RV10-Archive.digest.vol-hi
November 24, 2010 - December 06, 2010
>
> I was curious how much I should plan for paint costs. My plan would be f
or me to do most the glass work=2C but to hire out the prime/painting. I'm
planning a 3 color scheme - white/blue/silver. Thanks
> -Mike
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-10 Paint Costs |
| From: | "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> |
My paint cost over $4000, but I had lots of colors. I don't see how you could do
it for less than $1500...
Or are you talking about the painter?
John
--------
#40572 Painted and the wings are on.
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=320799#320799
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | VOR/GS/LOC antenna mount |
| From: | "Eric_Kallio" <scout019(at)msn.com> |
Getting ready to mount the cat whisker type LOC antenna as one of the ever shrinking
list of things to finish before inspection. Because I didn't plan ahead
when building the VS I am going to mount the antenna under the tail. Anyone have
pics of how they did their mount. particularly what you did for a doubler and
nutplates. No need to reinvent the wheel if there is already a good solution
out there.
Eric Kallio
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=320801#320801
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-10 Paint Costs |
Mike, you probably would get better info if you provide your location.- K
racon, in Lincoln Calif, is one of the best deals out there.- I had my 10
painted there for under 8k with some fiberglass work.- Since then (8-200
9) there has been at least 4 other RV's done there.- Glo Custom, in the F
t. Worth area, is really busy, and a 10 will cost between 10k and12k.
Don McDonald
--- On Wed, 11/24/10, Michael Kraus wrote:
From: Michael Kraus <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net>
Subject: RV10-List: RV-10 Paint Costs
Date: Wednesday, November 24, 2010, 4:21 AM
I was curious how much I should plan for paint costs.- My plan would be f
or me to do most the glass work, but to hire out the prime/painting.- I'm
planning a 3 color scheme - white/blue/silver.- Thanks
-Mike
Sent from my iPhone
le, List Admin.
=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Danny Riggs <jdriggs49(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-10 Paint Costs |
I was referring to commercial paint jobs. paint only is gonna cost about $
2000 to $5000. This depends heavily on the type of paint.
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: RV-10 Paint Costs
> From: johngoodman(at)earthlink.net
> Date: Wed=2C 24 Nov 2010 06:41:58 -0800
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>
>
>
> My paint cost over $4000=2C but I had lots of colors. I don't see how you
could do it for less than $1500...
> Or are you talking about the painter?
>
> John
>
> --------
> #40572 Painted and the wings are on.
> N711JG reserved
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=320799#320799
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | GPS antenna location |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
Has anyone mounted their GPS antenna(s) underneath the cabin cover,
say inside an overhead console? Is there any reason the cabin cover
fiberglass would not be transparent to GPS signals? Given that Vans
mostly implies the cover is structural and discourages drilling beyond
what the plans call for, I'd rather put antenna on underside than
drill holes for coax and mounting. Not to mention avoiding the drag
and appearance of extra protrusions. Figuring will have minimum of
430W, EFIS independent GPS, and possibly ADS-B GPS antennas.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: GPS antenna location |
Not underneath a cabin cover - but inside the engine cowl...with fresh (non-metallic)
paint on it. Still works fine.
Mine's a Garmin 420W...
-----Original Message-----
>From: Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
>Sent: Nov 24, 2010 10:32 AM
>To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV10-List: GPS antenna location
>
>
>Has anyone mounted their GPS antenna(s) underneath the cabin cover,
>say inside an overhead console? Is there any reason the cabin cover
>fiberglass would not be transparent to GPS signals? Given that Vans
>mostly implies the cover is structural and discourages drilling beyond
>what the plans call for, I'd rather put antenna on underside than
>drill holes for coax and mounting. Not to mention avoiding the drag
>and appearance of extra protrusions. Figuring will have minimum of
>430W, EFIS independent GPS, and possibly ADS-B GPS antennas.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Wing Skins Seam |
| From: | "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie(at)yahoo.com> |
Followed the plans and it turned out ok.
--------
Wayne Gillispie, A&P 5/93, PPC 10/08
Grayson, KY Bldr# 40983
Ord complete kit 8/24/09; DB Sch del 11/20/09
Emp 12/01/09-3/14/10 332 hrs
Wings 3/14/10-9/18/10 360 hrs
Fuselage 9/21/10-
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=320814#320814
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: GPS antenna location |
I agree that under the cowl is better than under the cabin top only
because of the thickness of the cabin top. FG isn't really transparent
to the GPS signal, and the thicker the FG, the more degradation of the
GPS signal. The heat under the cowl is also a consideration, but the
heat under the cabin top will probably get as high in direct sunlight,
depending on the color paint used. So far I'm planning on putting my
GPS antenna under the cabin top too, inside my fresh air plenum. That
is until I get feedback from those that had problems with it there.
Linn
Y'all have a great Thanksgiving tomorrow!!!!
On 11/24/2010 10:48 AM, Ralph E. Capen wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Ralph E. Capen"
>
> Not underneath a cabin cover - but inside the engine cowl...with fresh (non-metallic)
paint on it. Still works fine.
>
> Mine's a Garmin 420W...
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Kelly McMullen<apilot2(at)gmail.com>
>> Sent: Nov 24, 2010 10:32 AM
>> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>> Subject: RV10-List: GPS antenna location
>>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Kelly McMullen
>>
>> Has anyone mounted their GPS antenna(s) underneath the cabin cover,
>> say inside an overhead console? Is there any reason the cabin cover
>> fiberglass would not be transparent to GPS signals? Given that Vans
>> mostly implies the cover is structural and discourages drilling beyond
>> what the plans call for, I'd rather put antenna on underside than
>> drill holes for coax and mounting. Not to mention avoiding the drag
>> and appearance of extra protrusions. Figuring will have minimum of
>> 430W, EFIS independent GPS, and possibly ADS-B GPS antennas.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: GPS antenna location |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
Yes, that is exactly what I have in mind. Just trying to get all the
planning for what will/won't go inside the lovely carbon fiber
overhead console before permanently glassing the console in place.
Really want to minimize external antennas. Current plane looks like
porcupine with 2 comms, loran Elt,VOR, stormscope, Adf and transp ants
sticking out everywhere.,
Remember, keep your base empty wt under control on T-day. Allegedly
easier than controlling wt of what is attached to plane.
On Wed, Nov 24, 2010 at 9:04 AM, Linn Walters wrote:
>
So far I'm planning on putting my GPS antenna under the cabin
> top too, inside my fresh air plenum. That is until I get feedback from
> those that had problems with it there.
> Linn
> Y'all have a great Thanksgiving tomorrow!!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pascal" <rv10builder(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: GPS antenna location |
I grabbed a GPS and put it under the cabin cover, received a reception just
fine, so I put my antenna inside/above a self made overhead console that
will sit right over the area where the front seats are.
The antenna is easy enough to move if it does not work. I don't like the
idea of the excessive heat from the engine area, may not be an issue for the
antenna but I know of a couple of times my (car) gps did not work due to
being overheated sitting in the trunk one summer, so that tells me it cant
be a good thing having all the heat over any items that don't need to be in
the engine area(aka designed for that location)
Pascal
--------------------------------------------------
From: "Kelly McMullen" <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
Sent: Wednesday, November 24, 2010 7:32 AM
Subject: RV10-List: GPS antenna location
>
> Has anyone mounted their GPS antenna(s) underneath the cabin cover,
> say inside an overhead console? Is there any reason the cabin cover
> fiberglass would not be transparent to GPS signals? Given that Vans
> mostly implies the cover is structural and discourages drilling beyond
> what the plans call for, I'd rather put antenna on underside than
> drill holes for coax and mounting. Not to mention avoiding the drag
> and appearance of extra protrusions. Figuring will have minimum of
> 430W, EFIS independent GPS, and possibly ADS-B GPS antennas.
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: GPS antenna location |
On 11/24/2010 11:22 AM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Kelly McMullen
>
> Yes, that is exactly what I have in mind. Just trying to get all the
> planning for what will/won't go inside the lovely carbon fiber
> overhead console before permanently glassing the console in place.
I'm not convinced that glassing the overhead console in place is a good
idea. I realize that you have access panels in the CF OH consoles, but
you never know what's going to occur down the road (airway??? ;-) ). My
OH console will not have an access cover so I plan on embedding nuts in
the cabin top so I can put screws in to hold the OH console up. I had
also thought of using silicone to mount the OH console .... and haven't
tossed the idea out just yet. Anyone have comments????
Linn
> Really want to minimize external antennas. Current plane looks like
> porcupine with 2 comms, loran Elt,VOR, stormscope, Adf and transp ants
> sticking out everywhere.,
> Remember, keep your base empty wt under control on T-day. Allegedly
> easier than controlling wt of what is attached to plane.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: GPS antenna location |
I decided to optimize the mounting of the 430W antenna according to the
best avionics advice I could find. The installation manual being first
and and avionics shop owner second (Bill Betts, SparkChasers, KJNX). My
thinking was 1) every source of advice has a bias 2) the performance of
the 430W WAAS GPS being most important to me, 3) follow the avionics
invested parties advice. So it's mounted on top of the cabin, right in
the middle, far away from any possible interference, holes thru the
cabin top, stuck out in the airstream.
The are 3 or 4 other GPS antenna involved. Here I just tried to find
good locations that should perform satisfactorily, provide easy
installation/maintenance and be aesthetically pleasing. So 2 are
mounted along upper rim of the windshield - a location that's worked
well on my Maule. 1 or 2 are going to be velcroed to the glare shield.
No holes, nothing sticking out, nothing being visually unpleasant.
Not flying so can't say how this will all work out.
Bill "applying high performance Dupont industrial coatings" Watson
On 11/24/2010 10:32 AM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Kelly McMullen
>
> Has anyone mounted their GPS antenna(s) underneath the cabin cover,
> say inside an overhead console? Is there any reason the cabin cover
> fiberglass would not be transparent to GPS signals? Given that Vans
> mostly implies the cover is structural and discourages drilling beyond
> what the plans call for, I'd rather put antenna on underside than
> drill holes for coax and mounting. Not to mention avoiding the drag
> and appearance of extra protrusions. Figuring will have minimum of
> 430W, EFIS independent GPS, and possibly ADS-B GPS antennas.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DLM" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-10 Paint Costs |
location is important. AZ paint shops wanted 9500-12000. Mine was
painted at Mena AR . Three paint shops on the field. Crider Goodner did
mine. Price for Matterhorn White with Maroon trim (forgot the paint
brand) was $4500. I spent about $1500 extra on the trip there and VFR
(visiting friends and relatives. rental car and food for kids and
grandkids for 2 weeks while it was painted. Figure about $6000.
----- Original Message -----
From: Don McDonald
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, November 24, 2010 7:47 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: RV-10 Paint Costs
Mike, you probably would get better info if you provide your
location. Kracon, in Lincoln Calif, is one of the best deals out there.
I had my 10 painted there for under 8k with some fiberglass work.
Since then (8-2009) there has been at least 4 other RV's done there.
Glo Custom, in the Ft. Worth area, is really busy, and a 10 will cost
between 10k and12k.
Don McDonald
--- On Wed, 11/24/10, Michael Kraus
wrote:
From: Michael Kraus <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net>
Subject: RV10-List: RV-10 Paint Costs
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Date: Wednesday, November 24, 2010, 4:21 AM
I was curious how much I should plan for paint costs. My plan
would be for me to do most the glass work, but to hire out the
prime/painting. I'm planning a 3 color scheme - white/blue/sil=
this year's Terrific Free Incentive Gifts nbsp; -->
http://www.m============
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DLM" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: VOR/GS/LOC antenna mount |
The main reason to not mount under the tail is the antenna in eye
problem for any little people around the aircraft.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Eric_Kallio" <scout019(at)msn.com>
Sent: Wednesday, November 24, 2010 8:00 AM
Subject: RV10-List: VOR/GS/LOC antenna mount
>
> Getting ready to mount the cat whisker type LOC antenna as one of the
ever shrinking list of things to finish before inspection. Because I
didn't plan ahead when building the VS I am going to mount the antenna
under the tail. Anyone have pics of how they did their mount.
particularly what you did for a doubler and nutplates. No need to
reinvent the wheel if there is already a good solution out there.
>
> Eric Kallio
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=320801#320801
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DLM" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-10 Paint Costs |
I checked the logbook and my paint was AXZO-Nobel Alumigrip and Sherman
Williams JET-GLO
----- Original Message -----
From: Danny Riggs
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, November 24, 2010 7:28 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: RV-10 Paint Costs
Mike,
The prices for paint really vary all over the landscape. I've seen
lows around $6500 to upwards of $15000 depending on how ready to paint
the bird is and what kind of paint you use. I chose to do it myself as
it was something I have always wanted to master. I used poly urethane
(basically Imron) and the paint costs alone have been about $5000. It's
taken six months of part time work. Using auto type paint would be
cheaper as my friend has done his -7 for about $2800 not including the
labor to shoot it. Another had his 182 repainted and they charged $6700
but it looks a bit sketchy. Dan
> Subject: RV10-List: RV-10 Paint Costs
> From: n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net
> Date: Wed, 24 Nov 2010 07:21:22 -0500
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>
>
> I was curious how much I should plan for paint costs. My plan would
be for me to do most the glass work, but to hire out the prime/painting.
I'm planning a 3 color scheme - white/blue/silver. Thanks
> -Mike
>
> Sent from my iPhone
> <
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robin Marks <Robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com> |
| Subject: | RV-10 Paint Costs |
I also had mine painted in Mena AR. The end result is a very good paint job
for $8,500 BUT took about 6 months to complete. 6 months where I was paying
flight insurance, hangar etc=85 And that is only the beginning of the story
. I
will be painting my 8A a little closer to home next time where I can review
the progress and kick someone=92s empennage if need be.
Robin
*From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:
owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *DLM
*Sent:* Wednesday, November 24, 2010 2:59 PM
*To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
*Subject:* Re: RV10-List: RV-10 Paint Costs
location is important. AZ paint shops wanted 9500-12000. Mine was painted a
t
Mena AR . Three paint shops on the field. Crider Goodner did mine. Price fo
r
Matterhorn White with Maroon trim (forgot the paint brand) was $4500. I
spent about $1500 extra on the trip there and VFR (visiting friends and
relatives. rental car and food for kids and grandkids for 2 weeks while it
was painted. Figure about $6000.
----- Original Message -----
*From:* Don McDonald
*To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
*Sent:* Wednesday, November 24, 2010 7:47 AM
*Subject:* Re: RV10-List: RV-10 Paint Costs
Mike, you probably would get better info if you provide your location.
Kracon, in Lincoln Calif, is one of the best deals out there. I had my 10
painted there for under 8k with some fiberglass work. Since then (8-2009)
there has been at least 4 other RV's done there. Glo Custom, in the Ft.
Worth area, is really busy, and a 10 will cost between 10k and12k.
Don McDonald
--- On *Wed, 11/24/10, Michael Kraus * wrote:
From: Michael Kraus <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net>
Subject: RV10-List: RV-10 Paint Costs
Date: Wednesday, November 24, 2010, 4:21 AM
http://us.mc537.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=
n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net>
>
I was curious how much I should plan for paint costs. My plan would be for
me to do most the glass work, but to hire out the prime/painting. I'm
planning a 3 color scheme - white/blue/sil= this year's Terrific Free
Incentive Gifts nbsp; --> http://www.m============
<http://www.matronics.com/contribution>
* *
* *
*href="http://www.aeroelectric.com">www.aeroelectric.com*
*href="http://www.buildersbooks.com">www.buildersbooks.com*
*href="http://www.homebuilthelp.com">www.homebuilthelp.com*
*href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/ch
ref="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.c
om/Navigator?RV10-List*
*href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com*
* *
* *
===========*
===========*
===========*
===========*
------------------------------
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "n801bh(at)netzero.com" <n801bh(at)netzero.com> |
| Subject: | Re: VOR/GS/LOC antenna mount |
I have been to enought airshows/flyins etc where the general public have
access to my experimental and kids that small without supervision will
use the antenna as a chin up bar and pull it off the plane. If they are
dumb enough to happen to poke themselves in the eye then the PARENTS are
at fault. And me of course for providing a play toy for ill behaved kid
s. Keep in mind when flying ALL VOR stations are below you and so are al
l the transmitting ATC radio stations. It just makes sense to mount thos
e antennes on the bottom of the aircraft............ Just my humble opin
ion.
Ben Haas
N801BH
www.haaspowerair.com
---------- Original Message ----------
From: "DLM" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: VOR/GS/LOC antenna mount
Date: Wed, 24 Nov 2010 16:02:36 -0700
The main reason to not mount under the tail is the antenna in eye proble
m for any little people around the aircraft. ----- Original Message ----
- From: "Eric_Kallio" <scout019(at)msn.com>To: <rv10-list(at)matronics.com>Sen
t: Wednesday, November 24, 2010 8:00 AMSubject: RV10-List: VOR/GS/LOC an
tenna mount
>
> Getting ready to mount the cat whisker type LOC antenna as one of the
ever shrinking list of things to finish before inspection. Because I did
n't plan ahead when building the VS I am going to mount the antenna unde
r the tail. Anyone have pics of how they did their mount. particularly w
hat you did for a doubler and nutplates. No need to reinvent the wheel i
f there is already a good solution out there.
>
> Eric Kallio
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=320801#320801
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ==========
> Support Your Lists This Month --
> Get Some the Annual Contribution link Terrific Free href="http://www
.aeroelectric.com">www.aeroelectric.com
> href="http://www.buildersbooks.com">www.buildersbooks.com
> href="http://www.homebuilthelp.com">www.homebuilthelp.com
> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.co
m/contribution
> RV10-List Email browse
> Photoshare, and much href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-L
ist">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> bsp; via the href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matr
onics.com
>
>
========================
========================
========================
========================
========================
========================
=====================
____________________________________________________________
Mortgage Rates Hit 2.67%!
If you owe under $729k you probably qualify for Gov't Refi Programs
http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL3241/4ceda3984f77f409cc6st05vuc
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cumins" <jcumins(at)jcis.net> |
| Subject: | RV-10 Paint Costs |
I HAD MY Cardinal painted at Texas Aero Color in Brady Texas. Alan does a
lot of corporate and war birds and does beautiful work. He also did the
Saratoga I fly. He is usually dead on perfect in 4 weeks but us very good
about communicating where the project is .
So I will be taking my RV-10 to him for paint. He has painted several 10's.
John G. Cumins
President
2499 B1 Martin Rd
Fairfield Ca 94534
707-425-7100
707-425-7576 Fax
Your Total Technology Solution Provider
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robin Marks
Sent: Wednesday, November 24, 2010 3:27 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: RV-10 Paint Costs
I also had mine painted in Mena AR. The end result is a very good paint job
for $8,500 BUT took about 6 months to complete. 6 months where I was paying
flight insurance, hangar etc. And that is only the beginning of the story. I
will be painting my 8A a little closer to home next time where I can review
the progress and kick someone's empennage if need be.
Robin
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of DLM
Sent: Wednesday, November 24, 2010 2:59 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: RV-10 Paint Costs
location is important. AZ paint shops wanted 9500-12000. Mine was painted at
Mena AR . Three paint shops on the field. Crider Goodner did mine. Price for
Matterhorn White with Maroon trim (forgot the paint brand) was $4500. I
spent about $1500 extra on the trip there and VFR (visiting friends and
relatives. rental car and food for kids and grandkids for 2 weeks while it
was painted. Figure about $6000.
----- Original Message -----
From: Don McDonald <mailto:building_partner(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Wednesday, November 24, 2010 7:47 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: RV-10 Paint Costs
Mike, you probably would get better info if you provide your location.
Kracon, in Lincoln Calif, is one of the best deals out there. I had my 10
painted there for under 8k with some fiberglass work. Since then (8-2009)
there has been at least 4 other RV's done there. Glo Custom, in the Ft.
Worth area, is really busy, and a 10 will cost between 10k and12k.
Don McDonald
--- On Wed, 11/24/10, Michael Kraus wrote:
From: Michael Kraus <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net>
Subject: RV10-List: RV-10 Paint Costs
Date: Wednesday, November 24, 2010, 4:21 AM
<http://us.mc537.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=n223rv@wolflakeairport.net> >
I was curious how much I should plan for paint costs. My plan would be for
me to do most the glass work, but to hire out the prime/painting. I'm
planning a 3 color scheme - white/blue/sil= this year's Terrific Free
Incentive Gifts nbsp; --> http://www.m============
<http://www.matronics.com/contribution>
href="http://www.aeroelectric.com">www.aeroelectric.com
href="http://www.buildersbooks.com">www.buildersbooks.com
href="http://www.homebuilthelp.com">www.homebuilthelp.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/chref
"http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navi
gator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
(And Get Some AWESOME FREE Gifts!)
e Contribution link below to find out more about
ee Incentive Gifts provided
www.aeroelectric.com
ookstore www.buildersbooks.com
ef="http://www.homebuilthelp.com">www.homebuilthelp.com
ontribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
================
= the many List utilities such as List Un/Subscription,
matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-L
ist
================
http://forums.matronics.com
================
_____
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 10.0.117
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Calvert" <rv6(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | RV-10 Paint Costs |
I had my RV6 painted at Renue Aircraft in Cleveland Oklahoma
http://www.renueaircraft.com/index.html. Pics attached ( hopefully they
stay attached). You need to have the fiberglass done, but they fill the pin
holes. When I dropped it off, I took off the gear leg fairings, wheel
pants, and emp fairing, since I wanted them painted off the plane. I put
them back on when I picked it up. Mine was $5500 and took 3-weeks. They
paint a lot of production aircraft and have done several RVs.
Cleveland is located about 35 miles west of Tulsa OK.
Jerry Calvert
RV6
Edmond OK
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of DLM
Sent: Wednesday, November 24, 2010 4:59 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: RV-10 Paint Costs
location is important. AZ paint shops wanted 9500-12000. Mine was painted at
Mena AR . Three paint shops on the field. Crider Goodner did mine. Price for
Matterhorn White with Maroon trim (forgot the paint brand) was $4500. I
spent about $1500 extra on the trip there and VFR (visiting friends and
relatives. rental car and food for kids and grandkids for 2 weeks while it
was painted. Figure about $6000.
----- Original Message -----
From: Don McDonald <mailto:building_partner(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Wednesday, November 24, 2010 7:47 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: RV-10 Paint Costs
Mike, you probably would get better info if you provide your location.
Kracon, in Lincoln Calif, is one of the best deals out there. I had my 10
painted there for under 8k with some fiberglass work. Since then (8-2009)
there has been at least 4 other RV's done there. Glo Custom, in the Ft.
Worth area, is really busy, and a 10 will cost between 10k and12k.
Don McDonald
--- On Wed, 11/24/10, Michael Kraus wrote:
From: Michael Kraus <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net>
Subject: RV10-List: RV-10 Paint Costs
Date: Wednesday, November 24, 2010, 4:21 AM
<http://us.mc537.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=n223rv@wolflakeairport.net> >
I was curious how much I should plan for paint costs. My plan would be for
me to do most the glass work, but to hire out the prime/painting. I'm
planning a 3 color scheme - white/blue/sil= this year's Terrific Free
Incentive Gifts nbsp; --> http://www.m============
<http://www.matronics.com/contribution>
href="http://www.aeroelectric.com">www.aeroelectric.com
href="http://www.buildersbooks.com">www.buildersbooks.com
href="http://www.homebuilthelp.com">www.homebuilthelp.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/chref
"http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navi
gator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | davidsoutpost(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | Re: VOR/GS/LOC antenna mount |
I thought long and hard on this and made the decision to put it up on the vertical
stabilizer and modified the fiberglass tip so it fit and made it removable.
I did not want it on the bottom because of how bad it looks there and also for
accidentally running into it,,,,myself on anyone else. My thoughts on reception
are that it might work better on the bottom, however they do seem to work
just fine on the majority of certified GA planes, including my Cessna,,,,so that's
where I put it and I am happy with my decision.
David Clifford
RV-10 Builder
65% Done-95% To Go
N849RV (reserved)
----- Original Message -----
From: n801bh(at)netzero.com
Sent: Wednesday, November 24, 2010 6:44:38 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: VOR/GS/LOC antenna mount
I have been to enought airshows/flyins etc where the general public have access
to my experimental and kids that small without supervision will use the antenna
as a chin up bar and pull it off the plane. If they are dumb enough to happen
to poke themselves in the eye then the PARENTS are at fault. And me of course
for providing a play toy for ill behaved kids. Keep in mind when flying ALL
VOR stations are below you and so are all the transmitting ATC radio stations.
It just makes sense to mount those antennes on the bottom of the aircraft............
Just my humble opinion.
Ben Haas
N801BH
www.haaspowerair.com
---------- Original Message ----------
From: "DLM" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: VOR/GS/LOC antenna mount
Date: Wed, 24 Nov 2010 16:02:36 -0700
The main reason to not mount under the tail is the antenna in eye problem for any
little people around the aircraft.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Eric_Kallio" < scout019(at)msn.com >
Sent: Wednesday, November 24, 2010 8:00 AM
Subject: RV10-List: VOR/GS/LOC antenna mount
>
> Getting ready to mount the cat whisker type LOC antenna as one of the ever shrinking
list of things to finish before inspection. Because I didn't plan ahead
when building the VS I am going to mount the antenna under the tail. Anyone
have pics of how they did their mount. particularly what you did for a doubler
and nutplates. No need to reinvent the wheel if there is already a good solution
out there.
>
> Eric Kallio
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=320801#320801
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ===========
> Support Your Lists This Month --
> Get Some the Annual Contribution link Terrific Free href="http://www.aeroelectric.com"> www.aeroelectric.com
> href="http://www.buildersbooks.com"> www.buildersbooks.com
> href="http://www.homebuilthelp.com"> www.homebuilthelp.com
> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution"> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> RV10-List Email browse
> Photoshare, and much href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List"> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> bsp; via the href="http://forums.matronics.com"> http://forums.matronics.com
>
>
> ===================================
roelectric.com
com/">www.buildersbooks.com
homebuilthelp.com
www.matronics.com/contribution
===================================
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
===================================
tronics.com
====================================
____________________________________________________________
Mortgage Rates Hit 2.67%!
If you owe under $729k you probably qualify for Gov't Refi Programs
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: VOR/GS/LOC antenna mount |
| From: | "Eric_Kallio" <scout019(at)msn.com> |
I wanted it on top too, but I didn't come to that conclusion until after the VS
was built and even mounted now. A little too late to go back and make provisions
to run the coax up to an antenna. My lack of prior planning is what drove
my decision to put it on the bottom. I don't have kids, but I did recognize that
problem with the eye hazard and will be getting some brightly colored, and
very light weight foam balls to put on the ends on the ground turning the point
into a blunt end.
Eric
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=320887#320887
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Transition Training LODA |
| From: | "rvdave" <davidbf(at)centurytel.net> |
Dave,
I'd like to set something up with you for end of March when I'll be down your way
on vacation, how will you be handling scheduling, etc.?
--------
Dave Ford
RV6 flying
RV10 building
Cadillac, MI
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=320893#320893
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: VOR/GS/LOC antenna mount |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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Lark <larkrv10(at)yahoo.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: VOR/GS/LOC antenna mount |
Eric, re-read your email after I sent my first message.- I used K-1000-3
nut plates for a #10-32 screw or AN 3 bolt.
-
Rick
--- On Wed, 11/24/10, Eric_Kallio wrote:
From: Eric_Kallio <scout019(at)msn.com>
Subject: RV10-List: VOR/GS/LOC antenna mount
Received: Wednesday, November 24, 2010, 3:00 PM
Getting ready to mount the cat whisker type LOC antenna as one of the ever
shrinking list of things to finish before inspection. Because I didn't plan
ahead when building the VS I am going to mount the antenna under the tail.
Anyone have pics of how they did their mount. particularly what you did fo
r a doubler and nutplates. No need to reinvent the wheel if there is alread
y a good solution out there.
Eric Kallio
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=320801#320801
le, List Admin.
=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Lark <larkrv10(at)yahoo.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: VOR/GS/LOC antenna mount |
Eric
-
I just made a doubler for a Comant CI 157P and installed it last weekend.
- I used 2024T3 .063", and then rivetted it in the rear tail cone as othe
rs have done.--Tim Olson has a couple of pictures of the exterior-pla
cement on his web site, in misc photos, "The Colorado 10's".- I alodined
the area under the doubler as I hadn't primed that area.- Also alodined b
oth sides of the doubler and the circular area on the ouside of the tail sk
in.-
-
I'm not going to worry about kids or anyone bumping the antenna.--If an
yone hits it, it will likely be me.- I wanted the best possible reception
I can get as we have far fewer VOR's-here north of the 49th parallel.
-
Rick
#40956
Southampton, Ont
-
--- On Thu, 11/25/10, Eric_Kallio wrote:
From: Eric_Kallio <scout019(at)msn.com>
Subject: RV10-List: Re: VOR/GS/LOC antenna mount
Received: Thursday, November 25, 2010, 1:17 AM
I wanted it on top too, but I didn't come to that conclusion until after th
e VS was built and even mounted now. A little too late to go back and make
provisions to run the coax up to an antenna. My lack of prior planning is w
hat drove my decision to put it on the bottom. I don't have kids, but I did
recognize that problem with the eye hazard and will be getting some bright
ly colored, and very light weight foam balls to put on the ends on the grou
nd turning the point into a blunt end.
Eric
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=320887#320887
le, List Admin.
=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robin Marks <Robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com> |
| Subject: | Re: VOR/GS/LOC antenna mount |
Agreed. Photo attached.
Robin
*From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:
owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *
carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net
*Sent:* Wednesday, November 24, 2010 6:28 PM
*To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
*Subject:* Re: RV10-List: Re: VOR/GS/LOC antenna mount
I agree with the earlier posts - the very marginal gain of having any
external VOR/GS antenna over a wingtip one is not worth the risk of anyone
poking out an eye.
I have a homebrew wintip antenna in my 8A that receives stations quite
well. A few pieces of aluminum out of the scrap bin and you're done. I'll
make an identical one for the 10.
Carl
Sent from my mobile phone. Please read past the typos.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rene" <rene(at)felker.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Transition Training LODA |
I am late to this thread.......but better late than never. My insurance
company required 5 hours of transition training from one of two
instructors...Mike Seager and Alex DeDominicis.....you might want to check
with your insurance company before you go down. I am sure it is not a
problem, but you never know when it comes to an insurance company paying a
claim.....
Rene'
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of rvdave
Sent: Wednesday, November 24, 2010 7:31 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Transition Training LODA
Dave,
I'd like to set something up with you for end of March when I'll be down
your way on vacation, how will you be handling scheduling, etc.?
--------
Dave Ford
RV6 flying
RV10 building
Cadillac, MI
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=320893#320893
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | What Are You Thankful For...? |
Dear Listers,
Here in the United States, Thursday is our National day of Thanksgiving. Many
of us will be traveling to be with our families and friends to share in generous
feasts of plenty and giving thanks for the many blessings that have been bestowed
upon us.
Many Listers have expressed over the last couple of weeks how thankful they are
for the Email Lists and Forums here on the Matronics servers and for all of the
assistance and comradery they have experienced being a part of the Lists.
One of my favorite comments is when someone writes to me and says something like,
"Its the first thing I do in the morning while I'm having my morning coffee!".
That's a wonderful tribute to the purpose and function of these Lists.
Its always great to hear I'm not the only one that jumps out of bed each morning
to check my List email!!
Won't you take a minute today and show your appreciation for these Lists and for
their continued operation and upgrade?
The List Contribution Site is:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Or, drop a personal check in the mail to:
Matt Dralle / Matronics
581 Jeannie Way
Livermore CA 94550
USA
Thank you in advance for your kind consideration,
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Transition Training LODA |
| From: | "dmaib(at)me.com" <dmaib(at)me.com> |
Good point Rene and Tim. I will speak to my agent. When I got mine from Alex, my
insurance just required five hours with a CFI in an RV-10. When I told them
I was going to Alex, they seemed to know who he was, but no requirement to use
him or Mike.
At any rate, I will explore this.
--------
David Maib
RV-10 #40559
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=321004#321004
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Transition Training LODA |
| From: | "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> |
With 1200 hrs and no inst. rating , my insurance required 10 hrs. I flew 4 hrs.
with Dave McNeil as a passenger to get the feel of the bird, and then the 10
with Mike Seager.
--------
See you OSH '11
Q/B - flying 1 yr+
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=321022#321022
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DLM" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Transition Training LODA |
You were a passenge in the left seat until we got to Silver Springs, then
you made 5 or 6 takeoffs and landings. I don't recall whether I signed your
book.
----- Original Message -----
From: "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net>
Sent: Thursday, November 25, 2010 9:46 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Transition Training LODA
>
> With 1200 hrs and no inst. rating , my insurance required 10 hrs. I flew 4
> hrs. with Dave McNeil as a passenger to get the feel of the bird, and then
> the 10 with Mike Seager.
>
> --------
> See you OSH '11
> Q/B - flying 1 yr+
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=321022#321022
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: GPS antenna location |
| From: | "Strasnuts" <sean(at)braunandco.com> |
Kelly,
I have been going through this as well. I have an ugly double shark fin antenna
that has to go on top of the cabin cover as far forward as possible. My problem
is the ground plane. Garmin wants 18x18 ground plane and all I can do is
10x33 copper mesh that sandwiches on the inside. With Geoff's overhead console
it is really easy to reach inside through the access plates. Also, if you
want to look at a nice install that is hidden, look what Robin Marks did on his
cabin top. I would think structurally the carbon fiber console has to compensate
for the cabin top being milled out.
http://www.painttheweb.com/painttheweb/rv-10/GPSAntenn.aspx
--------
Cust. #40936
RV-10 SB Fuselage
N801VR reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=321025#321025
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: GPS antenna location |
| From: | Jim Combs <jiminlexky(at)gmail.com> |
I see you all are determined to embed / mount the GPS antenna into the
cabin.
Here is another solution.
I have mine under the cowl on a mounted plate attached to the firewall and
the top of the engine mount.
Flying now with 200 hours and no issues. I have access to them, they are
easily inspected and
serviced if ever needed, and it a ton easier to do (no fiberglass or routing
of cables up to the
cabin top).
I have the 430W GPS antenna, an XM weather antenna, and a stand-alone GPS
receiver (49$ driving co-pilot
EFIS and AP).
Food for thought.
Jim Combs
N312F - Flying (again!)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Transition Training LODA |
| From: | "zackrv8" <zackrv8(at)verizon.net> |
Guys,
Some of you may or may not know, I do Transition Training in Van's RV10 (N220RV)
that is based at St Mary's airport in Maryland (2W6).
Joe Czachorowski
Zackair.com
--------
RV8 #80125
RV10 # 40512
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=321058#321058
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> |
Thinking about buying an I-Pad. Should I get the 3G model so that I can get en-route
weather (when I can get a cel signal). Or is it a waste of money to get
the 3G model.
--------
See you OSH '11
Q/B - flying 1 yr+
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=321066#321066
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: I-Pad question |
| From: | "Lenny Iszak" <lenard(at)rapiddecision.com> |
Mike,
Only the 3G version has a built-in GPS.
You will still be able to use a bluetooth GPS in either unit as long as you have
it jailbroken.
Lenny
--------
Lenny
#40803
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=321067#321067
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: I-Pad question |
Either way I'd get the 3G version...for
GPS and the occasional data plan since you can go month to month.
The GPS built in actually works well and it's nice to use in the car too.
On Nov 26, 2010, at 4:42 AM, "Lenny Iszak" wrote:
>
> Mike,
>
> Only the 3G version has a built-in GPS.
>
> You will still be able to use a bluetooth GPS in either unit as long as you have
it jailbroken.
>
> Lenny
>
> --------
> Lenny
> #40803
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=321067#321067
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: I-Pad question |
| From: | Michael Kraus <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net> |
Gotta have the 3G model if you want an internal GPS. The wifi model does not have
a GPS. I have a 3G model but I don't have the 3G data activated (because
i have an iphone and don't want to pay for 2 data plans) and it works great as
a moving map gps, as long as you download the maps prior to flight. Just FYI,
It is really hard (if not impossible) to get a signal in the air long enough
for weather or map updates.
Sent from my iPhone
On Nov 26, 2010, at 1:51 AM, "AirMike" wrote:
>
> Thinking about buying an I-Pad. Should I get the 3G model so that I can get en-route
weather (when I can get a cel signal). Or is it a waste of money to get
the 3G model.
>
> --------
> See you OSH '11
> Q/B - flying 1 yr+
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=321066#321066
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: I-Pad question |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
No longer necessary. Bad Elf plug-in GPS and one blue tooth GPS are
Apple approved and work without jailbreaking. They cost 99 over the
cost of a wifi only iPad. http://bad-elf.com/products/gps/
The other is GNS 5870 MFI Bluetooth GPS , also sold through Amazon and
other sources.
On Fri, Nov 26, 2010 at 5:28 AM, Tim Olson wrote:
>
> Either way I'd get the 3G version...for
> GPS and the occasional data plan since you can go month to month.
> The GPS built in actually works well and it's nice to use in the car too.
>
>
> On Nov 26, 2010, at 4:42 AM, "Lenny Iszak" wrote:
>
>>
>> Mike,
>>
>> Only the 3G version has a built-in GPS.
>>
>> You will still be able to use a bluetooth GPS in either unit as long as you
have it jailbroken.
>>
>> Lenny
>>
>> --------
>> Lenny
>> #40803
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=321067#321067
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: I-Pad question |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
While the internal GPS in the iPad works well enough, it is not WAAS
and is really a low end GPS. The external GPS units available are much
closer to state of the art, with the Bad Elf stating it is WAAS and
10Hz cycle, which is better than your certified units that update at 5
Hz. The blue tooth GNS5870gps doesn't state whether it has WAAS, so
don't know about it beyond it being 32 channel.
On Fri, Nov 26, 2010 at 5:41 AM, Michael Kraus
wrote:
>
> Gotta have the 3G model if you want an internal GPS. The wifi model does not
have a GPS. I have a 3G model but I don't have the 3G data activated (because
i have an iphone and don't want to pay for 2 data plans) and it works great as
a moving map gps, as long as you download the maps prior to flight. Just FYI,
It is really hard (if not impossible) to get a signal in the air long enough
for weather or map updates.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Nov 26, 2010, at 1:51 AM, "AirMike" wrote:
>
>>
>> Thinking about buying an I-Pad. Should I get the 3G model so that I can get
en-route weather (when I can get a cel signal). Or is it a waste of money to get
the 3G model.
>>
>> --------
>> See you OSH '11
>> Q/B - flying 1 yr+
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=321066#321066
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Danny Riggs <jdriggs49(at)msn.com> |
I have the 3G model but have found that the ATT cell system to be fairly in
adequate. Also have IPhone. I would get the 3G model however as you can get
the GPS signal in a lot of places so you can usethemoving map features. Ho
wever=2C it's not very robust. I bought the Bad Elf WAAS GPS and it works g
reat. Locks on pretty quickly. It's 1"x1"x3/8" in size. Very small.
My son-in-law gave me a Verizon MiFi blue tooth that gives me access to the
ir system. They have better coverage it seems to me from trying it out. Wor
ks pretty good in the air in a lot of places to update while flying. I'm dr
opping my ATT account and going to Verizon on this one. With the Bad Elf=2C
the IPad is finally really usable for aviation. It won't be long until we
will be able reliably get in route weather at all times and all places.
P.S. The MiFi works well as a wifi router. I was in the basement of our chu
rch and my son-in-law was able to pick up and use the wifi signal upstairs
to access the Internet. He "claimed" he was looking up a Bible text. :-)
> Date: Fri=2C 26 Nov 2010 06:11:58 -0700
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: I-Pad question
> From: apilot2(at)gmail.com
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>
>
> While the internal GPS in the iPad works well enough=2C it is not WAAS
> and is really a low end GPS. The external GPS units available are much
> closer to state of the art=2C with the Bad Elf stating it is WAAS and
> 10Hz cycle=2C which is better than your certified units that update at 5
> Hz. The blue tooth GNS5870gps doesn't state whether it has WAAS=2C so
> don't know about it beyond it being 32 channel.
>
> On Fri=2C Nov 26=2C 2010 at 5:41 AM=2C Michael Kraus
> wrote:
net>
> >
> > Gotta have the 3G model if you want an internal GPS. The wifi model do
es not have a GPS. I have a 3G model but I don't have the 3G data activate
d (because i have an iphone and don't want to pay for 2 data plans) and it
works great as a moving map gps=2C as long as you download the maps prior t
o flight. Just FYI=2C It is really hard (if not impossible) to get a signal
in the air long enough for weather or map updates.
> >
> > Sent from my iPhone
> >
> > On Nov 26=2C 2010=2C at 1:51 AM=2C "AirMike" wro
te:
> >
> >>
> >> Thinking about buying an I-Pad. Should I get the 3G model so that I ca
n get en-route weather (when I can get a cel signal). Or is it a waste of m
oney to get the 3G model.
> >>
> >> --------
> >> See you OSH '11
> >> Q/B - flying 1 yr+
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> Read this topic online here:
> >>
> >> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=321066#321066
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Fwd: B: iPad GPS |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
>From a Beech list, piprep on the bluetooth gps for iPad.
---------- Forwarded message ----------
From: Glenn Olsen <glennolsen(at)earthlink.net>
Date: Fri, Nov 26, 2010 at 7:17 AM
Subject: Re: B: iPad GPS
I have one. The GNS 5870 MFI. Works great. Turn it on and pair it with
the iPad and it works with all GPS enabled apps. Great battery life,
but it probably won't make it from China to the US. It is a little bit
bigger than a Bic lighter. The DV windows in the Hawker have a spring
loaded handle and it is just thick enough that I can stick it
underneath the handle and it never loses signal. The receiver works
well enough that I can get a position fix in the basement of my house.
I do have some issues with the on/off switch. You swipe your finger
over it and it does not work every time. Have to hit the reset switch
with a paper clip every once in a while. I have a message into the
manufacturer to determine if the unit is defective or needs a software
update.
Glenn
On 11/26/2010 7:45 AM, brad haslett wrote:
>
> Sorry if this has already been covered. Has anyone tried the external GPS offered
by ForeFlight?
>
> http://blog.foreflight.com/2010/11/09/external-ipad-gps-receivers-for-foreflight-hd/
>
> I've had pretty good luck with the iPad internal GPS but not always. Next up,
who is working on a XM weather receiver for the iPad?
>
> Brad
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | curtis groote <cgroote1(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | And another iPad question |
I, too, am thinking about getting an iPad, mainly for charts. -Foreflight
recommends the iPad Wifi + 3G (this unit has an internal GPS receiver).
-However, they state that an external GPS source is sorely needed and rec
ommends getting the Bad Elf GPS to use with it.--Verizon's iPad is Wifi
enabled with an external Mifi router mobile hotspot. -So, you have essen
tially the same thing along with Verizon's across the country coverage. See
ms to me this is the better way to go. -Am I missing something?=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: And another iPad question |
I don't think any of you are missing anything. You all have
good points, and have pointed out good info. I'll try to show
my reasonings and point out how all your points fit.
First, it's all about options. If you don't get the 3G,
you're missing a couple of options...
Kelly (and Foreflight) is right. The built-in GPS isn't
fantastic in quality. It does, however, work reasonably
well and would probably do all you need, much of the time.
For in-flight navigation, if you don't already have an
EFIS doing all your precision work for you, you'd want
either the Jailbreak+Bluetooth GPS (which are usually WAAS),
or one of the 2 options for attached WAAS GPS's. This
would give you real precision. If you already have the
approach on the EFIS, it really isn't that big of a deal
to go through the trouble of the external GPS. The built-in
one is usually accurate for me within maybe 50'. Personally,
I feel your best option is to do both...have the 3G with
GPS, and also have an external. More on that...
Regarding the 3G, yeah, for me especially in our area, AT&T
sucks badly. But, when we travel, we often end up in
areas where AT&T works and works well. We bring the iPad
and on the larger trips and for OSH, we'll activate the
AT&T 3G plan for a month. It gives some great useability
in the car. We'll drive along looking for something,
and on google maps just google something like
"quality suites" and it'll drop pins on the map, and
we can click them and get directions and phone info
right on it. Looking for the Monterey Aquarium? Just
google-map it and it's there. So it's very handy to do
the 3G thing at times. We've only used it for 2 or 3
months in the last year, but when we wanted it, it was
there, and we didn't have to carry any attachable devices
to use it. That's worth something too.
Regarding MiFi and the like... I also have a mini router,
which I bet is probably the OEM source for the MiFi...not
sure on that. Cradlepoint.com though, check it out. I have
the PHS300, and for work, I have a verizon air card, which
is a USB cell device that plugs into the PHS300, or into
your laptop, giving you 3G coverage through Verizon. Around
here, that works way better than AT&T. It certainly works
REALLY well when traveling though, in that it's a normal
hotspot router, so I can get everyone in the family online
with their ipod touches, and laptops. So they're very very
handy to have...and yes, with that, I don't really need
to use the 3G. That said, it's still very nice to not
always have to remember those additional parts, and just
activate 3G. When I was in Monetery, I found times when
I had to switch to verizon, or AT&T, depending on my
location, to get good coverage. Neither provider gives
you 100% coverage.
Another thing that you can do with Jailbroken devices, like
my iphone and an iPad with 3G, is install MyWi, which lets
you share your 3G like a wi-fi hotspot. So, we've been on
trips where I activated the iPad 3G, and shared THAT 3G
coverage with the family or my laptop. And, I've found it
convenient to do the same from my iPhone, or just tether
it with the charging cable and do it that way, to my
laptop. It's something you can do with Jailbroken devices,
or pay AT&T an ungodly high rate for if you don't want to
jailbreak.
Also, regarding the iPad, if you buy any of the charting
apps, you'll want some space. 16GB will likely be fine,
but, if you want to go multi-purpose and have options once
again, get the big one. We completely fill our 64Gb iPad.
It's full of movies for the kids, music, and charts, mostly.
I have Foreflight HD, which is my favorite app. Makes for
awesome in-flight charts and approach plates, and all the
info that you'd need, in probably the best presentation
graphically of all the apps. Very nice for planning and
filing. Then there's WingX Pro 7. Over a year ago I used
WingX just to try it out, on the iphone. It was nice, but
they are as ugly as can be when it comes to colors and
graphical design on the iphone app. Today I bought a
Seattle Avionics lifetime iPad IFR data subscription since
they offered it for Black Friday. With that, I decided to
also spend the money to buy 12 months of WingX Pro 7,
plus another $30 for fuel price info. Foreflight does
much of what WingX does, but not all of it, and vice versa.
But, since I hate buying chart data, I figured today was
the day to waste a little cash and just do it...since
it was lifetime data. From playing with WingX, it looks
like when actually flying an approach, I'll probably use
their software. Since the fuel price info is cached, it's
useable in flight. I'll probably use foreflight for all
my pre planning, filing, weather planning, and for looking
at sectionals in flight. Then when it comes to flying
the approach, since today WingX has georeferenced approach
plates and actually a real nice split-screen view option,
I'll use that. I do believe that Foreflight will be coming
out with georeferenced approach plates though, so the money
I spent today was partially a waste. The Seattle Avionics
iPad data subscription is portable to their partner's apps,
WingX being one. My hope is that this will extend to
Foreflight if they partner in the same way. Again, it's
all about options...this time in software.
So while you can certainly save money and not get a 3G
model, I think it's great to not HAVE to bring my
Cradlepoint+verizon hotspot all the time, and not HAVE
to remember a bluetooth GPS, or any add on hardware. It's
nice when you want to be slim and trim to be able to
just grab the ipad on it's own, and have what you need to
get by. And, considering there are ways you can share the
3G service it offers with your other devices, it really
makes it possible to have ONLY an iPad 3G model and
no accessories, and still get the job done if you need.
To me, I'd rather spend a little more up front and have
more options. Wouldn't it stink if you had an add-on GPS,
and suddenly when you need it, you forgot it, or it went
titzup? AS SOON AS verizon gets the iPhone, I plan
to drop my AT&T iphone and get one. That will give me
both Verizon and AT&T 3G options, even without bringing
my Cradlepoint hotspot. That will help ensure I always
have one of the 2 providers with the least of accessories.
So yeah, there are more than 2 or 3 ways to skin cats
(although I just roast them fur on, with barbecue sauce )
and all have good points. It's just a matter of making
sure you see all of the potential things you may want to
do some day, and which tools you should have in your toolbox
to get you to what you need.
IMHO, none of the stuff you can get on an ipad really replaces
what you REALLY want to have....and that's a good EFIS,
with integrated weather, for in-flight use.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
On 11/26/2010 9:37 AM, curtis groote wrote:
> I, too, am thinking about getting an iPad, mainly for charts.
> Foreflight recommends the iPad Wifi + 3G (this unit has an internal GPS
> receiver). However, they state that an external GPS source is sorely
> needed and recommends getting the Bad Elf GPS to use with it.
> Verizon's iPad is Wifi enabled with an external Mifi router mobile
> hotspot. So, you have essentially the same thing along with Verizon's
> across the country coverage. Seems to me this is the better way to go.
> Am I missing something?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DLM" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: And another iPad question |
I bought the 64GB; I am using considerably less memory even with some
albums on there for IPOD. I suggest the 32GB or possibly 8GB with 3G,
WiFi and GPS. It seems that the charts part of Foreflight only takes
about 2GB? Somebody who has synced and look at your PC could probably
say for sure what Foreflight takes. For me it is the only significant
data storage app for me.
----- Original Message -----
From: curtis groote
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Friday, November 26, 2010 8:37 AM
Subject: RV10-List: And another iPad question
I, too, am thinking about getting an iPad, mainly for charts.
Foreflight recommends the iPad Wifi + 3G (this unit has an
internal GPS receiver). However, they state that an external GPS source
is sorely needed and recommends getting the Bad Elf GPS to use with it.
Verizon's iPad is Wifi enabled with an external Mifi router
mobile hotspot. So, you have essentially the same thing along with
Verizon's across the country coverage. Seems to me this is the better
way to go. Am I missing something?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: GPS antenna location |
I added some pics in my building log here:
http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=MauleDriver&project=224&category=4053&log=117562&row=2
On 11/24/2010 2:35 PM, Bill Watson wrote:
>
> I decided to optimize the mounting of the 430W antenna according to
> the best avionics advice I could find. The installation manual being
> first and and avionics shop owner second (Bill Betts, SparkChasers,
> KJNX). My thinking was 1) every source of advice has a bias 2) the
> performance of the 430W WAAS GPS being most important to me, 3) follow
> the avionics invested parties advice. So it's mounted on top of the
> cabin, right in the middle, far away from any possible interference,
> holes thru the cabin top, stuck out in the airstream.
>
> The are 3 or 4 other GPS antenna involved. Here I just tried to find
> good locations that should perform satisfactorily, provide easy
> installation/maintenance and be aesthetically pleasing. So 2 are
> mounted along upper rim of the windshield - a location that's worked
> well on my Maule. 1 or 2 are going to be velcroed to the glare
> shield. No holes, nothing sticking out, nothing being visually
> unpleasant.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: GPS antenna location |
Bill, thanks for the pics. But they posed the question why you mounted
the small GPS antennas under the upper windscreen rather than down on
the glareshield??? Inquiring minds want to know.
Linn
On 11/26/2010 2:08 PM, Bill Watson wrote:
>
> I added some pics in my building log here:
> http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=MauleDriver&project=224&category=4053&log=117562&row=2
>
>
> On 11/24/2010 2:35 PM, Bill Watson wrote:
>>
>> I decided to optimize the mounting of the 430W antenna according to
>> the best avionics advice I could find. The installation manual
>> being first and and avionics shop owner second (Bill Betts,
>> SparkChasers, KJNX). My thinking was 1) every source of advice has a
>> bias 2) the performance of the 430W WAAS GPS being most important to
>> me, 3) follow the avionics invested parties advice. So it's mounted
>> on top of the cabin, right in the middle, far away from any possible
>> interference, holes thru the cabin top, stuck out in the airstream.
>>
>> The are 3 or 4 other GPS antenna involved. Here I just tried to
>> find good locations that should perform satisfactorily, provide easy
>> installation/maintenance and be aesthetically pleasing. So 2 are
>> mounted along upper rim of the windshield - a location that's worked
>> well on my Maule. 1 or 2 are going to be velcroed to the glare
>> shield. No holes, nothing sticking out, nothing being visually
>> unpleasant.
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: GPS antenna location |
No reason than just to get them up and out of the way. I didn't think
they would interfere with visibility (?).
As I recall, the question I answered with the one antenna on the glare
shield is "why did they use such a plug so big I couldn't string it thru
the center strut"?
On 11/26/2010 2:16 PM, Linn Walters wrote:
>
> Bill, thanks for the pics. But they posed the question why you
> mounted the small GPS antennas under the upper windscreen rather than
> down on the glareshield??? Inquiring minds want to know.
> Linn
>
> On 11/26/2010 2:08 PM, Bill Watson wrote:
>>
>> I added some pics in my building log here:
>> http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=MauleDriver&project=224&category=4053&log=117562&row=2
>>
>>
>> On 11/24/2010 2:35 PM, Bill Watson wrote:
>>>
>>> I decided to optimize the mounting of the 430W antenna according to
>>> the best avionics advice I could find. The installation manual
>>> being first and and avionics shop owner second (Bill Betts,
>>> SparkChasers, KJNX). My thinking was 1) every source of advice has
>>> a bias 2) the performance of the 430W WAAS GPS being most important
>>> to me, 3) follow the avionics invested parties advice. So it's
>>> mounted on top of the cabin, right in the middle, far away from any
>>> possible interference, holes thru the cabin top, stuck out in the
>>> airstream.
>>>
>>> The are 3 or 4 other GPS antenna involved. Here I just tried to
>>> find good locations that should perform satisfactorily, provide easy
>>> installation/maintenance and be aesthetically pleasing. So 2 are
>>> mounted along upper rim of the windshield - a location that's worked
>>> well on my Maule. 1 or 2 are going to be velcroed to the glare
>>> shield. No holes, nothing sticking out, nothing being visually
>>> unpleasant.
>>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | davidsoutpost(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | Re: GPS antenna location |
I am several months away from starting work on the fiberglass canopy but what was
the reason for the tinted lexan cover over the GPS antenna's? Every antenna
in the Cozy MKIV we built is buried under the glass and works flawlessly. The
GNS 430 antenna was actually mounted on a shelf in the nose of the plane. and
is receiving through 4 layers of glass, 3/4"foam, and 3 more layers of glass.
David Clifford
RV-10 Builder
65% Done-95% To Go
N849RV (reserved)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Watson" <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Sent: Friday, November 26, 2010 6:26:46 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: GPS antenna location
No reason than just to get them up and out of the way. I didn't think
they would interfere with visibility (?).
As I recall, the question I answered with the one antenna on the glare
shield is "why did they use such a plug so big I couldn't string it thru
the center strut"?
On 11/26/2010 2:16 PM, Linn Walters wrote:
>
> Bill, thanks for the pics. But they posed the question why you
> mounted the small GPS antennas under the upper windscreen rather than
> down on the glareshield??? Inquiring minds want to know.
> Linn
>
> On 11/26/2010 2:08 PM, Bill Watson wrote:
>>
>> I added some pics in my building log here:
>> http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=MauleDriver&project=224&category=4053&log=117562&row=2
>>
>>
>> On 11/24/2010 2:35 PM, Bill Watson wrote:
>>>
>>> I decided to optimize the mounting of the 430W antenna according to
>>> the best avionics advice I could find. The installation manual
>>> being first and and avionics shop owner second (Bill Betts,
>>> SparkChasers, KJNX). My thinking was 1) every source of advice has
>>> a bias 2) the performance of the 430W WAAS GPS being most important
>>> to me, 3) follow the avionics invested parties advice. So it's
>>> mounted on top of the cabin, right in the middle, far away from any
>>> possible interference, holes thru the cabin top, stuck out in the
>>> airstream.
>>>
>>> The are 3 or 4 other GPS antenna involved. Here I just tried to
>>> find good locations that should perform satisfactorily, provide easy
>>> installation/maintenance and be aesthetically pleasing. So 2 are
>>> mounted along upper rim of the windshield - a location that's worked
>>> well on my Maule. 1 or 2 are going to be velcroed to the glare
>>> shield. No holes, nothing sticking out, nothing being visually
>>> unpleasant.
>>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DLM" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: GPS antenna location |
antennas do fail; you might want to change it. reception is not the
problem, maintenance is.
----- Original Message -----
From: davidsoutpost(at)comcast.net
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Friday, November 26, 2010 5:08 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: GPS antenna location
I am several months away from starting work on the fiberglass canopy
but what was the reason for the tinted lexan cover over the GPS
antenna's? Every antenna in the Cozy MKIV we built is buried under the
glass and works flawlessly. The GNS 430 antenna was actually mounted
on a shelf in the nose of the plane. and is receiving through 4 layers
of glass, 3/4"foam, and 3 more layers of glass.
David Clifford
RV-10 Builder
65% Done-95% To Go
N849RV (reserved)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Watson" <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com>
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Friday, November 26, 2010 6:26:46 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: GPS antenna location
No reason than just to get them up and out of the way. I didn't think
they would interfere with visibility (?).
As I recall, the question I answered with the one antenna on the glare
shield is "why did they use such a plug so big I couldn't string it
thru
the center strut"?
On 11/26/2010 2:16 PM, Linn Walters wrote:
>
> Bill, thanks for the pics. But they posed the question why you
> mounted the small GPS antennas under the upper windscreen rather
than
> down on the glareshield??? Inquiring minds want to know.
> Linn
>
> On 11/26/2010 2:08 PM, Bill Watson wrote:
>>
>> I added some pics in my building log here:
>>
http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=MauleDriver&project=
224&category=4053&log=117562&row=2
>>
>>
>> On 11/24/2010 2:35 PM, Bill Watson wrote:
>>>
>>> I decided to optimize the mounting of the 430W antenna according
to
>>> the best avionics advice I could find. The installation manual
>>> being first and and avionics shop owner second (Bill Betts,
>>> SparkChasers, KJNX). My thinking was 1) every source of advice
has
>>> a bias 2) the performance of the 430W WAAS GPS being most
important
>>> to me, 3) follow the avionics invested parties advice. So it's
>>> mounted on top of the cabin, right in the middle, far away from
any
>>> possible interference, holes thru the cabin top, stuck out in the
>>> airstream.
>>>
>>> The are 3 or 4 other GPS antenna involved. Here I just tried to
>>> find good locations that should perform satisfactorily, provide
easy
>>> installation/maintenance and be aesthetically pleasing. So 2 are
>>> mounted along upper rim of the windshield - a location that's
worked
>>> well on my Maule. 1 or 2 are going to be velcroed to the glare
>>> shield. No holes, nothing sticking out, nothing being visually
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | davidsoutpost(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | Re: GPS antenna location |
That's true,, however the antenna's appear to be easily accessible from ins
ide the cabin via the overhead console and weakening the integrity of the c
anopy could have been avoided.
David Clifford
RV-10 Builder
65% Done-95% To Go
N849RV (reserved)
----- Original Message -----
From: "DLM" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Sent: Friday, November 26, 2010 8:14:28 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: GPS antenna location
=EF=BB
antennas do fail; you might want to change it. reception is not the problem
, maintenance is.
----- Original Message -----
From: davidsoutpost(at)comcast.net
Sent: Friday, November 26, 2010 5:08 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: GPS antenna location
I am several months away from starting work on the fiberglass canopy but wh
at was the reason for the tinted lexan cover over the GPS antenna's? Every
antenna in the Cozy MKIV we built is buried under the glass and works flawl
essly. The GNS 430 antenna was actually mounted on a shelf in the nose of t
he plane. and is receiving through 4 layers of glass, 3/4"foam, and 3 more
layers of glass.
David Clifford
RV-10 Builder
65% Done-95% To Go
N849RV (reserved)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Watson" <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Sent: Friday, November 26, 2010 6:26:46 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: GPS antenna location
No reason than just to get them up and out of the way. I didn't think
they would interfere with visibility (?).
As I recall, the question I answered with the one antenna on the glare
shield is "why did they use such a plug so big I couldn't string it thru
the center strut"?
On 11/26/2010 2:16 PM, Linn Walters wrote:
>
> Bill, thanks for the pics. But they posed the question why you
> mounted the small GPS antennas under the upper windscreen rather than
> down on the glareshield??? Inquiring minds want to know.
> Linn
>
> On 11/26/2010 2:08 PM, Bill Watson wrote:
>>
>> I added some pics in my building log here:
>> http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=MauleDriver&project
=224&category=4053&log=117562&row=2
>>
>>
>> On 11/24/2010 2:35 PM, Bill Watson wrote:
>>>
>>> I decided to optimize the mounting of the 430W antenna according to
>>> the best avionics advice I could find. The installation manual
>>> being first and and avionics shop owner second (Bill Betts,
>>> SparkChasers, KJNX). My thinking was 1) every source of advice has
>>> a bias 2) the performance of the 430W WAAS GPS being most important
>>> to me, 3) follow the avionics invested parties advice. So it's
>>> mounted on top of the cabin, right in the middle, far away from any
>>> possible interference, holes thru the cabin top, stuck out in the
>>> airstream.
>>>
>>> The are 3 or 4 other GPS antenna involved. Here I just tried to
>>> find good locations that should perform satisfactorily, provide easy
>>> installation/maintenance and be aesthetically pleasing. So 2 are
>>> mounted along upper rim of the windshield - a location that's worked
>>> well on my Maule. 1 or 2 are going to be velcroed to the glare
>>> shield. No holes, nothing sticking out, nothing being visually
href="http://www.aeroelectric.com">www.aeroelectric.com
href="http://www.buildersbooks.com">www.buildersbooks.com
href="http://www.homebuilthelp.com">www.homebuilthelp.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/chr
ef="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.co
m/Navigator?RV10-List
=======
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Off Topic--FAA Rulemaking |
This just popped up on my radar. I hadn't heard anything about it.
http://edocket.access.gpo.gov/2010/2010-27834.htm
To summarize, A&Ps with an Inspection Authorization (IA) currently
have to be "actively engaged" in the industry to be eligible to renew
their ticket. This proposal would redefine "actively engaged" as
full time employment. Otherwise, you get to have your status
evaluated by an FAA inspector who then decides if you are sufficiently
engaged.
And, since FAA inspectors aren't "actively engaged", they get to
automatically keep their IAs to use when no longer employed by FAA.
Pass this on to any IAs you know. The comment period closes December 6th.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA 95076
831-722-9141 Shop
831-750-0284 Cell
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | engine mount ears and attaching the Bendix Throttle body |
Two questions=2C one was never completely answerred in the archives.
Would like to confirm the torque values on the 3/8-16 studs which attach th
e mount ears to the engine case. The confusion for me is=2C yes it is a 3/8
bolt=2C but it is a stud coming out of the case. Table I=2C of the SERVICE
TABLE OF LIMITS=2C for a 3/8 bolt gives a torque value of 30 Ft/lbs=2C but
when you look at the parts manual=2C these four bolts coming out of the ca
se are called 3/8-16 studs and Table V gives a Min. Driving Torque value.
What is the correct answer????? I need the torque on the 5/16-18 studs for
the attachment of the throttle body also.
I am surprised that the engine mount ear studs do not specify a value...I w
ould think them to be very important.
I cannot find any literature explaing the attachment of the throttle body.
I have two gaskets which look similar and I have a bag of self looking nuts
=2C plain washers and some star lock washers. There are (16) of these self
locking silver colored nuts=2C what are they for????The engine came with nu
ts and stackes of washers holding the Delrin plastic plate which kept the e
ngine preservative in. Are these nuts not to be used?
Thanks
John 409
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: engine mount ears and attaching the Bendix Throttle body |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
You need to get hold of the Lycoming manual. (search on line). Many of the torques
recommended by Lycoming are higher than standard for AN. I don't know why.
Maybe because they also use lock washers? Or the high vibration levels?
You got 2 gaskets so if you use Van's part to hold the cable ends, it goes between
the throttle body and the engine, with one gasket on either side.
Bob
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=321117#321117
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | No "Black Friday" For List Fund Raiser... |
Dear Listers,
Curiously, even though the number of List subscriptions are significantly up this
year, support during this year's Fund Raiser is still substantially behind
last year. There are only a couple more days left in November and the end of
the Fund Raiser is quickly approaching.
I have always preferred a non-commercial List experience as many, many members
have also expressed that they do as well. However, if the yearly fund raiser
cannot generate sufficient funds to keep the bills paid, other sources of income
might be required including some sort of advertising. Please don't let that
happen! Your personal Contribution of $20 or $30 goes a long ways to keeping
the operation a float.
Please make sure your name is on this year's List of Contributors published in
December.
The Contribution site is secure, quick, and easy:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Or, drop a personal check in the mail to:
Matt Dralle / Matronics
581 Jeannie Way
Livermore CA 94550
USA
Thank you in advance for your support!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List and Forum Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: engine mount ears and attaching the Bendix Throttle |
body
Hi Bob=2C
I have all the manuals and I am still confused. The service table of limits
says=2C "standard torque unless otherwise listed." That means all those ot
her lised items in Section V have special requirements.
The beginning of section V lists=2C Studs. Although is uses the word studs
=2C it doesn't say=2C Engine mount ear studs.
Looking at the parts manual=2C the nomenclature spells out these four bolts
=2C sixteen total=2C eminating out of the case=2C which attach to the engi
ne mount ears as=2C STUDS.
The service table of limits states Minimum driving torque in Inch/pounds wi
th very low values. These low values would make no sense for these engine e
ar studs.
One would think that these studs holding the engine mount ears would be lis
ted=2C as they would need to be very strong=2C handle vibration and heat. S
o I am assuming that they have the standard torque for a 3/8-16 bolt of 30
Ft/Lbs. But under section V=2C 3/8-16 studs are listed as 50 Inch/Lbs...thi
s is a huge difference!!!
I am simply trying to be very thorough as I have broken bolts and screws wi
th these long torque wrenches before and these studs are very important.
Thanks=2C
John
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: engine mount ears and attaching the Bendix Thrott
le body
> From: bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu
> Date: Fri=2C 26 Nov 2010 22:01:03 -0800
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>
>
> You need to get hold of the Lycoming manual. (search on line). Many of th
e torques recommended by Lycoming are higher than standard for AN. I don't
know why. Maybe because they also use lock washers? Or the high vibration l
evels?
>
> You got 2 gaskets so if you use Van's part to hold the cable ends=2C it g
oes between the throttle body and the engine=2C with one gasket on either s
ide.
>
> Bob
>
> --------
> Bob Turner
> RV-10 QB
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=321117#321117
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sheldon Olesen <saolesen(at)sirentel.net> |
| Subject: | Retrofit stall warning system |
I didn't put the stall warning system in when I built the plane and instead decided
to use the angle of attack warning. I now think this was a mistake.
Has anyone retrofitted the stall warning system on a completed plane, and if so,
how difficult was the process?
Sheldon Olesen
N475PV 237 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: engine mount ears and attaching the Bendix Throttle |
body
I'm definitely no expert, but thought I'd comment anyway.
On 11/27/2010 10:01 AM, John Gonzalez wrote:
> Hi Bob,
>
> I have all the manuals and I am still confused. The service table of
> limits says, "*standard torque unless otherwise listed*." That means
> all those other lised items in Section V have special requirements.
>
> The beginning of section V lists, *Studs*. Although is uses the word
> studs, it *doesn't* say, *Engine mount ear studs.*
That would imply that a stud is a stud ...... and we're talking
fasteners here!!!
>
> Looking at the parts manual, the *nomenclature *spells out these four
> bolts, sixteen total, eminating out of the case, which attach to the
> engine mount ears as, *STUDS*.
OK. Sounds good to me.
>
> The service table of limits states Minimum driving torque in
> *Inch/pounds* with very low values. These low values would make no
> sense for these engine ear studs.
>
> One would think that these studs holding the engine mount ears would
> be listed, as they would need to be very strong, handle vibration and
> heat. So I am assuming that they have the standard torque for a 3/8-16
> bolt of 30 Ft/Lbs. But under section V, 3/8-16 *studs* are listed as
> 50 Inch/Lbs...this is a huge difference!!!
I haven't looked, but I think these studs are in shear, not tension????
Please correct me if I'm wrong. No matter how tight you get the stud,
it won't change it's 'holding power'. It did surprise me the difference
in torque on bolts Vs. studs though.
>
> I am simply trying to be very thorough as I have broken bolts and
> screws with these long torque wrenches before and these studs are very
> important.
Very important indeed. If you're still concerned, use some Loctite
...... or lock nuts.
Linn
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> John
>
> > Subject: RV10-List: Re: engine mount ears and attaching the Bendix
> Throttle body
> > From: bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu
> > Date: Fri, 26 Nov 2010 22:01:03 -0800
> > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> >
> >
> > You need to get hold of the Lycoming manual. (search on line). Many
> of the torques recommended by Lycoming are higher than standard for
> AN. I don't know why. Maybe because they also use lock washers? Or the
> high vibration levels?
> >
> > You got 2 gaskets so if you use Van's part to hold the cable ends,
> it goes between the throttle body and the engine, with one gasket on
> either side.
> >
> > Bob
> >
> > --------
> > Bob Turner
> > RV-10 QB
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Read this topic online here:
> >
> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=321117#321117
> >
> >
> >
> > <======================
> &g==
> >
> >
> >
> *
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: engine mount ears and attaching the Bendix Throttle |
body
As to your mount ears...the table you are looking at for minimum driving
torque I believe is for installation of studs into the case. You can
always call Lycoming. I expect the 30 ft lbs you are looking at for the
nuts securing the ears to the studs.
You can always call Lycoming.
On 11/27/2010 8:01 AM, John Gonzalez wrote:
> Hi Bob,
>
> I have all the manuals and I am still confused. The service table of
> limits says, "*standard torque unless otherwise listed*." That means
> all those other lised items in Section V have special requirements.
>
> The beginning of section V lists, *Studs*. Although is uses the word
> studs, it *doesn't* say, *Engine mount ear studs.*
>
> Looking at the parts manual, the *nomenclature *spells out these four
> bolts, sixteen total, eminating out of the case, which attach to the
> engine mount ears as, *STUDS*.
>
> The service table of limits states Minimum driving torque in
> *Inch/pounds* with very low values. These low values would make no
> sense for these engine ear studs.
>
> One would think that these studs holding the engine mount ears would
> be listed, as they would need to be very strong, handle vibration and
> heat. So I am assuming that they have the standard torque for a 3/8-16
> bolt of 30 Ft/Lbs. But under section V, 3/8-16 *studs* are listed as
> 50 Inch/Lbs...this is a huge difference!!!
>
> I am simply trying to be very thorough as I have broken bolts and
> screws with these long torque wrenches before and these studs are very
> important.
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> John
>
> > Subject: RV10-List: Re: engine mount ears and attaching the Bendix
> Throttle body
> > From: bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu
> > Date: Fri, 26 Nov 2010 22:01:03 -0800
> > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> >
> >
> > You need to get hold of the Lycoming manual. (search on line). Many
> of the torques recommended by Lycoming are higher than standard for
> AN. I don't know why. Maybe because they also use lock washers? Or the
> high vibration levels?
> >
> > You got 2 gaskets so if you use Van's part to hold the cable ends,
> it goes between the throttle body and the engine, with one gasket on
> either side.
> >
> > Bob
> >
> > --------
> > Bob Turner
> > RV-10 QB
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Read this topic online here:
> >
> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=321117#321117
> >
> >
> >
> > <======================
> &g==
> >
> >
> >
> *
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Retrofit stall warning system |
Well, having put the stall warning vane in awhile back, I'd say you
would need to remove the fuel tank for access, then fish the wiring,
probably not to hard through behind the spar to the wing root...just
removing the inspection panels for......access. The install to the rib
adjacent to the slot is not too hard, although you may need to use a few
pop rivets if you don't have room for solid rivets.
On 11/27/2010 8:19 AM, Sheldon Olesen wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Sheldon Olesen
>
>
> I didn't put the stall warning system in when I built the plane and instead decided
to use the angle of attack warning. I now think this was a mistake.
> Has anyone retrofitted the stall warning system on a completed plane, and if
so, how difficult was the process?
>
> Sheldon Olesen
> N475PV 237 hrs
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Retrofit stall warning system |
On 11/27/2010 10:19 AM, Sheldon Olesen wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Sheldon Olesen
>
>
> I didn't put the stall warning system in when I built the plane and instead decided
to use the angle of attack warning. I now think this was a mistake.
Why would it be a mistake? Just curious.
Linn
>
> Has anyone retrofitted the stall warning system on a completed plane, and if
so, how difficult was the process?
>
> Sheldon Olesen
> N475PV 237 hrs
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Retrofit stall warning system |
| From: | David Leikam <daveleikam(at)wi.rr.com> |
I am curious to know your reason for this decision?
David Leikam
RV10
N89DA
On Nov 27, 2010, at 8:19 AM, Sheldon Olesen wrote:
>
>
> I didn't put the stall warning system in when I built the plane and instead decided
to use the angle of attack warning. I now think this was a mistake.
> Has anyone retrofitted the stall warning system on a completed plane, and if
so, how difficult was the process?
>
> Sheldon Olesen
> N475PV 237 hrs
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DLM" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Retrofit stall warning system |
Disregarding the paint ; it appears as though it would be mechanically easy
but runnung the iwring ino the panel will take a lot of time. But the
question is
WHY? At the stall is approached the elevator shakes like rag doll and is
easily felt in the stick
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Leikam" <daveleikam(at)wi.rr.com>
Sent: Saturday, November 27, 2010 9:35 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Retrofit stall warning system
>
> I am curious to know your reason for this decision?
>
> David Leikam
> RV10
> N89DA
>
>
> On Nov 27, 2010, at 8:19 AM, Sheldon Olesen wrote:
>
>>
>>
>> I didn't put the stall warning system in when I built the plane and
>> instead decided to use the angle of attack warning. I now think this was
>> a mistake.
>> Has anyone retrofitted the stall warning system on a completed plane, and
>> if so, how difficult was the process?
>>
>> Sheldon Olesen
>> N475PV 237 hrs
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sheldon Olesen <saolesen(at)sirentel.net> |
| Subject: | Retrofit Stall warning Decision |
On my last flight to FL, I was getting ready to land at KVNC when a helicopter
called. He stated he was at 200' long the coast and heading toward KVNC. About
20 minutes prior to this I was nearly involved in a mid-air flying around the
Tampa Class B. I didn't get a TIS warning because the 480 quit commicating
with the 330. I switched to the EFIS map and was shocked to see a red warning
flashing. A twin flew directly under me at about about 100-200' below. Because
of this close encounter of the metallic kind, I got really distracted about
the helicopter. As a result I was paying too much attention to the outside
and not enough attention to the A/S. I did eventually hear the AOA warning but
it was VERY easy to ignore as ANOTHER VOICE on the radio. I now think the horn
would be a different sound and catch the pilot's attention if all else fails.
Sheldon Olesen
N475PV 237 hrs and still in one piece and I'm trying to keep it that way!
Sent from my iPad
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Retrofit stall warning system |
| From: | "John Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> |
Sheldon, can you share why you think your action was a mistake?
John Cox
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of Sheldon Olesen
Sent: Sat 11/27/2010 7:19 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Retrofit stall warning system
I didn't put the stall warning system in when I built the plane and
instead decided to use the angle of attack warning. I now think this
was a mistake.
Has anyone retrofitted the stall warning system on a completed plane,
and if so, how difficult was the process?
Sheldon Olesen
N475PV 237 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Retrofit Stall warning Decision |
Wow! That was exciting!!! FWIW, we've had two destroyed and one
damaged due to practicing too slow flight close to the ground. No
fatalities.
However, the close encounters had nothing to do with the A/S. As
someone else pointed out the tail shakes before the stall (but I don't
know about that either), so a stall warning horn may not have helped.
As you gain more experience (not like the close encounter kinds) you'll
feel and hear what your airplane does. That will serve you better than
a stall warning. Having said that, which one do you 'count on', the AOA
or the stall horn????
Some observations: When I'm approaching my destination I pull the
throttle back to give me about 80 in level flight .... different RPM for
different airplanes. In the pattern, usually on base, I'll reset the
power for my descent to the runway. I don't have to look inside the
cockpit once I'm in the pattern. Looking and listening are my top
priorities.
I'd be more worried why you had the equipment failure, and whether you
could increase the volume or type of sound of the AOA.
Linn
On 11/27/2010 12:38 PM, Sheldon Olesen wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Sheldon Olesen
>
> On my last flight to FL, I was getting ready to land at KVNC when a helicopter
called. He stated he was at 200' long the coast and heading toward KVNC. About
20 minutes prior to this I was nearly involved in a mid-air flying around
the Tampa Class B. I didn't get a TIS warning because the 480 quit commicating
with the 330. I switched to the EFIS map and was shocked to see a red warning
flashing. A twin flew directly under me at about about 100-200' below. Because
of this close encounter of the metallic kind, I got really distracted about
the helicopter. As a result I was paying too much attention to the outside
and not enough attention to the A/S. I did eventually hear the AOA warning
but it was VERY easy to ignore as ANOTHER VOICE on the radio. I now think the
horn would be a different sound and catch the pilot's attention if all else
fails.
>
>
> Sheldon Olesen
> N475PV 237 hrs and still in one piece and I'm trying to keep it that way!
>
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Interior door handle mechanism |
| From: | "woxofswa" <woxof(at)aol.com> |
Anybody know of aftermarket interior door handles that don't look like they belong
on a soap box derby car?
Thanks in advance.
--------
Myron Nelson
Mesa, AZ
Emp completed, QB wings completed, legacy build fuse in mostly done, finishing
kit in progress.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=321222#321222
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Retrofit Stall warning Decision |
There's the case for the stone simple electro-mechanical stall warning
system. Under normal conditions and following normal procedures, stall
warning shouldn't be an issue. Given any interruptions, abnormal
conditions or abnormal procedures, that's when the backup warning is
needed. Same goes for gear warnings but we don't have that problem.
On 11/27/2010 12:38 PM, Sheldon Olesen wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Sheldon Olesen
>
> On my last flight to FL, I was getting ready to land at KVNC when a helicopter
called. He stated he was at 200' long the coast and heading toward KVNC. About
20 minutes prior to this I was nearly involved in a mid-air flying around
the Tampa Class B. I didn't get a TIS warning because the 480 quit commicating
with the 330. I switched to the EFIS map and was shocked to see a red warning
flashing. A twin flew directly under me at about about 100-200' below. Because
of this close encounter of the metallic kind, I got really distracted about
the helicopter. As a result I was paying too much attention to the outside
and not enough attention to the A/S. I did eventually hear the AOA warning
but it was VERY easy to ignore as ANOTHER VOICE on the radio. I now think the
horn would be a different sound and catch the pilot's attention if all else
fails.
>
>
> Sheldon Olesen
> N475PV 237 hrs and still in one piece and I'm trying to keep it that way!
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
| Subject: | Interior door handle mechanism |
Yes, Geoff Combs showed a product at OSH this year that he's about ready
to start selling. If anyone has photos of his aircraft at OSH online,
you can see them. You'll need to talk with Geoff to get details and
availability timing.
bob
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of woxofswa
Sent: Saturday, November 27, 2010 3:30 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Interior door handle mechanism
Anybody know of aftermarket interior door handles that don't look like they
belong on a soap box derby car?
Thanks in advance.
--------
Myron Nelson
Mesa, AZ
Emp completed, QB wings completed, legacy build fuse in mostly done,
finishing kit in progress.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=321222#321222
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "g.combs" <g.combs(at)aerosportmodeling.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Interior door handle mechanism |
Myron these will be available very soon from Aerosport Products. They are a
30 minute install to any stock RV-10 door handle. They will come with gear
box cover as seen
in the photo.
Geoff
www.aerosportproducts.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "woxofswa" <woxof(at)aol.com>
Sent: Saturday, November 27, 2010 3:29 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Interior door handle mechanism
>
> Anybody know of aftermarket interior door handles that don't look like
> they belong on a soap box derby car?
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> --------
> Myron Nelson
> Mesa, AZ
> Emp completed, QB wings completed, legacy build fuse in mostly done,
> finishing kit in progress.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=321222#321222
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | davidsoutpost(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | Re: Retrofit stall warning system |
Sheldon,
I also have AOA but elected to put in the stall warning when I built the plane.
It is an added safety feature that cost nothing additional since it came with
the kit other than a few hours of time. I listened to all the nay sayers but
went with common sense. It will take you a bit longer to retro-fit but I say do
it if you want that added warning.
David Clifford
RV-10 Builder
65% Done-95% To Go
N849RV (reserved)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Sheldon Olesen" <saolesen(at)sirentel.net>
Sent: Saturday, November 27, 2010 10:19:05 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Retrofit stall warning system
I didn't put the stall warning system in when I built the plane and instead decided
to use the angle of attack warning. I now think this was a mistake.
Has anyone retrofitted the stall warning system on a completed plane, and if so,
how difficult was the process?
Sheldon Olesen
N475PV 237 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Retrofit Stall warning Decision |
| From: | Sheldon Olesen <saolesen(at)sirentel.net> |
Linn, John and others,
Thank you all for the comments. That's what makes the list valuable. My initial
analysis of the AOA vs stall horn came down squarely on the side of the AOA.
My point is that in a high traffic area with heavy radio traffic the warning
message can get lost in all the radio traffic coming through the audio panel.
At the time I was flying, there was almost constant radio traffic that competed
with the message the AOA sent. While sitting in my hanger the AOA message
is more than adequate, but when in a high radio traffic area and being distracted
the message may get lost. An AOA that could give the "Angle, angle, push"
warning and then trigger a horn closer to the stall event would be more
ideal in my estimation. Since my AOA cannot trigger a horn then the next best
thing is the old stall warning system.
The plane never got into stall buffet and probably wasn't that close to a stall
situation. I setup the plane to fly at a certain air speed in the pattern, base,
and final. I try to look outside the plane as much as possible and just
glance at the ASI to make sure all is well. I do use the AOA and try and keep
2 yellow lights during the descent for landing. After "incidents" while
flying I try to analyze what went wrong and try to eliminate the cause. I sure
would hate for my "incident" to raise the insurance rates for the rest of you
and make funeral directors happy.
As far as the equipment failure is concerned, I have checked the wiring between
the 480 and the 330 and all is okay. I think the 480 is failing because I am
now getting warnings for the air fuel data, the transponder and I have noticed
the ILS vertical needle is missing during startup. I still need to check the
software settings for both the the 330 and the 480. Realistically, I think
a trip to avionics shop is in order.
Sheldon Olesen
N475PV
On Nov 27, 2010, at 1:03 PM, Linn Walters wrote:
>
> Wow! That was exciting!!! FWIW, we've had two destroyed and one damaged due
to practicing too slow flight close to the ground. No fatalities.
>
> However, the close encounters had nothing to do with the A/S. As someone else
pointed out the tail shakes before the stall (but I don't know about that either),
so a stall warning horn may not have helped. As you gain more experience
(not like the close encounter kinds) you'll feel and hear what your airplane
does. That will serve you better than a stall warning. Having said that, which
one do you 'count on', the AOA or the stall horn????
>
> Some observations: When I'm approaching my destination I pull the throttle back
to give me about 80 in level flight .... different RPM for different airplanes.
In the pattern, usually on base, I'll reset the power for my descent to
the runway. I don't have to look inside the cockpit once I'm in the pattern.
Looking and listening are my top priorities.
>
> I'd be more worried why you had the equipment failure, and whether you could
increase the volume or type of sound of the AOA.
>
> Linn
>
>
> On 11/27/2010 12:38 PM, Sheldon Olesen wrote:
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Sheldon Olesen
>>
>> On my last flight to FL, I was getting ready to land at KVNC when a helicopter
called. He stated he was at 200' long the coast and heading toward KVNC.
About 20 minutes prior to this I was nearly involved in a mid-air flying around
the Tampa Class B. I didn't get a TIS warning because the 480 quit commicating
with the 330. I switched to the EFIS map and was shocked to see a red warning
flashing. A twin flew directly under me at about about 100-200' below. Because
of this close encounter of the metallic kind, I got really distracted about
the helicopter. As a result I was paying too much attention to the outside
and not enough attention to the A/S. I did eventually hear the AOA warning
but it was VERY easy to ignore as ANOTHER VOICE on the radio. I now think the
horn would be a different sound and catch the pilot's attention if all else
fails.
>>
>>
>>
>> Sheldon Olesen
>> N475PV 237 hrs and still in one piece and I'm trying to keep it that way!
>>
>>
>> Sent from my iPad
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Interior door handle mechanism |
| From: | "woxofswa" <woxof(at)aol.com> |
That's what I'm talking about.
Cuanto dinero?
--------
Myron Nelson
Mesa, AZ
Emp completed, QB wings completed, legacy build fuse in mostly done, finishing
kit in progress.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=321228#321228
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Schmidt <scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Retrofit stall warning system |
I almost did not install the stall warning because I also have the AOA. I am
not sure if I would miss it. I have my AOA talking to me about 5 knots abov
e stall. I do see the light come on in a full stall(I have no alarm). Is you
r AOA working correctly and properly calibrated?
Sent from my iPhone
On Nov 27, 2010, at 2:07 PM, davidsoutpost(at)comcast.net wrote:
> Sheldon,
> I also have AOA but elected to put in the stall warning when I built the p
lane. It is an added safety feature that cost nothing additional since it c
ame with the kit other than a few hours of time. I listened to all the nay s
ayers but went with common sense. It will take you a bit longer to retro-fi
t but I say do it if you want that added warning.
>
> David Clifford
>
> RV-10 Builder
> 65% Done-95% To Go
> N849RV (reserved)
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Sheldon Olesen" <saolesen(at)sirentel.net>
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Sent: Saturday, November 27, 2010 10:19:05 AM
> Subject: RV10-List: Retrofit stall warning system
>
>
>
> I didn't put the stall warning system in when I built the plane and instea
d decided to use the angle of attack warning. I now think this was a mistak
e.
> Has anyone retrofitted the stall warning system on a completed plane, and i
f so, how difficult was the process?
>
> Sheldon Olesen
> N475PV 237 hrs
> nbsp; -Matt Dralle, List Ad============
=====
>
>
>
>
>
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Schmidt <scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Retrofit Stall warning Decision |
Ignore my previous post.
Sent from my iPhone
On Nov 27, 2010, at 10:38 AM, Sheldon Olesen wrote:
>
> On my last flight to FL, I was getting ready to land at KVNC when a helicopter
called. He stated he was at 200' long the coast and heading toward KVNC. About
20 minutes prior to this I was nearly involved in a mid-air flying around
the Tampa Class B. I didn't get a TIS warning because the 480 quit commicating
with the 330. I switched to the EFIS map and was shocked to see a red warning
flashing. A twin flew directly under me at about about 100-200' below. Because
of this close encounter of the metallic kind, I got really distracted about
the helicopter. As a result I was paying too much attention to the outside
and not enough attention to the A/S. I did eventually hear the AOA warning
but it was VERY easy to ignore as ANOTHER VOICE on the radio. I now think the
horn would be a different sound and catch the pilot's attention if all else
fails.
>
>
>
> Sheldon Olesen
> N475PV 237 hrs and still in one piece and I'm trying to keep it that way!
>
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: engine mount ears and attaching the Bendix Throttle body |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
The whole business of torquing fasteners is black magic as far as I'm concerned.
It's amazing it works at all. Remember what you want is a certain amount of
bolt stretch (pre-load). But most of the torque is needed to overcome friction.
So any oil on the threads will make the stated torque value way off. McCauley
props are put on with relatively low torque but also with a specified lubricant.
I have to think that the star washers Lycoming uses makes a difference in
the requirements too.
My guess (and it is just a guess): putting in studs involves no preload, so the
stated 50 in lbs may be what's needed to engage a certain number of threads.
It may also be what's needed to hold against the 30 ft lbs when the nut is put
on, and the stud is loaded against the threads. Worst case, when you install
the nut, the stud will turn in more until it too is at 30 ft lbs.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=321236#321236
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Retrofit Stall warning Decision |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
I assume the AOA is coming from an EFIS of some sort?
It would be very easy to build a threshold detector which would set off some sort
of alarm whenever an audio message was sent out. Of course, all audio messages
would then set off the alarm.
If the AOA is stand-alone, then this could be a solution.
As others have said, biggest part of the job will be removing the fuel tank. I
have a QB wing, and the fuel tank had to come out. After that, as I recall, it
helps to have long skinny arms (I don't) to get at the nuts and bolts that hold
the switch in place.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=321238#321238
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com> |
| Subject: | NavWorx ADS-B on Dynon SkyView |
I just wanted to post a quick description of my experience installing a NavWorx
ADS600-B Transceiver coupled to a Dynon SkyView system.
First, I have done one previous installation of a NavWorx ADS-B receiver (not the
transceiver) coupled to an AFS screen. This was, I think, almost a year ago,
and it took a lot of doing to get it working, but I think it was a matter of
AFS and NavWorx not fully understanding how the other had their system setup,
so it took some talking to both of them to get things working in the air, although
turning it on in demo mode on the ground did show target(s) on the AFS
display. I don't remember what the final settings needed to be for the AFS.
Bill at NavWorx is fairly good to deal with. I don't fully understand the difference
between 1090 and UAT (those may not even be the two systems, or they may
be the same). I think Bill said that the UAT system that the NavWorx system
works on is better than 1090. Anyway, there didn't seem to be any other options
that were reasonably prices, so NavWorx it is.
At the present time, Dynon doesn't support the ARINC output that you can get from
the NavWorx box, so it is limited to TIS format traffic (8 targets, 7 nm distance,
3500' above, 3000 below) and no weather at this time. Dynon supports
the Mode-S traffic from a GTX-330 Transponder, so I asked Bill to just preprogram
the unit to output the 330 traffic format and I set the Dynon to output serial
encoder data for the ADS-B and to import serial TIS data from a 330. It
worked perfectly from the start. I installed the ADS-B box back next to the battery
on the side of the tailcone with the GPS antenna on the roof and the UAT
antenna on the floor. The NavWorx transceiver came with 2 11' cables of RG-400
with TNC connectors on one end. I just trimmed them to length and crimped
a BNC connector on the other end for the antennas. I then crimped the power,
ground, encoder input, tis output, 3-pin programming connector and 2 ARINC wires
for future use and ran them to the panel where the 2 serial cables hooked
into the Dynon.
On first tryout on the ground I put the NavWorx box into demo mode and I immediately
saw one target on the Dynon map view, slowly circling my position on the
map. Then, as it approached the front of the plane on the map screen, the target
showed up as a grey diamond on the synthetic vision display. I didn't remember
reading that it would show there. That was very impressive. It didn't
show any range or altitude info on the SV screen, but it did show the relative
altitude on the map display. When in normal TIS mode on the ground, the Dynon
screen shows that it is getting a signal from the traffic system, but that
there are no targets ("NONE" on the screen). Once I took off to test it in flight,
it almost immediately showed the local traffic on the map screen and, when
in front of me, on the SV screen as well. When I was flying the patter, however,
and I was in fairly close proximity to a Cessna flying very slowly in front
of me, it showed a yellow circle with the number "1" in it, right on the
horizon line. It also displayed a yellow "Traffic" alert on both the SV and map
displays. I don't know the criteria it uses, but that is a really handy feature,
IMHO. They may all do that now, but I am very impressed with that feature.
I am in an area that is on the edge of the Orlando Mode-S coverage area. At pattern
altitude and usually down to a couple of hundred feet, I get traffic when
flying with a GTX-330 transponder. With the ADS-B I get traffic from below
100' and well beyond the Mode-S coverage area when flying. I don't know what
the current ADS-B coverage is, but I think it covers most of the east coast, including
all (or almost all) of Florida. I think the Miami stations require you
to be broadcasting ADS-B to be able to receive it, but with the $2,500 transceiver
from NavWorx, you get both.
In summary, it was a breeze getting the NavWorx and Dynon boxes talking to eachother.
On another Dynon note, the SkyView was a fairly simple upgrade from the D-180 system
and so far everything worked right from the start except Fuel Pressure,
for some reason. The calibration of the AHRS was super simple, easier than previously
on the D- systems. I just taxied around and when the gps track showed
180, the Dynon in calib mode showed South and then I just stopped, told it go
save the data, which took about 10 seconds, then I kept taxiing for the other
3 directions. Very simple to do, in very Dynon style.
The AOA pitot from Dynon, which I never could get calibrated well on the D-180,
calibrated quite easily in flight with the SkyView and seems to work quite well.
It displays right next to and below the airspeed number, which seems to be
a good place to have it. For those recently talking about the stall warning
and AOA in the -10, I personally only glance at the airspeed a couple of times
while on final, mainly for verifying the flap speeds, and then just feel the
proximity to a stall. It usually touches down in the mid 50's, so approaching
even in the mid to high 60's is fairly comfortable, although I usually approach
in the 70's and am over the fence around 65 (all or these in knots).
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: NavWorx ADS-B on Dynon SkyView |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
Thanks for the report Jesse. Embry Riddle there in FL is supposed to have
had ADS-B for a long time, and I imagine the rest of the state probably has
it by now. This makes considering the Skyview much stronger vs GRT and AFS.
On Sat, Nov 27, 2010 at 7:17 PM, Jesse Saint wrote:
>
> I just wanted to post a quick description of my experience installing a
> NavWorx ADS600-B Transceiver coupled to a Dynon SkyView system.
>
>
> I am in an area that is on the edge of the Orlando Mode-S coverage area.
> At pattern altitude and usually down to a couple of hundred feet, I get
> traffic when flying with a GTX-330 transponder. With the ADS-B I get
> traffic from below 100' and well beyond the Mode-S coverage area when
> flying. I don't know what the current ADS-B coverage is, but I think it
> covers most of the east coast, including all (or almost all) of Florida. I
> think the Miami stations require you to be broadcasting ADS-B to be able to
> receive it, but with the $2,500 transceiver from NavWorx, you get both.
>
> In summary, it was a breeze getting the NavWorx and Dynon boxes talking to
> eachother.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: NavWorx ADS-B on Dynon SkyView |
| From: | "Lenny Iszak" <lenard(at)rapiddecision.com> |
I just helped a friend connect a NavWorx Box to a pair of AFS 3500 units.
It works fine, using the TIS same protocol which is built into the AFS. The problem
with this is that it severely limits the number of targets to 8 and distance
to only 7 miles.
However, recently AFS started supporting the native ADSB format of the NavWorx
box, which includes weather(ADSB) and traffic out to a couple hundred miles. The
only issue is that it only works on the AFS units with an "s" processor.
Older units only support the TIS protocol for traffic and no ADSB weather.
Lenny
[quote="Kelly McMullen"]Thanks for the report Jesse. Embry Riddle there in FL is
supposed to have had ADS-B for a long time, and I imagine the rest of the state
probably has it by now. This makes considering the Skyview much stronger vs
GRT and AFS.
On Sat, Nov 27, 2010 at 7:17 PM, Jesse Saint wrote:
>
> I just wanted to post a quick description of my experience installing a NavWorx
ADS600-B Transceiver coupled to a Dynon SkyView system.
>
>
> I am in an area that is on the edge of the Orlando Mode-S coverage area. At
pattern altitude and usually down to a couple of hundred feet, I get traffic when
flying with a GTX-330 transponder. With the ADS-B I get traffic from below
100' and well beyond the Mode-S coverage area when flying. I don't know what
the current ADS-B coverage is, but I think it covers most of the east coast, including
all (or almost all) of Florida. I think the Miami stations require you
to be broadcasting ADS-B to be able to receive it, but with the $2,500 transceiver
from NavWorx, you get both.
>
> In summary, it was a breeze getting the NavWorx and Dynon boxes talking to eachother.
>
>
#avg_ls_inline_popup{position: absolute;z-index: 9999;padding: 0px 0px;margin-left:
0px;margin-top: 0px;overflow: hidden;word-wrap: break-word;color: black;font-size:
10px;text-align: left;line-height: 130%;}
> [b]
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=321268#321268
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Kuntzleman tail light mounting |
| From: | Rob Kochman <rv10rob(at)gmail.com> |
Hi, all... does anyone have any pictures or experience mounting the
Kuntzleman tail position/strobe combo? It appears to be too big for the
lower rudder fairing.
Thanks...
-Rob
--
Rob Kochman
RV-10 "Finishing" Kit
Woodinville, WA (near Seattle)
http://kochman.net/N819K
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Just Three Days Left & Some Very Nice Comments... |
Dear Listers,
There are just three days left in this year's List Fund Raiser. Won't you take
a monment and make a quick Contribution today to support the continued upgrade
and operation of these Forum services.
I've received some more really nice comments from Listers along with their List
Support Contributions, and I've share a few below.
There are some sweet gifts available this year, so browse the selections and pickup
a nice item along with your qualifying Contribution.
Contribution Web Site:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Or drop a personal check in the mail to:
Matt Dralle / Matronics
581 Jeannie Way
Livermore CA 94550
USA
Thank you in advance for your generous support! It is very much appreciated!
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
-------------------------------------------------------
Great resource, keep it coming...
Marten V.
Thanks for maintaining these essential lists!
Rumen D.
Great Service!
Douglas D.
Thanks for this great service!
Peter T.
Thanks for your enduring support of homebuilding communications!
Daniel M.
You do a great job and provide a valuable service.
Mark B.
It's really a great source I have used a lot.
Robert K.
Reading the RV-10 list is part of my morning routine...
Perry C.
Great job running these lists.
Edward T.
Thanks for doing a tough job.
Mic T.
Your List was such a great resource for me when I built in "98".
Ron V.
Its a very useful forum.
Dave F.
Really enjoy your list...
William D.
Great service,
Gerald T.
The list still is a valuable source of information and there
are many worthwhile postings.
Graham H.
The list has seen me through an RV-9A, RV-10, and now an RV-12.
Albert G.
Thanks for a great resource!
Barry H.
Thank you for maintaining this excellent site.
Bill W.
The Matronics Email list are an invaluable service.
William C.
I appreciate the RV-10 list.
Vijay P.
Thanks for a great list and all of the work you do.
Ian W.
Thanks for keeping up this very useful list.
George R.
The list is excellent and I find it very handy for any problems
I come up against during construction.
Greg W.
The lists are an important part of my day. I've met lots of people
and made lots of friends.
Dave S.
It's really a great source I haved used a lot.
Robert K.
I read the Pietenpol List everyday.
PF B.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: NavWorx ADS-B on Dynon SkyView |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
I would assume that those units could be upgraded to current processor with
liberal application of $$$$. Otherwise it would seem a waste to not be able
to get the weather.
On Sat, Nov 27, 2010 at 11:07 PM, Lenny Iszak wrote:
>
> I just helped a friend connect a NavWorx Box to a pair of AFS 3500 units.
> The only issue is that it only works on the AFS units with an "s"
> processor.
> Older units only support the TIS protocol for traffic and no ADSB weather.
>
> Lenny
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DLM" <dlm34077(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: NavWorx ADS-B on Dynon SkyView |
Freeflight systems will be selling a UAT transceiver in 2Q11 for
slightly more money. This is the experimental version of their TSOed
unit. Street price is rumored to be about $3100. It is the RANGR E
series.
----- Original Message -----
From: Kelly McMullen
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, November 28, 2010 5:22 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: NavWorx ADS-B on Dynon SkyView
I would assume that those units could be upgraded to current processor
with liberal application of $$$$. Otherwise it would seem a waste to not
be able to get the weather.
On Sat, Nov 27, 2010 at 11:07 PM, Lenny Iszak
wrote:
I just helped a friend connect a NavWorx Box to a pair of AFS 3500
units.
The only issue is that it only works on the AFS units with an "s"
processor.
Older units only support the TIS protocol for traffic and no ADSB
weather.
Lenny
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: NavWorx ADS-B on Dynon SkyView |
| From: | "Lenny Iszak" <lenard(at)rapiddecision.com> |
Yeah, they can be upgraded. Not having weather is not that big of a deal. AFS displays
XM weather even with the older processor.
Lenny
[quote="Kelly McMullen"]I would assume that those units could be upgraded to current
processor with liberal application of $$$$. Otherwise it would seem a waste
to not be able to get the weather.
--------
Lenny
#40803
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=321367#321367
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: NavWorx ADS-B on Dynon SkyView |
@ $55/mo XM weather consumes a lot of avgas budget. Debate begins as to
how long XM will find it worthwhile to offer the service. The other
question will be how much longer the FAA will require Mode C transponder
if you have UAT. Obviously a non-issue with mode S, but Mode S with
ADS-B In will be significantly more money than UAT In and Out. Only
advantage to Mode S is ability to go above 18,000 legally.
On 11/28/2010 6:42 AM, Lenny Iszak wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Lenny Iszak"
>
> Yeah, they can be upgraded. Not having weather is not that big of a deal. AFS
displays XM weather even with the older processor.
>
> Lenny
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robin Marks <Robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com> |
| Subject: | Re: NavWorx ADS-B on Dynon SkyView |
RV10-List: Re: NavWorx ADS-B on Dynon SkyView
Isn=92t part of the issue that the ADS-B WX is free and the XM WX is betwee
n
$30-$50/month? The $30/month does not provide some basics like Winds Aloft.
I get confused because NavWorx lists the displays it works with which do no
t
include the G3X but does include the Garmin 696. However the 696 says TIS-A
only. I will be getting TIS from my G330 right?
UGH=85
Robin
*From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:
owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Lenny Iszak
*Sent:* Sunday, November 28, 2010 5:42 AM
*To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
*Subject:* RV10-List: Re: NavWorx ADS-B on Dynon SkyView
Yeah, they can be upgraded. Not having weather is not that big of a deal.
AFS displays XM weather even with the older processor.
Lenny
[quote="Kelly McMullen"]I would assume that those units could be upgraded
to
current processor with liberal application of $$$$. Otherwise it would seem
a waste to not be able to get the weather.
--------
Lenny
#40803
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=321367#321367
------------------------------
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: NavWorx ADS-B on Dynon SkyView |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
As I understand it UAT receives the full package of TIS and FIS (traffic and
weather) on something like 780mHz. 1090ES is an extended version of Mode S
that only receives TISA from ATC facilities that broadcast TIS, and maybe
from other aircraft like airliners that already use 1090. The 1090 band
supports both Mode C transponders and Mode S and therefore is bandwidth
limited and can't handle the extra weather data. The airlines lobbied for
and got a restriction requiring 1090 for flight at and above FL180. So there
is no one solution that does all ADS-B that is allowed in all airspace.
On Sat, Nov 27, 2010 at 7:17 PM, Jesse Saint wrote:
>
> I just wanted to post a quick description of my experience installing a
> NavWorx ADS600-B Transceiver coupled to a Dynon SkyView system.
>
>
> Bill at NavWorx is fairly good to deal with. I don't fully understand the
> difference between 1090 and UAT (those may not even be the two systems, or
> they may be the same). I think Bill said that the UAT system that the
> NavWorx system works on is better than 1090. Anyway, there didn't seem to
> be any other options that were reasonably prices, so NavWorx it is.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <jfrjr(at)roadrunner.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Interior door handle mechanism |
Geoff: Put me on the list for the new handles when they are ready. Jay Rowe #40301
jfrjr(at)roadrunner.com
---- "g.combs" wrote:
> Myron these will be available very soon from Aerosport Products. They are a
> 30 minute install to any stock RV-10 door handle. They will come with gear
> box cover as seen
> in the photo.
>
> Geoff
> www.aerosportproducts.com
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "woxofswa" <woxof(at)aol.com>
> To:
> Sent: Saturday, November 27, 2010 3:29 PM
> Subject: RV10-List: Interior door handle mechanism
>
>
> >
> > Anybody know of aftermarket interior door handles that don't look like
> > they belong on a soap box derby car?
> >
> > Thanks in advance.
> >
> > --------
> > Myron Nelson
> > Mesa, AZ
> > Emp completed, QB wings completed, legacy build fuse in mostly done,
> > finishing kit in progress.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Read this topic online here:
> >
> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=321222#321222
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Off Topic--FAA Rulemaking |
| From: | "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> |
Dave - thanks for letting us know about this - I sent the following to the FAA.
I object to the actively engaged provisions of this clarifying definition. While
I fly an experimental aircraft and do my own inspections, I formerly owned a
certified aircraft and may again in the future. This proposal (if implemented)
would make it more difficult and expensive to obtain an IA sign-off on an annual
inspection. Many retired or semi-retired IA's can do a very competent job
of "annualing" a certified aircraft. To summarily kick these people out of the
aviation community by pulling their authorization would be doing aviation a
great disservice. I see no safety benefit in this proposal.
--------
See you OSH '11
Q/B - flying 1 yr+
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=321401#321401
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: NavWorx ADS-B on Dynon SkyView |
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)myrv10.com> |
A couple of points:
The UAT frequency is 978mhz.
If you DO decide to go 1090ES, it requires a capable transponder.....today t
hat would mean you probably don't want to buy a gtx327 because it's the gtx3
30 you would be able to upgrade...at a price of about $1200 I think. This w
ould give you OUT but not IN, so you still would only get Mode S traffic in l
imited coverage areas. Also no WX.
While sometimes people make 1090ES sound like a better choice citing the hig
h altitude requirement for 1090ES, I personally have found that ops over 18,
000' in the RV10 aren't a very practical thing....likely you'll never bother
to go that high...ever. Yes, people have, like Jesse, and cruising at 17k w
orks well for him, but that isn't >18k'. You will find the RV10 so performa
nce limited above 18 that you won't go there....or if you did, you'd probabl
y want to be solo or 2 people-no-baggage. So the altitude limitations on UA
T use fit nicely with the RV10's useful profile.
The WX is provided by the same source as WSI. XM and WSI both offer package
s with more services than FIS-B with better continental coverage than FIS-B w
ill ever offer. So, FIS-B is great for those who don't care or use it enoug
h or want to spend the money on a premium satellite service that gives much b
etter in-flight performance. Normally I would think that since WSI's servic
e provides the FIS-B weather for the ADS-B program, that WSI would be the mo
re "stable" company, but XM has such a huge market share that both seem to b
e able to stick around just fine. I doubt XM is going anywhere.
One more thing... If you go 1090, best to wait or go with a non-garmin trans
ponder that offers in/out with the transponder. The upgraded 330 with 1090E
S only does out. So, no traffic services for you. With the UAT you get bas
ically all transponder equipped traffic if you're in ground coverage. If no
t, you still get air-to-air coverage even if not in ground station coverage.
Make sure to go with the transformer not receiver only, if you want it to w
ork great for you with the way the system is being run today.
So really, the UAT type ADS-B is a near perfect fit for the RV-10. 1090ES o
ffers us much less. Even TCAS offers less as a whole. (it's better traffic c
overage without any weather capabilities.) The near ideal for us is like Se
an is planning...a TCAS+ADS-B mixed type system...but you have to pony up fo
r it.
Tim
On Nov 28, 2010, at 9:46 AM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
> As I understand it UAT receives the full package of TIS and FIS (traffic a
nd weather) on something like 780mHz. 1090ES is an extended version of Mode S
that only receives TISA from ATC facilities that broadcast TIS, and maybe f
rom other aircraft like airliners that already use 1090. The 1090 band suppo
rts both Mode C transponders and Mode S and therefore is bandwidth limited a
nd can't handle the extra weather data. The airlines lobbied for and got a r
estriction requiring 1090 for flight at and above FL180. So there is no one s
olution that does all ADS-B that is allowed in all airspace.
>
> On Sat, Nov 27, 2010 at 7:17 PM, Jesse Saint wro
te:
>
> I just wanted to post a quick description of my experience installing a Na
vWorx ADS600-B Transceiver coupled to a Dynon SkyView system.
>
>
> Bill at NavWorx is fairly good to deal with. I don't fully understand the
difference between 1090 and UAT (those may not even be the two systems, or t
hey may be the same). I think Bill said that the UAT system that the NavWor
x system works on is better than 1090. Anyway, there didn't seem to be any o
ther options that were reasonably prices, so NavWorx it is.
>
>
>
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: NavWorx ADS-B on Dynon SkyView |
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
I think the G3X is too new for it to be tested and known. Likely it'll do t
raffic just like the 696. The WX would be much harder, since to do that, th
ey'd have to emulate XM as a split separate feed....not sure if they'll go d
own that path. For systems that support a combined ADS-B interface where yo
u get both on the same feed, maybe someday they'll integrate...but if you go
Garmin on EFIS/panel as a base, you're likely to be stuck at least for a lo
ng while, with Garmin only for accessories of this type. The gorilla doesn'
t play well with all the other monkey species.
Tim
On Nov 28, 2010, at 9:25 AM, Robin Marks wrote:
> Isn=99t part of the issue that the ADS-B WX is free and the XM WX is
between $30-$50/month? The $30/month does not provide some basics like Wind
s Aloft.
>
> I get confused because NavWorx lists the displays it works with which do n
ot include the G3X but does include the Garmin 696. However the 696 says TIS
-A only. I will be getting TIS from my G330 right?
>
> UGH
>
>
>
> Robin
>
>
>
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@
matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lenny Iszak
> Sent: Sunday, November 28, 2010 5:42 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: NavWorx ADS-B on Dynon SkyView
>
>
>
>
> Yeah, they can be upgraded. Not having weather is not that big of a deal. A
FS displays XM weather even with the older processor.
>
> Lenny
>
>
> [quote="Kelly McMullen"]I would assume that those units could be upgrade
d to current processor with liberal application of $$$$. Otherwise it would s
eem a waste to not be able to get the weather.
>
> --------
> Lenny
> #40803
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=321367#321367
>
> .aeroelectric.com">www.aeroelectric.com
> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
> iption,
> //www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigato
r?RV10-List
> ttp://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
> =============
>
>
>
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 10.0.1170 /
>
>
>
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Off Topic--FAA Rulemaking |
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
Short and sweet and to the point. I'll copy what you said and sent in the same.
Tim
On Nov 28, 2010, at 11:20 AM, "AirMike" wrote:
>
> Dave - thanks for letting us know about this - I sent the following to the FAA.
>
> I object to the actively engaged provisions of this clarifying definition. While
I fly an experimental aircraft and do my own inspections, I formerly owned
a certified aircraft and may again in the future. This proposal (if implemented)
would make it more difficult and expensive to obtain an IA sign-off on an
annual inspection. Many retired or semi-retired IA's can do a very competent job
of "annualing" a certified aircraft. To summarily kick these people out of
the aviation community by pulling their authorization would be doing aviation
a great disservice. I see no safety benefit in this proposal.
>
> --------
> See you OSH '11
> Q/B - flying 1 yr+
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=321401#321401
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DLM" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Off Topic--FAA Rulemaking |
BTW if you want to object to something ; object to the 99 year comment
period assigned to the eliminaton of the 3rd class medical.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Olson" <Tim(at)myrv10.com>
Sent: Sunday, November 28, 2010 10:43 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Off Topic--FAA Rulemaking
>
> Short and sweet and to the point. I'll copy what you said and sent in the
> same.
> Tim
>
>
> On Nov 28, 2010, at 11:20 AM, "AirMike" wrote:
>
>>
>> Dave - thanks for letting us know about this - I sent the following to
>> the FAA.
>>
>> I object to the actively engaged provisions of this clarifying
>> definition. While I fly an experimental aircraft and do my own
>> inspections, I formerly owned a certified aircraft and may again in the
>> future. This proposal (if implemented) would make it more difficult and
>> expensive to obtain an IA sign-off on an annual inspection. Many retired
>> or semi-retired IA's can do a very competent job of "annualing" a
>> certified aircraft. To summarily kick these people out of the aviation
>> community by pulling their authorization would be doing aviation a great
>> disservice. I see no safety benefit in this proposal.
>>
>> --------
>> See you OSH '11
>> Q/B - flying 1 yr+
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=321401#321401
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: NavWorx ADS-B on Dynon SkyView |
Thanks for the frequency correction Tim. Memory isn't what it used to
be. :-(
Note that a GNX330 is something like $3300 to start with, and the
upgrade is on top of that, you you would be out almost $2K more than the
NavWorx UAT transceiver. If you want really big bucks there is the
Garmin UAT, the GDL 90, which AFAIK there have been no announcements
whether it will be upgradeable to comply with the final rule. If you
were to buy a 1090ES of any brand, you would still need a UAT receiver
to get weather, as 1090 doesn't have the bandwidth available to carry it
ontop of existing transponder traffic. Or stick with XM weather and keep
paying the fee.
On 11/28/2010 10:33 AM, Tim Olson wrote:
> A couple of points:
> The UAT frequency is 978mhz.
> If you DO decide to go 1090ES, it requires a capable
> transponder.....today that would mean you probably don't want to buy a
> gtx327 because it's the gtx330 you would be able to upgrade...at a
> price of about $1200 I think. This would give you OUT but not IN, so
> you still would only get Mode S traffic in limited coverage areas.
> Also no WX.
>
> **
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DLM" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: NavWorx ADS-B on Dynon SkyView |
check http://freeflightsystems.com/docs/FreeFlight_RANGR_ADS-B.pdf
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kelly McMullen" <kellym(at)aviating.com>
Sent: Sunday, November 28, 2010 2:50 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: NavWorx ADS-B on Dynon SkyView
>
> Thanks for the frequency correction Tim. Memory isn't what it used to
> be. :-(
> Note that a GNX330 is something like $3300 to start with, and the
> upgrade is on top of that, you you would be out almost $2K more than the
> NavWorx UAT transceiver. If you want really big bucks there is the
> Garmin UAT, the GDL 90, which AFAIK there have been no announcements
> whether it will be upgradeable to comply with the final rule. If you
> were to buy a 1090ES of any brand, you would still need a UAT receiver
> to get weather, as 1090 doesn't have the bandwidth available to carry it
> ontop of existing transponder traffic. Or stick with XM weather and keep
> paying the fee.
>
>
> On 11/28/2010 10:33 AM, Tim Olson wrote:
>> A couple of points:
>> The UAT frequency is 978mhz.
>> If you DO decide to go 1090ES, it requires a capable
>> transponder.....today that would mean you probably don't want to buy a
>> gtx327 because it's the gtx330 you would be able to upgrade...at a
>> price of about $1200 I think. This would give you OUT but not IN, so
>> you still would only get Mode S traffic in limited coverage areas.
>> Also no WX.
>>
>> **
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | tach drive cover |
| From: | pilotdds <pilotdds(at)aol.com> |
Anybody know where to find a cover for the tach drive on the lycoming engin
es.Also how about 5/8 or 3/4
blast tubes that can be riveted to the engine baffling-thanks
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: NavWorx ADS-B on Dynon SkyView |
| From: | Seano <sean(at)braunandco.com> |
My gts800 has the in portion and the gtx330 (es) is the out. If I recall the gtx330
was around 4200$
Sent from my iPhone
On Nov 28, 2010, at 14:50, Kelly McMullen wrote:
>
> Thanks for the frequency correction Tim. Memory isn't what it used to be. :-(
> Note that a GNX330 is something like $3300 to start with, and the upgrade is
on top of that, you you would be out almost $2K more than the NavWorx UAT transceiver.
If you want really big bucks there is the Garmin UAT, the GDL 90, which
AFAIK there have been no announcements whether it will be upgradeable to comply
with the final rule. If you were to buy a 1090ES of any brand, you would
still need a UAT receiver to get weather, as 1090 doesn't have the bandwidth available
to carry it ontop of existing transponder traffic. Or stick with XM weather
and keep paying the fee.
>
>
> On 11/28/2010 10:33 AM, Tim Olson wrote:
>> A couple of points:
>> The UAT frequency is 978mhz.
>> If you DO decide to go 1090ES, it requires a capable transponder.....today that
would mean you probably don't want to buy a gtx327 because it's the gtx330
you would be able to upgrade...at a price of about $1200 I think. This would
give you OUT but not IN, so you still would only get Mode S traffic in limited
coverage areas. Also no WX.
>>
>> **
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: tach drive cover |
| From: | Michael Kraus <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net> |
http://www.averytools.com/prodinfo.asp?number=6346
Sent from my iPhone
On Nov 28, 2010, at 8:19 PM, pilotdds wrote:
> Anybody know where to find a cover for the tach drive on the lycoming engi
nes.Also how about 5/8 or 3/4
> blast tubes that can be riveted to the engine baffling-thanks
>
>
>
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: tach drive cover |
| From: | "Ron B." <cfxoa(at)klis.com> |
Aircraft Spruce, P/N 10-06754. As for blast tube flanges, I machined my own out
of alum. stock. If you are not capable, any shop with a lathe should should do.
Ron
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=321459#321459
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: tach drive cover |
| From: | Seano <sean(at)braunandco.com> |
Andair sells one on aircraft spruce. Expensive though.
Sent from my iPhone
On Nov 28, 2010, at 18:19, pilotdds wrote:
> Anybody know where to find a cover for the tach drive on the lycoming engi
nes.Also how about 5/8 or 3/4
> blast tubes that can be riveted to the engine baffling-thanks
>
>
>
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Transition Training LODA |
| From: | "Ron B." <cfxoa(at)klis.com> |
We did our transition training last June with Joe. All three of us were very pleased
with his abilities. Five stars with us, thanks Joe and happy holidays.
Ron
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=321462#321462
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: NavWorx ADS-B on Dynon SkyView |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
That looks very attractive, and the experimental version is very
competitively priced at $2495.
On Sun, Nov 28, 2010 at 6:17 PM, DLM wrote:
>
> check http://freeflightsystems.com/docs/FreeFlight_RANGR_ADS-B.pdf
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Kelly McMullen" <kellym(at)aviating.com>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: NavWorx ADS-B on Dynon SkyView |
Wouldn't you want the GPS equipped version though, for $3495?
I don't know the capabilities of that unit, but I do know that
for most systems you'll either need to have one with internal
GPS or you'll need to send it GPS from a panel-mount
GNS430W/480/530W. Again, I don't have the details, but I'd
think if you had the right panel hardware, you could go with
the $2495 version, but the $3495 would probably work stand-alone.
I know very little about their product to date. The NavWorx
ADS600B though has an internal GPS, priced in the neighborhood
of the one without GPS from Freeflight.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
On 11/28/2010 8:12 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
>
> That looks very attractive, and the experimental version is very
> competitively priced at $2495.
>
> On Sun, Nov 28, 2010 at 6:17 PM, DLM > wrote:
>
> >
>
> check http://freeflightsystems.com/docs/FreeFlight_RANGR_ADS-B.pdf
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Kelly McMullen"
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: NavWorx ADS-B on Dynon SkyView |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
I'd rather do a little extra wiring to connect it to a 430/530/480. I
expect to have a VFR backup with EFIS, and 2 GPS antennas are enough. But
then again, might be easier to do the tail cone install with GPS ant on top
and transponder on bottom.
On Sun, Nov 28, 2010 at 7:36 PM, Tim Olson wrote:
>
>
> Wouldn't you want the GPS equipped version though, for $3495?
> I don't know the capabilities of that unit, but I do know that
> for most systems you'll either need to have one with internal
> GPS or you'll need to send it GPS from a panel-mount
> GNS430W/480/530W. Again, I don't have the details, but I'd
> think if you had the right panel hardware, you could go with
> the $2495 version, but the $3495 would probably work stand-alone.
> I know very little about their product to date. The NavWorx
> ADS600B though has an internal GPS, priced in the neighborhood
> of the one without GPS from Freeflight.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Thottle cable length |
I spent most of the day hooking up my control cables on the engine.
I was very surprised that the cables Vans provided with the kit were so tig
ht and left little extra length to work with. I had installed eye ball pass
throughs on my firewall in the same location as the stock SBs=2C But I had
to drill out the aluminum cores so that the cables would fit through corre
ctly. Unfortunely=2C I hadn't drilled the holes large enough and once the f
ittings where screwed down the cables were tight in the core. Hense=2C I ne
eded to undo the eye balls so I could pull the cables tighter giving more r
oom in the cable in the engine compartment. Even with that=2C I have no wig
gle room.
I was also very careful to keep the location of the cable handles in the sa
me location as the stock part even though I fabicated a different subpanel
which holds all the control handles.
My mixture cable works through its full range of motion=2C but my throttle
cable seems short by 1/4-3/8" even though the cable bracket on the throttle
body is midway up the throttle cable threaded base.
Did other builders need to adjust double articulated arm on the throttle bo
dy so that the cable will make the throttle go to both stops- full open and
full closed?
Thanks=2C
JOhn G #409
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pascal" <rv10builder(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: tach drive cover |
Mine was provided by America's Engine when I asked the question.
I used the tubes at HD that can be located in the plumbing department0
basic irrigation tubes. Same thing I used for the wiring too.
Pascal
From: pilotdds
Sent: Sunday, November 28, 2010 5:19 PM
Subject: RV10-List: tach drive cover
Anybody know where to find a cover for the tach drive on the lycoming
engines.Also how about 5/8 or 3/4
blast tubes that can be riveted to the engine baffling-thanks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Thottle cable length |
John, is this what you're speaking of?
http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/finishing/20051228/index.html
See down the page on throttle cable.
Tim
On Nov 28, 2010, at 9:03 PM, John Gonzalez wrote:
> I spent most of the day hooking up my control cables on the engine.
>
> I was very surprised that the cables Vans provided with the kit were so ti
ght and left little extra length to work with. I had installed eye ball pass
throughs on my firewall in the same location as the stock SBs, But I had to
drill out the aluminum cores so that the cables would fit through correctly
. Unfortunely, I hadn't drilled the holes large enough and once the fittings
where screwed down the cables were tight in the core. Hense, I needed to un
do the eye balls so I could pull the cables tighter giving more room in the c
able in the engine compartment. Even with that, I have no wiggle room.
>
> I was also very careful to keep the location of the cable handles in the s
ame location as the stock part even though I fabicated a different subpanel w
hich holds all the control handles.
>
> My mixture cable works through its full range of motion, but my throttle c
able seems short by 1/4-3/8" even though the cable bracket on the throttle b
ody is midway up the throttle cable threaded base.
>
> Did other builders need to adjust double articulated arm on the throttle b
ody so that the cable will make the throttle go to both stops- full open and
full closed?
>
> Thanks,
>
> JOhn G #409
>
>
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Thottle cable length |
This what I am referring to=2C but you added a quadrant which must have mad
e the length requirement change. I kept everything nearly the same and ran
out of cable length.
I believe I will be able to fix this by adjusting the position of the servo
arm as it can imcrementally articulate with the arm which hits the stops.
Just trying the figure why I ran out of length and whether others have had
the problem.
Thank you for directing me to the exact location on your site.
John
From: Tim(at)myrv10.com
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Thottle cable length
Date: Sun=2C 28 Nov 2010 22:30:05 -0600
John=2C is this what you're speaking of?
http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/finishing/20051228/index.html
See down the page on throttle cable.
Tim
On Nov 28=2C 2010=2C at 9:03 PM=2C John Gonzalez w
rote:
I spent most of the day hooking up my control cables on the engine.
I was very surprised that the cables Vans provided with the kit were so tig
ht and left little extra length to work with. I had installed eye ball pass
throughs on my firewall in the same location as the stock SBs=2C But I had
to drill out the aluminum cores so that the cables would fit through corre
ctly. Unfortunely=2C I hadn't drilled the holes large enough and once the f
ittings where screwed down the cables were tight in the core. Hense=2C I ne
eded to undo the eye balls so I could pull the cables tighter giving more r
oom in the cable in the engine compartment. Even with that=2C I have no wig
gle room.
I was also very careful to keep the location of the cable handles in the sa
me location as the stock part even though I fabicated a different subpanel
which holds all the control handles.
My mixture cable works through its full range of motion=2C but my throttle
cable seems short by 1/4-3/8" even though the cable bracket on the throttle
body is midway up the throttle cable threaded base.
Did other builders need to adjust double articulated arm on the throttle bo
dy so that the cable will make the throttle go to both stops- full open and
full closed?
Thanks=2C
JOhn G #409
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Make Sure You're Listed! |
Dear Listers,
The List of Contributors (LOC) is just around the corner with just two more days
in this year's Fund Raiser! Later in December I will post a list of everyone
that so generously made a Contribution to support the Lists this year. Its
my way of publicly thanking everyone that took a minute to show their appreciation
for the Lists.
Won't you take minute and assure that your name is on the upcoming LOC? Tell others
that you appreciate the Lists.
Making a Contribution to support the Lists is fast and easy using your Visa, MasterCard,
or Paypal account:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Or, by dropping a personal check in the mail to:
Matt Dralle / Matronics
581 Jeannie Way
Livermore CA 94550
I would like to thank everyone that has so generously made a Contribution thus
far during this year's List Fund Raiser! Remember that its YOUR support that
keeps these Lists running and improving!
Thank you!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Thottle cable length |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
I suspect this is one of those issues that most everyone has heard about,
but Van's chooses not to address. Kind of like the nose wheel/fork issues.
On Sun, Nov 28, 2010 at 10:12 PM, John Gonzalez wrote:
> This what I am referring to, but you added a quadrant which must have made
> the length requirement change. I kept everything nearly the same and ran out
> of cable length.
>
> I believe I will be able to fix this by adjusting the position of the servo
> arm as it can incrementally articulate with the arm which hits the stops.
>
> Just trying the figure why I ran out of length and whether others have had
> the problem.
>
> Thank you for directing me to the exact location on your site.
>
> John
>
> ------------------------------
> From: Tim(at)myrv10.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Thottle cable length
> Date: Sun, 28 Nov 2010 22:30:05 -0600
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>
>
> John, is this what you're speaking of?
> http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/finishing/20051228/index.html
>
> See down the page on throttle cable.
> Tim
>
>
> On Nov 28, 2010, at 9:03 PM, John Gonzalez wrote:
>
> I spent most of the day hooking up my control cables on the engine.
>
> I was very surprised that the cables Vans provided with the kit were
> so tight and left little extra length to work with. I had installed eye ball
> pass throughs on my firewall in the same location as the stock SBs, But I
> had to drill out the aluminum cores so that the cables would fit through
> correctly. Unfortunely, I hadn't drilled the holes large enough and once the
> fittings where screwed down the cables were tight in the core. Hense, I
> needed to undo the eye balls so I could pull the cables tighter giving more
> room in the cable in the engine compartment. Even with that, I have no
> wiggle room.
>
> I was also very careful to keep the location of the cable handles in the
> same location as the stock part even though I fabicated a different subpanel
> which holds all the control handles.
>
> My mixture cable works through its full range of motion, but my throttle
> cable seems short by 1/4-3/8" even though the cable bracket on the throttle
> body is midway up the throttle cable threaded base.
>
> Did other builders need to adjust double articulated arm on the throttle
> body so that the cable will make the throttle go to both stops- full open
> and full closed?
>
> Thanks,
>
> JOhn G #409
>
> *
> *
>
> *
>
>
> 3D=======================================
> 3D====
> com
>
>
> 3D=======================================
> 3D====
> 10-List
>
> 3D=======================================
> 3D====
> 3D=============================================*
>
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Thottle cable length |
| From: | "jkreidler" <jason.kreidler(at)regalbeloit.com> |
We had to order a longer cable. I think we used the RV-7 throttle cable, I assume
Van's has not changed the lengths of either the 10 or the 7 cable in the past
few years.
--------
Jason Kreidler
4 Partner Build - Sheboygan Falls, WI
Tony Kolar, Kyle Hokel, Wayne Elser, Jason Kreidler
N44YH - Flying - #40617
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=321568#321568
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | FS Fine Wire Spark Plugs |
| From: | "dmaib(at)me.com" <dmaib(at)me.com> |
I have six Auburn HSR-83P fine wire spark plugs for sale. All are new, never installed
or used. One tube has been opened to inspect the plug and the other five
tubes are still sealed from the factory.
$40 each plus shipping. If you want all six, I will pay shipping anywhere in the
US.
--------
David Maib
RV-10 #40559
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=321579#321579
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Thottle cable length |
| From: | "jkreidler" <jason.kreidler(at)regalbeloit.com> |
The difference is the jacket of the cable. If the jacket is too short, or even
marginal then you are forced to run the anchor nuts all the way to the end of
the jacket. This sets in stone where the end of the cable will ultimately end
up. In our case we might have been able to get the servo arms adjusted just
far enough to work, but the intersecting angle between the cable and the arm
would have been nearly 180 degrees or straight on. This does two things, first
it creates the unlikely potential that the cable and arm may go over center
and not function, secondly it makes the throttle harder to push for the first
part of the travel. Of course even with a longer cable and the anchor nuts all
the way at the end of the jacket you would have the same problem (Tim, to your
point). By using a longer cable we were able to set anchor nuts away from
the end of the jacket allowing the intersecting angle to be approximately 45 degrees
at idle and wide open making the throttle pressure required at any point
feel the same.
This topic has circulated in the past, I think the lengths Van's supplies for the
quadrant are OK PER Tims and others feedback, but others beyond us have had
to get longer cables for the standard setup.
--------
Jason Kreidler
4 Partner Build - Sheboygan Falls, WI
Tony Kolar, Kyle Hokel, Wayne Elser, Jason Kreidler
N44YH - Flying - #40617
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=321582#321582
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: tach drive cover |
| From: | Richard Martin <martinaerodrome(at)gmail.com> |
The covers are available from Klaus Savior @ Lightspeed engineering in
Califorinia, telephone 805 933 3299. He makes the best electronic ignition
systems. I have dual lightspeeds on my RV8. 2000 plus hours and no
problems. I live in wisconsin and find that cold starts zero and lower are
a no problems. The engine starts like your car. NO PREHEATING ETC.
Dick Martin
RV8 N233M
the fast one
On Sun, Nov 28, 2010 at 7:19 PM, pilotdds wrote:
> Anybody know where to find a cover for the tach drive on the lycoming
> engines.Also how about 5/8 or 3/4
> blast tubes that can be riveted to the engine baffling-thanks
>
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: NavWorx ADS-B on Dynon SkyView |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
Tim, are you able to get weather on your NavWorx box now? Most areas with
ADS-B or just a few?
On Sun, Nov 28, 2010 at 10:41 AM, Tim Olson wrote:
> I think the G3X is too new for it to be tested and known. Likely it'll do
> traffic just like the 696. The WX would be much harder, since to do that,
> they'd have to emulate XM as a split separate feed....not sure if they'll go
> down that path. For systems that support a combined ADS-B interface where
> you get both on the same feed, maybe someday they'll integrate...but if you
> go Garmin on EFIS/panel as a base, you're likely to be stuck at least for a
> long while, with Garmin only for accessories of this type. The gorilla
> doesn't play well with all the other monkey species.
> Tim
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | throttle cable length |
So it appears that others have had the same issue.
As stated=2C if I change the servo arm angle to decrease the length of the
needed cable=2C I will run the risk of the angle between the cable and the
servo arm approaching 180 degrees and having the over center problem. I nee
d to get another cable. Do I send back the one Vans sent for credit or is t
hat a no go?
When orderring another cable of Cable(S) isn't it preferable to have a slig
ht bend in the cables so that they can be braced with cushion clamps? My cu
rrent throttle cable is so tight between the eyeball grommet and the thrott
le cable bracket that it is a straight line. I certainly can't change the c
able position and it rubs on the bottom of the oil pan.
Lastly=2C in reference to the mixture and the prop cables=2C they pass the
rear left corner of the oil pan=2C but appear as though because of their la
ck of play will be rubbing on that corner and they most likely will eventua
lly get between the bottom bar of the engine mount and the bottom of the oi
l pan. The actual seperation of the pan and the mount are about the width o
f the cable which concerns me that the cable will be worn down with engine
vibration.
Trying to figure out whether to order more than the throttle cable. Have ot
hers had wear issues with these cables between these parts?
Thanks
John
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Thottle cable length |
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
You're not alone, mine were too short (standard set up). I sent photos back and
forth to Vans, couldn't resolve the problem. In the end I used a different, more
direct routing, and have just enough slack (for engine vibration) to feel
okay about it. Yes, I did have to move the arms on the throttle body to get stop-to-stop
movement. But they're no where near 180 to the cable.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=321631#321631
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | [Please Read] - Last Official Day of List Fund Raiser! |
Dear Listers,
Its November 30th and that means at least two things. For better or worse, its
my 47th birthday! But it also means that its that last official day of the
Matronics Email List Fund Raiser! If you been drooling over one of the really
nice gifts that are available this year with a qualifying Contribution, then
now is the time to jump on one!!
If you've been meaning to make a Contribution this month but have been putting
it off for some reason, NOW is the time!
I will be posting the List of Contributors in a few days, so you'll probably want
to be known as a person that supported the Lists!
I want to thank everyone that has so generously made a Contribution this year in
support of our Lists. It is your generosity that keeps this operation running
and I don't ever forget it. Hopefully everyone feels the same.
The List Contribution Web Site is fast and easy. Please support our habit by making
your Contribution right now:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Or, by dropping a personal check in the mail to:
Matt Dralle / Matronics
581 Jeannie Way
Livermore CA 94550
Thank you to all in advance!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Billy & Tami Britton" <william(at)gbta.net> |
| Subject: | Dimpling stall warning holes |
I haven't tried dimpling the stall warning holes yet. They look like
they are in just the right place on the leading edge that it may do some
damage to the leading edge when dimpling them. I'm sure I'm probably
wrong about this but wanted to ask before I just jumped into it and
found out too late.
Anybody have any input on this subject? Am I worrying about something I
shouldn't be? How did you dimple them? I've got a DRDT-2, hand
dimplers, pop rivet dimplers (don't like using these--seems like they
never leave a deep enough dimple) etc...
Thanks,
Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DLM" <dlm34077(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Sparkplug replaements |
For those using the standard aviation plugs, Tempest is now manufacuring
them; they are called UREM38E and made by Tempest. They are about 2/3
rds of the price of a Champion plug.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Dimpling stall warning holes |
| From: | "tsts4" <tsts4(at)verizon.net> |
IIRC, I used my hand squeezer to dimple those holes and didn't have any issues
at all.
--------
Todd Stovall
728TT (reserved)
RV-10 Empacone, Wings, Fuse
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=321800#321800
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Billy & Tami Britton" <william(at)gbta.net> |
I think it's about time I get my wing cradle built. Anybody have any
simple plans for a wing cradle or pictures of what you've built? How
about a materials list?
Thanks,
Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "tsts4" <tsts4(at)verizon.net> |
I don't remember whose photos these are, but I built mine off just these 3 photos
and it works great.
--------
Todd Stovall
728TT (reserved)
RV-10 Empacone, Wings, Fuse
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=321811#321811
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/wingstand_011_687.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/wingstand_006_678.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/wingstand_104.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dawson-Townsend,Timothy" <tdawson-townsend(at)aurora.aero> |
After finishing my test period, I've actually still got SAE 50 mineral oil
in the plane, which is obviously more of a summer weight than winter (Massa
chusetts).
What are thoughts about leaving the SAE 50 in until the next oil change? I
was thinking that the crucial part for oil temperature and viscosity is at
start up, so as long as I am diligent about getting some pre-heat before s
tarting, the SAE 50 might be okay for the short term. (airplane is always
hangared, too)
TDT
Tim Dawson-Townsend
RV-10 N52KS (http://aprs.fi/?call=n52ks)
tdt(at)aurora.aero
617-500-4812 (office)
617-905-4800 (mobile)
smaller flight
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cumins" <jcumins(at)jcis.net> |
Tim
In Mass I would recommend you change and go to Mineral oil at 40 weight no
need to go to 30 weight it is not cold enough there.
We ran 40 weight in all our planes at the fbo I worked at In anchorage Ak.
Every winter and the average temp there was +5 f and only a week or 2
colder then that.
John G. Cumins
President
2499 B1 Martin Rd
Fairfield Ca 94534
707-425-7100
707-425-7576 Fax
Your Total Technology Solution Provider
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Dawson-Townsend,Timothy
Sent: Tuesday, November 30, 2010 10:24 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Winter oil?
After finishing my test period, I've actually still got SAE 50 mineral oil
in the plane, which is obviously more of a summer weight than winter
(Massachusetts).
What are thoughts about leaving the SAE 50 in until the next oil change? I
was thinking that the crucial part for oil temperature and viscosity is at
start up, so as long as I am diligent about getting some pre-heat before
starting, the SAE 50 might be okay for the short term. (airplane is always
hangared, too)
TDT
Tim Dawson-Townsend
RV-10 N52KS (http://aprs.fi/?call=n52ks)
tdt(at)aurora.aero
617-500-4812 (office)
617-905-4800 (mobile)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Alan Meklet Md <amekler(at)metrocast.net> |
Tim,
I changed to multigrade after 40 hrs.
Alan
Sent from my iPod
On Nov 30, 2010, at 1:23 PM, "Dawson-Townsend,Timothy" wrote:
> After finishing my test period, I=99ve actually still got SAE 50 min
eral oil in the plane, which is obviously more of a summer weight than winte
r (Massachusetts).
>
>
>
> What are thoughts about leaving the SAE 50 in until the next oil change? I
was thinking that the crucial part for oil temperature and viscosity is at s
tart up, so as long as I am diligent about getting some pre-heat before star
ting, the SAE 50 might be okay for the short term. (airplane is always han
gared, too)
>
>
>
> TDT
>
>
>
>
>
> Tim Dawson-Townsend
>
> RV-10 N52KS (http://aprs.fi/?call=n52ks)
>
> tdt(at)aurora.aero
>
> 617-500-4812 (office)
>
> 617-905-4800 (mobile)
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "tsts4" <tsts4(at)verizon.net> |
As a data point -- over on the red board, the guy who makes CamGuard states he
runs 20W50 Fall/Winter/Spring and W100 in the Summer. He's based in NJ.
Here's the link to the thread (note it's really about CamGuard but oil gets discussed
as well) in case you're curious:
http://forums.aopa.org/showthread.php?t=69147
--------
Todd Stovall
728TT (reserved)
RV-10 Empacone, Wings, Fuse
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=321821#321821
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
On 11/30/2010 12:25 PM, tsts4 wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "tsts4"
>
> I don't remember whose photos these are, but I built mine off just these 3 photos
and it works great.
>
>
I built the same ones and 4 years later have not complaints. I used
indoor/outdoor 'grass' type carpet for the slings. It looks like this
set used soft wheels of some sort. On concrete floor, soft should work
better than the steel, but I used what I had and they work fine too.
Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bobby J. Hughes" <bhughes(at)qnsi.net> |
This may give you some ideas. I was able to build both wings at the same
time and still allow my wife to park in our garage during the winter.
Bobby Hughes
40116
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Billy & Tami
Britton
Sent: Tuesday, November 30, 2010 10:45 AM
Subject: RV10-List: wing cradle
I think it's about time I get my wing cradle built. Anybody have any
simple plans for a wing cradle or pictures of what you've built? How
about a materials list?
Thanks,
Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
Better yet, go to Phillips 20W50, either type M if you feel mineral is
important, or regular X/C since you have more than 25 hours on the
engine. I didn't like grade 80/40W oil when flying in Fairbanks, Alaska,
too thin when ever it warmed up. When multigrade became available, it
solved that problem. Add some CamGuard for corrosion protection if you
aren't going to fly at least 10 hr/month.
On 11/30/2010 11:39 AM, John Cumins wrote:
>
> Tim
>
> In Mass I would recommend you change and go to Mineral oil at 40
> weight no need to go to 30 weight it is not cold enough there.
>
> We ran 40 weight in all our planes at the fbo I worked at In anchorage
> Ak. Every winter and the average temp there was +5 f and only a week
> or 2 colder then that.
>
> John G. Cumins
>
> President
>
> ISlogoLAsmall
>
> 2499 B1 Martin Rd
>
> Fairfield Ca 94534
>
> 707-425-7100
>
> 707-425-7576 Fax
>
> Your Total Technology Solution Provider
>
> *From:*owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of
> *Dawson-Townsend,Timothy
> *Sent:* Tuesday, November 30, 2010 10:24 AM
> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> *Subject:* RV10-List: Winter oil?
>
> After finishing my test period, Ive actually still got SAE 50 mineral
> oil in the plane, which is obviously more of a summer weight than
> winter (Massachusetts).
>
> What are thoughts about leaving the SAE 50 in until the next oil
> change? I was thinking that the crucial part for oil temperature and
> viscosity is at start up, so as long as I am diligent about getting
> some pre-heat before starting, the SAE 50 might be okay for the short
> term. (airplane is always hangared, too)
>
> TDT
>
> Tim Dawson-Townsend
>
> RV-10 N52KS (http://aprs.fi/?call=n52ks)
>
> tdt(at)aurora.aero
>
> 617-500-4812 (office)
>
> 617-905-4800 (mobile)
>
> smaller flight
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
Nice! You could paint on those too.
On 11/30/2010 2:50 PM, Bobby J. Hughes wrote:
> This may give you some ideas. I was able to build both wings at the
> same time and still allow my wife to park in our garage during the
> winter.
> Bobby Hughes
> 40116
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "n801bh(at)netzero.com" <n801bh(at)netzero.com> |
After finishing my test period, I=92ve actually still got SAE 50 minera
l
> oil in the plane, which is obviously more of a summer weight than
> winter (Massachusetts).
>
> What are thoughts about leaving the SAE 50 in until the next oil
> change? I was thinking that the crucial part for oil temperature and
> viscosity is at start up, so as long as I am diligent about getting
> some pre-heat before starting, the SAE 50 might be okay for the short
> term. (airplane is always hangared, too)
If you have electricity in the hangar I would leave the oil in till the
next change. Put one of these on the bottom of the sump. http://www.arc
heat.com/#
Ps. buy the one that's thermostatically controlled.
Thick oil is your friend if you warm the motor up correctly.
Ben.
Ben Haas
N801BH
www.haaspowerair.com
____________________________________________________________
$350,000 Life Insurance
Coverage as low as $13.04/month. Free, No Obligation Quotes.
http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL3241/4cf57982138a5533dd4st01vuc
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> |
I copied the same photos. It worked great, now to dismantle it.
John
--------
#40572 Painted and the wings are on.
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=321862#321862
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Schlatterer" <billschlatterer(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | tach drive cover |
Avery for Tach covers and this is what I did on the blast tubes. I think
it's a 1 inch hole, and then a 1 inch snap bushing which just happens to
have a groove that snaps into the grooves in 3/4 blast tubing. Perfect and
you can't pull it out!
Just one way?
Bill S
7a inspection next week
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of pilotdds
Sent: Sunday, November 28, 2010 7:19 PM
Subject: RV10-List: tach drive cover
Anybody know where to find a cover for the tach drive on the lycoming
engines.Also how about 5/8 or 3/4
blast tubes that can be riveted to the engine baffling-thanks
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: tach drive cover |
| From: | pilotdds <pilotdds(at)aol.com> |
Bill,
Thank you for the advice. That is the neatest job I have ever seen on the b
affling. Love how you sealed it with angle and bolts. I wish I hadn't alrea
dy placed 100 pop rivets per Van's plans. I would definitely copy you. I wi
ll use your advice on the snap bushings and again - my compliments on the n
eat baffling and seal.
Jim RV 10 728DD 300 hours # 2 under construction
-----Original Message-----
From: Bill Schlatterer <billschlatterer(at)sbcglobal.net>
Sent: Tue, Nov 30, 2010 6:28 pm
Subject: RE: RV10-List: tach drive cover
Avery for Tach covers and this is what I did on the blast tubes. I think i
t's a 1 inch hole, and then a 1 inch snap bushing which just happens to hav
e a groove that snaps into the grooves in 3/4 blast tubing. Perfect and yo
u can't pull it out!
Just one way?
Bill S
7a inspection next week
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of pilotdds
Sent: Sunday, November 28, 2010 7:19 PM
Subject: RV10-List: tach drive cover
Anybody know where to find a cover for the tach drive on the lycoming engin
es.Also how about 5/8 or 3/4
blast tubes that can be riveted to the engine baffling-thanks
href="http://www.aeroelectric.com">www.aeroelectric.com
ref="http://www.buildersbooks.com">www.buildersbooks.com
ref="http://www.homebuilthelp.com">www.homebuilthelp.com
ref="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/chre
f="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com
/Navigator?RV10-List
ref="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu> |
I just took mine apart. If you're near the SF Bay area (KLVK) you're welcome to
come by and take the lumber, wheels, carpet pieces, etc.
Bob
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=321878#321878
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cumins" <jcumins(at)jcis.net> |
Bob I am in Dixon Ca just down the road I might take you up on it. I am
starting my wings. Contact me off list ad will try and get together.
John G. Cumins
Starting wings
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Turner
Sent: Tuesday, November 30, 2010 7:55 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: wing cradle
I just took mine apart. If you're near the SF Bay area (KLVK) you're welcome
to come by and take the lumber, wheels, carpet pieces, etc.
Bob
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=321878#321878
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dawson-Townsend,Timothy" <tdawson-townsend(at)aurora.aero> |
| Subject: | Winter oil, revisited |
Checked with the local mechanic, and he said:
"You probably want that oil gone sooner rather than later. I agree though
that with good preheat and letting the oil get good and warm before flight
then you probably won't have any problems. Watch the oil temperature - if
the thick oil congeals in the oil cooler then the cooler becomes essentiall
y blocked - the oil temperature will go way up quickly since there is no oi
l cooling."
TDT
Tim Dawson-Townsend
RV-10 N52KS (http://aprs.fi/?call=n52ks)
tdt(at)aurora.aero
617-500-4812 (office)
617-905-4800 (mobile)
smaller flight
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Winter oil, revisited |
| From: | Alan Meklet Md <amekler(at)metrocast.net> |
I think you should get rid of the mineral oil. I switched over at 40 hours.
Regards,
Alan
Ps if you want to fly up to klci there is a good restaurant
Sent from my iPod
On Dec 1, 2010, at 10:07 AM, "Dawson-Townsend,Timothy" wrote:
> Checked with the local mechanic, and he said:
>
>
>
> =9CYou probably want that oil gone sooner rather than later. I agre
e though that with good preheat and letting the oil get good and warm before
flight then you probably won't have any problems. Watch the oil temperatur
e - if the thick oil congeals in the oil cooler then the cooler becomes esse
ntially blocked - the oil temperature will go way up quickly since there is n
o oil cooling.=9D
>
>
>
> TDT
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Tim Dawson-Townsend
>
> RV-10 N52KS (http://aprs.fi/?call=n52ks)
>
> tdt(at)aurora.aero
>
> 617-500-4812 (office)
>
> 617-905-4800 (mobile)
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Winter oil, revisited |
I know I was recommended to go 50 hours on mineral based oil.
I agree with Kelly, if you switch to Philips 20-50 X/C right
now, you would be well served....you get to stay on mineral
a while longer, maybe help your break-in, and get a fresh
oil change.
The other option is to get out there and FLY 10 more hours,
and get to 50....then do the oil change. If you go out and
play for a while, you can finish the break-in and use that
same oil.
Now, if you don't want to fly a lot, do like Kelly also said,
and put in some fresh oil that won't be loaded with corrosives,
and add some camguard. You don't want to leave it sit for
a long time either way, but especially if it has old oil.
The Camguard additive is actually proving to honestly
add corrosion resistance too, so go with that at least
in the months the plane doesn't fly a ton.
I used Philips x/c 20-50 for the first 100 hours before
switching to semi-synthetic (I use Exxon Elite, but
according to Aviation Consumer's testing, the best
value is Philips X/C + Camguard).
Tim
On 12/1/2010 9:31 AM, Alan Meklet Md wrote:
> I think you should get rid of the mineral oil. I switched over at 40 hours.
> Regards,
> Alan
> Ps if you want to fly up to klci there is a good restaurant
>
>
> Sent from my iPod
>
> On Dec 1, 2010, at 10:07 AM, "Dawson-Townsend,Timothy"
> > wrote:
>
>> Checked with the local mechanic, and he said:
>>
>> You probably want that oil gone sooner rather than later. I agree
>> though that with good preheat and letting the oil get good and warm
>> before flight then you probably won't have any problems. Watch the oil
>> temperature - if the thick oil congeals in the oil cooler then the
>> cooler becomes essentially blocked - the oil temperature will go way
>> up quickly since there is no oil cooling.
>>
>> TDT
>>
>> Tim Dawson-Townsend
>>
>> RV-10 N52KS (<http://aprs.fi/?call=n52ks>http://aprs.fi/?call=n52ks)
>>
>> tdt(at)aurora.aero
>>
>> 617-500-4812 (office)
>>
>> 617-905-4800 (mobile)
>>
>>
>>
> *
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Lower Wing Root Fairing (F-1099B) question |
| From: | "jchang10" <jc-matronics_rv10(at)jline.com> |
On page 44-6, the lower wing root fairing (F-1099B) is shown bent around the leading
edge.
My stock part came with no bend. Curious if it should have had a factory bend in
it or no?
Otherwise, I assume, we need to match the contour of the leading edge.
Thanks,
Jae
40533
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=321937#321937
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Lower Wing Root Fairing (F-1099B) question |
| From: | Michael Kraus <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net> |
No bend, you are correct.
Sent from my iPhone
On Dec 1, 2010, at 1:08 PM, "jchang10" wrote:
>
> On page 44-6, the lower wing root fairing (F-1099B) is shown bent around the
leading edge.
>
> My stock part came with no bend. Curious if it should have had a factory bend
in it or no?
>
> Otherwise, I assume, we need to match the contour of the leading edge.
>
> Thanks,
> Jae
> 40533
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=321937#321937
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pascal" <rv10builder(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Lower Wing Root Fairing (F-1099B) question |
assumption is correct, you custom fit the leading edge to your wing.
Pascal
--------------------------------------------------
From: "jchang10" <jc-matronics_rv10(at)jline.com>
Sent: Wednesday, December 01, 2010 10:08 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Lower Wing Root Fairing (F-1099B) question
>
> On page 44-6, the lower wing root fairing (F-1099B) is shown bent around
> the leading edge.
>
> My stock part came with no bend. Curious if it should have had a factory
> bend in it or no?
>
> Otherwise, I assume, we need to match the contour of the leading edge.
>
> Thanks,
> Jae
> 40533
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=321937#321937
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DLM" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Lower Wing Root Fairing (F-1099B) question |
You can also add an extra nutplate on the lower forward area on a stationary
piece there that does not call for a nutplate in the plans.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Pascal" <rv10builder(at)verizon.net>
Sent: Wednesday, December 01, 2010 11:33 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Lower Wing Root Fairing (F-1099B) question
>
> assumption is correct, you custom fit the leading edge to your wing.
> Pascal
>
> --------------------------------------------------
> From: "jchang10" <jc-matronics_rv10(at)jline.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, December 01, 2010 10:08 AM
> To:
> Subject: RV10-List: Lower Wing Root Fairing (F-1099B) question
>
>>
>> On page 44-6, the lower wing root fairing (F-1099B) is shown bent around
>> the leading edge.
>>
>> My stock part came with no bend. Curious if it should have had a factory
>> bend in it or no?
>>
>> Otherwise, I assume, we need to match the contour of the leading edge.
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Jae
>> 40533
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=321937#321937
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pascal" <rv10builder(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Lower Wing Root Fairing (F-1099B) question |
specifically 1099-G. Just realized I did it without even thinking about the
plans not calling for it. It simply made for a better fit so I just did it
without thinking about it.
No big deal, I guess if not done.
Pascal
--------------------------------------------------
From: "DLM" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Sent: Wednesday, December 01, 2010 10:56 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Lower Wing Root Fairing (F-1099B) question
>
> You can also add an extra nutplate on the lower forward area on a
> stationary piece there that does not call for a nutplate in the plans.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Pascal" <rv10builder(at)verizon.net>
> To:
> Sent: Wednesday, December 01, 2010 11:33 AM
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Lower Wing Root Fairing (F-1099B) question
>
>
>>
>> assumption is correct, you custom fit the leading edge to your wing.
>> Pascal
>>
>> --------------------------------------------------
>> From: "jchang10" <jc-matronics_rv10(at)jline.com>
>> Sent: Wednesday, December 01, 2010 10:08 AM
>> To:
>> Subject: RV10-List: Lower Wing Root Fairing (F-1099B) question
>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On page 44-6, the lower wing root fairing (F-1099B) is shown bent around
>>> the leading edge.
>>>
>>> My stock part came with no bend. Curious if it should have had a factory
>>> bend in it or no?
>>>
>>> Otherwise, I assume, we need to match the contour of the leading edge.
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>> Jae
>>> 40533
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Read this topic online here:
>>>
>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=321937#321937
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Lower Wing Root Fairing (F-1099B) question |
| From: | "jchang10" <jc-matronics_rv10(at)jline.com> |
Thanks everyone for the advice. Now, i see on page 44-2, the last step, where it
asks you to conform to the shape of the leading edge. I need to read more carefully!
argh.
Jae
40533
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=321956#321956
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Flightline interior w/ alternative door seals |
| From: | Rob Kochman <rv10rob(at)gmail.com> |
Hi, all... I=92m using a Flightline interior and foam door seals that attac
h
to the door, and I=92m planning on putting that seal where the door interio
r
transitions to paint (see attached drawing). Has anyone done anything
similar and have any guidance (or pictures)? I figure the foam seal will
mask the transition between the interior fabric and the painted door edge.
Thanks=85
-Rob
--
Rob Kochman
RV-10 "Finishing" Kit
Woodinville, WA (near Seattle)
http://kochman.net/N819K
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Flightline interior w/ alternative door seals |
| From: | Rob Kochman <rv10rob(at)gmail.com> |
I meant to label the picture--blue is the interior, red is the paint, and
green is the door seal.
On Wed, Dec 1, 2010 at 3:59 PM, Rob Kochman wrote:
> Hi, all... I=92m using a Flightline interior and foam door seals that att
ach
> to the door, and I=92m planning on putting that seal where the door inter
ior
> transitions to paint (see attached drawing). Has anyone done anything
> similar and have any guidance (or pictures)? I figure the foam seal will
> mask the transition between the interior fabric and the painted door edge
.
>
>
> Thanks=85
>
>
> -Rob
>
>
> --
> Rob Kochman
> RV-10 "Finishing" Kit
> Woodinville, WA (near Seattle)
> http://kochman.net/N819K
>
--
Rob Kochman
RV-10 "Finishing" Kit
Woodinville, WA (near Seattle)
http://kochman.net/N819K
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Flightline interior w/ alternative door seals |
| From: | "Eric_Kallio" <scout019(at)msn.com> |
I recently installed my interior from Abby. Her plans have you wrap the interior
fabric around the edge and glue it down to the 1/2 inch vertical lip if that
makes sense. I thought I had a picture but I can't find it right now and I won't
be back to the hanger until Saturday. Having said that though I don't see
a reason why you couldn't terminate your fabric under your door seal and paint
the edges. In fact it will probably give you a cleaner look. Bottom line, although
her plans are different you should be fine with what you are planning as
long as you are accounting for the additional thickness in fitting the doors
and the trimming of your canopy lip.
Eric Kallio
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=322011#322011
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Flightline interior w/ alternative door seals |
| From: | "Ron B." <cfxoa(at)klis.com> |
Have you thought of using the McMaster-Carr seal? That is what we used thanks to
others before us and are very pleased with it.
Ron
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=322013#322013
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Thottle cable length |
| From: | "ivankris" <ivankris(at)rogers.com> |
All three cables were too short in my installation. I returned all three to Vans
for credit and then re-ordered the 50.5" throttle cable from Vans which is 3"
longer than the one they ship with the kit.
I then ordered two new cables (Mix & Prop) directly from the Mfg. and specified
the length I wanted. They are a bit pricey (about twice Vans prices) that way
but well worth the extra money to get the proper length for proper routing.
The Mfg. is ACS Products. This company was started by the same man who started
Aircraft Spruce and was originally part of that company but is now a separate
entity.
These are the part numbers:
Blue Knob VProp A-1760-30-0745-V with 2.5" stroke
Red Knob Mixture A-1760-20-0535-V with 2.5" stroke
This is a special non refundable order at $159.95 each so be sure that this is
what you need. The part numbers I have given here gives you cables two inches
longer than the cables you get from Vans, this is what I used and they worked
fine. If I had to do it again I believe I would, like the throttle cable, make
them 3 inches longer which would make the installation even easier.
If you plan a std Vans panel order them 2" longer. If you use CF panel from Aerosport
Products order them 3" longer.
To order cables three inches longer change the last number for the blue knob from
0745 to 0755 (75.5") and for the red knob from 0535 to 0545 (54.5")
Keep in mind that if you plan on using the CF instrument panel from http://www.aerosportproducts.com/ then this brings the attach point of these cables in the cockpit back almost one inch which makes longer cables a definite requirement.
To order call Anthony Garcia at Aircraft Spruce at (951) 372-9555 ex. 456 or e-mail
him at anthonygarcia(at)aircraftspruce.com and give him quotation # 249314
--------
Ivan K.
www.ivankristensen.com
Builder # 40838
Flying (60 hrs.)
C-GMDV
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=322015#322015
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Thottle cable length |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
Thank you for that detail. Another option is to order cables you need from
McFarlane Aviation. They make high quality PMA cables for Cessnas and some
Pipers, and will custom make whatever you need. I haven't checked to see
which would be cheaper.
Kelly
On Wed, Dec 1, 2010 at 8:34 PM, ivankris wrote:
>
> All three cables were too short in my installation. I returned all three to
> Vans for credit and then re-ordered the 50.5" throttle cable from Vans which
> is 3" longer than the one they ship with the kit.
>
> I then ordered two new cables (Mix & Prop) directly from the Mfg. and
> specified the length I wanted. They are a bit pricey (about twice Vans
> prices) that way but well worth the extra money to get the proper length for
> proper routing.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Thottle cable length |
| From: | pilotdds <pilotdds(at)aol.com> |
aircraft spruce sells screw on extensions for the control cables-anybody tr
ied them?
-----Original Message-----
From: Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
Sent: Wed, Dec 1, 2010 8:34 pm
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Thottle cable length
Thank you for that detail. Another option is to order cables you need from
McFarlane Aviation. They make high quality PMA cables for Cessnas and some
Pipers, and will custom make whatever you need. I haven't checked to see wh
ich would be cheaper.
Kelly
On Wed, Dec 1, 2010 at 8:34 PM, ivankris wrote:
All three cables were too short in my installation. I returned all three to
Vans for credit and then re-ordered the 50.5" throttle cable from Vans whi
ch is 3" longer than the one they ship with the kit.
I then ordered two new cables (Mix & Prop) directly from the Mfg. and speci
fied the length I wanted. They are a bit pricey (about twice Vans prices) t
hat way but well worth the extra money to get the proper length for proper
routing.
-
-= -- Please Support Your Lists This Month --
-= (And Get Some AWESOME FREE Gifts!)
-
-= November is the Annual List Fund Raiser. Click on
-= the Contribution link below to find out more about
-= this year's Terrific Free Incentive Gifts provided
-= by:
-
-= * AeroElectric www.aeroelectric.com
-= * The Builder's Bookstore www.buildersbooks.com
-= * HomebuiltHELP www.homebuilthelp.com
-
-= List Contribution Web Site:
-
-= --> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
-
-= Thank you for your generous support!
-
-= -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
-
-========================
-= - The RV10-List Email Forum -
-= Use the Matronics List Features Navigator to browse
-= the many List utilities such as List Un/Subscription,
-= Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ,
-= Photoshare, and much much more:
-
-= --> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
-
-========================
-= - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -
-= Same great content also available via the Web Forums!
-
-= --> http://forums.matronics.com
-
-========================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dick & Vicki Sipp" <rsipp(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Propeller exchange? |
I am considering a propeller change from Van=99s supplied Hartzell
2 blade blended airfoil: C2YR-1BFP/F8068D
TO
the MT 3 blade: MTV12B/193-53 recommended for the RV10.
My Hartzell has 300 hours since new, has been maintained IAW the
Hartzell manual and has no damage.
In exchange for a new unused MT I would have Hartzell blades factory
re-painted.
This propeller has provided great performance and is well balanced on my
aircraft. Exchange would include the entire spinner assembly,
preferable with both propellers.
Any one interested? What cash differential?
Dick Sipp
RV10-N110DV 40065 300 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Flightline interior w/ alternative door seals |
| From: | "orchidman" <gary(at)wingscc.com> |
Rob,
Abbie didn't have the seals when I did mine but it looks like hers is about the
same as what I did.
I got the idea from Dave at Aircrafters. I got the foam from MC also but it is
not the same as the seal others are referring to. I think it works great.
--------
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
(N2GB Flying)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=322032#322032
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Propeller exchange? |
Would you tell us WHY you're considering the change???
Linn
On 12/2/2010 1:59 AM, Dick & Vicki Sipp wrote:
> I am considering a propeller change from Van=99s supplied Hartzel
l 2
> blade blended airfoil: C2YR-1BFP/F8068D
>
> TO
> the MT 3 blade: MTV12B/193-53 recommended for the RV10.
> My Hartzell has 300 hours since new, has been maintained IAW the
> Hartzell manual and has no damage.
> In exchange for a new unused MT I would have Hartzell blades factory
> re-painted.
> This propeller has provided great performance and is well balanced on
> my aircraft. Exchange would include the entire spinner assembly,
> preferable with both propellers.
> Any one interested? What cash differential?
> Dick Sipp
> RV10-N110DV 40065 300 hours
> *
>
===========
com>
uildersbooks.com>
lp.com>
===========
===========
===========
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Strasnuts" <sean(at)braunandco.com> |
I would like to see what people are using for all the buttons on the infinity grips.
I'm trying to figure out what I want on these grips:
My list is:
Trigger - PTT
Hat - aileron/elevator trim
Thumb - Autopilot
Thumb - comm flip/flop?
Thumb halfway down the stick - Ident?
Pinky - screen change?
Do these make sense?
--------
Cust. #40936
RV-10 SB Fuselage
N801VR reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=322051#322051
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robin Marks <Robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com> |
RV10-List: infinity grips
On 3 of my planes I did:
=B7 Trigger - PTT
Hat - aileron/elevator trim
Thumb - Autopilot
Thumb - comm flip/flop?
And didn=92t bother with the remaining two buttons. My first with infinity
grips was a steam gauge aircraft (RV-6A) so fewer things to switch. The nex
t
two RV-10 & RV-8A had the above layout but no additional buttons either. I
almost added the Comm Swap which is swapping between Comm 1 & Comm 2 (not
Flip Flop) but decided against based on how I use the panel. I didn=92t wan
t
the ident feature b/c I seem to get ident requests less than once a flight
and I didn=92t want to ident by accident. After years of flying the Infinit
y
stick I don=92t think I have ever hit a button by mistake. On the G900X PFD
one can get back to the main screen by holding the Clear button for 2
seconds. I guess that would have been a nice function to have on a stick
button. Not too dissimilar to your Screen Change.
Good luck,
Robin
*From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:
owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Strasnuts
*Sent:* Thursday, December 02, 2010 6:35 AM
*To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
*Subject:* RV10-List: infinity grips
I would like to see what people are using for all the buttons on the
infinity grips. I'm trying to figure out what I want on these grips:
My list is:
Trigger - PTT
Hat - aileron/elevator trim
Thumb - Autopilot
Thumb - comm flip/flop?
Thumb halfway down the stick - Ident?
Pinky - screen change?
Do these make sense?
--------
Cust. #40936
RV-10 SB Fuselage
N801VR reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=322051#322051
------------------------------
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: infinity grips |
It does depend on your hardware / avionics configuration - but yours is similar
to mine.
The PTT and Hat switches make sense to me and that's how I'm using them.
The upper thumb (green and red straddling the hat) switches swap my audio between
my two radios and cycle through my autopilot modes - just like you're thinking.
The blue one (pinky) is for my altitude hold - engage / disengage.
The lower thumb (black) engages my starter (after first enabling a guarded safety
switch). The black one is set up that way because my key is located below
the throttle quadrant for use by either front seat occupant - this allows one
hand on the throttle and the other to continue flying the plane while attempting
a restart (admittedly - I have not used this and would rather not need to).
This setup has worked great for me for the last two years.
Ralph Capen
RV6A N822AR @ N06 - itchin' to build again...looking two-digit RV's
-----Original Message-----
>From: Strasnuts <sean(at)braunandco.com>
>Sent: Dec 2, 2010 9:34 AM
>To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV10-List: infinity grips
>
>
>I would like to see what people are using for all the buttons on the infinity
grips. I'm trying to figure out what I want on these grips:
>
>My list is:
>
>Trigger - PTT
>Hat - aileron/elevator trim
>Thumb - Autopilot
>Thumb - comm flip/flop?
>Thumb halfway down the stick - Ident?
>Pinky - screen change?
>
>Do these make sense?
>
>--------
>Cust. #40936
>RV-10 SB Fuselage
>N801VR reserved
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=322051#322051
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sean Stephens <sean(at)stephensville.com> |
| Subject: | Re: infinity grips |
Btn 1 (Hat) - Pitch/Roll Trim
Btn 2 (Trigger) - PTT
Btn 3 (Red Thumb) - AP CWS
Btn 4 (Black Thumb) - VP-200 ACK
Btn 5 (Blue Pinky) -
Btn 6 (Green Thumb) - Flaps * changing to toggle switch (ON)/OFF/(ON)
-Sean #40303
On 12/2/10 8:56 AM, Robin Marks wrote:
>
> On 3 of my planes I did:
>
> Trigger - PTT
> Hat - aileron/elevator trim
> Thumb - Autopilot
> Thumb - comm flip/flop?
>
> And didnt bother with the remaining two buttons. My first with
> infinity grips was a steam gauge aircraft (RV-6A) so fewer things to
> switch. The next two RV-10 & RV-8A had the above layout but no
> additional buttons either. I almost added the Comm Swap which is
> swapping between Comm 1 & Comm 2 (not Flip Flop) but decided against
> based on how I use the panel. I didnt want the ident feature b/c I
> seem to get ident requests less than once a flight and I didnt want
> to ident by accident. After years of flying the Infinity stick I dont
> think I have ever hit a button by mistake. On the G900X PFD one can
> get back to the main screen by holding the Clear button for 2 seconds.
> I guess that would have been a nice function to have on a stick
> button. Not too dissimilar to your Screen Change.
>
> Good luck,
>
> Robin
>
> *From:*owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> ] *On Behalf Of *Strasnuts
> *Sent:* Thursday, December 02, 2010 6:35 AM
> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> *Subject:* RV10-List: infinity grips
>
> >
>
> I would like to see what people are using for all the buttons on the
> infinity grips. I'm trying to figure out what I want on these grips:
>
> My list is:
>
> Trigger - PTT
> Hat - aileron/elevator trim
> Thumb - Autopilot
> Thumb - comm flip/flop?
> Thumb halfway down the stick - Ident?
> Pinky - screen change?
>
> Do these make sense?
>
> --------
> Cust. #40936
> RV-10 SB Fuselage
> N801VR reserved
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=322051#322051
> .aeroelectric.com">www.aeroelectric.com
> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
> iption,
> //www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> ttp://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
> =============
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com <http://www.avg.com>
> Version: 10.0.1170 /
>
> *
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: infinity grips |
| From: | Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com> |
I've always done it this way. If you don't have yaw trim, then that frees up a
button from this list for flip/flop. You could put in a momentary toggle to
give you two buttons in one, so left on what I use as a yaw trim button could
be flip/flop and right could be screen change. I really like having flaps on
the stick. I wouldn't do it any other way personally.
Trigger - PTT
Hat - Pitch/Roll Trim
Top Inboard Thumb - Flaps
Top Outboard Thumb - Yaw Trim
Side Thumb - Auto Pilot
Pinky - Acknowledge, flip flop, screen change, etc. (momentary button better than
push-on/push-off)
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
On Dec 2, 2010, at 9:34 AM, Strasnuts wrote:
>
> I would like to see what people are using for all the buttons on the infinity
grips. I'm trying to figure out what I want on these grips:
>
> My list is:
>
> Trigger - PTT
> Hat - aileron/elevator trim
> Thumb - Autopilot
> Thumb - comm flip/flop?
> Thumb halfway down the stick - Ident?
> Pinky - screen change?
>
> Do these make sense?
>
> --------
> Cust. #40936
> RV-10 SB Fuselage
> N801VR reserved
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=322051#322051
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: infinity grips |
| From: | Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com> |
Sean,
May I recommend a toggle ON/OFF/(ON) for the flaps? It's nice to be able to feel
that button up and know that the flaps are retracted.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
On Dec 2, 2010, at 10:20 AM, Sean Stephens wrote:
>
> Btn 1 (Hat) - Pitch/Roll Trim
> Btn 2 (Trigger) - PTT
> Btn 3 (Red Thumb) - AP CWS
> Btn 4 (Black Thumb) - VP-200 ACK
> Btn 5 (Blue Pinky) -
> Btn 6 (Green Thumb) - Flaps * changing to toggle switch (ON)/OFF/(ON)
>
> -Sean #40303
>
>
> On 12/2/10 8:56 AM, Robin Marks wrote:
>>
>> On 3 of my planes I did:
>>
>> Trigger - PTT
>> Hat - aileron/elevator trim
>> Thumb - Autopilot
>> Thumb - comm flip/flop?
>>
>> And didnt bother with the remaining two buttons. My first with infinity grips
was a steam gauge aircraft (RV-6A) so fewer things to switch. The next two RV-10
& RV-8A had the above layout but no additional buttons either. I almost added
the Comm Swap which is swapping between Comm 1 & Comm 2 (not Flip Flop) but
decided against based on how I use the panel. I didnt want the ident feature
b/c I seem to get ident requests less than once a flight and I didnt want to
ident by accident. After years of flying the Infinity stick I dont think I have
ever hit a button by mistake. On the G900X PFD one can get back to the main
screen by holding the Clear button for 2 seconds. I guess that would have been
a nice function to have on a stick button. Not too dissimilar to your Screen
Change.
>>
>> Good luck,
>>
>> Robin
>>
>> *From:*owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com ] *On Behalf Of *Strasnuts
>> *Sent:* Thursday, December 02, 2010 6:35 AM
>> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>> *Subject:* RV10-List: infinity grips
>>
>>
>> I would like to see what people are using for all the buttons on the infinity
grips. I'm trying to figure out what I want on these grips:
>>
>> My list is:
>>
>> Trigger - PTT
>> Hat - aileron/elevator trim
>> Thumb - Autopilot
>> Thumb - comm flip/flop?
>> Thumb halfway down the stick - Ident?
>> Pinky - screen change?
>>
>> Do these make sense?
>>
>> --------
>> Cust. #40936
>> RV-10 SB Fuselage
>> N801VR reserved
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=322051#322051
>> .aeroelectric.com">www.aeroelectric.com
>> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
>> iption,
>> //www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>> ttp://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
>> =============
>>
>>
>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>>
>> No virus found in this message.
>> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com <http://www.avg.com>
>> Version: 10.0.1170 /
>>
>> *
>>
>> *
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: infinity grips |
| From: | "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> |
I used the blue pinky button for Ident.
Green thumb for A/P disc.
Black thumb for Comm swap
Red is empty for now.
John
--------
#40572 Painted and the wings are on.
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=322059#322059
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com> |
Trigger - PTT
Hat - Pitch/Roll Trim
Top Inboard Thumb - Flaps
Top Outboard Thumb - Autopilot
Side Thumb - Frequency Flip Flop, Comm 1 (Love this one)
Pinky - Ident (Not used very often.....thinking of chancing to COMM1/COMM2
flip flop.)
Rene' Felker
N423CF
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Sent: Thursday, December 02, 2010 8:28 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: infinity grips
I've always done it this way. If you don't have yaw trim, then that frees
up a button from this list for flip/flop. You could put in a momentary
toggle to give you two buttons in one, so left on what I use as a yaw trim
button could be flip/flop and right could be screen change. I really like
having flaps on the stick. I wouldn't do it any other way personally.
Trigger - PTT
Hat - Pitch/Roll Trim
Top Inboard Thumb - Flaps
Top Outboard Thumb - Yaw Trim
Side Thumb - Auto Pilot
Pinky - Acknowledge, flip flop, screen change, etc. (momentary button better
than push-on/push-off)
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
On Dec 2, 2010, at 9:34 AM, Strasnuts wrote:
>
> I would like to see what people are using for all the buttons on the
infinity grips. I'm trying to figure out what I want on these grips:
>
> My list is:
>
> Trigger - PTT
> Hat - aileron/elevator trim
> Thumb - Autopilot
> Thumb - comm flip/flop?
> Thumb halfway down the stick - Ident?
> Pinky - screen change?
>
> Do these make sense?
>
> --------
> Cust. #40936
> RV-10 SB Fuselage
> N801VR reserved
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=322051#322051
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sean Stephens <sean(at)stephensville.com> |
| Subject: | Re: infinity grips |
Good point. Looks like the VP-200 can be configured that way also.
Also noticed you put flaps on the inboard side of the stick as opposed
to how I have the AP CWS there. I think that makes better sense as to
further avoid possible unintended use of the CWS btn. And it is easier
to get at there.
Config changes to the following:
Btn 1 (Hat) - Pitch/Roll Trim
Btn 2 (Trigger) - PTT
Btn 3 (Red Thumb) - Flaps * changing to toggle switch ON/OFF/(ON)
Btn 4 (Black Thumb) - VP-200 ACK
Btn 5 (Blue Pinky) - Ident or COM1 freq flip flop
Btn 6 (Green Thumb) - AP CWS * would probably switch btn color to Red
Thanks,
-Sean #40303
On 12/2/10 9:42 AM, Jesse Saint wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Jesse Saint
>
> Sean,
>
> May I recommend a toggle ON/OFF/(ON) for the flaps? It's nice to be able to
feel that button up and know that the flaps are retracted.
>
> Jesse Saint
> Saint Aviation, Inc.
> jesse(at)saintaviation.com
> C: 352-427-0285
> F: 815-377-3694
>
> On Dec 2, 2010, at 10:20 AM, Sean Stephens wrote:
>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens
>>
>> Btn 1 (Hat) - Pitch/Roll Trim
>> Btn 2 (Trigger) - PTT
>> Btn 3 (Red Thumb) - AP CWS
>> Btn 4 (Black Thumb) - VP-200 ACK
>> Btn 5 (Blue Pinky) -
>> Btn 6 (Green Thumb) - Flaps * changing to toggle switch (ON)/OFF/(ON)
>>
>> -Sean #40303
>>
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: infinity grips |
| From: | Jim Ayers <lessdragprod(at)aol.com> |
Hi All,
It looks like there is a combination of similarities and differences in swi
tch functions.
My list is:
Trigger - PTT
Hat - aileron/elevator trim
Thumb (right of hat) - Starter (with panel switch in series)
Thumb (left of hat) - Flap (toggle switch on/off/momentary on)
Thumb (halfway down the stick) - #1 radio flip/flop
Pinky - Autopilot engage/disengage
The front stick on my Less Drag Special (modified HR2) is hard wired with t
he 17(?) wires.
The rear stick only has the 4 wires required for the Cann Aerospace Buss ca
rd. The rear stick will not be wired into the system until I install the C
ann Buss modules. The rear stick will have a enable/disable switch on the
instrument panel. (future development)
The left stick on my RV-6A has a Ray Allen stick grip using the Trigger swi
tch for PTT and the hat for elevator and aileron trim.
The right stick has the four wires connecting all of the Infinity stick gri
p switches to a Cann Aerospace Buss module. As we complete adding in the C
ann Aerospace Buss modules, I will finish designating the switch functions.
(For flight safety, there will be an enable/disable switch on the pilot s
ide of the instrument panel for the passenger stick grip switches.)
With the Cann Aerospace Buss modules and the Infinity stick grip modificati
on, the function of each stick grip switch can be designated and/or changed
without rewiring the stick grip.
Jim Ayers
-----Original Message-----
From: Strasnuts <sean(at)braunandco.com>
Sent: Thu, Dec 2, 2010 6:38 am
Subject: RV10-List: infinity grips
I would like to see what people are using for all the buttons on the infini
ty
rips. I'm trying to figure out what I want on these grips:
My list is:
Trigger - PTT
at - aileron/elevator trim
humb - Autopilot
humb - comm flip/flop?
humb halfway down the stick - Ident?
inky - screen change?
Do these make sense?
--------
ust. #40936
V-10 SB Fuselage
801VR reserved
ead this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=322051#322051
-
-= -- Please Support Your Lists This Month --
-= (And Get Some AWESOME FREE Gifts!)
-
-= November is the Annual List Fund Raiser. Click on
-= the Contribution link below to find out more about
-= this year's Terrific Free Incentive Gifts provided
-= by:
-=
-= * AeroElectric www.aeroelectric.com
-= * The Builder's Bookstore www.buildersbooks.com
-= * HomebuiltHELP www.homebuilthelp.com
-
-= List Contribution Web Site:
-
-= --> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
-
-= Thank you for your generous support!
-
-= -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
-
-========================
-= - The RV10-List Email Forum -
-= Use the Matronics List Features Navigator to browse
-= the many List utilities such as List Un/Subscription,
-= Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ,
-= Photoshare, and much much more:
-
-= --> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
-
-========================
-= - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -
-= Same great content also available via the Web Forums!
-
-= --> http://forums.matronics.com
-
-========================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: infinity grips |
Trigger - PTT
Hat - aileron/elevator trim
Thumb (DPST Momentary) - COM1 / COM2 flip-flop
(works good to flip active to standby on either COM)
Thumb - EFIS Screen mode (cycles PFD/MFD/Engine page)
Thumb halfway down the stick - AP Disconnect
Pinky - EFIS Mute
If your system supports it, I'd definitely do an audio mute
for terrain/traffic/engine warnings on your stick. Also,
of course 100% should have AP disconnect. I use the
com flip flop a lot. Basically I love my stick button layout,
but if you don't have an EFIS mode change button, you'll
have one button to assign to something else.
Some people put flaps, starter, ident, and other things on
the switch...personally I find no use for those to be
that handy or used that often...and some things done
wrong could be downright dangerous.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
On 12/2/2010 8:34 AM, Strasnuts wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Strasnuts"
>
> I would like to see what people are using for all the buttons on the infinity
grips. I'm trying to figure out what I want on these grips:
>
> My list is:
>
> Trigger - PTT
> Hat - aileron/elevator trim
> Thumb - Autopilot
> Thumb - comm flip/flop?
> Thumb halfway down the stick - Ident?
> Pinky - screen change?
>
> Do these make sense?
>
> --------
> Cust. #40936
> RV-10 SB Fuselage
> N801VR reserved
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: infinity grips |
| From: | "Strasnuts" <sean(at)braunandco.com> |
These are great ideas.
I would like to mute terrain on VFR flights and maybe have a TCAS inhibit on the
stick. I could run my terrain audio to the AUX in on the audio panel and turn
it on before IFR flights.
--------
Cust. #40936
RV-10 SB Fuselage
N801VR reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=322069#322069
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Flightline interior w/ alternative door seals |
| From: | Rob Kochman <rv10rob(at)gmail.com> |
I've thought about it, and it looks nice, but it's too late for me without
significantly reworking the door edge. I'm hoping to fly this thing
sometime this century :)
-Rob
On Wed, Dec 1, 2010 at 7:12 PM, Ron B. wrote:
>
> Have you thought of using the McMaster-Carr seal? That is what we used
> thanks to others before us and are very pleased with it.
> Ron
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=322013#322013
>
>
--
Rob Kochman
RV-10 "Finishing" Kit
Woodinville, WA (near Seattle)
http://kochman.net/N819K
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | control cable extensions |
| From: | pilotdds <pilotdds(at)aol.com> |
I noticed that aircraft spruce sells fairly robust control cable extensions
.Has anybody tried these as a method of resolving the short control cable i
ssues?I am curious if there are any unintended complications.It seems,at le
ast on the surface to be an easy fix without having to order compete new cu
stom cables.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Flightline interior w/ alternative door seals |
| From: | Robin Marks <robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com> |
Rob there are 90 years left in this century. That's just about the right
amount of time to rework the doors.
On a serious note the MC door seals are just about the best choice
available. Better now than later.
Robin
Sent from Android phone
Probably while driving
On Dec 2, 2010 10:35 AM, "Rob Kochman" wrote:
I've thought about it, and it looks nice, but it's too late for me without
significantly reworking the door edge. I'm hoping to fly this thing
sometime this century :)
-Rob
On Wed, Dec 1, 2010 at 7:12 PM, Ron B. wrote:
>
> Have you thought of using the McMaster-Carr seal? That is what we used
> thanks to others before us and are very pleased with it.
> Ron
>
>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Read this topic online here:
> >
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=322013#322013
>
>
> > ber is the Annual List Fund Raiser. Click on
> /" target="_blank">www.aeroelectric.com
> omebuiltHELP www.homebuilthelp.com
> http:/r generous support!
>
>
> > nics List Features Navigator to browse
> s.com/Navigator?RV10-List"
> target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List>
> ronics.com/" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
> =============
>
>
--
Rob Kochman
RV-10 "Finishing" Kit
Woodinville, WA (near Seattle)
http://kochman.net/N819K
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | control cable extensions |
These extension will only work in relation to a length issue between the br
acket and the servo arm. They will not solve the problem of an overall leng
th issue of the cable jacket.
It seems that the standard cables for the standard set up would have been b
est fabricated 1-2 inches longer.
Subject: RV10-List: control cable extensions
From: pilotdds(at)aol.com
Date: Thu=2C 2 Dec 2010 13:53:05 -0500
I noticed that aircraft spruce sells fairly robust control cable extensions
.Has anybody tried these as a method of resolving the short control cable i
ssues?I am curious if there are any unintended complications.It seems=2Cat
least on the surface to be an easy fix without having to order compete new
custom cables.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: control cable extensions |
| From: | pilotdds <pilotdds(at)aol.com> |
thanks john-I guess I will be reordering cables,Isorta wanted a veneir thro
ttle anyway
-----Original Message-----
From: John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com>
Sent: Thu, Dec 2, 2010 1:06 pm
Subject: RE: RV10-List: control cable extensions
These extension will only work in relation to a length issue between the br
acket and the servo arm. They will not solve the problem of an overall leng
th issue of the cable jacket.
It seems that the standard cables for the standard set up would have been b
est fabricated 1-2 inches longer.
Subject: RV10-List: control cable extensions
From: pilotdds(at)aol.com
Date: Thu, 2 Dec 2010 13:53:05 -0500
I noticed that aircraft spruce sells fairly robust control cable extensions
.Has anybody tried these as a method of resolving the short control cable i
ssues?I am curious if there are any unintended complications.It seems,at le
ast on the surface to be an easy fix without having to order compete new cu
stom cables.
_blank>www.aeroelectric.com
" target=_blank>www.buildersbooks.com
_blank>www.homebuilthelp.com
_blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
rget=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
tp://forums.matronics.com
-
-= -- Please Support Your Lists This Month --
-= (And Get Some AWESOME FREE Gifts!)
-
-= November is the Annual List Fund Raiser. Click on
-= the Contribution link below to find out more about
-= this year's Terrific Free Incentive Gifts provided
-= by:
-
-= * AeroElectric www.aeroelectric.com
-= * The Builder's Bookstore www.buildersbooks.com
-= * HomebuiltHELP www.homebuilthelp.com
-
-= List Contribution Web Site:
-
-= --> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
-
-= Thank you for your generous support!
-
-= -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
-
-========================
-= - The RV10-List Email Forum -
-= Use the Matronics List Features Navigator to browse
-= the many List utilities such as List Un/Subscription,
-= Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ,
-= Photoshare, and much much more:
-
-= --> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
-
-========================
-= - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -
-= Same great content also available via the Web Forums!
-
-= --> http://forums.matronics.com
-
-========================
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: infinity grips |
| From: | David Maib <dmaib(at)me.com> |
Trigger-PTT
Hat_ elevator/aileron trim
Thumb-comm flip flop
Thumb-VP200 acknowledge/checklist advance. (in my opinion this is a must have if
you have VP)
Halfway down stick_ Autopilot disconnect/CWS
Pinky-rudder trim
If I had it to do over, I would consider putting a start button on the pinky instead
of rudder trim. It would be nice to be able to hold the stick while activating
the starter and manipulating the throttle with the right hand. VP will
keep you from engaging the starter at a time when you don't want to.
$.02 worth
David Maib
40559
Flying.
On Dec 2, 2010, at 9:34 AM, Strasnuts wrote:
>
> I would like to see what people are using for all the buttons on the infinity
grips. I'm trying to figure out what I want on these grips:
>
> My list is:
>
> Trigger - PTT
> Hat - aileron/elevator trim
> Thumb - Autopilot
> Thumb - comm flip/flop?
> Thumb halfway down the stick - Ident?
> Pinky - screen change?
>
> Do these make sense?
>
> --------
> Cust. #40936
> RV-10 SB Fuselage
> N801VR reserved
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=322051#322051
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Fwd: Rv10 quick build kit for sale |
| From: | Russell Shavitz <russ.shavitz(at)gmail.com> |
---------- Forwarded message ----------
From: Russell Shavitz <russ.shavitz(at)gmail.com>
Date: Thu, Dec 2, 2010 at 5:13 PM
Subject: Rv10 quick build kit for sale
For Sale Rv10 quick build wing and fuse finish kit empanage is finished tail
cone is installed
rudder pedals installed fuel system installed flap system installed. I have
70,000 invested
will sell for $ 55,000
Russell Shavitz
847-417-6622
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | fwf/engine hanging procedures |
| From: | "rvdave" <davidbf(at)centurytel.net> |
Am getting close to hanging engine to start trimming cowling, I don't yet have
the fwf kit or anything yet. Should I be planning to be removing engine again
and again while working on things between engine mount and firewall or can I
plan on one time permanent mount?
--------
Dave Ford
RV6 flying
RV10 building
Cadillac, MI
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=322125#322125
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Maib <dmaib(at)mac.com> |
| Subject: | Re: fwf/engine hanging procedures |
Dave,
I imagine you will have it back off at least once and maybe more.
David Maib
40559
Flying
On Dec 2, 2010, at 9:04 PM, rvdave wrote:
Am getting close to hanging engine to start trimming cowling, I don't
yet have the fwf kit or anything yet. Should I be planning to be
removing engine again and again while working on things between
engine mount and firewall or can I plan on one time permanent mount?
--------
Dave Ford
RV6 flying
RV10 building
Cadillac, MI
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=322125#322125
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: fwf/engine hanging procedures |
| From: | Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com> |
If you don't have the fwf kit yet you'll want to pull it off again. Lots of stuff
gets mounted on the fw that is easier w/o the engine on.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
www.mavericklsa.com
C: 352-427-0285
O: 352-465-4545
F: 815-377-3694
Sent from my iPhone
On Dec 2, 2010, at 9:04 PM, "rvdave" wrote:
>
> Am getting close to hanging engine to start trimming cowling, I don't yet have
the fwf kit or anything yet. Should I be planning to be removing engine again
and again while working on things between engine mount and firewall or can
I plan on one time permanent mount?
>
> --------
> Dave Ford
> RV6 flying
> RV10 building
> Cadillac, MI
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=322125#322125
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: fwf/engine hanging procedures |
| From: | "rvdave" <davidbf(at)centurytel.net> |
My thoughts are to first get isolators and bolts/nuts, hang engine to line up &
mark where penetrations must be made through firewall, complete baffling & cowl
fitting, take it off once for room to work, then if I haven't forgotten anything,
one last mounting. Can it be that simple? [Laughing]
--------
Dave Ford
RV6 flying
RV10 building
Cadillac, MI
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=322134#322134
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: fwf/engine hanging procedures |
| From: | "Strasnuts" <sean(at)braunandco.com> |
I hung my engine right away. I believe some items might be easier done without
the engine but I had no problems doing everything later. Sometimes it's just
easier to get some items done and go on. Maybe it is mental but mounting the
engine was a motivator for me. That goes for the subpanel too. There comes
a time when you just have to do it and move on and you get things done.
--------
Cust. #40936
RV-10 SB Fuselage
N801VR reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=322135#322135
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: fwf/engine hanging procedures |
| From: | Rob Kochman <rv10rob(at)gmail.com> |
I mounted mine only once. If you have a pretty standard setup, mount stuff
and put the firewall penetrations where Van's tells you to, and do the
things Van's tells you to do before mounting the engine, it works out fine.
I did add a couple extra holes later on the upper part of the firewall, but
there's plenty of room to work up there, even with the engine on.
I'd recommend getting the FWF kit now, or at least the few items you need to
install before mounting the engine.
-Rob
On Thu, Dec 2, 2010 at 8:12 PM, Jesse Saint wrote:
>
> If you don't have the fwf kit yet you'll want to pull it off again. Lots
> of stuff gets mounted on the fw that is easier w/o the engine on.
>
> Jesse Saint
> I-TEC, Inc.
> jesse(at)itecusa.org
> www.itecusa.org
> www.mavericklsa.com
> C: 352-427-0285
> O: 352-465-4545
> F: 815-377-3694
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Dec 2, 2010, at 9:04 PM, "rvdave" wrote:
>
> >
> > Am getting close to hanging engine to start trimming cowling, I don't yet
> have the fwf kit or anything yet. Should I be planning to be removing
> engine again and again while working on things between engine mount and
> firewall or can I plan on one time permanent mount?
> >
> > --------
> > Dave Ford
> > RV6 flying
> > RV10 building
> > Cadillac, MI
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Read this topic online here:
> >
> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=322125#322125
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
--
Rob Kochman
RV-10 "Finishing" Kit
Woodinville, WA (near Seattle)
http://kochman.net/N819K
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
| Subject: | fwf/engine hanging procedures |
As many have mentioned, I purchased these parts that are indicated on FF1-3
that would be easier to install before the engine mount.
I wanted to get the engine mounted so that I could start working on the
cowl. Since I'm on the incur no debt plan, I didn't have the cash for the
FWF kit. So to more effectively manage my budget, I just ordered these
parts in advance. I'll order the rest of the FWF kit a few months down the
road.
Bob
-----Original Message-----
On Dec 2, 2010, at 9:04 PM, rvdave wrote:
davidbf(at)centurytel.net>
Am getting close to hanging engine to start trimming cowling, I don't yet
have the fwf kit or anything yet. Should I be planning to be removing
engine again and again while working on things between engine mount and
firewall or can I plan on one time permanent mount?
--------
Dave Ford
RV6 flying
RV10 building
Cadillac, MI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: fwf/engine hanging procedures |
I mounted & removed mine once (with FWF kit) so I could do the cowl
fitting and for inspiration.
I would suggest not trying to remove or re-install with the prop
attached. The initial mounting was a surprisingly easy 1 person
operation. However, with the prop on it, I just couldn't coax it back
onto the mounting. It seemed like it shouldn't matter but once I
decided to remove the prop (multi-person op 3 weeks later), the engine
slipped on in 15 min.
Bill
On 12/2/2010 9:04 PM, rvdave wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "rvdave"
>
> Am getting close to hanging engine to start trimming cowling, I don't yet have
the fwf kit or anything yet. Should I be planning to be removing engine again
and again while working on things between engine mount and firewall or can
I plan on one time permanent mount?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Mixing Brake Fluids |
| From: | "dmaib(at)me.com" <dmaib(at)me.com> |
Is there any problem adding Royco 782 to my brake system that currently has 5606
in it?
--------
David Maib
RV-10 #40559
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=322154#322154
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Ethanol and Proseal |
| From: | Ronald Walker <n520tx(at)gmail.com> |
> Does anybody know off the top of their head how Proseal handles
> Ethanol?
My neighbor built a Mazda Renesis powered RV7a and has been running 91
octane MoGas since about 2005. This year, TX went to adding ethanol too
all it's fuel and his tanks are now blistering paint at most all of the
top side tank rivets. The bottoms seem ok so far, theorizing that
something about the ethanol vapor doesn't play nice with the proseal.
He's now running 100LL and no new blistering has shown up.
Just some real world anecdotal evidence.
Ron
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Mixing Brake Fluids |
| From: | "George, Neal E Capt USAF ACC 505 TRS/DOJ" <Neal.George(at)hurlburt.af.mil> |
David -
Royco 782 is formulated to meet MIL-PRF-83282, and is compatible with fluids
that meet MIL-5606.
Tim offers sound advise. Changing the O-rings to Viton and flushing the
system with fresh 83282 will increase your hot-brake and flash-point
margins.
Neal
=============
Is there any problem adding Royco 782 to my brake system that currently has
5606 in it?
--------
David Maib
RV-10 #40559
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Mixing Brake Fluids |
| From: | "rleffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
Neal,
Do we need to swap the o-rings prior to installing 83282? Or is that only because
5606 was previously used?
thanks,
bob
--------
Bob Leffler
N410BL - Finish
RV-10 #40684
http://mykitlog.com/rleffler
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=322170#322170
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Mixing Brake Fluids |
| From: | "George, Neal E Capt USAF ACC 505 TRS/DOJ" <Neal.George(at)hurlburt.af.mil> |
The Buna O-rings that came on the pucks are compatible with the MIL-83282,
but Viton has higher temp limits - like 425*F (Viton) vs 285*F (Buna) if
memory serves.
neal
-----Original Message-----
Neal,
Do we need to swap the o-rings prior to installing 83282? Or is that only
because 5606 was previously used?
thanks,
bob
--------
Bob Leffler
N410BL - Finish
RV-10 #40684
http://mykitlog.com/rleffler
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Mixing Brake Fluids |
| From: | "rleffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
Tim, Neal,
Thanks for the information!
bob
--------
Bob Leffler
N410BL - Finish
RV-10 #40684
http://mykitlog.com/rleffler
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=322180#322180
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris Johnston <CJohnston(at)popsound.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Flightline interior w/ alternative door seals |
ha. 90 years indeed... I recently decided to rework my door frames for the MC
door seals, and it didn't turn out to be that big of a deal. the biggest bummer
is that I had to cut the gas strut mount out of the overhead console. I bought
the Planearound strut mount, and it's pretty much a drop in replacement.
I'm super happy with how the door frames/seals work now, as I've also got the
Planearound 3rd door latch thingy (90 retrofit model). I've been covered in
dust for the duration of the project, but it really worked out nice.
cj
________________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]
On Behalf Of Robin Marks [robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com]
Sent: Thursday, December 02, 2010 11:35 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Flightline interior w/ alternative door seals
Rob there are 90 years left in this century. That's just about the right amount
of time to rework the doors.
On a serious note the MC door seals are just about the best choice available. Better
now than later.
Robin
Sent from Android phone
Probably while driving
On Dec 2, 2010 10:35 AM, "Rob Kochman" > wrote:
I've thought about it, and it looks nice, but it's too late for me without significantly
reworking the door edge. I'm hoping to fly this thing sometime this
century :)
-Rob
On Wed, Dec 1, 2010 at 7:12 PM, Ron B. > wrote:
Have you thought of using the McMaster-Carr seal? That is what we used thanks to
others before us and are very pleased with it.
Ron
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=322013#322013
> ber is the Annual List Fund Raiser. Click on
/" target="_blank">www.aeroelectric.com<http://www.aeroelectric.com>
omebuiltHELP www.homebuilthelp.com<http://www.homebuilthelp.com/>
http:/r generous support!<http://www.matronics.com/contribution>
> nics List Features Navigator to browse
s.com/Navigator?RV10-List" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
ronics.com/<http://ronics.com/>" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
=============
--
Rob Kochman
RV-10 "Finishing" Kit
Woodinville, WA (near Seattle)
http://kochman.net/N819K
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Flightline interior w/ alternative door seals |
| From: | Rob Kochman <rv10rob(at)gmail.com> |
Out of curiosity, when using the mcmaster seals on the cabin top, what do
the seals press against? If you're using an interior, I'd imagine you'd
have to end it before the point at which the seals presses.
-Rob
On Fri, Dec 3, 2010 at 12:24 PM, Chris Johnston wrote:
>
> ha. 90 years indeed... I recently decided to rework my door frames for
> the MC door seals, and it didn't turn out to be that big of a deal. the
> biggest bummer is that I had to cut the gas strut mount out of the overhead
> console. I bought the Planearound strut mount, and it's pretty much a drop
> in replacement. I'm super happy with how the door frames/seals work now, as
> I've also got the Planearound 3rd door latch thingy (90 retrofit model).
> I've been covered in dust for the duration of the project, but it really
> worked out nice.
>
> cj
> ________________________________________
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [
> owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robin Marks
> [robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com]
> Sent: Thursday, December 02, 2010 11:35 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Flightline interior w/ alternative door seals
>
> Rob there are 90 years left in this century. That's just about the right
> amount of time to rework the doors.
> On a serious note the MC door seals are just about the best choice
> available. Better now than later.
>
> Robin
> Sent from Android phone
> Probably while driving
>
> On Dec 2, 2010 10:35 AM, "Rob Kochman" rv10rob(at)gmail.com>> wrote:
>
> I've thought about it, and it looks nice, but it's too late for me without
> significantly reworking the door edge. I'm hoping to fly this thing
> sometime this century :)
>
> -Rob
>
> On Wed, Dec 1, 2010 at 7:12 PM, Ron B. cfxoa(at)klis.com>> wrote:
> cfxoa(at)klis.com>>
>
> Have you thought of using the McMaster-Carr seal? That is what we used
> thanks to others before us and are very pleased with it.
> Ron
>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Read this topic online here:
> >
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=322013#322013
>
> > ber is the Annual List Fund Raiser. Click on
>
> /" target="_blank">www.aeroelectric.com<http://www.aeroelectric.com>
> omebuiltHELP www.homebuilthelp.com<http://www.homebuilthelp.com/>
> http:/r generous support!<http://www.matronics.com/contribution>
>
> > nics List Features Navigator to browse
>
> s.com/Navigator?RV10-List" target="_blank">
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> ronics.com/<http://ronics.com/>" target="_blank">
> http://forums.matronics.com
> =============
>
>
> --
> Rob Kochman
> RV-10 "Finishing" Kit
> Woodinville, WA (near Seattle)
> http://kochman.net/N819K
>
>
--
Rob Kochman
RV-10 "Finishing" Kit
Woodinville, WA (near Seattle)
http://kochman.net/N819K
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Ethanol and Proseal |
| From: | Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
I knew an individual that used auto fuel in a 180hp Mooney with
prosealed tanks. The 60's vintage sealant clearly was not as good, and
it all softened and turned to goo over time. Just from auto gas, not
with ethanol.
On Fri, Dec 3, 2010 at 8:04 AM, Ronald Walker wrote:
>
>> Does anybody know off the top of their head how Proseal handles
>> Ethanol?
>
> My neighbor built a Mazda Renesis powered RV7a and has been running 91
> octane MoGas since about 2005. This year, TX went to adding ethanol too
> all it's fuel and his tanks are now blistering paint at most all of the
> top side tank rivets. The bottoms seem ok so far, theorizing that
> something about the ethanol vapor doesn't play nice with the proseal.
> He's now running 100LL and no new blistering has shown up.
>
> Just some real world anecdotal evidence.
>
> Ron
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Ethanol and Proseal |
Somewhere in the not-too-distant-past was a thread that basically said
that the old stuff was softened by auto fuel .... and most likely auto
fuel with ethanol ..... but the newer stuff is tolerant of both. Now
that comes from my memory which is suspect. I would suggest going to
the manufacturer (flamemaster) to get the straight scoop lest urban
legend bite you in the ...... fuel tank.
Linn
On 12/3/2010 4:01 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Kelly McMullen
>
> I knew an individual that used auto fuel in a 180hp Mooney with
> prosealed tanks. The 60's vintage sealant clearly was not as good, and
> it all softened and turned to goo over time. Just from auto gas, not
> with ethanol.
>
> On Fri, Dec 3, 2010 at 8:04 AM, Ronald Walker wrote:
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Ronald Walker
>>
>>> Does anybody know off the top of their head how Proseal handles
>>> Ethanol?
>> My neighbor built a Mazda Renesis powered RV7a and has been running 91
>> octane MoGas since about 2005. This year, TX went to adding ethanol too
>> all it's fuel and his tanks are now blistering paint at most all of the
>> top side tank rivets. The bottoms seem ok so far, theorizing that
>> something about the ethanol vapor doesn't play nice with the proseal.
>> He's now running 100LL and no new blistering has shown up.
>>
>> Just some real world anecdotal evidence.
>>
>> Ron
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Les Kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Flightline interior w/ alternative door seals |
Rob
It compresses against the door interior (not the edge)
Cheers
Les
#40643
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rob Kochman
Sent: December-03-10 1:58 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Flightline interior w/ alternative door seals
Out of curiosity, when using the mcmaster seals on the cabin top, what do
the seals press against? If you're using an interior, I'd imagine you'd
have to end it before the point at which the seals presses.
-Rob
On Fri, Dec 3, 2010 at 12:24 PM, Chris Johnston
wrote:
ha. 90 years indeed... I recently decided to rework my door frames for the
MC door seals, and it didn't turn out to be that big of a deal. the biggest
bummer is that I had to cut the gas strut mount out of the overhead console.
I bought the Planearound strut mount, and it's pretty much a drop in
replacement. I'm super happy with how the door frames/seals work now, as
I've also got the Planearound 3rd door latch thingy (90 retrofit model).
I've been covered in dust for the duration of the project, but it really
worked out nice.
cj
________________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robin Marks
[robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com]
Sent: Thursday, December 02, 2010 11:35 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Flightline interior w/ alternative door seals
Rob there are 90 years left in this century. That's just about the right
amount of time to rework the doors.
On a serious note the MC door seals are just about the best choice
available. Better now than later.
Robin
Sent from Android phone
Probably while driving
On Dec 2, 2010 10:35 AM, "Rob Kochman"
> wrote:
I've thought about it, and it looks nice, but it's too late for me without
significantly reworking the door edge. I'm hoping to fly this thing
sometime this century :)
-Rob
On Wed, Dec 1, 2010 at 7:12 PM, Ron B.
> wrote:
>
Have you thought of using the McMaster-Carr seal? That is what we used
thanks to others before us and are very pleased with it.
Ron
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=322013#322013
> ber is the Annual List Fund Raiser. Click on
/" target="_blank">www.aeroelectric.com <http://www.aeroelectric.com/>
<http://www.aeroelectric.com >
omebuiltHELP www.homebuilthelp.com <http://www.homebuilthelp.com/>
<http://www.homebuilthelp.com/>
http:/r generous support!<http://www.matronics.com/contribution>
> nics List Features Navigator to browse
s.com/Navigator?RV10-List"
target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
ronics.com/<http://ronics.com/>" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
<http://forums.matronics.com/>
=============
--
Rob Kochman
RV-10 "Finishing" Kit
Woodinville, WA (near Seattle)
http://kochman.net/N819K
November is the Annual List Fund Raiser. Click on
/" target="_blank">www.aeroelectric.com
omebuiltHELP www.homebuilthelp.com <http://www.homebuilthelp.com/>
http:/r generous <http://www.matronics.com/contribution> support!
nics List Features Navigator to browse
s.com/Navigator?RV10-List"
target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
ronics.com/" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
=============
--
Rob Kochman
RV-10 "Finishing" Kit
Woodinville, WA (near Seattle)
http://kochman.net/N819K
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan Benua <danbenua(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | How are things with you?3333 |
22/1/13
Hey friend!
I came across a very nice website zxoor.com, they have a variety of items, also
they have much superior quality, what's most important is their ultra low prices
and fast delivery, they have consumers from all over the world, and I hope you
can find the suitable things for you, thanks!
Good
luck!
danbenua(at)yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Flightline interior w/ alternative door seals |
| From: | "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> |
I tried a foam seal filling the gap and finally decided to go for the McM seal.
It gives a nice finished edge and apparently is gaining popularity.
The McM seal definitely takes some time to install - lots of dust and cutting,
but in the end looks great.
--------
See you OSH '11
Q/B - flying 1 yr+
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=322236#322236
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | davidsoutpost(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | Re: Flightline interior w/ alternative door seals |
I can not seem to be able to find the part number for the McMaster door seal being
discussed right now. Does anyone have it handy or remember it? I will be starting
my canopy in about a month and might as well go that route. Thanks!
David Clifford
RV-10 Builder
65% Done-95% To Go
N849RV (reserved)
----- Original Message -----
From: "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net>
Sent: Saturday, December 4, 2010 1:48:27 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Flightline interior w/ alternative door seals
I tried a foam seal filling the gap and finally decided to go for the McM seal.
It gives a nice finished edge and apparently is gaining popularity.
The McM seal definitely takes some time to install - lots of dust and cutting,
but in the end looks great.
--------
See you OSH '11
Q/B - flying 1 yr+
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=322236#322236
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Coldenhoff <rvlist1(at)rv9a.deru.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Ethanol and Proseal |
On 12/03/2010 07:49 AM, Jesse Saint wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Jesse
> Saint
>
> Does anybody know off the top of their head how Proseal handles
> Ethanol? We are thinking about making some "wet wing" tanks for our
> Maverick flying car (www.mavericklsa.com), but it needs to be able to
> handle ethanol.
Hello -
I have been using MOGAS with ethanol in my RV9a since 2005 with no
negative effects at all.
In 2008 I pulled the tanks to safety wire the internal plumbing per
Van's service bulletin. At that time, with three years of ethanol use,
the tanks looked just as good on the inside as when I sealed them up the
first time. The proseal was still just as firm.
--
Tim Coldenhoff
RV9a N194TC Egg 2.5L NA - Flying!
http://www.deru.com/~rv9a
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Flightline interior w/ alternative door seals |
Hey David,
Here's what I think they use
http://www.mcmaster.com/#edge-seals/=4175l2 part #1120A313 (look in
right column).
I'll try to attach Les's documentation that I saved -- excellent write
up!
Later, - Lew
----- Original Message -----
From: davidsoutpost(at)comcast.net
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, December 04, 2010 8:25 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Flightline interior w/ alternative door
seals
I can not seem to be able to find the part number for the McMaster
door seal being discussed right now. Does anyone have it handy or
remember it? I will be starting my canopy in about a month and might as
well go that route. Thanks!
David Clifford
RV-10 Builder
65% Done-95% To Go
N849RV (reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: fwf/engine hanging procedures |
| From: | "rvdave" <davidbf(at)centurytel.net> |
I've been going over the fwf list that Bob L. had in the archives, it showed 3
black cables, 2 for heat, what is the other one for?
3.00 CT A-740 BLACK PUSH PULL CABLE BLACK
--------
Dave Ford
RV6 flying
RV10 building
Cadillac, MI
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=322263#322263
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DLM" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: fwf/engine hanging procedures |
alt air door for air box
----- Original Message -----
From: "rvdave" <davidbf(at)centurytel.net>
Sent: Saturday, December 04, 2010 9:44 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: fwf/engine hanging procedures
>
> I've been going over the fwf list that Bob L. had in the archives, it
> showed 3 black cables, 2 for heat, what is the other one for?
>
> 3.00 CT A-740 BLACK PUSH PULL CABLE BLACK
>
> --------
> Dave Ford
> RV6 flying
> RV10 building
> Cadillac, MI
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=322263#322263
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DLM" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: fwf/engine hanging procedures |
If you are installing a parking brake you will need to buy an extra.
----- Original Message -----
From: "rvdave" <davidbf(at)centurytel.net>
Sent: Saturday, December 04, 2010 9:44 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: fwf/engine hanging procedures
>
> I've been going over the fwf list that Bob L. had in the archives, it
> showed 3 black cables, 2 for heat, what is the other one for?
>
> 3.00 CT A-740 BLACK PUSH PULL CABLE BLACK
>
> --------
> Dave Ford
> RV6 flying
> RV10 building
> Cadillac, MI
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=322263#322263
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Re: fwf/engine hanging procedures |
Hey Dave,
We used that one for the bypass door on the air filter.
Later, - Lew
----- Original Message -----
From: "rvdave" <davidbf(at)centurytel.net>
Sent: Saturday, December 04, 2010 11:44 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: fwf/engine hanging procedures
>
> I've been going over the fwf list that Bob L. had in the archives, it
> showed 3 black cables, 2 for heat, what is the other one for?
>
> 3.00 CT A-740 BLACK PUSH PULL CABLE BLACK
>
> --------
> Dave Ford
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: fwf/engine hanging procedures |
Alternate air flap for air intake assembly?
Bill
On 12/4/2010 11:44 AM, rvdave wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "rvdave"
>
> I've been going over the fwf list that Bob L. had in the archives, it showed
3 black cables, 2 for heat, what is the other one for?
>
> 3.00 CT A-740 BLACK PUSH PULL CABLE BLACK
>
> --------
> Dave Ford
> RV6 flying
> RV10 building
> Cadillac, MI
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: fwf/engine hanging procedures |
| From: | Jim Combs <jiminlexky(at)gmail.com> |
alternate air
On Sat, Dec 4, 2010 at 11:44 AM, rvdave wrote:
>
> I've been going over the fwf list that Bob L. had in the archives, it
> showed 3 black cables, 2 for heat, what is the other one for?
>
> 3.00 CT A-740 BLACK PUSH PULL CABLE BLACK
>
> --------
> Dave Ford
> RV6 flying
> RV10 building
> Cadillac, MI
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=322263#322263
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Flightline interior w/ alternative door seals |
This is a great doc, with one exception. If you notice the photo of the
cross section of the door seal, you will see a barb on the same side as
the seal. It needs to be on the other side (interior of the door). It
should be #2, not #3. There is enough fit issues without adding more
mass between the cabin cover frame and the door.
Myself and several others have used 1120A411, Edge-Grip Rubber Seal Bulb
Opposite Grabber, 1/4" Edge, 3/8" Bulb Width.
The difference is that it has a =C2=BC=9D edge, as oppose to
3/8=9D. We added a few ply of fiberglass to the back side of the
cabin cover frame to ensure a tight fit for the =C2=BC=9D seal.
This also has the benefit off adding more mass to the cabin cover to
offset some of the structure that was removed in the rain gutter.
Probably no right way to do it. Just the method that
you think works best for you.
bob
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lew Gallagher
Sent: Saturday, December 04, 2010 9:17 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Flightline interior w/ alternative door
seals
Hey David,
Here's what I think they use
<http://www.mcmaster.com/#edge-seals/=4175l2>
http://www.mcmaster.com/#edge-seals/=4175l2 part #1120A313 (look in
right column).
I'll try to attach Les's documentation that I saved -- excellent write
up!
Later, - Lew
----- Original Message -----
From: davidsoutpost(at)comcast.net
Sent: Saturday, December 04, 2010 8:25 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Flightline interior w/ alternative door
seals
I can not seem to be able to find the part number for the McMaster door
seal being discussed right now. Does anyone have it handy or remember
it? I will be starting my canopy in about a month and might as well go
that route. Thanks!
David Clifford
RV-10 Builder
65% Done-95% To Go
N849RV (reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robin Marks <Robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com> |
| Subject: | Re: fwf/engine hanging procedures |
If you have an Airflow Performance Throttle body (FM200 / FM300) you will
also need one for the Purge valve.
I chose Red for the heat and black for the Purge & Parking Brake.
Robin
*From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:
owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Jim Combs
*Sent:* Saturday, December 04, 2010 9:13 AM
*To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
*Subject:* Re: RV10-List: Re: fwf/engine hanging procedures
alternate air
On Sat, Dec 4, 2010 at 11:44 AM, rvdave wrote:
I've been going over the fwf list that Bob L. had in the archives, it showed
3 black cables, 2 for heat, what is the other one for?
3.00 CT A-740 BLACK PUSH PULL CABLE BLACK
--------
Dave Ford
RV6 flying
RV10 building
Cadillac, MI
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=322263#322263
==========
="_blank">www.aeroelectric.com
ooks.com" target="_blank">www.buildersbooks.com
et="_blank">www.homebuilthelp.com
="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
le, List Admin.
==========
arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
==========
http://forums.matronics.com
==========
* *
* *
------------------------------
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: fwf/engine hanging procedures |
| From: | "rvdave" <davidbf(at)centurytel.net> |
ok thanks, I assume FAB kit comes with alternate air hardware?
--------
Dave Ford
RV6 flying
RV10 building
Cadillac, MI
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=322277#322277
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | MT prop Governor set screw |
ON the top of the MT governor is a set screw which allow the servo arm to b
e reoriented to the correct angle per different installations.
Seing that MT is a German company=2C I thought that the set screw was a met
ric allen wrench. I appears that non of the metric allen wrenches I purchas
ed are of the correct size. Also=2C by chance I thought that it might be a
star drive and it isn't that either=2C at least not in standard sizes.
Does anyone know what tool will losen this set screw and is the set screw s
tandard clockwise rotation for tightening and counterclockwise for loosenin
g.??
Thanks=2C
John
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: MT prop Governor set screw |
| From: | Jim Ayers <lessdragprod(at)aol.com> |
Don't remove the governor arm!!!!!!!!!
Cut the safety wire on the six screws behjnd the governor arm.
LOOSEN the six screws.
Rotate the governor arm and stop assembly to the position you want.
Tighten the six screws.
Safety wire the six screws.
Jim Ayers
Less Drag Products, Inc.
An MT Propeller distributor
-----Original Message-----
From: John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com>
Sent: Sun, Dec 5, 2010 6:09 pm
Subject: RV10-List: MT prop Governor set screw
ON the top of the MT governor is a set screw which allow the servo arm to b
e reoriented to the correct angle per different installations.
Seing that MT is a German company, I thought that the set screw was a metri
c allen wrench. I appears that non of the metric allen wrenches I purchased
are of the correct size. Also, by chance I thought that it might be a star
drive and it isn't that either, at least not in standard sizes.
Does anyone know what tool will losen this set screw and is the set screw s
tandard clockwise rotation for tightening and counterclockwise for loosenin
g.??
Thanks,
John
-
-= -- Please Support Your Lists This Month --
-= (And Get Some AWESOME FREE Gifts!)
-
-= November is the Annual List Fund Raiser. Click on
-= the Contribution link below to find out more about
-= this year's Terrific Free Incentive Gifts provided
-= by:
-
-= * AeroElectric www.aeroelectric.com
-= * The Builder's Bookstore www.buildersbooks.com
-= * HomebuiltHELP www.homebuilthelp.com
-
-= List Contribution Web Site:
-
-= --> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
-
-= Thank you for your generous support!
-
-= -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
-
-========================
-= - The RV10-List Email Forum -
-= Use the Matronics List Features Navigator to browse
-= the many List utilities such as List Un/Subscription,
-= Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ,
-= Photoshare, and much much more:
-
-= --> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
-
-========================
-= - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -
-= Same great content also available via the Web Forums!
-
-= --> http://forums.matronics.com
-
-========================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | MT prop Governor set screw |
Hi Jim=2C
What is that single screw on the top of the unit??
Subject: Re: RV10-List: MT prop Governor set screw
From: lessdragprod(at)aol.com
Date: Sun=2C 5 Dec 2010 21:20:56 -0500
Don't remove the governor arm!!!!!!!!!
Cut the safety wire on the six screws behjnd the governor arm.
LOOSEN the six screws.
Rotate the governor arm and stop assembly to the position you want.
Tighten the six screws.
Safety wire the six screws.
Jim Ayers
Less Drag Products=2C Inc.
An MT Propeller distributor
-----Original Message-----
From: John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com>
Sent: Sun=2C Dec 5=2C 2010 6:09 pm
Subject: RV10-List: MT prop Governor set screw
ON the top of the MT governor is a set screw which allow the servo arm to b
e reoriented to the correct angle per different installations.
Seing that MT is a German company=2C I thought that the set screw was a met
ric allen wrench. I appears that non of the metric allen wrenches I purchas
ed are of the correct size. Also=2C by chance I thought that it might be a
star drive and it isn't that either=2C at least not in standard sizes.
Does anyone know what tool will losen this set screw and is the set screw s
tandard clockwise rotation for tightening and counterclockwise for loosenin
g.??
Thanks=2C
John
_blank>www.aeroelectric.com
/" target=_blank>www.buildersbooks.com
=_blank>www.homebuilthelp.com
blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
get=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
p://forums.matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: MT prop Governor set screw |
| From: | Jim Ayers <lessdragprod(at)aol.com> |
I believe you are asking about a plug in the top of the governor unit. A f
lush fitting requiring an allen wrench to remove?
A fitting can be installed at this location to attach an accumulator to the
inlet side of the governor.
During zero "G" maneuvers, prolonged vertical maneuvers, or whenever oil pr
essure is lost, the accumulator will provide the required inlet pressure to
the governor so the propeller functions properly (for perhaps 10 seconds.)
.
Jim Ayers
-----Original Message-----
From: John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com>
Sent: Sun, Dec 5, 2010 6:41 pm
Subject: RE: RV10-List: MT prop Governor set screw
Hi Jim,
What is that single screw on the top of the unit??
Subject: Re: RV10-List: MT prop Governor set screw
From: lessdragprod(at)aol.com
Date: Sun, 5 Dec 2010 21:20:56 -0500
Don't remove the governor arm!!!!!!!!!
Cut the safety wire on the six screws behjnd the governor arm.
LOOSEN the six screws.
Rotate the governor arm and stop assembly to the position you want.
Tighten the six screws.
Safety wire the six screws.
Jim Ayers
Less Drag Products, Inc.
An MT Propeller distributor
-----Original Message-----
From: John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com>
Sent: Sun, Dec 5, 2010 6:09 pm
Subject: RV10-List: MT prop Governor set screw
ON the top of the MT governor is a set screw which allow the servo arm to b
e reoriented to the correct angle per different installations.
Seing that MT is a German company, I thought that the set screw was a metri
c allen wrench. I appears that non of the metric allen wrenches I purchased
are of the correct size. Also, by chance I thought that it might be a star
drive and it isn't that either, at least not in standard sizes.
Does anyone know what tool will losen this set screw and is the set screw s
tandard clockwise rotation for tightening and counterclockwise for loosenin
g.??
Thanks,
John
_blank>www.aeroelectric.com
" target=_blank>www.buildersbooks.com
_blank>www.homebuilthelp.com
lank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
et=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
://forums.matronics.com
_blank">www.aeroelectric.com
target="_blank">www.buildersbooks.com
"_blank">www.homebuilthelp.com
"_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
rget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
ttp://forums.matronics.com
-
-= -- Please Support Your Lists This Month --
-= (And Get Some AWESOME FREE Gifts!)
-
-= November is the Annual List Fund Raiser. Click on
-= the Contribution link below to find out more about
-= this year's Terrific Free Incentive Gifts provided
-= by:
-
-= * AeroElectric www.aeroelectric.com
-= * The Builder's Bookstore www.buildersbooks.com
-= * HomebuiltHELP www.homebuilthelp.com
-
-= List Contribution Web Site:
-
-= --> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
-
-= Thank you for your generous support!
-
-= -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
-
-========================
-= - The RV10-List Email Forum -
-= Use the Matronics List Features Navigator to browse
-= the many List utilities such as List Un/Subscription,
-= Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ,
-= Photoshare, and much much more:
-
-= --> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
-
-========================
-= - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -
-= Same great content also available via the Web Forums!
-
-= --> http://forums.matronics.com
-
-========================
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: MT prop Governor set screw |
| From: | Jim Ayers <lessdragprod(at)aol.com> |
Hi John,
I should have mention that the plug is a standard pipe thread plug, and not
metric. A standard AN fitting is used to go from the pipe thread to a fla
re tube end.
Unless you are installing an accumulator, there shouldn't be any need to re
move this plug.
Jim Ayers
-----Original Message-----
From: John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com>
Sent: Sun, Dec 5, 2010 6:41 pm
Subject: RE: RV10-List: MT prop Governor set screw
Hi Jim,
What is that single screw on the top of the unit??
Subject: Re: RV10-List: MT prop Governor set screw
From: lessdragprod(at)aol.com
Date: Sun, 5 Dec 2010 21:20:56 -0500
Don't remove the governor arm!!!!!!!!!
Cut the safety wire on the six screws behjnd the governor arm.
LOOSEN the six screws.
Rotate the governor arm and stop assembly to the position you want.
Tighten the six screws.
Safety wire the six screws.
Jim Ayers
Less Drag Products, Inc.
An MT Propeller distributor
-----Original Message-----
From: John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com>
Sent: Sun, Dec 5, 2010 6:09 pm
Subject: RV10-List: MT prop Governor set screw
ON the top of the MT governor is a set screw which allow the servo arm to b
e reoriented to the correct angle per different installations.
Seing that MT is a German company, I thought that the set screw was a metri
c allen wrench. I appears that non of the metric allen wrenches I purchased
are of the correct size. Also, by chance I thought that it might be a star
drive and it isn't that either, at least not in standard sizes.
Does anyone know what tool will losen this set screw and is the set screw s
tandard clockwise rotation for tightening and counterclockwise for loosenin
g.??
Thanks,
John
_blank>www.aeroelectric.com
" target=_blank>www.buildersbooks.com
_blank>www.homebuilthelp.com
lank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
et=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
://forums.matronics.com
_blank">www.aeroelectric.com
target="_blank">www.buildersbooks.com
"_blank">www.homebuilthelp.com
"_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
rget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
ttp://forums.matronics.com
-
-= -- Please Support Your Lists This Month --
-= (And Get Some AWESOME FREE Gifts!)
-
-= November is the Annual List Fund Raiser. Click on
-= the Contribution link below to find out more about
-= this year's Terrific Free Incentive Gifts provided
-= by:
-
-= * AeroElectric www.aeroelectric.com
-= * The Builder's Bookstore www.buildersbooks.com
-= * HomebuiltHELP www.homebuilthelp.com
-
-= List Contribution Web Site:
-
-= --> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
-
-= Thank you for your generous support!
-
-= -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
-
-========================
-= - The RV10-List Email Forum -
-= Use the Matronics List Features Navigator to browse
-= the many List utilities such as List Un/Subscription,
-= Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ,
-= Photoshare, and much much more:
-
-= --> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
-
-========================
-= - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -
-= Same great content also available via the Web Forums!
-
-= --> http://forums.matronics.com
-
-========================
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: MT prop Governor set screw |
| From: | pilotdds <pilotdds(at)aol.com> |
what happens if the set screws are removed and the arm is removed and repla
ced.
-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Ayers <lessdragprod(at)aol.com>
Sent: Sun, Dec 5, 2010 6:24 pm
Subject: Re: RV10-List: MT prop Governor set screw
Don't remove the governor arm!!!!!!!!!
Cut the safety wire on the six screws behjnd the governor arm.
LOOSEN the six screws.
Rotate the governor arm and stop assembly to the position you want.
Tighten the six screws.
Safety wire the six screws.
Jim Ayers
Less Drag Products, Inc.
An MT Propeller distributor
-----Original Message-----
From: John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com>
Sent: Sun, Dec 5, 2010 6:09 pm
Subject: RV10-List: MT prop Governor set screw
ON the top of the MT governor is a set screw which allow the servo arm to b
e reoriented to the correct angle per different installations.
Seing that MT is a German company, I thought that the set screw was a metri
c allen wrench. I appears that non of the metric allen wrenches I purchased
are of the correct size. Also, by chance I thought that it might be a star
drive and it isn't that either, at least not in standard sizes.
Does anyone know what tool will losen this set screw and is the set screw s
tandard clockwise rotation for tightening and counterclockwise for loosenin
g.??
Thanks,
John
_blank>www.aeroelectric.com
" target=_blank>www.buildersbooks.com
_blank>www.homebuilthelp.com
lank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
et=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
://forums.matronics.com
-
-= -- Please Support Your Lists This Month --
-= (And Get Some AWESOME FREE Gifts!)
-
-= November is the Annual List Fund Raiser. Click on
-= the Contribution link below to find out more about
-= this year's Terrific Free Incentive Gifts provided
-= by:
-
-= * AeroElectric www.aeroelectric.com
-= * The Builder's Bookstore www.buildersbooks.com
-= * HomebuiltHELP www.homebuilthelp.com
-
-= List Contribution Web Site:
-
-= --> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
-
-= Thank you for your generous support!
-
-= -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
-
-========================
-= - The RV10-List Email Forum -
-= Use the Matronics List Features Navigator to browse
-= the many List utilities such as List Un/Subscription,
-= Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ,
-= Photoshare, and much much more:
-
-= --> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
-
-========================
-= - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -
-= Same great content also available via the Web Forums!
-
-= --> http://forums.matronics.com
-
-========================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | MT prop Governor set screw |
Thanks Jim.
I will not need to do anything with this plug=2C I just would like to know
what it is for.
I a three to four months hopefully I'll have the plane at Camarillo and I'l
l have you come over and torque my propellor bolts.
Thanks for your help
Subject: Re: RV10-List: MT prop Governor set screw
From: lessdragprod(at)aol.com
Date: Sun=2C 5 Dec 2010 23:28:12 -0500
Hi John=2C
I should have mention that the plug is a standard pipe thread plug=2C and n
ot metric. A standard AN fitting is used to go from the pipe thread to a f
lare tube end.
Unless you are installing an accumulator=2C there shouldn't be any need to
remove this plug.
Jim Ayers
-----Original Message-----
From: John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com>
Sent: Sun=2C Dec 5=2C 2010 6:41 pm
Subject: RE: RV10-List: MT prop Governor set screw
Hi Jim=2C
What is that single screw on the top of the unit??
Subject: Re: RV10-List: MT prop Governor set screw
From: lessdragprod(at)aol.com
Date: Sun=2C 5 Dec 2010 21:20:56 -0500
Don't remove the governor arm!!!!!!!!!
Cut the safety wire on the six screws behjnd the governor arm.
LOOSEN the six screws.
Rotate the governor arm and stop assembly to the position you want.
Tighten the six screws.
Safety wire the six screws.
Jim Ayers
Less Drag Products=2C Inc.
An MT Propeller distributor
-----Original Message-----
From: John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com>
Sent: Sun=2C Dec 5=2C 2010 6:09 pm
Subject: RV10-List: MT prop Governor set screw
ON the top of the MT governor is a set screw which allow the servo arm to b
e reoriented to the correct angle per different installations.
Seing that MT is a German company=2C I thought that the set screw was a met
ric allen wrench. I appears that non of the metric allen wrenches I purchas
ed are of the correct size. Also=2C by chance I thought that it might be a
star drive and it isn't that either=2C at least not in standard sizes.
Does anyone know what tool will losen this set screw and is the set screw s
tandard clockwise rotation for tightening and counterclockwise for loosenin
g.??
Thanks=2C
John
_blank>www.aeroelectric.com
/" target=_blank>www.buildersbooks.com
=_blank>www.homebuilthelp.com
blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
get=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
p://forums.matronics.com
_blank">www.aeroelectric.com
" target="_blank">www.buildersbooks.com
="_blank">www.homebuilthelp.com
="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
http://forums.matronics.com
_blank>www.aeroelectric.com
/" target=_blank>www.buildersbooks.com
=_blank>www.homebuilthelp.com
blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
get=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
p://forums.matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: MT prop Governor set screw |
| From: | Jim Ayers <lessdragprod(at)aol.com> |
If the arm is removed and replaced in exactly the same orientation, nothing
.
But if you were to do that, why take it apart in the first place.
MT Propeller says it is a "bad thing" to just change the location of the go
vernor arm on the splined shaft.
Of course, MT Propeller and MT Propeller USA do this themselves when they s
et up the governor. But they each have a $50,000 governor flow bench to se
t the governor properly.
BTW, your MT Governor can be shipped to MT Propeller USA to be set properly
for the IO-540 engine you have.
Van's Aircraft sells new Lycomng engines which are wide deck IO-540 engines
with a 0.947:1 gear ratio to drive the governor.
Van's aircraft sells new MT governors set for the narrow deck IO-540 engine
which has a 0.895:1 gear ratio.
So the new MT governor on the new Lycoming IO-540 engine will only allow ab
out 2550 RPM maximum.
MT Propeller USA can set up you new MT governor from Van's Aircraft so it w
ill be very close to 2700 RPM maximum.
Please remember that the propeller low pitch stop should limit the engine t
o between 2600 and 2650 RPM on a full throttle static runup.
Changing the governor setting should not change the full throttle static RP
M if the low pitch propeller.stop is set properly.
Jim Ayers
-----Original Message-----
From: pilotdds <pilotdds(at)aol.com>
Sent: Sun, Dec 5, 2010 9:23 pm
Subject: Re: RV10-List: MT prop Governor set screw
what happens if the set screws are removed and the arm is removed and repla
ced.
-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Ayers <lessdragprod(at)aol.com>
Sent: Sun, Dec 5, 2010 6:24 pm
Subject: Re: RV10-List: MT prop Governor set screw
Don't remove the governor arm!!!!!!!!!
Cut the safety wire on the six screws behjnd the governor arm.
LOOSEN the six screws.
Rotate the governor arm and stop assembly to the position you want.
Tighten the six screws.
Safety wire the six screws.
Jim Ayers
Less Drag Products, Inc.
An MT Propeller distributor
-----Original Message-----
From: John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com>
Sent: Sun, Dec 5, 2010 6:09 pm
Subject: RV10-List: MT prop Governor set screw
ON the top of the MT governor is a set screw which allow the servo arm to b
e reoriented to the correct angle per different installations.
Seing that MT is a German company, I thought that the set screw was a metri
c allen wrench. I appears that non of the metric allen wrenches I purchased
are of the correct size. Also, by chance I thought that it might be a star
drive and it isn't that either, at least not in standard sizes.
Does anyone know what tool will losen this set screw and is the set screw s
tandard clockwise rotation for tightening and counterclockwise for loosenin
g.??
Thanks,
John
_blank>www.aeroelectric.com
" target=_blank>www.buildersbooks.com
_blank>www.homebuilthelp.com
lank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
et=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
://forums.matronics.com
_blank>www.aeroelectric.com
" target=_blank>www.buildersbooks.com
_blank>www.homebuilthelp.com
lank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
et=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
://forums.matronics.com
November 24, 2010 - December 06, 2010
RV10-Archive.digest.vol-hi