RV8-List Archive Browser

RV8-Archive.digest.vol-ac
January 21, 2002 - September 20, 2002

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From: "Bill Sanford" <bsanford(at)silverlink.net>
Subject: Re: (no subject)
Date: Jan 21, 2002
Will do and I think you're ok leaving it "dry". Bill ----- Original Message ----- From: <JamesTSherry(at)cs.com> Subject: RV8-List: (no subject) > > Hi, I would be interested in an insulation kit for my RV-8 QB. It is a great > idea and thanks for the effort of trying first!! I just started the wings. > Question: Does the WD-421 need any lubricant on the brass bushing. I reamed > it out and it rotates very freely. I was just wondering what the effect of > metal on metal would have after prolonged use. Thanks, Jim Sherry Boulder, > CO > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "BUTLER, FRANCIS" <FRANCIS_BUTLER@butler-machinery.com>
Subject:
Date: Jan 21, 2002
There are two of us in Fargo that would appreciate firewall forward photo's of IO-360 200 HP installations, especially if you have an inverted oil system and smoke system installed. We are looking for some BEST practices of installing oil coolers, cabin heat inverted oil and smoke systems on the RV8. If anyone has digital photos and information that they would like to share please email to the address below. Thank you, Francis Butler Butler Machinery Co. (701) 298-1758 direct (701) 476-3208 fax francis_butler@butler-machinery.com -----Original Message----- From: Bill Sanford [mailto:bsanford(at)silverlink.net] Subject: Re: RV8-List: (no subject) Will do and I think you're ok leaving it "dry". Bill ----- Original Message ----- From: <JamesTSherry(at)cs.com> Subject: RV8-List: (no subject) > > Hi, I would be interested in an insulation kit for my RV-8 QB. It is a great > idea and thanks for the effort of trying first!! I just started the wings. > Question: Does the WD-421 need any lubricant on the brass bushing. I reamed > it out and it rotates very freely. I was just wondering what the effect of > metal on metal would have after prolonged use. Thanks, Jim Sherry Boulder, > CO > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ed Perry" <eperry(at)san.rr.com>

Subject: Micro Encoder Eprom and Accessory
Date: Jan 24, 2002
I have upgraded my u-encoder to version 11.2 and have an unused version 10.02 eprom and crystal if anybody wants to upgrade an older unit to use Fahrenheit and use your GPS info serial port plus more. Anyway it sells for $35 and if you are interested the first one to respond gets it for shipping cost. Sounds like a good deal to me. Ed Perry eperry(at)san.rr.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 28, 2002
From: TwoAviators <TwoAviators(at)lexcominc.net>
Subject: Torque engine mount bolts? DAR?
Whats the torque value on the bolts that hold the engine mount to the firewall structure? Anybody reccomend a DAR in the central NOrth Carolina area? Thanks Dan Ward N4176SN (almost there) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Sally and George" <aeronut58(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Torque engine mount bolts? DAR?
Date: Jan 28, 2002
As I recall, 225 in-pounds. You can check it for yourself...I think (from memory) that these are AN-6 bolts with AN310 nuts. Check that on the engine mount drawing and then look in the front of your builder's manual...there's a table of torque values in Chapter 5. George N888GK Flying in Dallas >From: TwoAviators <TwoAviators(at)lexcominc.net> >Reply-To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com >To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: RV8-List: Torque engine mount bolts? DAR? >Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2002 14:03:19 -0500 > > >Whats the torque value on the bolts that hold the engine mount to the >firewall structure? > >Anybody reccomend a DAR in the central NOrth Carolina area? > >Thanks > >Dan Ward >N4176SN (almost there) > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ed Perry" <eperry(at)san.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Torque engine mount bolts? DAR?
Date: Jan 29, 2002
Isn't that too long for an N#? Ed Perry eperry(at)san.rr.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "TwoAviators" <TwoAviators(at)lexcominc.net> Subject: RV8-List: Torque engine mount bolts? DAR? > > Whats the torque value on the bolts that hold the engine mount to the > firewall structure? > > Anybody reccomend a DAR in the central NOrth Carolina area? > > Thanks > > Dan Ward > N4176SN (almost there) > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: LDean97765(at)aol.com
Date: Jan 29, 2002
Subject: Re: Electric elevator trim
I have recently ordered an RV-8 Quickbuild. I have to decide on a manual elevator trim or an electric one. I have heard pros and cons about both but I am still trying to decide. Please give me any feedback. Thank you , Bob Dean ________________________________________________________________________________
From: N188rv(at)aol.com
Date: Jan 29, 2002
Subject: Re: Electric elevator trim
Bob, I have elec elevator trim in my RV-8 and really like it. The range of movement throughout the different speed requires a lot of trim change. I also installed a manual aileron trim which is a complete waste of time. Have been flying my 8 since Dec. Stan Mehrhoff ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Thomas Yeager" <tdy(at)forcomm.net>
Subject: VHF Antenna
Date: Jan 30, 2002
I bought a bent whip antenna from Van's, and was wondering where to install it on the fuselage bottom. What would be the best way to mount it and run the cable to the panel. Thanks. Tom Yeager RV8 fuselage ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "colin jordan" <cjordan(at)silk.net>
Subject: Template for F802A
Date: Jan 30, 2002
Greetings to all on the list. I am building an 8 and am presently working on the Landing Gear Boxes. On Orndorf's Video he shows a template for drilling the holes in the F802A&B but I have no idea where to find this template ! It's not in my plans and Vans' does not have any knowledge of it. Can any one help ?Perhaps if some one has it they could send it to me at cjordan(at)silk.net Also I am in the market for an Inverted oil system if any one has one for sale. Thanks , from frozen Kelowna B.C. Colin. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: romeo.victor@t-online.de (Stephan Servatius)
Subject: Re: VHF Antenna
Date: Jan 30, 2002
Almost center of fuselage, slightly left of the overlapped skin. Seal with RTV, route the cable through the baffles and wing center(grommet). Stephan Servatius RV8 not yet airborne Germany Thomas Yeager schrieb: > > I bought a bent whip antenna from Van's, and was wondering where to > install it on the fuselage bottom. What would be the best way to mount > it and run the cable to the panel. Thanks. Tom Yeager RV8 fuselage > > Stephan Servatius Untere Hauptstr. 3 85461 Bockhorn Germany ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Sally and George" <aeronut58(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: VHF Antenna
Date: Jan 30, 2002
Tom: I put mine on the right side fuselage bottom using a doubler plate inside. The coax connection is centered between the right hand seat ribs and about 2 inches behind the aileron push rod. Works fine. The transponder antenna is mounted in a similar location on the left side. George N888GK >From: "Thomas Yeager" <tdy(at)forcomm.net> >Reply-To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com >To: >Subject: RV8-List: VHF Antenna >Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2002 08:54:27 -0500 > > >I bought a bent whip antenna from Van's, and was wondering where to >install it on the fuselage bottom. What would be the best way to mount >it and run the cable to the panel. Thanks. Tom Yeager RV8 fuselage > > MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Sally and George" <aeronut58(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Electric elevator trim
Date: Jan 30, 2002
Bob: I have manual elevator trim and it works fine in all flight regimes. I have manual aileron trim and it's power is limited. Also, it seems to introduce some additional stiffness into the aileron control circuit. If I had it to do over again, I'd stay with the manual elevator trim (KISS) but go with electric aileron trim. George N888GK >From: LDean97765(at)aol.com >Reply-To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com >To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: RV8-List: Re: Electric elevator trim >Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2002 23:05:53 EST > > >I have recently ordered an RV-8 Quickbuild. I have to decide on a manual >elevator trim or an electric one. I have heard pros and cons about both >but >I am still trying to decide. Please give me any feedback. > >Thank you , > >Bob Dean > > Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bill Sanford" <bsanford(at)silverlink.net>
Subject: Re: VHF Antenna
Date: Jan 30, 2002
Put mine right down there in the left footwell area. Just make sure there's room for everything else going on in that busy area. Then you can run the cable unobtrusively next to and under the "skeleton". Good luck. Bill ----- Original Message ----- From: "Thomas Yeager" <tdy(at)forcomm.net> Subject: RV8-List: VHF Antenna > > I bought a bent whip antenna from Van's, and was wondering where to > install it on the fuselage bottom. What would be the best way to mount > it and run the cable to the panel. Thanks. Tom Yeager RV8 fuselage > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "G. Miller" <gvm(at)srv.net>
Subject: Re: Electric elevator trim
Date: Jan 30, 2002
I have the electrical elevator and aileron. I like it ok, though the elevator trim is a tad sensitive at full speed. Never seen the manual... I did the QB 8 too, N89GM. Be happy to send my build log if you want. gvm(at)cableone.net -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of LDean97765(at)aol.com Subject: RV8-List: Re: Electric elevator trim I have recently ordered an RV-8 Quickbuild. I have to decide on a manual elevator trim or an electric one. I have heard pros and cons about both but I am still trying to decide. Please give me any feedback. Thank you , Bob Dean ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "G. Miller" <gvm(at)srv.net>
Subject: VHF Antenna
Date: Jan 30, 2002
I put mine VHF right under the front seat, through the overlap down the center on the fues bottom. That way I didn't need another doubler. I ran my coax, bundeled with the M/B boat antena and transponder ant coax) through the center cutout in the wing carry through, then along the forward bottom of the carry through, then under the fuel valve into the left gear box to the radio. N89GM, QB 8 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Thomas Yeager Subject: RV8-List: VHF Antenna I bought a bent whip antenna from Van's, and was wondering where to install it on the fuselage bottom. What would be the best way to mount it and run the cable to the panel. Thanks. Tom Yeager RV8 fuselage ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Helifoto(at)aol.com
Date: Jan 30, 2002
Subject: Re: Electric elevator trim
Go with the electric elevator AND aileron trim, because the coolie hat on the stick is way cool ! ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Shane Summerhays" <ssummerhays(at)attbi.com>
Subject: aileron trim
Date: Jan 31, 2002
I would stick with the manual aileron trim and for sure use electric elevator trim The aileron trim really does not do much at all. it simply puts spring tension on the pushrods, the one van supplies works perfect for this application. Shane Slc R-V6 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bill or Heather Cowden" <cowdens(at)peoplepc.com>
Subject: rear seat rudder pedals
Date: Feb 02, 2002
I have decided to not install the pedals I bought. They are powder coated white. Vans gets $92 for them, let me know what you are willing to give. I also want to go with electric aileron trim and am willing to sell or trade up my manual set. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: N188rv(at)aol.com
Date: Feb 04, 2002
Subject: Re: rear seat rudder pedals
I would keep the pedals and not install aileron trim. I have rear pedals and aileron trim (manual). Stan Mehrhoff ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "G. Miller" <gvm(at)srv.net>
Subject: rear seat rudder pedals
Date: Feb 04, 2002
I disagree about the aileron trim. I have electric and use it on every flight. Greg Miller RV8 N89GM -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of N188rv(at)aol.com Subject: Re: RV8-List: rear seat rudder pedals I would keep the pedals and not install aileron trim. I have rear pedals and aileron trim (manual). Stan Mehrhoff ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Clark, Thomas IFC" <Tom.Clark(at)UTCFuelCells.com>
Subject: Seattle Visit
Date: Feb 05, 2002
Seattle area builders, I will be at Boeing the week of the 11th and was wondering if there is any local -8 builders in the later stages of construction that would like visit from someone at a similar state. We can trade this is what I was thinking stories!! I will be bored in a hotel Monday through Thurs. night. Tom Clark RV-8 Fastback ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Vince" <vhimsl(at)turbonet.com>
Subject: Super Sound Proofing Request
Date: Feb 04, 2002
Hello, I am finally at the stage where I can do something besides rivet aluminum. I am going to order the Super Sound Proofing in my RV-8 and would appreciate some input from anyone who has installed it. Specifically, how much and what kind of the stuff to order and if it really worked! Thanks, Vince Himsl RV-8 SB Canoe Moscow, ID USA ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 05, 2002
From: old ogre <jollyd(at)ipns.com>
Subject: RV8A for sale
98% or more completed from quick build...painted....extra canopy...rear rudder peds...VFR day....0320..SMOH...160hp....new C/S prop...NO PIX, sorry....new upholstry...vettermann exhaust...Com11B....transpond......rocket gear fairings...$65,000 jollyd(at)ipns.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 05, 2002
From: Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca>
Subject: Mag compass in panel?
I'm messing around trying to freeze the design of the instrument panel on my RV-8. My preferred layout has the magnetic compass in the panel, rather than on top of the glareshield (I want my g-meter on top of the glareshield). The compass will be one hole down and right from the DG (which is electric), and just to the left of the Grand Rapids EIS engine monitor. You can see a poor quality rendition of my proposed layout at: <http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/finishing_kit/fk05.html>. I'm wondering whether I have much chance to make this work, or whether I will probably run into problems getting the compass swung OK. I would love to hear from people who have a compass in the panel - how did the compass swing go? What type of compass do you have? What electrically powered stuff is in the vicinity of your compass. Yes, I have wondered how much I will actually use the compass, given I've got a GPS. But, I guess I'm an old fashioned kind of guy, and I still hope to get the compass swung reasonably close. Thanks, -- Kevin Horton RV-8 (installing engine & electrics) Ottawa, Canada http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "RV_8 Pilot" <rv_8pilot(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Mag compass in panel?
Date: Feb 05, 2002
Mine is mounted in the upper right part of the panel and has almost no deviation. Bryan Jones -8 Pearland, Texas Join the worlds largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. http://www.hotmail.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "colin jordan" <cjordan(at)silk.net>
Subject: Gear box F802A&B
Date: Feb 05, 2002
A few days ago I made an inquire about a template for drilling the holes on the F802 A&B that are at the bottom end of the bulkhead . At the risk of sounding rude did anyone get the message .It was my first go at asking a question on the list and I am not sure if I did it correctly.Any answer would be appreciated if only to cater to my technical insecurities. Colin. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Sally and George" <aeronut58(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Gear box F802A&B
Date: Feb 06, 2002
Colin: The "template" for drilling F802 A & B at the bottom are the holes you drilled in the F-802G & H floor angles. See drawing 24, secion D-D (lower left hand corner of the sheet). George N888GK Flying >From: "colin jordan" <cjordan(at)silk.net> >Reply-To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com >To: >Subject: RV8-List: Gear box F802A&B >Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2002 23:45:23 -0800 > > >A few days ago I made an inquire about a template for drilling the holes >on the F802 A&B that are at the bottom end of the bulkhead . >At the risk of sounding rude did anyone get the message .It was my first >go at asking a question on the list and I am not sure if I did it >correctly.Any answer would be appreciated if only to cater to my >technical insecurities. >Colin. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Vince Himsl" <vhimsl(at)turbonet.com>
Subject: Gear box F802A&B
Date: Feb 06, 2002
I replied, check the archives. Sorry you didn't get my message. Don't worry, if you say something others don't like you'll hear about it. Welcome to the wild west of the internet! Vince Himsl RV8 SB Fuselage Canoe Moscow, ID USA ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "G. Miller" <gvm(at)srv.net>
Subject: Gear box F802A&B
Date: Feb 06, 2002
Ya, this is a slow responding bunch sometimes...no really, there isn't a lot of traffic on this group (thankfully). One thing I recommend is to be descriptive of the item you're working on--some of us have forgotten the part numbers but dearly remember the problem. Hey, here's a recommendation for you who have no finished the instr panel: cut a BIG access hole in the bulkhead separting the instrument bay from the forward luggage bay. I riveted nut plates around the perimeter then cut a cover for it. In maintenance, it has saved me no end of grief when mucking about behind the panel. Greg Miller RV8 N89GM, 105 flying hours now. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of colin jordan Subject: RV8-List: Gear box F802A&B A few days ago I made an inquire about a template for drilling the holes on the F802 A&B that are at the bottom end of the bulkhead . At the risk of sounding rude did anyone get the message .It was my first go at asking a question on the list and I am not sure if I did it correctly.Any answer would be appreciated if only to cater to my technical insecurities. Colin. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "G. Miller" <gvm(at)srv.net>
Subject: Super Sound Proofing Request
Date: Feb 06, 2002
Vince, I went through the decision process on that too, but was told it doesn't do much good. Now that I'm flying behind a fixed Sensenich, I understand. After the first flight I had to buy a noise canceling headset. The noise is *very* intense, but it's in the low frequencies, where sound pads don't do much to attenuate it, but the headset works great. You might think it will at least provide thermal insulation, but again it turned out for me that plugging all the drafts is about impossible. So a barrier to conductive heat transfer doesn't help much when the problem is convective transfer, ah..wind chill! I put two heaters in mine too, one on each exhaust pipe. Warm from the waist down this time of year. Greg Miller Idaho Falls, ID -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Vince Subject: RV8-List: Super Sound Proofing Request Hello, I am finally at the stage where I can do something besides rivet aluminum. I am going to order the Super Sound Proofing in my RV-8 and would appreciate some input from anyone who has installed it. Specifically, how much and what kind of the stuff to order and if it really worked! Thanks, Vince Himsl RV-8 SB Canoe Moscow, ID USA ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "G. Miller" <gvm(at)srv.net>
Subject: Mag compass in panel?
Date: Feb 06, 2002
Ah, nice panel design! but where's the car stereo/CD player? Looks like it would fit under your audio panel--they are a bit wider than a plane radio. That is the location I put mine, and it's perfect. My left hand is either on the throttle, and/or just above it on the flap switch (where your left most breaker is) or adjusting the stereo volume. When you put the stereo in make sure you put one of those radio shack power conditioners on it, or the CD spindle motor A/C power noise will leak into you intercom and ruin Led Zeppelin. Part number 270-030, about 5$ and very worth it. I put my compass where your G meter is and have not had to recalibrate it. Greg N89GM -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Kevin Horton Subject: RV8-List: Mag compass in panel? I'm messing around trying to freeze the design of the instrument panel on my RV-8. My preferred layout has the magnetic compass in the panel, rather than on top of the glareshield (I want my g-meter on top of the glareshield). The compass will be one hole down and right from the DG (which is electric), and just to the left of the Grand Rapids EIS engine monitor. You can see a poor quality rendition of my proposed layout at: <http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/finishing_kit/fk05.html>. I'm wondering whether I have much chance to make this work, or whether I will probably run into problems getting the compass swung OK. I would love to hear from people who have a compass in the panel - how did the compass swing go? What type of compass do you have? What electrically powered stuff is in the vicinity of your compass. Yes, I have wondered how much I will actually use the compass, given I've got a GPS. But, I guess I'm an old fashioned kind of guy, and I still hope to get the compass swung reasonably close. Thanks, -- Kevin Horton RV-8 (installing engine & electrics) Ottawa, Canada http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 06, 2002
From: Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca>
Subject: Re: Gear box F802A&B
The RV-List is a great list for generic RV questions, etc. But for RV-8 or -8A specific questions there is another e-mail list that seems to be better, IMHO. Try the rv8 list at yahoo, <http://groups.yahoo.com/group/rv8list/>. There aren't near as many messages, but the signal to noise ratio is a lot higher, and there seem to be more RV-8/8A guys there than on the RV-List. Kevin Horton >--> RV-List message posted by: "G. Miller" > >Ya, this is a slow responding bunch sometimes...no really, there isn't a lot >of traffic on this group (thankfully). One thing I recommend is to be >descriptive of the item you're working on--some of us have forgotten the >part numbers but dearly remember the problem. > >Hey, here's a recommendation for you who have no finished the instr panel: >cut a BIG access hole in the bulkhead separting the instrument bay from the >forward luggage bay. I riveted nut plates around the perimeter then cut a >cover for it. In maintenance, it has saved me no end of grief when mucking >about behind the panel. > >Greg Miller >RV8 N89GM, 105 flying hours now. > > >-----Original Message----- >From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com >[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of colin jordan >To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: RV8-List: Gear box F802A&B > > >A few days ago I made an inquire about a template for drilling the holes >on the F802 A&B that are at the bottom end of the bulkhead . >At the risk of sounding rude did anyone get the message .It was my first >go at asking a question on the list and I am not sure if I did it >correctly.Any answer would be appreciated if only to cater to my >technical insecurities. >Colin. > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 06, 2002
From: Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca>
Subject: Mag compass in panel?
I'm figuring by the time I get this thing flying I'll be able to buy a $20 iPod that'll hold every song every written :). Seriously, I've got a portable CD player now that I might use, but I'm hoping the iPod prices will come down a bit by then. Take care, Kevin > >Ah, nice panel design! but where's the car stereo/CD player? Looks like it >would fit under your audio panel--they are a bit wider than a plane radio. >That is the location I put mine, and it's perfect. My left hand is either on >the throttle, and/or just above it on the flap switch (where your left most >breaker is) or adjusting the stereo volume. > >When you put the stereo in make sure you put one of those radio shack power >conditioners on it, or the CD spindle motor A/C power noise will leak into >you intercom and ruin Led Zeppelin. Part number 270-030, about 5$ and very >worth it. > >I put my compass where your G meter is and have not had to recalibrate it. > >Greg >N89GM > >-----Original Message----- >From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com >[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Kevin Horton >To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com; rv8list(at)yahoogroups.com >Subject: RV8-List: Mag compass in panel? > > >I'm messing around trying to freeze the design of the instrument >panel on my RV-8. My preferred layout has the magnetic compass in >the panel, rather than on top of the glareshield (I want my g-meter >on top of the glareshield). The compass will be one hole down and >right from the DG (which is electric), and just to the left of the >Grand Rapids EIS engine monitor. You can see a poor quality >rendition of my proposed layout at: ><http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/finishing_kit/fk05.html>. > >I'm wondering whether I have much chance to make this work, or >whether I will probably run into problems getting the compass swung >OK. I would love to hear from people who have a compass in the panel >- how did the compass swing go? What type of compass do you have? >What electrically powered stuff is in the vicinity of your compass. > >Yes, I have wondered how much I will actually use the compass, given >I've got a GPS. But, I guess I'm an old fashioned kind of guy, and I >still hope to get the compass swung reasonably close. > >Thanks, >-- >Kevin Horton RV-8 (installing engine & electrics) >Ottawa, Canada >http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "G. Miller" <gvm(at)srv.net>
Subject: Gear box F802A&B
Date: Feb 06, 2002
I just tried that site. First I saw an obstrusive colorful blinking advetisement. End of site. Greg -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Kevin Horton Subject: Re: RV-List: RE: RV8-List: Gear box F802A&B The RV-List is a great list for generic RV questions, etc. But for RV-8 or -8A specific questions there is another e-mail list that seems to be better, IMHO. Try the rv8 list at yahoo, <http://groups.yahoo.com/group/rv8list/>. There aren't near as many messages, but the signal to noise ratio is a lot higher, and there seem to be more RV-8/8A guys there than on the RV-List. Kevin Horton >--> RV-List message posted by: "G. Miller" > >Ya, this is a slow responding bunch sometimes...no really, there isn't a lot >of traffic on this group (thankfully). One thing I recommend is to be >descriptive of the item you're working on--some of us have forgotten the >part numbers but dearly remember the problem. > >Hey, here's a recommendation for you who have no finished the instr panel: >cut a BIG access hole in the bulkhead separting the instrument bay from the >forward luggage bay. I riveted nut plates around the perimeter then cut a >cover for it. In maintenance, it has saved me no end of grief when mucking >about behind the panel. > >Greg Miller >RV8 N89GM, 105 flying hours now. > > >-----Original Message----- >From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com >[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of colin jordan >To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: RV8-List: Gear box F802A&B > > >A few days ago I made an inquire about a template for drilling the holes >on the F802 A&B that are at the bottom end of the bulkhead . >At the risk of sounding rude did anyone get the message .It was my first >go at asking a question on the list and I am not sure if I did it >correctly.Any answer would be appreciated if only to cater to my >technical insecurities. >Colin. > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com>
Subject: Panel access
Date: Feb 06, 2002
I've all but decided not to do as you suggest...because I figure I can unscrew the center section of the panel and gain access. What's wrong with this plan? Thanks, - Larry Bowen RV-8 fwd baggage door Larry(at)BowenAero.com http://BowenAero.com > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of G. Miller > > Hey, here's a recommendation for you who have no finished the > instr panel: cut a BIG access hole in the bulkhead separting > the instrument bay from the forward luggage bay. I riveted > nut plates around the perimeter then cut a cover for it. In > maintenance, it has saved me no end of grief when mucking > about behind the panel. > > Greg Miller > RV8 N89GM, 105 flying hours now. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "G. Miller" <gvm(at)srv.net>
Subject: Panel access
Date: Feb 06, 2002
I designed my panel to come out the way you suggest, so I can take it home to work on it. I have many times now. But before it comes out, I use the access panel to disconnect many items, following is my panel removal checklist: Center Panel Removal Procedure 1. From cockpit, under rear of stereo, remove vacuum filter hoses (2), unscrew vacuum filter (platenut), and set aside. 2. Open forward baggage door, and rear instrument panel access door. 3. Disconnect Horizon gyro filter and vacuum hoses, verify label, and cover openings with tape. 4. Disconnect Direction gyro filter and vacuum hoses, verify label, and cover openings with tape. 5. Disconnect 24-pin (carefully!) Molex connector. 6. Disconnect fuel pump switch 2-pin Molex connector. 7. Disconnect six-pin connector from pigtail in 14, above KMA-24/KX-155 8. Disconnect EGT 2-pin Molex connector. 9. Disconnect CHT 2-pin Molex connector. 10. Disconnect single (in 3-pin) Molex connector: radio master power. 11. Unscrew turn coordinator plug from T/C 12. Disconnect wire harness from EPM 13. Disconnect manifold pressure tube from EPM 14. Disconnect comm. antenna BNC, under access port opening, coax #H 15. Disconnect MB antenna BNC, behind KX-155, coax #70 16. Disconnect G/S antenna BNC from triplexer, bottom inboard, behind KX-155 17. Disconnect VOR antenna BNC from triplexer, top inboard, behind KX-155 18. Disconnect FM antenna from triplexer, top outboard, behind KX-155 19. Disconnect pitot tube at A/S indicator, verify label, and cover opening with tape. 20. Disconnect static tube at A/S indicator, verify label, and cover opening with tape. 21. Disconnect encoder static tube at VSI, verify label, and cover opening with tape. 22. Disconnect large serial port type connector from intercom, above KMA-24/KX-155. Inboard screw needs to be loosened first. Upon install tighten inboard screw! 23. Vans CHT: detach thermocouple cable from top two terminals. Yellow to + (inboard), red to (outboard). Unscrew from panel first and lower for access. 24. Remove GPS mount 25. Cockpit, remove center panel screws. 26. Carefully work panel straight back. 27. End Greg -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Larry Bowen Subject: RV8-List: Panel access I've all but decided not to do as you suggest...because I figure I can unscrew the center section of the panel and gain access. What's wrong with this plan? Thanks, - Larry Bowen RV-8 fwd baggage door Larry(at)BowenAero.com http://BowenAero.com > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of G. Miller > > Hey, here's a recommendation for you who have no finished the > instr panel: cut a BIG access hole in the bulkhead separting > the instrument bay from the forward luggage bay. I riveted > nut plates around the perimeter then cut a cover for it. In > maintenance, it has saved me no end of grief when mucking > about behind the panel. > > Greg Miller > RV8 N89GM, 105 flying hours now. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "colin jordan" <cjordan(at)silk.net>
Subject: F802A&B
Date: Feb 07, 2002
Thanks to all , Your replies were most helpful in jogging the memories at Vans ( they are sending me the template) and giving me a few good tips,again thank you to all who took the time to reply. Colin. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "lorin l frank" <llfrank(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RV-8a
Date: Feb 07, 2002
Looks like we will get the FAA sign off in March for our RV8a. What insurance company are people using and is a CFI sign off enough to get insured or did you need time in type? Thanks, Lorin N54LF Sacramento CA ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 07, 2002
From: Brian Halkett <brian_halkett(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RV-8a
Hey Frank, Long time no see...I'm using Skywalk as a broker and my insurance is through AIG. I've never had a problem with them. Never had a claim though! They will probably require some time with a cfi or you could get some time in a similar type (any rv). They made me get 5hrs with an instructor when I bought my rv4. I'll tell you what. My hours will be flown off soon. Give me a call and we get you some time in my 8 during March. If you are not used to the nose wheel on those things get some time in a 6A or a grumman. brian Cameron Park, CA (530) 672-1249 --- lorin l frank wrote: > > > Looks like we will get the FAA sign off in March for > our RV8a. What > insurance company are people using and is a CFI sign > off enough to get > insured or did you need time in type? > > Thanks, Lorin N54LF Sacramento CA > > > > Contributions of > any other form > > latest messages. > other List members. > > http://www.matronics.com/subscription > http://www.matronics.com/photoshare > http://www.matronics.com/search > http://www.matronics.com/archives > http://www.matronics.com/emaillists > > > > > http://greetings.yahoo.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Sally and George" <aeronut58(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV-8a
Date: Feb 07, 2002
Lorin: I got mine through NationAir's VanGuard program (636-532-0023). Rates are good. They required a CFI sign-off in an RV. I recently had a claim and couldn't have been happier. An adjuster was at my plane within 2 hours of my initial phone call and settled promptly and very fairly. George N888GK flying >From: "lorin l frank" <llfrank(at)earthlink.net> >Reply-To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com >To: >Subject: RV8-List: RV-8a >Date: Thu, 7 Feb 2002 11:42:51 -0800 > > >Looks like we will get the FAA sign off in March for our RV8a. What >insurance company are people using and is a CFI sign off enough to get >insured or did you need time in type? > >Thanks, Lorin N54LF Sacramento CA > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "G. Miller" <gvm(at)srv.net>
Subject: RV-8a
Date: Feb 07, 2002
I use Vanguard too. Cost is reasonable. They would not insure in-motion without either a Vans transition sign-off (not CFI), or until I had 25 hours in type. I bought not-in-motion coverage and just flew the first 25 hours with no insurance. Turns out the RV was quite easy to fly, but I did get about 10 hours tailwheel in a Champ just before the first RV flight. Greg Miller RV8 N89GM -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of lorin l frank Subject: RV8-List: RV-8a Looks like we will get the FAA sign off in March for our RV8a. What insurance company are people using and is a CFI sign off enough to get insured or did you need time in type? Thanks, Lorin N54LF Sacramento CA ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "jtgarner" <jtgarner(at)shentel.net>
Subject: Landing Light Hole
Date: Feb 08, 2002
Here'e another way to cut out the landing light hole. Pix 1: I made a template from a heavy duty rubber mud flap (adjusted for the router collar) and taped it on using an aggressive double stick tape and duct tape. Pix 2: Drilling a starter hole for the router bit. Pix 3: Routing out the hole with a carbide cutting bit. Pix 4: Polishing with a Scoth-brite wheel. Over and out, Tom Garner ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 08, 2002
From: gstiel(at)comcast.net
Subject: O 320 A For Sale
O 320 A For sale. O 320 A 1500 TT 220 SMOH including acc. Vac pump Light weight starter Alt Ceramenil Cylinders Rebuilt fuel pump Rebuilt carburetor New slick mags and harness Roller rockers Dynafocal mount This is a first class rebuild on a certified engine. Ready to install and fly! All Logs since new All paperwork from rebuild included. Recently removed from RV 4 Originally from Piper Pacer. $10.500+Shipping Located in Northern Va. 703 494 9263 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 09, 2002
rv8-list(at)matronics.com, rv7-list(at)matronics.com, rv9-list(at)matronics.com, homebuilt-list(at)matronics.com, tailwind-list(at)matronics.com, yak-list(at)matronics.com
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: RV-4 Project For Sale...
Listers, I've decided I want an RV-7 and am selling my RV-4 Airframe Project. Below are two URLs with tons of pictures of the project. Please note that *only* the items listed specifically below are being sold. The avionics, engine, prop, etc. shown in the pictures will be kept for my next project. http://www.matronics.com/mattsrv4/ http://www.matronics.com/mattsrv4/MiscPictures/ I would prefer not split this stuff up and will sell it as a package deal only. Wings and tanks are 95% done and are wired for Whelen Strobes and position lights. Fin, Rudder, Horz Stab are complete. Elevators are 50% complete. Fuselage is about 80% complete with canopy completely installed. Fuselage is on the gear, but little work FWF has been done. The cutout in the FW for the prop governor has been started. Workmanship is good throughout the kit. Here is a list of the items included in the sale: Van's RV-4 Kit (Emp/Wing/Fuse/Finish) Vetterman Exhaust (Crossover) Engine Baffle Kit Filtered Air Box 2 Lever Quadrants F&R Seat Belts Molded Stick Grips Electric Elevator Trim Kit Electric Aileron Trim Kit Electric Flap Kit Fuel Tank Flop Tubes L&R Fuel Selector Valve Rear Seat Rudder Pedals Full Swivel Tailwheel Assy Heat Selector Bob Olds Landing Lights L&R Tires & Tubes Tailwheel Fairing Fiberglass Gear Fairings Temperfoam Front and Rear Seats w/ Upholstery New Light Weight Prepreg Cowling for CS O360 This list of items represents an investment of over $17,000. I will sell the whole thing for $11,000 firm. I can accept M/C or Visa for an additional 4% of the sale amount. I will crate the entire kit as listed above for shipment anywhere in the continental US for an additional $600. Freight charges will be COD via the carrier of your choice. For further information, please contact me via email at dralle(at)matronics.com Matt Dralle Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551 925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 10, 2002
From: TwoAviators <TwoAviators(at)lexcominc.net>
Subject: Dang it, leaky leaky...
To all, After sweating it out for months, I finally put fuel in the tanks. The left is very slowly weeping through 3 aft botton seam rivets. Is there anything short of sloshing the tanks? Silly, but would roughing the small area, and prosealing work? What slosh is recommended? Dan N417SN, was running engine/taxi testing. 81243 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "ray sheffield" <1052a(at)prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Dang it, leaky leaky...
Date: Feb 10, 2002
Dan, Try mixing some proseal and thinner and working it under the seam. ray rv6a ----- Original Message ----- From: "TwoAviators" <TwoAviators(at)lexcominc.net> Subject: RV8-List: Dang it, leaky leaky... > > To all, > > After sweating it out for months, I finally put fuel in the tanks. The left > is very slowly weeping through 3 aft botton seam rivets. Is there anything > short of sloshing the tanks? Silly, but would roughing the small area, and > prosealing work? > > What slosh is recommended? > > Dan > N417SN, was running engine/taxi testing. > 81243 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 10, 2002
From: N188rv(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: Dang it, leaky leaky...
Dan, I have one rivet leaking. I am going to drill it out and shove some proseal in and then pop one of the sealed rivets in. Stan N188sm 50 hours ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 10, 2002
Subject: Re: Dang it, leaky leaky...
From: John B Seal <j.seal(at)juno.com>
I had a small leak in a rivet on my RV-6 that I cured as follows: Drain tank. Remove the tank and lay it flat, upside down with gas cap tightly closed. Cap off the vent line. Hook up a piece of tubing to the gas pick up bulkhead fitting in the access cover.. Create a low pressure vacuum in the tank by sucking on the tubing and closing the end off. (Good check on your lung capacity!). Apply a small amount of "Locktite" thread locking liquid to the leak and let it get sucked in and allowed to set up and seal off the hole. If you let the stuff pool around the rivet head, you may be able to tell if it is being pulled into the opening, at any rate, it should be drawn into the hole enough to seal it off providing it's not too big.. I recall that the product comes in a little dark red tube and can be purchased at auto parts stores. Good luck, Boyd Seal ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: RE: RV9-List: RV-9 --- RV-8 (or RV-9 tail kit for sale)
Date: Feb 11, 2002
From: "Kendall R. Simmons" <ken(at)truckstop.com>
UGF1bCBtYWRlIGEgZ29vZCBwb2ludC4gIEkgd2Fzbid0IHJlYWwgY2xlYXIgaW4gbXkgb3JpZ2lu YWwgcG9zdC4gIEkNCndvdWxkIGFsc28gYmUgd2lsbGluZyB0byBzZWxsIHRoZSBSVi05QSB0YWls IGtpdCBvdXRyaWdodC4gIEkganVzdA0KZmlndXJlZCB0aGUgdHJhZGUgd291bGQgYmUgYSBnb29k IHdheSB0byBwcmV2ZW50IGVpdGhlciBwYXJ0eSBmcm9tDQpsb3NpbmcgbW9uZXkuICBBbnl3YXks IEkndmUgYmFyZWx5IHN0YXJ0ZWQgdGhlIHRhaWwga2l0LiAgSSd2ZSBtYXRjaA0KZHJpbGxlZCB0 aGUgc3BhcnMsIHJpYnMgYW5kIHJpZ2h0IHNraW4gZm9yIHRoZSBIUy4gIE5vIHByaW1pbmcgb3IN CnJpdmV0aW5nIGhhcyBiZWVuIGRvbmUgeWV0Lg0KIA0KS2VuDQoNCglkb2VzIGFueW9uZSB3YW50 IHRvIHRyYWRlIGFuIFJWLTgNCgl0YWlsIGtpdCBmb3IgbXkgUlYtOUEgdGFpbGtpdD8gIEkgd291 bGQgYWxzbyBjb25zaWRlciB0cmFkaW5nIG15DQpSVi05QQ0KCXRhaWwga2l0IGFuZCBjYXNoIGZv ciBhIG1vcmUgY29tcGxldGUgUlYtOCBwcm9qZWN0Lg0KCQ0KCUtlbg0KCShSVi05QSwgd2lzaGlu ZyBpdCB3YXMgYSBSVi04KQ0KCQ0KCWRvIG5vdCBhcmNoaXZlDQoJDQoNCg== ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "BUTLER, FRANCIS" <FRANCIS_BUTLER@butler-machinery.com>
Subject: Any RV8 owners/builders in the Phoenix area??
Date: Feb 13, 2002
Arizona RV8 owners: Two North Dakota RV8 builders flying to into Chandler AZ Friday February 15 for a few days. We are both about to start the firewall forward (IO360 200 hp/inverted oil) and instrument panels on our projects. We are looking to see if any RV8 owners in the Phoenix area would be willing to show us their aircraft uncowled. Willing to buy beer, lunch or dinner. Thank you, Francis Butler Butler Machinery Co. (701) 298-1758 direct (701) 476-3208 fax francis_butler@butler-machinery.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 17, 2002
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Belated List of Contributors #2...
Dear Listers, I'd like to apologize for the delay in posting the 2001 List of Contributors Number 2, as well as getting behind in the List Photo Shares. Here's my sad story... Over the Christmas holidays, I was working out in the shop on a rotating drum sander. I was sanding out the woofer hole in a speaker enclosure and, long story short, the part got away from me and started spinning like a Hula hoop on the drum. Rather than just turning the machine off like I should have done, I tried to grab the part and in the process badly broke the ring fingers on *both* my right and left hands!! I had to go in for surgery on the left hand because of the joint damage and was stuck in a thing called an "external fixator" for almost 4 weeks. The right hand has healed up well, but the left one is very stiff and I'm currently only getting about 70 degrees of bend. The doctor says that I will get 80-90% of the moment back with a great deal of therapy and I'm going to hold them to that... The moral of the story is that even a sander can be a dangerous tool. I had been working with a table saw, drill press, scroll saw, and high power routers all day long and afforded them all the respect they deserved. But with the sander, I never even thought about how things could go bad. It just didn't seem like a dangerous tool. Be careful out there in the shop. In a moment you can hurt yourself; hurt yourself in such a way that you will have to live with the damage the rest of your life. Nothing is worth that. I'm finally back working on the computer and getting back to email and other stuff. Later today I will be processing the mound of Photo Shares that have backed up while I was out. I also just finished up the 2001 List Contributions and have included the List Number 2 below. I want to thank everyone that has so generously contributed to the List this past year! It is your Contributions that make these Lists possible. I understand that the Van's Videos from the Builder's Bookstore should be shipping very soon if not already, and the discount coupons from Brown Tools should already have arrived. Thanks again to Andy Gold and Michael Brown for their generous support of the Lists this year with these giveaways! Oh, and now that my fingers are working pretty well again, I've decided to go ahead and finish my RV-4!! I had a LOT of guilt over wanting to sell it... :-) Happy Building and Flying! Matt Dralle Email List Administrator Alexander, Don Alexander, George Andrews, Jim Anonymous Blake, James Bowman, John Buryl, Hill Butler, Sherman Cantrell, Jimmy DeRuiter, Marcel Deffner, David Graumlich, Tom Griffin, Randy Harbour, Keith Hunt, Robin Jannon, Terence Johnson, Jackie Kahn, Steve Labhart, Norm Laird, David Larson, Joe Licking, Larry Maynard, Brad Navratil, Richard Noonan, Thomas Petersen, Paul Reed, Gary Rogers, Ken Salter, Phillip Schmit, John Schultz, David Sheffield, Ray Smith, Edmond Staley, Dick Utterback, Tom Uvanni, Bruce Williams, Henry Wilson, Robert Woodward, Don Worthington, Victor Zirges, Malcom ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 17, 2002
Subject: [ Bob Haan ] : New Email List Photo Share Available!
From: Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com>
A new Email List Photo Share is available: Poster: Bob Haan Subject: New WigWag II http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/bhaan@easystreet.com.02.17.2002/index.html -------------------------------------------- o EMAIL LIST PHOTO SHARE Share your files and photos with other List members simply by emailing the files to: pictures(at)matronics.com Please view the typical Share above and include the Description Text Fields as shown along with your submission of files and photos. o Main Photo Share Index: http://www.matronics.com/photoshare -------------------------------------------- ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 17, 2002
Subject: [ John Reuterskiold ] : New Email List Photo Share Available!
From: Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com>
A new Email List Photo Share is available: Poster: John Reuterskiold Subject: RV7 Bag-Parts Database http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/mtnflyr@attglobal.net.02.17.2002/index.html -------------------------------------------- o EMAIL LIST PHOTO SHARE Share your files and photos with other List members simply by emailing the files to: pictures(at)matronics.com Please view the typical Share above and include the Description Text Fields as shown along with your submission of files and photos. o Main Photo Share Index: http://www.matronics.com/photoshare -------------------------------------------- ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 17, 2002
Subject: [ JT Garner ] : New Email List Photo Share Available!
From: Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com>
A new Email List Photo Share is available: Poster: JT Garner Subject: Landing Light Hole http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/jtgarner@shentel.net.02.17.2002/index.html -------------------------------------------- o EMAIL LIST PHOTO SHARE Share your files and photos with other List members simply by emailing the files to: pictures(at)matronics.com Please view the typical Share above and include the Description Text Fields as shown along with your submission of files and photos. o Main Photo Share Index: http://www.matronics.com/photoshare -------------------------------------------- ________________________________________________________________________________
From: PSILeD(at)aol.com
Date: Feb 18, 2002
Subject: (no subject)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Shane Summerhays" <ssummerhays(at)attbi.com>
Subject: painting
Date: Feb 18, 2002
Could anyone offer any advise to us about painting our rv8. We have just begun construction of the wings ,and are still a ways off of the painting process. My Father and building partner were wondering, should we paint the airplane in components or should we paint it completed? Any advise , suggestions, or comments would be appreciated. Shane Summerhays Boyd Seal N33xb Flying rv6 Rv8 under construction ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "G. Miller" <gvm(at)srv.net>
Subject: painting
Date: Feb 18, 2002
I painted mine by the component method, something like 50 individual parts. Reasons were a small paint area and a novice painter. A friend did his whole, just fairings and access panels off. I recommend the latter if you can. Faster, and you make sure the whole plane's the same color. But painter skill is more critical--no time to learn. Greg Miller RV8 N89GM -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Shane Summerhays Subject: RV8-List: painting Could anyone offer any advise to us about painting our rv8. We have just begun construction of the wings ,and are still a ways off of the painting process. My Father and building partner were wondering, should we paint the airplane in components or should we paint it completed? Any advise , suggestions, or comments would be appreciated. Shane Summerhays Boyd Seal N33xb Flying rv6 Rv8 under construction ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 18, 2002
From: old ogre <jollyd(at)ipns.com>
Subject: Re: painting
I painted mine after constructed, as still dinged it up here and there, and had to re-paint here and there...tip...you might want to re-think your paint sceme to "make room" for some goofs...BTW mine is for sale RV8A....so you might spread the word....go for it!...jolly in aurora, or. Shane Summerhays wrote: > > Could anyone offer any advise to us about painting our rv8. We have > just begun construction of the wings ,and are still a ways off of the > painting process. My Father and building partner were wondering, should > we paint the airplane in components or should we paint it completed? > Any advise , suggestions, or comments would be appreciated. > > Shane Summerhays > Boyd Seal > N33xb Flying rv6 > Rv8 under construction > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Sam Jacobsen" <samjake1(at)compuserve.com>
Subject: MT Propellers
Date: Feb 20, 2002
We are considering using an MT 3 blade on our O-360 powered RV-8 (still under construction). Van's sold 5 of these props last year. Is there anybody that actually has this combination flying? If so, what are your comments about performance, noise, and vibration? Sam Jacobsen RV-8 QB ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jim Adams" <jimmiea(at)essex1.com>
Subject: Ordered Kit
Date: Feb 23, 2002
Well, I finally took the plunge. I ordered my 8A tail kit on Friday, Feb. 22. Vans tells me I'll have it next week. The fun begins! ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 23, 2002
From: mark andrews <redbeardmark(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Ordered Kit
Hi Jim! I just finished the tail kit on my 8A. Check out the builders' tips at the Van's WorldWideWing site/links. And, definitely pick up copies of the Orndorff Videos. You're gonna love building! "Got tools?" Mark Andrews --- Jim Adams wrote: > > > Well, I finally took the plunge. I ordered my 8A > tail kit on Friday, > Feb. 22. Vans tells me I'll have it next week. The > fun begins! > > > > Contributions of > any other form > > latest messages. > other List members. > > http://www.matronics.com/subscription > http://www.matronics.com/photoshare > http://www.matronics.com/search > http://www.matronics.com/archives > http://www.matronics.com/emaillists > > > > > http://sports.yahoo.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ed Perry" <eperry(at)san.rr.com>
Subject: Eyeball vents
Date: Feb 24, 2002
Hey everyone, I don't know if anybody is still looking for these but they are on eBay and go soon. I can't get the picture to load so I don't know what they look like. http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item1707012080 Good Luck, Ed Perry eperry(at)san.rr.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: W4PPN(at)aol.com
Date: Feb 24, 2002
Subject: Re: Eyeball vents
In a message dated 02/24/2002 8:09:04 PM Eastern Standard Time, eperry(at)san.rr.com writes: > http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item1707012080 This item is no longer in E-Bay's data base. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 25, 2002
From: Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca>
Subject: RV ride in SoCal?
Pete Haggins, a good friend of mine, will be in LA on a course for a couple of weeks in March. He is intrigued by my RV-8 project, and is interested in learning more about RVs. He may be a candidate for the RV-10, as he likes travelling with his family. He has never seen a completed RV. Is there anyone in the SoCal area who would be interested in taking Pete for a ride? He is a good pilot, but doesn't have much light aircraft experience. Pete will be staying near the USC campus next to LAX. He will have one weekend to kill in the middle of the course - March 9 & 10. Thanks, -- Kevin Horton RV-8 (installing engine & electrics) Ottawa, Canada http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Shane Summerhays" <ssummerhays(at)attbi.com>
Subject:
Date: Feb 26, 2002
Dear Friends, my Father and building partner have been working on the wing skeleton and are currently fitting the main ob and ib skins. We keep on wondering where we should run the conduit line.. The placement of the pitot is a gimmie. If we open the tooling holes to 3/4 or 7/8 with a die the hole will intersect the leading edge flange and I think it will interfere with the aileron bellcrank. My thought was to open up completely new holes along the top side of the rib aft the first lightning hole. Any thoughts, comments or suggestions would be great Shane Summerhays Flying rv6 RV8 under const ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 26, 2002
From: BHESS36(at)aol.com
Subject: GASOLATOR BRACKET
I AM LOOKING FOR INFORMATION ON A WAY TO ATTACH A BRACKET TO THE LOWER LEFT SIDE OF ENGINE MOUNT TO HOLD THE GASOLATOR. I HAVE SEEN SEVERAL PICTURES OF GASOLATOR LOCATED IN THIS POSITION BUT CAN NOT TELL HOW THEY WERE ATTACHED. BILL RV-8QB, N128RB Bhess36(at)aol.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "G. Miller" <gvm(at)cableone.net>
Subject:
Date: Feb 26, 2002
In my 8, I drilled new holes in the wing ribs just aft of the main spar (about 3/4 inch) and just above the bottom skin (about 3/4 inch). Did not use conduit, just popped in plastic snap bushings and ran all the wing wires through those. Works fine, does not interfere with push tubes nor bellcrank. You might pull enough wire to put a service loop at one of the access holes. Greg Miller -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Shane Summerhays Subject: RV8-List: Dear Friends, my Father and building partner have been working on the wing skeleton and are currently fitting the main ob and ib skins. We keep on wondering where we should run the conduit line.. The placement of the pitot is a gimmie. If we open the tooling holes to 3/4 or 7/8 with a die the hole will intersect the leading edge flange and I think it will interfere with the aileron bellcrank. My thought was to open up completely new holes along the top side of the rib aft the first lightning hole. Any thoughts, comments or suggestions would be great Shane Summerhays Flying rv6 RV8 under const ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "G. Miller" <gvm(at)cableone.net>
Subject: GASOLATOR BRACKET
Date: Feb 26, 2002
I drilled the firewall and bolted a vans gascolator right to it. A friend did it a better way, he used about 3/4 inch standoffs (alum tube with bolts running through them) so the GC mounts away from the FW, and thus its drain clears the lower engine mount tube. Greg Miller -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of BHESS36(at)aol.com Subject: RV8-List: GASOLATOR BRACKET I AM LOOKING FOR INFORMATION ON A WAY TO ATTACH A BRACKET TO THE LOWER LEFT SIDE OF ENGINE MOUNT TO HOLD THE GASOLATOR. I HAVE SEEN SEVERAL PICTURES OF GASOLATOR LOCATED IN THIS POSITION BUT CAN NOT TELL HOW THEY WERE ATTACHED. BILL RV-8QB, N128RB Bhess36(at)aol.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 02, 2002
Subject: Re: Mag compass in panel?
From: John B Seal <j.seal(at)juno.com>
I have an American made vertical card compass in the top center of my instrument panel. It works fine. When I turn on the landing lights it get a 15 degree deviation error. I grounded the landing lights in the wing tips which may set up a magnetic field in the aircraft. A friend has the same vertical card in a Rocket. Works fine. I went through 2 Chinese vertical cards which immediately failed before I got the US made. Boyd Seal RV-6 Building RV-8 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Shane Summerhays" <ssummerhays(at)attbi.com>
Subject: tapering the wingskins
Date: Mar 03, 2002
Dear Friends Does anyone have any suggestions or tecniques for tapering the edge of the wingskins? My first guess is that all van wants you to do is just knock off the edge lightly, possibly with a sanding block etc.. Any comments would be appreciated Thank you Shane Summerhays R-V8 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 03, 2002
From: old ogre <jollyd(at)ipns.com>
Subject: Re: tapering the wingskins
If you have the "pre-punched holes kit"..always, always, always smooth the edges carefully...if you look at the edges carefully, you will see that even the edges done on a shear will have minute stress risers in them..the pro=punched are actually verrrrry jagged..that's the way the machiene does them..look at them unde a mag lenz....wow!..i always use a file, and then smooth with sandpaper..then run my finger over the edge..if no blood appears, it good...remember to was all blood off the metal, because IT corrodes....happy building..by the way, my RV8s is for sale 98-99% complete..if any one is interisted...jolly in aurora Shane Summerhays wrote: > > Dear Friends > > Does anyone have any suggestions or tecniques for tapering the edge of > the wingskins? My first guess is that all van wants you to do is just > knock off the edge lightly, possibly with a sanding block etc.. > > Any comments would be appreciated > Thank you Shane Summerhays > > R-V8 > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jack Textor" <jack(at)IaJobs.com>
Subject: tapering the wingskins
Date: Mar 04, 2002
Shane, I feathered the overlap edge were the skins met just behind the tank, about a 1 1/2 inches from the front edge. I feathered the bottom edges of both skins, using a disk sander at a very slow speed then buffed it with schotchbrite wheel. By the way I did it on the top skins only Jack Textor RV8, wings ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Peter Wild" <Petewild(at)btinternet.com>
Subject: Tapering wing skins
Date: Mar 05, 2002
This is my first go at posting, bear with me... Shane - I just finshed my top skins and they worked out great. I laid the skin on an 'anti-slip' rubber mesh and used a vixen file to remove material down to just over half thickness at the edge. The filed area formed a tiangle about 3 inches in each direction from the corner. I then polished it to a satin finish with scotchbrite and checked the thickness with a micrometer. Now they are riveted up it looks great. Regards Pete Wild - RV 8 - Sussex - England ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Tracy Dybowski" <td14228(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: Tapering wing skins
Date: Mar 05, 2002
A question for the engineer types out there. Could tapering or feathering and edge in this manner increase the possibility of a crack starting? TD RV8 all control surfaces done starting the wings >From: "Peter Wild" <Petewild(at)btinternet.com> >Reply-To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com >To: >Subject: RV8-List: Tapering wing skins >Date: Tue, 5 Mar 2002 01:54:15 -0000 > > >This is my first go at posting, bear with me... >Shane - >I just finshed my top skins and they worked out great. >I laid the skin on an 'anti-slip' rubber mesh and used a vixen file to >remove material down to just over half thickness at the edge. The filed >area formed a tiangle about 3 inches in each direction from the corner. >I then polished it to a satin finish with scotchbrite and checked the >thickness with a micrometer. Now they are riveted up it looks great. >Regards >Pete Wild - RV 8 - Sussex - England > > Join the worlds largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. http://www.hotmail.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Shane Summerhays" <ssummerhays(at)attbi.com>
Subject: skin tapering
Date: Mar 05, 2002
Thanks for the suggestions guys , I will have it done in a snap . Shane Summerhays ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 06, 2002
From: Jim Bean <jim-bean(at)att.net>
Subject: [Fwd: Magneto Swap]
Date: Wed, 06 Mar 2002 22:32:01 -0500 From: Jim Bean <jim-bean(at)att.net> Subject: Magneto Swap I am trying to figure out how to swap out the dual magneto on my engine. It's an IO360A1B6D that came out of a Cessna 177. The objective is to replace the dual magneto with a single unit to pair up with an electronic ignition. I contacted Bendix (TCM) and the tech rep told me the magneto to use and to get the driven gear from an IO360A1B engine. These are available, pricey, but the unknown seems to be placing the gear at the right depth. The tech rep thought that spacers would be required to position the gear. Anyway has anyone tried this and what was the result? TIA Jim Bean RV-8 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Gosh2Fly(at)aol.com
Date: Mar 07, 2002
Subject: Re: [Fwd: Magneto Swap]
________________________________________________________________________________
From: Gosh2Fly(at)aol.com
Date: Mar 07, 2002
Subject: Re: [Fwd: Magneto Swap]
jIM, I'am doing the same thing with a 0320-H2AD dual mag (D4RN-2021). It 's a harder problem than it appears to be. It will be a month or so to I can try this mag. It is a 1200 series mag (no part number ) right hand rotating mag with a shaft matched to the dual mag type. This was all done by a mag shop ( only mag. shop I could find that would help) Magneto E.R. (877)599-4859,Waylen Bruce. My advice is go with a dual electronic ignition with a battery backup. It's been done and Jeff Rose (Electroair) can do it. Ken ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 08, 2002
From: old ogre <jollyd(at)ipns.com>
Subject: for sale RV8A
RV8A for sale...98-99% finished...just little things left to do...0320, 160hp..0smoh..new C/S prop..new upholstry...radio transpndr..$61,500.00 located oregon ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Craig Chipley" <craigchipley(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-8A flight visibilty
Date: Mar 08, 2002
List, I am contemplating the RV-8A. Of those that are flying, how is the visiblity over the nose? Or total visibilty for that matter. Seems like a long nose compared to Van's other designs. I like the airplane. Just a few things left to figure out before the BIG PURCHASE!!. Thanks for the help, Craig ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jerry Carter" <jcarter8(at)midsouth.rr.com>
Subject: Re: RV-8A flight visibilty
Date: Mar 09, 2002
> > > List, I am contemplating the RV-8A. Of those that are flying, how is the > visiblity over the nose? Or total visibilty for that matter. Seems like a > long nose compared to Van's other designs. I like the airplane. Just a few > things left to figure out before the BIG PURCHASE!!. Thanks for the help, > Craig > > Well, a picture is worth...... see http://rv8asite.homestead.com/moreflying.html Jerry Carter RV-8A 99 hrs, 132 landings ________________________________________________________________________________
From: N188rv(at)aol.com
Date: Mar 11, 2002
Subject: Re: RV-8A flight visibilty
Craig I have been flying my RV-8 for 3 months. The visibility is great over the nose. Wheel landing are a snap. Much better visibility than RV-6. Stan ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jack Textor" <jack(at)IaJobs.com>
Subject: off-line for a week
Date: Mar 14, 2002
Listers, Will be out next week, will have withdrawal pains until re-subscribing. Jack RV8, wings Do not archive ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Konrad Werner" <Connywerner(at)wans.net>
Subject: RV-4 Project FOR SALE
Date: Mar 15, 2002
My fellow RVators, RV-4 Tail & Wing Kits FOR SALE Early 1980's Kit, Serial number is in the two digits. A VIRGIN (i.e. nearly untouched). Today's cost from Vans would be over $5400 for the same Kit (-with predrilled parts). This is a great opportunity to get started on a Van's RV-4, while at the same time saving some serious (engine) money over buying new! Please contact me OFF LIST if you are interested, and then make me a reasonable offer for the two Kits! Sincerely, Konrad Werner Albuquerque, NM. Connywerner(at)wans.net ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jim Adams" <jimmiea(at)essex1.com>
Subject: Dwg 3 - Horizontal Stabelizer
Date: Mar 16, 2002
I think I know the answer to my question but I just wanted to have it confirmed by someone out there who has done this before. The question is, in the HS-404 trim detail drawing for the left HS-404, I think the orientation of the HS-404 in the drawing showing the 23/32, "up" demension would really be at the bottom when the left HS-404 is installed. Is this correct? I'm not to keen in blueprint reading yet but I thought I had better ask instead of ruining a part. I would appriciate any help. Jim Adams Polo, IL ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gossett Family" <Gossett(at)primary.net>
Subject: RV 8 Quick Build Kit
Date: Mar 16, 2002
Any interest in trading a flyable RV 3, RV 4, or RV 6 for a complete RV 8 Quick Build kit, minus finishing kit. Includes KLX 155 & KLN 90B. Tail feathers done. Wings about ready to install on fuselage. Hal in STL MO ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: VS-808PP
Date: Mar 17, 2002
From: "Kendall R. Simmons" <ken(at)truckstop.com>
Drawing 6 shows optional lightening holes in the VS spar doubler VS-808PP. Is anyone cutting these out? If so, are you just using one of the fly-type circle cutters or something more stable. Ken RV8 (emennage) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 18, 2002
From: old ogre <jollyd(at)ipns.com>
Subject: for sale RV8A
98-99% completed, 0320, 160hp, new C/S prop, painted. ect. please contact me for pix, priced at $61,500.00. or call..I love to talk about RV's! 503-678-3343 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 18, 2002
From: old ogre <jollyd(at)ipns.com>
Subject: lyc E2D
for sale, lyc E2D, with all accessories..high timer, but good compression, hear it run..removing it for a upgrade..$8,500.00 plus shipping....loctaed aurora, ore. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Vince Himsl" <vhimsl(at)turbonet.com>
Subject: VS-808PP
Date: Mar 20, 2002
I used the 'fly type' sold by Avery. But use it in a drill press. It does a pretty good job as the center drill bit holds the piece on center. I did the lightening holes in the beginning but later started judging the weight saving (or lack thereof) with the work involved on the smaller pieces and opted not to drill the holes in some cases. Regards, Vince Himsl RV8 - Canoe Moscow, ID USA ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ed Perry" <eperry(at)san.rr.com>
"Rv-List(at)Matronics.Com" ,
Subject: Hartzell prop for sale on eBay
Date: Mar 21, 2002
I don't know if this is good for anybody but it sure looks like it's nice. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item1712850348 Ed Perry eperry(at)san.rr.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: RE: RV-List: VS-809PP
Date: Mar 21, 2002
From: "Kendall R. Simmons" <ken(at)truckstop.com>
I did some quick calculations on the VS-808PP and came up with a weight savings of about 3 ounces. It doesn't seem like much, but that far aft it might make a difference especially on a plane with electric elevator trim and rudder nav light(like mine). Ken --> RV-List message posted by: "Joe Larson" I dunno -- most of those lightening holes are behind the CG, and RVs tend to have problems bumping into the aft limits. Dropping even a few ounces off the tail is probably worth a lot more than a few pounds up front. -Joe > --> RV-List message posted by: "Vince Himsl" > I did the lightening holes in the beginning but later started judging > the weight saving (or lack thereof) with the work involved on the > smaller pieces and opted not to drill the holes in some cases. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jim Sears" <sears(at)searnet.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: VS-809PP
Date: Mar 21, 2002
> I did some quick calculations on the VS-808PP and came up with a weight > savings of about 3 ounces. It doesn't seem like much, but that far aft > it might make a difference especially on a plane with electric elevator > trim and rudder nav light(like mine). It still won't make that much difference. I have manual trim, which is really heavy due to the cable going to the back. I also have the tail light and a strobe back there. I have my ELT and strobe power pack behind the baggage compartment bulkhead. I didn't cut out any holes, like that. If you have a metal prop, especially constant speed, you're going to offset quite a bit of weight at the rear. The battery's being moved forward into the engine compartment will not hurt things, either. I even have a light weight starter in mine. The CG is in good shape. Of course, I do have the nose gear; but, I also have the O320 150hp engine that may take off some of that. Personally, I'd accept the extra strength and not do the holes. Even with the tandem seating, I'm betting you have plenty of CG range. Jim Sears in KY RV-6A N198JS EAA Tech Counselor ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "RW" <chiefs(at)teleport.com>
Subject: Re: Hartzell prop for sale on eBay
Date: Mar 21, 2002
Anybody know the power settings for 65% and 75% for an IO-360 with CS prop? Dick White ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ed Perry" <eperry(at)san.rr.com> "Rv-List(at)Matronics.Com" ; Subject: RV8-List: Hartzell prop for sale on eBay > > I don't know if this is good for anybody but it sure looks like it's > nice. > > http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item1712850348 > Ed Perry > eperry(at)san.rr.com > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Grking3(at)aol.com
Date: Mar 21, 2002
Subject: Re: Hartzell prop for sale on eBay
Based on an Arrow 4 POH for the installed Lycoming IO-360-C1C6 at 4000' pressure alt, standard temp, and best power leaning some combinations are: 75%: 2400(at)24.4" 65%: 2400@22" or 2100(at)24.8" 55%: 2400(at)19.5" or 2100(at)21.9" Of course these are just a few of the examples provided by the POH. The engine manual probably contains many more examples of rpm and mp combinations. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 22, 2002
From: "Builder's Bookstore" <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com>
Subject: Free Thunderbird, Blue Angels videos
Free Thunderbird, Blue Angels videos I've got 5 copies of a Thunderbirds / Blue Angles video which we'll give away for Free to the first 5 people who ask for it along with any other regular order from Builder's Bookstore. It's a 50 minute video, 1/2 on the Thunderbirds, and 1/2 on the Blue Angels. The Thunderbird segment is excellent. The Blue Angels section is not as good. To get one, just write FREE THUNDERBIRDS VIDEO in the special instructions box on the Builder's Bookstore on-line order form, or say so if you prefer to order something by phone. Also, in case you are caller #6 or later, note if your regular order depends on whether there is a free video left to include in your package. Andy Builder's Bookstore http://buildersbooks.com 800 780-4115 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ed Perry" <eperry(at)san.rr.com>
Subject: eBay Pitot Static Pitot Tube
Date: Mar 23, 2002
I think somebody was looking for one of these last week. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item1713407121 Ed Perry eperry(at)san.rr.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Bobpaulo(at)aol.com
Date: Mar 23, 2002
Subject: Re: eBay Pitot Static Pitot Tube
In a message dated 3/23/2002 8:16:19 PM Central Standard Time, eperry(at)san.rr.com writes: > http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Bobpaulo(at)aol.com
Date: Mar 23, 2002
Subject: Re: eBay Pitot Static Pitot Tube
In a message dated 3/23/2002 8:16:19 PM Central Standard Time, eperry(at)san.rr.com writes: > http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll Ed, I cannot see, I think you must have error in addy. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ed Perry" <eperry(at)san.rr.com>
Subject: Re: eBay Pitot Static Pitot Tube
Date: Mar 23, 2002
It was an electrically heated pitot static tube. I can't get it to come up either. It ends at 19:15 and it is in the aviation,avionics listings. just search "pitot" it should come up. it is currently <$30. Ed Perry eperry(at)san.rr.com ----- Original Message ----- From: <Bobpaulo(at)aol.com> Subject: Re: RV8-List: eBay Pitot Static Pitot Tube > > In a message dated 3/23/2002 8:16:19 PM Central Standard Time, > eperry(at)san.rr.com writes: > > > > http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll > > Ed, I cannot see, I think you must have error in addy. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ed Perry" <eperry(at)san.rr.com>
Subject: E6-b for the iPAQ
Date: Mar 23, 2002
Anybody out there find a good E6-b for the iPAQ? I am not interested in the GPS option. I have looked and can't find anything that has flightplanning info. Ed Perry eperry(at)san.rr.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Pneumatic squeezer help
Date: Mar 24, 2002
From: "Kendall R. Simmons" <ken(at)truckstop.com>
A couple of questions. 1) Will the adjustable set holder from Avery fit any of the CP214 clones or are there exceptions? 2) Are the set holders/rams different sizes in the CP214/clones (i.e. will the standard yokes not fit some of them? Thanks. Ken RV-8 (empennage) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: MeangreenRV4(at)aol.com
Date: Mar 25, 2002
Subject: Bakersfield EAA 71 BBQ
PUT THIS ON YOUR CALENDAR Bakersfield EAA 71 annual BBQ Fly-In @ (L45) Bakersfield Muni will be on June 1st, 2002 All food will be catered by the Getaway Cafe & the Outback Restaurant In addition to all of the awesome experimental aircraft on display, there will be custom hot rods and motorcycles on display Live music all day long 8:00 am - 6:00 pm Info: call John Harmon (611) 836-1028 or e-mail hr2pilot(at)aol.com or Tim Barnes (661) 393-4100 or e-mail EAABKFD71(at)aol.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: llynn(at)jesup.net (Lonnie Lynn)
Subject: Re: RV8-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 05/21/01
Date: Mar 26, 2002
'RV8-List Digest Server' wrote:=0A=0A- * - RV8-List Digest Archive - --- - Total Messages Posted Mon 05/21/01: 1 - - - _______ - From: "Bill Christie" <billc(at)dancris.com> ...'=0A=0A=0A> Take a look to the attachment. =0A=0A=0A ________________________________________________________________________________
From: llynn(at)jesup.net (Lonnie Lynn)
Subject: Re: RV8-List Digest: 2 Msgs - 07/16/01
Date: Mar 26, 2002
'RV8-List Digest Server' wrote:=0A=0A- * - RV8-List Digest Archive - --- - Total Messages Posted Mon 07/16/01: 2 - - - _______ - From: John Jessen <jjessen(at)CMBINFO.com> - ...'=0A=0A=0A> Take a look to the attachment. =0A=0A=0A ________________________________________________________________________________
From: llynn(at)jesup.net (Lonnie Lynn)
Subject: Re: RV8-List Digest: 4 Msgs - 07/17/01
Date: Mar 26, 2002
'RV8-List Digest Server' wrote:=0A=0A- * - RV8-List Digest Archive - --- - Total Messages Posted Tue 07/17/01: 4 - - - _______ - From: old ogre <jollyd(at)teleport.com> - S ...'=0A=0A=0A> Take a look to the attachment. =0A=0A=0A ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Robert J. Dean" <deanrobertj(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Antenna placement for RV-8
Date: Mar 29, 2002
I want to have VOR/ILS capability on my RV-8. I am trying to determine the best type of antenna to use and the best place to locate it. If anybody has looked into this issue, please let me know what your thoughts are. Thank you, Bob Dean Deanrobertj(at)hotmail.com Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 29, 2002
From: jollyd <jollyd(at)ipns.com>
Subject: Re: Antenna placement for RV-8
I put mine in my wing tips...seems to work fine there..at least the field strength meter says so...jolly, the ogre... "Robert J. Dean" wrote: > > I want to have VOR/ILS capability on my RV-8. > > I am trying to determine the best type of antenna to use and the best place > to locate it. > > If anybody has looked into this issue, please let me know what your thoughts > are. > > Thank you, > > Bob Dean > Deanrobertj(at)hotmail.com > > Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Kuehn, George" <George.Kuehn(at)ost.dot.gov>
Subject: Antenna placement for RV-8
Date: Mar 29, 2002
Dean, I've been following the list for awhile and have noted that a lot of people are going to the wing tip mount. You can find a lot of discussion of the subject subject in the archives. The expert seems to be Bob Archer who developed antennas for the aerospase industry. See the writeup on Sam Buchanan's "RV Journal" site. http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal/sportcraft.htm I've also seen a couple writes elsewhere, but can't remember where. (Suffering from CRS) Some builders have used it and reported good result and it's a clean installation. I'm leaning towards this approach when the time comes. George RV8, Skinning wings -----Original Message----- From: Robert J. Dean [mailto:deanrobertj(at)hotmail.com] Subject: RV8-List: Antenna placement for RV-8 I want to have VOR/ILS capability on my RV-8. I am trying to determine the best type of antenna to use and the best place to locate it. If anybody has looked into this issue, please let me know what your thoughts are. Thank you, Bob Dean Deanrobertj(at)hotmail.com Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Phil N" <pnewlon(at)toosan.com>
Subject: Re: Antenna placement for RV-8
Date: Mar 29, 2002
I would guess that being ~12 feet off the centerline will suffice for _my_ needs. If I can't get back to the centerline from a 400-500 agl breakout (my personal minimuims) then I better hang up my IFR ticket. :-) > Some builders have used it and reported good result and it's a clean > installation. I'm leaning towards this approach when the time comes. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "G. Miller" <gvm(at)cableone.net>
Subject: Antenna placement for RV-8
Date: Mar 29, 2002
I put my VOR/ILS cat whisker on top of the fin as is convential. Works as expected. Only thing I did different from standard wss to connect my FM radio to it as well via a triplexor. Really good FM reception. Greg Miller rv8 n89gm, 115 hrs TT -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Robert J. Dean Subject: RV8-List: Antenna placement for RV-8 I want to have VOR/ILS capability on my RV-8. I am trying to determine the best type of antenna to use and the best place to locate it. If anybody has looked into this issue, please let me know what your thoughts are. Thank you, Bob Dean Deanrobertj(at)hotmail.com Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: N188rv(at)aol.com
Date: Mar 29, 2002
Subject: Re: Antenna placement for RV-8
I put my vor on bottom of fus in back. Com is between gear legs. Works Fine. Stan Mehrhoff N188sm 50 + hours ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Arnold de Brie" <ajdbrie(at)interestate.nl>
Subject: Sun and fun
Date: Mar 30, 2002
Hello I'm a Dutch RV8 builder My plane is finished and I'm in the paperwork stage, hoping to fly end of April Taxiing I am doing all the time already. I'll be at Sun and Fun and we have some instruction from Mike Seager there too. Are there people in the vicinity willing to show me their -8,giving advice, and maybe a ride? Arnold de Brie The Netherlands ________________________________________________________________________________
From: LDean97765(at)aol.com
Date: Mar 30, 2002
Subject: Re: ILS/VOR Antenna
Thank you for all of the responses. Bob Dean ________________________________________________________________________________
From: FSmith9890(at)aol.com
Date: Mar 31, 2002
Subject: RV-8 List: Antenna placement for RV-8
I can confirm that the wingtip antennas work fine for both the VOR-LOC & GS reception. Have had in current RV-4 for nine years a comm whip in each wingtip, one for the NAV input, the other for the GS. Used the comm whips because I had them, they were easy to mount, and had a nice connection for the coax. In a previous plane one whip was used for both the VOR & GS with a diplexer. Since these are receiving antennas only they don't have to be perfectly matched. An approximate 1/4 wavelength, about 24 inches can be made from heavy wire, copper tape, aluminum tubing, etc. The comm antennas are a little short for the NAV frequencies, but it doesn't seem to matter. Van has a kit with the tape, connectors, and coax for $35. The "Cat whiskers" dipole on the tail is not necessary. It may have been years ago when our radios were not as sensitive. Incidentally the wingtips also have strobes, nav lights, and landing lights. Doesn't seem to affect the LOC- GS reception. FWIW Frank ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Ramsey<n44rx(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: My new EarthLink email address
Date: Apr 05, 2002
Bcc: Hi. I wanted to let you know that I've switched to EarthLink for my Internet access, and I now have a new email address. So please send all email to my new EarthLink email address: n44rx(at)earthlink.net I don't want to miss any of your messages, so please take a moment to write down my new address and add it to your email address book. Thanks! Wilfred P.S. My old email address was (n44rx(at)netscape.net) ******************************** EarthLink - The #1 provider of the Real Internet http://www.earthlink.net/ ******************************** ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dick Jordan" <mkejrj(at)erols.com>
Subject: Franklin Engine Option
Date: Apr 06, 2002
I'm in " sticker shock " after checking the cost of a new Lyc. IO 360. In reviewing possible alternatives I note that a Franklin dealer in Ft. Collins is offering a new , certified, Franklin engine & installation kit for $ 24,900.The kit includes , in addition to the engine , the bed type mount, exhaust system, Sky tec starter,fuel pump ,50 amp alternator, carb heat box, oil cooler , engine mount bushings, throttle etc, brackets, & baffle plans. The Franklin is slightly smaller in terms of displacement @ 350 Cu. In. Vs 360 in the Lyc but it develops 220 HP @ 2800 RPM vs. 200 HP in the Lyc @ 2700.The Franklin should be smoother running with 6 Cyls. Vs. the Lyc @ 4. Weights of the two engines are comparable with the Lyc. @ 293 lbs. dry Vs. 297 for the Franklin ; Torque too is comparable @ 400 for the Lyc Vs. 384 for the Franklin. The only downer I see with the Franklin is that it's not fuel injected & a 1500 Hr. TBO. The Elison injector reportable can be substituted for the Marvel- Schebler & the TBO reported may have occurred while powering Helos where it's run @ 3200 RPM. I understand that one of Van's RV 8's is Franklin powered ; I'm also told that the RV 8 cowl does not have to be extensively modified to fit the Franklin. I would sure appreciate any thoughts or comments from builder's who have gone before me. Best Wishes, Dick Jordan Malvern, Pa. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 06, 2002
From: Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca>
Subject: Re: Franklin Engine Option
> >I'm in " sticker shock " after checking the cost of a new Lyc. IO 360. >In reviewing possible alternatives I note that a Franklin dealer in Ft. >Collins is offering a new , certified, Franklin engine & installation >kit for $ 24,900.The kit includes , in addition to the engine , the bed >type mount, exhaust system, Sky tec starter,fuel pump ,50 amp >alternator, carb heat box, oil cooler , engine mount bushings, throttle >etc, brackets, & baffle plans. > > The Franklin is slightly smaller in terms of displacement @ 350 Cu. In. >Vs 360 in the Lyc but it develops 220 HP @ 2800 RPM vs. 200 HP in the >Lyc @ 2700.The Franklin should be smoother running with 6 Cyls. Vs. the >Lyc @ 4. > > Weights of the two engines are comparable with the Lyc. @ 293 lbs. dry >Vs. 297 for the Franklin ; Torque too is comparable @ 400 for the Lyc >Vs. 384 for the Franklin. > > The only downer I see with the Franklin is that it's not fuel injected >& a 1500 Hr. TBO. The Elison injector reportable can be substituted for >the Marvel- Schebler & the TBO reported may have occurred while powering >Helos where it's run @ 3200 RPM. > > I understand that one of Van's RV 8's is Franklin powered ; I'm also >told that the RV 8 cowl does not have to be extensively modified to fit >the Franklin. > > I would sure appreciate any thoughts or comments from builder's who >have gone before me. > > Best Wishes, > Dick Jordan > Malvern, Pa. > Maybe you should be looking at a rebuilt IO-360. I got an overhauled IO-360 from Bart Lalonde (Aerosport Power) for much less than the price you mention for the Franklin. The Franklin is heavier than the IO-360 too, and the Io-360 is already heavier than I would like. -- Kevin Horton RV-8 (installing engine & electrics) Ottawa, Canada http://members.rogers.com/khorton/rv8.html http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 07, 2002
From: "David L. Grebe" <davegrebe(at)pond.com>
Subject: Aft Battery Connection
I'm installing my RG battery in the aft position (c/s prop,etc) per Van's suggestion BUT I haven't come up with a good way of making a RELIABLE, LOW resistance connection from the Bat(-) terminal to lower longeron F889....big holes for big ring terminals make for edge distance problems and then there's that copper to aluminum joint... What solution does someone have that's been cranking like a big dog??!! David Grebe RV-8 #80354...North Wales, PA Starting Finishing Kit ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 07, 2002
From: jollyd <jollyd(at)ipns.com>
Subject: Re: Aft Battery Connection
believe it or not, I have seen some installations where they run two copper cables back to the batt...one for ground, and one for hot....one goes to starter, the other goes to an engine ground..with a 35 amp ball...they DO crank nicely...jolly in aurora, or. "David L. Grebe" wrote: > > I'm installing my RG battery in the aft position (c/s prop,etc) per Van's > suggestion BUT I haven't come up with a good way of making a RELIABLE, LOW > resistance connection from the Bat(-) terminal to lower longeron F889....big > holes for big ring terminals make for edge distance problems and then > there's that copper to aluminum joint... > > What solution does someone have that's been cranking like a big dog??!! > > David Grebe > RV-8 #80354...North Wales, PA > Starting Finishing Kit > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ed Perry" <eperry(at)san.rr.com>

Subject: Rocky Mountain u-encoder on e-Bay
Date: Apr 08, 2002
Saw this today if anybody wants one..... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item1817949254 Ed Perry eperry(at)san.rr.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Vincent Welch" <welchvincent(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Aft Battery Connection
Date: Apr 08, 2002
Take a look at AC43.13, they show a procedure for making a ground point. I followed their procedure and used a 1/4" AN bolt. The longeron is 3/4", so that leaves 1/4" edge distance. Not flying yet but I have been reading .01 ohms from several locations on the airframe to the ground point. Vince RV-8A Finishing >From: "David L. Grebe" <davegrebe(at)pond.com> >Reply-To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com >To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: RV8-List: Aft Battery Connection >Date: Sun, 07 Apr 2002 17:20:28 -0400 > > >I'm installing my RG battery in the aft position (c/s prop,etc) per Van's >suggestion BUT I haven't come up with a good way of making a RELIABLE, LOW >resistance connection from the Bat(-) terminal to lower longeron >F889....big >holes for big ring terminals make for edge distance problems and then >there's that copper to aluminum joint... > >What solution does someone have that's been cranking like a big dog??!! > > >David Grebe >RV-8 #80354...North Wales, PA >Starting Finishing Kit > > Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "van Bladeren, Ron" <rwv(at)nwnatural.com>
"'rv8list(at)yahoogroups.com'"
Subject: RV-8/8A Jig available
Date: Apr 08, 2002
Anyone near the Portland/Vancouver area that wants a good fuselage jig for free, I'm done with mine. Includes longeron clamps, adjustable legs and overhead centering wire. E-mail or call 503-803-4216. Ron. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 09, 2002
Subject: Re: Aft Battery Connection
From: John B Seal <j.seal(at)juno.com>
I don't like using the airframe as a ground. On my RV-6 I grounded everything, engine, battery, ground bus, etc. to a large fire wall engine mounting bolt. (didn't have to run the ground wire through the fire wall that way). I had some odd electrical problems with my Electronics International instruments until I ran a ground wire to the above grounding point. I had only grounded the ground bus to the stainless steel fire wall (bad idea). I did use a airframe ground for my wing tip landing lights. When I turn these lights on, I get about 10 degrees of compass deviation. Should have grounded them to the ground bus. I suspect that an airframe ground may set up some unwanted magnetic fields. Maybe an electrical engineer would know the answer to that. On my -8 project I plan on full size (#4 I believe it is, off hand) ground wire to the common battery, engine ground on the fire wall. Boyd Seal Flying RV-6 building RV-8 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "G. Miller" <gvm(at)cableone.net>
Subject: Aft Battery Connection
Date: Apr 09, 2002
I dont mean to disagree, simple pass on more info. On my -8, I grounded whatever to anywhere convenient on the airframe, from wing tip lights, wing lights, heated pitot, to the instruments in the panel. I just grounded anything to the nearest airframe surface I could find. The panel is basic IFR, and I must have 20 ground points scattered around behind the panel and on the panel surface itself, in the case its post lights. I did check all grounds and between grounds with a standard radio shack type ohmmeter, and sometimes I had to sand primer off aluminum, but otherwise the ohmmeter didn't show any detectable resistence between ground points on the airframe. The battery is grounded to an engine mount bolt with #2 cable, and the engine is grounded to the engine mount on the opposite side of the plane also with #2. I also made sure I had good electrical connectivity to all control surfaces. Fortunately this chaotic scheme worked ok, I see no impact on the compass, radio transmissions, headset, VOR/GS, GPS, etc. I did have to go back and add a power filter to the car stereo CD player motor power to removed the motor whine, and rewire the electric T/C with shielded wire. Greg Miller N89GM, 125 hrs -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of John B Seal Subject: Re: RV8-List: Aft Battery Connection I don't like using the airframe as a ground. On my RV-6 I grounded everything, engine, battery, ground bus, etc. to a large fire wall engine mounting bolt. (didn't have to run the ground wire through the fire wall that way). I had some odd electrical problems with my Electronics International instruments until I ran a ground wire to the above grounding point. I had only grounded the ground bus to the stainless steel fire wall (bad idea). I did use a airframe ground for my wing tip landing lights. When I turn these lights on, I get about 10 degrees of compass deviation. Should have grounded them to the ground bus. I suspect that an airframe ground may set up some unwanted magnetic fields. Maybe an electrical engineer would know the answer to that. On my -8 project I plan on full size (#4 I believe it is, off hand) ground wire to the common battery, engine ground on the fire wall. Boyd Seal Flying RV-6 building RV-8 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: RV-8 F804 assy
From: "jonweisw(at)rcn.com" <jonweisw(at)rcn.com>
Date: Apr 12, 2002
Has anyone seen any textual description of how to assemble the F-804 ('heart of the airplane')? The wings came with DWG 11 and DWG 18 which diagram the parts and the assembly, but nowhere in the 'wings' (section7) text is there a description of how to mate this critical structure. The fuselage plans state that "F-804 assembly is covered in section 7." I am willing to construct this based on the drawings alone, but that seems unlike Vans given the critical nature of this structure. Jon Weiswasser N898JW Fuselage ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Kuehn, George" <George.Kuehn(at)ost.dot.gov>
Subject: RV-8 F804 assy
Date: Apr 12, 2002
Have checked the fuselage section? -----Original Message----- From: jonweisw(at)rcn.com [mailto:jonweisw(at)rcn.com] Subject: RV8-List: RV-8 F804 assy Has anyone seen any textual description of how to assemble the F-804 ('heart of the airplane')? The wings came with DWG 11 and DWG 18 which diagram the parts and the assembly, but nowhere in the 'wings' (section7) text is there a description of how to mate this critical structure. The fuselage plans state that "F-804 assembly is covered in section 7." I am willing to construct this based on the drawings alone, but that seems unlike Vans given the critical nature of this structure. Jon Weiswasser N898JW Fuselage ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 12, 2002
From: "David L. Grebe" <davegrebe(at)pond.com>
Subject: Re: RV-8 F804 assy
John, Yep, some sequences seem a little puzzling......, pg. 7-11 recommends you wait on building this bulkhead assy until the fuselage begins (followed by a page description (10-22/97 edition), then on pg 8-2 , just after barely starting the fuselage, it refers back to this in an 8 word reference! Anyways, when I hit that point I found the pg 7-11 instructions adequate but admit to spending a lot of quality time analyzing DWG 11 before every operation and doing a LOT of cleco/fitting. One part I JUST found I missed was the 4 nut plates on the bottom of F804A (fwd pc) to clamp the fuel lines!!! this will be tough to reach in and 'handle'. Then towards the end of section 8 you get to mate the wings to this and verify just how good of a job you did making the spacer between the F804E & F804F bars the SAME thickness as your wind spar ends. BTW, extending these spacers well out past the end of the F804Cs will give you something to attach short legs onto once the fuselage comes out of the jig and turned right side up. I heeded everyone's suggestions to keep it as close to the ground as possible (as opposed to standing it on the l.gear right away) and boy does that make reaching inside to work much better. Best of luck, David > >Has anyone seen any textual description of how to assemble the F-804 ('heart of the airplane')? The wings came with DWG 11 and DWG 18 which diagram the parts and the assembly, but nowhere in the 'wings' (section7) text is > > David Grebe RV-8 #80354...North Wales, PA Starting Finishing Kit ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Vince Himsl" <vhimsl(at)turbonet.com>
Subject: Cable hole on Right and Left Hand Consoles
Date: Apr 14, 2002
Hello, I am finishing up the installation of the left and right hand consoles on my RV-8. Problem is that drawings show a large hole on the gearbox side, presumably for the cables that go to each console, but I can't find any reference to it in the plans or drawings. Can anyone who has drilled these two holes tell me where in the plans they are referenced, and if not, what size they used to drill them? Ref: dwg 30 section L-L' and G-G'. Thanks, Vince Himsl Rv8 canoe Moscow, ID USA ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Vince Himsl" <vhimsl(at)turbonet.com>
Subject: Rear Baggage Shelf bracing?
Date: Apr 14, 2002
Hello, Just installed the rear baggage shelf and noticed that the self rattles pretty easily. Has anybody gone ahead and added stiffeners to the (F-835) Rear baggage shelf? Thanks Vince Himsl RV8-canoe Moscow, Id USA ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "van Bladeren, Ron" <rwv(at)nwnatural.com>
Subject: RV-8 F804 assy
Date: Apr 15, 2002
That page was omitted from my assembly manual AND preview plans. Yours was probably too. Call VAN's and have them fax or mail it to you. I advise waiting for the text. You don't want to screw this part up. Also, Be SURE you heed the new hole location measurements for wiring and battery cable pass through holes BEFORE drilling. They are printing in the latest issue of RVator. Ron. -----Original Message----- From: jonweisw(at)rcn.com [mailto:jonweisw(at)rcn.com] Subject: RV8-List: RV-8 F804 assy Has anyone seen any textual description of how to assemble the F-804 ('heart of the airplane')? The wings came with DWG 11 and DWG 18 which diagram the parts and the assembly, but nowhere in the 'wings' (section7) text is there a description of how to mate this critical structure. The fuselage plans state that "F-804 assembly is covered in section 7." I am willing to construct this based on the drawings alone, but that seems unlike Vans given the critical nature of this structure. Jon Weiswasser N898JW Fuselage ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "G. Miller" <gvm(at)cableone.net>
Subject: Cable hole on Right and Left Hand Consoles
Date: Apr 15, 2002
I drilled them. Don't think they are in the plans. I just located them based on the consoles, and I think I drilled 1" holes. Bigger is better since it becomes an ease of access issue. Greg -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Vince Himsl Subject: RV8-List: Cable hole on Right and Left Hand Consoles Hello, I am finishing up the installation of the left and right hand consoles on my RV-8. Problem is that drawings show a large hole on the gearbox side, presumably for the cables that go to each console, but I can't find any reference to it in the plans or drawings. Can anyone who has drilled these two holes tell me where in the plans they are referenced, and if not, what size they used to drill them? Ref: dwg 30 section L-L' and G-G'. Thanks, Vince Himsl Rv8 canoe Moscow, ID USA ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 16, 2002
From: "Ed O'Connor" <EdwardOConnor(at)compuserve.com>
Subject: EFIS 1
I have purchased the EFIS one for my RV-8 and talked to Greg at Sun n Fun about three things. If you have installed Vans Capacitance Fuel system, and purchased or plan on purchasing Eletronics International's module to operate them, Greg will have to add a special circuit on your EFIS board to make it work. The EI module puts out Pulsed AC or something and EFIS One looks for DC voltage as I understand it. Additionally, The NAV AID controller may not accept the GPS output of the EFIS one as is. Greg is checking into just what the NAV AID controller is looking for and determining if and what he may have to do to make EFIS one intergrate with NAV AID. Additionally, the EFIS one now has AOA. It requires an input like Perpitary Software's wing sensors. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ed Perry" <eperry(at)san.rr.com>
Subject: Engine hook up Questions
Date: Apr 16, 2002
O.k. I'm finally hanging everything on the engine. I have an IO-360-B1F with Bendix fuel servo. How have you guy secured the throttle and mixture controls to the servo? I tried the Van's Throttle/mixture cable holders and those did not even come close. Any ideas? Next it appears that my mount for the prop governor is stripped at the oil output line. Anybody have a spare? Just like everybody said - The Vetterman exhaust went on easily and fit perfect. Also - I used the method of attaching the engine to the mount and then the mount to the airplane and that was a piece of cake. I highly recommend this way for dynofocal mounts. Thanks, Ed Perry eperry(at)san.rr.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com>
Subject: RE: EFIS 1
Date: Apr 16, 2002
So without the EI module what happens? I have the cap. sender in my tanks, but no other tank-related equipment yet. Greg told me at SNF there would be plans for build-your-own AOA ports on his web site. - Larry Bowen RV-8 fuse Larry(at)BowenAero.com http://BowenAero.com http://groups.yahoo.com/group/GA-EFIS > -----Original Message----- > --> > > I have purchased the EFIS one for my RV-8 and talked to Greg > at Sun n Fun about three things. If you have installed Vans > Capacitance Fuel system, and purchased or plan on purchasing > Eletronics International's module to operate them, Greg will > have to add a special circuit on your EFIS board to make it > work. The EI module puts out Pulsed AC or something and EFIS > One looks for DC voltage as I understand it. Additionally, > The NAV AID controller may not accept the GPS output of the > EFIS one as is. Greg is checking into just what the NAV AID > controller is looking for and determining if and what he may > have to do to make EFIS one intergrate with NAV AID. > Additionally, the EFIS one now has AOA. It requires an input > like Perpitary Software's wing sensors. > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Brian's Mail" <bjharkin(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Can I really do this ....?
Date: Apr 20, 2002
I don't know about you guys, but I just got my preview plans today....and all I could say was Ah, am I gonna be able to do this? Please tell me I'm not the only one that was a little overwhelmed when they first got a look at the plans. I really want to build one of these amazing little buggers. I hope that's enough though. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Brian's Mail" <bjharkin(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: IO-360 vs O-320
Date: Apr 20, 2002
One more question, Is the extra $10K worth the 20 HP you get in the 360 over the 180 HP of the 320 ?? Isn't there a way to squeeze a few more ponies out of the 320 to make it closer to the 360?? ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 20, 2002
From: Kevin Horton <khorton(at)cyberus.ca>
Subject: Re: IO-360 vs O-320
> >One more question, Is the extra $10K worth the 20 HP you get in the 360 >over the 180 HP of the 320 ?? Isn't there a way to squeeze a few more >ponies out of the 320 to make it closer to the 360?? > OK, I'm confused. Which engines are you talking about, and whose prices? The last Van's catalog I saw had the following engines: engine hp price weight O-320-D1A 160 20225 255 (including ignition, but no other accessories) O-360-A1A 180 21850 258 (no ignition, or any other accessories) IO-360-M1B 180 26995 ?? (IO-360-M1A weighs 279 IO-360-A1B6 200 31300 302 (no ignition, or any other accessories) The weights are from the FAA Type Certicate Data Sheets. Note that the weight for the O-320 includes the mags, but the other models do not. So, if you are comparing the O-320 against the IO-360 A series, not only do you get 40 more hp, but you get a lot more weight for your money. If you compare the O-320 against the O-360, the price of the extra 20 hp seems pretty cheap. The O-320 costs $126/hp, the O-360 is $121/hp. And the IO-360 A series will cost you $156/hp. The O-360 is a very popular option, for a lot of good reasons. I was planning on an O-360 converted to fuel injection until I found an overhauled IO-360-A1B6 at a very attractive price. Not sure what the attraction of the IO-360-M1B is, as it isn't listed in the copy of the TCDS I've got. Probably similar to the M1A which has a forward facing fuel injector, which may let you use the smooth bottom cowl (no induction inlet below the spinner). -- Kevin Horton RV-8 (installing engine & electrics) Ottawa, Canada http://members.rogers.com/khorton/rv8.html http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randy Lervold" <randy@rv-8.com>
Subject: Re: Can I really do this ....?
Date: Apr 20, 2002
> I don't know about you guys, but I just got my preview plans > today....and all I could say was Ah, am I gonna be able to do this? > Please tell me I'm not the only one that was a little overwhelmed when > they first got a look at the plans. I really want to build one of these > amazing little buggers. I hope that's enough though. Brian, While building one of these planes is certainly NOT to be undertaken lightly, it can be done. I does take perseverance and patience. When people ask me about I like to say it takes three Ps: perseverance, patience, and planning. I've made some overall comments on this sort of thing on my web site... www.rv-8.com. Look on the "About the project" page. Regards, Randy Lervold RV-8, #80500, 154 hrs, back cover Van's 2002 calender ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "G. Miller" <gvm(at)cableone.net>
Subject: Can I really do this ....?
Date: Apr 20, 2002
Yup it's worth it. Just order the tail kit and see how easy it is. Greg rv8 n89gm, 130 TT -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Brian's Mail Subject: RV8-List: Can I really do this ....? I don't know about you guys, but I just got my preview plans today....and all I could say was Ah, am I gonna be able to do this? Please tell me I'm not the only one that was a little overwhelmed when they first got a look at the plans. I really want to build one of these amazing little buggers. I hope that's enough though. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "G. Miller" <gvm(at)cableone.net>
Subject: IO-360 vs O-320
Date: Apr 20, 2002
you must be looking at the fuel injected o-360? When I got my new 360 from vans in 1999 it was only 2 or 3K more than the 320. The fuel injected 360 version was way more. Greg -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Brian's Mail Subject: RV8-List: IO-360 vs O-320 One more question, Is the extra $10K worth the 20 HP you get in the 360 over the 180 HP of the 320 ?? Isn't there a way to squeeze a few more ponies out of the 320 to make it closer to the 360?? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jim Adams" <jimmiea(at)essex1.com>
Subject: Can I really do this...?
Date: Apr 20, 2002
I ordered the preview plans two years ago and wondered if I could do it too. In March this year I received my tail kit and as of today I am nearing completion of the horizontal stabalizer. I have found so far that all it takes is a lot of reading the instructions several times, staring at the drawings, and mentally fitting the parts together before you actually do it. Just getting everything ready for riveting is the hard part. the riveting is the easy part. March 1st this year I attended the Sportaire workshop in Oshkosh for RV assembly. I think that gave be the confidence that I could do it. I think if you try it you will like it. I sure do! Jim Adams RV8A ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 20, 2002
From: wx3o <wx3o(at)flash.net>
Subject: Re: Can I really do this ....?
Brian, You can eat the elephant one bite at a time. That is what makes the RVs such a good value. The detailed directions are better than about anything else out there. We all mess up a piece or two with a slip of the rivet gun, but it is easy to get a replacement part and keep on building. Best Regards, Mark Julicher RV-8 Tail feathers Taylorcraft BC-12, flying Brian's Mail wrote: > > I don't know about you guys, but I just got my preview plans > today....and all I could say was Ah, am I gonna be able to do this? > Please tell me I'm not the only one that was a little overwhelmed when > they first got a look at the plans. I really want to build one of these > amazing little buggers. I hope that's enough though. > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 21, 2002
From: mark andrews <redbeardmark(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Can I really do this ....?
You can do it. It is fun. Take your time and make sure you have the proper safety equipment if you paint. Mark Andrews RV-8A empennage finished --- Brian's Mail wrote: > > > I don't know about you guys, but I just got my > preview plans > today....and all I could say was Ah, am I gonna be > able to do this? > Please tell me I'm not the only one that was a > little overwhelmed when > they first got a look at the plans. I really want to > build one of these > amazing little buggers. I hope that's enough though. > > > > Contributions of > any other form > > latest messages. > other List members. > > http://www.matronics.com/subscription > http://www.matronics.com/photoshare > http://www.matronics.com/search > http://www.matronics.com/archives > http://www.matronics.com/emaillists > > > > > http://games.yahoo.com/ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 21, 2002
Subject: Re: Can I really do this ....?
From: John B Seal <j.seal(at)juno.com>
If you are able to assemble a barbecue grill, build a RC model airplane, etc., you can. Take your time, read the instructions, and the plans carefully before cutting or drilling metal. get some help from experienced builders around you. Build one of the training projects (I think Van sells one.) Invest in a complete set of quality tools. You may find someone with a completed project who wants to dispose of his tools. Join a builders' group in your area. If there isn't one, start one. It really helps is you can study someone else's project who is a little ahead of you. If you can't solve a problem with local help, call Van's. By the time you've finished the empennage, which is a great training exercise, you'll be ready to move on with a lot of self confidence. By the time you make that first flight, you'll look back and say, "What a great experience, I sure love this RV. Thanks Van!" Boyd Seal ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 12, 2002
From: Kevin Horton <khorto1537(at)rogers.com>
Subject: Airflow Perf fuel pump amperage?
I am temporarily unsure of the position of the documentation that came with my Airflow Performance electric fuel pump. I need to know how many amps the pump draws so I can sort out wire size, fuse size, relay rating, etc. Thanks, -- Kevin Horton RV-8 (installing engine & electrics) Ottawa, Canada http://members.rogers.com/khorton/rv8.html http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 12, 2002
From: Kevin Horton <khorto1537(at)rogers.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Airflow Perf fuel pump amperage?
>--> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton > >I am temporarily unsure of the position of the documentation that >came with my Airflow Performance electric fuel pump. I need to know >how many amps the pump draws so I can sort out wire size, fuse size, >relay rating, etc. > >Thanks, > >-- >Kevin Horton I got the answer I needed from a couple of people - AFP claims a 5 amp current draw. I suspect there will be a bit more current as the pump starts up, so I'm going to size the wire, fuse and relay to handle 10 amps. I expected my AFP docs to show up as soon as I posted the first question, but they are still hiding. If they don't show up in a few days I may have to post some really stupid questions to flush them out of hiding. :) Thanks, -- Kevin Horton RV-8 (installing engine & electrics) Ottawa, Canada http://members.rogers.com/khorton/rv8.html http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 12, 2002
From: "David L. Grebe" <davegrebe(at)pond.com>
Subject: Re: Airflow Perf fuel pump amperage?
The info I rec'd shows 5 amps @ 12 volts. David > >I am temporarily unsure of the position of the documentation that >came with my Airflow Performance electric fuel pump. I need to know >how many amps the pump draws so I can sort out wire size, fuse size, >relay rating, etc. > David Grebe RV-8 #80354...North Wales, PA Starting Finishing Kit ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 13, 2002
From: Steve Prull <sprull(at)bendcable.com>
Subject: Empennage kit for sale
My completed RV8 empennage kit is for sale once again. I thought I had it sold to a gentleman in California, but he backed out ( remodeling the kitchen won!). The kit is complete except for the attachment of the fiberglass tips. Excellent workmanship, checked early on by A&P with favorable feedback. Primed internally. My son needs to paint his car - really need to sell it this time! $1000 OBO. Located in Bend, Oregon. Have lots of digital pics. Steve Prull 541-383-8277 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 15, 2002
From: Kevin Horton <khorto1537(at)rogers.com>
Subject: ACK E-01 ELT remote control head dimensions
I'm getting ready to hack some holes in the right side of the instrument panel for my RV-8. I had hoped my ACK E-01 ELT would be here by now so I could see how big the remote control head was. I would appreciate it if someone could send me the following dimensions: 1. overall dimensions of the remote control head, and 2. dimensions of the hole you need to put in the panel. Thanks, -- Kevin Horton RV-8 (installing engine & electrics) Ottawa, Canada http://members.rogers.com/khorton/rv8.html http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 16, 2002
From: Kevin Horton <khorto1537(at)rogers.com>
Subject: e-mail and web page change
We finally got high speed internet out here in the sticks, so we're changing ISPs. Our new e-mail address is khorton(at)rogers.com (the one this message came from is only used for e-mail lists). My RV-8 page is now at http://members.rogers.com/khorton/rv8.html. The old page at Eccentrix will stay up for awhile, until I decide it is too much of a pain to maintain two sites. My RV Links page is now at http://members.rogers.com/khorton/rvlinks.html. The old page at Cyberus is dead. My Flight Test Links page is now at http://members.rogers.com/khorton/ftlinks.html . The old page at Cyberus is dead. Take care, -- Kevin Horton RV-8 (installing engine & electrics) Ottawa, Canada http://members.rogers.com/khorton/rv8.html http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 19, 2002
From: Jonathan Weiswasser <jonweisw(at)rcn.com>
Subject: F-855 Gussets
Dear List: I am having a little trouble understanding the placement of the F-855 gusset, which stabilizes the lower longeron to the firewall angle. The plans/drawings are extremely vague. Specifically: 1) Where does the gusset sit? It seems that DWG 30, fig X-X' depicts it as outside the firewall angle - but does it sit between the aux longeron and the weldment or between the skin and the longeron? 2) The manual references holes drilled in the gusset from both the F-843 and F-844 longerons. How can that be? The gusset does not have enough length to reach around and cover both longerons. I can't tell from the plans if it is supposed to or not. Do I have it oriented incorrectly? 3) There are pre-punched holes which do not correspond to any in the angle on the firewall, or any in the prepunched skins, etc... Is this correct? Any help is greatly appreciated. Jon Weiswasser N898JW Fuselage ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RV8DRIVER(at)aol.com
Date: May 19, 2002
Subject: Re: F-855 Gussets
Jon, the F-855 goes inside everthing, weldment and F-844 angle, and the bottom p/p holes should line up with the 5 1/8" holes you drilled from the skin through the weldment and the F-844. The F-855 does not connect to the F-843. Look at view C-C' in the lower left corner of the dwg for clarification. Good luck, Andy Johnson ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 19, 2002
From: Jonathan Weiswasser <jonweisw(at)rcn.com>
Subject: Re: F-855 Gussets
Andy- Thanks SO MUCH for the reply. This kind of help is what maked this list so valuable. How could you build these before the internet? Anyway, I have included some pix - I hope the didn't take too long to download. The first depicts how assume it is supposed to be installed - the bent tab (which has a little gap between it and the weldment as seen in pix 2) lies inside everything including the weldment. The pp holes, however, are on the other tab - the one that lies on the fw angle. If I reverse the orientation and put the tab with the holes on the weldment, you get picture 3, which clearly has something wrong with it. If I use the orientation in picture 1, I end up having to center it over the already drilled 1/8" holes and then bending the tab back a little to mate flush. DOes that look right? Thanks again, Jon RV8DRIVER(at)aol.com wrote: > >Jon, the F-855 goes inside everthing, weldment and F-844 angle, and the >bottom p/p holes should line up with the 5 1/8" holes you drilled from the >skin through the weldment and the F-844. The F-855 does not connect to the >F-843. Look at view C-C' in the lower left corner of the dwg for >clarification. >Good luck, Andy Johnson > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Shane Summerhays" <ssummerhays(at)attbi.com>
Subject: to dimple or cs
Date: May 20, 2002
Dear friends, I am considering counter sinking the rear spar at the aileron attach doubblers, no dimple here. It sounds like the best bet given the thickness of the two materials. Does anyone have any comments or suggestions Shane Summerhays rv8 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 28, 2002
Subject: [ Gary Crowder ] : New Email List Photo Share Available!
From: Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com>
A new Email List Photo Share is available: Poster: Gary Crowder Subject: Manual trim cable mount http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/rv9er@3rivers.net.05.28.2002/index.html -------------------------------------------- o EMAIL LIST PHOTO SHARE Share your files and photos with other List members simply by emailing the files to: pictures(at)matronics.com Please view the typical Share above and include the Description Text Fields as shown along with your submission of files and photos. o Main Photo Share Index: http://www.matronics.com/photoshare -------------------------------------------- ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 29, 2002
Subject: [ Kevin ] : New Email List Photo Share Available!
From: Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com>
A new Email List Photo Share is available: Poster: Kevin Subject: AK aug 2001 http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/rv8r300@attbi.com.05.29.2002/index.html -------------------------------------------- o EMAIL LIST PHOTO SHARE Share your files and photos with other List members simply by emailing the files to: pictures(at)matronics.com Please view the typical Share above and include the Description Text Fields as shown along with your submission of files and photos. o Main Photo Share Index: http://www.matronics.com/photoshare -------------------------------------------- ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 30, 2002
Subject: [ RW ] : New Email List Photo Share Available!
From: Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com>
A new Email List Photo Share is available: Poster: RW Subject: New RV-8 http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/chiefs@teleport.com.05.30.2002/index.html -------------------------------------------- o EMAIL LIST PHOTO SHARE Share your files and photos with other List members simply by emailing the files to: pictures(at)matronics.com Please view the typical Share above and include the Description Text Fields as shown along with your submission of files and photos. o Main Photo Share Index: http://www.matronics.com/photoshare -------------------------------------------- ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 01, 2002
Subject: [ George Kilishek ] : New Email List Photo Share Available!
From: Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com>
A new Email List Photo Share is available: Poster: George Kilishek Subject: RV-8 N888GK http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/aeronut58@hotmail.com.06.01.2002/index.html -------------------------------------------- o EMAIL LIST PHOTO SHARE Share your files and photos with other List members simply by emailing the files to: pictures(at)matronics.com Please view the typical Share above and include the Description Text Fields as shown along with your submission of files and photos. o Main Photo Share Index: http://www.matronics.com/photoshare -------------------------------------------- ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 02, 2002
From: Kevin Horton <khorto1537(at)rogers.com>
Subject: PS Engineering PMA 4000 audio panel?
I need to finalize my avionics list so I can go spend some money. I'm thinking about using the PS Engineering PMA 4000 audio panel, and would appreciate any comments from anyone who has one. Specifically, how well does the auto squelch work? Are there any features this audio panel is missing? Would you buy this audio panel again? Thanks, -- Kevin Horton RV-8 (installing engine & electrics) Ottawa, Canada http://members.rogers.com/khorton/rv8.html http://eccentrix.com/misc/rv8/rv8.html ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Marcus" <marcustuck(at)cwcom.net>
Subject: RV8 Wing NACA Vent
Date: Jun 03, 2002
Can anyone help, I have received my RV-8 wing kit and found everything on the packing list, but what about the NACA vent fitted to the underside of the wing? The wing is pre-punched for it but its not in the kit, or on the packing list. Is it fitted/supplied later, it would seem logical to fit it while the wing is open and I have easy access. Marcus Tuck RV-8 Wings ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randy Lervold" <randy@rv-8.com>
Subject: Re: RV8 Wing NACA Vent
Date: Jun 03, 2002
It comes with the fuselage. Randy Lervold www.rv-8.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "Marcus" <marcustuck(at)cwcom.net> Subject: RV8-List: RV8 Wing NACA Vent > > Can anyone help, I have received my RV-8 wing kit and found everything on > the packing list, but what about the NACA vent fitted to the underside of > the wing? The wing is pre-punched for it but its not in the kit, or on the > packing list. Is it fitted/supplied later, it would seem logical to fit it > while the wing is open and I have easy access. > > Marcus Tuck > RV-8 Wings > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 03, 2002
From: Scott Bilinski <bilinski(at)qcpi.com>
Subject: Re: RV8 Wing NACA Vent
The vent is extra$$$$ It was/is a option on the wing kit order form. > >Can anyone help, I have received my RV-8 wing kit and found everything on >the packing list, but what about the NACA vent fitted to the underside of >the wing? The wing is pre-punched for it but its not in the kit, or on the >packing list. Is it fitted/supplied later, it would seem logical to fit it >while the wing is open and I have easy access. > >Marcus Tuck >RV-8 Wings > > Scott Bilinski Eng dept 8220 Phone (858) 657-2536 Pager (858) 502-5190 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Terry Watson" <terrywatson3(at)attbi.com>
Subject: Re: RV8 Wing NACA Vent
Date: Jun 03, 2002
Marcus, I thought the same thing and ordered one. Another one came with the fuselage kit, so now I have 2. Terry RV-8A # 80729 fuselage & finish Seattle > > Can anyone help, I have received my RV-8 wing kit and found everything on > the packing list, but what about the NACA vent fitted to the underside of > the wing? The wing is pre-punched for it but its not in the kit, or on the > packing list. Is it fitted/supplied later, it would seem logical to fit it > while the wing is open and I have easy access. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 03, 2002
From: Scott Bilinski <bilinski(at)qcpi.com>
Subject: Re: RV8 Wing NACA Vent
The vent that cames with the fuse is for pilot air. Passanger air is installed in the wing when building the wing. Be very difficult installing it when the wing is finished. I ordered passanger air and installed it when building the wing. Just got the fuse 2 weeks ago and only 1 vent. Just send Vans an E-mail and verify. I am willing to bet my 2 cents that it is a option with/for the wing kit. :-) Just checked the order form and did not see it as a option.......Bottom line I had to pay extra for it. > >It comes with the fuselage. > >Randy Lervold >www.rv-8.com > >----- Original Message ----- >From: "Marcus" <marcustuck(at)cwcom.net> >To: >Subject: RV8-List: RV8 Wing NACA Vent > > >> >> Can anyone help, I have received my RV-8 wing kit and found everything on >> the packing list, but what about the NACA vent fitted to the underside of >> the wing? The wing is pre-punched for it but its not in the kit, or on >the >> packing list. Is it fitted/supplied later, it would seem logical to fit >it >> while the wing is open and I have easy access. >> >> Marcus Tuck >> RV-8 Wings >> >> > > Scott Bilinski Eng dept 8220 Phone (858) 657-2536 Pager (858) 502-5190 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 03, 2002
From: Brian Huffaker <bifft(at)xmission.com>
Subject: Re: RV8 Wing NACA Vent
On Mon, 3 Jun 2002, Scott Bilinski wrote: > --> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski > > The vent that cames with the fuse is for pilot air. Passanger air is > installed in the wing when building the wing. Be very difficult installing > it when the wing is finished. > Not all that difficult. It wasn't in the wing kit yet when I got mine (very slow builder), saw the vent in the factory 8 at an airshow, and asked how they put it on. Installing on the finished wing was no big deal. Cut out the hole, debur and vacuum out the chips. I used RTV and blind rivits to hold it on (didn't want to do proseal again) Just reach in through the lightening holes. Brian Huffaker, DSWL (bifft(at)xmission.com) RV-8A 80091 Installing step 1/4 Starduster II N23UT flying ________________________________________________________________________________
From: C462c(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 05, 2002
Subject: wood prop for 0-360& RV-8???
Does anyone have any experience with wood props used with the 0-360 on a RV-8? I've heard of a supplier in Maryland that makes a wood prop for this application. Thanks for any feedback. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 05, 2002
From: Scott Bilinski <bilinski(at)qcpi.com>
Subject: First Flight
The age old debate, should you fly the first flight? The way I look at it is, there are just under 3000 RV's flying they are a proven solid design. If there had been only 15 built I would not want to fly the first flight, due to not enough of a track record. I also think there is a much bigger chance of a engine problem rather than a airplane problem. Any factory plane with a rebuilt engine has the same chance of having a engine problem in my opinion. So get the transition training and go for the first flight? Whats your opinion? Scott Bilinski Eng dept 8220 Phone (858) 657-2536 Pager (858) 502-5190 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "G. Miller" <gvm(at)cableone.net>
Subject: First Flight
Date: Jun 05, 2002
I agree. I didn't even get any transition, too far away--too much time. I did get 15 hours tail wheel practice just before. Did several static run-ups with the cowl to make sure no leaks. Further, since the engine was new, I full bored it for three hours straight. The first hour was circling over IDA with the emergency trucks and tower right there. However, I was not a low time pilot. All went fine. YMMV... Good luke. Greg Miller RV8 N89GM -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Scott Bilinski Subject: RV8-List: First Flight The age old debate, should you fly the first flight? The way I look at it is, there are just under 3000 RV's flying they are a proven solid design. If there had been only 15 built I would not want to fly the first flight, due to not enough of a track record. I also think there is a much bigger chance of a engine problem rather than a airplane problem. Any factory plane with a rebuilt engine has the same chance of having a engine problem in my opinion. So get the transition training and go for the first flight? Whats your opinion? Scott Bilinski Eng dept 8220 Phone (858) 657-2536 Pager (858) 502-5190 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 06, 2002
Subject: RV-8 Roll over bar location
From: "Edward O'Connor" <edwardoconnor(at)compuserve.com>
Reference DWG 37 Dated 4/25/97 for locating the roll over bar on RV-8. My drawings show a distance from the aft side of firewall to the aft side of the rollover bar of 35 15/16" and a reference distance from the roll over bar to the F-807 Bulkhead of 46 1/16". When I locate my rollover bar at the distance called for in the drawing from the firewall, I get a distance of 46 5/16" from the bar to the Bulkhead. About a 1/4" error from the drawing. My questin to those who have already been there is; which distance is the critical one? Should I locate the rollover bar to the specs from the firewall and accept the distance to the F-807 or halve the difference or use the distance from the Bulkead as the critical measurement and accept a greater distance from the Firewall or does it even matter? I guess it involves which is easire to adjust when mounting the canopy, the windscreen or the conopy? Any input would be appreciated. Ed O"Connor RV-8/N366RV Panama City, FL ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 06, 2002
From: glenn williams <willig10(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RV-8 Roll over bar location
I had the same problem. ( I am in George Orndorffs hangar) I had him look at this as well last week and he informed me to make the measurement from the aft side of the firewall the critical measurement. I had about 1/4" gap between the two marks and basically split them in two and used that as a reference when drilling the holes. I used a steel plate bar clamped behind the roll bar and used the forward side of the bar to locate the structure on my measured marks. Hope this helps. Glenn Williams --- Edward O'Connor wrote: > > > Reference DWG 37 Dated 4/25/97 for locating the roll > over bar on RV-8. My > drawings show a distance from the aft side of > firewall to the aft side of > the rollover bar of 35 15/16" and a reference > distance from the roll over > bar to the F-807 Bulkhead of 46 1/16". When I > locate my rollover bar at the > distance called for in the drawing from the > firewall, I get a distance of 46 > 5/16" from the bar to the Bulkhead. About a 1/4" > error from the drawing. > My questin to those who have already been there is; > which distance is the > critical one? Should I locate the rollover bar to > the specs from the > firewall and accept the distance to the F-807 or > halve the difference or use > the distance from the Bulkead as the critical > measurement and accept a > greater distance from the Firewall or does it even > matter? I guess it > involves which is easire to adjust when mounting the > canopy, the windscreen > or the conopy? Any input would be appreciated. > Ed O"Connor > RV-8/N366RV > Panama City, FL > > > > Contributions of > any other form > > latest messages. > other List members. > > http://www.matronics.com/subscription > http://www.matronics.com/photoshare > http://www.matronics.com/search > http://www.matronics.com/archives > http://www.matronics.com/emaillists > > > > > ===== Glenn Williams 8A A&P N81GW http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 06, 2002
From: Kevin Horton <khorto1537(at)rogers.com>
Subject: 5mm wire seals?
I've got some coax cable I need to run through the baffle on my RV-8 to send power to the LightSpeed coils. The coax is 5 mm in diameter, so I ordered 5 mm ignition wire seals from ACS. Well, the part number on the package matches the description in the catalog, but the holes are about 7 mm in diameter. So, can anyone point me at a vendor who actually carries 5 mm wire seals for two wires? I've had such a frustrating and expensive time dealing with AC$ that I'll order these things from just about anywhere to avoid having to deal with them again. Thanks, -- Kevin Horton RV-8 (installing engine & electrics) Ottawa, Canada http://members.rogers.com/khorton/rv8.html ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Robert J. Dean" <deanrobertj(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Ridge edge distance
Date: Jun 06, 2002
I am current working on the horizontal stablizer. At one point it says to enlarge the holes in the flange of HS-708 to Drill size no. 19. It appears that if you do this there is not enough minimum edge distance (2D) to be legal. My calculations (from memory) are as follows: Decimal equvalent of #19 drill: .166 times 2 equals required minimum edge distance of .332. There are two edge distances and one drill hole whose total adds up to .830 (.332 plus .332 plus .166). The measured width of the flange on the HS708 is 5/8 or .625. If my calculations are correct the minimum edge distance requirement of 2D is not met on the narrow portion of the flange(width) that connects to the rear spar. If my analysis is correct, I think the problem was created when they went from a 1/8 rivet to a blind rivet large enough to require a number 19 drill hole. I belive this was done to simplify construction methods. It seems that the flange for the 708 should have been made wide enough to meet the minimun edge distance requirement. If I am correct, does anybody have a solution? From everything I read I do not think that minimum edge distance is anything to be ignored. Thanks, Bob Dean MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Michel Boucher" <michelboucher594(at)rogers.com>
Subject: Re: RV-8 Roll over bar location
Date: Jun 07, 2002
On mine playing with the dimensions gave me more of a gap between the roll-over bar and the canopy frame then I liked. If I was to do it over again I would probably forget any dimensions. Install the canopy slider frame as you cannot adjust that. Then set the roll-over bar with the recommended gap between the frame. Just another idea. Michel RV3 1100 hrs RV8 painting -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of glenn williams Subject: RV-List: Re: RV8-List: RV-8 Roll over bar location --> RV-List message posted by: glenn williams I had the same problem. ( I am in George Orndorffs hangar) I had him look at this as well last week and he informed me to make the measurement from the aft side of the firewall the critical measurement. I had about 1/4" gap between the two marks and basically split them in two and used that as a reference when drilling the holes. I used a steel plate bar clamped behind the roll bar and used the forward side of the bar to locate the structure on my measured marks. Hope this helps. Glenn Williams --- Edward O'Connor wrote: > > > Reference DWG 37 Dated 4/25/97 for locating the roll > over bar on RV-8. My > drawings show a distance from the aft side of > firewall to the aft side of > the rollover bar of 35 15/16" and a reference > distance from the roll over > bar to the F-807 Bulkhead of 46 1/16". When I > locate my rollover bar at the > distance called for in the drawing from the > firewall, I get a distance of 46 > 5/16" from the bar to the Bulkhead. About a 1/4" > error from the drawing. > My questin to those who have already been there is; > which distance is the > critical one? Should I locate the rollover bar to > the specs from the > firewall and accept the distance to the F-807 or > halve the difference or use > the distance from the Bulkead as the critical > measurement and accept a > greater distance from the Firewall or does it even > matter? I guess it > involves which is easire to adjust when mounting the > canopy, the windscreen > or the conopy? Any input would be appreciated. > Ed O"Connor > RV-8/N366RV > Panama City, FL > > > Contributions of > any other form > > latest messages. > other List members. > > http://www.matronics.com/subscription > http://www.matronics.com/photoshare > http://www.matronics.com/search > http://www.matronics.com/archives > http://www.matronics.com/emaillists > > ===== Glenn Williams 8A A&P N81GW http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 12, 2002
From: TwoAviators <TwoAviators(at)lexcominc.net>
Subject: Need engine guru!!!
Have RV6, with Lycoming 0-360. Slick mags, bendix fuel injection. Starts perfect, smooth with normal mag drop. AS the engine warms up it runs rougher and rougher. Eventually will barely run at all, what the heck is going on here? Checked the mags timing, replaced plugs, pulled injectors and all seemed to be "peeing" uniformly. Turned on the boost pump, nothing helped. It is obviously heat related, I am looking to send the fuel injection system back to have it checked out, any other thoughts? Thanks. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com>
Subject: Need engine guru!!!
Date: Jun 12, 2002
What opinions does the guy who built the engine have to offer? - Larry Bowen Larry(at)BowenAero.com http://BowenAero.com > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of TwoAviators > Sent: Wednesday, June 12, 2002 1:06 PM > To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV8-List: Need engine guru!!! > > > > > Have RV6, with Lycoming 0-360. Slick mags, bendix fuel > injection. Starts perfect, smooth with normal mag drop. AS > the engine warms up it runs rougher and rougher. Eventually > will barely run at all, what the heck is going on here? > > Checked the mags timing, replaced plugs, pulled injectors and > all seemed to be "peeing" uniformly. Turned on the boost > pump, nothing helped. It is obviously heat related, I am > looking to send the fuel injection system back to have it > checked out, any other thoughts? > > Thanks. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 12, 2002
From: TwoAviators <TwoAviators(at)lexcominc.net>
Subject: Need engine guru!!!
Bob Barrows the man that rebuilt the engine said send the fuel injection components to the manufacturer for check out. We will do that. Just thought Id ask if there were any other ideas. I am wondering if the capacitor in the Mag is getting hot and not working. Hopefully Paul will get it al figured out soon. I am flying to Hotlanta tomorrow, hope to fly the 8 Friday. Dan > >What opinions does the guy who built the engine have to offer? > >- >Larry Bowen >Larry(at)BowenAero.com >http://BowenAero.com > > >> -----Original Message----- >> From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com >> [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of TwoAviators >> Sent: Wednesday, June 12, 2002 1:06 PM >> To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com >> Subject: RV8-List: Need engine guru!!! >> >> >> >> >> Have RV6, with Lycoming 0-360. Slick mags, bendix fuel >> injection. Starts perfect, smooth with normal mag drop. AS >> the engine warms up it runs rougher and rougher. Eventually >> will barely run at all, what the heck is going on here? >> >> Checked the mags timing, replaced plugs, pulled injectors and >> all seemed to be "peeing" uniformly. Turned on the boost >> pump, nothing helped. It is obviously heat related, I am >> looking to send the fuel injection system back to have it >> checked out, any other thoughts? >> >> Thanks. >> >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Paul R. Antoinette" <antoinep(at)rmi.net>
Subject: relocating elevator trim servo
Date: Jun 12, 2002
At some point I came across a kit to relocate the elevator trim servo from the elevator to inside the rear of the fuselage. Anyone else seen this and have experience with it? I can no longer locate contact info. Paul R. Antoinette SGS1-26 N8672R #207 mailto:antoinep(at)rmi.net ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "van Bladeren, Ron" <rwv(at)nwnatural.com>
Subject: Need engine guru!!!
Date: Jun 13, 2002
Is this a recent rebuild? Was the dry tappet clearance checked before first run? -----Original Message----- From: TwoAviators [mailto:TwoAviators(at)lexcominc.net] Subject: RE: RV8-List: Need engine guru!!! Bob Barrows the man that rebuilt the engine said send the fuel injection components to the manufacturer for check out. We will do that. Just thought Id ask if there were any other ideas. I am wondering if the capacitor in the Mag is getting hot and not working. Hopefully Paul will get it al figured out soon. I am flying to Hotlanta tomorrow, hope to fly the 8 Friday. Dan > >What opinions does the guy who built the engine have to offer? > >- >Larry Bowen >Larry(at)BowenAero.com >http://BowenAero.com > > >> -----Original Message----- >> From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com >> [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of TwoAviators >> Sent: Wednesday, June 12, 2002 1:06 PM >> To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com >> Subject: RV8-List: Need engine guru!!! >> >> >> >> >> Have RV6, with Lycoming 0-360. Slick mags, bendix fuel >> injection. Starts perfect, smooth with normal mag drop. AS >> the engine warms up it runs rougher and rougher. Eventually >> will barely run at all, what the heck is going on here? >> >> Checked the mags timing, replaced plugs, pulled injectors and >> all seemed to be "peeing" uniformly. Turned on the boost >> pump, nothing helped. It is obviously heat related, I am >> looking to send the fuel injection system back to have it >> checked out, any other thoughts? >> >> Thanks. >> >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 13, 2002
Subject: [ Fabian Lefler ] : New Email List Photo Share Available!
From: Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com>
A new Email List Photo Share is available: Poster: Fabian Lefler Subject: Compressor-Tool Bench http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/FLEFLER@broward.org.06.13.2002/index.html -------------------------------------------- o EMAIL LIST PHOTO SHARE Share your files and photos with other List members simply by emailing the files to: pictures(at)matronics.com Please view the typical Share above and include the Description Text Fields as shown along with your submission of files and photos. o Main Photo Share Index: http://www.matronics.com/photoshare -------------------------------------------- ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 14, 2002
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: List Browsing Feature!
Dear Listers, I thought I'd post a little reminder to everyone about a very slick feature of the email Lists here at Matronics. You can now use Netscape or Internet Explorer to browse the current messages on your favorite List! The List Browse Function tracks the current 7 day's worth of List messages for any given List. Indexes are updated every 30 minutes with new messages that have been posted. You can resort the message indexes by Thread, Subject, Author, or Date and easily track and find current threads. A number of List members have written to say that they love the List Browser because they can keep tabs on the latest List messages throughout the day without having to constantly check their email or wait for the Digest issue to come out. You can check out the List Browse Feature by going to the following URL and clicking on the List of your choice: http://www.matronics.com/listbrowse Enjoy! Matt Dralle Email List Admin. Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551 925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Keith Bedell" <bedelk(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: XDP4000X-List: unhappy
Date: Jun 14, 2002
All- I hooked up my xdp-4000x and it sounds like crap. I ordered the necessary cable from online and tried to tune it, but it just got worse. Is there something missing htat I need to do to get it to work. When I bypass it with rca splitters the res of my system works like a charm. I have the 6001ES running three 10' ES subs. Then 2 1805 ES's handling everything else. Aside from the problems with the 4x, there is a huge disparity between cd volume and radio volume. I mean huge!!!. I can max out radio volume and it sounds ok, then pop in a cd and half way blows mee out of the cab. Any ideas, I anm just so dissapointed right now.... From: Matt Dralle <DRALLE(at)MATRONICS.COM> Reply-To: xdp4000x-list(at)matronics.com To: Email-Lists(at)matronics.com Subject: XDP4000X-List: List Browsing Feature! Date: Fri, 14 Jun 2002 00:52:33 -0700 -- XDP4000X-List message posted by: Matt Dralle Dear Listers, I thought I'd post a little reminder to everyone about a very slick feature of the email Lists here at Matronics. You can now use Netscape or Internet Explorer to browse the current messages on your favorite List! The List Browse Function tracks the current 7 day's worth of List messages for any given List. Indexes are updated every 30 minutes with new messages that have been posted. You can resort the message indexes by Thread, Subject, Author, or Date and easily track and find current threads. A number of List members have written to say that they love the List Browser because they can keep tabs on the latest List messages throughout the day without having to constantly check their email or wait for the Digest issue to come out. You can check out the List Browse Feature by going to the following URL and clicking on the List of your choice: http://www.matronics.com/listbrowse Enjoy! Matt Dralle Email List Admin. Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551 925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 15, 2002
From: DavidAWilks(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: RV8-List Digest: 2 Msgs - 06/14/02
I would like to invite all RV builders, flyers and Enthusiasts to our November 15-17 Fly-In!! I am hosting this event in the name of FUN!! The host airport is Galveston, Texas at the Lonestar Flight Museum. Come join the fun and enter the show. Local EAA chapters will be making Young Eagle flights throughout the day. Phillips 66 fuel rebates and local fuel pricing will be in effect for all flyers. Saturday night we will host a banquet inside the Lonestar Flight Museum. Nothing better than dancing the night away with history surrounding us. For more information and a list of all the historic tour sites, please view our website. http://www.davidawilks.com/fly-in Hope to see you there!! David Wilks 832-282-4004 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com>
Subject: Canopy cuttin'
Date: Jun 16, 2002
I'm making the initial cuts to my RV-8 canopy. I'm almost up to the lines on the canopy that represent the factory planes. Things are fitting well, but it's still about 3/8" from the rollover bar. Do I keep cutting past the lines or am I at the point where everyone else cut it in half "early"? Canopy cuttin' in Carolina, - Larry Bowen Larry(at)BowenAero.com http://BowenAero.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "G. Miller" <gvm(at)cableone.net>
Subject: Canopy cuttin'
Date: Jun 16, 2002
Go slow with lots of trial fits using about 25 clamps. Took me about 20 iterations of fit (clamp all around), mark, trim, sand edges... before ready to drill. Greg -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Larry Bowen Subject: RV8-List: Canopy cuttin' I'm making the initial cuts to my RV-8 canopy. I'm almost up to the lines on the canopy that represent the factory planes. Things are fitting well, but it's still about 3/8" from the rollover bar. Do I keep cutting past the lines or am I at the point where everyone else cut it in half "early"? Canopy cuttin' in Carolina, - Larry Bowen Larry(at)BowenAero.com http://BowenAero.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 16, 2002
From: jollyd <jollyd(at)ipns.com>
Subject: Re: Canopy cuttin'
ABOVE ALL...MAKE SURE THE PLASTIC IS AS WARM AS YOU CAN GET IT..AND...GO SLOW, AND TRIAL FIT AFTER EVERY CUT.. good luck...and if you need another canopy I have an extra one.... "G. Miller" wrote: > > Go slow with lots of trial fits using about 25 clamps. Took me about 20 > iterations of fit (clamp all around), mark, trim, sand edges... before ready > to drill. > > Greg > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Larry Bowen > To: rv8list(at)yahoogroups.com; rv8-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV8-List: Canopy cuttin' > > > I'm making the initial cuts to my RV-8 canopy. I'm almost up to the > lines on the canopy that represent the factory planes. Things are > fitting well, but it's still about 3/8" from the rollover bar. Do I > keep cutting past the lines or am I at the point where everyone else cut > it in half "early"? > > Canopy cuttin' in Carolina, > > - > Larry Bowen > Larry(at)BowenAero.com > http://BowenAero.com > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 16, 2002
From: "David L. Grebe" <davegrebe(at)pond.com>
Subject: Re: Canopy cuttin'
Larry, I've just passed that point, am now adding 'glass fairing between windscreen & fwd fuselage. My experience was that within 1/4" of the factory lines, AND with notches cut in the canopy to avoid the frame's ribs, I was able to get a good fit all around, including having it lay on top of the rollover bar....just had to adjust front/back position and mostly adjust the 'windscreen's' match to the top fwd fuselage. Laying on the bar gave me solid support while making the parting-cut.....which, shaking hands notwithstanding, went must fine with the kit's cutting wheel. Spend lots of time getting things lined up and each step clear in your mind....there's only one attempt! Best, David > >I'm making the initial cuts to my RV-8 canopy. I'm almost up to the >lines on the canopy that represent the factory planes. Things are >fitting well, but it's still about 3/8" from the rollover bar. Do I >keep cutting past the lines or am I at the point where everyone else cut >it in half "early"? > David Grebe RV-8 #80354...North Wales, PA Starting Finishing Kit ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com>
Subject: Re: Canopy cuttin'
Date: Jun 16, 2002
Thanks for all of the advice. I am doing all of it. But the quesiton was, when is the bubble cut in half? Many folks say they did it earlier than the plans say. My question for those folks is: When was that? Also, how much is typically cut off the sides? I haven't done any yet. The sides are just now getting to where they touch the frame. Thanks, - Larry Bowen Larry(at)BowenAero.com http://BowenAero.com > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of jollyd > Sent: Sunday, June 16, 2002 12:24 PM > To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV-List: Re: RV8-List: Canopy cuttin' > > > --> RV-List message posted by: jollyd > > ABOVE ALL...MAKE SURE THE PLASTIC IS AS WARM AS YOU CAN GET > IT..AND...GO SLOW, AND TRIAL FIT AFTER EVERY CUT.. good > luck...and if you need another canopy I have an extra one.... > > "G. Miller" wrote: > > > > > Go slow with lots of trial fits using about 25 clamps. Took > me about > > 20 iterations of fit (clamp all around), mark, trim, sand edges... > > before ready to drill. > > > > Greg > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com > > [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Larry Bowen > > To: rv8list(at)yahoogroups.com; rv8-list(at)matronics.com > > Subject: RV8-List: Canopy cuttin' > > > > > > I'm making the initial cuts to my RV-8 canopy. I'm almost > up to the > > lines on the canopy that represent the factory planes. Things are > > fitting well, but it's still about 3/8" from the rollover > bar. Do I > > keep cutting past the lines or am I at the point where > everyone else > > cut it in half "early"? > > > > Canopy cuttin' in Carolina, > > > > - > > Larry Bowen > > Larry(at)BowenAero.com > > http://BowenAero.com > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com>
Subject: Canopy cuttin'
Date: Jun 16, 2002
Thanks for the advice. I've made another cut to the 'factory lines'. I'll try another fit as soon as I can get wifey to help hoist it up there. Again! It fits well in the back, and the 3.25" between the windshield and the bag door is good, so I guess I'll keep taking little bits off until it touches the roll bar. - Larry Bowen Larry(at)BowenAero.com http://BowenAero.com > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of > David L. Grebe > Sent: Sunday, June 16, 2002 1:00 PM > To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV8-List: Canopy cuttin' > > > > Larry, I've just passed that point, am now adding 'glass > fairing between windscreen & fwd fuselage. My experience was > that within 1/4" of the factory lines, AND with notches cut > in the canopy to avoid the frame's ribs, I was able to get a > good fit all around, including having it lay on top of the > rollover bar....just had to adjust front/back position and > mostly adjust the 'windscreen's' match to the top fwd > fuselage. Laying on the bar gave me solid support while > making the parting-cut.....which, shaking hands > notwithstanding, went must fine with the kit's cutting wheel. > Spend lots > of time getting things lined up and each step clear in your > mind....there's only one attempt! > > Best, > David > > > > > >I'm making the initial cuts to my RV-8 canopy. I'm almost up to the > >lines on the canopy that represent the factory planes. Things are > >fitting well, but it's still about 3/8" from the rollover bar. Do I > >keep cutting past the lines or am I at the point where everyone else > >cut it in half "early"? > > > David Grebe > RV-8 #80354...North Wales, PA > Starting Finishing Kit > > > =========== > =========== > =========== > =========== > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 17, 2002
From: TwoAviators <TwoAviators(at)lexcominc.net>
Subject: hot engine???
Need an engine guru again. My RV8 made first test flights (2) today. Everything went well, despite the really nervous pilot. The oil temp shot up to 210 in tem minutes. THe CHT was 325, the EGT was 1200 at cruise, and so what the heck is going on here. I have a 9 row cooler, and still the temp spiked. I am running a plenum as do the Rocket people. Thoughts? Thanks, Dan Ward ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "G. Miller" <gvm(at)cableone.net>
Subject: hot engine???
Date: Jun 17, 2002
My -8 is standard setup O-360. Runs typically at 180F oil, CHT 300F cruise to 390F during long climb out, and about 1210F EGT with peak at 1350 burning 91 octane auto. EGT runs a bit hotter running 100LL. These are Vans gages. Except for your oil temp, it sounds normal. Make sure your oil temp sensor and gage are ok, e.g. the boiling water test. Congrats on the flights!! Wasn't that fun? On my first flight my elevator trim switches were reversed. Pucker factor until I figured it out... Greg Miller N89GM -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of TwoAviators Subject: RV8-List: hot engine??? Need an engine guru again. My RV8 made first test flights (2) today. Everything went well, despite the really nervous pilot. The oil temp shot up to 210 in tem minutes. THe CHT was 325, the EGT was 1200 at cruise, and so what the heck is going on here. I have a 9 row cooler, and still the temp spiked. I am running a plenum as do the Rocket people. Thoughts? Thanks, Dan Ward ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 19, 2002
From: TwoAviators <TwoAviators(at)lexcominc.net>
Subject: Cowlflaps anyone?
Has anyone put cowl flaps on their RV? I feel the design is so clean under the airplane that there is little vacuum created to assist the cooling of the high pressure above the engine. Am I nuts? Seems cowl flaps though something else to deal with, might be a simple way to get more 'low pressure' in the lower section of the cowling, might especially help in climb where speeds are slower. Well what do ya think? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: romeo.victor@t-online.de (Stephan Servatius)
Subject: Re: Cowlflaps anyone?
Date: Jun 20, 2002
Hi guys, I did. Once with an additional oil cooler and a seperated NACA inlet on the right side and an air outlet in a shape of a gill at the lower cowling. For the time no experiences. I am shortly prior the first flight Stephan Servatius 80303 Germany TwoAviators schrieb: > > Has anyone put cowl flaps on their RV? I feel the design is so clean under > the airplane that there is little vacuum created to assist the cooling of > the high pressure above the engine. > > Am I nuts? Seems cowl flaps though something else to deal with, might be a > simple way to get more 'low pressure' in the lower section of the cowling, > might especially help in climb where speeds are slower. > > Well what do ya think? > > Stephan Servatius Untere Hauptstr. 3 85461 Bockhorn Germany ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Kuehn, George" <George.Kuehn(at)ost.dot.gov>
Subject: Cowlflaps anyone?
Date: Jun 20, 2002
Check out Greg Hale's RV-8 site. http://www.nwacaptain.com/ I think Van also experimented with cowl flaps on the 8. -----Original Message----- From: TwoAviators [mailto:TwoAviators(at)lexcominc.net] Subject: RV8-List: Cowlflaps anyone? Has anyone put cowl flaps on their RV? I feel the design is so clean under the airplane that there is little vacuum created to assist the cooling of the high pressure above the engine. Am I nuts? Seems cowl flaps though something else to deal with, might be a simple way to get more 'low pressure' in the lower section of the cowling, might especially help in climb where speeds are slower. Well what do ya think? ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 21, 2002
From: "Boyd Seal" <supersonic(at)mail.sisna.com>
Subject: Cowlflaps anyone?
---------- Original Message ---------------------------------- From: "Kuehn, George" <George.Kuehn(at)ost.dot.gov> Date: Thu, 20 Jun 2002 08:52:38 -0400 > >Check out Greg Hale's RV-8 site. http://www.nwacaptain.com/ >I think Van also experimented with cowl flaps on the 8. > >-----Original Message----- >From: TwoAviators [mailto:TwoAviators(at)lexcominc.net] >To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: RV8-List: Cowlflaps anyone? > > > >Has anyone put cowl flaps on their RV? I feel the design is so clean under >the airplane that there is little vacuum created to assist the cooling of >the high pressure above the engine. > >Am I nuts? Seems cowl flaps though something else to deal with, might be a >simple way to get more 'low pressure' in the lower section of the cowling, >might especially help in climb where speeds are slower. > >Well what do ya think? > > >_- =================================================================== ==== of >_- =================================================================== ==== messages. members. >_- =================================================================== ==== list >_- =================================================================== ==== > >Check with Vans. They had an RV with cowl flaps at Oshkosh last year. I think that it was the one that had the fancy engine control system installed. Boyd Seal Flying RV6; second offender buildin RV8> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 26, 2002
From: Jim Bean <jim-bean(at)att.net>
Subject: Van's ammeter FYI
hi listers, I found out the hard way, and by good luck, that what seems to be the logical way to wire up this meter dosn't work. I am using the main bus/essential bus scheme promoted by Bob Nuckolls. The two busses are connected by a big diode. These are electronic gauges and get a power and ground in addition to the sense pin(s). It seems logical to power the gauges, including the ammeter, from the essential bus but this dosn't work for the ammeter, the meter will show a huge discharge. Moving the ammeter power lead to the main bus will fix it. I think that the problem is that the 1 volt drop across the diode causes the sense pins to be at a higher voltage than the power source which boggles the circuit. Jim Bean ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 27, 2002
From: Todd Lattimer <todd(at)lis.net.au>
Subject: selling my kit
Hi All, Sadly I'm thinking of selling my kit as i just don't have any time to work on it anymore. I have the wing kit and the empenage kit. Would anyone have an idea of what i could reasonably expect to get for it, keeping in mind im living in Australia (if that makes and differance) cheers Todd ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 27, 2002
From: jollyd <jollyd(at)ipns.com>
Subject: RV8A for sale
beautiful RV8A..0320, 160hp, 0smoh...C/S prop...radio. transpndr...rear seat rudder peds..painted, plus upholstry..99..95% completed..just $61,500.00...reason for selling....not enough time in the day...503-678-3343...located, oregon..<<>> ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: aft bulkhead misalignment
From: "jonweisw(at)rcn.com" <jonweisw(at)rcn.com>
Date: Jun 27, 2002
Dear List- I had the first hint of trouble when I was drilling the bottom skins to the bulkheads. All the skins aligned perfectly except the F-824-R, which is the side skin on the right. It seemed that the holes were approximately 3/8" aft of the centerline of BH 811 and 812 (and to a smaller extent F810). In order to maintain good edge distance and keep the centerline under the holes, I needed to do a fair amount of maneuvering of f-810/811/812 just prior to drilling. I now have the fuse out of the jig and have drilled the aft deck on. To keep the main longerons level, this required a lateral/downward pressure, but was accomplished to within 0.4deg of the level measurement taken midbody of the fuse. What I am left with now is an F-812 with the top and aft surface out of alignment with the aft surface of the f819 aft deck. The surface protrudes 3/8" aft on the left (yes, *left* - even though the drilling problem was on the right). Also, in order to fit the deck on, I had to widen the notches for the f811 bars (the horns that hold the HS). The horns now seem to be somewhat out of alignment with each other. While this does not affect construction at this time, I can foresee the problems in the future, and see my options as the following: 1) plan on using tapered shims when mounting the hs and the vs. I would expect to have to use larger bolts as well, and will probably need a fairly thick shim, especially for the VS to sit properly. 2) Drill out and replace the f812 BH. The problem with this is that I would need to do something to *extend* the flange on the one of the side to make proper edge distance. Also, since this BH has two flanges, and the holes are already drilled into the skin, this seems like an impossible task. 3) start the fuse over (please tell me I dont need to do this...) I would appreciate ANY words of wisdom on this. Has anyone had anything close to this problem? What was the solution? Thanks, Jonathan Weiswasser RV-8, fuselage ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 27, 2002
From: jollyd <jollyd(at)ipns.com>
Subject: Re: aft bulkhead misalignment
to do the job "right"..first measure the jig..and check it for alignment...I suspect something is out....then put the fuse back into the jig, and see where the BIG mistakes are...you might be surprised....then proceed...otherwise you will have to "live" with this on your mind for a long while..OR call Van's and ask what to do...good luck.. "jonweisw(at)rcn.com" wrote: > > Dear List- > > I had the first hint of trouble when I was drilling the bottom skins to the bulkheads. All the skins aligned perfectly except the F-824-R, which is the side skin on the right. It seemed that the holes were approximately 3/8" aft of the centerline of BH 811 and 812 (and to a smaller extent F810). In order to maintain good edge distance and keep the centerline under the holes, I needed to do a fair amount of maneuvering of f-810/811/812 just prior to drilling. > > I now have the fuse out of the jig and have drilled the aft deck on. To keep the main longerons level, this required a lateral/downward pressure, but was accomplished to within 0.4deg of the level measurement taken midbody of the fuse. What I am left with now is an F-812 with the top and aft surface out of alignment with the aft surface of the f819 aft deck. The surface protrudes 3/8" aft on the left (yes, *left* - even though the drilling problem was on the right). Also, in order to fit the deck on, I had to widen the notches for the f811 bars (the horns that hold the HS). The horns now seem to be somewhat out of alignment with each other. While this does not affect construction at this time, I can foresee the problems in the future, and see my options as the following: > > 1) plan on using tapered shims when mounting the hs and the vs. I would expect to have to use larger bolts as well, and will probably need a fairly thick shim, especially for the VS to sit properly. > > 2) Drill out and replace the f812 BH. The problem with this is that I would need to do something to *extend* the flange on the one of the side to make proper edge distance. Also, since this BH has two flanges, and the holes are already drilled into the skin, this seems like an impossible task. > > 3) start the fuse over (please tell me I dont need to do this...) > > I would appreciate ANY words of wisdom on this. Has anyone had anything close to this problem? What was the solution? > > Thanks, > Jonathan Weiswasser > RV-8, fuselage > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 27, 2002
From: Scott Bilinski <bilinski(at)qcpi.com>
Subject: Re: aft bulkhead misalignment
I am having trouble picturing this even though I am a week away from where you are right now in the build process. Do you have a digital camera and can post some pictures? Other than that I recommend visiting other builders or finished airplanes if at all possible. Also call Vans. I am at the local airport every weekend watching the building of 2 8's plus one finished and flying. This has saved me many headaches and I highly recommend it even though it might be a long drive. > >Dear List- > >I had the first hint of trouble when I was drilling the bottom skins to the >bulkheads. All the skins aligned perfectly except the F-824-R, which is the >side skin on the right. It seemed that the holes were approximately 3/8" aft >of the centerline of BH 811 and 812 (and to a smaller extent F810). In order >to maintain good edge distance and keep the centerline under the holes, I >needed to do a fair amount of maneuvering of f-810/811/812 just prior to >drilling. > >I now have the fuse out of the jig and have drilled the aft deck on. To keep >the main longerons level, this required a lateral/downward pressure, but was >accomplished to within 0.4deg of the level measurement taken midbody of the >fuse. What I am left with now is an F-812 with the top and aft surface out >of alignment with the aft surface of the f819 aft deck. The surface >protrudes 3/8" aft on the left (yes, *left* - even though the drilling >problem was on the right). Also, in order to fit the deck on, I had to widen >the notches for the f811 bars (the horns that hold the HS). The horns now >seem to be somewhat out of alignment with each other. While this does not >affect construction at this time, I can foresee the problems in the future, >and see my options as the following: > >1) plan on using tapered shims when mounting the hs and the vs. I would >expect to have to use larger bolts as well, and will probably need a fairly >thick shim, especially for the VS to sit properly. > >2) Drill out and replace the f812 BH. The problem with this is that I would >need to do something to *extend* the flange on the one of the side to make >proper edge distance. Also, since this BH has two flanges, and the holes are >already drilled into the skin, this seems like an impossible task. > >3) start the fuse over (please tell me I dont need to do this...) > >I would appreciate ANY words of wisdom on this. Has anyone had anything >close to this problem? What was the solution? > >Thanks, >Jonathan Weiswasser >RV-8, fuselage > > Scott Bilinski Eng dept 8220 Phone (858) 657-2536 Pager (858) 502-5190 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 27, 2002
From: Roger Crandell <rwc(at)swcp.com>
Subject: Autopilot for RV6A
I am seeking opinions on two-axis autopilots (roll & pitch) for an RV6A. I have looked at the S-Tec and TruTrak systems. Both are costly. Are there other two-axis autopilots which are less expensive and work well? I have also looked at the Navaid which is a single axis (roll) unit. It is reasonably priced for single axis unit. Does anyone have experience with the EZ-Trim pitch control unit? Perhaps it could be used with the Navaid to give 2 axis functionality? Roger Crandell ________________________________________________________________________________
From: N188rv(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 28, 2002
Subject: Re: Autopilot for RV6A
I have S Tech in my RV8. I love it. Provides a backup gyro in case you lose your vacum system. Stan ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 05, 2002
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Four New Email Lists At Matronics!!
Dear Listers, I've just added four new email Lists to the current lineup at Matronics. These new lists include: KRNet: krnet-List(at)matronics.com The RANS KR1 and KR2 Series Cub: cub-List(at)matronics.com The Piper J-3 Cub RV10: rv10-List(at)matronics.com The New 4-place RV from Van's! Europa: europa(at)matronics.com The Slick European Composite All the usual features are available with the new Lists including the search engine, archive download, 7-day List browse, and PhotoShare! To sign up for any or all of the new lists, please go to the List Subscription page and put in your email address and select the Lists of your choice. The URL for the Subscription page is: http://www.matronics.com/subscibe Don't forget that its your posts that generate traffic on the respective Lists! Post an introduction and a description of your project or dreams! Best regards, Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Admin. Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551 925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 05, 2002
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: [With Good URL This Time!] Four New Email Lists At Matronics!!
[Typo in the subscribe page URL last time - SORRY! -Matt] Dear Listers, I've just added four new email Lists to the current lineup at Matronics. These new lists include: KRNet: krnet-List(at)matronics.com The RANS KR1 and KR2 Series Cub: cub-List(at)matronics.com The Piper J-3 Cub RV10: rv10-List(at)matronics.com The New 4-place RV from Van's! Europa: europa(at)matronics.com The Slick European Composite All the usual features are available with the new Lists including the search engine, archive download, 7-day List browse, and PhotoShare! To sign up for any or all of the new lists, please go to the List Subscription page and put in your email address and select the Lists of your choice. The URL for the Subscription page is: http://www.matronics.com/subscribe Don't forget that its your posts that generate traffic on the respective Lists! Post an introduction and a description of your project or dreams! Best regards, Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Admin. Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551 925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 06, 2002
From: Kevin Horton <khorto1537(at)rogers.com>
Subject: spreadsheet to convert airspeeds
Someone asked awhile back if there was a spreadsheet to convert between IAS and TAS. It seemed that there wasn't one online, so I finally sat down and cranked one out. It is an Excel spreadsheet, zipped, found at: http://members.rogers.com/khorton/rvlinks/asi.zip It was produced fairly quickly, so I'm looking for any comments on format, etc. Kevin Horton ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 07, 2002
Subject: [ Patty Gillies ] : New Email List Photo Share Available!
From: Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com>
A new Email List Photo Share is available: Poster: Patty Gillies Subject: Fuel Selector Plate (labeling) http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/gillies-patty@sc.edu.07.07.2002/index.html -------------------------------------------- o EMAIL LIST PHOTO SHARE Share your files and photos with other List members simply by emailing the files to: pictures(at)matronics.com Please view the typical Share above and include the Description Text Fields as shown along with your submission of files and photos. o Main Photo Share Index: http://www.matronics.com/photoshare -------------------------------------------- ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 08, 2002
From: Don McNamara <N8RV(at)gte.net>
Subject: Oshkosh Meetings
Hi, gang -- For those of you new to the RV-8 community, we've had meetings each year at Oshkosh of RV-8/8a builders -- and anyone else interested -- a couple of times during the convention. We meet each other, put faces with the names we've read about over the last few months and years, swap lies and tips, and generally start the day with some new friendships. The meetings are not exclusive to RV-8/8a builders, and are open to anyone with an interest in meeting other RV-8 builders. The gatherings are informal, and you're required to supply your own coffee and doughnuts (since we can't seem to count on Bob Dimeo to remember to bring them!), and have been held on Thursday and Sunday mornings under a tree in the Theater in the Woods at around 9:00. I don't mind hosting the meetings again, since there's not much to it other than to bring a few old Sharpies and some nametags (yes, you have to wear a name tag). However, if anybody out there has more grandiose ideas or wants to take the bull by the horns and become the new "moderator", let me know. However it works out, it's a great time to meet those we've come to know online and shake a few friendly hands. Let me know if I should plan meetings or leave it up to someone else. --Don McNamara N8RV ________________________________________________________________________________
From: LClark6372(at)aol.com
Date: Jul 09, 2002
Subject: Re: RV8-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 07/07/02
any one tried the ready made buss bar systems such as the exp2 ? jim clark rv8 finishing kit napa ca ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 11, 2002
From: Don McNamara <N8RV(at)gte.net>
Subject: Oshkosh RV-8 Builders Meetings
Having heard nothing to the contrary, here is the OFFICIAL ANNOUNCEMENT (drum roll, please... ) An informal gathering of RV-8/8a builders, pilots and enthusiasts will be held in the trees behind the Theater in the Woods at Oshkosh on Thursday morning, July 25th at 9:00. Additionally, another gathering will occur on Sunday morning, July 28th, also at 9:00. I realize that these times may not work for everyone, but it should be convenient for those who can only stay for the first few days of the Convention, as well as the die hards. Just wander toward the trees behind the Theater and look for a group of people telling stories -- usually fabrications. I'll have nametags and Sharpies (no, not gifts -- just for writing your names on the tags!). You're on your own for coffee and doughnuts, unless some benevolent soul wishes to take on that responsibility. Here's hoping to see LOTS of you under the trees! Each year we've had anywhere from 10-20 builders and wannabes gather, and I know it's been fun to finally put faces with the names of those whom we've come to know and trust online over the years. See you there! -- Don McNamara N8RV ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 12, 2002
From: Kevin Horton <khorto1537(at)rogers.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: spreadsheet to convert airspeeds
Arrgh! That's what I get for cutting and pasting too late at night. The correct link for the airspeed conversion spreadsheet is: http://members.rogers.com/khorton/rvlinks/airspeed.zip I found the formula I needed to be able to convert from altitude and altimeter setting to pressure altitude, so I'll update the spreadsheet soon. We're getting ready to head to a football game, so I can't do it tonight. There is lots more useful stuff on my Flight Test Links page: http://members.rogers.com/khorton/ftlinks.html Kevin >--> RV-List message posted by: Ken Harrill > > >Kevin, > >Thanks for your help. The spreadsheet is exactly what I was looking for. >It allows much more accuracy than the E6-B. >some cases it may be useful to be able to input barometric pressure and >altitude rather than pressure altitude. > >Note: The link below is incorrect. I went to your website and found the >correct one. > >Ken Harrill >RV-6, 32 hours. > >--> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton > >Someone asked awhile back if there was a spreadsheet to convert >between IAS and TAS. It seemed that there wasn't one online, so I >finally sat down and cranked one out. It is an Excel spreadsheet, >zipped, found at: > >http://members.rogers.com/khorton/rvlinks/asi.zip > >It was produced fairly quickly, so I'm looking for any comments on format, >etc. > >Kevin Horton > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 12, 2002
Subject: [ Bob Paulovich ] : New Email List Photo Share Available!
From: Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com>
A new Email List Photo Share is available: Poster: Bob Paulovich Subject: Fatal RV Crash http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/Bobpaulo@aol.com.07.12.2002/index.html -------------------------------------------- o EMAIL LIST PHOTO SHARE Share your files and photos with other List members simply by emailing the files to: pictures(at)matronics.com Please view the typical Share above and include the Description Text Fields as shown along with your submission of files and photos. o Main Photo Share Index: http://www.matronics.com/photoshare -------------------------------------------- ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 12, 2002
From: Scott Bilinski <bilinski(at)qcpi.com>
Subject: Fuse jig for RV-8
I have a good fuse jig which has now built 2 fuse's. It has been cut in half for easy moving and set up to be bolted back together. it will eaisly fit into the back of a pickup. I am located in San Diego, anyone interested let me know. Scott Bilinski Eng dept 8220 Phone (858) 657-2536 Pager (858) 502-5190 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Robert J. Dean" <deanrobertj(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Rivet call out for Horizontal Stabilizer
Date: Jul 14, 2002
I am just started to rivet together the skeleton for the horizontal stabilizer. Specifically, I am riveting the Rear Spar Reimforcement Bar (HS-609PP) to the Rear Spar (HS-603PP). My plans call out for AN470AD4-6 for all rivets with certain exceptions for ribs, hinge brackets, etc. I put one rivet in with my rivet squeezer and it looked beautiful except for one small problem. The shop head did not protrude the minimum amount of 1/2 D. I put another rivet in(without driving it) and check the length of the rivet sticking out. It should be 1 1/2 D. It was just shy of this. I put a -7 in the hole and checked this and it met the minimum requirement of 1 1/2 D. I am going to call Van's tomorrow to see what is going on. Has anybody else had this problem? If so, how is it being handled? Thanks for the feedback. I really wanted to finish that part today and this question stopped me in my tracks. I had a good time anyway. Bob Dean ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 14, 2002
From: "Ed O'Connor" <EdwardOConnor(at)compuserve.com>
Subject: Rivet call out for Horizontal Stabilizer
Bob. As you progress you are going to find many instances where the called for rivit doesn't seem to be the correct size. This can be caused by variences in a dimple, how well the two parts mate to one another, How perpendicular the hole is to the surface or just variences in the rivit length or it may be just the wrong size. The important thing is to get a rivit gauge and start with the called for rivit and check the length. If it doesn't check out, then you may have to cut a longer rivet to the correct length or use a longer one that is correct. The drawings are not always correct. This is part of the learning curve in building the airplane. After a while, you can almost look at a rivit and tell if it is the correct length but I still measure often to recalibrate my eyeball. Don't be afraid to use a longer rivit if it is correct for your airplane. So get the set of rivit guages and I personally would get a good rivit cutter. I use the sliding bar type sold by Avery or Cleveland or Brown Tool. Keep on building Ed O'Connor RV-8 Fuselage and wings completed and waiting on finish kit. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 18, 2002
From: Don McNamara <N8RV(at)gte.net>
Subject: Oshkosh Meetings
LAST OFFICIAL NOTICE: I'm leaving for Oshkosh tomorrow, so this will serve as the last official invitation for all RV-8 and RV-8A builders, pilots, interested parties and gorgeous blondes to attend the informal gatherings in the Theater in the Woods on Thursday and Sunday mornings. OK, you gorgeous brunettes and redheads can come, too. Thursday, July 25th, 9:00am Sunday, July 28th, 9:00am I had every intention of making a really big, garish sign announcing our presence, but once again ran out of time. Heck, I can't even find the "HELLO, MY NAME IS ..." nametags that I've used lo these many years. I'll go out an buy some new ones today, but I may have to pass the hat. Hope to see a whole bunch of new faces this year! And I suppose a few of the older ones are unavoidable. : ) And, just in case anyone cares, I'm planning on camping in my usual spot, somewhere in or near 38th Street in Camp Scholler, right behind the First Aid building. That's intentional. I'll have a few extra cigars (cheap ones if I don't know you or like you) and quite possibly some libations. You'd be wise to bring your own if you're picky. See you at Oshkosh! --Don McNamara N8RV ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 29, 2002
From: Scott Bilinski <bilinski(at)qcpi.com>
Subject: Will engine fit?
I have ordered a I0-360-B1B with Airflow Perf FI ........anyone know if it will fit in a 8a? Vans thinks it will be ok but are not 100% sure. It has a Superior Air Parts sump if that helps. Scott Bilinski Eng dept 8220 Phone (858) 657-2536 Pager (858) 502-5190 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 29, 2002
From: jollyd <jollyd(at)ipns.com>
Subject: Re: Will engine fit?
what is the part number of the sump?...if the inlet hole is in the front it will fit..but to be sure I will need the part number..the engine will fit anyway, but the sump may not fit because of the nose wheel...jolly in aurora, or. Scott Bilinski wrote: > > I have ordered a I0-360-B1B with Airflow Perf FI ........anyone know if it > will fit in a 8a? Vans thinks it will be ok but are not 100% sure. It has a > Superior Air Parts sump if that helps. > > Scott Bilinski > Eng dept 8220 > Phone (858) 657-2536 > Pager (858) 502-5190 > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 29, 2002
From: Scott Bilinski <bilinski(at)qcpi.com>
Subject: Re: Will engine fit?
I will have to wait until Bart of Aero Sport Power gets back to find the part number of the sump. All I know is that the sump is the standard Superior Air Parts XP-360 engine sump. Does this help? > >what is the part number of the sump?...if the inlet hole is in the front it >will fit..but to be sure I will need the part number..the engine will fit >anyway, but the sump may not fit because of the nose wheel...jolly in aurora, >or. > >Scott Bilinski wrote: > >> >> I have ordered a I0-360-B1B with Airflow Perf FI ........anyone know if it >> will fit in a 8a? Vans thinks it will be ok but are not 100% sure. It has a >> Superior Air Parts sump if that helps. >> >> Scott Bilinski >> Eng dept 8220 >> Phone (858) 657-2536 >> Pager (858) 502-5190 >> > > Scott Bilinski Eng dept 8220 Phone (858) 657-2536 Pager (858) 502-5190 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: DavidAWilks(at)aol.com
Date: Jul 30, 2002
Subject: Re: RV8-List Digest: 3 Msgs - 07/29/02
remove ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 30, 2002
From: Kevin Horton <khorto1537(at)rogers.com>
Subject: Navaid wing leveler servo friction
I purchased a Navaid wing leveler for my RV-8, and have finally started studying it in preparation for mounting it. The servo has a distressingly large amount of breakout friction before the arm can be moved with no power on it (simulating hand flying the aircraft, with the wing leveler OFF). Furthermore, the amount of breakout friction varies quite a bit depending on the angle of the arm before I start to move it. I'm sure there is something wrong with my servo. There is no way I'm putting it in my aircraft like it is now. Before I contact Navaid, I hope to get an idea of how much friction I should expect my servo to have. I used two different types of scale to attempt to quantify the amount of friction I have. I have no idea how accurate either scale is, but the two scales give grossly similar results, which is somewhat comforting. One pan scale (sort of like a postal scale) with a piece of wood between the servo arm and the pan showed that a force at the end of the arm of 2.5 to 3 lb was required to break the servo free and start the arm moving. This scale was a PITA to use, so I'm not confident of the upper end of this range. A fish scale (which was easier to use) showed 2.2 to 5.5 lb at the end of the arm was required, depending on the angle of the arm. This fits well with the large variations in breakout friction that I sense when I move the arm with my fingers. So, if anyone has their Navaid servo out of the aircraft, I would be interested in how much force it takes to make the arm start to move. -- Kevin Horton RV-8 (fibreglas, yuck) Ottawa, Canada http://members.rogers.com/khorton/rv8.html ________________________________________________________________________________
From: terje.kobro(at)platou.com
Subject: Will engine fit?
Date: Jul 31, 2002
fits in rv-8- but we have main intake verical underneath so had to make a small " scoope " in cowling underneath since fuel line did touch cowling- otherwise no problem > -----Original Message----- > From: Scott Bilinski [mailto:bilinski(at)qcpi.com] > Sent: 29. juli 2002 18:12 > To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV8-List: Will engine fit? > > > > I have ordered a I0-360-B1B with Airflow Perf FI > ........anyone know if it > will fit in a 8a? Vans thinks it will be ok but are not 100% > sure. It has a > Superior Air Parts sump if that helps. > > > Scott Bilinski > Eng dept 8220 > Phone (858) 657-2536 > Pager (858) 502-5190 > > > =========== > =========== > =========== > =========== > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 31, 2002
From: Kevin Horton <khorto1537(at)rogers.com>
Subject: Navaid wing leveler servo friction followup
Thanks to all the public and private responses to my request for info. I phoned Navaid this afternoon, and they agreed that something was wrong with my servo. I'm sending it back so they can sort it out. I'll update the lists with my positive or negative experience with their service after I get the servo back. Take care, -- Kevin Horton RV-8 (fibreglas, yuck) Ottawa, Canada http://members.rogers.com/khorton/rv8.html ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jack Textor" <jack(at)iajobs.com>
Subject: RV8 meeting in 2003
Date: Aug 01, 2002
Hello fellow 8 drivers and builders, Had a thought regarding next years get-togethers at OSH. I missed the Sunday meeting because we planned a Sunday AM departure from the campgrounds. In order to gain access to the Theater in the woods a Sunday ticket would have to be purchased. A suggestion would be to meet instead at the shaded "flag" area just east of the Red Barn Store. This way, those departing on the day of the meeting could join in the fun with out purchase of another ticket. Just a thought. Thanks, Jack Textor RV8 DSM ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 01, 2002
From: Don McNamara <N8RV(at)gte.net>
Subject: Oshkosh Builders' Meetings Recap
We had a great turnout for the 2002 AirVulture RV-8 Builders' Meeting on Thursday morning. I never counted heads, but I would estimate that a couple dozen builders showed up to swap lies and shake hands. I tried to make it around the group and welcome everyone, but probably missed a few. It was great to see some familiar faces, and even better to see new ones! For once, we actually had an ABUNDANCE of doughnuts! Not only did Nate provide us with a couple of BIG boxes of fancy local fare, but Bob Dimeo finally came through with a couple of boxes of doughnuts that I think he originally purchased about three years ago. People were taking them to use as wheel chocks. Someone else (I didn't catch the name, sorry) showed up with some doughnuts also, and I don't think we had enough hungry people to even crack those boxes open. Thanks, all, for your generosity and hospitality. I made the announcement to the gathered builders that, after seven long years of building, I had finally decided which engine I was going to buy for my plane. The anticipation of the collective group was palpable, and you could hear a pin drop as the anticipation built ... When I announced my decision, the group was pretty evenly divided between contented smiles of concurrence and lowered heads, shaking slowly from side to side in disappointment. After a few minutes, a few of my fellow builders pulled me aside and pointed out the error of my ways. >sigh< I tell this tale to point out the tremendous value of this group, whether online or in person, and that being in the collective experience and wisdom of its individuals. The vast majority of you have already forgotten more about planes than I'll ever know, and are all eager and willing to share your treasure troves with other builders. Where else can we, as builders, find that kind of support and information? So, with the help of my comrades, I've abandoned my decision to buy a new Lycosaur from Van's. I'm back to engineering the installation of a surplus General Electric F110-GE-100/129 lifted from an F-16. If anyone in this vast sea of experience and knowledge can help me figure out how to insulate my butt from this thing and keep my tailwheel from melting when I light the blower, please e-mail me. Just kidding. Thanks again to all who attended the Thursday meeting. I hope we can continue this tradition in some form each year. The Sunday morning meeting was ... uh ... less well attended. The conversation went like this: "Mornin', Kevin." "Mornin', Don." Next year, considering that AirVulture has been moving to earlier dates, maybe having the first meeting on Tuesday or Wednesday, and the second one on Saturday might be better. That way, we won't have to yell to be heard over the church service that was going on simultaneously (those people didn't appreciate our contributions, did they, Kevin?) We'll chat about it next year. Keep pounding rivets, everyone! -- Don McNamara N8RV ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "jonweisw(at)rcn.com" <jonweisw(at)rcn.com>
Subject: Cabin consols a la Hefel
Date: Aug 01, 2002
Does anyone have a technical description of the 'Hefel' control consoles? In particular, the consoles that house the throttle on the left and the switches on the right that angle up and join the control panel. Even Lyle Hefel's e-mail address would help. Jon Weiswasser RV-8 Fuselage ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "jonweisw(at)rcn.com" <jonweisw(at)rcn.com>
Subject: Cabin consols a la Hefel
Date: Aug 01, 2002
Does anyone have a technical description of the 'Hefel' control consoles? In particular, the consoles that house the throttle on the left and the switches on the right that angle up and join the control panel. Even Lyle Hefel's e-mail address would help. Jon Weiswasser RV-8 Fuselage ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: E-714 trimming
Date: Aug 01, 2002
From: "Kendall R. Simmons" <ken(at)truckstop.com>
In the 2nd 2002 issue of the RVator it lists a plans change for trimming the E-714 counterweight for the right elevator. Is it a good idea to trim this now or wait until later? I'm just a little concerned about trimming too much even though it would be much more convenient to do the bulk of the trimming now. Also, what's the best method to trim this? Can I just run it through my band saw? Ken 8-Empennage ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Sally and George" <aeronut58(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: E-714 trimming
Date: Aug 02, 2002
Ken: Don't know about the new empennage kits, but I used a large drill (3/8",I think) on my lead weights, drilling a lot of holes part way through the block until I got the balance right. I put the drilled side outboard, so the sloppy looking holes don't show. George N888GK Now 66 trouble free hours. >From: "Kendall R. Simmons" <ken(at)truckstop.com> >Reply-To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com >To: >Subject: RV8-List: E-714 trimming >Date: Thu, 1 Aug 2002 15:33:09 -0600 > > >In the 2nd 2002 issue of the RVator it lists a plans change for >trimming the E-714 counterweight for the right elevator. Is it a good >idea to trim this now or wait until later? I'm just a little >concerned about trimming too much even though it would be much more >convenient to do the bulk of the trimming now. Also, what's the best >method to trim this? Can I just run it through my band saw? > >Ken >8-Empennage > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 02, 2002
From: Ed OConnor <EdwardOConnor(at)compuserve.com>
Subject: Cabin consols a la Hefel
I have modified my consoles like Lyl's but I did it using just pictures of from internet sites and my own engineering. I also used Van's upgraded throttle and moved it back on to the wing bulkhead. If you desire, I'll send you some pictures. Lyl doesn't have an E-Mail but You can call him. Search the archives with the search engine and you will find Lyl's number in one of the msg. Iwoulld use his name as a key word. I'm on road right now and don't have his number with me. Ed OConnor RV-8 N366RV. Finish Kit recieved. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 07, 2002
From: Bill Marvel <bmarvel(at)cox.net>
Subject: Navaid autopilot
Am looking for photos/drawings, etc. of the Navaid autopilot system in an 8 or 8A. Anyone know of a web site that contains this info? Did not find anything in the archives nor does Navaid have any information of their own. Bill Marvel -- ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randy Lervold" <randy@rv-8.com>
Subject: Re: Navaid autopilot
Date: Aug 07, 2002
> Am looking for photos/drawings, etc. of the Navaid autopilot system in > an 8 or 8A. Anyone know of a web site that contains this info? Did not > find anything in the archives nor does Navaid have any information of > their own. > > Bill Marvel Bill, Try this... http://www.rv-8.com/IdeasProducts.htm Randy Lervold RV-8, 234 hrs. www.rv-8.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 09, 2002
From: Kevin Horton <khorto1537(at)rogers.com>
Subject: Filling pin holes in West Systems expoxy
I'm beavering away doing fibreglas work, using the West Systems stuff. I had hoped to use the West Systems 410 Microlight filler to fill pinholes, but it is not doing as good a job as I hoped. Each pass fills some of the pin holes, but after sanding I see that there are still a few left, so I do another coat and sand again, etc. So, I'm looking for other options. I've searched the various list archives, and many other products get mentioned, but there never seems to be enough info to figure out whether any given product addresses all my needs. I'm looking for recommendations for a product to fill pin holes. I'm looking for the following characteristics: 1. compatible with West Systems epoxy, 2. reasonably priced, 3. does not need to be sprayed (I only have a zip gun, plus I don't want the mess and hassle of spraying), 4. can be sanded relatively quickly (overnight cure, or faster) 5. can be used in small batches (the West Systems pumps give a minimum batch size, which means a lot of wastage). 6. not too heavy Are there any products that meet all these criteria? If not, which products come the closest to what I want? Thanks, -- Kevin Horton RV-8 (fibreglas, yuck) Ottawa, Canada http://members.rogers.com/khorton/rv8.html ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Rv8don(at)aol.com
Date: Aug 09, 2002
Subject: Re: Filling pin holes in West Systems expoxy
Kevin, UV Smooth Prime was recommended to me by couple of local plastic airplane builders (no reflection on thier integrity!). It's water soluble, cleans up easily and you can roll or spray it on. They all recommended rolling it for the small areas we have to do. I just tried it on my empennage intesection fairing this morning and will report back. -Don RV8 NJ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 09, 2002
From: Bill Marvel <bmarvel(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Filling pin holes in West Systems expoxy
Kevin: Did you try the method discussed in the RVator? Although this was mentioned for sealing the inside of the cowl, I don't know why it would not work elsewhere. They just diluted the resin mix 50/50 with acetone and brushed it on. I have not reached that point yet, but the processis written up in the last issue of the magazine. Bill Marvel Kevin Horton wrote: > --> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton > > I'm beavering away doing fibreglas work, using the West Systems > stuff. I had hoped to use the West Systems 410 Microlight filler to > fill pinholes, but it is not doing as good a job as I hoped. Each > pass fills some of the pin holes, but after sanding I see that there > are still a few left, so I do another coat and sand again, etc. > > So, I'm looking for other options. I've searched the various list > archives, and many other products get mentioned, but there never > seems to be enough info to figure out whether any given product > addresses all my needs. > > I'm looking for recommendations for a product to fill pin holes. I'm > looking for the following characteristics: > > 1. compatible with West Systems epoxy, > 2. reasonably priced, > 3. does not need to be sprayed (I only have a zip gun, plus I don't > want the mess and hassle of spraying), > 4. can be sanded relatively quickly (overnight cure, or faster) > 5. can be used in small batches (the West Systems pumps give a > minimum batch size, which means a lot of wastage). > 6. not too heavy > > Are there any products that meet all these criteria? If not, which > products come the closest to what I want? > > Thanks, > -- > Kevin Horton RV-8 (fibreglas, yuck) > Ottawa, Canada > http://members.rogers.com/khorton/rv8.html > -- Bill Marvel Home/office 310 832 7617 P.O. Box 784 Cell 310 293 2013 San Pedro, CA 90733 Fax 310 832 5334 One good deed beats 100 good intentions... ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 09, 2002
From: Bill Marvel <bmarvel(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Filling pin holes in West Systems expoxy
Keven: Did you try the method discussed in the RVator? Although this was mentioned for sealing the inside of the cowl, I don't know why it would not work elsewhere. They just diluted the resin mix 50/50 with acetone and brushed it on. I have not reached that point yet, but the process is written up in the last issue of the magazine. Bill Marvel Kevin Horton wrote: > --> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton > > I'm beavering away doing fibreglas work, using the West Systems > stuff. I had hoped to use the West Systems 410 Microlight filler to > fill pinholes, but it is not doing as good a job as I hoped. Each > pass fills some of the pin holes, but after sanding I see that there > are still a few left, so I do another coat and sand again, etc. > > So, I'm looking for other options. I've searched the various list > archives, and many other products get mentioned, but there never > seems to be enough info to figure out whether any given product > addresses all my needs. > > I'm looking for recommendations for a product to fill pin holes. I'm > looking for the following characteristics: > > 1. compatible with West Systems epoxy, > 2. reasonably priced, > 3. does not need to be sprayed (I only have a zip gun, plus I don't > want the mess and hassle of spraying), > 4. can be sanded relatively quickly (overnight cure, or faster) > 5. can be used in small batches (the West Systems pumps give a > minimum batch size, which means a lot of wastage). > 6. not too heavy > > Are there any products that meet all these criteria? If not, which > products come the closest to what I want? > > Thanks, > -- > Kevin Horton RV-8 (fibreglas, yuck) > Ottawa, Canada > http://members.rogers.com/khorton/rv8.html > -- Bill Marvel Home/office 310 832 7617 P.O. Box 784 Cell 310 293 2013 San Pedro, CA 90733 Fax 310 832 5334 One good deed beats 100 good intentions... ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 09, 2002
From: Bill Marvel <bmarvel(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Filling pin holes in West Systems expoxy
Kevin: Forgot to mention: > > 5. can be used in small batches (the West Systems pumps give a > minimum batch size, which means a lot of wastage). I never did get the West Systems pump. I just use the 5 to 1 volumes with any convenient container. In fact, I bought a set of measuring spoons and use that for very small quantities while still keeping the 5 to 1 ratio. You can mix as little or as much as you want and it seems very tolerant of minor ratio variations. Bill Marvel RV8A flying ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Sally and George" <aeronut58(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Filling pin holes in West Systems expoxy
Date: Aug 09, 2002
Kevin: Use UV Smooth Prime. It meets all of your listed objectives. Available from Aircraft Spruce, among others. Much more effective than West Systems epoxy with microballoons, but you'll still need multiple applications to get the job done. George N888GK Now 70+ hours >From: Kevin Horton <khorto1537(at)rogers.com> >Reply-To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com >To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com, rv8list(at)yahoogroups.com >Subject: RV8-List: Filling pin holes in West Systems expoxy >Date: Fri, 9 Aug 2002 07:48:51 -0400 > > >I'm beavering away doing fibreglas work, using the West Systems >stuff. I had hoped to use the West Systems 410 Microlight filler to >fill pinholes, but it is not doing as good a job as I hoped. Each >pass fills some of the pin holes, but after sanding I see that there >are still a few left, so I do another coat and sand again, etc. > >So, I'm looking for other options. I've searched the various list >archives, and many other products get mentioned, but there never >seems to be enough info to figure out whether any given product >addresses all my needs. > >I'm looking for recommendations for a product to fill pin holes. I'm >looking for the following characteristics: > >1. compatible with West Systems epoxy, >2. reasonably priced, >3. does not need to be sprayed (I only have a zip gun, plus I don't >want the mess and hassle of spraying), >4. can be sanded relatively quickly (overnight cure, or faster) >5. can be used in small batches (the West Systems pumps give a >minimum batch size, which means a lot of wastage). >6. not too heavy > >Are there any products that meet all these criteria? If not, which >products come the closest to what I want? > >Thanks, >-- >Kevin Horton RV-8 (fibreglas, yuck) >Ottawa, Canada >http://members.rogers.com/khorton/rv8.html > > http://www.hotmail.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Craig Chipley" <craigchipley(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-8/8A
Date: Aug 09, 2002
Hello, I am looking for a short hop in a RV-8/8A. I live in St. Louis, MO. Thanks, Craig ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 09, 2002
From: jollyd <jollyd(at)ipns.com>
Subject: Re: RV-8/8A
so am I.. Craig Chipley wrote: > > Hello, I am looking for a short hop in a RV-8/8A. I live in St. Louis, MO. > Thanks, Craig > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Craig Chipley" <craigchipley(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV-8/8A
Date: Aug 09, 2002
Well, I guess I didn't do that very well. For a long time I have wanted to build. Finally time amd money allow me to. I have not yet had a ride in the plane of my dreams, the RV-8/8A. I would very much like to see what it is like before I get a lot of investment in. I will reimburse for any fuel/oil pilot time etc. Thanks, Craig Chipley St. Louis, Mo >From: "Craig Chipley" <craigchipley(at)hotmail.com> >Reply-To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com >To: RV8-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: RV8-List: RV-8/8A >Date: Fri, 09 Aug 2002 18:26:18 -0500 > > >Hello, I am looking for a short hop in a RV-8/8A. I live in St. Louis, MO. >Thanks, Craig > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 09, 2002
From: Bill Marvel <bmarvel(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: RV-8/8A
Craig: Too bad I live in L.A. or I would take you up tomorrow. FYI I have owned a Grumman Tiger for 25 years, and still do. When I finally got the bug to build, I picked an RV-8A and bought the QB version without having flown in any RV. I bought the kit at Vans and they couldn't believe I didn't even want a demo ride first. They talked me into it after I paid for the airplane, but I didn't need the motivation. That said, I now have 83 hours on my 8A and have flown to KC and back, to NE and back and we're heading for MA next week. Send me your phone number and if I am anywhere near STL (wx pending) I'll take you up. What airport is closest? Also, I will send you two articles I wrote for the local RV gang here in So. Cal. about these two trips. The airplane's performance is awesome and I continue to be amazed by it. When you read these, I think you'll just buy the plane and start banging rivets. I've had a lot of good fortune in my 56 years, but my wife and I building this airplane ranks right up there with the best of them. Cheers, Bill Marvel Craig Chipley wrote: > > Well, I guess I didn't do that very well. For a long time I have wanted to > build. Finally time amd money allow me to. I have not yet had a ride in the > plane of my dreams, the RV-8/8A. I would very much like to see what it is > like before I get a lot of investment in. I will reimburse for any fuel/oil > pilot time etc. Thanks, > > Craig Chipley > St. Louis, Mo > > >From: "Craig Chipley" <craigchipley(at)hotmail.com> > >Reply-To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com > >To: RV8-list(at)matronics.com > >Subject: RV8-List: RV-8/8A > >Date: Fri, 09 Aug 2002 18:26:18 -0500 > > > > > > > >Hello, I am looking for a short hop in a RV-8/8A. I live in St. Louis, MO. > >Thanks, Craig > > > > > -- Bill Marvel Home/office 310 832 7617 P.O. Box 784 Cell 310 293 2013 San Pedro, CA 90733 Fax 310 832 5334 One good deed beats 100 good intentions... ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 10, 2002
From: Kevin Horton <khorto1537(at)rogers.com>
Subject: Re: [rv8list] Filling pin holes in West Systems expoxy
Thanks to everyone who replied, on and off the lists. There were too many responses to reply individually. I'll order some UV Smoothprime. I'll move to fitting the spinner, prop and cowling while I'm waiting for it to arrive. If the Smoothprime still hasn't arrived, some folks gave me suggestions of other things I can try to beat those pin holes - thin the West Systems with acetone and roll it on to fill them. Or just use straight West Systems epoxy and a heat gun to decrease the viscosity. But, many, many people seemed to like the Smoothprime, so I'll give it a go. Besides, it gives me a wonderful excuse to defer fibreglas work for a week or two :) -- Kevin Horton RV-8 (fibreglas, yuck) Ottawa, Canada http://members.rogers.com/khorton/rv8.html ________________________________________________________________________________
From: N188rv(at)aol.com
Date: Aug 12, 2002
Subject: Re: RV-8/8A
Hi Craig, Come to Jef City. I will give you a ride in my RV-8. I have a RV-8a that is truly 90% finished. It is ready to wire and plumb. It has a IO-360 B1E and hartzell prop mounted on it. Both have 62 hours since factory new. A friend of mine got tired of building and decided to get out of aviation. I bought it from him. I will sell the complete package for $60,000. There are $59,800 worth of parts if you buy from Vans. All the riveting is finished. The canopy is installed. The top wings were made with a single piece of alumunium instead of the two pirces Van ships. The builder was a mechanical contractor all his life and knew how to work metal. Stan Mehrhoff ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 14, 2002
From: Scott Bilinski <bilinski(at)qcpi.com>
Subject: cockpit color
It is time to start thinking of cockpit color while every thing is accessible, and am having a hard time. Right now I might just go with the same color as the powder coated parts but I dont think that would look to good on a white with green trim airplane. Any suggestions? Scott Bilinski Eng dept 8220 Phone (858) 657-2536 Pager (858) 502-5190 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Sally and George" <aeronut58(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: cockpit color
Date: Aug 14, 2002
Scott: Cockpit color is a very personal thing, so you'll need to decide what you like best. Here's a couple of thoughts: I painted mine with epoxy in an off-white color (selected from a Sherwin Williams automobile paint catalog). I liked it initially and I still like it 70 hours later. I used their dulling agent to give it an eggshell finish (no glare in the cockpit). It's great for visibility and absence of glare, but the eggshell finish is more porous than plain epoxy...seems to get dirty faster than it ought to. I like the light color in the forward cockpit...it's a black hole down there when you've dropped something, and the light paint helps. Lots of guys are using a gray epoxy (looks like the color the Navy uses on most everything). It looks good and seems to go with most exterior and upholstery colors. Pick something YOU like and let it fly! George Kilishek RV-8 N888GK 70 trouble-free hours so far. >From: Scott Bilinski <bilinski(at)qcpi.com> >Reply-To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com >To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: RV8-List: cockpit color >Date: Wed, 14 Aug 2002 09:59:13 -0700 > > >It is time to start thinking of cockpit color while every thing is >accessible, and am having a hard time. Right now I might just go with the >same color as the powder coated parts but I dont think that would look to >good on a white with green trim airplane. Any suggestions? > > >Scott Bilinski >Eng dept 8220 >Phone (858) 657-2536 >Pager (858) 502-5190 > > MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 15, 2002
From: TwoAviators <TwoAviators(at)lexcominc.net>
Subject: Re: cockpit color
Scott, As most are saying, its a personal thing. In my case, not knowing what I would ultimtely do for a paint scheme, I decided to come up with something neutral, yet something really different. This is what I did, and I have gotten a zillion compliments on it. I primed the inside pieces with Zinc Chromate. I then did a three step process I invented. This may sound difficult but it was really easy. I sprayed the first coat of paint with Krylon Smoke Gray Gloss, before it dried I sprayed on Granite Faux (a textured paint I bought at Wal-Mart for about $7) and then waiting a few minutes, sprayed the clear coat (probably some kind of urethane) that sat next to it on the shelf (at Walmart). It gave me a textured looking finish, that was cheap, light, non-reflective, has been very durable, and hides even the rivet tails in the inside of the cockpit walls. I even did my instrument panel with it, and with the black contrasting instruments, it looks great. If you want any further specific info I will go look for the cans and send it to ya. IF you decide on this, let me know and I will give you further specific details how I made it work. Good Luck Dan Ward N417SN s/n 81243 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "RION BOURGEOIS" <rion(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: cockpit color
Date: Aug 15, 2002
A friend of mine painted his cockpit interior red, and calls his airplane "Bucket of Blood" and his name is BoB. Looked odd before he painted his airplane, but looks great with his early '60s Corvette red and white paint scheme. Don't paint it black unless you like flying in a sauna. Don't paint it pink unless you want to raise questions about your sexuality. Any other color should do. I went with a satin grey. Did you know that Van's paints their prototypes grey, and paint them while they are still upside down? Rion ----- Original Message ----- From: "Sally and George" <aeronut58(at)hotmail.com> Subject: RV-List: Re: RV8-List: cockpit color > --> RV-List message posted by: "Sally and George" > > Scott: > > Cockpit color is a very personal thing, so you'll need to decide what you > like best. Here's a couple of thoughts: > > I painted mine with epoxy in an off-white color (selected from a Sherwin > Williams automobile paint catalog). I liked it initially and I still like it > 70 hours later. I used their dulling agent to give it an eggshell finish > (no glare in the cockpit). It's great for visibility and absence of glare, > but the eggshell finish is more porous than plain epoxy...seems to get dirty > faster than it ought to. I like the light color in the forward > cockpit...it's a black hole down there when you've dropped something, and > the light paint helps. Lots of guys are using a gray epoxy (looks like the > color the Navy uses on most everything). It looks good and seems to go with > most exterior and upholstery colors. Pick something YOU like and let it > fly! > > George Kilishek > RV-8 N888GK > 70 trouble-free hours so far. > > > >From: Scott Bilinski <bilinski(at)qcpi.com> > >Reply-To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com > >To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com > >Subject: RV8-List: cockpit color > >Date: Wed, 14 Aug 2002 09:59:13 -0700 > > > > > >It is time to start thinking of cockpit color while every thing is > >accessible, and am having a hard time. Right now I might just go with the > >same color as the powder coated parts but I dont think that would look to > >good on a white with green trim airplane. Any suggestions? > > > > > >Scott Bilinski > >Eng dept 8220 > >Phone (858) 657-2536 > >Pager (858) 502-5190 > > > > > > > MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: > http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 15, 2002
From: glen j matejcek <aerobubba(at)compuserve.com>
Subject: cockpit color
I wrestled with the cockpit color issue also. While contemplating durability, unobtrusiveness, low reflectivity, and the ability to touch up easily, my eyes fell upon a rattle can of Hartzell grey propellor epoxy paint. Not as cheap as Krylon or rustoleum, but it meets all my requirements quite well. Just one opinion... Glen Matejcek rv-8 soon to be on gear ________________________________________________________________________________
From: PSILeD(at)aol.com
Date: Aug 15, 2002
Subject: Re: cockpit color
Dan, I am very interested in the process you have described. I would like the numbers of the paint and I will try it on some scrap to see the finished item. Thanks Paul LeDoux s/n 81375 N9NM reserved ________________________________________________________________________________
From: PSILeD(at)aol.com
Date: Aug 15, 2002
Subject: Re: cockpit color
oops, s/n is 81735, just got back from a trip and the brain is tired. Apologies to real 81375 Paul ________________________________________________________________________________
From: PSILeD(at)aol.com
Date: Aug 16, 2002
Subject: Re: cockpit color
Dan, Would like details on your scheme. Thanks, Paul ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 19, 2002
From: Kevin Horton <khorto1537(at)rogers.com>
Subject: Rudder light wire runs
I've got the combination strobe and nav light that mounts on the rudder bottom fairing on my RV-8. I'm interested in hearing about any ideas on where to run the wires through the VS rear spar. I had planned on bringing them through below the bottom hinge on the rudder, but I see that I would either have to run through the tail wheel mount, or put a hole in the hinge bracket. I don't like weakening either of those, so now I'm pondering bringing the wires out the front of the rudder, and then running them vertically up the rear side of the VS rear spar, way over at the right edge next to the fuselage skin. I would put a hole in the spar on the right side above the bottom hinge. Will this work? I still need to hang my rudder again and confirm that I've got enough clearance between the leading edge of the rudder and the VS rear spar when the rudder is hard left. Does anyone else have a better idea? Thanks, -- Kevin Horton RV-8 (fibreglas, yuck) Ottawa, Canada http://members.rogers.com/khorton/rv8.html ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 19, 2002
From: Kevin Horton <khorto1537(at)rogers.com>
Subject: Engine corrosion heads up
Here is a heads up that might save someone some heartache. I was ready to mount my Hartzell on my IO-360-A1B6 yesterday, so I pulled the plastic cover off the front end of the crankshaft. I peered inside, and to my horror, I saw some corrosion (read rust) on the inside diameter of the crankshaft. Major depression. Bad night sleeping with nightmares of needing a new crank :( I called Bart Lalonde today to talk to him. He told me that he has seen this before, and that it is easy to deal with. The IO-360-A series has a lot more metal in the crank in this area than the O-320 and O-360 engines, so there is a much more margin on how much metal can be removed to get the rust out. He suggested to put some tape on the slot in the piece of tube where the oil comes in, fabricate some sort of mandrel with a slot in it to hold a piece of scotchbrite pad. Use the scotchbrite to remove the rust. Clean out the debris, inspect for pits (bad thing), remove the tape from that oil tube and spray a bunch of LPS-3 over the whole area to protect it. The LPS-3 will dissolve in the hot oil once we run the engine. So, I suggest that anyone who has an engine sitting (I've had mine for about 15 months) should pull that plastic cover off the end of the crank, and take a good look inside. Spray some LPS-3 in there to protect it. Bart also said that LPS-3 was a good thing to spray in the cylinders once in a while. Pull the bottom plugs, spray a bunch of LPS-3 in there, put them back in then spray through the top plug holes. -- Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit) Ottawa, Canada http://members.rogers.com/khorton/rv8.html ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 19, 2002
Subject: Re: Engine corrosion heads up
From: James Freeman <flyeyes(at)bellsouth.net>
On Monday, August 19, 2002, at 08:39 PM, Kevin Horton wrote: > He suggested to put some tape on > the slot in the piece of tube where the oil comes in, fabricate some > sort of mandrel with a slot in it to hold a piece of scotchbrite pad. > Use the scotchbrite to remove the rust. Clean out the debris, Ouch. Kevin, I've had good luck cleaning rust from the inside of steel tubing using a cheap brake cylinder hone from the auto parts store to hold the scotchbrite. Hope this helps. James Freeman N9TN reserved ________________________________________________________________________________
From: N188rv(at)aol.com
Date: Aug 24, 2002
Subject: floor heat
I have 60 plus hours on my RV-8 now and am having trouble with heat in the floor behid firewall. Engine temps are all good but am getting a lot of heat transfer on to the feet. Any ideas? Stan ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 25, 2002
From: Kevin Horton <khorto1537(at)rogers.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Spinner forward bulkhead - C/S prop?
>--> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton > >I'm working on the spinner installation on my RV-8. I've got Van's >spinner and a Hartzell constant speed prop. The plans are a bit >inconsistent in showing whether we should secure the spinner to the >front bulkhead or not. My spinner fits tight against both bulkheads. >I can't wiggle the front of it at all. I'm not convinced I need any >screws from the spinner into the front bulkhead, but I would like to >see what the service history tells me. > >I haven't studied this area closely on other RVs, but I'm reasonably >sure I've seen quite a few RVs with no screws into the front >bulkhead. I would be interested in hearing from guys with flying RVs >who have constant speed props and no screws from the spinner to the >front bulkhead. How many hours do you have on the RV with this >installation? Do you see any sign of a problem? Would you do it the >same way again? > >Reply directly to me to avoid cluttering up the list >(mailto:khorton(at)rogers.com). I'll post a summary to the list in a >day or two once I've sorted out the inputs. > >Thanks, >-- >Kevin Horton RV-8 (spinner, cowling) Here is the followup I promised. I didn't actually hear from anyone who mounted their spinner without putting any screws in the front bulkhead. Several listers reminded me of the large forces on the spinner, and made strong recommendations to put screws in the front bulkhead. I'm a big believer in the lessons taught by service history. But, it seems like there is no service history to draw upon, and I'm not going to be the guinea pig. My spinner will have screws into the front bulkhead. -- Kevin Horton RV-8 (spinner, cowling) Ottawa, Canada http://members.rogers.com/khorton/rv8.html ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mike Nellis" <mike(at)bmnellis.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Spinner forward bulkhead - C/S prop?
Date: Aug 25, 2002
Hi Kevin, I must have missed your question when you first posted it, but I think Jerry Springer installed the spinner in his -6 without any VISIBLE screws in the front bulkhead. The last email address I have for him is jsflyrv(at)earthlink.net Mike Nellis - http://bmnellis.com Georgetown, TX Fuselage RV6 N699BM Reserved 1947 Stinson 108-2 N9666K ----- Original Message ----- From: "Kevin Horton" <khorto1537(at)rogers.com> Subject: RV8-List: Re: RV-List: Spinner forward bulkhead - C/S prop? > > >--> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton > > > >I'm working on the spinner installation on my RV-8. I've got Van's > >spinner and a Hartzell constant speed prop. The plans are a bit > >inconsistent in showing whether we should secure the spinner to the > >front bulkhead or not. My spinner fits tight against both bulkheads. > >I can't wiggle the front of it at all. I'm not convinced I need any > >screws from the spinner into the front bulkhead, but I would like to > >see what the service history tells me. > > > >I haven't studied this area closely on other RVs, but I'm reasonably > >sure I've seen quite a few RVs with no screws into the front > >bulkhead. I would be interested in hearing from guys with flying RVs > >who have constant speed props and no screws from the spinner to the > >front bulkhead. How many hours do you have on the RV with this > >installation? Do you see any sign of a problem? Would you do it the > >same way again? > > > >Reply directly to me to avoid cluttering up the list > >(mailto:khorton(at)rogers.com). I'll post a summary to the list in a > >day or two once I've sorted out the inputs. > > > >Thanks, > >-- > >Kevin Horton RV-8 (spinner, cowling) > > Here is the followup I promised. > > I didn't actually hear from anyone who mounted their spinner without > putting any screws in the front bulkhead. Several listers reminded > me of the large forces on the spinner, and made strong > recommendations to put screws in the front bulkhead. > > I'm a big believer in the lessons taught by service history. But, it > seems like there is no service history to draw upon, and I'm not > going to be the guinea pig. My spinner will have screws into the > front bulkhead. > -- > Kevin Horton RV-8 (spinner, cowling) > Ottawa, Canada > http://members.rogers.com/khorton/rv8.html > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mike Nellis" <mike(at)bmnellis.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Spinner forward bulkhead - C/S prop?
Date: Aug 25, 2002
Hi Kevin, I must have missed your question when you first posted it, but I think Jerry Springer installed the spinner in his -6 without any VISIBLE screws in the front bulkhead. The last email address I have for him is jsflyrv(at)earthlink.net Mike Nellis - http://bmnellis.com Georgetown, TX Fuselage RV6 N699BM Reserved 1947 Stinson 108-2 N9666K ----- Original Message ----- From: "Kevin Horton" <khorto1537(at)rogers.com> Subject: RV8-List: Re: RV-List: Spinner forward bulkhead - C/S prop? > > >--> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton > > > >I'm working on the spinner installation on my RV-8. I've got Van's > >spinner and a Hartzell constant speed prop. The plans are a bit > >inconsistent in showing whether we should secure the spinner to the > >front bulkhead or not. My spinner fits tight against both bulkheads. > >I can't wiggle the front of it at all. I'm not convinced I need any > >screws from the spinner into the front bulkhead, but I would like to > >see what the service history tells me. > > > >I haven't studied this area closely on other RVs, but I'm reasonably > >sure I've seen quite a few RVs with no screws into the front > >bulkhead. I would be interested in hearing from guys with flying RVs > >who have constant speed props and no screws from the spinner to the > >front bulkhead. How many hours do you have on the RV with this > >installation? Do you see any sign of a problem? Would you do it the > >same way again? > > > >Reply directly to me to avoid cluttering up the list > >(mailto:khorton(at)rogers.com). I'll post a summary to the list in a > >day or two once I've sorted out the inputs. > > > >Thanks, > >-- > >Kevin Horton RV-8 (spinner, cowling) > > Here is the followup I promised. > > I didn't actually hear from anyone who mounted their spinner without > putting any screws in the front bulkhead. Several listers reminded > me of the large forces on the spinner, and made strong > recommendations to put screws in the front bulkhead. > > I'm a big believer in the lessons taught by service history. But, it > seems like there is no service history to draw upon, and I'm not > going to be the guinea pig. My spinner will have screws into the > front bulkhead. > -- > Kevin Horton RV-8 (spinner, cowling) > Ottawa, Canada > http://members.rogers.com/khorton/rv8.html > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Sally and George" <aeronut58(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: floor heat
Date: Aug 25, 2002
Stan: Don't know if you have a heater fitting in the firewall or not. I do, and had a lot of air leaking around the flapper even when it was shut. A healthy application of high temp RTV around the flapper fixed it, and I've had no problem with heat transfer since. George N888GK 71 hours >From: N188rv(at)aol.com >Reply-To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com >To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: RV8-List: floor heat >Date: Sat, 24 Aug 2002 23:58:48 EDT > > >I have 60 plus hours on my RV-8 now and am having trouble with heat in the >floor behid firewall. Engine temps are all good but am getting a lot of >heat >transfer on to the feet. Any ideas? > >Stan > > http://www.hotmail.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Samjjake(at)cs.com
Date: Aug 25, 2002
Subject: Fwd: RV-8 canopy
From: Samjjake(at)cs.com Date: Fri, 23 Aug 2002 12:45:36 EDT Subject: RV-8 canopy We have started fitting the canopy for our -8, and are finding the canopy too short on the sides. We were short about 3/4" before cutting off the windscreen, and are still lacking about 1/2" on both sides (from the vicinity of the pilots shoulders aft to about 4" behind the 807 frame).. Have tried pulling the canopy down (25 lbs force), but this just distorts the aft canopy frame too the point where it is on the aft T-rail slide bar. I also think using this much force during the assembly will lead to a cracked canopy within a short time. Fore and aft movement of the canopy does nothing for the area that is short. Has anyone else had this problem? How did you correct it? Sam, RV-8, We have started fitting the canopy for our -8, and are finding the canopy too short on the sides. We were short about 3/4" before cutting off the windscreen, and are still lacking about 1/2" on both sides (from the vicinity of the pilots shoulders aft to about 4" behind the 807 frame).. Have tried pulling the canopy down (25 lbs force), but this just distorts the aft canopy frame too the point where it is on the aft T-rail slide bar. I also think using this much force during the assembly will lead to a cracked canopy within a short time. Fore and aft movement of the canopy does nothing for the area that is short. Has anyone else had this problem? How did you correct it? Sam, RV-8, ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Sally and George" <aeronut58(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Fwd: RV-8 canopy
Date: Aug 25, 2002
Sam: I'm not clear on what the problem is, but will try to help given a little more information. When you say the canopy is too short, I assume that you mean it doesn't reach to the rails on the canopy frame. If you've cut the canopy at or outside of the line scribed on the supplied part, that shouldn't be possible. Please clarify. DO NOT PULL DOWN ON THE CANOPY WHEN FITTING. YOU WILL CRACK IT. George N888GK >From: Samjjake(at)cs.com >Reply-To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com >To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: RV8-List: Fwd: RV-8 canopy >Date: Sun, 25 Aug 2002 14:41:31 EDT > > >From: Samjjake(at)cs.com >Date: Fri, 23 Aug 2002 12:45:36 EDT >Subject: RV-8 canopy >To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com > > >We have started fitting the canopy for our -8, and are finding the canopy >too >short on the sides. We were short about 3/4" before cutting off the >windscreen, and are still lacking about 1/2" on both sides (from the >vicinity >of the pilots shoulders aft to about 4" behind the 807 frame).. Have tried >pulling the canopy down (25 lbs force), but this just distorts the aft >canopy >frame too the point where it is on the aft T-rail slide bar. I also think >using this much force during the assembly will lead to a cracked canopy >within a short time. Fore and aft movement of the canopy does nothing for >the area that is short. > Has anyone else had this problem? How did you correct it? > >Sam, RV-8, > > >We have started fitting the >canopy for our -8, and are finding the canopy too short on the sides. We >were short about 3/4" before cutting off the windscreen, and are still >lacking about 1/2" on both sides (from the vicinity of the pilots shoulders >aft to about 4" behind the 807 frame).. Have tried pulling the canopy down >(25 lbs force), but this just distorts the aft canopy frame too the point >where it is on the aft T-rail slide bar. I also think using this much force >during the assembly will lead to a cracked canopy within a short time. >Fore and aft movement of the canopy does nothing for the area that is >short. > Has anyone else had this problem? >How did you correct it? > > Sam, RV-8, > > http://www.hotmail.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Sally and George" <aeronut58(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: alternator pulley bolt security
Date: Aug 26, 2002
I'm having trouble keeping the bolt tight which secures the pulley to the shaft of my Ford alternator. It is a single bolt, approximately 3/4" (though I suspect it might be an M16 metric) and has a single lock washer under it. It is difficult to tighten this nut, because there's no good place to grab the alternator shaft to keep it from turning. Doesn't look like there's any way to safety wire it (what would you wire it to?) and the alternator shaft is solid, so a castle nut and cotter pin doesn't sound like a solution. Maybe a second nut tightened down on top of the first? Maybe upsetting the threads on the end of the alternator shaft after the nut is tightened? If anybody out there has any experience with this, I'd appreciate your suggestions. George N888GK ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 26, 2002
From: jollyd <jollyd(at)ipns.com>
Subject: Re: alternator pulley bolt security
I have had that problem a time or two in the past..I take the thing off the engine..take out the BIG waterpump plyers, hold the pulley with tthe plyers, and tighten the nut..FIRST applying a generpous glob of lock tite ( I use red)..to the nut..never had one come loose yet...good luck..jolly in aurora, or. Sally and George wrote: > > I'm having trouble keeping the bolt tight which secures the pulley to the > shaft of my Ford alternator. It is a single bolt, approximately 3/4" > (though I suspect it might be an M16 metric) and has a single lock washer > under it. > > It is difficult to tighten this nut, because there's no good place to grab > the alternator shaft to keep it from turning. Doesn't look like there's any > way to safety wire it (what would you wire it to?) and the alternator shaft > is solid, so a castle nut and cotter pin doesn't sound like a solution. > > Maybe a second nut tightened down on top of the first? Maybe upsetting the > threads on the end of the alternator shaft after the nut is tightened? > > If anybody out there has any experience with this, I'd appreciate your > suggestions. > > George > N888GK > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 27, 2002
From: Bill Marvel <bmarvel(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: RV-8A Ride
Hi All: "R. Craig Chipley" wrote: > Bill, I just wanted to publicly thank you for giving > me my first RV-8 ride. I enjoyed every minute of it. I > apologize for having to run off like that. having four > kids keeps me going! Thank you for a well done > flight. To bad the turbulence was so bad in the st > louis area that day. really knocked us around > some..lol. check out my signature. > > Craig Chipley > St Louis > EMP!! > N198AB res. > --> RV-List message posted by: "Tom Scherder" Bill, I also want to publicly thank you for the RV 8 ride. It has re-energized my building efforts. Your plane flew great and was everything I expected. You, my new friend, are quite the gentleman, flying so far out of your way to demo your plane to a guy you don't even know. Your lunch will be waiting when you come through again. I can't tell you how much I enjoyed the flight. Tom in Ky Rv 8 n38NE about 6 months to go. Got a hanger today at LUK in Cincinnati ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Tom and Craig: You guys are most welcome and I enjoyed meeting both of you. When I told you that I was flying my 8A from Los Angeles to the east coast and back and would stop by and give you demo rides, I meant it! I LIKE doing this. I LIKE these airplanes. I LIKE meeting RV enthusiasts. And I LIKE accepting the only payment I ever accept for doing this -- lunch. No more, no less and no arguments. For you other listers, I gave another ride today to a United pilot in L.A. on a layover. He's the third I have met and flown, and at 6 feet 2 inches and 240 pounds, the biggest. They have bicycles available at their hotel and the ones who enjoy light planes pedal over to Torrance airport, about 7 miles south of LAX. My standard demo routine only takes about half an hour and involves the following: 1. The 300 foot takeoff with half flaps (180 HP O-360 and CS prop) 2. The 60 degree banked level turn with feet on the floor and the ball in the center. Few would believe this until they see it. 3. The impossible stall. This is one of the things I experienced in the demo flight from Van's the day I bought my kit. Drop full flaps below 100 mph. Pitch up 15 degrees and hold that attitude as the airplane slows. When you get to within about 5 mph of stall and the controls and airframe start to indicate that stall is imminent, throw in full power and maintain the pitch attitude. The airplane will actually climb at 500 FPM with full flaps, airframe buffeting and a 15 degree nose up attitude. NO ONE believes this, even after doing it. You can power this airplane into a climb while on the edge of a stall. 4. Let the engine cool and then do a couple of rolls. Everyone likes this. 5. Collect on lunch. Bill Marvel ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Samjjake(at)cs.com
Date: Aug 29, 2002
Subject: RV-8 Canopy, short on sides.
On Aug. 23, I wrote an e-mail to this list concerning my problems with a canopy for our RV-8 ( short on the sides ). Van's has been very responsive in dealing with this matter. I would like to follow up with what has happened to date. On Friday, the 23rd, we talked with one of Van's shop people about our problem. On Monday morning, the 26th, Van's contacted us and said a new canopy was being shipped the next day. I also talked to the canopy vendor, and it sounded like they had already taken steps to correct the problem we had. So, back to work.... Sam, RV-8, canopy time.... ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "BUTLER, FRANCIS" <FRANCIS_BUTLER@butler-machinery.com>
Subject: canopy photo's
Date: Aug 29, 2002
Anyone have detailed photo's of Lyle Hefels modified canopy (front part) that they can email me? Thanks, Francis Butler Butler Machinery Co. (701) 298-1758 direct (701) 476-3208 fax francis_butler@butler-machinery.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "van Bladeren, Ron" <rwv(at)nwnatural.com>
Subject: RV-8 Canopy, short on sides.
Date: Aug 29, 2002
I cut my canopy last night and will trial fit it tonight. Hope I have the "corrected" canopy. One suggestion. I had difficulty cutting the side flange while working from above because the mandrel screw would occasionally touch the vertical part of the bubble if I tried to get real close to the flange radius. I discovered that it was MUCH easier to hold the die grinder underneath the flange and cut while looking down through the plastic from above. You can easily see the disc as it cuts through from below and once through, you can cut at about 1/4" per second right up against the vertical part of the bubble! Use your thumb on the flange edge to steady and guide the tool. You'll have to allow about 3 inches of canopy to hang over the edge of the table for access and be sure to remove the plastic film as it tends to slow down the cutting rate. Cut the sides, then the ends. The front and rear end cuts are still best made from above. I haven't been real happy with my method for finishing the edges. I inverted the bubble in a large box full of foam rubber and have been using a belt sander on the edge. Still very slow and will try the modifed hacksaw draw blade tonight. Any other edge finishing secrets out there? Ron RV-8A. -----Original Message----- From: Samjjake(at)cs.com [mailto:Samjjake(at)cs.com] Subject: RV8-List: RV-8 Canopy, short on sides. On Aug. 23, I wrote an e-mail to this list concerning my problems with a canopy for our RV-8 ( short on the sides ). Van's has been very responsive in dealing with this matter. I would like to follow up with what has happened to date. On Friday, the 23rd, we talked with one of Van's shop people about our problem. On Monday morning, the 26th, Van's contacted us and said a new canopy was being shipped the next day. I also talked to the canopy vendor, and it sounded like they had already taken steps to correct the problem we had. So, back to work.... Sam, RV-8, canopy time.... ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "William Slaughter" <willslau(at)alumni.rice.edu>
Subject: canopy photo's
Date: Aug 29, 2002
I don't have any photos right now, but I do have one of the modified windscreens. Call Airplane Plastics 937.669.2677. Jeff or Becky. Very personable folks. William Slaughter -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of BUTLER, FRANCIS Subject: RV8-List: canopy photo's <FRANCIS_BUTLER@butler-machinery.com> Anyone have detailed photo's of Lyle Hefels modified canopy (front part) that they can email me? Thanks, Francis Butler Butler Machinery Co. (701) 298-1758 direct (701) 476-3208 fax francis_butler@butler-machinery.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 30, 2002
From: Kevin Horton <khorto1537(at)rogers.com>
Subject: RV-10 update
There is a new RV-10 update on Van's web site, for those who are interested. -- Kevin Horton RV-8 (spinner, cowling) Ottawa, Canada http://members.rogers.com/khorton/rv8.html ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 30, 2002
From: Kevin Horton <khorto1537(at)rogers.com>
Subject: ACS 2002 engine monitor
I noted a new link on Van's page to an ACS 2002 engine monitor, a new unit that I had not heard of before. http://www.vansaircraft.com/cgi-bin/catalog.cgi?&browse=ei&product=acs-2002 http://www.advanced-control-systems.com/ -- Kevin Horton RV-8 (spinner, cowling) Ottawa, Canada http://members.rogers.com/khorton/rv8.html ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ken Simmons" <ken(at)truckstop.com>
Subject: Elevator attachment
Date: Sep 01, 2002
I'm just about to finish the left elevator. The plans then call for trial fitting the elevators to the horz stab and drilling the WD-605's for attachment to the VA-146. Is it best to do this now or wait until further in the construction? Thanks. Ken (8 empennage) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 01, 2002
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Getting Bounced From Matronics Lists...
Dear Listers, I have two programs I run regularly to purge the various Matronics email lists of bad email addresses. I referred to these as my Email Weasels and there is a daily version that is run automatically every night at midnight and there is a and a monthly version that I run by hand at roughly 30-day intervals. The Daily Weasel grinds through the 8 to 10mb of bounced email that is generated each day looking for obvious things like "user unknown", "host unknown", and other things that usually mean the user's email address doesn't exist any longer. The Daily Weasel has been purging 5 to 10 email addresses each night. The Monthly Weasel gets more serious about the task and sends a single message to each list member with specially generated headers and content information. Any bounces or replies to these messages are considered errors and the email address is eligible for purging. This program is particularly useful for "weaseling out" email addresses that are actually being forwarded to by another email address that is subscribed to a List and otherwise would not be identifiable. The Monthly Weasel purges roughly 100 nonexistent email addresses each month when it is run. To check to see if your address has been removed by either of the Email Weasel programs, you can check the Weasel Status Web Page at the following URL: http://www.matronics.com/unsubscribed If you find your email address on the Weasel List, but are certain that everything is working fine now, simply go the Matronics Subscription page and resubscribe your address. No harm, no foul. The subscription URL is: http://www.matronics.com/subscribe That all having been said, I've noticed that the Daily Weasel may have been getting a little too aggressive in purging addresses recently and a number of people have written asking if and why they'd been dropped from the List. A couple of months ago I rewrote the Daily Weasel program to include a wider variety of errors and more aggressively purge. One of the new purge criteria that I added seems to occur a fair amount of the time (Connection Deferred) even though the address is really okay. As of today, I've removed the Connection Deferred criteria from the Daily Weasel Rule set and this should decrease the number of "false positives" and unnecessary unsubscribed. Again, if you get unsubscribed by either of the Email Weasel utilities, simply go to the subscription page and resubscribe: http://www.matronics.com/subscribe Best regards, Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Admin. Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551 925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft They that can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety. Benjamin Franklin Historical Review of Pennsylvania, 1759 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Sally and George" <aeronut58(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Elevator attachment
Date: Sep 01, 2002
Ken: You may do it now, but you may wait if you want to. It can be done any time prior to mounting the HS on the fuselage (after most of the fuselage is completed. It is not difficult to do, but it is important that the holes be accurately located and not oversized. George N888GK 75 hours >From: "Ken Simmons" <ken(at)truckstop.com> >Reply-To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com >To: >Subject: RV8-List: Elevator attachment >Date: Sun, 1 Sep 2002 11:28:33 -0600 > > >I'm just about to finish the left elevator. The plans then call for trial >fitting the elevators to the horz stab and drilling the WD-605's for >attachment to the VA-146. Is it best to do this now or wait until further >in >the construction? > >Thanks. > >Ken >(8 empennage) > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ken Simmons" <ken(at)truckstop.com>
Subject: Left elevator tabs
Date: Sep 01, 2002
As a follow up to my left elevator being almost finished, the bending of the tabs for the trim tab opening didn't turn out so well. From reading other posts it's no big deal to cut off these tabs and insert a rib. The question is what's the best way to do this? Specifically, which way should the rib be positioned and how many rivets on each side? Unfortunately I didn't make this decision until the left elevator was riveted so that will add a level of difficulty. Thanks. Ken ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 02, 2002
From: Kevin Horton <khorto1537(at)rogers.com>
Subject: Canada - rules changes for homebuilts
This message is really only of interest to those building in Canada, or who may want to import a foreign-built aircraft to Canada. The Director General of Civil Aviation issued an exemption to a couple of the rules recently. It is intended that the Canadian Aviation Regulations will be similarly amended, but that process will take some time. The exemption allows two things: 1. builders may contract professional assistance without fear that it will violate the 51% rule, as long as the builder "personally oversees" the construction and assembly. I spoke with one of the Transport Canada managers involved in these discussions, and he said that the clear feeling was that safety would be improved if builders were allowed to contract assistance where needed, without fear of jeopardizing the 51% rule. 2. homebuilts may now be imported into Canada, subject to a Transport Canada inspection. The text of the exemption may be read at: http://www.tc.gc.ca/civilaviation/maintenance/aarpg/Exemption-Appendix-C.doc -- Kevin Horton RV-8 (spinner, cowling) Ottawa, Canada http://members.rogers.com/khorton/rv8.html ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mike Nellis" <mike(at)bmnellis.com>
Subject: Re: Left elevator tabs
Date: Sep 02, 2002
Ken, I tried two different methods for producing little "riblet" for my aileron trim and elevator trim. The method I used for the aileron trim worked best for me and involved using some modeling clay. You can see how I made it here. http://bmnellis.com/wings_ailerons_trim.htm#AileronTrimTab I didn't document my elevator trim tab riblet very well but you can see what it looks like here. http://bmnellis.com/elevator4.htm You can have the riblet facing either way but squeezing the rivets if you install it with the flanges out poses a problem. I had the riblet flange facing out and just used blind rivets. Remember to offset the holes a little between the top and bottom rivets so you don't have interference problems. Mike Nellis - http://bmnellis.com Georgetown, TX Fuselage RV6 N699BM Reserved 1947 Stinson 108-2 N9666K ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ken Simmons" <ken(at)truckstop.com> Subject: RV8-List: Left elevator tabs > > As a follow up to my left elevator being almost finished, the bending of the > tabs for the trim tab opening didn't turn out so well. From reading other > posts it's no big deal to cut off these tabs and insert a rib. The question > is what's the best way to do this? Specifically, which way should the rib be > positioned and how many rivets on each side? Unfortunately I didn't make > this decision until the left elevator was riveted so that will add a level > of difficulty. > > Thanks. > > Ken > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 03, 2002
From: Roger Crandell <rwc(at)swcp.com>
Subject: need 6 platenuts
Does anyone have six ms21053L08K platenuts (anchor nuts) which you would sell? These are single eared, 8-32, countersunk, black steel platenuts. I have tired all sources and no one stocks them. If they special order, they have a large minimum order quantity. Yes, there are other options to these, but these would work the best for my specific application. I am building an RV6A. I hope to finish by March 2003. Thanks Roger ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Al Malecha" <azflyer(at)theriver.com>
Subject:
Date: Sep 08, 2002
Does anyone know of an RV8 QB project either started or not started for sale. AL Malecha www.azflyer(at)theriver.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 08, 2002
Subject: [ Kevin ] : New Email List Photo Share Available!
From: Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com>
A new Email List Photo Share is available: Poster: Kevin Subject: Dual Tanks http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/rv8r300@attbi.com.09.08.2002/index.html -------------------------------------------- o EMAIL LIST PHOTO SHARE Share your files and photos with other List members simply by emailing the files to: pictures(at)matronics.com Please view the typical Share above and include the Description Text Fields as shown along with your submission of files and photos. o Main Photo Share Index: http://www.matronics.com/photoshare -------------------------------------------- ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 08, 2002
From: jollyd <jollyd(at)ipns.com>
Subject: Re: e: RV8-List:
there was one on the white p[ages this morning...I also have a RV8A qb 99/95%completed if you are interisted... Al Malecha wrote: > > Does anyone know of an RV8 QB project either started or not started for > sale. > AL Malecha > www.azflyer(at)theriver.com > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 08, 2002
From: Kevin Horton <khorto1537(at)rogers.com>
Subject: Strength of riveted joints
Bill Marvel posted a very interesting message to the RV-List a few days about the strength of riveted joints. The message summarized the actual pull tests between aluminum coupons with different types of rivets, and with various rivet conditions (over-driven, correctly driven, under-driven). With Bill's permission, I have put his original message on my web site, so it is permanently available. See: http://members.rogers.com/khorton/rvlinks/marvelrivets.html -- Kevin Horton RV-8 (spinner, cowling) Ottawa, Canada http://members.rogers.com/khorton/rv8.html ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jack Textor" <jack(at)iajobs.com>
Subject: RV8 fuel access hole ????
Date: Sep 09, 2002
I'm utilizing the flop tube in my left tank (RV8). The plans don't cover the hole in the baffle very well. Should it be just large enough for the sender or similar to the access opening in the normal tank? I did order a cover plate from Van's so maybe that means the larger size. Thanks, Jack Textor RV8 DSM Jack Textor PERSONNEL INCORPORATED PLACEMENTS / OUTPLACEMENTS TESTING / TEMPORARY STAFFING Serving Clients For More Than 39 Years 604 Locust, Suite 516 Des Moines, IA 50309 515-243-7687 phone 515-243-3350 fax www.iaJobs.com jack(at)iaJobs.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 09, 2002
From: Kevin Horton <khorto1537(at)rogers.com>
Subject: Drag increase due to too high cowling inlets
I went to the EAA Chapter 486 RV Fly-in at Fulton, NY (FZY) last weekend. I spent quite a bit of time looking at cowlings, as I have just started working on mine. I noted one thing that is worth thinking about if you want to reduce drag. I'm building an RV-8. Van specifies the height of the air inlets as 2 5/8 to 2 3/4 inches (IIRC). I didn't have a ruler with me, but it was quite clear that many RVs have air inlets that are quite a bit larger than called for on the RV-8 plans. These RVs also had quite a large flat area extending above and/or below the spinner, which also supports my theory that their cowl halves weren't trimmed as much at the front as Van intended. So what, you ask? Well, if the height of the cooling air inlets is increased, the amount of air that goes into the cowling increases. If we look at the aircraft as our frame of reference, all this air has to slow down to pretty close to zero speed. Or, looking at the earth as our frame of reference, all this air has to be accelerated from a stop to the speed of the RV. This acceleration requires a force to be exerted on the air by the aircraft, and this force is felt by the aircraft as drag. I did a very rough back of the envelope calculation, and if the air inlet height on both sides is increased by 1/2 inch, that gives about a 4% drag increase, and would cause a speed decrease of about 2 kt for a 160 hp RV, and about 2.25 kt for a 200 hp RV. If the inlet height is one inch too high, you can about double those numbers. This calculation ignores the drag of the flat part of the cowl that may be exposed above and below the spinner if the front part of the cowl has more height than Van intended. So, the real effect could be greater than this back of the envelope calculation would suggest. Caveat - this calculation used quite a few simplifications. Total drag of a nominal aircraft was calculated based on Van's 75% cruise numbers, and an assumed 79% prop efficiency (obtained from a Hartzell prop efficiency map). Drag increase calculation assumed that the air entering the cowling was at free stream ambient conditions, and that the air was slowed to 10% of its initial velocity (relative to the aircraft). So, if you want to get Van's performance numbers, be sure to pay attention to the height of the air inlets on the cowl. Take care, -- Kevin Horton RV-8 (spinner, cowling) Ottawa, Canada http://members.rogers.com/khorton/rv8.html ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Sally and George" <aeronut58(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Drag increase due to too high cowling inlets
Date: Sep 09, 2002
Kevin has a good point. Another thing to consider, if you're working on your cowl: Set it up with the top of the spinner about 1/4 inch higher than the top of the cowl. That's because, after 100 hours or so, the engine will sag slightly on the mounts. If you set up initially with a the spinner matching the cowl contour, you will later have an unsightly step down from cowl to spinner. 1/4" worked just fine for me, but you could also add a little more, just in case. Having the spinner slightly higher than the cowl looks okay, but the converse is not true. George Kilishek RV-8 N888GK 80+ hours ----- Original Message ----- From: Kevin Horton Subject: RV8-List: Drag increase due to too high cowling inlets I went to the EAA Chapter 486 RV Fly-in at Fulton, NY (FZY) last weekend. I spent quite a bit of time looking at cowlings, as I have just started working on mine. I noted one thing that is worth thinking about if you want to reduce drag. I'm building an RV-8. Van specifies the height of the air inlets as 2 5/8 to 2 3/4 inches (IIRC). I didn't have a ruler with me, but it was quite clear that many RVs have air inlets that are quite a bit larger than called for on the RV-8 plans. These RVs also had quite a large flat area extending above and/or below the spinner, which also supports my theory that their cowl halves weren't trimmed as much at the front as Van intended. So what, you ask? Well, if the height of the cooling air inlets is increased, the amount of air that goes into the cowling increases. If we look at the aircraft as our frame of reference, all this air has to slow down to pretty close to zero speed. Or, looking at the earth as our frame of reference, all this air has to be accelerated from a stop to the speed of the RV. This acceleration requires a force to be exerted on the air by the aircraft, and this force is felt by the aircraft as drag. I did a very rough back of the envelope calculation, and if the air inlet height on both sides is increased by 1/2 inch, that gives about a 4% drag increase, and would cause a speed decrease of about 2 kt for a 160 hp RV, and about 2.25 kt for a 200 hp RV. If the inlet height is one inch too high, you can about double those numbers. This calculation ignores the drag of the flat part of the cowl that may be exposed above and below the spinner if the front part of the cowl has more height than Van intended. So, the real effect could be greater than this back of the envelope calculation would suggest. Caveat - this calculation used quite a few simplifications. Total drag of a nominal aircraft was calculated based on Van's 75% cruise numbers, and an assumed 79% prop efficiency (obtained from a Hartzell prop efficiency map). Drag increase calculation assumed that the air entering the cowling was at free stream ambient conditions, and that the air was slowed to 10% of its initial velocity (relative to the aircraft). So, if you want to get Van's performance numbers, be sure to pay attention to the height of the air inlets on the cowl. Take care, -- Kevin Horton RV-8 (spinner, cowling) Ottawa, Canada http://members.rogers.com/khorton/rv8.html = = = = Get mor ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Watrous, Donald" <WatrousD(at)ndu.edu>
Subject: RV-8 interest
Date: Sep 10, 2002
I am interested in learning more about the RV-8, especially with regards to it's aerobatic capabilities and performance. Is there anyone out there in the in the metropolitan D.C. area who built/flies one and would be willing to educate me? I am a military pilot thinking about owning an airplane suitable for both weekend acrobatics and cross-country trips. My friends indicate the RV-8 may fit both my desires and budget. Any help would be appreciated. My individual e-mail account is watrousd(at)ndu.edu . Thank You. Don W. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 10, 2002
From: Doug Ritter <d.d.ritter(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: RV-8 interest
Hi Don, I'm at the same stage as you, having just developed an intense interest in a RV 8 project. I have done a lot of reading and investigation into the project by first joining the national EAA (Experimental Aircraft Association) and the local chapter, 186. As a result I have made a lot of friends in the area who have completed or are in process of building RV8's. I would be happy to talk to you about my findings. I'm in the Mt.Vernon area and I work for NASA in DC. Also check out the web sites. Doug Ritter 703-360-5219 home 202-358-0025 work > >I am interested in learning more about the RV-8, especially with regards to >it's aerobatic capabilities and performance. Is there anyone out there in >the in the metropolitan D.C. area who built/flies one and would be willing >to educate me? I am a military pilot thinking about owning an airplane >suitable for both weekend acrobatics and cross-country trips. My friends >indicate the RV-8 may fit both my desires and budget. Any help would be >appreciated. My individual e-mail account is watrousd(at)ndu.edu > . Thank You. > >Don W. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RV8DRIVER(at)aol.com
Date: Sep 10, 2002
Subject: Re: RV-8 interest
Don Watrous wrote: I am interested in learning more about the RV-8, especially with regards to it's aerobatic capabilities and performance. Is there anyone out there in the in the metropolitan D.C. area who built/flies one and would be willing to educate me? I am a military pilot thinking about owning an airplane suitable for both weekend acrobatics and cross-country trips. My friends indicate the RV-8 may fit both my desires and budget. Any help would be appreciated. My individual e-mail account is watrousd(at)ndu.edu . Thank You.< Don, some time ago one of the magazines, KIt Planes or Sport Aviation, had in their "aircraft completed and restored" photo section an RV-8 built by a very high-time retired fighter jock whose comment was that it was "the best airplane he ever flew". You can take this as the hearsay that it is, but my high-time building partner, who flew F-104s and F-16s for the Norwegian AF, after flying the Van's demo RV-8, said to me "we have to build this airplane". My suggestion is to hook up with someone in your area and take a hop, or fly out to Van's and take the $60,000 free ride. Have fun! Andy Johnson, fuselage systems 'n stuff. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randy Lervold" <randy@rv-8.com>
Subject: Re: Drag increase due to too high cowling inlets
Date: Sep 11, 2002
George, When I did my cowl I carefully collected data on engine sag. In fact I put together a spreadsheet with all the data and broke all the configurations out.... O-320/fixed, O-320 c/s, O-360 fixed, O-360 c/s, IO-360 (angle valve) fixed... etc. To make a long story short I concluded from the reported data that my configuration (carbureted O-360 c/s) would sag 3/16", therefore I positioned my cowl a bit low relative to the spinner with this in mind. I now have 255 hours on the plane and it has not dropped at all. In fact my spinner still looks too high which bugs me every time I look at it. So, did yours really drop, and how much? Randy Lervold RV-8, 255 hrs, standard mounts from Van's www.rv-8.com > Another thing to consider, if you're working on your cowl: Set it up wit> h the top of the spinner about 1/4 inch higher than the top of the cowl. > That's because, after 100 hours or so, the engine will sag slightly on t> he mounts. If you set up initially with a the spinner matching the cowl > contour, you will later have an unsightly step down from cowl to spinner.> 1/4" worked just fine for me, but you could also add a little more, jus> t in case. Having the spinner slightly higher than the cowl looks okay, > but the converse is not true. > > George Kilishek > RV-8 N888GK > 80+ hours ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 11, 2002
From: Bill Marvel <bmarvel(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Drag increase due to too high cowling inlets
Hi all: With all this discussion about engine sag, which I have not experienced in 25 years and several airplanes, I have to ponder something. Is everyone aware that the shock mounts for dynafocal mount Lycs have one rubber biscuit that is harder than the other at all four positions? You have to install them so that the weight of the engine when sitting on the ground rests on the hard biscuit. This means that for the top mounts, the hard biscuit has to be on the aft side of the engine mount and on the bottom mounts the hard ones have to be on the forward side of the mount. I can't tell you the number of airplanes I have seen over the years with them reversed, or even random. If you do reverse them, the soft mounts will take a set and the engine will sag over time. Bill Marvel Randy Lervold wrote: > --> RV-List message posted by: "Randy Lervold" <randy@rv-8.com> > > George, > > When I did my cowl I carefully collected data on engine sag. In fact I put > together a spreadsheet with all the data and broke all the configurations > out.... O-320/fixed, O-320 c/s, O-360 fixed, O-360 c/s, IO-360 (angle valve) > fixed... etc. To make a long story short I concluded from the reported data > that my configuration (carbureted O-360 c/s) would sag 3/16", therefore I > positioned my cowl a bit low relative to the spinner with this in mind. I > now have 255 hours on the plane and it has not dropped at all. In fact my > spinner still looks too high which bugs me every time I look at it. > > So, did yours really drop, and how much? > > Randy Lervold > RV-8, 255 hrs, standard mounts from Van's > www.rv-8.com > > > > Another thing to consider, if you're working on your cowl: Set it up wit> > h the top of the spinner about 1/4 inch higher than the top of the cowl. > > That's because, after 100 hours or so, the engine will sag slightly on t> > he mounts. If you set up initially with a the spinner matching the cowl > > contour, you will later have an unsightly step down from cowl to spinner.> > 1/4" worked just fine for me, but you could also add a little more, jus> > t in case. Having the spinner slightly higher than the cowl looks okay, > > but the converse is not true. > > > > George Kilishek > > RV-8 N888GK > > 80+ hours > -- Bill Marvel Home/office 310 832 7617 P.O. Box 784 Cell 310 293 2013 San Pedro, CA 90733 Fax 310 832 5334 One good deed beats 100 good intentions... ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Sally and George" <aeronut58(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Drag increase due to too high cowling inlets
Date: Sep 11, 2002
Randy: Yes, mine has dropped about 3/16" in 80 hours. I have a carbureted O-360 with Sensenich metal prop and standard mounts from Vans. My spinner is still about 1/16" above the cowl line (started out 1/4" high), but nobody can see that without running a straight edge along the junction. Don't know if the thing is finished settling yet, but it seems to be done. From what I've seen, Randy, your plane looks great. I'd never notice that your spinner wasn't perfectly aligned with the cowl top. George Kilishek N888GK >From: "Randy Lervold" <randy@rv-8.com> >Reply-To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com >To: >Subject: Re: RV8-List: Drag increase due to too high cowling inlets >Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2002 09:20:57 -0700 > > >George, > >When I did my cowl I carefully collected data on engine sag. In fact I put >together a spreadsheet with all the data and broke all the configurations >out.... O-320/fixed, O-320 c/s, O-360 fixed, O-360 c/s, IO-360 (angle >valve) >fixed... etc. To make a long story short I concluded from the reported data >that my configuration (carbureted O-360 c/s) would sag 3/16", therefore I >positioned my cowl a bit low relative to the spinner with this in mind. I >now have 255 hours on the plane and it has not dropped at all. In fact my >spinner still looks too high which bugs me every time I look at it. > >So, did yours really drop, and how much? > >Randy Lervold >RV-8, 255 hrs, standard mounts from Van's >www.rv-8.com > > > > > > Another thing to consider, if you're working on your cowl: Set it up >wit> > h the top of the spinner about 1/4 inch higher than the top of the cowl. > > That's because, after 100 hours or so, the engine will sag slightly on >t> > he mounts. If you set up initially with a the spinner matching the cowl > > contour, you will later have an unsightly step down from cowl to >spinner.> > 1/4" worked just fine for me, but you could also add a little more, >jus> > t in case. Having the spinner slightly higher than the cowl looks okay, > > but the converse is not true. > > > > George Kilishek > > RV-8 N888GK > > 80+ hours > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 17, 2002
From: Ed OConnor <EdwardOConnor(at)compuserve.com>
Subject: Canopy Framf/RV-8
I am in the process of mounting my canopy frame and it fits pretty well. But having read the archives about how critical it is that it fit perfectly, I have a question for those who have ben there. With the frame closed and the slide block fully engaged, the cross bow of the frame that the slide block is attached to touched the top of the fuselage skin. I bent the bow up slightly and now have about 3/16 clearence on right side and about a 1/32 clearence on the left side. After doing this, the frame along the cockpit rail near the right rear projects out 3/16" beyond the fuselage skin contour when I clamp the strips of .040 to the lower portion of the frame. The left side is good. If I spring the left side of the cross bow up slightly to get additional clearence at the turttle deck skin, it creates a gap between the simulated canopy skirt and the fuselage skin. Now my Question. How anel must I be about the fit? Any advise about how much clearence between the cross bow on the frame and the skin on the turttle deck when the canopy frame is fully engaged in the lock block? I think with some help I can bend the lower longitudinal rail of the frame in if I were to bend the cross bow up a little. As it is mounted now, it appears I will need some felt or something glued to the botton of the canopy frame near where the transition from the larger tube tapers down to a smaller tube to insure it doesn't rub on the painted surface of the skin. Additionally, how much clearence between the skirt and the contour of the fuselage skin is acceptable? The directions say the simulated strips clamped to the frame should just touch the skin line. I have this in all except the right rear. If I bend the cross bow to achieve additional clearence on the turttle back skin on the left, then I am going to have to make additional bends on the lower rails to get them to fit perfectly. When do I quit bending and accept what I have? I think I know what the answer is but want to hear it from the experiance of others. The clearence at the rear apex of the frame to the slide rail is the called for 5/8 inch. Thanks ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Sally and George" <aeronut58(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Canopy Framf/RV-8
Date: Sep 17, 2002
Ed: sounds like you're done. I would not be bending the frame...you'll never get it right, and most likely only make things worse. If, when you're done, you have a small gap between the skirt and the fuselage side, you can add a little fiberglass to the inside of the skirt at the appropriate place to make it snug. George Kilishek N888GK 80 hours >From: Ed OConnor <EdwardOConnor(at)compuserve.com> >Reply-To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com >To: RV-list , RV-8 List >Subject: RV8-List: Canopy Framf/RV-8 >Date: Tue, 17 Sep 2002 10:10:47 -0400 > > >I am in the process of mounting my canopy frame and it fits pretty well. >But having read the archives about how critical it is that it fit >perfectly, I have a question for those who have ben there. With the frame >closed and the slide block fully engaged, the cross bow of the frame that >the slide block is attached to touched the top of the fuselage skin. I >bent the bow up slightly and now have about 3/16 clearence on right side >and about a 1/32 clearence on the left side. After doing this, the frame >along the cockpit rail near the right rear projects out 3/16" beyond the >fuselage skin contour when I clamp the strips of .040 to the lower portion >of the frame. The left side is good. If I spring the left side of the >cross bow up slightly to get additional clearence at the turttle deck skin, >it creates a gap between the simulated canopy skirt and the fuselage skin. > Now my Question. >How anel must I be about the fit? Any advise about how much clearence >between the cross bow on the frame and the skin on the turttle deck when >the canopy frame is fully engaged in the lock block? I think with some >help I can bend the lower longitudinal rail of the frame in if I were to >bend the cross bow up a little. As it is mounted now, it appears I will >need some felt or something glued to the botton of the canopy frame near >where the transition from the larger tube tapers down to a smaller tube to >insure it doesn't rub on the painted surface of the skin. Additionally, >how much clearence between the skirt and the contour of the fuselage skin >is acceptable? The directions say the simulated strips clamped to the >frame should just touch the skin line. I have this in all except the right >rear. If I bend the cross bow to achieve additional clearence on the >turttle back skin on the left, then I am going to have to make additional >bends on the lower rails to get them to fit perfectly. When do I quit >bending and accept what I have? I think I know what the answer is but want >to hear it from the experiance of others. The clearence at the rear apex of >the frame to the slide rail is the called for 5/8 inch. Thanks > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 17, 2002
From: Scott Bilinski <bilinski(at)qcpi.com>
Subject: Re: Canopy Framf/RV-8
I agree, the key is to add material to the skirt to make it fit the fuse. I would definitely call Van's before bending the frame. Another builder in town that I talked to last weekend told me he had to shim up the track the canopy rail rides in. I think this would be a better idea. than bending the frame to get clearance. > >Ed: > >sounds like you're done. I would not be bending the frame...you'll never get >it right, and most likely only make things worse. If, when you're done, you >have a small gap between the skirt and the fuselage side, you can add a >little fiberglass to the inside of the skirt at the appropriate place to >make it snug. > >George Kilishek >N888GK >80 hours > > >>From: Ed OConnor <EdwardOConnor(at)compuserve.com> >>Reply-To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com >>To: RV-list , RV-8 List >>Subject: RV8-List: Canopy Framf/RV-8 >>Date: Tue, 17 Sep 2002 10:10:47 -0400 >> >> >>I am in the process of mounting my canopy frame and it fits pretty well. >>But having read the archives about how critical it is that it fit >>perfectly, I have a question for those who have ben there. With the frame >>closed and the slide block fully engaged, the cross bow of the frame that >>the slide block is attached to touched the top of the fuselage skin. I >>bent the bow up slightly and now have about 3/16 clearence on right side >>and about a 1/32 clearence on the left side. After doing this, the frame >>along the cockpit rail near the right rear projects out 3/16" beyond the >>fuselage skin contour when I clamp the strips of .040 to the lower portion >>of the frame. The left side is good. If I spring the left side of the >>cross bow up slightly to get additional clearence at the turttle deck skin, >>it creates a gap between the simulated canopy skirt and the fuselage skin. >> Now my Question. >>How anel must I be about the fit? Any advise about how much clearence >>between the cross bow on the frame and the skin on the turttle deck when >>the canopy frame is fully engaged in the lock block? I think with some >>help I can bend the lower longitudinal rail of the frame in if I were to >>bend the cross bow up a little. As it is mounted now, it appears I will >>need some felt or something glued to the botton of the canopy frame near >>where the transition from the larger tube tapers down to a smaller tube to >>insure it doesn't rub on the painted surface of the skin. Additionally, >>how much clearence between the skirt and the contour of the fuselage skin >>is acceptable? The directions say the simulated strips clamped to the >>frame should just touch the skin line. I have this in all except the right >>rear. If I bend the cross bow to achieve additional clearence on the >>turttle back skin on the left, then I am going to have to make additional >>bends on the lower rails to get them to fit perfectly. When do I quit >>bending and accept what I have? I think I know what the answer is but want >>to hear it from the experiance of others. The clearence at the rear apex of >>the frame to the slide rail is the called for 5/8 inch. Thanks >> >> > > Scott Bilinski Eng dept 8220 Phone (858) 657-2536 Pager (858) 502-5190 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 17, 2002
From: Bill Marvel <bmarvel(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Canopy Framf/RV-8
Ed: I am not too far from cutting out a section of the aft skirt on both sides of my 8A and redoing the fiberglass layup to better fit the fuselage. In the 130 hours I have flown the plane, I have done several things to temporarily stop the draft that comes in back there, but I think only fixing the contour and adding some realistic seals will do the job. Like you, I tried as much as I could to get the frame to fit better, bending it with muscle power as the plans say. There is just so much you can do that way. I talked to Gus at Van's about this and he said there is no "approved solution" for taking care of it. FWIW, I looked at most of the 8s and 8As at the homecoming and noted that almost everyone had some temporary solution cobbled up to seal the gap between the skirt and turtledeck aft of the slider block crossbar. This is an ongoing problem. Just put it on as best as you can and expect to do some custom modification of the skirt later. As I said, I will eventually cut out a large section and lay it up new with the fuselage as the mold. Bill Marvel Ed OConnor wrote: > --> RV-List message posted by: Ed OConnor > > I am in the process of mounting my canopy frame and it fits pretty well. > But having read the archives about how critical it is that it fit > perfectly, I have a question for those who have ben there. With the frame > closed and the slide block fully engaged, the cross bow of the frame that > the slide block is attached to touched the top of the fuselage skin. I > bent the bow up slightly and now have about 3/16 clearence on right side > and about a 1/32 clearence on the left side. After doing this, the frame > along the cockpit rail near the right rear projects out 3/16" beyond the > fuselage skin contour when I clamp the strips of .040 to the lower portion > of the frame. The left side is good. If I spring the left side of the > cross bow up slightly to get additional clearence at the turttle deck skin, > it creates a gap between the simulated canopy skirt and the fuselage skin. > Now my Question. > How anel must I be about the fit? Any advise about how much clearence > between the cross bow on the frame and the skin on the turttle deck when > the canopy frame is fully engaged in the lock block? I think with some > help I can bend the lower longitudinal rail of the frame in if I were to > bend the cross bow up a little. As it is mounted now, it appears I will > need some felt or something glued to the botton of the canopy frame near > where the transition from the larger tube tapers down to a smaller tube to > insure it doesn't rub on the painted surface of the skin. Additionally, > how much clearence between the skirt and the contour of the fuselage skin > is acceptable? The directions say the simulated strips clamped to the > frame should just touch the skin line. I have this in all except the right > rear. If I bend the cross bow to achieve additional clearence on the > turttle back skin on the left, then I am going to have to make additional > bends on the lower rails to get them to fit perfectly. When do I quit > bending and accept what I have? I think I know what the answer is but want > to hear it from the experiance of others. The clearence at the rear apex of > the frame to the slide rail is the called for 5/8 inch. Thanks > Bill Marvel Home/office 310 832 7617 P.O. Box 784 Cell 310 293 2013 San Pedro, CA 90733 Fax 310 832 5334 One good deed beats 100 good intentions... ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 17, 2002
From: Bill Marvel <bmarvel(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Canopy Framf/RV-8
Ed: As to the frame, it certainly cannot contact any part of the fuselage at any time. You have to do whatever is needed to prevent that. I have about 1/8 inch clearance on each side between the turtledeck and the frame at the point that the slider crosspiece joins the frame perimeter tubes. This is in the closed position and is about the closest point I can find between frame and skin. As to the skirt, I am not too far from cutting out a section of the aft skirt on both sides of my 8A and redoing the fiberglass layup to better fit the fuselage. In the 130 hours I have flown the plane, I have done several things to temporarily stop the draft that comes in back there, but I think only fixing the contour and adding some realistic seals will do the job. Like you, I tried as much as I could to get the frame to fit better, bending it with muscle power as the plans say. There is just so much you can do that way. I talked to Gus at Van's about this and he said there is no "approved solution" for taking care of it. FWIW, I looked at most of the 8s and 8As at the homecoming and noted that almost everyone had some temporary solution cobbled up to seal the gap between the skirt and turtledeck aft of the slider block crossbar. This is an ongoing problem. Just put it on as best as you can and expect to do some custom modification of the skirt later. As I said, I will eventually cut out a large section and lay it up new with the fuselage as the mold. I see no other realistic way of making it fit better. My gap between the aft skirt and the skin is about 3/8 inch on each side at the widest point. Bill Marvel Ed OConnor wrote: > --> RV-List message posted by: Ed OConnor > > Any advise about how much clearence > between the cross bow on the frame and the skin on the turttle deck when > the canopy frame is fully engaged in the lock block? > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Speedy11(at)aol.com
Date: Sep 19, 2002
Subject: Wing Kit For Sale
I have a RV-8/8A wing kit for sale. It is partially finished with superb workmanship and has a phlongston spar. I bought another guys project in order to get his empennage and I don't need the wing kit since I have a QB kit. I can send digital photos. I will insure all parts are included. Van's current price is $5155 + shipping. I will sell for $2900 + shipping. I will build a crate to ship it if you pay for the materials to build it. Located in Tampa, FL. 813-318-9074 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 19, 2002
From: rv8driver <rv8tor(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Wing Kit For Sale
I'd be interested in seeing your pics. Can you send or post them? Thanks, kevin > >I have a RV-8/8A wing kit for sale. It is partially finished with >superb workmanship and has a phlongston spar. I bought another guys >project in order to get his empennage and I don't need the wing kit >since I have a QB kit. I can send digital photos. I will insure >all parts are included. Van's current price is $5155 + shipping. I >will sell for $2900 + shipping. I will build a crate to ship it if >you pay for the materials to build it. Located in Tampa, FL. 813- >318-9074 > > >_- > >===================================================================== >_- > >===================================================================== >messages. >_- > >===================================================================== >http://www.matronics.com/ _- > >===================================================================== >== > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Looking for Seattle area RV8 builder/flyers
Date: Sep 19, 2002
From: "William Allen (Volt)" <a-wallen(at)microsoft.com>
Sorry for the post to those who don't live in the Seattle area. I'm looking at building an RV8 and would love to meet some people in my local area who are flying RV8's and wouldn't mind showing me their plane as well as answer some of my questions regarding this task I'm about to take on. I live in North Bend and currently fly out of KRNT. I'm down there quite a bit lately working on more ratings, license's and what ever else I can fool them into giving me ;-) I'm especially interested in any one who is using their plane for Aerobatics and/or IFR, and I don't mean at the same time :-)! Anyone who will talk to me reply directly to me. Thanks! -Will Allen ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 19, 2002
From: Doug Ritter <d.d.ritter(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Wing Kit For Sale
Very interested. How old (when bought) and please send pics. Doug Ritter d.d.ritter(at)verizon.net > >I have a RV-8/8A wing kit for sale. It is partially finished with superb >workmanship and has a phlongston spar. I bought another guys project in >order to get his empennage and I don't need the wing kit since I have a QB >kit. I can send digital photos. I will insure all parts are included. >Van's current price is $5155 + shipping. I will sell for $2900 + shipping. >I will build a crate to ship it if you pay for the materials to build it. >Located in Tampa, FL. 813-318-9074 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 20, 2002
From: Scott Bilinski <bilinski(at)qcpi.com>
Subject: Re: Looking for Seattle area RV8 builder/flyers
Call Van's for a list of builders in your area. For flyers in your area go here: http://www.rvproject.com/rvfinder.jsp > >Sorry for the post to those who don't live in the Seattle area. > > >I'm looking at building an RV8 and would love to meet some people in my >local area who are flying RV8's and wouldn't mind showing me their plane >as well as answer some of my questions regarding this task I'm about to >take on. I live in North Bend and currently fly out of KRNT. I'm down >there quite a bit lately working on more ratings, license's and what >ever else I can fool them into giving me ;-) I'm especially interested >in any one who is using their plane for Aerobatics and/or IFR, and I >don't mean at the same time :-)! Anyone who will talk to me reply >directly to me. > > >Thanks! > > >-Will Allen > > Scott Bilinski Eng dept 8220 Phone (858) 657-2536 Pager (858) 502-5190 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 20, 2002
From: Richard Lundin <rlundin46(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Wing Kit For Sale
I got your pictures and email. I don't know where I am in the list of buyers but let me know if I get to the number one spot. Thanks, Rick --- Speedy11(at)aol.com wrote: > > I have a RV-8/8A wing kit for sale. It is partially > finished with superb > workmanship and has a phlongston spar. I bought > another guys project in > order to get his empennage and I don't need the wing > kit since I have a QB > kit. I can send digital photos. I will insure all > parts are included. > Van's current price is $5155 + shipping. I will > sell for $2900 + shipping. > I will build a crate to ship it if you pay for the > materials to build it. > Located in Tampa, FL. 813-318-9074 > > > > Contributions of > any other form > > latest messages. > other List members.

January 21, 2002 - September 20, 2002

RV8-Archive.digest.vol-ac