RV7-Archive.digest.vol-ao

April 26, 2007 - August 08, 2007



      Now the performance. Another 7 is based at my airport with the same 
      engine. His weighs probably 50lbs less. He has the Hartzell BA prop. At 
      the same power settings my plane will run away from his. 
      
      I had the prop dynamically balanced a couple of weeks ago and the 
      balancer got it to 0.00. He said he has never got one perfect. He also  
      noted the blades track better than  anything he has seen.
      
      Another performance story. Robbie Attaway, (Attawayair.com) has a 6 with 
      considerably worked ECI IO 360 with the ECI cold air sump and their FI 
      system. He initially had a Hartzel BA on it. He wanted more speed and 
      spent ton of money on an  Aerocomposites prop. He did not get the 
      performance he thought he would couple with a couple of structural 
      issues so he returned it and ordered another Hartzel. The Hartzel lead 
      time was 4-5 months. 
      
      One of my neighbors has a WW 200RV for his plane as was not going to be 
      using for a while. Robbie put it on his plane and using his words, "the 
      airplane came to life." He said the plane is considerably faster and 
      smoother. After only a few hours, he ordered a WW 200RV. Within a few 
      weeks he had the prop and couldn't be happier.
      
      Many will continue to go with the Hartzel because it seems like "the 
      standard." If you want a superior prop in performance and smoothness 
      consider the WW. The company is great to work with. There availability 
      and service is excellent. This is a big company that isn't going 
      anywhere. Give them a look.
      
      Robbie will be happy to talk to you about his experiences. He can be 
      contacted through his web site, www.attawayair.com
      
      Darwin N.Barrie
      Chandler AZ
      RV7 N717EE
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com>
Subject: Re: Flap Bracket Question
Date: Apr 26, 2007
What did I do to fix that? I built an RV-7! 8^) You're talkin' about an RV-9 wing on the RV-7 list. Give Van's a call and I suspect they'll authorize use of a blind rivet there (I won't pretend I know which type they'll recommend). )_( Dan ----- Original Message ----- From: Smitty To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Thursday, April 26, 2007 3:12 AM Subject: RV7-List: Flap Bracket Question I'm trying to rivet the top angle piece on to the flap bracket and rib and my offset rivet set and rivet gun won't fit between the ribs for the center flap bracket. What did you guys do? Here's a pic: http://smittysrv.com/images/flapbracket.jpg Thanks! Smitty http://SmittysRV.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "J. Brunke" <jdoody727(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: RV-7 engine/prop options
Date: Apr 26, 2007
Darwin, Thanks for the input. Do you know of anyone who has put an extension on the Whirlwind for use with a James Cowling? John Brunke ----- Original Message ----- From: Darwin N. Barrie To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Thursday, April 26, 2007 10:09 AM Subject: Re: RV7-List: RV-7 engine/prop options I haven't read all of the posts on this but I wanted to comment on this thread. This is my experience with the good and bad and 100% honest. I have a RV7 with ECI IO 360, dual Pmag set up with Precision FI system. Nothing hopped up or fancy on the engine. My prop is the Whirlwind 200RV. I purchased mine from Whirlwind before they were sold to Titan aircraft. As has been noted, the 200 RV was designed for RV airframe. Specifically I cannot say what type of testing or research was done, but from the performance it clearly works. On initial flights I was getting significant surging with the prop. If the throttle was applied slowly there was no issues. If applied quickly there was a lag then the prop would grab. The best analogy I can give you, it was like driving a manual transmission car and after getting rolling you just suddenly let out the last little bit of clutch to get a little jolt. At 55 hours and on my last flight before breaking down for paint, a seal went out in the hub. I initially got a little oil on the windshield. After landing and shutting down I noticed oil pouring out of the front of the hub. I took the prop off and boxed it and sent to the new WW. Greg called me and let me know a seal was apparently installed improperly during the hub manufacture. He said the seal was most likely causing the surging. No coverups but an honest evaluation of the problem and the fix. The other known problem with the WW has been with the spinner backplate brackets. I to has this problem but this to was taken care of with minimal discomfort and down time. Now the performance. Another 7 is based at my airport with the same engine. His weighs probably 50lbs less. He has the Hartzell BA prop. At the same power settings my plane will run away from his. I had the prop dynamically balanced a couple of weeks ago and the balancer got it to 0.00. He said he has never got one perfect. He also noted the blades track better than anything he has seen. Another performance story. Robbie Attaway, (Attawayair.com) has a 6 with considerably worked ECI IO 360 with the ECI cold air sump and their FI system. He initially had a Hartzel BA on it. He wanted more speed and spent ton of money on an Aerocomposites prop. He did not get the performance he thought he would couple with a couple of structural issues so he returned it and ordered another Hartzel. The Hartzel lead time was 4-5 months. One of my neighbors has a WW 200RV for his plane as was not going to be using for a while. Robbie put it on his plane and using his words, "the airplane came to life." He said the plane is considerably faster and smoother. After only a few hours, he ordered a WW 200RV. Within a few weeks he had the prop and couldn't be happier. Many will continue to go with the Hartzel because it seems like "the standard." If you want a superior prop in performance and smoothness consider the WW. The company is great to work with. There availability and service is excellent. This is a big company that isn't going anywhere. Give them a look. Robbie will be happy to talk to you about his experiences. He can be contacted through his web site, www.attawayair.com Darwin N.Barrie Chandler AZ RV7 N717EE ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Darwin N. Barrie" <ktlkrn(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: RV-7 engine/prop options
Date: Apr 27, 2007
Not that I know of but my neighbor is going to use the WW and the SJ cowl. Give Greg call at WW and talk to him. They are great people to work with. Darwin N. Barrie Chandler AZ RV7 N717EE ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Flap Bracket Question
From: "smittysrv" <smitty(at)smittysrv.com>
Date: Apr 27, 2007
Oopsies. I posted my RV-9 question on the RV-7 list. My bad. That's what I get for reading email at 4 in the morning. BYW, I ordered an short offset 1/8" rivet set from Avery's to get to the problem rivet and received it the next day. Good folks, them Avery's. -------- Smittys RV-9A Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=109603#109603 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Don Hall" <dhall(at)donka.net>
Subject: cockpit lighting
Date: Apr 29, 2007
Doing some electrical planning. For those currently active in the rv flying community, what interior lighting options work best or seem common? Here's what I'm thinking so far. - Baggage area light. on/off switch in baggage area, not in panel. So just a line back to a breaker for planning purposes. - I'm figuring no map lighting, I'll just rely on portable lighting. - light to illuminate the cockpit (maybe below the panel) just to help when getting in/out of the plane at night or to make it easier to find something dropped. For this I suppose I'd add a switch on the panel itself. Thanks, ****************************************** Don Hall N517DG (registered) rv7 fuselage http://rv7.donka.net ****************************************** ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com>
Subject: Re: cockpit lighting
Date: Apr 28, 2007
How about just using a compact LED flashlight? ;-) Playing devil's advocate. Tally up your last 24 months' worth of night flight hours & honestly assess your needs. LED lights weigh next to nothing but a few wires here, a few wires there, a few switches here, a few switches there, it does add up. Imho KISS & light. Speaking for myself, 1258 hours in my RV-7, only 61 hours at night. Less than 5%. And this is coming from a guy who used to fly 25-30% at night. I just don't do it nearly as much anymore. Again, just speaking for myself, but it's good to be honest about your own "night needs." So much of what we pile into these airplanes is superfluous. I know more people who say, "I woulda left that out," than I do people who say, "I wish I put such-and-such in." An example would be my buddy who is selling an RV-6 with 3 landing lights, full interior lighting, etc. His plane is HEAVY. Not the best climber. And that 2% he flies at night, boy he loves that lighting... ;-) )_( Dan RV-7 N714D www.rvproject.com / www.weathermeister.com ----- Original Message ----- From: Don Hall To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Saturday, April 28, 2007 10:33 PM Subject: RV7-List: cockpit lighting Doing some electrical planning. For those currently active in the rv flying community, what interior lighting options work best or seem common? Here's what I'm thinking so far. - Baggage area light. on/off switch in baggage area, not in panel. So just a line back to a breaker for planning purposes. - I'm figuring no map lighting, I'll just rely on portable lighting. - light to illuminate the cockpit (maybe below the panel) just to help when getting in/out of the plane at night or to make it easier to find something dropped. For this I suppose I'd add a switch on the panel itself. Thanks, ****************************************** Don Hall N517DG (registered) rv7 fuselage http://rv7.donka.net ****************************************** ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Don Hall" <dhall(at)donka.net>
Subject: cockpit lighting
Date: Apr 29, 2007
Thanks, it's always great to learn the "what I wish I had done instead" lessons before I wish I had done. I think I'm just going to leave one spot for expansion on the breakers and plan for no lighting. ****************************************** Don Hall N517DG (registered) rv7 fuselage http://rv7.donka.net ****************************************** _____ From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dan Checkoway Sent: Sunday, April 29, 2007 2:36 AM Subject: Re: RV7-List: cockpit lighting How about just using a compact LED flashlight? ;-) Playing devil's advocate. Tally up your last 24 months' worth of night flight hours & honestly assess your needs. LED lights weigh next to nothing but a few wires here, a few wires there, a few switches here, a few switches there, it does add up. Imho KISS & light. Speaking for myself, 1258 hours in my RV-7, only 61 hours at night. Less than 5%. And this is coming from a guy who used to fly 25-30% at night. I just don't do it nearly as much anymore. Again, just speaking for myself, but it's good to be honest about your own "night needs." So much of what we pile into these airplanes is superfluous. I know more people who say, "I woulda left that out," than I do people who say, "I wish I put such-and-such in." An example would be my buddy who is selling an RV-6 with 3 landing lights, full interior lighting, etc. His plane is HEAVY. Not the best climber. And that 2% he flies at night, boy he loves that lighting... ;-) )_( Dan RV-7 N714D www.rvproject.com / www.weathermeister.com ----- Original Message ----- From: Don Hall <mailto:dhall(at)donka.net> Sent: Saturday, April 28, 2007 10:33 PM Subject: RV7-List: cockpit lighting Doing some electrical planning. For those currently active in the rv flying community, what interior lighting options work best or seem common? Here's what I'm thinking so far. - Baggage area light. on/off switch in baggage area, not in panel. So just a line back to a breaker for planning purposes. - I'm figuring no map lighting, I'll just rely on portable lighting. - light to illuminate the cockpit (maybe below the panel) just to help when getting in/out of the plane at night or to make it easier to find something dropped. For this I suppose I'd add a switch on the panel itself. Thanks, ****************************************** Don Hall N517DG (registered) rv7 fuselage http://rv7.donka.net ****************************************** href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV7-List">http://www.matronics.com/ Navigator?RV7-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry L. Tompkins, P.E." <tompkinsl(at)integra.net>
Subject: Continental Engine?
Date: Apr 29, 2007
Several certificated manufacturers are using the 360 Continental instead of a Lycoming (except Cessna who went the other way). I am curious if anyone has considered and/or installed a Continental 360 in an RV-7. I don't have a good feel for the overall size of the two engines Is the 6 cylinder Continental any smoother than a 90 cubic inch/cylinder Lycoming? I read a lot of discussion about crank/propeller harmonics. All these engines are run pretty slowly compared to auto engines. It seems like power pulses ought to be measurably distinct. Consequently, I especially wonder about the effect on durablility and reliablity when modifications to raise horsepower are performed. They all have to raise BMEP, which in turn has to increase crank rap, increase the loading on the cylinder mounting flange and therefore the engine case, etc. etc.. A three main bearing crank and 6 lobe camshaft may have been great design choices in 1935, but probably not the way someone would design an engine today. I suppose that the bottom line is that the reliablitiy record is very good so I should just plug the Lycoming in, take good care of it and let it take good care of me. Larry Tompkins ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "J. Brunke" <jdoody727(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Aileron trim
Date: Apr 29, 2007
Dear Listers, I'll add to the questions to people currently flying their airplanes. Do you have aileron trim installed in your aircraft? If so, have you installed the electric or the manual type and how well do they work. I had not planned on installing aileron trim, till a local builder strongly suggested I put it in. I had a -6 for three years that did not have it and I never really found it to be a problem. Just curious what others have encountered. Thanks in advance, John Brunke St. Charles, IL RV-7, tip-up, almost ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Mark Taylor <mtaylo17(at)msn.com>
Subject: Aileron trim
Date: Apr 29, 2007
I have it in my -7 and probably wouldn't bother with it if I did another. S ure it does work OK, but it's never really too far out of trim anyway. Mark. www.4sierratango.com From: jdoody727(at)comcast.netTo: rv7-list(at)matronics.comSubject: RV7-List: Ail eron trimDate: Sun, 29 Apr 2007 21:00:19 -0500 Dear Listers, I'll add to the questions to people currently flying their airplanes. Do you have aileron trim installed in your aircraft? If so, have you installed the electric or the manual type and how well do t hey work. I had not planned on installing aileron trim, till a local builder strongly suggested I put it in. I had a -6 for three years that did not have it and I never really found it to be a problem. Just curious what others have en countered. Thanks in advance, John Brunke St. Charles, IL RV-7, tip-up, almost ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "cliff" <exodus(at)gds.co.za>
Subject: Re: Aileron trim
Date: Apr 30, 2007
I use my aileron trim all the time. It is the manual trim and works like a dream. Cliff ----- Original Message ----- From: J. Brunke To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Monday, April 30, 2007 4:00 AM Subject: RV7-List: Aileron trim Dear Listers, I'll add to the questions to people currently flying their airplanes. Do you have aileron trim installed in your aircraft? If so, have you installed the electric or the manual type and how well do they work. I had not planned on installing aileron trim, till a local builder strongly suggested I put it in. I had a -6 for three years that did not have it and I never really found it to be a problem. Just curious what others have encountered. Thanks in advance, John Brunke St. Charles, IL RV-7, tip-up, almost ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com>
Subject: Re: Aileron trim
Date: Apr 30, 2007
I use my electric aileron trim all the time. I keep all my crap between the seats. Not having a knob there is nice imho. However you do it you'll love it... )_( Dan RV-7 N714D (1260) www.rvproject.com ----- Original Message ----- From: cliff To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Monday, April 30, 2007 1:58 AM Subject: Re: RV7-List: Aileron trim I use my aileron trim all the time. It is the manual trim and works like a dream. Cliff ----- Original Message ----- From: J. Brunke To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Monday, April 30, 2007 4:00 AM Subject: RV7-List: Aileron trim Dear Listers, I'll add to the questions to people currently flying their airplanes. Do you have aileron trim installed in your aircraft? If so, have you installed the electric or the manual type and how well do they work. I had not planned on installing aileron trim, till a local builder strongly suggested I put it in. I had a -6 for three years that did not have it and I never really found it to be a problem. Just curious what others have encountered. Thanks in advance, John Brunke St. Charles, IL RV-7, tip-up, almost href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV7-List">http://www.matronics .com/Navigator?RV7-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Terry Wilson" <terry.paradise(at)bigpond.com>
Subject: -reply from downunder
Date: May 01, 2007
Hi Larry, I'm a ' 7 builder in South Australia. Ive been interested in your arguments about the big thumper aero engines of yesteryear. I suspect you may be the type of person who may consider the likes of a modern Subaru. I certainly am, and am following up a couple of builders in Melbourne Aust installing Eggenfellner motors. Australian aviation people are in some ways very conservative in only considering the 'traditional' options, so the likes of Subaru in RV size planes is not seen so much over here. I know the cars we drive now have motors that are dramatically more reliable and last more than twice as long as the motors in our cars from the seventies. Why oh why cant our aircraft gurus suggest and accept more up-to-date engines as well. Ive only done my empenage and ready to order wings, but I'm considering engine ideas at this stage as well. My concern with Subaru (read Egg) is back-up etc being such a long distance from the source. I suppose a benefit is that the 2.5 and H6 motors are all over the world and their technology is supported, as in racing circles. The other thing is that Subaru can run with any juice, has lots of engine management options, and tech stuff to run well and last a long time. I'm interested in any thoughts or experiences you have on these things. I dont know much about Continental or Lycoming, except every time I see them in gen aviation they look old tech, sound old tech, use oil by the bucket because of the large tolerances of big air-cooled donks, and seem to have as many problems as any other engines often due to the large stresses of the big slow motors. But if I have to use one to get my plane in the air, I guess Ill just have to do it. Terry Wilson Burra, South Australia. ----- Original Message ----- From: Larry L. Tompkins, P.E. To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Monday, April 30, 2007 11:26 AM Subject: RV7-List: Continental Engine? Several certificated manufacturers are using the 360 Continental instead of a Lycoming (except Cessna who went the other way). I am curious if anyone has considered and/or installed a Continental 360 in an RV-7. I don't have a good feel for the overall size of the two engines Is the 6 cylinder Continental any smoother than a 90 cubic inch/cylinder Lycoming? I read a lot of discussion about crank/propeller harmonics. All these engines are run pretty slowly compared to auto engines. It seems like power pulses ought to be measurably distinct. Consequently, I especially wonder about the effect on durablility and reliablity when modifications to raise horsepower are performed. They all have to raise BMEP, which in turn has to increase crank rap, increase the loading on the cylinder mounting flange and therefore the engine case, etc. etc.. A three main bearing crank and 6 lobe camshaft may have been great design choices in 1935, but probably not the way someone would design an engine today. I suppose that the bottom line is that the reliablitiy record is very good so I should just plug the Lycoming in, take good care of it and let it take good care of me. Larry Tompkins ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 01, 2007
From: "Michael T. Ice" <aurbo(at)ak.net>
Subject: Re: -reply from downunder
Terry, Subaru motors work great, as do Mazda rotary, and some others. Try the archives on this web site for more information than you can read in a day. Also try the Vans Air Force web site at www.vansairforce.net/. I suspect most folks go Lycoming due to the vast knowledge pool and know reliability. Good Luck with what ever route you choose and have fun. Mike Ice Anchorage, Alaska RV-9, canopy done (finally) motor mount next then on the engine (Lycoming O-320 E3D) ----- Original Message ----- From: Terry Wilson To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Tuesday, May 01, 2007 3:28 AM Subject: RV7-List: -reply from downunder Hi Larry, I'm a ' 7 builder in South Australia. Ive been interested in your arguments about the big thumper aero engines of yesteryear. I suspect you may be the type of person who may consider the likes of a modern Subaru. I certainly am, and am following up a couple of builders in Melbourne Aust installing Eggenfellner motors. Australian aviation people are in some ways very conservative in only considering the 'traditional' options, so the likes of Subaru in RV size planes is not seen so much over here. I know the cars we drive now have motors that are dramatically more reliable and last more than twice as long as the motors in our cars from the seventies. Why oh why cant our aircraft gurus suggest and accept more up-to-date engines as well. Ive only done my empenage and ready to order wings, but I'm considering engine ideas at this stage as well. My concern with Subaru (read Egg) is back-up etc being such a long distance from the source. I suppose a benefit is that the 2.5 and H6 motors are all over the world and their technology is supported, as in racing circles. The other thing is that Subaru can run with any juice, has lots of engine management options, and tech stuff to run well and last a long time. I'm interested in any thoughts or experiences you have on these things. I dont know much about Continental or Lycoming, except every time I see them in gen aviation they look old tech, sound old tech, use oil by the bucket because of the large tolerances of big air-cooled donks, and seem to have as many problems as any other engines often due to the large stresses of the big slow motors. But if I have to use one to get my plane in the air, I guess Ill just have to do it. Terry Wilson Burra, South Australia. ----- Original Message ----- From: Larry L. Tompkins, P.E. To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Monday, April 30, 2007 11:26 AM Subject: RV7-List: Continental Engine? Several certificated manufacturers are using the 360 Continental instead of a Lycoming (except Cessna who went the other way). I am curious if anyone has considered and/or installed a Continental 360 in an RV-7. I don't have a good feel for the overall size of the two engines Is the 6 cylinder Continental any smoother than a 90 cubic inch/cylinder Lycoming? I read a lot of discussion about crank/propeller harmonics. All these engines are run pretty slowly compared to auto engines. It seems like power pulses ought to be measurably distinct. Consequently, I especially wonder about the effect on durablility and reliablity when modifications to raise horsepower are performed. They all have to raise BMEP, which in turn has to increase crank rap, increase the loading on the cylinder mounting flange and therefore the engine case, etc. etc.. A three main bearing crank and 6 lobe camshaft may have been great design choices in 1935, but probably not the way someone would design an engine today. I suppose that the bottom line is that the reliablitiy record is very good so I should just plug the Lycoming in, take good care of it and let it take good care of me. Larry Tompkins href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV7-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV7-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: -reply from downunder
Date: May 01, 2007
From: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde(at)hp.com>
Terry, I used to think the same way you did...I.e Lycomings are outdated, somehow inefficient and use lots of oil. I then used a supposedly top notch Subaru Ea81 conversion which turned out to be a bit of a disaster to be honest. I then realised that converting a car engine for aviation use is not easy, there are many gotchas and sometimes it takes many years for all the failure modes to become apparent. Remember every time you add a component, you add something that can fail. Jan Eggenfelner has probably done the best job so far in converting a car engine, but have all the failure modes been taken into account and reasonable decisions made about redcing those risks?..I honestly don't know, partly because there are many hundreds if thousands of hours on Lycosauruses and anly a few on H4's and h6's...Yes I know there are lots of them in cars...But airplanes are different...I been there! I'm afraid also that your thinking negatively about the old clunkers is pretty far off base today, at least with a modern experimental clone of say a LYC. Sure the certified versions still have some issues....Mags that wear out, vacuum pumps?...Gimme a break!...But the basic motor itself is far from being the piece of junk you think it might be. If you put a mechanical fuel injection unit on a clone you will be hard pressed to find a motor that goes as fast burning so little fuel and weighs less. Note most of the Egg airplanes come out relatively heavy compared to their old clunker comrades. Can you run an Egg lean of peak? (LOP)...I don't know that answer to that, but there is 1.5 Gallons per hour in cruise saving right there. As to using oil, simply not true, sure any motor can leak but my clone doesn't and it uses about a quart in 12 hours...Is that a big deal?...don't think so. The clones can also run premium mogas (you would need to order a low compression version if you want to run regular) quite happily. You can put electronic ignition systems on them too. If you read john Deakin's articles you will find that these motors are remarkably efficient...If its not 'high tech' enough for you then put a FADEC system on it which makes it easier to get the mixture right. You have to remember that car engines have to be efficient at a number of different driving conditions...Airplane engines really only do one thing...you wind 'em up to cruise power and leave 'em there. A much simpler operating regime, thus its a much simpler engine with less things to go wrong. Cooling drag...Jury is still out on that one but the strong suspicion is there is more cooling drag with a water cooled motor, thus making it slower for the same fuel burn....But as I said the jury is still out on that one. if it is true then it will be worse on a fast airplane than a slow one. Really the only clear advantage of a car engine is the cost of the parts (and thus rebuild costs) are much less...of course no one has put a lot of hours on the reduction gearbox either so its not clear to me how many of those will be needed during the typical 2000 hours. Anyway, just to point out that the old dynosaur motors are that way for a very good reason...i.e they are designed to do exactly what they do very well, more highly adapted for their environment rather than woefully inadequate and outdated. Cheers Frank ________________________________ From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Terry Wilson Sent: Tuesday, May 01, 2007 4:29 AM Subject: RV7-List: -reply from downunder Hi Larry, I'm a ' 7 builder in South Australia. Ive been interested in your arguments about the big thumper aero engines of yesteryear. I suspect you may be the type of person who may consider the likes of a modern Subaru. I certainly am, and am following up a couple of builders in Melbourne Aust installing Eggenfellner motors. Australian aviation people are in some ways very conservative in only considering the 'traditional' options, so the likes of Subaru in RV size planes is not seen so much over here. I know the cars we drive now have motors that are dramatically more reliable and last more than twice as long as the motors in our cars from the seventies. Why oh why cant our aircraft gurus suggest and accept more up-to-date engines as well. Ive only done my empenage and ready to order wings, but I'm considering engine ideas at this stage as well. My concern with Subaru (read Egg) is back-up etc being such a long distance from the source. I suppose a benefit is that the 2.5 and H6 motors are all over the world and their technology is supported, as in racing circles. The other thing is that Subaru can run with any juice, has lots of engine management options, and tech stuff to run well and last a long time. I'm interested in any thoughts or experiences you have on these things. I dont know much about Continental or Lycoming, except every time I see them in gen aviation they look old tech, sound old tech, use oil by the bucket because of the large tolerances of big air-cooled donks, and seem to have as many problems as any other engines often due to the large stresses of the big slow motors. But if I have to use one to get my plane in the air, I guess Ill just have to do it. Terry Wilson Burra, South Australia. ----- Original Message ----- From: Larry L. Tompkins, P.E. <mailto:tompkinsl(at)integra.net> To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Monday, April 30, 2007 11:26 AM Subject: RV7-List: Continental Engine? Several certificated manufacturers are using the 360 Continental instead of a Lycoming (except Cessna who went the other way). I am curious if anyone has considered and/or installed a Continental 360 in an RV-7. I don't have a good feel for the overall size of the two engines Is the 6 cylinder Continental any smoother than a 90 cubic inch/cylinder Lycoming? I read a lot of discussion about crank/propeller harmonics. All these engines are run pretty slowly compared to auto engines. It seems like power pulses ought to be measurably distinct. Consequently, I especially wonder about the effect on durablility and reliablity when modifications to raise horsepower are performed. They all have to raise BMEP, which in turn has to increase crank rap, increase the loading on the cylinder mounting flange and therefore the engine case, etc. etc.. A three main bearing crank and 6 lobe camshaft may have been great design choices in 1935, but probably not the way someone would design an engine today. I suppose that the bottom line is that the reliablitiy record is very good so I should just plug the Lycoming in, take good care of it and let it take good care of me. Larry Tompkins href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV7-List">http://www.matronics . com/Navigator?RV7-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Mark Taylor <mtaylo17(at)msn.com>
Subject: -reply from downunder
Date: May 01, 2007
Something else about real aeroplane engines.... They will prop up the value of your plane. Everyone knows they're expensive and resale later on isn't going to hurt you anywhere near as much as an auto conversion engine in a p lane, even if it is an Eggenfelner. This is especially true if the prospect ive new owner lives miles from you and will need the annual doing by an A & P. Another issue is what if it goes wrong out in the field when you're away fr om home, all your tools and spares are in your workshop/hangar? Are you goi ng to call an A & P to help you fix it, or the Subaru dealership? Sure these are downsides, and maybe there are some pluses too. For those, I guess we'll have to rely on somebody who actually runs an auto conversion in an RV. Have you seen any builders sites with subaru's? I guess the most successful I've seen so far is Bob Paisley. http://www.protekperformance.co m/rv7/. For some people, like Brian Meyette http://brian76.mystarband.net/r v7a/RV-7Ahome.htm it's proven to be somewhat of a challenge with issues tha t he's had to overcome by pioneering such a task and I reckon it's added a considerable amount of time to his build. I feel much the same way that these air cooled engines are old tech, but li ke Frank says, you can bring it into the 20th century with FADEC or some fu el injection system. I myself chose the FADEC route, and it's quite pleasan t buzzing along at 60%-65% power burning 6.5-7 GPH. In the end, it's horses for courses... You decide what you want to do and t hen you have to live with it. When you're done, someone else has to live wi th it, which is worth bearing in mind when you make your decision. Good luck! Mark www.4sierratango.com Subject: RE: RV7-List: -reply from downunderDate: Tue, 1 May 2007 15:07:16 +0000From: frank.hinde(at)hp.comTo: rv7-list(at)matronics.com Terry, I used to think the same way you did...I.e Lycomings are outdated, somehow inefficient and use lots of oil. I then used a supposedly top notch Subaru Ea81 conversion which turned out to be a bit of a disaster to be honest. I then realised that converting a car engine for aviation use is not easy, th ere are many gotchas and sometimes it takes many years for all the failure modes to become apparent. Remember every time you add a component, you add something that can fail. Jan Eggenfelner has probably done the best job so far in converting a car engine, but have all the failure modes been taken i nto account and reasonable decisions made about redcing those risks?..I hon estly don't know, partly because there are many hundreds if thousands of ho urs on Lycosauruses and anly a few on H4's and h6's...Yes I know there are lots of them in cars...But airplanes are different...I been there! I'm afraid also that your thinking negatively about the old clunkers is pre tty far off base today, at least with a modern experimental clone of say a LYC. Sure the certified versions still have some issues....Mags that wear o ut, vacuum pumps?...Gimme a break!...But the basic motor itself is far from being the piece of junk you think it might be. If you put a mechanical fuel injection unit on a clone you will be hard pre ssed to find a motor that goes as fast burning so little fuel and weighs le ss. Note most of the Egg airplanes come out relatively heavy compared to th eir old clunker comrades. Can you run an Egg lean of peak? (LOP)...I don't know that answer to that, but there is 1.5 Gallons per hour in cruise saving right there. As to using oil, simply not true, sure any motor can leak but my clone doesn't and it uses about a quart in 12 hours...Is that a big deal?...don't think so. The clones can also run premium mogas (you would need to order a low compre ssion version if you want to run regular) quite happily. You can put electronic ignition systems on them too. If you read john Deakin's articles you will find that these motors are rema rkably efficient...If its not 'high tech' enough for you then put a FADEC s ystem on it which makes it easier to get the mixture right. You have to remember that car engines have to be efficient at a number of d ifferent driving conditions...Airplane engines really only do one thing...y ou wind 'em up to cruise power and leave 'em there. A much simpler operatin g regime, thus its a much simpler engine with less things to go wrong. Cooling drag...Jury is still out on that one but the strong suspicion is th ere is more cooling drag with a water cooled motor, thus making it slower f or the same fuel burn....But as I said the jury is still out on that one. i f it is true then it will be worse on a fast airplane than a slow one. Really the only clear advantage of a car engine is the cost of the parts (a nd thus rebuild costs) are much less...of course no one has put a lot of ho urs on the reduction gearbox either so its not clear to me how many of thos e will be needed during the typical 2000 hours. Anyway, just to point out that the old dynosaur motors are that way for a v ery good reason...i.e they are designed to do exactly what they do very wel l, more highly adapted for their environment rather than woefully inadequat e and outdated. Cheers Frank From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server@mat ronics.com] On Behalf Of Terry WilsonSent: Tuesday, May 01, 2007 4:29 AMTo: rv7-list(at)matronics.comSubject: RV7-List: -reply from downunder Hi Larry, I'm a ' 7 builder in South Australia. Ive been interested in your arguments about the big thumper aero engines of yesteryear. I suspect you may be the type of person who may consider the likes of a mod ern Subaru. I certainly am, and am following up a couple of builders in Mel bourne Aust installing Eggenfellner motors. Australian aviation people are in some ways very conservative in only considering the 'traditional' option s, so the likes of Subaru in RV size planes is not seen so much over here. I know the cars we drive now have motors that are dramatically more reliabl e and last more than twice as long as the motors in our cars from the seven ties. Why oh why cant our aircraft gurus suggest and accept more up-to-date engines as well. Ive only done my empenage and ready to order wings, but I'm considering eng ine ideas at this stage as well. My concern with Subaru (read Egg) is back- up etc being such a long distance from the source. I suppose a benefit is t hat the 2.5 and H6 motors are all over the world and their technology is su pported, as in racing circles. The other thing is that Subaru can run with any juice, has lots of engine m anagement options, and tech stuff to run well and last a long time. I'm interested in any thoughts or experiences you have on these things. I d ont know much about Continental or Lycoming, except every time I see them i n gen aviation they look old tech, sound old tech, use oil by the bucket be cause of the large tolerances of big air-cooled donks, and seem to have as many problems as any other engines often due to the large stresses of the b ig slow motors. But if I have to use one to get my plane in the air, I gues s Ill just have to do it. Terry Wilson Burra, South Australia. ----- Original Message ----- From: Larry L. Tompkins, P.E. Sent: Monday, April 30, 2007 11:26 AM Subject: RV7-List: Continental Engine? Several certificated manufacturers are using the 360 Continental instead of a Lycoming (except Cessna who went the other way). I am curious if anyone has considered and/or installed a Continental 360 in an RV-7. I don't hav e a good feel for the overall size of the two engines Is the 6 cylinder Continental any smoother than a 90 cubic inch/cylinder Ly coming? I read a lot of discussion about crank/propeller harmonics. All t hese engines are run pretty slowly compared to auto engines. It seems like power pulses ought to be measurably distinct. Consequently, I especially wonder about the effect on durablility and reliablity when modifications to raise horsepower are performed. They all have to raise BMEP, which in tu rn has to increase crank rap, increase the loading on the cylinder mounting flange and therefore the engine case, etc. etc.. A three main bearing crank and 6 lobe camshaft may have been great design c hoices in 1935, but probably not the way someone would design an engine tod ay. I suppose that the bottom line is that the reliablitiy record is very good so I should just plug the Lycoming in, take good care of it and let it take good care of me. Larry Tompkins href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV7-List">http://www.matronhref ="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV7-List">http://www.matronics.c om/Navigator?RV7-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: -reply from downunder
Date: May 01, 2007
From: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde(at)hp.com>
Indeed Mark, but I have to disaggree in that they are not old tech. The prop turns at 2700RPM...Anyway you look at it you eventually have to have a shaft that turns at the same speed as the prop...The Lyc does this by limiting engine speed, the Auto needs a gearbox...they both work the same in this regard. Aircooled vs water cooled...I agree there are engine clearance compromises in the aircooled motor but they last 2000+ hours...Water cooled we think has a significant drag penalty...and will thus burn more fuel.. A modern car engine is festooned with gadgets which all represent failure points. seems with the above in mind the Lyc is a better design for the job at hand. And so the argument goes on. Cheers Frank ________________________________ From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mark Taylor Sent: Tuesday, May 01, 2007 2:35 PM Subject: RE: RV7-List: -reply from downunder Something else about real aeroplane engines.... They will prop up the value of your plane. Everyone knows they're expensive and resale later on isn't going to hurt you anywhere near as much as an auto conversion engine in a plane, even if it is an Eggenfelner. This is especially true if the prospective new owner lives miles from you and will need the annual doing by an A & P. Another issue is what if it goes wrong out in the field when you're away from home, all your tools and spares are in your workshop/hangar? Are you going to call an A & P to help you fix it, or the Subaru dealership? Sure these are downsides, and maybe there are some pluses too. For those, I guess we'll have to rely on somebody who actually runs an auto conversion in an RV. Have you seen any builders sites with subaru's? I guess the most successful I've seen so far is Bob Paisley. http://www.protekperformance.com/rv7/. For some people, like Brian Meyette http://brian76.mystarband.net/rv7a/RV-7Ahome.htm it's proven to be somewhat of a challenge with issues that he's had to overcome by pioneering such a task and I reckon it's added a considerable amount of time to his build. I feel much the same way that these air cooled engines are old tech, but like Frank says, you can bring it into the 20th century with FADEC or some fuel injection system. I myself chose the FADEC route, and it's quite pleasant buzzing along at 60%-65% power burning 6.5-7 GPH. In the end, it's horses for courses... You decide what you want to do and then you have to live with it. When you're done, someone else has to live with it, which is worth bearing in mind when you make your decision. Good luck! Mark www.4sierratango.com ________________________________ Subject: RE: RV7-List: -reply from downunder Date: Tue, 1 May 2007 15:07:16 +0000 From: frank.hinde(at)hp.com To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com Terry, I used to think the same way you did...I.e Lycomings are outdated, somehow inefficient and use lots of oil. I then used a supposedly top notch Subaru Ea81 conversion which turned out to be a bit of a disaster to be honest. I then realised that converting a car engine for aviation use is not easy, there are many gotchas and sometimes it takes many years for all the failure modes to become apparent. Remember every time you add a component, you add something that can fail. Jan Eggenfelner has probably done the best job so far in converting a car engine, but have all the failure modes been taken into account and reasonable decisions made about redcing those risks?..I honestly don't know, partly because there are many hundreds if thousands of hours on Lycosauruses and anly a few on H4's and h6's...Yes I know there are lots of them in cars...But airplanes are different...I been there! I'm afraid also that your thinking negatively about the old clunkers is pretty far off base today, at least with a modern experimental clone of say a LYC. Sure the certified versions still have some issues....Mags that wear out, vacuum pumps?...Gimme a break!...But the basic motor itself is far from being the piece of junk you think it might be. If you put a mechanical fuel injection unit on a clone you will be hard pressed to find a motor that goes as fast burning so little fuel and weighs less. Note most of the Egg airplanes come out relatively heavy compared to their old clunker comrades. Can you run an Egg lean of peak? (LOP)...I don't know that answer to that, but there is 1.5 Gallons per hour in cruise saving right there. As to using oil, simply not true, sure any motor can leak but my clone doesn't and it uses about a quart in 12 hours...Is that a big deal?...don't think so. The clones can also run premium mogas (you would need to order a low compression version if you want to run regular) quite happily. You can put electronic ignition systems on them too. If you read john Deakin's articles you will find that these motors are remarkably efficient...If its not 'high tech' enough for you then put a FADEC system on it which makes it easier to get the mixture right. You have to remember that car engines have to be efficient at a number of different driving conditions...Airplane engines really only do one thing...you wind 'em up to cruise power and leave 'em there. A much simpler operating regime, thus its a much simpler engine with less things to go wrong. Cooling drag...Jury is still out on that one but the strong suspicion is there is more cooling drag with a water cooled motor, thus making it slower for the same fuel burn....But as I said the jury is still out on that one. if it is true then it will be worse on a fast airplane than a slow one. Really the only clear advantage of a car engine is the cost of the parts (and thus rebuild costs) are much less...of course no one has put a lot of hours on the reduction gearbox either so its not clear to me how many of those will be needed during the typical 2000 hours. Anyway, just to point out that the old dynosaur motors are that way for a very good reason...i.e they are designed to do exactly what they do very well, more highly adapted for their environment rather than woefully inadequate and outdated. Cheers Frank ________________________________ From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Terry Wilson Sent: Tuesday, May 01, 2007 4:29 AM To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com Subject: RV7-List: -reply from downunder Hi Larry, I'm a ' 7 builder in South Australia. Ive been interested in your arguments about the big thumper aero engines of yesteryear. I suspect you may be the type of person who may consider the likes of a modern Subaru. I certainly am, and am following up a couple of builders in Melbourne Aust installing Eggenfellner motors. Australian aviation people are in some ways very conservative in only considering the 'traditional' options, so the likes of Subaru in RV size planes is not seen so much over here. I know the cars we drive now have motors that are dramatically more reliable and last more than twice as long as the motors in our cars from the seventies. Why oh why cant our aircraft gurus suggest and accept more up-to-date engines as well. Ive only done my empenage and ready to order wings, but I'm considering engine ideas at this stage as well. My concern with Subaru (read Egg) is back-up etc being such a long distance from the source. I suppose a benefit is that the 2.5 and H6 motors are all over the world and their technology is supported, as in racing circles. The other thing is that Subaru can run with any juice, has lots of engine management options, and tech stuff to run well and last a long time. I'm interested in any thoughts or experiences you have on these things. I dont know much about Continental or Lycoming, except every time I see them in gen aviation they look old tech, sound old tech, use oil by the bucket because of the large tolerances of big air-cooled donks, and seem to have as many problems as any other engines often due to the large stresses of the big slow motors. But if I have to use one to get my plane in the air, I guess Ill just have to do it. Terry Wilson Burra, South Australia. ----- Original Message ----- From: Larry L. Tompkins, P.E. To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Monday, April 30, 2007 11:26 AM Subject: RV7-List: Continental Engine? Several certificated manufacturers are using the 360 Continental instead of a Lycoming (except Cessna who went the other way). I am curious if anyone has considered and/or installed a Continental 360 in an RV-7. I don't have a good feel for the overall size of the two engines Is the 6 cylinder Continental any smoother than a 90 cubic inch/cylinder Lycoming? I read a lot of discussion about crank/propeller harmonics. All these engines are run pretty slowly compared to auto engines. It seems like power pulses ought to be measurably distinct. Consequently, I especially wonder about the effect on durablility and reliablity when modifications to raise horsepower are performed. They all have to raise BMEP, which in turn has to increase crank rap, increase the loading on the cylinder mounting flange and therefore the engine case, etc. etc.. A three main bearing crank and 6 lobe camshaft may have been great design choices in 1935, but probably not the way someone would design an engine today. I suppose that the bottom line is that the reliablitiy record is very good so I should just plug the Lycoming in, take good care of it and let it take good care of me. Larry Tompkins href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV7-List">http://www.matronhre f ="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV7-List">http://www.matronics . com/Navigator?RV7-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com et=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV7-List p://forums.matronics.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Mark Taylor <mtaylo17(at)msn.com>
Subject: -reply from downunder
Date: May 01, 2007
Yep, I think we do actually agree Frank.... When I say old tech, I mean tha t the basic design hasn't really evolved too much compared with the automot ive engines out there. Maybe I should've been more clear. There are indeed lot's of things that can go wrong. I know these are 'Exper imental' aeroplanes, but we really should strive to take as much of the exp eriment out of it as possible for safety's sake. One of those places is obv iously in the engine room. There really is no substitute for tried and test ed. It's definitely one of those debates that will go on for as long as people are building these planes! We can just keep adding fuel to the fire!! Mark www.4sierratango.com RV-7 IOF-360 Flying! Subject: RE: RV7-List: -reply from downunderDate: Tue, 1 May 2007 22:17:11 +0000From: frank.hinde(at)hp.comTo: rv7-list(at)matronics.com Indeed Mark, but I have to disaggree in that they are not old tech. The prop turns at 27 00RPM...Anyway you look at it you eventually have to have a shaft that turn s at the same speed as the prop...The Lyc does this by limiting engine spee d, the Auto needs a gearbox...they both work the same in this regard. Aircooled vs water cooled...I agree there are engine clearance compromises in the aircooled motor but they last 2000+ hours...Water cooled we think ha s a significant drag penalty...and will thus burn more fuel.. A modern car engine is festooned with gadgets which all represent failure p oints. seems with the above in mind the Lyc is a better design for the job at hand . And so the argument goes on. Cheers Frank From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server@mat ronics.com] On Behalf Of Mark TaylorSent: Tuesday, May 01, 2007 2:35 PMTo: rv7-list(at)matronics.comSubject: RE: RV7-List: -reply from downunder Something else about real aeroplane engines.... They will prop up the value of your plane. Everyone knows they're expensive and resale later on isn't going to hurt you anywhere near as much as an auto conversion engine in a p lane, even if it is an Eggenfelner. This is especially true if the prospect ive new owner lives miles from you and will need the annual doing by an A & P. Another issue is what if it goes wrong out in the field when you're awa y from home, all your tools and spares are in your workshop/hangar? Are you going to call an A & P to help you fix it, or the Subaru dealership? Sure these are downsides, and maybe there are some pluses too. For those, I gues s we'll have to rely on somebody who actually runs an auto conversion in an RV. Have you seen any builders sites with subaru's? I guess the most succe ssful I've seen so far is Bob Paisley. http://www.protekperformance.com/rv7 /. For some people, like Brian Meyette http://brian76.mystarband.net/rv7a/R V-7Ahome.htm it's proven to be somewhat of a challenge with issues that he' s had to overcome by pioneering such a task and I reckon it's added a consi derable amount of time to his build. I feel much the same way that these ai r cooled engines are old tech, but like Frank says, you can bring it into t he 20th century with FADEC or some fuel injection system. I myself chose th e FADEC route, and it's quite pleasant buzzing along at 60%-65% power burni ng 6.5-7 GPH. In the end, it's horses for courses... You decide what you wa nt to do and then you have to live with it. When you're done, someone else has to live with it, which is worth bearing in mind when you make your deci sion. Good luck! Markwww.4sierratango.com Subject: RE: RV7-List: -reply from downunderDate: Tue, 1 May 2007 15:07:16 +0000From: frank.hinde(at)hp.comTo: rv7-list(at)matronics.com Terry, I used to think the same way you did...I.e Lycomings are outdated, somehow inefficient and use lots of oil. I then used a supposedly top notch Subaru Ea81 conversion which turned out to be a bit of a disaster to be honest. I then realised that converting a car engine for aviation use is not easy, th ere are many gotchas and sometimes it takes many years for all the failure modes to become apparent. Remember every time you add a component, you add something that can fail. Jan Eggenfelner has probably done the best job so far in converting a car engine, but have all the failure modes been taken i nto account and reasonable decisions made about redcing those risks?..I hon estly don't know, partly because there are many hundreds if thousands of ho urs on Lycosauruses and anly a few on H4's and h6's...Yes I know there are lots of them in cars...But airplanes are different...I been there! I'm afraid also that your thinking negatively about the old clunkers is pre tty far off base today, at least with a modern experimental clone of say a LYC. Sure the certified versions still have some issues....Mags that wear o ut, vacuum pumps?...Gimme a break!...But the basic motor itself is far from being the piece of junk you think it might be. If you put a mechanical fuel injection unit on a clone you will be hard pre ssed to find a motor that goes as fast burning so little fuel and weighs le ss. Note most of the Egg airplanes come out relatively heavy compared to th eir old clunker comrades. Can you run an Egg lean of peak? (LOP)...I don't know that answer to that, but there is 1.5 Gallons per hour in cruise saving right there. As to using oil, simply not true, sure any motor can leak but my clone doesn't and it uses about a quart in 12 hours...Is that a big deal?...don't think so. The clones can also run premium mogas (you would need to order a low compre ssion version if you want to run regular) quite happily. You can put electronic ignition systems on them too. If you read john Deakin's articles you will find that these motors are rema rkably efficient...If its not 'high tech' enough for you then put a FADEC s ystem on it which makes it easier to get the mixture right. You have to remember that car engines have to be efficient at a number of d ifferent driving conditions...Airplane engines really only do one thing...y ou wind 'em up to cruise power and leave 'em there. A much simpler operatin g regime, thus its a much simpler engine with less things to go wrong. Cooling drag...Jury is still out on that one but the strong suspicion is th ere is more cooling drag with a water cooled motor, thus making it slower f or the same fuel burn....But as I said the jury is still out on that one. i f it is true then it will be worse on a fast airplane than a slow one. Really the only clear advantage of a car engine is the cost of the parts (a nd thus rebuild costs) are much less...of course no one has put a lot of ho urs on the reduction gearbox either so its not clear to me how many of thos e will be needed during the typical 2000 hours. Anyway, just to point out that the old dynosaur motors are that way for a v ery good reason...i.e they are designed to do exactly what they do very wel l, more highly adapted for their environment rather than woefully inadequat e and outdated. Cheers Frank From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server@mat ronics.com] On Behalf Of Terry WilsonSent: Tuesday, May 01, 2007 4:29 AMTo: rv7-list(at)matronics.comSubject: RV7-List: -reply from downunder Hi Larry, I'm a ' 7 builder in South Australia. Ive been interested in your arguments about the big thumper aero engines of yesteryear. I suspect you may be the type of person who may consider the likes of a mod ern Subaru. I certainly am, and am following up a couple of builders in Mel bourne Aust installing Eggenfellner motors. Australian aviation people are in some ways very conservative in only considering the 'traditional' option s, so the likes of Subaru in RV size planes is not seen so much over here. I know the cars we drive now have motors that are dramatically more reliabl e and last more than twice as long as the motors in our cars from the seven ties. Why oh why cant our aircraft gurus suggest and accept more up-to-date engines as well. Ive only done my empenage and ready to order wings, but I'm considering eng ine ideas at this stage as well. My concern with Subaru (read Egg) is back- up etc being such a long distance from the source. I suppose a benefit is t hat the 2.5 and H6 motors are all over the world and their technology is su pported, as in racing circles. The other thing is that Subaru can run with any juice, has lots of engine m anagement options, and tech stuff to run well and last a long time. I'm interested in any thoughts or experiences you have on these things. I d ont know much about Continental or Lycoming, except every time I see them i n gen aviation they look old tech, sound old tech, use oil by the bucket be cause of the large tolerances of big air-cooled donks, and seem to have as many problems as any other engines often due to the large stresses of the b ig slow motors. But if I have to use one to get my plane in the air, I gues s Ill just have to do it. Terry Wilson Burra, South Australia. ----- Original Message ----- From: Larry L. Tompkins, P.E. Sent: Monday, April 30, 2007 11:26 AM Subject: RV7-List: Continental Engine? Several certificated manufacturers are using the 360 Continental instead of a Lycoming (except Cessna who went the other way). I am curious if anyone has considered and/or installed a Continental 360 in an RV-7. I don't hav e a good feel for the overall size of the two engines Is the 6 cylinder Continental any smoother than a 90 cubic inch/cylinder Ly coming? I read a lot of discussion about crank/propeller harmonics. All t hese engines are run pretty slowly compared to auto engines. It seems like power pulses ought to be measurably distinct. Consequently, I especially wonder about the effect on durablility and reliablity when modifications to raise horsepower are performed. They all have to raise BMEP, which in tu rn has to increase crank rap, increase the loading on the cylinder mounting flange and therefore the engine case, etc. etc.. A three main bearing crank and 6 lobe camshaft may have been great design c hoices in 1935, but probably not the way someone would design an engine tod ay. I suppose that the bottom line is that the reliablitiy record is very good so I should just plug the Lycoming in, take good care of it and let it take good care of me. Larry Tompkins href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV7-List">http://www.matronhref ="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV7-List">http://www.matronhref ="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com et=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV7-List p://forums.matronics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV7-List">http://www.matronics.c om/Navigator?RV7-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Scott R. Shook" <sshook(at)cox.net>
Subject: -reply from downunder
Date: May 01, 2007
I have stayed away from this debate in the past only because I thought it was too heated on one side or the other. It's nice to see a discussion on the topic that is not a flame war. There are arguments for both. To its credit the Lycoming and Lycoming clones have been a proven design that has not had to evolve because it works (if its not broke don't fix it). Also, the technology is catching up with the introduction of electronic ignition over mags, FADEC, etc, etc. I personally am installing an Eggenfellner Subaru only because I have seen 99% of the bugs get worked out over the years. I also have spent the last 3 years watching Jan support his product and support those pioneers with his early iterations of the E4 and now the E6 and E6T. I am a firm believer in evolving with new technology (the computer engineer in me), and in a few short years we may actually see more people softening up to the idea of an alternative to the Lycoming. Resale is not a consideration for me at this point because I have no intention of building this plane only to sell it. I have faith in Jan and his commitment to the success of his company. If I read correctly, Jan is nearing the sold out mark for this years deliveries. Who knows, 20 years from now I could be in a thread like this and telling some other new builder to use an Eggenfellner and not the "Wiz-Bang 3000 - nuclear fuel cell magnetometer motor' because of a proven track record by the Subaru. My point is - technology changes. We can move forward and even contribute in a small way to its success or we can use what we are comfortable with what we know is working at the time. It's a personal decision as personal as what clothes you wear. Scott R. Shook RV-7A (Building) N696JS (Reserved) _____ From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mark Taylor Sent: Tuesday, May 01, 2007 15:40 Subject: RE: RV7-List: -reply from downunder Yep, I think we do actually agree Frank.... When I say old tech, I mean that the basic design hasn't really evolved too much compared with the automotive engines out there. Maybe I should've been more clear. There are indeed lot's of things that can go wrong. I know these are 'Experimental' aeroplanes, but we really should strive to take as much of the experiment out of it as possible for safety's sake. One of those places is obviously in the engine room. There really is no substitute for tried and tested. It's definitely one of those debates that will go on for as long as people are building these planes! We can just keep adding fuel to the fire!! Mark www.4sierratango.com RV-7 IOF-360 Flying! _____ Subject: RE: RV7-List: -reply from downunder Date: Tue, 1 May 2007 22:17:11 +0000 From: frank.hinde(at)hp.com Indeed Mark, but I have to disaggree in that they are not old tech. The prop turns at 2700RPM...Anyway you look at it you eventually have to have a shaft that turns at the same speed as the prop...The Lyc does this by limiting engine speed, the Auto needs a gearbox...they both work the same in this regard. Aircooled vs water cooled...I agree there are engine clearance compromises in the aircooled motor but they last 2000+ hours...Water cooled we think has a significant drag penalty...and will thus burn more fuel.. A modern car engine is festooned with gadgets which all represent failure points. seems with the above in mind the Lyc is a better design for the job at hand. And so the argument goes on. Cheers Frank _____ From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mark Taylor Sent: Tuesday, May 01, 2007 2:35 PM Subject: RE: RV7-List: -reply from downunder Something else about real aeroplane engines.... They will prop up the value of your plane. Everyone knows they're expensive and resale later on isn't going to hurt you anywhere near as much as an auto conversion engine in a plane, even if it is an Eggenfelner. This is especially true if the prospective new owner lives miles from you and will need the annual doing by an A & P. Another issue is what if it goes wrong out in the field when you're away from home, all your tools and spares are in your workshop/hangar? Are you going to call an A & P to help you fix it, or the Subaru dealership? Sure these are downsides, and maybe there are some pluses too. For those, I guess we'll have to rely on somebody who actually runs an auto conversion in an RV. Have you seen any builders sites with subaru's? I guess the most successful I've seen so far is Bob Paisley. http://www.protekperformance.com/rv7/. For some people, like Brian Meyette http://brian76.mystarband.net/rv7a/RV-7Ahome.htm it's proven to be somewhat of a challenge with issues that he's had to overcome by pioneering such a task and I reckon it's added a considerable amount of time to his build. I feel much the same way that these air cooled engines are old tech, but like Frank says, you can bring it into the 20th century with FADEC or some fuel injection system. I myself chose the FADEC route, and it's quite pleasant buzzing along at 60%-65% power burning 6.5-7 GPH. In the end, it's horses for courses... You decide what you want to do and then you have to live with it. When you're done, someone else has to live with it, which is worth bearing in mind when you make your decision. Good luck! Mark www.4sierratango.com <http://www.4sierratango.com/> _____ Subject: RE: RV7-List: -reply from downunder Date: Tue, 1 May 2007 15:07:16 +0000 From: frank.hinde(at)hp.com Terry, I used to think the same way you did...I.e Lycomings are outdated, somehow inefficient and use lots of oil. I then used a supposedly top notch Subaru Ea81 conversion which turned out to be a bit of a disaster to be honest. I then realised that converting a car engine for aviation use is not easy, there are many gotchas and sometimes it takes many years for all the failure modes to become apparent. Remember every time you add a component, you add something that can fail. Jan Eggenfelner has probably done the best job so far in converting a car engine, but have all the failure modes been taken into account and reasonable decisions made about redcing those risks?..I honestly don't know, partly because there are many hundreds if thousands of hours on Lycosauruses and anly a few on H4's and h6's...Yes I know there are lots of them in cars...But airplanes are different...I been there! I'm afraid also that your thinking negatively about the old clunkers is pretty far off base today, at least with a modern experimental clone of say a LYC. Sure the certified versions still have some issues....Mags that wear out, vacuum pumps?...Gimme a break!...But the basic motor itself is far from being the piece of junk you think it might be. If you put a mechanical fuel injection unit on a clone you will be hard pressed to find a motor that goes as fast burning so little fuel and weighs less. Note most of the Egg airplanes come out relatively heavy compared to their old clunker comrades. Can you run an Egg lean of peak? (LOP)...I don't know that answer to that, but there is 1.5 Gallons per hour in cruise saving right there. As to using oil, simply not true, sure any motor can leak but my clone doesn't and it uses about a quart in 12 hours...Is that a big deal?...don't think so. The clones can also run premium mogas (you would need to order a low compression version if you want to run regular) quite happily. You can put electronic ignition systems on them too. If you read john Deakin's articles you will find that these motors are remarkably efficient...If its not 'high tech' enough for you then put a FADEC system on it which makes it easier to get the mixture right. You have to remember that car engines have to be efficient at a number of different driving conditions...Airplane engines really only do one thing...you wind 'em up to cruise power and leave 'em there. A much simpler operating regime, thus its a much simpler engine with less things to go wrong. Cooling drag...Jury is still out on that one but the strong suspicion is there is more cooling drag with a water cooled motor, thus making it slower for the same fuel burn....But as I said the jury is still out on that one. if it is true then it will be worse on a fast airplane than a slow one. Really the only clear advantage of a car engine is the cost of the parts (and thus rebuild costs) are much less...of course no one has put a lot of hours on the reduction gearbox either so its not clear to me how many of those will be needed during the typical 2000 hours. Anyway, just to point out that the old dynosaur motors are that way for a very good reason...i.e they are designed to do exactly what they do very well, more highly adapted for their environment rather than woefully inadequate and outdated. Cheers Frank _____ From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Terry Wilson Sent: Tuesday, May 01, 2007 4:29 AM Subject: RV7-List: -reply from downunder Hi Larry, I'm a ' 7 builder in South Australia. Ive been interested in your arguments about the big thumper aero engines of yesteryear. I suspect you may be the type of person who may consider the likes of a modern Subaru. I certainly am, and am following up a couple of builders in Melbourne Aust installing Eggenfellner motors. Australian aviation people are in some ways very conservative in only considering the 'traditional' options, so the likes of Subaru in RV size planes is not seen so much over here. I know the cars we drive now have motors that are dramatically more reliable and last more than twice as long as the motors in our cars from the seventies. Why oh why cant our aircraft gurus suggest and accept more up-to-date engines as well. Ive only done my empenage and ready to order wings, but I'm considering engine ideas at this stage as well. My concern with Subaru (read Egg) is back-up etc being such a long distance from the source. I suppose a benefit is that the 2.5 and H6 motors are all over the world and their technology is supported, as in racing circles. The other thing is that Subaru can run with any juice, has lots of engine management options, and tech stuff to run well and last a long time. I'm interested in any thoughts or experiences you have on these things. I dont know much about Continental or Lycoming, except every time I see them in gen aviation they look old tech, sound old tech, use oil by the bucket because of the large tolerances of big air-cooled donks, and seem to have as many problems as any other engines often due to the large stresses of the big slow motors. But if I have to use one to get my plane in the air, I guess Ill just have to do it. Terry Wilson Burra, South Australia. ----- Original Message ----- From: Larry L. <mailto:tompkinsl(at)integra.net> Tompkins, P.E. Sent: Monday, April 30, 2007 11:26 AM Subject: RV7-List: Continental Engine? Several certificated manufacturers are using the 360 Continental instead of a Lycoming (except Cessna who went the other way). I am curious if anyone has considered and/or installed a Continental 360 in an RV-7. I don't have a good feel for the overall size of the two engines Is the 6 cylinder Continental any smoother than a 90 cubic inch/cylinder Lycoming? I read a lot of discussion about crank/propeller harmonics. All these engines are run pretty slowly compared to auto engines. It seems like power pulses ought to be measurably distinct. Consequently, I especially wonder about the effect on durablility and reliablity when modifications to raise horsepower are performed. They all have to raise BMEP, which in turn has to increase crank rap, increase the loading on the cylinder mounting flange and therefore the engine case, etc. etc.. A three main bearing crank and 6 lobe camshaft may have been great design choices in 1935, but probably not the way someone would design an engine today. I suppose that the bottom line is that the reliablitiy record is very good so I should just plug the Lycoming in, take good care of it and let it take good care of me. Larry Tompkins href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV7-List">http://www.matronhref="ht tp://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV7-List">http://www.matronhref="ht tp://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com et=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV7-List p://forums.matronics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV7-List">http://www.matronics.com/ Navigator?RV7-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com et=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV7-List p://forums.matronics.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Mark Taylor <mtaylo17(at)msn.com>
Subject: -reply from downunder
Date: May 01, 2007
I can remember when Jan was starting up his engine business, he had a well worked out package, and seems like he's evolving with the demands of his cu stomers too. He's certainly done a better job than the Crossbow Subaru peop le. Are they even still around? I do embrace new technology for aircraft, despite me going for the 'Lycosau r' clone, I went with a Blue Mountain EFIS 1, for similar reasons Scott wen t for the Eggenfellner. I like the EFIS a lot, but I'm still not quite trus ting it enough to go out and fly IFR. It does have the occasional glitch wh ich does eventually get worked out by the BMA gang. I guess we all decide h ow we want to allocate our risks. Here I am, hating Microsoft and just getting myself up to speed with the la test copy of Window's Vista on my computer! Here's to a discussion rather than a debate! Much more civilised don't ya t hink?! Regards, Mark www.4sierratango.com From: sshook(at)cox.netTo: rv7-list(at)matronics.comSubject: RE: RV7-List: -reply from downunderDate: Tue, 1 May 2007 17:13:10 -0700 I have stayed away from this debate in the past only because I thought it w as too heated on one side or the other. It=92s nice to see a discussion on the topic that is not a flame war. There are arguments for both. To its credit the Lycoming and Lycoming clon es have been a proven design that has not had to evolve because it works (i f its not broke don=92t fix it). Also, the technology is catching up with the introduction of electronic ignition over mags, FADEC, etc, etc. I personally am installing an Eggenfellner Subaru only because I have seen 99% of the bugs get worked out over the years. I also have spent the last 3 years watching Jan support his product and support those pioneers with hi s early iterations of the E4 and now the E6 and E6T. I am a firm believer in evolving with new technology (the computer engineer in me), and in a few short years we may actually see more people softening up to the idea of an alternative to the Lycoming. Resale is not a consideration for me at this point because I have no intention of building this plane only to sell it. I have faith in Jan and his commitment to the success of his company. If I read correctly, Jan is nearing the sold out mark for this years deliverie s. Who knows, 20 years from now I could be in a thread like this and telling s ome other new builder to use an Eggenfellner and not the =93Wiz-Bang 3000 ' nuclear fuel cell magnetometer motor=92 because of a proven track recor d by the Subaru. My point is ' technology changes. We can move forward and even contribut e in a small way to its success or we can use what we are comfortable with what we know is working at the time. It=92s a personal decision as persona l as what clothes you wear. Scott R. Shook RV-7A (Building) N696JS (Res erved) From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server@mat ronics.com] On Behalf Of Mark TaylorSent: Tuesday, May 01, 2007 15:40To: rv 7-list(at)matronics.comSubject: RE: RV7-List: -reply from downunder Yep, I think we do actually agree Frank.... When I say old tech, I mean tha t the basic design hasn't really evolved too much compared with the automot ive engines out there. Maybe I should've been more clear. There are indeed lot's of things that can go wrong. I know these are 'Experimental' aeroplan es, but we really should strive to take as much of the experiment out of it as possible for safety's sake. One of those places is obviously in the eng ine room. There really is no substitute for tried and tested. It's definite ly one of those debates that will go on for as long as people are building these planes! We can just keep adding fuel to the fire!! Markwww.4sierratan go.comRV-7 IOF-360 Flying! Subject: RE: RV7-List: -reply from downunderDate: Tue, 1 May 2007 22:17:11 +0000From: frank.hinde(at)hp.comTo: rv7-list(at)matronics.com Indeed Mark, but I have to disaggree in that they are not old tech. The prop turns at 27 00RPM...Anyway you look at it you eventually have to have a shaft that turn s at the same speed as the prop...The Lyc does this by limiting engine spee d, the Auto needs a gearbox...they both work the same in this regard. Aircooled vs water cooled...I agree there are engine clearance compromises in the aircooled motor but they last 2000+ hours...Water cooled we think ha s a significant drag penalty...and will thus burn more fuel.. A modern car engine is festooned with gadgets which all represent failure p oints. seems with the above in mind the Lyc is a better design for the job at hand . And so the argument goes on. Cheers Frank From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server@mat ronics.com] On Behalf Of Mark TaylorSent: Tuesday, May 01, 2007 2:35 PMTo: rv7-list(at)matronics.comSubject: RE: RV7-List: -reply from downunder Something else about real aeroplane engines.... They will prop up the value of your plane. Everyone knows they're expensive and resale later on isn't going to hurt you anywhere near as much as an auto conversion engine in a p lane, even if it is an Eggenfelner. This is especially true if the prospect ive new owner lives miles from you and will need the annual doing by an A & P. Another issue is what if it goes wrong out in the field when you're awa y from home, all your tools and spares are in your workshop/hangar? Are you going to call an A & P to help you fix it, or the Subaru dealership? Sure these are downsides, and maybe there are some pluses too. For those, I gues s we'll have to rely on somebody who actually runs an auto conversion in an RV. Have you seen any builders sites with subaru's? I guess the most succe ssful I've seen so far is Bob Paisley. http://www.protekperformance.com/rv7 /. For some people, like Brian Meyette http://brian76.mystarband.net/rv7a/R V-7Ahome.htm it's proven to be somewhat of a challenge with issues that he' s had to overcome by pioneering such a task and I reckon it's added a consi derable amount of time to his build. I feel much the same way that these ai r cooled engines are old tech, but like Frank says, you can bring it into t he 20th century with FADEC or some fuel injection system. I myself chose th e FADEC route, and it's quite pleasant buzzing along at 60%-65% power burni ng 6.5-7 GPH. In the end, it's horses for courses... You decide what you wa nt to do and then you have to live with it. When you're done, someone else has to live with it, which is worth bearing in mind when you make your deci sion. Good luck! Markwww.4sierratango.com Subject: RE: RV7-List: -reply from downunderDate: Tue, 1 May 2007 15:07:16 +0000From: frank.hinde(at)hp.comTo: rv7-list(at)matronics.com Terry, I used to think the same way you did...I.e Lycomings are outdated, somehow inefficient and use lots of oil. I then used a supposedly top notch Subaru Ea81 conversion which turned out to be a bit of a disaster to be honest. I then realised that converting a car engine for aviation use is not easy, th ere are many gotchas and sometimes it takes many years for all the failure modes to become apparent. Remember every time you add a component, you add something that can fail. Jan Eggenfelner has probably done the best job so far in converting a car engine, but have all the failure modes been taken i nto account and reasonable decisions made about redcing those risks?..I hon estly don't know, partly because there are many hundreds if thousands of ho urs on Lycosauruses and anly a few on H4's and h6's...Yes I know there are lots of them in cars...But airplanes are different...I been there! I'm afraid also that your thinking negatively about the old clunkers is pre tty far off base today, at least with a modern experimental clone of say a LYC. Sure the certified versions still have some issues....Mags that wear o ut, vacuum pumps?...Gimme a break!...But the basic motor itself is far from being the piece of junk you think it might be. If you put a mechanical fuel injection unit on a clone you will be hard pre ssed to find a motor that goes as fast burning so little fuel and weighs le ss. Note most of the Egg airplanes come out relatively heavy compared to th eir old clunker comrades. Can you run an Egg lean of peak? (LOP)...I don't know that answer to that, but there is 1.5 Gallons per hour in cruise saving right there. As to using oil, simply not true, sure any motor can leak but my clone doesn't and it uses about a quart in 12 hours...Is that a big deal?...don't think so. The clones can also run premium mogas (you would need to order a low compre ssion version if you want to run regular) quite happily. You can put electronic ignition systems on them too. If you read john Deakin's articles you will find that these motors are rema rkably efficient...If its not 'high tech' enough for you then put a FADEC s ystem on it which makes it easier to get the mixture right. You have to remember that car engines have to be efficient at a number of d ifferent driving conditions...Airplane engines really only do one thing...y ou wind 'em up to cruise power and leave 'em there. A much simpler operatin g regime, thus its a much simpler engine with less things to go wrong. Cooling drag...Jury is still out on that one but the strong suspicion is th ere is more cooling drag with a water cooled motor, thus making it slower f or the same fuel burn....But as I said the jury is still out on that one. i f it is true then it will be worse on a fast airplane than a slow one. Really the only clear advantage of a car engine is the cost of the parts (a nd thus rebuild costs) are much less...of course no one has put a lot of ho urs on the reduction gearbox either so its not clear to me how many of thos e will be needed during the typical 2000 hours. Anyway, just to point out that the old dynosaur motors are that way for a v ery good reason...i.e they are designed to do exactly what they do very wel l, more highly adapted for their environment rather than woefully inadequat e and outdated. Cheers Frank From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server@mat ronics.com] On Behalf Of Terry WilsonSent: Tuesday, May 01, 2007 4:29 AMTo: rv7-list(at)matronics.comSubject: RV7-List: -reply from downunder Hi Larry, I'm a ' 7 builder in South Australia. Ive been interested in your arguments about the big thumper aero engines of yesteryear. I suspect you may be the type of person who may consider the likes of a mod ern Subaru. I certainly am, and am following up a couple of builders in Mel bourne Aust installing Eggenfellner motors. Australian aviation people are in some ways very conservative in only considering the 'traditional' option s, so the likes of Subaru in RV size planes is not seen so much over here. I know the cars we drive now have motors that are dramatically more reliabl e and last more than twice as long as the motors in our cars from the seven ties. Why oh why cant our aircraft gurus suggest and accept more up-to-date engines as well. Ive only done my empenage and ready to order wings, but I'm considering eng ine ideas at this stage as well. My concern with Subaru (read Egg) is back- up etc being such a long distance from the source. I suppose a benefit is t hat the 2.5 and H6 motors are all over the world and their technology is su pported, as in racing circles. The other thing is that Subaru can run with any juice, has lots of engine m anagement options, and tech stuff to run well and last a long time. I'm interested in any thoughts or experiences you have on these things. I d ont know much about Continental or Lycoming, except every time I see them i n gen aviation they look old tech, sound old tech, use oil by the bucket be cause of the large tolerances of big air-cooled donks, and seem to have as many problems as any other engines often due to the large stresses of the b ig slow motors. But if I have to use one to get my plane in the air, I gues s Ill just have to do it. Terry Wilson Burra, South Australia. ----- Original Message ----- From: Larry L. Tompkins, P.E. Sent: Monday, April 30, 2007 11:26 AM Subject: RV7-List: Continental Engine? Several certificated manufacturers are using the 360 Continental instead of a Lycoming (except Cessna who went the other way). I am curious if anyone has considered and/or installed a Continental 360 in an RV-7. I don't hav e a good feel for the overall size of the two engines Is the 6 cylinder Continental any smoother than a 90 cubic inch/cylinder Ly coming? I read a lot of discussion about crank/propeller harmonics. All t hese engines are run pretty slowly compared to auto engines. It seems like power pulses ought to be measurably distinct. Consequently, I especially wonder about the effect on durablility and reliablity when modifications to raise horsepower are performed. They all have to raise BMEP, which in tu rn has to increase crank rap, increase the loading on the cylinder mounting flange and therefore the engine case, etc. etc.. A three main bearing crank and 6 lobe camshaft may have been great design c hoices in 1935, but probably not the way someone would design an engine tod ay. I suppose that the bottom line is that the reliablitiy record is very good so I should just plug the Lycoming in, take good care of it and let it take good care of me. Larry Tompkins href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV7-List">http:/ /www.matronhref="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV7-List">http://www.matronhr ef="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com et=_blan k>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV7-Listp://forums.matronics.com hre f="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV7-List">http://www.matronics.com/ Navigator?RV7-Listhref="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matron ics.com et=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV7-Listp://forums .matronics.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: -reply from downunder
Date: May 02, 2007
From: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde(at)hp.com>
Amen!...:) Frank ________________________________ From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mark Taylor Sent: Tuesday, May 01, 2007 3:40 PM Subject: RE: RV7-List: -reply from downunder Yep, I think we do actually agree Frank.... When I say old tech, I mean that the basic design hasn't really evolved too much compared with the automotive engines out there. Maybe I should've been more clear. There are indeed lot's of things that can go wrong. I know these are 'Experimental' aeroplanes, but we really should strive to take as much of the experiment out of it as possible for safety's sake. One of those places is obviously in the engine room. There really is no substitute for tried and tested. It's definitely one of those debates that will go on for as long as people are building these planes! We can just keep adding fuel to the fire!! Mark www.4sierratango.com RV-7 IOF-360 Flying! ________________________________ Subject: RE: RV7-List: -reply from downunder Date: Tue, 1 May 2007 22:17:11 +0000 From: frank.hinde(at)hp.com To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com Indeed Mark, but I have to disaggree in that they are not old tech. The prop turns at 2700RPM...Anyway you look at it you eventually have to have a shaft that turns at the same speed as the prop...The Lyc does this by limiting engine speed, the Auto needs a gearbox...they both work the same in this regard. Aircooled vs water cooled...I agree there are engine clearance compromises in the aircooled motor but they last 2000+ hours...Water cooled we think has a significant drag penalty...and will thus burn more fuel.. A modern car engine is festooned with gadgets which all represent failure points. seems with the above in mind the Lyc is a better design for the job at hand. And so the argument goes on. Cheers Frank ________________________________ From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mark Taylor Sent: Tuesday, May 01, 2007 2:35 PM To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com Subject: RE: RV7-List: -reply from downunder Something else about real aeroplane engines.... They will prop up the value of your plane. Everyone knows they're expensive and resale later on isn't going to hurt you anywhere near as much as an auto conversion engine in a plane, even if it is an Eggenfelner. This is especially true if the prospective new owner lives miles from you and will need the annual doing by an A & P. Another issue is what if it goes wrong out in the field when you're away from home, all your tools and spares are in your workshop/hangar? Are you going to call an A & P to help you fix it, or the Subaru dealership? Sure these are downsides, and maybe there are some pluses too. For those, I guess we'll have to rely on somebody who actually runs an auto conversion in an RV. Have you seen any builders sites with subaru's? I guess the most successful I've seen so far is Bob Paisley. http://www.protekperformance.com/rv7/. For some people, like Brian Meyette http://brian76.mystarband.net/rv7a/RV-7Ahome.htm it's proven to be somewhat of a challenge with issues that he's had to overcome by pioneering such a task and I reckon it's added a considerable amount of time to his build. I feel much the same way that these air cooled engines are old tech, but like Frank says, you can bring it into the 20th century with FADEC or some fuel injection system. I myself chose the FADEC route, and it's quite pleasant buzzing along at 60%-65% power burning 6.5-7 GPH. In the end, it's horses for courses... You decide what you want to do and then you have to live with it. When you're done, someone else has to live with it, which is worth bearing in mind when you make your decision. Good luck! Mark www.4sierratango.com <http://www.4sierratango.com/> ________________________________ Subject: RE: RV7-List: -reply from downunder Date: Tue, 1 May 2007 15:07:16 +0000 From: frank.hinde(at)hp.com To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com Terry, I used to think the same way you did...I.e Lycomings are outdated, somehow inefficient and use lots of oil. I then used a supposedly top notch Subaru Ea81 conversion which turned out to be a bit of a disaster to be honest. I then realised that converting a car engine for aviation use is not easy, there are many gotchas and sometimes it takes many years for all the failure modes to become apparent. Remember every time you add a component, you add something that can fail. Jan Eggenfelner has probably done the best job so far in converting a car engine, but have all the failure modes been taken into account and reasonable decisions made about redcing those risks?..I honestly don't know, partly because there are many hundreds if thousands of hours on Lycosauruses and anly a few on H4's and h6's...Yes I know there are lots of them in cars...But airplanes are different...I been there! I'm afraid also that your thinking negatively about the old clunkers is pretty far off base today, at least with a modern experimental clone of say a LYC. Sure the certified versions still have some issues....Mags that wear out, vacuum pumps?...Gimme a break!...But the basic motor itself is far from being the piece of junk you think it might be. If you put a mechanical fuel injection unit on a clone you will be hard pressed to find a motor that goes as fast burning so little fuel and weighs less. Note most of the Egg airplanes come out relatively heavy compared to their old clunker comrades. Can you run an Egg lean of peak? (LOP)...I don't know that answer to that, but there is 1.5 Gallons per hour in cruise saving right there. As to using oil, simply not true, sure any motor can leak but my clone doesn't and it uses about a quart in 12 hours...Is that a big deal?...don't think so. The clones can also run premium mogas (you would need to order a low compression version if you want to run regular) quite happily. You can put electronic ignition systems on them too. If you read john Deakin's articles you will find that these motors are remarkably efficient...If its not 'high tech' enough for you then put a FADEC system on it which makes it easier to get the mixture right. You have to remember that car engines have to be efficient at a number of different driving conditions...Airplane engines really only do one thing...you wind 'em up to cruise power and leave 'em there. A much simpler operating regime, thus its a much simpler engine with less things to go wrong. Cooling drag...Jury is still out on that one but the strong suspicion is there is more cooling drag with a water cooled motor, thus making it slower for the same fuel burn....But as I said the jury is still out on that one. if it is true then it will be worse on a fast airplane than a slow one. Really the only clear advantage of a car engine is the cost of the parts (and thus rebuild costs) are much less...of course no one has put a lot of hours on the reduction gearbox either so its not clear to me how many of those will be needed during the typical 2000 hours. Anyway, just to point out that the old dynosaur motors are that way for a very good reason...i.e they are designed to do exactly what they do very well, more highly adapted for their environment rather than woefully inadequate and outdated. Cheers Frank ________________________________ From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Terry Wilson Sent: Tuesday, May 01, 2007 4:29 AM To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com Subject: RV7-List: -reply from downunder Hi Larry, I'm a ' 7 builder in South Australia. Ive been interested in your arguments about the big thumper aero engines of yesteryear. I suspect you may be the type of person who may consider the likes of a modern Subaru. I certainly am, and am following up a couple of builders in Melbourne Aust installing Eggenfellner motors. Australian aviation people are in some ways very conservative in only considering the 'traditional' options, so the likes of Subaru in RV size planes is not seen so much over here. I know the cars we drive now have motors that are dramatically more reliable and last more than twice as long as the motors in our cars from the seventies. Why oh why cant our aircraft gurus suggest and accept more up-to-date engines as well. Ive only done my empenage and ready to order wings, but I'm considering engine ideas at this stage as well. My concern with Subaru (read Egg) is back-up etc being such a long distance from the source. I suppose a benefit is that the 2.5 and H6 motors are all over the world and their technology is supported, as in racing circles. The other thing is that Subaru can run with any juice, has lots of engine management options, and tech stuff to run well and last a long time. I'm interested in any thoughts or experiences you have on these things. I dont know much about Continental or Lycoming, except every time I see them in gen aviation they look old tech, sound old tech, use oil by the bucket because of the large tolerances of big air-cooled donks, and seem to have as many problems as any other engines often due to the large stresses of the big slow motors. But if I have to use one to get my plane in the air, I guess Ill just have to do it. Terry Wilson Burra, South Australia. ----- Original Message ----- From: Larry L. Tompkins, P.E. To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Monday, April 30, 2007 11:26 AM Subject: RV7-List: Continental Engine? Several certificated manufacturers are using the 360 Continental instead of a Lycoming (except Cessna who went the other way). I am curious if anyone has considered and/or installed a Continental 360 in an RV-7. I don't have a good feel for the overall size of the two engines Is the 6 cylinder Continental any smoother than a 90 cubic inch/cylinder Lycoming? I read a lot of discussion about crank/propeller harmonics. All these engines are run pretty slowly compared to auto engines. It seems like power pulses ought to be measurably distinct. Consequently, I especially wonder about the effect on durablility and reliablity when modifications to raise horsepower are performed. They all have to raise BMEP, which in turn has to increase crank rap, increase the loading on the cylinder mounting flange and therefore the engine case, etc. etc.. A three main bearing crank and 6 lobe camshaft may have been great design choices in 1935, but probably not the way someone would design an engine today. I suppose that the bottom line is that the reliablitiy record is very good so I should just plug the Lycoming in, take good care of it and let it take good care of me. Larry Tompkins href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV7-List">http://www.matronhre f ="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV7-List">http://www.matronhre f ="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com et=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV7-List p://forums.matronics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV7-List">http://www.matronics . com/Navigator?RV7-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com et=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV7-List p://forums.matronics.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: -reply from downunder
Date: May 02, 2007
From: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde(at)hp.com>
Indeed Scott, And if it wasn't for early adopters such as yourself then there would never be a market for anything new in aviation...Just look at what has come about in the last few years in the experimental EFIS, engine management and autopilot systems. You bet I jumped all over those!!! Cheers Frank ________________________________ From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Scott R. Shook Sent: Tuesday, May 01, 2007 5:13 PM Subject: RE: RV7-List: -reply from downunder I have stayed away from this debate in the past only because I thought it was too heated on one side or the other. It's nice to see a discussion on the topic that is not a flame war. There are arguments for both. To its credit the Lycoming and Lycoming clones have been a proven design that has not had to evolve because it works (if its not broke don't fix it). Also, the technology is catching up with the introduction of electronic ignition over mags, FADEC, etc, etc. I personally am installing an Eggenfellner Subaru only because I have seen 99% of the bugs get worked out over the years. I also have spent the last 3 years watching Jan support his product and support those pioneers with his early iterations of the E4 and now the E6 and E6T. I am a firm believer in evolving with new technology (the computer engineer in me), and in a few short years we may actually see more people softening up to the idea of an alternative to the Lycoming. Resale is not a consideration for me at this point because I have no intention of building this plane only to sell it. I have faith in Jan and his commitment to the success of his company. If I read correctly, Jan is nearing the sold out mark for this years deliveries. Who knows, 20 years from now I could be in a thread like this and telling some other new builder to use an Eggenfellner and not the "Wiz-Bang 3000 - nuclear fuel cell magnetometer motor' because of a proven track record by the Subaru. My point is - technology changes. We can move forward and even contribute in a small way to its success or we can use what we are comfortable with what we know is working at the time. It's a personal decision as personal as what clothes you wear. Scott R. Shook RV-7A (Building) N696JS (Reserved) ________________________________ From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mark Taylor Sent: Tuesday, May 01, 2007 15:40 Subject: RE: RV7-List: -reply from downunder Yep, I think we do actually agree Frank.... When I say old tech, I mean that the basic design hasn't really evolved too much compared with the automotive engines out there. Maybe I should've been more clear. There are indeed lot's of things that can go wrong. I know these are 'Experimental' aeroplanes, but we really should strive to take as much of the experiment out of it as possible for safety's sake. One of those places is obviously in the engine room. There really is no substitute for tried and tested. It's definitely one of those debates that will go on for as long as people are building these planes! We can just keep adding fuel to the fire!! Mark www.4sierratango.com RV-7 IOF-360 Flying! ________________________________ Subject: RE: RV7-List: -reply from downunder Date: Tue, 1 May 2007 22:17:11 +0000 From: frank.hinde(at)hp.com Indeed Mark, but I have to disaggree in that they are not old tech. The prop turns at 2700RPM...Anyway you look at it you eventually have to have a shaft that turns at the same speed as the prop...The Lyc does this by limiting engine speed, the Auto needs a gearbox...they both work the same in this regard. Aircooled vs water cooled...I agree there are engine clearance compromises in the aircooled motor but they last 2000+ hours...Water cooled we think has a significant drag penalty...and will thus burn more fuel.. A modern car engine is festooned with gadgets which all represent failure points. seems with the above in mind the Lyc is a better design for the job at hand. And so the argument goes on. Cheers Frank ________________________________ From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mark Taylor Sent: Tuesday, May 01, 2007 2:35 PM Subject: RE: RV7-List: -reply from downunder Something else about real aeroplane engines.... They will prop up the value of your plane. Everyone knows they're expensive and resale later on isn't going to hurt you anywhere near as much as an auto conversion engine in a plane, even if it is an Eggenfelner. This is especially true if the prospective new owner lives miles from you and will need the annual doing by an A & P. Another issue is what if it goes wrong out in the field when you're away from home, all your tools and spares are in your workshop/hangar? Are you going to call an A & P to help you fix it, or the Subaru dealership? Sure these are downsides, and maybe there are some pluses too. For those, I guess we'll have to rely on somebody who actually runs an auto conversion in an RV. Have you seen any builders sites with subaru's? I guess the most successful I've seen so far is Bob Paisley. http://www.protekperformance.com/rv7/. For some people, like Brian Meyette http://brian76.mystarband.net/rv7a/RV-7Ahome.htm it's proven to be somewhat of a challenge with issues that he's had to overcome by pioneering such a task and I reckon it's added a considerable amount of time to his build. I feel much the same way that these air cooled engines are old tech, but like Frank says, you can bring it into the 20th century with FADEC or some fuel injection system. I myself chose the FADEC route, and it's quite pleasant buzzing along at 60%-65% power burning 6.5-7 GPH. In the end, it's horses for courses... You decide what you want to do and then you have to live with it. When you're done, someone else has to live with it, which is worth bearing in mind when you make your decision. Good luck! Mark www.4sierratango.com <http://www.4sierratango.com/> ________________________________ Subject: RE: RV7-List: -reply from downunder Date: Tue, 1 May 2007 15:07:16 +0000 From: frank.hinde(at)hp.com Terry, I used to think the same way you did...I.e Lycomings are outdated, somehow inefficient and use lots of oil. I then used a supposedly top notch Subaru Ea81 conversion which turned out to be a bit of a disaster to be honest. I then realised that converting a car engine for aviation use is not easy, there are many gotchas and sometimes it takes many years for all the failure modes to become apparent. Remember every time you add a component, you add something that can fail. Jan Eggenfelner has probably done the best job so far in converting a car engine, but have all the failure modes been taken into account and reasonable decisions made about redcing those risks?..I honestly don't know, partly because there are many hundreds if thousands of hours on Lycosauruses and anly a few on H4's and h6's...Yes I know there are lots of them in cars...But airplanes are different...I been there! I'm afraid also that your thinking negatively about the old clunkers is pretty far off base today, at least with a modern experimental clone of say a LYC. Sure the certified versions still have some issues....Mags that wear out, vacuum pumps?...Gimme a break!...But the basic motor itself is far from being the piece of junk you think it might be. If you put a mechanical fuel injection unit on a clone you will be hard pressed to find a motor that goes as fast burning so little fuel and weighs less. Note most of the Egg airplanes come out relatively heavy compared to their old clunker comrades. Can you run an Egg lean of peak? (LOP)...I don't know that answer to that, but there is 1.5 Gallons per hour in cruise saving right there. As to using oil, simply not true, sure any motor can leak but my clone doesn't and it uses about a quart in 12 hours...Is that a big deal?...don't think so. The clones can also run premium mogas (you would need to order a low compression version if you want to run regular) quite happily. You can put electronic ignition systems on them too. If you read john Deakin's articles you will find that these motors are remarkably efficient...If its not 'high tech' enough for you then put a FADEC system on it which makes it easier to get the mixture right. You have to remember that car engines have to be efficient at a number of different driving conditions...Airplane engines really only do one thing...you wind 'em up to cruise power and leave 'em there. A much simpler operating regime, thus its a much simpler engine with less things to go wrong. Cooling drag...Jury is still out on that one but the strong suspicion is there is more cooling drag with a water cooled motor, thus making it slower for the same fuel burn....But as I said the jury is still out on that one. if it is true then it will be worse on a fast airplane than a slow one. Really the only clear advantage of a car engine is the cost of the parts (and thus rebuild costs) are much less...of course no one has put a lot of hours on the reduction gearbox either so its not clear to me how many of those will be needed during the typical 2000 hours. Anyway, just to point out that the old dynosaur motors are that way for a very good reason...i.e they are designed to do exactly what they do very well, more highly adapted for their environment rather than woefully inadequate and outdated. Cheers Frank ________________________________ From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Terry Wilson Sent: Tuesday, May 01, 2007 4:29 AM Subject: RV7-List: -reply from downunder Hi Larry, I'm a ' 7 builder in South Australia. Ive been interested in your arguments about the big thumper aero engines of yesteryear. I suspect you may be the type of person who may consider the likes of a modern Subaru. I certainly am, and am following up a couple of builders in Melbourne Aust installing Eggenfellner motors. Australian aviation people are in some ways very conservative in only considering the 'traditional' options, so the likes of Subaru in RV size planes is not seen so much over here. I know the cars we drive now have motors that are dramatically more reliable and last more than twice as long as the motors in our cars from the seventies. Why oh why cant our aircraft gurus suggest and accept more up-to-date engines as well. Ive only done my empenage and ready to order wings, but I'm considering engine ideas at this stage as well. My concern with Subaru (read Egg) is back-up etc being such a long distance from the source. I suppose a benefit is that the 2.5 and H6 motors are all over the world and their technology is supported, as in racing circles. The other thing is that Subaru can run with any juice, has lots of engine management options, and tech stuff to run well and last a long time. I'm interested in any thoughts or experiences you have on these things. I dont know much about Continental or Lycoming, except every time I see them in gen aviation they look old tech, sound old tech, use oil by the bucket because of the large tolerances of big air-cooled donks, and seem to have as many problems as any other engines often due to the large stresses of the big slow motors. But if I have to use one to get my plane in the air, I guess Ill just have to do it. Terry Wilson Burra, South Australia. ----- Original Message ----- From: Larry L. Tompkins, P.E. <mailto:tompkinsl(at)integra.net> To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Monday, April 30, 2007 11:26 AM Subject: RV7-List: Continental Engine? Several certificated manufacturers are using the 360 Continental instead of a Lycoming (except Cessna who went the other way). I am curious if anyone has considered and/or installed a Continental 360 in an RV-7. I don't have a good feel for the overall size of the two engines Is the 6 cylinder Continental any smoother than a 90 cubic inch/cylinder Lycoming? I read a lot of discussion about crank/propeller harmonics. All these engines are run pretty slowly compared to auto engines. It seems like power pulses ought to be measurably distinct. Consequently, I especially wonder about the effect on durablility and reliablity when modifications to raise horsepower are performed. They all have to raise BMEP, which in turn has to increase crank rap, increase the loading on the cylinder mounting flange and therefore the engine case, etc. etc.. A three main bearing crank and 6 lobe camshaft may have been great design choices in 1935, but probably not the way someone would design an engine today. I suppose that the bottom line is that the reliablitiy record is very good so I should just plug the Lycoming in, take good care of it and let it take good care of me. Larry Tompkins href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV7-List">http://www.matronhre f ="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV7-List">http://www.matronhre f ="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com et=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV7-List p://forums.matronics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV7-List">http://www.matronics . com/Navigator?RV7-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com et=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV7-List p://forums.matronics.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bill Schoen" <flybill2usa(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: -reply from downunder
Date: May 01, 2007
This is an ancient, but worthwhile discussion. It does boil down to being a personal decision and how we each arrive at our own decision is perhaps as instructive as the knowledge of the differences, to one still in the process of making that decision so I will chime in with my own road to this decision for whatever it's worth. I can tell you that I truly agonized over it for about 2 years! I had a Cessna 180 for 22 years and loved the smooth power of the 6 cylinder O-470 Continental engine. Every time I flew an airplane with a 4 cylinder Lycoming engine, I admired the light weight efficient power they produced but was not impressed by the vibration and seeming difficulty with starting compared with the O-470. Perhaps one of the strongest pulls for me was a desire for 6 cylinders. Another was the shock cooling issue which of course resides in all air cooled aircraft engines. I towed gliders with Pawnee's powered by Lycoming O-540s which were smoother and had great power, but shock cooling of the cylinders was a huge concern. While magnetos are relatively simple and very reliable over the course of a 2000 hour TBO they often are at the center of traditional engine problems. It is absolutely true that traditional engines are relatively simple with few failure points, with very long histories of usage and reliability and that is a very powerful argument in favor of them. Perhaps their strongest, which was the source of most of my agony in deciding, but in the end, the smooth power and modern engineering advancements and perhaps most of all, the reputation of the integrity of the Eggenfellner organization won the day and I made the decision knowing the risks and I have chosen the new H6T engine to go along with a modern 'all glass" cockpit, for my RV-7. There you have it. You pays your money and makes your choices. Bill Schoen RV-7 90% N727BN (res) ----- Original Message ----- l From: Scott R. Shook<mailto:sshook(at)cox.net> To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Tuesday, May 01, 2007 6:13 PM Subject: RE: RV7-List: -reply from downunder I have stayed away from this debate in the past only because I thought it was too heated on one side or the other. It's nice to see a discussion on the topic that is not a flame war. There are arguments for both. To its credit the Lycoming and Lycoming clones have been a proven design that has not had to evolve because it works (if its not broke don't fix it). Also, the technology is catching up with the introduction of electronic ignition over mags, FADEC, etc, etc. I personally am installing an Eggenfellner Subaru only because I have seen 99% of the bugs get worked out over the years. I also have spent the last 3 years watching Jan support his product and support those pioneers with his early iterations of the E4 and now the E6 and E6T. I am a firm believer in evolving with new technology (the computer engineer in me), and in a few short years we may actually see more people softening up to the idea of an alternative to the Lycoming. Resale is not a consideration for me at this point because I have no intention of building this plane only to sell it. I have faith in Jan and his commitment to the success of his company. If I read correctly, Jan is nearing the sold out mark for this years deliveries. Who knows, 20 years from now I could be in a thread like this and telling some other new builder to use an Eggenfellner and not the "Wiz-Bang 3000 - nuclear fuel cell magnetometer motor' because of a proven track record by the Subaru. My point is - technology changes. We can move forward and even contribute in a small way to its success or we can use what we are comfortable with what we know is working at the time. It's a personal decision as personal as what clothes you wear. Scott R. Shook RV-7A (Building) N696JS (Reserved) ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----- From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mark Taylor Sent: Tuesday, May 01, 2007 15:40 To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com Subject: RE: RV7-List: -reply from downunder Yep, I think we do actually agree Frank.... When I say old tech, I mean that the basic design hasn't really evolved too much compared with the automotive engines out there. Maybe I should've been more clear. There are indeed lot's of things that can go wrong. I know these are 'Experimental' aeroplanes, but we really should strive to take as much of the experiment out of it as possible for safety's sake. One of those places is obviously in the engine room. There really is no substitute for tried and tested. It's definitely one of those debates that will go on for as long as people are building these planes! We can just keep adding fuel to the fire!! Mark www.4sierratango.com<http://www.4sierratango.com/> RV-7 IOF-360 Flying! ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----- Subject: RE: RV7-List: -reply from downunder Date: Tue, 1 May 2007 22:17:11 +0000 From: frank.hinde(at)hp.com To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com Indeed Mark, but I have to disaggree in that they are not old tech. The prop turns at 2700RPM...Anyway you look at it you eventually have to have a shaft that turns at the same speed as the prop...The Lyc does this by limiting engine speed, the Auto needs a gearbox...they both work the same in this regard. Aircooled vs water cooled...I agree there are engine clearance compromises in the aircooled motor but they last 2000+ hours...Water cooled we think has a significant drag penalty...and will thus burn more fuel.. A modern car engine is festooned with gadgets which all represent failure points. seems with the above in mind the Lyc is a better design for the job at hand. And so the argument goes on. Cheers Frank ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----- From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mark Taylor Sent: Tuesday, May 01, 2007 2:35 PM To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com Subject: RE: RV7-List: -reply from downunder Something else about real aeroplane engines.... They will prop up the value of your plane. Everyone knows they're expensive and resale later on isn't going to hurt you anywhere near as much as an auto conversion engine in a plane, even if it is an Eggenfelner. This is especially true if the prospective new owner lives miles from you and will need the annual doing by an A & P. Another issue is what if it goes wrong out in the field when you're away from home, all your tools and spares are in your workshop/hangar? Are you going to call an A & P to help you fix it, or the Subaru dealership? Sure these are downsides, and maybe there are some pluses too. For those, I guess we'll have to rely on somebody who actually runs an auto conversion in an RV. Have you seen any builders sites with subaru's? I guess the most successful I've seen so far is Bob Paisley. http://www.protekperformance.com/rv7/ 7/>. For some people, like Brian Meyette http://brian76.mystarband.net/rv7a/RV-7Ahome.htm d.net/rv7a/RV-7Ahome.htm> it's proven to be somewhat of a challenge with issues that he's had to overcome by pioneering such a task and I reckon it's added a considerable amount of time to his build. I feel much the same way that these air cooled engines are old tech, but like Frank says, you can bring it into the 20th century with FADEC or some fuel injection system. I myself chose the FADEC route, and it's quite pleasant buzzing along at 60%-65% power burning 6.5-7 GPH. In the end, it's horses for courses... You decide what you want to do and then you have to live with it. When you're done, someone else has to live with it, which is worth bearing in mind when you make your decision. Good luck! Mark www.4sierratango.com<http://www.4sierratango.com/> ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----- Subject: RE: RV7-List: -reply from downunder Date: Tue, 1 May 2007 15:07:16 +0000 From: frank.hinde(at)hp.com To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com Terry, I used to think the same way you did...I.e Lycomings are outdated, somehow inefficient and use lots of oil. I then used a supposedly top notch Subaru Ea81 conversion which turned out to be a bit of a disaster to be honest. I then realised that converting a car engine for aviation use is not easy, there are many gotchas and sometimes it takes many years for all the failure modes to become apparent. Remember every time you add a component, you add something that can fail. Jan Eggenfelner has probably done the best job so far in converting a car engine, but have all the failure modes been taken into account and reasonable decisions made about redcing those risks?..I honestly don't know, partly because there are many hundreds if thousands of hours on Lycosauruses and anly a few on H4's and h6's...Yes I know there are lots of them in cars...But airplanes are different...I been there! I'm afraid also that your thinking negatively about the old clunkers is pretty far off base today, at least with a modern experimental clone of say a LYC. Sure the certified versions still have some issues....Mags that wear out, vacuum pumps?...Gimme a break!...But the basic motor itself is far from being the piece of junk you think it might be. If you put a mechanical fuel injection unit on a clone you will be hard pressed to find a motor that goes as fast burning so little fuel and weighs less. Note most of the Egg airplanes come out relatively heavy compared to their old clunker comrades. Can you run an Egg lean of peak? (LOP)...I don't know that answer to that, but there is 1.5 Gallons per hour in cruise saving right there. As to using oil, simply not true, sure any motor can leak but my clone doesn't and it uses about a quart in 12 hours...Is that a big deal?...don't think so. The clones can also run premium mogas (you would need to order a low compression version if you want to run regular) quite happily. You can put electronic ignition systems on them too. If you read john Deakin's articles you will find that these motors are remarkably efficient...If its not 'high tech' enough for you then put a FADEC system on it which makes it easier to get the mixture right. You have to remember that car engines have to be efficient at a number of different driving conditions...Airplane engines really only do one thing...you wind 'em up to cruise power and leave 'em there. A much simpler operating regime, thus its a much simpler engine with less things to go wrong. Cooling drag...Jury is still out on that one but the strong suspicion is there is more cooling drag with a water cooled motor, thus making it slower for the same fuel burn....But as I said the jury is still out on that one. if it is true then it will be worse on a fast airplane than a slow one. Really the only clear advantage of a car engine is the cost of the parts (and thus rebuild costs) are much less...of course no one has put a lot of hours on the reduction gearbox either so its not clear to me how many of those will be needed during the typical 2000 hours. Anyway, just to point out that the old dynosaur motors are that way for a very good reason...i.e they are designed to do exactly what they do very well, more highly adapted for their environment rather than woefully inadequate and outdated. Cheers Frank ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----- From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Terry Wilson Sent: Tuesday, May 01, 2007 4:29 AM To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com Subject: RV7-List: -reply from downunder Hi Larry, I'm a ' 7 builder in South Australia. Ive been interested in your arguments about the big thumper aero engines of yesteryear. I suspect you may be the type of person who may consider the likes of a modern Subaru. I certainly am, and am following up a couple of builders in Melbourne Aust installing Eggenfellner motors. Australian aviation people are in some ways very conservative in only considering the 'traditional' options, so the likes of Subaru in RV size planes is not seen so much over here. I know the cars we drive now have motors that are dramatically more reliable and last more than twice as long as the motors in our cars from the seventies. Why oh why cant our aircraft gurus suggest and accept more up-to-date engines as well. Ive only done my empenage and ready to order wings, but I'm considering engine ideas at this stage as well. My concern with Subaru (read Egg) is back-up etc being such a long distance from the source. I suppose a benefit is that the 2.5 and H6 motors are all over the world and their technology is supported, as in racing circles. The other thing is that Subaru can run with any juice, has lots of engine management options, and tech stuff to run well and last a long time. I'm interested in any thoughts or experiences you have on these things. I dont know much about Continental or Lycoming, except every time I see them in gen aviation they look old tech, sound old tech, use oil by the bucket because of the large tolerances of big air-cooled donks, and seem to have as many problems as any other engines often due to the large stresses of the big slow motors. But if I have to use one to get my plane in the air, I guess Ill just have to do it. Terry Wilson Burra, South Australia. ----- Original Message ----- From: Larry L. Tompkins, P.E.<mailto:tompkinsl(at)integra.net> To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Monday, April 30, 2007 11:26 AM Subject: RV7-List: Continental Engine? Several certificated manufacturers are using the 360 Continental instead of a Lycoming (except Cessna who went the other way). I am curious if anyone has considered and/or installed a Continental 360 in an RV-7. I don't have a good feel for the overall size of the two engines Is the 6 cylinder Continental any smoother than a 90 cubic inch/cylinder Lycoming? I read a lot of discussion about crank/propeller harmonics. All these engines are run pretty slowly compared to auto engines. It seems like power pulses ought to be measurably distinct. Consequently, I especially wonder about the effect on durablility and reliablity when modifications to raise horsepower are performed. They all have to raise BMEP, which in turn has to increase crank rap, increase the loading on the cylinder mounting flange and therefore the engine case, etc. etc.. A three main bearing crank and 6 lobe camshaft may have been great design choices in 1935, but probably not the way someone would design an engine today. I suppose that the bottom line is that the reliablitiy record is very good so I should just plug the Lycoming in, take good care of it and let it take good care of me. Larry Tompkins href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV7-List">http://www.matronhre f="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV7-List">http://www.matronhre f="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com et=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV7-Listp://forums.matroni cs.com href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV7-List">http://www.matronics com/Navigator?RV7-Listhref="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums matronics.com et=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV7-Listp://forums.matroni cs.com http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV7-List gator?RV7-List> ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com>
Subject: Fw: [SoCAL-RVlist] Tools for sale
Date: May 04, 2007
FYI...posting this for Ron Milligan. Looks like some good deals... )_( Dan ----- Original Message ----- From: <ronmilligan(at)cox.net> Sent: Friday, May 04, 2007 6:03 PM Subject: [SoCAL-RVlist] Tools for sale > Sold my RV7 kit a while back and I am just getting around to getting rid > of a few of the not so useful tools. I have a Rolo Flare, Orndorff video, > and a 22" hand dimpler/riveter. Here are the item numbers on on EBay: > > Rolo Flare: 190108072420 > > Video: 190108060992 > > Hand dimpler: 190108075437 > > If someone could post this to the RV7 list I would appreciate it. I no > longer have a subscription. Thanks > > Ron Milligan > > > Yahoo! Groups Links > > <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: >
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/SoCAL-RVlist/ > > <*> Your email settings: > Individual Email | Traditional > > <*> To change settings online go to: > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/SoCAL-RVlist/join > (Yahoo! ID required) > > <*> To change settings via email: > mailto:SoCAL-RVlist-digest(at)yahoogroups.com > mailto:SoCAL-RVlist-fullfeatured(at)yahoogroups.com > > <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: > SoCAL-RVlist-unsubscribe(at)yahoogroups.com > > <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: > http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 04, 2007
From: Bruce Swayze <swayze(at)europa.com>
Subject: Re: A GUIDE TO AIRCRAFT PAINTING & CORROSION CONTROL
Hi Garey, I was going through some old emails and came across this posting of yours. I have a question. Do you still have this information avaiable? Do you, by any chance, have an electronic copy that can be emailed instead of a hard copy? Finally, has your price changed any? thanks, Bruce Swayze RV-7A waiting on wing kit At 03:26 PM 7/16/2005, you wrote: > > > This Information comes from my own research which I >did for > > my RV-8A, which I am building. Information applies >to both Aluminum and Composite aircraft. This is the >3th printing. > > > > --------------- ------------- ------------ > > > > SAVE YOURSELF hundreds of hours of research time and > > building time, by using the comprehensive > > > > "Guide to Painting & Corrosion Control of Aluminum > > and > > Composite Aircraft" > > > > This book took over 600+ hours of research time by > > me, > > a fussy RV-8A Builder. Contains 69 pages of the > > latest, practical information - summarized and > > gathered from MIL Standards, Paint Shops, Builders > > like you (what worked or didn't), Airframe Mfgs, > > etc. > > Covers products from PP&G, Dupont, Sherwin W'ms, > > Sterling, Poly Fiber, Deft, Randolph Paints, PRC De > > Soto, US Paints, Aircraft Finishing Systems, 3M, > > etc. > > > > Some of the Topics covered in the 30 Sections are: > > * Aircraft Paints vs Auto Paints and Other > > Considerations > > * Corrosion Control > > * Spray Guns - selecting, adjusting, using > > and painting problems > > * Brushes / Rollers used with Primers & > > Paints > > * Prep Methods for Painting - Fiberglass, > > Steel and Aluminum > > * Epoxy Primers for Aluminum - MIL & > > Commercial, Solvent & Water Reducible > > * Primers for Fiberglass & Steel > > * Wash Primers & Self Etching Primers > > * Other Primers - Zinc Chromate,Zinc Oxide, > > Enamel > > * Paint Types: MIL & Non MIL Polyurethanes > > Enamel Types > > Acrylics - Lacquers & Enamels > > * Acid Etch / Conversion Coatings (Alodine) > > * Selecting a Paint Shop > > * 3M Cleaning Pads, Liquid Cleaner > > compatibility > > * Paint Booths and their Construction > > * References - MIL Standards & Tech Orders > > * Directory of Aircraft Paint Mfgs, Distrib- > > utors, etc. E-Mail addresses, phone > > numbers, Application Notes > > > > YOUR AIRPLANE is judged by it's Paint Job and it is > > costly too, so have the latest "Information" in order > > to make good decisions. Contains plenty of "Do's" and > > "Don'ts" that save you time, money and frustration. > > > > Send a check for $26 to (includes Postage within the > > US) to: > > > > Garey Wittich RV-8A Builder > > 58 Village Parkway > > Santa Monica, CA. 90405 > > -- ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Lyle Peterson" <lyleap(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Blaine Aviation Weekend
Date: May 05, 2007
This is coming very soon but it should be a great fly-in. EAA Chapter 237 is having a fly-in pancake breakfast and lunch at Anoka County Airport in Blaine, MN on May 19th and 20th Chapter 237's Famous Pancake Breakfast with sausage and beverage runs from 7a.m. to noon and lunch of hamburgers, hot dogs and chili runs until 4p.m. There are two really great aviation museums on the airport. Golden Wings Museum has a collection of beautifully restored vintage airplanes that includes five trimotors. American Wings Air Museum has a collection of warbirds from WWII to Dessert Storm. They also have a Wright Flyer replica, an original 1911 Steco biplane plus many other exhibits. There was a Swift, an Ercoupe, a Luscombe T8-F plus a lot of other vintage airplanes, warbirds and the usual later model airplanes at last year's event. There will be a Hangar Dance Saturday evening with the Sights and Sounds of Dave Andrews Big Band. This has been a lot of fun for everyone that attended in past years. More can be found at www.eaachapter237.org Thank you, Lyle Peterson President, EAA Chapter 237 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "J. Brunke" <jdoody727(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Flap actuator push rods
Date: May 08, 2007
Dear Listers, On the drawing for the electric flap installation, the F759A, flap pushrod has to be drilled out to accept a threaded bolt. It says on my drawing to drill it to #3. A # 3 bit would be kind of large for this tubing. Can anyone please tell me the correct bit number? Thanks, John Brunke RV7 tipup (slowly but surely) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 08, 2007
From: Herb Feldman <hfaz(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Flap actuator push rods
A #3 drill is the correct tap drill for 1/4 - 28 thread. Herb --- "J. Brunke" wrote: > > > Dear Listers, > > On the drawing for the electric flap installation, > the F759A, flap pushrod > has to be drilled out to accept a threaded bolt. > > It says on my drawing to drill it to #3. A # 3 bit > would be kind of large > for this tubing. Can anyone please tell > me the correct bit number? > > Thanks, > John Brunke > RV7 tipup (slowly but surely) > > > > browse > Subscriptions page, > FAQ, > http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV7-List > > Web Forums! > > > > > __________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rafael" <rafael(at)gforcecable.com>
Subject: RV7A vs RV9A
Date: May 09, 2007
Although I've been flying for over 29 years, I'm about to become a new builder. I'm evaluating the merits of the RV9A and the RV7A. My interests are for an airplane that would carry my wife and I on trips from South Carolina to the Midwest and occasionally to the West coast. Aerobatics are not a priority, although, if I build the 7, I would like to dip my toe into this type of flying. A couple of questions: Which airplane makes a better IFR platform? I imagine that the 9 would probably be less responsive (more stable?). Would the 7 behave better in the bumps (higher wing loading). If I build the 7, the 180hp, not available in the 9, would get you higher faster. For the long trips, I would like to add fuel capacity. What's the added cost and weight of adding tip tanks? I've heard of 8.5 gal, giving 55 gal total. Would putting tip tanks on the 7 limit its aerobatic capabilities? This is my first post, so please let me know if this is the kind of questions appropriate for this forum. Thanks and best regards, Rafael ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Konrad L. Werner" <klwerner(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: RV7A vs RV9A
Date: May 09, 2007
Although I've been flying for over 29 years, I'm about to become a new builder. I'm evaluating the merits of the RV9A and the RV7A. My interests are for an airplane that would carry my wife and I on trips from South Carolina to the Midwest and occasionally to the West coast. Aerobatics are not a priority, although, if I build the 7, I would like to dip my toe into this type of flying. A couple of questions: Which airplane makes a better IFR platform? I imagine that the 9 would probably be less responsive (more stable?). Would the 7 behave better in the bumps (higher wing loading). **The -9 would be better for IFR. If I build the 7, the 180hp, not available in the 9, would get you higher faster. **Maybe, but not by much, I would say. The -9 has a pretty efficient wing. For the long trips, I would like to add fuel capacity. What's the added cost and weight of adding tip tanks? I've heard of 8.5 gal, giving 55 gal total. Would putting tip tanks on the 7 limit its aerobatic capabilities? **I don't think that there are commercially available wingtanks available on the -9. I have a Johanssen set for my -6, and I wondered if I should rig one for gas/endurance, and the other for the effects longer endurance has on a humans bladder, if you get my drift ;-) This is my first post, so please let me know if this is the kind of questions appropriate for this forum. **Yes, it sure is appropriate. At least this one has to do with RV related information, which many other post do not anymore. Thanks and best regards, Rafael Enjoy the journey, and welcome! ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "J. Brunke" <jdoody727(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: RV7A vs RV9A
Date: May 09, 2007
Rafael, Welcome to the list. If aerobatics are not a priority have you looked at the RV10? Very roomy with a baggage door that makes loading a breeze. Just flew down to Sun and Fun from the Chicago area in a friend's -10. Basically 5 hours flight time each way with a fuel/bladder stop. Loads of panel space for whatever you want to put in there. I'm building an RV7. Although I will take the occasional long trip with my wife, I mainly want it to go out and play. You can do rolls all day long and more high G manuevers if you feel the need. For me the tail wheel has a lot of appeal since it is different from anything else I've ever flown. It is slightly more challenging because it's different. Not any harder, just different. The best part of all this is you have lots of choices. It all depends what you really want to do. There's also a lot of information out on the web. Some make it sound like their way is the only way. As a builder, you can do what is comfortable for you, financially and safety wise. Best of luck on your project, John Brunke St. Charles, IL RV7 tip-up in progress ----- Original Message ----- From: Rafael To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Wednesday, May 09, 2007 6:18 PM Subject: RV7-List: RV7A vs RV9A Although I've been flying for over 29 years, I'm about to become a new builder. I'm evaluating the merits of the RV9A and the RV7A. My interests are for an airplane that would carry my wife and I on trips from South Carolina to the Midwest and occasionally to the West coast. Aerobatics are not a priority, although, if I build the 7, I would like to dip my toe into this type of flying. A couple of questions: Which airplane makes a better IFR platform? I imagine that the 9 would probably be less responsive (more stable?). Would the 7 behave better in the bumps (higher wing loading). If I build the 7, the 180hp, not available in the 9, would get you higher faster. For the long trips, I would like to add fuel capacity. What's the added cost and weight of adding tip tanks? I've heard of 8.5 gal, giving 55 gal total. Would putting tip tanks on the 7 limit its aerobatic capabilities? This is my first post, so please let me know if this is the kind of questions appropriate for this forum. Thanks and best regards, Rafael ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 09, 2007
From: "James Clark" <jclarkmail(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV7A vs RV9A
Rafael, Where is SC are you? If you are ever in the Columbia area, we probably can arrange for you to see an RV9A, RV6's, maybe RV7A, several RV7s under construction, an although you did not reference such maybe an RV4 under construction and an RV10 just getting started. Probably could rustle up a ride as well. Now to your questions ... I think you have received good answers already but ask yourself the following ... 1. Will MOST of my flying be cross-country? 2. Will I EVER want to do aerobatics? Both planes fly quite nicely. The stick forces on the 9(A) is a bit "heavier" as you get farther into the roll to one side or the other but it still flies "like an RV". James On 5/9/07, Rafael wrote: > > Although I've been flying for over 29 years, I'm about to become a new > builder. I'm evaluating the merits of the RV9A and the RV7A. My interests > are for an airplane that would carry my wife and I on trips from South > Carolina to the Midwest and occasionally to the West coast. Aerobatics are > not a priority, although, if I build the 7, I would like to dip my toe into > this type of flying. > > > A couple of questions: > > > Which airplane makes a better IFR platform? I imagine that the 9 would > probably be less responsive (more stable?). Would the 7 behave better in > the bumps (higher wing loading). > > > If I build the 7, the 180hp, not available in the 9, would get you higher > faster. > > > For the long trips, I would like to add fuel capacity. What's the added > cost and weight of adding tip tanks? I've heard of 8.5 gal, giving 55 gal > total. Would putting tip tanks on the 7 limit its aerobatic capabilities? > > > This is my first post, so please let me know if this is the kind of > questions appropriate for this forum. > > > Thanks and best regards, > > > Rafael > > > * > > > * > > -- This is an alternate email. Please continue to email me at james(at)nextupventures.com . ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 10, 2007
From: Carl Peters <say.ahh1(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: RV7A vs RV9A
Both will give you immense joy. Last year, I pondered the same Q's. Both have the same fuselage, but empennage and especially the wings are different. That being said... RV-9 pros - Perhaps a little more stable IFR platform. Better glide ratio. Lands at lower trainer like speeds. Personally, I like the aesthetics of the longer wing. Largest engine (O-320/150-160hp) is ubiquitous on the used (and new) market. RV-7 pros - Aerobatics of the "gentleman" type. This was my biggest hurdle - do I potentially want to do some down the road?? I decided not, but you always have the potential with the -7 (though I know folks who have admitted doing rolls and even loops in the -9, but great care is needed to avoid overloading the frame as with any utility category craft). A little faster with a bigger engine, but also a little more fuel burn for that increased speed (research I've done shows a slightly throttled back RV-7/O-360/180hp flying the same speed as an RV-9/O-320/160hp will have almost the exact fuel burn. This was also corroborated by a Van's engineer to me. Dan Checkoway's wonderful machine excepted : ) ). Bigger engine choices - though not really a big deal. Quite a few RV-9's with O-360's - just be very cognizant of Vne. Possible resale advantage with the RV-7 due to higher popularity and aerobatic capability. I chose the -9 for a cross-country platform and lack of interest in aerobatics, and frankly I like its looks more with the higher stance on the tri-gear and longer wing. Really try and get a ride in each, and play with some aerobatics in the -7. If there is a chance you want to yank and bank, your decision is made (though a demo ride in a -9 showed it could be jerked around just fine short of defined aerobatics). As an IFR platform, a good autopilot will help for the small decrease in stability - many folks have used their -7's IFR/Xcountry successfully. Carl RV-9A wings ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rafael" <rafael(at)gforcecable.com>
Subject: RV7A vs RV9A
Date: May 11, 2007
Thank you very much for this and other replies to my inquiry. Carl's statement, "just be very cognizant of Vne" raised my eyebrows a bit. I looked for Vne numbers for the 7A and the 9A in Van's website, but could not find them. Does anyone have the Vne numbers on the 7A and 9A. Best regards, Rafael -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Carl Peters Sent: Thursday, May 10, 2007 11:20 PM Subject: Re: RV7-List: RV7A vs RV9A Both will give you immense joy. Last year, I pondered the same Q's. Both have the same fuselage, but empennage and especially the wings are different. That being said... RV-9 pros - Perhaps a little more stable IFR platform. Better glide ratio. Lands at lower trainer like speeds. Personally, I like the aesthetics of the longer wing. Largest engine (O-320/150-160hp) is ubiquitous on the used (and new) market. RV-7 pros - Aerobatics of the "gentleman" type. This was my biggest hurdle - do I potentially want to do some down the road?? I decided not, but you always have the potential with the -7 (though I know folks who have admitted doing rolls and even loops in the -9, but great care is needed to avoid overloading the frame as with any utility category craft). A little faster with a bigger engine, but also a little more fuel burn for that increased speed (research I've done shows a slightly throttled back RV-7/O-360/180hp flying the same speed as an RV-9/O-320/160hp will have almost the exact fuel burn. This was also corroborated by a Van's engineer to me. Dan Checkoway's wonderful machine excepted : ) ). Bigger engine choices - though not really a big deal. Quite a few RV-9's with O-360's - just be very cognizant of Vne. Possible resale advantage with the RV-7 due to higher popularity and aerobatic capability. I chose the -9 for a cross-country platform and lack of interest in aerobatics, and frankly I like its looks more with the higher stance on the tri-gear and longer wing. Really try and get a ride in each, and play with some aerobatics in the -7. If there is a chance you want to yank and bank, your decision is made (though a demo ride in a -9 showed it could be jerked around just fine short of defined aerobatics). As an IFR platform, a good autopilot will help for the small decrease in stability - many folks have used their -7's IFR/Xcountry successfully. Carl RV-9A wings ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Paul Watson" <pwatsonfnp(at)comcast.net>
Subject: RV7A vs RV9A
Date: May 11, 2007
RV7 Vne is 230mph. Not sure about the9. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rafael Sent: Friday, May 11, 2007 4:45 AM Subject: RE: RV7-List: RV7A vs RV9A Thank you very much for this and other replies to my inquiry. Carl's statement, "just be very cognizant of Vne" raised my eyebrows a bit. I looked for Vne numbers for the 7A and the 9A in Van's website, but could not find them. Does anyone have the Vne numbers on the 7A and 9A. Best regards, Rafael -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Carl Peters Sent: Thursday, May 10, 2007 11:20 PM Subject: Re: RV7-List: RV7A vs RV9A Both will give you immense joy. Last year, I pondered the same Q's. Both have the same fuselage, but empennage and especially the wings are different. That being said... RV-9 pros - Perhaps a little more stable IFR platform. Better glide ratio. Lands at lower trainer like speeds. Personally, I like the aesthetics of the longer wing. Largest engine (O-320/150-160hp) is ubiquitous on the used (and new) market. RV-7 pros - Aerobatics of the "gentleman" type. This was my biggest hurdle - do I potentially want to do some down the road?? I decided not, but you always have the potential with the -7 (though I know folks who have admitted doing rolls and even loops in the -9, but great care is needed to avoid overloading the frame as with any utility category craft). A little faster with a bigger engine, but also a little more fuel burn for that increased speed (research I've done shows a slightly throttled back RV-7/O-360/180hp flying the same speed as an RV-9/O-320/160hp will have almost the exact fuel burn. This was also corroborated by a Van's engineer to me. Dan Checkoway's wonderful machine excepted : ) ). Bigger engine choices - though not really a big deal. Quite a few RV-9's with O-360's - just be very cognizant of Vne. Possible resale advantage with the RV-7 due to higher popularity and aerobatic capability. I chose the -9 for a cross-country platform and lack of interest in aerobatics, and frankly I like its looks more with the higher stance on the tri-gear and longer wing. Really try and get a ride in each, and play with some aerobatics in the -7. If there is a chance you want to yank and bank, your decision is made (though a demo ride in a -9 showed it could be jerked around just fine short of defined aerobatics). As an IFR platform, a good autopilot will help for the small decrease in stability - many folks have used their -7's IFR/Xcountry successfully. Carl RV-9A wings ________________________________________________________________________________
From: William Bell <wmlbell(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: RV7-List Digest: 2 Msgs - 05/11/07
Date: May 12, 2007
I am building an RV-7A and the Vne speeds can be found in the construction manual in Section 15, Final Inspection and Flight Test, in the Flutter Testing paragraphs. Mine are on page 15-20 although the pages could be different for other manuals. According to the construction manual, RV 7/7A/8/8A the Vne is 230 statute miles per hour and 190 statute mph for the RV-9A. On May 12, 2007, at 2:57 AM, RV7-List Digest Server wrote: > * > > ================================================= > Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive > ================================================= > > Today's complete RV7-List Digest can also be found in either of the > two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest > formatted > in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked > Indexes > and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII > version > of the RV7-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic text editor > such as Notepad or with a web browser. > > HTML Version: > > http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php? > Style=82701&View=html&Chapter 07-05-11&Archive=RV7 > > Text Version: > > http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php? > Style=82701&View=txt&Chapter 07-05-11&Archive=RV7 > > > =============================================== > EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive > =============================================== > > > ---------------------------------------------------------- > RV7-List Digest Archive > --- > Total Messages Posted Fri 05/11/07: 2 > ---------------------------------------------------------- > > > Today's Message Index: > ---------------------- > > 1. 04:46 AM - Re: RV7A vs RV9A (Rafael) > 2. 06:30 AM - Re: RV7A vs RV9A (Paul Watson) > > > ________________________________ Message 1 > _____________________________________ > > > From: "Rafael" <rafael(at)gforcecable.com> > Subject: RE: RV7-List: RV7A vs RV9A > > > Thank you very much for this and other replies to my inquiry. > > Carl's statement, "just be very cognizant of Vne" raised my > eyebrows a bit. > I looked for Vne numbers for the 7A and the 9A in Van's website, > but could > not find them. > > Does anyone have the Vne numbers on the 7A and 9A. > > Best regards, > > Rafael > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Carl Peters > Sent: Thursday, May 10, 2007 11:20 PM > Subject: Re: RV7-List: RV7A vs RV9A > > > Both will give you immense joy. Last year, I pondered the same Q's. > Both > have the same fuselage, but empennage and especially the wings are > different. > That being said... > > RV-9 pros - Perhaps a little more stable IFR platform. Better glide > ratio. Lands at lower trainer like speeds. Personally, I like the > aesthetics of the longer wing. Largest engine (O-320/150-160hp) is > ubiquitous on the used (and new) market. > > RV-7 pros - Aerobatics of the "gentleman" type. This was my biggest > hurdle - do I potentially want to do some down the road?? I decided > not, > but you always have the potential with the -7 (though I know folks who > have admitted doing rolls and even loops in the -9, but great care is > needed to avoid overloading the frame as with any utility category > craft). A little faster with a bigger engine, but also a little more > fuel burn for that increased speed (research I've done shows a > slightly > throttled back RV-7/O-360/180hp flying the same speed as an > RV-9/O-320/160hp will have almost the exact fuel burn. This was also > corroborated by a Van's engineer to me. Dan Checkoway's wonderful > machine excepted : ) ). Bigger engine choices - though not really a > big > deal. Quite a few RV-9's with O-360's - just be very cognizant of > Vne. > Possible resale advantage with the RV-7 due to higher popularity and > aerobatic capability. > > I chose the -9 for a cross-country platform and lack of interest in > aerobatics, and frankly I like its looks more with the higher > stance on > the tri-gear and longer wing. Really try and get a ride in each, and > play with some aerobatics in the -7. If there is a chance you want to > yank and bank, your decision is made (though a demo ride in a -9 > showed > it could be jerked around just fine short of defined aerobatics). > As an > IFR platform, a good autopilot will help for the small decrease in > stability - many folks have used their -7's IFR/Xcountry successfully. > > Carl > RV-9A wings > > > ________________________________ Message 2 > _____________________________________ > > > From: "Paul Watson" <pwatsonfnp(at)comcast.net> > Subject: RE: RV7-List: RV7A vs RV9A > > > RV7 Vne is 230mph. Not sure about the9. > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rafael > Sent: Friday, May 11, 2007 4:45 AM > Subject: RE: RV7-List: RV7A vs RV9A > > > Thank you very much for this and other replies to my inquiry. > > Carl's statement, "just be very cognizant of Vne" raised my > eyebrows a bit. > I looked for Vne numbers for the 7A and the 9A in Van's website, > but could > not find them. > > Does anyone have the Vne numbers on the 7A and 9A. > > Best regards, > > Rafael > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Carl Peters > Sent: Thursday, May 10, 2007 11:20 PM > Subject: Re: RV7-List: RV7A vs RV9A > > > Both will give you immense joy. Last year, I pondered the same Q's. > Both > have the same fuselage, but empennage and especially the wings are > different. > That being said... > > RV-9 pros - Perhaps a little more stable IFR platform. Better glide > ratio. Lands at lower trainer like speeds. Personally, I like the > aesthetics of the longer wing. Largest engine (O-320/150-160hp) is > ubiquitous on the used (and new) market. > > RV-7 pros - Aerobatics of the "gentleman" type. This was my biggest > hurdle - do I potentially want to do some down the road?? I decided > not, > but you always have the potential with the -7 (though I know folks who > have admitted doing rolls and even loops in the -9, but great care is > needed to avoid overloading the frame as with any utility category > craft). A little faster with a bigger engine, but also a little more > fuel burn for that increased speed (research I've done shows a > slightly > throttled back RV-7/O-360/180hp flying the same speed as an > RV-9/O-320/160hp will have almost the exact fuel burn. This was also > corroborated by a Van's engineer to me. Dan Checkoway's wonderful > machine excepted : ) ). Bigger engine choices - though not really a > big > deal. Quite a few RV-9's with O-360's - just be very cognizant of > Vne. > Possible resale advantage with the RV-7 due to higher popularity and > aerobatic capability. > > I chose the -9 for a cross-country platform and lack of interest in > aerobatics, and frankly I like its looks more with the higher > stance on > the tri-gear and longer wing. Really try and get a ride in each, and > play with some aerobatics in the -7. If there is a chance you want to > yank and bank, your decision is made (though a demo ride in a -9 > showed > it could be jerked around just fine short of defined aerobatics). > As an > IFR platform, a good autopilot will help for the small decrease in > stability - many folks have used their -7's IFR/Xcountry successfully. > > Carl > RV-9A wings > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rafael" <rafael(at)gforcecable.com>
Subject: Initial biuld decisions
Date: May 12, 2007
First of all, I thank all who provided me with input in making the decision between a 9A and 7A. I have decided to build the 7A. It has not been an easy decision. Basically the balance tilted towards the 7 after considering the Vne and the added performance with the 360 engine. Now I would like help with a couple of other decisions. First, IO-360 vs O-360. I was leaning heavily towards the injected engine, carburetor heat being the issue. However, after attending an EAA meeting this morning and talking to an RV-8 builder with a beautiful 8A with an O-360, I'm no longer sure. What advantages does the fuel injection have? Performance? Reliability? Ease of installation? Maintenance? Any other? I believe cost and weight penalty are close for either engine. The other decision is between Constant Speed and Fixed Pitch prop. It is my understanding that the CS will provided better takeoff and climb figures and marginally better cruise performance. I'm wondering if this performance is worth the extra $6500 or so for the CS. I'm leaning towards the FP implementation, but I would like to hear comments. Thanks and best regards to all, Rafael ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Initial biuld decisions
Date: May 12, 2007
From: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde(at)hp.com>
FI is more efficient and shows up most when running lean of peak (LOP). this can be a saving in the order of 1.5GPH at cruise. Carb heat is the big one, not really required on the FI but Vans does have a rudimentry warm air system...Just in case. FP vs CS...depends on if the extra 300FPM its worth it to ya....Resale value is higher of course with a CS...and there is the "cool" factor...:).. I belive stopping distances are improved with the CS as well. Frank ________________________________ From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rafael Sent: Saturday, May 12, 2007 1:11 PM Subject: RV7-List: Initial biuld decisions First of all, I thank all who provided me with input in making the decision between a 9A and 7A. I have decided to build the 7A. It has not been an easy decision. Basically the balance tilted towards the 7 after considering the Vne and the added performance with the 360 engine. Now I would like help with a couple of other decisions. First, IO-360 vs O-360. I was leaning heavily towards the injected engine, carburetor heat being the issue. However, after attending an EAA meeting this morning and talking to an RV-8 builder with a beautiful 8A with an O-360, I'm no longer sure. What advantages does the fuel injection have? Performance? Reliability? Ease of installation? Maintenance? Any other? I believe cost and weight penalty are close for either engine. The other decision is between Constant Speed and Fixed Pitch prop. It is my understanding that the CS will provided better takeoff and climb figures and marginally better cruise performance. I'm wondering if this performance is worth the extra $6500 or so for the CS. I'm leaning towards the FP implementation, but I would like to hear comments. Thanks and best regards to all, Rafael ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Mark Taylor <mtaylo17(at)msn.com>
Subject: Initial biuld decisions
Date: May 12, 2007
I went with a constant speed prop for my IOF-360. It's great for descents t oo as you don't have to worry about overspeeding your engine. Just push the nose forward and go for it! When you throttle back with a constant speed p rop, it's like putting the brakes on which is also nice coming into the pat tern at warp factor 7. Just before you enter, throttle back and you'll be a t pattern speed before you know it. Mine's a three blade MT BTW. It's not a s fast in cruise. Mark www.4sierratango.com From: rafael(at)gforcecable.comTo: rv9-list(at)matronics.com; rv7-list(at)matronics. comSubject: RV7-List: Initial biuld decisionsDate: Sat, 12 May 2007 16:10:3 First of all, I thank all who provided me with input in making the decision between a 9A and 7A. I have decided to build the 7A. It has not been an easy decision. Basically the balance tilted towards the 7 after considerin g the Vne and the added performance with the 360 engine. Now I would like help with a couple of other decisions. First, IO-360 vs O -360. I was leaning heavily towards the injected engine, carburetor heat b eing the issue. However, after attending an EAA meeting this morning and t alking to an RV-8 builder with a beautiful 8A with an O-360, I=92m no longe r sure. What advantages does the fuel injection have? Performance? Relia bility? Ease of installation? Maintenance? Any other? I believe cost and weight penalty are close for either engine. The other decision is between Constant Speed and Fixed Pitch prop. It is m y understanding that the CS will provided better takeoff and climb figures and marginally better cruise performance. I=92m wondering if this performa nce is worth the extra $6500 or so for the CS. I=92m leaning towards the F P implementation, but I would like to hear comments. Thanks and best regards to all, Rafael ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Frank Stringham" <fstringham(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Initial biuld decisions
Date: May 12, 2007
Rafeal When I started my project (Sept 2004) I wasn't sure what I wanted. But as the project unfolded I decided (very slowly) to turn a Van's quick/light/simple flyer into a mega buck high speed/leading edge technically/very costly RV7A......ECI Titan IO360/cold air induction/FI/EI/ALL GLASS-Electric Panel/WhirlWind 200RV CS prop/custom interior.................$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$. I just coundn't resist...........Now if I build another RV It is going to be built simple/light weight/night VFR/less costly...... I know those that are flying can give better stats on the difference in the all important velocity factor between a simple and complex craft.....but....I believe one would get as much utiliy out of a less costly simple plane as compared to the 777 that some of us are trying to build. Good Luck in your build/decided on your mission/and have fun!!!! Frank @ SGU RV7A 'NDY" >From: "Rafael" <rafael(at)gforcecable.com> >Reply-To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com >To: , >Subject: RV7-List: Initial biuld decisions >Date: Sat, 12 May 2007 16:10:32 -0400 > >First of all, I thank all who provided me with input in making the decision >between a 9A and 7A. I have decided to build the 7A. It has not been an >easy decision. Basically the balance tilted towards the 7 after >considering >the Vne and the added performance with the 360 engine. > > >Now I would like help with a couple of other decisions. First, IO-360 vs >O-360. I was leaning heavily towards the injected engine, carburetor heat >being the issue. However, after attending an EAA meeting this morning and >talking to an RV-8 builder with a beautiful 8A with an O-360, I'm no longer >sure. What advantages does the fuel injection have? Performance? >Reliability? Ease of installation? Maintenance? Any other? I believe >cost >and weight penalty are close for either engine. > > >The other decision is between Constant Speed and Fixed Pitch prop. It is >my >understanding that the CS will provided better takeoff and climb figures >and >marginally better cruise performance. I'm wondering if this performance is >worth the extra $6500 or so for the CS. I'm leaning towards the FP >implementation, but I would like to hear comments. > > >Thanks and best regards to all, > > >Rafael > _________________________________________________________________ Catch suspicious messages before you open themwith Windows Live Hotmail. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 12, 2007
From: "Richard E. Tasker" <retasker(at)optonline.net>
Subject: RV7A vs RV9A
I don't know what it is for the 9/9A, but it has to be higher than your number as the top speed (solo) with a 160hp engine is listed as 197mph.on Van's website. I am quite sure that Van would not list a top speed higher than Vne! Dick Tasker William Bell wrote: > > I am building an RV-7A and the Vne speeds can be found in the > construction manual in Section 15, Final Inspection and Flight Test, > in the Flutter Testing paragraphs. Mine are on page 15-20 although > the pages could be different for other manuals. According to the > construction manual, RV 7/7A/8/8A the Vne is 230 statute miles per > hour and 190 statute mph for the RV-9A. -- Please Note: No trees were destroyed in the sending of this message. We do concede, however, that a significant number of electrons may have been temporarily inconvenienced. -- ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 12, 2007
From: Carl Peters <say.ahh1(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: RV7A vs RV9ARV7A vs RV9A
RV-9 Vne is 210 mph. Here is a link from Van's discussing Vne and flutter - http://www.vansaircraft.com/pdf/hp_limts.pdf . Carl ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rafael" <rafael(at)gforcecable.com>
Subject: RV7A vs RV9A
Date: May 13, 2007
James, I'm in Aiken, SC. I would absolutely love to take a look at the projects and would gladly pay all expenses for a ride in an RV. I'm retired, so any time any day is convenient for me. My decision once more changes to the 9A over the 7A. Last night a voice kept telling me: Keep It Simple Stupid! After running a spread sheet with the number$, a 9A with a fixed pitch prop, and an O-320 engine would plenty of airplane for me. My cell # (803)292-7410 _____ From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of James Clark Sent: Wednesday, May 09, 2007 11:12 PM Subject: Re: RV7-List: RV7A vs RV9A Rafael, Where is SC are you? If you are ever in the Columbia area, we probably can arrange for you to see an RV9A, RV6's, maybe RV7A, several RV7s under construction, an although you did not reference such maybe an RV4 under construction and an RV10 just getting started. Probably could rustle up a ride as well. Now to your questions ... I think you have received good answers already but ask yourself the following ... 1. Will MOST of my flying be cross-country? 2. Will I EVER want to do aerobatics? Both planes fly quite nicely. The stick forces on the 9(A) is a bit "heavier" as you get farther into the roll to one side or the other but it still flies "like an RV". James On 5/9/07, Rafael wrote: Although I've been flying for over 29 years, I'm about to become a new builder. I'm evaluating the merits of the RV9A and the RV7A. My interests are for an airplane that would carry my wife and I on trips from South Carolina to the Midwest and occasionally to the West coast. Aerobatics are not a priority, although, if I build the 7, I would like to dip my toe into this type of flying. A couple of questions: Which airplane makes a better IFR platform? I imagine that the 9 would probably be less responsive (more stable?). Would the 7 behave better in the bumps (higher wing loading). If I build the 7, the 180hp, not available in the 9, would get you higher faster. For the long trips, I would like to add fuel capacity. What's the added cost and weight of adding tip tanks? I've heard of 8.5 gal, giving 55 gal total. Would putting tip tanks on the 7 limit its aerobatic capabilities? This is my first post, so please let me know if this is the kind of questions appropriate for this forum. Thanks and best regards, Rafael http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV7-List http://forums.matronics.com james(at)nextupventures.com . ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Michael D. Cencula" <matronics(at)cencula.com>
Subject: Re: Initial biuld decisions
Date: May 13, 2007
I've been wondering some of the same things as Rafael, but would like to add one more question: When selecting an engine, does the choice of fixed pitch vs CS have any bearing on choosing Dynafocal I vs. Dynafocal II? I read a posting on this list that indicated Dynafocal II was intended for CS props. The argument was that the center of mass is further forward on a CS installation, so the focus of the mounts is further forward to match that and reduce vibration. Is this actually true? I've been able to find no other info to back this up, although I have found quite a few people flying Dynafocal I motors with CS props (which would seem to contradict the posting). The posting is here in case anyone wants to read it: http://www.matronics.com/searching/getmsg_script.cgi?INDEX=5148244?KEYS=dynafocal_&_engine_&_code?LISTNAME=RV?HITNUMBER=8?SERIAL=07422721769?SHOWBUTTONS=YES Thanks, Mike Cencula On Saturday May 12 2007 04:10 pm, Rafael wrote: > First of all, I thank all who provided me with input in making the decision > between a 9A and 7A. I have decided to build the 7A. It has not been an > easy decision. Basically the balance tilted towards the 7 after > considering the Vne and the added performance with the 360 engine. > > > Now I would like help with a couple of other decisions. First, IO-360 vs > O-360. I was leaning heavily towards the injected engine, carburetor heat > being the issue. However, after attending an EAA meeting this morning and > talking to an RV-8 builder with a beautiful 8A with an O-360, I'm no longer > sure. What advantages does the fuel injection have? Performance? > Reliability? Ease of installation? Maintenance? Any other? I believe > cost and weight penalty are close for either engine. > > > The other decision is between Constant Speed and Fixed Pitch prop. It is > my understanding that the CS will provided better takeoff and climb figures > and marginally better cruise performance. I'm wondering if this > performance is worth the extra $6500 or so for the CS. I'm leaning towards > the FP implementation, but I would like to hear comments. > > > Thanks and best regards to all, > > > Rafael ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "sportypilot" <sportypilot(at)stx.rr.com>
Subject: Initial biuld decisions
Date: May 13, 2007
Dynafocal I is the standard engine case type where the engine connects To the engine mount, conical is the older style engine cases and they Can be converted to dynafocal I for about 400.00 at places like ECI, Dynafocal II was an oddball engine type done on a few factory type Aircraft, these choices have nothing to do with CS or fixed pitch Crankshafts, those differences are only if the crankshaft has a Hollow end on the crankshaft.. Vans sells all three mounts,but they Will Make you sign a not return form for the conical or Dynafocal II Engine mounts.. I would stick with the dynafocal I mount and you still Can buy an engine that has the hollow crankshaft and use a fixed pitch Prop (it takes plugs in the end of the crank) and later you can move Up to constant speed prop when you can afford it.. having options is A good thing.. these items are in the preview plans.. if you have them Danny.. I've been wondering some of the same things as Rafael, but would like to add one more question: When selecting an engine, does the choice of fixed pitch vs CS have any bearing on choosing Dynafocal I vs. Dynafocal II? I read a posting on this list that indicated Dynafocal II was intended for CS props. The argument was that the center of mass is further forward on a CS installation, so the focus of the mounts is further forward to match that and reduce vibration. Is this actually true? I've been able to find no other info to back this up, although I have found quite a few people flying Dynafocal I motors with CS props (which would seem to contradict the posting). The posting is here in case anyone wants to read it: http://www.matronics.com/searching/getmsg_script.cgi?INDEX=5148244?KEYS=dyna focal_&_engine_&_code?LISTNAME=RV?HITNUMBER=8?SERIAL=07422721769?SHOWBUTTONS =YES Thanks, Mike Cencula On Saturday May 12 2007 04:10 pm, Rafael wrote: > First of all, I thank all who provided me with input in making the decision > between a 9A and 7A. I have decided to build the 7A. It has not been an > easy decision. Basically the balance tilted towards the 7 after > considering the Vne and the added performance with the 360 engine. > > > Now I would like help with a couple of other decisions. First, IO-360 vs > O-360. I was leaning heavily towards the injected engine, carburetor heat > being the issue. However, after attending an EAA meeting this morning and > talking to an RV-8 builder with a beautiful 8A with an O-360, I'm no longer > sure. What advantages does the fuel injection have? Performance? > Reliability? Ease of installation? Maintenance? Any other? I believe > cost and weight penalty are close for either engine. > > > The other decision is between Constant Speed and Fixed Pitch prop. It is > my understanding that the CS will provided better takeoff and climb figures > and marginally better cruise performance. I'm wondering if this > performance is worth the extra $6500 or so for the CS. I'm leaning towards > the FP implementation, but I would like to hear comments. > > > Thanks and best regards to all, > > > Rafael ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 13, 2007
From: Carl Peters <say.ahh1(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Initial biuld decisions
I posted this on the RV-9 list as you posted your query there, too. Rafael, A couple things: 1) Regarding Vne and the O-360, it shouldn't be a big deal with the RV-9. There are quite a few O-360 powered -9's out there, and you won't flirt with Vne in cruise. The only time it would be an issue is in a dive/descent, a small part of your time flying. One will need to watch for Vne with both the O-360 or O-320 in a descent - the former will make it a bit easier to get close in a more shallow descent. Just throttle back, that's it. The attention to this is no different than other critical areas of flight, such as the landing. 2) Between the O- and IO-360, there are many threads on this in the archives for the various forums. Weight will be a non issue. The injected models main advantage IMHO is to run lean of peak and achieve 1 gph improvement in fuel burn. A more balanced fuel mixture to each cylinder is possible. You don't have to worry about carb icing. But, there is some complexity, higher fuel line pressures, need for a return fuel line to a tank and more expensive fuel selector, more difficult hot starts. There are others on these forums that have much more real world info since I'm still a builder. 3) FP vs CS prop - this is one of the the top three debates that rage amongst the OBAM market (along with to prime or not, slider vs tip-up, etc). I'm still deciding on that one, and have a year still to worry. Frankly, I'm leaning toward an FP - lighter weight, MUCH cheaper, less maintenance/overhaul issues. Craig Catto builds a beautiful 3 blade prop that I have flown behind in a -9 - smooth, excellent craftmanship, and costs $1800. He (and other manufacturers) can set you up with a prop that is coarse pitched that will give you Van's cruise numbers. Comparing performance numbers from various builders shows cruise numbers about equal between a properly configured cruise FP vs a CS. You will sacrifice climb rate/takeoff distance a bit, so if you fly into hot and high or short fields all the time, then you need to re-think this. But honestly, I do all my flying in Illinois and elsewhere into airports with at least 3500' strips - really look at Van's T/O and landing numbers with a FP prop in the -9. There are few places where you can't go that a CS will make a difference. On the flip side a CS resell may be better, especially with the -7. Acro and formation flying have some benefit with a CS. One thing against the FP is slowing down and descent rate. Coming into the pattern and trying to slow down takes a little more forethought and earlier energy management with the FP, since the CS can give a little drag when in fine pitch and help out. This is particularly so with the -9. Basically, I think the argument is a little silly, as some practice will make you competent. I fly a Dakota with a CS, but have no trouble when I grab the glider-like Diamond DA-20 with FP after practicing with it a little once or twice. So, for me, I'll likely go with the FP and use the $5000 saved over the CS for about 1500 gal of avgas. That's quite a few cross-country trips! Carl ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "J. Brunke" <jdoody727(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Initial biuld decisions
Date: May 14, 2007
Dear Carl, In your well written response you wrote: > there is some complexity, higher fuel line pressures, need for a return > fuel line to a tank and more expensive fuel selector, more difficult hot > starts. In my search for engines that started at Sun and Fun, I specifically asked the fuel return question to most of the engine sales people. Aerosport and Mattituck both said a return line is not needed in their fuel injection systems. I can't remember the response of the other engine groups, but reducing complexity is probably better for sales. I always assumed one would be required also. That eliminates some of the complexity issue and relief for me since I had already sealed up my tanks. That also means a less expensive fuel selector, so that might bring the injection system somewhat closer in price to the carb system. As for the hot start issue that could be a problem. Lycoming is now selling non certified engines and Jon ( the project manager, sorry I can't remember his last name), showed me a return loop that ties into the fuel line between the tank and the electric fuel pump. You run that for a few seconds and it cycles colder fuel foward of the firewall. That should solve the hot start issue. That adds complexity and on the fuel injected airplane I owned at one time, I would just open the oil filler door after landing and that seemed to work well to cool things down. During one quick fuel stop we landed, pulled up to the pumps, the FBO filled her up, we paid, and got right out of there. It started right up and it had been shut down for no more than 15 minutes. And that was in the middle of summer. OAT around 85 F. Sincerely, John Brunke ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Initial biuld decisions
Date: May 14, 2007
From: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde(at)hp.com>
You could easily add an Airflow Performance "dump valve" to just about any FI system. This simply needs a return to either tank. It is only used to purge the hot fuel from firewall forward doing a hot start. It works, adds very little complexity and does not require any change to the standard selector valve. Frank -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of J. Brunke Sent: Monday, May 14, 2007 6:55 AM Subject: Re: RV7-List: Initial biuld decisions Dear Carl, In your well written response you wrote: > there is some complexity, higher fuel line pressures, need for a > return fuel line to a tank and more expensive fuel selector, more > difficult hot starts. In my search for engines that started at Sun and Fun, I specifically asked the fuel return question to most of the engine sales people. Aerosport and Mattituck both said a return line is not needed in their fuel injection systems. I can't remember the response of the other engine groups, but reducing complexity is probably better for sales. I always assumed one would be required also. That eliminates some of the complexity issue and relief for me since I had already sealed up my tanks. That also means a less expensive fuel selector, so that might bring the injection system somewhat closer in price to the carb system. As for the hot start issue that could be a problem. Lycoming is now selling non certified engines and Jon ( the project manager, sorry I can't remember his last name), showed me a return loop that ties into the fuel line between the tank and the electric fuel pump. You run that for a few seconds and it cycles colder fuel foward of the firewall. That should solve the hot start issue. That adds complexity and on the fuel injected airplane I owned at one time, I would just open the oil filler door after landing and that seemed to work well to cool things down. During one quick fuel stop we landed, pulled up to the pumps, the FBO filled her up, we paid, and got right out of there. It started right up and it had been shut down for no more than 15 minutes. And that was in the middle of summer. OAT around 85 F. Sincerely, John Brunke ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 15, 2007
From: Carl Peters <say.ahh1(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Initial biuld decisions
Good to know on the fuel return issue not being mandatory with some makers - thanks for the correction. And no expensive Andair valve. There was a thread in VAF about FI hot starts and all the tips from flyers did point to being not too great an issue even without a dump or return line. To blur things further, there are those with carb engines that do run LOP - Pete Howell just posted on the RV-9-list about doing this with an engine monitor. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 17, 2007
From: Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Initial biuld decisions
Michael D. Cencula wrote: > > I've been wondering some of the same things as Rafael, but would like to add > one more question: > > When selecting an engine, does the choice of fixed pitch vs CS have any > bearing on choosing Dynafocal I vs. Dynafocal II? > > I read a posting on this list that indicated Dynafocal II was intended for CS > props. The argument was that the center of mass is further forward on a CS > installation, so the focus of the mounts is further forward to match that and > reduce vibration. > > Is this actually true? I've been able to find no other info to back this up, > although I have found quite a few people flying Dynafocal I motors with CS > props (which would seem to contradict the posting). > > The posting is here in case anyone wants to read it: > > http://www.matronics.com/searching/getmsg_script.cgi?INDEX=5148244?KEYS=dynafocal_&_engine_&_code?LISTNAME=RV?HITNUMBER=8?SERIAL=07422721769?SHOWBUTTONS=YES > > Thanks, > > Mike Cencula > snipped Dyna II was created for certain twins using extended hub props. I called Van's tech help a couple of months ago, trying to determine if I could order my finish kit without a specific engine selected. One thing they told me was that the type II mount is no longer available due to non-existent demand. You might want to verify that directly with Van's. Charlie (anybody with a mid-time x-360x they want to part with?) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "jkrowe.1(at)netzero.net" <jkrowe.1(at)netzero.net>
Date: May 20, 2007
Subject: Interior upholstery
I was looking at the finished planes on the "Hobbs Meter" on Van's websi te. I noticed two really sweet looking interiors. One plane was owned by Michael Brewton and the other by Daniel Snow. Michael or Daniel, if you get this, I would love to know who did your interior, you've got rea lly nice looking planes. If anyone knows either of these two guys and w ouldn't mind forwarding me their email so that I could find out, I would appreciate it. Thanks, Jason Rowe RV-7A N338JR (Res.)

I was looking at the finished planes on the "Hobbs Meter" on Va n's website.  I noticed two really sweet looking interiors.  O ne plane was owned by Michael Brewton and the other by Daniel Snow.  ; Michael or Daniel, if you get this, I would love to know who did your interior, you've got really nice looking planes.  If anyone knows e ither of these two guys and wouldn't mind forwarding me their email so t hat I could find out, I would appreciate it.  Thanks,

Jason Rowe

RV-7A

N338JR (Res.)


      
      
      
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Date: May 20, 2007
From: "Richard E. Tasker" <retasker(at)optonline.net>
Subject: Re: Interior upholstery
Looks to me like they are both Classic Aero Designs (http://www.classicaerodesigns.com). On the other hand, Abby Erdmann of Flightline Interiors (http://my.execpc.com/~erdmannb/) makes a very nice complete interior kit. Dick Tasker jkrowe.1(at)netzero.net wrote: > I was looking at the finished planes on the "Hobbs Meter" on Van's > website. I noticed two really sweet looking interiors. One plane was > owned by Michael Brewton and the other by Daniel Snow. Michael or > Daniel, if you get this, I would love to know who did your interior, > you've got really nice looking planes. If anyone knows either of > these two guys and wouldn't mind forwarding me their email so that I > could find out, I would appreciate it. Thanks, > > Jason Rowe > > RV-7A > > N338JR (Res.) > >* > > >* > -- Please Note: No trees were destroyed in the sending of this message. We do concede, however, that a significant number of electrons may have been temporarily inconvenienced. -- ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 20, 2007
From: "daniel storer" <dstorer(at)atlinkwifi.com>
Subject: Re: Interior upholstery
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Daniel Snow" <dsnow(at)coosahs.net>
Subject: Re: Interior upholstery
Date: May 20, 2007
Thanks for the compliment. Mine is a Classic Aero Designs interior. Daniel Snow > From: "jkrowe.1(at)netzero.net" <jkrowe.1(at)netzero.net> > Subject: RV7-List: Interior upholstery > > I was looking at the finished planes on the "Hobbs Meter" on Van's websi > te. I noticed two really sweet looking interiors. One plane was owned > by Michael Brewton and the other by Daniel Snow. Michael or Daniel, if > you get this, I would love to know who did your interior, you've got rea > lly nice looking planes. If anyone knows either of these two guys and w > ouldn't mind forwarding me their email so that I could find out, I would > appreciate it. Thanks, > Jason Rowe > RV-7A > N338JR (Res.) > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: WTB: messed up RV-7/A panel
From: "bmeyette" <brianpublic2(at)starband.net>
Date: May 21, 2007
I'm looking for a 7 or 7A instrument panel that someone has messed up and discarded. I could buy a new one, but I thought getting one that is otherwise messed up would be cheaper. Must be straight and must have no holes in bottom 2" of panel. All I really want is the bottom 2", to make a switches subpanel under my panel. If anyone has or knows of anyone with a panel that they messed up and had to get a new one, here's a good chance to get rid of the old bad one. Contact me offlist at brianpublic2 at starband dot net. thanks, brian -------- Brian Meyette, Cornish, NH RV-7A QB tipup, Eggenfellner supercharged STi engine, MT CS prop, all glass day/night/IFR panel, being built with solar and wind power N432MM reserved http://brian76.mystarband.net/RV-7Ahome.htm Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=113983#113983 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob Collins" <bcollinsrv7a(at)comcast.net>
Subject: WTB: messed up RV-7/A panel
Date: May 21, 2007
You should call Stein Bruch and see if he has some hanging around. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of bmeyette Sent: Monday, May 21, 2007 9:52 AM Subject: RV7-List: WTB: messed up RV-7/A panel I'm looking for a 7 or 7A instrument panel that someone has messed up and discarded. I could buy a new one, but I thought getting one that is otherwise messed up would be cheaper. Must be straight and must have no holes in bottom 2" of panel. All I really want is the bottom 2", to make a switches subpanel under my panel. If anyone has or knows of anyone with a panel that they messed up and had to get a new one, here's a good chance to get rid of the old bad one. Contact me offlist at brianpublic2 at starband dot net. thanks, brian -------- Brian Meyette, Cornish, NH RV-7A QB tipup, Eggenfellner supercharged STi engine, MT CS prop, all glass day/night/IFR panel, being built with solar and wind power N432MM reserved http://brian76.mystarband.net/RV-7Ahome.htm Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=113983#113983 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randy Pinkston" <pinkston(at)carolina.rr.com>
Subject: amy.pdf - Adobe Reader
Date: May 21, 2007
i have a old one like this,,, my round holes was to close on the gauges to each other will sell for 20.00 plus shipping if you want it randy pinkston rv7a 705rp nc kafp ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: WTB: messed up RV-7/A panel
From: "bmeyette" <brianpublic2(at)starband.net>
Date: May 21, 2007
Thank you to the many people who have responded so quickly to this posting. SteinAir is going to send me one. If you haven't dealt with SteinAir before, I can assure you it's always a pleasure. Their customer service is outstanding. brian -------- Brian Meyette, Cornish, NH RV-7A QB tipup, Eggenfellner supercharged STi engine, MT CS prop, all glass day/night/IFR panel, being built with solar and wind power N432MM reserved http://brian76.mystarband.net/RV-7Ahome.htm Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=114005#114005 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: <i.perry(at)lipogen.co.il>
Subject: tachometer+Lasar
Date: May 29, 2007
Hello! I have DYNON ems10 and lasar ignition system on xp360.i am wondering how to connect the tachometer wires between dynon and lasar., Please advice. Thanks -ilan Perry ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Scott R. Shook" <sshook(at)cox.net>
Subject: tachometer+Lasar
Date: May 29, 2007
Dynon has a pretty extensive online forum for support. Have you tried there yet? Scott R. Shook RV-7A (Building) N696JS (Reserved) _____ From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of i.perry(at)lipogen.co.il Sent: Tuesday, May 29, 2007 13:50 Subject: RV7-List: tachometer+Lasar Hello! I have DYNON ems10 and lasar ignition system on xp360.i am wondering how to connect the tachometer wires between dynon and lasar., Please advice. Thanks -ilan Perry ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rafael" <rafael(at)gforcecable.com>
Subject: RV7A boarding
Date: May 29, 2007
I took my first ride in an RV6A last week and LOVED it! However, I was not pleased with the boarding procedure of stepping on the seat. I'm just starting my RV7A quick build and I don't want this to be standard procedure with an expensive upholstery job. Is there a way around this? Cheers, Rafael ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randy Pinkston" <pinkston(at)carolina.rr.com>
Subject: Re: RV7A boarding
Date: May 29, 2007
just put a hand towel in the seat's I had rv7a put on mine and it work's great, just shake it off from time to time randy pinkston flying 338 hrs rv7a ----- Original Message ----- From: Rafael To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Tuesday, May 29, 2007 9:19 PM Subject: RV7-List: RV7A boarding I took my first ride in an RV6A last week and LOVED it! However, I was not pleased with the boarding procedure of stepping on the seat. I'm just starting my RV7A quick build and I don't want this to be standard procedure with an expensive upholstery job. Is there a way around this? Cheers, Rafael ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "B Tomm" <fvalarm(at)rapidnet.net>
Subject: RV7A boarding
Date: May 29, 2007
Some builders lower the fuel selector knob about one inch so that it is just below the level of the top of the spar. Then put a little wing walk (anti-slip material) on the seat pan between the seats, directly behind the fuel selector (about 4" by 6" rectangle should do it). The lowering of the selector is so that it doesn't get bumped by your toes. Bevan Rv7A finishing kit. _____ From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rafael Sent: Tuesday, May 29, 2007 6:19 PM Subject: RV7-List: RV7A boarding I took my first ride in an RV6A last week and LOVED it! However, I was not pleased with the boarding procedure of stepping on the seat. I'm just starting my RV7A quick build and I don't want this to be standard procedure with an expensive upholstery job. Is there a way around this? Cheers, Rafael ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "B Tomm" <fvalarm(at)rapidnet.net>
Subject: RV7A boarding
Date: May 29, 2007
Do you then sit on the hand towel, or pull it out after you get your feet onto the floor? Bevan _____ From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Randy Pinkston Sent: Tuesday, May 29, 2007 6:26 PM Subject: Re: RV7-List: RV7A boarding just put a hand towel in the seat's I had rv7a put on mine and it work's great, just shake it off from time to time randy pinkston flying 338 hrs rv7a ----- Original Message ----- From: Rafael <mailto:rafael(at)gforcecable.com> Sent: Tuesday, May 29, 2007 9:19 PM Subject: RV7-List: RV7A boarding I took my first ride in an RV6A last week and LOVED it! However, I was not pleased with the boarding procedure of stepping on the seat. I'm just starting my RV7A quick build and I don't want this to be standard procedure with an expensive upholstery job. Is there a way around this? Cheers, Rafael href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV7-List">http://www.matronics.com/ Navigator?RV7-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Red Hamilton" <redswing(at)mcn.org>
Subject: Re: RV7A boarding
Date: May 29, 2007
No, you just get a high wing airplane and avoid that problem and the rain inside too. Red ----- Original Message ----- From: B Tomm To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Tuesday, May 29, 2007 6:42 PM Subject: RE: RV7-List: RV7A boarding Do you then sit on the hand towel, or pull it out after you get your feet onto the floor? Bevan ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----- From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Randy Pinkston Sent: Tuesday, May 29, 2007 6:26 PM To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com Subject: Re: RV7-List: RV7A boarding just put a hand towel in the seat's I had rv7a put on mine and it work's great, just shake it off from time to time randy pinkston flying 338 hrs rv7a ----- Original Message ----- From: Rafael To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Tuesday, May 29, 2007 9:19 PM Subject: RV7-List: RV7A boarding I took my first ride in an RV6A last week and LOVED it! However, I was not pleased with the boarding procedure of stepping on the seat. I'm just starting my RV7A quick build and I don't want this to be standard procedure with an expensive upholstery job. Is there a way around this? Cheers, Rafael href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV7-List">http://www.matronhre f="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV7-List">http://www.matronics .com/Navigator?RV7-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randy Pinkston" <pinkston(at)carolina.rr.com>
Subject: Re: RV7A boarding
Date: May 29, 2007
just sit on them,,,,they keep the plane clean inside,,just shake them off each time you put the great plane up randy p 705rp ----- Original Message ----- From: B Tomm To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Tuesday, May 29, 2007 9:42 PM Subject: RE: RV7-List: RV7A boarding Do you then sit on the hand towel, or pull it out after you get your feet onto the floor? Bevan ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----- From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Randy Pinkston Sent: Tuesday, May 29, 2007 6:26 PM To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com Subject: Re: RV7-List: RV7A boarding just put a hand towel in the seat's I had rv7a put on mine and it work's great, just shake it off from time to time randy pinkston flying 338 hrs rv7a ----- Original Message ----- From: Rafael To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Tuesday, May 29, 2007 9:19 PM Subject: RV7-List: RV7A boarding I took my first ride in an RV6A last week and LOVED it! However, I was not pleased with the boarding procedure of stepping on the seat. I'm just starting my RV7A quick build and I don't want this to be standard procedure with an expensive upholstery job. Is there a way around this? Cheers, Rafael href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV7-List">http://www.matronhre f="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV7-List">http://www.matronics .com/Navigator?RV7-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randy Pinkston" <pinkston(at)carolina.rr.com>
Subject: Re: RV7A boarding
Date: May 29, 2007
red who makes a high wing plane that comes close to the rv7? ----- Original Message ----- From: Red Hamilton To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Tuesday, May 29, 2007 10:19 PM Subject: Re: RV7-List: RV7A boarding No, you just get a high wing airplane and avoid that problem and the rain inside too. Red ----- Original Message ----- From: B Tomm To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Tuesday, May 29, 2007 6:42 PM Subject: RE: RV7-List: RV7A boarding Do you then sit on the hand towel, or pull it out after you get your feet onto the floor? Bevan ------------------------------------------------------------------------- --- From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Randy Pinkston Sent: Tuesday, May 29, 2007 6:26 PM To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com Subject: Re: RV7-List: RV7A boarding just put a hand towel in the seat's I had rv7a put on mine and it work's great, just shake it off from time to time randy pinkston flying 338 hrs rv7a ----- Original Message ----- From: Rafael To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Tuesday, May 29, 2007 9:19 PM Subject: RV7-List: RV7A boarding I took my first ride in an RV6A last week and LOVED it! However, I was not pleased with the boarding procedure of stepping on the seat. I'm just starting my RV7A quick build and I don't want this to be standard procedure with an expensive upholstery job. Is there a way around this? Cheers, Rafael href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV7-List">http://www.matronhre f="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV7-List">http://www.matronhre f="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV7-List">http://www.matronics .com/Navigator?RV7-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 29, 2007
From: Walter Tondu <walter(at)tondu.com>
Subject: Re: RV7A boarding
On 05/29 9:19, Rafael wrote: > I took my first ride in an RV6A last week and LOVED it! However, I was > not pleased with the boarding procedure of stepping on the seat. I'm just > starting my RV7A quick build and I don't want this to be standard > procedure with an expensive upholstery job. I spent a bit of $ for all leather seats. I've found that a small towel placed on the seat and stepping on that works well. Just leave it there and sit on it. If you don't like the looks of it throw them in the back when you're at an airshow. It keeps the seats clean and makes ingress/egress easier than stepping between the seats, which is awkward for inseam challenged folks. This is one of the minor penalties to having a small, fast aerobatic airplane. You'll get used to it. -- Walter Tondu http://www.rv7-a.com - Flying! http://www.evorocket.com - Building ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 29, 2007
From: Bruce Swayze <swayze(at)europa.com>
Subject: elevator tips - how to finish?
Fellow builders, I decided to work on the fiberglass tips on my empennage while waiting on my wing kit. The newer RV-7 elevators have lead counterweights that stick out, rather than lie flush inside the counterbalance arm. The fiberglass tip covers the sides of the lead counterweight nicely, but the forward end is exposed and it shows. The tip doesn't cover it. I'm wondering how to cover it. How are you guys doing it? I've looked at a lot of web sites, but I haven't found anybody yet that details how they did this. I'm looking for some details and/or pictures. It's very tempting to just slather on some super-fill or some Evercoat Rage or whatever, and sand it down smooth and contour it. But I'm wondering how well these materials stick to lead? Has anybody researched this? And what about avoiding cracks developing over time? It seems to me there should be at least one layer of bid fiberglass over the lead, bonded to the fiberglass tip. Has anyone done this? Any suggestions or pictures? Thanks! Bruce Swayze RV-7A Empennage finished Waiting on Wing Kit -- ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Red Hamilton" <redswing(at)mcn.org>
Subject: Re: RV7A boarding
Date: May 29, 2007
those who build Wittman Tailwinds. Actually, I like the RV series a bunch, was just trying to see if anybody was paying attention ; ) Red ----- Original Message ----- From: Randy Pinkston To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Tuesday, May 29, 2007 7:26 PM Subject: Re: RV7-List: RV7A boarding red who makes a high wing plane that comes close to the rv7? ----- Original Message ----- From: Red Hamilton To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Tuesday, May 29, 2007 10:19 PM Subject: Re: RV7-List: RV7A boarding No, you just get a high wing airplane and avoid that problem and the rain inside too. Red ----- Original Message ----- From: B Tomm To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Tuesday, May 29, 2007 6:42 PM Subject: RE: RV7-List: RV7A boarding Do you then sit on the hand towel, or pull it out after you get your feet onto the floor? Bevan ------------------------------------------------------------------------- - From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Randy Pinkston Sent: Tuesday, May 29, 2007 6:26 PM To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com Subject: Re: RV7-List: RV7A boarding just put a hand towel in the seat's I had rv7a put on mine and it work's great, just shake it off from time to time randy pinkston flying 338 hrs rv7a ----- Original Message ----- From: Rafael To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Tuesday, May 29, 2007 9:19 PM Subject: RV7-List: RV7A boarding I took my first ride in an RV6A last week and LOVED it! However, I was not pleased with the boarding procedure of stepping on the seat. I'm just starting my RV7A quick build and I don't want this to be standard procedure with an expensive upholstery job. Is there a way around this? Cheers, Rafael href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV7-List">http://www.matronhre f="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV7-List">http://www.matronhre f="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV7-List">http://www.matronhre f="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV7-List">http://www.matronics .com/Navigator?RV7-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: <i.perry(at)lipogen.co.il>
Subject: tachometer+Lasar
Date: May 30, 2007
Thanks Scott! I appeal to RV forum after Dynon answer, that the do not have solution to the situation. Regards Ilan Perry. _____ From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Scott R. Shook Sent: Wednesday, May 30, 2007 1:00 AM Subject: RE: RV7-List: tachometer+Lasar Dynon has a pretty extensive online forum for support. Have you tried there yet? Scott R. Shook RV-7A (Building) N696JS (Reserved) _____ From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of i.perry(at)lipogen.co.il Sent: Tuesday, May 29, 2007 13:50 Subject: RV7-List: tachometer+Lasar Hello! I have DYNON ems10 and lasar ignition system on xp360.i am wondering how to connect the tachometer wires between dynon and lasar., Please advice. Thanks -ilan Perry ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randy Pinkston" <pinkston(at)carolina.rr.com>
Subject: Re: RV7A boarding
Date: May 30, 2007
we have 2 whittman tailwinds on our field ,,,that is a great plane & if I was smaller person it would be my next choice ,,,can't beat it for speed & price randy p 705rp rv7a flying ----- Original Message ----- From: Red Hamilton To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Wednesday, May 30, 2007 12:05 AM Subject: Re: RV7-List: RV7A boarding those who build Wittman Tailwinds. Actually, I like the RV series a bunch, was just trying to see if anybody was paying attention ; ) Red ----- Original Message ----- From: Randy Pinkston To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Tuesday, May 29, 2007 7:26 PM Subject: Re: RV7-List: RV7A boarding red who makes a high wing plane that comes close to the rv7? ----- Original Message ----- From: Red Hamilton To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Tuesday, May 29, 2007 10:19 PM Subject: Re: RV7-List: RV7A boarding No, you just get a high wing airplane and avoid that problem and the rain inside too. Red ----- Original Message ----- From: B Tomm To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Tuesday, May 29, 2007 6:42 PM Subject: RE: RV7-List: RV7A boarding Do you then sit on the hand towel, or pull it out after you get your feet onto the floor? Bevan ------------------------------------------------------------------------ From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Randy Pinkston Sent: Tuesday, May 29, 2007 6:26 PM To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com Subject: Re: RV7-List: RV7A boarding just put a hand towel in the seat's I had rv7a put on mine and it work's great, just shake it off from time to time randy pinkston flying 338 hrs rv7a ----- Original Message ----- From: Rafael To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Tuesday, May 29, 2007 9:19 PM Subject: RV7-List: RV7A boarding I took my first ride in an RV6A last week and LOVED it! However, I was not pleased with the boarding procedure of stepping on the seat. I'm just starting my RV7A quick build and I don't want this to be standard procedure with an expensive upholstery job. Is there a way around this? Cheers, Rafael href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV7-List">http://www.matronhre f="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV7-List">http://www.matronhre f="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV7-List">http://www.matronhre f="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV7-List">http://www.matronhre f="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV7-List">http://www.matronics .com/Navigator?RV7-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Red Hamilton" <redswing(at)mcn.org>
Subject: Re: RV7A boarding
Date: May 30, 2007
Yes, since you are building the structure, you cana make the cabin any size that you like, within reason. There are probably no two alike. Red ----- Original Message ----- From: Randy Pinkston To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Wednesday, May 30, 2007 5:10 AM Subject: Re: RV7-List: RV7A boarding we have 2 whittman tailwinds on our field ,,,that is a great plane & if I was smaller person it would be my next choice ,,,can't beat it for speed & price randy p 705rp rv7a flying ----- Original Message ----- From: Red Hamilton To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Wednesday, May 30, 2007 12:05 AM Subject: Re: RV7-List: RV7A boarding those who build Wittman Tailwinds. Actually, I like the RV series a bunch, was just trying to see if anybody was paying attention ; ) Red ----- Original Message ----- From: Randy Pinkston To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Tuesday, May 29, 2007 7:26 PM Subject: Re: RV7-List: RV7A boarding red who makes a high wing plane that comes close to the rv7? ----- Original Message ----- From: Red Hamilton To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Tuesday, May 29, 2007 10:19 PM Subject: Re: RV7-List: RV7A boarding No, you just get a high wing airplane and avoid that problem and the rain inside too. Red ----- Original Message ----- From: B Tomm To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Tuesday, May 29, 2007 6:42 PM Subject: RE: RV7-List: RV7A boarding Do you then sit on the hand towel, or pull it out after you get your feet onto the floor? Bevan ---------------------------------------------------------------------- From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Randy Pinkston Sent: Tuesday, May 29, 2007 6:26 PM To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com Subject: Re: RV7-List: RV7A boarding just put a hand towel in the seat's I had rv7a put on mine and it work's great, just shake it off from time to time randy pinkston flying 338 hrs rv7a ----- Original Message ----- From: Rafael To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Tuesday, May 29, 2007 9:19 PM Subject: RV7-List: RV7A boarding I took my first ride in an RV6A last week and LOVED it! However, I was not pleased with the boarding procedure of stepping on the seat. I'm just starting my RV7A quick build and I don't want this to be standard procedure with an expensive upholstery job. Is there a way around this? Cheers, Rafael href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV7-List">http://www.matronhre f="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV7-List">http://www.matronhre f="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV7-List">http://www.matronhre f="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV7-List">http://www.matronhre f="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV7-List">http://www.matronhre f="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV7-List">http://www.matronics .com/Navigator?RV7-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: <franz(at)lastfrontierheli.com>
Subject: RV7A boarding
Date: May 30, 2007
Yes there is. It takes a while to figure it out but I never step on my seat cushion. Franz RV7-60h -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Red Hamilton Sent: Wednesday, May 30, 2007 7:41 AM Subject: Re: RV7-List: RV7A boarding Yes, since you are building the structure, you cana make the cabin any size that you like, within reason. There are probably no two alike. Red ----- Original Message ----- From: Randy <mailto:pinkston(at)carolina.rr.com> Pinkston Sent: Wednesday, May 30, 2007 5:10 AM Subject: Re: RV7-List: RV7A boarding we have 2 whittman tailwinds on our field ,,,that is a great plane & if I was smaller person it would be my next choice ,,,can't beat it for speed & price randy p 705rp rv7a flying ----- Original Message ----- From: Red Hamilton <mailto:redswing(at)mcn.org> Sent: Wednesday, May 30, 2007 12:05 AM Subject: Re: RV7-List: RV7A boarding those who build Wittman Tailwinds. Actually, I like the RV series a bunch, was just trying to see if anybody was paying attention ; ) Red ----- Original Message ----- From: Randy <mailto:pinkston(at)carolina.rr.com> Pinkston Sent: Tuesday, May 29, 2007 7:26 PM Subject: Re: RV7-List: RV7A boarding red who makes a high wing plane that comes close to the rv7? ----- Original Message ----- From: Red Hamilton <mailto:redswing(at)mcn.org> Sent: Tuesday, May 29, 2007 10:19 PM Subject: Re: RV7-List: RV7A boarding No, you just get a high wing airplane and avoid that problem and the rain inside too. Red ----- Original Message ----- From: B Tomm <mailto:fvalarm(at)rapidnet.net> Sent: Tuesday, May 29, 2007 6:42 PM Subject: RE: RV7-List: RV7A boarding Do you then sit on the hand towel, or pull it out after you get your feet onto the floor? Bevan _____ From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Randy Pinkston Sent: Tuesday, May 29, 2007 6:26 PM Subject: Re: RV7-List: RV7A boarding just put a hand towel in the seat's I had rv7a put on mine and it work's great, just shake it off from time to time randy pinkston flying 338 hrs rv7a ----- Original Message ----- From: Rafael <mailto:rafael(at)gforcecable.com> Sent: Tuesday, May 29, 2007 9:19 PM Subject: RV7-List: RV7A boarding I took my first ride in an RV6A last week and LOVED it! However, I was not pleased with the boarding procedure of stepping on the seat. I'm just starting my RV7A quick build and I don't want this to be standard procedure with an expensive upholstery job. Is there a way around this? Cheers, Rafael href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV7-List">http://www.matronhref ="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV7-List">http://www.matronhref ="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV7-List">http://www.matronhref ="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV7-List">http://www.matronhref ="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV7-List">http://www.matronhref ="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV7-List">http://www.matronhref ="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV7-List">http://www.matronics. com/Navigator?RV7-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 30, 2007
From: Derek Hodges <citationpilot2002(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Looking for a Partner in Temple, TX
Hey Everyone, I just wanted to spread the word that I am seeking a partner for my RV-7A project. I am currently working on the empenage kit. I live in Central Texas, West Temple near Belton Lake. If you are interested or know someone around this area that might be, let me know. Thanks, Derek to amazing places on Yahoo! Travel. http://travel.yahoo.com/ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Don Hall" <dhall(at)donka.net>
Subject: elevator tips - how to finish?
Date: May 31, 2007
My recommendation is don't go nuts with the finish on the tail. Just fit everything and assemble as per drawings. You have several more years to stew over this and see and inspect RV's at shows. I realize I don't have many pics of my fiber fun on the tail. I'm curious if your weights are any different than mine. Got pics of yours? I'll go snap a few... ****************************************** Don Hall N517DG (registered) rv7 fuselage http://rv7.donka.net ****************************************** -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bruce Swayze Sent: Tuesday, May 29, 2007 11:35 PM Subject: RV7-List: elevator tips - how to finish? Fellow builders, I decided to work on the fiberglass tips on my empennage while waiting on my wing kit. The newer RV-7 elevators have lead counterweights that stick out, rather than lie flush inside the counterbalance arm. The fiberglass tip covers the sides of the lead counterweight nicely, but the forward end is exposed and it shows. The tip doesn't cover it. I'm wondering how to cover it. How are you guys doing it? I've looked at a lot of web sites, but I haven't found anybody yet that details how they did this. I'm looking for some details and/or pictures. It's very tempting to just slather on some super-fill or some Evercoat Rage or whatever, and sand it down smooth and contour it. But I'm wondering how well these materials stick to lead? Has anybody researched this? And what about avoiding cracks developing over time? It seems to me there should be at least one layer of bid fiberglass over the lead, bonded to the fiberglass tip. Has anyone done this? Any suggestions or pictures? Thanks! Bruce Swayze RV-7A Empennage finished Waiting on Wing Kit -- ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Carl Bell" <carlbell(at)gforcecable.com>
Subject: Capacitive Fuel Sending units
Date: Jun 04, 2007
Tail is almost done and I need to order my wing kit this week and would love to get conventional wisdom or whether to order it with capacitive fuel sending units or float sending units. I will probable use a combo EMS i.e. Vision, GRT, Dynon etc. Any thoughts or experience would be appreciated. I am building an RV 7 with 180 and CS. Thanks Carl W Bell New Venture Consulting Mobile: 803.640.2760 <http://www.newventureconsulting.com> www.newventureconsulting.com carlbell(at)gforcecable.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Capacitive Fuel Sending units
Date: Jun 04, 2007
From: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde(at)hp.com>
Float senders work great and they work equally well for both Avgas and auto fuel....Capacative senders have to be calibrated for each different fuel...I don't know how much practical difference it makes. I do know the CAP senders (used to at least) require an interface box. Every one who has used CAP senders has told me they wouldn't use 'em again. I have floats, they work great and are reliable and iterface directly with the Dynon. Oh and you can fit them to QB tanks even if you decide to use Flop tubes like I did. If it ain't broke, don't mess with it. Frank 7a ________________________________ From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Carl Bell Sent: Monday, June 04, 2007 12:11 PM Subject: RV7-List: Capacitive Fuel Sending units Tail is almost done and I need to order my wing kit this week and would love to get conventional wisdom or whether to order it with capacitive fuel sending units or float sending units. I will probable use a combo EMS i.e. Vision, GRT, Dynon etc. Any thoughts or experience would be appreciated. I am building an RV 7 with 180 and CS. Thanks Carl W Bell New Venture Consulting Mobile: 803.640.2760 www.newventureconsulting.com <http://www.newventureconsulting.com> carlbell(at)gforcecable.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Scott R. Shook" <sshook(at)cox.net>
Subject: Capacitive Fuel Sending units
Date: Jun 04, 2007
While I am sure that many will offer their expertise in the matter, my thought process is that I wanted less moving parts. That is why I went with capacitive fuel senders. There are pros an cons to both types of senders. Scott R. Shook RV-7A (Building) N696JS (Reserved) _____ From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis) Sent: Monday, June 04, 2007 12:31 Subject: RE: RV7-List: Capacitive Fuel Sending units Float senders work great and they work equally well for both Avgas and auto fuel....Capacative senders have to be calibrated for each different fuel...I don't know how much practical difference it makes. I do know the CAP senders (used to at least) require an interface box. Every one who has used CAP senders has told me they wouldn't use 'em again. I have floats, they work great and are reliable and iterface directly with the Dynon. Oh and you can fit them to QB tanks even if you decide to use Flop tubes like I did. If it ain't broke, don't mess with it. Frank 7a _____ From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Carl Bell Sent: Monday, June 04, 2007 12:11 PM Subject: RV7-List: Capacitive Fuel Sending units Tail is almost done and I need to order my wing kit this week and would love to get conventional wisdom or whether to order it with capacitive fuel sending units or float sending units. I will probable use a combo EMS i.e. Vision, GRT, Dynon etc. Any thoughts or experience would be appreciated. I am building an RV 7 with 180 and CS. Thanks Carl W Bell New Venture Consulting Mobile: 803.640.2760 <http://www.newventureconsulting.com> www.newventureconsulting.com carlbell(at)gforcecable.com href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV7-List">http://www.matronics.com/ Navigator?RV7-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Frank Stringham" <fstringham(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Capacitive Fuel Sending units
Date: Jun 04, 2007
Frank Where were ya when I needed at the time I made the decision to go cap.....style. Oh well Frank @ sgu RV7A "NDY" >From: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde(at)hp.com> >Reply-To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com >To: >Subject: RE: RV7-List: Capacitive Fuel Sending units >Date: Mon, 4 Jun 2007 19:30:53 -0000 > >Float senders work great and they work equally well for both Avgas and >auto fuel....Capacative senders have to be calibrated for each different >fuel...I don't know how much practical difference it makes. > >I do know the CAP senders (used to at least) require an interface box. >Every one who has used CAP senders has told me they wouldn't use 'em >again. > >I have floats, they work great and are reliable and iterface directly >with the Dynon. Oh and you can fit them to QB tanks even if you decide >to use Flop tubes like I did. > >If it ain't broke, don't mess with it. > >Frank 7a > >________________________________ > >From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com >[mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Carl Bell >Sent: Monday, June 04, 2007 12:11 PM >To: Carl Bell >Subject: RV7-List: Capacitive Fuel Sending units > > >Tail is almost done and I need to order my wing kit this week and would >love to get conventional wisdom or whether to order it with capacitive >fuel sending units or float sending units. I will probable use a combo >EMS i.e. Vision, GRT, Dynon etc. Any thoughts or experience would be >appreciated. I am building an RV 7 with 180 and CS. Thanks > > >Carl W Bell > >New Venture Consulting > >Mobile: 803.640.2760 > >www.newventureconsulting.com <http://www.newventureconsulting.com> > >carlbell(at)gforcecable.com > > _________________________________________________________________ Make every IM count. Download Messenger and join the im Initiative now. Its free. http://im.live.com/messenger/im/home/?source=TAGHM_June07 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 04, 2007
From: Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Capacitive Fuel Sending units
Carl Bell wrote: > Tail is almost done and I need to order my wing kit this week and would > love to get conventional wisdom or whether to order it with capacitive > fuel sending units or float sending units. I will probable use a combo > EMS i.e. Vision, GRT, Dynon etc. Any thoughts or experience would be > appreciated. I am building an RV 7 with 180 and CS. Thanks > > > > **Carl W Bell** > > **New Venture Consulting** > > Mobile: 803.640.2760 > I don't know if this is either conventional or wisdom, but I decided not to use them (& I like solid state stuff) because the ones you buy cost more & more important, their calibration is affected by the type of fuel. Alcohol (it could be the norm in the future), water, and supposedly even auto fuel vs. avgas changes the calibration. As much as I dislike parts that move without good reason, I've never had a problem with the float style gauges & very rarely hear of others having problems. FWIW, Charlie ________________________________________________________________________________
From: trovan(at)mac.com
Subject: Wing Tip Landing Lights
Date: Jun 09, 2007
I know the Duckworks landing lights are good, but I would like to hear from those who have installed wing tip landing lights. Are they satisfied? William Frymark La Grange, Il trovan(at)mac.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Neal George" <neal.george(at)mchsi.com>
Subject: FS: MT Prop Governor
Date: Jun 10, 2007
For Sale: New MT P-860-4 Prop Governor. For rear-mount on (I)O-320 or (I)O-360 engines. $1050, shipped. Neal E. George 2023 Everglades Drive Navarre, FL 32566 Home - 850-515-0640 Cell - 850-218-4838 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randy Pinkston" <pinkston(at)carolina.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Wing Tip Landing Lights
Date: Jun 10, 2007
running bills 75 w tip lights,,,,have them on the one tip they say not to use lights on and its ok ,,not great but ok,,, I also have nav & strobe in it also..... bill has new high den light for it now that may work like you need it to rp 705rp rv7a 345 hrs ----- Original Message ----- http://www.creativair.com/ From: trovan(at)mac.com To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Saturday, June 09, 2007 11:10 PM Subject: RV7-List: Wing Tip Landing Lights I know the Duckworks landing lights are good, but I would like to hear from those who have installed wing tip landing lights. Are they satisfied? William Frymark La Grange, Il trovan(at)mac.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Don Hall" <dhall(at)donka.net>
Subject: Wing Tip Landing Lights
Date: Jun 11, 2007
Have a friend with tip lights who seems to have mixed feelings about the wingtip landing lights. Because of the way that the tip is notched, the lights point slightly out and the notch blocks light from going forward very well. I went with dual hid in the leading edge. Not flying yet. ****************************************** Don Hall N517DG (registered) rv7 fuselage http://rv7.donka.net ****************************************** _____ From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Randy Pinkston Sent: Sunday, June 10, 2007 9:07 AM Subject: Re: RV7-List: Wing Tip Landing Lights running bills 75 w tip lights,,,,have them on the one tip they say not to use lights on and its ok ,,not great but ok,,, I also have nav & strobe in it also..... bill has new high den light for it now that may work like you need it to rp 705rp rv7a 345 hrs ----- Original Message ----- http://www.creativair.com/ From: trovan(at)mac.com Sent: Saturday, June 09, 2007 11:10 PM Subject: RV7-List: Wing Tip Landing Lights I know the Duckworks landing lights are good, but I would like to hear from those who have installed wing tip landing lights. Are they satisfied? William Frymark La Grange, Il trovan(at)mac.com href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV7-List">http://www.matronics.com/ Navigator?RV7-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Mark Taylor <mtaylo17(at)msn.com>
Subject: Wing Tip Landing Lights
Date: Jun 11, 2007
I also went for the dual leading edge HID. You'll be happy with your choice Don, it's like landing during the daytime! Mark Taylor www.4sierratango.com From: dhall(at)donka.netTo: rv7-list(at)matronics.comSubject: RE: RV7-List: Wing Tip Landing LightsDate: Mon, 11 Jun 2007 01:19:15 -0400 Have a friend with tip lights who seems to have mixed feelings about the wi ngtip landing lights. Because of the way that the tip is notched, the ligh ts point slightly out and the notch blocks light from going forward very we ll. I went with dual hid in the leading edge. Not flying yet. ****************************************** Don Hall N517DG (registered) rv7 fuselage http://rv7.donka.net ****************************************** From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server@mat ronics.com] On Behalf Of Randy PinkstonSent: Sunday, June 10, 2007 9:07 AMT o: rv7-list(at)matronics.comSubject: Re: RV7-List: Wing Tip Landing Lights running bills 75 w tip lights,,,,have them on the one tip they say not to u se lights on and its ok ,,not great but ok,,, I also have nav & strobe in i t also..... bill has new high den light for it now that may work like you n eed it to rp 705rp rv7a 345 hrs ----- Original Message ----- http://www.creativair.com/ From: trovan(at)mac.com Sent: Saturday, June 09, 2007 11:10 PM Subject: RV7-List: Wing Tip Landing Lights I know the Duckworks landing lights are good, but I would like to hear from those who have installed wing tip landing lights. Are they satisfied? William Frymark La Grange, Il trovan(at)mac.com href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV7-List">http://www.matronhref ="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV7-List">http://www.matronics.c om/Navigator?RV7-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "denny yoder" <dhyoder(at)pennswoods.net>
Subject: Defrosters
Date: Jun 13, 2007
I am currently building an RV-7, and am ready to install the top forward skin on the fuselage. Is it necessary to cut slots in the skin at the base of the windshield to mount defrosters? How do these RV cabins work in the winter. I will be flying in the winter in Pennsylvania which can get quite cold. Any suggestions will be appreciated.Thanks. Denny Yoder ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mark Burns" <burnsm(at)suddenlink.net>
Subject: Defrosters
Date: Jun 13, 2007
Denny, Check out this thread on VansAirForce about defrosters. http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=13724 <http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=13724&page=1&pp=10&h ighlight=defrost> &page=1&pp=10&highlight=defrost Mark Burns _____ From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of denny yoder Sent: Wednesday, June 13, 2007 6:05 PM Subject: RV7-List: Defrosters I am currently building an RV-7, and am ready to install the top forward skin on the fuselage. Is it necessary to cut slots in the skin at the base of the windshield to mount defrosters? How do these RV cabins work in the winter. I will be flying in the winter in Pennsylvania which can get quite cold. Any suggestions will be appreciated.Thanks. Denny Yoder ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Defrosters
Date: Jun 14, 2007
From: dougpflyrv(at)aol.com
Denny, we have had 2 defroster fans in 4 out of 5 RV's and they have been he lpful in high humidity. I also run them to help cool the avionics. I am a be liever. Doug Preston RV-10 N372RV -----Original Message----- From: denny yoder <dhyoder(at)pennswoods.net> Sent: Wed, 13 Jun 2007 6:05 pm Subject: RV7-List: Defrosters I am currently building an RV-7, and am ready to install the top forward ski n on the fuselage. Is it necessary to cut slots in the skin at the base of t he windshield to mount defrosters? How do these RV cabins work in the winter . I will be flying in the winter in Pennsylvania which can get quite cold. A ny suggestions will be appreciated.Thanks. =C2-=C2-=C2- Denny Yoder -= - The RV7-List Email Forum - -= Use the Matronics List Features Navigator to browse -= the many List utilities such as the Subscriptions page, -= Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, -= Photoshare, and much much more: -= --> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV7-List -======================== -= - NEW MATRONICS WEB FORUMS - -= Same great content now also available via the Web Forums! -= --> http://forums.matronics.com -======================== ________________________________________________________________________ AOL at AOL.com. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Paul Watson" <pwatsonfnp(at)comcast.net>
Subject: RV7 main gear wood dampeners
Date: Jun 21, 2007
I am finishing up my 7 and working on the main gear fairings. Does anyone have any comments on installing the wood main gear dampeners? Anyone not installed them? Other ideas? Thanks, Paul Watson ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: RV7 main gear wood dampeners
Date: Jun 21, 2007
From: tscaragol(at)aol.com
I read a report abt shooting foam into the area and I did that. It worked OK , but I'll give you a few things to be carful abt if you do use the foam int o the open area. First, make very sure you will not have to change the fairi ngs later. n other words, have the wheel pants & the upper leg fairings all set and make sure the fairings are aerodinamically set where they need to be before you begin. You have to do this anyway or should as is shown in the p lans. If you use this method, get a longer tube to shoot the foam in so you get it abt to the center of the fairing. Stop squirting the foam in well bef ore you get to the top or bottom because the foam really expands and will co me out the top & bottom & then you've got a mess.=C2- I did=C2-mine that way & I've been flying for 2 years and still fine. I've noticed when I taxi , you can hear the foam moving, but the gear will flex no matter what you us e. Hope this helps. Tony=C2-=C2-=C2- -----Original Message----- From: Paul Watson <pwatsonfnp(at)comcast.net> Sent: Thu, 21 Jun 2007 10:32 am Subject: RV7-List: RV7 main gear wood dampeners I am finishing up my 7 and working on the main gear fairings. Does anyone ha ve any comments on installing the wood main gear dampeners? Anyone not insta lled them? Other ideas? Thanks, Paul Watson -= - The RV7-List Email Forum - -= Use the Matronics List Features Navigator to browse -= the many List utilities such as the Subscriptions page, -= Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, -= Photoshare, and much much more: -= --> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV7-List -======================== -= - NEW MATRONICS WEB FORUMS - -= Same great content now also available via the Web Forums! -= --> http://forums.matronics.com -======================== ________________________________________________________________________ AOL at AOL.com. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Mark Taylor <mtaylo17(at)msn.com>
Subject: RV7 main gear wood dampeners
Date: Jun 21, 2007
I didn't bother with the wood, but did the foam method. Works great. My whe els have never shimmied like Mike Seager's training RV-7. Mark. www.4sierratango.com From: pwatsonfnp(at)comcast.netTo: rv7-list(at)matronics.comSubject: RV7-List: RV 7 main gear wood dampenersDate: Thu, 21 Jun 2007 10:32:42 -0700 I am finishing up my 7 and working on the main gear fairings. Does anyone h ave any comments on installing the wood main gear dampeners? Anyone not ins talled them? Other ideas? Thanks, Paul Watson ________________________________________________________________________________
From: =?iso-8859-1?Q?Th=E9o_Celis?= <theo.celis(at)skynet.be>
Subject: Re: RV7 main gear wood dampeners
Date: Jun 22, 2007
We used stiff Meranti (about 700kg/m3) glued with TEC-7 a urethane based strong glue that remains slightly flexxible. Th=E9o. RV-7A ----- Original Message ----- From: Paul Watson To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Thursday, June 21, 2007 7:32 PM Subject: RV7-List: RV7 main gear wood dampeners I am finishing up my 7 and working on the main gear fairings. Does anyone have any comments on installing the wood main gear dampeners? Anyone not installed them? Other ideas? Thanks, Paul Watson ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 22, 2007
From: Greg Carnforth <greg(at)chesterpools.com>
Subject: RV Insurance
What are folks doing to insure your project during the building process? I have a slow build RV7 that is basically complete from the firewall back at my residence. Home owners is coming up for renewal. Thanks for all of the help! Greg C Louisville ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Paul Watson" <pwatsonfnp(at)comcast.net>
Subject: thanks
Date: Jun 22, 2007
Thanks to all for your input on the main gear dampeners. Paul Watson ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Paul Watson" <pwatsonfnp(at)comcast.net>
Subject: RV Insurance
Date: Jun 22, 2007
Greg I have insured my project through one of the EAA recommended insurers. Basically you pay 1% of the requested insured amount annually. So a $100K policy costs $1,000. If you are building in a home shop or garage, homeowners will NOT cover it. Paul Watson -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Greg Carnforth Sent: Friday, June 22, 2007 5:07 AM Subject: RV7-List: RV Insurance What are folks doing to insure your project during the building process? I have a slow build RV7 that is basically complete from the firewall back at my residence. Home owners is coming up for renewal. Thanks for all of the help! Greg C Louisville ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 22, 2007
From: Dan Reeves <n516dr(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RV Insurance
I attend the AOPA Fly-in this spring and hooked up with Gregg Ellsworth representing Aviation Insurance Resources. Great service and great rates! Gregg Ellsworth Aviation Insurance Resources P.O. Box 32 Frederick, MD 21705 toll free: 1-877-247-7769 fax: 1-301-682-9793 www.AIR-PROS.com Dan Reeves RV-7A - wiring Greg Carnforth wrote: What are folks doing to insure your project during the building process? I have a slow build RV7 that is basically complete from the firewall back at my residence. Home owners is coming up for renewal. Thanks for all of the help! Greg C Louisville --------------------------------- Shape Yahoo! in your own image. Join our Network Research Panel today! ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Dave Cudney <yenduc(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: RV Insurance
Date: Jun 22, 2007
Greg: I got my insurance through NationAiR -- for $90 K it was $591.00. I've had builder's insurance for the last 3 years -- it has gone up about $100 each year. dave On Jun 22, 2007, at 6:38 AM, Paul Watson wrote: > > Greg I have insured my project through one of the EAA recommended > insurers. > Basically you pay 1% of the requested insured amount annually. So a > $100K > policy costs $1,000. If you are building in a home shop or garage, > homeowners will NOT cover it. > > Paul Watson > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Greg > Carnforth > Sent: Friday, June 22, 2007 5:07 AM > To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV7-List: RV Insurance > > > What are folks doing to insure your project during the building > process? I > have a slow build RV7 that is basically complete from the firewall > back at > my residence. Home owners is coming up for renewal. > > Thanks for all of the help! > > Greg C > > Louisville > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 22, 2007
From: "Rob Prior" <rv7(at)b4.ca>
Subject: RV Insurance
On 6:38 2007-06-22 "Paul Watson" wrote: > Greg I have insured my project through one of the EAA recommended > insurers. Basically you pay 1% of the requested insured amount > annually. So a $100K policy costs $1,000. If you are building in a > home shop or garage, homeowners will NOT cover it. Well, it's not that cut-and-dried. Check the wording of your homeowner's policy to be sure. If your policy doesn't specifically exclude it, then it's covered. It's just "contents", like anything else you might have in your house. I'm living/building in a townhouse right now, and my policy covers it. I've seen policies that exclude it, and policies that don't, so get a copy of the full policy and read through it. -Rob ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 22, 2007
From: "Bob Kuc" <bkuc1(at)verizon.net>
Subject: RV Insurance
My insurance company, when I did have a house and was building, stated that as long as there is no engine hung, then it is just parts and covered. But once you put an engine on it (runing or not), it becomes a vehicle and thus is not covered. Bob -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rob Prior Sent: Friday, June 22, 2007 11:06 AM Subject: RE: RV7-List: RV Insurance On 6:38 2007-06-22 "Paul Watson" wrote: > Greg I have insured my project through one of the EAA recommended > insurers. Basically you pay 1% of the requested insured amount > annually. So a $100K policy costs $1,000. If you are building in a > home shop or garage, homeowners will NOT cover it. Well, it's not that cut-and-dried. Check the wording of your homeowner's policy to be sure. If your policy doesn't specifically exclude it, then it's covered. It's just "contents", like anything else you might have in your house. I'm living/building in a townhouse right now, and my policy covers it. I've seen policies that exclude it, and policies that don't, so get a copy of the full policy and read through it. -Rob ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jenny Estes" <jennyrvlist(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RV Insurance
Date: Jun 22, 2007
Hi Greg, We offer builders insurance through two companies AIG and Global (EAA program) you can look on our website for more information or give me a call and i will be more then happy to help you. Jenny Estes NationAir Aviation Insurance www.nationair.com jestes(at)nationair.com 877-475-5860 >From: Greg Carnforth <greg(at)chesterpools.com> >Reply-To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com >To: >Subject: RV7-List: RV Insurance >Date: Fri, 22 Jun 2007 08:07:29 -0400 > > >What are folks doing to insure your project during the building process? I >have a slow build RV7 that is basically complete from the firewall back at >my residence. Home owners is coming up for renewal. > >Thanks for all of the help! > >Greg C > >Louisville > > _________________________________________________________________ Like puzzles? Play free games & earn great prizes. Play Clink now. http://club.live.com/clink.aspx?icid=clink_hotmailtextlink2 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: RV Insurance
From: "Jekyll" <rcitjh(at)aol.com>
Date: Jun 29, 2007
bertrv6(at)gmail.com wrote: > > > I don't know if I would get Insurance, while constructing,, I > think was a waste of money for four years that it took me to finish... That's the rub with all insurance, it's a waste of money if you don't need to submit a claim. This of course changes the instant you have a major loss, then it's the best money ever spent. Clint Eastwood stated it well when he said: "Do you feel lucky punk?" Jekyll Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=121217#121217 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "B Tomm" <fvalarm(at)rapidnet.net>
Subject: RV7 on floats
Date: Jun 29, 2007
The latest edition of the RV Builder's hotline includes a You Tube video link of an RV 7 on amphib floats. Does anyone know how to get in touch with Trey Johnson? I would like more info on the engineering/results as I have similar aspirations. Thanks Bevan RV7A ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: RV7 on floats
From: "Bob Collins" <bcollinsrv7a(at)comcast.net>
Date: Jun 29, 2007
He apparently worked with Wally Anderson at Synergy http://www.synergyair.com/ Stephen Reynolds at stephen.j.reyn(at)gmail.com, shot the video and knows him and probably would be your best bet. -------- Bob Collins St. Paul, Minn. RV Builder's Hotline (free!) http://rvhotline.expercraft.com Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=121265#121265 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Don Hall" <dhall(at)donka.net>
Subject: firewall penetration for the fuel line
Date: Jun 29, 2007
I am wrapping up fuse construction, I hope. About all that's left is mating the wings and running fuel and brake lines. I have the airflow performance setup. I'm trying to connect up as much of the fuel lines as I can now, but I have not purchased the firewall forward kit, and the plans do not show any details about firewall penetration and purge lines. Is it best to ignore this and just focus on hooking the tank lines up to the fuel selector and pump for now? (It's all that the plans are clear on.) Then move on to the finishing kit and worry about the rest of the fuel system design later when I'll have had longer to do some research and overcome the learning curve... Or must I face this beast now when things are clearly more accessible? Also, is it worthwhile to go ahead and install rudder pedals and the brake lines now? Seems it'll just be in the way when I do finally run fuel lines out to the firewall. Don ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 01, 2007
From: "daniel storer" <dstorer(at)atlinkwifi.com>
Subject: Re: firewall penetration for the fuel line
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 01, 2007
From: "daniel storer" <dstorer(at)atlinkwifi.com>
Subject: Re: firewall penetration for the fuel line
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Carl Bell" <carlbell(at)gforcecable.com>
Subject: Panel for RV 7
Date: Jul 07, 2007
Hi All, I'm looking for a panel for my RV 7 that is similar to the RV 10 panel that Stein-Air sells. (they do not have one for the 7)What I'm looking is a slightly raised radio stack in the middle and all three sections unscrew from a sub-frame. This allow pulling out a sections of the panel for maintenance, (I have a slider) Thanks for any ideas you have. Carl W Bell New Venture Consulting Mobile: 803.640.2760 <http://www.newventureconsulting.com> www.newventureconsulting.com carlbell(at)gforcecable.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Allen Fulmer" <afulmer(at)charter.net>
Subject: Panel for RV 7
Date: Jul 07, 2007
http://www.affordablepanels.com/ This is what I went with in my 7 slider. Radio stack is not raised as in fiberglass panels but each of three sections is removable. Allen Fulmer RV7 QB Fuse -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Carl Bell Sent: Saturday, July 07, 2007 9:23 AM To: rv-list(at)matronics.com; rv7-list(at)matronics.com Subject: RV7-List: Panel for RV 7 Hi All, I'm looking for a panel for my RV 7 that is similar to the RV 10 panel that Stein-Air sells. (they do not have one for the 7)What I'm looking is a slightly raised radio stack in the middle and all three sections unscrew from a sub-frame. This allow pulling out a sections of the panel for maintenance, (I have a slider) Thanks for any ideas you have. Carl W Bell New Venture Consulting Mobile: 803.640.2760 www.newventureconsulting.com carlbell(at)gforcecable.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Garry" <garrys(at)tampabay.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Panel for RV 7
Date: Jul 07, 2007
Hi Carl, Go with Affordable Panels. That's what I did with my RV 7A and I couldn't be happier. Fabian Leffler has been specializing in building RV panels for a long time, and has it down pat. www.affordablepanels.com Garry Stout ----- Original Message ----- From: Carl Bell To: rv-list(at)matronics.com ; rv7-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Saturday, July 07, 2007 10:23 AM Subject: RV7-List: Panel for RV 7 Hi All, I'm looking for a panel for my RV 7 that is similar to the RV 10 panel that Stein-Air sells. (they do not have one for the 7)What I'm looking is a slightly raised radio stack in the middle and all three sections unscrew from a sub-frame. This allow pulling out a sections of the panel for maintenance, (I have a slider) Thanks for any ideas you have. Carl W Bell New Venture Consulting Mobile: 803.640.2760 www.newventureconsulting.com carlbell(at)gforcecable.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 08, 2007
From: "Stan Jones" <stan.jones(at)xtra.co.nz>
Subject: Re: Panel for RV 7
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "J. Brunke" <jdoody727(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Quick build question
Date: Jul 13, 2007
The quickbuild is truly a great head start towards an airplane. The only negative to it, is that you have to figure out what Van's has and has not done. Obviously that can be accomplished in a relatively short time. While going through the drawings yesterday and checking off what has been done, I noticed on Drawing 34 that there are 12 AN - 4 bolts that go through the F704 center section. While the top bolts will be easy to tighten, the bottom row will be a little "challenging". Just curious if any of you remember if these bolts were already in place when you got your QB kit? Thanks, John Brunke RV7 tip-up slowly moving along. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Scott R. Shook" <sshook(at)cox.net>
Subject: Quick build question
Date: Jul 13, 2007
I too would be interested as my QB fuse just arrived on Saturday Scott R. Shook RV-7A (Building) N696JS (Reserved) _____ From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of J. Brunke Sent: Friday, July 13, 2007 09:04 Subject: RV7-List: Quick build question The quickbuild is truly a great head start towards an airplane. The only negative to it, is that you have to figure out what Van's has and has not done. Obviously that can be accomplished in a relatively short time. While going through the drawings yesterday and checking off what has been done, I noticed on Drawing 34 that there are 12 AN - 4 bolts that go through the F704 center section. While the top bolts will be easy to tighten, the bottom row will be a little "challenging". Just curious if any of you remember if these bolts were already in place when you got your QB kit? Thanks, John Brunke RV7 tip-up slowly moving along. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 13, 2007
From: Darrell Reiley <lifeofreiley2003(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Quick build question
Take nothing for granted! Start at the front of each section of the instructions for the wing and fuse if QB and go through the motions. You'll need to know these parts as things come together anyway. Darrell --- "Scott R. Shook" wrote: > I too would be interested as my QB fuse just arrived > on Saturday > > > > > Scott R. Shook > RV-7A (Building) > N696JS (Reserved) > > _____ > > From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On > Behalf Of J. Brunke > Sent: Friday, July 13, 2007 09:04 > To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV7-List: Quick build question > > > > The quickbuild is truly a great head start towards > an airplane. The only > negative to it, is that you have to figure out what > Van's has and has not > done. Obviously that can be accomplished in a > relatively short time. > While going through the drawings yesterday and > checking off what has been > done, I noticed on Drawing 34 that there are 12 AN - > 4 bolts that go through > the F704 center section. While the top bolts will > be easy to tighten, the > bottom row will be a little "challenging". Just > curious if any of you > remember if these bolts were already in place when > you got your > > QB kit? > > > > Thanks, > > John Brunke > > RV7 tip-up slowly moving along. > > > > > > > > > Be a better Heartthrob. Get better relationship answers from someone who knows. Yahoo! Answers - Check it out. http://answers.yahoo.com/dir/?link=list&sid=396545433 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bill Schlatterer" <billschlatterer(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Quick build question
Date: Jul 13, 2007
John, I think I remember getting my wife to start the nuts as she could get her hand down in the center section. A long set of forceps would work too. Bill S 7a _____ From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of J. Brunke Sent: Friday, July 13, 2007 11:04 AM Subject: RV7-List: Quick build question The quickbuild is truly a great head start towards an airplane. The only negative to it, is that you have to figure out what Van's has and has not done. Obviously that can be accomplished in a relatively short time. While going through the drawings yesterday and checking off what has been done, I noticed on Drawing 34 that there are 12 AN - 4 bolts that go through the F704 center section. While the top bolts will be easy to tighten, the bottom row will be a little "challenging". Just curious if any of you remember if these bolts were already in place when you got your QB kit? Thanks, John Brunke RV7 tip-up slowly moving along. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "J. Brunke" <jdoody727(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Quick build question
Date: Jul 14, 2007
Thanks Bill. I used an open end wrench with a piece of tape covering one end with the nut stuck inside. Then used a crescent wrench to make an extension for the wrench. I had a good friend help me. The reason he's a good friend, was after we put on three bolts this way, I realized that a washer gets put on the bolt side also. I think that's one of the few places I have seen that so far on the kit. Of course we had the learning curve down by then and it didn't take quite as long to put them on a second time. It's funny how little things like that all of a sudden "appear" on the drawing. At least it wasn't an expensive mistake. Thanks, John ----- Original Message ----- From: Bill Schlatterer To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Friday, July 13, 2007 7:08 PM Subject: RE: RV7-List: Quick build question John, I think I remember getting my wife to start the nuts as she could get her hand down in the center section. A long set of forceps would work too. Bill S 7a ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----- From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of J. Brunke Sent: Friday, July 13, 2007 11:04 AM To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com Subject: RV7-List: Quick build question The quickbuild is truly a great head start towards an airplane. The only negative to it, is that you have to figure out what Van's has and has not done. Obviously that can be accomplished in a relatively short time. While going through the drawings yesterday and checking off what has been done, I noticed on Drawing 34 that there are 12 AN - 4 bolts that go through the F704 center section. While the top bolts will be easy to tighten, the bottom row will be a little "challenging". Just curious if any of you remember if these bolts were already in place when you got your QB kit? Thanks, John Brunke RV7 tip-up slowly moving along. href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV7-List">http://www.matronics .com/Navigator?RV7-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Terry Wilson" <terry.paradise(at)three.com.au>
Subject: long range tanks
Date: Jul 16, 2007
Hi all, Im just looking at ordering qb7, just done my empenage. Does anyone know what the options might be for a bit bigger fuel tanks. Ill possibly be doing a bit of extended travel. Is it best to put tanks in when getting initial quickbuild, or afterwards when it gets here? Terry Wilson Burra South Austr. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 15, 2007
From: Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: long range tanks
Terry Wilson wrote: > Hi all, > Im just looking at ordering qb7, just done my empenage. Does anyone > know what the options might be for a bit bigger fuel tanks. Ill > possibly be doing a bit of extended travel. Is it best to put tanks in > when getting initial quickbuild, or afterwards when it gets here? > Terry Wilson > Burra South Austr. > If you buy the tube-type, you should be able to add them any time. I wet three bays in the outer leading edges on my slowbuild. That could be done with a qb, but it would involve some not-so-minor surgery. There's a guy who builds S-51's (P-51 replicas) from qb kits; he cuts access holes in the bottom of the leading edge cells, cleans & proseals over the rivet shop heads & seams, then installs doublers in his holes & proseals the skin plugs back on. After what I went through to wet my leading edges, that might have been easier than my method of prosealing as I built the leading edges. Charlie Engine shopping before I can order the finish kit. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 20, 2007
From: "daniel storer" <dstorer(at)atlinkwifi.com>
Subject: Need a test plan for my fly-off
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "peter winter" <rv7ltv(at)bigpond.com>
Subject: fore and aft position of the C657 SLIDER
Date: Jul 22, 2007
Hi group, I am trying to figure out the position of the C657 rail fore and aft as well as inboard,outboard....the plans say to drill it off....WHERE???? the pics on dwg 42 and 43 arnt clear to me. Also any general help here would be great...THANKS Peter. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 21, 2007
From: "Michael T. Ice" <aurbo(at)ak.net>
Subject: Re: fore and aft position of the C657 SLIDER
Peter, I had to refer to the plans to realize you were talking about the canopy track. After I did that a lot of memories came back about just how difficult it is to find the proper location of that part. You will find lots of conflicting and vague references in the plans and instructions concerning the canopy. Rather than try and explain to you what I did I will try to help you by pointing you in the direction of some great web sites. I also had good luck watching George Orndorfs video/DVD on this subject. Check out Van's www.vansaircraft.com/public/wwwlinks.htm Some of the best advice I got while working on the canopy was: No two fuselages are the same No two canopy frames are the same When the canopy is complete it has to fit and it has to open and close. It took me 35 working days and 112 hours to get a canopy that does the above. I made the side and rear skirts out of fiberglass and got a terrific fit. Good luck. Mike Ice ----- Original Message ----- From: peter winter To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Sunday, July 22, 2007 2:02 AM Subject: RV7-List: fore and aft position of the C657 SLIDER Hi group, I am trying to figure out the position of the C657 rail fore and aft as well as inboard,outboard....the plans say to drill it off....WHERE???? the pics on dwg 42 and 43 arnt clear to me. Also any general help here would be great...THANKS Peter. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Mark Taylor <mtaylo17(at)msn.com>
Subject: fore and aft position of the C657 SLIDER
Date: Jul 21, 2007
Mike is right... No two are the same. The best thing I can recommend is tha t you have the canopy frame exactly where you want it before you put the pl exi on it. I put my rails where I wanted them and then worked the frame unt il it fit in the tracks nicely with a little tension to the outside (about 1/4" to 1/2"), then put my plexi on. It's not an easy task admittedly, but taking the time upfront will result in a great fitting canopy. See my websi te for more info.. (The finish kit pages.) www.4sierratango.com Mark. Date: Sat, 21 Jul 2007 06:56:51 -0800From: aurbo(at)ak.netSubject: Re: RV7-Lis t: fore and aft position of the C657 SLIDERTo: rv7-list(at)matronics.com Peter, I had to refer to the plans to realize you were talking about the canopy tr ack. After I did that a lot of memories came back about just how difficult it is to find the proper location of that part. You will find lots of conflicting and vague references in the plans and ins tructions concerning the canopy. Rather than try and explain to you what I did I will try to help you by poi nting you in the direction of some great web sites. I also had good luck wa tching George Orndorfs video/DVD on this subject. Check out Van's www.vansaircraft.com/public/wwwlinks.htm Some of the best advice I got while working on the canopy was: No two fuselages are the same No two canopy frames are the same When the canopy is complete it has to fit and it has to open and close. It took me 35 working days and 112 hours to get a canopy that does the abov e. I made the side and rear skirts out of fiberglass and got a terrific fit . Good luck. Mike Ice ----- Original Message ----- From: peter winter Sent: Sunday, July 22, 2007 2:02 AM Subject: RV7-List: fore and aft position of the C657 SLIDER Hi group, I am trying to figure out the position of the C657 rail fore and aft as well as inboard,outboard....the plans say to drill it off....WHERE?? ?? the pics on dwg 42 and 43 arnt clear to me. Also any general help here would be great...THANKS Peter. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Mark Taylor <mtaylo17(at)msn.com>
Subject: fore and aft position of the C657 SLIDER
Date: Jul 21, 2007
Oh yeah.. When I did mine, it was really tight to open once it was done. Af ter 100 hours, the canopy opens and closes great now and it's still a reall y nice fit. Mark. Date: Sat, 21 Jul 2007 06:56:51 -0800From: aurbo(at)ak.netSubject: Re: RV7-Lis t: fore and aft position of the C657 SLIDERTo: rv7-list(at)matronics.com Peter, I had to refer to the plans to realize you were talking about the canopy tr ack. After I did that a lot of memories came back about just how difficult it is to find the proper location of that part. You will find lots of conflicting and vague references in the plans and ins tructions concerning the canopy. Rather than try and explain to you what I did I will try to help you by poi nting you in the direction of some great web sites. I also had good luck wa tching George Orndorfs video/DVD on this subject. Check out Van's www.vansaircraft.com/public/wwwlinks.htm Some of the best advice I got while working on the canopy was: No two fuselages are the same No two canopy frames are the same When the canopy is complete it has to fit and it has to open and close. It took me 35 working days and 112 hours to get a canopy that does the abov e. I made the side and rear skirts out of fiberglass and got a terrific fit . Good luck. Mike Ice ----- Original Message ----- From: peter winter Sent: Sunday, July 22, 2007 2:02 AM Subject: RV7-List: fore and aft position of the C657 SLIDER Hi group, I am trying to figure out the position of the C657 rail fore and aft as well as inboard,outboard....the plans say to drill it off....WHERE?? ?? the pics on dwg 42 and 43 arnt clear to me. Also any general help here would be great...THANKS Peter. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 21, 2007
From: "Michael T. Ice" <aurbo(at)ak.net>
Subject: Re: fore and aft position of the C657 SLIDER
Good advice Mark. I might add that I did drill the canopy rails down fore and aft and ended up just using clamps because until the canopy is complete it is nice to be able to move the rails in or out, even a 1/16" helps. Mike ----- Original Message ----- From: Mark Taylor To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Saturday, July 21, 2007 8:16 AM Subject: RE: RV7-List: fore and aft position of the C657 SLIDER Oh yeah.. When I did mine, it was really tight to open once it was done. After 100 hours, the canopy opens and closes great now and it's still a really nice fit. Mark. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sat, 21 Jul 2007 06:56:51 -0800 From: aurbo(at)ak.net Subject: Re: RV7-List: fore and aft position of the C657 SLIDER To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com Peter, I had to refer to the plans to realize you were talking about the canopy track. After I did that a lot of memories came back about just how difficult it is to find the proper location of that part. You will find lots of conflicting and vague references in the plans and instructions concerning the canopy. Rather than try and explain to you what I did I will try to help you by pointing you in the direction of some great web sites. I also had good luck watching George Orndorfs video/DVD on this subject. Check out Van's www.vansaircraft.com/public/wwwlinks.htm Some of the best advice I got while working on the canopy was: No two fuselages are the same No two canopy frames are the same When the canopy is complete it has to fit and it has to open and close. It took me 35 working days and 112 hours to get a canopy that does the above. I made the side and rear skirts out of fiberglass and got a terrific fit. Good luck. Mike Ice ----- Original Message ----- From: peter winter To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Sunday, July 22, 2007 2:02 AM Subject: RV7-List: fore and aft position of the C657 SLIDER Hi group, I am trying to figure out the position of the C657 rail fore and aft as well as inboard,outboard....the plans say to drill it off....WHERE???? the pics on dwg 42 and 43 arnt clear to me. Also any general help here would be great...THANKS Peter. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Scott R. Shook" <sshook(at)cox.net>
Subject: Question about BMA EFIS products
Date: Jul 23, 2007
I am here at OSH and am ready to jump in to avionics and need some feedback from the groups I subscribe to. I want to get in on a couple of potential show specials here at OSH and ANY feedback (positive or negative) would be helpful. There are some rumblings here at OSH from some vendors (not the competition) about the BMA line and the support (or lack there of). Anyone who is out there and able to respond, please do to my email address directly. I am not looking for a bash session in an open forum. We will be here until Saturday so any replies prior to then would be helpful. Regards, Scott R. Shook RV-7A (Building) N696JS (Reserved) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 23, 2007
From: Chris Harris <chrisdharris(at)shaw.ca>
Subject: Question about BMA EFIS products
Question about BMA EFIS productsScott I finished building my RV-7 in Nov, and put in Dynon EFIS and EMS. I now have about 35 hrs. (w/x has been bad) and have enjoyed flying with them. However I wish I had the larger screened models. They were not available when I built. I have a couple of issues...the tach. reading is not steady (p-lead probably needs moving to the other mag.) and the fuel gauges are not correctly calibrating (sender units probably need better grounding). However, overall and considering the pricing, they are excellent products, the product support and forums on-line are top class. Hope this helps Chris Harris RV-7 C-GSVN flying... -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Scott R. Shook Sent: Monday, July 23, 2007 4:21 PM To: Scott R. Shook Subject: RV7-List: Question about BMA EFIS products I am here at OSH and am ready to jump in to avionics and need some feedback from the groups I subscribe to. I want to get in on a couple of potential show specials here at OSH and ANY feedback (positive or negative) would be helpful. There are some rumblings here at OSH from some vendors (not the competition) about the BMA line and the support (or lack there of). Anyone who is out there and able to respond, please do to my email address directly. I am not looking for a bash session in an open forum. We will be here until Saturday so any replies prior to then would be helpful. Regards, Scott R. Shook RV-7A (Building) N696JS (Reserved) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "peter winter" <rv7ltv(at)bigpond.com>
Subject: RV7-List Digest: 5 Msgs - 07/21/07
Date: Jul 25, 2007
* Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive Today's complete RV7-List Digest can also be found in either of the two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest formatted in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked Indexes and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII version of the RV7-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic text editor such as Notepad or with a web browser. HTML Version: http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=html& Chapter 07-07-21&Archive=RV7 Text Version: http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=txt&C hapter 07-07-21&Archive=RV7 ====================== EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive ====================== ---------------------------------------------------------- RV7-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Sat 07/21/07: 5 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 03:04 AM - fore and aft position of the C657 SLIDER (peter winter) 2. 07:57 AM - Re: fore and aft position of the C657 SLIDER (Michael T. Ice) 3. 09:16 AM - Re: fore and aft position of the C657 SLIDER (Mark Taylor) 4. 09:16 AM - Re: fore and aft position of the C657 SLIDER (Mark Taylor) 5. 12:12 PM - Re: fore and aft position of the C657 SLIDER (Michael T. Ice) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ From: "peter winter" <rv7ltv(at)bigpond.com> Subject: RV7-List: fore and aft position of the C657 SLIDER Hi group, I am trying to figure out the position of the C657 rail fore and aft as well as inboard,outboard....the plans say to drill it off....WHERE???? the pics on dwg 42 and 43 arnt clear to me. Also any general help here would be great...THANKS Peter. ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ From: "Michael T. Ice" <aurbo(at)ak.net> Subject: Re: RV7-List: fore and aft position of the C657 SLIDER Peter, I had to refer to the plans to realize you were talking about the canopy track. After I did that a lot of memories came back about just how difficult it is to find the proper location of that part. You will find lots of conflicting and vague references in the plans and instructions concerning the canopy. Rather than try and explain to you what I did I will try to help you by pointing you in the direction of some great web sites. I also had good luck watching George Orndorfs video/DVD on this subject. Check out Van's www.vansaircraft.com/public/wwwlinks.htm Some of the best advice I got while working on the canopy was: No two fuselages are the same No two canopy frames are the same When the canopy is complete it has to fit and it has to open and close. It took me 35 working days and 112 hours to get a canopy that does the above. I made the side and rear skirts out of fiberglass and got a terrific fit. Good luck. Mike Ice ----- Original Message ----- From: peter winter To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Sunday, July 22, 2007 2:02 AM Subject: RV7-List: fore and aft position of the C657 SLIDER Hi group, I am trying to figure out the position of the C657 rail fore and aft as well as inboard,outboard....the plans say to drill it off....WHERE???? the pics on dwg 42 and 43 arnt clear to me. Also any general help here would be great...THANKS Peter. ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ From: Mark Taylor <mtaylo17(at)msn.com> Subject: RE: RV7-List: fore and aft position of the C657 SLIDER Mike is right... No two are the same. The best thing I can recommend is tha t you have the canopy frame exactly where you want it before you put the pl exi on it. I put my rails where I wanted them and then worked the frame unt il it fit in the tracks nicely with a little tension to the outside (about 1/4" to 1/2"), then put my plexi on. It's not an easy task admittedly, but taking the time upfront will result in a great fitting canopy. See my websi te for more info.. (The finish kit pages.) www.4sierratango.com Mark. t: fore and aft position of the C657 SLIDERTo: rv7-list(at)matronics.com Peter, I had to refer to the plans to realize you were talking about the canopy tr ack. After I did that a lot of memories came back about just how difficult it is to find the proper location of that part. You will find lots of conflicting and vague references in the plans and ins tructions concerning the canopy. Rather than try and explain to you what I did I will try to help you by poi nting you in the direction of some great web sites. I also had good luck wa tching George Orndorfs video/DVD on this subject. Check out Van's www.vansaircraft.com/public/wwwlinks.htm Some of the best advice I got while working on the canopy was: No two fuselages are the same No two canopy frames are the same When the canopy is complete it has to fit and it has to open and close. It took me 35 working days and 112 hours to get a canopy that does the abov e. I made the side and rear skirts out of fiberglass and got a terrific fit .. Good luck. Mike Ice ----- Original Message ----- From: peter winter Sent: Sunday, July 22, 2007 2:02 AM Subject: RV7-List: fore and aft position of the C657 SLIDER Hi group, I am trying to figure out the position of the C657 rail fore and aft as well as inboard,outboard....the plans say to drill it off....WHERE?? ?? the pics on dwg 42 and 43 arnt clear to me. Also any general help here would be great...THANKS Peter. ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ From: Mark Taylor <mtaylo17(at)msn.com> Subject: RE: RV7-List: fore and aft position of the C657 SLIDER Oh yeah.. When I did mine, it was really tight to open once it was done. Af ter 100 hours, the canopy opens and closes great now and it's still a reall y nice fit. Mark. t: fore and aft position of the C657 SLIDERTo: rv7-list(at)matronics.com Peter, I had to refer to the plans to realize you were talking about the canopy tr ack. After I did that a lot of memories came back about just how difficult it is to find the proper location of that part. You will find lots of conflicting and vague references in the plans and ins tructions concerning the canopy. Rather than try and explain to you what I did I will try to help you by poi nting you in the direction of some great web sites. I also had good luck wa tching George Orndorfs video/DVD on this subject. Check out Van's www.vansaircraft.com/public/wwwlinks.htm Some of the best advice I got while working on the canopy was: No two fuselages are the same No two canopy frames are the same When the canopy is complete it has to fit and it has to open and close. It took me 35 working days and 112 hours to get a canopy that does the abov e. I made the side and rear skirts out of fiberglass and got a terrific fit .. Good luck. Mike Ice ----- Original Message ----- From: peter winter Sent: Sunday, July 22, 2007 2:02 AM Subject: RV7-List: fore and aft position of the C657 SLIDER Hi group, I am trying to figure out the position of the C657 rail fore and aft as well as inboard,outboard....the plans say to drill it off....WHERE?? ?? the pics on dwg 42 and 43 arnt clear to me. Also any general help here would be great...THANKS Peter. ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ From: "Michael T. Ice" <aurbo(at)ak.net> Subject: Re: RV7-List: fore and aft position of the C657 SLIDER Good advice Mark. I might add that I did drill the canopy rails down fore and aft and ended up just using clamps because until the canopy is complete it is nice to be able to move the rails in or out, even a 1/16" helps. Mike ----- Original Message ----- From: Mark Taylor To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Saturday, July 21, 2007 8:16 AM Subject: RE: RV7-List: fore and aft position of the C657 SLIDER Oh yeah.. When I did mine, it was really tight to open once it was done. After 100 hours, the canopy opens and closes great now and it's still a really nice fit. Mark. ------------------------------------------------------------------------- --- Date: Sat, 21 Jul 2007 06:56:51 -0800 From: aurbo(at)ak.net Subject: Re: RV7-List: fore and aft position of the C657 SLIDER To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com Peter, I had to refer to the plans to realize you were talking about the canopy track. After I did that a lot of memories came back about just how difficult it is to find the proper location of that part. You will find lots of conflicting and vague references in the plans and instructions concerning the canopy. Rather than try and explain to you what I did I will try to help you by pointing you in the direction of some great web sites. I also had good luck watching George Orndorfs video/DVD on this subject. Check out Van's www.vansaircraft.com/public/wwwlinks.htm Some of the best advice I got while working on the canopy was: No two fuselages are the same No two canopy frames are the same When the canopy is complete it has to fit and it has to open and close. It took me 35 working days and 112 hours to get a canopy that does the above. I made the side and rear skirts out of fiberglass and got a terrific fit. Good luck. Mike Ice ----- Original Message ----- From: peter winter To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Sunday, July 22, 2007 2:02 AM Subject: RV7-List: fore and aft position of the C657 SLIDER Hi group, I am trying to figure out the position of the C657 rail fore and aft as well as inboard,outboard....the plans say to drill it off....WHERE???? the pics on dwg 42 and 43 arnt clear to me. Also any general help here would be great...THANKS Peter. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rafael" <rafael(at)gforcecable.com>
Subject: Elevator trim rigging
Date: Aug 03, 2007
Hi folks! I would appreciate some help. I'm trying to rig up the electric trim and find that I need to trim away quite a bit of metal to eliminate interference for the full down trim. I followed Van's instructions regarding the positioning of the trim motor mount. As you can see from the pictures, though still within the opening footprint, the actuating rod turned out pretty close to the inboard edge. (I thought about centering the mounts at the time, but decided to trust the plans.) After installing the trim system, there is a slight miss-alignment, but nothing that would cause stress in the system. I made some marks on the max, min, and half-way travel of the actuating rod. I then adjusted the length for no trim at the half-way point. What worries me most is the amount of metal I have to file out to prevent the actuating rod from contacting the elevator under max down trim. As you can see, I've already removed quite a bit of Aluminum. I hesitate to trim further without some reassurance. Van's builder's assistance is closed for the weekend, so I thought I would seek y'alls' help (I recently moved to Aiken, SC, and I'm learning the local grammar ;)) Thanks and best regards, Rafael ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 03, 2007
From: andrew phillips <andrew.phillips(at)sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Elevator trim rigging
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "J. Brunke" <jdoody727(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Elevator trim rigging
Date: Aug 03, 2007
Dear Rafael, I had the same problem, till a more experienced builder told me to put a bend in the threaded rod. It will lift it just slightly and should give you a little more breathing room. Hope that works for you. Sorry I don't have a photo close by to send. John Brunke RV7 in progress ----- Original Message ----- From: Rafael To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Friday, August 03, 2007 6:22 PM Subject: RV7-List: Elevator trim rigging Hi folks! I would appreciate some help. I'm trying to rig up the electric trim and find that I need to trim away quite a bit of metal to eliminate interference for the full down trim. I followed Van's instructions regarding the positioning of the trim motor mount. As you can see from the pictures, though still within the opening footprint, the actuating rod turned out pretty close to the inboard edge. (I thought about centering the mounts at the time, but decided to trust the plans.) After installing the trim system, there is a slight miss-alignment, but nothing that would cause stress in the system. I made some marks on the max, min, and half-way travel of the actuating rod. I then adjusted the length for no trim at the half-way point. What worries me most is the amount of metal I have to file out to prevent the actuating rod from contacting the elevator under max down trim. As you can see, I've already removed quite a bit of Aluminum. I hesitate to trim further without some reassurance. Van's builder's assistance is closed for the weekend, so I thought I would seek y'alls' help (I recently moved to Aiken, SC, and I'm learning the local grammar ;)) Thanks and best regards, Rafael ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rafael" <rafael(at)gforcecable.com>
Subject: Elevator trim rigging
Date: Aug 03, 2007
Thanks! That makes a lot of sense. It's definitely less traumatic than removing al that aluminum. I'll try it. Regards, Rafael _____ From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of J. Brunke Sent: Friday, August 03, 2007 11:04 PM Subject: Re: RV7-List: Elevator trim rigging Dear Rafael, I had the same problem, till a more experienced builder told me to put a bend in the threaded rod. It will lift it just slightly and should give you a little more breathing room. Hope that works for you. Sorry I don't have a photo close by to send. John Brunke RV7 in progress ----- Original Message ----- From: Rafael <mailto:rafael(at)gforcecable.com> Sent: Friday, August 03, 2007 6:22 PM Subject: RV7-List: Elevator trim rigging Hi folks! I would appreciate some help. I'm trying to rig up the electric trim and find that I need to trim away quite a bit of metal to eliminate interference for the full down trim. I followed Van's instructions regarding the positioning of the trim motor mount. As you can see from the pictures, though still within the opening footprint, the actuating rod turned out pretty close to the inboard edge. (I thought about centering the mounts at the time, but decided to trust the plans.) After installing the trim system, there is a slight miss-alignment, but nothing that would cause stress in the system. I made some marks on the max, min, and half-way travel of the actuating rod. I then adjusted the length for no trim at the half-way point. What worries me most is the amount of metal I have to file out to prevent the actuating rod from contacting the elevator under max down trim. As you can see, I've already removed quite a bit of Aluminum. I hesitate to trim further without some reassurance. Van's builder's assistance is closed for the weekend, so I thought I would seek y'alls' help (I recently moved to Aiken, SC, and I'm learning the local grammar ;)) Thanks and best regards, Rafael ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "B Tomm" <fvalarm(at)rapidnet.net>
Subject: Elevator trim rigging
Date: Aug 03, 2007
Rafael, My kit came with two sets of aluminum material to make the horn which is riveted to the trim surface and connects to the rod. One is for manual trim and one for electric. Are you sure that your using the correct one? I don't recall having to trim or enlarge the hole for the rod. Bevan Rv7A wiring _____ From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rafael Sent: Friday, August 03, 2007 5:22 PM Subject: RV7-List: Elevator trim rigging Hi folks! I would appreciate some help. I'm trying to rig up the electric trim and find that I need to trim away quite a bit of metal to eliminate interference for the full down trim. I followed Van's instructions regarding the positioning of the trim motor mount. As you can see from the pictures, though still within the opening footprint, the actuating rod turned out pretty close to the inboard edge. (I thought about centering the mounts at the time, but decided to trust the plans.) After installing the trim system, there is a slight miss-alignment, but nothing that would cause stress in the system. I made some marks on the max, min, and half-way travel of the actuating rod. I then adjusted the length for no trim at the half-way point. What worries me most is the amount of metal I have to file out to prevent the actuating rod from contacting the elevator under max down trim. As you can see, I've already removed quite a bit of Aluminum. I hesitate to trim further without some reassurance. Van's builder's assistance is closed for the weekend, so I thought I would seek y'alls' help (I recently moved to Aiken, SC, and I'm learning the local grammar ;)) Thanks and best regards, Rafael ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rafael" <rafael(at)gforcecable.com>
Subject: Elevator trim rigging
Date: Aug 04, 2007
Bevan, Thanks for your input. I believe I have the correct type installed. I also have two sets of horns: one with the provision for either electric or manual trim, and another for electric trim only. On the one for either installation, there are two sets of holes. One set, further from the trim surface, is for the manual trim. The other, closest to the trim surface, is for electric trim. One is supposed to trim off the excess material for the electric trim installation. On the other set of horns, those for electric trim, there is only one set of holes and no material trimming is necessary. When I compare the set horn for universal installation with the ones for electric installation only, the dimensions are the same after trimming the excess material on the dual ones. Now, if one were to use the manual trim holes on the dual horns in an electric installation, there would indeed be plenty of clearance for the rod. This makes me wonder why did Vans make the electric trim horns so much closer to the trim tab. Thanks and best regards, Rafael _____ From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of B Tomm Sent: Saturday, August 04, 2007 2:23 AM Subject: RE: RV7-List: Elevator trim rigging Rafael, My kit came with two sets of aluminum material to make the horn which is riveted to the trim surface and connects to the rod. One is for manual trim and one for electric. Are you sure that your using the correct one? I don't recall having to trim or enlarge the hole for the rod. Bevan Rv7A wiring _____ From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rafael Sent: Friday, August 03, 2007 5:22 PM Subject: RV7-List: Elevator trim rigging Hi folks! I would appreciate some help. I'm trying to rig up the electric trim and find that I need to trim away quite a bit of metal to eliminate interference for the full down trim. I followed Van's instructions regarding the positioning of the trim motor mount. As you can see from the pictures, though still within the opening footprint, the actuating rod turned out pretty close to the inboard edge. (I thought about centering the mounts at the time, but decided to trust the plans.) After installing the trim system, there is a slight miss-alignment, but nothing that would cause stress in the system. I made some marks on the max, min, and half-way travel of the actuating rod. I then adjusted the length for no trim at the half-way point. What worries me most is the amount of metal I have to file out to prevent the actuating rod from contacting the elevator under max down trim. As you can see, I've already removed quite a bit of Aluminum. I hesitate to trim further without some reassurance. Van's builder's assistance is closed for the weekend, so I thought I would seek y'alls' help (I recently moved to Aiken, SC, and I'm learning the local grammar ;)) Thanks and best regards, Rafael ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rafael" <rafael(at)gforcecable.com>
Subject: Elevator trim rigging
Date: Aug 04, 2007
Thanks again, John for your suggestion. I bent the rod a few degrees and that worked very well. It not only gave me good clearance, but I was also to correct for the slight miss-alignment. I now have another question: I measure a trim control of 20.6 degrees up trim max. and 23.2 degrees down trim max. Van's figures, on section 15: Flight Controls, call for Maximum up/down of 25-35 degrees. That implies to me that a minimum travel of 50 degrees is necessary. I'm getting 43.8 degrees, so there's no way to meet these numbers. It's all that the motor actuator will give. Any comments as to what's going on? Thanks and regards, Rafael _____ From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rafael Sent: Friday, August 03, 2007 10:58 PM Subject: RE: RV7-List: Elevator trim rigging Thanks! That makes a lot of sense. It's definitely less traumatic than removing al that aluminum. I'll try it. Regards, Rafael _____ From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of J. Brunke Sent: Friday, August 03, 2007 11:04 PM Subject: Re: RV7-List: Elevator trim rigging Dear Rafael, I had the same problem, till a more experienced builder told me to put a bend in the threaded rod. It will lift it just slightly and should give you a little more breathing room. Hope that works for you. Sorry I don't have a photo close by to send. John Brunke RV7 in progress ----- Original Message ----- From: Rafael <mailto:rafael(at)gforcecable.com> Sent: Friday, August 03, 2007 6:22 PM Subject: RV7-List: Elevator trim rigging Hi folks! I would appreciate some help. I'm trying to rig up the electric trim and find that I need to trim away quite a bit of metal to eliminate interference for the full down trim. I followed Van's instructions regarding the positioning of the trim motor mount. As you can see from the pictures, though still within the opening footprint, the actuating rod turned out pretty close to the inboard edge. (I thought about centering the mounts at the time, but decided to trust the plans.) After installing the trim system, there is a slight miss-alignment, but nothing that would cause stress in the system. I made some marks on the max, min, and half-way travel of the actuating rod. I then adjusted the length for no trim at the half-way point. What worries me most is the amount of metal I have to file out to prevent the actuating rod from contacting the elevator under max down trim. As you can see, I've already removed quite a bit of Aluminum. I hesitate to trim further without some reassurance. Van's builder's assistance is closed for the weekend, so I thought I would seek y'alls' help (I recently moved to Aiken, SC, and I'm learning the local grammar ;)) Thanks and best regards, Rafael href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV7-List">http://www.matronics.com/ Navigator?RV7-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 04, 2007
From: dhall(at)donka.net
Subject: wing mating
Having some doubt on getting the wings aligned. I've got the wings in place with drift pins. - i carefully leveled the fuse, longitudally and laterally. - I suspended 3 plumb bobs each wing, out/mid/in. - I stretched a line between the outboard bobs. The other 4 bobs were behind the line. Suggests forward sweep. - I restretched the line between the inboard bobs. The outboard bobs were about 1/8-1/4" forward. Also suggests forward sweep. This suggests I have forward sweep. The problem is that I can't nudge the wings to take out the sweep. I have two issues: a) The rear spar is snug against the fuse, mostly interfering with the round head rivet just above the attach point. b) The flap is already very snug to the fuse. In order to take as much as 1/4" sweep out, I calculated that I need between 1/16" and 1/32" movement on the rear spar. Minor trimming around the rivet and the inside edge of the spar would give me the movement I need, but the flap fit is already so snug, nearly perfect, so there's doubt. If I move the wing to take out fwd sweep, It looks like I'll have to do some minor reshaping of the flap to avoid interference with the fuse. Questions: - Anybody else find similar rivet or flap interference? - Is it normal to have to tweak the flap fit along the fuse? - Should I also be concerned about having to trim the rear spar? Thought I was precise on the original cut, but I guess I could have been off by a hair. Man, it was a bear to get the wings in. I don't relish the thought of taking them in/out for trimming and tweaking... Don ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 04, 2007
From: scott bilinski <rv8a2001(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: wing mating
Install the wings with out the flaps and then trim the flaps to fit.......W orked great for me.......what do the instructions say?=0A=0AAlso a picture is worth a thousand words, and its been a few years so I dont remember any rivet problems.=0A =0AScott Bilinski=0ARV-8a=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A----- Orig inal Message ----=0AFrom: "dhall(at)donka.net" <dhall(at)donka.net>=0ATo: rv7-lis t(at)matronics.com=0ASent: Saturday, August 4, 2007 2:05:40 PM=0ASubject: RV7- =0A=0AHaving some doubt on getting the wings aligned.=0A=0AI've got the win gs in place with drift pins. =0A- i carefully leveled the fuse, longitudal ly and laterally.=0A- I suspended 3 plumb bobs each wing, out/mid/in.=0A- I stretched a line between the outboard bobs. The other 4 bobs were=0Abehin d the line. Suggests forward sweep.=0A- I restretched the line between the inboard bobs. The outboard bobs=0Awere about 1/8-1/4" forward. Also sugge sts forward sweep.=0AThis suggests I have forward sweep. =0A=0AThe problem is that I can't nudge the wings to take out the sweep. I=0Ahave two issue s:=0Aa) The rear spar is snug against the fuse, mostly interfering with the =0Around head rivet just above the attach point.=0Ab) The flap is already v ery snug to the fuse. =0A=0AIn order to take as much as 1/4" sweep out, I calculated that I need=0Abetween 1/16" and 1/32" movement on the rear spar. Minor trimming=0Aaround the rivet and the inside edge of the spar would g ive me the=0Amovement I need, but the flap fit is already so snug, nearly p erfect, so=0Athere's doubt. If I move the wing to take out fwd sweep, It lo oks like=0AI'll have to do some minor reshaping of the flap to avoid interf erence=0Awith the fuse.=0A=0AQuestions:=0A- Anybody else find similar rivet or flap interference?=0A- Is it normal to have to tweak the flap fit along the fuse?=0A- Should I also be concerned about having to trim the rear spa r? =0AThought I was precise on the original cut, but I guess I could have b een=0Aoff by a hair. =0A=0AMan, it was a bear to get the wings in. I don' t relish the thought of=0Ataking them in/out for trimming and tweaking... ======0A=0A=0A =0A_________________________________________ ___________________________________________=0ALooking for a deal? Find grea t prices on flights and hotels with Yahoo! FareChase.=0Ahttp://farechase.ya hoo.com/ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Scott R. Shook" <sshook(at)cox.net>
Subject: Elevator trim rigging
Date: Aug 04, 2007
I had the same question when I was working on my Elevators. I believe somewhere in the electric trim instructions it does say that you can put a bend in the threaded rod. Scott R. Shook RV-7A (Building) N696JS (Reserved) _____ From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rafael Sent: Friday, August 03, 2007 17:22 Subject: RV7-List: Elevator trim rigging Hi folks! I would appreciate some help. I'm trying to rig up the electric trim and find that I need to trim away quite a bit of metal to eliminate interference for the full down trim. I followed Van's instructions regarding the positioning of the trim motor mount. As you can see from the pictures, though still within the opening footprint, the actuating rod turned out pretty close to the inboard edge. (I thought about centering the mounts at the time, but decided to trust the plans.) After installing the trim system, there is a slight miss-alignment, but nothing that would cause stress in the system. I made some marks on the max, min, and half-way travel of the actuating rod. I then adjusted the length for no trim at the half-way point. What worries me most is the amount of metal I have to file out to prevent the actuating rod from contacting the elevator under max down trim. As you can see, I've already removed quite a bit of Aluminum. I hesitate to trim further without some reassurance. Van's builder's assistance is closed for the weekend, so I thought I would seek y'alls' help (I recently moved to Aiken, SC, and I'm learning the local grammar ;)) Thanks and best regards, Rafael ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "B Tomm" <fvalarm(at)rapidnet.net>
Subject: wing mating
Date: Aug 04, 2007
Don, I agree with Scott. Also, double check with the plans and call Van's if there are still questions. This is an important step. Primarily due to minimum edge distance requirements on the rear spar. I seem to recall that some sweep forward or aft (1/2'?) is permitted but not sure and I wanted to try and get them perfect. So.... Assuming minimum edge distances are complied with, I trimmed to minimize the sweep. I was able to bet the sweep to be zero. Originally I had left the rear spars slightly long (about 1/16 as I recall). I then trimmed this to clear a rivet head. Five plum bobs worked for me. One from the tail area, one inboard, one outboard on each wing, all hanging at the same time. (I drilled a 3/32 hole in the center of the fuse near the last bulkhead to make a convenient place to drop a plumb line from). I snapped a line on the floor under the wings the full length of the wingspan. I then pulled each wing (only had to do one) to get all the plumb bobs to point to the center of the line. The outboard bobs hung from the last rivet line. This was important because where these bobs intersected the snapped line, I made a mark on the floor. I then measured with a long tape to the bob hanging in the tail. When the left and right triangulations agreed, I knew I had no sweep and straight wings. This was on a RV7A but I think it would be the same on a 8. Good luck Bevan -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of dhall(at)donka.net Sent: Saturday, August 04, 2007 2:06 PM Subject: RV7-List: wing mating Having some doubt on getting the wings aligned. I've got the wings in place with drift pins. - i carefully leveled the fuse, longitudally and laterally. - I suspended 3 plumb bobs each wing, out/mid/in. - I stretched a line between the outboard bobs. The other 4 bobs were behind the line. Suggests forward sweep. - I restretched the line between the inboard bobs. The outboard bobs were about 1/8-1/4" forward. Also suggests forward sweep. This suggests I have forward sweep. The problem is that I can't nudge the wings to take out the sweep. I have two issues: a) The rear spar is snug against the fuse, mostly interfering with the round head rivet just above the attach point. b) The flap is already very snug to the fuse. In order to take as much as 1/4" sweep out, I calculated that I need between 1/16" and 1/32" movement on the rear spar. Minor trimming around the rivet and the inside edge of the spar would give me the movement I need, but the flap fit is already so snug, nearly perfect, so there's doubt. If I move the wing to take out fwd sweep, It looks like I'll have to do some minor reshaping of the flap to avoid interference with the fuse. Questions: - Anybody else find similar rivet or flap interference? - Is it normal to have to tweak the flap fit along the fuse? - Should I also be concerned about having to trim the rear spar? Thought I was precise on the original cut, but I guess I could have been off by a hair. Man, it was a bear to get the wings in. I don't relish the thought of taking them in/out for trimming and tweaking... Don ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Pascal GROELL" <pgroell(at)numericable.com>
Subject: wing mating
Date: Aug 05, 2007
Hello, About the rear spar and rivet interference have a look at this page, about 2/3 down. http://www.jeffsrv-7a.com/WINGS/05-11-20.htm Pascal -----Message d'origine----- De: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] De la part de dhall(at)donka.net Envoy: samedi 4 aot 2007 23:06 : rv7-list(at)matronics.com Objet: RV7-List: wing mating Having some doubt on getting the wings aligned. I've got the wings in place with drift pins. - i carefully leveled the fuse, longitudally and laterally. - I suspended 3 plumb bobs each wing, out/mid/in. - I stretched a line between the outboard bobs. The other 4 bobs were behind the line. Suggests forward sweep. - I restretched the line between the inboard bobs. The outboard bobs were about 1/8-1/4" forward. Also suggests forward sweep. This suggests I have forward sweep. The problem is that I can't nudge the wings to take out the sweep. I have two issues: a) The rear spar is snug against the fuse, mostly interfering with the round head rivet just above the attach point. b) The flap is already very snug to the fuse. In order to take as much as 1/4" sweep out, I calculated that I need between 1/16" and 1/32" movement on the rear spar. Minor trimming around the rivet and the inside edge of the spar would give me the movement I need, but the flap fit is already so snug, nearly perfect, so there's doubt. If I move the wing to take out fwd sweep, It looks like I'll have to do some minor reshaping of the flap to avoid interference with the fuse. Questions: - Anybody else find similar rivet or flap interference? - Is it normal to have to tweak the flap fit along the fuse? - Should I also be concerned about having to trim the rear spar? Thought I was precise on the original cut, but I guess I could have been off by a hair. Man, it was a bear to get the wings in. I don't relish the thought of taking them in/out for trimming and tweaking... Don ________________________________________________________________________________
From: <colfearnow(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: wing mating
Date: Aug 05, 2007
wing mating, DHall, I had the same problem...the wing rear spar was too tight. Van's told me that a 1/4 to 1/2 is not a big concern...but I wanted zero, or at least close to it. I had to trim the two mating surfaces to get the sweep to zero; go slooowwwly and be conservative and it will be perfect. Remove the flap first than work your sweep. I had to trip my flap skin quite a bit to make it clear and look even (on both sides). Again, be conservative and take your time. Ron F. -7A, Canopy/baffling/cowling ----- Original Message ----- From: "RV7-List Digest Server" <rv7-list(at)matronics.com> Sent: Sunday, 05 August, 2007 2:57 AM Subject: RV7-List Digest: 6 Msgs - 08/04/07 > * > > ================================================= > Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive > ================================================= > > Today's complete RV7-List Digest can also be found in either of the > two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest formatted > in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked Indexes > and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII version > of the RV7-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic text editor > such as Notepad or with a web browser. > > HTML Version: > > > http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=html&Chapter 07-08-04&Archive=RV7 > > Text Version: > > > http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=txt&Chapter 07-08-04&Archive=RV7 > > > =============================================== > EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive > =============================================== > > > ---------------------------------------------------------- > RV7-List Digest Archive > --- > Total Messages Posted Sat 08/04/07: 6 > ---------------------------------------------------------- > > > Today's Message Index: > ---------------------- > > 1. 04:52 AM - Re: Elevator trim rigging (Rafael) > 2. 07:58 AM - Re: Elevator trim rigging (Rafael) > 3. 02:06 PM - wing mating (dhall(at)donka.net) > 4. 03:16 PM - Re: wing mating (scott bilinski) > 5. 04:54 PM - Re: Elevator trim rigging (Scott R. Shook) > 6. 05:24 PM - Re: wing mating (B Tomm) > > > ________________________________ Message 1 > _____________________________________ > > > From: "Rafael" <rafael(at)gforcecable.com> > Subject: RE: RV7-List: Elevator trim rigging > > Bevan, > > > Thanks for your input. > > > I believe I have the correct type installed. > > > I also have two sets of horns: one with the provision for either electric > or > manual trim, and another for electric trim only. > > > On the one for either installation, there are two sets of holes. One set, > further from the trim surface, is for the manual trim. The other, closest > to the trim surface, is for electric trim. One is supposed to trim off > the > excess material for the electric trim installation. > > > On the other set of horns, those for electric trim, there is only one set > of > holes and no material trimming is necessary. When I compare the set horn > for universal installation with the ones for electric installation only, > the > dimensions are the same after trimming the excess material on the dual > ones. > > > Now, if one were to use the manual trim holes on the dual horns in an > electric installation, there would indeed be plenty of clearance for the > rod. This makes me wonder why did Vans make the electric trim horns so > much > closer to the trim tab. > > > Thanks and best regards, > > > Rafael > > > _____ > > From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of B Tomm > Sent: Saturday, August 04, 2007 2:23 AM > Subject: RE: RV7-List: Elevator trim rigging > > > Rafael, > > > My kit came with two sets of aluminum material to make the horn which is > riveted to the trim surface and connects to the rod. One is for manual > trim > and one for electric. Are you sure that your using the correct one? I > don't recall having to trim or enlarge the hole for the rod. > > > Bevan > > Rv7A wiring > > > _____ > > From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rafael > Sent: Friday, August 03, 2007 5:22 PM > Subject: RV7-List: Elevator trim rigging > > Hi folks! > > > I would appreciate some help. I'm trying to rig up the electric trim and > find that I need to trim away quite a bit of metal to eliminate > interference > for the full down trim. > > > I followed Van's instructions regarding the positioning of the trim motor > mount. As you can see from the pictures, though still within the opening > footprint, > > the actuating rod turned out pretty close to the inboard edge. (I thought > about centering the mounts at the time, but decided to trust the plans.) > > > After installing the trim system, there is a slight miss-alignment, but > nothing that would cause stress in the system. I made some marks on the > max, min, and half-way travel of the actuating rod. I then adjusted the > length for no trim at the half-way point. > > > What worries me most is the amount of metal I have to file out to prevent > the actuating rod from contacting the elevator under max down trim. As > you > can see, I've already removed quite a bit of Aluminum. I hesitate to trim > further without some reassurance. > > > Van's builder's assistance is closed for the weekend, so I thought I would > seek y'alls' help (I recently moved to Aiken, SC, and I'm learning the > local > grammar ;)) > > > Thanks and best regards, > > > Rafael > > > ________________________________ Message 2 > _____________________________________ > > > From: "Rafael" <rafael(at)gforcecable.com> > Subject: RE: RV7-List: Elevator trim rigging > > Thanks again, John for your suggestion. > > > I bent the rod a few degrees and that worked very well. It not only gave > me > good clearance, but I was also to correct for the slight miss-alignment. > > > I now have another question: I measure a trim control of 20.6 degrees up > trim max. and 23.2 degrees down trim max. Van's figures, on section 15: > Flight Controls, call for Maximum up/down of 25-35 degrees. That implies > to > me that a minimum travel of 50 degrees is necessary. I'm getting 43.8 > degrees, so there's no way to meet these numbers. It's all that the motor > actuator will give. > > > Any comments as to what's going on? > > > Thanks and regards, > > > Rafael > > > _____ > > From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rafael > Sent: Friday, August 03, 2007 10:58 PM > Subject: RE: RV7-List: Elevator trim rigging > > > Thanks! > > > That makes a lot of sense. It's definitely less traumatic than removing > al > that aluminum. > > > I'll try it. > > > Regards, > > > Rafael > > > _____ > > From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of J. Brunke > Sent: Friday, August 03, 2007 11:04 PM > Subject: Re: RV7-List: Elevator trim rigging > > > Dear Rafael, > > > I had the same problem, till a more experienced builder told me to put a > bend in the threaded rod. > > > It will lift it just slightly and should give you a little more breathing > room. > > Hope that works for you. Sorry I don't have a photo close by to send. > > > John Brunke > > RV7 in progress > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: Rafael <mailto:rafael(at)gforcecable.com> > > > Sent: Friday, August 03, 2007 6:22 PM > > Subject: RV7-List: Elevator trim rigging > > > Hi folks! > > > I would appreciate some help. I'm trying to rig up the electric trim and > find that I need to trim away quite a bit of metal to eliminate > interference > for the full down trim. > > > I followed Van's instructions regarding the positioning of the trim motor > mount. As you can see from the pictures, though still within the opening > footprint, > > the actuating rod turned out pretty close to the inboard edge. (I thought > about centering the mounts at the time, but decided to trust the plans.) > > > After installing the trim system, there is a slight miss-alignment, but > nothing that would cause stress in the system. I made some marks on the > max, min, and half-way travel of the actuating rod. I then adjusted the > length for no trim at the half-way point. > > > What worries me most is the amount of metal I have to file out to prevent > the actuating rod from contacting the elevator under max down trim. As > you > can see, I've already removed quite a bit of Aluminum. I hesitate to trim > further without some reassurance. > > > Van's builder's assistance is closed for the weekend, so I thought I would > seek y'alls' help (I recently moved to Aiken, SC, and I'm learning the > local > grammar ;)) > > > Thanks and best regards, > > > Rafael > > > href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV7-List">http://www.matronics.com/ > Navigator?RV7-List > href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com > > > ________________________________ Message 3 > _____________________________________ > > > From: dhall(at)donka.net > Subject: RV7-List: wing mating > > > Having some doubt on getting the wings aligned. > > I've got the wings in place with drift pins. > - i carefully leveled the fuse, longitudally and laterally. > - I suspended 3 plumb bobs each wing, out/mid/in. > - I stretched a line between the outboard bobs. The other 4 bobs were > behind the line. Suggests forward sweep. > - I restretched the line between the inboard bobs. The outboard bobs > were about 1/8-1/4" forward. Also suggests forward sweep. > This suggests I have forward sweep. > > The problem is that I can't nudge the wings to take out the sweep. I > have two issues: > a) The rear spar is snug against the fuse, mostly interfering with the > round head rivet just above the attach point. > b) The flap is already very snug to the fuse. > > In order to take as much as 1/4" sweep out, I calculated that I need > between 1/16" and 1/32" movement on the rear spar. Minor trimming > around the rivet and the inside edge of the spar would give me the > movement I need, but the flap fit is already so snug, nearly perfect, so > there's doubt. If I move the wing to take out fwd sweep, It looks like > I'll have to do some minor reshaping of the flap to avoid interference > with the fuse. > > Questions: > - Anybody else find similar rivet or flap interference? > - Is it normal to have to tweak the flap fit along the fuse? > - Should I also be concerned about having to trim the rear spar? > Thought I was precise on the original cut, but I guess I could have been > off by a hair. > > Man, it was a bear to get the wings in. I don't relish the thought of > taking them in/out for trimming and tweaking... > > Don > > > ________________________________ Message 4 > _____________________________________ > > > From: scott bilinski <rv8a2001(at)yahoo.com> > Subject: Re: RV7-List: wing mating > > Install the wings with out the flaps and then trim the flaps to > fit.......W > orked great for me.......what do the instructions say?=0A=0AAlso a picture > is worth a thousand words, and its been a few years so I dont remember any > rivet problems.=0A =0AScott Bilinski=0ARV-8a=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A----- > Orig > inal Message ----=0AFrom: "dhall(at)donka.net" <dhall(at)donka.net>=0ATo: > rv7-lis > t(at)matronics.com=0ASent: Saturday, August 4, 2007 2:05:40 PM=0ASubject: > RV7- > =0A=0AHaving some doubt on getting the wings aligned.=0A=0AI've got the > win > gs in place with drift pins. =0A- i carefully leveled the fuse, > longitudal > ly and laterally.=0A- I suspended 3 plumb bobs each wing, out/mid/in.=0A- > I > stretched a line between the outboard bobs. The other 4 bobs were=0Abehin > d the line. Suggests forward sweep.=0A- I restretched the line between > the > inboard bobs. The outboard bobs=0Awere about 1/8-1/4" forward. Also sugge > sts forward sweep.=0AThis suggests I have forward sweep. =0A=0AThe > problem > is that I can't nudge the wings to take out the sweep. I=0Ahave two issue > s:=0Aa) The rear spar is snug against the fuse, mostly interfering with > the > =0Around head rivet just above the attach point.=0Ab) The flap is already > v > ery snug to the fuse. =0A=0AIn order to take as much as 1/4" sweep out, I > calculated that I need=0Abetween 1/16" and 1/32" movement on the rear > spar. > Minor trimming=0Aaround the rivet and the inside edge of the spar would g > ive me the=0Amovement I need, but the flap fit is already so snug, nearly > p > erfect, so=0Athere's doubt. If I move the wing to take out fwd sweep, It > lo > oks like=0AI'll have to do some minor reshaping of the flap to avoid > interf > erence=0Awith the fuse.=0A=0AQuestions:=0A- Anybody else find similar > rivet > or flap interference?=0A- Is it normal to have to tweak the flap fit along > the fuse?=0A- Should I also be concerned about having to trim the rear spa > r? =0AThought I was precise on the original cut, but I guess I could have > b > een=0Aoff by a hair. =0A=0AMan, it was a bear to get the wings in. I > don' > t relish the thought of=0Ataking them in/out for trimming and tweaking... > ======0A=0A=0A =0A_________________________________________ > ___________________________________________=0ALooking for a deal? Find > grea > t prices on flights and hotels with Yahoo! > FareChase.=0Ahttp://farechase.ya > hoo.com/ > > ________________________________ Message 5 > _____________________________________ > > > From: "Scott R. Shook" <sshook(at)cox.net> > Subject: RE: RV7-List: Elevator trim rigging > > I had the same question when I was working on my Elevators. I believe > somewhere in the electric trim instructions it does say that you can put a > bend in the threaded rod. > > > Scott R. Shook > RV-7A (Building) > N696JS (Reserved) > > _____ > > From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rafael > Sent: Friday, August 03, 2007 17:22 > Subject: RV7-List: Elevator trim rigging > > > Hi folks! > > > I would appreciate some help. I'm trying to rig up the electric trim and > find that I need to trim away quite a bit of metal to eliminate > interference > for the full down trim. > > > I followed Van's instructions regarding the positioning of the trim motor > mount. As you can see from the pictures, though still within the opening > footprint, > > the actuating rod turned out pretty close to the inboard edge. (I thought > about centering the mounts at the time, but decided to trust the plans.) > > > After installing the trim system, there is a slight miss-alignment, but > nothing that would cause stress in the system. I made some marks on the > max, min, and half-way travel of the actuating rod. I then adjusted the > length for no trim at the half-way point. > > > What worries me most is the amount of metal I have to file out to prevent > the actuating rod from contacting the elevator under max down trim. As > you > can see, I've already removed quite a bit of Aluminum. I hesitate to trim > further without some reassurance. > > > Van's builder's assistance is closed for the weekend, so I thought I would > seek y'alls' help (I recently moved to Aiken, SC, and I'm learning the > local > grammar ;)) > > > Thanks and best regards, > > > Rafael > > > ________________________________ Message 6 > _____________________________________ > > > From: "B Tomm" <fvalarm(at)rapidnet.net> > Subject: RE: RV7-List: wing mating > > > Don, > > I agree with Scott. > > Also, double check with the plans and call Van's if there are still > questions. This is an important step. Primarily due to minimum edge > distance requirements on the rear spar. I seem to recall that some sweep > forward or aft (1/2'?) is permitted but not sure and I wanted to try and > get > them perfect. So.... > > Assuming minimum edge distances are complied with, I trimmed to minimize > the > sweep. I was able to bet the sweep to be zero. Originally I had left the > rear spars slightly long (about 1/16 as I recall). I then trimmed this to > clear a rivet head. > > Five plum bobs worked for me. One from the tail area, one inboard, one > outboard on each wing, all hanging at the same time. (I drilled a 3/32 > hole > in the center of the fuse near the last bulkhead to make a convenient > place > to drop a plumb line from). I snapped a line on the floor under the wings > the full length of the wingspan. I then pulled each wing (only had to do > one) to get all the plumb bobs to point to the center of the line. The > outboard bobs hung from the last rivet line. This was important because > where these bobs intersected the snapped line, I made a mark on the floor. > I then measured with a long tape to the bob hanging in the tail. When > the > left and right triangulations agreed, I knew I had no sweep and straight > wings. > > This was on a RV7A but I think it would be the same on a 8. > > Good luck > > Bevan > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of dhall(at)donka.net > Sent: Saturday, August 04, 2007 2:06 PM > Subject: RV7-List: wing mating > > > Having some doubt on getting the wings aligned. > > I've got the wings in place with drift pins. > - i carefully leveled the fuse, longitudally and laterally. > - I suspended 3 plumb bobs each wing, out/mid/in. > - I stretched a line between the outboard bobs. The other 4 bobs were > behind the line. Suggests forward sweep. > - I restretched the line between the inboard bobs. The outboard bobs were > about 1/8-1/4" forward. Also suggests forward sweep. > This suggests I have forward sweep. > > The problem is that I can't nudge the wings to take out the sweep. I have > two issues: > a) The rear spar is snug against the fuse, mostly interfering with the > round head rivet just above the attach point. > b) The flap is already very snug to the fuse. > > In order to take as much as 1/4" sweep out, I calculated that I need > between > 1/16" and 1/32" movement on the rear spar. Minor trimming around the > rivet > and the inside edge of the spar would give me the movement I need, but the > flap fit is already so snug, nearly perfect, so there's doubt. If I move > the > wing to take out fwd sweep, It looks like I'll have to do some minor > reshaping of the flap to avoid interference with the fuse. > > Questions: > - Anybody else find similar rivet or flap interference? > - Is it normal to have to tweak the flap fit along the fuse? > - Should I also be concerned about having to trim the rear spar? > Thought I was precise on the original cut, but I guess I could have been > off > by a hair. > > Man, it was a bear to get the wings in. I don't relish the thought of > taking them in/out for trimming and tweaking... > > Don > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob Collins" <bcollinsrv7a(at)comcast.net>
Subject: wing mating
Date: Aug 05, 2007
I went with the Van's method... I had a 1/8" sweep and paid attention to the Van's "get real" admonishment, mostly because I'm not an engineer and they are. But I can see where people strive for perfection. The question I have in this regard is what IS the flying difference between, say, 0 sweep and 1/45" sweep. One warning to all -- The "window" (i.e. the area) to drill the bolt hole in the rear spar fork is MUCH smaller than most people think. Be very careful about how much you remove in that area. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of colfearnow(at)earthlink.net Sent: Sunday, August 05, 2007 7:14 AM Subject: RV7-List: wing mating wing mating, DHall, I had the same problem...the wing rear spar was too tight. Van's told me that a 1/4 to 1/2 is not a big concern...but I wanted zero, or at least close to it. I had to trim the two mating surfaces to get the sweep to zero; go slooowwwly and be conservative and it will be perfect. Remove the flap first than work your sweep. I had to trip my flap skin quite a bit to make it clear and look even (on both sides). Again, be conservative and take your time. Ron F. -7A, Canopy/baffling/cowling ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "springcanyon" <springcanyon(at)methow.com>
Subject: Elevator trim rigging
Date: Aug 05, 2007
Hi Rafael, Thanks for the post. I have just been working on the same thing. Now I need to hook up the actuating rod and see if I have the same problem. If it does, Ill let you know. In the mean time, thanks for making me aware of a potential problem. Don Owens Hi folks! I would appreciate some help. Im trying to rig up the electric trim and find that I need to trim away quite a bit of metal to eliminate interference for the full down trim. I followed Vans instructions regarding the positioning of the trim motor mount. As you can see from the pictures, though still within the opening footprint, the actuating rod turned out pretty close to the inboard edge. (I thought about centering the mounts at the time, but decided to trust the plans.) After installing the trim system, there is a slight miss-alignment, but nothing that would cause stress in the system. I made some marks on the max, min, and half-way travel of the actuating rod. I then adjusted the length for no trim at the half-way point. What worries me most is the amount of metal I have to file out to prevent the actuating rod from contacting the elevator under max down trim. As you can see, Ive already removed quite a bit of Aluminum. I hesitate to trim further without some reassurance. Vans builders assistance is closed for the weekend, so I thought I would seek yalls help (I recently moved to Aiken, SC, and Im learning the local grammar ;)) Thanks and best regards, Rafael 2:22 PM ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "William Gill" <wgill10(at)comcast.net>
Subject: wing mating
Date: Aug 05, 2007
The "window" is indeed very small. IIRC, I had a window 1/16" wide X 5/32" tall. Bill -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Collins Sent: Sunday, August 05, 2007 9:07 AM Subject: RE: RV7-List: wing mating I went with the Van's method... I had a 1/8" sweep and paid attention to the Van's "get real" admonishment, mostly because I'm not an engineer and they are. But I can see where people strive for perfection. The question I have in this regard is what IS the flying difference between, say, 0 sweep and 1/45" sweep. One warning to all -- The "window" (i.e. the area) to drill the bolt hole in the rear spar fork is MUCH smaller than most people think. Be very careful about how much you remove in that area. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of colfearnow(at)earthlink.net Sent: Sunday, August 05, 2007 7:14 AM Subject: RV7-List: wing mating wing mating, DHall, I had the same problem...the wing rear spar was too tight. Van's told me that a 1/4 to 1/2 is not a big concern...but I wanted zero, or at least close to it. I had to trim the two mating surfaces to get the sweep to zero; go slooowwwly and be conservative and it will be perfect. Remove the flap first than work your sweep. I had to trip my flap skin quite a bit to make it clear and look even (on both sides). Again, be conservative and take your time. Ron F. -7A, Canopy/baffling/cowling ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "springcanyon" <springcanyon(at)methow.com>
Subject: Elevator trim rigging
Date: Aug 06, 2007
Rafael, Well, I checked the actuating rod on my elevator trim system and found that it also had too much interference. I took it all apart and removed some sheet metal where it was rubbing. Also I used a sander and ground the threads off in the middle portion of the rod so it would not bind if it did rub on the sheet metal. Now it only rubs the sheet metal in an extreme nose down trim position. If I need that much nose down trip perhaps I should remove the excess weight from my baggage compartment. :-) Don 2:22 PM ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Dave Cudney <yenduc(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Elevator trim rigging
Date: Aug 08, 2007
Rafael: I just got back from a trip and saw your question about the trim travel. I measured mine today and it is very close to your measurement. I have 20.3 up trim (down movement of the trim tab) and 24.8 down trim (up movement of the trim tab) for a total of 45.3. As I recall from the last RV that I flew you use very little of the trim tab to adjust for approach speed and curse. I see no method of getting more travel without changing the trim servo. Maybe someone else has a method to get more travel from the servo. good luck dave RV 7A Starting on the cowling On Aug 4, 2007, at 7:54 AM, Rafael wrote: > Thanks again, John for your suggestion. > > > I bent the rod a few degrees and that worked very well. It not > only gave me good clearance, but I was also to correct for the > slight miss-alignment. > > > I now have another question: I measure a trim control of 20.6 > degrees up trim max. and 23.2 degrees down trim max. Van=92s > figures, on section 15: Flight Controls, call for Maximum up/down > of 25-35 degrees. That implies to me that a minimum travel of 50 > degrees is necessary. I=92m getting 43.8 degrees, so there=92s no way > to meet these numbers. It=92s all that the motor actuator will give. > > > Any comments as to what=92s going on? > > > Thanks and regards, > > > Rafael > > > From: owner-rv7-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv7-list- > server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rafael > Sent: Friday, August 03, 2007 10:58 PM > To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RE: RV7-List: Elevator trim rigging > > > Thanks! > > > That makes a lot of sense. It=92s definitely less traumatic than > removing al that aluminum. > > > I=92ll try it.


April 26, 2007 - August 08, 2007

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