RV10-Archive.digest.vol-dm
June 27, 2008 - July 14, 2008
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
Q/B Kit - exited cabin top/door purgatory
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=190103#190103
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wire Brands/Types/Sources |
http://www.steinair.com/wire.htm
>
> From: "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net>
> Date: 2008/06/27 Fri AM 10:36:56 EST
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Wire Brands/Types/Sources
>
>
> I purchased the Vans basic wiring kit which as worked out so so, but I am at
the point where I need to purchase some more wire for the trim, lights, and misc
systems. Any suggestions for brands and sources. Also fire resistance.
>
> --------
> OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
> Q/B Kit - exited cabin top/door purgatory
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=190103#190103
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wire Brands/Types/Sources |
Try:
WireMasters, Inc.
Phone: 800-635-5342
good pricing and great service.
Pascal
--------------------------------------------------
From: "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net>
Sent: Friday, June 27, 2008 8:36 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Wire Brands/Types/Sources
>
> I purchased the Vans basic wiring kit which as worked out so so, but I am
> at the point where I need to purchase some more wire for the trim, lights,
> and misc systems. Any suggestions for brands and sources. Also fire
> resistance.
>
> --------
> OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
> Q/B Kit - exited cabin top/door purgatory
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=190103#190103
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wire Brands/Types/Sources |
Steinair.com
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
On Jun 27, 2008, at 11:36 AM, AirMike wrote:
>
> I purchased the Vans basic wiring kit which as worked out so so, but
> I am at the point where I need to purchase some more wire for the
> trim, lights, and misc systems. Any suggestions for brands and
> sources. Also fire resistance.
>
> --------
> OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
> Q/B Kit - exited cabin top/door purgatory
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=190103#190103
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RobHickman(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Hysol 9360 Window install update |
I installed the windows five days ago using Hysol from Lancair
_http://www.aerocraftparts.com/ItemForm.aspx?item=9360-QT_
(http://www.aerocraftparts.com/ItemForm.aspx?item=9360-QT)
and last night I had one of them just pop out when I slightly pressed on it.
I then proceeded to easily pop the other side window out. Naturally this
occurred right after I had spent the last two days fabricating and sanding the
front windshield faring. After much advice from all the neighbors we
decided to remove the front fairing and test the windshield and it popped right
out
also
I believe that the problem was caused by me not roughing up the windows near
enough on the glue joint, although I am not sure. The 9360 bonded to the
fiberglass and did not bond at all to the window. Lancair says "we have used
this for over 10 years without a problem on the windows" and that they always
rough up both surfaces with 60 grit sand paper before bonding the window.
I am now going to do a test bond on some scrap window with roughing up the
surface before I decide what to do.
The learning curve continues......
Rob Hickman
RV-10 (without windows)
**************Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for
fuel-efficient used cars. (http://autos.aol.com/used?ncid=aolaut00050000000007)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MauleDriver <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
Completed the job in 6 unhurried hours on an assembled fuselage without
the tail surfaces installed.
Drilling out the rivets was pretty easy. Sharp bits help. So does a
12" bit and an angle drill for 2 or 4 of them.
Was able to power squeeze all the doubler rivets and all the horizontal
tail deck rivets with the exception of 4. Used a hand squeezer on the 6
or 8 rivets that go into the vertical tab at the front.
Bill Watson
Durham NC
See you at Oshkosh
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Quick Question |
>
> From: "William Curtis" <wcurtis(at)nerv10.com>
> Date: 2008/06/27 Fri PM 12:29:29 EST
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Quick Question
>
>
> Rick,
>
> Did you have one (or both) of those aforementioned women do the math on your
spending?:-) Maybe they did a little "shopping" on their own.
>
Having been to Rick's place, I can confirm that they done a little shopping on
their own. :^) Of course having a burst water pipe and damaging most of the
house, didn't help at all. It's an open ticket to go spend. If it were my project,
I would have been shut done so quick. Rick is certainly a better man than
I am in this regards.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Maib <dmaib(at)mac.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Hysol 9360 Window install update |
Rob,
I was just a couple of days from bonding my windows in with Hysol 9360 when your
post came in. Needless to say, we are on hold until we get some answers here.
We are going to test some scrap materials as well, but will be very interested
in hearing how your tests come out.
Timing is Everything.
David Maib
40559
On Friday, June 27, 2008, at 11:35AM, wrote:
>
>I installed the windows five days ago using Hysol from Lancair
>_http://www.aerocraftparts.com/ItemForm.aspx?item=9360-QT_
>(http://www.aerocraftparts.com/ItemForm.aspx?item=9360-QT)
>
>and last night I had one of them just pop out when I slightly pressed on it.
>I then proceeded to easily pop the other side window out. Naturally this
>occurred right after I had spent the last two days fabricating and sanding the
>front windshield faring. After much advice from all the neighbors we
>decided to remove the front fairing and test the windshield and it popped right
out
>also
>
>I believe that the problem was caused by me not roughing up the windows near
>enough on the glue joint, although I am not sure. The 9360 bonded to the
>fiberglass and did not bond at all to the window. Lancair says "we have used
>this for over 10 years without a problem on the windows" and that they always
>rough up both surfaces with 60 grit sand paper before bonding the window.
>
>I am now going to do a test bond on some scrap window with roughing up the
>surface before I decide what to do.
>
>The learning curve continues......
>
>Rob Hickman
>RV-10 (without windows)
>
>
>
>
>**************Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for
>fuel-efficient used cars. (http://autos.aol.com/used?ncid=aolaut00050000000007)
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Hysol 9360 Window install update |
| From: | "Jim Berry" <jimberry(at)qwest.net> |
Rob,
I did my windows and windscreen with Hysol several months ago, and did scuff the
surface. Did the same with some cutoff plexi and fiberglass from the windscreen
and cabin top. After curing for 1 week I was unable to break the bond without
having the plexi break first. Good luck. I would not look forward to doing
the windows a second time.
Jim Berry
40482
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=190125#190125
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Hysol 9360 Window install update |
| From: | "Bobby J. Hughes" <bhughes(at)qnsi.net> |
Rob,
The Lancair ES I help with used a Hysol and flox mix for bonding the
windshield. Not sure if this was the approved factory method or not.
Roughed up and cleaned both surfaces. I used the same method for my
windows and they seem to be solid. I will verify tomorrow.
Bobby Hughes 40116
(Very satisfied AFS customer)
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
RobHickman(at)aol.com
Sent: Friday, June 27, 2008 10:25 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Hysol 9360 Window install update
I installed the windows five days ago using Hysol from Lancair
http://www.aerocraftparts.com/ItemForm.aspx?item=9360-QT
and last night I had one of them just pop out when I slightly pressed on
it. I then proceeded to easily pop the other side window out.
Naturally this occurred right after I had spent the last two days
fabricating and sanding the front windshield faring. After much advice
from all the neighbors we decided to remove the front fairing and test
the windshield and it popped right out also
I believe that the problem was caused by me not roughing up the windows
near enough on the glue joint, although I am not sure. The 9360 bonded
to the fiberglass and did not bond at all to the window. Lancair says
"we have used this for over 10 years without a problem on the windows"
and that they always rough up both surfaces with 60 grit sand paper
before bonding the window.
I am now going to do a test bond on some scrap window with roughing up
the surface before I decide what to do.
The learning curve continues......
Rob Hickman
RV-10 (without windows)
________________________________
Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for fuel-efficient used
cars <http://autos.aol.com/used?ncid=aolaut00050000000007> .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Saylor" <Dave(at)AirCraftersLLC.com> |
| Subject: | Hysol 9360 Window install update |
Bummer.
I used Hysol for my windshield in the joggle area and per plans for the base
fairing. We put some thin BID over the Hysol junction.
We had the same thing happen with a IV-P windshield. After much running
about and loud talking, we decided it had not cured long enough--only 24
hours. Sounds like you waited longer but if it was cool (below 70F) I might
think it didn't cure fully.
60 grit is pretty severe. 80-120 is fine. Everything has to be clean,
clean, clean. The data says use alcohol but we generally use acetone to
degrease everything just before applying the Hysol. Some people get nervous
with acetone around the windows we've never had a problem.
FWIW, Lancair puts their windows in from the inside, and lays up a pretty
thick layer of BID over the seam. That's really a better way to build it.
You get a cleaner installation but you do have to work inside.
A little heat and a dull chisel should remove the old (new?) Hysol from the
fiberglass.
Here's a fun read:
http://www.loctite.it/int_henkel/loctite/binarydata/pdf/ACF205.pdf
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA
831-722-9141
831-750-0284 CL
www.AirCraftersLLC.com
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
RobHickman(at)aol.com
Sent: Friday, June 27, 2008 9:25 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Hysol 9360 Window install update
I installed the windows five days ago using Hysol from Lancair
http://www.aerocraftparts.com/ItemForm.aspx?item=9360-QT
and last night I had one of them just pop out when I slightly pressed on it.
I then proceeded to easily pop the other side window out. Naturally this
occurred right after I had spent the last two days fabricating and sanding
the front windshield faring. After much advice from all the neighbors we
decided to remove the front fairing and test the windshield and it popped
right out also
I believe that the problem was caused by me not roughing up the windows near
enough on the glue joint, although I am not sure. The 9360 bonded to the
fiberglass and did not bond at all to the window. Lancair says "we have
used this for over 10 years without a problem on the windows" and that they
always rough up both surfaces with 60 grit sand paper before bonding the
window.
I am now going to do a test bond on some scrap window with roughing up the
surface before I decide what to do.
The learning curve continues......
Rob Hickman
RV-10 (without windows)
_____
Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for fuel-efficient used
<http://autos.aol.com/used?ncid=aolaut00050000000007> cars.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Carpenter <jeff(at)westcottpress.com> |
| Subject: | Cabin Floor Panels |
I'm at the point of riveting in the cabin floor panels and wonder if
I should hold off for any antennae or electrical run considerations.
What say you?
Jef Carpenter
40304
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Marcus Cooper" <coop85(at)cableone.net> |
| Subject: | Flightline Interiors trim |
I have installed the Flightline Interior and really like it a lot. Easy to
install and looks great. The trim around the windows also looks really
nice, however it has shrunk some and therefore pulled away from the edges
never to return.
Has anyone else had any issues like this? The edging isn't terribly
expensive but if there's something I can do to prevent this from happening
again I'd sure like to. I'll fire a message off to Abbey as well to see if
they have any guidance.
BTW, 330 hours and no cracks on the SB issue.
Marcus
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Cabin Floor Panels |
| From: | "William Curtis" <wcurtis(at)nerv10.com> |
No reason I see to hold off. You can put the transponder antenna in the tunnel
and for any belly antenna, they are typically located under the rear seats /
baggage area.
William
http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/08fuselage/index35.html
-------- Original Message --------
> X-Rcpt-To:
>
>
> I'm at the point of riveting in the cabin floor panels and wonder if
> I should hold off for any antennae or electrical run considerations.
> What say you?
>
> Jef Carpenter
> 40304
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Carpenter <jeff(at)westcottpress.com> |
| Subject: | Chrome Plating the steps |
How much should I expect to pay to have my steps chrome plated?
Jeff Carpenter
40304
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Saylor" <Dave(at)AirCraftersLLC.com> |
| Subject: | Chrome Plating the steps |
Mine were $150.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA
831-722-9141
831-750-0284 CL
www.AirCraftersLLC.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff Carpenter
Sent: Friday, June 27, 2008 2:53 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Chrome Plating the steps
How much should I expect to pay to have my steps chrome plated?
Jeff Carpenter
40304
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Chrome Plating the steps |
| From: | "Robin Marks" <robin1(at)mrmoisture.com> |
I powder coated mine as part of a batch which really reduces the
cost/unit.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Saylor
Sent: Friday, June 27, 2008 4:09 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Chrome Plating the steps
Mine were $150.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA
831-722-9141
831-750-0284 CL
www.AirCraftersLLC.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff
Carpenter
Sent: Friday, June 27, 2008 2:53 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Chrome Plating the steps
How much should I expect to pay to have my steps chrome plated?
Jeff Carpenter
40304
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Schlatterer" <billschlatterer(at)sbcglobal.net> |
Any reputable auto parts store will sell Gates Belts or can interchange the
part number. Gates is a first choice in the parts business. Specs on the
7365 at
http://www.gatespowerpro.com/Comergent/en/US/adirect/gates?cmd=catProductDet
ail
Hope this helps!
Bill S
7a Ark
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Dunne
Sent: Tuesday, June 24, 2008 5:21 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Alternator belt
Anyone know the actual length of the alternator belt to suit the standard
alternator as supplied by Vans?
I was supplied a standard belt at 37.6" (Korean made 37A19773-376) but I'm
guessing the maximum I can use is around 32-33''?
I know this was mentioned recently as a Gates number 7365 XL110925 but when
I mention these numbers around here I get blank looks.
Do these numbers somehow equate to the length of belt?
Any clues appreciated
John 40315
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Leikam" <daveleikam(at)wi.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cabin Floor Panels |
Jeff, nothing under the floors for me. Never even removed them from the
QB.
I mounted two commant antennas and ran conduit under the rear baggage floors
similar to Tim Olson and Deems Davis. Then bought an air blind rivet gun
and locked 'em all down.
PS - It's much warmer here now.
Dave Leikam
#40496 N89DA (Reserved)
Muskego, WI
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Carpenter" <jeff(at)westcottpress.com>
Sent: Friday, June 27, 2008 4:12 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Cabin Floor Panels
>
> I'm at the point of riveting in the cabin floor panels and wonder if I
> should hold off for any antennae or electrical run considerations. What
> say you?
>
> Jef Carpenter
> 40304
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: IO540 need an engine? |
| From: | "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall(at)charter.net> |
Thanks for the input Kelly and Pete.
The engine arrived yesterday with lots of documentation and of course it looks
brand new -- a little bead blasting and paint can make anything pretty, but it
looks really professionally top notch.
There will be a ton of questions eventually, but for now we've mounted it (really
only took a few minutes -- but understand the builder's warped sense of time!)
so that today we can get the cowl fitted.
A couple of beginning questions: I've read about the newer, lighter starters ...
this one has what appears to be a new starter, but how do I tell if it's old
or new style? And, are shop manuals available for this engine? At first glance
I noticed that there are 2 threaded ports on the back of each mag -- three
are open, one has a cap on it -- what are these? It has one line connected
to what looks like an intake port on one cylinder, the others are plugged ...
? I had to take the 90 elbows off the top of the vacuum pump to get it past the
engine mount -- looks like I'll have to put an extension on the forward one
to get it back on to clear the mount bar? What's the vacuum pump for? Sheesh,
so much to learn, but it's Xmas in July!
I think my partner will probably hire a Lycoming guy to do final installation,
but I'd like to learn everything about this engine. A shop manual would probably
answer these questions (and hundreds more) but I thought I'd ask here for
a quick response, and maybe point me in the direction of "how to" books for this
engine like others have recommended for basic building and flying.
The first car engine I pulled and totally rebuilt was a Jaguar V-12, so this looks
like fun to me!
Later, - Lew
--------
non-pilot
crazy about building
NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
Engine and FF due next week.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=190240#190240
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/engine_medium_107.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Chrome Plating the steps |
| From: | "William Curtis" <wcurtis(at)nerv10.com> |
Yeah, I think I paid about that much (maybe a little more but under $200) to powder
coat the steps, control sticks, rudder pedals, tie down rings AND the center
support rod by the windshield.
http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/08fuselage/fuselage38g.html
For those that are in the NorthEast area, I highly recommend TRG Coating (http://trgcoating.com/). Quality work, good prices, and quick turnaround.
William
http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/
-------- Original Message --------
> X-Rcpt-To:
>
> I powder coated mine as part of a batch which really reduces the
> cost/unit.
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Saylor
> Sent: Friday, June 27, 2008 4:09 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Chrome Plating the steps
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Mine were $150.
>
>
>
> Dave Saylor
>
> AirCrafters LLC
>
> 140 Aviation Way
>
> Watsonville, CA
>
> 831-722-9141
>
> 831-750-0284 CL
>
> www.AirCraftersLLC.com
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
>
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff
> Carpenter
>
> Sent: Friday, June 27, 2008 2:53 PM
>
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>
> Subject: RV10-List: Chrome Plating the steps
>
>
>
>
>
>
> How much should I expect to pay to have my steps chrome plated?
>
>
>
> Jeff Carpenter
>
> 40304
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Trim Tab Rigging and SB Write-Up Posted |
I finally am on the road and had my wife drive so I could finish a write
up I've had planned to show the issues with Trim Tab rigging and then a
brief summary about the Service Bulletin. I may revise it later a bit,
but here is what I have. Also, none of the other many links that I
updated are ready yet, so the only way to this page right now is by
this link:
http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/maintenance/20080622/
Feel free to discuss. I'd like to thank Bill DeRouchey for his input in
the "twisted tail" arena. I don't know that it will be a major issue
for most people, but it definitely is worth reading the link and
checking it on your own plane. If you haven't yet done the SB, just
wait until it's all assembled.
Enjoy!
--
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Trim Tab Rigging and SB Write-Up Posted |
| From: | "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> |
Tim,
That was an excellent article. You answered a lot of questions but, as always,
it brings up more questions. My first one is easy. The doubler looks like it interferes
with the longeron, but obviously it doesn't. Is it touching the longeron?
My next question is about the operation of the two trim tabs. You explanation was
excellent, but it begs the question - why two trim tabs in the first place?
I am NOT an aeronautical engineer, so I'm allowed to ask stupid questions (g).
Could we not operate with just one tab? If it is too small, could it have been
made bigger? If two tabs were necessary, why not sync them together and limit
the nose down travel (tab up) to something less?
Probably dumb questions, but it sure has been crossing my mind lately.
John
--------
#40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=190279#190279
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Trim Tab Rigging and SB Write-Up Posted |
Tim, EXCELLENT write-up & synopsis. THANKS ! I also believe that Bill
DeRouchey deserves a lot of credit for identifying the 'potential' for
problems down the road and the likely (IMO) link between trim tab
rigging and the SB. Your write up does a very good job of tying all of
this information together. To the best of my knowledge, no one that is
flying has reported any cracks, But the pictures of the 'working rivets'
in your plane further reinforce the evidence of a twisting force in the
tail. IMO compliance with the Service Bulletin should be tied to an
examination and potential re rigging of the trim tabs.
THANKS for the service you provide this community.
Deems Davis # 406
'Its all done....Its just not put together'
http://deemsrv10.com/
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "gary" <speckter(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Trim Tab Rigging and SB Write-Up Posted |
I know that I will get some flames on this, but I am not convinced that the
twisting caused by trim tab rigging is the issue. All of the other RV
series have a single trim tab on one elevator only as do many other general
aviation aircraft. Yes this does cause twisting, but not to the extent that
it should be worrisome. I suspect that there are other design issues going
on in the 10 tail and that the trim tab torque only made it show up as a
fatigue crack earlier than it normally would have if both tabs moved in
parallel.
Steady even torque is not as rough on structures as is osculating torque
such as comes from turbulence. Even the lowly beer can takes a lot of
torque but not so much bending back and forth. Additionally the bulkhead in
Van's pix looked bent to me like it was over stressed.
All I am saying is that we don't have enough info or engineering data to
make a definitive diagnosis. Many possible theories but no proof.
Gary
40274 Flying
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Saturday, June 28, 2008 2:00 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Trim Tab Rigging and SB Write-Up Posted
I finally am on the road and had my wife drive so I could finish a write
up I've had planned to show the issues with Trim Tab rigging and then a
brief summary about the Service Bulletin. I may revise it later a bit,
but here is what I have. Also, none of the other many links that I
updated are ready yet, so the only way to this page right now is by
this link:
http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/maintenance/20080622/
Feel free to discuss. I'd like to thank Bill DeRouchey for his input in
the "twisted tail" arena. I don't know that it will be a major issue
for most people, but it definitely is worth reading the link and
checking it on your own plane. If you haven't yet done the SB, just
wait until it's all assembled.
Enjoy!
--
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Trim Tab Rigging and SB Write-Up Posted |
| From: | "John Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> |
As Tim knows, I have discussed in detail with the former manager of the
VANS Proto-type shop the history of the build of N220RV. He was not
receptive to the possibility of workmanship as the cause. Seems N220RV
had quite a history on the removal and experimental research of multiple
tail designs directed by management. (Not unlike six attempts to get a
wing that worked on the RV-12). The histrionics of single tab and dual
tab were discussed in detail. Using the airframe for demos and the
repeated demonstration of stalls to John Q. Public had something to do
with it. The horizontal tips deflect 3" positive and negative with a
noticeable buffet.
Alex D has not had a problem, Mike Seager did not have a problem, so I
have concluded it is unique to N220RV. No one is mentioning the other
issue of the J stringers in contact with the frames and bulkheads.
I am following the respected advise I received and using a modified and
doubled two F-1010s back to back construction technique. Others should
be fine installing the SB patch and sleeping at night. Been to the
mountain, read the tablet, listened to Moses and returning to prayer.
There is history, engineering and information on this issue. It is not
available for public consumption. That is proof enough for me.
John Cox
40600 KUAO
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of gary
Sent: Sunday, June 29, 2008 11:09 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Trim Tab Rigging and SB Write-Up Posted
I know that I will get some flames on this, but I am not convinced that
the
twisting caused by trim tab rigging is the issue. All of the other RV
series have a single trim tab on one elevator only as do many other
general
aviation aircraft. Yes this does cause twisting, but not to the extent
that
it should be worrisome. I suspect that there are other design issues
going
on in the 10 tail and that the trim tab torque only made it show up as a
fatigue crack earlier than it normally would have if both tabs moved in
parallel.
Steady even torque is not as rough on structures as is osculating torque
such as comes from turbulence. Even the lowly beer can takes a lot of
torque but not so much bending back and forth. Additionally the
bulkhead in
Van's pix looked bent to me like it was over stressed.
All I am saying is that we don't have enough info or engineering data to
make a definitive diagnosis. Many possible theories but no proof.
Gary
40274 Flying
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Saturday, June 28, 2008 2:00 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Trim Tab Rigging and SB Write-Up Posted
I finally am on the road and had my wife drive so I could finish a write
up I've had planned to show the issues with Trim Tab rigging and then a
brief summary about the Service Bulletin. I may revise it later a bit,
but here is what I have. Also, none of the other many links that I
updated are ready yet, so the only way to this page right now is by
this link:
http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/maintenance/20080622/
Feel free to discuss. I'd like to thank Bill DeRouchey for his input in
the "twisted tail" arena. I don't know that it will be a major issue
for most people, but it definitely is worth reading the link and
checking it on your own plane. If you haven't yet done the SB, just
wait until it's all assembled.
Enjoy!
--
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com> |
| Subject: | Trim Tab Rigging and SB Write-Up Posted |
One note.....Mike Seager normally trains in N220RV, so technically he did
have a problem. When I went up for my transition training, I did it in
410RV, but Mike told me that he normally does it in N220RV but could not
because it was in the shop.......that was the end of Feb this year.
Rene' Felker
RV-10 N423CF Flying
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Cox
Sent: Sunday, June 29, 2008 2:21 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Trim Tab Rigging and SB Write-Up Posted
As Tim knows, I have discussed in detail with the former manager of the
VANS Proto-type shop the history of the build of N220RV. He was not
receptive to the possibility of workmanship as the cause. Seems N220RV
had quite a history on the removal and experimental research of multiple
tail designs directed by management. (Not unlike six attempts to get a
wing that worked on the RV-12). The histrionics of single tab and dual
tab were discussed in detail. Using the airframe for demos and the
repeated demonstration of stalls to John Q. Public had something to do
with it. The horizontal tips deflect 3" positive and negative with a
noticeable buffet.
Alex D has not had a problem, Mike Seager did not have a problem, so I
have concluded it is unique to N220RV. No one is mentioning the other
issue of the J stringers in contact with the frames and bulkheads.
I am following the respected advise I received and using a modified and
doubled two F-1010s back to back construction technique. Others should
be fine installing the SB patch and sleeping at night. Been to the
mountain, read the tablet, listened to Moses and returning to prayer.
There is history, engineering and information on this issue. It is not
available for public consumption. That is proof enough for me.
John Cox
40600 KUAO
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of gary
Sent: Sunday, June 29, 2008 11:09 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Trim Tab Rigging and SB Write-Up Posted
I know that I will get some flames on this, but I am not convinced that
the
twisting caused by trim tab rigging is the issue. All of the other RV
series have a single trim tab on one elevator only as do many other
general
aviation aircraft. Yes this does cause twisting, but not to the extent
that
it should be worrisome. I suspect that there are other design issues
going
on in the 10 tail and that the trim tab torque only made it show up as a
fatigue crack earlier than it normally would have if both tabs moved in
parallel.
Steady even torque is not as rough on structures as is osculating torque
such as comes from turbulence. Even the lowly beer can takes a lot of
torque but not so much bending back and forth. Additionally the
bulkhead in
Van's pix looked bent to me like it was over stressed.
All I am saying is that we don't have enough info or engineering data to
make a definitive diagnosis. Many possible theories but no proof.
Gary
40274 Flying
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Saturday, June 28, 2008 2:00 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Trim Tab Rigging and SB Write-Up Posted
I finally am on the road and had my wife drive so I could finish a write
up I've had planned to show the issues with Trim Tab rigging and then a
brief summary about the Service Bulletin. I may revise it later a bit,
but here is what I have. Also, none of the other many links that I
updated are ready yet, so the only way to this page right now is by
this link:
http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/maintenance/20080622/
Feel free to discuss. I'd like to thank Bill DeRouchey for his input in
the "twisted tail" arena. I don't know that it will be a major issue
for most people, but it definitely is worth reading the link and
checking it on your own plane. If you haven't yet done the SB, just
wait until it's all assembled.
Enjoy!
--
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Les Kearney <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Aileron Bellcrank Bushing Questions |
Hi
I was working on my wings today and tripped over a couple of small issues.
When filing the bellcrank bushings down to the required length, I made them
slightly undersize (2.745" rather than 2.750"). Is this going to be an issue
given that I am required to file the bellcrank tube to ensure at least 1/32
- 1/16" of the bushing is exposed?
As well, I need to ream the bushings so that an AN4 bolt will fit inside.
Reaming is new to me so I would like a little guidance as to how to ream
these bushings. What do I use to ream them?
Inquiring minds need to know
Les Kearney
#40643
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Aileron Bellcrank Bushing Questions |
| From: | "orchidman" <gary(at)wingscc.com> |
In my opinion, reamers are an essential tool. I have all but worn out a #40 and
a #30 reamer. All my match drilling was done with one of these.
To find out a little more about reamers, go to page 34 of the avery tools catalog.
http://www.averytools.com/catalog/2008%20catalog%20B.qxd.pdf
then scrole down to page 34. There is some good information about reamers and
how to use them. Since our skins are so thin, I never used any lubricant. If
I were reaming anything thicker then the diameter of the reamer, then I sure
would use a lubricant.
Off the top of my head, I don't remember what I used for the bellcrank but since
I don't have a 1/4" reamer, it must have been a sharp 1/4 drill.
--------
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
Instrument Panel, Fiberglass - SB
(N2GB registered)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=190485#190485
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kelly McMullen" <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron Bellcrank Bushing Questions |
Do you use the reamers in your air drill, or in a slower speed
cordless drill? Any thoughts as to whether it matters?
On Sun, Jun 29, 2008 at 6:56 PM, orchidman wrote:
>
> In my opinion, reamers are an essential tool. I have all but worn out a #40
and a #30 reamer. All my match drilling was done with one of these.
> To find out a little more about reamers, go to page 34 of the avery tools catalog.
> http://www.averytools.com/catalog/2008%20catalog%20B.qxd.pdf
> then scrole down to page 34. There is some good information about reamers and
how to use them. Since our skins are so thin, I never used any lubricant.
If I were reaming anything thicker then the diameter of the reamer, then I sure
would use a lubricant.
>
> Off the top of my head, I don't remember what I used for the bellcrank but since
I don't have a 1/4" reamer, it must have been a sharp 1/4 drill.
>
> --------
> Gary Blankenbiller
> RV10 - # 40674
> Instrument Panel, Fiberglass - SB
> (N2GB registered)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Marcus Cooper" <coop85(at)cableone.net> |
| Subject: | Aileron Bellcrank Bushing Questions |
Les,
Lots of good answers on the reaming question, but I have a thought for
the length of the bushing. The exact number is not as much an issue as
ensuring the bushing is slightly longer than the bellcrank. Otherwise when
you tighten the bolt you'll add drag to the movement of the bellcrank.
Marcus
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Les Kearney
Sent: Sunday, June 29, 2008 8:18 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Aileron Bellcrank Bushing Questions
Hi
I was working on my wings today and tripped over a couple of small issues.
When filing the bellcrank bushings down to the required length, I made them
slightly undersize (2.745" rather than 2.750"). Is this going to be an issue
given that I am required to file the bellcrank tube to ensure at least 1/32
- 1/16" of the bushing is exposed?
As well, I need to ream the bushings so that an AN4 bolt will fit inside.
Reaming is new to me so I would like a little guidance as to how to ream
these bushings. What do I use to ream them?
Inquiring minds need to know
Les Kearney
#40643
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Les Kearney <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Aileron Bellcrank Bushing Questions |
Thanks Ben and others.
I now have a pretty good idea of what I should do ' as much as I would
like
to buy a lathe, it does seem bit overkill for a couple of bushings.
I=92ll see
if I can track down a sharp =BC=94 drill bit that will be long enough or
perhaps
a reamer.
Cheers
Les
_____
From: Ben Westfall [mailto:ben(at)sinkrate.com]
Sent: June-29-08 9:15 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Aileron Bellcrank Bushing Questions
Les,
I cannot send to the list because the matronics server doesn=92t like my
mailserver right now. I had a compromised mail account that sent some
spam
for a couple of days. Should be cleared up tomorrow but until then
I=92ll
have to try sending this directly to you.
I used a really sharp, high quality .250=94 aircraft drill bit with lots
of
bolube (cause I had this in my stash otherwise I would have ordered a
reamer). I did the aileron bellcrank ones chucked up in a vise secured
to
the table on the drill press. There are similar bushings in the control
stick bases. For these I used the same method except I used an electric
hand drill=85 no drill press. The bit follows the hole quite nicely.
The
brass is so soft that it=92s pretty easily done w/o a reamer or a lathe.
There is no slop in any of my bushings from what I can tell but I have
not
yet flown.
I did screw up the first attempt because I forced the bit to much and it
did
not center. They are cheap ($3 a pair I think) and Van=92s is close so
for me
not an issue. With a nice sharp bit its pretty easy to do them by hand.
-Ben
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Les Kearney
Sent: Sunday, June 29, 2008 6:18 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Aileron Bellcrank Bushing Questions
Hi
I was working on my wings today and tripped over a couple of small
issues.
When filing the bellcrank bushings down to the required length, I made
them
slightly undersize (2.745=94 rather than 2.750=94). Is this going to be
an issue
given that I am required to file the bellcrank tube to ensure at least
1/32
' 1/16=94 of the bushing is exposed?
As well, I need to ream the bushings so that an AN4 bolt will fit
inside.
Reaming is new to me so I would like a little guidance as to how to ream
these bushings. What do I use to ream them?
Inquiring minds need to know
Les Kearney
#40643
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Les Kearney <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Aileron Bellcrank Bushing Questions |
Thanks Ben and others.
I now have a pretty good idea of what I should do ' as much as I would
like
to buy a lathe, it does seem bit overkill for a couple of bushings.
I=92ll see
if I can track down a sharp =BC=94 drill bit that will be long enough or
perhaps
a reamer.
Cheers
Les
_____
From: Ben Westfall [mailto:ben(at)sinkrate.com]
Sent: June-29-08 9:15 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Aileron Bellcrank Bushing Questions
Les,
I cannot send to the list because the matronics server doesn=92t like my
mailserver right now. I had a compromised mail account that sent some
spam
for a couple of days. Should be cleared up tomorrow but until then
I=92ll
have to try sending this directly to you.
I used a really sharp, high quality .250=94 aircraft drill bit with lots
of
bolube (cause I had this in my stash otherwise I would have ordered a
reamer). I did the aileron bellcrank ones chucked up in a vise secured
to
the table on the drill press. There are similar bushings in the control
stick bases. For these I used the same method except I used an electric
hand drill=85 no drill press. The bit follows the hole quite nicely.
The
brass is so soft that it=92s pretty easily done w/o a reamer or a lathe.
There is no slop in any of my bushings from what I can tell but I have
not
yet flown.
I did screw up the first attempt because I forced the bit to much and it
did
not center. They are cheap ($3 a pair I think) and Van=92s is close so
for me
not an issue. With a nice sharp bit its pretty easy to do them by hand.
-Ben
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Les Kearney
Sent: Sunday, June 29, 2008 6:18 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Aileron Bellcrank Bushing Questions
Hi
I was working on my wings today and tripped over a couple of small
issues.
When filing the bellcrank bushings down to the required length, I made
them
slightly undersize (2.745=94 rather than 2.750=94). Is this going to be
an issue
given that I am required to file the bellcrank tube to ensure at least
1/32
' 1/16=94 of the bushing is exposed?
As well, I need to ream the bushings so that an AN4 bolt will fit
inside.
Reaming is new to me so I would like a little guidance as to how to ream
these bushings. What do I use to ream them?
Inquiring minds need to know
Les Kearney
#40643
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Aileron Bellcrank Bushing Questions |
| From: | "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> |
Les,
Check out this site:
http://www.panamericantool.com/
more reamers than you can imagine.
John
--------
#40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=190519#190519
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Aileron Bellcrank Bushing Questions |
| From: | "orchidman" <gary(at)wingscc.com> |
Kelly McMullen wrote:
> Do you use the reamers in your air drill, or in a slower speed
> cordless drill? Any thoughts as to whether it matters?
>
For the skins, I used both an air drill and a cordless drill. As others have said
it doesn't matter that much. Thicker material needs the slower speeds to
get a good finish inside and to preserve the bit.
--------
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
Instrument Panel, Fiberglass - SB
(N2GB registered)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=190525#190525
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)roadrunner.com> |
| Subject: | Aileron Bellcrank Bushing Questions |
To square up the ends of bushings a lathe is not required. Chuck the bushing
in your drill press and lower it onto a file clamped on the table. You will
have to remove it several times to check the length but the ends will be
square using this method.
Albert Gardner
N991RV
Yuma, AZ
Oshkosh '08 or bust!
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Ramp to belly distance? |
| From: | "orchidman" <gary(at)wingscc.com> |
Can someone publish the ramp (garage floor) to belly distance with the gear on?
It would be really good to get the distance both with the engine on and before
it is installed.
I am in the garage with the canopy top fully trimmed but not bolted down. Standing
back and looking at the project this weekend I started looking at the distance
from the top to my garage door opener which also translates to what I will
need for clearance rolling out of the door.
I am trying to get as much of the wiring complete before I install the gear and
dont want to get surprised and stuck.
--------
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
Instrument Panel, Fiberglass - SB
(N2GB registered)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=190550#190550
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Les Kearney <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron Bellcrank Bushing Questions |
Gary
I think I'll put the bellcranks on hold for a few days and order a reamer
from Avery. I can't seem to find one locally.
Given that I am now on my QB wings and have finished the fuse to the "boat
stage" are there any other sizes of reamer that I should order at the same
time.
Thanks
Les
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of orchidman
Sent: June-29-08 7:56 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Aileron Bellcrank Bushing Questions
In my opinion, reamers are an essential tool. I have all but worn out a #40
and a #30 reamer. All my match drilling was done with one of these.
To find out a little more about reamers, go to page 34 of the avery tools
catalog.
http://www.averytools.com/catalog/2008%20catalog%20B.qxd.pdf
then scrole down to page 34. There is some good information about reamers
and how to use them. Since our skins are so thin, I never used any
lubricant. If I were reaming anything thicker then the diameter of the
reamer, then I sure would use a lubricant.
Off the top of my head, I don't remember what I used for the bellcrank but
since I don't have a 1/4" reamer, it must have been a sharp 1/4 drill.
--------
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
Instrument Panel, Fiberglass - SB
(N2GB registered)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=190485#190485
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Ramp to belly distance? |
Gary,
From waaaaaay back before when I was in the same situation, I put
this together:
http://www.myrv10.com/tips/workarea.html
Tim
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
orchidman wrote:
>
> Can someone publish the ramp (garage floor) to belly distance with the gear on?
It would be really good to get the distance both with the engine on and before
it is installed.
> I am in the garage with the canopy top fully trimmed but not bolted down. Standing
back and looking at the project this weekend I started looking at the distance
from the top to my garage door opener which also translates to what I
will need for clearance rolling out of the door.
> I am trying to get as much of the wiring complete before I install the gear and
dont want to get surprised and stuck.
>
> --------
> Gary Blankenbiller
> RV10 - # 40674
> Instrument Panel, Fiberglass - SB
> (N2GB registered)
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chuck Weyant" <chuck(at)chuckdirect.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron Bellcrank Bushing Questions |
Or a piece of 150 grit glued to a short piece of 2x4" wood.
Buy the appropriate size reamer. Clamp the bushing in a vice with soft
pine or piece of rubber between the vice and the bushing --- just enough
to keep it from spinning and hand ream it using a hand drill. Make sure
you stay plumb with the work and it'll come out just fine.
Chuck
To square up the ends of bushings a lathe is not required. Chuck the
bushing in your drill press and lower it onto a file clamped on the
table. You will have to remove it several times to check the length but
the ends will be square using this method.
Albert Gardner
N991RV
Yuma, AZ
Oshkosh '08 or bust!
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
Checked by AVG.
6/4/2008 4:40 PM
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV-10 Group Camping FAQs |
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
Questions are starting to roll in now that AirVenture is getting close.
I've compiled a lot of the common questions and answers from last year
and put them below. I'm also going to bump the RV-10 group camping
thread for ease in finding it since it contains links to the areas on
Tim's website. If you've got any other questions feel free to either
post them to the group or contact me offline.
Bob
N442PM (flying)
--------------------
What do I do when I get to OSH?
When you get close to OSH you should call Tim, Gary or I to meet you at
the Camp Scholler registration entrance. We'll already have registered
you and will have your car pass.
I'm flying in, what do I do when I get there?
There are EAA people that shuttle people from the plane parking area to
Camp Scholler in the days leading up to the opening. Give us a call
when you get in and we'll let you know specifically where we are at. If
you're in the vintage parking area it's likely that a few of us can come
over and help you carry stuff.
What exactly does it mean when you stake out a site?
Camp Scholler starts out as a big, empty field. When you register you
receive a vehicle pass and also a card for your site. At that point you
can "rope off" your site and display the card. If a site is roped off
and there is no card displayed the stakes/ropes will be removed by
security. Yes, they are actually driving around looking for this! What
Tim and I are doing is getting there early (when prime locations are
available), register the group, stake out/rope off sites, and attach the
registration cards to each site.
I'm arriving late, what about my site?
Your site will be registered and marked off at the same time as part of
the big batch. When you get in, regardless of when that is, your site
will be there with your name on it!
I'm leaving before the end of the show, can I get a refund for the
unused days?
Yes, you can get a refund. You simply turn in the site registration
card and they'll give you a check on the spot. Regardless of how you
pay us for your site we will pay using a check which will allow for a
cash refund.
I'm only staying for the first few days of the show, can somebody else
takeover my site when I leave?
Yes, Tim has an area on his website where it shows the "on site"
information for each person that has registered. One of the purposes of
that is to facilitate coordination with others. Any financial
arrangements are completely up to the individuals.
Why so early for staking sites?
What's the difference between having you get my site and doing it
myself?
We are getting there early to get a group of sites together that is
reasonably close to the entrance, showers, camp store, etc. We aren't
doing anything special except for that.
Is there a place to fill the water tank in my motorhome? What about
dumping the tanks? There is a place at the southwest corner of Camp
Scholler where you can fill water tanks and/or dump tanks. Usually
people fill the water tank on the way in and dump tanks on the way out.
There is also a septic service that will (for a small fee) drive over to
your site and dump your tanks. The only options for refilling the water
tank are to drive over to the area mentioned above or use containers. I
have done this in the past and will have a couple of 6 gal containers
that you are welcome to borrow. Water is available near the shower
building for this purpose.
Are the sites shaded? It is highly unlikely that you'll have a site
with shade. In the past couple of years we've been lucky enough to be
on the west side of a line of trees but they don't do anything for you
in the afternoon!
What is the size of the sites in Camp Scholler? Nominal size is 20x30
feet however some are slightly smaller, some are slightly larger and
some have the same number of square feet but are dimensionally a little
different. This is the reason that we are requesting info about what
sort of camping accommodations you'll have.
How can I recharge my cell phone?
Generally in the afternoon and evening people with generators will fire
them up to recharge batteries, run air conditioning etc. Last year we
had a couple of power strips and people charged up. Another option
would be to use the power outlets on the exterior of the shower
building.
What bathroom and shower facilities are there?
There are buildings with numerous shower stalls available 24 hours.
Bathrooms are exterior fiberglass porta-potties that are dumped and
cleaned daily.
Is there any sort of Internet access for checking email?
Near the shower building is a small building with a few internet
connected computers available for use free of charge. They are open
during the day and usually there isn't any wait. There is also supposed
to be WiFi available at Camp Scholler this year!
Is there a place within walking distance for food, ice and other
supplies?
There is a camp store with a large variety of food and camping
essentials.
What about getting around - is there any transportation besides walking?
There are shuttle buses that run from the Theater in the Woods area and
will take you all the way out to the warbirds at the north end of the
field with numerous stops in between. There is also a bus to Outlet
Mall that departs from main entrance.
I already have lodging but would like to stop by, when is a good time?
Just about any afternoon or evening there will be a few people around!
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 2008 OSH RV-10 HQ Camping |
| From: | "bcondrey" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
bump for ease of reference.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=190575#190575
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Ramp to belly distance? |
| From: | "orchidman" <gary(at)wingscc.com> |
Tim Olson wrote:
> Gary,
>
> From waaaaaay back before when I was in the same situation, I put
> this together:
> http://www.myrv10.com/tips/workarea.html
>
> Tim
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
Thanks all. Tim, I went through your site but couldn't find that page. Guess
my mind went with the hair on the top of my head. [Wink]
--------
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
Instrument Panel, Fiberglass - SB
(N2GB registered)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=190577#190577
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RobHickman(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Hysol 9360 Test and Window Install |
After last week=99s window install fiasco I talked to Lancair about t
heir
window install and decided to perform a glue test. Lancair has been using
Hysol
for =9Cover 15 years without any problems=9D and believes that
the Hysol is the
only way to go. When I talked to the Hysol support they were not real
positive about using it to bond acrylic windows and suggested that I do a t
est.
For the test I bonded two pieces of the left over front window two each
other, they were sanded with 80 grit and clamped together and left to hard
en in
the 100F sun. After 36 hours the parts bonded with Hysol easily pulled
apart by hand, the parts bonded with three year old expired Weldon-10 could
not
be separated, even with a screw driver and hammer. The Hysol data does
shows:
Curing - This adhesive may be cured for 5 to 7 days at >77=C2=B0F/25=C2=B0C
to achieve
normal performance. Accelerated cures up to 200=C2=B0F/93=C2=B0C (for small
masses
only) may be used as an alternative. For example, 1 hour at 180=C2=B0F/82
=C2=B0C will give
complete cure.
It has been very hot over the weekend and I find it hard to believe that it
would have got a lot stronger in 5 days.
Why does it work for Lancair?
I made a trip to a local Lancair ES builder that just installed his windows
to have a look. The Lancair windows are installed from the inside, have a
1 =C2=BD
=9D wide joint for bonding and after bonding you layup two to three l
ayers of
fiberglass between the windows and fuselage. It looks to me like the
windows would not come out even if you did not use any Hysol
So after all this I installed the windows using Weldon-10 and actually foun
d
that it was not that bad to work with and I don=99t think I have any
crazing
in the acrylic.
Rob Hickman
N402RH RV-10
**************Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for
fuel-efficient used cars. (http://autos.aol.com/used?ncid=aolaut00050
000000007)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RobHickman(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | How to build the Windshield faring |
One advantage of having the windows not bond the first time is I got to
remake the front fairing with the help of my neighbor Jim Cullison that bui
lt an
award winning Lancair. The made the first fairing using Van=99s pla
ns, laid
up in place and I thought it looked really good after hours and hours of
sanding.
Jim suggested we do it like Lancair; wet out the layers on the table and
then transfer the 5 foot floppy mess to the windshield. After my experience
with the Lancair window epoxy I was less than excited about using another
Lancair inspired technique. After much discussion with my fellow RV-bui
lder=99s
that had stopped by to check my progress we all decided it would never work
.
My wife Jennifer then informed the skeptical group that Jim had built a
whole airplane out of fiberglass and he just might know what he is doing.
To my surprise =9CThe Cullison Technique=9D worked fantastic, th
e faring looks
great and took very little sanding.
Step 1
Use Blue masking tape to tape mark where the faring will be on the window
and the top of the fuselage. The tape should be located where the faring wi
ll
be. You can keep moving the tape until everyone agrees it looks good.
Step 2
Use 20 mil black pipe wrapping tape from Home Depot to layout the edge of
the faring next to the masking tape. This black tape is really thick
electrical tape, is very rugged and really works well.
Step 3
Remove the masking tape and aggressively sand the windshield and aluminum
fuselage where the faring will bond to. The thick black tape really protect
s
the window and fuselage faring edge. After sanding clean the aluminum wit
h
Acetone (do not get on window) and blow off the window with air.
Step 4
Build the bottom window fillet out of Epoxy and micro balloons; this should
fill the joint between the windshield and fuselage making a smooth radius.
We used slow cure hardener so that we would have lots of time.
Step 5
Lay a piece of thin clear plastic on a 6 foot table that is about 1 foot
wide. Cut your first 3 layers of increasing widths of fiberglass cloth usi
ng a
long ruler and a rotary cutter (we used 9 0z bias cloth, the woven fibers
run diagonal so that it will curve ). The rotary cutter is a handle with a
sharp wheel that makes the long cuts very easy (I found mine in Jennifer
=99s
sewing supplies). Lay the strips of fiberglass in a stack with the widest
on the
bottom on the plastic. Pour a line of epoxy down the glass cloth and let i
t
soak through the layers, you should add more resin to places that are not
wetting out. Once the stack of cloth is wet out you should fold the plasti
c
over the top of the stack and then using a hard roller you should roll the
extra resin out of the stack.
Step 6
Using your long metal ruler as a guide and the rotary cutter trim both lon
g
edges of the fabric and plastic sandwich. You should only be trimming the
edge of the bottom glass layer and the extra plastic and resin.
Step 7
Remove the top plastic layer from the stack and then using two people flip
over the stack and carefully place it in the middle of the
windshield-fuselage faring. Once we had it located fairly close we remove
d the top plastic
layer and used a brush to push it in place and remove any bubbles.
Step 8
Repeat steps 5,6,7 for the next three layer stack. As long as the epoxy
does not harden you can keep adding layers without sanding.
Step 9
Repeat steps 5,6,7 for the final one layer stack that will be used for th
e
bottom fuselage edge. We trimmed the width to 2 =C2=BD=9D wide and
carefully
brushed it so it just touched the tape edge on the fuselage.
Step 10
Repeat steps 5,6,7 for the final one layer stack that will be used for th
e
upper windshield edge. We trimmed the width to 2 =C2=BD=9D wide and
carefully
brushed it so it just touched the tape edge on the windshield.
Step 11
Press peelply on the top of the fairing so that it will leave a rough finis
h
that you can add epoxy and micro balloons without having to sand. The
peelply should be removed once the epoxy is cured.
We precut all the layers of cloth and in less than two hours I had a fairin
g
that is going to take very little sanding and looks great.
Rob Hickman
N402RH RV-10 with Windows and a Fairing
**************Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for
fuel-efficient used cars. (http://autos.aol.com/used?ncid=aolaut00050
000000007)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Les Kearney <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | How to build the Windshield faring |
Rob
Do you have any pictures (*I hope so*).
By the way, the last time I pilfered some of my wife=92s sewing supplies
to
cut fibreglass, I was told in no uncertain terms that I would be
neutered if
I did it again. That was over 10 years ago, am I am still occasionally
reminded of my transgression. Be warned!
Cheers
Les
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
RobHickman(at)AOL.COM
Sent: June-30-08 1:29 PM
Subject: RV10-List: How to build the Windshield faring
One advantage of having the windows not bond the first time is I got to
remake the front fairing with the help of my neighbor Jim Cullison that
built an award winning Lancair. The made the first fairing using
Van=92s
plans, laid up in place and I thought it looked really good after hours
and
hours of sanding.
Jim suggested we do it like Lancair; wet out the layers on the table
and
then transfer the 5 foot floppy mess to the windshield. After my
experience
with the Lancair window epoxy I was less than excited about using
another
Lancair inspired technique. After much discussion with my fellow
RV-builder=92s that had stopped by to check my progress we all decided
it
would never work. My wife Jennifer then informed the skeptical group
that
Jim had built a whole airplane out of fiberglass and he just might know
what
he is doing.
To my surprise =93The Cullison Technique=94 worked fantastic, the faring
looks
great and took very little sanding.
Step 1
Use Blue masking tape to tape mark where the faring will be on the
window
and the top of the fuselage. The tape should be located where the faring
will be. You can keep moving the tape until everyone agrees it looks
good.
Step 2
Use 20 mil black pipe wrapping tape from Home Depot to layout the edge
of
the faring next to the masking tape. This black tape is really thick
electrical tape, is very rugged and really works well.
Step 3
Remove the masking tape and aggressively sand the windshield and
aluminum
fuselage where the faring will bond to. The thick black tape really
protects
the window and fuselage faring edge. After sanding clean the aluminum
with
Acetone (do not get on window) and blow off the window with air.
Step 4
Build the bottom window fillet out of Epoxy and micro balloons; this
should
fill the joint between the windshield and fuselage making a smooth
radius.
We used slow cure hardener so that we would have lots of time.
Step 5
Lay a piece of thin clear plastic on a 6 foot table that is about 1 foot
wide. Cut your first 3 layers of increasing widths of fiberglass cloth
using a long ruler and a rotary cutter (we used 9 0z bias cloth, the
woven
fibers run diagonal so that it will curve ). The rotary cutter is a
handle
with a sharp wheel that makes the long cuts very easy (I found mine in
Jennifer=92s sewing supplies). Lay the strips of fiberglass in a stack
with
the widest on the bottom on the plastic. Pour a line of epoxy down the
glass cloth and let it soak through the layers, you should add more
resin to
places that are not wetting out. Once the stack of cloth is wet out
you
should fold the plastic over the top of the stack and then using a hard
roller you should roll the extra resin out of the stack.
Step 6
Using your long metal ruler as a guide and the rotary cutter trim both
long
edges of the fabric and plastic sandwich. You should only be trimming
the
edge of the bottom glass layer and the extra plastic and resin.
Step 7
Remove the top plastic layer from the stack and then using two people
flip
over the stack and carefully place it in the middle of the
windshield-fuselage faring. Once we had it located fairly close we
removed
the top plastic layer and used a brush to push it in place and remove
any
bubbles.
Step 8
Repeat steps 5,6,7 for the next three layer stack. As long as the
epoxy
does not harden you can keep adding layers without sanding.
Step 9
Repeat steps 5,6,7 for the final one layer stack that will be used for
the
bottom fuselage edge. We trimmed the width to 2 =BD=94 wide and
carefully
brushed it so it just touched the tape edge on the fuselage.
Step 10
Repeat steps 5,6,7 for the final one layer stack that will be used for
the
upper windshield edge. We trimmed the width to 2 =BD=94 wide and
carefully
brushed it so it just touched the tape edge on the windshield.
Step 11
Press peelply on the top of the fairing so that it will leave a rough
finish
that you can add epoxy and micro balloons without having to sand. The
peelply should be removed once the epoxy is cured.
We precut all the layers of cloth and in less than two hours I had a
fairing
that is going to take very little sanding and looks great.
Rob Hickman
N402RH RV-10 with Windows and a Fairing
_____
Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for fuel-efficient used
cars
<http://autos.aol.com/used?ncid=aolaut00050000000007> .
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: How to build the Windshield faring |
| From: | "Jim Berry" <jimberry(at)qwest.net> |
Rob,
I used the same technique as you, with only 2 minor changes. I was concerned about
the flox that forms the fillet at the bottom of the windscreen pushing through
to the interior and creating an irregular edge, so I took a length of 3/8"
round weather strip which I coated with mold release wax, and worked it into
the angle between the inside of the windscreen and the glare shield with a paint
stir stick. When the flox was cured I pulled the weather strip out, leaving
a nice rounded contour at the bottom of the windscreen.
Also I had seen several -10's with a bulge at the ends of the windscreen fairing,
caused by the 10 layers of glass called for. For the first 6 layers I cut back
the ends 1" per layer so they were staggered. The top 4 layers are full length.
This was enough to eliminate the bulge, and made it much easier to fair
to the front edge of the door.
Jim Berry
40482
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=190622#190622
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> |
Started it yesterday on an unattached tailcone. I've logged 8 hours and 2.8 for
my wife. Will probably finish in another 2 hours after I borrow a 4" yoke. I
only drilled out the two rivets on each side common to the F-1010 and F-1010A.
This is the hardest part. The entire operation can be done from outside the tailcone,
although I had an advantage in that I could roll it to one side or the
other on a table for easy access.
There is no need to pull the F-1014 aft deck and ruin those "beautiful" rivets.
The right tools are essential. Sioux drill, Right Angle drill attachment with
the optional chuck - such as Avery's kit, slightly longer chucking bits than
normal, a mirror, and a flashlight held by you-know-who.
Everything is accessible through the lightening holes in the aft deck and the large
hole in F-1009. If you can't roll the tailcone from side to side like I could,
it's still doable, but will definitely be less comfortable.
I buggered one of the four rivets that was inboard, so I carefully "buggered the
other one to match." Drilled them to take an AN3-5A and it looks great.
As soon as I borrow the 4" yoke, I'll get the hard to reach ones done. The pneumatic
squeezer doesn't get along with the one rivet next to the J-channel, so
I'll probably have to shoot & buck it. De-burring was surprisingly easy, although
the mirror makes your sense of direction go crazy.
I'm extremely pleased with the results and I didn't have to touch the aft deck
(although it did teach my forearms a lesson). I would highly recommend doing it
this way if at all possible. I doubt if it's any faster, but I sure feel better
about leaving the aft deck alone.
For you flying guys, Tim's discovery of some smoking rivets may make the Van's
way the preferred method - I might have missed something like that.
John
--------
#40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=190646#190646
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Hysol 9360 Test and Window Install |
| From: | "John Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> |
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LES KEARNEY <Kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
Hi
A question from a member of the peanut gallery who just received the SB kit. Is
there any reason that Cherry Max rivets shouldn't be used for the hard to reach
rivet locations?
Inquiring minds need to know...
Les Kearney
#40643
----- Original Message -----
From: johngoodman <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net>
Date: Monday, June 30, 2008 8:00 pm
Subject: RV10-List: Re: SB work
>
> Started it yesterday on an unattached tailcone. I've logged 8
> hours and 2.8 for my wife. Will probably finish in another 2
> hours after I borrow a 4" yoke. I only drilled out the two
> rivets on each side common to the F-1010 and F-1010A. This is
> the hardest part. The entire operation can be done from outside
> the tailcone, although I had an advantage in that I could roll
> it to one side or the other on a table for easy access.
> There is no need to pull the F-1014 aft deck and ruin those
> "beautiful" rivets. The right tools are essential. Sioux drill,
> Right Angle drill attachment with the optional chuck - such as
> Avery's kit, slightly longer chucking bits than normal, a
> mirror, and a flashlight held by you-know-who.
> Everything is accessible through the lightening holes in the aft
> deck and the large hole in F-1009. If you can't roll the
> tailcone from side to side like I could, it's still doable, but
> will definitely be less comfortable.
> I buggered one of the four rivets that was inboard, so I
> carefully "buggered the other one to match." Drilled them to
> take an AN3-5A and it looks great.
> As soon as I borrow the 4" yoke, I'll get the hard to reach ones
> done. The pneumatic squeezer doesn't get along with the one
> rivet next to the J-channel, so I'll probably have to shoot &
> buck it. De-burring was surprisingly easy, although the mirror
> makes your sense of direction go crazy.
> I'm extremely pleased with the results and I didn't have to
> touch the aft deck (although it did teach my forearms a lesson).
> I would highly recommend doing it this way if at all possible. I
> doubt if it's any faster, but I sure feel better about leaving
> the aft deck alone.
> For you flying guys, Tim's discovery of some smoking rivets may
> make the Van's way the preferred method - I might have missed
> something like that.
> John
>
> --------
> #40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished
> N711JG reserved
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=190646#190646
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> RV10-List Email Forum -
> _-
> = - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -
> _-
> = - List Contribution Web Site -
> _-
> = -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris" <toaster73(at)embarqmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Hysol 9360 Test and Window Install |
I think the big thing folks are "glazing" over here is that the weld-on
CHEMICALLY reacts with acrylic and so happens to bond to the fiberglass.
It uses this reaction with acrylic to achieve is bond strength which is
substantial. The epoxy product will never create the bond since it is
not REACTING with the acrylic. I see the weld-on as exactly that ...a
plastic/acrylic weld. Epoxy is not doing that to the acrylic.
-Chris Lucas
#40072 sticking with weld-on in this application
----- Original Message -----
From: John Cox
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Monday, June 30, 2008 9:55 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Hysol 9360 Test and Window Install
Hysol comes by a plethora of product numbers (each application
specific). Some on this list will curse Hysol and swear by Weldon
products (they might even be first-time builders). Plastic aircraft
builders have a vastly deeper reservoir of proven products than even the
most prolific RV builder - David Lewis. RV builders (with no offense
intended) are still in the dark ages when it comes to proper adhesives
for specific missions with plastic products.
RV factory techniques of inserting the windows from outside the
pressure vessel on the low pressure side are not the same as inserting
the window from inside the pressure vessel. We as RV builders do not
yet have an approved Turbo or Pressurized RV-10 but the differences
become self evident with study. Just because the factory designed it
outside does not make it better.
A close friend lost his Lancair windows (both original and replacement
panes) at 25,000 feet - twice. After the group humiliation, the humor
came at his use of the wrong product and failure to properly prep the
plastic substrate following clear and concise directions with proven
chemicals. There is a valuable kernel of knowledge somewhere in that
pile of straw and by product. Talk to veteran plastic plane builders.
There accident rate comes from stupid operators and not poor plastic
adhesion techniques.
When the correct numbered product is used with the correct technique,
Crazing is never (or seldom a result) and installation failure is
reduced (like somewhere down around my chance of a winning lottery
ticket). Maybe Dave Saylor can pipe in on the correct Hysol numbers and
clarity here. Hysol 9360 when properly stored, surface prepped, and
properly applied will give repeatedly great results.
John Cox
N49CX RV-10
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
RobHickman(at)aol.com
Sent: Monday, June 30, 2008 10:02 AM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: Hysol 9360 Test and Window Install
After last week=99s window install fiasco I talked to Lancair
about their window install and decided to perform a glue test. Lancair
has been using Hysol for =9Cover 15 years without any
problems=9D and believes that the Hysol is the only way to go.
When I talked to the Hysol support they were not real positive about
using it to bond acrylic windows and suggested that I do a test.
For the test I bonded two pieces of the left over front window two
each other, they were sanded with 80 grit and clamped together and left
to harden in the 100F sun. After 36 hours the parts bonded with Hysol
easily pulled apart by hand, the parts bonded with three year old
expired Weldon-10 could not be separated, even with a screw driver and
hammer. The Hysol data does shows:
Curing - This adhesive may be cured for 5 to 7 days at
>77=C2=B0F/25=C2=B0C to achieve normal performance. Accelerated cures up
to 200=C2=B0F/93=C2=B0C (for small masses only) may be used as an
alternative. For example, 1 hour at 180=C2=B0F/82=C2=B0C will give
complete cure.
It has been very hot over the weekend and I find it hard to believe
that it would have got a lot stronger in 5 days.
Why does it work for Lancair?
I made a trip to a local Lancair ES builder that just installed his
windows to have a look. The Lancair windows are installed from the
inside, have a 1 =C2=BD=9D wide joint for bonding and after
bonding you layup two to three layers of fiberglass between the windows
and fuselage. It looks to me like the windows would not come out even
if you did not use any Hysol
So after all this I installed the windows using Weldon-10 and actually
found that it was not that bad to work with and I don=99t think I
have any crazing in the acrylic.
Rob Hickman
N402RH RV-10
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for fuel-efficient used
cars.
=======================
??~??,=03g?=D3=93
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Fuel Sender Question |
| From: | "Robin Marks" <robin1(at)mrmoisture.com> |
UlYtMTAgTGlzdCwNCg0KICAgICAgICAgICAgSSBhbSBiZWdpbm5pbmcgdG8gbGVhcm4gdGhlIGhh
cmQgd2F5IGFib3V0IHRoZSBkaWZmZXJlbmNlcyBiZXR3ZWVuIGZsb2F0IHR5cGUsIHJlc2lzdGFu
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DQogDQoNClRoYW5rcyBpbiBhZHZhbmNlLA0KDQpSb2Jpbg0KDQogDQoNCkdldHRpbmcgY2xvc2Vy
4oCmIGFuZCBmdXJ0aGVyIGFsbCB0aGUgdGltZS4NCg0K
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Leikam" <daveleikam(at)wi.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Rudder pedal mounting |
The instructions have you cut the F-6115 rudder pedal bearing block in
half which removes material and causes the part to clamp the rudder
pedal assemblies. Has anyone used spacers between the two halfs to
prevent the action from being so stiff?
Dave Leikam
#40496 N89DA (Reserved)
Muskego, WI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Wright <flywrights(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | alas - window install |
I've joined Tim Olson's ranks of having to sand down some of the plexi on t
his first window that I glued in tonight.=0AI think I've outdone-everyone
in my personal feeling of the quality of the install.- =0AThat being sai
d, aside from only one large air bubble that I can get to fairly easily, I
think that I've really only created extra work, and haven't done some catas
trophic deed that could only be fixed with a new door/window!- I'll have
to add some epoxy to the exterior seam areas that didn't completely fill up
; I'll have to build a fillet on the inside of the door after having to cut
so much electrical tape back out a la Tim O (even after only waiting 15 mi
n!), and the rest of the cosmetic stuff will be covered by a thin layer of
glass on top of the seam, which I was going to do anyway so that really isn
't adding any work.=0AI'd like some more info/pics on getting a nice smooth
curve of -glass around the windows.- I hear 2 or 4 oz, right?- Just en
ough to cover the seam and be able to fair?=0AThree windows and a windshiel
d to go.=0AMore tips?- I figure next window I won't need any electrical t
ape on the rear of the window.- I'm installing on the bench so runs aren'
t that bad on the back.=0ARob Wright=0A#392=0ACanopy light at the end of th
e tunnel=0APlanning on flying for a long time while I take my time to do th
e paint prep - the freshly birthed airplane won't be a Gerber baby!=0A=0A
=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net> |
nope!
From: LES KEARNEY
Sent: Monday, June 30, 2008 7:50 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: SB work
Hi
A question from a member of the peanut gallery who just received the SB
kit. Is there any reason that Cherry Max rivets shouldn't be used for
the hard to reach rivet locations?
Inquiring minds need to know...
Les Kearney
#40643
----- Original Message -----
From: johngoodman <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net>
Date: Monday, June 30, 2008 8:00 pm
Subject: RV10-List: Re: SB work
>
> Started it yesterday on an unattached tailcone. I've logged 8
> hours and 2.8 for my wife. Will probably finish in another 2
> hours after I borrow a 4" yoke. I only drilled out the two
> rivets on each side common to the F-1010 and F-1010A. This is
> the hardest part. The entire operation can be done from outside
> the tailcone, although I had an advantage in that I could roll
> it to one side or the other on a table for easy access.
> There is no need to pull the F-1014 aft deck and ruin those
> "beautiful" rivets. The right tools are essential. Sioux drill,
> Right Angle drill attachment with the optional chuck - such as
> Avery's kit, slightly longer chucking bits than normal, a
> mirror, and a flashlight held by you-know-who.
> Everything is accessible through the lightening holes in the aft
> deck and the large hole in F-1009. If you can't roll the
> tailcone from side to side like I could, it's still doable, but
> will definitely be less comfortable.
> I buggered one of the four rivets that was inboard, so I
> carefully "buggered the other one to match." Drilled them to
> take an AN3-5A and it looks great.
> As soon as I borrow the 4" yoke, I'll get the hard to reach ones
> done. The pneumatic squeezer doesn't get along with the one
> rivet next to the J-channel, so I'll probably have to shoot &
> buck it. De-burring was surprisingly easy, although the mirror
> makes your sense of direction go crazy.
> I'm extremely pleased with the results and I didn't have to
> touch the aft deck (although it did teach my forearms a lesson).
> I would highly recommend doing it this way if at all possible. I
> doubt if it's any faster, but I sure feel better about leaving
> the aft deck alone.
> For you flying guys, Tim's discovery of some smoking rivets may
> make the Van's way the preferred method - I might have missed
> something like that.
> John
>
> --------
> #40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished
> N711JG reserved
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=190646#190646
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> RV10-List Email Forum -
>
> _-
> = - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -
>
> _-
> = - List Contribution Web Site -
> _-
> = -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Lower Cowling Cooling Vents |
| From: | "partner14" <building_partner(at)yahoo.com> |
Has anyone studied the actual direction of the airflow as it descends down through
the cylinders and tries to make it's way out, either the louver outlets, or
straight out the back? Seems that the louvers would possibly be more efficient
if they were installed at an angle, say 45 degrees. Has anyone installed
a couple of louvers directly below the oil cooler to more easily facilitate the
exit of air from there?
Don McDonald
#40636 Finishing
N14XG
--------
Don A. McDonald
40636
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=190671#190671
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Saylor" <Dave(at)AirCraftersLLC.com> |
| Subject: | Rudder pedal mounting |
I opened up the holes a bit for a looser fit. You don't need anything super
precise there, and less friction is better.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA
831-722-9141
831-750-0284 CL
www.AirCraftersLLC.com
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Leikam
Sent: Monday, June 30, 2008 8:29 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Rudder pedal mounting
The instructions have you cut the F-6115 rudder pedal bearing block in half
which removes material and causes the part to clamp the rudder pedal
assemblies. Has anyone used spacers between the two halfs to prevent the
action from being so stiff?
Dave Leikam
#40496 N89DA (Reserved)
Muskego, WI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Saylor" <Dave(at)AirCraftersLLC.com> |
| Subject: | Hysol 9360 Test and Window Install |
Piping in:
We've had generally good success with Hysol, but not a perfect record.
One IV-P windsheild had to be re-bonded after it popped out, similar to
Rob's experience (which I think we should refer to from now on as "The
Hickman Incident", unless there's already a better one ;-).
Rob and John are right, Lancair uses a much different method: installed
from the inside, then laminated over. The plex is thereby trapped in a
deep groove. You could probably replace the Hysol with bubble gum and
get good results (very, very high quality bubble gum).
And, we've used at least three diffrent formulas. Now we're using 9360
(white-ish beige) as recommended by Lancair, but we've also used a
bright blue and a dark green, as formerly recommended. For general
non-structural glueing we often use small tubes of "EP120", yet another
Hysol product, from McMaster-Carr. There are probably 100 different
Hysol formulas.
Per Lancair's instructions, we mix in a little flox. We use 120 grit to
rough up the edges. This is on the recommendation of Harold Bunyi, who
some of you know from our classes. He's good with glue.
The point of sanding the edges is to get rid of the outer, less reactive
layer of acrylic. Accoring to the Hysol instructions:
"Surface abrasion can also remove other surface contaminants as well as
weak, low molecular weight components which can be concentratred at the
surface due to their exclusion during solidification or crystallization
of some polymers. Also during solidification of both thermoplastic
(RV-10 windows) and thermoset materials, there is often an orientation
of the more polar groups toward the interior, leaving a concentration of
lower polarity, lower energy groups on the surface. Abrasion can open
up access to the more energetic polymer interior".
Now, I'm in over my head when it gets to the part about molecular
weight. But I'm sure that what this is basically saying is that Hysol
won't stick well to the finished surface of Plexiglas. You have to get
rid of the outer "skin" to get to the reactive part of the plex that
will adhere well.
I don't know why Rob's test pieces failed. And I'm sure Weld-On will do
a fine job. As usual, deviating from the plans almost always makes it
harder. I used Hysol for my windshield joggle, with a thin overlay. So
far so good after 150 hours and a couple of torture tests. But I
haven't *tried* to remove it. Maybe I should...
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA
831-722-9141
831-750-0284 CL
www.AirCraftersLLC.com
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Cox
Sent: Monday, June 30, 2008 6:56 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Hysol 9360 Test and Window Install
Hysol comes by a plethora of product numbers (each application
specific). Some on this list will curse Hysol and swear by Weldon
products (they might even be first-time builders). Plastic aircraft
builders have a vastly deeper reservoir of proven products than even the
most prolific RV builder - David Lewis. RV builders (with no offense
intended) are still in the dark ages when it comes to proper adhesives
for specific missions with plastic products.
RV factory techniques of inserting the windows from outside the pressure
vessel on the low pressure side are not the same as inserting the window
from inside the pressure vessel. We as RV builders do not yet have an
approved Turbo or Pressurized RV-10 but the differences become self
evident with study. Just because the factory designed it outside does
not make it better.
A close friend lost his Lancair windows (both original and replacement
panes) at 25,000 feet - twice. After the group humiliation, the humor
came at his use of the wrong product and failure to properly prep the
plastic substrate following clear and concise directions with proven
chemicals. There is a valuable kernel of knowledge somewhere in that
pile of straw and by product. Talk to veteran plastic plane builders.
There accident rate comes from stupid operators and not poor plastic
adhesion techniques.
When the correct numbered product is used with the correct technique,
Crazing is never (or seldom a result) and installation failure is
reduced (like somewhere down around my chance of a winning lottery
ticket). Maybe Dave Saylor can pipe in on the correct Hysol numbers and
clarity here. Hysol 9360 when properly stored, surface prepped, and
properly applied will give repeatedly great results.
John Cox
N49CX RV-10
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
RobHickman(at)aol.com
Sent: Monday, June 30, 2008 10:02 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Hysol 9360 Test and Window Install
After last week=99s window install fiasco I talked to Lancair
about their window install and decided to perform a glue test. Lancair
has been using Hysol for =9Cover 15 years without any
problems=9D and believes that the Hysol is the only way to go.
When I talked to the Hysol support they were not real positive about
using it to bond acrylic windows and suggested that I do a test.
For the test I bonded two pieces of the left over front window two each
other, they were sanded with 80 grit and clamped together and left to
harden in the 100F sun. After 36 hours the parts bonded with Hysol
easily pulled apart by hand, the parts bonded with three year old
expired Weldon-10 could not be separated, even with a screw driver and
hammer. The Hysol data does shows:
Curing - This adhesive may be cured for 5 to 7 days at
>77=C2=B0F/25=C2=B0C to achieve normal performance. Accelerated cures up
to 200=C2=B0F/93=C2=B0C (for small masses only) may be used as an
alternative. For example, 1 hour at 180=C2=B0F/82=C2=B0C will give
complete cure.
It has been very hot over the weekend and I find it hard to believe that
it would have got a lot stronger in 5 days.
Why does it work for Lancair?
I made a trip to a local Lancair ES builder that just installed his
windows to have a look. The Lancair windows are installed from the
inside, have a 1 =C2=BD=9D wide joint for bonding and after
bonding you layup two to three layers of fiberglass between the windows
and fuselage. It looks to me like the windows would not come out even
if you did not use any Hysol
So after all this I installed the windows using Weldon-10 and actually
found that it was not that bad to work with and I don=99t think I
have any crazing in the acrylic.
Rob Hickman
N402RH RV-10
_____
Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for fuel-efficient used
<http://autos.aol.com/used?ncid=aolaut00050000000007> cars.
=EF=BD=EF=BD~=EF=BD=EF=BD,=03g=EF=BD=EF=BD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Grimstad" <Bldgrv10450(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder pedal mounting |
Dave
I didn't use any spacers on mine. I do however have an alternate center
support bushing and mounting bracket that attaches to the stock firewall
support bracket, not shown in the photo.
Feedback and questions are welcome however please be understanding, I am
typing one finger / left handed from rotater cuff surgery last week.
Paul Grimstad
RV-10 450
Portland, Or.
----- Original Message -----
From: Dave Leikam
To: RV-10 matronics
Sent: Monday, June 30, 2008 8:29 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Rudder pedal mounting
The instructions have you cut the F-6115 rudder pedal bearing block in
half which removes material and causes the part to clamp the rudder
pedal assemblies. Has anyone used spacers between the two halfs to
prevent the action from being so stiff?
Dave Leikam
#40496 N89DA (Reserved)
Muskego, WI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fred Williams, M.D." <drfred(at)suddenlinkmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder pedal mounting |
Paul :
Great looking set of pedals for the 10. Hope your recovery is
progressing well.
Fred Williams.
40515
working through the maze of wiring.
will put the windshield in with weld on and the sides with silpruf.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Hysol 9360 Test and Window Install |
| From: | "John Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> |
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PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09DQogDQo
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Rudder pedal mounting |
| From: | "John Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> |
Wow, now that is what the factory should have designed. And the cables
are concealed within the tunnel. Reminds me of building hot-rods. Is
the foot pressure stiffer than stock?
Nice photo.
John Cox
RV-10 600
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Paul Grimstad
Sent: Tuesday, July 01, 2008 1:28 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Rudder pedal mounting
Dave
I didn't use any spacers on mine. I do however have an alternate center
support bushing and mounting bracket that attaches to the stock firewall
support bracket, not shown in the photo.
Feedback and questions are welcome however please be understanding, I am
typing one finger / left handed from rotater cuff surgery last week.
Paul Grimstad
RV-10 450
Portland, Or.
----- Original Message -----
From: Dave Leikam <mailto:daveleikam(at)wi.rr.com>
To: RV-10 matronics
Sent: Monday, June 30, 2008 8:29 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Rudder pedal mounting
The instructions have you cut the F-6115 rudder pedal bearing
block in half which removes material and causes the part to clamp the
rudder pedal assemblies. Has anyone used spacers between the two halfs
to prevent the action from being so stiff?
Dave Leikam
#40496 N89DA (Reserved)
Muskego, WI
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic
s
.com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <jim(at)CombsFive.Com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder pedal mounting |
I added washers (same thickness as the band saw blade) between the two parts.
No gaps and no binding.
Jim Combs =====================================================
From: "Dave Leikam" <daveleikam(at)wi.rr.com>
Date: 2008/06/30 Mon PM 11:29:15 EDT
Subject: RV10-List: Rudder pedal mounting
The instructions have you cut the F-6115 rudder pedal bearing block in half which
removes material and causes the part to clamp the rudder pedal assemblies.
Has anyone used spacers between the two halfs to prevent the action from being
so stiff?
Dave Leikam
#40496 N89DA (Reserved)
Muskego, WI
===========================================================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder pedal mounting |
So when are you going to share (i.e. market) those beauties with the
rest of us ???????
Deems
and the brake cylinders and plumbing are 'hidden' on the back side!!!!!!
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Sked <ricksked(at)embarqmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder pedal mounting |
Heh He...should be the same....2 foot pounds...one for each foot on each pe
dal=C2-=C2- :)
Rick Sked
40185
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com>
Sent: Tuesday, July 1, 2008 7:38:25 AM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Rudder pedal mounting
Wow, now that is what the factory should have designed.=C2- And the cable
s are concealed within the tunnel.=C2- Reminds me of building hot-rods.
=C2- Is the foot pressure stiffer than stock?
Nice photo.
John Cox
RV-10 600
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of Paul Grimstad
Sent: Tuesday, July 01, 2008 1:28 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Rudder pedal mounting
Dave
I didn't use any spacers on mine. I do however have an alternate center sup
port bushing and mounting bracket that attaches to the stock firewall suppo
rt bracket, not shown in the photo.
Feedback and questions are welcome however please be understanding, I am ty
ping one finger / left handed from rotater cuff surgery last week.=C2-
Paul Grimstad
RV-10 450
Portland, Or.
----- Original Message -----
From: Dave Leikam
Sent: Monday, June 30, 2008 8:29 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Rudder pedal mounting
The instructions have you cut the=C2-F-6115=C2-rudder pedal bearing blo
ck=C2-in half which=C2-removes material and=C2-causes the part=C2-t
o clamp the rudder pedal assemblies.=C2- Has anyone used spacers between
the two halfs to prevent the action from being so stiff?
Dave Leikam
#40496=C2- N89DA (Reserved)
Muskego, WI =C2- =C2- href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-L
ist">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List href="http://forums.mat
ronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/co
=======================
====
=======================
==
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Grimstad" <Bldgrv10450(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder pedal mounting |
Deems,
There is one builder that should be installing a set very soon. I will be
working closely with him on the details.
Marketing effort is slowly underway, for now we are just happy to be back to
building our 10 kit and working on pedal design for the RV6,7 & 9.
Additionally, I have several pedal sets sold and we are planning a small
production run. The system cost is $1,795.
Paul Grimstad
RV10 450
Portland, Or.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Deems Davis" <deemsdavis(at)cox.net>
Sent: Tuesday, July 01, 2008 8:01 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Rudder pedal mounting
>
> So when are you going to share (i.e. market) those beauties with the rest
> of us ???????
>
> Deems
>
> and the brake cylinders and plumbing are 'hidden' on the back side!!!!!!
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "gary" <speckter(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Ray Allen Relay Decks |
I have 2 of the new style relay decks that I do not need. I will sell, make
offer.
Gary Specketer
gspecketer(at)hotmail.com
770-403-3450
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-10 Group Camping FAQs |
Bob,
Thanks a million for the FAQ...that helps me a ton!
I added a page and links now for the FAQ here:
http://www.myrv10.com/osh/Camping_FAQ.html
We added another couple sites the past couple days.
Looks like lots of people are opting for the earlier
stake-out date, so I'm going to have my hands full
that day!
Below is an edited and updated repost of camping info
for those who are still straggling. It looks like we're
going to have quite the group this year, and a whole
mix of different people too. If you want to get a
site though, we're down to 17 days until I stake out
sites, and 21 until Bob does it, so now is the time
to start acting on it.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
Ok folks, here's a little more OSH camping info for you.
Today I spent a few hours getting things ready to make it
easier for you to get info and send payment stuff. (Which,
by the way, can be done anytime in the next 17 days and it
won't be too late)
First, if you're not on the OSH list (also builders list),
start by getting on that:
http://www.myrv10.com/osh.html
When you submit the form, it gives me the general base info
that I use to fill in the builders list. It's a manual
process, so don't be surprised if it takes me a couple days.
Then, once you have access to the builders list, you can
view it here:
http://www.myrv10.com/osh.html
There you'll find more info that I'll update as we get closer
to OSH, and have OSH planning links for you to download info.
Then, if you're going to get a campsite, we've got a little
more and updated info for you, and I have a camping payment
page here:
http://www.myrv10.com/builderslist/CampingPayments.html
(login required)
There are a couple of new things and changes. First, you can
pay by check or by paypal. Doesn't matter to us which one you
use. Paypal does charge fees, and we did a little quick math
and found that the fees would run between $8.50 and $10.50,
depending on the date you start your campsite reservations on,
as it's based on the total you're sending. So, to make it
simple, I rounded it off to an even $10. Yeah, I know, Bob
said $7, but I don't want to see Bob come up short, and any
extra on that will end up going to the common campsite that
we're buying as a gathering place.
To see the campsite reservations so far, here's a link:
http://www.myrv10.com/osh/2008_Campsites.html
Again, if you get a campsite, BE SURE to include your EAA number
somewhere.
So we're finally ready to get those plans in place and be
organized. I'll try to keep up on the stuff as fast as I can.
Oh, and anytime you want to update your info, just fill in the
form at http://www.myrv10.com/osh.html and I'll just get it
all updated for you. If you forgot your password, make sure
to make a note in the comments area and I'll send it.
Tim
Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrote:
> Questions are starting to roll in now that AirVenture is getting close.
> Ive compiled a lot of the common questions and answers from last year
> and put them below. Im also going to bump the RV-10 group camping
> thread for ease in finding it since it contains links to the areas on
> Tims website. If youve got any other questions feel free to either
> post them to the group or contact me offline.
>
>
>
> Bob
>
> N442PM (flying)
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder pedal mounting |
I know a patent attorney or two if it would help speed them to market. 8-)
Deems Davis wrote:
>
> So when are you going to share (i.e. market) those beauties with the
> rest of us ???????
>
> Deems
>
> and the brake cylinders and plumbing are 'hidden' on the back side!!!!!!
>>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerry petersen <bldanrv9a(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Ramp to belly distance? |
I'm not sure of the belly height but we were able to get ours out of a door that
was 6'-4" high by 7'-11" wide door with the Lyc IO 540 hung. We were able to
do this by removing the main wheels and fabricating a 4" dolly wheel. We rolled
it about 6-8 feet on the dollys and then put mains back on. It worked great.
I have pictures somewhere if you need to see them.
--- On Mon, 6/30/08, orchidman wrote:
> From: orchidman <gary(at)wingscc.com>
> Subject: RV10-List: Ramp to belly distance?
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Monday, June 30, 2008, 9:17 AM
>
>
> Can someone publish the ramp (garage floor) to belly
> distance with the gear on? It would be really good to get
> the distance both with the engine on and before it is
> installed.
> I am in the garage with the canopy top fully trimmed but
> not bolted down. Standing back and looking at the project
> this weekend I started looking at the distance from the top
> to my garage door opener which also translates to what I
> will need for clearance rolling out of the door.
> I am trying to get as much of the wiring complete before I
> install the gear and dont want to get surprised and
> stuck.
>
> --------
> Gary Blankenbiller
> RV10 - # 40674
> Instrument Panel, Fiberglass - SB
> (N2GB registered)
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=190550#190550
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Ramp to belly distance? |
| From: | "orchidman" <gary(at)wingscc.com> |
bldanrv9a(at)yahoo.com wrote:
> I'm not sure of the belly height but we were able to get ours out of a door that
was 6'-4" high by 7'-11" wide door with the Lyc IO 540 hung. We were able
to do this by removing the main wheels and fabricating a 4" dolly wheel. We
rolled it about 6-8 feet on the dollys and then put mains back on. It worked
great. I have pictures somewhere if you need to see them.
>
That must have been something to see :D
I have right at 80" so it looks like I will just make it. Thanks all.
--------
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
Instrument Panel, Fiberglass - SB
(N2GB registered)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=190814#190814
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Ackerman <johnag5b(at)cableone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron Bellcrank Bushing Questions |
Here's something to watch for
I reamed the bushings and still had unsat. operation. Turns out the
brand new bolts were not straight. Used other bolts of same spec and
all was OK.
I recommend going slowly and using lubricant. Don't run the reamer
backward.
John Ackerman 40458
On Jun 30, 2008, at 8:55 AM, Les Kearney wrote:
>
> Gary
>
> I think I'll put the bellcranks on hold for a few days and order a
> reamer
> from Avery. I can't seem to find one locally.
> rums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=190485#190485
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Fuel Sender Question |
| From: | "Robin Marks" <robin1(at)mrmoisture.com> |
The problem has been mostly resolved. We forgot to put the 90 degree
bend in the float attachment rod to keep the float arm from rotating.
Without the bend the float just rotated instead of lifting the sender
arm. We are now getting resolution to 23 & 21 gallons. That difference
is probably a small dissimilarity in the geometry of the arms. We will
dig into that soon.
I sure hope we didn't forget to put the 90 degree bend on the engine
mount???
Thanks,
Robin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Nosewheel breakout force |
I'm putting a 5x5 wheel/tire up front on my 6A and need to know what you folks
are using for a nosewheel breakout force setting and how you are measuring it.
The 6A manual has a spec of 22-25 lbs measured at the axel bolt with a fish scale
(IIRC). Since that bolt will now be farther back (physics is our friend) the
same spec would result in a greater torque at the swivel point...just trying
to remember my High School math and physics lessons....
How are you doing it?
Thanks,
Ralph Capen
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Leikam" <daveleikam(at)wi.rr.com> |
| Subject: | How tight to make the plumbing fittings? |
How much torque should I apply to 37 degree flare fittings and other NPT
fittings for brake and fuel line connections? Thanks for all the input
everyone. Building is slowly accelerating as I move through the
fuselage!
Dave Leikam
#40496 N89DA (Reserved)
Muskego, WI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fred Williams, M.D." <drfred(at)suddenlinkmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Nosewheel breakout force |
Ralph;
Don't know if this will help on the math issue. Here's a good website
for a torque calculator.
You should be able to measure your distances and calculate the torque
needed to spec.
http://www.norbar.com/Calculators/TorqueWrenchExtensionCalculator/tabid/70/Default.aspx
Fred
Ralph E. Capen wrote:
>
> I'm putting a 5x5 wheel/tire up front on my 6A and need to know what you folks
are using for a nosewheel breakout force setting and how you are measuring it.
>
> The 6A manual has a spec of 22-25 lbs measured at the axel bolt with a fish scale
(IIRC). Since that bolt will now be farther back (physics is our friend)
the same spec would result in a greater torque at the swivel point...just trying
to remember my High School math and physics lessons....
>
> How are you doing it?
>
> Thanks,
> Ralph Capen
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Roger Standley" <taildragon(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | N291RV flies on July 1, 2008 |
=0AN291RV had its first, second and third flights today! WOW! Great
plane! What a beast! Handles almost hands free. At hi cruise, it need
s a little left rudder to center the ball. =0ATotal time 1.75 hours
!=0AAll went well with only a few minor problems to work through. I
dle EGT on #6 cylinder was high and was found to be an out-of-round in
take pipe causing an air intake leak. Late in first flight, the #2 CHT
suddenly went high and was later traced to the CHT probe. =0AThe p
lan is to continue tomorrow.=0A=0ARoger Standley=0ABuilder Fl
yer #40291=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Nosewheel breakout force |
Neat tool....thanks
-----Original Message-----
>From: "Fred Williams, M.D." <drfred(at)suddenlinkmail.com>
>Sent: Jul 2, 2008 9:12 AM
>To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV10-List: Nosewheel breakout force
>
>
>Ralph;
>
>Don't know if this will help on the math issue. Here's a good website
>for a torque calculator.
>
>You should be able to measure your distances and calculate the torque
>needed to spec.
>
>http://www.norbar.com/Calculators/TorqueWrenchExtensionCalculator/tabid/70/Default.aspx
>
>Fred
>
>
>Ralph E. Capen wrote:
>>
>> I'm putting a 5x5 wheel/tire up front on my 6A and need to know what you folks
are using for a nosewheel breakout force setting and how you are measuring
it.
>>
>> The 6A manual has a spec of 22-25 lbs measured at the axel bolt with a fish
scale (IIRC). Since that bolt will now be farther back (physics is our friend)
the same spec would result in a greater torque at the swivel point...just trying
to remember my High School math and physics lessons....
>>
>> How are you doing it?
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Ralph Capen
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Leikam" <daveleikam(at)wi.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: N291RV flies on July 1, 2008 |
Way to go!
Dave Leikam
#40496 N89DA (Reserved)
Muskego, WI
----- Original Message -----
From: Roger Standley
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, July 02, 2008 8:26 AM
Subject: RV10-List: N291RV flies on July 1, 2008
N291RV had its first, second and third flights today! WOW! Great
plane! What a beast! Handles almost hands free. At hi cruise, it needs a
little left rudder to center the ball.
Total time 1.75 hours!
All went well with only a few minor problems to work through. Idle EGT
on #6 cylinder was high and was found to be an out-of-round intake pipe
causing an air intake leak Late in first flight, the #2 CHT suddenly
went high and was later traced to the CHT probe.
The plan is to continue tomorrow.
Roger Standley
Builder Flyer #40291
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | N291RV flies on July 1, 2008 |
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
Congratulations!
Bob
RV-10 N442PM (flying)
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Roger
Standley
Sent: Wednesday, July 02, 2008 8:27 AM
Subject: RV10-List: N291RV flies on July 1, 2008
N291RV had its first, second and third flights today! WOW! Great plane!
What a beast! Handles almost hands free. At hi cruise, it needs a little
left rudder to center the ball.
Total time 1.75 hours!
All went well with only a few minor problems to work through. Idle EGT
on #6 cylinder was high and was found to be an out-of-round intake pipe
causing an air intake leak Late in first flight, the #2 CHT suddenly
went high and was later traced to the CHT probe.
The plan is to continue tomorrow.
Roger Standley
Builder Flyer #40291
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | N291RV flies on July 1, 2008 |
| From: | "Robin Marks" <robin1(at)mrmoisture.com> |
Way to go Roger! Were you given a 25 or 40 hour fly off?
Robin
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Roger
Standley
Sent: Wednesday, July 02, 2008 6:27 AM
Subject: RV10-List: N291RV flies on July 1, 2008
N291RV had its first, second and third flights today! WOW! Great plane!
What a beast! Handles almost hands free. At hi cruise, it needs a little
left rudder to center the ball.
Total time 1.75 hours!
All went well with only a few minor problems to work through. Idle EGT
on #6 cylinder was high and was found to be an out-of-round intake pipe
causing an air intake leak Late in first flight, the #2 CHT suddenly
went high and was later traced to the CHT probe.
The plan is to continue tomorrow.
Roger Standley
Builder Flyer #40291
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | How tight to make the plumbing fittings? |
| From: | "Bobby J. Hughes" <bhughes(at)qnsi.net> |
Aeroquip specifications 37 degree fittings.
Bobby
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Leikam
Sent: Wednesday, July 02, 2008 7:11 AM
Subject: RV10-List: How tight to make the plumbing fittings?
How much torque should I apply to 37 degree flare fittings and other NPT
fittings for brake and fuel line connections? Thanks for all the input
everyone. Building is slowly accelerating as I move through the
fuselage!
Dave Leikam
#40496 N89DA (Reserved)
Muskego, WI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Roger Standley" <taildragon(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: N291RV flies on July 1, 2008 |
Hi Robin,=0A=0A25 hour fly off.=0A ----- Original Message --
--- =0A From: Robin Marks<mailto:robin1(at)mrmoisture.com> =0A To
: rv10-list(at)matronics.com =0A Sent
: Wednesday, July 02, 2008 7:45 AM=0A Subject: RE: RV10-List: N291
RV flies on July 1, 2008=0A=0A=0A Way to go Roger! Were you
given a 25 or 40 hour fly off?=0A=0A =0A=0A Robin=0A
=0A =0A=0A From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com<mail
to:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-serve
r(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Roger Standley=0A Sent: Wednesday, J
uly 02, 2008 6:27 AM=0A To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com=0A Subject: RV10-List: N291RV flies on July 1, 2
008=0A=0A =0A=0A =0A=0A N291RV had its first, s
econd and third flights today! WOW! Great plane! What a beast! Handles
almost hands free. At hi cruise, it needs a little left rudder to cen
ter the ball. =0A=0A Total time 1.75 hours!=0A=0A All we
nt well with only a few minor problems to work through. Idle EGT on #6
cylinder was high and was found to be an out-of-round intake pipe cau
sing an air intake leak Late in first flight, the #2 CHT suddenly went
high and was later traced to the CHT probe. =0A=0A The plan is
to continue tomorrow.=0A=0A =0A=0A Roger Standley
=0A=0A Builder Flyer #40291=0A=0A http://www.matronics.com/
Navigator?RV10-Listhttp://forums.matronics.comhttp://www.matronics.com
=======================
=======================
=======================
=======================
=======================
=======================
=======================
=======0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Sked <ricksked(at)embarqmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: How tight to make the plumbing fittings? |
This is invaluable for performance fittings, go to page 50 for torq anf hex
flat options for torq, I pasted the PDF and also included the link.
Rick Sked
40185
http://hydraulics.eaton.com/products/pdfs/fc/A-SPPE-MC001-E2.pdf
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bobby J. Hughes" <bhughes(at)qnsi.net>
Sent: Wednesday, July 2, 2008 8:56:25 AM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: RE: RV10-List: How tight to make the plumbing fittings?
=C2-Aeroquip specifications 37 degree fittings.
Bobby
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Leikam
Sent: Wednesday, July 02, 2008 7:11 AM
Subject: RV10-List: How tight to make the plumbing fittings?
How much torque should=C2-I apply to 37 degree flare fittings and other N
PT fittings for brake and fuel line connections?=C2- Thanks for all the i
nput everyone.=C2- Building is slowly accelerating as I move through the
fuselage!
Dave Leikam
#40496=C2- N89DA (Reserved)
Muskego, WI
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.
com/Navigator?RV10-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.
matronics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.mat
ronics.com/c
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RobHickman(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Hysol 9360 Test and Window Install |
Hysol 9360 when properly stored, surface prepped, and properly applied will
give repeatedly great results.
John Cox
N49CX RV-10
I used brand new Hysol 9360 from Lancair (with hardener it is blue) sanded
the test pieces with 60 grit, blown off with air and used a digital scale
accurate to .1 grams. The only thing I did not try is actually waiting for 5-7
days.
I should also add that the Hysol phone support was not real positive about
using it to bond acrylic.
John you should borrow my left over Hysol and actually do your own test just
in case I missed something.
Rob Hickman
**************Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for
fuel-efficient used cars. (http://autos.aol.com/used?ncid=aolaut00050000000007)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Nosewheel breakout force |
Deems Davis wrote:
>
> I have this item on my 'do-over list before flying'. I could not
> obtain the 22-25 lbs, IIRC it was either 17 - 35 depending on which
> face of the nut squared with the cotter pin. I think those Bellvue (?)
They're 'belleville' or 'cupped' washers.
> washers are a little rough and I expect their surface gets 'polished'
> a bit initially.
That's possible.
> Anybody else have similar experience and a solution?
The same nose gear system is used on the little Grummans. Go to
http://www.sbw.org/nosestrut/ for a drawing. It shows the correct
orientation of the belleville washers (for my Grumman anyway).
Conventional wisdom (for the Grummans) is to increase the 25 pound pull
to 30 or 35. This is where 'tighten until shimmy quits' but you still
need to be able to horse it around if you don't have the towbar handy.
While we're here on the nosewheel subject ..... that cotter pin is
terribly important ..... and you probably should use a mirror to inspect
it as a part of your preflight.
As for the 'retighten' problem ..... remember that not only the
belleville washers are getting some 'polishing' .... so is the strut
bushing and flat washers ...... in other words ..... all the moving
parts are subject to wearing in.
Linn
>
> Deems Davis # 406
> working on the last MOD (really!!!!!)
> http://deemsrv10.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PJ Seipel <seipel(at)seznam.cz> |
| Subject: | Re: Hysol 9360 Test and Window Install |
I wonder if your Hysol was bad/old or something. I used the blue and
haven't had any issues yet. I'll be home this weekend and I'll bang on
my windows a bit and see what happens. For what it's worth, when I did
mine, I sanded with 40 grit and then wiped with 100% alcohol before
bonding it. I left it clamped for over a week because I was having a
hard time keeping the garage at 70 degrees due to the outside temp being
low.
PJ Seipel
RV-10 #40032
RobHickman(at)aol.com wrote:
> Hysol 9360 when properly stored, surface prepped, and properly applied
> will give repeatedly great results.
>
> John Cox
>
> N49CX RV-10
>
> I used brand new Hysol 9360 from Lancair (with hardener it is blue)
> sanded the test pieces with 60 grit, blown off with air and used a
> digital scale accurate to .1 grams. The only thing I did not try is
> actually waiting for 5-7 days.
>
> I should also add that the Hysol phone support was not real positive
> about using it to bond acrylic.
>
> John you should borrow my left over Hysol and actually do your own
> test just in case I missed something.
>
>
> Rob Hickman
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for fuel-efficient used
> cars <http://autos.aol.com/used?ncid=aolaut00050000000007>.
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Marcus Cooper" <coop85(at)cableone.net> |
| Subject: | N291RV flies on July 1, 2008 |
Roger, Congratulations!
Best of luck with the testing and then on to great adventures.
Marcus
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Roger Standley
Sent: Wednesday, July 02, 2008 8:27 AM
Subject: RV10-List: N291RV flies on July 1, 2008
N291RV had its first, second and third flights today! WOW! Great plane! What
a beast! Handles almost hands free. At hi cruise, it needs a little left
rudder to center the ball.
Total time 1.75 hours!
All went well with only a few minor problems to work through. Idle EGT on #6
cylinder was high and was found to be an out-of-round intake pipe causing an
air intake leak Late in first flight, the #2 CHT suddenly went high and was
later traced to the CHT probe.
The plan is to continue tomorrow.
Roger Standley
Builder Flyer #40291
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | N291RV flies on July 1, 2008 |
| From: | "McGANN, Ron" <ron.mcgann(at)baesystems.com> |
Congratulations Roger - way to go!
May I ask how you fixed the out-of-round intake pipe?
cheers,
Ron
187 almost done.
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Roger
Standley
Sent: Wednesday, 2 July 2008 10:57 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: N291RV flies on July 1, 2008
N291RV had its first, second and third flights today! WOW! Great
plane! What a beast! Handles almost hands free. At hi cruise, it needs a
little left rudder to center the ball.
Total time 1.75 hours!
All went well with only a few minor problems to work through.
Idle EGT on #6 cylinder was high and was found to be an out-of-round
intake pipe causing an air intake leak Late in first flight, the #2 CHT
suddenly went high and was later traced to the CHT probe.
The plan is to continue tomorrow.
Roger Standley
Builder Flyer #40291
"Warning:
The information contained in this email and any attached files is
confidential to BAE Systems Australia. If you are not the intended
recipient, any use, disclosure or copying of this email or any
attachments is expressly prohibited. If you have received this email
in error, please notify us immediately. VIRUS: Every care has been
taken to ensure this email and its attachments are virus free,
however, any loss or damage incurred in using this email is not the
sender's responsibility. It is your responsibility to ensure virus
checks are completed before installing any data sent in this email to
your computer."
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Ackerman <johnag5b(at)cableone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Nosewheel breakout force |
What type of grease, Bob?
On Jul 2, 2008, at 10:33 AM, Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrote:
> >
>
> Rick,
>
> I had to re-torque after only about 25 hours. I also noted another
> RV-10 that obviously needed re-torquing (nosewheel freely swinging
> around during a landing that I saw from the ground). That plane had
> about 35 hours on it at the time.
>
> Other thing that I noted is that the initial grease infusion
> (Aeroshell
> #5) didn't last very long - you could hear binding noises while
> turning
> the nosewheel with the towbar. I wound up taking things apart,
> cleaning
> them up and then switching to a different type of grease which seems
> to
> be working better.
>
> Bob
> N442PM (flying)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Nosewheel breakout force |
| From: | "bcondrey" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
I switched to a heavy bearing grease with graphite in it. It was recommended as
tending to "stay put" better than the Aeroshell #5. I got it at a local auto
parts store and it's apparently widely used on farm equipment.
It may be that the #5 would work great and that for some reason either the grease
didn't fully "flood" the assembly or that it somehow worked it's way out over
the first 25 hours or so as things loosened up. I noticed a strange sound
when turning the nosewheel after about the first 25 hours and took things apart
to investigate. First thing I noticed was how loose the fork was from the "break
in" of the belleville washers. I found a little grease on the bushing but
virtually none on the shaft. It must have made it through the fitting since
there was grease on the bushing and it also squeezed out the top when originally
filled. I also noticed a little mild surface rust on the shaft at that point.
I cleaned everything up, polished the shaft and switched to the heavier
grease. I've only got about 25 hours on the plane since then but it's clear
that there is still grease in the assembly and no other issues.
I haven't heard of this in any other plane so it might be that somehow the assembly
just didn't get lubed sufficiently the first time. In any case, all seems
well now but I'm watching it very closely.
Bob
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=190994#190994
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Sked <ricksked(at)embarqmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Nosewheel breakout force |
My only concern is the graphite...which is abrasive by nature..wouldn't that cause
more wear?
Rick S.
40185
----- Original Message -----
From: "bcondrey" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com>
Sent: Wednesday, July 2, 2008 7:23:48 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Nosewheel breakout force
I switched to a heavy bearing grease with graphite in it. It was recommended as
tending to "stay put" better than the Aeroshell #5. I got it at a local auto
parts store and it's apparently widely used on farm equipment.
It may be that the #5 would work great and that for some reason either the grease
didn't fully "flood" the assembly or that it somehow worked it's way out over
the first 25 hours or so as things loosened up. I noticed a strange sound
when turning the nosewheel after about the first 25 hours and took things apart
to investigate. First thing I noticed was how loose the fork was from the "break
in" of the belleville washers. I found a little grease on the bushing but
virtually none on the shaft. It must have made it through the fitting since
there was grease on the bushing and it also squeezed out the top when originally
filled. I also noticed a little mild surface rust on the shaft at that point.
I cleaned everything up, polished the shaft and switched to the heavier
grease. I've only got about 25 hours on the plane since then but it's clear
that there is still grease in the assembly and no other issues.
I haven't heard of this in any other plane so it might be that somehow the assembly
just didn't get lubed sufficiently the first time. In any case, all seems
well now but I'm watching it very closely.
Bob
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=190994#190994
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | gasoline rebates |
There are credit cards that provide a 3-5% rebate on fuel purchases. The key
is that the fuel purchase is coded as vehicle expense when sent to the card
company. BP supposedly provides 5% but their prices are so OTT that the
rebate is worthless; as well as the credit limit they supply for the card
allows about 80 gallons of fuel per month at today's prices. A Chase card
provides 3% rebate on any fuel purchase that is coded "vehicle expenses".
This might help a little on the OSH trip this year.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
| Subject: | gasoline rebates |
I have had a difference experience with BP. I suspect that the credit
limit is most likely tied to your credit score. Most of the FBOs in my area
sell BP, so we don't really have a choice. The FBO at my airport also keys
all maintenance, tie down, and hangar fees to get the max rebate. A friend
of mine just got a rather nice rebate after having a Garmin 530 installed in
his plane. My only complaint is that you must manually request them to
issue the rebate check.
Btw, the BP card is a Chase card too. As a former employee, I'm not a fan
of Chase, but I do use the BP card quite often for my aviation fuel and auto
gas.
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David McNeill
Sent: Thursday, July 03, 2008 12:42 AM
Subject: RV10-List: gasoline rebates
There are credit cards that provide a 3-5% rebate on fuel purchases. The key
is that the fuel purchase is coded as vehicle expense when sent to the card
company. BP supposedly provides 5% but their prices are so OTT that the
rebate is worthless; as well as the credit limit they supply for the card
allows about 80 gallons of fuel per month at today's prices. A Chase card
provides 3% rebate on any fuel purchase that is coded "vehicle expenses".
This might help a little on the OSH trip this year.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Roger Standley" <taildragon(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: N291RV flies on July 1, 2008 |
Hi Ron,=0A=0AThe lower (unflanged) end of the pipe was out of ro
und. Looked like it could have resulted from being dropped. We pulled
the pipe when several attempts to seal it by tightening and reposition
ing the clamps didn't work. It turns out that over tightening will puc
ker the hose and cause a leak. The trick is to round up the pipe, use
a fresh hose and just gently snug up the clamps. Wish I could remember
the name of the tool we used to do the rounding. One of the guys had
a set of tapered steel "plugs", all sizes. We found the one that fit,
tapped it in gently with a wooded hammer, and made the pipe perfectly
round.=0A=0ARoger=0A ----- Original Message ----- =0A Fr
om: McGANN, Ron =0A To: rv10-lis
t(at)matronics.com =0A Sent: Wednesda
y, July 02, 2008 4:28 PM=0A Subject: RE: RV10-List: N291RV flies o
n July 1, 2008=0A=0A=0A Congratulations Roger - way to go!
=0A=0A May I ask how you fixed the out-of-round intake pipe?
=0A=0A cheers,=0A Ron=0A 187 almost done.=0A=0A
=0A=0A-------------------------------------------------------------
---------------=0A From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com<ma
ilto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-ser
ver(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Roger Standley=0A Sent: Wednesda
y, 2 July 2008 10:57 PM=0A To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com=0A Subject: RV10-List: N291RV flies on Ju
ly 1, 2008=0A=0A=0A=0A N291RV had its first, second and
third flights today! WOW! Great plane! What a beast! Handles almost h
ands free. At hi cruise, it needs a little left rudder to center the b
all. =0A Total time 1.75 hours!=0A All went well with only
a few minor problems to work through. Idle EGT on #6 cylinder was hig
h and was found to be an out-of-round intake pipe causing an air intak
e leak Late in first flight, the #2 CHT suddenly went high and was lat
er traced to the CHT probe. =0A The plan is to continue tomorrow
=0A=0A Roger Standley=0A Builder Flyer #40291=0A
=0A=0A=0Ap://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List=0Aics.com
=0A.matronics.com/contribution=0A=0A"Warning:=0AThe inform
ation contained in this email and any attached files is=0Aconfident
ial to BAE Systems Australia. If you are not the intended=0Arecipie
nt, any use, disclosure or copying of this email or any=0Aattachmen
ts is expressly prohibited. If you have received this email=0Ain e
rror, please notify us immediately. VIRUS: Every care has been=0Ata
ken to ensure this email and its attachments are virus free,=0Ahowe
ver, any loss or damage incurred in using this email is not the=0As
ender's responsibility. It is your responsibility to ensure virus
=0Achecks are completed before installing any data sent in this email
=======================
=======================
vigator?RV10-List<http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List>=0A_
-=======================
=======================
=======================
=======================
=======================
=======================
=============0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Nosewheel breakout force |
Thanks to all who replied for the advice and additional information. I
did receive one suggestion off-line that I think is worthy of mention to
the list. And that was to do your own 'polishing' of the Bellvillle
washers before installing them. i.e. Carefully use a piece of
sandpaper/emory cloth or a belt sander to 'polish' a small (1/32" ?)
flat one each of the washers where they contact one another, being
careful to keep them even. I suspect that this will accomplish what the
airplane does in the 1st 75- ? hours of operations. If anyone is coming
up on a conditional inspection, and is planning on removing and
regreasing these, it would be interesting so see a picture of what
these mating surfaces look like after so many hours.
Deems Davis # 406
Last big mod being installed, then off to paint shop next week
http://deemsrv10.com/
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Lightspeed - purchase |
| From: | "n277dl" <dljinia(at)yahoo.com> |
Group... where's the best (translate cheapest) place to purchase a single lightspeed
ignition system. Bought my engine from Vans at sun-n-fun but want to add
the lightspeed. Only place I find to purchase is either direct or aircraft
spruce.
Thanks,
Doug
--------
Doug
"Fools" are always more creative than process people and will always
find ways to ruin a perfectly good set of processes.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=191112#191112
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Opps - anyone need a Left side Wing tip lens VA-193 |
| From: | "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> |
Yes - I messed mine up the first time around and had to purchase a replacement.
Vans makes you buy the clear wing tip lens in a set ($60), so I have an extra
pilot side lens. If anyone needs a replacement or has a scratched or damaged
lens, I would love to split the expense. Naturally, I will destroy my Left Side
VA-193 and need this extra lens right after I sell it, but we all need to add
spice to our lives......
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
Q/B Kit - exited cabin top/door purgatory
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=191128#191128
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Nosewheel breakout force |
| From: | "bcondrey" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
Good catch Tim! I've always known about the pencil on aluminum thing but didn't
think about the grease. Granted, most of the surface is bronze bushing and
steel shaft, but the fork aluminum is exposed between the upper and lower bushings.
I don't know if the grease has the same issues but will change to something
else if I can't get positive confirmation that it's OK. Too late to touch
base with Van's until Monday...
For those with a lot more airframe hours than I've got, what are you using for
grease in the nose fork assembly? Does the grease utilization go down after the
"break in" of the bellville washers?
Bob
N442PM (flying)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=191194#191194
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris and Susie McGough" <VHMUM(at)bigpond.com> |
| Subject: | Another first flight VH-ICY RV10 |
VH-ICY RV10 first flight Kyneton Australia today ....
regards Chris
More info soon as have to go to night shift
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Another first flight VH-ICY RV10 |
| From: | "Michael Wellenzohn" <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net> |
Chris,
congratulations!! Show us some pictures please. Any data or special things to mention
about the first flight?
All the best from Zurich
Michael
--------
RV-10 builder (engine, prop, finishing)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=191203#191203
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Another first flight VH-ICY RV10 |
| From: | "McGANN, Ron" <ron.mcgann(at)baesystems.com> |
Congratulations Chris - looking forward to the flight reports.
cheers,
Ron
-187, nearly there
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of Chris and Susie McG
ough
Sent: Fri 7/4/2008 4:53 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Another first flight VH-ICY RV10
om>
VH-ICY RV10 first flight Kyneton Australia today ....
regards Chris
More info soon as have to go to night shift
"Warning:
The information contained in this email and any attached files is
confidential to BAE Systems Australia. If you are not the intended
recipient, any use, disclosure or copying of this email or any
attachments is expressly prohibited. If you have received this email
in error, please notify us immediately. VIRUS: Every care has been
taken to ensure this email and its attachments are virus free,
however, any loss or damage incurred in using this email is not the
sender's responsibility. It is your responsibility to ensure virus
checks are completed before installing any data sent in this email to
your computer."
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Dunne" <acs(at)acspropeller.com.au> |
| Subject: | Re: Another first flight VH-ICY RV10 |
Congratulations Chris, you've put in a fantastic effort!
Cheers,
John 40315
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris and Susie McGough" <VHMUM(at)bigpond.com>
Sent: Friday, July 04, 2008 5:23 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Another first flight VH-ICY RV10
>
>
> VH-ICY RV10 first flight Kyneton Australia today ....
>
> regards Chris
>
> More info soon as have to go to night shift
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Control Approach - Rudder pedals |
Earlier this week Paul Grimstad posted a message along with a picture of
his newly developed rudder pedals for the RV-10. The following day a
package arrived at the Davis house hold with production model #1. I saw
Pauls prototype over a year ago at a dinner at his Home in Oregon, and
persuaded him, that if he ever decided to produce them for others to
make me his 1st customer. True to his word Paul called and said 'they're
ready' and my check was in the mail. I finished with the installation
yesterday, you can read about it on my website.
http://deemsrv10.com/Home-77.htm
http://deemsrv10.com/Home-78.htm
http://deemsrv10.com/Home-78.htm
I've created a picture album as well:
http://deemsrv10.com/album/Control%20Approach%20Rudder-Brake%20Pedals/index.html
Paul has done an EXCEPTIONAL job developing these, all of the pieces are
CAD designed, The metal parts are all precision machined, or laser cut.
the welding is done in jigs, the fit is perfect! This is the last
modification I plan on making (I promise !) I've patiently waited while
Paul's perfected these, but it's been well worth it.
Deems Davis # 406
'Its all done....Its just not put together'
http://deemsrv10.com/
PS. I've got no financial interest in this, I do count myself as a
friend of Pauls' and want this to be a sucess for him.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kelly McMullen" <apilot2(at)GMAIL.COM> |
| Subject: | Re: Control Approach - Rudder pedals |
Golly gee whiz Deems, you are fast! One might think you were on a
mission or sumptin. Looks great!
On Fri, Jul 4, 2008 at 6:55 AM, Deems Davis wrote:
>
> Earlier this week Paul Grimstad posted a message along with a picture of his
> newly developed rudder pedals for the RV-10. The following day a package
> arrived at the Davis house hold with production model #1. I saw Pauls
> prototype over a year ago at a dinner at his Home in Oregon, and persuaded
> him, that if he ever decided to produce them for others to make me his 1st
> customer. True to his word Paul called and said 'they're ready' and my check
> was in the mail. I finished with the installation yesterday, you can read
> about it on my website.
>
> http://deemsrv10.com/Home-77.htm
> http://deemsrv10.com/Home-78.htm
> http://deemsrv10.com/Home-78.htm
>
> I've created a picture album as well:
>
> http://deemsrv10.com/album/Control%20Approach%20Rudder-Brake%20Pedals/index.html
>
>
> Paul has done an EXCEPTIONAL job developing these, all of the pieces are CAD
> designed, The metal parts are all precision machined, or laser cut. the
> welding is done in jigs, the fit is perfect! This is the last modification I
> plan on making (I promise !) I've patiently waited while Paul's perfected
> these, but it's been well worth it.
>
>
> Deems Davis # 406
> 'Its all done....Its just not put together'
> http://deemsrv10.com/
>
>
> PS. I've got no financial interest in this, I do count myself as a friend of
> Pauls' and want this to be a sucess for him.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "gary" <speckter(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Control Approach - Rudder pedals |
Us big guys with trifocals just hate working under the panel like that.
Looks great, wish they would have been available when I did mine, but the
discomfort of redoing the rudders convinces me to leave well enough alone
and just go flying.
Gary
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
Sent: Friday, July 04, 2008 8:55 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Control Approach - Rudder pedals
Earlier this week Paul Grimstad posted a message along with a picture of
his newly developed rudder pedals for the RV-10. The following day a
package arrived at the Davis house hold with production model #1. I saw
Pauls prototype over a year ago at a dinner at his Home in Oregon, and
persuaded him, that if he ever decided to produce them for others to
make me his 1st customer. True to his word Paul called and said 'they're
ready' and my check was in the mail. I finished with the installation
yesterday, you can read about it on my website.
http://deemsrv10.com/Home-77.htm
http://deemsrv10.com/Home-78.htm
http://deemsrv10.com/Home-78.htm
I've created a picture album as well:
http://deemsrv10.com/album/Control%20Approach%20Rudder-Brake%20Pedals/index.
html
Paul has done an EXCEPTIONAL job developing these, all of the pieces are
CAD designed, The metal parts are all precision machined, or laser cut.
the welding is done in jigs, the fit is perfect! This is the last
modification I plan on making (I promise !) I've patiently waited while
Paul's perfected these, but it's been well worth it.
Deems Davis # 406
'Its all done....Its just not put together'
http://deemsrv10.com/
PS. I've got no financial interest in this, I do count myself as a
friend of Pauls' and want this to be a sucess for him.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ben Westfall" <rv10(at)sinkrate.com> |
| Subject: | Sec 29 follow-up question |
Back in Sec 29-17 & 18 (links below for reference)
http://www.myrv10.com/Plans/RV10_Plans_sec29-pg17.html
http://www.myrv10.com/Plans/RV10_Plans_sec29-pg18.html
When riveting the fuse side skins to the understructure the plans state in
bold several times to "Only rivet the locations that have rivet callouts".
Were "excited" to start the process of attaching the cabin top this weekend
and I keep coming back to this Sec 29 about riveting the F-1015C Mid Cabin
Decks. From the Figures you can clearly see that there are no rivet
callouts for every 3rd rivet that goes through the side skins into the Mid
Cabin Decks so being astute Van's plans followers we skipped those rivet
locations. Fast forward to Section 43 - Cabin Top and I'm still wondering
when were suppose to rivet these? I've skimmed the plans several times and
have not seen.
1) The reason for skipping those rivets in Sec 29?
2) The place further in the plans where we are supposed to complete
those sections?
Can anyone enlighten me as to what/where I am missing out on this please? I
really doubt it's a "weight saving" feature.
-Ben Westfall
Happy 4th of July.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris" <toaster73(at)embarqmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Sec 29 follow-up question |
The holes are used to locate the doors and drill holes in the doors to
join the inner and outer doors together. I suppose they are riveted
after the doors are fitted, can't recall exactly.
Chris
#40072
----- Original Message -----
From: Ben Westfall
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Friday, July 04, 2008 11:02 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Sec 29 follow-up question
Back in Sec 29-17 & 18 (links below for reference)
http://www.myrv10.com/Plans/RV10_Plans_sec29-pg17.html
http://www.myrv10.com/Plans/RV10_Plans_sec29-pg18.html
When riveting the fuse side skins to the understructure the plans
state in bold several times to "Only rivet the locations that have rivet
callouts". Were "excited" to start the process of attaching the cabin
top this weekend and I keep coming back to this Sec 29 about riveting
the F-1015C Mid Cabin Decks. From the Figures you can clearly see that
there are no rivet callouts for every 3rd rivet that goes through the
side skins into the Mid Cabin Decks so being astute Van's plans
followers we skipped those rivet locations. Fast forward to Section 43
- Cabin Top and I'm still wondering when were suppose to rivet these?
I've skimmed the plans several times and have not seen.
1) The reason for skipping those rivets in Sec 29?
2) The place further in the plans where we are supposed to
complete those sections?
Can anyone enlighten me as to what/where I am missing out on this
please? I really doubt it's a "weight saving" feature.
-Ben Westfall
Happy 4th of July.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Sec 29 follow-up question |
| From: | "egohr1" <EGOHR86(at)alumni.carnegiemellon.edu> |
These holes are used to clamp the door halves together while they cure.
I never found a spot in the plans were it said to rivet them, but I filled the
holes after the doors where completed.
Eric Gohr
In the maze of wires.
--------
eric gohr
EGOHR86(at)alumni.carnegiemellon.edu
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=191308#191308
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ben Westfall" <rv10(at)sinkrate.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Sec 29 follow-up question |
Thanks guys, makes sense.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of egohr1
Sent: Saturday, July 05, 2008 5:42 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Sec 29 follow-up question
These holes are used to clamp the door halves together while they cure.
I never found a spot in the plans were it said to rivet them, but I filled
the holes after the doors where completed.
Eric Gohr
In the maze of wires.
--------
eric gohr
EGOHR86(at)alumni.carnegiemellon.edu
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=191308#191308
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Control Approach - Rudder pedals |
OK, I'll bite, what is it about the Grove brake cyls that make them an
upgrade? (I can't stand knowing there's a mod/upgrade I haven't considered )
The whole shebang took 12 hours. of that 1 1/2 was removing center
console and associated electronics.
It took another 1 1/2 hours to remove the old rudder pedals.
fitting the tunnel cover and cutting the slots (took me 3 times) and re
routing the Scat tubes took 3 hours.
Installing the new pedal assembly and connecting the rudder cables took
2 hours.
Remounting the brake cylinders took 4 hours
I figure this should be about worst case:
a. I'm slow
b. It was/is 110-112 degrees
c. my panel is 2 inches lower than stock further restricting access
d. I'm fat (but working on it)
e. I'm old (working on it as well but haven't made much progress)
If these were being installed during the build vs a retrofit, without
the instrument panel or upper fwd fuse in place, it should take no more
than 2-3 hours total. Given that they come fully assembled, that would
actually be a time savings over the stock pedals.
Deems Davis # 406
'Its all done....Its just not put together'
http://deemsrv10.com/
John Cox wrote:
>
> Your pictures look like the Matco's bolted right up. That would mean my
> upgrade to Groves should fit fine.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Control Approach - Rudder pedals |
| From: | "John Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> |
The Groves had/have improved machining, HD O-rings and could sustain
higher pressure creation. They might have had a slightly larger
capacity. They were black anodized - not gold (Kool). They remain the
choice of Lancair builders who are upgrading performance(but that is not
enough after Matco's are installed). They have a Helper spring on the
outside of the shaft to assist to a Return to No Brake mode.
I have suggested to Paul that a 1/8 Elbow fitting added at the firewall
would assist Retro Builders to redirect Scat tubing away from his
fulcrum arms. He is considering that.
The DHI lines are a Big Deal. There have been lots of upgrades from
Nylaflow lines.
Lancairs come across the fence 50% faster than a VANS (in flare) and
more than 60% heavier (with WOW). That all works into the math
calculation for rotor mass, pad surface area and pressure of H-5606.
When the brakes get mushy and the field is short, the operators look to
improved performance. Lancairs need hard surface and 4,000+. Tim
wanted Dirt or Grass and 2500 feet. When there is a cliff, trees or a
dogleg, the improved braking becomes a bigger deal than just HP.
Tim went with dual calipers and 75% more rotor mass (I think 0.435"
rather than 0.250"). I have a firm back east, that grooves my rotors on
the BMWs. The groove is set to minimum caliper width so it is also an
indicator line for rotor replacement. It allows outgassing from the
heated pads to dissipate and return to conversion of energy mass into
friction and heat. It is the heat dissipation that is the science.
Hoyt Fleming put NACAs ducts on the side of his wheel pants and cooling
ducts internally like on NASCAR vehicles to direct the flow over the
rotors. I told John Jessen it is the heat buildup that caused NASCAR to
go to a cool down lap to avoid warping of the rotors from uneven
cooling. Seems the pads were retaining heat and contributing to rotor
warp. It is much like the respect pilots should have for turbo oil and
a cooling cycle before shutdown. Short taxis should be avoided on hot
days. Land long, taxi back, save rotors and $$$.
John
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
Sent: Saturday, July 05, 2008 5:54 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Control Approach - Rudder pedals
OK, I'll bite, what is it about the Grove brake cyls that make them an
upgrade? (I can't stand knowing there's a mod/upgrade I haven't
considered )
The whole shebang took 12 hours. of that 1 1/2 was removing center
console and associated electronics.
It took another 1 1/2 hours to remove the old rudder pedals.
fitting the tunnel cover and cutting the slots (took me 3 times) and re
routing the Scat tubes took 3 hours.
Installing the new pedal assembly and connecting the rudder cables took
2 hours.
Remounting the brake cylinders took 4 hours
I figure this should be about worst case:
a. I'm slow
b. It was/is 110-112 degrees
c. my panel is 2 inches lower than stock further restricting access
d. I'm fat (but working on it)
e. I'm old (working on it as well but haven't made much progress)
If these were being installed during the build vs a retrofit, without
the instrument panel or upper fwd fuse in place, it should take no more
than 2-3 hours total. Given that they come fully assembled, that would
actually be a time savings over the stock pedals.
Deems Davis # 406
'Its all done....Its just not put together'
http://deemsrv10.com/
John Cox wrote:
>
> Your pictures look like the Matco's bolted right up. That would mean
my
> upgrade to Groves should fit fine.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris and Susie McGough" <VHMUM(at)bigpond.com> |
7.1 hours and going well
Chris
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris and Susie McGough" <VHMUM(at)bigpond.com> |
| Subject: | Re: prop governor changes |
I need to change my governor setting as it will over rev and I can only go
3/4 throttle and take off to keep it 2700rpm. I doubt if the screw
adjustment will be enough so my question for those that have moved the arm
one spline was it a big deal? Does the spline want to turn by it self once
you remove the arm to reposition?
Chris
VH-ICY
7.1 hours and no cracks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | prop governor changes |
No big deal but you do neeed to mark with fine tip marker the current
location. Mark both the spline and the arm. If you are over reving then you
must move the arm clockwise with repsect to the spline. My guess would be at
most two splines. Four hands or a locking wrnech may help to ensure movement
in the correct way. Mine was under reving by 200 rpm. I initially moved it
2-3 splines CCW and it was too much. Adjusted to 1 spline and used the
screw.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris and Susie
McGough
Sent: Sunday, July 06, 2008 4:39 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: prop governor changes
-->
I need to change my governor setting as it will over rev and I can only go
3/4 throttle and take off to keep it 2700rpm. I doubt if the screw
adjustment will be enough so my question for those that have moved the arm
one spline was it a big deal? Does the spline want to turn by it self once
you remove the arm to reposition?
Chris
VH-ICY
7.1 hours and no cracks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | prop governor changes |
You might also need to adjust the low pitch stop on the prop to ensure that
in the event of governor failure that the in-flight overspeed does not
overstress the prop/engine. Overspeed prop conditions are specified in the
prop manual.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris and Susie
McGough
Sent: Sunday, July 06, 2008 4:39 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: prop governor changes
-->
I need to change my governor setting as it will over rev and I can only go
3/4 throttle and take off to keep it 2700rpm. I doubt if the screw
adjustment will be enough so my question for those that have moved the arm
one spline was it a big deal? Does the spline want to turn by it self once
you remove the arm to reposition?
Chris
VH-ICY
7.1 hours and no cracks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Leikam" <daveleikam(at)wi.rr.com> |
Nice!
Dave Leikam
#40496 N89DA (Reserved)
Muskego, WI
----- Original Message -----
From: Chris and Susie McGough
To: McGough, Susie
Sent: Sunday, July 06, 2008 6:21 AM
Subject: RV10-List: VH- ICY
7.1 hours and going well
Chris
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rear Wing Spar question |
| From: | "John Kirkland" <jskirkland(at)webpipe.net> |
The W1007D & E doublers have a flange that nests in there. Dimpling may make the
doublers not fit tightly, as you will now have to dimple them too. The dimples
may not set inside each other very well due to the material thickness.
--------
RV-10 #40333
N540XP (reserved)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=191443#191443
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris and Susie McGough" <VHMUM(at)bigpond.com> |
| Subject: | Re: prop governor changes |
Will do
thanks chris
----- Original Message -----
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Sent: Sunday, July 06, 2008 11:15 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: prop governor changes
>
> No big deal but you do neeed to mark with fine tip marker the current
> location. Mark both the spline and the arm. If you are over reving then
> you
> must move the arm clockwise with repsect to the spline. My guess would be
> at
> most two splines. Four hands or a locking wrnech may help to ensure
> movement
> in the correct way. Mine was under reving by 200 rpm. I initially moved it
> 2-3 splines CCW and it was too much. Adjusted to 1 spline and used the
> screw.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris and Susie
> McGough
> Sent: Sunday, July 06, 2008 4:39 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: prop governor changes
>
> -->
>
> I need to change my governor setting as it will over rev and I can only go
> 3/4 throttle and take off to keep it 2700rpm. I doubt if the screw
> adjustment will be enough so my question for those that have moved the arm
> one spline was it a big deal? Does the spline want to turn by it self once
> you remove the arm to reposition?
>
> Chris
> VH-ICY
> 7.1 hours and no cracks
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris" <toaster73(at)embarqmail.com> |
| Subject: | Home grown overhead console |
Thought I would share some photos of my recently completed overhead
console. I think it came out pretty good. I am still finishing it up
and need to add nut plates to mount the vents, also need to add access
plates etc. I used blue foam as a mold. I shaped the foam and then
taped it on the top. I used tape around the edges to protect the cabin
top. The fillet was done with spackling compound. I sanded the foam
and spackling smooth and then covered with mold release wax. Yes it took
some time but it was not difficult to do.
So... it can be done without buying after market if desired - no special
skills.
-Chris Lucas
#40072
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Home grown overhead console |
Congratulations Chris! while it's not the tidiest environment to work
in, fiberglass can be used for any number of applications, your project
was an ambitious one, but it looks like it turned out quite well,
Deems Davis
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "gary" <speckter(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Home grown overhead console |
Spoken like a true fiberglass convert
Gary Specketer
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
Sent: Monday, July 07, 2008 8:23 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Home grown overhead console
Congratulations Chris! while it's not the tidiest environment to work
in, fiberglass can be used for any number of applications, your project
was an ambitious one, but it looks like it turned out quite well,
Deems Davis
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dawson-Townsend,Timothy" <tdawson-townsend(at)aurora.aero> |
I was planning on having the exterior paint lap over the plexiglass on
the windows to hide the sins on the inside of the glass. Recently, a
local "expert" implied that paint on plexiglass was a no-go. What's the
straight dope?
Tim Dawson-Townsend
40025, endless minutiate
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dawson-Townsend,Timothy" <tdawson-townsend(at)aurora.aero> |
Are folks using "stock" side cowl pins, or the "tabbed" ones that Van's
has ?
Tim Dawson-Townsend
40025, still . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com> |
I used the tabbed ones from Vans.
Rene' Felker
RV-10 N423CF Flying
801-721-6080
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Dawson-Townsend,Timothy
Sent: Monday, July 07, 2008 8:13 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Cowl pins
Are folks using "stock" side cowl pins, or the "tabbed" ones that Van's has
?
Tim Dawson-Townsend
40025, still . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "gary" <speckter(at)comcast.net> |
I have painted numerous windows on several aircraft with no problems except
that on the upper part of the windscreen in rain it will peal back some if
you are above 150 knots. I solve that with the clear urethane tape. Normal
prep by sanding and alcohol cleaning advised. Logic tells you though not to
flood the plexi with paint as the excess solvent is problematic. I spray a
thin coat on first and let that dry as a barrier then paint normally.
Gary Specketer
40274 Flying
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Dawson-Townsend,Timothy
Sent: Monday, July 07, 2008 9:12 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Paint on plexi?
I was planning on having the exterior paint lap over the plexiglass on the
windows to hide the sins on the inside of the glass. Recently, a local
"expert" implied that paint on plexiglass was a no-go. What's the straight
dope?
Tim Dawson-Townsend
40025, endless minutiate
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Home grown overhead console |
Actually it's the other way around, after a Long-EZ and a Lancair 320, I
wanted something 'cleaner' to work on, something where you didn't have
to wait on 'cure' times' to govern work schedules, I thought an RV would
be the ticket, ............. but Van's 'tricked me' !!!!!!! =-O
Deems
gary wrote:
>
> Spoken like a true fiberglass convert
>
> Gary Specketer
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
> Sent: Monday, July 07, 2008 8:23 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Home grown overhead console
>
>
> Congratulations Chris! while it's not the tidiest environment to work
> in, fiberglass can be used for any number of applications, your project
> was an ambitious one, but it looks like it turned out quite well,
>
> Deems Davis
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cumins" <jcumins(at)jcis.net> |
| Subject: | Control Approach - Rudder pedals |
Looks like I want a set when I get to that part in the build process. I am
only on page 6-3 of the Vertical Stab but loving every minute of it.
John G. Cumins
40864 Emp build
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
Sent: Friday, July 04, 2008 6:55 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Control Approach - Rudder pedals
Earlier this week Paul Grimstad posted a message along with a picture of
his newly developed rudder pedals for the RV-10. The following day a
package arrived at the Davis house hold with production model #1. I saw
Pauls prototype over a year ago at a dinner at his Home in Oregon, and
persuaded him, that if he ever decided to produce them for others to
make me his 1st customer. True to his word Paul called and said 'they're
ready' and my check was in the mail. I finished with the installation
yesterday, you can read about it on my website.
http://deemsrv10.com/Home-77.htm
http://deemsrv10.com/Home-78.htm
http://deemsrv10.com/Home-78.htm
I've created a picture album as well:
http://deemsrv10.com/album/Control%20Approach%20Rudder-Brake%20Pedals/index.
html
Paul has done an EXCEPTIONAL job developing these, all of the pieces are
CAD designed, The metal parts are all precision machined, or laser cut.
the welding is done in jigs, the fit is perfect! This is the last
modification I plan on making (I promise !) I've patiently waited while
Paul's perfected these, but it's been well worth it.
Deems Davis # 406
'Its all done....Its just not put together'
http://deemsrv10.com/
PS. I've got no financial interest in this, I do count myself as a
friend of Pauls' and want this to be a sucess for him.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Control Approach - Rudder pedals |
Install them initially during your build and it will be a breeze. You'll
love them.
Deems
John Cumins wrote:
>
> Looks like I want a set when I get to that part in the build process. I am
> only on page 6-3 of the Vertical Stab but loving every minute of it.
>
>
> John G. Cumins
> 40864 Emp build
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
> Sent: Friday, July 04, 2008 6:55 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Control Approach - Rudder pedals
>
>
> Earlier this week Paul Grimstad posted a message along with a picture of
> his newly developed rudder pedals for the RV-10. The following day a
> package arrived at the Davis house hold with production model #1. I saw
> Pauls prototype over a year ago at a dinner at his Home in Oregon, and
> persuaded him, that if he ever decided to produce them for others to
> make me his 1st customer. True to his word Paul called and said 'they're
> ready' and my check was in the mail. I finished with the installation
> yesterday, you can read about it on my website.
>
> http://deemsrv10.com/Home-77.htm
> http://deemsrv10.com/Home-78.htm
> http://deemsrv10.com/Home-78.htm
>
> I've created a picture album as well:
>
> http://deemsrv10.com/album/Control%20Approach%20Rudder-Brake%20Pedals/index.
> html
>
>
> Paul has done an EXCEPTIONAL job developing these, all of the pieces are
> CAD designed, The metal parts are all precision machined, or laser cut.
> the welding is done in jigs, the fit is perfect! This is the last
> modification I plan on making (I promise !) I've patiently waited while
> Paul's perfected these, but it's been well worth it.
>
>
> Deems Davis # 406
> 'Its all done....Its just not put together'
> http://deemsrv10.com/
>
>
> PS. I've got no financial interest in this, I do count myself as a
> friend of Pauls' and want this to be a sucess for him.
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Curtis" <wcurtis(at)nerv10.com> |
Here are some additional ideas I saw at OSH last year. I need to get a picture
of an RV with the Van's ""tabbed" pin.
http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/HingePin/index.html
William
http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/
-------- Original Message --------
> X-Rcpt-To:
>
> I used the tabbed ones from Vans.
>
>
>
> Rene' Felker
>
> RV-10 N423CF Flying
>
> 801-721-6080
>
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> Dawson-Townsend,Timothy
> Sent: Monday, July 07, 2008 8:13 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Cowl pins
>
>
>
> Are folks using "stock" side cowl pins, or the "tabbed" ones that Van's has
> ?
>
>
>
> Tim Dawson-Townsend
>
> 40025, still . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Volunteering and RV-10 Parking at OSH |
| From: | "orchidman" <gary(at)wingscc.com> |
Tim Olson wrote:
> As it turns out, Jeff asked if I could keep the signup list
> for timeslots, and just give it to him there. He's a busy
> dude. So, please, help, and just let me know if/when you
> can. Bring your families, friends, and even some enemies
> if you have to. I'll try to keep track and put together
> a timeslot chart soon and get it posted. Probably not
> today though.
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
> Tim Olson wrote:
>
Sounds like a Saturday evening project at RV-10 HQ. :D
Filling in the schedule that is [Mr. Green]
--------
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
Instrument Panel, Fiberglass - SB
(N2GB registered)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=191636#191636
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Grimstad" <Bldgrv10450(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Home grown overhead console |
Chris,
Good job on the overhead.
You mentioned nut plates, and I wanted to tell you about these:
http://www.aerocraftparts.com/Categories.aspx?Category=07adfbee-0ad0-45
93-a52e-30065aedb553
Just drill your hole in the f/g part and epoxy these in. You pull them
into the drilled hole with the colored rubber bungy and when set-up you
just pull the bungy out and your done.
Paul Grimstad
RV10 450 rudder pedals
----- Original Message -----
From: Chris
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, July 06, 2008 7:43 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Home grown overhead console
Thought I would share some photos of my recently completed overhead
console. I think it came out pretty good. I am still finishing it up
and need to add nut plates to mount the vents, also need to add access
plates etc. I used blue foam as a mold. I shaped the foam and then
taped it on the top. I used tape around the edges to protect the cabin
top. The fillet was done with spackling compound. I sanded the foam
and spackling smooth and then covered with mold release wax. Yes it took
some time but it was not difficult to do.
So... it can be done without buying after market if desired - no
special skills.
-Chris Lucas
#40072
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Paint on plexi? |
| From: | "greghale" <ghale5224(at)aol.com> |
I used PPG's black epoxy primer on the inside of my RV8 windshield. It is also
on the canopy hiding the front support bow. The RV8 is now 8 years old and 800+
hours. The epoxy has not peeled off or crack the windshield. I plan on doing
the same thing on my RV10.
--------
Greg Hale rv8/rv10
www.nwacaptain.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=191645#191645
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Grimstad" <Bldgrv10450(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Control Approach - Rudder pedals |
John
Thanks for your approval. I am working on ordering materials for a quanity
build now.
I'm with you on loving every minute of building this airplane, all be it one
handed for the time being.
Paul Grimstad
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Cumins" <jcumins(at)jcis.net>
Sent: Monday, July 07, 2008 8:44 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Control Approach - Rudder pedals
>
> Looks like I want a set when I get to that part in the build process. I
> am
> only on page 6-3 of the Vertical Stab but loving every minute of it.
>
>
> John G. Cumins
> 40864 Emp build
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
> Sent: Friday, July 04, 2008 6:55 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Control Approach - Rudder pedals
>
>
> Earlier this week Paul Grimstad posted a message along with a picture of
> his newly developed rudder pedals for the RV-10. The following day a
> package arrived at the Davis house hold with production model #1. I saw
> Pauls prototype over a year ago at a dinner at his Home in Oregon, and
> persuaded him, that if he ever decided to produce them for others to
> make me his 1st customer. True to his word Paul called and said 'they're
> ready' and my check was in the mail. I finished with the installation
> yesterday, you can read about it on my website.
>
> http://deemsrv10.com/Home-77.htm
> http://deemsrv10.com/Home-78.htm
> http://deemsrv10.com/Home-78.htm
>
> I've created a picture album as well:
>
> http://deemsrv10.com/album/Control%20Approach%20Rudder-Brake%20Pedals/index.
> html
>
>
> Paul has done an EXCEPTIONAL job developing these, all of the pieces are
> CAD designed, The metal parts are all precision machined, or laser cut.
> the welding is done in jigs, the fit is perfect! This is the last
> modification I plan on making (I promise !) I've patiently waited while
> Paul's perfected these, but it's been well worth it.
>
>
> Deems Davis # 406
> 'Its all done....Its just not put together'
> http://deemsrv10.com/
>
>
> PS. I've got no financial interest in this, I do count myself as a
> friend of Pauls' and want this to be a sucess for him.
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cumins" <jcumins(at)jcis.net> |
| Subject: | Easiest way to remove blue plastic from sheet aluminum |
Well
Call me a rookie. I want to remove strips of the blue plastic over the
rivet rows to I can still protect most of the metal while I work on it and
still set rivets.
What have most of you builders done to do this.
Thanks
John
40864 Emp heaven
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cumins" <jcumins(at)jcis.net> |
| Subject: | primer segestions |
I am looking to find a very easy to spray and manage primer. I do not want
to acid etch and Aldine then prime. So I am looking for a simple primer
that I can spray right on to a scuffed part with reasonable protection. I
am in northern California so no real wet environment at all. Plus I have a
have to park it in.
What would you builders recommend.
Thanks
John
40864
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Easiest way to remove blue plastic from sheet aluminum |
A soldering iron with the tip polished/rounded a bit, so it doesn't
scar the alclad. Although you should be aware some builders have
reported that after some prolonged time in storage, they removed the
plastic and found corrosion ?????. I know that If the blue film gets
exposed to a heat source (direct sunlight e.g.) it will develop
wrinkles, and these areas are opportunities for moisture to collect. I
did the soldering iron thing, myself, and didn't find any corrosion
(but I live in Arizona) However, now as I'm ready for paint, I question
whether the hours spent doing it were worth while. (It did make the
parts 'easier to look at' during the work steps and storage ;-) )
Deems
John Cumins wrote:
>
> Well
>
>
>
> Call me a rookie. I want to remove strips of the blue plastic over
> the rivet rows to I can still protect most of the metal while I work
> on it and still set rivets.
>
>
>
> What have most of you builders done to do this.
>
>
>
> Thanks
>
>
>
> John
>
>
>
> 40864 Emp heaven
>
>
>
>
>
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kelly McMullen" <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: primer segestions |
NAPA #7220 Self Etching Primer (listed at NAPA in their
Martin Senour catalog).
If rattle can primer satisfies you. Not as robust as the 2 part
epoxies. Depends on exposure in your area and how long you intend to
worry about the condition of the plane. I'll be very lucky if I get to
fly mine 20 years.
On Mon, Jul 7, 2008 at 3:46 PM, John Cumins wrote:
> I am looking to find a very easy to spray and manage primer. I do not want
> to acid etch and Aldine then prime. So I am looking for a simple primer
> that I can spray right on to a scuffed part with reasonable protection. I
> am in northern California so no real wet environment at all. Plus I have a
> have to park it in.
>
>
> What would you builders recommend.
>
>
> Thanks
>
>
> John
>
>
> 40864
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Kaufmann" <bob.kaufmann(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Easiest way to remove blue plastic from sheet aluminum |
John
What I did was start a roll and kept building on it. It originally was
small but now I have 3 that are over 6 inches in diameter and about 16
inches long. Just start the plastic on the roll and roll it off.
Bob K
Wiring panel and massive headache
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Cumins
Sent: Monday, July 07, 2008 3:41 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Easiest way to remove blue plastic from sheet aluminum
Well
Call me a rookie. I want to remove strips of the blue plastic over the
rivet rows to I can still protect most of the metal while I work on it and
still set rivets.
What have most of you builders done to do this.
Thanks
John
40864 Emp heaven
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | primer suggestions |
PPG DP-40LF two part self etching epoxy primer. Use PPG DX533 aluminum
cleaner with red Scotchbrite pads to prep the aluminum. Rinse with a lot of
water, let dry then prime.
Very tough, scratch and solvent resistant product. I use the same primer
with PPG concept base coat clear coat for the finish paint. PPG concept is
very forgiving to the amateur painter working in a makeshift paint booth.
Carl Froehlich
RV-8A (425 hrs)
RV-10 (fuselage)
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Cumins
Sent: Monday, July 07, 2008 6:46 PM
Subject: RV10-List: primer segestions
I am looking to find a very easy to spray and manage primer. I do not want
to acid etch and Aldine then prime. So I am looking for a simple primer
that I can spray right on to a scuffed part with reasonable protection. I
am in northern California so no real wet environment at all. Plus I have a
have to park it in.
What would you builders recommend.
Thanks
John
40864
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Sked <ricksked(at)embarqmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Easiest way to remove blue plastic from sheet aluminum |
I think NOT worthwhile...looks cool though, Building Buddy, hangar mate Bob K.
posted a good way to remove the plastic...It works great, just start yourself
out with a roll of the material and use the roll to remove the other pieces, building
yourself an BIGGER roll, the bigger the roll the easier it comes off...or
do what I did last weekend watching (read babysiting) two young fellas about
8 and 9 years old. I turned them loose on the bottom of my fuselage and they
stripped off all the neat little strips I still had...they said it was more
fun than bubble wrap...just were upset it didn't make noise...so I tossed firecrackers
at them while thay did it :) You like Apples??? how ya like them Apples!!!
Ingrates!! :) :)
Rick s.
40185
Making bail for illegal fireworks display
----- Original Message -----
From: "Deems Davis" <deemsdavis(at)cox.net>
Sent: Monday, July 7, 2008 3:59:31 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Easiest way to remove blue plastic from sheet aluminum
A soldering iron with the tip polished/rounded a bit, so it doesn't
scar the alclad. Although you should be aware some builders have
reported that after some prolonged time in storage, they removed the
plastic and found corrosion ?????. I know that If the blue film gets
exposed to a heat source (direct sunlight e.g.) it will develop
wrinkles, and these areas are opportunities for moisture to collect. I
did the soldering iron thing, myself, and didn't find any corrosion
(but I live in Arizona) However, now as I'm ready for paint, I question
whether the hours spent doing it were worth while. (It did make the
parts 'easier to look at' during the work steps and storage ;-) )
Deems
John Cumins wrote:
>
> Well
>
>
>
> Call me a rookie. I want to remove strips of the blue plastic over
> the rivet rows to I can still protect most of the metal while I work
> on it and still set rivets.
>
>
>
> What have most of you builders done to do this.
>
>
>
> Thanks
>
>
>
> John
>
>
>
> 40864 Emp heaven
>
>
>
>
>
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> |
| Subject: | Easiest way to remove blue plastic from sheet aluminum |
I agree with Deems. I started off doing the same thing until a couple people
asked me what the benefit was. I said to protect the parts but that goes out
the window as soon as you realize you have to scuff the whole thing up anyway
to paint and the plastic won't stop anything that would gouge the skins. So
unless you are going to polish the skin and not paint, I wouldn't waste the hours
it will take. Most people have also reported that it is much more difficult
to take off the longer it is left on. And the corrosion problem is real, people
have seen filliform corrosion under the blue wrap. YMMV
Michael
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
Sent: Monday, July 07, 2008 6:00 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Easiest way to remove blue plastic from sheet aluminum
A soldering iron with the tip polished/rounded a bit, so it doesn't
scar the alclad. Although you should be aware some builders have
reported that after some prolonged time in storage, they removed the
plastic and found corrosion ?????. I know that If the blue film gets
exposed to a heat source (direct sunlight e.g.) it will develop
wrinkles, and these areas are opportunities for moisture to collect. I
did the soldering iron thing, myself, and didn't find any corrosion
(but I live in Arizona) However, now as I'm ready for paint, I question
whether the hours spent doing it were worth while. (It did make the
parts 'easier to look at' during the work steps and storage ;-) )
Deems
John Cumins wrote:
>
> Well
>
>
> Call me a rookie. I want to remove strips of the blue plastic over
> the rivet rows to I can still protect most of the metal while I work
> on it and still set rivets.
>
>
> What have most of you builders done to do this.
>
>
> Thanks
>
>
> John
>
>
> 40864 Emp heaven
>
>
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> |
| Subject: | primer suggestions |
DP40 is NOT self etching. It's a catalyzed epoxy primer that can be used a
s a sealer depending how it's mixed. Great stuff though.
Michael
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of Carl Froehlich
Sent: Monday, July 07, 2008 6:32 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: primer suggestions
PPG DP-40LF two part self etching epoxy primer. Use PPG DX533 aluminum cle
aner with red Scotchbrite pads to prep the aluminum. Rinse with a lot of w
ater, let dry then prime.
Very tough, scratch and solvent resistant product. I use the same primer w
ith PPG concept base coat clear coat for the finish paint. PPG concept is
very forgiving to the amateur painter working in a makeshift paint booth.
Carl Froehlich
RV-8A (425 hrs)
RV-10 (fuselage)
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of John Cumins
Sent: Monday, July 07, 2008 6:46 PM
Subject: RV10-List: primer segestions
I am looking to find a very easy to spray and manage primer. I do not want
to acid etch and Aldine then prime. So I am looking for a simple primer t
hat I can spray right on to a scuffed part with reasonable protection. I a
m in northern California so no real wet environment at all. Plus I have a
have to park it in.
What would you builders recommend.
Thanks
John
40864
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
http://forums.matronics.com
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Wright <flywrights(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: primer segestions |
John,=0ABe very careful; we all love what we each did, whether it was 10-pa
rt fingerpaint with a-Reynolds' Wrap seal or "nothin' but bare 'lumium wi
th an elbow-grease shine;" this can be a very touchy subject.- BUT since
you asked about a simple one-step method -- =0AMost folks going with the ra
ttle-can self-etching method have used either Kelly's suggestion of Napa #7
220 or Sherwin Williams SW988 found at industrial paint stores, NOT the hom
e SW Paint store.- I believe these two primers are actually very similar,
with the Napa being a different color and a little cheaper per can.=0AI lu
cked out one time so far and got a case (12 cans) of SW988 from an unsuspec
ting salesman, from whom I requested a bulk discount and got them for aroun
d $5 a can, as opposed to 9-12.=0AScuff with Scotchbrite pad, clean with ac
etone or denatured alcohol (these are "safer" for your skin than MEK), allo
w it to flash off and then spray.- Your application doesn't even have to
be perfectly smooth.- Remember, you're priming, not painting.- This way
you know you're not obsessed with perfect primer coats, but you'll get bet
ter and more efficient as you go, and your jobs will look better by default
.=0ARob Wright=0A#392=0AStruggling through window glue-in=0A=0A=0A=0A-----
Original Message ----=0AFrom: Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com>=0ATo: rv10
-list(at)matronics.com=0ASent: Monday, July 7, 2008 7:06:01 PM=0ASubject: Re:
cMullen" =0A=0ANAPA #7220 Self Etching Primer (listed at
NAPA in their=0AMartin Senour catalog).=0AIf rattle can primer satisfies y
ou. Not as robust as the 2 part=0Aepoxies. Depends on exposure in your area
and how long you intend to=0Aworry about the condition of the plane. I'll
be very lucky if I get to=0Afly mine 20 years.=0A=0AOn Mon, Jul 7, 2008 at
3:46 PM, John Cumins wrote:=0A> I am looking to find a v
ery easy to spray and manage primer.- I do not want=0A> to acid etch and
Aldine then prime.- So I am looking for a simple primer=0A> that I can sp
ray right on to a scuffed part with reasonable protection.- I=0A> am in n
orthern California so no real wet environment at all.- Plus I have a=0A>
have to park it in.=0A>=0A>=0A>=0A> What would you builders recommend.=0A>
=0A>=0A>=0A> Thanks=0A>=0A>=0A>=0A> John=0A>=0A>=0A>=0A> 40864=0A>=0A>=0A>
- - - - - - - - - - - - - -Matt Dralle, List Admi
======0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Easiest way to remove blue plastic from sheet aluminum |
John;
Unless you plan to keep the plane all aluminum (aka not paint) I would
recommend not wasting your time with trying to solder off the plastic. I
did this for my empennage and part of the wings than finally realized
that just taking off the plastic and working on it (I will paint
eventually) looked better over the last year than the scratches I
created with the soldering iron. If you do want to remove the strips of
plastic over the rivets, use a smoothed soldering iron and using a yard
stick; go down the line you want and peel off the plastic, careful you
don't scratch the alclad while do so however.
Another topic I should raise... if you're going to prime no need to
worry about protecting the aluminum since it will all get covered
anyway.
I now peel off the plastic, deburr and dimple and (try to) forget about
all those happy faces and scratches, it was losing battle for me.
Pascal
From: John Cumins
Sent: Monday, July 07, 2008 3:41 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Easiest way to remove blue plastic from sheet
aluminum
Well
Call me a rookie. I want to remove strips of the blue plastic over the
rivet rows to I can still protect most of the metal while I work on it
and still set rivets.
What have most of you builders done to do this.
Thanks
John
40864 Emp heaven
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net> |
| Subject: | Re: primer segestions |
Being your in California forget Sher Win DTM wash primer, it was a
great product for me but banned in this state. I hear from my rep that
there is a great 1 part acrylic but I haven't tested it yet.
http://www.sherwin-williams.com/pdf/products/pro_industrial_0voc_acrylic.
pdf
From: John Cumins
Sent: Monday, July 07, 2008 3:46 PM
Subject: RV10-List: primer segestions
I am looking to find a very easy to spray and manage primer. I do not
want to acid etch and Aldine then prime. So I am looking for a simple
primer that I can spray right on to a scuffed part with reasonable
protection. I am in northern California so no real wet environment at
all. Plus I have a have to park it in.
What would you builders recommend.
Thanks
John
40864
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: primer segestions |
| From: | Dj Merrill <deej(at)deej.net> |
John Cumins wrote:
> I am looking to find a very easy to spray and manage primer. I do not
> want to acid etch and Aldine then prime. So I am looking for a simple
> primer that I can spray right on to a scuffed part with reasonable
> protection.
Sherwin Williams 988 self etching primer in a spray can:
<http://www.sherwin-automotive.com/products/show_product.cfm?product=7565>
-Dj
--
Dj Merrill
Sportsman 2+2 Builder #7118
http://deej.net/sportsman/
"Many things that are unexplainable happen during the construction of an
airplane." --Dave Prizio, 30 Aug 2005
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Grimstad" <Bldgrv10450(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: primer segestions |
John
I have had great results with SEM primer. I studied primer a bunch until
I landed on Randy Lervold's site and took his advice:
http://www.romeolima.com/RV3works/Airframe/airframe.html#Primer Randy is
our EAA Chapter 105 president. I use the spray cans with a clip on spray
handle for convenience. Cost is a bit more then quarts but, easy
clean-up and pro finish. I do not scuff with scotchbright choosing
instead to preserve that layer of added factory protection, I just wipe
my parts with lacquer thinner and shoot them. Last thing, I prime each
part before assembly adding the layer of protection where is is needed
most in the future.
I know there are at least 20 guys that are reading this and thinking
wrong, wrong, wrong.
Best Wishes, good priming,
Paul Grimstad
RV10 450 rudder pedals
----- Original Message -----
From: John Cumins
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Monday, July 07, 2008 3:46 PM
Subject: RV10-List: primer segestions
I am looking to find a very easy to spray and manage primer. I do not
want to acid etch and Aldine then prime. So I am looking for a simple
primer that I can spray right on to a scuffed part with reasonable
protection. I am in northern California so no real wet environment at
all. Plus I have a have to park it in.
What would you builders recommend.
Thanks
John
40864
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Sked <ricksked(at)embarqmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: primer segestions |
Sherwin Williams 988 Self etching primer, buy two cases, spray cans,...give
it a few days to heal....all but my tailcone was done with it..works great
...first primer war in a year, shot fired in anger!!!! DUCK!!!!
Rick Sked...
40185...is it really this close to being flyable???=C2-
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Cumins" <jcumins(at)jcis.net>
Sent: Monday, July 7, 2008 3:46:00 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: RV10-List: primer segestions
I am looking to find a very easy to spray and manage primer.=C2- I do not
want to acid etch and Aldine then prime.=C2- So I am looking for a simpl
e primer that I can spray right on to a scuffed part with reasonable protec
tion.=C2- I am in northern California so no real wet environment at all.
=C2- Plus I have a have to park it in.
What would you builders recommend.
Thanks
John
40864
====
=======================
==
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net> |
| Subject: | Re: primer suggestions |
well I am one that says right on! That is what I did and the primer has
held well. I did use the 988 and funny that the self etch actually
doesn't do well with alclad and comes off pretty easily. Wash primer no
problemo as our governor would say!
Pascal
From: Paul Grimstad
Sent: Monday, July 07, 2008 5:33 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: primer segestions
John
I have had great results with SEM primer. I studied primer a bunch until
I landed on Randy Lervold's site and took his advice:
http://www.romeolima.com/RV3works/Airframe/airframe.html#Primer Randy is
our EAA Chapter 105 president. I use the spray cans with a clip on spray
handle for convenience. Cost is a bit more then quarts but, easy
clean-up and pro finish. I do not scuff with scotchbright choosing
instead to preserve that layer of added factory protection, I just wipe
my parts with lacquer thinner and shoot them. Last thing, I prime each
part before assembly adding the layer of protection where is is needed
most in the future.
I know there are at least 20 guys that are reading this and thinking
wrong, wrong, wrong.
Best Wishes, good priming,
Paul Grimstad
RV10 450 rudder pedals
----- Original Message -----
From: John Cumins
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Monday, July 07, 2008 3:46 PM
Subject: RV10-List: primer segestions
I am looking to find a very easy to spray and manage primer. I do not
want to acid etch and Aldine then prime. So I am looking for a simple
primer that I can spray right on to a scuffed part with reasonable
protection. I am in northern California so no real wet environment at
all. Plus I have a have to park it in.
What would you builders recommend.
Thanks
John
40864
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic
s.com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)cox.net> |
On my 8A I insert the side cowl pins from the cockpit. This eliminates the
pin retainer at the front of the cowl. I use 1/4" aluminum tube as a pin
conduit aft of the firewall to the second bulkhead. The conduit is attached
to the second bulkhead using standard AN fittings. The pins have a locking
device to the second bulkhead so that they do not vibrate out. I plan on
doing the same in the 10.
Carl Froehlich
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of William Curtis
Sent: Monday, July 07, 2008 3:50 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Cowl pins
Here are some additional ideas I saw at OSH last year. I need to get a
picture of an RV with the Van's ""tabbed" pin.
http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/HingePin/index.html
William
http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/
-------- Original Message --------
> X-Rcpt-To:
>
> I used the tabbed ones from Vans.
>
>
>
> Rene' Felker
>
> RV-10 N423CF Flying
>
> 801-721-6080
>
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> Dawson-Townsend,Timothy
> Sent: Monday, July 07, 2008 8:13 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Cowl pins
>
>
>
> Are folks using "stock" side cowl pins, or the "tabbed" ones that Van's
has
> ?
>
>
>
> Tim Dawson-Townsend
>
> 40025, still . . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Marlow <sam(at)fr8dog.net> |
I used the tabbed pins, looks neat.
Dawson-Townsend,Timothy wrote:
>
> Are folks using stock side cowl pins, or the tabbed ones that
> Vans has ?
>
> Tim Dawson-Townsend
>
> 40025, still . . .
>
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Ackerman <johnag5b(at)cableone.net> |
Can somebody tell me what if anything the function of the nut on the
nosewheel valve stem is? and how to install it if it is needed?
Step 7 page 46-3 says to remove the nut and _washers_. There were no
washers.
The stem is threaded on the outer part only it takes about 4 each #5
washers to allow the nut to tighten at all, otherwise it just screws
off the threaded area.
The nut is just a plain nut; it has no locking feature at all, and
would have to be double-nutted to stay put.
I'm using the Matco 511.25 and Van's-supplied tire and tube.
Puzzled
John Ackerman 40458
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Easiest way to remove blue plastic from sheet aluminum |
| From: | "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> |
I started out using a wood burner and a yardstick. Now, I pull the stuff off as
fast as I can. The older stuff is harder to remove but a heat gun helps.
Sometimes I leave it on one side if it's going to slide around a lot, such as a
drill press table, but it doesn't stay on long.
John
--------
#40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=191750#191750
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> |
John,
I just did this part recently and had the same reaction but once the tube is
in and inflated the stem is very solid. I think there is probably a better way
but the plans method seems to work fine.
Michael
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Ackerman
Sent: Monday, July 07, 2008 10:02 PM
Subject: RV10-List: valve stem
Can somebody tell me what if anything the function of the nut on the
nosewheel valve stem is? and how to install it if it is needed?
Step 7 page 46-3 says to remove the nut and _washers_. There were no
washers.
The stem is threaded on the outer part only- it takes about 4 each #5
washers to allow the nut to tighten at all, otherwise it just screws
off the threaded area.
The nut is just a plain nut; it has no locking feature at all, and
would have to be double-nutted to stay put.
I'm using the Matco 511.25 and Van's-supplied tire and tube.
Puzzled
John Ackerman 40458
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "rsipp" <rsipp(at)earthlink.net> |
Perhaps the nut on the valve stem is used to lock the valve stem cover by
tightening the two together.
Just a guess on my part.
Dick Sipp
N110DV 40065 flying (in the paint shop) still
----- Original Message -----
From: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net>
Sent: Tuesday, July 08, 2008 10:29 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: valve stem
>
>
> John,
>
> I just did this part recently and had the same reaction but once the
> tube is in and inflated the stem is very solid. I think there is probably
> a better way but the plans method seems to work fine.
>
> Michael
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Ackerman
> Sent: Monday, July 07, 2008 10:02 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: valve stem
>
>
> Can somebody tell me what if anything the function of the nut on the
> nosewheel valve stem is? and how to install it if it is needed?
> Step 7 page 46-3 says to remove the nut and _washers_. There were no
> washers.
> The stem is threaded on the outer part only- it takes about 4 each #5
> washers to allow the nut to tighten at all, otherwise it just screws
> off the threaded area.
> The nut is just a plain nut; it has no locking feature at all, and
> would have to be double-nutted to stay put.
> I'm using the Matco 511.25 and Van's-supplied tire and tube.
> Puzzled
> John Ackerman 40458
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Homebrew O2 System |
| From: | "Perry, Phil" <Phil.Perry(at)netapp.com> |
I live around 32' MSL and we're getting ready to head to the mountains
in a few weeks. Needless to say, my body has become very acclimated to
high levels of oxygen.
This past weekend I spent 1.5 hrs at 10,000ft and I felt like I had been
hit in the forehead with a baseball bat. I just can't stay at 10K for
too long, by body won't allow it.
Armed with that knowledge, I'm looking at getting supplemental oxygen
for the trip. Have any of you built your own O2 system?
I've been trying to come up with a design that will work, but I need to
make sure the flow rates are correct.
If you've built one, how'd you do it?
Phil
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> |
| Subject: | Homebrew O2 System |
Hmm, short of something goofy with a scuba tank I can't think of anything t
hat wouldn't be more complicated or expensive than a portable system. I wo
uld give some serious consideration to something from Aerox, Skyox, or some
one similar.
http://www.aerox.com/portable.html
http://www.skyox.com/
Michael
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of Perry, Phil
Sent: Tuesday, July 08, 2008 12:28 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Homebrew O2 System
I live around 32' MSL and we're getting ready to head to the mountains in a
few weeks. Needless to say, my body has become very acclimated to high le
vels of oxygen.
This past weekend I spent 1.5 hrs at 10,000ft and I felt like I had been hi
t in the forehead with a baseball bat. I just can't stay at 10K for too lo
ng, by body won't allow it.
Armed with that knowledge, I'm looking at getting supplemental oxygen for t
he trip. Have any of you built your own O2 system?
I've been trying to come up with a design that will work, but I need to mak
e sure the flow rates are correct.
If you've built one, how'd you do it?
Phil
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com> |
| Subject: | Homebrew O2 System |
Flying out of Utah I have used a portable system for years. My wife does
not fly well above 10K. When I built my 10 I put in the Mountain High
EDS-4ip system. A little pricy but well worth it. I flew down to Vegas
last week, 12.5 and 13.5, and the system works great. The pulse demand
stuff is worth its weight in gold....there is no comparison between the
constant flow portable system and the pulse demand.
http://www.mhoxygen.com
I know that was not exactly your question, but thought I would do a short
pilot report...
By the way TAS at altitude, WOT, 2480..161 knots...
Rene' Felker
RV-10 N423CF Flying
801-721-6080
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Perry, Phil
Sent: Tuesday, July 08, 2008 11:28 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Homebrew O2 System
I live around 32' MSL and we're getting ready to head to the mountains in a
few weeks. Needless to say, my body has become very acclimated to high
levels of oxygen.
This past weekend I spent 1.5 hrs at 10,000ft and I felt like I had been hit
in the forehead with a baseball bat. I just can't stay at 10K for too long,
by body won't allow it.
Armed with that knowledge, I'm looking at getting supplemental oxygen for
the trip. Have any of you built your own O2 system?
I've been trying to come up with a design that will work, but I need to make
sure the flow rates are correct.
If you've built one, how'd you do it?
Phil
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Homebrew O2 System |
| From: | "Perry, Phil" <Phil.Perry(at)netapp.com> |
I've been looking at those too. I plan on putting a system into the -10
as it's finished. Right now I'm flying rentals and working to finish
the -10. So I need to come up with a portable solution without spending
a whole lot of money doing it. If I'm spending money on an O2 system, I
want to make sure it an permanent system for the RV-10.
On the simple home brew side, I was thinking along the lines of using a
Benzomatic disposable bottle.
http://images.orgill.com/200x200/7258841.JPG
I've got a system in my boat that allows me to put 99.5% pure oxygen
into my live well. Getting oxygen is as simple as going to Home Depot.
I get ~24hrs out of each bottle, though the run-time would be
significantly less if I was using it in the air. I've got all the
hardware to connect to the bottle, I just don't have a flow
indicator/regulator to put inline.
The attractive part is that you can dispose of your bottle once you're
at the destination. If you run out on your road trip, you just have to
stop by Lowes or Home Depot to pickup another bottle.
I know it's not the perfect system. But at 10,000 feet in a rented
airplane, it could be a very convenient solution for the once-a-year
long cross county. We're not talking about unreasonably high altitudes
and this is just a simple way to get some supplemental oxygen for a very
reasonable price tag.
Phil
________________________________
From: RV Builder (Michael Sausen) [mailto:rvbuilder(at)sausen.net]
Sent: Tuesday, July 08, 2008 1:12 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Homebrew O2 System
Hmm, short of something goofy with a scuba tank I can't think of
anything that wouldn't be more complicated or expensive than a portable
system. I would give some serious consideration to something from
Aerox, Skyox, or someone similar.
http://www.aerox.com/portable.html
http://www.skyox.com/
Michael
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Perry, Phil
Sent: Tuesday, July 08, 2008 12:28 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Homebrew O2 System
I live around 32' MSL and we're getting ready to head to the mountains
in a few weeks. Needless to say, my body has become very acclimated to
high levels of oxygen.
This past weekend I spent 1.5 hrs at 10,000ft and I felt like I had been
hit in the forehead with a baseball bat. I just can't stay at 10K for
too long, by body won't allow it.
Armed with that knowledge, I'm looking at getting supplemental oxygen
for the trip. Have any of you built your own O2 system?
I've been trying to come up with a design that will work, but I need to
make sure the flow rates are correct.
If you've built one, how'd you do it?
Phil
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
http://forums.matronics.com
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Roger Standley" <taildragon(at)msn.com> |
Anyone have a picture of the "tabbed" one from Van's completely
installed?
----- Original Message -----
From: Dawson-Townsend,Timothy<mailto:tdawson-townsend(at)aurora.aero>
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Monday, July 07, 2008 7:12 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Cowl pins
Are folks using "stock" side cowl pins, or the "tabbed" ones that
Van's has ?
Tim Dawson-Townsend
40025, still . . .
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
igator?RV10-List>
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
on>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris and Susie McGough" <VHMUM(at)bigpond.com> |
Tabbed ones and they work great.
Chris
----- Original Message -----
From: Roger Standley
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, July 09, 2008 9:19 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Cowl pins
Anyone have a picture of the "tabbed" one from Van's completely
installed?
----- Original Message -----
From: Dawson-Townsend,Timothy
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Monday, July 07, 2008 7:12 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Cowl pins
Are folks using "stock" side cowl pins, or the "tabbed" ones that
Van's has ?
Tim Dawson-Townsend
40025, still . . .
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic
s.com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
I recently became aware of what appears to be a developing and
potentially significant problem. Slick (Unison industries) has issued 2
service bulletins for their Mags and LASAR ignitions. depending upon
serial number applicability, they require recurrent inspections @ 5
hours of ops and then at 15-20 hour intervals. There has been some
chatter on VAF about this, however the problem seems to be bigger
than reported, with several magnetos failing at relatively short
time in service durations. I recently heard of an RV-10 experiencing a
mag failure @ 50 hours . With nearly 150 RV-10's flying I'm curious as
to the extent this problem has been seen in the community. What are
people experiencing/hearing?
Deems Davis # 406
'Its all done....Its just not put together'
http://deemsrv10.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chuck Henry" <cchenry01(at)hotmail.com> |
I have attached copies of the two service bulletins from Slick for review.
Chuck Henry
#40806
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
Sent: Tuesday, July 08, 2008 10:51 PM
Subject: RV10-List: SLICK MAGs
I recently became aware of what appears to be a developing and
potentially significant problem. Slick (Unison industries) has issued 2
service bulletins for their Mags and LASAR ignitions. depending upon
serial number applicability, they require recurrent inspections @ 5
hours of ops and then at 15-20 hour intervals. There has been some
chatter on VAF about this, however the problem seems to be bigger
than reported, with several magnetos failing at relatively short
time in service durations. I recently heard of an RV-10 experiencing a
mag failure @ 50 hours . With nearly 150 RV-10's flying I'm curious as
to the extent this problem has been seen in the community. What are
people experiencing/hearing?
Deems Davis # 406
'Its all done....Its just not put together'
http://deemsrv10.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | GADAHRS mounting angle? |
| From: | "Chris Johnston" <CJohnston(at)popsound.com> |
Hey all -
I'm mounting my Pinpoint GADAHRS and the instructions say that you need
to mount the unit with the pitot/static side perpendicular or parallel
to the centerline of the aircraft, which is easy enough. What I'm
wondering about is if the unit needs to be mounted so that it's level
with the aircraft in flight or otherwise. No mention of that in the
install manual, but if i'm going to set the angle of the unit, the time
is now. Anyone got any info?
thanks in advance for any help!
cj
#40410
slowly being driven bananas by building what resembles an airplane
www.perfectlygoodairplane.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Marlow <sam(at)fr8dog.net> |
The cap failed on my Bendix mag @ 50 hours, could be a product wide problem.
Deems Davis wrote:
>
> I recently became aware of what appears to be a developing and
> potentially significant problem. Slick (Unison industries) has issued
> 2 service bulletins for their Mags and LASAR ignitions. depending upon
> serial number applicability, they require recurrent inspections @ 5
> hours of ops and then at 15-20 hour intervals. There has been some
> chatter on VAF about this, however the problem seems to be bigger
> than reported, with several magnetos failing at relatively short
> time in service durations. I recently heard of an RV-10 experiencing
> a mag failure @ 50 hours . With nearly 150 RV-10's flying I'm curious
> as to the extent this problem has been seen in the community. What
> are people experiencing/hearing?
>
> Deems Davis # 406
> 'Its all done....Its just not put together'
> http://deemsrv10.com/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wayne Edgerton" <wayne.e(at)grandecom.net> |
Thought I would chime in on the Slick mag issue since I'm the recipient
of one of their failures. On June 21st I left TX starting on a flying
trip up to and through Alaska that ended this last Sunday July 6th back
in TX. When I was in Anchorage getting ready to head to Ketchican I had
my right mag fail. I don't mean run rough it completely drop off the
earth and went to mag heaven. I don't know the technical term but
basically the lobe on the cam in the mag that lifts the points to allow
them to open was completely worn off, they call it the breaker point
cam. I'm sure all of you already know this but it's Lycoming Service
Bulletin 583 & 584 dated June 3rd.
I have the Lasar system so I had that plus the left mag remaining so if
I had been where there was no repair station I still had some options
left to me. At the time of failure I had about 165 hours on the engine.
I was lucky and found a great shop on the field in Anchorage to work on
my problem, Aero Twin. These guys were probably this best group I've
ever worked with. I was flying with 12 other planes that had to go on
without me and the shop was trying their damndest to get me back in the
air so I could catch up with the group. They even worked through their
lunch hour to get me back in the air. Great bunch of guys.
My first problem was finding a mag, since as all of you know that
electronic ignition isn't widely used and available for general
aviation. So the shop manager was able to talk to Joe at Unison and he
over nighted me a new mag. The mag that he sent me is under their same
service bulletin as the one that was being replace, since they really
don't have a know fix yet, that I'm aware of. So I've just traded a bad
problem for a known problem. Sue at Aero Sport told me that probably all
Slick mags from 2004 on are affected. Isn't this amazing, they've been
making these parts forever and they find someone who will make them for
$3 less and we end up with their mess because of this.
My second problem came when the shop didn't have the Lasar timing tool.
I called Unison and he didn't have any available to send me with the mag
and I then called Aero Sport Power, Sue, who I had been communicating
with on this, and she had one but they had a Canadian holiday this next
day and couldn't get it to me. I ended up calling my friend Steve Gross
who hangars his RV6 in my hangar, and he overnighted me my timing tool.
I thought this was kind of a funny statement, but maybe not, Joe from
Unison said I should always carry my timing tool with me in the plane.
Boy that's confidence don't you think! Oh well.
Anyway I was able to get back up and running and was able to catch up
with the group in Ketchican, so I guess the saying is all's well that
ends well. I guess for now :>}
If any of you have any interest in seeing some of the Alaskan photos
that we took I created a blog for my grandkids where I made a daily
posting
triptoalaska2008.blogspot.com
Actually with the lack of WIFI at one location and this mag failure I
got behind a little but I'm trying to get it caught back up know. At the
very bottom of the blog is a daily folder of all the photos we took.
There is some pretty interesting country side in Alaska for those of you
who haven't been there.
Wayne Edgerton N602WT
From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net>
Subject: SLICK MAGs
I recently became aware of what appears to be a developing and
potentially significant problem. Slick (Unison industries) has
issued 2
service bulletins for their Mags and LASAR ignitions. depending
upon
serial number applicability, they require recurrent inspections @
5
hours of ops and then at 15-20 hour intervals. There has been
some
chatter on VAF about this, however the problem seems to be
bigger
than reported, with several magnetos failing at relatively
short
time in service durations. I recently heard of an RV-10
experiencing a
mag failure @ 50 hours . With nearly 150 RV-10's flying I'm
curious as
to the extent this problem has been seen in the community. What
are
people experiencing/hearing?
Deems Davis # 406
'Its all done....Its just not put together'
http://deemsrv10.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wayne Edgerton" <wayne.e(at)grandecom.net> |
By the way I forgot to mention that I lost a mag on my first flight, so
this is the second mag that I've lost. Makes a guy feel warm and fuzzy
huh!
Wayne edgerton N602WT
----- Original Message -----
From: Wayne Edgerton
Sent: Wednesday, July 09, 2008 8:10 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: SLICK MAGs
Thought I would chime in on the Slick mag issue since I'm the recipient
of one of their failures. On June 21st I left TX starting on a flying
trip up to and through Alaska that ended this last Sunday July 6th back
in TX. When I was in Anchorage getting ready to head to Ketchican I had
my right mag fail. I don't mean run rough it completely drop off the
earth and went to mag heaven. I don't know the technical term but
basically the lobe on the cam in the mag that lifts the points to allow
them to open was completely worn off, they call it the breaker point
cam. I'm sure all of you already know this but it's Lycoming Service
Bulletin 583 & 584 dated June 3rd.
I have the Lasar system so I had that plus the left mag remaining so if
I had been where there was no repair station I still had some options
left to me. At the time of failure I had about 165 hours on the engine.
I was lucky and found a great shop on the field in Anchorage to work on
my problem, Aero Twin. These guys were probably this best group I've
ever worked with. I was flying with 12 other planes that had to go on
without me and the shop was trying their damndest to get me back in the
air so I could catch up with the group. They even worked through their
lunch hour to get me back in the air. Great bunch of guys.
My first problem was finding a mag, since as all of you know that
electronic ignition isn't widely used and available for general
aviation. So the shop manager was able to talk to Joe at Unison and he
over nighted me a new mag. The mag that he sent me is under their same
service bulletin as the one that was being replace, since they really
don't have a know fix yet, that I'm aware of. So I've just traded a bad
problem for a known problem. Sue at Aero Sport told me that probably all
Slick mags from 2004 on are affected. Isn't this amazing, they've been
making these parts forever and they find someone who will make them for
$3 less and we end up with their mess because of this.
My second problem came when the shop didn't have the Lasar timing tool.
I called Unison and he didn't have any available to send me with the mag
and I then called Aero Sport Power, Sue, who I had been communicating
with on this, and she had one but they had a Canadian holiday this next
day and couldn't get it to me. I ended up calling my friend Steve Gross
who hangars his RV6 in my hangar, and he overnighted me my timing tool.
I thought this was kind of a funny statement, but maybe not, Joe from
Unison said I should always carry my timing tool with me in the plane.
Boy that's confidence don't you think! Oh well.
Anyway I was able to get back up and running and was able to catch up
with the group in Ketchican, so I guess the saying is all's well that
ends well. I guess for now :>}
If any of you have any interest in seeing some of the Alaskan photos
that we took I created a blog for my grandkids where I made a daily
posting
triptoalaska2008.blogspot.com
Actually with the lack of WIFI at one location and this mag failure I
got behind a little but I'm trying to get it caught back up know. At the
very bottom of the blog is a daily folder of all the photos we took.
There is some pretty interesting country side in Alaska for those of you
who haven't been there.
Wayne Edgerton N602WT
From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net>
Subject: SLICK MAGs
I recently became aware of what appears to be a developing and
potentially significant problem. Slick (Unison industries) has
issued 2
service bulletins for their Mags and LASAR ignitions. depending
upon
serial number applicability, they require recurrent inspections @
5
hours of ops and then at 15-20 hour intervals. There has been
some
chatter on VAF about this, however the problem seems to be
bigger
than reported, with several magnetos failing at relatively
short
time in service durations. I recently heard of an RV-10
experiencing a
mag failure @ 50 hours . With nearly 150 RV-10's flying I'm
curious as
to the extent this problem has been seen in the community. What
are
people experiencing/hearing?
Deems Davis # 406
'Its all done....Its just not put together'
http://deemsrv10.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kelly McMullen" <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
A Bendix mag is very different than a Slick and generally is very
reliable. Slick has had its ups and downs. Mainly use of forms of
plastic that aren't as heat resistant as needed.
On Tue, Jul 8, 2008 at 9:46 PM, Sam Marlow wrote:
>
> The cap failed on my Bendix mag @ 50 hours, could be a product wide problem.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net> |
| Subject: | Fw: SB list of missing builders |
RV-10 SERVICE BULLETIN
As of June 21, we had shipped service bulletin SB 08-6-01 to every RV-10
builder in our files.
For several customer numbers, we had no current address or owner
information. If you have, or know who has, kit numbers in the
accompanying table, please give us the information.
Customer Builder of Record
40005 G. Nus
40014 R. Conti
40039 B. Schulz
40083 J. James
40114 D. Forrest
40149 I. Jackson
40151 L. Dalbeck
40167 M. Lamon
40179 T. Aytur
40259 D. Allen
40287 A. Clark
40303 S. Stephens
40347 M. Cupitt
40361 R. Lacourse
40436 M. Drury
40755 A. Dee
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kelly McMullen" <apilot2(at)GMAIL.COM> |
Makes one want to specify a Bendix mag or two when buying from one of
our favorite specialty engine shops, eh?
On Wed, Jul 9, 2008 at 7:25 AM, Wayne Edgerton wrote:
> By the way I forgot to mention that I lost a mag on my first flight, so this
> is the second mag that I've lost. Makes a guy feel warm and fuzzy huh!
>
> Wayne edgerton N602WT
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fw: SB list of missing builders |
My apologies.
This was sent by Van's I was forwarding per the RVaviator.
http://doc.vansaircraft.com/RVator/Download_rvator.htm
Pascal
From: pascal
Sent: Wednesday, July 09, 2008 7:45 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Fw: SB list of missing builders
RV-10 SERVICE BULLETIN
As of June 21, we had shipped service bulletin SB 08-6-01 to every RV-10
builder in our files.
For several customer numbers, we had no current address or owner
information. If you have, or know who has, kit numbers in the
accompanying table, please give us the information.
Customer Builder of Record
40005 G. Nus
40014 R. Conti
40039 B. Schulz
40083 J. James
40114 D. Forrest
40149 I. Jackson
40151 L. Dalbeck
40167 M. Lamon
40179 T. Aytur
40259 D. Allen
40287 A. Clark
40303 S. Stephens
40347 M. Cupitt
40361 R. Lacourse
40436 M. Drury
40755 A. Dee
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | FW: Slick L-1363 |
FYI
_____
From: Logie, Joe (Unison, US) [mailto:Joe.Logie(at)unisonindustries.com]
Sent: Wednesday, July 09, 2008 7:56 AM
Subject: Slick L-1363
<>
Joe Logie
Unison
Product Support Engineer - Piston Products
T 904 739 4081 Piston Help Line
F 904 739 4006
C 904 739 4068
D *204 4068
E joe.logie(at)unisonindustries.com
www.unisonindustries.com
7575 Baymeadows Way
Jacksonville, FL 32256 USA
Unison Industries LLC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
I spoke to the tech rep and found that their are two failure modes. The mag
numbers 0409 are manufactured ninth month of 2004 etc. The bonded brushes
introduced in 2006 have a failure mode of hours. The failure mode of 2004
mags are perhaps hundreds of hours. the 2006 mags were introduced to try and
get rid of the failure mode of the 2004 mags. The cases of failures are very
few, mostly ( or all?) 2006 mags. He used the CYA term associated with the
2004 mags. Another interesting fact is that the rated temps for these
appliances is 185F. Oil door should be left open to clear heat from engine
after flight if able. Blast tubes are advisable. He will be at OSH if you
have further questions. He mentioned that as experimentals we were not
required to do these inspections; but I assured him that we like to keep the
fan running as well as the certified crowd.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sean Stephens <sean(at)stephensville.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fw: SB list of missing builders |
Scratch 40303 off the list. I moved recently and have updated contact
info with Vans. Not yet back at it, but itchin' to be.
On Jul 9, 2008, at 12:06 PM, pascal wrote:
> My apologies.
> This was sent by Van's I was forwarding per the RVaviator. http://doc.vansaircraft.com/RVator/Download_rvator.htm
> Pascal
>
>
> From: pascal
> Sent: Wednesday, July 09, 2008 7:45 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Fw: SB list of missing builders
>
> RV-10 SERVICE BULLETIN
> As of June 21, we had shipped service bulletin SB 08-6-01 to every
> RV-10 builder in our files.
>
> For several customer numbers, we had no current address or owner
> information. If you have, or know who has, kit numbers in the
> accompanying table, please give us the information.
>
> Customer Builder of Record
>
> 40005 G. Nus
>
> 40014 R. Conti
>
> 40039 B. Schulz
>
> 40083 J. James
>
> 40114 D. Forrest
>
> 40149 I. Jackson
>
> 40151 L. Dalbeck
>
> 40167 M. Lamon
>
> 40179 T. Aytur
>
> 40259 D. Allen
>
> 40287 A. Clark
>
> 40303 S. Stephens
>
> 40347 M. Cupitt
>
> 40361 R. Lacourse
>
> 40436 M. Drury
>
> 40755 A. Dee
>
>
> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://
> www.matronics.com/c
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
Anyone know why Vans has discontinued the Duckworks HIDs?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Marlow <sam(at)fr8dog.net> |
That's what I thought to, until I read this last post, describing how
the points failed. It described my failure exactly.
Kelly McMullen wrote:
>
> A Bendix mag is very different than a Slick and generally is very
> reliable. Slick has had its ups and downs. Mainly use of forms of
> plastic that aren't as heat resistant as needed.
>
> On Tue, Jul 8, 2008 at 9:46 PM, Sam Marlow wrote:
>
>>
>> The cap failed on my Bendix mag @ 50 hours, could be a product wide problem.
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | GenGrumpy(at)aol.com |
Guys:
As a reminder, the corrected copy of the SB contains the applicable serial
numbers that are affected.
grumpy
N184JM
In a message dated 7/9/2008 6:36:35 A.M. Central Daylight Time,
Tim(at)MyRV10.com writes:
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson
Yeah, and lucky me, after seeing your post I went back digging
for the SB's and saw the 2nd one, which DOES incorporate my
mag. The nice thing is, I have over 250 hours, which puts
me at a less frequent inspection timing.....but it still doesn't
give me lots of warm fuzzies. The real big thing that DOES
give me warm fuzzies is that I have a Lightspeed unit, so even
if my mag fails, my LSE should be working good....but hopefully
the mag timing isn't so far off if the mag fails that it
makes the engine run bad.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Deems Davis wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Deems Davis
>
> If I read the SB's correctly (that's a bif IF). the 1st one which
> contains the most restrictive and more frequent inspection cycles has a
> narrower serial number range. The implication is that this issue is
> related to more recent production (say within the last couple of years.
> However, the second SB, essentially broadens the serial number range,
> but makes the inspection cycle somewhat less onerous for the earlier
> produced units. I didn't know of Wayne's incident, but that's the 2n'd
> RV-10 with a mag failure that I've heard of with relatively few hours on
> the mag/s
>
> Deems
>
> Tim Olson wrote:
>>
>> I checked my s/n this weekend (didn't do an internal inspection of
>> the mag) and found that mine is before the S/N's listed, so I breathed
>> a huge sigh of relief. But, I just heard of our pal Wayne up in
>> Alaska...y'all know him, and he hasn't had THAT many hours on his
>> plane, but I guess his mag was one affected and he just had it
>> go out up there....sounds like it was just a wreck inside.
>> I don't know what the heck Unison did...would be nice to know the
>> history, but it sure sounds like if you're in that s/n range, it's
>> a disaster waiting to happen....so I'd keep close tabs on it.
>>
>> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
>> do not archive
>>
>>
>> Deems Davis wrote:
>>>
>>> I recently became aware of what appears to be a developing and
>>> potentially significant problem. Slick (Unison industries) has issued
>>> 2 service bulletins for their Mags and LASAR ignitions. depending
>>> upon serial number applicability, they require recurrent inspections
>>> @ 5 hours of ops and then at 15-20 hour intervals. There has been
>>> some chatter on VAF about this, however the problem seems to be
>>> bigger than reported, with several magnetos failing at relatively
>>> short time in service durations. I recently heard of an RV-10
>>> experiencing a mag failure @ 50 hours . With nearly 150 RV-10's
>>> flying I'm curious as to the extent this problem has been seen in the
>>> community. What are people experiencing/hearing?
>>>
>>> Deems Davis # 406
>>> 'Its all done....Its just not put together'
>>> _http://deemsrv10.com/_ (http://deemsrv10.com/)
**************Get the scoop on last night's hottest shows and the live music
scene in your area - Check out TourTracker.com!
(http://www.tourtracker.com?NCID=aolmus00050000000112)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | FW: Slick L-1363 |
| From: | "John Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> |
David, I had it and did not think to post it. Valuable and Timely.
John Cox
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David McNeill
Sent: Wednesday, July 09, 2008 10:05 AM
Subject: RV10-List: FW: Slick L-1363
FYI
________________________________
From: Logie, Joe (Unison, US) [mailto:Joe.Logie(at)unisonindustries.com]
Sent: Wednesday, July 09, 2008 7:56 AM
Subject: Slick L-1363
<>
Joe Logie
Unison
Product Support Engineer - Piston Products
T 904 739 4081 Piston Help Line
F 904 739 4006
C 904 739 4068
D *204 4068
E joe.logie(at)unisonindustries.com
www.unisonindustries.com
7575 Baymeadows Way
Jacksonville, FL 32256 USA
Unison Industries LLC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jay Rowe" <jfrjr(at)roadrunner.com> |
| Subject: | Re: billet door guide fasteners |
Thanks Steve for the info and equipment upgrade. Jay Rowe, 151 North
Shore Lane, Winthrop, ME 04364
----- Original Message -----
From: steve dinieri
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Friday, June 20, 2008 1:20 PM
Subject: RV10-List: billet door guide fasteners
hi all,
another lister who bought some of my door guides brought up a good
point. he was concerned about the attach screws that I use and their
strength, and more importantly the quality ( consistency ). I buy most
hardware from mcmaster carr , and after a little searching found a
stainless fastener of the same size but mil spec and rated at 80k
tensile strength. I'm switching to this screw and am inviting all who
bought door guides to drop me an email with your address and I'll send
out the new hardware. sorry I don't keep personal info after the sale...
Steven DiNieri
iflyrv10.com
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
Checked by AVG.
6/8/2008 5:32 PM
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | GRT AHRS Mounting |
| From: | jason.kreidler(at)regalbeloit.com |
Has anyone mounted the GRT AHRS unit behind the instrument panel, instead
of the 'traditional' location of in the tailcone? Any reason to avoid
mounting the AHRS behind the instrument panel (we have the room)? The
wiring harness that GRT provided is short, if we decide to mount in the
tailcone, we will have to either splice the wires, or install longer
wires. Obviously we want to avoid both splices, and unnecessary wire runs
to the rear.
Thanks, Jason Kreidler
4-Partner Build (Jason Kreidler, Tony Kolar, Kyle Hokel, Wayne Elsner)
Sheboygan Falls, WI
#40617 Finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com> |
| Subject: | GRT AHRS Mounting |
I put mine on a shelf between the sub-panel and the firewall. I do not
think I have any pictures. The shelf attaches to the lower flange of the
sub-panel (which I reinforced) and the fire wall. The entire shelf can be
removed with the AHRS on it. I used the bottom of the shelf to mount other
items also. It has worked out ok so far....~40 flight hours.
Rene' Felker
RV-10 N423CF Flying
801-721-6080
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
jason.kreidler(at)regalbeloit.com
Sent: Thursday, July 10, 2008 6:15 AM
Subject: RV10-List: GRT AHRS Mounting
Has anyone mounted the GRT AHRS unit behind the instrument panel, instead of
the 'traditional' location of in the tailcone? Any reason to avoid mounting
the AHRS behind the instrument panel (we have the room)? The wiring harness
that GRT provided is short, if we decide to mount in the tailcone, we will
have to either splice the wires, or install longer wires. Obviously we want
to avoid both splices, and unnecessary wire runs to the rear.
Thanks, Jason Kreidler
4-Partner Build (Jason Kreidler, Tony Kolar, Kyle Hokel, Wayne Elsner)
Sheboygan Falls, WI
#40617 Finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | GRT AHRS Mounting |
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
Mine is mounted between the firewall and subpanel on the right side of
the right panel rib. It's only the magnetometer that most mount back in
the tailcone.
Bob
N442PM (flying)
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
jason.kreidler(at)regalbeloit.com
Sent: Thursday, July 10, 2008 7:15 AM
Subject: RV10-List: GRT AHRS Mounting
Has anyone mounted the GRT AHRS unit behind the instrument panel,
instead of the 'traditional' location of in the tailcone? Any reason to
avoid mounting the AHRS behind the instrument panel (we have the room)?
The wiring harness that GRT provided is short, if we decide to mount in
the tailcone, we will have to either splice the wires, or install longer
wires. Obviously we want to avoid both splices, and unnecessary wire
runs to the rear.
Thanks, Jason Kreidler
4-Partner Build (Jason Kreidler, Tony Kolar, Kyle Hokel, Wayne Elsner)
Sheboygan Falls, WI
#40617 Finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "bruce breckenridge" <bbreckenridge(at)gmail.com> |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robin Marks" <robin1(at)mrmoisture.com> |
I emailed BPE this morning regarding the joy of having TWO brand
spanking new mags that fall under the SB. Rhonda did a little research
and found a solution that gets around the SB / future inspections. She
OK'd me to post this to the list:
Here is the pricing from the local accessory shop in Tulsa, Quality
Aircraft Accessories. Replace the carbon brush and cam, including labor
for any Slick mag at or around 100 hours for $75/mag. This would be
Aero-Accessory replacement parts, so they would not be affected by the
SB after the repair.
Justin Hicks at Quality can be reached directly at (918) 835-6948 for
assistance.
I am not sure what it takes to do this yourself. The SB makes the
replacement seem pretty simple.
Robin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "McGANN, Ron" <ron.mcgann(at)baesystems.com> |
I expect any new engine or rebuilt engine with new mags will be affected
by the SB. I bought my engine from Vans mid '07 and I too have dud
mags. I contacted Unison to see if I could have them replaced under
warranty - mine are brand new never run. The simple issue is that they
have NO solution and have nothing better to replace them with. Given
our deeeep south location, there are not many options with alternate
brush/cam suppliers, so I have no choice other than inspections every
15-20 hrs until 50hrs per the SB. I just hope the mags are not
difficult to remove - I am having nightmares about dropping a support
bracket or nut into the engine accessory case already.
cheers,
Ron
-187, Tailcone SB done, back to finishing.
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robin Marks
Sent: Friday, 11 July 2008 9:32 AM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: SLICK MAGs
I emailed BPE this morning regarding the joy of having TWO brand
spanking new mags that fall under the SB. Rhonda did a little research
and found a solution that gets around the SB / future inspections. She
OK'd me to post this to the list:
Here is the pricing from the local accessory shop in Tulsa,
Quality Aircraft Accessories. Replace the carbon brush and cam,
including labor for any Slick mag at or around 100 hours for $75/mag.
This would be Aero-Accessory replacement parts, so they would not be
affected by the SB after the repair.
Justin Hicks at Quality can be reached directly at (918)
835-6948 for assistance.
I am not sure what it takes to do this yourself. The SB makes
the replacement seem pretty simple.
Robin
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your computer."
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Fuel Bracket Orientation of Holes |
| From: | "nukeflyboy" <flymoore(at)charter.net> |
Here is something wierd. I have a QB fuselage and am installing fuel lines.
The plans show the Van's fuel valve oriented about 45 degrees to the left (looking
forward) relative to the mounting holes on the valve. Two of the ports then
angle aft, left and right, for connecting to the wing tanks.
However, the mouning holes on the F-1048C valve mounting bracket are about 90 degrees
different than the plans. They must have been factory pre-drilled that
way. Instead of being on the left side of the bracket (again looking forward)
they are on the right side. The part is asymetrical so it is not installed
wrong.
With this orientation I can still get 2 ports oriented aft, but on the other side
of the valve. It should work OK that way, but it just seems too wierd.
Have any of you seen this?
--------
Dave
RV-6 flying
RV-10 QB building
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=192201#192201
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Marcus Cooper" <coop85(at)cableone.net> |
| Subject: | Fuel Bracket Orientation of Holes |
Dave,
I just had a look at a picture of my fuel valve. You're right, your
mount appears to have been drilled 180 out. I have the mount holes forward
and left, yours was probably accidently drilled upside down. You might be
able to just accept it as you said, but if it makes more sense to position
the valve as planned (the biggest concern would be having the output port
facing forward) then I'd drill new holes.
Another option would be to opt for the Andair valve now if you think you
might be so inclined at some point. I just upgraded my system and it would
have been a lot easier at your stage rather than after it's flying.
Marcus
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of nukeflyboy
Sent: Thursday, July 10, 2008 8:04 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Fuel Bracket Orientation of Holes
Here is something wierd. I have a QB fuselage and am installing fuel
lines. The plans show the Van's fuel valve oriented about 45 degrees to the
left (looking forward) relative to the mounting holes on the valve. Two of
the ports then angle aft, left and right, for connecting to the wing tanks.
However, the mouning holes on the F-1048C valve mounting bracket are about
90 degrees different than the plans. They must have been factory
pre-drilled that way. Instead of being on the left side of the bracket
(again looking forward) they are on the right side. The part is asymetrical
so it is not installed wrong.
With this orientation I can still get 2 ports oriented aft, but on the other
side of the valve. It should work OK that way, but it just seems too wierd.
Have any of you seen this?
--------
Dave
RV-6 flying
RV-10 QB building
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=192201#192201
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Leikam" <daveleikam(at)wi.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Bracket Orientation of Holes |
Yes. I just installed the valve by looking at the ports and mounting so the
valve supplies fuel from the correct tank when the valve selector is in the
corresponding position. I purchased a red anodized selector replacement
from Van's and the indicator disc. The valve mounts fine, but I also noted
the discrepancy with the plans.
Dave Leikam
#40496 N89DA (Reserved)
Muskego, WI
----- Original Message -----
From: "nukeflyboy" <flymoore(at)charter.net>
Sent: Thursday, July 10, 2008 8:03 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Fuel Bracket Orientation of Holes
>
> Here is something wierd. I have a QB fuselage and am installing fuel
> lines. The plans show the Van's fuel valve oriented about 45 degrees to
> the left (looking forward) relative to the mounting holes on the valve.
> Two of the ports then angle aft, left and right, for connecting to the
> wing tanks.
>
> However, the mouning holes on the F-1048C valve mounting bracket are about
> 90 degrees different than the plans. They must have been factory
> pre-drilled that way. Instead of being on the left side of the bracket
> (again looking forward) they are on the right side. The part is
> asymetrical so it is not installed wrong.
>
> With this orientation I can still get 2 ports oriented aft, but on the
> other side of the valve. It should work OK that way, but it just seems
> too wierd.
>
> Have any of you seen this?
>
> --------
> Dave
> RV-6 flying
> RV-10 QB building
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=192201#192201
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | OT: Traveling with the Dog and his mutt muffs |
I thought some of you folks who've written me in the
past esp. after our last dog was put down would appreciate
seeing this blurb I threw up that shows the new dog and
his Mutt Muffs.
http://www.myrv10.com/tips/accessories/MuttMuffs/index.html
We've been able to take him on a few flights this year,
and he does great in the plane. Too bad he won't be
at OSH.
--
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Curtis" <wcurtis(at)nerv10.com> |
Just Checked my TMX IO-540 delivered in '07 and it looks like my engine is good.
My serial number is 0604 1519, model 6351 rev C. The affected range is 0610xxxx
thru 0804xxxx.
William
http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/
-------- Original Message --------
> I expect any new engine or rebuilt engine with new mags will be affected
> by the SB. I bought my engine from Vans mid '07 and I too have dud
> mags. I contacted Unison to see if I could have them replaced under
> warranty - mine are brand new never run. The simple issue is that they
> have NO solution and have nothing better to replace them with. Given
> our deeeep south location, there are not many options with alternate
> brush/cam suppliers, so I have no choice other than inspections every
> 15-20 hrs until 50hrs per the SB. I just hope the mags are not
> difficult to remove - I am having nightmares about dropping a support
> bracket or nut into the engine accessory case already.
>
> cheers,
> Ron
> -187, Tailcone SB done, back to finishing.
>
>
> ________________________________
>
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robin Marks
> Sent: Friday, 11 July 2008 9:32 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: SLICK MAGs
>
>
> I emailed BPE this morning regarding the joy of having TWO brand
> spanking new mags that fall under the SB. Rhonda did a little research
> and found a solution that gets around the SB / future inspections. She
> OK'd me to post this to the list:
>
>
> Here is the pricing from the local accessory shop in Tulsa,
> Quality Aircraft Accessories. Replace the carbon brush and cam,
> including labor for any Slick mag at or around 100 hours for $75/mag.
> This would be Aero-Accessory replacement parts, so they would not be
> affected by the SB after the repair.
>
>
>
> Justin Hicks at Quality can be reached directly at (918)
> 835-6948 for assistance.
>
> I am not sure what it takes to do this yourself. The SB makes
> the replacement seem pretty simple.
>
> Robin
>
>
>
>
>
> "Warning:
> The information contained in this email and any attached files is
> confidential to BAE Systems Australia. If you are not the intended
> recipient, any use, disclosure or copying of this email or any
> attachments is expressly prohibited. If you have received this email
> in error, please notify us immediately. VIRUS: Every care has been
> taken to ensure this email and its attachments are virus free,
> however, any loss or damage incurred in using this email is not the
> sender's responsibility. It is your responsibility to ensure virus
> checks are completed before installing any data sent in this email to
> your computer."
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
Not being within the serial number range, avoids the frequent inspection
intervals, but it doesn't necessarily avoid the problem, I know of a
couple of indicents where mags outside of the serial number range have
gone belly up with 50 hours or less. Wayne, I suspect your 1st flight
mag loss was one which had a serial number les than 610? As I understand
the history, Unison knows they have a problem with their mags, and
attempted to fix it with different parts, the new parts (reflected in
the 0610xxxx thru 0804xxxx serial number range, didn't fix the problem,
and apparently made it worse. I read a comment on another list where
someone said they heard (heresay) from Unison that they hoped to have a
fix in Aug ?!?!?)
the beat goes on.
Deems
haggling with the painter
William Curtis wrote:
>
> Just Checked my TMX IO-540 delivered in '07 and it looks like my engine is good.
My serial number is 0604 1519, model 6351 rev C. The affected range is 0610xxxx
thru 0804xxxx.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MauleDriver <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Bracket Orientation of Holes |
If a new fuel valve would help, I'd be glad to ship mine since I used
the Andair. Just contact me directly.
Bill Watson
Marcus Cooper wrote:
>
> Dave,
> I just had a look at a picture of my fuel valve. You're right, your
> mount appears to have been drilled 180 out. I have the mount holes forward
> and left, yours was probably accidently drilled upside down. You might be
> able to just accept it as you said, but if it makes more sense to position
> the valve as planned (the biggest concern would be having the output port
> facing forward) then I'd drill new holes.
>
> Another option would be to opt for the Andair valve now if you think you
> might be so inclined at some point. I just upgraded my system and it would
> have been a lot easier at your stage rather than after it's flying.
>
> Marcus
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of nukeflyboy
> Sent: Thursday, July 10, 2008 8:04 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Fuel Bracket Orientation of Holes
>
>
> Here is something wierd. I have a QB fuselage and am installing fuel
> lines. The plans show the Van's fuel valve oriented about 45 degrees to the
> left (looking forward) relative to the mounting holes on the valve. Two of
> the ports then angle aft, left and right, for connecting to the wing tanks.
>
>
> However, the mouning holes on the F-1048C valve mounting bracket are about
> 90 degrees different than the plans. They must have been factory
> pre-drilled that way. Instead of being on the left side of the bracket
> (again looking forward) they are on the right side. The part is asymetrical
> so it is not installed wrong.
>
> With this orientation I can still get 2 ports oriented aft, but on the other
> side of the valve. It should work OK that way, but it just seems too wierd.
>
> Have any of you seen this?
>
> --------
> Dave
> RV-6 flying
> RV-10 QB building
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=192201#192201
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hilger" <ninepapa(at)bendbroadband.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Bracket Orientation of Holes |
Dave
Here is a picture of Randy DeBauw's fuel vavle installed, it looks just
like the plans.
One question, if you were to remove and reinstal it upside down, would the
hole orientation be correct?
John
----- Original Message -----
From: "MauleDriver" <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Sent: Friday, July 11, 2008 9:44 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fuel Bracket Orientation of Holes
>
> If a new fuel valve would help, I'd be glad to ship mine since I used
> the Andair. Just contact me directly.
>
> Bill Watson
>
> Marcus Cooper wrote:
> >
> > Dave,
> > I just had a look at a picture of my fuel valve. You're right, your
> > mount appears to have been drilled 180 out. I have the mount holes
forward
> > and left, yours was probably accidently drilled upside down. You might
be
> > able to just accept it as you said, but if it makes more sense to
position
> > the valve as planned (the biggest concern would be having the output
port
> > facing forward) then I'd drill new holes.
> >
> > Another option would be to opt for the Andair valve now if you think you
> > might be so inclined at some point. I just upgraded my system and it
would
> > have been a lot easier at your stage rather than after it's flying.
> >
> > Marcus
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of nukeflyboy
> > Sent: Thursday, July 10, 2008 8:04 PM
> > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: RV10-List: Fuel Bracket Orientation of Holes
> >
> >
> > Here is something wierd. I have a QB fuselage and am installing fuel
> > lines. The plans show the Van's fuel valve oriented about 45 degrees to
the
> > left (looking forward) relative to the mounting holes on the valve. Two
of
> > the ports then angle aft, left and right, for connecting to the wing
tanks.
> >
> >
> > However, the mouning holes on the F-1048C valve mounting bracket are
about
> > 90 degrees different than the plans. They must have been factory
> > pre-drilled that way. Instead of being on the left side of the bracket
> > (again looking forward) they are on the right side. The part is
asymetrical
> > so it is not installed wrong.
> >
> > With this orientation I can still get 2 ports oriented aft, but on the
other
> > side of the valve. It should work OK that way, but it just seems too
wierd.
> >
> > Have any of you seen this?
> >
> > --------
> > Dave
> > RV-6 flying
> > RV-10 QB building
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Read this topic online here:
> >
> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=192201#192201
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | OSH RV-10 HQ Camping Last Reminder |
| From: | "bcondrey" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
Last friendly reminder...
Time is getting short - It's only a week until Tim will be going over to stake
out sites and within a couple days of that I'll stake out the remaining sites
and be there for the duration.
If you've been on the fence about camping with us, time is getting short! We need
to have money in hand no later than Thursday 7/17 for your site. I think
just about all of the folks that registered have paid already, but if you haven't
it's probably time to bump that to the top of your "to do" list! The reservation
chart (link below) reflects everybody that we know of that's signed up,
if your name isn't there and you think it should be please contact Tim or I
ASAP so we can straighten it out.
Even if you're not camping with us, feel free to swing by for a cold drink and
some camaraderie. We'll post a map with our location the early the week of 7/21
so you can find us (5-10 minute walk from "Hangar B").
Here's a link to the post with details on how to register, etc:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?t=43892
Frequently asked questions:
http://www.myrv10.com/osh/Camping_FAQ.html
and the current reservation chart:
http://www.myrv10.com/osh/2008_Campsites.html
This is not in any way a money making venture for any of us - we're just trying
to facilitate an area for the RV-10 folks to enjoy the show and maybe a couple
of after hours events.
Bob
RV-10 N442PM (flying)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=192308#192308
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Patrick Thyssen <jump2(at)sbcglobal.net> |
OK here's my take on slick mags. For the past 12 yrs I have basically used them
anytime I can. My way of doing business is 500 hr inspection and at 1000 get
new ones. I have not had any failures. I just ask how much is a night cought
out and out of town repairs worth to you?
Go and ask the fish spotters ,Who flies 10-12 hrs days,what they do. They put
more hrs on a plane then any of us.
My customers have heeded what I preach and seems okay since most fly IFR and
do not need the hassles.
Now you can complain all you want about them but I'll continue to use them for
all applications I can. Heck I have a engine Overhauled and had 1.5 hrs on
the cylinders, I had to get 6 new ones. My fuel system has an AD. My tail sections
had a major service bulletin. My crossbow has had two revisions. All this
and don't have a hr on the aircraft.
I'll be pulling two aircraft down in the next week to look at them and see what's
going on. I had the 500 hr inspectins done 375 hrs ago and they changed
points and whatever,One of the problems is, you reset timing last 100 hr and now
they are off again 2-3 degrees but you can't remember how much they were off
the last time. What do you do?
I know what I'm going to do. I would have to say Normally I have to reset timing
once during the 500 hr, but I check it almost everytime I change oil. It
doesn't take that long to do.
So it doesn't have to be new mags but one that someone put parts in.
I know I rambling but Deems asked for it.
Patrick Thyssen AP/IA ATP
will finish when I do - maybe sept.
Deems Davis wrote:
Not being within the serial number range, avoids the frequent inspection
intervals, but it doesn't necessarily avoid the problem, I know of a
couple of indicents where mags outside of the serial number range have
gone belly up with 50 hours or less. Wayne, I suspect your 1st flight
mag loss was one which had a serial number les than 610? As I understand
the history, Unison knows they have a problem with their mags, and
attempted to fix it with different parts, the new parts (reflected in
the 0610xxxx thru 0804xxxx serial number range, didn't fix the problem,
and apparently made it worse. I read a comment on another list where
someone said they heard (heresay) from Unison that they hoped to have a
fix in Aug ?!?!?)
the beat goes on.
Deems
haggling with the painter
William Curtis wrote:
>
> Just Checked my TMX IO-540 delivered in '07 and it looks like my engine is good.
My serial number is 0604 1519, model 6351 rev C. The affected range is 0610xxxx
thru 0804xxxx.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Leikam" <daveleikam(at)wi.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Bracket Orientation of Holes |
If you think about the position of the ports, it works either way. You
just plug a different port depending on the mount. Don't know why Van
changed the mount from the plans, you just have to scratch your head for a
minute.
Dave Leikam
#40496 N89DA (Reserved)
Muskego, WI
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Hilger" <ninepapa(at)bendbroadband.com>
Sent: Friday, July 11, 2008 2:23 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fuel Bracket Orientation of Holes
> Dav
> Here is a picture of Randy DeBauw's fuel vavle installed, it looks just
> like the plans.
>
> One question, if you were to remove and reinstal it upside down, would the
> hole orientation be correct?
>
> John
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "MauleDriver" <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com>
> To:
> Sent: Friday, July 11, 2008 9:44 AM
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fuel Bracket Orientation of Holes
>
>
>>
>> If a new fuel valve would help, I'd be glad to ship mine since I used
>> the Andair. Just contact me directly.
>>
>> Bill Watson
>>
>> Marcus Cooper wrote:
>> >
>> > Dave,
>> > I just had a look at a picture of my fuel valve. You're right, your
>> > mount appears to have been drilled 180 out. I have the mount holes
> forward
>> > and left, yours was probably accidently drilled upside down. You might
> be
>> > able to just accept it as you said, but if it makes more sense to
> position
>> > the valve as planned (the biggest concern would be having the output
> port
>> > facing forward) then I'd drill new holes.
>> >
>> > Another option would be to opt for the Andair valve now if you think
>> > you
>> > might be so inclined at some point. I just upgraded my system and it
> would
>> > have been a lot easier at your stage rather than after it's flying.
>> >
>> > Marcus
>> >
>> > -----Original Message-----
>> > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>> > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of nukeflyboy
>> > Sent: Thursday, July 10, 2008 8:04 PM
>> > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>> > Subject: RV10-List: Fuel Bracket Orientation of Holes
>> >
>> >
>> > Here is something wierd. I have a QB fuselage and am installing fuel
>> > lines. The plans show the Van's fuel valve oriented about 45 degrees
>> > to
> the
>> > left (looking forward) relative to the mounting holes on the valve.
>> > Two
> of
>> > the ports then angle aft, left and right, for connecting to the wing
> tanks.
>> >
>> >
>> > However, the mouning holes on the F-1048C valve mounting bracket are
> about
>> > 90 degrees different than the plans. They must have been factory
>> > pre-drilled that way. Instead of being on the left side of the bracket
>> > (again looking forward) they are on the right side. The part is
> asymetrical
>> > so it is not installed wrong.
>> >
>> > With this orientation I can still get 2 ports oriented aft, but on the
> other
>> > side of the valve. It should work OK that way, but it just seems too
> wierd.
>> >
>> > Have any of you seen this?
>> >
>> > --------
>> > Dave
>> > RV-6 flying
>> > RV-10 QB building
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > Read this topic online here:
>> >
>> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=192201#192201
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Homebrew O2 System |
| From: | "bryanflood" <bryanflood(at)hotmail.com> |
Hi guys, I use medical O2 tanks filled off a welding bottle. They are dirt cheap
and so are the medical regulators which work great too, the only catch is that
I have to use a conserving canula b/c I'm too cheap to spring for conserver
on the regulator system. I probably have about 150 dollars in two tanks, a regulator,
a tee, a flow meter and two canulas. The only difference on the medical
tanks is they have a different thread and stem, although you can order them
with the threads for the aviation stem if you want to spend more $. The transfill
adapter was just over $100 and I get about 8 bottle fills be for my tank
gets down to 1800 psi on $25 of O2. Each bottle seems to last someplace over 2
hours at 1lpm per person which I use above 12K. The one disadvantage to medical
regulators is that I have to use a conversion chart for the flow rate but it's
really easy. ANother is that refilling on a trip is harder b/c you need to
bring an adapter to fit the filler at an FBO and pay upwards of $40 per tanks
some places, a total rip. The tanks are so cheap to buy and fill you might as
well pick up a few. If you don't already have a welding tank I guess you need
to buy that too.
--------
Rv-9A completed.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=192358#192358
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Bracket Orientation of Holes |
| From: | "nukeflyboy" <flymoore(at)charter.net> |
Thanks for the replys.
Dave - I think you are right. After looking at the photo and the plans carefully,
it seems that it doesn't matter. It will work in either orientation. The
plug just needs to be on the other side (to block the unused port).
Flipping it upside down will get the correct orientation, but the bracket will
sit about an inch lower, so that is ruled out. The Andair valve is really nice,
but I am too cheap.
Bottom line - it will work as found. The only loss is a little more hair from
head scratching.
--------
Dave
RV-6 flying
RV-10 QB building
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=192370#192370
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
I just got a note from the lady who owns the home we stay @ OSH ea year,
giving us a heads up on the mosquito situation. Apparently with all of
the rain this year the bugs are BAD day and night, and she reported
that there have been some local shortages in repellent reported. So a
word to the wise is to come prepared with you own supply , and lots of it!!
Deems Davis # 406
we don't got no stinking mosquitoes, but can I interest you in a scorpion???
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Soundproofing - glue or not? |
| From: | "Lenny Iszak" <lenard(at)rapiddecision.com> |
I'm about to lay down the soundproofing in the fuse. I bought the stuff from SoundEx.
They recommend not to glue it to the skin.
What did you guys use to secure it? Those baggage floor bays are pretty deep and
I'm concerned that if I don't glue the sheets down they'll be tumbling around
in there...
Regards,
Lenny
#40803
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=192416#192416
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Soundproofing - glue or not? |
| From: | "William Curtis" <wcurtis(at)nerv10.com> |
Nope. Just cut it slightly larger so that it holds itself in.
http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/08fuselage/fuselage35c.html
William
http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/
-------- Original Message --------
>
> I'm about to lay down the soundproofing in the fuse. I bought the stuff from
SoundEx. They recommend not to glue it to the skin.
>
> What did you guys use to secure it? Those baggage floor bays are pretty deep
and I'm concerned that if I don't glue the sheets down they'll be tumbling around
in there...
>
>
> Regards,
> Lenny
> #40803
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=192416#192416
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Schmidt <scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Soundproofing - glue or not? |
I glued all mine down with sticky stuff but I also didn't use the stuff from SoundEx.
I used the black closed cell foam from Aircraft Spruce.
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/stickystuff.php
Scott Schmidt
scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com
----- Original Message ----
From: Lenny Iszak <lenard(at)rapiddecision.com>
Sent: Saturday, July 12, 2008 7:28:57 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Soundproofing - glue or not?
I'm about to lay down the soundproofing in the fuse. I bought the stuff from SoundEx.
They recommend not to glue it to the skin.
What did you guys use to secure it? Those baggage floor bays are pretty deep and
I'm concerned that if I don't glue the sheets down they'll be tumbling around
in there...
Regards,
Lenny
#40803
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=192416#192416
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Marlow <sam(at)fr8dog.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Who's Flying in to OSH, and on what days? |
We'll be there the 27th through the 29th.
Sam & Dan
N540MR
Tim Olson wrote:
>
> I'm interested for a couple of reasons in finding out who is
> flying their RV-10 into OSH this year, and what days they
> plan to arrive and depart.
>
> One reason it to give Jeff a heads up for space, and the
> other reason is for a little video/photo project I may
> undertake.
>
> I'm sure the list is curious as well.
>
> Sooooooo, who's going, and when?
>
> I'm flying in either Friday night (preferred) before the show,
> but definitely by Saturday noon, and then I likely will leave
> either Friday or Saturday towards the end of the week.
>
> I'll try to keep a tally so we have it in one email after
> a bunch have reported.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Curtis" <wcurtis(at)nerv10.com> |
>Rob Wright wrote:
>Crack SB complete; 6 hours and a couple of difficult rivets (did not remove top
shelf)!
So I must have done something wrong. I see folks taking A LOT of hours to comply
with the SB.
Assuming you are still constructing and have the tail off, to drill out the 50
or so rivets, match drill the reinforcing plates, and then re-rivet, took me under
3 hours--one hour to drill out rivets and match drill; one half hour to prime
and deburr; and another hour to re-rivet. And that was only because I was
doing other things during that time. Again, this is for those that did NOT
have to remove the tail--what is all the extra time spent on? Doing it by not
removing the top shelf should take even less time--maybe.
http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/05Tailcone/Tailcone90.html
William
http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> |
Hmm, I think someone is a bit over reactive. They are no worse than normal and
the really bad spells are within a week or so of really heavy rains. I've
noticed a significant drop with the drier weather in the last week and keep in
mind I'm only 30 miles away, in a wooded area, on a river. :) Oh ya, no shortages
on bug spray that I've seen or heard of but it never hurts to be prepared.
Make sure you get the real stuff with around 20% DEET and you'll never have
a problem.
Michael
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
Sent: Saturday, July 12, 2008 5:48 PM
Subject: RV10-List: OSH mosquitos
I just got a note from the lady who owns the home we stay @ OSH ea year,
giving us a heads up on the mosquito situation. Apparently with all of
the rain this year the bugs are BAD day and night, and she reported
that there have been some local shortages in repellent reported. So a
word to the wise is to come prepared with you own supply , and lots of it!!
Deems Davis # 406
we don't got no stinking mosquitoes, but can I interest you in a scorpion???
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kelly McMullen" <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: OSH mosquitos |
20%?
In Alaska nothing short of 100% DEET was considered effective. ;-) Of
course it dissolved most nylon and plastic items.
On Sun, Jul 13, 2008 at 4:20 PM, RV Builder (Michael Sausen)
wrote:
>
> Hmm, I think someone is a bit over reactive. They are no worse than normal
and the really bad spells are within a week or so of really heavy rains. I've
noticed a significant drop with the drier weather in the last week and keep in
mind I'm only 30 miles away, in a wooded area, on a river. :) Oh ya, no shortages
on bug spray that I've seen or heard of but it never hurts to be prepared.
Make sure you get the real stuff with around 20% DEET and you'll never have
a problem.
>
> Michael
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
> Sent: Saturday, July 12, 2008 5:48 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: OSH mosquitos
>
>
> I just got a note from the lady who owns the home we stay @ OSH ea year,
> giving us a heads up on the mosquito situation. Apparently with all of
> the rain this year the bugs are BAD day and night, and she reported
> that there have been some local shortages in repellent reported. So a
> word to the wise is to come prepared with you own supply , and lots of it!!
>
>
> Deems Davis # 406
>
> we don't got no stinking mosquitoes, but can I interest you in a scorpion???
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Les Kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
Hi Michael
I am not sure what kind of girly mosquitoes you have where you are, but up
here in Canada where the mosquitoes regularly have transponder codes and
have been known to clean out blood banks, we prefer our DEET in the 95%
variety.
Check this out:
http://www.amazon.com/Woods-Sportsmen-Insect-Repellent-Spray/dp/B0000CBJBD
I spoke to the people I will be staying with today and asked about the
mosquitoes. My friend John said that they were bad this year. If you are
camping especially, I suggest you get the real stuff.
For the newbies, I also strongly suggest good head gear and a sunblock with
a double digit SPF rating - something appropriate for the surface of the
sun. The tarmac at KOSH can cause brutal sunburn.
Hydration is also a big concern. I bring a camel back that I freeze
overnight (you can also fill with ice) that keeps me cool during the day.
Bottled water at KOSH costs 3 times as much as AVGAS so be prepared. Usually
there is a water truck just outside the main gate as well as a couple of
water stations on the grounds where you can get *free* running water to
refill your water bottles.
I would also bring a small bottle of hand sanitizer as the biffies don't
always have hand wash stations nearby.
Cheers
Les Kearney
Preparing for KOSH trip #10
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV Builder
(Michael Sausen)
Sent: July-13-08 5:21 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: OSH mosquitos
Hmm, I think someone is a bit over reactive. They are no worse than
normal and the really bad spells are within a week or so of really heavy
rains. I've noticed a significant drop with the drier weather in the last
week and keep in mind I'm only 30 miles away, in a wooded area, on a river.
:) Oh ya, no shortages on bug spray that I've seen or heard of but it never
hurts to be prepared. Make sure you get the real stuff with around 20% DEET
and you'll never have a problem.
Michael
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
Sent: Saturday, July 12, 2008 5:48 PM
Subject: RV10-List: OSH mosquitos
I just got a note from the lady who owns the home we stay @ OSH ea year,
giving us a heads up on the mosquito situation. Apparently with all of
the rain this year the bugs are BAD day and night, and she reported
that there have been some local shortages in repellent reported. So a
word to the wise is to come prepared with you own supply , and lots of it!!
Deems Davis # 406
we don't got no stinking mosquitoes, but can I interest you in a scorpion???
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Who's Flying in to OSH, and on what days? |
| From: | "Jim & Julie Wade" <jwade2163(at)bellsouth.net> |
Arrive Sunday before the show, leave Wednesday
N369JW
Jim & Julie
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=192616#192616
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Flying to OSH - Read the NOTAM |
For those flying to OSH, here is a good article in today's AvWeb:
http://www.avweb.com/news/pilotlounge/pilots_lounge_128_oskhosh_arrival_198208-1.html
I'll tell you that at first when I read it, I was a little put off
that it made flying in sound so awful. Flying in to OSH can easily
be one of the highlights of a pilots life, so I hate to hear
negativity about it. But, at the same time, there isn't anything
that he said that I can disagree with. Flying into OSH just
requires added diligence in planning, piloting, spotting, and
general awareness. Flying in to a local fly-in can have the
SAME consequences. (I'll throw in a story from this weekend, at
the end of this post) Flying OFTEN can be one of the best
things you do with your money if you want to be safe as a
pilot....you gain things (EXPERIENCE) that no cockpit gadget can
equal in enhancing safety.
So do like they recommend, get current, get comfortable,
practice spot landings, and READ AND CARRY THE NOTAM with you
on your flight in. Even when it gets real busy, there's no
reason that flying in to OSH has to be unsafe...if you
follow procedures and don't expect that all those around
you will be as reliable. This year I will fly in to OSH
probably at least 4-8 times during the show, as for me,
that is one of the best times a pilot can have.
Here is where you can get the 2008 NOTAM:
http://www.airventure.org/2008/flying/2008_notam.pdf
---------------
Now for a story
---------------
This weekend, we had a fly-in at our local airport. I went out
for a few rides with people throughout the day. On one particular
approach, I had announced that I was on a wide left base for
the active. I turned final and announced I was on short final.
I then got a call from a plane that said they were 1/2 mile
final for the same runway. There was nobody in front of me.
That spooks a person. So I asked if the other plane had
the RV in sight....they said "I do, you just passed over top
of us". So I said I would break left and go around. As I turned,
I saw below me, at about 1/2 my altitude (I was about 400'),
one of those small, army green cessnas, against the green
trees and cornfields. He was completely invisible when I was
on base, and had come from a nearby airport and was flying
in for a straight-in approach.
We discussed it later, and I admitted that I could have done
a better job spotting, and flown a closer pattern (there
was nobody else in the pattern and I had just been very near
base when I entered the pattern), but that he also could have
used better judgement than flying low and straight-in, with
a green plane, on the day of the fly-in....a full pattern
would be more safe. Contributing is the fact that he was flying
a high-wing, and I was flying a low-wing.
So nothing happened, in the end, but it does illustrate how
some sloppy flying or poor judgement can be a bad thing,
especially during times of lots of traffic. Nobody is
immune. But OSH is a place where you just can't afford
to take it anything less than serious in our awareness
and preparations.....the same as we should always be doing.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Wright <flywrights(at)yahoo.com> |
Nah, It took me more time to leave the shelf on because I'm better (I think
) at manuevering in small places than drilling out so many rivets without e
longation.=0A:]=0ARob=0A=0A=0A=0A----- Original Message ----=0AFrom: Willia
m Curtis =0ATo: rv10-list(at)matronics.com=0ASent: Sunday,
July 13, 2008 7:19:44 PM=0ASubject: Re: RV10-List: SB work=0A=0A--> RV10-L
ist message posted by: "William Curtis" =0A=0A>Rob Wrig
ht wrote:=0A>Crack SB complete; 6 hours and a couple of difficult rivets (d
id not remove top shelf)!=0A=0ASo I must have done something wrong.- I se
e folks taking A LOT of hours to comply with the SB.- =0A=0AAssuming you
are still constructing and have the tail off, to drill out the 50 or so riv
ets, match drill the reinforcing plates, and then re-rivet, took me under 3
hours--one hour to drill out rivets and match drill; one half hour to prim
e and deburr; and another hour to re-rivet.- And that was only because I
was doing other things during that time.- Again, this is for those that d
id NOT have to remove the tail--what is all the extra time spent on?- Doi
ng it by not removing the top shelf should take even less time--maybe.=0A
=0Ahttp://nerv10.com/wcurtis/05Tailcone/Tailcone90.html=0A=0AWilliam=0Ahttp
===============0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Homebrew O2 System |
| From: | "bryanflood" <bryanflood(at)hotmail.com> |
The medical bottles are not the fancy carbon wound bottles from my experience they
are only the Aluminum bottles but I could be wrong. If you search the internet
for medical supplies you can find them. My buddy and I compared our bottles,
his was an expensive aluminum aviation bottle, mine an aluminum medical bottle.
From what I could tell the weights, rating, and everything but the threads
and stem (plus the stickers) are identical. The carbon bottles are infact lighter
but more expensive. In fact the sizes offered are the same, but the two
industries have different names for the bottle sizes sometimes, probably to try
to create product differentiation where none exists. Again you can order the
medical bottles with special threads for the aviation stems, so honestly I see
no difference. There is no question the aviation bottels are nice and they
do have everthing set-up for aviation, if I had unlimited funds I would go that
route. But I'm on a budget, so I went the medical route and they work great.
The one thing I proabably will buy sometime soon from an aviation house is a
mounting strap, but they are expensive and I have been putting it off.
Bryan
--------
Rv-9A completed.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=192676#192676
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net> |
This is probably common knowledge
http://home.earthlink.net/~gilalex/Rivet/ but when I did this SB I used
this method. I was quite surprised that there wasn't one rivet in the
complete process I messed up.. first for me!!
I actually have a better looking shelf now than I did before starting..
There were 3-4 rivets I looked at and thought there were awful, that are
now much better looking.
Pascal
From: Robert Wright
Sent: Monday, July 14, 2008 9:33 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: SB work
Nah, It took me more time to leave the shelf on because I'm better (I
think) at manuevering in small places than drilling out so many rivets
without elongation.
:]
Rob
----- Original Message ----
From: William Curtis <wcurtis(at)nerv10.com>
Sent: Sunday, July 13, 2008 7:19:44 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: SB work
>Rob Wright wrote:
>Crack SB complete; 6 hours and a couple of difficult rivets (did not
remove top shelf)!
So I must have done something wrong. I see folks taking A LOT of hours
to comply with the SB.
Assuming you are still constructing and have the tail off, to drill out
the 50 or so rivets, match drill the reinforcing plates, and then
re-rivet, took me under 3 hours--one hour to drill out rivets and match
drill; one half hour to prime and deburr; and another hour to re-rivet.
And that was
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Curtis" <wcurtis(at)nerv10.com> |
Yeah, I learned this at an OSH workshop a few years ago but this is a good reference.
I usually skip step 3 however. I just use a #40 bit into the 1/8" rivet
and then use a #40 punch to snap off the head. Usually works real good an
a lot less chance of "buggering' the 1/8" hole.
William
http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/
-------- Original Message --------
>
> This is probably common knowledge http://home.earthlink.net/~gilalex/Rivet/ but when I did this SB I used this method. I was quite surprised that there wasn't one rivet in the complete process I messed up.. first for me!!
> I actually have a better looking shelf now than I did before starting.. There
were 3-4 rivets I looked at and thought there were awful, that are now much better
looking.
> Pascal
>
>
> From: Robert Wright
> Sent: Monday, July 14, 2008 9:33 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: SB work
>
>
> Nah, It took me more time to leave the shelf on because I'm better (I think)
at manuevering in small places than drilling out so many rivets without elongation.
>
>
>
> :]
>
> Rob
>
>
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----
> From: William Curtis <wcurtis(at)nerv10.com>
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Sent: Sunday, July 13, 2008 7:19:44 PM
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: SB work
>
>
> >Rob Wright wrote:
> >Crack SB complete; 6 hours and a couple of difficult rivets (did not remove
top shelf)!
>
> So I must have done something wrong. I see folks taking A LOT of hours to comply
with the SB.
>
> Assuming you are still constructing and have the tail off, to drill out the 50
or so rivets, match drill the reinforcing plates, and then re-rivet, took me
under 3 hours--one hour to drill out rivets and match drill; one half hour to
prime and deburr; and another hour to re-rivet. And that was
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jessen <n212pj(at)gmail.com> |
What tool that fits over the shop head?
John J
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of linn Walters
.... I have the tool that fits over the shop head to center the drill.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
John Jessen wrote:
>
> What tool that fits over the shop head?
>
Good question John!!! My dsyslexic brain in action ..... make that
'manufactured head'!!!
Soory about that. .... It would be a good tool to have, though!!!
Linn
> John J
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of linn Walters
>
> .... I have the tool that fits over the shop head to center the drill.
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RobHickman(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | N402RH First Flight |
S/N: 40204 N402RH was signed off Friday night and flew for the first time
this morning. I have eleven days to fly 39 hours before flying it to Oshkosh.
It has the new Hartzell three blade composite prop and it is remarkably quit
and smooth.
Two Advanced Deck EFIS's, AF-3400MFD, 430W, SL30 , GTX330, 496, MH 4ip
Oxygen System, PM9000, DigiFlight IIVSGV
1610 Lbs, no paint or carpet
I will post some pictures tomorrow.
Rob Hickman
N402RH RV-10 Flying!!
**************Get the scoop on last night's hottest shows and the live music
scene in your area - Check out TourTracker.com!
(http://www.tourtracker.com?NCID=aolmus00050000000112)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | N402RH First Flight |
| From: | "McGANN, Ron" <ron.mcgann(at)baesystems.com> |
Congratulations Rob! Each first flight is my inspiration to push that
little harder to finish!
cheers,
Ron
187 getting into paint!
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
RobHickman(at)aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, 15 July 2008 9:45 AM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: N402RH First Flight
S/N: 40204 N402RH was signed off Friday night and flew for the
first time this morning. I have eleven days to fly 39 hours before
flying it to Oshkosh. It has the new Hartzell three blade composite
prop and it is remarkably quit and smooth.
Two Advanced Deck EFIS's, AF-3400MFD, 430W, SL30 , GTX330, 496,
MH 4ip Oxygen System, PM9000, DigiFlight IIVSGV
1610 Lbs, no paint or carpet
I will post some pictures tomorrow.
Rob Hickman
N402RH RV-10 Flying!!
________________________________
Get the scoop on last night's hottest shows and the live music
scene in your area - Check out TourTracker.com
<http://www.tourtracker.com?NCID=aolmus00050000000112> !
"Warning:
The information contained in this email and any attached files is
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | N402RH First Flight |
| From: | John Jessen <n212pj(at)gmail.com> |
Awesome, Rob! Congratulations. Are you flying it off of your field? I'd
like to drop by and have a look.
John J
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
RobHickman(at)aol.com
Sent: Monday, July 14, 2008 5:15 PM
Subject: RV10-List: N402RH First Flight
S/N: 40204 N402RH was signed off Friday night and flew for the first time
this morning. I have eleven days to fly 39 hours before flying it to
Oshkosh. It has the new Hartzell three blade composite prop and it is
remarkably quit and smooth.
Two Advanced Deck EFIS's, AF-3400MFD, 430W, SL30 , GTX330, 496, MH 4ip
Oxygen System, PM9000, DigiFlight IIVSGV
1610 Lbs, no paint or carpet
I will post some pictures tomorrow.
Rob Hickman
N402RH RV-10 Flying!!
_____
Get the scoop on last night's hottest shows and the live music scene in your
area - Check out TourTracker.com
<http://www.tourtracker.com?NCID=aolmus00050000000112> !
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hilger" <ninepapa(at)bendbroadband.com> |
| Subject: | Re: N402RH First Flight |
Congratulations Rob!
The fly off time sound doable.
As always if I can help in any way, just let me know.
Safe flying.
John
----- Original Message -----
From: RobHickman(at)aol.com
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Monday, July 14, 2008 5:15 PM
Subject: RV10-List: N402RH First Flight
S/N: 40204 N402RH was signed off Friday night and flew for the first
time this morning. I have eleven days to fly 39 hours before flying it
to Oshkosh. It has the new Hartzell three blade composite prop and it
is remarkably quit and smooth.
Two Advanced Deck EFIS's, AF-3400MFD, 430W, SL30 , GTX330, 496, MH 4ip
Oxygen System, PM9000, DigiFlight IIVSGV
1610 Lbs, no paint or carpet
I will post some pictures tomorrow.
Rob Hickman
N402RH RV-10 Flying!!
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
Get the scoop on last night's hottest shows and the live music scene
in your area - Check out TourTracker.com!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "bruce breckenridge" <bbreckenridge(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: N402RH First Flight |
Wahoo!! Way to go Rob!
On Mon, Jul 14, 2008 at 5:15 PM, wrote:
> S/N: 40204 N402RH was signed off Friday night and flew for the first time
> this morning. I have eleven days to fly 39 hours before flying it to
> Oshkosh. It has the new Hartzell three blade composite prop and it is
> remarkably quit and smooth.
>
> Two Advanced Deck EFIS's, AF-3400MFD, 430W, SL30 , GTX330, 496, MH 4ip
> Oxygen System, PM9000, DigiFlight IIVSGV
>
> 1610 Lbs, no paint or carpet
>
> I will post some pictures tomorrow.
>
> Rob Hickman
>
> N402RH RV-10 Flying!!
>
>
> ------------------------------
> Get the scoop on last night's hottest shows and the live music scene in
> your area - Check out TourTracker.com<http://www.tourtracker.com/?NCID=aolmus00050000000112>
> !
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jay Rowe" <jfrjr(at)roadrunner.com> |
| Subject: | windshield install question |
Getting the windshield installed---so far, so good. But the plans ask
you to make a sanding block to conform to the 7" radius between the
plexi and the fuse. How does one make such a sanding block, and out of
what kind of material? Thanks, Jay Rowe #40301
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Neal George" <n8zg(at)mchsi.com> |
| Subject: | windshield install question |
Jay - I used all sorts of stuff for sanding forms at different points around
the fairing on my RV-7- scrap wood blocks, chunks of PVC pipe, a coffee can,
a bucket, whatever fit approximated the desired curve at a particular
point.. One of the most useful was a 3M hard rubber sanding block with the
paper mounted on the "wrong" side.
neal
==================
Getting the windshield installed---so far, so good. But the plans ask you
to make a sanding block to conform to the 7" radius between the plexi and
the fuse. How does one make such a sanding block, and out of what kind of
material? Thanks, Jay Rowe #40301
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Pnuematic belt sander. |
Sorry guys=2C
Some one gave me a link to a cheep one inch pnuematic belt sander and I ord
erred it two weeks ago and expected to see it in my office once I came back
from France. It isn't in my office.
All my messages back to that date have been deleted on the computer and I h
ave no record of my purchase. Can the same person send me the link again so
I can investigate.
Thanks=2C
John Gonzalez
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: N402RH First Flight |
Rob, That's GREAT, I have to admit, when I saw your plane in May, I was
doubtful you'd make it to OSH, looks like you're proving me wrong.
Deems #406
glad to be wrong
June 27, 2008 - July 14, 2008
RV10-Archive.digest.vol-dm