RV10-Archive.digest.vol-es
June 16, 2009 - July 03, 2009
>
>
>
> I had 10 young eagle flights two weeks ago, on a 75 Deg F day
>
> - Fuel Pump - OFF (No Prime)
> - Throttle - Wide Open
> - Mixture - Cutoff
> - Crank till it fires
> - Mixture - Ease it in (Too fast will flood it (Again!))
> - Throttle - Close to high idle
>
> Worked for me - But not a real pretty start, but got the fan running
>
> Jim C
> N312F - 75 hours
>
>
> * *
>
> * *
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> *http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List*
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> *http://forums.matronics.com*
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> *http://www.matronics.com/contribution*
>
> **
>
> * *
>
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> 06/15/09 05:54:00
>
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
I just went through this with Don Rivera @ Airflow Performance, and the
roughness/surging during taxi with a hot engine is caused by the engine
heating/vaporizing the fuel in the distribution lines from the spider to
the cylinders. If you've got a plenum it also exacerbates the problem
for obvious reasons. Depending on fuel flows @ Take Off there is a
possibility of going to smaller nozzles which increases the psi in the
lines. insulating them only makes it worse according to Don, as it takes
longer for the lines to cool.
Deems Davis N519PJ
Tim Olson wrote:
>
> One thing I could add to the hot start commentary is that while
> I do find hot starts to be no problem at all for me, the
> engine does not run as smooth during taxi on a hot start.
> I attribute this to vapor in the lines that builds up, but
> I can't guarantee that I'm correct. All I know is that
> as I taxi, it burbles more than cold. Once you pour the
> coals on though, you have so much fuel flow I think the
> added cool fuel flowing probably decreases the temps and
> the vapor disappears, because it never affects my power
> at higher throttle.....just leaned idle.
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
>
>
> Robin Marks wrote:
>> Jim,
>>
>> Next time try the exact same procedure but with the fuel
>> pump on and see if it works better for you. To be clear
>>
>>
>>
>> - Fuel Pump - OFF (No Prime)
>> - Throttle - Wide Open
>> - Mixture Cutoff
>>
>> - Fuel Pump - On
>> - Crank till it fires
>> - Mixture - Ease it in (Too fast will flood it (Again!))
>> - Throttle - Close to high idle
>>
>>
>>
>> Robin
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Susan
>> *Sent:* Tuesday, June 16, 2009 7:19 AM
>> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>> *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: hot starts
>>
>>
>>
>> I had 10 young eagle flights two weeks ago, on a 75 Deg F day
>>
>> - Fuel Pump - OFF (No Prime)
>> - Throttle - Wide Open
>> - Mixture - Cutoff
>> - Crank till it fires
>> - Mixture - Ease it in (Too fast will flood it (Again!))
>> - Throttle - Close to high idle
>>
>> Worked for me - But not a real pretty start, but got the fan running
>>
>> Jim C
>> N312F - 75 hours
>>
>>
>> * *
>>
>> * *
>>
>> **
>>
>> **
>>
>> **
>>
>> **
>>
>> **
>>
>> **
>>
>> *http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List*
>>
>> **
>>
>> **
>>
>> **
>>
>> *http://forums.matronics.com*
>>
>> **
>>
>> **
>>
>> **
>>
>> **
>>
>> *http://www.matronics.com/contribution*
>>
>> **
>>
>> * *
>>
>> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>> 06/15/09 05:54:00
>>
>> *
>>
>>
>> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com> |
I agree with Tim. I taxi at 1400 after a hot start or else the engine may
not even keep running. After several minutes it gets better.
Also, over the winter I worked on oil temp and baffling. I am not committed
to saying I fixed my high oil temp problem, it has been to cool here so far
this year, but it is looking like I did. So, although I am not convinced
yet, my engine runs better after a hot start than it did last year. I will
wait until the temps get up into the high 90s on the ground before I declare
victory........
I did fly out of Vegas in May, it was in the 80's and I did not get a
cylinder head temp warning or an oil temp warning....last year I got
both......it was an almost straight climb to 14,500 this year.......I
normally climb at between 110 and 120 indicated......
Rene' Felker
RV-10 N423CF Flying
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Tuesday, June 16, 2009 10:17 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: hot starts
One thing I could add to the hot start commentary is that while
I do find hot starts to be no problem at all for me, the
engine does not run as smooth during taxi on a hot start.
I attribute this to vapor in the lines that builds up, but
I can't guarantee that I'm correct. All I know is that
as I taxi, it burbles more than cold. Once you pour the
coals on though, you have so much fuel flow I think the
added cool fuel flowing probably decreases the temps and
the vapor disappears, because it never affects my power
at higher throttle.....just leaned idle.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
Robin Marks wrote:
> Jim,
>
> Next time try the exact same procedure but with the fuel
> pump on and see if it works better for you. To be clear.
>
>
>
> - Fuel Pump - OFF (No Prime)
> - Throttle - Wide Open
> - Mixture - Cutoff
>
> - Fuel Pump - On
> - Crank till it fires
> - Mixture - Ease it in (Too fast will flood it (Again!))
> - Throttle - Close to high idle
>
>
>
> Robin
>
>
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Susan
> *Sent:* Tuesday, June 16, 2009 7:19 AM
> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: hot starts
>
>
>
> I had 10 young eagle flights two weeks ago, on a 75 Deg F day
>
> - Fuel Pump - OFF (No Prime)
> - Throttle - Wide Open
> - Mixture - Cutoff
> - Crank till it fires
> - Mixture - Ease it in (Too fast will flood it (Again!))
> - Throttle - Close to high idle
>
> Worked for me - But not a real pretty start, but got the fan running
>
> Jim C
> N312F - 75 hours
>
>
> * *
>
> * *
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> *http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List*
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> *http://forums.matronics.com*
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> *http://www.matronics.com/contribution*
>
> **
>
> * *
>
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> 06/15/09 05:54:00
>
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
Do you lean aggressively after start? I taxi with 1000-1200 no problem.
Engine will quit with too much fuel or too little for the amount of air.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rene Felker
Sent: Tuesday, June 16, 2009 9:57 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: hot starts
I agree with Tim. I taxi at 1400 after a hot start or else the engine may
not even keep running. After several minutes it gets better.
Also, over the winter I worked on oil temp and baffling. I am not committed
to saying I fixed my high oil temp problem, it has been to cool here so far
this year, but it is looking like I did. So, although I am not convinced
yet, my engine runs better after a hot start than it did last year. I will
wait until the temps get up into the high 90s on the ground before I declare
victory........
I did fly out of Vegas in May, it was in the 80's and I did not get a
cylinder head temp warning or an oil temp warning....last year I got
both......it was an almost straight climb to 14,500 this year.......I
normally climb at between 110 and 120 indicated......
Rene' Felker
RV-10 N423CF Flying
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Tuesday, June 16, 2009 10:17 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: hot starts
One thing I could add to the hot start commentary is that while I do find
hot starts to be no problem at all for me, the engine does not run as smooth
during taxi on a hot start.
I attribute this to vapor in the lines that builds up, but I can't guarantee
that I'm correct. All I know is that as I taxi, it burbles more than cold.
Once you pour the coals on though, you have so much fuel flow I think the
added cool fuel flowing probably decreases the temps and the vapor
disappears, because it never affects my power at higher throttle.....just
leaned idle.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
Robin Marks wrote:
> Jim,
>
> Next time try the exact same procedure but with the fuel
> pump on and see if it works better for you. To be clear.
>
>
>
> - Fuel Pump - OFF (No Prime)
> - Throttle - Wide Open
> - Mixture - Cutoff
>
> - Fuel Pump - On
> - Crank till it fires
> - Mixture - Ease it in (Too fast will flood it (Again!))
> - Throttle - Close to high idle
>
>
>
> Robin
>
>
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Susan
> *Sent:* Tuesday, June 16, 2009 7:19 AM
> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: hot starts
>
>
>
> I had 10 young eagle flights two weeks ago, on a 75 Deg F day
>
> - Fuel Pump - OFF (No Prime)
> - Throttle - Wide Open
> - Mixture - Cutoff
> - Crank till it fires
> - Mixture - Ease it in (Too fast will flood it (Again!))
> - Throttle - Close to high idle
>
> Worked for me - But not a real pretty start, but got the fan running
>
> Jim C
> N312F - 75 hours
>
>
> * *
>
> * *
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> *http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List*
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> *http://forums.matronics.com*
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> *http://www.matronics.com/contribution*
>
> **
>
> * *
>
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> 06/15/09 05:54:00
>
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
Also what is the value of your temp warning? 350f? 400f? 450f? For me
250-360f is green range; 361-420f yellow range; 421+ red range. Lycoming
temp limits are higher. We initially had yellow temp conditions until we cut
down the air dams and then removed them completely, located AZ.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rene Felker
Sent: Tuesday, June 16, 2009 9:57 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: hot starts
I agree with Tim. I taxi at 1400 after a hot start or else the engine may
not even keep running. After several minutes it gets better.
Also, over the winter I worked on oil temp and baffling. I am not committed
to saying I fixed my high oil temp problem, it has been to cool here so far
this year, but it is looking like I did. So, although I am not convinced
yet, my engine runs better after a hot start than it did last year. I will
wait until the temps get up into the high 90s on the ground before I declare
victory........
I did fly out of Vegas in May, it was in the 80's and I did not get a
cylinder head temp warning or an oil temp warning....last year I got
both......it was an almost straight climb to 14,500 this year.......I
normally climb at between 110 and 120 indicated......
Rene' Felker
RV-10 N423CF Flying
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Tuesday, June 16, 2009 10:17 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: hot starts
One thing I could add to the hot start commentary is that while I do find
hot starts to be no problem at all for me, the engine does not run as smooth
during taxi on a hot start.
I attribute this to vapor in the lines that builds up, but I can't guarantee
that I'm correct. All I know is that as I taxi, it burbles more than cold.
Once you pour the coals on though, you have so much fuel flow I think the
added cool fuel flowing probably decreases the temps and the vapor
disappears, because it never affects my power at higher throttle.....just
leaned idle.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
Robin Marks wrote:
> Jim,
>
> Next time try the exact same procedure but with the fuel
> pump on and see if it works better for you. To be clear.
>
>
>
> - Fuel Pump - OFF (No Prime)
> - Throttle - Wide Open
> - Mixture - Cutoff
>
> - Fuel Pump - On
> - Crank till it fires
> - Mixture - Ease it in (Too fast will flood it (Again!))
> - Throttle - Close to high idle
>
>
>
> Robin
>
>
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Susan
> *Sent:* Tuesday, June 16, 2009 7:19 AM
> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: hot starts
>
>
>
> I had 10 young eagle flights two weeks ago, on a 75 Deg F day
>
> - Fuel Pump - OFF (No Prime)
> - Throttle - Wide Open
> - Mixture - Cutoff
> - Crank till it fires
> - Mixture - Ease it in (Too fast will flood it (Again!))
> - Throttle - Close to high idle
>
> Worked for me - But not a real pretty start, but got the fan running
>
> Jim C
> N312F - 75 hours
>
>
> * *
>
> * *
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> *http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List*
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> *http://forums.matronics.com*
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> *http://www.matronics.com/contribution*
>
> **
>
> * *
>
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> 06/15/09 05:54:00
>
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com> |
Yes I lean aggressively, being at ~4500 feet I need to or the plugs will
foul. I only have to pick up the RPMs after a hot start.....it is
embarrassing to have the engine stop while you are on the taxi
way.....passengers get concerned also. After a cold (regular) start I keep
it at 1000 rpm.
Rene' Felker
RV-10 N423CF Flying
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David McNeill
Sent: Tuesday, June 16, 2009 11:52 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: hot starts
Do you lean aggressively after start? I taxi with 1000-1200 no problem.
Engine will quit with too much fuel or too little for the amount of air.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rene Felker
Sent: Tuesday, June 16, 2009 9:57 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: hot starts
I agree with Tim. I taxi at 1400 after a hot start or else the engine may
not even keep running. After several minutes it gets better.
Also, over the winter I worked on oil temp and baffling. I am not committed
to saying I fixed my high oil temp problem, it has been to cool here so far
this year, but it is looking like I did. So, although I am not convinced
yet, my engine runs better after a hot start than it did last year. I will
wait until the temps get up into the high 90s on the ground before I declare
victory........
I did fly out of Vegas in May, it was in the 80's and I did not get a
cylinder head temp warning or an oil temp warning....last year I got
both......it was an almost straight climb to 14,500 this year.......I
normally climb at between 110 and 120 indicated......
Rene' Felker
RV-10 N423CF Flying
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Tuesday, June 16, 2009 10:17 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: hot starts
One thing I could add to the hot start commentary is that while I do find
hot starts to be no problem at all for me, the engine does not run as smooth
during taxi on a hot start.
I attribute this to vapor in the lines that builds up, but I can't guarantee
that I'm correct. All I know is that as I taxi, it burbles more than cold.
Once you pour the coals on though, you have so much fuel flow I think the
added cool fuel flowing probably decreases the temps and the vapor
disappears, because it never affects my power at higher throttle.....just
leaned idle.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
Robin Marks wrote:
> Jim,
>
> Next time try the exact same procedure but with the fuel
> pump on and see if it works better for you. To be clear.
>
>
>
> - Fuel Pump - OFF (No Prime)
> - Throttle - Wide Open
> - Mixture - Cutoff
>
> - Fuel Pump - On
> - Crank till it fires
> - Mixture - Ease it in (Too fast will flood it (Again!))
> - Throttle - Close to high idle
>
>
>
> Robin
>
>
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Susan
> *Sent:* Tuesday, June 16, 2009 7:19 AM
> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: hot starts
>
>
>
> I had 10 young eagle flights two weeks ago, on a 75 Deg F day
>
> - Fuel Pump - OFF (No Prime)
> - Throttle - Wide Open
> - Mixture - Cutoff
> - Crank till it fires
> - Mixture - Ease it in (Too fast will flood it (Again!))
> - Throttle - Close to high idle
>
> Worked for me - But not a real pretty start, but got the fan running
>
> Jim C
> N312F - 75 hours
>
>
> * *
>
> * *
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> *http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List*
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> *http://forums.matronics.com*
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> *http://www.matronics.com/contribution*
>
> **
>
> * *
>
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> 06/15/09 05:54:00
>
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com> |
For the CHT I have it set (warning) at 420. Last year I ran 380 to 400 in
cruse climb and 380 in low level cruse. I have not seen 400 yet this year,
and cruse is closer to 350 on low level cruse.
I cut my fences down a little, but they are still there....
Rene' Felker
RV-10 N423CF Flying
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David McNeill
Sent: Tuesday, June 16, 2009 12:11 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: hot starts
Also what is the value of your temp warning? 350f? 400f? 450f? For me
250-360f is green range; 361-420f yellow range; 421+ red range. Lycoming
temp limits are higher. We initially had yellow temp conditions until we cut
down the air dams and then removed them completely, located AZ.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rene Felker
Sent: Tuesday, June 16, 2009 9:57 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: hot starts
I agree with Tim. I taxi at 1400 after a hot start or else the engine may
not even keep running. After several minutes it gets better.
Also, over the winter I worked on oil temp and baffling. I am not committed
to saying I fixed my high oil temp problem, it has been to cool here so far
this year, but it is looking like I did. So, although I am not convinced
yet, my engine runs better after a hot start than it did last year. I will
wait until the temps get up into the high 90s on the ground before I declare
victory........
I did fly out of Vegas in May, it was in the 80's and I did not get a
cylinder head temp warning or an oil temp warning....last year I got
both......it was an almost straight climb to 14,500 this year.......I
normally climb at between 110 and 120 indicated......
Rene' Felker
RV-10 N423CF Flying
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Tuesday, June 16, 2009 10:17 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: hot starts
One thing I could add to the hot start commentary is that while I do find
hot starts to be no problem at all for me, the engine does not run as smooth
during taxi on a hot start.
I attribute this to vapor in the lines that builds up, but I can't guarantee
that I'm correct. All I know is that as I taxi, it burbles more than cold.
Once you pour the coals on though, you have so much fuel flow I think the
added cool fuel flowing probably decreases the temps and the vapor
disappears, because it never affects my power at higher throttle.....just
leaned idle.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
Robin Marks wrote:
> Jim,
>
> Next time try the exact same procedure but with the fuel
> pump on and see if it works better for you. To be clear.
>
>
>
> - Fuel Pump - OFF (No Prime)
> - Throttle - Wide Open
> - Mixture - Cutoff
>
> - Fuel Pump - On
> - Crank till it fires
> - Mixture - Ease it in (Too fast will flood it (Again!))
> - Throttle - Close to high idle
>
>
>
> Robin
>
>
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Susan
> *Sent:* Tuesday, June 16, 2009 7:19 AM
> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: hot starts
>
>
>
> I had 10 young eagle flights two weeks ago, on a 75 Deg F day
>
> - Fuel Pump - OFF (No Prime)
> - Throttle - Wide Open
> - Mixture - Cutoff
> - Crank till it fires
> - Mixture - Ease it in (Too fast will flood it (Again!))
> - Throttle - Close to high idle
>
> Worked for me - But not a real pretty start, but got the fan running
>
> Jim C
> N312F - 75 hours
>
>
> * *
>
> * *
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> *http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List*
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> *http://forums.matronics.com*
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> *http://www.matronics.com/contribution*
>
> **
>
> * *
>
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> 06/15/09 05:54:00
>
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
Try the boost pump on for taxi when hot
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rene Felker
Sent: Tuesday, June 16, 2009 11:36 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: hot starts
Yes I lean aggressively, being at ~4500 feet I need to or the plugs will
foul. I only have to pick up the RPMs after a hot start.....it is
embarrassing to have the engine stop while you are on the taxi
way.....passengers get concerned also. After a cold (regular) start I keep
it at 1000 rpm.
Rene' Felker
RV-10 N423CF Flying
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David McNeill
Sent: Tuesday, June 16, 2009 11:52 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: hot starts
Do you lean aggressively after start? I taxi with 1000-1200 no problem.
Engine will quit with too much fuel or too little for the amount of air.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rene Felker
Sent: Tuesday, June 16, 2009 9:57 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: hot starts
I agree with Tim. I taxi at 1400 after a hot start or else the engine may
not even keep running. After several minutes it gets better.
Also, over the winter I worked on oil temp and baffling. I am not committed
to saying I fixed my high oil temp problem, it has been to cool here so far
this year, but it is looking like I did. So, although I am not convinced
yet, my engine runs better after a hot start than it did last year. I will
wait until the temps get up into the high 90s on the ground before I declare
victory........
I did fly out of Vegas in May, it was in the 80's and I did not get a
cylinder head temp warning or an oil temp warning....last year I got
both......it was an almost straight climb to 14,500 this year.......I
normally climb at between 110 and 120 indicated......
Rene' Felker
RV-10 N423CF Flying
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Tuesday, June 16, 2009 10:17 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: hot starts
One thing I could add to the hot start commentary is that while I do find
hot starts to be no problem at all for me, the engine does not run as smooth
during taxi on a hot start.
I attribute this to vapor in the lines that builds up, but I can't guarantee
that I'm correct. All I know is that as I taxi, it burbles more than cold.
Once you pour the coals on though, you have so much fuel flow I think the
added cool fuel flowing probably decreases the temps and the vapor
disappears, because it never affects my power at higher throttle.....just
leaned idle.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
Robin Marks wrote:
> Jim,
>
> Next time try the exact same procedure but with the fuel
> pump on and see if it works better for you. To be clear.
>
>
>
> - Fuel Pump - OFF (No Prime)
> - Throttle - Wide Open
> - Mixture - Cutoff
>
> - Fuel Pump - On
> - Crank till it fires
> - Mixture - Ease it in (Too fast will flood it (Again!))
> - Throttle - Close to high idle
>
>
>
> Robin
>
>
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Susan
> *Sent:* Tuesday, June 16, 2009 7:19 AM
> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: hot starts
>
>
>
> I had 10 young eagle flights two weeks ago, on a 75 Deg F day
>
> - Fuel Pump - OFF (No Prime)
> - Throttle - Wide Open
> - Mixture - Cutoff
> - Crank till it fires
> - Mixture - Ease it in (Too fast will flood it (Again!))
> - Throttle - Close to high idle
>
> Worked for me - But not a real pretty start, but got the fan running
>
> Jim C
> N312F - 75 hours
>
>
> * *
>
> * *
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> *http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List*
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> *http://forums.matronics.com*
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> *http://www.matronics.com/contribution*
>
> **
>
> * *
>
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> 06/15/09 05:54:00
>
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Neil & Sarah Colliver <ncol(at)xtra.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: T/O data point |
FYI
Grass runway at 140' above sea level
QNH 1017
Temp - freezing
Wind on ground - Nil
Full fuel & 1 adult, 1 child
Take off run was 179 yards
Very easy to tell with the frost marks
Neil
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | N246RS Airworthy |
| From: | ricksked(at)embarqmail.com |
.N246RS became a full fledged aeroplane at exactly high noon today...5 years 4
months , 12 days after opening the first crate.....
Rick Sked
N246RS...Airworthy!!!
Fuel er up!!!!
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rhonda Bewley" <Rhonda(at)bpaengines.com> |
Whew! You're running a stock engine, right? :-)
Rhonda
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Neil & Sarah
Colliver
Sent: Tuesday, June 16, 2009 4:00 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: T/O data point
FYI
Grass runway at 140' above sea level
QNH 1017
Temp - freezing
Wind on ground - Nil
Full fuel & 1 adult, 1 child
Take off run was 179 yards
Very easy to tell with the frost marks
Neil
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com> |
| Subject: | N246RS Airworthy |
Congrats.........
Rene' Felker
RV-10 N423CF Flying
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
ricksked(at)embarqmail.com
Sent: Tuesday, June 16, 2009 3:30 PM
Subject: RV10-List: N246RS Airworthy
.N246RS became a full fledged aeroplane at exactly high noon today...5 years
4 months , 12 days after opening the first crate.....
Rick Sked
N246RS...Airworthy!!!
Fuel er up!!!!
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Susan" <jim(at)CombsFive.Com> |
Well I tried the fuel pump on and off just after the start but could not
really tell a difference. Like Tim, I noticed a little roughness on
the taxi to the runway. But it always cleared up after a minute or so of
running. I do lean aggressively once the engine is running for
taxi.
It's for sure a little hard to start once it gets warmed
up. Only once have I had to crank twice to get a running engine (I
jumped on the mixture too soon).
But that day I did a lot of
starts in a short period of time (10 starts in 4 hours). Burned 20
gallons that day flying the young eagles.
It was fun.
Jim C
N312F
----------------------------------------
Jim,
Next time try the exact same procedure but with the fuel
pump
on and see if it works better for you. To be clear...
- Fuel Pump - OFF (No Prime)
- Throttle - Wide Open
- Mixture
- Cutoff
- Fuel Pump - On
- Crank till it fires
-
Mixture - Ease it in (Too fast will flood it (Again!))
- Throttle -
Close to high idle
Robin
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Susan
Sent: Tuesday, June 16, 2009 7:19 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: hot starts
I had 10 young
eagle flights two weeks ago, on a 75 Deg F day
- Fuel Pump -
OFF (No Prime)
- Throttle - Wide Open
- Mixture - Cutoff
-
Crank till it fires
- Mixture - Ease it in (Too fast will flood it
(Again!))
- Throttle - Close to high idle
Worked for me -
But not a real pretty start, but got the fan running
Jim C
N312F - 75 hours
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
06/15/09 05:54:00
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | N246RS Airworthy |
| From: | "BPA" <BPA(at)bpaengines.com> |
Yippppeeeee!!
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
ricksked(at)embarqmail.com
Sent: Tuesday, June 16, 2009 3:30 PM
Subject: RV10-List: N246RS Airworthy
.N246RS became a full fledged aeroplane at exactly high noon today...5
years 4 months , 12 days after opening the first crate.....
Rick Sked
N246RS...Airworthy!!!
Fuel er up!!!!
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: IO540 Operators Manual |
| From: | "Susan" <jim(at)CombsFive.Com> |
I too would love to have a soft copy of the manual.'
Jim C
N312F
Jim(at)CombsFive.Com
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Does anyone have or know where to get an electronic copy of
the operators
manual?
Gary Specketer
N204GS Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cumins" <jcumins(at)jcis.net> |
| Subject: | N246RS Airworthy |
Congrats Rick Have fun with the first flight.
John G. Cumins
President
JC'S Interactive Systems
2499 B1 Martin Rd
Fairfield Ca 94533
707-425-7100
707-425-7576 Fax
Your Total Technology Solution Provider
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
ricksked(at)embarqmail.com
Sent: Tuesday, June 16, 2009 2:30 PM
Subject: RV10-List: N246RS Airworthy
.N246RS became a full fledged aeroplane at exactly high noon today...5 years
4 months , 12 days after opening the first crate.....
Rick Sked
N246RS...Airworthy!!!
Fuel er up!!!!
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fred Williams, M.D." <drfred(at)suddenlinkmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: N246RS Airworthy |
Happy birthday.....to the airplane that is.
Dr Fred.
ricksked(at)embarqmail.com wrote:
>
> .N246RS became a full fledged aeroplane at exactly high noon today...5 years
4 months , 12 days after opening the first crate.....
>
> Rick Sked
> N246RS...Airworthy!!!
> Fuel er up!!!!
> Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | N246RS Airworthy |
| From: | "McGann, Ron" <Ron.McGann(at)thalesgroup.com.au> |
Good onya Rick. Looking forward to hearing about first flight.
Cheers,
Ron
VH-XRM in Oz
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
ricksked(at)embarqmail.com
Sent: Wednesday, 17 June 2009 7:30 AM
Subject: RV10-List: N246RS Airworthy
.N246RS became a full fledged aeroplane at exactly high noon today...5
years 4 months , 12 days after opening the first crate.....
Rick Sked
N246RS...Airworthy!!!
Fuel er up!!!!
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cumins" <jcumins(at)jcis.net> |
| Subject: | N246RS Airworthy |
Hey Rick
How about some pics of the completed paint and interior.
I was in Las Vegas 3 weeks ago and Rick was n the middle of paint, I was
totally impressed with his build quality, he has a awesome bird.
You have done a great mammoth job Rick.
John G. Cumins
President
JC'S Interactive Systems
2499 B1 Martin Rd
Fairfield Ca 94533
707-425-7100
707-425-7576 Fax
Your Total Technology Solution Provider
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
ricksked(at)embarqmail.com
Sent: Tuesday, June 16, 2009 2:30 PM
Subject: RV10-List: N246RS Airworthy
.N246RS became a full fledged aeroplane at exactly high noon today...5 years
4 months , 12 days after opening the first crate.....
Rick Sked
N246RS...Airworthy!!!
Fuel er up!!!!
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: N246RS Airworthy |
Rick This is GREAT news !!!!!!!!!!!!!! How some pictures? When is 1st
flight?
Deems Davis
ricksked(at)embarqmail.com wrote:
>
> .N246RS became a full fledged aeroplane at exactly high noon today...5 years
4 months , 12 days after opening the first crate.....
>
> Rick Sked
> N246RS...Airworthy!!!
> Fuel er up!!!!
> Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: N246RS Airworthy |
Congrats Rick.... so whens the first flight?- Unlike my situation, for yo
u, when the planes done, you're ready.- My plane had to sit for 2 months
waiting for me to get ready.- Got 12 hours on her already... so get up th
ere.... and I'm sure we'll hear about it.
Don McDonald
--- On Tue, 6/16/09, ricksked(at)embarqmail.com wrot
e:
From: ricksked(at)embarqmail.com <ricksked(at)embarqmail.com>
Subject: RV10-List: N246RS Airworthy
Date: Tuesday, June 16, 2009, 2:30 PM
.N246RS became a full fledged aeroplane at exactly high noon today...5 year
s 4 months , 12 days after opening the first crate.....
Rick Sked
N246RS...Airworthy!!!
Fuel- er up!!!!
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
le, List Admin.
=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "fdombroski" <f.dombroski(at)yahoo.com> |
I find that leaning the engine for taxi will minimize the rough running, especially
when hot...
Cheers,
Frank
N46WD Grinning
--------
Frank Dombroski
RV-10 N46WD Flying
RV-8 N84FD final assembly
N40 Sky Manor Airport
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=248617#248617
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Neil & Sarah Colliver <ncol(at)xtra.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: T/O data point |
Yeh - right, not quite.
A wonderfullllly balanced engine from you guys, with MT prop. Makes it
even smoooother ;-)
On 17/06/2009, at 9:15 AM, Rhonda Bewley wrote:
> >
>
> Whew! You're running a stock engine, right? :-)
>
> Rhonda
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Neil &
> Sarah
> Colliver
> Sent: Tuesday, June 16, 2009 4:00 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: T/O data point
>
> >
>
> FYI
> Grass runway at 140' above sea level
> QNH 1017
> Temp - freezing
> Wind on ground - Nil
> Full fuel & 1 adult, 1 child
> Take off run was 179 yards
> Very easy to tell with the frost marks
>
> Neil
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wayne Edgerton" <wayne.e(at)grandecom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: N246RS Airworthy |
Hey congratulations Rick. What was your hurry in getting it done :>}
Good luck on your first flight.
Wayne Edgerton N602WT
Just finishing up on my second conditional
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Guy and Jill Foreman <guyjill01(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Complete IRF panel for sale |
I thought I pass along a complete IFR prewired panel I have for sale. The p
ane is currently installed in a Velocity=2C but could be used in a Vans RV
. Will be removed with every wire attached. I have listed on www.barnstorme
rs.com look under experimental/velocity $19=2C000. I have pics=2C but to l
arge for the site. below is a list of the items on the panel:
Garmin MX-20 W/ Terrian MFD
Apollo SL-15 audio panel W/ MB & 4 pl intercom
Apollo GX-60 GPS / Comm (IFR Cert)
Apollo SL-30 Comm/ Nav With G/S
Apollo SL-70 Transponder W/ encoder
STEC 30 auto pilot W/ alt hold & GPSS stearing
JPI Engine anlizer CHT/EGT/FF (4 cylinder engine)
JPI slim line engine gauges
GI-106 Indicator W/ GS
Traffic scope
Apollo mode select panel (vor/gps)
Caution panel
4 Place mic/ phone jacks
UMA inst lights W/ dimmer
ADI (vac)
DG W/ heading bug (Vac)
Airspeed
Altimeter
VSI
Suction guage
Fuel guage (LT/ RT)
Hobbs
Elec clock
Note: entire panel comes as shown in picture. Includes throttle=2C mixture
=2C prop=2C switch/breaker panel=2C compass=2C pre wired.
Thanks=2C
Guy Foreman
guyjill01(at)hotmail.com
321-626-7699 C
219-477-5424 H
_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail=AE has ever-growing storage! Don=92t worry about storage limits.
http://windowslive.com/Tutorial/Hotmail/Storage?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_Tuto
rial_Storage_062009
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | N246RS Airworthy |
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
Congrats Rick! Now, when is Bob K. going to get there...
Bob
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
ricksked(at)embarqmail.com
Sent: Tuesday, June 16, 2009 4:30 PM
Subject: RV10-List: N246RS Airworthy
.N246RS became a full fledged aeroplane at exactly high noon today...5
years 4 months , 12 days after opening the first crate.....
Rick Sked
N246RS...Airworthy!!!
Fuel er up!!!!
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Jessen" <n212pj(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | N246RS Airworthy |
Hey, Dude! What a very nice message to receive! Can't wait to see it.
John J
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
ricksked(at)embarqmail.com
Sent: Tuesday, June 16, 2009 2:30 PM
.N246RS became a full fledged aeroplane at exactly high noon today...5 years
4 months , 12 days after opening the first crate.....
Rick Sked
N246RS...Airworthy!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rear baggage wall access panel |
| From: | ricksked(at)embarqmail.com |
Ck Robin Marks site. I copied his
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
-----Original Message-----
From: "Wayne Edgerton" <wayne.e(at)grandecom.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Jun 2009 18:22:09
Subject: RV10-List: Rear baggage wall access panel
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rear baggage wall access panel |
| From: | effectus(at)rogers.com |
Wayne,
I did that mod to the rear baggage wall. I'll get a
couple of photos tomorrow and e-mail them to you. I
am not sure how to post photos. - will also put a w
rite-up about it on my blog. Here is the link wwwmkitai
rcraftmods.com
Dave
Fitting the door hardware.
work
-----Original Message-----
From: "Wayne Edgerton" <wayne.e(at)grandecom.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Jun 2009 18:22:09
Subject: RV10-List: Rear baggage wall access panel
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: N246RS Airworthy |
| From: | ricksked(at)embarqmail.com |
Lol....yeah but if ya tell the truth you never have to remember what you lied about...one
of those few euphemisms I a lady told me that made sense...but she
turned out to be a liar...go figure.
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
-----Original Message-----
From: "gary" <speckter(at)comcast.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Jun 2009 18:55:39
Subject: RE: RV10-List: N246RS Airworthy
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robin Marks" <robin1(at)mrmoisture.com> |
Just a quick PIREP on my Duckworks Dual HID light system.
We installed two Duckworth 35 Watt HID lights and a Wig/Wag controller
to the leading edges of our -10. In the short time we have been flying I
have had A LOT of people (strangers) come up to me and tell me how
bright & noticeable they in full daylight. I remember seeing my
neighbor's Pilatus swoop in to our filed with his HID's a blazing and I
had to have them. Also of note several people thought my plane was much
larger because of the spread of the lights (?). For the record no wing
extension mods!.
Since their introduction I believe there are less expensive choices
available but regardless I am extremely happy with the firepower of the
dual HID's and think it's one of the least expensive safety options you
can add to their build. Seeing is the key to avoiding.
Robin
Note: Lights are not on, that is just the suns reflection.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael D Chase <MChase(at)gdatp.com> |
Guys,
OK this may be a bit late to ask this question but I took a bit of time
off from my wings and seem to have forgotten how to do rivet plates.
When I attempt to rivet the plate on I am having issues with a gap between
the surface and plate due to rocking on the dimple put in for the screw
down the middle. Trying to get in there with a pair of needle nose pliers
to hold everything tight is a bit more then I can do with 2 hands:-)
Thanks
Michael Chase
Sr. Manager Supplier Quality
General Dynamics Armament and Technical Products, Inc
128 Lakeside Ave
Burlington, VT 05401
802.657.6029 Office
802.922.5930 Cell
802.657.6715
mchase(at)gdatp.com
This e-mail message (including attachments, if any) is for the sole use of
the intended recipient(s) and may contain information that is private,
confidential, or exempt from disclosure. Any unauthorized review, use,
copying, printing, disclosure, retention, or distribution is strictly
prohibited. If you are not the intended recipient, please contact the
sender by reply to this e-mail, and delete all copies without disclosing
this message to others. Thank you.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rivet Plates |
Hey Michael,
If there's a dimple for the screw, you should be using a nut plate that
is countersunk for the dimple ... ?
Later, - Lew
----- Original Message -----
From: Michael D Chase
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, June 18, 2009 7:20 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Rivet Plates
Guys,
OK this may be a bit late to ask this question but I took a bit of
time off from my wings and seem to have forgotten how to do rivet
plates.
When I attempt to rivet the plate on I am having issues with a gap
between the surface and plate due to rocking on the dimple put in for
the screw down the middle. Trying to get in there with a pair of needle
nose pliers to hold everything tight is a bit more then I can do with 2
hands:-)
Thanks
Michael Chase
Sr. Manager Supplier Quality
General Dynamics Armament and Technical Products, Inc
128 Lakeside Ave
Burlington, VT 05401
802.657.6029 Office
802.922.5930 Cell
802.657.6715
mchase(at)gdatp.com
This e-mail message (including attachments, if any) is for the sole
use of the intended recipient(s) and may contain information that is
private, confidential, or exempt from disclosure. Any unauthorized
review, use, copying, printing, disclosure, retention, or distribution
is strictly prohibited. If you are not the intended recipient, please
contact the sender by reply to this e-mail, and delete all copies
without disclosing this message to others. Thank you.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rivet Plates |
| From: | ricksked(at)embarqmail.com |
Dumb as it may sound...you are using the 1100 style nutplates? And you are dimpling
the lugs? I just use a cleco to hold one side while riveting the other side...never
had and problems with rocking of the plate...that's all I can think
of Michael..
Rick Sked
N246RS
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
-----Original Message-----
From: Michael D Chase <MChase(at)gdatp.com>
Date: Thu, 18 Jun 2009 07:20:12
Subject: RV10-List: Rivet Plates
This is a multipart message in MIME format.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kent Ogden" <OgdenK(at)upstate.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: Rivet Plates |
Michael,
If I recall some of the numbers, there is for example a K1100-6 and a
K1100-06 nutplate for #6 screws, one is for dimpled skins, the other is
flush. Are you sure you are using the right nutplate? It's easy to confuse
some of these part numbers.
Kent Ogden
>>> Michael D Chase 6/18/2009 7:20 AM >>>
Guys,
OK this may be a bit late to ask this question but I took a bit of time off
from my wings and seem to have forgotten how to do rivet plates.
When I attempt to rivet the plate on I am having issues with a gap between
the surface and plate due to rocking on the dimple put in for the screw down
the middle. Trying to get in there with a pair of needle nose pliers to
hold everything tight is a bit more then I can do with 2 hands:-)
Thanks
Michael Chase
Sr. Manager Supplier Quality
General Dynamics Armament and Technical Products, Inc
128 Lakeside Ave
Burlington, VT 05401
802.657.6029 Office
802.922.5930 Cell
802.657.6715
mchase(at)gdatp.com
This e-mail message (including attachments, if any) is for the sole use of
the intended recipient(s) and may contain information that is private,
confidential, or exempt from disclosure. Any unauthorized review, use,
copying, printing, disclosure, retention, or distribution is strictly
prohibited. If you are not the intended recipient, please contact the
sender by reply to this e-mail, and delete all copies without disclosing
this message to others. Thank you.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
It's actually K1000 series for flush and K1100 series dimpled skins, the
suffix is the screw/bolt size. More than once when building I just
glanced at the plans, misread, and grabbed a 1000 when I should have
grabbed an 1100.
Bob
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kent Ogden
Sent: Thursday, June 18, 2009 7:31 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Rivet Plates
Michael,
If I recall some of the numbers, there is for example a K1100-6 and a
K1100-06 nutplate for #6 screws, one is for dimpled skins, the other is
flush. Are you sure you are using the right nutplate? It's easy to
confuse some of these part numbers.
Kent Ogden
>>> Michael D Chase 6/18/2009 7:20 AM >>>
Guys,
OK this may be a bit late to ask this question but I took a bit of time
off from my wings and seem to have forgotten how to do rivet plates.
When I attempt to rivet the plate on I am having issues with a gap
between the surface and plate due to rocking on the dimple put in for
the screw down the middle. Trying to get in there with a pair of needle
nose pliers to hold everything tight is a bit more then I can do with 2
hands:-)
Thanks
Michael Chase
Sr. Manager Supplier Quality
General Dynamics Armament and Technical Products, Inc
128 Lakeside Ave
Burlington, VT 05401
802.657.6029 Office
802.922.5930 Cell
802.657.6715
mchase(at)gdatp.com
This e-mail message (including attachments, if any) is for the sole use
of the intended recipient(s) and may contain information that is
private, confidential, or exempt from disclosure. Any unauthorized
review, use, copying, printing, disclosure, retention, or distribution
is strictly prohibited. If you are not the intended recipient, please
contact the sender by reply to this e-mail, and delete all copies
without disclosing this message to others. Thank you.
~=03=0F'k{w/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)roadrunner.com> |
There is also a nutplate that has dimpled holes for the attaching rivets.
You can dimple those holes yourself however. I don't know the part no.
Albert Gardner
Yuma, AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rear baggage wall access panel |
| From: | "nukeflyboy" <flymoore(at)charter.net> |
Listen carefully to what Tim and Grumpy are saying. I'll be more blunt. The baggage
bulkhead IS a structural component and is necessary for asymmetrical HS
loading/twisting moments. (Sound familiar? Check the tail SB). That is the reason
for the corrugations and all of the screws. It must not be compromised
for ease of access. I do not like what I see in the photos.
--------
Dave Moore
RV-6 flying
RV-10 QB - cabin top/fiberglass hell
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=248930#248930
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: N246RS Airworthy |
| From: | "nukeflyboy" <flymoore(at)charter.net> |
Congratulations Rick! My RV-6 took 8 years and 3 months so I can relate with the
experience. It shows good judgment to have an experienced pilot do the first
flight. That means you are a safe pilot and I'd fly with you any day.
--------
Dave Moore
RV-6 flying
RV-10 QB - cabin top/fiberglass hell
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=248932#248932
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: N246RS Airworthy |
| From: | "nukeflyboy" <flymoore(at)charter.net> |
Congratulations Rick! My RV-6 took 8 years and 3 months so I can relate with the
experience. It shows good judgment to have an experienced pilot do the first
flight. That means you are a safe pilot and I'd fly with you any day.
--------
Dave Moore
RV-6 flying
RV-10 QB - cabin top/fiberglass hell
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=248933#248933
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: N246RS Airworthy |
| From: | "nukeflyboy" <flymoore(at)charter.net> |
Congratulations Rick! My RV-6 took 8 years and 3 months so I can relate with the
experience. It shows good judgment to have an experienced pilot do the first
flight. That means you are a safe pilot and I'd fly with you any day.
--------
Dave Moore
RV-6 flying
RV-10 QB - cabin top/fiberglass hell
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=248934#248934
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rivet Plates |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
Just to summarize:
If the hole for the screw is dimpled, you need K1100-xxx series. If the screw
hole is not dimpled, you need K1000-xxx series.
If the nutplate attaching rivets are in a dimpled skin, you will need to dimple
the attaching holes in the nutplate. Most dimple dies will hit the center, threaded
portion of the nutplate. You'll need to grind down the female die slightly,
or build a jig (which is what I did) to avoid damaging the center, threaded
part.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=248935#248935
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <karolamy(at)roadrunner.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rear baggage wall access panel |
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Rear baggage wall access panel
Actually, I've heard many times that it is a structural wall,
and that you can't fly without it, and if you alter the back
wall you want to make sure it's sufficiently beefed up to
give it back it's structural-ness. So, if you cut into it,
just plan ahead to make sure you do all you need to make it
just as strong again. Contacting Vans on that one wouldn't
be a bad idea.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
Yes, Vans will more than discourage any modification of the rear baggage
bulkhead. However, looking at the pictures of Deems and Waynes door, I
think if you were to use #4 rivets along the supporting frame not #3's, AND
used the same hinge program at the bottom but used ( 9 qty.) #8 nutplates
and screws - 3, on each side as well as 3 along the top, your strength would
be there. Yes, you still have 9 screws to remove (with a screw gun this is
only minutes) but still way less than the 25 - 30 it takes to remove the
entire bulkhead.
Which now leads to the next question of if this modified portion of the
bulkhead is now stronger than the other side of the bulkhead how does that
effect the integrity of the part as designed? Just a question to ponder -
no replys needed....
Rich Hansen
10 - Finishing kit
RV-6A, 1000 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Lewis <timrvator(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | IO540 Operators Manual |
Rob,
Can I get a copy, too? I've not had any luck finding it on Tim's site.
Thanks,
Tim Lewis
--
Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA)
RV-6A N47TD -- 1000 hrs
RV-10 #40059 under construction
Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrote:
>
> Coming to you offline!
>
>
>
> Bob
>
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *gary
> *Sent:* Monday, June 15, 2009 11:36 AM
> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> *Subject:* RV10-List: IO540 Operators Manual
>
>
>
> Does anyone have or know where to get an electronic copy of the
> operators manual?
>
>
>
> Gary Specketer
>
> N204GS Flying
>
> * *
> * *
> **
> **
> **
> *http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List*
> **
> **
> *http://forums.matronics.com*
> **
> **
> *http://www.matronics.com/contribution*
> * *
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)roadrunner.com> |
| Subject: | Rear baggage wall access panel |
An outfit called Microfasteners.com makes a Torx equivalent flat and round
head screw. I have used these and like the fact that you don't have to push
like you do on Phillips screws. Better make sure you carry some Torx
wrenches with your emergency maint kit if you use them however. (They call
them 6 lobe screws and avoid the Torx name.)
Albert Gardner
Yuma, AZ
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David McNeill
check http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/hapages/nas1096.php
Also I used CS with an internal hex head for the last two screws on the
forward tunnel edge. Wrong CS angle but certainly easier to use, an allen
wrench removes rather the pressure on a Phillips head.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Airflow Performance Injector Matching |
| From: | "Susan" <jim(at)CombsFive.Com> |
I have an IO-540-C4B5 engine with Airflow Performance injectors.
I have followed their process for matching the fuel flow.
Attached are the numbers before and after.
Before:
Cylinder #2 was leaning first (12.8 Gal / Hr), Cylinders #1 and #4 were
leaning last (12.2 Gal / Hr).
Airflow looked a the data and
recommended changing the #2 cylinder from 0.028 to 0.0285 and Cylinders #1
and #4 from 0.028 to 0.027.
After: The cylinders are
pretty much grouped at 12.35 - 12.15 Gal / Hr range.
Cost was
$25 per cylinder for inserts. (My cost was about $85 with
shipping)
Jim Combs
N312F - Flying (75 hours)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wayne Edgerton" <wayne.e(at)grandecom.net> |
| Subject: | Starter replacement |
I don't know if any of you had the problem that I had with the starter
or not. We installed the engine in 2005 with a Sky-Tec High Torque HT
starter, which supposedly was the best one they had back then. Anyway,
whenever I would do a cold start of the engine the prop would make about
a half revolution and stop, like it didn't have enough power to it. I
would then try again and it would turn fine.
Another RV friend of mine on my field told me about a new starter that
Sky-Tec came out with that took less volts and turned the prop slower.
It's a High Torque in Line NL. This friend was having the same problem
with his 7, which has high compression pistons. We both switched to this
new NL starter and it solved our problem. The new starter weighed a
little bit more than my old one, something like a pound. I live in TX,
so cold isn't a problem but I fly up into the cold country and was
worried I wasn't going to get started on some cold day.
Sky-Tec are really good people located right here near me in Granbury,
TX and they took my old starter in on trade against the new one and it
cost me $250 to upgrade. I thought that was a pretty good deal.
Anyway I just thought I would pass this along in case any of you are
experiencing the same problem as I had.
Wayne Edgerton
N602WT
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Starter replacement |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
The NL is a good choice. Just be aware if you have any mag/ignition
issue that could cause a kickback, the NL starter has a shear pin to
protect the starter. Unfortunately, you have to remove the starter
from the engine to change the shear pin.
Another good choice is the Kelly Aerospace E-drive starter.
Advantages...uses clutch to protect against kickback, lower current
draw than Skytec. Both are high torque. Priced within $10 of each
other. Same warranty. Within 0.1lbs of each other. I've heard good
reports on both. I have a Skytec Flyweight on my aircraft, because it
was on it when I bought the plane. Has same issues you mention, has
needed 2 rebuilds in less than 800 hours.
On Fri, Jun 19, 2009 at 6:52 AM, Wayne Edgerton wrote:
> I don't know if any of you had the problem that I had with the starter or
> not. We installed the engine in 2005 with a Sky-Tec High Torque HT starter,
> which supposedly was the best one they had back then. Anyway, whenever I
> would do a cold start of the enginethe prop would make about a half
> revolution and stop, like it didn't have enough power to it. I would then
> try again and it would turn fine.
>
> Another RV friend of mine on my field told me about a new starter that
> Sky-Tec came out with that took less volts and turned the prop slower. It's
> a High Torque in Line NL. This friend was having the same problem with his
> 7, which has high compression pistons. We both switched to this new NL
> starter and it solved our problem. The new starter weighed a little bit more
> than my old one, something like a pound. I live in TX, so cold isn't a
> problem but I fly up into the cold country and was worried I wasn't going to
> get started on some cold day.
>
> Sky-Tec are really good people located right here near me in Granbury, TX
> and they took my old starter in on trade against the new one and it cost me
> $250 to upgrade. I thought that was a pretty good deal.
>
> Anyway I just thought I would pass this along in case any of you are
> experiencing the same problem as I had.
>
> Wayne Edgerton
> N602WT
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Jessen" <n212pj(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | 2009 NW RV-10 Builders and Flyers Spring BBQ Pictures now available |
Pictures now available of the 2009 NW RV-10 Builders & Flyers BBQ held at
Lenhardt's Airpark in Oregon.
We had fine weather and around 60 participants, according to one count.
Four RV-10's flew in, each of which was displayed nicely on the cover of the
latest EAA-105 newsletter. A complete set of pictures can be found at
www.jessen-rv10.com. Click on NW RV-10 Dinners in the top menu. Scroll
down until you get to the 2009 Spring picture, then click on that.
The four RV-10's that flew to the BBQ included Randy Debauw, Bruce Radke,
Norm Rainey, and Tim James. Rob Hickman's was in the shop being painted.
Bruce and Becky Breckenridge had their completed empcone and wings out for
examination and critique, as well as a demo of Jeff Bordelon's LED nav
lights (http://www.jeffsrv-7a.com/LEDPROJECT1.htm). Paul Grimstad had his
rudder pedals on display. Beautiful and affordable!
Jerry VanGrunsven was ask to do yeoman's service, leading this meeting's
discussion, the topic of which was the flying characteristics of the RV-10,
including what to think about prior to first flight. Current 10 flyers
joined in during the Q&A. The conclusion? Definitely get some time in the
left seat before your first flight. But don't be intimidated. The plane is
stable and has great handling characteristics. It definitely has power and
speed, so get the training if all you've flow recently is a 172. Learn how
to stay ahead of the plane and you'll be fine. Included in the discussion
was an update on the flying characteristics of the new Hartzell 3-blade
composite prop, which is being test flown by Rob.
The "fall" NW RV-10 Builders and Flyers dinner will be held on Friday,
August 28th, which is the evening before the RV Homecoming. Bob Brown and
Norm Rainey will be our hosts. This will be at Independence, OR (7S5). We
expect a good RV-10 showing. Let me know if you plan to attend so Bob and
Norm can have a good count for planning purposes.
See you then!
John Jessen
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Bonaco Fuel lines - selector to wing |
| From: | "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> |
Have you ever had a duhhhhh moment. Well I did today after receiving my Bonaco
fuel lines.
I cannot believe that I spent as much time as I did messing around with the Vans
aluminum fuel lines. I have no doubt that I have over 15 hours invested in those
aluminum lines that are now residing in the trash can. The 42" Bonaco lines
are a tad short if you run them exactly as Vans has it in the plans.
I drilled a new 1" hole in the tunnel wall creating a more direct route, and
they fit fine. The fit is fast and I have no doubt the they are much safer than
the hard aluminum lines. The lines are very well made and the SS web is even
covered with a thick plastic abrasion covering. For newbies getting into the
tunnel area save hours of work and just order up these lines. Faster - safer
- better. If you have any questions, e-mail me on this web site or call Brett
at Bonaco.
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
Q/B Kit - FWF end game
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=249191#249191
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Bonaco Fuel lines - selector to wing |
| From: | pilotdds(at)aol.com |
I have replaced the lines to the fuel filter with the bonoco lines,Brett is great
to work with and maintanance of the filter is easier.-Jim 728DD
-----Original Message-----
From: AirMike <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net>
Sent: Fri, Jun 19, 2009 10:41 pm
Subject: RV10-List: Bonaco Fuel lines - selector to wing
Have you ever had a duhhhhh moment. Well I did today after receiving my Bonaco
fuel lines.
I cannot believe that I spent as much time as I did messing around with the Vans
aluminum fuel lines. I have no doubt that I have over 15 hours invested in those
aluminum lines that are now residing in the trash can. The 42" Bonaco lines are
a tad short if you run them exactly as Vans has it in the plans.
I drilled a new 1" hole in the tunnel wall creating a more direct route, and
they fit fine. The fit is fast and I have no doubt the they are much safer than
the hard aluminum lines. The lines are very well made and the SS web is even
covered with a thick plastic abrasion covering. For newbies getting into the
tunnel area save hours of work and just order up these lines. Faster - safer -
better. If you have any questions, e-mail me on this web site or call Brett at
Bonaco.
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
Q/B Kit - FWF end game
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=249191#249191
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Bonaco Fuel lines - selector to wing |
| From: | William Curtis <wwc4(at)njit.edu> |
As long as you remember that flexible lines require periodic
replacement-every 5 years or so, hard lines do not. Faster--yes,
safer--no, better-- that is a matters of opinion.
Not sure why it took 15 hours to do the brake lines. If I remember I think
I did mine early on (right after Chapter 28) when the fuselage was still
opened up. Took about 2 hours. This may be better advice than going with
more expensive flexible lines that require periodic maintenance. YMMV.
William
http://nerv10.com/
On Sat, Jun 20, 2009 at 1:41 AM, AirMike wrote:
>
> Have you ever had a duhhhhh moment. Well I did today after receiving my
> Bonaco fuel lines.
>
> I cannot believe that I spent as much time as I did messing around with the
> Vans aluminum fuel lines. I have no doubt that I have over 15 hours invested
> in those aluminum lines that are now residing in the trash can. The 42"
> Bonaco lines are a tad short if you run them exactly as Vans has it in the
> plans.
>
> I drilled a new 1" hole in the tunnel wall creating a more direct route,
> and they fit fine. The fit is fast and I have no doubt the they are much
> safer than the hard aluminum lines. The lines are very well made and the SS
> web is even covered with a thick plastic abrasion covering. For newbies
> getting into the tunnel area save hours of work and just order up these
> lines. Faster - safer - better. If you have any questions, e-mail me on this
> web site or call Brett at Bonaco.
>
> --------
> OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
> Q/B Kit - FWF end game
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=249191#249191
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Bonaco Fuel lines - selector to wing |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
Flexible lines lifetime depends on both the material they are constructed
from and their environment. Engine hoses of convention rubber core with
steel braiding are very life limited because of the engine heat and
vibration. The same hose used for a brake line or wing to fuel selector line
will have more like triple the engine hose life. Teflon core hoses have no
life limit, just condition. Hard or flexible depends on the need to flex and
the difficulty of installation. Hard aluminum lines that flex regularly will
not last. So, it all depends.
On Sat, Jun 20, 2009 at 6:50 AM, William Curtis wrote:
> As long as you remember that flexible lines require periodic
> replacement-every 5 years or so, hard lines do not. Faster--yes,
> safer--no, better-- that is a matters of opinion.
>
> Not sure why it took 15 hours to do the brake lines. If I remember I think
> I did mine early on (right after Chapter 28) when the fuselage was still
> opened up. Took about 2 hours. This may be better advice than going with
> more expensive flexible lines that require periodic maintenance. YMMV.
>
> William
> http://nerv10.com/
>
> On Sat, Jun 20, 2009 at 1:41 AM, AirMike wrote:
>
>>
>> Have you ever had a duhhhhh moment. Well I did today after receiving my
>> Bonaco fuel lines.
>>
>> I cannot believe that I spent as much time as I did messing around with
>> the Vans aluminum fuel lines. I have no doubt that I have over 15 hours
>> invested in those aluminum lines that are now residing in the trash can. The
>> 42" Bonaco lines are a tad short if you run them exactly as Vans has it in
>> the plans.
>>
>> I drilled a new 1" hole in the tunnel wall creating a more direct
>> route, and they fit fine. The fit is fast and I have no doubt the they are
>> much safer than the hard aluminum lines. The lines are very well made and
>> the SS web is even covered with a thick plastic abrasion covering. For
>> newbies getting into the tunnel area save hours of work and just order up
>> these lines. Faster - safer - better. If you have any questions, e-mail me
>> on this web site or call Brett at Bonaco.
>>
>> --------
>> OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
>> Q/B Kit - FWF end game
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=249191#249191
>>
>> *
>
>
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Bonaco Fuel lines - selector to wing |
| From: | "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> |
Amen Tim.......... especially on the stress cracking. Those lines have more bends
than a pot of elbow macaroni. If you check those bends out with a magnifier
they are pretty ugly.
If I was going hard lines, I would put a 90 degree fitting where the lines exit
the tunnel. Rah-Rah Bonaco :D :D :D :D
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there someday
Q/B Kit - FWF end game
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=249318#249318
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Elevator travel vs. stick grip clearance |
| From: | "Walt Fuller" <w_fuller1(at)verizon.net> |
Hello all,
My name is Walt Fuller and I am a new member of this forum. My father
(capt. delta retired, 757-767 ) and I are currently in the final year of construction
of one of Van's RV 10 homebuilts. My father opted
to install modified sick grips complete with trim controls, autopilot, com
buttons. The specs call for 30 degrees of up elevator and 25 degrees down. We "zeroed"
the calibration tool and found that the 30 degree up elevator was right
on the money. However, the stick grips bottomed out on the instrument panel
when full forward stick was applied, with only about 20 degrees of down elevator.
With the airflow controls pulled fully out ( alternate air, etc.), we got
less than 18 degrees of down elevator!
We attempted to make some adjustments to the eye bolts between the
torque tubes and gained some down elevator but lost the up elevator.
Even with the stick grips off, the sticks still hit the airflow controls before
the 25 degree down was reached. I think our only option is to cut the sticks down
to allow the top of the grips to pass under the panel. Has anyone else run
into this scenario and is there an adjustment that can be made? Thank you for
your response.
p.s. We built, flew, and sold one of Van's rv 4's back in the late '80's - early
'90's ...N52FK A very fun airplane!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=249364#249364
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Cabin hinge bolt clearnce |
I am putting the doors on the fuselage and find that the head of the bolts
that are cut off to make pins for the hinge are too close to the side and
maintain the 1/8" clearance . Has anyone else had this problem? I am
thinking 1) shaving the head of the pin (bolt) to maintain the 1/8" clearance,
2)
move the hinges laterally slightly for a small offset or 3) shave part of
the fiberglass to make room for the head of the bolt.
Dave Syvertson
40625
Finishing Kit
**************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy
steps!
JunestepsfooterNO62)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Elevator travel vs. stick grip clearance |
| From: | Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com> |
I initially used the stock panel and bracket for the engine controls with
Van's wood grips. I could not get full travel on the left stick without
hitting the alt air knob. So I moved the bracket to the right about 1", and
found then that the right stick would actually get caught on the left side
of the prop control. The wood grips are as low as possible.
I finally installed the throttle quadrant, which is quite a bit narrower,
and that solved everything.
Dave
On Sun, Jun 21, 2009 at 11:03 AM, Walt Fuller wrote:
>
> Hello all,
> My name is Walt Fuller and I am a new member of this forum. My
> father (capt. delta retired, 757-767 ) and I are currently in the final year
> of construction of one of Van's RV 10 homebuilts. My father opted
> to install modified sick grips complete with trim controls, autopilot, com
> buttons. The specs call for 30 degrees of up elevator and 25 degrees down.
> We "zeroed" the calibration tool and found that the 30 degree up elevator
> was right on the money. However, the stick grips bottomed out on the
> instrument panel when full forward stick was applied, with only about 20
> degrees of down elevator. With the airflow controls pulled fully out (
> alternate air, etc.), we got less than 18 degrees of down elevator!
> We attempted to make some adjustments to the eye bolts between the
> torque tubes and gained some down elevator but lost the up elevator.
> Even with the stick grips off, the sticks still hit the airflow controls
> before
> the 25 degree down was reached. I think our only option is to cut the
> sticks down to allow the top of the grips to pass under the panel. Has
> anyone else run into this scenario and is there an adjustment that can be
> made? Thank you for your response.
> p.s. We built, flew, and sold one of Van's rv 4's back in the late '80's -
> early '90's ...N52FK A very fun airplane!
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=249364#249364
>
>
--
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA 95076
831-722-9141 Shop
831-750-0284 Cell
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Elevator travel vs. stick grip clearance |
| From: | "Robin Marks" <robin1(at)mrmoisture.com> |
Walt Welcome to the forum and good luck with your final year of
building.
This is a common issue and our solution after adding large head infinity
grips and a custom panel was to bend both sticks in a press to add a
touch more curvature. This was surprisingly simple and we were able to
completely clear all obstructions w/o changing the feel of the control
in ones hand. The one downside is our stick turned completely blue.
Robin
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | window fitting - gap between flange and plexi |
| From: | Rob Kochman <rv10rob(at)gmail.com> |
I trimmed one of the rear windows to fit. It looks great on the outside,
but on the inside there's a considerable gap (maybe 1/16") between the plexi
and the window flange in places. Is this okay? Does the weld-on fill this
gap, or am I doing something wrong?
Thanks...
-Rob
--
Rob Kochman
RV-10 Wings
Woodinville, WA (near Seattle)
http://kochman.net/N819K
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Les Kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Cabin hinge bolt clearance |
Dave
I had the same issue. I just used my Dremel to make enough clearance for the
bolt and to allow enough movement to get the right alignment.
The amount of f/g removed was very little.
Cheers
Les
#40643
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dsyvert(at)aol.com
Sent: June-21-09 12:38 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Cabin hinge bolt clearnce
I am putting the doors on the fuselage and find that the head of the bolts
that are cut off to make pins for the hinge are too close to the side and
maintain the 1/8" clearance . Has anyone else had this problem? I am
thinking 1) shaving the head of the pin (bolt) to maintain the 1/8"
clearance, 2) move the hinges laterally slightly for a small offset or 3)
shave part of the fiberglass to make room for the head of the bolt.
Dave Syvertson
40625
Finishing Kit
_____
A Good Credit
Score3000x1201367220/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.as
px?sc=668072%26hmpgID=62%26bcd=JunestepsfooterNO62>See yours in just 2 easy
steps!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "lbgjb10" <lbgjb(at)gnt.net> |
Not blessed with A/C--it's hot and sweaty flying in Florida. Love the leather
sets, but has anyone found a material that one can temp. cover the leather to
prevent hot sweaty pilots form soaking the leather!!!! hot and toasty larry
--------
Larry and Gayle N104LG
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=249411#249411
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Starter replacement |
| From: | "McGann, Ron" <Ron.McGann(at)thalesgroup.com.au> |
For those flying, I would be keen to know how many more issues of
insufficient starter torque have been reported. I regularly need to
hold the starter engaged for several seconds before the engine is pushed
through compression (when the engine is cold). I was about to relace
the concorde battery with an odyssey, but perhaps I need a higher torque
starter??
Cheers
Ron
VH-XRM
Flying in Oz
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Wayne
Edgerton
Sent: Friday, 19 June 2009 11:52 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Starter replacement
I don't know if any of you had the problem that I had with the starter
or not. We installed the engine in 2005 with a Sky-Tec High Torque HT
starter, which supposedly was the best one they had back then. Anyway,
whenever I would do a cold start of the engine the prop would make about
a half revolution and stop, like it didn't have enough power to it. I
would then try again and it would turn fine.
Another RV friend of mine on my field told me about a new starter that
Sky-Tec came out with that took less volts and turned the prop slower.
It's a High Torque in Line NL. This friend was having the same problem
with his 7, which has high compression pistons. We both switched to this
new NL starter and it solved our problem. The new starter weighed a
little bit more than my old one, something like a pound. I live in TX,
so cold isn't a problem but I fly up into the cold country and was
worried I wasn't going to get started on some cold day.
Sky-Tec are really good people located right here near me in Granbury,
TX and they took my old starter in on trade against the new one and it
cost me $250 to upgrade. I thought that was a pretty good deal.
Anyway I just thought I would pass this along in case any of you are
experiencing the same problem as I had.
Wayne Edgerton
N602WT
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--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Starter replacement |
You need to use the Skytec troubleshooting chart to determine if you are
getting sufficient voltage to the starter. Flyweight starters such as
the Skytec PM series have the highest current draw and least amount of
starting torque.
McGann, Ron wrote:
>
> For those flying, I would be keen to know how many more issues of
> insufficient starter torque have been reported. I regularly need to
> hold the starter engaged for several seconds before the engine is pushed
> through compression (when the engine is cold). I was about to relace
> the concorde battery with an odyssey, but perhaps I need a higher torque
> starter??
>
> Cheers
> Ron
> VH-XRM
> Flying in Oz
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Wayne
> Edgerton
> Sent: Friday, 19 June 2009 11:52 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Starter replacement
>
> I don't know if any of you had the problem that I had with the starter
> or not. We installed the engine in 2005 with a Sky-Tec High Torque HT
> starter, which supposedly was the best one they had back then. Anyway,
> whenever I would do a cold start of the engine the prop would make about
> a half revolution and stop, like it didn't have enough power to it. I
> would then try again and it would turn fine.
>
> Another RV friend of mine on my field told me about a new starter that
> Sky-Tec came out with that took less volts and turned the prop slower.
> It's a High Torque in Line NL. This friend was having the same problem
> with his 7, which has high compression pistons. We both switched to this
> new NL starter and it solved our problem. The new starter weighed a
> little bit more than my old one, something like a pound. I live in TX,
> so cold isn't a problem but I fly up into the cold country and was
> worried I wasn't going to get started on some cold day.
>
> Sky-Tec are really good people located right here near me in Granbury,
> TX and they took my old starter in on trade against the new one and it
> cost me $250 to upgrade. I thought that was a pretty good deal.
>
> Anyway I just thought I would pass this along in case any of you are
> experiencing the same problem as I had.
>
> Wayne Edgerton
> N602WT
>
>
>
> DISCLAIMER:---------------------------------------------------------------------------
> This e-mail transmission and any documents, files and previous e-mail messages
> attached to it are private and confidential. They may contain proprietary or
copyright
> material or information that is subject to legal professional privilege. They
are for
> the use of the intended recipient only. Any unauthorised viewing, use, disclosure,
> copying, alteration, storage or distribution of, or reliance on, this message
is
> strictly prohibited. No part may be reproduced, adapted or transmitted without
the
> written permission of the owner. If you have received this transmission in error,
or
> are not an authorised recipient, please immediately notify the sender by return
email,
> delete this message and all copies from your e-mail system, and destroy any printed
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> error or virus free.
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
The Bonanza/Baron drivers have been using sheepskin covers for this
purpose for years.
Deems Davis N519PJ
http://deemsrv10.com/
lbgjb10 wrote:
>
> Not blessed with A/C--it's hot and sweaty flying in Florida. Love the leather
sets, but has anyone found a material that one can temp. cover the leather to
prevent hot sweaty pilots form soaking the leather!!!! hot and toasty larry
>
> --------
> Larry and Gayle N104LG
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=249411#249411
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "McGann, Ron" <Ron.McGann(at)thalesgroup.com.au> |
I recently left my old job on the Airborne Early Warning & Control
project here in Australia. This is a shot of the gift from some of my
buddies on the project. Gotta love it! BTW the -10 was finished long
before AEW&C will be (and no, my 30mm cannon were not loaded at the
time) :-)
Cheers
Ron
VH-XRM
Flying in Oz
DISCLAIMER:----------------------------------------------------------------
-----------
This e-mail transmission and any documents, files and previous e-mail messa
ges
attached to it are private and confidential. They may contain proprietary o
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ey are for
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closure,
copying, alteration, storage or distribution of, or reliance on, this messa
ge is
strictly prohibited. No part may be reproduced, adapted or transmitted with
out the
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turn email,
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Bonaco Fuel lines - selector to wing |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
"If I was going hard lines, I would put a 90 degree fitting where the lines exit
the tunnel."
In point of fact, that is exactly how the newer -10's are now being built. Vans
upgraded the whole fuel selector valve arrangement, and plumbing, a bit.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=249423#249423
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Starter replacement |
I think the problem may be current flow; I have the certified engine and
Lycoming supplied Skytec starter? I found that the single Odyssey 680 would
start the engine when new and fully charged. Since I fly a lot of short (in
AZ) flights I find that the battery does not get fully recharged between
starts. Fortunately I have two 680s that can be set in parallel and provide
about 1000A to get the starter motor turning the engine. I have a third 680
on the firewall that is strictly a backup avionics battery and aids in the
weight and balance problem if fully loaded. If I were designing again I
might consider an Odyssey 925 or 1200 for the rear battery and the 680 on
the firewall for avionics backup and W&B. As it is I have the equivalent of
the Odyssey 1200 power coming from two separate batteries.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of McGann, Ron
Sent: Sunday, June 21, 2009 3:58 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Starter replacement
-->
For those flying, I would be keen to know how many more issues of
insufficient starter torque have been reported. I regularly need to hold
the starter engaged for several seconds before the engine is pushed through
compression (when the engine is cold). I was about to relace the concorde
battery with an odyssey, but perhaps I need a higher torque starter??
Cheers
Ron
VH-XRM
Flying in Oz
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Wayne Edgerton
Sent: Friday, 19 June 2009 11:52 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Starter replacement
I don't know if any of you had the problem that I had with the starter or
not. We installed the engine in 2005 with a Sky-Tec High Torque HT starter,
which supposedly was the best one they had back then. Anyway, whenever I
would do a cold start of the engine the prop would make about a half
revolution and stop, like it didn't have enough power to it. I would then
try again and it would turn fine.
Another RV friend of mine on my field told me about a new starter that
Sky-Tec came out with that took less volts and turned the prop slower.
It's a High Torque in Line NL. This friend was having the same problem with
his 7, which has high compression pistons. We both switched to this new NL
starter and it solved our problem. The new starter weighed a little bit more
than my old one, something like a pound. I live in TX, so cold isn't a
problem but I fly up into the cold country and was worried I wasn't going to
get started on some cold day.
Sky-Tec are really good people located right here near me in Granbury, TX
and they took my old starter in on trade against the new one and it cost me
$250 to upgrade. I thought that was a pretty good deal.
Anyway I just thought I would pass this along in case any of you are
experiencing the same problem as I had.
Wayne Edgerton
N602WT
DISCLAIMER:-----------------------------------------------------------------
----------
This e-mail transmission and any documents, files and previous e-mail
messages attached to it are private and confidential. They may contain
proprietary or copyright material or information that is subject to legal
professional privilege. They are for the use of the intended recipient only.
Any unauthorised viewing, use, disclosure, copying, alteration, storage or
distribution of, or reliance on, this message is strictly prohibited. No
part may be reproduced, adapted or transmitted without the written
permission of the owner. If you have received this transmission in error, or
are not an authorised recipient, please immediately notify the sender by
return email, delete this message and all copies from your e-mail system,
and destroy any printed copies. Receipt by anyone other than the intended
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Thales Australia does not warrant or represent that this e-mail or any
documents, files and previous e-mail messages attached are error or virus
free.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
----------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
While sheepskin works, a terry towel cloth cover is just as effective for a
lot less change.
On Sun, Jun 21, 2009 at 4:10 PM, Deems Davis wrote:
>
> The Bonanza/Baron drivers have been using sheepskin covers for this purpose
> for years.
>
> Deems Davis N519PJ
> http://deemsrv10.com/
>
>
> lbgjb10 wrote:
>
>>
>> Not blessed with A/C--it's hot and sweaty flying in Florida. Love the
>> leather sets, but has anyone found a material that one can temp. cover the
>> leather to prevent hot sweaty pilots form soaking the leather!!!! hot and
>> toasty larry
>>
>> --------
>> Larry and Gayle N104LG
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=249411#249411
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: window fitting - gap between flange and plexi |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
I believe the instructions say it's okay to shim this area with washers.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=249426#249426
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: window fitting - gap between flange and plexi |
| From: | "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall(at)charter.net> |
Hey Rob,
You can try grinding the high spots on the fiberglass lip to seat the window better,
but don't go too thin. You can also grind the inner surface of the plexi
to make a better fit, but if the outer surface is flush with the canopy, I wouldn't
worry about it too much. The Weld-on is tough stuff.
When I used Weld-on on the windows, I put a layer on the fiberglass flange and
on the window to ensure a good bond all around. You have to be pretty quick to
do this in warm weather as it sets up quickly (it will set up faster in the
cup than spread on the surface), but that also prevents runs. Even if you have
a tiny gap or two, the fiberglass layer I put over the plexi/fiberglass joint
on the outside seals it.
Fun, huh? Later, - Lew
--------
non-pilot
crazy about building
NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
Painting when it's 60+ degrees!
Piddling with wiring and avionics.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=249427#249427
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Ackerman <johnag5b(at)cableone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: window fitting - gap between flange and plexi |
Gaps like yours make the Weld-On work really miserable, especially on
a vertical surface. Enough glue to fill the gap will run like crazy
and then the gap is not filled. I had to cut my starboard rear window
out with a router and start over with a new one.
I covered the new window with packing tape and wax near the frame,
determined the proper number of washers/shims to set it out almost
flush with the fiberglass ' very slightly (< 1/32") recessed. I then
filled between the window and the frame with very thick West System
epoxy using cabosil and high density filler from West system. I held
the windows in place with clecoes and bent tabs.
When the epoxy had mostly set, I removed the windows, let the epoxy
cure overnight, and cleaned up the mess. This effectively make a good-
fitting casting that required only a thin and consistent layer of Weld-
On. This procedure was much easier than trying to do it with just Weld-
On. It came out nice and was easy to blend to the fiberglass.
Good luck!
John Ackerman 40458
On Jun 21, 2009, at 3:24 PM, Rob Kochman wrote:
> I trimmed one of the rear windows to fit. It looks great on the
> outside, but on the inside there's a considerable gap (maybe 1/16")
> between the plexi and the window flange in places. Is this okay?
> Does the weld-on fill this gap, or am I doing something wrong?
>
> Thanks...
>
> -Rob
>
> --
> Rob Kochman
> RV-10 Wings
> Woodinville, WA (near Seattle)
> http://kochman.net/N819K
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Patrick Thyssen <jump2(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Starter replacement |
-I installed a rg35xc battery instead of the rg25xc for two reasons, one
starting, two for more reserve if alternator quits and after 70+- hrs the
alternator did quit, (Thanks Van). But never have a problem cranking even
with the efis and JPI on and they stay up and running during cranking. Also
have the NL starter.
Patrick Thyssen
N15PT
--- On Sun, 6/21/09, McGann, Ron wrote:
From: McGann, Ron <Ron.McGann(at)thalesgroup.com.au>
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Starter replacement
Date: Sunday, June 21, 2009, 5:58 PM
au>
For those flying, I would be keen to know how many more issues of
insufficient starter torque have been reported.- I regularly need to
hold the starter engaged for several seconds before the engine is pushed
through compression (when the engine is cold).- I was about to relace
the concorde battery with an odyssey, but perhaps I need a higher torque
starter??
Cheers
Ron
VH-XRM
Flying in Oz
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Wayne
Edgerton
Sent: Friday, 19 June 2009 11:52 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Starter replacement
I don't know if any of you had the problem that I had with the starter
or not. We installed the engine in 2005 with a Sky-Tec High Torque HT
starter, which supposedly was the best one they had back then. Anyway,
whenever I would do a cold start of the engine the prop would make about
a half revolution and stop, like it didn't have enough power to it. I
would then try again and it would turn fine.
Another RV friend of mine on my field told me about a new starter that
Sky-Tec came out with that took less volts and turned the prop slower.
It's a High Torque in Line NL. This friend was having the same problem
with his 7, which has high compression pistons. We both switched to this
new NL starter and it solved our problem. The new starter weighed a
little bit more than my old one, something like a pound. I live in TX,
so cold isn't a problem but I fly up into the cold country and was
worried I wasn't going to get started on some cold day.
Sky-Tec are really good people located right here near me in Granbury,
TX and they took my old starter in on trade against the new one and it
cost me $250 to upgrade. I thought that was a pretty good deal.
Anyway I just thought I would pass this along in case any of you are
experiencing the same problem as I had.
Wayne Edgerton
N602WT
DISCLAIMER:----------------------------------------------------------------
-----------
This e-mail transmission and any documents, files and previous e-mail messa
ges
attached to it are private and confidential. They may contain proprietary o
r copyright
material or information that is subject to legal professional privilege. Th
ey are for
the use of the intended recipient only.- Any unauthorised viewing, use, d
isclosure,
copying, alteration, storage or distribution of, or reliance on, this messa
ge is
strictly prohibited. No part may be reproduced, adapted or transmitted with
out the
written permission of the owner. If you have received this transmission in
error, or
are not an authorised recipient, please immediately notify the sender by re
turn email,
delete this message and all copies from your e-mail system, and destroy any
printed
copies. Receipt by anyone other than the intended recipient should not be d
eemed a
waiver of any privilege or protection. Thales Australia does not warrant or
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that this e-mail or any documents, files and previous e-mail messages attac
hed are
error or virus free.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----------
le, List Admin.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Elevator travel vs. stick grip clearance |
| From: | Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com> |
We inspect a lot of homebuilts that come in with some sort of issue with
control travel. It's not generally the easiest thing to fix.
Usually, the owners argue that you don't really need full control deflection
because if you used it, the result would be a pretty wild ride.
But the little blue line on your airspeed indicator (125 knots) is the
highest speed that the engineers came up with for being able to do exactly
that--full deflection, without structural damage. They must have had some
scenario in mind. Granted, it won't happen in blue sky cruise, but when
things go bad you want to know what your limitations are, and you want as
much in your favor as possible.
I think a more likely scenario is on take-off or landing, at much lower
speeds, when the controls aren't as effective. I was just reading a report
about an engine failure and subsequent long landing. The pilot used every
bit of skill and likely a lot of control deflection, to do what needed to be
done. Things got hairy after he had slowed quite a bit, but still had
aerodynamic control, and had to avoid some obstacles.
I always advise people to get as much control travel as allowable.
--
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA 95076
831-722-9141 Shop
831-750-0284 Cell
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com> |
(see my post about full deflection...;-)
And we worry about one or two external antennas!
Do Not Arcihve
>
> I recently left my old job on the Airborne Early Warning & Control project
> here in Australia. This is a shot of the gift from some of my buddies on
> the project. Gotta love it! BTW the -10 was finished long before AEW&C
> will be (and no, my 30mm cannon were not loaded at the time) J
>
>
> Cheers
>
> Ron
>
> VH-XRM
>
> Flying in Oz
> DISCLAIMER:---------------------------------------------------------------------------
> This e-mail transmission and any documents, files and previous e-mail
> messages attached to it are private and confidential. They may contain
> proprietary or copyright material or information that is subject to legal
> professional privilege. They are for the use of the intended recipient only.
> Any unauthorised viewing, use, disclosure, copying, alteration, storage or
> distribution of, or reliance on, this message is strictly prohibited. No
> part may be reproduced, adapted or transmitted without the written
> permission of the owner. If you have received this transmission in error, or
> are not an authorised recipient, please immediately notify the sender by
> return email, delete this message and all copies from your e-mail system,
> and destroy any printed copies. Receipt by anyone other than the intended
> recipient should not be deemed a waiver of any privilege or protection.
> Thales Australia does not warrant or represent that this e-mail or any
> documents, files and previous e-mail messages attached are error or virus
> free.
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
--
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA 95076
831-722-9141 Shop
831-750-0284 Cell
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Elevator travel vs. stick grip clearance |
| From: | ricksked(at)embarqmail.com |
SSBoYWQgdGhlIHNhbWUgaXNzdWUsIHlvdSBuZWVkIHRvIHNlZSB3aGF0IHRvICJlbGV2YXRvciIg
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bA0KDQo
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Elevator travel vs. stick grip clearance |
| From: | "Walt Fuller" <w_fuller1(at)verizon.net> |
Thank you All very much for the input...Robin1: We discussed bending the sticks
as well, but were concerned with inadvertently "crimping" the insulation which
covers the wires running through the stick...which was a real "Bear" to feed
through. After consideration, we temporarily installed the left seat and found
we too could rest the arm on the leg and comfortably touch the stick grip.
The decision was made to carefully cut the top of the sticks down as far as practical.
We used a pipe cutter, then a ban saw with a make-shift spacer to protect
the insulation. We now get full forward stick, only slightly touching the
pullout controls when they are full out.
Thank you all again! I really enjoy this forum...My father will most likely be
posting on here as well.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=249447#249447
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Bonaco Fuel lines - selector to wing |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
"45 degree blukhead fittings are used because the left tank has to be plumed to
the right side of the selector and vice versa. "
No, they're now 90 deg fittings, because Vans also changed the selector valve geometry,
so now left goes to left and right to right. A lot fewer, difficult bends.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=249449#249449
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fred Williams, M.D." <drfred(at)suddenlinkmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Starter replacement |
I also had to up the battery to a 35x. I also found out that I had not
enough ground between the engine and the frame. I initially had two
flexible braided cables from the back of the engine to the ears on the
motor mount. Ended up running a cable from the starter body itself back
to my common firewall ground, where the electricity gets to flow back to
the battery in a number 4 wire. It helped, but I still have a high
compression engine and it can be tough to turn by hand, let alone the
starter. That is one of the issues I plan to check on at Airventure.
Fred Williams
McGann, Ron wrote:
>
> For those flying, I would be keen to know how many more issues of
> insufficient starter torque have been reported. I regularly need to
> hold the starter engaged for several seconds before the engine is pushed
> through compression (when the engine is cold). I was about to relace
> the concorde battery with an odyssey, but perhaps I need a higher torque
> starter??
>
> Cheers
> Ron
> VH-XRM
> Flying in Oz
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Wayne
> Edgerton
> Sent: Friday, 19 June 2009 11:52 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Starter replacement
>
> I don't know if any of you had the problem that I had with the starter
> or not. We installed the engine in 2005 with a Sky-Tec High Torque HT
> starter, which supposedly was the best one they had back then. Anyway,
> whenever I would do a cold start of the engine the prop would make about
> a half revolution and stop, like it didn't have enough power to it. I
> would then try again and it would turn fine.
>
> Another RV friend of mine on my field told me about a new starter that
> Sky-Tec came out with that took less volts and turned the prop slower.
> It's a High Torque in Line NL. This friend was having the same problem
> with his 7, which has high compression pistons. We both switched to this
> new NL starter and it solved our problem. The new starter weighed a
> little bit more than my old one, something like a pound. I live in TX,
> so cold isn't a problem but I fly up into the cold country and was
> worried I wasn't going to get started on some cold day.
>
> Sky-Tec are really good people located right here near me in Granbury,
> TX and they took my old starter in on trade against the new one and it
> cost me $250 to upgrade. I thought that was a pretty good deal.
>
> Anyway I just thought I would pass this along in case any of you are
> experiencing the same problem as I had.
>
> Wayne Edgerton
> N602WT
>
>
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator travel vs. stick grip clearance |
I had been warned by others on the field that my DAR was a stickler for
control systems. And I made sure that there was no interference with the
grips in all extreme quadrants before the inspection. During the
inspection (Yes he checked all the extremes) We discussed this part of
the inspection, and he echoed the points that Dave relates. His view was
that if an emergency develops and you loose your engine and or you
prop, if you still have FULL control of your aircraft, you stand a
better chance of survival. Unexpected situations can and will develop
(runaway/stuck trim), when they do, we want the FULL CAPABILITIES OF THE
AIRCRAFT at our disposal, not just a portion of them.
Deems Davis
Dave Saylor wrote:
> We inspect a lot of homebuilts that come in with some sort of issue
> with control travel. It's not generally the easiest thing to fix.
>
> Usually, the owners argue that you don't really need full control
> deflection because if you used it, the result would be a pretty wild ride.
>
> But the little blue line on your airspeed indicator (125 knots) is the
> highest speed that the engineers came up with for being able to do
> exactly that--full deflection, without structural damage. They must
> have had some scenario in mind. Granted, it won't happen in blue sky
> cruise, but when things go bad you want to know what your limitations
> are, and you want as much in your favor as possible.
>
> I think a more likely scenario is on take-off or landing, at much
> lower speeds, when the controls aren't as effective. I was just
> reading a report about an engine failure and subsequent long landing.
> The pilot used every bit of skill and likely a lot of control
> deflection, to do what needed to be done. Things got hairy after he
> had slowed quite a bit, but still had aerodynamic control, and had to
> avoid some obstacles.
>
> I always advise people to get as much control travel as allowable.
> --
> Dave Saylor
> AirCrafters LLC
> 140 Aviation Way
> Watsonville, CA 95076
> 831-722-9141 Shop
> 831-750-0284 Cell
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wayne Edgerton" <wayne.e(at)grandecom.net> |
I had sheep skin in both my Bonanza and Baron, like Deems said below,
and it solved the problem for me. If you look at the Corporate jet
jockeys that's what many of them have also. There's a fellow on my field
that could make a set for anyone that wanted them. He did my interior
and does good work.
Wayne Edgerton N602WT
From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Hot weather
The Bonanza/Baron drivers have been using sheepskin covers for
this
purpose for years.
Deems Davis N519PJ
http://deemsrv10.com/
lbgjb10 wrote:
>
> Not blessed with A/C--it's hot and sweaty flying in Florida.
Love the leather
sets, but has anyone found a material that one can temp. cover the
leather to
prevent hot sweaty pilots form soaking the leather!!!! hot and
toasty larry
>
> --------
> Larry and Gayle N104LG
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=249411#249411
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wayne Edgerton" <wayne.e(at)grandecom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Starter replacementStarter replacement |
Someone pointed out to me that in my post I said volts when I should
have said amps. oops. Below are a few of the differences between the
Sky-Tec NL & the HT model that I took out. As you can see the NL
requires less amps, thus easier to make it turn over, and turns at a
slower RPM, however the NL weighs in at about 1 lb more.
Wayne Edgerton N602WT
NL Model
HT Model
Current 125-185A @ 11V, 140 RPM Test
185-285A @ 11V, 160 RPM Test
Gear Reduction 6.5:1
4.3:1
Weight 9.4 lbs.
8.5 lbs
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of McGann,
Ron
Sent: Sunday, June 21, 2009 3:58 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Starter replacement
-->
For those flying, I would be keen to know how many more issues of
insufficient starter torque have been reported. I regularly need
to hold
the starter engaged for several seconds before the engine is
pushed through
compression (when the engine is cold). I was about to relace the
concorde
battery with an odyssey, but perhaps I need a higher torque
starter??
Cheers
Ron
VH-XRM
Flying in Oz
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Wayne
Edgerton
Sent: Friday, 19 June 2009 11:52 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Starter replacement
I don't know if any of you had the problem that I had with the
starter or
not. We installed the engine in 2005 with a Sky-Tec High Torque HT
starter,
which supposedly was the best one they had back then. Anyway,
whenever I
would do a cold start of the engine the prop would make about a
half
revolution and stop, like it didn't have enough power to it. I
would then
try again and it would turn fine.
Another RV friend of mine on my field told me about a new starter
that
Sky-Tec came out with that took less volts and turned the prop
slower.
It's a High Torque in Line NL. This friend was having the same
problem with
his 7, which has high compression pistons. We both switched to
this new NL
starter and it solved our problem. The new starter weighed a
little bit more
than my old one, something like a pound. I live in TX, so cold
isn't a
problem but I fly up into the cold country and was worried I
wasn't going to
get started on some cold day.
Sky-Tec are really good people located right here near me in
Granbury, TX
and they took my old starter in on trade against the new one and
it cost me
$250 to upgrade. I thought that was a pretty good deal.
Anyway I just thought I would pass this along in case any of you
are
experiencing the same problem as I had.
Wayne Edgerton
N602WT
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "gary" <speckter(at)comcast.net> |
I don=92t mean to sound like a smarty pants, but why would you cover up
your
nice seats with a towel or sheep skin. If the heat is a problem
shouldn=92t
you pick another material for your seats? It just seams counter
productive
to put expensive leather in and then cover it up. Use a top quality
cloth
fabric and not have the heat issue. Fill me in here, I guess I am in
the
dark.
Gary Specketer
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Wayne
Edgerton
Sent: Monday, June 22, 2009 5:30 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Hot weather
I had sheep skin in both my Bonanza and Baron, like Deems said below,
and it
solved the problem for me. If you look at the Corporate jet jockeys
that's
what many of them have also. There's a fellow on my field that could
make a
set for anyone that wanted them. He did my interior and does good work.
Wayne Edgerton N602WT
Time:
From:
Deems Davis
Subject:
Re: Hot weather
The Bonanza/Baron drivers have been using sheepskin covers for
this
purpose for years.
Deems Davis N519PJ
http://deemsrv10.com/
lbgjb10 wrote:
>
> Not blessed with A/C--it's hot and sweaty flying in Florida.
Love
the leather
sets, but has anyone found a material that one can temp. cover the
leather to
prevent hot sweaty pilots form soaking the leather!!!! hot and
toasty
larry
>
> --------
> Larry and Gayle N104LG
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=249411#249411
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> |
That's not sweat - you're just "glowing" (g)
Have you considered one of those Chest Cooler portable air conditioners? You would
only need it during the Summer and it shouldn't be a weight issue for Florida
local flying.
John
--------
#40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished. Finish Kit started.
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=249495#249495
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Brunkenhoefer <rebrunk42(at)gmail.com> |
When I had my seats made the bottom was sheep fur. It get really hot
in corpus Christi, but this takes care of it.
Sent from my iPhone
Robert E. Brunkenhoefer
Brunkenhoefer Law Firm, P.C.
520 Lawrence St.
Corpus Christi, Texas 78401
Phone: 361-888-8808
Facsimile: 361-888-6753
robert(at)brunklaw.com
On Jun 22, 2009, at 5:30 AM, "Wayne Edgerton"
wrote:
> I had sheep skin in both my Bonanza and Baron, like Deems said
> below, and it solved the problem for me. If you look at the
> Corporate jet jockeys that's what many of them have also. There's a
> fellow on my field that could make a set for anyone that wanted
> them. He did my interior and does good work.
>
> Wayne Edgerton N602WT
>
>
> From: Deems Davis
> Subject: Re: Hot weather
>
>
> The Bonanza/Baron drivers have been using sheepskin covers for
> this
> purpose for years.
>
> Deems Davis N519PJ
> http://deemsrv10.com/
>
> lbgjb10 wrote:
> >
> > Not blessed with A/C--it's hot and sweaty flying in
> Florida. Love the leather
> sets, but has anyone found a material that one can temp. cover
> the leather to
> prevent hot sweaty pilots form soaking the leather!!!! hot
> and toasty larry
> >
> > --------
> > Larry and Gayle N104LG
> >
> >
> > Read this topic online here:
> >
> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=249411#249411
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Brunkenhoefer <rebrunk42(at)gmail.com> |
I have a cooler type a/c I bought for my cardinal . It works great.
Want to buy it?
Sent from my iPhone
Robert E. Brunkenhoefer
Brunkenhoefer Law Firm, P.C.
520 Lawrence St.
Corpus Christi, Texas 78401
Phone: 361-888-8808
Facsimile: 361-888-6753
robert(at)brunklaw.com
On Jun 22, 2009, at 7:55 AM, "johngoodman"
wrote:
> >
>
> That's not sweat - you're just "glowing" (g)
>
> Have you considered one of those Chest Cooler portable air
> conditioners? You would only need it during the Summer and it
> shouldn't be a weight issue for Florida local flying.
>
> John
>
> --------
> #40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished. Finish Kit started.
> N711JG reserved
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=249495#249495
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob and Karen Brown" <bkbrown(at)minetfiber.com> |
| Subject: | Elevator travel vs. stick grip clearance |
Deems, good on you for making sure things were/are as they should be. Your
DAR sounds like my original FAA inspector, Mike Robertson who has since left
the Hillsboro, OR FSDO for Spokane. His inspection of my airplane took
almost three hours, he showed up with a toolkit and used lights, a creeper
and I have a picture of him in my airplane with him upside down and his feet
out the side...
Contrast that with a presentation we had recently at our EAA Chapter by the
new FAA guys from Hillsboro...a recent inspection of my friend's RV took
less than 10 minutes...their position now is that THEY are not responsible
for whether or not the plane is built correctly...you are. They are here to
inspect whether or not your paperwork is in order...that's it. Some people
like it, I don't.
Bob Brown
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
Sent: Sunday, June 21, 2009 9:04 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Elevator travel vs. stick grip clearance
I had been warned by others on the field that my DAR was a stickler for
control systems. And I made sure that there was no interference with the
grips in all extreme quadrants before the inspection. During the
inspection (Yes he checked all the extremes) We discussed this part of
the inspection, and he echoed the points that Dave relates. His view was
that if an emergency develops and you loose your engine and or you
prop, if you still have FULL control of your aircraft, you stand a
better chance of survival. Unexpected situations can and will develop
(runaway/stuck trim), when they do, we want the FULL CAPABILITIES OF THE
AIRCRAFT at our disposal, not just a portion of them.
Deems Davis
Dave Saylor wrote:
> We inspect a lot of homebuilts that come in with some sort of issue
> with control travel. It's not generally the easiest thing to fix.
>
> Usually, the owners argue that you don't really need full control
> deflection because if you used it, the result would be a pretty wild ride.
>
> But the little blue line on your airspeed indicator (125 knots) is the
> highest speed that the engineers came up with for being able to do
> exactly that--full deflection, without structural damage. They must
> have had some scenario in mind. Granted, it won't happen in blue sky
> cruise, but when things go bad you want to know what your limitations
> are, and you want as much in your favor as possible.
>
> I think a more likely scenario is on take-off or landing, at much
> lower speeds, when the controls aren't as effective. I was just
> reading a report about an engine failure and subsequent long landing.
> The pilot used every bit of skill and likely a lot of control
> deflection, to do what needed to be done. Things got hairy after he
> had slowed quite a bit, but still had aerodynamic control, and had to
> avoid some obstacles.
>
> I always advise people to get as much control travel as allowable.
> --
> Dave Saylor
> AirCrafters LLC
> 140 Aviation Way
> Watsonville, CA 95076
> 831-722-9141 Shop
> 831-750-0284 Cell
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Kraus <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator travel vs. stick grip clearance |
FAA's position has always been one of paperwork, not airworthiness, at
least here in SE Michigan. He checked for secure engine mounts,
accessability to the fuel selector ( high priofile accident) and
placarding. Rest is up to you...... The 3 I were involved took about
1 hour each, with 50 minutes of small talk.... That is why you use
the EAA technical counselors and all your plane friends to review your
work.
Sent from my iPhone
On Jun 22, 2009, at 10:13 AM, "Bob and Karen Brown" wrote:
> >
>
> Deems, good on you for making sure things were/are as they should
> be. Your
> DAR sounds like my original FAA inspector, Mike Robertson who has
> since left
> the Hillsboro, OR FSDO for Spokane. His inspection of my airplane
> took
> almost three hours, he showed up with a toolkit and used lights, a
> creeper
> and I have a picture of him in my airplane with him upside down and
> his feet
> out the side...
>
> Contrast that with a presentation we had recently at our EAA Chapter
> by the
> new FAA guys from Hillsboro...a recent inspection of my friend's RV
> took
> less than 10 minutes...their position now is that THEY are not
> responsible
> for whether or not the plane is built correctly...you are. They are
> here to
> inspect whether or not your paperwork is in order...that's it. Some
> people
> like it, I don't.
>
> Bob Brown
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
> Sent: Sunday, June 21, 2009 9:04 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Elevator travel vs. stick grip clearance
>
>
> I had been warned by others on the field that my DAR was a stickler
> for
> control systems. And I made sure that there was no interference with
> the
> grips in all extreme quadrants before the inspection. During the
> inspection (Yes he checked all the extremes) We discussed this part of
> the inspection, and he echoed the points that Dave relates. His view
> was
> that if an emergency develops and you loose your engine and or you
> prop, if you still have FULL control of your aircraft, you stand a
> better chance of survival. Unexpected situations can and will develop
> (runaway/stuck trim), when they do, we want the FULL CAPABILITIES OF
> THE
> AIRCRAFT at our disposal, not just a portion of them.
>
> Deems Davis
>
> Dave Saylor wrote:
>> We inspect a lot of homebuilts that come in with some sort of issue
>> with control travel. It's not generally the easiest thing to fix.
>>
>> Usually, the owners argue that you don't really need full control
>> deflection because if you used it, the result would be a pretty
>> wild ride.
>>
>> But the little blue line on your airspeed indicator (125 knots) is
>> the
>> highest speed that the engineers came up with for being able to do
>> exactly that--full deflection, without structural damage. They must
>> have had some scenario in mind. Granted, it won't happen in blue sky
>> cruise, but when things go bad you want to know what your limitations
>> are, and you want as much in your favor as possible.
>>
>> I think a more likely scenario is on take-off or landing, at much
>> lower speeds, when the controls aren't as effective. I was just
>> reading a report about an engine failure and subsequent long landing.
>> The pilot used every bit of skill and likely a lot of control
>> deflection, to do what needed to be done. Things got hairy after he
>> had slowed quite a bit, but still had aerodynamic control, and had to
>> avoid some obstacles.
>>
>> I always advise people to get as much control travel as allowable.
>> --
>> Dave Saylor
>> AirCrafters LLC
>> 140 Aviation Way
>> Watsonville, CA 95076
>> 831-722-9141 Shop
>> 831-750-0284 Cell
>> *
>>
>>
>> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "gary" <speckter(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Elevator travel vs. stick grip clearance |
This is even more reason to rely heavily on your Tech Counselor.
Gary Specketer
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob and Karen
Brown
Sent: Monday, June 22, 2009 9:14 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Elevator travel vs. stick grip clearance
Deems, good on you for making sure things were/are as they should be. Your
DAR sounds like my original FAA inspector, Mike Robertson who has since left
the Hillsboro, OR FSDO for Spokane. His inspection of my airplane took
almost three hours, he showed up with a toolkit and used lights, a creeper
and I have a picture of him in my airplane with him upside down and his feet
out the side...
Contrast that with a presentation we had recently at our EAA Chapter by the
new FAA guys from Hillsboro...a recent inspection of my friend's RV took
less than 10 minutes...their position now is that THEY are not responsible
for whether or not the plane is built correctly...you are. They are here to
inspect whether or not your paperwork is in order...that's it. Some people
like it, I don't.
Bob Brown
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
Sent: Sunday, June 21, 2009 9:04 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Elevator travel vs. stick grip clearance
I had been warned by others on the field that my DAR was a stickler for
control systems. And I made sure that there was no interference with the
grips in all extreme quadrants before the inspection. During the
inspection (Yes he checked all the extremes) We discussed this part of
the inspection, and he echoed the points that Dave relates. His view was
that if an emergency develops and you loose your engine and or you
prop, if you still have FULL control of your aircraft, you stand a
better chance of survival. Unexpected situations can and will develop
(runaway/stuck trim), when they do, we want the FULL CAPABILITIES OF THE
AIRCRAFT at our disposal, not just a portion of them.
Deems Davis
Dave Saylor wrote:
> We inspect a lot of homebuilts that come in with some sort of issue
> with control travel. It's not generally the easiest thing to fix.
>
> Usually, the owners argue that you don't really need full control
> deflection because if you used it, the result would be a pretty wild ride.
>
> But the little blue line on your airspeed indicator (125 knots) is the
> highest speed that the engineers came up with for being able to do
> exactly that--full deflection, without structural damage. They must
> have had some scenario in mind. Granted, it won't happen in blue sky
> cruise, but when things go bad you want to know what your limitations
> are, and you want as much in your favor as possible.
>
> I think a more likely scenario is on take-off or landing, at much
> lower speeds, when the controls aren't as effective. I was just
> reading a report about an engine failure and subsequent long landing.
> The pilot used every bit of skill and likely a lot of control
> deflection, to do what needed to be done. Things got hairy after he
> had slowed quite a bit, but still had aerodynamic control, and had to
> avoid some obstacles.
>
> I always advise people to get as much control travel as allowable.
> --
> Dave Saylor
> AirCrafters LLC
> 140 Aviation Way
> Watsonville, CA 95076
> 831-722-9141 Shop
> 831-750-0284 Cell
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Elevator travel vs. stick grip clearance |
| From: | ricksked(at)embarqmail.com |
Mel Asberry did my inspection and the paperwork was very minimal. He spent almost
four hours going my aircraft. When he wasn't finding anything I started to
feel pretty good...I had a loose jamb nut on the left aileron bellcrank, cabin
heat wasn't labeled fwd/aft and purge valve wasn't labeled. As far as this stick
grip issue I think everyone is missing the point. In the builders manual you
are given maximum deflection for all control surfaces. Check the amount of
full down and you may find that at that point the grips won't hit the panel. FWIW
too much throw can be a problem as well. Full down is more important than
some give it credit. Engine loss on take off requires immediate/fast application
of full down to arrest the climb and establish best glide. Done properly and
altitude loss will be minimal during the transition to best glide...try it
at altitude and work to see how much altitude you can save during the maneuver...done
right and it will be almost no loss but it will require aggressive and
full application of down elevator
Rick Sked
N246RS
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
-----Original Message-----
From: "Bob and Karen Brown" <bkbrown(at)minetfiber.com>
Date: Mon, 22 Jun 2009 07:13:48
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Elevator travel vs. stick grip clearance
Deems, good on you for making sure things were/are as they should be. Your
DAR sounds like my original FAA inspector, Mike Robertson who has since left
the Hillsboro, OR FSDO for Spokane. His inspection of my airplane took
almost three hours, he showed up with a toolkit and used lights, a creeper
and I have a picture of him in my airplane with him upside down and his feet
out the side...
Contrast that with a presentation we had recently at our EAA Chapter by the
new FAA guys from Hillsboro...a recent inspection of my friend's RV took
less than 10 minutes...their position now is that THEY are not responsible
for whether or not the plane is built correctly...you are. They are here to
inspect whether or not your paperwork is in order...that's it. Some people
like it, I don't.
Bob Brown
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
Sent: Sunday, June 21, 2009 9:04 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Elevator travel vs. stick grip clearance
I had been warned by others on the field that my DAR was a stickler for
control systems. And I made sure that there was no interference with the
grips in all extreme quadrants before the inspection. During the
inspection (Yes he checked all the extremes) We discussed this part of
the inspection, and he echoed the points that Dave relates. His view was
that if an emergency develops and you loose your engine and or you
prop, if you still have FULL control of your aircraft, you stand a
better chance of survival. Unexpected situations can and will develop
(runaway/stuck trim), when they do, we want the FULL CAPABILITIES OF THE
AIRCRAFT at our disposal, not just a portion of them.
Deems Davis
Dave Saylor wrote:
> We inspect a lot of homebuilts that come in with some sort of issue
> with control travel. It's not generally the easiest thing to fix.
>
> Usually, the owners argue that you don't really need full control
> deflection because if you used it, the result would be a pretty wild ride.
>
> But the little blue line on your airspeed indicator (125 knots) is the
> highest speed that the engineers came up with for being able to do
> exactly that--full deflection, without structural damage. They must
> have had some scenario in mind. Granted, it won't happen in blue sky
> cruise, but when things go bad you want to know what your limitations
> are, and you want as much in your favor as possible.
>
> I think a more likely scenario is on take-off or landing, at much
> lower speeds, when the controls aren't as effective. I was just
> reading a report about an engine failure and subsequent long landing.
> The pilot used every bit of skill and likely a lot of control
> deflection, to do what needed to be done. Things got hairy after he
> had slowed quite a bit, but still had aerodynamic control, and had to
> avoid some obstacles.
>
> I always advise people to get as much control travel as allowable.
> --
> Dave Saylor
> AirCrafters LLC
> 140 Aviation Way
> Watsonville, CA 95076
> 831-722-9141 Shop
> 831-750-0284 Cell
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "lbgjb10" <lbgjb(at)gnt.net> |
Firstly, thanks for all the great responses. One thing I've learned is that getting
in and 'sliding' down, without leather I get one giant wedgie!!! So I like
the leather overall. I've tried the cooler type A/C and frankly it's a PIA
and doesn't cool enuf. I'll look into the vests-I wonder how comfortable they
would be sitting (things gouging in your back??) I've used them at work (standing)
and they do work, but someone else was taking care of all the equipment!!
I'll try the terry cloth--would love to have something like a 'sock' that
would slide over rear seat once in. I've looked on line at the A/C portable
unit that will work on 12v, but really would like to see it in action, and not
sure it will have umph to blow air from the baggage compartment forward.
Just got back from short trip to NC, 75 degrees at 6000, 72% power and oil temp
187 max,190 in climb. Large oil cooler and louvers work wonders. larry b
--------
Larry and Gayle N104LG
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=249537#249537
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cumins" <jcumins(at)jcis.net> |
Larry
Did you install the louvers on just the bottom of the cowl or both the
bottom and sides of the cowl. Being here in California summers are always
in high 90 and low 100 during the day. So cooling will be most important.
John G. Cumins
President
JC'S Interactive Systems
2499 B1 Martin Rd
Fairfield Ca 94533
707-425-7100
707-425-7576 Fax
Your Total Technology Solution Provider
40864 Picking up wings soon.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of lbgjb10
Sent: Monday, June 22, 2009 9:26 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Hot weather
Firstly, thanks for all the great responses. One thing I've learned is that
getting in and 'sliding' down, without leather I get one giant wedgie!!! So
I like the leather overall. I've tried the cooler type A/C and frankly it's
a PIA and doesn't cool enuf. I'll look into the vests-I wonder how
comfortable they would be sitting (things gouging in your back??) I've used
them at work (standing) and they do work, but someone else was taking care
of all the equipment!! I'll try the terry cloth--would love to have
something like a 'sock' that would slide over rear seat once in. I've
looked on line at the A/C portable unit that will work on 12v, but really
would like to see it in action, and not sure it will have umph to blow air
from the baggage compartment forward.
Just got back from short trip to NC, 75 degrees at 6000, 72% power and oil
temp 187 max,190 in climb. Large oil cooler and louvers work wonders.
larry b
--------
Larry and Gayle N104LG
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=249537#249537
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eagerlee" <eagerlee(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator travel vs. stick grip clearance |
we had a similar occurance on RV-10, kit #203: the co-pilot side rubbed
the aluminum piece below the panel and we want to put some switches or
circuit breakers there so opted to tighten the bend on the curve of the
stick. That steel is some pretty stubborn stuff (probably chrome moly)
so we strapped it tightly into a bender and let it sit overnight - no
joy. Next we strapped it into the bender and heated it to a light
cherry glow and let it cool for an hour - eureka. We got our clearance
and all is well. Apparantly, the QC is a bit lax on these - our two
control sticks differed by about 1.5" clearance measure from the panel
with oak wooden grips installed.
Paul Hahn
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator travel vs. stick grip clearance |
When I built my Pitts years ago, we had to have precover inspections.
My paperwork was on a table on one side of the hangar, the wings and
tail feathers on the other, with the fuselage in between. He opened the
airframe book and started writing, looking at all the pieces. "I only
see one wing ...... Oh yeah, there's the bottom wings ....." and
continued to write that all the major parts were there and 'looked
good'. The airworthiness inspection was done with the airplane sitting
in front of the hangar ..... ready for flight. He walked around it and
said "Looks OK to me." and filled out my temporary airworthiness and
flight restrictions. All in about 10 minutes, and at no charge. He
worked at Piper and certified all their airplanes .... and wasn't a Fed.
When I asked him about the cursory inspection, his reply was "It looks
like a Pitts, and I'm just here to see that you didn't do something
stupid like make the airplane out of the cardboard from the pack of
legal pads!!!"
Lately, the FAA will inspect (FSDO 15, Orlando FL) .... but it may take
months and their ability to show up on time is miserable. The
inspections, when they dod happen were thorough, though.
Linn
Bob and Karen Brown wrote:
>
> Deems, good on you for making sure things were/are as they should be. Your
> DAR sounds like my original FAA inspector, Mike Robertson who has since left
> the Hillsboro, OR FSDO for Spokane. His inspection of my airplane took
> almost three hours, he showed up with a toolkit and used lights, a creeper
> and I have a picture of him in my airplane with him upside down and his feet
> out the side...
>
> Contrast that with a presentation we had recently at our EAA Chapter by the
> new FAA guys from Hillsboro...a recent inspection of my friend's RV took
> less than 10 minutes...their position now is that THEY are not responsible
> for whether or not the plane is built correctly...you are. They are here to
> inspect whether or not your paperwork is in order...that's it. Some people
> like it, I don't.
>
> Bob Brown
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
> Sent: Sunday, June 21, 2009 9:04 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Elevator travel vs. stick grip clearance
>
>
> I had been warned by others on the field that my DAR was a stickler for
> control systems. And I made sure that there was no interference with the
> grips in all extreme quadrants before the inspection. During the
> inspection (Yes he checked all the extremes) We discussed this part of
> the inspection, and he echoed the points that Dave relates. His view was
> that if an emergency develops and you loose your engine and or you
> prop, if you still have FULL control of your aircraft, you stand a
> better chance of survival. Unexpected situations can and will develop
> (runaway/stuck trim), when they do, we want the FULL CAPABILITIES OF THE
> AIRCRAFT at our disposal, not just a portion of them.
>
> Deems Davis
>
> Dave Saylor wrote:
>> We inspect a lot of homebuilts that come in with some sort of issue
>> with control travel. It's not generally the easiest thing to fix.
>>
>> Usually, the owners argue that you don't really need full control
>> deflection because if you used it, the result would be a pretty wild ride.
>>
>> But the little blue line on your airspeed indicator (125 knots) is the
>> highest speed that the engineers came up with for being able to do
>> exactly that--full deflection, without structural damage. They must
>> have had some scenario in mind. Granted, it won't happen in blue sky
>> cruise, but when things go bad you want to know what your limitations
>> are, and you want as much in your favor as possible.
>>
>> I think a more likely scenario is on take-off or landing, at much
>> lower speeds, when the controls aren't as effective. I was just
>> reading a report about an engine failure and subsequent long landing.
>> The pilot used every bit of skill and likely a lot of control
>> deflection, to do what needed to be done. Things got hairy after he
>> had slowed quite a bit, but still had aerodynamic control, and had to
>> avoid some obstacles.
>>
>> I always advise people to get as much control travel as allowable.
>> --
>> Dave Saylor
>> AirCrafters LLC
>> 140 Aviation Way
>> Watsonville, CA 95076
>> 831-722-9141 Shop
>> 831-750-0284 Cell
>> *
>>
>>
>> *
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 2009 OSH RV-10 HQ Camping Info |
| From: | "bcondrey" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
Ok, NOW it's getting close! I posted this a while back in response to a couple
of inquiries but reality is that in a mere 4 weeks Gary and I will be on site
at OSH in Camp Scholler staking out sites. If you want us to get one for you
in the "RV-10 HQ" area I'll need to have payment sometime before then. You should
find all the details below, but if you've got questions just drop me a note
offline. I'll start getting info to Tim for his website updates shortly.
Remember, I'll also need your EAA number (and it has to be current through August)
to reserve a site for you.
Bob
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=249577#249577
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 2009 OSH RV-10 HQ Camping Info |
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
You'll have to go to the thread for the detailed info
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?t=57784
Bob
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Condrey, Bob
(US SSA)
Sent: Monday, June 22, 2009 3:06 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: 2009 OSH RV-10 HQ Camping Info
Ok, NOW it's getting close! I posted this a while back in response to a
couple of inquiries but reality is that in a mere 4 weeks Gary and I
will be on site at OSH in Camp Scholler staking out sites. If you want
us to get one for you in the "RV-10 HQ" area I'll need to have payment
sometime before then. You should find all the details below, but if
you've got questions just drop me a note offline. I'll start getting
info to Tim for his website updates shortly.
Remember, I'll also need your EAA number (and it has to be current
through August) to reserve a site for you.
Bob
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=249577#249577
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 2009 OSH RV-10 HQ Camping Info |
Going into this further, this year Bob will handle all the camping
site stuff, but I will still get a list from him of the people
camping and keep an online chart for you so you can coordinate
who's got the site if you want to share a site for the early/late
part of the week.
I can also keep a list of who's going to OSH, and add the columns
to the builders list like last year. It's a good opportunity
for you to update contact info, and to let other RV-10 builders
know what days you'll be there.
I'll try to have everything ready for the wind up by 7/1/09
for sure, so give me a couple/few days to get the charts
ready, but as soon as Bob is ready to take your campsite
reservations, feel free to lock them in with him.
More to follow!
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
bcondrey wrote:
>
> Ok, NOW it's getting close! I posted this a while back in response to a couple
of inquiries but reality is that in a mere 4 weeks Gary and I will be on site
at OSH in Camp Scholler staking out sites. If you want us to get one for you
in the "RV-10 HQ" area I'll need to have payment sometime before then. You
should find all the details below, but if you've got questions just drop me a
note offline. I'll start getting info to Tim for his website updates shortly.
>
> Remember, I'll also need your EAA number (and it has to be current through August)
to reserve a site for you.
>
> Bob
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=249577#249577
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "lbgjb10" <lbgjb(at)gnt.net> |
standard louvers underneath, and then also on the sides. the combo with larger
oil cooler works so well you need way to moderate the cooling in winter. butter-fly
valve in the 4 inch scat tube works great. i would do the same combo
again without hesitation. lbb
--------
Larry and Gayle N104LG
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=249590#249590
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Elevator travel vs. stick grip clearance |
| From: | "Jim" <jim(at)CombsFive.Com> |
I actually did get the controls installed and all the linkages correct
with the vans sticks clearing everything. The stick grips have a slight
forward cant to them (makes them more comfortable to hold). Its the
forward cant that caused the problem. I will be checking them again
to see what I need to do to get the stick with grips to clear the
switches.
I don't want the grips to be vertical
and I like the current stick position for normal flight. Making them
lower to clear the panel is not desirable either.
Have
to take another look at what I have and what changes can be made.
Thanks, Jim C
N312F - Flying 75 hours.
Do Not
Archive.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Bonaco Fuel lines - selector to wing |
| From: | "ThisOne" <thisone58(at)gmail.com> |
"Bonaco's are Teflon, correct? "
Yes they are, -6 Teflon core stainless steel braid with a clear coating.
Working pressure 2,500 PSI.....Burst pressure 10,000 PSI
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=249603#249603
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Schaefer <n142ds(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | FS: Avidyne EX-500 w/XM Weather |
I have an Avidyne EX-500 w/Heads Up Technologies XM receiver for sale. This
is the best MFD made. It's a 24v system .. perfect for the 10!
Contact me off line if interested.
David W. Schaefer
www.n142ds.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Bonaco Fuel lines - selector to wing |
| From: | "ThisOne" <thisone58(at)gmail.com> |
Tim,
When you get to that point, please feel free to give me a call and I shall do my
best to make sure that the replacement lines you order will fit your build.
Just tell me (when the time comes), how you took your measurements. That is to
say if they are be overall length or seat to seat.
Regards,
Brett
Bonaco, Inc.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=249629#249629
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Cabin hinge bolt clearnce |
| From: | "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> |
I used a Dremel on the fiberglass.
John
--------
#40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished. Finish Kit started.
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=249639#249639
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Reduction T for AFS manifold and Lightspeed Box |
| From: | "Michael Wellenzohn" <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net> |
Hi does anyone know where to get a 1/4 x 1/8 x 1/4 T hose connector to link the
manifold pressure to the lightspeed box (1/8) tube as well as to the AFS manifold
transducer (1/4)?
Many thanks
Michael
--------
RV-10 builder (avionics, wiring)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=249648#249648
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Mauledriver Watson <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
##^>!$%(&*^( Cowling
Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Reduction T for AFS manifold and Lightspeed Box |
Spruce, Ace Hardware, Home Depot, Lowes.... I think they all have them, but
try Ace first.
Don
--- On Tue, 6/23/09, Michael Wellenzohn wrote:
From: Michael Wellenzohn <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net>
Subject: RV10-List: Reduction T for AFS manifold and Lightspeed Box
Date: Tuesday, June 23, 2009, 6:17 AM
>
Hi does anyone know where to get a 1/4 x 1/8 x 1/4 T hose connector to link
the manifold pressure to the lightspeed box (1/8) tube as well as to the A
FS manifold transducer (1/4)?
Many thanks
Michael
--------
RV-10 builder (avionics, wiring)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=249648#249648
le, List Admin.
=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
The next phrase will be "##^>!$%(&*^( Baffling"...
Bob
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill
Mauledriver Watson
Sent: Tuesday, June 23, 2009 8:38 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Cowling
##^>!$%(&*^( Cowling
Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com> |
| Subject: | Reduction T for AFS manifold and Lightspeed Box |
Checker/autozone.
Rene' Felker
RV-10 N423CF Flying
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael
Wellenzohn
Sent: Tuesday, June 23, 2009 7:17 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Reduction T for AFS manifold and Lightspeed Box
Hi does anyone know where to get a 1/4 x 1/8 x 1/4 T hose connector to link
the manifold pressure to the lightspeed box (1/8) tube as well as to the AFS
manifold transducer (1/4)?
Many thanks
Michael
--------
RV-10 builder (avionics, wiring)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=249648#249648
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | OSH 2009 Camping / Flying-in / Parking |
Ok Folks, it's now less than 1 month from the time that we'll be
blocking our campsites, and some people will be onsite relaxing
and enjoying the pre-show within 30 days. Everything is now ready
with the online info needed to get you started for reserving
campsites, and I have a new launch page for everything
OSH related for our RV-10 group. http://www.myrv10.com/osh
Bob is handling all campsite reservations, so by following the
links off of the one above, you can get all paid up for your
campsite and ensure you have space. This is done as a non-profit
nice thing by Bob and Gary. The only change to previous info
we posted is that the paypal fees are often slightly different
depending on who sends payment, as there are different fees for
different countries, so rather than $8 (of which the normal
U.S. person I think cost $8.50 last year), we set it to $10
so that Bob would lose less money. You can, of course,
avoid paypal fees by mailing him a check directly. If you
choose the mailing option, please make sure to have it to
Bob well in advance of 7/20, so he has time to cash it
and have your money available to pay the EAA when he registers
sites on 7/21. If you are getting a campsite, please read
all of the camping related links fully. And if you choose not
to pre-register for a campsite, please don't just show up
and ask for space on a site...it's not fair to the people
planning to have to juggle space on a moments notice.
MAKE SURE you give your EAA number to Bob when you pay
for your site...he absolutely needs that for your reservation.
And, last year I was blindsided a bit by one other issue...
to reserve your site you need to be an active EAA Member,
so make sure your EAA renewal isn't about to expire. I had
to pay a couple renewals on the spot last year in order
to reserve sites...we don't want that happening again.
For people flying into OSH, if you update your builders list
entry you can send me the dates your plane will be displayed,
so that others can see it. There are actually people
that will plan their OSH schedule around such celebrities
as Deems Davis. :) For RV-10 fly-ins, I haven't yet heard
from Jeff Point, but I am pretty sure it will be the same
as usual...RV-10's parking together due to size, so they will
want a good estimate of quantities and dates so they block our
RV-10 area accordingly. Parking is free for fly-in homebuilts.
If you're camping out by your plane, you will not likely have
any need to reserve space. You just get stuck out in the back
lot and get whatever spot is available. If you're planning
to fly in and camp, use the same system and I can mark you
as homebuilt camping and it will let people know where to look
for your plane.
For people wanting to volunteer for parking RV-10's during the
first busy days of the show, again, Jeff hasn't yet requested
it but I'm sure he'll appreciate any help you can give, AND
you get a T-shirt, so I have links to the volunteer chart
for that too. You can email me or use the comments box in
the "update builders list" link to pass on the info.
The Airventure grounds have changed some since last year, so
refer to http://www.airventure.org for info on the changes.
We will try to post current photos once sites are blocked,
and of course you'll see emails here on status updates as
we get closer.
It should be a good year for RV-10's with all the growth
we've had recently in our population. I hope to see many
flying RV-10's out in the lot!
--
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Reduction T for AFS manifold and Lightspeed Box |
| From: | "orchidman" <gary(at)wingscc.com> |
I got mine from Aircraft Spruce. Get all 3 connectors 1/8". Use a small piece
for the tubing from LS (~ 3/8" long) and slip it into one end of a 1/4" piece
of tubing that goes to the AFS transducer. Push the 1/4" end with the 1/8" piece
from LS onto the T. It will lock on just fine.
A picture is available at http://www.wingscc.com/N2GB/41-UForwardFuselage/100_3075.html
--------
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
(N2GB Flying)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=249672#249672
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Mauledriver Watson <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
At least they are metal
Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrote:
>
> The next phrase will be "##^>!$%(&*^( Baffling"...
>
> Bob
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill
> Mauledriver Watson
> Sent: Tuesday, June 23, 2009 8:38 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Cowling
>
>
>
> ##^>!$%(&*^( Cowling
>
> Bill
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Reduction T for AFS manifold and Lightspeed Box |
| From: | William Curtis <wcurtis(at)nerv10.com> |
I did a similar thing since I could not find a "T" that was 1/4 - 1/8 -
1/4.
I found a 1/4 to 1/8 reducer at Pep Boys.
http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/10FFwd/FF1a.html
Using a short piece of tubing, I connected the 1/4 to 1/8" reducer to the
1/4" T. The "T" was from Aircraft Spruce.
http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/10FFwd/FF1b.html
http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/10FFwd/FF1c.html
The 1/8" portion goes to the Lightspeed while the 1/4" goes to the bulkhead
fitting and the AFS sensor.
At the firewall I have a 1/4" bulkhead connector with a restrictor (drilled
rivet porsealed in place) going to the manifold pressure port.
William
http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
On Tue, Jun 23, 2009 at 10:20 AM, orchidman wrote:
>
> I got mine from Aircraft Spruce. Get all 3 connectors 1/8". Use a small
> piece for the tubing from LS (~ 3/8" long) and slip it into one end of a
> 1/4" piece of tubing that goes to the AFS transducer. Push the 1/4" end
> with the 1/8" piece from LS onto the T. It will lock on just fine.
> A picture is available at
> http://www.wingscc.com/N2GB/41-UForwardFuselage/100_3075.html
>
> --------
> Gary Blankenbiller
> RV10 - # 40674
> (N2GB Flying)
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=249672#249672
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: OSH 2009 Camping / Flying-in / Parking |
That's interesting, I'm planning my arrival around Ed Hayden and Rick
Sked, those guys are ROCK STARS I'm just a groupie !!!!!
Deems
Tim Olson wrote:
> There are actually people
> that will plan their OSH schedule around such celebrities
> as Deems Davis. :)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Fuel tank leak testing |
| From: | "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> |
Getting a bit crazy - worrying about fuel tank leaks. Anyways, I bought the Vans
fuel tank test kit. The kit is fine, but it is hard to find a leak-proof balloon.
All the balloons seem to sag after a bit causing you to worry if it is leaking
or not. you really need to use a mylar balloon and helium.
Anyway, I have the wings temporarily mounted with hardware store bolts, so I took
the bull by the horns today and filled one tank with auto gas. This should
provide definitive evidence of any leak. Figure that I will drain it and place
the fuel in the other tank to test it.
PS: Does anyone know of a fuel dye that will not mess up my fuel system when I
put it in my Toyota SUV???
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there someday
Q/B Kit - FWF end game
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=249742#249742
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuel tank leak testing |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
Marvel Mystery Oil will give it a red tint.
On Tue, Jun 23, 2009 at 7:49 PM, AirMike wrote:
>
>
> PS: Does anyone know of a fuel dye that will not mess up my fuel system
> when I put it in my Toyota SUV???
>
> --------
> OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there someday
> Q/B Kit - FWF end game
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=249742#249742
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Mauledriver Watson <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Cowl knuckles - are fabrication directions missing from plans? |
I'm assembling the engine cowl hinges and pins. On page 47-8 they
describe how the hinge Cowl 10-03 are fabricated and installed.
The front of the pin is retained by a "knuckle". I assume this knuckle
is fabricated from a piece of the hinge material and that the pin is
bent and cut flush with the knuckle. However, there are no specific
directions on fabricating the knuckle. Nor does it seem to be a part in
the BOM.
It looks straight forward enough but the directions have been so
detailed and complete through this section, I'm surprised by the
omission... or am I missing something?
BTW, I see David McNeil suggests cutting the hinge pin long enough to
extend through the knuckle so that it can be bent over the edge of the
bottom cowl just as it is on the Glastar. Comments welcome here.
Thanks in advance
Bill "I didn't believe the cowl could take longer than 40 hours" Watson.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com> |
| Subject: | Cowl knuckles - are fabrication directions missing from |
plans?
Vans sells some pre-made hinge pins. I just bought them.
http://www.vansaircraft.com/cgi-bin/catalog.cgi?ident=1245850625-294-762&bro
wse=airframe&product=cowl-hinge-pin
Rene' Felker
RV-10 N423CF Flying
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill Mauledriver
Watson
Sent: Wednesday, June 24, 2009 7:13 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Cowl knuckles - are fabrication directions missing from
plans?
I'm assembling the engine cowl hinges and pins. On page 47-8 they
describe how the hinge Cowl 10-03 are fabricated and installed.
The front of the pin is retained by a "knuckle". I assume this knuckle
is fabricated from a piece of the hinge material and that the pin is
bent and cut flush with the knuckle. However, there are no specific
directions on fabricating the knuckle. Nor does it seem to be a part in
the BOM.
It looks straight forward enough but the directions have been so
detailed and complete through this section, I'm surprised by the
omission... or am I missing something?
BTW, I see David McNeil suggests cutting the hinge pin long enough to
extend through the knuckle so that it can be bent over the edge of the
bottom cowl just as it is on the Glastar. Comments welcome here.
Thanks in advance
Bill "I didn't believe the cowl could take longer than 40 hours" Watson.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Cowl knuckles - are fabrication directions missing from |
plans?
| From: | ricksked(at)embarqmail.com |
At this point EVERYTHING takes at least 40 hours
Rick Sked
------Original Message------
From: Bill Mauledriver Watson
Sender: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
ReplyTo: Rv
Sent: Jun 24, 2009 6:12 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Cowl knuckles - are fabrication directions missing from plans?
I'm assembling the engine cowl hinges and pins. On page 47-8 they
describe how the hinge Cowl 10-03 are fabricated and installed.
The front of the pin is retained by a "knuckle". I assume this knuckle
is fabricated from a piece of the hinge material and that the pin is
bent and cut flush with the knuckle. However, there are no specific
directions on fabricating the knuckle. Nor does it seem to be a part in
the BOM.
It looks straight forward enough but the directions have been so
detailed and complete through this section, I'm surprised by the
omission... or am I missing something?
BTW, I see David McNeil suggests cutting the hinge pin long enough to
extend through the knuckle so that it can be bent over the edge of the
bottom cowl just as it is on the Glastar. Comments welcome here.
Thanks in advance
Bill "I didn't believe the cowl could take longer than 40 hours" Watson.
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Mauledriver Watson <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cowl knuckles - are fabrication directions missing from |
plans?
Thanks Rene'
I saw the note about the pins in the plans but it wasn't clear that they
included the 'knuckle'. Should have know that whenever something is
boldfaced in the directions, it deserves extra attention and investigation.
Order going in now.
Bill Watson
Rene Felker wrote:
>
> Vans sells some pre-made hinge pins. I just bought them.
>
> http://www.vansaircraft.com/cgi-bin/catalog.cgi?ident=1245850625-294-762&bro
> wse=airframe&product=cowl-hinge-pin
>
> Rene' Felker
> RV-10 N423CF Flying
> 801-721-6080
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill Mauledriver
> Watson
> Sent: Wednesday, June 24, 2009 7:13 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Cowl knuckles - are fabrication directions missing from
> plans?
>
>
>
> I'm assembling the engine cowl hinges and pins. On page 47-8 they
> describe how the hinge Cowl 10-03 are fabricated and installed.
>
> The front of the pin is retained by a "knuckle". I assume this knuckle
> is fabricated from a piece of the hinge material and that the pin is
> bent and cut flush with the knuckle. However, there are no specific
> directions on fabricating the knuckle. Nor does it seem to be a part in
> the BOM.
>
> It looks straight forward enough but the directions have been so
> detailed and complete through this section, I'm surprised by the
> omission... or am I missing something?
>
> BTW, I see David McNeil suggests cutting the hinge pin long enough to
> extend through the knuckle so that it can be bent over the edge of the
> bottom cowl just as it is on the Glastar. Comments welcome here.
>
> Thanks in advance
> Bill "I didn't believe the cowl could take longer than 40 hours" Watson.
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Cowl knuckles - are fabrication directions missing from |
pla
| From: | "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall(at)charter.net> |
Hey Bill,
There are several creative and beautiful mods out there for this. Here's a couple
of pictures of what I did that was simple, cheap, time consuming!
With a white painted screw that is countersunk, it almost disappears.
Later, - Lew
--------
non-pilot
crazy about building
NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
Painting when it's 60+ degrees!
Piddling with wiring and avionics.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=249803#249803
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/pin1_medium_334.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/white_pin1_medium_277.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ben Westfall" <rv10(at)sinkrate.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cowl knuckles - are fabrication directions missing |
from pla
Lew how did you get that eyelet end on the hinge pin?
-Ben Westfall
Hey Bill,
There are several creative and beautiful mods out there for this. Here's a
couple of pictures of what I did that was simple, cheap, time consuming!
With a white painted screw that is countersunk, it almost disappears.
Later, - Lew
--------
non-pilot
crazy about building
NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
Painting when it's 60+ degrees!
Piddling with wiring and avionics.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cowl knuckles - are fabrication directions missing |
from pla
Hey Ben,
I just bent the pin around and welded the loop closed, then countersunk it.
I riveted the nutplate (the ones with the two rivets on one end and the
threads on the other -- I don't have the number in front of me) to the
fiberglass, then glassed in around it for extra strength. A bit of carving
out of the fiberglass for the recess, and making a small guide hole for the
pin (coated the pin with vaseline and glassed around it) and it fits very
well. To remove it, take the screw out, rotate the "ear" of the pin out so
you can get a grip on it, and just pull it out. To make the pin slide in
and out easier, I flatted a space on the pin with a hammer before I cut it
to length, stuck it in a drill and used it to ream out the hing ears
slightly until it ran in and out smoothly. I know, I know, but it works
really well!
Later, - Lew
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ben Westfall" <rv10(at)sinkrate.com>
Sent: Wednesday, June 24, 2009 1:09 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Cowl knuckles - are fabrication directions
missing from pla
>
> Lew how did you get that eyelet end on the hinge pin?
>
> -Ben Westfall
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Mauledriver Watson <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cowl knuckles - are fabrication directions missing |
from pla
Very nice Lew.
I've decided the cowling is not a place for me to express myself. I
have to confess to not being able to grok the whole cowling hinge pin
operation until I finally started doing 47-7 step 6. After reading it
and re-reading it, I self diagnosed brain constipation and soldiered on
until finally reaching 47-7 step 6. What a relief.
I'm hitting the order button for the Vans part as I write.
Thanks
Bill "looking forward to the engine baffles" Watson
40605
Lew Gallagher wrote:
>
> Hey Bill,
>
> There are several creative and beautiful mods out there for this. Here's a couple
of pictures of what I did that was simple, cheap, time consuming!
> With a white painted screw that is countersunk, it almost disappears.
>
> Later, - Lew
>
> --------
> non-pilot
> crazy about building
> NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
> Painting when it's 60+ degrees!
> Piddling with wiring and avionics.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=249803#249803
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/pin1_medium_334.jpg
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/white_pin1_medium_277.jpg
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuel tank leak testing |
| From: | "Ron B." <cfxoa(at)klis.com> |
Just tested with 100LL two days ago. I had already air tested them when I completed
them , but wanted to test them with fuel before painting them. So far so
good.
I mounted a tubing on the vent line and bent it upward a couple inches. As the
fuel temperature rose the fuel level also rose. When fuel came out the raised
vent, I would assume this would be a true test. Most of the air should be out
and tank full of fuel. We had the tanks on saw horses and level.
Ron
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=249877#249877
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Les Kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Toys for those living in fibreglass hell (or how to find all |
those missing rivets)
Hi
Over the past few weeks I have been sanding and fitting, sanding and fitting
ad nauseum. The net result is a garage full of fibreglass dust that I don't
like sweeping. Being the lazy soul that I am, she who must be obeyed bought
an IRobot Dirt Dog for the garage. It has done a wonderful job of picking up
all the dust on the floor without shooting it back into the air. This little
device really does work like a charm. It doesn't like odd shaped or larger
pieces of AL or f/g but it does a very nice job of picking most everything
else.
It can be seen at:
http://store.irobot.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2475131
Cheers
Les
#40643 - If this is a metal a/c, why does it have so much ^&%*$^%) f/g
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
Carpet dimensions
Baggage
Front 40.25"
Depth 29"
Rear 33.75"
Front seat floors
29.5 by 20.375
Rear seat floors
20.25" by 18.625"
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | First Long Cross-Country |
| From: | "dmaib(at)mac.com" <dmaib(at)mac.com> |
Mary and I had to travel from our home in New Smyrna Beach, FL to Wichita, KS last
week. The reason for the trip was a sad one. Her father was ill and we found
out on our first fuel stop that he had passed away early that morning.
The great circle distance from KEVB to KICT is roughly 1025 NM. The RV-10 really
does a nice job on a trip like this.
Our trip to Wichita included a fuel stop at General DeWit Spain airport in Memphis.
(M01) Great airport with friendly folks and decent fuel prices. ($3.75) I
found out that overnight hangar space is available for $25 per night. We have
friends in Memphis that we plan to visit, so this will be my airport of choice.
Met some fellow RV-10 flyers at the airport.
We flew into the main airport in Wichita (KICT) since it was closest to where we
were staying. Additionally, they had a decent self-serve fuel price ($3.82)
at Yingling Aviation. There are other FBO choices on the field, but I found the
service at Yingling to be outstanding. They got me space in a T hangar for the
week stay. It was fairly pricey, but they are willing to work with you. Yingling
is defintely my FBO of choice in Wichita.
The trip home yesterday included a fuel stop at the Shelby County airport in Alabaster,
AL. (KEET) We had used this airport when ferrying the airplane to FL
last winter. Great new facility, decent fuel price, ($3.52) excellent and friendly
service, and RV folks on the airport. We could have made the trip yesterday
non-stop with our SafeAir 1 extended range tanks, but our Mark II standard
range bladders ruled the day.
We averaged a 15 knot headwind all the way to KICT and had essentially no wind
all of the way home. Used altitudes from 7000' to 11,000'. Here are a couple of
screen shots of the Cheltons and the Vertical Power on the 11,000' leg. Love
those fuel specifics!
--------
David Maib
RV-10 #40559
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=249953#249953
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http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_0306_965.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kent Ogden" <OgdenK(at)upstate.edu> |
| Subject: | Fiberglass fairings question |
Hi all,
I have a question about the fiberglass fairings on the tail group. If
installed as per the instructions, will the paint at the joint between
fiberglass and Aluminum crack over time with expansion/contraction? I
recall postings about this kind of phenomenon related to the windscreen. In
anyone's opinion, is it worth the effort of glassing over the joint/rivets
and then filling to smooth, or is this just extra weight/effort? I would
like to finish this up before really getting into my wings so I don't have
to come back to it later.
Kent Ogden
#40710 Wings (just barely)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cumins" <jcumins(at)jcis.net> |
I Went out to Nut Tree Airport VCB and what did I see a very shiny bright
red RV-10. It was awesome, the owner was from the Fresno area as far as I
could figure out. I wish I was able to meet him but it was not to be.
The plane was very nice extremely high quality build and absolutely
beautiful, being a beginner just starting the process of building it was
very much a motivator for me.
A friend drove by and told me to quit drooling. I just had to take pics
while I was there.
John G. Cumins
40864 elevators priming
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Fiberglass fairings question |
I used the pop rivets on the rudder faring and seqaled over the gap nice an
d smooth. Believe you will not see the crack you are speaking of as the pop
rivets are hold the fibeglass to the metal rudder skin. I then made a hatc
h to access the wire going to the tail light. The flush hatch is made from
the piece cut from the faring and it is held in place with 2 screws.
John G
Date: Thu=2C 25 Jun 2009 11:33:31 -0400
From: OgdenK(at)upstate.edu
Subject: RV10-List: Fiberglass fairings question
Hi all=2C
I have a question about the fiberglass fairings on the tail group. If inst
alled as per the instructions=2C will the paint at the joint between fiberg
lass and Aluminum crack over time with expansion/contraction? I recall pos
tings about this kind of phenomenon related to the windscreen. In anyone's
opinion=2C is it worth the effort of glassing over the joint/rivets and t
hen filling to smooth=2C or is this just extra weight/effort? I would like
to finish this up before really getting into my wings so I don't have to c
ome back to it later.
Kent Ogden
#40710 Wings (just barely)
ky=B7=E8=9E=DB"=CD=ED=9C=A2Z+=D3M4=D3G=DAq=E7(=BA=B8=9E=AEw=B0r=8B=AB=89=EA
=D3=85=E4U=D7B=B2=D1&j)E=A2=BBR=C7=AD=85=E3=1A=B6=BA'=89=CB =8A=CBEy
=ABn=AD=EB j=F8 j=DA+=B6=86=EB=A3 =1E=B6=17j|=8B=8A=CBn=B6)b=B6'=AC=B2
=E7!j=C2=B2=D5'=FD+=9B=B1=CA=D8=A8=9C =DC=86+=DEI=E6=ABr=10=E8=C2y
hi=DE=C3k k=A3 =1E =16=AD=14=04=0F=86=8Bh=B2=16=ABy=A9=DD=9A=E7!=9A=E7!=9A
=8A=DEj=1A=DE~=1Bm=A7=FF=F0=C3 =9A=B6=BA'=89=CB=1C=A2o=CDj=F8 j=DA+E]t.+-
=86=DBi=FF=FC0=C2f=AD=AE=89r=C7(=9B=F3Z=BE(=1A=B6=8A=D1W] =8A=CB=7Fh=C0
=13D=E3H %=84=04S=91P=C4=92jg =AD=E6=ADr=89=EDz{Z'=CA=1A=BD=A8=A5i=B9^=BE
&=AD=85=E5=9ElZ+=BAk=1A=86=B7=9F=86=DBi=FF=F7=E8=AE=E9=AC=99=ABk=A2x=9C=B1
=CA&=86=DBi=FF=F7=E8=AE=E9=AC=99=ABk=A2x=9C=B1=CA&=FD=A2=B2=D0=A8=9E=DA
n=EBb=A2u=9Em(=ADy8Z=9EL=A8=B9=FA+=CA=8B=AB=81=E9=DE=AE=8B=AC=B2=EAi=A2
=BBLj=DBC=AD=A9ex=B8=AC=B4=07f=8Av=A1=AD=E7=E1=B6=DA=7F=FF 0=99=ABk=A2x=9C
=B1=CA&=FD=CA'=B6=B8=9B=BA=D8=A8=9E=1Bm=A7=FF=F0=C3 =9A=B6=BA'=89=CB=1C=A2o
=DC=A2{k=89=BB=AD=8A=89=FFk=F6=FF~=89=ED=FE=9A=DE=FD=BA=1D=CB=F8m=9A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fiberglass fairings question |
| From: | "orchidman" <gary(at)wingscc.com> |
Tim Olson wrote:
> I haven't had cracking on my fiberglass tips. But, I wish I had used screws
on the bottom rudder fairing and the forward tip
> fairing on the vertical stab. If I had used screws, running wires
> for my rudder trim would have been easier, and also I could
> easier mount a camera in the vertical stab. Since they're
> not removable it's a bigger chore. For the horizontal
> stab tips though, and the rudder top tip, I think glassing them
> in looks nice and see no reason not to.
> If you know you'll never do a camera up top, you could glass
> that one too.
>
I am considering mounting one on the under wing first inspection plate on the right
side. Problem is, I have not found a camera that I like. The resolutions
are just not there yet for a reasonable price. My eyes and ears are open for
one to hit the market.
--------
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
(N2GB Flying)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=249979#249979
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Fiberglass fairings question |
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
A consideration for the rudder bottom fairing would be to use screws for
ease of replacement. I know of more than 1 RV-10 that got tipped back
and crack the fiberglass from people on both steps at the same time, aft
CG and taxiing on rough turf field, etc.
And no, it hasn't happened to me...
Bob
N442PM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Les Kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Dan Lloyd RV-10 accident report is out |
Hi
I just came across this on another list.
..Les
http://www.ntsb.
<http://www.ntsb.gov/ntsb/brief.asp?ev_id 071120X01821&key=1>
gov/ntsb/brief.asp?ev_id 071120X01821&key=1
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: OSH 2009 Camping / Flying-in / Parking |
| From: | "bcondrey" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
There is now a more detailed map of the upgraded OSH grounds at http://www.airventure.org/planning/AV2009_grounds_map.pdf
For reference, our usual location for RV-10 HQ is just south of Paul's Park and
just west of Knapp St. For maximum confusion, North is left on this map...
Bob
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=249988#249988
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Dan Lloyd RV-10 accident report is out |
| From: | Mike Much <mkmuch(at)gmail.com> |
I am shocked and amazed at what's in this report. I am sorry for the
loss and I'm sorry for this situation. It reads like an instruction
manual of what not to do...
On 6/25/09, Les Kearney wrote:
> Hi
>
>
> I just came across this on another list.
>
>
> ..Les
>
> http://www.ntsb.
> <http://www.ntsb.gov/ntsb/brief.asp?ev_id 071120X01821&key=1>
> gov/ntsb/brief.asp?ev_id 071120X01821&key=1
>
>
--
Sent from my mobile device
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Dan Lloyd RV-10 accident report is out |
Reads just like Tim called it a year ago. I actually think the NTSB may have
taken Tim's report for their own report.
Regardless, very sad to see these facts again.
--------------------------------------------------
From: "Mike Much" <mkmuch(at)gmail.com>
Sent: Thursday, June 25, 2009 10:57 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Dan Lloyd RV-10 accident report is out
>
> I am shocked and amazed at what's in this report. I am sorry for the
> loss and I'm sorry for this situation. It reads like an instruction
> manual of what not to do...
>
>
> On 6/25/09, Les Kearney wrote:
>> Hi
>>
>>
>>
>> I just came across this on another list.
>>
>>
>>
>> ..Les
>>
>> http://www.ntsb.
>> <http://www.ntsb.gov/ntsb/brief.asp?ev_id 071120X01821&key=1>
>> gov/ntsb/brief.asp?ev_id 071120X01821&key=1
>>
>>
>
> --
> Sent from my mobile device
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> |
Okay, John you have teased us. Where are those pictures to drool over?
I have N410DP out of Fresno originally registered to Doug Peterson of
Kit #009 then sold to Phil Moradian. My file had Doug's plane sans
paint. Could it be??
I also have a Rick Emerian with N576RD out of Fresno with #247.
John Cox
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Cumins
Sent: Thursday, June 25, 2009 9:40 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Very Nice RV 10
I Went out to Nut Tree Airport VCB and what did I see a very shiny
bright
red RV-10. It was awesome, the owner was from the Fresno area as far as
I
could figure out. I wish I was able to meet him but it was not to be.
The plane was very nice extremely high quality build and absolutely
beautiful, being a beginner just starting the process of building it
was
very much a motivator for me.
A friend drove by and told me to quit drooling. I just had to take pics
while I was there.
John G. Cumins
40864 elevators priming
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Testement" <jwt(at)roadmapscoaching.com> |
My wife and I are flying from Richmond VA to Maine next week and are
planning to stop at Nantucket and then to go Bar Harbor and Boothbay. I
would love any recommendations as to what to see and do in Maine of if there
are any other stops that we should make.
_________________________________
John Testement
N311RV
40321
Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jay Rowe" <jfrjr(at)roadrunner.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Trip to Maine |
John: You have picked two of the best areas to see, and both fairly
accessable from local strips---especially Bar Harbor with a great
airport and a super FBO (including a loaner car). You should spend a
couple of days in B.H. You may want to also head inland toward the
Maine Western Mountains for some great views---plus lots of adequate
strips to land. If you need a hanger in Central Maine I have room in
mine since I am a few weeks away from moving my 10 from the garage to
the hanger (now in the painting phase). Would at least like to see you
stop by so I can see your beauties (plane and wife). My cell phone is
(207) 322-6167. Jay Rowe #40301
----- Original Message -----
From: John Testement
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, June 25, 2009 5:18 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Trip to Maine
My wife and I are flying from Richmond VA to Maine next week and are
planning to stop at Nantucket and then to go Bar Harbor and Boothbay. I
would love any recommendations as to what to see and do in Maine of if
there are any other stops that we should make.
_________________________________
John Testement
N311RV
40321
Flying
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
06/25/09 06:22:00
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Trip to Maine |
| From: | ricksked(at)embarqmail.com |
The ATM.....lol...doesn't Maine have some crazy taxes you have to pay if you land
there...not sure but I read about it someplace...
Rick Sked
N246RS
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
-----Original Message-----
From: "John Testement" <jwt(at)roadmapscoaching.com>
Date: Thu, 25 Jun 2009 17:18:12
Subject: RV10-List: Trip to Maine
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Trip to Maine |
| From: | DejaVu <avu1(at)md.metrocast.net> |
Rent bikes and visit the Arcadia State Park.
Anh
N591VU
Flying
On Thu 06/25/09 5:18 PM , "John Testement" jwt(at)roadmapscoaching.com
sent:
My wife and I are flying from Richmond VA to Maine next week and
are planning to stop at Nantucket and then to go Bar Harbor and
Boothbay. I would love any recommendations as to what to see and do in
Maine of if there are any other stops that we should make.
_________________________________
John Testement
N311RV 40321 Flying
HTTP://WWW.MATRONICS.COM/NAVIGATOR?RV10-LIST [1]
HTTP://WWW.MATRONICS.COM/CONTRIBUTION [3]
Links:
------
[1]
http://metromail.metrocast.net/HTTP://WWW.MATRONICS.COM/NAVIGATOR?RV10-LIST
[2] http://metromail.metrocast.net/HTTP://FORUMS.MATRONICS.COM/
[3]
http://metromail.metrocast.net/HTTP://WWW.MATRONICS.COM/CONTRIBUTION
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Trip to Maine |
| From: | Dj Merrill <deej(at)deej.net> |
On 6/25/2009 5:18 PM, John Testement wrote:
> My wife and I are flying from Richmond VA to Maine next week and are
> planning to stop at Nantucket and then to go Bar Harbor and Boothbay. I
Hi John,
Just a heads up that Bar Harbor is one of the airports the TSA is
terrorizing (it is on the list of 454 airports). When you get there be
sure to radio the FBO to get their procedures before randomly walking
out across the ramp.
On 6/25/2009 7:09 PM, ricksked(at)embarqmail.com wrote:
> The ATM.....lol...doesn't Maine have some crazy taxes you have to pay if
> you land there...not sure but I read about it someplace...
Yes, we do, thanks to the idiots in our state gov't. However, if you
are going to be here less than 20 days and/or your plane is older than a
year, you are okay.
I really like the scenery up near Greenville (Moosehead Lake), and
there is a nice little airport there, too.
-Dj
--
Dj Merrill - N1JOV
Sportsman 2+2 Builder #7118 N421DJ
http://deej.net/sportsman/
"Many things that are unexplainable happen during the construction of an
airplane." --Dave Prizio, 30 Aug 2005
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
One other thing. If you buy the E bottle, order the toggle valve handle as
opposed to the wrench. Why carry an extra tool when the toggle handle will
allow the valve to be opened.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "richard sipp" <rsipp(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: a lesson learned |
Another example of the great operational threads that are now coming up
regularly with our growing fleet of flying aircraft.
The Hartzell manual spells out routine greasing procedures in depth and
includes removing and replacing zerks in the process as well
how much to pump in. Depending on my memory (a dangerous thing) a specific
number of strokes on the pump are called out rather than "filling" to
overflow.
Dick Sipp
40065 N110DV flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "richard sipp" <rsipp(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fiberglass fairings question |
Kent:
This is probably as much an aesthetics question as one of durability.
Some people like the "filled in smooth" look and done well will probably
hold up fine.
Another school of thought says small uniform gaps between varying
materials and components also looks very good and there is no problem
with potential cracks.
I have a little of both processes and have seen no cracks so far. Also
used the screw attachment for the lower rudder fairing.
Dick Sipp
Flying
----- Original Message -----
From: Kent Ogden
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, June 25, 2009 11:33 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Fiberglass fairings question
Hi all,
I have a question about the fiberglass fairings on the tail group. If
installed as per the instructions, will the paint at the joint between
fiberglass and Aluminum crack over time with expansion/contraction? I
recall postings about this kind of phenomenon related to the windscreen.
In anyone's opinion, is it worth the effort of glassing over the
joint/rivets and then filling to smooth, or is this just extra
weight/effort? I would like to finish this up before really getting
into my wings so I don't have to come back to it later.
Kent Ogden
#40710 Wings (just barely)
~=B2=03
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Mauledriver Watson <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: a lesson learned |
Yes it is a great example.
I just read my manual - it calls for 1 ounce of grease or until grease
flows out of the removed fitting, whichever occurs first. 1 ounce
equals aprox 6 pumps from hand grease gun.
Thanks for the learning experience.
'
richard sipp wrote:
>
> Another example of the great operational threads that are now coming
> up regularly with our growing fleet of flying aircraft.
>
> The Hartzell manual spells out routine greasing procedures in depth
> and includes removing and replacing zerks in the process as well
> how much to pump in. Depending on my memory (a dangerous thing) a
> specific number of strokes on the pump are called out rather than
> "filling" to overflow.
>
> Dick Sipp
> 40065 N110DV flying
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Hukill" <cjhukill(at)cox.net> |
The link to the NTSB doesn't work, just gives you message "no results".
Any other link?
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV 10 accident |
| From: | ricksked(at)embarqmail.com |
My guess is lost electrical causing dead stick stall spin
while stretching the glide trying to make the highway
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
-----Original Message-----
From: "Chris Hukill" <cjhukill(at)cox.net>
Date: Fri, 26 Jun 2009 09:01:25
Subject: RV10-List: RV 10 accident
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com> |
He was 90 degrees to the highway, but I do agree. I think he was coming
in
long on the first field and was trying to stretch to the other side of
the
road. But that was just from looking at the picture. I always say to
myself, fly the airplane to the ground=85..don=92t let it get there any
other
way.
Rene' Felker
RV-10 N423CF Flying
801-721-6080
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
ricksked(at)embarqmail.com
Sent: Friday, June 26, 2009 10:26 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: RV 10 accident
My guess is lost electrical causing dead stick stall spin while
stretching
the glide trying to make the highway
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
_____
From: "Chris Hukill"
Date: Fri, 26 Jun 2009 09:01:25 -0700
Subject: RV10-List: RV 10 accident
The link to the NTSB doesn't work, just = gives you message "no
results".
Any other = link?
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
The RV10-List Email Forum -
many
more:
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
- MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
List Contribution Web
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
~=B2
_____
r
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: How do you change the VFR code on the Garmin GTX 330 |
| From: | "jacques point" <jacques-point(at)wanadoo.fr> |
Hi all,
I ad the same problem. After days of testing several options, I finally did it.
Dead simple: before you change from 1200 to 7000, don't forget to "DISABLE" the
VFR Key
Let me know if it works please.
Have a safe flight
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=250225#250225
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Home paint job |
| From: | "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall(at)charter.net> |
The last of the painting! ...? Seems like every time we say "last of", we end
up revisiting it at least once more!
It will be great to see how they all fit together, hopefully not too much longer.
Later, - Lew
--------
non-pilot
crazy about building
NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
Painting done!
On with wiring and avionics.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=250239#250239
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/landing_lights2_medium_118.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/wingtips2_medium_172.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/wingtips1_medium_108.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | portable entertainment |
| From: | "n277dl" <dljinia(at)yahoo.com> |
Group,
Trying to finalize wiring runs.... I'd like the capability to hang a portable
video screen over the front seats.
I'm looking for suggestions for places to run the power and audio connection for
the rear seats? Looks like there are a couple primary options... the tunnel...
the cover over the flaps... or the sidewall.
Any recommendations for screens? Can i use a ms zune to drive video screens or
will I need a dvd player?
Thanks in advance.
Doug
--------
Doug
"Fools" are always more creative than process people and will always
find ways to ruin a perfectly good set of processes.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=250260#250260
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Emailing: IMG_0764, IMG_0765, IMG_0766, IMG_0780, IMG_0781, |
IMG_0782
Someone was asking about carpets. Here are some pictures. They match the
dimensions previously supplied
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
Anyone with an SL30?
. http://www.secure4host.net/upload/files/GarminSB0921.pdf
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rob Kermanj <flysrv10(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Emailing: IMG_0764, IMG_0765, IMG_0766, IMG_0780, IMG_0781, |
IMG_0782
who did the carpet?
On Jun 27, 2009, at 11:43 AM, David McNeill wrote:
>
> Someone was asking about carpets. Here are some pictures. They match
> the
> dimensions previously supplied
> <
> IMG_0764
> .jpg
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Emailing: IMG_0764, IMG_0765, IMG_0766, IMG_0780, IMG_0781, |
IMG_0782
Me. I measured , cut and dyed. The carpet supplier of the 100% wool remnant
bound the edges. My only problem is that I still have 90% of the remnant
left so I can buld a few more aircraft (if the boss allows)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rob Kermanj
Sent: Saturday, June 27, 2009 1:17 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Emailing: IMG_0764, IMG_0765, IMG_0766, IMG_0780,
IMG_0781, IMG_0782
who did the carpet?
On Jun 27, 2009, at 11:43 AM, David McNeill wrote:
>
> Someone was asking about carpets. Here are some pictures. They match
> the dimensions previously supplied <
> IMG_0764
> .jpg
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rob Kermanj <flysrv10(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Emailing: IMG_0764, IMG_0765, IMG_0766, IMG_0780, IMG_0781, |
IMG_0782
Good Job.
On Jun 27, 2009, at 5:55 PM, David McNeill wrote:
>
> Me. I measured , cut and dyed. The carpet supplier of the 100% wool
> remnant
> bound the edges. My only problem is that I still have 90% of the
> remnant
> left so I can buld a few more aircraft (if the boss allows)
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rob Kermanj
> Sent: Saturday, June 27, 2009 1:17 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Emailing: IMG_0764, IMG_0765, IMG_0766,
> IMG_0780,
> IMG_0781, IMG_0782
>
>
> who did the carpet?
>
>
> On Jun 27, 2009, at 11:43 AM, David McNeill wrote:
>
>>
>> Someone was asking about carpets. Here are some pictures. They match
>> the dimensions previously supplied <
>> IMG_0764
>> .jpg
>>>
>> <
>> IMG_0765.jpg>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Les Kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Fibreglass fasteners |
Hi
I am working on my canopy and have a small access cover that I want to
attach. What are the recommended fasteners for fibreglass? Ideally I would
like to be able to use small screws but need to know the best way to attach
the screws to the canopy.
Any suggestions from the fibreglass mavens?
Cheers
Les
#40643 - Living in a fibreglass world
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | davidsoutpost(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | Re: Trip to Maine |
I will assume you will be renting a car to get around.=C2- I have never b
een to Boothbay itself=C2- =C2- but spend a lot of time midcoast, or "D
owneast" as it's called. =C2-We own property on Cape Jellison in Stockton
Springs and spend a lot of our time exploring all the small quaint nooks,
crannies=C2-and towns =C2- along the jutting coast..=C2- You will mos
t definitely want to see=C2-Acadia National Park.=C2- Make reservations
to take the carriage horse tour if you like that type of stuff.=C2-=C2
-=C2- =C2- Bar Harbor has whale watching boat tours if you like that
stuff.=C2- Southwest Harbor on Mt. Desert Island has a deep sea fishing
=C2- boat that takes out=C2-about 30 people at a time on a modified lob
ster boat.=C2- On the way out to the fishing grounds everyone gets a numb
er on a peice of paper.=C2- They have lots of lobster traps set out =C2
-and stop at one trap for every passenger starting at trap #1.=C2-=C2
- What ever is in that trap that is legal is given to the person who has
that number.=C2-=C2-Then you hit the fishing grounds a fish.=C2- Deck
hands clean the catch on the way back.=C2- Bonuses are seal watching and
maybe a whale sighting!=C2- Reservations are recommended.=C2- =C2-
=C2- Its a lot of fun for both the adults and the kids and is one of the
things I look most forward to.=C2- They have no website but here is their
info: http://maps.google.com/maps?hl=en&rlz=1T4GGLL_enUS322US322&ei=
NchHSuPRFI-OMcva8KcB&resnum=0&um=1&ie=UTF-8&q=vagabond+deep+sea+fis
hing+maine&fb=1&split=1&gl=us&view=text&latlng=648616212581774975
7 =C2-=C2- South of Bar Harbor there is a lot to see also. =C2-=C2-
=C2- Castine is a real working harbor and is worth the drive.=C2- There
's a restaurant right on the wharf in Stonington that has excellent food ca
lled either The Wharf or Fishermans Wharf,,,,,I can not remember.=C2-=C2
-=C2- If you are driving down the coast near Stockton Springs,,,,be sur
e to stop at our favorite restaurant called "Just Barb's".=C2- Its a smal
l diner that has been around just about forever and has the best fried whol
e clams (steamers) I have ever had.=C2- You need to have a big appetite t
o finish off any of their basket's.=C2-=C2- A few miles further down th
e coast=C2- in Searsport is=C2-"The Angler's" restaurant.=C2- Lobster
is market=C2-priced and last fall the Twin Lobster dinner was $24.99 for
1-1/4 pound lobsters. =C2- Maine IS NOT the place to go if you are watch
ing your calorie or fat intake!=C2- =C2-I have never been to the airpor
t but Owls Head has a fly-in every summer.=C2- They have a neat transport
ation museum with planes, trains, and automobiles.=C2- Its a pretty big d
eal up there and y ou may want to look into it.=C2- Isleboro Island is th
e "in" place for the stars.=C2- They have a short paved runway and I don'
t know if rental cars are available.=C2- Its a working island and is acce
ssible =C2-by ferry boat or plane only.=C2- John Travolta and Kirsten A
lley both own homes there in Dark Harbor. =C2- We do all our shopping in
Belfast.=C2- They are on the harbor and the airport is nearby.=C2- Its
a nice airport and you can arrange a ride into town to shop.=C2-=C2- Se
e Camden if your wife likes shopping!=C2-=C2- There is a lot to see and
do in Maine so enjoy!=C2- We are heading there in August for two weeks v
ia car,,,a 16 hour drive for us,,, but AOPA =C2-flight plans a 4.25 hour
flight under no wind conditions =C2-if I ever get my -10 fin ished!=C2-
Have a nice flight!=C2-
Dave Clifford
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Testement" <jwt(at)roadmapscoaching.com>
Sent: Thursday, June 25, 2009 5:18:12 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern
Subject: RV10-List: Trip to Maine
My wife and I are flying from Richmond VA to Maine next week and are planni
ng to stop at Nantucket and then to go Bar Harbor and Boothbay. I would lov
e any recommendations as to what to see and do in Maine of if there are any
other stops that we should make.
_________________________________
John Testement
N311RV
40321
Flying
==
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fibreglass fasteners |
Les, depending on the use of the cover, If it's going to be removed
infrequently and is not subject to a lot of direct vibration,
countersink the fiberglass and use a countersunk AN screw. As you know
fiberglass can 'wallow' around any hole if it's not very thick, In these
cases you can use a countersunk washer to backup the screw and prevent
the wallowing. If you want to go one step further and hide the
countersunk washers, I just helped a friend on the field who was redoing
his wheel pants, and we used a spot face to relieve the fiberglass
surface just enough enough to embed the countersunk washers in flox,
then cleaned everything up and filled the washers with Metal Glaze, used
a countersink to clean out the hole, sanded, primed and painted, It
looks great and is stronger than just the glass itself.
Deems
Les Kearney wrote:
>
> Hi
>
> I am working on my canopy and have a small access cover that I want to
> attach. What are the recommended fasteners for fibreglass? Ideally I
> would like to be able to use small screws but need to know the best
> way to attach the screws to the canopy.
>
> Any suggestions from the fibreglass mavens?
>
> Cheers
>
> Les
>
> #40643 Living in a fibreglass world
>
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fibreglass fasteners |
| From: | ricksked(at)embarqmail.com |
Lol.....glassing in CS washers....guess I'm not as anal as I thought I was....there
is someone worse!!!
Rick Sked
N246RS
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
-----Original Message-----
From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net>
Date: Sun, 28 Jun 2009 16:13:51
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fibreglass fasteners
Les, depending on the use of the cover, If it's going to be removed
infrequently and is not subject to a lot of direct vibration,
countersink the fiberglass and use a countersunk AN screw. As you know
fiberglass can 'wallow' around any hole if it's not very thick, In these
cases you can use a countersunk washer to backup the screw and prevent
the wallowing. If you want to go one step further and hide the
countersunk washers, I just helped a friend on the field who was redoing
his wheel pants, and we used a spot face to relieve the fiberglass
surface just enough enough to embed the countersunk washers in flox,
then cleaned everything up and filled the washers with Metal Glaze, used
a countersink to clean out the hole, sanded, primed and painted, It
looks great and is stronger than just the glass itself.
Deems
Les Kearney wrote:
>
> Hi
>
> I am working on my canopy and have a small access cover that I want to
> attach. What are the recommended fasteners for fibreglass? Ideally I
> would like to be able to use small screws but need to know the best
> way to attach the screws to the canopy.
>
> Any suggestions from the fibreglass mavens?
>
> Cheers
>
> Les
>
> #40643 Living in a fibreglass world
>
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: First Flight |
| From: | "partner14" <building_partner(at)yahoo.com> |
Well the 40 hours have been flown off.... now the world is open for us to fly over.
The planes first flight was on the 9th of June, and it has been in the air
every day since then.... 2 times on several days, and 3 times on one. Unfortunately,
at the same time we completed phase I the temps have gone over the
century mark. So far Kim has been aboard for a couple of flights, one to dinner
at Nancy's in Willows, the other to Auburn for breakfast. Yesterday in the
late afternoon my brother, Dave, and his wife, Sue, braved the temps and made
seperate flights around the Lincoln airport. They were both very impressed.
Although the temps were still hot, the air was very calm, so the plane was so
smooth it was practically unbelievable. So far there are 4 of us that now know
what the Van's family is talking about when they refer to the RV grin! My
friend Tim said it best, "it's hard to believe that this was once just a pile
of parts".
Don McDonald
#40636
Will go out tonight and get current with night landings.
--------
Don A. McDonald
40636
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=250527#250527
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_3136_160.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Wing Bolt Installation made easy or at least precise |
| From: | "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> |
The day finally came to put in the final close tolerance wing bolts. We all know
how much we do NOT want to screw up this job. With no room for error I was quite
nervous approaching the task. Best to have three people for the job
I used three drift pins in the first wing and four in the second. I recommend that
you spend a few extra bucks and get 4 in each wing. Or do one at a time with
four. This gets the wing and fuse more aligned. It may be only a few 10,000
of an inch but it matters. Also remove the fore and aft spar bolts if previously
installed It helps twist the wing to align the holes.
Then I got some dry ice to cool the bolts down really low. I took the 8 large bolts
and put them on the 3M wheel VERY LIGHTLY to remove the minute ridge between
the threads and the shaft of the bolts. This way if you are hanging on a misalignment
between the pieces, it will slide on thru without buggering the junction
area.
Put the bolts in the cooler for 15-20 minutes but not right on the dry ice. Then
put on a pair of latex/nitrile gloves. As you need the bolts, pull them out
and holding them by the threads spray the shaft with LP2 or LP3. Then slap it
in the hole. use a 12"x1"x2" piece of oak or hardwood as a dowel to push the on
thru. Then use a rubber mallet or if needed - your rivet gun to push the bolts
on thru. Have one friend lift the wing to unload the end and have the other
friend hold the wood dowel against the bolt so that it does not slip off. I had
to rivet a few bolts really hard, but one bolt actually slid in with a press
of the fingers. Neeedless to say when they heated up to room temp they are in
VERY solid. I also heated the spars with a heat gun between the top bolts and
the bottom bolts. Replacing the front and rear spar bolts afterward is no sweat
with your wingtip friend twisting and moving the wing for and aft.
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there someday
Q/B Kit - FWF end game
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=250533#250533
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
We have had six first flights from our back porch in the last two months. A
pair of doves built a rental unit on our trellis. There have been 3 pairs
occupying the same nest over the time period. My wife just cleans up under
the unit and a new pair moves in. My wife and daughter are watching for
another first flight right now. If you think the RV10 first flight gives
pause . Imagine the first flight, first lesson, and first solo all rolled
into one.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Trip to Maine |
| From: | "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> |
Great thing in Maine:
Eat a lobster dinner
Visit the Bushes in Kennebunkport
Salem witch tour & museum (Mass - but on the way)
Campobello International Park - Roosevelt's vacation digs
Acadia Park - nice but busy in summer and over-rated
LL Bean shop in Freeport, ME
Eat a lobster dinner
Eat a lobster dinner
Buy lobsters to take home
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there someday
Q/B Kit - FWF end game
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=250535#250535
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: First Flight |
| From: | "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> |
Don't the new high flyers have to supply the beer at OSH?
Congratulations - safe flying.
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there someday
Q/B Kit - FWF end game
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=250537#250537
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fibreglass fasteners |
Careful, the Groupies are restless!
Deems
ricksked(at)embarqmail.com wrote:
>
> Lol.....glassing in CS washers....guess I'm not as anal as I thought I was....there
is someone worse!!!
>
> Rick Sked
> N246RS
> Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net>
>
> Date: Sun, 28 Jun 2009 16:13:51
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fibreglass fasteners
>
>
> Les, depending on the use of the cover, If it's going to be removed
> infrequently and is not subject to a lot of direct vibration,
> countersink the fiberglass and use a countersunk AN screw. As you know
> fiberglass can 'wallow' around any hole if it's not very thick, In these
> cases you can use a countersunk washer to backup the screw and prevent
> the wallowing. If you want to go one step further and hide the
> countersunk washers, I just helped a friend on the field who was redoing
> his wheel pants, and we used a spot face to relieve the fiberglass
> surface just enough enough to embed the countersunk washers in flox,
> then cleaned everything up and filled the washers with Metal Glaze, used
> a countersink to clean out the hole, sanded, primed and painted, It
> looks great and is stronger than just the glass itself.
>
>
> Deems
>
> Les Kearney wrote:
>
>> Hi
>>
>> I am working on my canopy and have a small access cover that I want to
>> attach. What are the recommended fasteners for fibreglass? Ideally I
>> would like to be able to use small screws but need to know the best
>> way to attach the screws to the canopy.
>>
>> Any suggestions from the fibreglass mavens?
>>
>> Cheers
>>
>> Les
>>
>> #40643 Living in a fibreglass world
>>
>> *
>>
>>
>> *
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "T.C. Chang" <tc1234c(at)roadrunner.com> |
Just got back from a trip and read your message. Here is a link to
photos we
took at Acadia. It may give you some ideas (I like the last picture is
most).
http://picasaweb.google.com/tc1234c/9252008Acadia#
Martha's Vineyard:
http://picasaweb.google.com/tc1234c/9212008MarthaSVineyardLunch#
Ted
------------------------------------------
T.C. Chang
<http://3limafoxtrot.com/> http://3limafoxtrot.com/
RV-9A, Lycoming (ECI) O320-D2A, 160 hp, Carb, left Mag + right
Lightspeed
EI, Sensenich FP
GRT dual DU H1, TT DigiFlight II VSGV, 605 hrs Hobbs
Last flight:
<http://www.mail2600.com/cgi-bin/track.cgi?call=KD8IIR&last=1>
http://www.mail2600.com/cgi-bin/track.cgi?call=KD8IIR&last=1
RV10 emp done, #40948, N718PF reserved
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John
Testement
Sent: Thursday, June 25, 2009 5:18 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Trip to Maine
My wife and I are flying from Richmond VA to Maine next week and are
planning to stop at Nantucket and then to go Bar Harbor and Boothbay. I
would love any recommendations as to what to see and do in Maine of if
there
are any other stops that we should make.
_________________________________
John Testement
N311RV
40321
Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | rod end bearing jam nuts |
| From: | "jayb" <jaybrinkmeyer(at)yahoo.com> |
I don't recall this topic being discussed, but may have just missed it...
Is there a source for deducing the proper torque required for securing rod end
bearing jam nuts? There may be several different values to consider as aileron
fasteners use smaller sized nuts than for torque tubes.
Thanks in advance for any pointers.
Regards,
Jay
Looking forward to working on something other than baffles
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=250721#250721
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: rod end bearing jam nuts |
| From: | "nukeflyboy" <flymoore(at)charter.net> |
I don't recall ever seeing separate torque specs for jam nuts. I have always made
them snug. Don't use an oversized wrench and make them tool tight. If you
are concerned then use a crow's foot and the same torque value for the standard
size nut.
--------
Dave Moore
RV-6 flying
RV-10 QB - cabin top/fiberglass hell
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=250733#250733
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: rod end bearing jam nuts |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
That would be crow's foot with calculation to account for the added leverage
to arrive at torque value for standard nut.....which will be noticeably
smaller number. In reality, if the nut is snug enough if you can't loosen
with your fingers. Doesn't take even one flat after contact to be tight
enough.
Had reminder over the weekend of overtorque. Tried to remove oil filter on
friends plane, last serviced by a shop. Either they didn't use DC-4, oil or
any lube on the gasket, or applied way too much torque. Likely will take
extraordinary measures to remove.
On Tue, Jun 30, 2009 at 5:57 AM, nukeflyboy wrote:
>
> I don't recall ever seeing separate torque specs for jam nuts. I have
> always made them snug. Don't use an oversized wrench and make them tool
> tight. If you are concerned then use a crow's foot and the same torque
> value for the standard size nut.
>
> --------
> Dave Moore
> RV-6 flying
> RV-10 QB - cabin top/fiberglass hell
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=250733#250733
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | parking at RNO air races |
Just got a note from RNO regards air race parking. I had considered
attending for a couple of days.
"
I have more information regarding the Air Race Tie-down parking this year.
Our rate for single engine tie-down in the dirt is $84.80. You do not taxi
in or out of the dirt we have an experienced line guy that does all the
towing in and out of the dirt. We also have limited ramp parking for single
engine aircraft and the rate for that is $106.00. The rates I have just
quoted you are a flat fee from September 16 - 21. If you would like to
reserve a tie-down we are asking for payment in advance. I will need to get
a credit card number and a mailing address so I can send you a copy of your
parking receipt. Please if you have any questions give me a call at
775-825-6400.
Thank you,
Chrissy
Jet West Reno"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob and Karen Brown" <bkbrown(at)minetfiber.com> |
| Subject: | NACA vent location(s) in rear |
Can anyone post a pic of where you located the NACA vents to run air to
overhead console vents? Are you happy with the location and do you have any
problem with moisture?
Thanks!
Bob Brown
Independence, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | NACA vent location(s) in rear |
| From: | "Robin Marks" <robin1(at)mrmoisture.com> |
Bob,
I am on the road now and don't have a good construction
photo on my notebook but here is an exterior photo that shows the most
common location for the NACA vent. It works great. Some say that you
only need one vent vs. one on each side but as far as I can tell
everyone still installs two vents. The cooling of an OH console is one
of the nicest mods you can do for comfort.
Robin
http://www.painttheweb.com/rv-10/console.htm
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob and Karen
Brown
Sent: Tuesday, June 30, 2009 8:09 AM
Subject: RV10-List: NACA vent location(s) in rear
Can anyone post a pic of where you located the NACA vents to run air to
overhead console vents? Are you happy with the location and do you have
any problem with moisture?
Thanks!
Bob Brown
Independence, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: window fitting - gap between flange and plexi |
| From: | Rob Kochman <rv10rob(at)gmail.com> |
Thanks, all... I called Van's and they also recommended building up the
flange. It looks like it should be necessary on the top and bottom only.
Though annoying, I'm cautiously optimistic it won't be a big deal.
-Rob
On Sun, Jun 21, 2009 at 7:04 PM, John Ackerman wrote
:
> Gaps like yours make the Weld-On work really miserable, especially on a
> vertical surface. Enough glue to fill the gap will run like crazy and the
n
> the gap is not filled. I had to cut my starboard rear window out with a
> router and start over with a new one. I covered the new window with
> packing tape and wax near the frame, determined the proper number of
> washers/shims to set it out almost flush with the fiberglass ' very sli
ghtly
> (< 1/32") recessed. I then filled between the window and the frame with v
ery
> thick West System epoxy using cabosil and high density filler from West
> system. I held the windows in place with clecoes and bent tabs.
> When the epoxy had mostly set, I removed the windows, let the epoxy cure
> overnight, and cleaned up the mess. This effectively make a good-fitting
> casting that required only a thin and consistent layer of Weld-On. This
> procedure was much easier than trying to do it with just Weld-On. It came
> out nice and was easy to blend to the fiberglass.
> Good luck!
> John Ackerman 40458
>
> On Jun 21, 2009, at 3:24 PM, Rob Kochman wrote:
>
> I trimmed one of the rear windows to fit. It looks great on the outside
,
> but on the inside there's a considerable gap (maybe 1/16") between the pl
exi
> and the window flange in places. Is this okay? Does the weld-on fill th
is
> gap, or am I doing something wrong?
>
> Thanks...
>
> -Rob
>
> --
> Rob Kochman
> RV-10 Wings
> Woodinville, WA (near Seattle)
> http://kochman.net/N819K
>
> *
>
> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic
s.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
ontribution
> *
>
>
> *
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
> *
>
>
--
Rob Kochman
RV-10 Wings
Woodinville, WA (near Seattle)
http://kochman.net/N819K
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: NACA vent location(s) in rear |
Start here:
http://deemsrv10.com/album/Sec%2043%20Cabin%20Cover/slides/DSC04399.html
and click forward (Next image)
Deems
N519PJ
www.deemsrv10.com
Bob and Karen Brown wrote:
>
> Can anyone post a pic of where you located the NACA vents to run air
> to overhead console vents? Are you happy with the location and do you
> have any problem with moisture?
>
>
>
> Thanks!
>
> Bob Brown
>
> Independence, OR
>
>
>
>
>
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Interior thoughts - Flightline or anything else? |
| From: | Rob Kochman <rv10rob(at)gmail.com> |
Is Flightline the only game in town when it comes to a full interior for the
RV-10? I'm also curious how their seat upholstry compares to some of the
other options. I can imagine having the seats upholstered professionally
(rather than slipping on something from a kit) would look/fit better.
-Rob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Interior thoughts - Flightline or anything else? |
Hey Rob,
FYI, I also had the same questions, so when the interior came, I took it
to my local street rod upholstery shop to see what he thought. He was
impressed with the attention to detail and craftsmanship (he started
talking about types of stitching, etc.) and said there was no way he
could compete with the price since he would have to either start from
scratch as a custom job or destroy Flightline's to get a pattern (not an
option!). That was enough to satisfy my curiosity. And by the way,
whoever makes the covers, they still have to be "slipped on" -- and they
look terrific.
Later, - Lew
----- Original Message -----
From: Rob Kochman
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, June 30, 2009 4:32 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Interior thoughts - Flightline or anything else?
Is Flightline the only game in town when it comes to a full interior
for the RV-10? I'm also curious how their seat upholstry compares to
some of the other options. I can imagine having the seats upholstered
professionally (rather than slipping on something from a kit) would
look/fit better.
-Rob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lee Otto" <lotto(at)ciembroidery.com> |
| Subject: | Rivet Head Products soon available from Rod Bower Aviation |
There has been so much Rivet Head conversation of late I thought everyone
should know that a very good change is afoot:
RIVET HEAD AERO IS STILL ALIVE AND WELL
SOON TO BE UNDER NEW MANAGEMENT WITH THE SAME AWESOME MACHINE WORK AND PARTS
David Czachorowski has agreed to provide the Rivet Head products thru
ROD BOWER AVIATION along with my RAMAIRFORHOMEBUILTS.COM product line. I
will be maintaining an inventory of David's most popular items.
I plan to set up PAY-PAL billing option that is Invoice Activated when parts
are shipped.
There will be a link to my E-Mail address
N180RB(at)GMAIL.COM to handle questions regarding parts and shipping dates.
David has assured me he will take care of existing business by the end of
July.
ROD BOWER
CELL 559-972-6291
<http://www.ramairforhomebuilts.com/> WWW.ramairforhomebuilts.com
n180rb(at)gmail.com
Lee Otto
intalling brake, flap and stick controls
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Interior thoughts - Flightline or anything else? |
| From: | "aerosport1" <g.combs(at)aerosportmodeling.com> |
New RV-10 interior panels coming soon
I am in final development of a complete interior set for the RV-10. It will look
more like the Cirrus and will cover all rivets, nuts and bolts. It will
be able to be left as is in a ABS textured as the airline plastic parts or can
be painted with texture left as is or covered with your favorite material. All
parts are designed in Cad and fit the RV-10 very good. Side panels will be available
from the front all the way to the back baggage compartment bulkhead. Even
a cover for right over the baggage door rivet line.
Also the rear passenger vents will have Automotive type air vents that can be fit
into the side panels and will have a slider knob directly in the center so
you can open and close the vents easily. The tools are complete from for the rear
seats back. We are in the final design stages of the front panels. They will
have an area for a cup holder like the Cirrus that pops out and also a spot
for a fire extinguisher.
I should have picture of the rear panels in a couple weeks.
Geoff Combs
--------
Geoff Combs
RV-10 QB N829GW
Finishing
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=250850#250850
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Wing Bolt Installation made easy or at least precise |
| From: | "cjay" <cgfinney(at)yahoo.com> |
any idea where to get LP2 or 3? What is it?
cjay
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=250855#250855
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: rod end bearing jam nuts |
| From: | "McGann, Ron" <Ron.McGann(at)thalesgroup.com.au> |
I replaced my oil filter for the first time recently and had one heck of
a time getting it off. I believe it had been installed by lycoming (it
was the original filter) and was waaaay tighter than it needed to be. I
eventually got it off after using an automotive strap style filter
wrench and stubby wrench on the end of the filter, but it did not look
too flash after that.
The new one was installed and properly torqued with the wrench available
from avery (thanks Patrick!).
Cheers
Ron
VH-XRM
Flying in Oz
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly
McMullen
Sent: Tuesday, 30 June 2009 11:52 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: rod end bearing jam nuts
That would be crow's foot with calculation to account for the added
leverage
to arrive at torque value for standard nut.....which will be noticeably
smaller number. In reality, if the nut is snug enough if you can't
loosen
with your fingers. Doesn't take even one flat after contact to be tight
enough.
Had reminder over the weekend of overtorque. Tried to remove oil filter
on
friends plane, last serviced by a shop. Either they didn't use DC-4, oil
or
any lube on the gasket, or applied way too much torque. Likely will take
extraordinary measures to remove.
On Tue, Jun 30, 2009 at 5:57 AM, nukeflyboy
wrote:
>
> I don't recall ever seeing separate torque specs for jam nuts. I have
> always made them snug. Don't use an oversized wrench and make them
tool
> tight. If you are concerned then use a crow's foot and the same
torque
> value for the standard size nut.
>
> --------
> Dave Moore
> RV-6 flying
> RV-10 QB - cabin top/fiberglass hell
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=250733#250733
>
>
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pascal" <pascal(at)rv10builder.net> |
| Subject: | Fw: Vertical Power feedback |
I thought I would share my excellent experience with Marc Ausman from
Vertical Power www.verticalpower.com. One piece of the building I was
regretting was the electrical wiring and how to figure it all out. Marc
had a booth at the Goldenwest fly-in a couple of weekends ago, as well
as a presentation on the benefits of the Vertical power design. Nothing
unusual for a vendor, even one that had people constantly asking
questions about their product, what I found amazing was the patience
Marc had discussing all my questions, something that exceeded 1 hour of
his time dedicated to making sure I was clear on his answers. I have
spent a numerous amount of time at AOPA conferences to know that getting
this level of attention is becoming rare, especially if one looks at a
major GPS company that had as much attention as VP did and really didn't
have more than 5 minutes to tell me to come to their seminar for any
questions. What really is leading me to praise Vertical power is the
fact that Marc told me at Goldenwest and literally followed through
yesterday with going over my planning sheet and practically redoing it
all for the best possible setup, that took over (another) hour of his
time, This level of support which will save me numerous hours if not
days of work if I had followed my "concept" of a working wiring setup.
If there is anyone who is on the fence on whether to use Solid State
circuitry versus the old circuit breaker/fuses concept I encourage you
to seriously look at Vertical Power, they are a little expensive at
first glance but as Jesse covered a year ago, the difference between the
old fashion fuses, and the time to implement it all, versus the Vertical
Power design and additional features is really not all that much in the
end.
They are right on for customer service; they are excellent on
"patiently" answering any questions and the safety benefits of their
product really is not even comparable to anything else out there.
No stock in the company, just sharing a good experience with hopes it
helps anyone out there that will be doing their own electrical wiring
and not sure how to do it.
If you're going to OSH, take the time to talk to Marc, that alone may
convince you!
Pascal
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Wing Bolt Installation made easy or at least precise |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
I believe he meant "LPS-2" or "LPS-3". These are spray lubricants available at
many hardware stores (ACE, etc.).
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=250859#250859
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Vertical Power feedback |
| From: | "dmaib(at)mac.com" <dmaib(at)mac.com> |
Pascal,
It will be one year next week since I first saw my Vertical Power fired up in my
panel at SteinAir. I spent some time over the 4th of July weekend last year
sitting in the shop at SteinAir doing initial setup on the system. I remember
leaving that first evening and thinking that this was one nice system! First flight
was in November and I now have well over 100 hours on the airplane. I can
report that what you experienced with Marc is the norm at Vertical Power. I
have had no major problems and very few minor issues. Marc and Kevin at VP have
always been fast to respond and have given me great support for those times
I needed help. Marc and his team continue to improve the product. The system is
fantastic and keeps getting better. I believe it is well worth the money.
--------
David Maib
RV-10 #40559
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=250874#250874
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_1574_119.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Wing Bolt Installation made easy or at least precise |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
LPS2 or LPS3, common aircraft spray lubes. 2 is lighter, thinner, 3 is more
for corrosion protection, thicker oil.
On Tue, Jun 30, 2009 at 3:45 PM, cjay wrote:
>
> any idea where to get LP2 or 3? What is it?
>
> cjay
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=250855#250855
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Les Kearney <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Fw: Vertical Power feedback |
Hi
I have to echo these comments - Marc has been very helpful in
designing my electrical system. I have had more than a few calls with
him - he is a great resource with an equally stellar product.
Cheers
Les
#40643
Sent from my iPhone
On 2009-06-30, at 4:52 PM, pascal wrote:
> I thought I would share my excellent experience with Marc Ausman
> from Vertical Power www.verticalpower.com. One piece of the building
> I was regretting was the electrical wiring and how to figure it all
> out. Marc had a booth at the Goldenwest fly-in a couple of weekends
> ago, as well as a presentation on the benefits of the Vertical power
> design. Nothing unusual for a vendor, even one that had people
> constantly asking questions about their product, what I found
> amazing was the patience Marc had discussing all my questions,
> something that exceeded 1 hour of his time dedicated to making sure
> I was clear on his answers. I have spent a numerous amount of time
> at AOPA conferences to know that getting this level of attention is
> becoming rare, especially if one looks at a major GPS company that
> had as much attention as VP did and really didn't have more than 5
> minutes to tell me to come to their seminar for any questions. What
> really is leading me to praise Vertical power is the fact that Marc
> told me at Goldenwest and literally followed through yesterday with
> going over my planning sheet and practically redoing it all for the
> best possible setup, that took over (another) hour of his time,
> This level of support which will save me numerous hours if not days
> of work if I had followed my "concept" of a working wiring setup.
> If there is anyone who is on the fence on whether to use Solid State
> circuitry versus the old circuit breaker/fuses concept I encourage
> you to seriously look at Vertical Power, they are a little expensive
> at first glance but as Jesse covered a year ago, the difference
> between the old fashion fuses, and the time to implement it all,
> versus the Vertical Power design and additional features is really
> not all that much in the end.
> They are right on for customer service; they are excellent on
> "patiently" answering any questions and the safety benefits of their
> product really is not even comparable to anything else out there.
> No stock in the company, just sharing a good experience with hopes
> it helps anyone out there that will be doing their own electrical
> wiring and not sure how to do it.
> If you're going to OSH, take the time to talk to Marc, that alone
> may convince you!
>
> Pascal
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Patrick Pulis <rv10free2fly(at)yahoo.com.au> |
| Subject: | Re: NACA vent location(s) in rear |
Deems, could you (or anyone else with the overhead fitted) please indicate
if-only one vent would be sufficient to provide enough ram air to the ove
rhead console?=0A=0AHas anyone considered the need to install mesh over the
NACA vent holes to keep out the 'critters' or would foam inserts be suffic
ient when parked, especially when travelling away.- =0A=0AWe have plenty
of little flying 'critters' her 'down under' and no doubt you have similar
problems with 'critters' up over?=0A=0ARegards=0A=0APatrick Pulis=0AAdelaid
e, South Australia=0A=0A-=0A=0A=0A=0A________________________________=0AF
rom: Deems Davis =0ATo: rv10-list(at)matronics.com=0ASent:
Wednesday, 1 July, 2009 2:55:37 AM=0ASubject: Re: RV10-List: NACA vent loc
vis@cox.net>=0A=0AStart here:=0A=0Ahttp://deemsrv10.com/album/Sec%2043%20Ca
bin%20Cover/slides/DSC04399.html=0A=0Aand click forward (Next image)=0A=0AD
eems=0AN519PJ=0Awww.deemsrv10.com=0A=0ABob and Karen Brown wrote:=0A> =0A>
Can anyone post a pic of where you located the NACA vents to run air to ove
rhead console vents?- Are you happy with the location and do you have any
problem with moisture?=0A> =0A>- =0A> Thanks!=0A> =0A> Bob Brown=0A> =0A
-========================
============0A=0A=0A ___________________________
_________________________________________________________=0AAccess Yahoo!7
Mail on your mobile. Anytime. Anywhere.=0AShow me how: http://au.mobile.yah
oo.com/mail
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Vertical Power feedback |
| From: | "dmaib(at)mac.com" <dmaib(at)mac.com> |
I was remiss not to mention that Stein and his team did a great job of actually
building my beautiful panel with the Vertical Power installation. Doug Law, who
was my main contact and the person that helped me work through all of the design
issues, and Dave, who actually built the panel. There were others at SteinAir
that helped as well. Really a first class operation. Of course, my wife
brought homemade cookies and brownies to the shop at strategic times. [Wink]
--------
David Maib
RV-10 #40559
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=250883#250883
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "tganster" <taganster(at)gmail.com> |
Has anyone used anything other than "aircraft" insulation in the floor of their
-10? I am looking for a less expensive alternative.
--------
Tom Ganster 40778 Fuselage
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=250887#250887
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Vertical Power feedback |
| From: | "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> |
I have to agree. Marc has patiently talked me through a lot of issues and I trust
him completely. My panel is currently being put together at Aerotronics as
we speak, and he is working closely with them. Couldn't ask for better customer
service.
John
--------
#40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished. Finish Kit started.
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=250888#250888
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
| Subject: | NACA vent location(s) in rear |
I asked the question about a month ago, so you should be able to find all
the responses in the archive. The consensus was that one naca would
provide more than enough air, but most recommended installing two.
I know of one builder that is installing remote controlled servos to open
and close the scat tube opening at the bulkhead to minimize the excessive
air flow.
I am planning on putting some fiberglass screen to keep the critters at bay.
I'm thinking about installing the screen right at the naca vent to keep the
critters from nesting in the scat tube.
If you haven't purchased your overhead yet, they'll be a new carbon fiber
overhead available soon. Look for details closer to OSH. If you have a
pink canopy, I can guarantee that it will fit perfectly unlike some of the
offerings from other vendors.
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Patrick Pulis
Sent: Tuesday, June 30, 2009 9:23 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: NACA vent location(s) in rear
Deems, could you (or anyone else with the overhead fitted) please indicate
if only one vent would be sufficient to provide enough ram air to the
overhead console?
Has anyone considered the need to install mesh over the NACA vent holes to
keep out the 'critters' or would foam inserts be sufficient when parked,
especially when travelling away.
We have plenty of little flying 'critters' her 'down under' and no doubt you
have similar problems with 'critters' up over?
Regards
Patrick Pulis
Adelaide, South Australia
_____
From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net>
Sent: Wednesday, 1 July, 2009 2:55:37 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: NACA vent location(s) in rear
Start here:
http://deemsrv10.com/album/Sec%2043%20Cabin%20Cover/slides/DSC04399.html
and click forward (Next image)
Deems
N519PJ
www.deemsrv10.com
Bob and Karen Brown wrote:
>
> Can anyone post a pic of where you located the NACA vents to run air to
overhead console vents? Are you happy with the location and do you have any
problem with moisture?
>
>
> Thanks!
>
> Bob Brown
>
> Independence, OR
>
>
>
> *
>0-List" target=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
===
_____
Access Yahoo!7 Mail on your mobile. Anytime. Anywhere. Show me how
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.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> |
Yes, I have. I went with Abesco FP200. It's a foam-in-a-can product similar to
Great Stuff but is infinitely better for airplanes, in my opinion. Sticks to aluminum,
fire proof for hours, doesn't "over expand" like Great Stuff, and gives
a real solid feel to the floors. A can covers about a cubic foot. You will
need a little over two cans to completely fill all four floors.
John
--------
#40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished. Finish Kit started.
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=250892#250892
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/abesco_fp200_s_196.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cumins" <jcumins(at)jcis.net> |
Can you send us pics of this installed. PLEASE
John G. Cumins
President
JC'S Interactive Systems
2499 B1 Martin Rd
Fairfield Ca 94533
707-425-7100
707-425-7576 Fax
Your Total Technology Solution Provider
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of johngoodman
Sent: Tuesday, June 30, 2009 7:03 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: insulation
Yes, I have. I went with Abesco FP200. It's a foam-in-a-can product similar
to Great Stuff but is infinitely better for airplanes, in my opinion. Sticks
to aluminum, fire proof for hours, doesn't "over expand" like Great Stuff,
and gives a real solid feel to the floors. A can covers about a cubic foot.
You will need a little over two cans to completely fill all four floors.
John
--------
#40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished. Finish Kit started.
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=250892#250892
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/abesco_fp200_s_196.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob and Karen Brown" <bkbrown(at)minetfiber.com> |
| Subject: | NACA vent location(s) in rear |
I installed an aluminum screen mesh on the naca vent holes on my RV7A, and
would certainly recommend it.no fun having wasps cruising around inside your
airplane on short final.
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Patrick Pulis
Sent: Tuesday, June 30, 2009 6:23 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: NACA vent location(s) in rear
Deems, could you (or anyone else with the overhead fitted) please indicate
if only one vent would be sufficient to provide enough ram air to the
overhead console?
Has anyone considered the need to install mesh over the NACA vent holes to
keep out the 'critters' or would foam inserts be sufficient when parked,
especially when travelling away.
We have plenty of little flying 'critters' her 'down under' and no doubt you
have similar problems with 'critters' up over?
Regards
Patrick Pulis
Adelaide, South Australia
_____
From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net>
Sent: Wednesday, 1 July, 2009 2:55:37 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: NACA vent location(s) in rear
Start here:
http://deemsrv10.com/album/Sec%2043%20Cabin%20Cover/slides/DSC04399.html
and click forward (Next image)
Deems
N519PJ
www.deemsrv10.com
Bob and Karen Brown wrote:
>
> Can anyone post a pic of where you located the NACA vents to run air to
overhead console vents? Are you happy with the location and do you have any
problem with moisture?
>
>
> Thanks!
>
> Bob Brown
>
> Independence, OR
>
>
>
> *
>0-List" target=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
===
_____
Access Yahoo!7 Mail on your mobile. Anytime. Anywhere. Show me how
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.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Wing Bolt Installation made easy or at least precise |
| From: | "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> |
LPS1 - LPS2 - LPS3
all available from Spencer Aircraft in Washington State
spenceraircraft.com
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there someday
Q/B Kit - FWF end game
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=250911#250911
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Wing Bolt Installation made easy or at least precise |
| From: | ricksked(at)embarqmail.com |
Use caution using LPS or any silicone based spray lube around the airframe if you
plan to paint anytime soon The residue/overspray from spraying can settle
into the dimples and is a bi$h to properly prep for paint...trust me These products
are taboo in all paint shops. That's why I used a coat of light oil...no
spray silicones
Rick Sked
N246RS
------Original Message------
From: AirMike
Sender: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
ReplyTo: Rv
Sent: Jun 30, 2009 11:17 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Wing Bolt Installation made easy or at least precise
LPS1 - LPS2 - LPS3
all available from Spencer Aircraft in Washington State
spenceraircraft.com
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there someday
Q/B Kit - FWF end game
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=250911#250911
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> |
OK, I'm attaching photos, but there is not much to see installed. I didn't include
any photos of me with the can, because you probably know how to use Great
Stuff, and it's the same process - The foam (pink) comes out through the wand
and you back the wand out as it fills. I did it with the floors completely riveted
on. For the front floors, just use the many lightening holes under the seat
area and the corner inspection plates. For the rear floors I drilled holes
between each rivet line in the area that is covered by the flap tube cover.
The foam only expands about 1/3rd of G-Stuff and dried pieces of it are slightly
firmer. I tried to use a piece of flexible poly tubing as a wand extension and
it came apart and made a mess (see photo). It cleaned up a little with acetone
but if you just let it dry, you can just snap it off and a light sanding gets
the rest. I had the second wand standing by so it wasn't a problem, but I
would recommend you come up with a longer one piece wand. Another incorrect assumption
I made was that I needed to use the whole can at once. As long as you
clean the wand/trigger (just like on G-stuff) it should still be usable.
They recommend you mist the area with a little water first to get the humidity
up - it helps it expand. I wore a respirator and goggles with gloves for the first
can, but found the respirator in an open garage was unnecessary.
The photos show how it expands out the holes (not as much as I expected). After
it dried, I snapped it off flush with a little effort. The smear in the last
photo simply disappeared with a light sanding.
John
--------
#40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished. Finish Kit started.
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=250923#250923
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc06476_407.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc06473_156.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc06478_895.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Wing Bolt Installation made easy or at least precise |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
Ah, so that is what Bob's Aircraft evolved into.
On Tue, Jun 30, 2009 at 11:17 PM, AirMike wrote:
>
> LPS1 - LPS2 - LPS3
>
> all available from Spencer Aircraft in Washington State
>
> spenceraircraft.com
>
> --------
> OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there someday
> Q/B Kit - FWF end game
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=250911#250911
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | NACA vent location(s) in rear |
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
I have 2 NACA vents located in what looks to be the same place as
Robin's - that is, just aft of the baggage bulkhead and the top is just
below the level of the static ports. These provide more than enough
air. I've thought in retrospect about whether 1 would work but since
the ducts are on the sides of the planes you might be getting uneven
feed. I've never felt any moisture from the OH vents but only have
about 3-4 hours of rain flying time so far.
Bob
N442PM (off to the paint shop next week)
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Patrick Pulis
Sent: Tuesday, June 30, 2009 8:23 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: NACA vent location(s) in rear
Deems, could you (or anyone else with the overhead fitted) please
indicate if only one vent would be sufficient to provide enough ram air
to the overhead console?
Has anyone considered the need to install mesh over the NACA vent holes
to keep out the 'critters' or would foam inserts be sufficient when
parked, especially when travelling away.
We have plenty of little flying 'critters' her 'down under' and no doubt
you have similar problems with 'critters' up over?
Regards
Patrick Pulis
Adelaide, South Australia
_____
From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net>
Sent: Wednesday, 1 July, 2009 2:55:37 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: NACA vent location(s) in rear
Start here:
http://deemsrv10.com/album/Sec%2043%20Cabin%20Cover/slides/DSC04399.html
and click forward (Next image)
Deems
N519PJ
www.deemsrv10.com
Bob and Karen Brown wrote:
>
> Can anyone post a pic of where you located the NACA vents to run air
to overhead console vents? Are you happy with the location and do you
have any problem with moisture?
>
>
> Thanks!
>
> Bob Brown
>
> Independence, OR
>
>
>
> *
>0-List" target=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
===
_____
Access Yahoo!7 Mail on your mobile. Anytime. Anywhere. Show me how
<http://au.rd.yahoo.com/mail/mobile/tagline/*http:/au.mobile.yahoo.com/m
ail> .
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 2009 OSH RV-10 HQ Camping Info |
| From: | "bcondrey" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
Quick update for everybody. Looks like we're up to about 20 sites so far this
year but there's also usually a last minute rush so my guess is that we'll end
up around 30 again.
I've been sending Tim updates almost daily so his web page at www.myrv10.com/osh/2009_Campsites.html has the most recent information. If your name is shown with colored (non-white) background that means I've received payment. If your name isn't shown please contact me with the requested info.
I've also had a couple of requests for splitting a site (people leaving or arriving
mid-week) and while we can post info to show that, you need to contact others
directly to work something out.
Time is getting short - only 20 days until the sites are staked out!
Bob
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=250954#250954
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cumins" <jcumins(at)jcis.net> |
I would be concerned that it could trapoisture from rain over the years ect.
Then you would have a major corrosion problem.
John G. Cumins
President
JC'S Interactive Systems
2499 B1 Martin Rd
Fairfield Ca 94533
707-425-7100
707-425-7576 Fax
Your Total Technology Solution Provider
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of johngoodman
Sent: Wednesday, July 01, 2009 5:26 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: insulation
OK, I'm attaching photos, but there is not much to see installed. I didn't
include any photos of me with the can, because you probably know how to use
Great Stuff, and it's the same process - The foam (pink) comes out through
the wand and you back the wand out as it fills. I did it with the floors
completely riveted on. For the front floors, just use the many lightening
holes under the seat area and the corner inspection plates. For the rear
floors I drilled holes between each rivet line in the area that is covered
by the flap tube cover.
The foam only expands about 1/3rd of G-Stuff and dried pieces of it are
slightly firmer. I tried to use a piece of flexible poly tubing as a wand
extension and it came apart and made a mess (see photo). It cleaned up a
little with acetone but if you just let it dry, you can just snap it off and
a light sanding gets the rest. I had the second wand standing by so it
wasn't a problem, but I would recommend you come up with a longer one piece
wand. Another incorrect assumption I made was that I needed to use the whole
can at once. As long as you clean the wand/trigger (just like on G-stuff) it
should still be usable.
They recommend you mist the area with a little water first to get the
humidity up - it helps it expand. I wore a respirator and goggles with
gloves for the first can, but found the respirator in an open garage was
unnecessary.
The photos show how it expands out the holes (not as much as I expected).
After it dried, I snapped it off flush with a little effort. The smear in
the last photo simply disappeared with a light sanding.
John
--------
#40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished. Finish Kit started.
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=250923#250923
Attachments:
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> |
It's closed cell and cannot absorb moisture. Trapping moisture between insulation
and the skin would be a problem with any type of insulation. However, Corrosion
X should stop any of that
John
--------
#40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished. Finish Kit started.
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=250979#250979
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | steveg(at)redmondair.com |
| Subject: | Re: Anyone think about speed brakes? |
RDD enterprises offers the same speedbrakes for RV-10s that are on the Mooneys.
Go to rddent.com to find out more.
--
This message was sent on behalf of steveg(at)redmondair.com at openSubscriber.com
http://www.opensubscriber.com/message/rv10-list@matronics.com/1833673.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Anyone think about speed brakes? |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
Those of us that fly Mooneys learn that speed brakes are only needed for
turbocharged models that routinely fly near/in the flight levels. Otherwise
reasonable planning/staying ahead of the aircraft is sufficient to arrive in
the pattern at proper speed.
On Wed, Jul 1, 2009 at 12:58 PM, wrote:
>
> RDD enterprises offers the same speedbrakes for RV-10s that are on the
> Mooneys. Go to rddent.com to find out more.
>
> --
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Interior thoughts - Flightline or anything else? |
| From: | Rob Kermanj <flysrv10(at)gmail.com> |
pictures, pictures!
On Tue, Jun 30, 2009 at 6:20 PM,
aerosport1 wrote:
>
> New RV-10 interior panels coming soon
>
> I am in final development of a complete interior set for the RV-10. It will look
more like the Cirrus and will cover all rivets, nuts and bolts. It will
> be able to be left as is in a ABS textured as the airline plastic parts or can
be painted with texture left as is or covered with your favorite material. All
parts are designed in Cad and fit the RV-10 very good. Side panels will be
available from the front all the way to the back baggage compartment bulkhead.
Even a cover for right over the baggage door rivet line.
> Also the rear passenger vents will have Automotive type air vents that can be
fit into the side panels and will have a slider knob directly in the center so
you can open and close the vents easily. The tools are complete from for the
rear seats back. We are in the final design stages of the front panels. They
will have an area for a cup holder like the Cirrus that pops out and also a spot
for a fire extinguisher.
>
> I should have picture of the rear panels in a couple weeks.
>
> Geoff Combs
>
> --------
> Geoff Combs
> RV-10 QB N829GW
> Finishing
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=250850#250850
>
>
--
Rob Kermanj
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | HID light heads up |
| From: | Geoff Bryant <drgeoffbryant(at)gmail.com> |
HID lights are great for being seen but recently my left wing tip HID
ceramic block and filament broke away from the glass reflector and flopped
around the wing tip still live during a five hour X country scorching the
floor and through adjacent strobe wire rendering strobe power supply US.
Steve of PlaneLights/Rigidindustries has replaced bulbs and not aware of any
other instance. Possibly a one off manufacture fault or differential
expansion. They sure get hot. Intend fashioning a restraining system in case
of recurrence.and otherwise very happy with the plane. 125 hours operating
out of short country strip in last 8 months and grateful for all the Lists
knowledge.
Geoff Bryant VH XVR 40572 Adelaide South Australia
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | -3 degrees flaps |
| From: | "Strasnuts" <sean(at)braunandco.com> |
I have read countless archives on the flap "up" position. I am still trying to
get the wingtips flush with the aileron and flap in the "up" position. My question
is: What is the -3 degree from? The top skin? Right now when my flaps
hit the stops (rear spar contact) the flaps are symmetrical but greater than
-3 degrees, more like -4. For the ones flying, what stops the flaps in the up
position? The spar or the flap motor?
Thanks
--------
Cust. #40936
A&P, ATP
typed CE-525(s), CE-500
RV-10 FUEL TANKS
N801VR reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=251125#251125
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com> |
| Subject: | -3 degrees flaps |
Mine were over 3 degrees. I did not measure them when I built the wings.
Just put them up to the stop and lined up the aileron and wingtip. I had a
heavy left wing during my phase one, that is when I checked. Left and right
wing were a little different. So I fixed that, and it helped resolve my
heavy wing. But, in the end the heavy wing is more of a factor of fuel load
and single fat pilot...........as long as I use the left tank first when I
am solo.....no problem. I went out the other day with 24 in the right tank
and 30 in the left...solo and guess what....heavy left wing.......
Rene' Felker
RV-10 N423CF Flying
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Strasnuts
Sent: Thursday, July 02, 2009 8:29 AM
Subject: RV10-List: -3 degrees flaps
I have read countless archives on the flap "up" position. I am still trying
to get the wingtips flush with the aileron and flap in the "up" position.
My question is: What is the -3 degree from? The top skin? Right now when
my flaps hit the stops (rear spar contact) the flaps are symmetrical but
greater than -3 degrees, more like -4. For the ones flying, what stops the
flaps in the up position? The spar or the flap motor?
Thanks
--------
Cust. #40936
A&P, ATP
typed CE-525(s), CE-500
RV-10 FUEL TANKS
N801VR reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=251125#251125
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | -3 degrees flaps |
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
Alignment instructions are in section 44 of the plans (page 44-5).
Without the flaps attached you position the flap motor to the fully up
(reflex) position. Then you position the flaps in the fully up position
defined as when they stop against the rear wing spar doubler. You then
attach the pushrods connecting the flaps.
So, real answer is that the flap motor limit is aligned to match up with
the flap hitting the rear wing spar doubler. Wingtips can be a
challenge - it's actually easier to wait until the wings are attached to
the plane, flaps are attached and aligned. Then align the ailerons to
flaps and clamp in place - at this point and finally make any
adjustments to the wingtips. Make sure when you do this that you have
the elevators in neutral alignment. There's a slight (1/4" or so)
movement of the ailerons as you move the elevators from full up through
full down due to the geometry of the aileron to stick attach linkage.
Bob
N442PM (flying)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Strasnuts
Sent: Thursday, July 02, 2009 9:29 AM
Subject: RV10-List: -3 degrees flaps
I have read countless archives on the flap "up" position. I am still
trying to get the wingtips flush with the aileron and flap in the "up"
position. My question is: What is the -3 degree from? The top skin?
Right now when my flaps hit the stops (rear spar contact) the flaps are
symmetrical but greater than -3 degrees, more like -4. For the ones
flying, what stops the flaps in the up position? The spar or the flap
motor?
Thanks
--------
Cust. #40936
A&P, ATP
typed CE-525(s), CE-500
RV-10 FUEL TANKS
N801VR reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=251125#251125
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Seano" <sean(at)braunandco.com> |
| Subject: | Re: -3 degrees flaps |
Thanks, I will leave the flaps at the stops and center the ailerons and
wingtips to that position.
Rene, I would still like to see your RV. I am out of OGD a lot in the
citation. My tail number is N458MT.
If you see me out there stop by. I always use Kemp Jet on the south side.
Sean
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com>
Sent: Thursday, July 02, 2009 9:13 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: -3 degrees flaps
>
> Mine were over 3 degrees. I did not measure them when I built the wings.
> Just put them up to the stop and lined up the aileron and wingtip. I had
> a
> heavy left wing during my phase one, that is when I checked. Left and
> right
> wing were a little different. So I fixed that, and it helped resolve my
> heavy wing. But, in the end the heavy wing is more of a factor of fuel
> load
> and single fat pilot...........as long as I use the left tank first when I
> am solo.....no problem. I went out the other day with 24 in the right
> tank
> and 30 in the left...solo and guess what....heavy left wing.......
>
> Rene' Felker
> RV-10 N423CF Flying
> 801-721-6080
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Strasnuts
> Sent: Thursday, July 02, 2009 8:29 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: -3 degrees flaps
>
>
> I have read countless archives on the flap "up" position. I am still
> trying
> to get the wingtips flush with the aileron and flap in the "up" position.
> My question is: What is the -3 degree from? The top skin? Right now when
> my flaps hit the stops (rear spar contact) the flaps are symmetrical but
> greater than -3 degrees, more like -4. For the ones flying, what stops
> the
> flaps in the up position? The spar or the flap motor?
>
> Thanks
>
> --------
> Cust. #40936
> A&P, ATP
> typed CE-525(s), CE-500
> RV-10 FUEL TANKS
> N801VR reserved
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=251125#251125
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Maib <dmaib(at)mac.com> |
| Subject: | Re: -3 degrees flaps |
The -3 degrees is relative to the chord of the wing and is nothing
you can adjust. Follow the instructions and do what you are doing.
Align the ailerons with the flaps, with the flaps up to the stops,
and then align the wingtips with the ailerons. As I recall, the
important part was getting someone to help push the wingtip securely
into position and hold it while drilling.
exactly $.02 worth.
David Maib
40559
On Jul 2, 2009, at 10:28 AM, Strasnuts wrote:
I have read countless archives on the flap "up" position. I am still
trying to get the wingtips flush with the aileron and flap in the
"up" position. My question is: What is the -3 degree from? The top
skin? Right now when my flaps hit the stops (rear spar contact) the
flaps are symmetrical but greater than -3 degrees, more like -4. For
the ones flying, what stops the flaps in the up position? The spar or
the flap motor?
Thanks
--------
Cust. #40936
A&P, ATP
typed CE-525(s), CE-500
RV-10 FUEL TANKS
N801VR reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=251125#251125
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com> |
| Subject: | Re: -3 degrees flaps |
I second the recommendation to fit the wingtips when the wings are on
the plane. This way full up on the flaps will be against the rear
spar doubler and the bottom skin on the flap should be flush with the
bottom skin on the fuselage. Then you can "clamp" the aileron flush
with the flap and fit the wingtip to the aileron. It is also very
important, as Bob mentioned, to have the elevator installed and in
neutral.
This brings up another question. Has anybody else been installing
their wingtips with hinges instead of the screws? I remember it was
in an RVAtor a couple of years ago. It really works well and makes
the wingtip a TON easier to take off and put back on.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
On Jul 2, 2009, at 10:29 AM, Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrote:
> >
>
> Alignment instructions are in section 44 of the plans (page 44-5).
> Without the flaps attached you position the flap motor to the fully up
> (reflex) position. Then you position the flaps in the fully up
> position
> defined as when they stop against the rear wing spar doubler. You
> then
> attach the pushrods connecting the flaps.
>
> So, real answer is that the flap motor limit is aligned to match up
> with
> the flap hitting the rear wing spar doubler. Wingtips can be a
> challenge - it's actually easier to wait until the wings are
> attached to
> the plane, flaps are attached and aligned. Then align the ailerons to
> flaps and clamp in place - at this point and finally make any
> adjustments to the wingtips. Make sure when you do this that you have
> the elevators in neutral alignment. There's a slight (1/4" or so)
> movement of the ailerons as you move the elevators from full up
> through
> full down due to the geometry of the aileron to stick attach linkage.
>
> Bob
> N442PM (flying)
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Strasnuts
> Sent: Thursday, July 02, 2009 9:29 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: -3 degrees flaps
>
>
> I have read countless archives on the flap "up" position. I am still
> trying to get the wingtips flush with the aileron and flap in the "up"
> position. My question is: What is the -3 degree from? The top skin?
> Right now when my flaps hit the stops (rear spar contact) the flaps
> are
> symmetrical but greater than -3 degrees, more like -4. For the ones
> flying, what stops the flaps in the up position? The spar or the flap
> motor?
>
> Thanks
>
> --------
> Cust. #40936
> A&P, ATP
> typed CE-525(s), CE-500
> RV-10 FUEL TANKS
> N801VR reserved
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=251125#251125
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com> |
| Subject: | -3 degrees flaps |
I am not out there much these days, but.......Friday and Saturday morning I
will be out there giving flights to people I have promised.....any chance
you will be around then?
I am in hanger S-525, a couple of rows south of the tower...
Rene' Felker
RV-10 N423CF Flying
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Seano
Sent: Thursday, July 02, 2009 9:37 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: -3 degrees flaps
Thanks, I will leave the flaps at the stops and center the ailerons and
wingtips to that position.
Rene, I would still like to see your RV. I am out of OGD a lot in the
citation. My tail number is N458MT.
If you see me out there stop by. I always use Kemp Jet on the south side.
Sean
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com>
Sent: Thursday, July 02, 2009 9:13 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: -3 degrees flaps
>
> Mine were over 3 degrees. I did not measure them when I built the wings.
> Just put them up to the stop and lined up the aileron and wingtip. I had
> a
> heavy left wing during my phase one, that is when I checked. Left and
> right
> wing were a little different. So I fixed that, and it helped resolve my
> heavy wing. But, in the end the heavy wing is more of a factor of fuel
> load
> and single fat pilot...........as long as I use the left tank first when I
> am solo.....no problem. I went out the other day with 24 in the right
> tank
> and 30 in the left...solo and guess what....heavy left wing.......
>
> Rene' Felker
> RV-10 N423CF Flying
> 801-721-6080
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Strasnuts
> Sent: Thursday, July 02, 2009 8:29 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: -3 degrees flaps
>
>
> I have read countless archives on the flap "up" position. I am still
> trying
> to get the wingtips flush with the aileron and flap in the "up" position.
> My question is: What is the -3 degree from? The top skin? Right now when
> my flaps hit the stops (rear spar contact) the flaps are symmetrical but
> greater than -3 degrees, more like -4. For the ones flying, what stops
> the
> flaps in the up position? The spar or the flap motor?
>
> Thanks
>
> --------
> Cust. #40936
> A&P, ATP
> typed CE-525(s), CE-500
> RV-10 FUEL TANKS
> N801VR reserved
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=251125#251125
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: -3 degrees flaps |
| From: | Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com> |
You shouldn't stall the flap motor. It should get to the end of its travel
and keep running (some shut off with a position switch, but the concept is
the same). The bottom of the flaps should be even with the belly when they
are all the way up.
On Thu, Jul 2, 2009 at 7:28 AM, Strasnuts wrote:
>
> I have read countless archives on the flap "up" position. I am still
> trying to get the wingtips flush with the aileron and flap in the "up"
> position. My question is: What is the -3 degree from? The top skin? Right
> now when my flaps hit the stops (rear spar contact) the flaps are
> symmetrical but greater than -3 degrees, more like -4. For the ones flying,
> what stops the flaps in the up position? The spar or the flap motor?
>
--
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA 95076
831-722-9141 Shop
831-750-0284 Cell
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: -3 degrees flaps |
Why not keep it on the list so the casual reader might learn something
too??? If not, add me to your 'flap' list!!
Linn
John Cumins wrote:
SNIP
>
> I will be glad to chat with any one off line and help educate any one if
> they want a more in detail lesson on this matter.
>
> Have a great and safe flying weekend and 4th of July,
>
> And GOD bless each and every one of you and this great country.
>
>
> John Cumins
> 40864 Priming elevators waiting for it to cool off.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Maib <dmaib(at)mac.com> |
| Subject: | Re: -3 degrees flaps |
I installed my flaps, ailerons, and wingtips with the wings in the
cradle, versus mounted on the airplane. It was pretty simple and my
wife and I did it without any problems. Everything came out lined up
nicely on our airplane. We put the flaps all the way up, clamped the
ailerons to the flaps, and then carefully fit and drilled the
wingtips. I remember some threads from a couple of years ago
discussing the importance of having someone hold the wingtip in
position while carefully drilling the holes. I seem to remember that
it was pretty important to make sure the tip was pushed fully forward
into the leading edge of the wing. The caution about making sure the
elevator is neutral, if installing after the controls are hooked up,
is an important one. While putting the flight controls back on after
paint, we did some real head scratching trying to figure out why the
flap/aileron alignment was messed up. Turned out to be the elevator
in the full down position.
another $.02 worth
David Maib
40559
On Jul 2, 2009, at 11:37 AM, Seano wrote:
Thanks, I will leave the flaps at the stops and center the ailerons
and wingtips to that position.
Rene, I would still like to see your RV. I am out of OGD a lot in
the citation. My tail number is N458MT.
If you see me out there stop by. I always use Kemp Jet on the south
side.
Sean
----- Original Message ----- From: "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com>
Sent: Thursday, July 02, 2009 9:13 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: -3 degrees flaps
>
> Mine were over 3 degrees. I did not measure them when I built the
> wings.
> Just put them up to the stop and lined up the aileron and wingtip.
> I had a
> heavy left wing during my phase one, that is when I checked. Left
> and right
> wing were a little different. So I fixed that, and it helped
> resolve my
> heavy wing. But, in the end the heavy wing is more of a factor of
> fuel load
> and single fat pilot...........as long as I use the left tank first
> when I
> am solo.....no problem. I went out the other day with 24 in the
> right tank
> and 30 in the left...solo and guess what....heavy left wing.......
>
> Rene' Felker
> RV-10 N423CF Flying
> 801-721-6080
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Strasnuts
> Sent: Thursday, July 02, 2009 8:29 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: -3 degrees flaps
>
>
> I have read countless archives on the flap "up" position. I am
> still trying
> to get the wingtips flush with the aileron and flap in the "up"
> position.
> My question is: What is the -3 degree from? The top skin? Right
> now when
> my flaps hit the stops (rear spar contact) the flaps are
> symmetrical but
> greater than -3 degrees, more like -4. For the ones flying, what
> stops the
> flaps in the up position? The spar or the flap motor?
>
> Thanks
>
> --------
> Cust. #40936
> A&P, ATP
> typed CE-525(s), CE-500
> RV-10 FUEL TANKS
> N801VR reserved
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=251125#251125
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: -3 degrees flaps |
| From: | "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> |
> This brings up another question. Has anybody else been installing
> their wingtips with hinges instead of the screws? I remember it was
> in an RVAtor a couple of years ago. It really works well and makes
> the wingtip a TON easier to take off and put back on.
Jesse,
I remember seeing that. You basically use piano hinge just like most folks do on
the cowling.
John
--------
#40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished. Finish Kit started.
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=251200#251200
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com> |
| Subject: | Re: -3 degrees flaps |
That's right, although we use the 3 forward screws on top and bottom
because the hinge doesn't bend as well with the sharper curve. Then
we leave the pins long and use a bracket on the little metal rib on
the trailing edge of the wingtip to hold the pins in place. The pins
can be bent and a hinge eyelet used to hold them in place, or you can
make a little metal piece about 1/8 - 3/16 thick and drill a hole for
the hinge pin to slide in, then the bracket can be screwed onto the
rib. This way you can easily put a drill on the hinge pin to spin it
while sliding it in, which is more of a big deal initially until any
burs or sharp edges inside the hinge eyelets are removed by the pin.
A little grease doesn't hurt either. We use the wingtip itself (the
part that would receive the nutplates, which will be removed if using
the hinge method) as a shim for the inboard half of the hinge. The
trick is getting all of the rivet holed drilled in the wingtip before
cutting the "shim" off, then making the cut so the material removed
would be just inboard of the end of the wing skin, so there is no gap
left. If done carefully, it can give a very nice tight and clean fit
between the wingtip and the wing skin.
The nicest part of this method, IMHO, is the wingtips can be removed
or reinstalled in about 3 minutes, versus about 30 minutes with all of
the screws. Taking it off the normal way is not that bad if using a
drill, but putting it on is a pain because the wingtip is flexible
enough that it can be hard to get it close enough to the skin to get
the screws to grab all the way around.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
On Jul 2, 2009, at 3:21 PM, johngoodman wrote:
> >
>
>
>> This brings up another question. Has anybody else been installing
>> their wingtips with hinges instead of the screws? I remember it was
>> in an RVAtor a couple of years ago. It really works well and makes
>> the wingtip a TON easier to take off and put back on.
>
>
> Jesse,
> I remember seeing that. You basically use piano hinge just like most
> folks do on the cowling.
> John
>
> --------
> #40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished. Finish Kit started.
> N711JG reserved
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=251200#251200
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: -3 degrees flaps |
| From: | Rob Kochman <rv10rob(at)gmail.com> |
I still don't understand how the wingtips can be "aligned." When I pushed
mine all the way forward, it wasn't possible to twist them up or down--they
fit in snugly.
-Rob
On Thu, Jul 2, 2009 at 1:16 PM, David Maib wrote:
>
> I installed my flaps, ailerons, and wingtips with the wings in the cradle,
> versus mounted on the airplane. It was pretty simple and my wife and I did
> it without any problems. Everything came out lined up nicely on our
> airplane. We put the flaps all the way up, clamped the ailerons to the
> flaps, and then carefully fit and drilled the wingtips. I remember some
> threads from a couple of years ago discussing the importance of having
> someone hold the wingtip in position while carefully drilling the holes. I
> seem to remember that it was pretty important to make sure the tip was
> pushed fully forward into the leading edge of the wing. The caution about
> making sure the elevator is neutral, if installing after the controls are
> hooked up, is an important one. While putting the flight controls back on
> after paint, we did some real head scratching trying to figure out why the
> flap/aileron alignment was messed up. Turned out to be the elevator in the
> full down position.
>
> another $.02 worth
>
> David Maib
> 40559
>
>
> On Jul 2, 2009, at 11:37 AM, Seano wrote:
>
>
> Thanks, I will leave the flaps at the stops and center the ailerons and
> wingtips to that position.
>
>
> Rene, I would still like to see your RV. I am out of OGD a lot in the
> citation. My tail number is N458MT.
> If you see me out there stop by. I always use Kemp Jet on the south side.
>
> Sean
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com>
> To:
> Sent: Thursday, July 02, 2009 9:13 AM
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: -3 degrees flaps
>
>
>>
>> Mine were over 3 degrees. I did not measure them when I built the wings.
>> Just put them up to the stop and lined up the aileron and wingtip. I had
>> a
>> heavy left wing during my phase one, that is when I checked. Left and
>> right
>> wing were a little different. So I fixed that, and it helped resolve my
>> heavy wing. But, in the end the heavy wing is more of a factor of fuel
>> load
>> and single fat pilot...........as long as I use the left tank first when I
>> am solo.....no problem. I went out the other day with 24 in the right
>> tank
>> and 30 in the left...solo and guess what....heavy left wing.......
>>
>> Rene' Felker
>> RV-10 N423CF Flying
>> 801-721-6080
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Strasnuts
>> Sent: Thursday, July 02, 2009 8:29 AM
>> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>> Subject: RV10-List: -3 degrees flaps
>>
>>
>> I have read countless archives on the flap "up" position. I am still
>> trying
>> to get the wingtips flush with the aileron and flap in the "up" position.
>> My question is: What is the -3 degree from? The top skin? Right now when
>> my flaps hit the stops (rear spar contact) the flaps are symmetrical but
>> greater than -3 degrees, more like -4. For the ones flying, what stops
>> the
>> flaps in the up position? The spar or the flap motor?
>>
>> Thanks
>>
>> --------
>> Cust. #40936
>> A&P, ATP
>> typed CE-525(s), CE-500
>> RV-10 FUEL TANKS
>> N801VR reserved
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=251125#251125
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
--
Rob Kochman
RV-10 Wings
Woodinville, WA (near Seattle)
http://kochman.net/N819K
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cumins" <jcumins(at)jcis.net> |
| Subject: | -3 degrees flaps |
I will be glad to keep them on the list.
John Cumins
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Linn Walters
Sent: Thursday, July 02, 2009 12:53 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: -3 degrees flaps
Why not keep it on the list so the casual reader might learn something
too??? If not, add me to your 'flap' list!!
Linn
John Cumins wrote:
SNIP
>
> I will be glad to chat with any one off line and help educate any one if
> they want a more in detail lesson on this matter.
>
> Have a great and safe flying weekend and 4th of July,
>
> And GOD bless each and every one of you and this great country.
>
>
> John Cumins
> 40864 Priming elevators waiting for it to cool off.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Maib <dmaib(at)mac.com> |
| Subject: | Re: -3 degrees flaps |
I think maybe some people, early on, match drilled the holes in the
wingtip without insuring that the wingtip was solidly in position, as
you describe. It would be a bit difficult to hold the wingtip
perfectly in position to drill without an extra set of hands. I
looked back at some construction photo's and realized that we drilled
the wingtips on a table instead of in the cradle. We used a piece of
3/4 aluminum angle to clamp the aileron to the flap. Here are a
couple of photo's.
=EF=BC=EF=BC
David Maib
40559
On Jul 2, 2009, at 5:39 PM, Rob Kochman wrote:
I still don't understand how the wingtips can be "aligned." When I
pushed mine all the way forward, it wasn't possible to twist them up
or down--they fit in snugly.
-Rob
On Thu, Jul 2, 2009 at 1:16 PM, David Maib wrote:
I installed my flaps, ailerons, and wingtips with the wings in the
cradle, versus mounted on the airplane. It was pretty simple and my
wife and I did it without any problems. Everything came out lined up
nicely on our airplane. We put the flaps all the way up, clamped the
ailerons to the flaps, and then carefully fit and drilled the
wingtips. I remember some threads from a couple of years ago
discussing the importance of having someone hold the wingtip in
position while carefully drilling the holes. I seem to remember that
it was pretty important to make sure the tip was pushed fully forward
into the leading edge of the wing. The caution about making sure the
elevator is neutral, if installing after the controls are hooked up,
is an important one. While putting the flight controls back on after
paint, we did some real head scratching trying to figure out why the
flap/aileron alignment was messed up. Turned out to be the elevator
in the full down position.
another $.02 worth
David Maib
40559
On Jul 2, 2009, at 11:37 AM, Seano wrote:
Thanks, I will leave the flaps at the stops and center the ailerons
and wingtips to that position.
Rene, I would still like to see your RV. I am out of OGD a lot in
the citation. My tail number is N458MT.
If you see me out there stop by. I always use Kemp Jet on the south
side.
Sean
----- Original Message ----- From: "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com>
Sent: Thursday, July 02, 2009 9:13 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: -3 degrees flaps
Mine were over 3 degrees. I did not measure them when I built the
wings.
Just put them up to the stop and lined up the aileron and wingtip. I
had a
heavy left wing during my phase one, that is when I checked. Left
and right
wing were a little different. So I fixed that, and it helped resolve my
heavy wing. But, in the end the heavy wing is more of a factor of
fuel load
and single fat pilot...........as long as I use the left tank first
when I
am solo.....no problem. I went out the other day with 24 in the
right tank
and 30 in the left...solo and guess what....heavy left wing.......
Rene' Felker
RV-10 N423CF Flying
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Strasnuts
Sent: Thursday, July 02, 2009 8:29 AM
Subject: RV10-List: -3 degrees flaps
I have read countless archives on the flap "up" position. I am still
trying
to get the wingtips flush with the aileron and flap in the "up"
position.
My question is: What is the -3 degree from? The top skin? Right now
when
my flaps hit the stops (rear spar contact) the flaps are symmetrical but
greater than -3 degrees, more like -4. For the ones flying, what
stops the
flaps in the up position? The spar or the flap motor?
Thanks
--------
Cust. #40936
A&P, ATP
typed CE-525(s), CE-500
RV-10 FUEL TANKS
N801VR reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=251125#251125
==================
& Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ,
="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List"
target="_blank">http://===
http://forums.mle, List Admin.
====
--
Rob Kochman
RV-10 Wings
Woodinville, WA (near Seattle)
http://kochman.net/N819K
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: -3 degrees flaps |
| From: | ricksked(at)embarqmail.com |
Don't mount the tips till the flap and ailerons are installed.....what's the best
flap position to keep the airplane from floating 1000 foot past the numbers??
Rick Sked
N246RS
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
-----Original Message-----
From: David Maib <dmaib(at)mac.com>
Date: Thu, 02 Jul 2009 20:17:48
Subject: Re: RV10-List: -3 degrees flaps
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | -3 degrees flaps |
Speed control.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
ricksked(at)embarqmail.com
Sent: Thursday, July 02, 2009 6:41 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: -3 degrees flaps
Don't mount the tips till the flap and ailerons are installed.....what's the
best flap position to keep the airplane from floating 1000 foot past the
numbers??
Rick Sked
N246RS
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
-----Original Message-----
From: David Maib <dmaib(at)mac.com>
Date: Thu, 02 Jul 2009 20:17:48
Subject: Re: RV10-List: -3 degrees flaps
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: -3 degrees flaps |
| From: | "Jim" <jim(at)CombsFive.Com> |
We had a Navy pilot provide CAP folk with a method for landing on short
runways.
during cruise flight, slow down, lower the flaps and
June 16, 2009 - July 03, 2009
RV10-Archive.digest.vol-es