet, in fact I've only taken my
introductory flight in a Cessna 152, so that is my only point of
reference. As I've heard so many times before, the controls are light
and very responsive. If I even thought about banking or changing
pitch it seemed the plane moved despite the fact that I was sure the
stick hadn't moved. I guess I was more anxious about handling someone
else's plane with my 0 hours, because I handed control back over to
him without a fight as we turned back for the airport. After a
greaser of a touchdown, he taxied up to the ramp and let me out. He
taxied back out and took off, waggling his wings at me as I stood
there and gawked with a major grin plastered on my face.
Many thanks to Chapter 1311 and especially Jon Byrum for an evening
that I'll never forget, which is eventually going to cost me around
40-50,000 dollars and about five years of my life! But it'll be worth
it as long as I have my very own RV when I'm done.
Sorry for the long post, but I had to put it in words while the
feeling was fresh, although I doubt I'll forget it anytime soon.
Marty Puckett
(Dang, my cheeks are going to be sore in the morning!)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Tablesaw? Was Metal bandsaw for QB kit? |
Hi Hal,
I read your note on the bandsaw discussion. I am a long-time woodworker just
learning metal craft. I bought a non-ferrous saw blade for my powermatic 66.
Worked really well on the rudder and elevator stiffeners. I was trimming
another piece, got a kickback that sliced up about three fingers. Been very
cautious about using the blade again. What's been your experience with the
tablesaw? Any tips for keeping my fingertips?
Regards,
Michael Wynn
RV-8, Empennage
San Ramon, California
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rv6n6r(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | Re: Painting the canopy |
[snip]
> Google-ing, I found one experienced person who said most alcohols are
> destructive.
[and snip again]
Years ago there was discussion on this list regarding what isand isn't ok to
use on plexi. Isopropyl alcohol and Naptha came up from solid sources as the
two 'safe' things to use. I have used both at one time or another with no apparent
ill effects then, or now, 7 years after doing the canopy. Not necessarily
authoritative but it's one more data point.
Randall Henderson, RV-6
Hillsboro, Oregon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch> |
| Subject: | Re: Painting the canopy |
>> Google-ing, I found one experienced person who said most alcohols
>> are destructive.
>
> Years ago there was discussion on this list regarding what isand
> isn't ok to use on plexi. Isopropyl alcohol and Naptha came up from
> solid sources as the two 'safe' things to use. I have used both at
> one time or another with no apparent ill effects then, or now, 7
> years after doing the canopy. Not necessarily authoritative but it's
> one more data point. ...
Last discussion on this I recall, the safe things were the
long chain hydrocarbons, like diesel/kerosene. On Todd's
Canopies website he only says this about cleaning:
"Use products that are made for cleaning plastic. I use Novus products.
Don't use household and glass cleaners. They may and probably do contain
chemicals that attack the plastic. If there is a lot of dust on the
canopy, spraying compressed air on it works good to get most of it off."
I guess one could contact Van's and/or their canopy supplier to
get their view.
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jbs <skydweller97(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Looking for Ray Allen Stick Grip |
If anyone has the basic Ray Allen stick grip (G101
with just the push to talk button on top) that they
wayt to sell; please email me at:
skydweller97(at)yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Folbrecht <paulfolbrecht(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Metal bandsaw for QB kit? |
It's been awhile but I had adjusted the saw numerous times. Based on
all this feedback, yeah, I'm at least going to try it on Al stock.
linn walters wrote:
>
>Paul (and other bandsaw owners), a bandsaw that's set up right won't
>wander .... unless it's a really cheap ..... and I don't think the Ryobi
>fits that category. Look at the head, where the guide wheels are, and
>you'll see three screws, two at the side and one at the back. These set
>the 'track' of the bandsaw blade. Different blades will have different
>thicknesses, and the screws on the side will push the guide bars in
>towards the blade to 'straighten' it up. The screw at the back of the
>blade is used to keep the sawblade teeth out of those guide bars! So, a
>little tweaking here and there should remove the wandering from your
>bandsaw. Take your time and do not overtighten.
>Linn
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling2(at)earthlink.net> |
Can it display approaches?
Shemp
----- Original Message -----
From: "Nick Nafsinger" <nick(at)creteaviation.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Garmin -396
>
>
> I hope it's as nice as it looks.... Ordered mine this morning. I'll
> give a full report as soon as it is in my hands.
>
> Which I guess means my 196 is now for sale, anyone interested?
>
> Nick
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Henry Hochberg
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Garmin -396
>
>
> The 396 is on display at the Arlington airshow. I didn't go into the
> booth but they have a big sign advertising to come in and have a
> look-see. I'll pop in on Sat and give a report if it's reportable type
> stuff.
> Plenty of RV's on hand at opening day. A RV-10 came up from Van's in OR.
>
> Weather was poopy though so attendance was down.
>
> Henry H.
>
> CBRxxDRV(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>>
>>Check out www.garmin.com
>>The new Garmin-396 with XM-weather.
>>
>>Just thought I would pass this along, I was on the site earlier and
>>triped over this. Looks like a 196/296 but XM-able.
>>Gee looks like it came out for OshKosh :)
>>
>>
>>RV-4
>>RV-8 QB .... Fuselage (canoe)
>>
>>
>>Sal Capra
>>Lakeland, FL
>> My Home Page
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> --
>
>
> --
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Walter Tondu <walter(at)tondu.com> |
| Subject: | Re: DAR Inspection Video |
On 07/07 7:07, LarryRobertHelming wrote:
> Walter, I watched it BUT for some reason, I can't seem to terminate the
> showing of the movie. It plays over and over. I finally had to pull the
> plug to my computer to stop it. I use XP Home. Ideas?
What are you saying? You don't want to watch it over and over? :)
Have you tried to upgrade your Windows Media Player to the latest
version? There may also be a setting where by you can tell the
player to Not repeat or Loop on playback, not sure.
> Thanks for the movie all the same. Where did the background music come
> from? I'd like to buy a copy of that CD.
Artist is Bela Fleck. Can't remember the album title. Lot's
of twangy country style stuff, some good, some bad. If you have
iTunes on your pc (free download), you can sample all his music
for nada. And if you like, buy a song for a buck, not bad. I
actually have this cd though.
--
Walter Tondu
http://www.rv7-a.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Tablesaw? Was Metal bandsaw for QB kit? |
| From: | "Clinchy, Dave" <clinchd(at)losrios.edu> |
>What's been your experience with the tablesaw? Any tips for keeping my
>fingertips?
Best tip: Don't do it!
I spent many years in "the trenches" working construction, using all
types of circular saws - table, chop, skil, etc, and managed to keep all
my fingers. I thought I could use one to do cutting of alum on my
project. After several successful cuts on alum pieces I had one bad
kick-back; it kicked back so hard that it knocked my hand/arm around
behind me... I was afraid to pull my hand back in front of me and look
at it because it felt like several fingers were missing! Luckily they
were all still there, bruised and cut, but still there.
Buy a bandsaw - it's one of the best tool investments I made for
building my 7.
Dave Clinchy
7 finishing
Sacramento Ca
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hal Kempthorne <hal_kempthorne(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Painting the canopy |
Maybe Van's canopies are mde of this plastic:
"A new injection moldable acrylic multi-polymer from Cyro Industries, Rockaway,
N.J., provides superior resistance to alcohols, isopropanol, and lipids present
in blood products. This acrylic can compete in applications previously limited
to lipid-resistant PC and other non-acrylic plastics. Compared with Cyrolite
Med, Cyro's first alcohol-resistant acrylic, Cyrolite Med 2 boasts even better
alcohol and lipid resistance, plus improved clarity, impact, ductility, and
optics after gamma sterilization. Cyrolite Med 2 has a low density of 1.08 g/cc
and offers excellent processability for molding complex and thin-walled parts,
Cyro claims. It is amenable to solvent bonding or ultrasonic welding and
can be sterilized by gamma, E-beam, and ethylene oxide methods."
Also I notice that Cee Bailey Plastics actually names methyl and ethyl alcohol
and does not mention isopropyl which is rubbing alcohol.
Kerosene is okay if you must have something cheap.
hal
rv6n6r(at)comcast.net wrote:
Isopropyl alcohol and Naptha came up from solid sources as the
two 'safe' things to use. I have used both at one time or another with no apparent
ill effects then, or now, 7 years after doing the canopy.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Cook" <Dugcook(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Metal bandsaw for QB kit? |
Paul,
I'm well into my RV-7A Q-Build and have gotten by quite well with a hand hacksaw.
I have also used a Sears 3/8 electric drill for the whole project. I attended
an RV builders clinic and didn't see the benefit in a high speed, loud, and expensive
air drill that I used there. The 3/8 drill is the way to go.
Doug - RV-7A in progress in San Diego
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "George Inman" <ghinman(at)mts.net> |
| Subject: | Metal bandsaw for QB kit? |
So why can't you get a metal cutting blade for
the Ryobi? They are available in most sizes.
> So, in the last week I have moved into my new place, setup the shop
> including plumbing the air lines, building my Checkoway-esque wing
> cradle, organizing tools, etc., etc., etc., and inventoried the whole
> kit. I am finally starting on the empennage. Woohoo!
>
> I have a (cheap) Ryobi 9" bandsaw which I am expecting will more or less
> suck for cutting Al stock (with wood the blade wanders across three
> counties). I'm wondering if I ought to invest the $200 or so for a
> Harbor Freight metal bandsaw considering I'm doing a full QB kit. Will
> it be worth it? If it'll only save me a few hours I'll stick with the
> hacksaw. I'm making a serious effort to keep the tool budget under
> control.
>
> ~Paul
> 9A #1176
GEORGE H. INMAN
ghinman(at)mts.net
CELL 204 799 7062
HOME 204 287 8334
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Blomgren" <jackanet(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Fuel inj. exhaust heat muff |
George,
I had similar problem with a Vetterman on an IO-360 (180) for my -8. I
Swapped exhaust back to Van's for a 2nd Vetterman (also a crossover type)
but which might have slightly different straights and bends. I finally got
two heat muffs on, one, way forward on right side that impinges a short
distance onto two exhanust bends. The other muff sits crossways at back
left side. One of many challenges to problem solving (skill?). Hang in
there.
Jack, #80815
molding gear intersection fairings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | al.herron(at)Aerojet.com (Herron, Al) |
| Subject: | Re: Metal bandsaw for QB kit? |
You may find that the bandsaw will work just fine, I wish I had one.
You usually don't want to cut to the final dimension anyway, that's
what files and Scotchbrite wheels are for. My solution for cutting all
of the narrow stock (bars, tubes, etc.) was to purchase a cutoff miter
("chop") saw from China Depot, er, Home Depot, that was on sale for
about $90. I replaced the wood blade with a metal cut-off wheel. Makes
cutting angles pretty easy.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Exhaust Wrap (Ceramic coating) |
Glen:
Your right, with ceramic coating will have little if any heat off the heat muff
for cabin heat. This may be the single reason, if only one reason for not doing
the coating thing, but it is very much an issue since we use exhaust heat to
warm the cabin. Using oil cooler for heat, OK. How is that going to work thermodynamically
BTU wise, not to mention the engineering of the system. My guess
is the 1000F off the exhaust pipe has more heating capacity than the oil cooler
at 200-250F.
I would imagine having the coating start and stop in the heat muff area would be
a no no. With the lack of continuity in coating you would have a hot spot and
thermal stresses from different metal temps.
Cheers George
Match: #4 Message: #131849 Date: Jul 04, 2005 From: Glen Matejcek <aerobubba(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Exhaust Wrap (Ceramic coating)
Hi All-
I never took themro nor do I have any first hand experience with ceramic coatings,
but something has occurred to me WRT the ceramic coated exhaust thread. What
happens to your cabin heat if you put this coating on your exhaust? I understand
that there is a difference between radiating IR and direct conduction
/ heat transfer, but I have no idea what this implies for keeping our toes warm
in the wintertime. Thoughts?
gm
Glen Matejcek
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kevin Williams" <kevinsky18(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Straight Pipes On a IO-360 |
In the spirit of Experimental Aircraft. I wanted to ask is there a
performance gain / loss to building a custom set of straight pipes that
either protrude directly out the left and right side of the cowling or
follow a relatively straight path out the bottom of the cowling.
I understand with at the actual muffler piece its going to be a fair bit
louder in the cockpit. But would you see any performance gains do to a
straighter flow and no or limited back pressure?
Kevin
Yellowknife, NT, Canada
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Exhaust Wrap (Ceramic coating) |
| From: | "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> |
George,
You're right about the heat muff. Not only is it probably not practical but
I doubt they even could as it would probably be extremely difficult to "mask"
an area inside the pipe. As far as the oil cooler for heating goes, most of the
pusher crowd use this arrangement very well for cabin heat. With them you
have to worry about getting the oil from the back of the aircraft to the front
which introduces the possibility of a burst oil line in the cockpit. With us
conventional crowd you could still keep the cooler in the engine compartment
and build a shroud around it with a waste gate to divert overboard when not in
use.
Probably not practical for smaller engines but if you have an oil cooler anyway
it might not be much more work and it is a lot safer than taking it off the
exhaust.
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 Tailcone
________________________________
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com
Subject: RV-List: Re: Exhaust Wrap (Ceramic coating)
Glen:
Your right, with ceramic coating will have little if any heat off the heat muff
for cabin heat. This may be the single reason, if only one reason for not doing
the coating thing, but it is very much an issue since we use exhaust heat to
warm the cabin. Using oil cooler for heat, OK. How is that going to work thermodynamically
BTU wise, not to mention the engineering of the system. My guess
is the 1000F off the exhaust pipe has more heating capacity than the oil cooler
at 200-250F.
I would imagine having the coating start and stop in the heat muff area would be
a no no. With the lack of continuity in coating you would have a hot spot and
thermal stresses from different metal temps.
Cheers George
Match: #4 Message: #131849 Date: Jul 04, 2005 From: Glen Matejcek <aerobubba(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Exhaust Wrap (Ceramic coating)
Hi All-
I never took themro nor do I have any first hand experience with ceramic coatings,
but something has occurred to me WRT the ceramic coated exhaust thread. What
happens to your cabin heat if you put this coating on your exhaust? I understand
that there is a difference between radiating IR and direct conduction
/ heat transfer, but I have no idea what this implies for keeping our toes warm
in the wintertime. Thoughts?
gm
Glen Matejcek
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Folbrecht <paulfolbrecht(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Brainstorming - priming/drying a lot of parts at once |
I would like to prime all my empennege parts in one session (shooting
AFS primer) for efficiency. Planning on doing this on Sat. Been
thinking about various ways to hang/set the parts to dry.. compliction
is that some parts can be easily hung from a wire and some can't. Would
welcome any ideas from those that have done this. I have plenty of space.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stan Jones" <stan.jones(at)xtra.co.nz> |
| Subject: | RV 7 Access Panel |
On my RV 7 Slider I am looking to get better access to some of the four
module I need to install
under the front deck. AFS Analog module, Lightspeed, etc.
I am considering building an access panel in the front deck, over the 7108A
centre rib, between
the F7107 L and R, about 16 inches wide by 10 inches deep
I would recess the panel, secure it with flush screws and nutplates, and add
a bit of RTV to
keep the weather out.
Has anyone tried this before, and how did they go about it ? A picture can
replace
a thousand words.
Stan Jones.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Brainstorming - priming/drying a lot of parts at once |
| From: | "Frank J. Simutis" <fjslaw(at)earthlink.net> |
I built a simple wooden frame, about 3 by 6, and stapled chicken wire to it,
and laid the entire thing horizontally on top of one of the boxes that the
empennage parts came in. I then laid the parts on it, primed them, and as
each part dried I turned it over. It dried quickly so it went quickly. It
worked great.
--
Frank J. Simutis
> From: Paul Folbrecht <paulfolbrecht(at)yahoo.com>
> Reply-To:
> Date: Thu, 07 Jul 2005 15:22:19 -0500
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: Brainstorming - priming/drying a lot of parts at once
>
>
> I would like to prime all my empennege parts in one session (shooting
> AFS primer) for efficiency. Planning on doing this on Sat. Been
> thinking about various ways to hang/set the parts to dry.. compliction
> is that some parts can be easily hung from a wire and some can't. Would
> welcome any ideas from those that have done this. I have plenty of space.
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | RV 7 Access Panel |
Stan,
I highly recommend these access panels on a RV-7 slider and make them as big
as the space will allow. Here is a picture of mine:
http://home.bellsouth.net/p/s/community.dll?ep=87&subpageid=148121&ck
Let me know if you need more detail and I will send you pictures direct.
Pat Hatch
RV-6
RV-7
On my RV 7 Slider I am looking to get better access to some of the four
module I need to install
under the front deck. AFS Analog module, Lightspeed, etc.
I am considering building an access panel in the front deck, over the 7108A
centre rib, between
the F7107 L and R, about 16 inches wide by 10 inches deep
I would recess the panel, secure it with flush screws and nutplates, and add
a bit of RTV to
keep the weather out.
Has anyone tried this before, and how did they go about it ? A picture can
replace
a thousand words.
Stan Jones.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Joseph Larson <jpl(at)showpage.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Brainstorming - priming/drying a lot of parts at once |
I made a "table" from window screen material (bought a roll of it
from the hardware store) and set a bunch of parts on that. I cleaned
them as I put them on the screen, keeping track of the part numbers
and where they were on the screen. Spray one side and allow to dry.
Use a sharpie to copy part numbers back on, then flip 'em all over
and spray the other sides.
For the empennage, this works. It won't work on future kits, as
there are just too many parts, but you could modify accordingly.
-Joe
On Jul 7, 2005, at 3:22 PM, Paul Folbrecht wrote:
>
>
> I would like to prime all my empennege parts in one session (shooting
> AFS primer) for efficiency. Planning on doing this on Sat. Been
> thinking about various ways to hang/set the parts to dry.. compliction
> is that some parts can be easily hung from a wire and some can't.
> Would
> welcome any ideas from those that have done this. I have plenty of
> space.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Walter Tondu <walter(at)tondu.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV 7 Access Panel |
On 07/08 8:44, Stan Jones wrote:
>
> On my RV 7 Slider I am looking to get better access to some of the four
> module I need to install
> under the front deck. AFS Analog module, Lightspeed, etc.
> I am considering building an access panel in the front deck, over the 7108A
> centre rib, between
> the F7107 L and R, about 16 inches wide by 10 inches deep
> I would recess the panel, secure it with flush screws and nutplates, and add
> a bit of RTV to
> keep the weather out.
> Has anyone tried this before, and how did they go about it ? A picture can
> replace
> a thousand words.
Lots of people have done this.
See entries beginning on 5/19/04 on this page.
http://www.rv7-a.com/tipup_canopy.htm
See Dan's website too.
http://rvproject.com
--
Walter Tondu
http://www.rv7-a.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Straight Pipes On a IO-360 |
On 7 Jul 2005, at 15:46, Kevin Williams wrote:
>
>
> In the spirit of Experimental Aircraft. I wanted to ask is there a
> performance gain / loss to building a custom set of straight pipes
> that
> either protrude directly out the left and right side of the cowling or
> follow a relatively straight path out the bottom of the cowling.
>
> I understand with at the actual muffler piece its going to be a
> fair bit
> louder in the cockpit. But would you see any performance gains do
> to a
> straighter flow and no or limited back pressure?
Kevin,
Straight pipes exiting the side of the cowling would almost certainly
greatly disturb the airflow, and add a lot of drag. You would need
to realize a very large horsepower increase just to keep the same
speed, in my opinion. So I don't think that is the way to go.
The CAFE Foundation did some exhaust system research a few years
ago. They tested several different exhaust system configurations,
gathering data of pressure at the exhaust port vs crankshaft
position. Ideally, the pressure would be low at the exhaust ports
during the time that the exhaust valve is open, to help savenge the
exhaust gasses from the cylinder. They didn't measure horsepower,
but in theory their results should give some clues as to what
configuration is best. They concluded that a 4-into-1 configuration
was the best bet.
See:
http://www.cafefoundation.org/aprs/epg.pdf
http://www.cafefoundation.org/aprs/EPG%20PART%20IV.pdf
The first document describes test method, and explains the theory,
and the second document summarizes the results. They reference an
earlier study of tuned exhaust systems that they did, which was
published in the November 1980 Sport Aviation. I'd love to get a
copy, if anyone has it in their collection.
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stan Jones" <stan.jones(at)xtra.co.nz> |
| Subject: | RV 7 Access Panel |
Thanks Pat. So, two panels, that looks a lot better than one. Much more
rigid.
What did you make the panels from, it looks like about 40 thou ?. If so you
would need to pack
the nutplate ring down?
Love the front view of your Prop. That looks a real mean air thrasher.
Any other info. on these panels would be appreciated.
Stan Jones
-------Original Message-------
From: Pat Hatch
Date: 07/08/05 09:53:21
Subject: RE: RV-List: RV 7 Access Panel
Stan,
I highly recommend these access panels on a RV-7 slider and make them as big
as the space will allow. Here is a picture of mine:
http://home.bellsouth.net/p/s/community.dll?ep87&subpageid148121&ck
Let me know if you need more detail and I will send you pictures direct.
Pat Hatch
RV-6
RV-7
On my RV 7 Slider I am looking to get better access to some of the four
module I need to install
under the front deck. AFS Analog module, Lightspeed, etc.
I am considering building an access panel in the front deck, over the 7108A
centre rib, between
the F7107 L and R, about 16 inches wide by 10 inches deep
I would recess the panel, secure it with flush screws and nutplates, and add
a bit of RTV to
keep the weather out.
Has anyone tried this before, and how did they go about it ? A picture can
replace
a thousand words.
Stan Jones.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <chaztuna(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Brainstorming - priming/drying a lot of parts at once |
Paul,
I Etched, Alodined and epoxy primed all my parts. I did nearly every part (including
my 1 piece wing skins) using coat hanger or mechanics wire to suspend them.
I chose this method for several reasons. It allowed me to dip the parts in
the etch and Alodine solutions, rinse them off and hang them up to dry. The
next day I was able to prime them without having to touch or handle the actual
part.
During construction, I had marked each part with a Sharpie pen. Prior to etch,
Alodine and prime, I washed all the parts off with lacquer thinner & a ScotchBrite
pad. I purchased a batch of ID tags from McMaster Carr to transfer the identification
markings. Since the lacquer thinner removed the Sharpie pen markings.
These tags are manilla cardboard cards with safety wire attached. I transferred
the ID markings to the tags. The tags were then attached to the coat hangers.
In this manner, I was able to dip and prime all my parts without handling them
prior or during priming. Recently a number of listers have commented about "fish
eye" problems during priming. The oil on your skin can cause this sort of
problem. Since I went to the trouble of cleaning the parts prior to Alodining
and priming, I decided that suspending the parts from coat hangers would insure
that I could handle them without touching the parts. It also allowed me to prime
ALL the sides of every piece during a single paint session.
The next day, after the primer had dried, I cut each part off the coat hangers
and transferred the ID markings back onto the parts with my Sharpie pen. I can
send you photos of how I did this off list, if you request it.
Hope this helps.
Charlie Kuss
---- Paul Folbrecht wrote:
>
> I would like to prime all my empennege parts in one session (shooting
> AFS primer) for efficiency. Planning on doing this on Sat. Been
> thinking about various ways to hang/set the parts to dry.. compliction
> is that some parts can be easily hung from a wire and some can't. Would
> welcome any ideas from those that have done this. I have plenty of space.
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | RV 7 Access Panel |
Stan,
I made mine of .032 alum, including the doublers. I used #6 screws with
dimpled nutplates. If you are going to use a gasket or RTV, I would suggest
a shim between the forward deck skin and the doublers, perhaps .025.
Thanks!
Pat
Thanks Pat. So, two panels, that looks a lot better than one. Much more
rigid.
What did you make the panels from, it looks like about 40 thou ?. If so you
would need to pack
the nutplate ring down?
Love the front view of your Prop. That looks a real mean air thrasher.
Any other info. on these panels would be appreciated.
Stan Jones
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gordon or Marge Comfort" <gcomfo(at)tc3net.com> |
| Subject: | Brainstorming - priming/drying a lot of parts at once |
I would like to prime all my empennege parts in one session (shooting
AFS primer) for efficiency. Planning on doing this on Sat. Been
thinking about various ways to hang/set the parts to dry.. compliction
is that some parts can be easily hung from a wire and some can't. Would
welcome any ideas from those that have done this. I have plenty of
space.
Paul: I was unable to get small parts to hold still on a screen table
when painting with a regular touch up gun. Ended up making several
rectangular frames out of CPVC water pipe and fittings which, when
equipped with 3/16 eyebolts and J hooks enabled wiring parts in place
web fashion using 20 gauge black wire from the hardware store. This
enables all over painting in one session by turning the frames. I hang
them from a suitable point for spraying and then set them aside to dry.
If you build them you will use them many times, including for finish
paint. You can spread the elevator/rudder skins for priming the insides
for example. I expect to apply finish paint to things like floorboards
and side panels using them. I spray the wired parts with xylene and
wipe with lint free cloths before applying paint. I've used mil-p23377
primer, self etching primer and Imron paint this way. Your paint may
need a different materials approach but the mechanics could be similar.
Gordon Comfort
N363GC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "c.ennis" <c.ennis(at)insightbb.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Straight Pipes On a IO-360 |
As I understand it, crossover pipes are one way of "tuning" exhaust
systems...in an effort to equalize backpressure among the cylinders.
Vetterman exhausts seem to be the ultimate compromise, considering the
limited space to work with under the cowl. As an afterthought, limited
experiance with drag bikes tells me you might encounter sizable problems
getting a carburated or injected fuel system to take advantage of an open
exhaust system..
"Change one thing and all the domino's fall over."
Charlie Ennis
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Nick Nafsinger" <nick(at)creteaviation.com> |
Yes, it displays Approaches. BUT! It only displays from the FAF
inbound. Garmin did it that way to keep people from flying a full
instrument Approach with it. That being said, I flew it a LOT without a
IFR GPS and found that my situational awareness was increased
tremendously.
Nick
Park Rapids Avionics
301 Airport Rd.
Hwy 71 South
Park Rapids, MN
218.255.2768
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff Dowling
Subject: Re: RV-List: Garmin -396
Can it display approaches?
Shemp
----- Original Message -----
From: "Nick Nafsinger" <nick(at)creteaviation.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Garmin -396
>
>
> I hope it's as nice as it looks.... Ordered mine this morning. I'll
> give a full report as soon as it is in my hands.
>
> Which I guess means my 196 is now for sale, anyone interested?
>
> Nick
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Henry
Hochberg
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Garmin -396
>
>
> The 396 is on display at the Arlington airshow. I didn't go into the
> booth but they have a big sign advertising to come in and have a
> look-see. I'll pop in on Sat and give a report if it's reportable type
> stuff.
> Plenty of RV's on hand at opening day. A RV-10 came up from Van's in
OR.
>
> Weather was poopy though so attendance was down.
>
> Henry H.
>
> CBRxxDRV(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>>
>>Check out www.garmin.com
>>The new Garmin-396 with XM-weather.
>>
>>Just thought I would pass this along, I was on the site earlier and
>>triped over this. Looks like a 196/296 but XM-able.
>>Gee looks like it came out for OshKosh :)
>>
>>
>>RV-4
>>RV-8 QB .... Fuselage (canoe)
>>
>>
>>Sal Capra
>>Lakeland, FL
>> My Home Page
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> --
>
>
> --
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club" <sisson(at)consolidated.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV 7 Access Panel |
I put one of these panels in my RV6. I am flying but not painted yet.
mine is just like the one on the right side of Pat's RV7. It gives me
access to the rear of the avionics. I only put one in. I also have
removable panel sections, so I can access almost everything that I have
installed. I have already needed this access back before I flew, I had
to make an avionics change and it was well worth the time to put it in.
I have thought about putting one on the other side but I really dont
have anything over there that cant be got to by pulling the instrument
panel out on that side... I would definitly do it again. and Pat, those
pictures are great. I made mine about as big as I could go while
allowing for the flange that they scew to. Over all, I would say that
this could be done in 3 or 4 hours at the most. I also did not put the
center console bracket in, so I have a little easier access to behind
the firewall if need be (Brakes or what ever)...
Phil in Illinois RV6 N181RV
Pat Hatch wrote:
>
>Stan,
>
>I highly recommend these access panels on a RV-7 slider and make them as big
>as the space will allow. Here is a picture of mine:
>
>http://home.bellsouth.net/p/s/community.dll?ep=87&subpageid=148121&ck
>Let me know if you need more detail and I will send you pictures direct.
>
>Pat Hatch
>RV-6
>RV-7
>
>
>On my RV 7 Slider I am looking to get better access to some of the four
>module I need to install
>under the front deck. AFS Analog module, Lightspeed, etc.
>I am considering building an access panel in the front deck, over the 7108A
>centre rib, between
>the F7107 L and R, about 16 inches wide by 10 inches deep
>I would recess the panel, secure it with flush screws and nutplates, and add
>a bit of RTV to
>keep the weather out.
>Has anyone tried this before, and how did they go about it ? A picture can
>replace
>a thousand words.
>Stan Jones.
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | sportav8r(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | P-mag installation report |
Many of my fellow rvators have expressed interest in my impressions and experience
with E-mag since I received my mags last month. Here's an update on my not-yet-flying
installation.
I started the job this past Saturday, removing the Slick mags and associated wiring
and installing the wires and switching hardware for the dual P-mags per Bob
Nuckoll's drawing Z-33, which I followed to the letter. Lots of drilling,
pulling wire, on my back under the panel kind of work. The first hitch I encountered
was Saturday night, when I broke a brass adapter in a spark plug hole.
Amazingly, Brad Dement was in the shop on a Texas Saturday evening, building
E-mags for impatient customers, and promised to rush a replacement to me as soon
as possible. The Independence Day holiday put a crimp in that, but I digress...
This is a good place to interject a warning to anyone else taking delivery of their
Emags soon, if you are converting to automotive plugs: do not follow the
instructions for torqueing the adapters first to 25 ft-lbs. At least one of the
adapters is bound to fail. Install the spark plug into the adapter with anti-seize
first, then insert the whole assembly into the cylinder and torque to
15 ft-lbs. Stop there. The plug's steel barrel will support the brass reducer
and prevent it form tearing along the threads as the torque value is reached.
My 14-to-18mm adapter yielded at about 20 ft-lbs and proceeded to split and unwind
about 3/4 turn along the thread line, about 1/3 of the way down from the hex
shoulder. When I felt this happen, I was able to back it out and inspect it.
Given my impatient nature, and since the brass was all still in one piece,
I elected to try reinstalling it with the plug inserted, and it seems to have
done fine at 15 ft-lbs, but I will replace it with a new onebefore flying .
Hope the old reducer comes out in one piece next time like it did the first :-)
Last night was time to install the P-mags themselves in the accessory case and
set the timing, and a most interesting time it was. I was unprepared for the
frustration of trying to install the mags in their holes with new gaskets. The
gaskets kept slipping out of position, and the mags were so tight in the holes
that when seated enough to engage the gear teeth, they were impossible to turn
by hand to dial in the timing. Applying a thick grease film helped keep the
gaskets in place, but did almost nothing to make the P-mags easier to horse
around in the holes. Nothing short of rocking the mags loose in the holes would
free them enough to adjust the timing, so the result was always a huge overshoot
and loss of the precious "green light" LED signal that the timing was right-on.
Never have conventional mags behaved this way for me.
It helped to discover that the mags each needed to rotate the same way the prop
did to recapture the timing mark. I would secure the mag, rock the prop till
the green light came on, then look at where the timing mark was, figure out which
way the mag needed to be repositioned, and try again. Most frustrating of
all was the dozens of times the green light would be on while the mag was in
the clamps finiger-tight, only to see the light go out as the hardware was tightened
down. I struggled with this task for over two hours, and in retrospect
I think I should have taken a file to the aluminum P-mag body to create a little
slack in the fit. I hated the thought of defiling (sorry!) the nice red
anodized finish, even where it would never show. As I wrote to Brad Dement today,
a "wrench" cut from hardwood, large enough to grab the flats on the body
of the P-mag (3 inches wide?) would have helped leverage the mags into final alignment,
if there was enough room to get a grip on t
hem between all the FWF obstacles, which is questionable. I strongly advised
him to machine the next production run a few thousandths narrower and avoid all
this frustration, but at least you, my friends, are hereby warned.
Tonight, raining though it was outside, was time to try 'em out. I put all the
tools away and cleaned up the shop area around the prop arc. Reviewed instructions
on handling the ignitions; I'm looking at all new switches here, new layout,
no labels yet, no turn-key-to-start. Master... boost... prime... mixture...throttle
set... R and L ignitionswitches full-up to BATT position, push the
start toggle up, and - she catches on the first blade and purrs like a kitten.
WOW! Turbine smooth. Tach is reading correctly, no need to adjust the tach
pulse switches to get the correct reading; that's a relief. The GRT EIS seems
happy; all readings are nominal. Run-up and mag check: butter-smooth to 1700
rpm, equal drop on both sides, both switches briefly off and she dies right
away; switches up again and she recovers. Switches halfway down to the on (self-powered)
position and she runs like nothing's amiss: the P-mag internal dynamo
function is taking over for the "loss" of ship'
s power. Yesssss! Feeding throttle in, there's nary a stumble or hesitation.
Pull back to idle, incredibly smooth. Even running on one ignition at a time,
the engine sounds different, stronger somehow, more confident. Yessir, I will
have no hesitation about the upcoming test flights; she sounds really good,
the best she's ever felt. I remember the same sensation after the dynamic balancing
was done, but this takes "smooth" to yet another level.
Last night I admit I was fantasizing about shoving Brad's pointy little head (I
bet in reality he's a big, brawny Texan) into a mag hole and tightening it down
("Tell me when you get a green light, Brad!"). Tonight I think I want to give
him a hug :-x These things are right!
More to come later, of course, when I double-check the green timing light things,
apply Loc-tite to the mag stud bolts, re-cowl, and generally get ready for
flight tests in earnest. I was going to collect some pre-P-mag numbers on Friday,
for a comparison benchmark (I have no new, hard data since a prop re-pitch
this spring) but Friday's test flight was cut short when the carb heat Bowden
cable came out an extra 6 inches in my hand in flight; shucks, it's not supposed
to do that, is it? Better land and check it out. While the cowl is off,
might as well start the P-mag install... so it happened that I have no recent
Slick Mag data to compare against for top speed. I do know my 75% cruise fuel
burn for may years has been 7.8 gph with aggressive leaning, so I can compare
fuel economy with some certainty.
Stay tuned. More to come.
/Stormy out.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobby Hester <bhester(at)hopkinsville.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV 7 Access Panel |
Stan Jones wrote:
>
>On my RV 7 Slider I am looking to get better access to some of the four
>module I need to install
>under the front deck. AFS Analog module, Lightspeed, etc.
>I am considering building an access panel in the front deck, over the 7108A
>centre rib, between
>the F7107 L and R, about 16 inches wide by 10 inches deep
>I would recess the panel, secure it with flush screws and nutplates, and add
>a bit of RTV to
>keep the weather out.
>Has anyone tried this before, and how did they go about it ? A picture can
>replace
>a thousand words.
>Stan Jones.
>
>
>
Top and near the bottom of this page:
http://members.hopkinsville.net/bhester/FinishKitAssyPg4.htm
--
Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
RV7A Slowbuild wings-QB Fuse :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Scott <rscott(at)cascadeaccess.com> |
| Subject: | RE: Brainstorming - priming/drying a lot of parts at once |
Wow! Tagging all those parts seems like a lot of work!
Priming is supposed to result in a thin coat.
I clean my parts with acetone, which removes the Sharpie part nos. As soon
as I clean a part, I re mark the number with the Sharpie.
I place the parts on a screen frame in order and spray away. The part
number still shows thru unless I spray too heavily. If the coat is too
heavy on a few parts, I can re mark them because I set them down in
order. This hasn't happened very often.
FWIW, I am using plain old zinc chromate yellow--don't ask me where I got
it as there isn't enough to go around.
Richard Scott
RV-9A
Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "glaesers" <glaesers(at)wideopenwest.com> |
| Subject: | RE: Brainstorming - priming/drying a lot of parts at once |
Here is how I did it:
http://www.wideopenwest.com/~glaesers/RV7A/Graphics/Empennage/Marking%20show
s%20through%20primer.JPG
I am using AFS paint as well, and just used the box from Vans and stuck some
finishing nails in the cardboard to hold the parts.
Dennis Glaeser
RV7A Empennage
-------------------------------------------
I would like to prime all my empennege parts in one session (shooting
AFS primer) for efficiency. Planning on doing this on Sat. Been
thinking about various ways to hang/set the parts to dry.. compliction
is that some parts can be easily hung from a wire and some can't. Would
welcome any ideas from those that have done this. I have plenty of
space.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling2(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV 7 Access Panel |
Just a comment to Walter and all the other guys who spend a lot of time
sharing their hard work with the rest of us. THANKS!! I just viewed your
web site and am very impressed. Im not surprised you had no problems with
your inspection. I was in such a hurry to get mine flying I didnt even take
pictures.
Good luck on your first flight (if you havent done it already)
Shemp/Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, N915JD
200 hours
Chicago/Louisville
----- Original Message -----
From: "Walter Tondu" <walter(at)tondu.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV 7 Access Panel
>
> On 07/08 8:44, Stan Jones wrote:
>
> >
> > On my RV 7 Slider I am looking to get better access to some of the four
> > module I need to install
> > under the front deck. AFS Analog module, Lightspeed, etc.
> > I am considering building an access panel in the front deck, over the
> > 7108A
> > centre rib, between
> > the F7107 L and R, about 16 inches wide by 10 inches deep
> > I would recess the panel, secure it with flush screws and nutplates, and
> > add
> > a bit of RTV to
> > keep the weather out.
> > Has anyone tried this before, and how did they go about it ? A picture
> > can
> > replace
> > a thousand words.
>
> Lots of people have done this.
> See entries beginning on 5/19/04 on this page.
>
> http://www.rv7-a.com/tipup_canopy.htm
>
> See Dan's website too.
>
> http://rvproject.com
>
> --
> Walter Tondu
> http://www.rv7-a.com
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Danielson" <johnd(at)wlcwyo.com> |
| Subject: | Brainstorming - priming/drying a lot of parts at once |
Don't take the time to make all those hooks to hang light weight parts
on. Go out and buy some large paper clips. They work great.
I like the chicken wire approach best.
The hanging parts will turn and fly around while you spray them.
While parts can fly off the chicken wire if your not careful they do
seem to stay in place if you do your part.
John L. Danielson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Dudley <rhdudley(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | Spin-on oil filters |
Hi Listers,
After two oil changes on a new O-320-D1A, I still don't have a good way
to control the oil that runs out of the spin-on filter as I remove it. I
have tried packing paper towels under the filter edge and the suggestion
from Lycoming of putting a plastic bag over the filter. The result has,
so far, been an unsatisfactory mess that requires soaking up the run
down with paper towels.
The second problem is in removing the filter medium from the core of the
filter after cutting the end off with an Air Wolf filter cutter. I've
tried scissors, hacksaw and sheet metal shears. All are arduous and only
semi satisfactory.
Would you share your tricks and techniques learned from experience?
Thanks in advance.
Richard Dudley
-6A 50+ hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry2DT(at)aol.com |
Actually, it appears the 396 came out for Arlington, as they were demo-ing
it there yesterday. Very impressive but $2400 and $50 a month. Great for you
daily IFR flyers out there...
Jerry Cochran
Wilsonville, OR
Subject: RV-List: Garmin -396
Check out www.garmin.com
The new Garmin-396 with XM-weather.
Just thought I would pass this along, I was on the site earlier and
triped over this. Looks like a 196/296 but XM-able.
Gee looks like it came out for OshKosh :)
RV-4
RV-8 QB .... Fuselage (canoe)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | sportav8r(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Spin-on oil filters |
Richard: I have a spin on filter remote adapter on the firewall, so mine is hanging
vertically; not much mess except what leaks out of the hoses. I tape a
plastic drop cloth piece to the firewall behind the filter mount, with the end
hanging in a 5 gal bucket to divert the runoff.
Filter media analysis is a messy story any way you cut it . I take the
media and center baffle tube out of the cut-open can and lay it on a rag. Then
a sharp snap-off knife (99 cent orange handle type) is used to cut the paper
pleats at the edges of the metal flanges, all the way down to the center metal
tube. A rocking, sawing motion helps push the blade to the bottom of the pleats.
Once this is done on both sides, the paper tears out in one long accordion
sheet quite easily (I did not say cleanly).
I usually tear the strip into 2 or 3 shorter sections and run them through a gasoline
bath (margarine bowl) to liberate the metal particles from the oily paper.
A magnet is handy for separating the ferrous from the non-ferrous particles
(there are always some of each, in a slurry at the bottom of the gasoline bath.)
I then inspect the paper on both sides in direct sunlight for any large
particles that may remain stuck. If I ever found a big sliver this way, I would
send it off for microscopic analysis at AOA.
What to make of the metal you find is another story in itself. If it;s just a
pinch, I tend to regrard that as normal and keep going, so long as the spectral
analysis looks good. I'm sure you will collect a thousand opinions here as
to what metal means and how much to tolerate finding in the filter.
-Stormy
-----Original Message-----
From: Richard Dudley <rhdudley(at)att.net>
Subject: RV-List: Spin-on oil filters
Hi Listers,
After two oil changes on a new O-320-D1A, I still don't have a good way
to control the oil that runs out of the spin-on filter as I remove it. I
have tried packing paper towels under the filter edge and the suggestion
from Lycoming of putting a plastic bag over the filter. The result has,
so far, been an unsatisfactory mess that requires soaking up the run
down with paper towels.
The second problem is in removing the filter medium from the core of the
filter after cutting the end off with an Air Wolf filter cutter. I've
tried scissors, hacksaw and sheet metal shears. All are arduous and only
semi satisfactory.
Would you share your tricks and techniques learned from experience?
Thanks in advance.
Richard Dudley
-6A 50+ hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Spin-on oil filters |
>
> Hi Listers,
>
> After two oil changes on a new O-320-D1A, I still don't have a good way
> to control the oil that runs out of the spin-on filter as I remove it. I
> have tried packing paper towels under the filter edge and the suggestion
> from Lycoming of putting a plastic bag over the filter. The result has,
> so far, been an unsatisfactory mess that requires soaking up the run
> down with paper towels.
Richard, I cut the bottom 2" or so from a gallon milk jug. It needs to be
the relatively flexible type, and I stuff it under the filter until the
forward edge comes up higher than the lower front of the filter. I also
punch a hole in the filter at the top. The sequence is important - I drain
the sump and punch this hole when the engine is hot. I go home and come
back the next day to remove the filter when it is cold, and this makes it a
LOT easier to avoid slopping oil. I then either stuff paper towels in the
milk carton to absorb the oil or suck it out with something like a basting
bulb.
>
> The second problem is in removing the filter medium from the core of the
> filter after cutting the end off with an Air Wolf filter cutter. I've
> tried scissors, hacksaw and sheet metal shears. All are arduous and only
> semi satisfactory.
Single edge razor blades.
Alex Peterson
RV6A N66AP 635 hours
Maple Grove, MN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Furey" <john(at)fureychrysler.com> |
| Subject: | Spin-on oil filters |
I think I have tried every method there is with poor results most times. Now
I take a rectangular plastic bottle and cut the bottom 1/2" off. I can slip
it up under the filter so that when I spin the filter off the plastic pan
stays in place and catches all of the oil from the filter and what comes out
of the engine. After the engine drains I remove the pan and spin on the new
filter. Never a drop anywhere. I cut the filter paper on both sides all the
way around with any old box cutter or knife and pull it out with in 1 or 2
sections.
John
RV6A O-320
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Aircraft Technical Book Company" <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Spin-on oil filters |
Richard,
Loosen the oil filter with your wrench until you can turn it by hand. Then
with a centerpunch or sharp screw driver and a hammer, punch a hole in the
side of the filter. Then turn the filter 180 degrees and let the oil drain
out of that hole into a cup. Then unscrew the filter the rest of the way.
There will still be a little mess, but it will be much more manageable. If
you want to see it being done, its a part of our Annual Inspection -
Powerplant video.
As far as getting the medium out, use a strong serrated knife and just work
at it. It is a pain in the butt, but once you do it few times, it gets
easier.
Andy
Builder's Bookstore
www.buildersbooks.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Dudley" <rhdudley(at)att.net>
Subject: RV-List: Spin-on oil filters
>
> Hi Listers,
>
> After two oil changes on a new O-320-D1A, I still don't have a good way
> to control the oil that runs out of the spin-on filter as I remove it. I
> have tried packing paper towels under the filter edge and the suggestion
> from Lycoming of putting a plastic bag over the filter. The result has,
> so far, been an unsatisfactory mess that requires soaking up the run
> down with paper towels.
>
> The second problem is in removing the filter medium from the core of the
> filter after cutting the end off with an Air Wolf filter cutter. I've
> tried scissors, hacksaw and sheet metal shears. All are arduous and only
> semi satisfactory.
>
> Would you share your tricks and techniques learned from experience?
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Richard Dudley
> -6A 50+ hours
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Pardue" <n5lp(at)warpdriveonline.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Spin-on oil filters |
autolearn=ham version=3.0.2
>
> Hi Listers,
>
> After two oil changes on a new O-320-D1A, I still don't have a good way
> to control the oil that runs out of the spin-on filter as I remove it. I
> have tried packing paper towels under the filter edge and the suggestion
> from Lycoming of putting a plastic bag over the filter. The result has,
> so far, been an unsatisfactory mess that requires soaking up the run
> down with paper towels.
>
June 26, 2005 - July 08, 2005
RV-Archive.digest.vol-ra