RV8-Archive.digest.vol-af
August 20, 2003 - March 30, 2004
> thought I'd come in and ask.....
>
> How do I squeeze the last rivets that attach the elevator skin to the
> trailing edge of the 703 and 709 ribs????
>
> -Will Allen
> North Bend, WA
> RV8 (desperately trying to finish emp so I can open my wing boxes!!!!!!!
> Arrrrgh)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: oil temperature |
I have an 8a that will fly very soon. I am told that 8a's with the bigger
engines have cooling issues due to the restricted air excit due to the nose
gear. Bigger engines (200hp) seem to have this problem, From what I have
read this can be fixed by letting more air out of the lower cowl. I had two
(approx) 5 x 7 x .032 plates made with 7 louver punches in each one, This
will let out more air and improve cooling. This mod can also be done on a
finished cowl. I will just screw mine on.
>
>Dear fellows,
>
>I am still working on my oil problem. I have a 3" NACA inlet on the
>right side of my cowling, which provides my oil cooler. Cooler was from
>Positech and is now exchanged to a SW. But temperature is still too
>high.
>Is it possible, that I need an extra air channel from the back side of
>the oil cooler which routes the air outside of the cowling and will not
>mix with the warmer air from the engine? Somebody told me, that the
>backpressure in the area behind the engine could be too high?
>Is that right? Ideas?
>
>Stephan Servatius
>D-EBRV
>8 hrs.
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <aflyer(at)direcway.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wicked screensaver |
Please see the attached file for details.
________________________________________________________________________________
Please see the attached file for details.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <jhstarn(at)earthlink.net> |
Please see the attached file for details.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <ernest.kells(at)sympatico.ca> |
Please see the attached file for details.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <emrath(at)comcast.net> |
Please see the attached file for details.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <cengland(at)netdoor.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Your application |
Please see the attached file for details.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Nick N" <rvator(at)nicknaf.com> |
| Subject: | RE: RV-List: Worm attack on members address book |
I've notice the same thing. I try to do a decent job of protecting my
systems, yet somehow 2 worms got in. I used a program call SysClean to
clean it back up.
If you want a copy, go to Google and do a search or you can Download it
from me directly.
http://www.nicknaf.com/files/sysClean.zip
Its freeware from the manufacture (sorry, don't remember the name off
hand) so there should NOT be a problem with distribution.
Nick
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tom Gummo
Subject: RV-List: Worm attack on members address book
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tom Gummo"
NON RV Related
I have to assume that the five or six emails a day that I have been
getting
from the RV List lately
that contain only the line:
****************
Please see the attached file for details.
****************
are because the member's computer has been attacked by the worm that
very
one is talking about.
I know the List removes any attached files.
Hopefully, you haven't gotten any from me (I rather to lucky than good).
Tom Gummo
Apple Valley, CA 92307
________________________________________________________________________________
Hi builders,
I received pictures and infos from James Freeman about a RV8 with a good oil coller
system.
I am looking for Mark Rowe, N108MR. Does anybody have his email address?
Thanks
--
Stephan J.W. Servatius
Untere Hauptstr. 3
85461 Bockhorn
Germany
Tel. +49-8122-48383
Fax +49-8122-902188
Mobile +49-179-1059749
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | Banjo fitting for Marvel Carburetor |
I sent this message to the RV list, but did not see it displayed, so here
goes again. I would like to know if anyone has used a banjo fitting for
attaching the fuel line from the engine driven pump to the Marvel
carburetor. With the heat muff on the exhaust pipe there isn't much room for
a 90 degree AN fitting at that location. I see that Aeroquip has a banjo
fitting that looks like it would work, but I would like to know if anyone
has experience in the real world with such a hookup.
Stephen Soule
Swanton, Vermont
N227RV RV-6A flying
N222SZ RV-8 under construction
Banjo fitting for Marvel Carburetor
I sent this message to the RV list, but did not see it displayed, so here goes
again. I would like to know if anyone has used a banjo fitting for attaching the
fuel line from the engine driven pump to the Marvel carburetor. With the heat
muff on the exhaust pipe there isn't much room for a 90 degree AN fitting at
that location. I see that Aeroquip has a banjo fitting that looks like it would
work, but I would like to know if anyone has experience in the real world
with such a hookup.
Stephen Soule
Swanton, Vermont
N227RV RV-6A flying
N222SZ RV-8 under construction
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Banjo fitting for Marvel Carburetor |
What threads and sizes are you looking for?
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
Always looking for articles for the Experimenter
----- Original Message -----
From: "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com>
Subject: RV8-List: Banjo fitting for Marvel Carburetor
>
> I sent this message to the RV list, but did not see it displayed, so here
> goes again. I would like to know if anyone has used a banjo fitting for
> attaching the fuel line from the engine driven pump to the Marvel
> carburetor. With the heat muff on the exhaust pipe there isn't much room
for
> a 90 degree AN fitting at that location. I see that Aeroquip has a banjo
> fitting that looks like it would work, but I would like to know if anyone
> has experience in the real world with such a hookup.
>
> Stephen Soule
> Swanton, Vermont
> N227RV RV-6A flying
> N222SZ RV-8 under construction
>
>
>
>
>
> Banjo fitting for Marvel Carburetor
>
>
> I sent this message to the RV list, but did not see it displayed, so here
goes again. I would like to know if anyone has used a banjo fitting for
attaching the fuel line from the engine driven pump to the Marvel
carburetor. With the heat muff on the exhaust pipe there isn't much room for
a 90 degree AN fitting at that location. I see that Aeroquip has a banjo
fitting that looks like it would work, but I would like to know if anyone
has experience in the real world with such a hookup.
>
>
> Stephen Soule
>
> Swanton, Vermont
>
> N227RV RV-6A flying
>
> N222SZ RV-8 under construction
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | Banjo fitting for Marvel Carburetor |
Cy,
The fitting has to screw into the 1/4 pipe thread in the body of the
carburetor and accept a 3/8 inside diameter flexible hose. The AN816-6D in
the body of the carburetor does not provide sufficient clearance, even when
using a MS27224-6 type 90 degree flared fitting on the endof the flexible
hose. I tried a MS20822-6D in the carburetor with a straight fitting on the
end of the flexible hose, but the MS20822-6D would not "clock" properly when
tight, that is, would not point toward the engine driven fuel pump without
being too loose and leaking around the pipe threads.
I used banjo fittings on the Solex carburetors on an old sports car in the
1970's where clearance was an issue and never had trouble, although it was a
mystery to me why they never came loose.
Steve
-----Original Message-----
From: Cy Galley [mailto:cgalley(at)qcbc.org]
Subject: Re: RV8-List: Banjo fitting for Marvel Carburetor
What threads and sizes are you looking for?
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh Editor, EAA Safety
Programs cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
Always looking for articles for the Experimenter
----- Original Message -----
From: "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com>
Subject: RV8-List: Banjo fitting for Marvel Carburetor
>
> I sent this message to the RV list, but did not see it displayed, so
> here goes again. I would like to know if anyone has used a banjo
> fitting for attaching the fuel line from the engine driven pump to the
> Marvel carburetor. With the heat muff on the exhaust pipe there isn't
> much room
for
> a 90 degree AN fitting at that location. I see that Aeroquip has a
> banjo fitting that looks like it would work, but I would like to know
> if anyone has experience in the real world with such a hookup.
>
> Stephen Soule
> Swanton, Vermont
> N227RV RV-6A flying
> N222SZ RV-8 under construction
>
>
>
>
>
> Banjo fitting for Marvel Carburetor
>
>
> I sent this message to the RV list, but did not see it displayed, so
> here
goes again. I would like to know if anyone has used a banjo fitting for
attaching the fuel line from the engine driven pump to the Marvel
carburetor. With the heat muff on the exhaust pipe there isn't much room for
a 90 degree AN fitting at that location. I see that Aeroquip has a banjo
fitting that looks like it would work, but I would like to know if anyone
has experience in the real world with such a hookup.
>
>
> Stephen Soule
>
> Swanton, Vermont
>
> N227RV RV-6A flying
>
> N222SZ RV-8 under construction
>
>
advertising on the Matronics Forums.
Share: Share photos & files with other List members.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Garrison Sem" <chasm711(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | analog altitude reminder |
I am finishing the instrument panel and I am looking for an analog altitude
reminder, basically just a scratch pad to put assigned altitudes in. I have
seen units that look like a hobbs meter that you can turn the numbers with a
thumb wheel. Does anyone know of a source for these or a unit with similar
capabilities.
Thanks
Paul Schattauer
RV8#9
N808PS
Help protect your PC: Get a free online virus scan at McAfee.com.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Banjo fitting for Marvel Carburetor |
I believe that the banjo fittings use straight threads and a different
----- Original Message -----
From: "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com>
Subject: RE: RV8-List: Banjo fitting for Marvel Carburetor
>
> Cy,
>
> The fitting has to screw into the 1/4 pipe thread in the body of the
> carburetor and accept a 3/8 inside diameter flexible hose. The AN816-6D in
> the body of the carburetor does not provide sufficient clearance, even
when
> using a MS27224-6 type 90 degree flared fitting on the endof the flexible
> hose. I tried a MS20822-6D in the carburetor with a straight fitting on
the
> end of the flexible hose, but the MS20822-6D would not "clock" properly
when
> tight, that is, would not point toward the engine driven fuel pump without
> being too loose and leaking around the pipe threads.
>
> I used banjo fittings on the Solex carburetors on an old sports car in the
> 1970's where clearance was an issue and never had trouble, although it was
a
> mystery to me why they never came loose.
>
> Steve
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Cy Galley [mailto:cgalley(at)qcbc.org]
> To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV8-List: Banjo fitting for Marvel Carburetor
>
>
> What threads and sizes are you looking for?
> Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh Editor, EAA
Safety
> Programs cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
>
> Always looking for articles for the Experimenter
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com>
> To:
> Subject: RV8-List: Banjo fitting for Marvel Carburetor
>
>
> >
> > I sent this message to the RV list, but did not see it displayed, so
> > here goes again. I would like to know if anyone has used a banjo
> > fitting for attaching the fuel line from the engine driven pump to the
> > Marvel carburetor. With the heat muff on the exhaust pipe there isn't
> > much room
> for
> > a 90 degree AN fitting at that location. I see that Aeroquip has a
> > banjo fitting that looks like it would work, but I would like to know
> > if anyone has experience in the real world with such a hookup.
> >
> > Stephen Soule
> > Swanton, Vermont
> > N227RV RV-6A flying
> > N222SZ RV-8 under construction
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Banjo fitting for Marvel Carburetor
> >
> >
> > I sent this message to the RV list, but did not see it displayed, so
> > here
> goes again. I would like to know if anyone has used a banjo fitting for
> attaching the fuel line from the engine driven pump to the Marvel
> carburetor. With the heat muff on the exhaust pipe there isn't much room
for
> a 90 degree AN fitting at that location. I see that Aeroquip has a banjo
> fitting that looks like it would work, but I would like to know if anyone
> has experience in the real world with such a hookup.
> >
> >
> > Stephen Soule
> >
> > Swanton, Vermont
> >
> > N227RV RV-6A flying
> >
> > N222SZ RV-8 under construction
> >
> >
>
>
> advertising on the Matronics Forums.
> Share: Share photos & files with other List members.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ George McNutt ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: George McNutt
Subject: Simple Carb Heat Muff
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/gmcnutt@intergate.ca.08.30.2003/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
4) One line Subject description:
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Dan Krueger ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Dan Krueger
Subject: Canopy Water Seal
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/pndkrueg@mchsi.com.08.30.2003/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
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5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Bob Olds ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Bob Olds
Subject: How to build cheap strobe/tail wingtip lights
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/Oldsfolks@aol.com.09.03.2003/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
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If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
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6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Garey Wittich <gareywittich2000(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Riveting the HS607 Tip Rib to the HS Skin |
I am having problems riveting the "Most Forward Rivet" on the HS607 Tip Rib to
the HS Skin. It takes an extreme amount of pressure to force the HS Skin to lay
flush against the HS607 Rib's flange at this location. It looks like there
is approx a 0.032 " air gap between the Rib and Skin at this location. Do you
Buiders use a SHIM to fill this air gap or just "brute force" the Skin against
the Rib (using the clothes pin type clamps with wood shims) , so both Skin
and Rib flange meet??? I clecoed the opposite side of the Skin down, which helped
a little but not enough. I do not want to use a "pop' rivet (to pull the
two surfaces together), but desire to use a "solid" rivet in this location.
The RV Tapes by the Orndorff's make "everything look easy".
My Kit is 2 years old and none of the Ribs were pilot drilled, so newer Kits might
have a different part number for this Rib. To further clarify, this is the
Tip Rib that is approx in the middle of each Skin and is hard to get at.
Thanks, Garey Santa Monica, CA
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Slaughter" <willslau(at)alumni.rice.edu> |
| Subject: | Riveting the HS607 Tip Rib to the HS Skin |
I used a whole bunch of side grip clecos and c-clamps along with the
clothes pin type clamps. The skin will feel pretty stiff in this
confined area, but mine came out fine.
William Slaughter
Houston Texas
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Garey Wittich
Subject: RV8-List: Riveting the HS607 Tip Rib to the HS Skin
-->
I am having problems riveting the "Most Forward Rivet" on the HS607 Tip
Rib to the HS Skin. It takes an extreme amount of pressure to force the
HS Skin to lay flush against the HS607 Rib's flange at this location.
It looks like there is approx a 0.032 " air gap between the Rib and Skin
at this location. Do you Buiders use a SHIM to fill this air gap or
just "brute force" the Skin against the Rib (using the clothes pin type
clamps with wood shims) , so both Skin and Rib flange meet??? I clecoed
the opposite side of the Skin down, which helped a little but not
enough. I do not want to use a "pop' rivet (to pull the two surfaces
together), but desire to use a "solid" rivet in this location. The RV
Tapes by the Orndorff's make "everything look easy".
My Kit is 2 years old and none of the Ribs were pilot drilled, so newer
Kits might have a different part number for this Rib. To further
clarify, this is the Tip Rib that is approx in the middle of each Skin
and is hard to get at.
Thanks, Garey Santa Monica, CA
---------------------------------
direct advertising on the Matronics Forums.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bruce Green <mailindex(at)juno.com> |
The altimeter in my Eagle is stuck on 3,000 feet and it has already been
repaired several times, so my intent is to replace it with a new one. It
appears that new ones are $500 for US made and $200 for imported. I
don't fly anything close to IFR, so the cheap part of me says to buy the
cheap one, however the Eagle really vibrates a lot, so the other part of
me says to spend the money for a good one. Anyone have good or bad
experience with the imported altimeters??
Bruce Green
84 Christen Eagle
The best thing to hit the internet in years - Juno SpeedBand!
Surf the web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jolly" <jollyd(at)ipns.com> |
if you plane is not certified, go to Van's located aurora, or. and get one
of thiers..the prices are so low you will not believe it, and they are good
quality..I use them all in the planes I build...
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bruce Green" <mailindex(at)juno.com>
Subject: RV8-List: Altimeter
>
> The altimeter in my Eagle is stuck on 3,000 feet and it has already been
> repaired several times, so my intent is to replace it with a new one. It
> appears that new ones are $500 for US made and $200 for imported. I
> don't fly anything close to IFR, so the cheap part of me says to buy the
> cheap one, however the Eagle really vibrates a lot, so the other part of
> me says to spend the money for a good one. Anyone have good or bad
> experience with the imported altimeters??
>
> Bruce Green
> 84 Christen Eagle
>
> The best thing to hit the internet in years - Juno SpeedBand!
> Surf the web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "dennis schares" <dschares(at)yousq.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List Digest: 3 Msgs - 09/10/03 |
'RV8-List Digest Server' wrote:=0A=0A> *
>
>
> Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive
>
>
> Today's complete RV8-List Digest can be also be found in either
> of the two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest
> formatted in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked
> Indexes and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII
> v ...'=0A=0A=0A matronics.com account auto-reply:=0A=0A If you can keep your
head when all about you=0A Are losing theirs and blaming it on you;=0A If you
can trust yourself when all men doubt you,=0A But make allowance for their
doubting too;=0A If you can wait and not be tired by waiting,=0A Or, being
lied about,don't deal in lies,=0A Or, being hated, don't give way to hating,=0A
And yet don't look too good, nor talk too wise;=0A ... ... more look to
the attachment. =0A=0A=0A > Get your FREE matronics.com account now! <=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "dennis schares" <dschares(at)yousq.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 09/08/03 |
'RV8-List Digest Server' wrote:=0A=0A> *
>
>
> Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive
>
>
> Today's complete RV8-List Digest can be also be found in either
> of the two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest
> formatted in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked
> Indexes and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII
> v ...'=0A=0A=0A matronics.com account auto-reply:=0A=0A If you can keep your
head when all about you=0A Are losing theirs and blaming it on you;=0A If you
can trust yourself when all men doubt you,=0A But make allowance for their
doubting too;=0A If you can wait and not be tired by waiting,=0A Or, being
lied about,don't deal in lies,=0A Or, being hated, don't give way to hating,=0A
And yet don't look too good, nor talk too wise;=0A ... ... more look to
the attachment. =0A=0A=0A > Get your FREE matronics.com account now! <=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "dennis schares" <dschares(at)yousq.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 09/06/03 |
'RV8-List Digest Server' wrote:=0A=0A> *
>
>
> Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive
>
>
> Today's complete RV8-List Digest can be also be found in either
> of the two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest
> formatted in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked
> Indexes and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII
> v ...'=0A=0A=0A matronics.com account auto-reply:=0A=0A If you can keep your
head when all about you=0A Are losing theirs and blaming it on you;=0A If you
can trust yourself when all men doubt you,=0A But make allowance for their
doubting too;=0A If you can wait and not be tired by waiting,=0A Or, being
lied about,don't deal in lies,=0A Or, being hated, don't give way to hating,=0A
And yet don't look too good, nor talk too wise;=0A ... ... more look to
the attachment. =0A=0A=0A > Get your FREE matronics.com account now! <=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "dennis schares" <dschares(at)yousq.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 09/07/03 |
'RV8-List Digest Server' wrote:=0A=0A> *
>
>
> Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive
>
>
> Today's complete RV8-List Digest can be also be found in either
> of the two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest
> formatted in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked
> Indexes and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII
> v ...'=0A=0A=0A matronics.com account auto-reply:=0A=0A If you can keep your
head when all about you=0A Are losing theirs and blaming it on you;=0A If you
can trust yourself when all men doubt you,=0A But make allowance for their
doubting too;=0A If you can wait and not be tired by waiting,=0A Or, being
lied about,don't deal in lies,=0A Or, being hated, don't give way to hating,=0A
And yet don't look too good, nor talk too wise;=0A ... ... more look to
the attachment. =0A=0A=0A > Get your FREE matronics.com account now! <=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "dennis schares" <dschares(at)yousq.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 09/05/03 |
'RV8-List Digest Server' wrote:=0A=0A> *
>
>
> Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive
>
>
> Today's complete RV8-List Digest can be also be found in either
> of the two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest
> formatted in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked
> Indexes and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII
> v ...'=0A=0A=0A matronics.com account auto-reply:=0A=0A If you can keep your
head when all about you=0A Are losing theirs and blaming it on you;=0A If you
can trust yourself when all men doubt you,=0A But make allowance for their
doubting too;=0A If you can wait and not be tired by waiting,=0A Or, being
lied about,don't deal in lies,=0A Or, being hated, don't give way to hating,=0A
And yet don't look too good, nor talk too wise;=0A ... ... more look to
the attachment. =0A=0A=0A > Get your FREE matronics.com account now! <=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "dennis schares" <dschares(at)yousq.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 09/04/03 |
'RV8-List Digest Server' wrote:=0A=0A> *
>
>
> Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive
>
>
> Today's complete RV8-List Digest can be also be found in either
> of the two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest
> formatted in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked
> Indexes and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII
> v ...'=0A=0A=0A matronics.com account auto-reply:=0A=0A If you can keep your
head when all about you=0A Are losing theirs and blaming it on you;=0A If you
can trust yourself when all men doubt you,=0A But make allowance for their
doubting too;=0A If you can wait and not be tired by waiting,=0A Or, being
lied about,don't deal in lies,=0A Or, being hated, don't give way to hating,=0A
And yet don't look too good, nor talk too wise;=0A ... ... more look to
the attachment. =0A=0A=0A > Get your FREE matronics.com account now! <=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Pat Long ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Pat Long
Subject: Cracks in Wood Prop Hub Bore
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/PGLong@aol.com.09.13.2003/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
4) One line Subject description:
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ John McMahon ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: John McMahon
Subject: Plenum
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/rv6@earthlink.net.09.13.2003/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
4) One line Subject description:
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Nate" <nateaf(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | F-1 Rocket Quickbuild for sale |
Interested in a RV-4 or RV-8? The F-1 Rocket is another tandem 2-seater but with a lot more performance. I am selling kit #111 with the tailkit for $31,500. There is no work done so there should be no problem with the 51% rule. If you would like more information on the F-1, visit http://www.teamrocketaircraft.com/.
Contact info: E-mail nateaf(at)hotmail.com
Phone: 310-416-1686
Location: Los Angeles
Nate Elliott
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle) |
| Subject: | New SPAM and Virus Filtering Appliance At Matronics... |
Dear Listers,
I will be installing a new SPAM and virus blocking appliance this
evening or tomorrow. The installation will involve some changes
in the Matronics DNS MX records, and will impact how incoming
email is handled. While I expect these changes to be transparent
to all of the List subscribers, things might go differently... ;-)
The Lists get bombarded with tons of SPAM messages and viruses
each day and fortunately my custom filters have been extremely
effective at filtering most of this from redistribution. Its
time to move to the next level of technology, however, and this
SPAM and Virus filtering appliance seems like an excellent
solution.
I will post a follow up message later in the week when things
have stabilized and I have some filter statistics to share.
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Admin.
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Ken Brooks ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Ken Brooks
Subject: Remote Magnetometer Shelf and CPU Mount for Blue Mountain Avionics
EFIS-One in RV-8
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/kenbrooks@charter.com.09.20.2003/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
4) One line Subject description:
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | [Please Read] SPAM Filter Could Be Causing Posting Problems |
For Some Members...?
Dear Listers,
Matronics is now utilizing a SPAM filter appliance to filter out the
excessive amounts of inappropriate email that bombards the Email List
Forums each day. The filter is reporting that over 66% of the email
messages sent to Matronics email destinations are of SPAM content and
reviewing the logfiles, it would appear to be true. That is indeed great!
While the Lists are enjoying the breath of fresh air afforded by the new
appliance, I am suspecting that a few legitimate email List posts are being
blocked as too, although I can't confirm this. It is difficult to churn
through the logfiles looking though thousands of blocked email messages
trying to determine if any legitimate List posts were blocked.
If you suspect that your posts are accidently being blocked by the SPAM
filter appliance, I have created a new Trouble Report web page that will
allow you to report your problems directly to me without having to use
email. If the SPAM filter is blocking your email address for some reason,
then its likely that I wouldn't be able to receive your direct email
regarding difficulty in posting. The web form bypasses the incoming email
and directs your message directly to me.
Please include as much information as possible regarding the problems you
are having including any bounced email or email error messages that you may
have received back in regard to your posts to the lists. The more
information I have about the email you are sending and what the errors you
are receiving, the better chance I'll have in hunting down the problem.
The Trouble Report Website URL is:
http://www.matronics.com/trouble-report/
I apologize for any inconvenience the SPAM filter may be causing you. I
will work toward resolving your issues as quickly as possible.
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Matronics EMail List Administrator
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Noel & Yoshie Simmons" <noel(at)blueskyaviation.net> |
"Rv7-List(at)Matronics. Com" ,
"Rv6-List(at)Matronics. Com"
OK list I need to get in contact with some one that has one of these
beautiful glass cockpits that is IFR approved to get the skinny on the
appropriate faa stuff one has to do. Thank you
Noel
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com> |
I lifted this off the Blue Mountain Avionics website discussion board:
Here is a posting titled "Equipping a Homebuilt for IFR Operations --
Provided by the EAA at the request of Blue Mountain Avionics."
http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/tvrvbg/_borders/IFR%20equipment.pdf
Terry
RV-8A, Blue Mountain EFIS/one, finishing
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Noel & Yoshie
Simmons
Com
Subject: RV8-List: glass cockpits
OK list I need to get in contact with some one that has one of these
beautiful glass cockpits that is IFR approved to get the skinny on the
appropriate faa stuff one has to do. Thank you
Noel
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Noel & Yoshie Simmons" <noel(at)blueskyaviation.net> |
"Rv9-List(at)Matronics. Com" ,
"Rv8-List(at)Matronics. Com" ,
"Rv7-List(at)Matronics. Com" ,
"Rv6-List(at)Matronics. Com"
SUSPICIOUS_RECIPS
It appears that these FAA regs alone are not enough. My FAA representative
and our FAA DAR (who is a homebuilder, too!) has told me that it is not
sufficient to follow all the rules; instead, an FAA rep or DAR needs to
positively approve it. If the instrument avionics are not TSO'ed or
equivalent, then they will not sign off on it. Period. Without the FAA
positive approval, even if you do not violate any FAA regs, you cannot fly
IFR.
I think the FAA inspectors/DAR do not want to risk their jobs, and there is
no specific instruction to them that non TSO'ed instruments are ok in
experimentals, so they just refuse. If you can find one FAA inspector/DAR
who is willing to sign off e.g., a bluemountainavionics EFIS for IFR use,
then please let me know.
Sincerely,
Noel Simmons
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Henry Hore ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Henry Hore <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
Subject: Corrosion Inside Fuel Tank Cap
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com.09.27.2003/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
4) One line Subject description:
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | ACS a-600 brake fluid reservious servicing |
how do you service these once installed? Kind of looks like you'd almost
have to remove the rudder pedels.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Henry Hore ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Henry Hore <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
Subject: Rivet-gun double off-set holder for one hand operation.
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com.09.28.2003/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
4) One line Subject description:
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Jim & Terri Truitt ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Jim & Terri Truitt
Subject: Jim & Terri Truitt's RV-8A
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/Jim.Truitt@usdoj.gov.09.29.2003/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
4) One line Subject description:
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Andrew Morgan" <amorgan53(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | [ Jim & Terri Truitt ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
very pretty, esp like those little touches of red on the empennage...
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Email List
Photo Shares
Subject: RV8-List: [ Jim & Terri Truitt ] : New Email List Photo Share
Available!
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Jim & Terri Truitt
Subject: Jim & Terri Truitt's RV-8A
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/Jim.Truitt@usdoj.gov.09.29.2003/index.ht
ml
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
4) One line Subject description:
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Perry" <eperry(at)san.rr.com> |
,
Potter Brumfield Circuit Breakers:
W58 1X10amp $5.25@
W58 2X15amp $5.25@
Potter Brumfield Pull Breakers:
W23 4X 1amp $11.00@
W23 1X 5amp $ 6.00@
W23 3X50amp $ 6.00@
Van's Plastic 2" eyeball vents (2) $10.00@
Vans Brake Fluid Reservoir (1) $10.00
UMA Dual diaphragm MP gauge
Brand New Part #7-200-35 $80.00
Used Beechcraft Volts/Load meter $10.00
NOS Control stick grip. Military, looks like P51 grip.
PTT switch not installed. $8.00
Any questions feel free to email and pictures are available on request.
All prices plus shipping...
Ed Perry
eperry(at)san.rr.com
Potter
Brumfield
Circuit Breakers:
W58 1X10amp $5.25@
W58 2X15amp $5.25@
Potter
Brumfield
Pull Breakers:
W23 4X 1amp $11.00@
W23 1X 5amp $ 6.00@
W23 3X50amp $ 6.00@
Van=92s Plastic 2=94
eyeball vents (2) $10.00@
Vans
Brake Fluid
Reservoir (1) $10.00
UMA
Dual diaphragm
MP gauge
Brand New
Part
#7-200-35 $80.00
Used
Beechcraft
Volts/Load meter $10.00
NOS
Control stick
grip. Military, looks like P51 grip.
PTT
switch not
installed. $8.00
Any
questions feel
free to email and pictures are available on request.
All
prices plus
shipping=85..
Ed
Perry
eperry(at)san.rr.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "GEORGE INMAN" <ghinman(at)attcanada.ca> |
| Subject: | Airbox and exhaust for o360 |
I have a chance to buy a lycoming 360(180HP)
equipped with a Bendix fuel inj. with vertical
induction.
Does Vans supply an exhaust and airbox for
this arrangement? will the airbox for the carburetor fit?
I am building an RV-8 QB.
GEORGE H. INMAN
ghinman(at)attcanada.ca
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Garey Wittich <gareywittich2000(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | MIL-T-43435B Lacing Cord at a 25% Cost Savings |
rv8-list(at)matronics.com, rv9-list(at)matronics.com
I have access to "Brand New" (in original packaging)
MIL-T-43435B Lacing Cord, Type 2 (Polyester / Hi
Temp), Finish C (Synthetic Rubber or Elastomer, NOT
Waxed), Size 3 (50 lb min strength; 0.085" wide x
0.014" thick). This Cord is used extensively by
avionic shops and airframe manufacturers to tie
individual electrical wires into bundles for their
avionics, etc.
* Least expensive way to make wire bundles.
* Will not cut into wires like Dental Floss used
by some Builders, as it is "flat".
* Higher Temp rating (-73 Deg C to 177 Deg C)
than Type 1 (-55 Deg C to 121 Deg C) that is
sold by Aircraft Spruce and Chief Aircraft for
$21 per Spool.
* Each Spool contains 500 yards of White or Blue
Polyester Cord. (Share with other Builders.)
* Excellent "Knot" retention.
* See: www.versatileindustrial.com/gudebrod.html
for additional info / pictures.
* Will sell for $15 per Spool - includes
shipping in the US.
If interested E-Mail me off line at -
gareywittich2000(at)yahoo.com
Video Attachment
Garey Wittich has sent you a video.
Please go to
http://mediaframe.yahoo.com/mf/spotlife/o?.auth=J1X2HgMJ9RN8GSoUSNHJhA--&id= document.Compose.To.focus();
document.Compose.ATT.value =
to view the video.
__________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "richard martin" <martin333(at)athenet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Autopilot servo mounting RV-8 |
>
>I'm about to the point of closing my wings (RV-8) and was wondering about autopilot
servos.
>
>>From the research I've done the Trutrak is the only one that mounts the roll
servo in the fuselage. When I asked Blue Mountain the answer was talk to someone
who has already done it. Not much help.
>
>Any other possiblities for fuselage mounting or do I need to make the decision
now?
>
>Thanks.
>
>Ken
>
Dear Ken,
I did all of the prototype work for TruTraks in my RV8. You may install the
roll servo in either the fuselage just aft of the forward control stick or in
the wing at the aeleron bellcrank bracket. All you need do is specify which
installation you prefer, and the proper brackets will be supplied. If you
have any further questions please call me at 920 619 6968 and I will advise.
I do not always look at the internet so email replys may be slow.
Dick Martin
RV8 N233M
the fast one
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Garrison Sem" <chasm711(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Autopilot servo mounting RV-8 |
The STEC roll and pitch servos both mount in the fuselage. Pitch aft of the
second former on a shelf and roll just aft of the roll torque tube on the
right center section rib.
Paul Schattauer
RV 8 N808PS
wireing
>From: "richard martin" <martin333(at)athenet.net>
>Reply-To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV8-List: Autopilot servo mounting RV-8
>Date: Sun, 19 Oct 2003 19:56:25 -0500
>
>
> >
> >I'm about to the point of closing my wings (RV-8) and was wondering about
>autopilot
>servos.
> >
> >>From the research I've done the Trutrak is the only one that mounts the
>roll
>servo in the fuselage. When I asked Blue Mountain the answer was talk to
>someone
>who has already done it. Not much help.
> >
> >Any other possiblities for fuselage mounting or do I need to make the
>decision
>now?
> >
> >Thanks.
> >
> >Ken
> >
>Dear Ken,
>I did all of the prototype work for TruTraks in my RV8. You may install
>the
>roll servo in either the fuselage just aft of the forward control stick or
>in
>the wing at the aeleron bellcrank bracket. All you need do is specify
>which
>installation you prefer, and the proper brackets will be supplied. If you
>have any further questions please call me at 920 619 6968 and I will
>advise.
> I do not always look at the internet so email replys may be slow.
>
>Dick Martin
>RV8 N233M
>the fast one
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> >
> >
>
>
Enjoy MSN 8 patented spam control and more with MSN 8 Dial-up Internet
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fabian Lefler" <fablef(at)bellsouth.net> |
, ,
| Subject: | Panel Items FOR SALE |
I have a few items for sale which I will not be installing. All of the items are
new and in their original package. The price includes shipping.
These are:
A. NAVAID CONTROL UNIT (AP-1) with GPS sterring from Porcine - $675
B. LIFT RESERVE INDICATOR (LRI) with heat probe - $400
C. RST-523 MARKER BEACON KIT- $85.00
D. FLIGHTCOM 403-D - sold
E. GRETZ AERO GPS ANTENNA - $55.00
You can see the items at this link: http://www.affordablepanels.com/forsale.htm
Fabian
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "GEORGE INMAN" <ghinman(at)attcanada.ca> |
| Subject: | Vert. Stab. lineup |
I am about to lineup my vertical stab
I have an RV-8 with a 180HP lycoming.
Can someone with this settup tell
me how much they had to trim their rudder
and which way?
I plan to line it up per vans directions,
but if I do error a small amount,which
direction should I error in?
GEORGE H. INMAN
ghinman(at)attcanada.ca
CELL 204 799 7062
HOME 204 287 8334
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
Listers,
I'm trying to get in touch with John Hughes of Irvine, California, who flies
a RV-6, N164JH. His plane was featured in the "RV of the Week." I tried the
email address listed on the website (rv6flyer(at)netzero.net) but got no reply.
Actually, I would like a few digital photographs of his plane. The
photograph on the website looks good, but doesn't show how the wings are
painted. I'm looking for ideas about how to paint my RV this winter, so
would like a closer look at his. If anyone has photographs of his aircraft
please contact me off line.
Steve Soule
RV-6A N227RV flying and RV-8 N222SZ under construction
Yellow tail
Listers,
I'm trying to get in touch with John Hughes of Irvine, California, who flies a
RV-6, N164JH. His plane was featured in the RV of the Week. I tried the email
address listed on the website (rv6flyer(at)netzero.net) but got no reply. Actually,
I would like a few digital photographs of his plane. The photograph on the
website looks good, but doesn't show how the wings are painted. I'm looking for
ideas about how to paint my RV this winter, so would like a closer look at his.
If anyone has photographs of his aircraft please contact me off line.
Steve Soule
RV-6A N227RV flying and RV-8 N222SZ under construction
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Sather" <sather(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Re: "Yellow tail" |
Steve, try this, not sure if this is the correct phone numbers for John but
address should be correct.
HUGHES JOHN
288 PORTICO AISLE
IRVINE, CA, 92606-8346
949) 653-5887
949) 250-1134
----- Original Message -----
From: "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com>
Subject: RV8-List: "Yellow tail"
>
> Listers,
>
> I'm trying to get in touch with John Hughes of Irvine, California, who
flies
> a RV-6, N164JH. His plane was featured in the "RV of the Week." I tried
the
> email address listed on the website (rv6flyer(at)netzero.net) but got no
reply.
> Actually, I would like a few digital photographs of his plane. The
> photograph on the website looks good, but doesn't show how the wings are
> painted. I'm looking for ideas about how to paint my RV this winter, so
> would like a closer look at his. If anyone has photographs of his aircraft
> please contact me off line.
> Steve Soule
> RV-6A N227RV flying and RV-8 N222SZ under construction
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Yellow tail
>
>
> Listers,
>
>
> I'm trying to get in touch with John Hughes of Irvine, California, who
flies a RV-6, N164JH. His plane was featured in the RV of the Week. I tried
the email address listed on the website (rv6flyer(at)netzero.net) but got no
reply. Actually, I would like a few digital photographs of his plane. The
photograph on the website looks good, but doesn't show how the wings are
painted. I'm looking for ideas about how to paint my RV this winter, so
would like a closer look at his. If anyone has photographs of his aircraft
please contact me off line.
>
>
> Steve Soule
>
> RV-6A N227RV flying and RV-8 N222SZ under construction
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Garey Wittich <gareywittich2000(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | 1/4" - 28 Threaded Shank Drill Bits / Scotch-Brite Wheels - |
40% SAVINGS
rv8-list(at)matronics.com, rv9-list(at)matronics.com
FOR YOUR BUILDING NEEDS:
1) 1/4"-28 THREADED SHANK DRILL BITS, Size #40
NEW
* Used with Angle Air Drills and Flexible
Drill Attachments, etc.
* NEW from Northrup / Grumman Aircraft Co.
* 2 1/8" Long, 135 Degree Split Point, High
Speed Steel
* YOUR PRICE $1.50 each (Avery Part #4140,
$2.70 each)
2) NAS907 Type B Drill Bits, Size #30 NEW
* High Speed, Nitride Oxide coated for
enhanced abrasion resistance
* Recommended for Stainless Steel, hard
Steel, Titanium, etc.
* NEW from Northrup / Grumman Aircraft Co.
* 135 degree Split Point
* 2 3/4" long
* YOUR PRICE $1.00 each
3) DEBURRING WHEEL (aka Scotch Brite Wheel)
* NEW from Northrup / Grumman Aircraft Co.
* Used to Radius, Deburr & Smooth edges on
Aluminum parts using a Die Grinder, etc.
* 7A Medium Grit, Aluminum Oxide
(The "ONE" recommended by Van's Aircraft)
* 1" dia x 1" high with 3/16" hole for
Mandrel (Mandrel not supplied)
* YOUR PRICE $3.25 each (Avery Part #3700,
$5.00 each)
Minimum Order $10.00 POSTAGE INCLUDED
Indicate interest OFF LINE by E-Mail. Supplies
Limited
__________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
OK.
Steve
-----Original Message-----
From: Robert Sather [mailto:sather(at)charter.net]
Subject: Re: RV8-List: "Yellow tail"
Steve, try this, not sure if this is the correct phone numbers for John but
address should be correct.
HUGHES JOHN
288 PORTICO AISLE
IRVINE, CA, 92606-8346
949) 653-5887
949) 250-1134
----- Original Message -----
From: "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com>
Subject: RV8-List: "Yellow tail"
>
> Listers,
>
> I'm trying to get in touch with John Hughes of Irvine, California, who
flies
> a RV-6, N164JH. His plane was featured in the "RV of the Week." I
> tried
the
> email address listed on the website (rv6flyer(at)netzero.net) but got no
reply.
> Actually, I would like a few digital photographs of his plane. The
> photograph on the website looks good, but doesn't show how the wings
> are painted. I'm looking for ideas about how to paint my RV this
> winter, so would like a closer look at his. If anyone has photographs
> of his aircraft please contact me off line. Steve Soule
> RV-6A N227RV flying and RV-8 N222SZ under construction
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Yellow tail
>
>
> Listers,
>
>
> I'm trying to get in touch with John Hughes of Irvine, California, who
flies a RV-6, N164JH. His plane was featured in the RV of the Week. I tried
the email address listed on the website (rv6flyer(at)netzero.net) but got no
reply. Actually, I would like a few digital photographs of his plane. The
photograph on the website looks good, but doesn't show how the wings are
painted. I'm looking for ideas about how to paint my RV this winter, so
would like a closer look at his. If anyone has photographs of his aircraft
please contact me off line.
>
>
> Steve Soule
>
> RV-6A N227RV flying and RV-8 N222SZ under construction
>
>
advertising on the Matronics Forums.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | All New Matronics Email List Online Chat!!! |
Hi Listers!
A number of Listers have been asking for some Matronics Email List online
chat and NOW ITS HERE! Over the last couple of days I've set up a nifty
web-based Chat site here on the Matronics systems. No special programs to
download; all you need is a late model web browser like Internet Explorer
or Netscape with a java plugin. I would recommend downloading the latest
Java plugin if you experience any problems getting the page to come
up. Here's a link to the Sun Java download
website. http://java.com/en/index.jsp Look for the green box with the
yellow arrow in the upper right corner. Before you bother, though, just
try you browser because it'll probably just work.
Each Email List on Matronics has its own "Room" and all rooms can easily be
accessed from the same client. In the Email List URL Trailer at the bottom
of each List message, you'll find the Link to this List's specific Chat
Room. Just click on the Link, and then type in your name or email address
in the User Name box. Try to use a name or email address that the other
Listers know you by. You'll find me lurking around the various List chat
rooms as "MattDralle".
There's a couple of nifty features I'll explain right off. On the main
Chat Window page after you login, you'll see a little icon with a Hammer
and a Screwdriver. This is the Control Panel window. Once the Control
Panel comes up, click on the "Settings" tab. Here you'll find, among other
things, three check boxes to enable sound. Click all three and you'll be
treated to a sound whenever someone enters or leaves the Room, or when
someone sends a message.
The other cool button is the one that has four little arrows pointing to
each of the four corners of the button. This will rip the main Chat window
from the web page and allow you to resize and move it anyway you'd like.
Let's have some fun and get to know one another better using this awesome
new Chat Room! To get started, just click the URL Link below for this
List's specific Chat Room!
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Admin
PS - I'm working on a web link interface to the chat logfiles. Coming soon...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | 2003 List Fund Raiser - Please Support Your Lists... |
Dear Listers,
During November of each year, I have a voluntary Email List Fund Raiser to
support the continued operation, development, maintenance and upgrade of
the Email Forums sponsored here. Your Contributions go directly into
improvements in the systems that support the Lists and to pay for the
Internet connectivity primarily dedicated to supporting the Lists.
The traffic on the Lists continues to grow and the numbers are nothing
short of impressive! Here are some statistics that show how much traffic
the Lists generated this year alone:
* 11/01/2002 - 10/31/2003
o Web server hits: 10,446,780 (870,565/mo)
o Incoming Email Posts: 58,918 (4,909/mo)
List-related upgrades this year have been plentiful, and List performance
has substantially improved as a result. Upgrades and enhancements this
year have included:
* Internet Connection upgrade to a full, commercial-grade T1 Line!
* New Web Server platform - Dual 3Ghz Xeon with 2Gb Ram and U320 SCSI!
* Upgrade of Email Server platform - Dual 1.7 Ghz Xeon with 1Gb Ram!
* All new SPAM Filtering Appliance - filters about 98% of the unwanted SPAM!
* All new, web-base List Chat Room society!
As you can well imagine, this year's upgrades translate into a fair amount
of cash outlay on my part and this annual List Fund Raiser is the sole
means by which I fund these upgrades. Unlike most of the other "list
servers" on the Web these days, I have a strict
*no-commercial-advertisement policy* on the Matronics Lists and associated
List web sites. I was again approached by a number of vendors recently
with advertising deals that have been very tempting. My commitment to
providing a grass-roots, non-commercial environment prevailed,
however! Commercialism on the Internet seems to be increasing
exponentially every year, with more and more SPAM and pop up ads, not to
mention the ever increasing Virus attacks.
My goal with the Matronics List Service is to provide all members
with a commercial-free, virus-free, and high-performance system
with which the may share information, ideas, and camaraderie.
The best news this year is that, with the gracious help of Andy Gold and
The Builder's Bookstore ( http://www.buildersbooks.com ), I have been able
to significantly expand the lineup of fantastic Gift offers to support the
List Fund Raiser! In all, there are eight awesome free gifts this year
ranging from List Archive CD's to Flight Computers with qualifying
Contribution levels. Those great Jeppesen Flight Bags that were so popular
last year are even back! A special thanks goes out to Andy Gold again this
year for his very kind and generous support of the Lists. Thanks Andy, for
these great incentives!!
Over the next month I'll be posting a few reminder messages about the List
Fund Raiser, and I ask for your patience and understanding during the
process. Remember that the Lists are *completely* funded through the
generous Contributions of its members. That's it! There's no support from
a bloated advertising budget or deep pockets somewhere. Its all made
possible through YOUR thoughtful and generous support!
To make your List Contribution using a Visa or MasterCard, PalPal, or with
a personal check, please go to the URL link below. Here you can find
additional details on this year's great free Gifts as well as information
on the various methods of payment. Contributions in the $20, $30, $50,
$75, and $100 range are common. The Contribution web page is kind of long
this year with the details of each of the gifts, so please scroll all the
way down!
SSL Secure Contribution Web Site:
http://www.matronics.com/contributions
I would like to thank everyone who supports the Lists this year! Your
Contributions truly make it all possible!!
Thank you!!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
rv7-list(at)matronics.com, rv8-list(at)matronics.com, rv9-list(at)matronics.com,
rv10-list(at)matronics.com, rvcanada-list(at)matronics.com,
rveurope-list(at)matronics.com
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | RVx-List vs. RV-List Subscriptions |
Dear RV-x Listers,
I was chatting with a nice fellow on the new Matronics RV6-List Chatroom
yesterday ( http://www.matronics.com/chat ), and he ask me an interesting
question. Basically, what he was saying was that he had been subscribed to
the RV-List back a few years ago and he used to get a lot of messages each
day. Recently, he resubscribed and now only gets a few messages. "What
Happened?", he wanted to know...
Long story short, originally he had subscribed to the non-model specific
List, the "RV-List(at)matronics.com". When he resubscribed, he just
subscribed to the model-specific List, the "RV6-List(at)matronics.com". Since
the model-specific Lists receive far less traffic than the main RV-List,
the mystery of his reduced content was solved. He's now subscribed to the
Main RV-List in addition to the RV6-List and is happily receiving a few
more messages each day.
I realize that many of you have made a conscious decision to only subscribe
to one or more of the model-specific Lists. This conversation did make me
wonder, though, just how many people have subscribed to the model-specific
Lists, not knowing that a lot of the RV dialog is really on the main
RV-List...?
Anyway, I thought I'd post a little message today and spread the word. I
did some number crunching on the RVx-Lists vs. RV-List subscriptions and
found that there are 819 unique people subscribed to one or more
model-specific RVx-Lists but that are NOT subscribed to the general
RV-List! That's a lot of people missing out on a main flow of RV information.
I've setup a little web page where you can check to see if you're currently
subscribed to the RV-List and easily subscribe if you're not!
http://www.matronics.com/rv-list/Am-I-Subscribed.html
The RV-List is where all the action is! Subscribe today! :-)
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Email List Admin.
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Esten Spears" <ewspears(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Heat Muff Placement on RV8A with 200 HP |
Does anyone have any suggestions and photos for a heat muff installation on
this challenging application. I've talked to Larry Vetterman and Rick Robbins
and they say it's can be done with multiple small muffs hooked up in series.
Told me someone named Dane in the Chicago area had three small heat muffs hooked
up.
If anyone has any info or photos it sure would be appreciated.
Esten Spears, RV8A, 80922, N922ES (reserved), Leeward Air Ranch, Ocala, FL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | List Fund Raiser - Wow, Have You Seen The Free Gifts? |
Dear Listers,
The List Fund Raiser is going well so far this year and I wanted to say
"Thank You" to everyone that has made a Contribution already this year!
Though the generous support of Andy Gold and the Builders Bookstore (
http://www.buildersbooks.com ), I'm able to offer some truly awesome gifts
with qualifying Contributions this year. There's quite a line up and a
rather diverse set of options - certainly something for every taste and
personality. Here's a list of this year's fine options:
* List Archive CD
* Aircraft Builder's Log
* Pilot Flashlight System
* Pro Pilot Logbook
* FAR/AIM on CD
* Jeppesen Flight Bag
* Aviation History Book
* Techstar Flight Computer
Please support your Email List Community AND pick up a really slick Gift at
the same time! The SSL Secure Contribution web site can be found at the
following URL:
http://www.matronics.com/contributions
Once again, I would like to thank everyone that has so generously supported
the continued operation and upgrade of the Lists Services here on the
Matronics servers!!
Thank you!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Mounting Oil Air Separator |
| From: | Edward OConnor <edwardoconnor(at)mac.com> |
I have an Andair oil/air separator and am wondering if it needs to be
mounted on the firewall in any particular relationship to the outlet on
the engine. Can it be mounted lower then the engine outlet or should
it be higher? Using XP 360 on RV-8.
Ed OConnor/RV-8/Sandy Creek Airpark/Panama City FL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Brumbelow <csbrumbelow(at)fedex.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Mounting Oil Air Separator |
Ed - I am no expert, but unless the Andair directions specify, I don't think
it will be picky about the mounting, to a point. On my RV-8A I used one of the
$36 A/C Spruce jobs, and ended up mounting it pretty much straight back from
the engine, toward the top of the firewall. This was driven by convenience and
out of the way placement, primarily.
However, if you are redirecting the oil back to the engine (which I would
assume you are doing), you will want to make sure that gravity will take the
oil from the separator, down the tube, and into the engine. Point being, don't
mount the separator LOWER than where the oil will go back into the engine.
After a whopping 6.4 hours, my set up appears to be working just fine.
Scott in MEM
N889BS (that's BRAVO SIERRA) RV-8A
Flying!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Edward OConnor wrote:
>
> I have an Andair oil/air separator and am wondering if it needs to be
> mounted on the firewall in any particular relationship to the outlet on
> the engine. Can it be mounted lower then the engine outlet or should
> it be higher? Using XP 360 on RV-8.
> Ed OConnor/RV-8/Sandy Creek Airpark/Panama City FL
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Becker" <ctbecker(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | R-710 Hole Edge Distance |
When I trimmed my R-710 - Rudder Horn Brace - then match drilled the holes through
the skin (4 on each side), the edge distance to the holes came out at 1/8
inch. It looks a little close to the edge. Do you think I need to reorder the
part?
Charles Becker
N474CB - RV8A
Empennage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Garey Wittich <gareywittich2000(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | A GUIDE TO AIRCRAFT PAINTING & CORROSION CONTROL |
rv8-list(at)matronics.com,
"rv9-list(at)matronics.com
(1.9 points)
SAVE YOURSELF hundreds of hours of research time and
building time, by ordering the comprehensive
"Guide to Painting & Corrosion Control of Aluminum and
Composite Aircraft"
This book took over 600+ hours of research time, by a
fussy Builder. Contains 64 pages of the latest,
practical information - summarized and gathered from
MIL Standards, Paint Shops, Builders like you (what
worked or didn't), Airframe Mfgs, etc. Covers
Products (characteristics & application of) from PP&G,
Dupont, Sherwin W'ms, Sterling, Poly Fiber, Deft,
Randolph Paints, PRC De Soto, US Paints, Aircraft
Finishing Systems, Tempo, 3M, etc.
Some of the Topics covered in the 30 Sections are:
* Aircraft Paints vs Auto Paints and Other
Considerations
* Corrosion Control
* Spray Guns - selecting, adjusting, using
and painting problems
* Brushes / Rollers used with Primers &
Paints
* Prep Methods for Painting - Fiberglass,
Steel and Aluminum
* Epoxy Primers for Aluminum - MIL &
Commercial, Solvent & Water Reducible
* Primers for Fiberglass & Steel
* Wash Primers & Self Etching Primers
* Other Primers - Zinc Chromate,Zinc Oxide,
Enamel
* Paint Types: MIL & Non MIL Polyurethanes
Enamel Types
Acrylics - Lacquers & Enamels
* Acid Etch / Conversion Coatings (Alodine)
* Criteria for selecting a Paint Shop
* 3M Cleaning Pads, Liquid Cleaners and their
effectiveness
* Paint Booths and their Construction
* References - MIL Standards & Tech Orders
* Directory of Aircraft Paint Mfgs, Distrib-
utors, etc. E-Mail addresses, Phone
Numbers, Application Notes
YOUR AIRPLANE is judged by it's Paint Job and it is
costly too, so have the latest "Information" in order
to make good decisions. Contains plenty of "Do's" and
"Don'ts" that save Time, Money and Frustration. Order
today.
Send a check for $25 to (includes Postage within the
US) to:
Garey Wittich
58 Village Parkway
Santa Monica, CA. 90405
__________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jolly" <jollyd(at)ipns.com> |
| Subject: | Re: R-710 Hole Edge Distance |
look in AC 43-13 it will tell you all the edge distances..the bool iS the
BIBLE!
----- Original Message -----
From: "Charles Becker" <ctbecker(at)charter.net>
Subject: RV8-List: R-710 Hole Edge Distance
>
> When I trimmed my R-710 - Rudder Horn Brace - then match drilled the holes
through the skin (4 on each side), the edge distance to the holes came out
at 1/8 inch. It looks a little close to the edge. Do you think I need to
reorder the part?
>
> Charles Becker
> N474CB - RV8A
> Empennage
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Garey Wittich <gareywittich2000(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | A GUIDE TO AIRCRAFT PAINTING & CORROSION CONTROL |
rv8-list(at)matronics.com, rv9-list(at)matronics.com
THIS IS NOT "SPAM", but from my research I did for my
RV-8A which I am building.
--------------- ------------- ------------
SAVE YOURSELF hundreds of hours of research time and
building time, by using the comprehensive
"Guide to Painting & Corrosion Control of Aluminum and
Composite Aircraft"
This book took over 600+ hours of research time by me,
a fussy RV-8A Builder. Contains 64 pages of the
latest, practical information - summarized and
gathered from MIL Standards, Paint Shops, Builders
like you (what worked or didn't), Airframe Mfgs, etc.
Covers products from PP&G, Dupont, Sherwin W'ms,
Sterling, Poly Fiber, Deft, Randolph Paints, PRC De
Soto, US Paints, Aircraft Finishing Systems, 3M, etc.
Some of the Topics covered in the 30 Sections are:
* Aircraft Paints vs Auto Paints and Other
Considerations
* Corrosion Control
* Spray Guns - selecting, adjusting, using
and painting problems
* Brushes / Rollers used with Primers &
Paints
* Prep Methods for Painting - Fiberglass,
Steel and Aluminum
* Epoxy Primers for Aluminum - MIL &
Commercial, Solvent & Water Reducible
* Primers for Fiberglass & Steel
* Wash Primers & Self Etching Primers
* Other Primers - Zinc Chromate,Zinc Oxide,
Enamel
* Paint Types: MIL & Non MIL Polyurethanes
Enamel Types
Acrylics - Lacquers & Enamels
* Acid Etch / Conversion Coatings (Alodine)
* Selecting a Paint Shop
* 3M Cleaning Pads, Liquid Cleaner
compatibility
* Paint Booths and their Construction
* References - MIL Standards & Tech Orders
* Directory of Aircraft Paint Mfgs, Distrib-
utors, etc. E-Mail addresses, phone
numbers, Application Notes
YOUR AIRPLANE is judged by it's Paint Job and it is
costly too, so have the latest "Information" in order
to make good decisions. Contains plenty of "Do's" and
"Don'ts" that save time, money and frustration.
Send a check for $25 to (includes Postage within the
US) to:
Garey Wittich RV-8A Builder
58 Village Parkway
Santa Monica, CA. 90405
__________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
Dear Listers,
Below are some of the nice things people have been saying about the Lists
in that little message box on the Contribution form! Thank you to everyone
that has made a Contribution thus far and for all the great
feedback! Please know that I really appreciate the comments and support!!
If you haven't yet shown your support for these Lists, won't you take a
moment and make your Contribution today? The Matronics Lists are always
Commercial-Free, SPAM-Free, Virus-Free, and High-performance and its your
direct support through this yearly Fund Raiser that enables all of these
valuable services you've come to expect.
Thank you for your Contribution!!
SSL Secure Web Site - http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Matt Dralle
EMail List Administrator
================================================================
=================== What Listers Are Saying ====================
================================================================
You provide a service to us kit builders that cannot be measured.
-Clifford M.
...great service to the aviation community.
-Curt R.
Thanks for being there - your List has really been of help.
-Thomas R.
Your lists have been most helpful to my RV-9A project.
-Dean V.
...has been a great help to me.
-Jim N.
..."must-have" for RV builders and pilots.
-Douglas W.
I find something every day on the List that helps me in my project.
-Ron P.
...very valuable!
-Patrick L.
Don't know that I could have persevered and succeeded without the List.
-Curt R.
...service continues to be awesome and is one of the most helpful resources
for homebuilding that I have ever found.
-Jim H.
The information and hours of entertainment many of us derive from the Lists
is priceless.
-Chris R.
I learn a lot about my [aircraft] through the Lists...
- Lee P.
Great source of education and entertainment. Love it!!!
-Lar B.
Great List & very well organized.
-Peter D.
I couldn't build my [airplane] without this List.
-William G.
The List is an important part of my daily routine.
-Roger H.
...incredible resource.
-Ron P.
Excellent facility.
-David M.
...unmatched service to all builders and flyers.
-Ralph C.
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | Marvel MA-4SPA carburetor questions |
I'm looking for an overhauled MA-4SPA carburetor. Who's a trustworthy
supplier? Who's got the best pricing? Lycoming lists three part numbers for
the same carburetor: 10-3678-32, 10-5009 and 10-5135. What's the difference?
It goes on a O-320 D1A, 160 hp.
Stephen Soule
N227RV RV-6A flying
N222SZ RV-8 under construction
Marvel MA-4SPA carburetor questions
I'm looking for an overhauled MA-4SPA carburetor. Who's a trustworthy supplier?
Who's got the best pricing? Lycoming lists three part numbers for the same carburetor:
10-3678-32, 10-5009 and 10-5135. What's the difference? It goes on a
O-320 D1A, 160 hp.
Stephen Soule
N227RV RV-6A flying
N222SZ RV-8 under construction
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fabian Lefler" <fablef(at)bellsouth.net> |
, ,
,
| Subject: | Aluminum Air Vents |
If you didn't get a chance to visit Oshkosh this year, and stop by the Van's Aircraft
tent, you probably missed meeting and talking to Jeff Mears of Airkit,
LLC. Jeff was at Oshkosh introducing his brand new set of full size aluminum
vents, which are a direct replacement to the plastic ones Van sells.
We just received a set of Jeff?s vents for our own RV-9A, and we are very impressed
with the quality, looks and performance of the vents. We want everyone on
the list to know that we paid the full price for our vents (call Jeff and ask).
Our main motive for posting this e-mail is, strictly, as a response to the
high number of calls we have received asking for an alternative to Van's plastic
vents. Until now, we didn?t know of one. All of the available aluminum
vents out there are only sold with a clear finish, and are much smaller in size
and volume of air they provide.
If you want to see a side by side comparison of the plastic vs. aluminum vents, see this special webpage we've created at http://www.affordablepanels.com/Airvents.html We are planning to sell these vents on a "Pass-Thru" basis to our customers to save them a bit on shipping charges when ordered with a Modular Panel, but if you are interested on a set of these vents, you can order them directly from Jeff by visiting his website at http://www.bravoavtech.com/airkit/ The vents are pricey, but compared to what other aviation catalog companies are charging for the tiny ones, these are an excellent deal.
Best Regards,
Fabian Lefler
www.affordablepanels.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Edward_W. O_Connor" <edwardoconnor(at)mac.com> |
Does anyone know if the SS line for the prop governor on a Lyc 0-320 is the same
as one on a 0-360? Are they the same part number etc? I may be able to get one
from a 0-320 if it fits. Thanks
Ed OConnor/RV-8 N366RV/Sandy Creek Airpark/Panama City FL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michel Gordillo" <michelgordillo(at)telefonica.net> |
| Subject: | Seat belt lenght RV8 |
Please, any one of you can provide the lenght of the straps, for a four
point seat belt, from the point they meet, into the attach points in the
plane, fwd and rear seat ( six footer). I have the chance to have them done
now for free( quick release), but have to wait a big while as I have just
started the QB kit ( horizontal stab closed).
Best regards, and thank you.
Michel
(no findings at the archives)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | [PLEASE READ] - Why Do I Have A Fund Raiser Each Year? |
Dear Listers,
I was thinking that perhaps I should explain why I have a Fund Raiser and
also take the opportunity to express why I think the List Services here
provide a far better experience than the commercial equivalents.
I use the List Fund Raiser each year to offset the costs involved with
running a high performance email list site such as this one. With the
annual support from the List members through the PBS-like Fund Raiser, I
have found I can run the entire site without having to inflect any of the
members with those annoying banner ads flashing up all the time trying to
sell Toner Cartridge Refills or other garbage nobody wants or needs. From
the comments I've received over the years regarding the Lists, the great
majority of the members really appreciate the non-commercialism of my List
systems and don't mind my 'go-team-go' banter once a year to encourage
members to support the Lists.
I believe that the Lists services that I provide here offer a great many
benefits over the commercial equivalents in a number of ways. The first
feature I believe to be particularly significant is that you *cannot*
receive a computer v*rus from any of my Lists directly. I've been on a few
other List servers and have been unfortunate enough to download infected
files people have innocently or not-so-innocently included with their
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Doyal R Plute <dplute(at)sbcglobal.net> |
Greetings:
I have just installed the RMD wingtip lights on my RV6A. What about aiming them?
Is this similar to auto lights where you aim lights at a wall and measure
up so far to be in correct alignment?
I am wondering about aiming each light for a different purpose one for landing
and the other for runway illumination . Good or bad idea?
I have also installed a flasher system for better recognition.
Anyway anyone that has been there and done that...how did you go about it. Any
measurements that would be helpful.
Sincerely
Doyal R. Plute
N246DP
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lyle Peterson" <lyleap(at)access4less.net> |
| Subject: | Rivets and rivet guns, etc. |
I am in the process of setting up to start on an RV6. It is a very slow
build kit. I would appreciate some advice on rivet tools.
What rivet gun seems to be the best all around as far as versatility and
longevity? Which seems to have the best trigger? Is a 1X enough? Is
3X too much?
What rivet sets are the most useful and which are useful in some limited
uses? Long sets, offset sets, C frame sets, swivel sets, cushioned
sets. Any other accessory that any of you found useful or would have
liked to have to make setting a particular rivet easier?
What size yokes are useful or needed in some locations on a pneumatic
rivet squeezer or on a hand rivet squeezer?
I apologize if you get several copies of this message. I am subscribed
to several RV lists.
Thank all of you for the information and encouragement.
Lyle Peterson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fred Hollendorfer" <phredyh(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Landing lights |
Doyal... I'm not quite ready to fly either; however, I've already
installed (leading edge) my lights.
They're not adjusted yet but I plan to aim one down the runway so it
will shine at the approximate
touchdown point and the other with the tail on the ground at point where
it will do the most
good while taxiing. I guess measuring at a spot on the wall with the A/C
leveled for the landing
light and again with the tail on the ground would be a great place to
start (sorry,don't have those
measurements either). You could at that point do a couple of dusk or
dawn landings for final
adjustments before leaping into "inky blackness of nite" :-o phred
Fred Hollendorfer
Wheat Ridge, Colorado
RV 80467 N998W
Tail, Wings finished. Fuselage in the jig
working on the gear boxes...
Build hrs 1066
http://phredyh0.tripod.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LARRY RUSH" <K9HXT(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rivets and rivet guns, etc. |
I have built an RV-6A (flying 2 years now) and am building a RV-8 now. I use a
3x gun and have a couple manual squeezers with 1.5" and 3" heads. Definitely buy
the swivel head mushroom rivet set for flush rivets from Avery, (best $35 you'll
spend). A 3." offset and straight for AN3 & AN4 rivets is needed. Avery
has a back rivet tool (spring loaded cuff) that is very helpful. I tried a pneumatic
squeezer but decided the limited use was not worth the cost. The deep throat
C-frame fixture is necessary for the control surface, and skin dimpling
etc.. Also the steel plate for back riveting the flaps, ailerons,& rudder etc.
You will find that as time goes along you will buy tools as needed. Hint...if
you see that if you had a certain tool the job would be faster and result in
a better looking job...BUY IT. I started by buying a tool set for RV building,
from U.S. Industrial Tool, for about $600. You'll need maybe 350 3/32" and say
100 1/8" Clecos too. This is the tip of the iceberg as they say. I probably
spent $1000 to $1500.+ on aircraft tools. After you finish the plane sell the
stuff ....unless you build another. My RV-6A took me 5 yrs 9 mos.!! Before
quickbuilds!!!
Luck, hard work, and perseverance, and you will prevail!
Larry, Avon, IN (2R2), N939LT
----- Original Message -----
From: Lyle Peterson
To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Monday, November 17, 2003 1:13 AM
Subject: RV8-List: Rivets and rivet guns, etc.
I am in the process of setting up to start on an RV6. It is a very slow
build kit. I would appreciate some advice on rivet tools.
What rivet gun seems to be the best all around as far as versatility and
longevity? Which seems to have the best trigger? Is a 1X enough? Is
3X too much?
What rivet sets are the most useful and which are useful in some limited
uses? Long sets, offset sets, C frame sets, swivel sets, cushioned
sets. Any other accessory that any of you found useful or would have
liked to have to make setting a particular rivet easier?
What size yokes are useful or needed in some locations on a pneumatic
rivet squeezer or on a hand rivet squeezer?
I apologize if you get several copies of this message. I am subscribed
to several RV lists.
Thank all of you for the information and encouragement.
Lyle Peterson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lyle Peterson" <lyleap(at)access4less.net> |
, ,
| Subject: | No subject as you will give it a new one shortly after you flame |
me
SUSPICIOUS_RECIPS
It is so disheartening to learn that aviators are so narrow minded and
selfish. If you people had used one tenth of the energy you expended on
blasting my question to providing useful information, you could have
written a book. As is it you only demonstrated that you 1. Don't know
the answers, 2. Think that your knowledge is so unique that it can't be
shared, 3. You have an immense amount of time to waste, 4. You have
absolutely no respect for other people, whether they be builders or not.
Someone suggested that the question was 'stupid.' The only stupid
question is one that you can't answer!
I checked the archives for the "gazillion" answers to be found there. I
found four and not all of them pertained directly to my question. None
of them covered all the questions I had posed.
A few responded off list. They probably did not want to be caught by
the lords of the list giving information to a new builder. I do thank
those few for the information they so generously shared. They are very
unlike the rest of the listers. Some two thousand people on these lists
and only a very few are willing to answer. Rather, several find the
time to waste flaming the questioner. The thread continues under the
guise of a 'Food Fight.' How charming!
So many messages use an existing subject because so few of you have
figured out how to start a new thread on the list. Shame, shame. Look
at the bottom of the message for the information you need. You don't
even have to ask a question of the list, and thus get flamed for a
stupid question.
I did envision one day flying it to Oshkosh. If I do, which is
doubtful, I will park it in the Vintage area. There are some folks
there that will talk decently to you about airplanes and lots of other
things.
If you get too many copies of this email, use the delete key.
Thanks for nothing,
Lyle Peterson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LARRY RUSH" <K9HXT(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: No subject as you will give it a new one shortly after you |
flame me
Mr. Peterson,
I am shocked to get this message from you. I sent you an honest answer to your
question and I got this !%@$#@*&
reply????
Below is what I sent you first time. How in the heck could that instigate such
a reply??
------------------------------
I have built an RV-6A (flying 2 years now) and am building a RV-8 now. I use a
3x gun and have a couple manual squeezers with 1.5" and 3" heads. Definitely buy
the swivel head mushroom rivet set for flush rivets from Avery, (best $35 you'll
spend). A 3." offset and straight for AN3 & AN4 rivets is needed. Avery
has a back rivet tool (spring loaded cuff) that is very helpful. I tried a pneumatic
squeezer but decided the limited use was not worth the cost. The deep throat
C-frame fixture is necessary for the control surface, and skin dimpling
etc.. Also the steel plate for back riveting the flaps, ailerons,& rudder etc.
You will find that as time goes along you will buy tools as needed. Hint...if
you see that if you had a certain tool the job would be faster and result in
a better looking job...BUY IT. I started by buying a tool set for RV building,
from U.S. Industrial Tool, for about $600. You'll need maybe 350 3/32" and say
100 1/8" Clecos too. This is the tip of the iceber!
g as they say. I probably spent $1000 to $1500.+ on aircraft tools. After you finish
the plane sell the stuff ....unless you build another. My RV-6A took
me 5 yrs 9 mos.!! Before quickbuilds!!!
Luck, hard work, and perseverance, and you will prevail!
Larry, Avon, IN (2R2), N939LT
-----------------------------------------
Thanks a lot........Larry
----- Original Message -----
From: Lyle Peterson
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com ; rv6-list(at)matronics.com ; rv7-list(at)matronics.com ;
rv8-list(at)matronics.com ; rv9-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, November 18, 2003 1:21 AM
Subject: RV8-List: No subject as you will give it a new one shortly after you
flame me
It is so disheartening to learn that aviators are so narrow minded and
selfish. If you people had used one tenth of the energy you expended on
blasting my question to providing useful information, you could have
written a book. As is it you only demonstrated that you 1. Don't know
the answers, 2. Think that your knowledge is so unique that it can't be
shared, 3. You have an immense amount of time to waste, 4. You have
absolutely no respect for other people, whether they be builders or not.
Someone suggested that the question was 'stupid.' The only stupid
question is one that you can't answer!
I checked the archives for the "gazillion" answers to be found there. I
found four and not all of them pertained directly to my question. None
of them covered all the questions I had posed.
A few responded off list. They probably did not want to be caught by
the lords of the list giving information to a new builder. I do thank
those few for the information they so generously shared. They are very
unlike the rest of the listers. Some two thousand people on these lists
and only a very few are willing to answer. Rather, several find the
time to waste flaming the questioner. The thread continues under the
guise of a 'Food Fight.' How charming!
So many messages use an existing subject because so few of you have
figured out how to start a new thread on the list. Shame, shame. Look
at the bottom of the message for the information you need. You don't
even have to ask a question of the list, and thus get flamed for a
stupid question.
I did envision one day flying it to Oshkosh. If I do, which is
doubtful, I will park it in the Vintage area. There are some folks
there that will talk decently to you about airplanes and lots of other
things.
If you get too many copies of this email, use the delete key.
Thanks for nothing,
Lyle Peterson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Crunkleton" <crunk12(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: No subject as you will give it a new one shortly after you |
flame me
Larry,
I too was shocked and looked back throught the e-mails and I couldn't find
anything to get his panties in such a wad! I thought your answer to his
question was excellent!
Maybe he has us confused with some of the other lists?
Jim Crunkleton
N802JD
40 hrs.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com> |
| Subject: | No subject as you will give it a new one shortly after you |
flame me
Some guys on the RV list were having fun at his expense, which lead to his
hostile response. My guess is he sent it to this list by mistake. Too bad.
The irony of course is that his response was as bad or worse than the
rudeness that inspired it. I'm sure it was not directed at anyone who
responded to him with helpful information.
Terry
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jim Crunkleton
Subject: Re: RV8-List: No subject as you will give it a new one shortly
after you flame me
Larry,
I too was shocked and looked back throught the e-mails and I couldn't find
anything to get his panties in such a wad! I thought your answer to his
question was excellent!
Maybe he has us confused with some of the other lists?
Jim Crunkleton
N802JD
40 hrs.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
ter you flame me
| Subject: | No subject as you will give it a new one shortly af |
ter you flame me
Jim and Larry,
He was raked over the coals on the regular RV list and posted his reply to
that list and this one. I don't think he meant to direct it to Larry
personally. I thought Larry's reply was pretty good, actually.
Stephen Soule
Swanton Vermont
RV-6A N227RV flying and
RV-8 N222SZ under construction
-----Original Message-----
Larry,
I too was shocked and looked back throught the e-mails and I couldn't find
anything to get his panties in such a wad! I thought your answer to his
question was excellent! Maybe he has us confused with some of the other
lists? Jim Crunkleton N802JD 40 hrs.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dr. Kevin P. Leathers" <DrLeathers(at)822heal.com> |
| Subject: | Re: No subject as you will give it a new one shortly after you |
flame me
Hi Lyle,
I started following this list over 3 years ago. I was a complete novice, and
did not even have my private pilot's license yet. I must have asked hundreds
of questions that undoubtedly marked me as a newbie. Not one time did anyone
ever make me feel unwelcome or annoying. On the contrary, the individuals on
this list have always welcomed everyone who has come along. Though I
eventually chose another design for my first project, I continue to follow
the RV lists. There is a wealth of information here. I know that I couldn't
do without it, even though I am not building an RV at this time. Your post
is overkill and somewhat vitriolic. Get over it, or build a Long EZ! ;-)
Just kidding, of course!
Doc
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lyle Peterson" <lyleap(at)access4less.net>
; ;
Subject: RV8-List: No subject as you will give it a new one shortly after
you flame me
>
> It is so disheartening to learn that aviators are so narrow minded and
> selfish. If you people had used one tenth of the energy you expended on
> blasting my question to providing useful information, you could have
> written a book. As is it you only demonstrated that you 1. Don't know
> the answers, 2. Think that your knowledge is so unique that it can't be
> shared, 3. You have an immense amount of time to waste, 4. You have
> absolutely no respect for other people, whether they be builders or not.
>
> snip>
> Thanks for nothing,
>
> Lyle Peterson
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Brenegan <brenegan(at)dataslice.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rivets and rivet guns, etc. |
Is there a big difference between 3X and 2X guns? I know the difference
on paper, but how about in use.
I heard there few rivets that need the 3X power (rv8 spar?), but the 2X
could be pushed to accomplish
the job. I've just purchased a 3x Sioux, but I'm thinking riveting the
.020 control surface skin I might want a 2X instead.
I'm an Airframe mechanic (i'llhave my cert next month anyways) and we
have 3x guns in school, which is why
I decided on a 3X and the Sioux guns seem to have a very good feathering
trigger. Should I keep it?
Also, is there anyone in the Seattle area willing to show me their RV-8
(finished or otherwise). I'll offer a ride
in my 1977 Beech Sierra C24R in return.
David Brenegan
RV-8 builder (soon anyways).
LARRY RUSH wrote:
>
>I have built an RV-6A (flying 2 years now) and am building a RV-8 now. I use a
3x gun and have a couple manual squeezers with 1.5" and 3" heads. Definitely
buy the swivel head mushroom rivet set for flush rivets from Avery, (best $35
you'll spend). A 3." offset and straight for AN3 & AN4 rivets is needed. Avery
has a back rivet tool (spring loaded cuff) that is very helpful. I tried a pneumatic
squeezer but decided the limited use was not worth the cost. The deep
throat C-frame fixture is necessary for the control surface, and skin dimpling
etc.. Also the steel plate for back riveting the flaps, ailerons,& rudder etc.
You will find that as time goes along you will buy tools as needed. Hint...if
you see that if you had a certain tool the job would be faster and result in
a better looking job...BUY IT. I started by buying a tool set for RV building,
from U.S. Industrial Tool, for about $600. You'll need maybe 350 3/32" and say
100 1/8" Clecos too. This is the tip of the iceber!
>g as they say. I probably spent $1000 to $1500.+ on aircraft tools. After you
finish the plane sell the stuff ....unless you build another. My RV-6A took
me 5 yrs 9 mos.!! Before quickbuilds!!!
>Luck, hard work, and perseverance, and you will prevail!
>Larry, Avon, IN (2R2), N939LT
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
> From: Lyle Peterson
> To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
> Sent: Monday, November 17, 2003 1:13 AM
> Subject: RV8-List: Rivets and rivet guns, etc.
>
>
> I am in the process of setting up to start on an RV6. It is a very slow
> build kit. I would appreciate some advice on rivet tools.
>
> What rivet gun seems to be the best all around as far as versatility and
> longevity? Which seems to have the best trigger? Is a 1X enough? Is
> 3X too much?
>
> What rivet sets are the most useful and which are useful in some limited
> uses? Long sets, offset sets, C frame sets, swivel sets, cushioned
> sets. Any other accessory that any of you found useful or would have
> liked to have to make setting a particular rivet easier?
>
> What size yokes are useful or needed in some locations on a pneumatic
> rivet squeezer or on a hand rivet squeezer?
>
> I apologize if you get several copies of this message. I am subscribed
> to several RV lists.
>
> Thank all of you for the information and encouragement.
>
> Lyle Peterson
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | Rivets and rivet guns, etc. |
Hi David,
I built my RV-6A with a 3X gun bought from Avery Tools and am working on a
RV-8 using the same gun. I found it just fine for the 3/16 flush rivets in
the skin. It is adequate for the 1/8 rivets until you get into thicker
material in relatively hard to reach areas such as where you rivet the main
ribs to the nose ribs on the wing spar. Then it doesn't seem to hit hard
enough until you increase the pressure to the point where you run the risk
of bouncing off the manufactured head. This leads to a smiley rivet and a
drill out project.
You might come out ahead with the Sioux gun since I hear the Sioux gun has a
nice progressive trigger.
The 2X guns are very nice to handle, but I wonder if you would like them for
the 1/8 rivets. I am happy with the 3X as my only rivet gun.
Stephen Soule
Swanton, Vermont
-----Original Message-----
Is there a big difference between 3X and 2X guns? I know the difference
on paper, but how about in use.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com> |
| Subject: | Rivets and rivet guns, etc. |
David,
I have a 2x rivet gun and I was quite happy with it until I tried to rivet
the fuselage where the longerons and the firewall come together. There are
a lot of pieces both steel and aluminum that come together there and I had a
hell of a time trying to get the rivets to form a decent shop head. I
finally realized that my gun just wasn't massive enough to shake all that
mass into the bucking bar. I back riveted them an all was fine. The next
RV I build, I will have both. Yes, I know. Less than useful answer.
I am in the Seattle area (Lake Forest Park) and am at the wiring stage with
my RV-8A. No bribes necessary to see my project.
Terry
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of David Brenegan
Subject: Re: RV8-List: Rivets and rivet guns, etc.
Is there a big difference between 3X and 2X guns? I know the difference
on paper, but how about in use.
I heard there few rivets that need the 3X power (rv8 spar?), but the 2X
could be pushed to accomplish
the job. I've just purchased a 3x Sioux, but I'm thinking riveting the
.020 control surface skin I might want a 2X instead.
I'm an Airframe mechanic (i'llhave my cert next month anyways) and we
have 3x guns in school, which is why
I decided on a 3X and the Sioux guns seem to have a very good feathering
trigger. Should I keep it?
Also, is there anyone in the Seattle area willing to show me their RV-8
(finished or otherwise). I'll offer a ride
in my 1977 Beech Sierra C24R in return.
David Brenegan
RV-8 builder (soon anyways).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Phil N" <pnewlon(at)toosan.com> |
| Subject: | Rivets and rivet guns, etc. |
I am working on my A/P as well. At the school I attend we are fortunate
enough to have both 2x and 3x guns, as well as hand and pneumatic
squeezers. I took my structures course last fall, of course paying
particularly close attention to the metal topics. During lab exercises
(of which we had many) I got to mash hundreds of rivets with a variety
of tools. At the risk of raising a rivetous person's ire, here's my
$0.02 on the 2x/3x topic: I bought a 2x Sioux with my tool kit.
I know I am far from an expert just because I've completed a structures
course, but I feel more comfortable having an opinion because of it. I
don't believe there will be many parts that I will need a 3x gun for and
I am pleased with the results I get using a 2x. If I need more power
I'll borrow a 3x from someone (or school), though I haven't seen any
indication of where I will need to do so ( _yet_ ). (Hey, there's an
idea..... Anyone want to start a kitplane tool rental?)
I am a fairly strong guy, though getting advanced in years (I can say
that now that I'm 40 :-) I don't think that I will need to invest in a
pneumatic squeezer. If my hands/arms are _that_ tired I need to go
inside and spend some time with the wife and let them rest for a bit.
I'll put the $500 in the "wing kit" piggy bank.
Phil
> Is there a big difference between 3X and 2X guns? I know the
> difference
> on paper, but how about in use.
> I heard there few rivets that need the 3X power (rv8 spar?),
> but the 2X
> could be pushed to accomplish
> the job. I've just purchased a 3x Sioux, but I'm thinking
> riveting the
> .020 control surface skin I might want a 2X instead.
> I'm an Airframe mechanic (i'llhave my cert next month anyways) and we
> have 3x guns in school, which is why
> I decided on a 3X and the Sioux guns seem to have a very good
> feathering
> trigger. Should I keep it?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Roberto Giusti" <roby(at)mail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: [rv8list] F-821 front top skin install |
Ship,
I checked the archives, I had saved your message and was nearly following it
to the letter
Great info BTW.
Here goes...
>Fabricate and temporarily install instrument panel
Didn't do that yet, thought it could come later, now that I think of it it
could help because it would force the F-821 skin into the right
curvature...will do ASAP.
>Find and mark the centerline of the F821PP, the support strips and each
>bulkhead.
Done...
>Attach the rear baggage door support strip to the middle bulkhead with at
>least 6 flush rivets, then mark for the centerline of the bulkhead flange.
Done...
>(Drilling this set of holes is the most difficult since it's impossible to
reach
>the bulkhead on the left side of the fuse while drilling from above.....I
used
>a long piece of wood to reach under the glareshield and push on the
bulkhead
>to align marks with holes)
I used 3 small pieces of angle strategically taped to the underside of the
top skin to "pull" the f-866 into the proper position.
>Riveting the front support strip to the firewall is not mandatory...you can
>clamp everything together. If you choose to rivet the strip you will need
to
>drill these out later prior to fitting/drilling the upper cowl hinge
I used only 3 rivets here, 2 at the very edges and 1 where the 2" gap will
be
>Place F821PP on the fuselage.
>Measure VERY accurately to center the skin on the fuse.
>Center & clamp F821PP along firewall flange.
>Mark fuse along skin edges for later reference
>Pull topskin down tightly and tape to fuse
>Drill skin to bulkheads ONLY at center holes or closest to center
>Cleco each center hole
That's where I am now, one center hole drilled and clecoed to the firewall.
I will go and install the instrument pane now, see if things get any better.
Thanks
Roberto
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | PC 680 battery question |
When I installed my PC 680 battery in my RV-6A in 2001 the battery had a
molded-in shelf at each end for a tie down clamp. I fitted angles inside the
battery box to hold it down. I ordered a new one and found that a PC 680 now
comes only in a battery case without the shelves on the ends. This means
that I have to work on a new way to hold the battery in place unless someone
can point me to a source of the old style PC 680 batteries. Can anyone help?
Stephen Soule
Swanton, Vermont
N227RV RV-6A flying
N222SZ RV-8 under construction
PC 680 battery question
When I installed my PC 680 battery in my RV-6A in 2001 the battery had a molded-in
shelf at each end for a tie down clamp. I fitted angles inside the battery
box to hold it down. I ordered a new one and found that a PC 680 now comes only
in a battery case without the shelves on the ends. This means that I have to
work on a new way to hold the battery in place unless someone can point me to
a source of the old style PC 680 batteries. Can anyone help?
Stephen Soule
Swanton, Vermont
N227RV RV-6A flying
N222SZ RV-8 under construction
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: PC 680 battery question |
I used the standard style battery hold down. This way if your ever out and
about and need a new battery, you will not be limited to a PC 680.
>
>When I installed my PC 680 battery in my RV-6A in 2001 the battery had a
>molded-in shelf at each end for a tie down clamp. I fitted angles inside the
>battery box to hold it down. I ordered a new one and found that a PC 680 now
>comes only in a battery case without the shelves on the ends. This means
>that I have to work on a new way to hold the battery in place unless someone
>can point me to a source of the old style PC 680 batteries. Can anyone help?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club" <sisson(at)consolidated.net> |
Rv8-List" ,
Rv7-List
| Subject: | Re: RV6-List: AK 450 ELT |
Hey Stein, I got the order from you today,
Great service and great prices. I have the Coax installed and the Xpndr checed
out OK..
Hoping to have the uhmw tape on in a couple of weeks.........
Phil
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <jeburke(at)direcway.com> |
| Subject: | RE: RV8-List Digest: 3 Msgs - 11/24/03 (confirm please) |
jeburke(at)direcway.com here,
I am controlling the email that is sent to my inbox. By asking for you
to confirm that you really sent email to me I can ensure that I receive
no spam and that your email address really exists.
This is a one time confirmation, please click the link below and your
email will be delivered straight away, now and in the future.
Click to confirm:
http://vetomail.com/ok/a037d4ba-d58e-4951-99c0-743f383db9ce
<http://vetomail.com/ok/a037d4ba-d58e-4951-99c0-743f383db9ce>
You are receiving this message in response to your email to
jeburke(at)direcway.com, a VetoMail customer.
VetoMail asks that senders verify their address before email is
delivered. When you have clicked the link above a webpage will be
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verified. You will only need to do this once per VetoMail protected
email address.
Thankyou.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <jeburke(at)direcway.com> |
| Subject: | RE: RV8-List Digest: 3 Msgs - 11/24/03 (confirm please) |
jeburke(at)direcway.com here,
I am controlling the email that is sent to my inbox. By asking for you
to confirm that you really sent email to me I can ensure that I receive
no spam and that your email address really exists.
This is a one time confirmation, please click the link below and your
email will be delivered straight away, now and in the future.
Click to confirm:
http://vetomail.com/ok/a037d4ba-d58e-4951-99c0-743f383db9ce
<http://vetomail.com/ok/a037d4ba-d58e-4951-99c0-743f383db9ce>
You are receiving this message in response to your email to
jeburke(at)direcway.com, a VetoMail customer.
VetoMail asks that senders verify their address before email is
delivered. When you have clicked the link above a webpage will be
displayed, if the page displays correctly your address has been
verified. You will only need to do this once per VetoMail protected
email address.
Thankyou.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | What Listers Are Saying III |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Al Grajek" <algrajek(at)msn.com> |
OhioValleyRVators(at)yahoogroups.com
Does anyone have any good pictures of the completed baffles ( particularly
the air seals), on the 8 or any RV? The instructions leave a lot to be
desired. I cant tell how to trim the seals once they are done.
Thanks
Al Grajek
Baffled!
Shop online for kids toys by age group, price range, and toy category at
MSN Shopping. No waiting for a clerk to help you! http://shopping.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill VonDane" <bill(at)vondane.com> |
,
| Subject: | Re: RV-List: RV 8 Baffles |
http://vondane.com/rv8a/engine/baffles.htm
http://www.vafml.org/members/rlynn/page2.htm
-Bill VonDane
RV-8A - Colorado
www.vondane.com
www.creativair.com
www.epanelbuilder.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Al Grajek" <algrajek(at)msn.com>
;
Subject: RV-List: RV 8 Baffles
--> RV-List message posted by: "Al Grajek"
Does anyone have any good pictures of the completed baffles ( particularly
the air seals), on the 8 or any RV? The instructions leave a lot to be
desired. I cant tell how to trim the seals once they are done.
Thanks
Al Grajek
Baffled!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vince Himsl" <vhimsl(at)turbonet.com> |
| Subject: | RV-8 Wire Conduit holes through front and rear spars |
Hello,
I am starting to wire my RV-8 and would like to make a cable run that parallels
the rudder cables through both the front
and rear spar so as to avoid exposed cables in the cabin. This requires my putting
two small holes (7/16 to 5/8) a couple
inches inboard from each rudder cable spar hole on both front and rear spars.
Surfing the net I have seen pictures of where other builders have done same, but
would like to hear from anyone who has
done this and also has received the official blessing from Van's?
Thanks!
Vince Himsl
RV8-SB Finish
N8432 reserved
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vincent Himsl" <vhimsl(at)turbonet.com> |
| Subject: | Comm and Transponder antennae location |
Hello,
I would like to know where others have placed their Comm and Transponder
andtenae. Specifically those who have placed them in easily accessible
areas such as uder the front foot wells and near the first bulkhead behind
the back seat (RV8).
Naturally, I have already placed sound proofing stuff all over and will need
to remove some of it.
Thanks,
Vince Himsl
RV8 - SB Finish
N8432 reserved
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Don Miller" <millerdon(at)wowway.com> |
| Subject: | RV-8 Wire Conduit holes through front and rear spars |
Vince, I had to drill a couple of holes in the spars - and consulted
with Van's. The important thing is to place the holes in the center of
the spars where the stress loads are neutral. I would carefully consult
with Van's before drilling any holes in spars, however.
Don Miller
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Vince Himsl
Subject: RV8-List: RV-8 Wire Conduit holes through front and rear spars
Hello,
I am starting to wire my RV-8 and would like to make a cable run that
parallels the rudder cables through both the front
and rear spar so as to avoid exposed cables in the cabin. This requires
my putting two small holes (7/16 to 5/8) a couple
inches inboard from each rudder cable spar hole on both front and rear
spars.
Surfing the net I have seen pictures of where other builders have done
same, but would like to hear from anyone who has
done this and also has received the official blessing from Van's?
Thanks!
Vince Himsl
RV8-SB Finish
N8432 reserved
=
==
==
==
==
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Garrison Sem" <chasm711(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Comm and Transponder antennae location |
Vince
That is exactly where I put mine. I used 90 degree connectors to clear the
control tube and placed them on the center line. Comm 2, the VOR and glide
slope and the marker beacon are in the wing tips.
Paul Schattauer
rv 8 #9
cargo doors (yes that's plural)
>From: "Vincent Himsl" <vhimsl(at)turbonet.com>
>Reply-To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV8-List: Comm and Transponder antennae location
>Date: Fri, 12 Dec 2003 23:07:15 -0800
>
>
>Hello,
>
>I would like to know where others have placed their Comm and Transponder
>andtenae. Specifically those who have placed them in easily accessible
>areas such as uder the front foot wells and near the first bulkhead behind
>the back seat (RV8).
>
>Naturally, I have already placed sound proofing stuff all over and will
>need
>to remove some of it.
>
>Thanks,
>Vince Himsl
>RV8 - SB Finish
>N8432 reserved
>
>
Tired of slow downloads and busy signals? Get a high-speed Internet
connection! Comparison-shop your local high-speed providers here.
https://broadband.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com> |
| Subject: | RV-8 Wire Conduit holes through front and rear spars |
Vince,
Drawing OP-11 is titled RV-8/8A WIRING HARNESS INSTALLATION and it shows
locations for holes through the center section. If you don't have or don't
want to wait for the drawing, I can spell out the locations with words and
dimensions, but that leaves a lot of room for error.
Terry
RV-8A wiring
Seattle
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Vince Himsl
Subject: RV8-List: RV-8 Wire Conduit holes through front and rear spars
Hello,
I am starting to wire my RV-8 and would like to make a cable run that
parallels the rudder cables through both the front
and rear spar so as to avoid exposed cables in the cabin. This requires my
putting two small holes (7/16 to 5/8) a couple
inches inboard from each rudder cable spar hole on both front and rear
spars.
Surfing the net I have seen pictures of where other builders have done same,
but would like to hear from anyone who has
done this and also has received the official blessing from Van's?
Thanks!
Vince Himsl
RV8-SB Finish
N8432 reserved
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)QCBC.ORG> |
, , ,
,
| Subject: | Fw: pneumatic rivet squeezer |
SUSPICIOUS_RECIPS
> > I have pneumatic rivet squeezer on eBay.
> >
> > http://tinyurl.com/y6ih
> >
> > Thanks.
> >
> > Dave DeWinter
> > Former RV6 builder and owner
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Blomgren" <jackanet(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Comm and Transponder antennae location |
Vince,
An experienced builder in our Twin Cities RV Wing suggested I place mine
both at station 48, one 2 1/2 to 3.0 inches in from the left side and the
other antenna same distance in from the right side. (Station 48 is the
near meeting place of the foot wells floor with the rear floor.) I might
fudge an inch forward to allow straight downward drilling of the two
antenna feed through holes.
Best Regards, Jack
>From: "Vincent Himsl" <vhimsl(at)turbonet.com>
>Reply-To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV8-List: Comm and Transponder antennae location
>Date: Fri, 12 Dec 2003 23:07:15 -0800
>
>
>Hello,
>
>I would like to know where others have placed their Comm and Transponder
>andtenae. Specifically those who have placed them in easily accessible
>areas such as uder the front foot wells and near the first bulkhead behind
>the back seat (RV8).
>
>Naturally, I have already placed sound proofing stuff all over and will
>need
>to remove some of it.
>
>Thanks,
>Vince Himsl
>RV8 - SB Finish
>N8432 reserved
>
>
Dont worry if your Inbox will max out while you are enjoying the holidays.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Ripley" <dougr(at)hurricanefilter.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Comm and Transponder antennae location |
I put mine in the wingtip. Ordered the antenna from Chief Aircraft. I
haven't used it yet, so I can't report on how well it works, but the
manufacturer says it will do well. If it doesn't, I'll just put one on the
belly.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Vincent Himsl" <vhimsl(at)turbonet.com>
To:
Sent: Saturday, December 13, 2003 2:07 AM
Subject: RV8-List: Comm and Transponder antennae location
>
> Hello,
>
> I would like to know where others have placed their Comm and Transponder
> andtenae. Specifically those who have placed them in easily accessible
> areas such as uder the front foot wells and near the first bulkhead
behind
> the back seat (RV8).
>
> Naturally, I have already placed sound proofing stuff all over and will
need
> to remove some of it.
>
> Thanks,
> Vince Himsl
> RV8 - SB Finish
> N8432 reserved
>
>
>
> _- >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Ken Brooks ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Ken Brooks
Subject: Whirlwind 151-series Propeller Installation
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/kenbrooks@charter.net.01.03.2004/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
4) One line Subject description:
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "C. Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> |
, ,
,
""
,
| Subject: | I made a donation & I'm registering as a Marrow donor |
Okay Guys (and Gals),
Donating was the EASY part (you can do it too, it will only hurt when my wife
aka "my banker" finds out). I also did some soul searching, cuz' it's gonna
take a lot of time & traveling, but I decided I'm gonna be tested as a donor.
I just registered and now I wait to get an appointment to be tested. I gotta
go up to Stanford Medical Center (it's the closest donor center to me) and
I'll let you all know how it goes.
I hope some other folks will consider taking the plunge, either donating $
or becoming a blood/marrow donor or both... ya'll know it's for good/deserving
people.
check out
http://www.marrow.org/HELP/join_the_registry.html
or
www.transplants.org
Take Care and Take Air my friends,
Chuck
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Al Grajek" <algrajek(at)msn.com> |
rv8-list(at)matronics.com, rv8list(at)yahoogroups.com, tomscherder(at)hotmail.com
I did a check on the electrical system with the battery hooked up today. I
am excited to say, everything checked out fine, no glitches! Going to be sad
to see the airplane leave the garage soon( I wonder if my wife feels the
same way?)
Al Grajek
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Crunkleton" <crunk12(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Getting closer |
Al, From my experience, the wife won't mind, but if you have kids, they
will!
Jim Crunkleton
N802JD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Scherder" <tomscherder(at)hotmail.com> |
Al,
I finnally got back in the swing of building. I have almost all the
construction done on the horse pool and the high class horses are beginning
to find me. I got a call tonight from a doctor/owner bringing 2 more in this
week. That means building money! I got the right wing on for the final time
today and all the tank plumbing done as well as the airelon controls. I will
have a wing incidence caliper as well as drive bolts to line up your wing
bolts available to you very soon. Let me know if you will need them. I'm
excited again. I just had to concentrate on the construction project to stay
focused enough to get it done. But now my mind is beginning to wander into
the sky again. I WIIL BE FLYING THIS SUMMER!! I finally got the avionics
shop to finish my radio stack, so now the front skin and wind screen are
also ready to finish. I can't tell you how neat it is to pull down the big
bolts on a wing. You really feel like it's becoming an airplane. I talked to
the FAA inspector at length at a EAA meeting and learned a hell of a lot
about the certification process and some do's and don'ts about the initial
paperwork. This guy is really here to help, unlike many in the FAA. The
first thing he told me was that he gives RV's a 75 mile test range because
he knows we couldn't ever stay inside a 25 mile range that most other
experimentals get. He told me to get it done before he sees it. Leave the
back of the rear bagadge compartment unsecured and all the inspection plates
open. He said I should run the engine and even do some taxi runs if we want
before he sees it. He will only look at it once. After that we are on our
own. When we run off the hours we simply log it and we are free! If you want
to wait to do the aeirobatic testing till later you simply go back into your
original test area and log what manuevers you did, and your good. A change
if the FARS now allows us to fly over populated areas like any certified
aircraft. The guys name is Stan Faske and he will answer any of your
questions with a smile. He really likes homebuilt aircraft.
See ya later,
Tom
>From: "Al Grajek" <algrajek(at)msn.com>
>Reply-To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>To: sears(at)searnet.com, OhioValleyRVators(at)yahoogroups.com, PASSPAT(at)aol.com,
> rv8-list(at)matronics.com, rv8list(at)yahoogroups.com, tomscherder(at)hotmail.com
>Subject: RV8-List: Getting closer
>Date: Thu, 08 Jan 2004 16:47:58 -0500
>
>
>I did a check on the electrical system with the battery hooked up today. I
>am excited to say, everything checked out fine, no glitches! Going to be
>sad
>to see the airplane leave the garage soon( I wonder if my wife feels the
>same way?)
>Al Grajek
>
>
High-speed usersbe more efficient online with the new MSN Premium Internet
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vince Himsl" <vhimsl(at)turbonet.com> |
| Subject: | Fuel Primer Aluminum 3003-0 tubing |
Hello,
I have an Aerosport engine that was shipped with the superior air parts stainless
steel primer lines and brass fittings
(not installed). I am trying to complete the installation but am confused as to
the type of tubing to get to run from the
brass tee at engine (requires the AN800-2 cone fitting and nut) to the wicks/primer
solenoid on the firewall.
I was going to use aluminum 3003-0 tubing but am unsure as to suitability with
the cone kit sold by Wicks and Spruce.
In short, has anyone used the 3003 aluminum tubing from the engine to the primer
solenoid/pump and if so, how did you
attach the an800-2 union cone (pg 109 Spruce 2003 cat.)
My fall back is copper but would like to go with aluminum if possible.
Pictures welcome.
Thanks!
Vince Himsl
RV-8 SB Finish
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wayne Berg" <wfberg(at)msn.com> |
Has anyone installed gyros designed for vertical mount in the RV-8 with an 8 deg.
panel? Is there a problem with turn precession?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Ripley" <dougr(at)hurricanefilter.com> |
Wayne,
I have not, but I did recently purchase a horizon from Chief with 8 degree
tilt.....it's on the slow boat from China (literally). I spoke with Van's
about it, and they said the only problem with using standard horizon is that
the instrument won't quite calibrate to zero using the little airplane that
moves up and down with the knob (can somone help me out with the technical
lingo here?!?) He said that there is no problem with the turn coordinator
or DG.
The non-TSO'd horizon with 8 degree tilt from Chief is a great deal. Just
takes 4 months to get it.
Doug
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wayne Berg" <wfberg(at)msn.com>
Subject: RV8-List: Gyros
>
> Has anyone installed gyros designed for vertical mount in the RV-8 with an
8 deg. panel? Is there a problem with turn precession?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
I would like to purchase an RV8
JB Jones
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 01/15/04 |
Thanks to those who replied to my post expressing my interest in purchasing
an RV8
I apologize for brevity in my last post. I should have made clear I am
interested in buying a completed, flying RV8.
JB Jones
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Noel & Yoshie Simmons" <noel(at)blueskyaviation.net> |
"Rv9-List(at)Matronics. Com" ,
"Rv-List(at)Matronics. Com" ,
"rvyahoo" ,
"Rv7-List(at)Matronics. Com" ,
"Rv6-List(at)Matronics. Com"
List,
Have cash! I am looking for a good airframe or project that has been
meticulously built. Does not mater were the setter wheel is preferably a 6
or higher airframe. Please respond with email.
Sincerely,
Noel Simmons
Blue Sky Aviation, Inc.
Phone & Fax: 406-538-6574
noel(at)blueskyaviation.net
www.blueskyaviation.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | chuck petersen <cat2fly(at)yahoo.com> |
As usual, the builder starts with the empennage, and that is where most of the
defects are..........and I have an untouched empennage in the box from Vans............bot
this partially done kit last May and have not gotten around to doing
anything on it. It is an 8A QB, was going to convert it to an 8. Will
sell with the extra empennage for $15,000.
Located 20 minutes north of O'Hare if you want to see it. Wings covered. Some
of the fuselsage work done up to putting in the floor........
Chuck Petersen Cell 847 477 3749
Noel & Yoshie Simmons wrote:
List,
Have cash! I am looking for a good airframe or project that has been
meticulously built. Does not mater were the setter wheel is preferably a 6
or higher airframe. Please respond with email.
Sincerely,
Noel Simmons
Blue Sky Aviation, Inc.
Phone & Fax: 406-538-6574
noel(at)blueskyaviation.net
www.blueskyaviation.net
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Doug Ritter <d.d.ritter(at)verizon.net> |
Chuck-
I'm about ready to order my RV8 fus kit - would you be interested in
seperating your collection. Also I have a beautiful classic 1976 MGB
sports car I would ad to a deal. Pics available. I'm in Alexandria, VA
(Wash., DC) 703-360-5219
Doug Ritter.
>
>As usual, the builder starts with the empennage, and that is where most of
>the defects are..........and I have an untouched empennage in the box from
>Vans............bot this partially done kit last May and have not gotten
>around to doing anything on it. It is an 8A QB, was going to convert it
>to an 8. Will sell with the extra empennage for $15,000.
>Located 20 minutes north of O'Hare if you want to see it. Wings
>covered. Some of the fuselsage work done up to putting in the floor........
>Chuck Petersen Cell 847 477 3749
>
>Noel & Yoshie Simmons wrote:
>
>List,
>
>
>Have cash! I am looking for a good airframe or project that has been
>meticulously built. Does not mater were the setter wheel is preferably a 6
>or higher airframe. Please respond with email.
>
>
>Sincerely,
>
>Noel Simmons
>Blue Sky Aviation, Inc.
>Phone & Fax: 406-538-6574
>noel(at)blueskyaviation.net
>www.blueskyaviation.net
>
>
>---------------------------------
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | chuck petersen <cat2fly(at)yahoo.com> |
Make me an offer..........the fuselage is in very good shape.......
Chuck 847 477 3749
Doug Ritter wrote:
Chuck-
I'm about ready to order my RV8 fus kit - would you be interested in
seperating your collection. Also I have a beautiful classic 1976 MGB
sports car I would ad to a deal. Pics available. I'm in Alexandria, VA
(Wash., DC) 703-360-5219
Doug Ritter.
>
>As usual, the builder starts with the empennage, and that is where most of
>the defects are..........and I have an untouched empennage in the box from
>Vans............bot this partially done kit last May and have not gotten
>around to doing anything on it. It is an 8A QB, was going to convert it
>to an 8. Will sell with the extra empennage for $15,000.
>Located 20 minutes north of O'Hare if you want to see it. Wings
>covered. Some of the fuselsage work done up to putting in the floor........
>Chuck Petersen Cell 847 477 3749
>
>Noel & Yoshie Simmons wrote:
>
>List,
>
>
>Have cash! I am looking for a good airframe or project that has been
>meticulously built. Does not mater were the setter wheel is preferably a 6
>or higher airframe. Please respond with email.
>
>
>Sincerely,
>
>Noel Simmons
>Blue Sky Aviation, Inc.
>Phone & Fax: 406-538-6574
>noel(at)blueskyaviation.net
>www.blueskyaviation.net
>
>
>---------------------------------
>
>
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Speedy11(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Autopilot Servo Installation |
Has anyone bought and installed the Blue Mountain autopilot servos?
The pitch servo is easy to figure out, but the only place I can see to put
the aileron servo is in the wing. Has anyone found a good place to mount it?
It's much larger than the Tru Track servo.
I'm open to ideas.
Stan Sutterfield
Tampa, FL
RV-8A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Stroud" <davestroud(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | 310 hp Lyc for sale |
Good morning lads. Sorry for this one time intrusion to the list. I have a friend
with two, Lycoming 310 hp
TIO540A2C engines for sale. 700 SMOH, complete firewall forward inlcuding mount
and controls, less props
as removed. Props available separately. Offers are requested from interested parties..failing
that, they'll go to ebay.
Please email me privately if interested. I think it will be a bargain. Thanks.
Dave Stroud
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ed OConnor <Edwardoconnor(at)mac.com> |
installed the Blue Mountain autopilot servos?
The pitch servo is easy to figure out, but the only place I can see to
put
the aileron servo is in the wing. Has anyone found a good place to
mount it?
It's much larger than the Tru Track servo.
I'm open to ideas.
Stan Sutterfield
Tampa, FL
RV-8A
I mounted mine under the panel on the right side just outside of my
right knee. You can see a picture at
<http://homepage.mac.com/edwardoconnor/PhotoAlbum4.html> If you need
more detail let me know.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LARRY RUSH" <K9HXT(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: BMA Servos/RV-8 |
Haven't seen that one, but if it is not any larger than the NAVAID I mounted mine
under the pilot's seat in rt. outboard bay about 6" behind the aileron push
rod. Be sure it is back far enough to clear the foot well. I drive the big fore
and aft tube that connects the two sticks.
Larry, flyn a 6A & buildn a 8
----- Original Message -----
From: Ed OConnor
To: RV8-List(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, January 21, 2004 9:11 AM
Subject: RV8-List: BMA Servos/RV-8
installed the Blue Mountain autopilot servos?
The pitch servo is easy to figure out, but the only place I can see to
put
the aileron servo is in the wing. Has anyone found a good place to
mount it?
It's much larger than the Tru Track servo.
I'm open to ideas.
Stan Sutterfield
Tampa, FL
RV-8A
I mounted mine under the panel on the right side just outside of my
right knee. You can see a picture at
<http://homepage.mac.com/edwardoconnor/PhotoAlbum4.html> If you need
more detail let me know.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jerry" <jerry(at)mc.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 310 hp Lyc for sale |
Hi Dave ...
What is the price for one of the engines? I will put it into an RV10. Where
is the engine located? I'm in Illinois and can pick it up if we can strike
a deal. This would be a cash deal. May be interested in the prop if a deal
can be made.
Reach me at 847-669-0939 also jerry(at)mc.net
Thanks for your good efforts.
Jerry Grimmonpre Huntley Illinois
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Stroud" <davestroud(at)rogers.com>
Subject: RV8-List: 310 hp Lyc for sale
>
> Good morning lads. Sorry for this one time intrusion to the list. I have a
friend with two, Lycoming 310 hp
> TIO540A2C engines for sale. 700 SMOH, complete firewall forward inlcuding
mount and controls, less props
> as removed. Props available separately. Offers are requested from
interested parties..failing that, they'll go to ebay.
> Please email me privately if interested. I think it will be a bargain.
Thanks.
>
> Dave Stroud
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Stroud" <davestroud(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 310 hp Lyc for sale |
My buddy is trying to figure a fair price for them right now, Jerry. I'll
keep
you in touch with the progress. The engines are in Ottawa, On. Canada
about 5 hours East of Toronto. One prop is believed sold.
Dave Stroud
----- Original Message -----
From: "jerry" <jerry(at)mc.net>
Subject: Re: RV8-List: 310 hp Lyc for sale
>
> Hi Dave ...
> What is the price for one of the engines? I will put it into an RV10.
Where
> is the engine located? I'm in Illinois and can pick it up if we can
strike
> a deal. This would be a cash deal. May be interested in the prop if a
deal
> can be made.
>
> Reach me at 847-669-0939 also jerry(at)mc.net
> Thanks for your good efforts.
> Jerry Grimmonpre Huntley Illinois
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "David Stroud" <davestroud(at)rogers.com>
> To:
> Subject: RV8-List: 310 hp Lyc for sale
>
>
> >
> > Good morning lads. Sorry for this one time intrusion to the list. I have
a
> friend with two, Lycoming 310 hp
> > TIO540A2C engines for sale. 700 SMOH, complete firewall forward
inlcuding
> mount and controls, less props
> > as removed. Props available separately. Offers are requested from
> interested parties..failing that, they'll go to ebay.
> > Please email me privately if interested. I think it will be a bargain.
> Thanks.
> >
> > Dave Stroud
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Autopilot Servo Installation |
| From: | Michael Stephan <mstephan(at)shr.net> |
There are a few wing install pictures on the BMA discussion list under
"installation in a van's rv". Although I think if shoe-horned correctly
could fit under the pilot's seat.
--
Michael Stephan
> From: Speedy11(at)aol.com
> Reply-To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2004 02:12:37 EST
> To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV8-List: Autopilot Servo Installation
>
>
> Has anyone bought and installed the Blue Mountain autopilot servos?
>
> The pitch servo is easy to figure out, but the only place I can see to put
> the aileron servo is in the wing. Has anyone found a good place to mount it?
> It's much larger than the Tru Track servo.
>
> I'm open to ideas.
>
> Stan Sutterfield
> Tampa, FL
> RV-8A
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Steve Glasgow ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Steve Glasgow
Subject: N123SG Photos
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/willfly@carolina.rr.com.02.22.2004/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
4) One line Subject description:
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Crunkleton" <crunk12(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: [ Steve Glasgow ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
Steve,
Congratulations! That's a good looking bird!
Jim Crunkleton
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Al Grajek" <algrajek(at)msn.com> |
Hey,Tom!
I have been pretty busy, also. I hope to move to the airport cery soon. Yes,
I would love to have the drive bolts and the caliper. Will you be at the
airport this weekend? If so, I may fly up to Lunkent to see you. Let me
know.
Al
>From: "Tom Scherder" <tomscherder(at)hotmail.com>
>Reply-To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV8-List: Getting closer
>Date: Sun, 11 Jan 2004 23:12:44 -0500
>
>
>Al,
>I finnally got back in the swing of building. I have almost all the
>construction done on the horse pool and the high class horses are beginning
>to find me. I got a call tonight from a doctor/owner bringing 2 more in
>this
>week. That means building money! I got the right wing on for the final time
>today and all the tank plumbing done as well as the airelon controls. I
>will
>have a wing incidence caliper as well as drive bolts to line up your wing
>bolts available to you very soon. Let me know if you will need them. I'm
>excited again. I just had to concentrate on the construction project to
>stay
>focused enough to get it done. But now my mind is beginning to wander into
>the sky again. I WIIL BE FLYING THIS SUMMER!! I finally got the avionics
>shop to finish my radio stack, so now the front skin and wind screen are
>also ready to finish. I can't tell you how neat it is to pull down the big
>bolts on a wing. You really feel like it's becoming an airplane. I talked
>to
>the FAA inspector at length at a EAA meeting and learned a hell of a lot
>about the certification process and some do's and don'ts about the initial
>paperwork. This guy is really here to help, unlike many in the FAA. The
>first thing he told me was that he gives RV's a 75 mile test range because
>he knows we couldn't ever stay inside a 25 mile range that most other
>experimentals get. He told me to get it done before he sees it. Leave the
>back of the rear bagadge compartment unsecured and all the inspection
>plates
>open. He said I should run the engine and even do some taxi runs if we want
>before he sees it. He will only look at it once. After that we are on our
>own. When we run off the hours we simply log it and we are free! If you
>want
>to wait to do the aeirobatic testing till later you simply go back into
>your
>original test area and log what manuevers you did, and your good. A change
>if the FARS now allows us to fly over populated areas like any certified
>aircraft. The guys name is Stan Faske and he will answer any of your
>questions with a smile. He really likes homebuilt aircraft.
>See ya later,
>Tom
>
>
> >From: "Al Grajek" <algrajek(at)msn.com>
> >Reply-To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
> >To: sears(at)searnet.com, OhioValleyRVators(at)yahoogroups.com,
>PASSPAT(at)aol.com,
> > rv8-list(at)matronics.com, rv8list(at)yahoogroups.com,
>tomscherder(at)hotmail.com
> >Subject: RV8-List: Getting closer
> >Date: Thu, 08 Jan 2004 16:47:58 -0500
> >
> >
> >I did a check on the electrical system with the battery hooked up today.
>I
> >am excited to say, everything checked out fine, no glitches! Going to be
> >sad
> >to see the airplane leave the garage soon( I wonder if my wife feels the
> >same way?)
> >Al Grajek
> >
> >
>
>High-speed usersbe more efficient online with the new MSN Premium Internet
>
>
High-speed usersbe more efficient online with the new MSN Premium Internet
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: [ Steve Glasgow ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
In a message dated 1/23/2004 12:49:13 AM Eastern Standard Time,
pictures(at)matronics.com writes:
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/willfly@carolina.rr.com.02.22.2004/index.h
tml
where do the machine guns go?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Scherder" <tomscherder(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Getting closer |
Al,
I hope to be at the airort on Sunday to get the left wing on. I resealed
the sender and flop tube last week so it is ready to mount. I will need the
bolts and caliper til I get both wings on but after that they're yours. It
might save you a couple hours. It's pretty amazing how tight the wings fit
and how solid they are once the bolts are in.The plane also takes on that"
I'm an airplane "attitude when the wings are on.
Call me if you get some time.
Tom
----- Original Message -----
From: "Al Grajek" <algrajek(at)msn.com>
Subject: RE: RV8-List: Getting closer
>
> Hey,Tom!
> I have been pretty busy, also. I hope to move to the airport cery soon.
Yes,
> I would love to have the drive bolts and the caliper. Will you be at the
> airport this weekend? If so, I may fly up to Lunkent to see you. Let me
> know.
> Al
>
>
> >From: "Tom Scherder" <tomscherder(at)hotmail.com>
> >Reply-To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
> >To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
> >Subject: RE: RV8-List: Getting closer
> >Date: Sun, 11 Jan 2004 23:12:44 -0500
> >
> >
> >Al,
> >I finnally got back in the swing of building. I have almost all the
> >construction done on the horse pool and the high class horses are
beginning
> >to find me. I got a call tonight from a doctor/owner bringing 2 more in
> >this
> >week. That means building money! I got the right wing on for the final
time
> >today and all the tank plumbing done as well as the airelon controls. I
> >will
> >have a wing incidence caliper as well as drive bolts to line up your wing
> >bolts available to you very soon. Let me know if you will need them. I'm
> >excited again. I just had to concentrate on the construction project to
> >stay
> >focused enough to get it done. But now my mind is beginning to wander
into
> >the sky again. I WIIL BE FLYING THIS SUMMER!! I finally got the avionics
> >shop to finish my radio stack, so now the front skin and wind screen are
> >also ready to finish. I can't tell you how neat it is to pull down the
big
> >bolts on a wing. You really feel like it's becoming an airplane. I talked
> >to
> >the FAA inspector at length at a EAA meeting and learned a hell of a lot
> >about the certification process and some do's and don'ts about the
initial
> >paperwork. This guy is really here to help, unlike many in the FAA. The
> >first thing he told me was that he gives RV's a 75 mile test range
because
> >he knows we couldn't ever stay inside a 25 mile range that most other
> >experimentals get. He told me to get it done before he sees it. Leave the
> >back of the rear bagadge compartment unsecured and all the inspection
> >plates
> >open. He said I should run the engine and even do some taxi runs if we
want
> >before he sees it. He will only look at it once. After that we are on our
> >own. When we run off the hours we simply log it and we are free! If you
> >want
> >to wait to do the aeirobatic testing till later you simply go back into
> >your
> >original test area and log what manuevers you did, and your good. A
change
> >if the FARS now allows us to fly over populated areas like any certified
> >aircraft. The guys name is Stan Faske and he will answer any of your
> >questions with a smile. He really likes homebuilt aircraft.
> >See ya later,
> >Tom
> >
> >
> > >From: "Al Grajek" <algrajek(at)msn.com>
> > >Reply-To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
> > >To: sears(at)searnet.com, OhioValleyRVators(at)yahoogroups.com,
> >PASSPAT(at)aol.com,
> > > rv8-list(at)matronics.com, rv8list(at)yahoogroups.com,
> >tomscherder(at)hotmail.com
> > >Subject: RV8-List: Getting closer
> > >Date: Thu, 08 Jan 2004 16:47:58 -0500
> > >
> > >
> > >I did a check on the electrical system with the battery hooked up
today.
> >I
> > >am excited to say, everything checked out fine, no glitches! Going to
be
> > >sad
> > >to see the airplane leave the garage soon( I wonder if my wife feels
the
> > >same way?)
> > >Al Grajek
> > >
> > >
> >
> >High-speed usersbe more efficient online with the new MSN Premium
Internet
> >
> >
>
> High-speed usersbe more efficient online with the new MSN Premium Internet
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | landing gear bracket fit issue |
http://hometown.aol.com/rv8ter/index.html
Here's a couple of pictures I took today. I struggled to try to get the
backets to line up even half-way decently and failed. The gear itself measures
out dead on with the plum bobs but then the brackes look WAY OFF as a result. I
have have to move the gear back towards the tail to achieve this. When I
center the brackets in the opening just for grins, the gear has toe in.
Is this common? It's a QB fuse with Van's gear.
thanks,
lucky
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott Clarkson" <sclarkson(at)tellurian.net> |
| Subject: | Re: landing gear bracket fit issue |
Hi Lucky,
It looks like you made the number one mistake by quickbuilders. After you
inverted the plane did you level the floor or the bottom skin? I did the
same thing and after reading Van's plans for the 100th time I realized that
in the slow build version the floor is on at this point and not the belly
skin when doing the gear. If you leveled the belly skin instead of the
floor (they're not parallel) it will do exactly what your gear did. I found
out the hard way. I think Van's should have clarified this because I know
several QBuilders who have fell into this trap.
Scott "I hate fiberglass" Clarkson
----- Original Message -----
From: <RV8ter(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV8-List: landing gear bracket fit issue
>
> http://hometown.aol.com/rv8ter/index.html
>
> Here's a couple of pictures I took today. I struggled to try to get the
> backets to line up even half-way decently and failed. The gear itself
measures
> out dead on with the plum bobs but then the brackes look WAY OFF as a
result. I
> have have to move the gear back towards the tail to achieve this. When I
> center the brackets in the opening just for grins, the gear has toe in.
>
> Is this common? It's a QB fuse with Van's gear.
>
> thanks,
> lucky
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: landing gear bracket fit issue |
Thanks,
You are the second to ask this question and the answer is yes I did measure
to the bottom belly skin. In the beginning of today's might battle I did
remove the hinge pin on the cooling ramp or whatever that thing's called and try
to
level from the floor skin underneath per the instructions but I didn't have a
level that could get in there. I did my best to estimate whether or not the
belly skin was parallel and I guessed that it was close enough. I guess I
guessed wrong.
So, how do you level to the floor skin when it's not accessable? Is there a
known amount of degrees I can lower the tail by to get close to a level floor
condition?
Nothing like taking a 2 hour job and turning it into an 8 hour head banger.
thanks again,
lucky
In a message dated 1/24/2004 7:55:12 PM Eastern Standard Time,
sclarkson(at)tellurian.net writes:
Hi Lucky,
It looks like you made the number one mistake by quickbuilders. After you
inverted the plane did you level the floor or the bottom skin? I did the
same thing and after reading Van's plans for the 100th time I realized that
in the slow build version the floor is on at this point and not the belly
skin when doing the gear. If you leveled the belly skin instead of the
floor (they're not parallel) it will do exactly what your gear did. I found
out the hard way. I think Van's should have clarified this because I know
several QBuilders who have fell into this trap.
Scott "I hate fiberglass" Clarkson
----- Original Message -----
From: <RV8ter(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV8-List: landing gear bracket fit issue
>
> http://hometown.aol.com/rv8ter/index.html
>
> Here's a couple of pictures I took today. I struggled to try to get the
> backets to line up even half-way decently and failed. The gear itself
measures
> out dead on with the plum bobs but then the brackes look WAY OFF as a
result. I
> have have to move the gear back towards the tail to achieve this. When I
> center the brackets in the opening just for grins, the gear has toe in.
>
> Is this common? It's a QB fuse with Van's gear.
>
> thanks,
> lucky
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: landing gear bracket fit issue |
follow up. I found a small torpedo level, opened up the ramp hatch and stuck
it on the REAL floor skin. I resulted in probably a drop of an inch at the
tail to get level. Unfortunately, I can't say that it help the darn brackets
lining up any better. Maybe I was able to slide the gear a 1/16 of an unch
further forward to get the plumb bobs all lined back up again :-(
unlucky
In a message dated 1/24/2004 7:55:12 PM Eastern Standard Time,
sclarkson(at)tellurian.net writes:
Lucky,
It looks like you made the number one mistake by quickbuilders. After you
inverted the plane did you level the floor or the bottom skin? I did the
same thing and after reading Van's plans for the 100th time I realized that
in the slow build version the floor is on at this point and not the belly
skin when doing the gear. If you leveled the belly skin instead of the
floor (they're not parallel) it will do exactly what your gear did. I found
out the hard way. I think Van's should have clarified this because I know
several QBuilders who have fell into this trap.
Scott "I hate fiberglass" Clarkson
----- Original Message -----
From: <RV8ter(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV8-List: landing gear bracket fit issue
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott Clarkson" <sclarkson(at)tellurian.net> |
| Subject: | Re: landing gear bracket fit issue |
(Un)Lucky,
If my memory serves me correctly and since the plane was sitting high enough
off of the floor I think I crawled under the plane and put my Smartlevel
directly of the floor skin to level it. This made quite a difference in my
case and the gear fell in where they should be.
Scott Clarkson
----- Original Message -----
From: <RV8ter(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV8-List: landing gear bracket fit issue
>
> Thanks,
> You are the second to ask this question and the answer is yes I did
measure
> to the bottom belly skin. In the beginning of today's might battle I did
> remove the hinge pin on the cooling ramp or whatever that thing's called
and try to
> level from the floor skin underneath per the instructions but I didn't
have a
> level that could get in there. I did my best to estimate whether or not
the
> belly skin was parallel and I guessed that it was close enough. I guess I
> guessed wrong.
>
> So, how do you level to the floor skin when it's not accessable? Is there
a
> known amount of degrees I can lower the tail by to get close to a level
floor
> condition?
>
>
> Nothing like taking a 2 hour job and turning it into an 8 hour head
banger.
>
> thanks again,
> lucky
> In a message dated 1/24/2004 7:55:12 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> sclarkson(at)tellurian.net writes:
>
> Hi Lucky,
> It looks like you made the number one mistake by quickbuilders. After you
> inverted the plane did you level the floor or the bottom skin? I did the
> same thing and after reading Van's plans for the 100th time I realized
that
> in the slow build version the floor is on at this point and not the belly
> skin when doing the gear. If you leveled the belly skin instead of the
> floor (they're not parallel) it will do exactly what your gear did. I
found
> out the hard way. I think Van's should have clarified this because I know
> several QBuilders who have fell into this trap.
> Scott "I hate fiberglass" Clarkson
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <RV8ter(at)aol.com>
> To: ;
> Subject: RV8-List: landing gear bracket fit issue
>
>
> >
> > http://hometown.aol.com/rv8ter/index.html
> >
> > Here's a couple of pictures I took today. I struggled to try to get the
> > backets to line up even half-way decently and failed. The gear itself
> measures
> > out dead on with the plum bobs but then the brackes look WAY OFF as a
> result. I
> > have have to move the gear back towards the tail to achieve this. When
I
> > center the brackets in the opening just for grins, the gear has toe in.
> >
> > Is this common? It's a QB fuse with Van's gear.
> >
> > thanks,
> > lucky
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: landing gear bracket fit issue |
Thanks. Is there general agreement that the 3/16 edge distance from the
side of the fuselage to the outer wear bracket isn't enough to avoid washer/nut
clearance issues on the inside of the fuselage? I think Randy Lervold
suggested 3/8 was a more practical.
In a message dated 1/24/2004 9:53:31 PM Eastern Standard Time,
sclarkson(at)tellurian.net writes:
(Un)Lucky,
If my memory serves me correctly and since the plane was sitting high enough
off of the floor I think I crawled under the plane and put my Smartlevel
directly of the floor skin to level it. This made quite a difference in my
case and the gear fell in where they should be.
Scott Clarkson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "colin jordan" <cjordan(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re Landing gear bracket |
I had the same problem with the brackets on my slow build kit .It's an early one
[80255] .I had the a/c level but could not get the strings to line up and get
the same distance to the tail.If I lined up all the strings then one gear was
way back, if I got the distance to the tailright then only three of the strings
lined up.
I ended up clamping two piecec of angle 2"x2"x24"to the gear at the axle face then
squared the gear by measuring the distance at the front and back of the two
angle then measured the distance from the gear leg at a point near the axle
face to the tail to centre to check equal distance on both sides.
I phoned Vans before I drilled any holes and they said what I was doing was perhaps
even better than the strin and plumb bob method!
They also said that the gear legs are now sent out as matched pairs but early on
they were not, so I may of had one of the unmatched sets.
Hope this helps, I have a picture if you need clarification.
Colin.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "lucky macy" <luckymacy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | HRII or Team Rocket replacement fiberglass |
Which company is it that some folks upgrade their Van's landing gear
fiberglass landing gear fairings with?
One of these, if not both, is supposed to have a thicker fiberglass layup or
something like that...
thanks,
lucky
>From: "colin jordan" <cjordan(at)telus.net>
>Reply-To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV8-List: Re Landing gear bracket
>Date: Mon, 26 Jan 2004 09:06:33 -0800
>
>
>I had the same problem with the brackets on my slow build kit .It's an
>early one [80255] .I had the a/c level but could not get the strings to
>line up and get the same distance to the tail.If I lined up all the strings
>then one gear was way back, if I got the distance to the tailright then
>only three of the strings lined up.
>I ended up clamping two piecec of angle 2"x2"x24"to the gear at the axle
>face then squared the gear by measuring the distance at the front and back
>of the two angle then measured the distance from the gear leg at a point
>near the axle face to the tail to centre to check equal distance on both
>sides.
>I phoned Vans before I drilled any holes and they said what I was doing was
>perhaps even better than the strin and plumb bob method!
>They also said that the gear legs are now sent out as matched pairs but
>early on they were not, so I may of had one of the unmatched sets.
>Hope this helps, I have a picture if you need clarification.
>Colin.
>
>
Get a FREE online virus check for your PC here, from McAfee.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "lucky macy" <luckymacy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re Landing gear bracket |
thanks.
i just bit the bullet and drilled when things got to within 1/8 inch
alignment. I did get more than the 3/16 edge distance and I did have to
cut away some of the nutplate material and surrounding belly skin to get
access to the rear holes for the bolt heads.
>From: "colin jordan" <cjordan(at)telus.net>
>Reply-To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV8-List: Re Landing gear bracket
>Date: Mon, 26 Jan 2004 09:06:33 -0800
>
>
>I had the same problem with the brackets on my slow build kit .It's an
>early one [80255] .I had the a/c level but could not get the strings to
>line up and get the same distance to the tail.If I lined up all the strings
>then one gear was way back, if I got the distance to the tailright then
>only three of the strings lined up.
>I ended up clamping two piecec of angle 2"x2"x24"to the gear at the axle
>face then squared the gear by measuring the distance at the front and back
>of the two angle then measured the distance from the gear leg at a point
>near the axle face to the tail to centre to check equal distance on both
>sides.
>I phoned Vans before I drilled any holes and they said what I was doing was
>perhaps even better than the strin and plumb bob method!
>They also said that the gear legs are now sent out as matched pairs but
>early on they were not, so I may of had one of the unmatched sets.
>Hope this helps, I have a picture if you need clarification.
>Colin.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Becker" <ctbecker(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Re Landing gear bracket |
http://www.groveaircraft.com/ makes a solid gear. 10-14lbs lighter than
Vans
Charles Becker
N474CB - RV8A
Empennage
----- Original Message -----
From: "lucky macy" <luckymacy(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: RV8-List: Re Landing gear bracket
>
> thanks.
>
> i just bit the bullet and drilled when things got to within 1/8 inch
> alignment. I did get more than the 3/16 edge distance and I did have to
> cut away some of the nutplate material and surrounding belly skin to get
> access to the rear holes for the bolt heads.
>
>
> >From: "colin jordan" <cjordan(at)telus.net>
> >Reply-To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
> >To:
> >Subject: RV8-List: Re Landing gear bracket
> >Date: Mon, 26 Jan 2004 09:06:33 -0800
> >
> >
> >I had the same problem with the brackets on my slow build kit .It's an
> >early one [80255] .I had the a/c level but could not get the strings to
> >line up and get the same distance to the tail.If I lined up all the
strings
> >then one gear was way back, if I got the distance to the tailright then
> >only three of the strings lined up.
> >I ended up clamping two piecec of angle 2"x2"x24"to the gear at the axle
> >face then squared the gear by measuring the distance at the front and
back
> >of the two angle then measured the distance from the gear leg at a point
> >near the axle face to the tail to centre to check equal distance on both
> >sides.
> >I phoned Vans before I drilled any holes and they said what I was doing
was
> >perhaps even better than the strin and plumb bob method!
> >They also said that the gear legs are now sent out as matched pairs but
> >early on they were not, so I may of had one of the unmatched sets.
> >Hope this helps, I have a picture if you need clarification.
> >Colin.
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vince Himsl" <vhimsl(at)turbonet.com> |
| Subject: | Aerosport Engine Bolt Torque Values |
Hello,
I need to install ignition coils (Lightspeed) on my engine and it looks like I
will need to remove the hoist loop and
install them there. Also, to install the primer system, I will need to remove
some bolts on the bottom of the engine to
install the primer line Adel Clamps.
Question: Can one who has done this pass on the bolt torque values at these locations?
Also can someone steer me to a site (preferred) or publication that will list these
and other misc. engine torque values,
etc.?
I am hoping I do not have to become a Lycoming engine expert just to mount a few
items....
Thanks,
Vince Himsl,
RV8-SB Finish
"Aerosport and Lightspeed, but still procrastinating on the canopy!"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Bean <jim-bean(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Aerosport Engine Bolt Torque Values |
The overhaul manual dosn't list either of these specifically, so you use
the default table. I think they are 5/16 but don't remember the size for
sure so here is a range:
Size Torque
---- ------
10 49 ip
1/4 96 ip
5/16 204 ip
3/8 360 ip
Jim Bean
RV-8
Getting close...
Vince Himsl wrote:
>
> Hello,
>
> I need to install ignition coils (Lightspeed) on my engine and it looks like
I will need to remove the hoist loop and
> install them there. Also, to install the primer system, I will need to remove
some bolts on the bottom of the engine to
> install the primer line Adel Clamps.
>
> Question: Can one who has done this pass on the bolt torque values at these locations?
>
> Also can someone steer me to a site (preferred) or publication that will list
these and other misc. engine torque values,
> etc.?
>
> I am hoping I do not have to become a Lycoming engine expert just to mount a
few items....
>
> Thanks,
>
> Vince Himsl,
> RV8-SB Finish
>
> "Aerosport and Lightspeed, but still procrastinating on the canopy!"
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> |
| Subject: | Re Landing gear bracket |
I like the looks of the Grove landing gear, but I'm at a loss about what to
do with the steel landing gear that came with the RV-8. Any suggestions? I
understand the Van's will not take the steel gear legs back. I saw something
in the RVAtor about a four wheeler ....
Stephen Soule
Swanton, Vermont
RV-6A N227RV flying
RV-8 N222SZ under construction
-----Original Message-----
From: Charles Becker [mailto:ctbecker(at)charter.net]
http://www.groveaircraft.com/ makes a solid gear. 10-14lbs lighter than
Vans
Charles Becker
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Greg Gruninger ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Greg Gruninger
Subject: Completed RV-8!
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/GGrun5673@gbronline.com.01.31.2004/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
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Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Rob Ray ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Rob Ray
Subject: RV-FOUR (Editor's Note: WOW!!)
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/smokyray@yahoo.com.01.31.2004/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
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Email the information above and your files and photos to:
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Jerry Calvert ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Jerry Calvert
Subject: Leather Interior
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/rv6@cox.net.01.31.2004/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
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Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DENISE CAINE" <denisecaine(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | I have a new email address at BellSouth.net |
Hello, I have a new email address at denisecaine(at)bellsouth.net
What are the 5 hot job markets for 2004? Click here to find out.
http://msn.careerbuilder.com/Custom/MSN/CareerAdvice/WPI_WhereWillWeFindJobsIn2004.htm?siteid=CBMSN3006&sc_extcmp=JS_wi08_dec03_hotmail1
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DENISE CAINE" <denisecaine(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | I have a new email address at BellSouth.net |
Hello, I have a new email address at denisecaine(at)bellsouth.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Chalkie Stobbart+ ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Chalkie Stobbart+
Subject: Canopy and winshield attachment with Sika adhesive.
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/cajole76@ispwest.com.02.01.2004/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
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Email the information above and your files and photos to:
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Chalkie Stobbart ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Chalkie Stobbart
Subject: RV-List article applicable to all RV's and all Plexiglas canopies.
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/chalkboy@mweb.co.za.02.01.2004/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
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If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
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Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Frank Friedman" <frankzip(at)charter.net> |
, ,
, ,
, ,
, ,
| Subject: | RV8 Tail Kit for sale |
Changed projects so RV 8 tail kit for sale. Very little work done. This is a pre
punched kit, however it was before the 4130 parts were powder coated. All 4130
parts were primered.
Included are preview plans, electric trim kit, 18 years of the RVaitor, Avery temporary
assembly pins, 2 construction videos. Vertical stabilizer tip is for
a rear position light. Cost for all of this now would be about $1775.
Buy it now for $1200. plus shipping before I put it on ebay. Bonus, free delivery
within 100 miles of Oshkosh.
Yep guys,I'm in OSH, 8-10 minutes to the airport, the downside, Jan temps, 17 days
below normal and 4-5 inches of snow last night.
Frank at 920-237-3536 or frankzip(at)charter.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michel Gordillo" <michelgordillo(at)telefonica.net> |
| Subject: | Priming / painting |
Hi.
My QB fuselage came with a kind of aluminium priming brushed, providing a
steel grey color to the surface.
What kind of primer is that and can I paint over it or do I have to prepare
somehow the surface ?
Thank you very much
Michel Gordillo
RV8 tail complete.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PeterHunt1(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Priming / painting |
Michael,
My QB RV-6 also came with the "aluminum priming brushed" you described. Van
told me this is an interior primer and needs no further paint cover. However,
I decided to paint the cockpit area, but didn't prepare Van's primer well. I
just wiped it down which wasn't enough and my paint pealed off in many
places. I finally had to remove my paint (a terrible job). Then I sanded Van's
primer paint with scotch bright and cleaned it well with MEK. The lesson
learned. Van's primer needs good preparation before top coating.
Pete
Clearwater, FL
RV-6, installing engine
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Speedy11(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 02/07/04 |
In a message dated 2/8/04 3:00:13 AM Eastern Standard Time,
rv8-list-digest(at)matronics.com writes:
<< My QB fuselage came with a kind of aluminium priming brushed, providing a
steel grey color to the surface.
What kind of primer is that and can I paint over it or do I have to prepare
somehow the surface ? >>
Michel,
Van's applies a "wash primer" that is supposed to protect the aluminum fairly
well. I, however, intend my plane to be flying 100 years from now (by my yet
unborn grandson) and in addition I live on the Florida coast, so I intend to
spray Marhyde primer on the entire inside of the airplane (or at least as much
as possible). I plan to leave the wash primer in place and simply clean the
surface with quick prep before priming. It may be a waste of time and money,
but that is what I plan to do. So many times I've heard guys say, "I wish
more had been done to protect my plane from corrosion when it was built." I
believe the aircraft manufacturers intended their planes to be "used up" and
discarded, much like cars, when they were building them and they made a business
decision to not protect them internally.
Stan Sutterfield
RV-8A QB
Tampa, FL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Garey Wittich <gareywittich2000(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List Digest: Priming / Painting |
Mike:
That "grey" color is a diluted version of Sherwin
Williams P60-G2 Wash Primer. It provides minimal
corrosion protection and is not a vapor barrier
(water, etc.) like Epoxy Primers are. Per the
military, it is not a substitute for a "real" primer
like an Epoxy Primer and it needs to be coated with a
"real" primer" or painted over. A Wash Primer is just
a low cost, easy application substitute for a more
laborous Acid Etch and Alodine method which provides
better corrosion protection. I have experimented with
"full strength" P60-G2 on aluminum samples on my roof
aging for 9 months now. So far there is very little
corrosion. Van's wash primer and P60-G2 can be
cleaned off (not removed) with Denatured Acohol. If
you want to REMOVE it use MEK, Acetone or Lacquer
Thinner.
I have written "A Guide for Painting & Corrosion
Control of Aluminum & Composite Aircraft" that
addresses Wash Primers (P60-G2 in much more detail),
Paints, Processes that you might find useful. It is
discribed on the Matronics Site / RV-8 / Paint / Nov
03.
Glad to help, Garey Wittich
> From: "Michel Gordillo"
>
> Subject: RV8-List: Priming / painting
>
>
>
> Hi.
> My QB fuselage came with a kind of aluminium priming
> brushed, providing a
> steel grey color to the surface.
> What kind of primer is that and can I paint over it
> or do I have to prepare
> somehow the surface ?
> Thank you very much
> Michel Gordillo
> RV8 tail complete.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/chat
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV8-List.htm
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________
http://taxes.yahoo.com/filing.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch> |
| Subject: | Re: Priming / Painting |
>That "grey" color is a diluted version of Sherwin
>Williams P60-G2 Wash Primer. It provides minimal
>corrosion protection and is not a vapor barrier
>(water, etc.) like Epoxy Primers are. Per the
>military, it is not a substitute for a "real" primer
>like an Epoxy Primer and it needs to be coated with a
>"real" primer" or painted over. A Wash Primer is just
>a low cost, easy application substitute for a more
>laborous Acid Etch and Alodine method which provides
>better corrosion protection.
What do you think it will take to get Van's to start
using a good epoxy primer? I'm pretty surprised
they use this Sherwin Williams P60-G2 Wash Primer,
since it does not provide a vapor barrier, so is
really "useless" unless you paint a top coat over it.
Of course, in the QB, you can't get to all the places
that need a topcoat. This seems to be a rather
strange choice that Van's has made, IMHO.
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Crossflow Engine Proposal |
Hello,
I received a detailed proposal from Crossflow today which I don't mind making
available to others potentially interested in a Subie conversion. I got a
couple of private emails from the Subie list from folks thinking this was a
superior design to the Eggenfellner engine for a few reasons but what struck me
chiefly is it had the option of using a hydraulic prop governor. So I looked
into it. With the Egg, you have to use fixed or electric governor (yuch) which
is
for me is like castration to an RV for acro.
But I don't want to email it out to everyone individually so I'm looking for
a place to put it which folks can download if they so chose. Who wants to
host it for others?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Racing4funn(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List: Crossflow Engine Proposal |
FUCK YOU!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Racing4funn(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Crossflow Engine Proposal |
FUCK YOU!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle) |
"Fw: RV-List: Crossflow Engine Proposal" (Feb 11, 4:56pm)
RV8-List(at)matronics.com, Pietenpol-List(at)matronics.com,
Kitfox-List(at)matronics.com, Tailwind-List(at)matronics.com
| Subject: | Potty-Mouth Squelched... |
Hi Ed and all,
This annoying fellow has been unsubscribed. I was able to kill a whole
bunch of similar posts from him, but unfortunately quite a few got
through before I could stop them. Funny how he could take the time
to send out all those offensive messages, but not the time to unsubscribe
himself.
My appologies.
Matt Dralle
List Admin.
>--------------
>Hi Matt,
>
>I don't know where the below email came from other than its the Racing4Funn
>address, but the message it conveys clearly falls below the standards we set
>for ourselves on the lists - even when parties get emotional. So I (and I'm
>sure most others agree) this is no place for folks like this on the list. I
>presume that he is a subscriber, so unsubscribing him would be the
>appropriate action. If it was an unauthorized use of some legitimate
>subscribers e mail, then he should at least be make aware of it.
>
>Sincerely
>
>Ed
>Ed Anderson
>RV-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
>Matthews, NC
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: <Racing4funn(at)aol.com>
>To: ;
>Sent: Wednesday, February 11, 2004 7:33 PM
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Crossflow Engine Proposal
>
>
>> --> RV-List message posted by: Racing4funn(at)aol.com
>>
>> F*CK Y*U!!!
>--------------
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Noel & Yoshie Simmons" <noel(at)blueskyaviation.net> |
| Subject: | Crossflow Engine Proposal |
I also got a proposal from them, GOOD looking engine! I have installed
several Subies (5 now) and I love them. The response from customers is "WOW
it's got a lot of POWER!". Here are a few good points of the subi engine
(general).
1. water cooling
2. extends the range of the aircraft by 20% with out extra fuel
3. TURBO
4. smooth
5. No shock cooling Don't baby it just firewall the throttle and use the
pitch to increase fuel flow & speed!
6. Easy starting
7. Data logging for engine trend analysis
8. Water heat in the cabin
9. equivalent priced
10. easy to get parts
11. comes ready just bolt it on add fuel, power, water, oil, prop, and
RV-smile
12. Cross flow also can turn an AC pump (YA, YA I know a little over board
but WOW)
That is all today.
Noel
today Riveting leading edges and Left wing tank got the TruTrak Wing servo
in and the Gretz Pitot tube mounted.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of RV8ter(at)aol.com
Subject: RV8-List: Crossflow Engine Proposal
Hello,
I received a detailed proposal from Crossflow today which I don't mind
making
available to others potentially interested in a Subie conversion. I got a
couple of private emails from the Subie list from folks thinking this was a
superior design to the Eggenfellner engine for a few reasons but what struck
me
chiefly is it had the option of using a hydraulic prop governor. So I looked
into it. With the Egg, you have to use fixed or electric governor (yuch)
which is
for me is like castration to an RV for acro.
But I don't want to email it out to everyone individually so I'm looking for
a place to put it which folks can download if they so chose. Who wants to
host it for others?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "lucky macy" <luckymacy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Crossflow Engine Proposal |
air conditioning, sign me up.
seriously, who's Subie packages are you referring to?
>From: "Noel & Yoshie Simmons" <noel(at)blueskyaviation.net>
>Reply-To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RE: RV8-List: Crossflow Engine Proposal
>Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2004 18:34:11 -0700
>
>
>
>I also got a proposal from them, GOOD looking engine! I have installed
>several Subies (5 now) and I love them. The response from customers is
>"WOW
>it's got a lot of POWER!". Here are a few good points of the subi engine
>(general).
>
>1. water cooling
>2. extends the range of the aircraft by 20% with out extra fuel
>3. TURBO
>4. smooth
>5. No shock cooling Don't baby it just firewall the throttle and use the
>pitch to increase fuel flow & speed!
>6. Easy starting
>7. Data logging for engine trend analysis
>8. Water heat in the cabin
>9. equivalent priced
>10. easy to get parts
>11. comes ready just bolt it on add fuel, power, water, oil, prop, and
>RV-smile
>12. Cross flow also can turn an AC pump (YA, YA I know a little over board
>but WOW)
>
>That is all today.
>
>Noel
>
>today Riveting leading edges and Left wing tank got the TruTrak Wing servo
>in and the Gretz Pitot tube mounted.
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of RV8ter(at)aol.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com; rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV8-List: Crossflow Engine Proposal
>
>
>Hello,
>I received a detailed proposal from Crossflow today which I don't mind
>making
>available to others potentially interested in a Subie conversion. I got a
>couple of private emails from the Subie list from folks thinking this was a
>superior design to the Eggenfellner engine for a few reasons but what
>struck
>me
>chiefly is it had the option of using a hydraulic prop governor. So I
>looked
>into it. With the Egg, you have to use fixed or electric governor (yuch)
>which is
>for me is like castration to an RV for acro.
>
>But I don't want to email it out to everyone individually so I'm looking
>for
>a place to put it which folks can download if they so chose. Who wants to
>host it for others?
>
>
Check out the great features of the new MSN 9 Dial-up, with the MSN Dial-up
Accelerator. http://click.atdmt.com/AVE/go/onm00200361ave/direct/01/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Noel & Yoshie Simmons" <noel(at)blueskyaviation.net> |
| Subject: | Crossflow Engine Proposal |
Cross Flow and NSI (RV's, Kitfoxes, GlaStar), I am currently doing a plug
and play panel for an RV-7 with an Eggenfellner so getting better on them
too.
the AC is for the Cross Flow!
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of lucky macy
Subject: RE: RV8-List: Crossflow Engine Proposal
air conditioning, sign me up.
seriously, who's Subie packages are you referring to?
>From: "Noel & Yoshie Simmons" <noel(at)blueskyaviation.net>
>Reply-To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RE: RV8-List: Crossflow Engine Proposal
>Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2004 18:34:11 -0700
>
>
>
>I also got a proposal from them, GOOD looking engine! I have installed
>several Subies (5 now) and I love them. The response from customers is
>"WOW
>it's got a lot of POWER!". Here are a few good points of the subi engine
>(general).
>
>1. water cooling
>2. extends the range of the aircraft by 20% with out extra fuel
>3. TURBO
>4. smooth
>5. No shock cooling Don't baby it just firewall the throttle and use the
>pitch to increase fuel flow & speed!
>6. Easy starting
>7. Data logging for engine trend analysis
>8. Water heat in the cabin
>9. equivalent priced
>10. easy to get parts
>11. comes ready just bolt it on add fuel, power, water, oil, prop, and
>RV-smile
>12. Cross flow also can turn an AC pump (YA, YA I know a little over board
>but WOW)
>
>That is all today.
>
>Noel
>
>today Riveting leading edges and Left wing tank got the TruTrak Wing servo
>in and the Gretz Pitot tube mounted.
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of RV8ter(at)aol.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com; rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV8-List: Crossflow Engine Proposal
>
>
>Hello,
>I received a detailed proposal from Crossflow today which I don't mind
>making
>available to others potentially interested in a Subie conversion. I got a
>couple of private emails from the Subie list from folks thinking this was a
>superior design to the Eggenfellner engine for a few reasons but what
>struck
>me
>chiefly is it had the option of using a hydraulic prop governor. So I
>looked
>into it. With the Egg, you have to use fixed or electric governor (yuch)
>which is
>for me is like castration to an RV for acro.
>
>But I don't want to email it out to everyone individually so I'm looking
>for
>a place to put it which folks can download if they so chose. Who wants to
>host it for others?
>
>
Check out the great features of the new MSN 9 Dial-up, with the MSN Dial-up
Accelerator. http://click.atdmt.com/AVE/go/onm00200361ave/direct/01/
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Jim Jewell ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Jim Jewell
Subject: Dynon Compass Module
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/jjewell@telus.net.02.11.2004/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
4) One line Subject description:
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)QCBC.ORG> |
, ,
, ,
| Subject: | Re: RV-List: Potty-Mouth Squelched... |
I just forwarded the messages to abuse(at)aol.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Matt Dralle" <dralle(at)matronics.com>
; ;
;
Subject: RV-List: Potty-Mouth Squelched...
> --> RV-List message posted by: dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle)
>
>
> Hi Ed and all,
>
> This annoying fellow has been unsubscribed. I was able to kill a whole
> bunch of similar posts from him, but unfortunately quite a few got
> through before I could stop them. Funny how he could take the time
> to send out all those offensive messages, but not the time to unsubscribe
> himself.
>
> My appologies.
>
> Matt Dralle
> List Admin.
>
>
> >--------------
> >Hi Matt,
> >
> >I don't know where the below email came from other than its the
Racing4Funn
> >address, but the message it conveys clearly falls below the standards we
set
> >for ourselves on the lists - even when parties get emotional. So I (and
I'm
> >sure most others agree) this is no place for folks like this on the list.
I
> >presume that he is a subscriber, so unsubscribing him would be the
> >appropriate action. If it was an unauthorized use of some legitimate
> >subscribers e mail, then he should at least be make aware of it.
> >
> >Sincerely
> >
> >Ed
> >Ed Anderson
> >RV-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
> >Matthews, NC
> >
> >
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: <Racing4funn(at)aol.com>
> >To: ;
> >Sent: Wednesday, February 11, 2004 7:33 PM
> >Subject: Re: RV-List: Crossflow Engine Proposal
> >
> >
> >> --> RV-List message posted by: Racing4funn(at)aol.com
> >>
> >> F*CK Y*U!!!
> >--------------
>
>
> --
>
>
> Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
> 925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
> http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch> |
Usually if something is real hard, then I must
be doing it wrong. Does anyone have any hints
on doing the rear floors correctly?
The manual says it's not easy, but they will
go in. I feel like I'll probably destroy the
whole cabin before I get them in.
Has anyone done something different, like cut
the floors into smaller pieces? Also, wouldn't
it be better to use platenuts all around,
instead of the pop rivets? Seems like I might
need to get in there sometime down the road...
Thanks for any hints!
Mickey
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Ripley" <dougr(at)hurricanefilter.com> |
Mine went in ok, but it took some work. Hard part is getting under the
bulkhead (not sure of the number, but the ones adjacent to the front-seat
seatbelt mounts). I filed some of the flange on that to make room for the
floor to slide under.
I didn't use nut-plates.....would take too darn many. I suggest to not
locate any antennas under that part of the floor, and run some conduit under
the floor for wiring in case you have to change or add to your initial
wiring installation. Final rivet the floor as late in the building process
as possible.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mickey Coggins" <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch>
Subject: RV8-List: RV8 floors
>
> Usually if something is real hard, then I must
> be doing it wrong. Does anyone have any hints
> on doing the rear floors correctly?
>
> The manual says it's not easy, but they will
> go in. I feel like I'll probably destroy the
> whole cabin before I get them in.
>
> Has anyone done something different, like cut
> the floors into smaller pieces? Also, wouldn't
> it be better to use platenuts all around,
> instead of the pop rivets? Seems like I might
> need to get in there sometime down the road...
>
> Thanks for any hints!
>
> Mickey
>
>
> --
> Mickey Coggins
> http://www.rv8.ch/
> #82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Al Grajek" <algrajek(at)msn.com> |
I have seen people use plate nuts there. I did not. I went the easy way. The
floors were a bitch to get in and out, but it can be done. Grind or file a
bit of the forward bulkhead bottom a bit if you can. Also I notched my
floors a bit to go around the vertical bulkhead. It woked great and you cant
see it when the floor is in place.
Al Grajek
>From: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch>
>Reply-To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV8-List: RV8 floors
>Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2004 17:13:34 +0100
>
>
>Usually if something is real hard, then I must
>be doing it wrong. Does anyone have any hints
>on doing the rear floors correctly?
>
>The manual says it's not easy, but they will
>go in. I feel like I'll probably destroy the
>whole cabin before I get them in.
>
>Has anyone done something different, like cut
>the floors into smaller pieces? Also, wouldn't
>it be better to use platenuts all around,
>instead of the pop rivets? Seems like I might
>need to get in there sometime down the road...
>
>Thanks for any hints!
>
>Mickey
>
>
>--
>Mickey Coggins
>http://www.rv8.ch/
>#82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
>
>
Optimize your Internet experience to the max with the new MSN Premium
Internet Software. http://click.atdmt.com/AVE/go/onm00200359ave/direct/01/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vince Himsl" <vhimsl(at)turbonet.com> |
Hello,
I agree with Doug. Wait till last minute then pop rivet the rear floor pieces using
the flexible black plastic conduit for
any runs. Besides, you answered your own question as yes, it is a pain getting
the rear floors in place.
You wouldn't put anything there anyway as 'ease of maintenance' should be a construction
goal and that can be handled more
easily without putting in all those time consuming platenuts. Besides, you'll cover
the floor with seats and
mats(carpeting).
I wouldn't use pop rivets where regular rivets are called for but conversely, I
wouldn't waste my time on platenuts when
pop rivets are specifically called for.
Regards,
Vince Himsl
RV8 - SB Finish
Aerosport and Lightspeed, but still procrastinating on the canopy!
.
Usually if something is real hard, then I must
be doing it wrong. Does anyone have any hints
on doing the rear floors correctly?
The manual says it's not easy, but they will
go in. I feel like I'll probably destroy the
whole cabin before I get them in.
Has anyone done something different, like cut
the floors into smaller pieces? Also, wouldn't
it be better to use platenuts all around,
instead of the pop rivets? Seems like I might
need to get in there sometime down the road...
Thanks for any hints!
Mickey
________________________________________________________________________________
you can use structural pop rivets, especially cherry max type rivets for
annoying jobs like riveting in the floor stiffeners they tell you to rivet after
floors are installed.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jacob & Grace" <grizzlybear(at)klondiker.com> |
I zinc chromated, cut three small inspection openings under the rear seat,
then riveted the suckers down. All wires run through conduit on right side.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mickey Coggins" <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch>
Subject: RV8-List: RV8 floors
>
> Usually if something is real hard, then I must
> be doing it wrong. Does anyone have any hints
> on doing the rear floors correctly?
>
> The manual says it's not easy, but they will
> go in. I feel like I'll probably destroy the
> whole cabin before I get them in.
>
> Has anyone done something different, like cut
> the floors into smaller pieces? Also, wouldn't
> it be better to use platenuts all around,
> instead of the pop rivets? Seems like I might
> need to get in there sometime down the road...
>
> Thanks for any hints!
>
> Mickey
>
>
> --
> Mickey Coggins
> http://www.rv8.ch/
> #82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com> |
"Rv8-List" , "Rv7-List" ,
"Rv6-List"
| Subject: | Wire Sizes in the wing |
SUSPICIOUS_RECIPS
Hi Guys,
Just a quick note about something that I've seen in the past month or two
that is a little confusing. I've had no less than at least 6 people ask me
for some AWG10 wire to use in their wings. Seems someone "out there" has
recommened AWG10 or AWG12 for running to the landing lights.
To anyone who is currently wiring your plane, don't fall into the trap that
some people do.....that being "if some is perfect, more must be better" -
with wire sizes, this is just a huge waste of money, weight, resources,
etc.. If the recommened wire is AWG16 or AWG18, there is NO reason to use
an AWG10.
Just a quick FYI, an AWG10 wire running the approximate length of a RVxx
wing, will carry something in the area of 800+ Watts. Who has a landing
light requiring that much power?!?! Heck, an AWG16 wire should carry well
over 180 Watts in that length.
Here's the simple breakdown before adding in resistance per 1K.
AWG10 - 70amps current carrying capacity
AWG12 - 50amps
AWG14 - 40amps
So, if you are one of those people running those huge AWG10 wires to your
wingtips, ask yourselves why?!? Two big reasons NOT to are:
1). Cost--AWG16-18 averages around $.17/ft & AWG10 is around $.50/ft (300%
higher).
2). Weight--AWG16-18 averages .005 lbs/ft, where AWG10 = .03lbs/ft.
Meaning, for an average set of wings at 2 wires x 18' = 36' x 2 wings = 72'
of wire. At AWG16 or 18 the weight would only be about 8oz's total. AWG10
would be over 2 POUNDS!!
Anyway, sorry about the rant...I just thought it might be a good idea to
bring this to the surface. Somehow, somewhere, there is a movement to put
fat wires into the wings, and I don't know why. If you are one of those
people, please enlighten me and the rest of us!
FYI, I do have AWG12 on up, and will stock some AWG10 in the future, but in
all reality, there isn't much need for it.
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
RV6's, Minneapolis
http://www.steinair.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch> |
Thanks everyone for all the hints. I'm going to
constipate on it for a while before I finally decide
how to handle it. :-)
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 02/07/04 |
| From: | "Greg V. Miller" <gvm(at)cableone.net> |
Another data point: I left the wash primer alone and sprayed Imron over
it. Rain at 200mph took some paint off the leading edges, and squeezing
the light wing aileron trailing edge to balance the wings took a bit
more off, but otherwise the paint sticks well. N89GM, 350hrs.
On Sun, 2004-02-08 at 11:21, Speedy11(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> In a message dated 2/8/04 3:00:13 AM Eastern Standard Time,
> rv8-list-digest(at)matronics.com writes:
>
> << My QB fuselage came with a kind of aluminium priming brushed, providing a
> steel grey color to the surface.
> What kind of primer is that and can I paint over it or do I have to prepare
> somehow the surface ? >>
>
> Michel,
> Van's applies a "wash primer" that is supposed to protect the aluminum fairly
> well. I, however, intend my plane to be flying 100 years from now (by my yet
> unborn grandson) and in addition I live on the Florida coast, so I intend to
> spray Marhyde primer on the entire inside of the airplane (or at least as much
> as possible). I plan to leave the wash primer in place and simply clean the
> surface with quick prep before priming. It may be a waste of time and money,
> but that is what I plan to do. So many times I've heard guys say, "I wish
> more had been done to protect my plane from corrosion when it was built." I
> believe the aircraft manufacturers intended their planes to be "used up" and
> discarded, much like cars, when they were building them and they made a business
> decision to not protect them internally.
> Stan Sutterfield
> RV-8A QB
> Tampa, FL
>
>
>
>
--
*Quote of the day*
All national institutions of churches, whether Jewish, Christian, or
Turkish, appear to me no other than human inventions set up to terrify
and enslave mankind, and monopolize power and profit. - Thomas Paine, Age of
Reason, 1795.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Speedy11(at)aol.com |
Mickey,
I have to differ with the other guys. I installed my floors with nutplates
(platenuts, or whatever you call them) and I wouldn't have them any other way.
I wanted to be able to check the rudder cables during annuals and without
removable floors it wouldn't have been possbile. It also allows me to locate
antennas wherever I like without worrying about not having access to them. It
was a lot of work and effort to use nutplates, but I like them. One thing to
consider though, is that should you want to remove the floors in the future, you
will need to remove the entire flap mechanism unless you modify the floors.
Personally, I made a cut under where the rear seat cushion will be (the cut
will be hidden) so that I can remove all of the floors except for a small
portion under the flap actuator arm. That will save a lot of time when I need
to
pull the floors. My floors install and remove with only a little effort. I
fine tuned the edges to allow them to slip past round head rivets more easily.
I have digital photos of the cut rear floor in case you didn't understand my
explanation.
Stan Sutterfield
RV-8A
Tampa, FL
In a message dated 2/13/04 2:58:34 AM Eastern Standard Time,
rv8-list-digest(at)matronics.com writes:
<< Usually if something is real hard, then I must
be doing it wrong. Does anyone have any hints
on doing the rear floors correctly?
The manual says it's not easy, but they will
go in. I feel like I'll probably destroy the
whole cabin before I get them in.
Has anyone done something different, like cut
the floors into smaller pieces? Also, wouldn't
it be better to use platenuts all around,
instead of the pop rivets? Seems like I might
need to get in there sometime down the road...
Thanks for any hints!
Mickey >>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch> |
>will need to remove the entire flap mechanism unless you modify the floors.
>Personally, I made a cut under where the rear seat cushion will be (the cut
>will be hidden) so that I can remove all of the floors except for a small
>portion under the flap actuator arm. ....
Hi Stan,
That seems like a good idea. If you can send some pictures to
me showing your installation, that would be a great help!
Thanks,
Mickey
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Hunt" <stephen.hunt19(at)btinternet.com> |
"RV8-List Digest List"
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List Digest: 3 Msgs - 02/13/04 |
I was told by Vans that all you guys in the States were very happy with the
wash primer and that it was only the Europeans who had a "thing about
primer". It`s nice to see that I am not alone in my concerns. I am not
familiar with Marhyde. Does anyone have any knowledge of it or any other
which might help? The interface surfaces are the ones I worry about most.
Steve, UK
----- Original Message -----
From: "RV8-List Digest Server" <rv8-list-digest(at)matronics.com>
Subject: RV8-List Digest: 3 Msgs - 02/13/04
> *
>
> ==================================================
> Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive
> ==================================================
>
> Today's complete RV8-List Digest can be also be found in either
> of the two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest
> formatted in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked
> Indexes and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII
> version of the RV8-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic
> text editor such as Notepad or with a web browser.
>
> HTML Version:
>
>
http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv8-list/Digest.RV8-List.2004-02-13.html
>
> Text Version:
>
>
http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv8-list/Digest.RV8-List.2004-02-13.txt
>
>
> ================================================
> EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive
> ================================================
>
>
> RV8-List Digest Archive
> ---
> Total Messages Posted Fri 02/13/04: 3
>
>
> Today's Message Index:
> ----------------------
>
> 1. 11:29 AM - Re: RV8 floors (Mickey Coggins)
> 2. 05:54 PM - Re: Re: RV8-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 02/07/04 (Greg V.
Miller)
> 3. 06:11 PM - Re: RV8 floors (Speedy11(at)aol.com)
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 1
_____________________________________
>
>
> From: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch>
> Subject: Re: RV8-List: RV8 floors
>
>
> Thanks everyone for all the hints. I'm going to
> constipate on it for a while before I finally decide
> how to handle it. :-)
>
>
> --
> Mickey Coggins
> http://www.rv8.ch/
> #82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 2
_____________________________________
>
>
> Subject: Re: RV8-List: Re: RV8-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 02/07/04
> From: "Greg V. Miller" <gvm(at)cableone.net>
>
>
> Another data point: I left the wash primer alone and sprayed Imron over
> it. Rain at 200mph took some paint off the leading edges, and squeezing
> the light wing aileron trailing edge to balance the wings took a bit
> more off, but otherwise the paint sticks well. N89GM, 350hrs.
>
> On Sun, 2004-02-08 at 11:21, Speedy11(at)aol.com wrote:
> >
> > In a message dated 2/8/04 3:00:13 AM Eastern Standard Time,
> > rv8-list-digest(at)matronics.com writes:
> >
> > << My QB fuselage came with a kind of aluminium priming brushed,
providing a
> > steel grey color to the surface.
> > What kind of primer is that and can I paint over it or do I have to
prepare
> > somehow the surface ? >>
> >
> > Michel,
> > Van's applies a "wash primer" that is supposed to protect the aluminum
fairly
>
> > well. I, however, intend my plane to be flying 100 years from now (by
my yet
>
> > unborn grandson) and in addition I live on the Florida coast, so I
intend to
>
> > spray Marhyde primer on the entire inside of the airplane (or at least
as much
>
> > as possible). I plan to leave the wash primer in place and simply clean
the
>
> > surface with quick prep before priming. It may be a waste of time and
money,
>
> > but that is what I plan to do. So many times I've heard guys say, "I
wish
> > more had been done to protect my plane from corrosion when it was
built." I
>
> > believe the aircraft manufacturers intended their planes to be "used up"
and
>
> > discarded, much like cars, when they were building them and they made a
business
>
> > decision to not protect them internally.
> > Stan Sutterfield
> > RV-8A QB
> > Tampa, FL
> >
> >
> >
> >
> --
>
> *Quote of the day*
>
> All national institutions of churches, whether Jewish, Christian, or
> Turkish, appear to me no other than human inventions set up to terrify
> and enslave mankind, and monopolize power and profit. - Thomas Paine, Age
of
> Reason, 1795.
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 3
_____________________________________
>
>
> From: Speedy11(at)aol.com
> Subject: RV8-List: Re: RV8 floors
>
>
> Mickey,
> I have to differ with the other guys. I installed my floors with
nutplates
> (platenuts, or whatever you call them) and I wouldn't have them any other
way.
>
> I wanted to be able to check the rudder cables during annuals and without
> removable floors it wouldn't have been possbile. It also allows me to
locate
> antennas wherever I like without worrying about not having access to them.
It
>
> was a lot of work and effort to use nutplates, but I like them. One thing
to
> consider though, is that should you want to remove the floors in the
future, you
>
> will need to remove the entire flap mechanism unless you modify the
floors.
> Personally, I made a cut under where the rear seat cushion will be (the
cut
> will be hidden) so that I can remove all of the floors except for a small
> portion under the flap actuator arm. That will save a lot of time when I
need
> to
> pull the floors. My floors install and remove with only a little effort.
I
> fine tuned the edges to allow them to slip past round head rivets more
easily.
> I have digital photos of the cut rear floor in case you didn't understand
my
> explanation.
> Stan Sutterfield
> RV-8A
> Tampa, FL
>
> In a message dated 2/13/04 2:58:34 AM Eastern Standard Time,
> rv8-list-digest(at)matronics.com writes:
>
> << Usually if something is real hard, then I must
> be doing it wrong. Does anyone have any hints
> on doing the rear floors correctly?
>
> The manual says it's not easy, but they will
> go in. I feel like I'll probably destroy the
> whole cabin before I get them in.
>
> Has anyone done something different, like cut
> the floors into smaller pieces? Also, wouldn't
> it be better to use platenuts all around,
> instead of the pop rivets? Seems like I might
> need to get in there sometime down the road...
>
> Thanks for any hints!
>
> Mickey >>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Esten Spears" <ewspears(at)comcast.net> |
I did the same except I used Rivnuts for the rear floor and all of the rear
baggage compartment floors. It gives me the same functionality as the
platenuts but with a rivnut speed installer tool you can install rivnuts in
30 seconds each.
Esten Spears, RV8A, 80922, N922ES (reserved), Leeward Air Ranch, Ocala, FL
----- Original Message -----
From: <Speedy11(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV8-List: Re: RV8 floors
>
> Mickey,
> I have to differ with the other guys. I installed my floors with
nutplates
> (platenuts, or whatever you call them) and I wouldn't have them any other
way.
> I wanted to be able to check the rudder cables during annuals and without
> removable floors it wouldn't have been possbile. It also allows me to
locate
> antennas wherever I like without worrying about not having access to them.
It
> was a lot of work and effort to use nutplates, but I like them. One thing
to
> consider though, is that should you want to remove the floors in the
future, you
> will need to remove the entire flap mechanism unless you modify the
floors.
> Personally, I made a cut under where the rear seat cushion will be (the
cut
> will be hidden) so that I can remove all of the floors except for a small
> portion under the flap actuator arm. That will save a lot of time when I
need to
> pull the floors. My floors install and remove with only a little effort.
I
> fine tuned the edges to allow them to slip past round head rivets more
easily.
> I have digital photos of the cut rear floor in case you didn't understand
my
> explanation.
> Stan Sutterfield
> RV-8A
> Tampa, FL
>
> In a message dated 2/13/04 2:58:34 AM Eastern Standard Time,
> rv8-list-digest(at)matronics.com writes:
>
> << Usually if something is real hard, then I must
> be doing it wrong. Does anyone have any hints
> on doing the rear floors correctly?
>
> The manual says it's not easy, but they will
> go in. I feel like I'll probably destroy the
> whole cabin before I get them in.
>
> Has anyone done something different, like cut
> the floors into smaller pieces? Also, wouldn't
> it be better to use platenuts all around,
> instead of the pop rivets? Seems like I might
> need to get in there sometime down the road...
>
> Thanks for any hints!
>
> Mickey >>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Rudder Pedal Extensions |
Happy V-day all,
Now's the right time for me to make this mod. Funny thing is, even though it
looks like a good idea, I have never seen anyone actually do it. So to all
you RV8 flyers out there, who's done this and whether or have or haven't, do
you think it's worth it or in practice just not ever needed?
I'd set up an online poll but when I go to the RV8 poll page the 'create new
poll' option isn't available anymore - anyone know why?
http://www.rv-8.com/IdeasProducts.htm
thx,
lucky macy
still trying to decide on the right engine....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "C. Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> |
Esteen,
I've used Rivnuts for years, but ain't heard of the "speed installer
tool" you refer to. Can you describe it or better yet email me a pic?
Thanks,
Chuck
----- Original Message -----
From: Esten Spears <ewspears(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: RV8-List: Re: RV8 floors
>
> I did the same except I used Rivnuts for the rear floor and all of the
rear
> baggage compartment floors. It gives me the same functionality as the
> platenuts but with a rivnut speed installer tool you can install rivnuts
in
> 30 seconds each.
> Esten Spears, RV8A, 80922, N922ES (reserved), Leeward Air Ranch, Ocala,
FL
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <Speedy11(at)aol.com>
> To:
> Subject: RV8-List: Re: RV8 floors
>
>
> >
> > Mickey,
> > I have to differ with the other guys. I installed my floors with
> nutplates
> > (platenuts, or whatever you call them) and I wouldn't have them any
other
> way.
> > I wanted to be able to check the rudder cables during annuals and
without
> > removable floors it wouldn't have been possbile. It also allows me to
> locate
> > antennas wherever I like without worrying about not having access to
them.
> It
> > was a lot of work and effort to use nutplates, but I like them. One
thing
> to
> > consider though, is that should you want to remove the floors in the
> future, you
> > will need to remove the entire flap mechanism unless you modify the
> floors.
> > Personally, I made a cut under where the rear seat cushion will be (the
> cut
> > will be hidden) so that I can remove all of the floors except for a
small
> > portion under the flap actuator arm. That will save a lot of time when
I
> need to
> > pull the floors. My floors install and remove with only a little
effort.
> I
> > fine tuned the edges to allow them to slip past round head rivets more
> easily.
> > I have digital photos of the cut rear floor in case you didn't
understand
> my
> > explanation.
> > Stan Sutterfield
> > RV-8A
> > Tampa, FL
> >
> > In a message dated 2/13/04 2:58:34 AM Eastern Standard Time,
> > rv8-list-digest(at)matronics.com writes:
> >
> > << Usually if something is real hard, then I must
> > be doing it wrong. Does anyone have any hints
> > on doing the rear floors correctly?
> >
> > The manual says it's not easy, but they will
> > go in. I feel like I'll probably destroy the
> > whole cabin before I get them in.
> >
> > Has anyone done something different, like cut
> > the floors into smaller pieces? Also, wouldn't
> > it be better to use platenuts all around,
> > instead of the pop rivets? Seems like I might
> > need to get in there sometime down the road...
> >
> > Thanks for any hints!
> >
> > Mickey >>
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Esten Spears" <ewspears(at)comcast.net> |
Chuck,
I'm talking about the standard BF Goodrich Installation tool with the lever
action and quick slide disengage as opposed to some of the cobbled up
installers I've seen which don't amount to much more than a bolt and washer.
Esten Spears, RV8A, 80922, N922ES (reserved), Leeward Air Ranch, Ocala, FL
----- Original Message -----
From: "C. Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com>
Subject: Re: RV8-List: Re: RV8 floors
>
> Esteen,
>
> I've used Rivnuts for years, but ain't heard of the "speed installer
> tool" you refer to. Can you describe it or better yet email me a pic?
> Thanks,
>
> Chuck
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Esten Spears <ewspears(at)comcast.net>
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV8-List: Re: RV8 floors
>
>
> >
> > I did the same except I used Rivnuts for the rear floor and all of the
> rear
> > baggage compartment floors. It gives me the same functionality as the
> > platenuts but with a rivnut speed installer tool you can install rivnuts
> in
> > 30 seconds each.
> > Esten Spears, RV8A, 80922, N922ES (reserved), Leeward Air Ranch,
Ocala,
> FL
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: <Speedy11(at)aol.com>
> > To:
> > Subject: RV8-List: Re: RV8 floors
> >
> >
> > >
> > > Mickey,
> > > I have to differ with the other guys. I installed my floors with
> > nutplates
> > > (platenuts, or whatever you call them) and I wouldn't have them any
> other
> > way.
> > > I wanted to be able to check the rudder cables during annuals and
> without
> > > removable floors it wouldn't have been possbile. It also allows me to
> > locate
> > > antennas wherever I like without worrying about not having access to
> them.
> > It
> > > was a lot of work and effort to use nutplates, but I like them. One
> thing
> > to
> > > consider though, is that should you want to remove the floors in the
> > future, you
> > > will need to remove the entire flap mechanism unless you modify the
> > floors.
> > > Personally, I made a cut under where the rear seat cushion will be
(the
> > cut
> > > will be hidden) so that I can remove all of the floors except for a
> small
> > > portion under the flap actuator arm. That will save a lot of time
when
> I
> > need to
> > > pull the floors. My floors install and remove with only a little
> effort.
> > I
> > > fine tuned the edges to allow them to slip past round head rivets more
> > easily.
> > > I have digital photos of the cut rear floor in case you didn't
> understand
> > my
> > > explanation.
> > > Stan Sutterfield
> > > RV-8A
> > > Tampa, FL
> > >
> > > In a message dated 2/13/04 2:58:34 AM Eastern Standard Time,
> > > rv8-list-digest(at)matronics.com writes:
> > >
> > > << Usually if something is real hard, then I must
> > > be doing it wrong. Does anyone have any hints
> > > on doing the rear floors correctly?
> > >
> > > The manual says it's not easy, but they will
> > > go in. I feel like I'll probably destroy the
> > > whole cabin before I get them in.
> > >
> > > Has anyone done something different, like cut
> > > the floors into smaller pieces? Also, wouldn't
> > > it be better to use platenuts all around,
> > > instead of the pop rivets? Seems like I might
> > > need to get in there sometime down the road...
> > >
> > > Thanks for any hints!
> > >
> > > Mickey >>
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rich Crosley" <dirtrider(at)qnet.com> |
| Subject: | Extra part, HELP |
I am building an RV-8, installing engine and canopy, finish stuff. In a box
I found the fuselage gusset bag with a one piece of aluminum left and after
going through the drawings several times I can't find where it is used.
Maybe it's not used on a tail dragger! Anyway it's marked "AS3-125 2.625
x 3.5" . If anyone can remember this guy I'd appreciate it. Which drawing?
There is a picture of it on that little gusset sheet, but no info.
Thanks,
Rich Crosley
Palmdale, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Porter" <december29(at)peoplepc.com> |
| Subject: | Fuel tank dimple dies |
Hi,
What is the deal with the special dimple dies for the fuel tanks? How are they
different? Can you just use regular dies for the tank skin, or does this contribute
to leaks? Just want to see if I can avoid buying a tool I don't really
need.
Thanks,
John Porter
RV-8
Oregon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Daniels <jwdanie(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Extra part, HELP |
> I am building an RV-8, installing engine and canopy, finish stuff. In
> a box
> I found the fuselage gusset bag with a one piece of aluminum left and
> after
> going through the drawings several times I can't find where it is used.
> Maybe it's not used on a tail dragger! Anyway it's marked "AS3-125
> 2.625
> x 3.5" . If anyone can remember this guy I'd appreciate it. Which
> drawing?
> There is a picture of it on that little gusset sheet, but no info.
Rich,
The phantom parts section on the packing list shows this as F-885. It
is on drawing 27, Section D-D', and is the spacer that goes between the
front VS stab spar and the joiner plate if needed. It is not
specifically mentioned in the manual other than "up to 1/8" shim may be
used". This is that shim.
Jim Daniels
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "JAMES BOWEN" <jabowenjr(at)hotmail.com> |
Hi Stan. I also would like to take a look at the pictures of your floor. I
used nutplates on my floor , but would like to see where you made the cut.
It would be so much easier to not remove the flap actuator assembly.
Thanks,
Jim Bowen Jr
RV-8 QB
>From: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch>
>Reply-To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV8-List: Re: RV8 floors
>Date: Sat, 14 Feb 2004 09:30:28 +0100
>
>
> >will need to remove the entire flap mechanism unless you modify the
>floors.
> >Personally, I made a cut under where the rear seat cushion will be (the
>cut
> >will be hidden) so that I can remove all of the floors except for a small
> >portion under the flap actuator arm. ....
>
>Hi Stan,
>
>That seems like a good idea. If you can send some pictures to
>me showing your installation, that would be a great help!
>
>Thanks,
>
>Mickey
>
>
>--
>Mickey Coggins
>http://www.rv8.ch/
>#82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
>
>
Create your own personal Web page with the info you use most, at My MSN.
http://click.atdmt.com/AVE/go/onm00200364ave/direct/01/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Perry" <eperry(at)san.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Pedal Extensions |
Here's how you tell if you need them or not...
Disconnect the steering cables at the tailwheel. Have somebody push your -8.
Give full right and left pedal inputs. If the airplane turns (read brakes
engaging) you need the extensions. If the airplane goes straight, don't
bother.
I got lucky, I had them on and then took them off after I did the check.
Ed Perry
RV-8
130hours
----- Original Message -----
From: <RV8ter(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV8-List: Rudder Pedal Extensions
>
> Happy V-day all,
> Now's the right time for me to make this mod. Funny thing is, even though
it
> looks like a good idea, I have never seen anyone actually do it. So to
all
> you RV8 flyers out there, who's done this and whether or have or haven't,
do
> you think it's worth it or in practice just not ever needed?
>
> I'd set up an online poll but when I go to the RV8 poll page the 'create
new
> poll' option isn't available anymore - anyone know why?
>
>
> http://www.rv-8.com/IdeasProducts.htm
>
> thx,
> lucky macy
> still trying to decide on the right engine....
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch> |
>I'm talking about the standard BF Goodrich Installation tool with the lever
>action and quick slide disengage as opposed to some of the cobbled up
>installers I've seen which don't amount to much more than a bolt and washer.
Hi,
Is this tool sold by ACS?
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/speedriv.php
I was also considering using these plastic clipnuts:
http://www.marketingmasters.us/mmintro.htm
It seems like platenuts are severe overkill for the floors and
baggage areas, not to mention a lot of work!
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Speedy11(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Floor Rivnuts |
In a message dated 2/15/04 2:58:20 AM Eastern Standard Time,
rv8-list-digest(at)matronics.com writes:
<< It gives me the same functionality as the
platenuts but with a rivnut speed installer tool you can install rivnuts in
30 seconds each. >>
Esten,
Great idea. Wish I had known about Rivnuts before. I also made the baggage
floor removable, but I did it the hard way with platenuts. I like your idea
better - although I've never used Rivnuts.
Stan Sutterfield
RV-8A
Tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Speedy11(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List Digest: 11 Msgs - 02/14/04 |
In a message dated 2/15/04 2:58:20 AM Eastern Standard Time,
rv8-list-digest(at)matronics.com writes:
<< Anyway it's marked "AS3-125 2.625
x 3.5" . If anyone can remember this guy I'd appreciate it. >>
Oh no, Rich!! That is the center bracket of the airplane that everything
attaches to and it holds the plane together.
Sounds like that plane is worthless - you better let me take it off your
hands and dispose of it.
Stan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Speedy11(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Marhyde Primer |
In a message dated 2/15/04 2:58:20 AM Eastern Standard Time,
rv8-list-digest(at)matronics.com writes:
<< Vans that all you guys in the States were very happy with the
wash primer and that it was only the Europeans who had a "thing about
primer". It`s nice to see that I am not alone in my concerns. I am not
familiar with Marhyde. >>
Steve,
Van's is wrong. Most guys I've talked to are concerned about corrosion and
are willing to do what's necessary to reduce its impact.
I'm using Marhyde because:
1. It's readily available. I buy it at a local paint store, but it's
available via the internet.
2. It's easy to use. I scotchbrite the surface to be primed and clean it
with a DuPont cleaner (can't remember the product number but can get it for you
if you want it) before priming. I've sprayed surfaces after only cleaning - no
scotchbrite - but the primer doesn't stick as well.
3. No mixing required. You can buy it in gallons for spray guns or in rattle
cans for touchup or small jobs.
4. It's self etching so no prep work required.
5. My limited experience with it indicates it provides a fairly good
mechanical corrosion barrier. So far, I'm happy with it and I believe it will
assist
in avoiding long term corrosion.
Stan Sutterfield
RV-8A
Tampa, FL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Hunt" <stephen.hunt19(at)btinternet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List Digest: 4 Msgs - 02/15/04 |
Stan,
many thanks for that. Living in cool damp Yorkshire this really matters to
me. My empennage and wing materials are primed with PR 143(dont know the mil
spec) on top of a keyed up surface which has been allumipreped, then
alocrhomed. All mating surfaces are interfayed with jc 5a. I `m very happy
with that. However, running out of time we got a QB fuselage and are still
looking how to protect it.
We can get the dupont cleaner OK and will look at the Marhyde.
Many thanks for the info,
rgds
Steve
----- Original Message -----
From: "RV8-List Digest Server" <rv8-list-digest(at)matronics.com>
Subject: RV8-List Digest: 4 Msgs - 02/15/04
> *
>
> ==================================================
> Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive
> ==================================================
>
> Today's complete RV8-List Digest can be also be found in either
> of the two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest
> formatted in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked
> Indexes and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII
> version of the RV8-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic
> text editor such as Notepad or with a web browser.
>
> HTML Version:
>
>
http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv8-list/Digest.RV8-List.2004-02-15.html
>
> Text Version:
>
>
http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv8-list/Digest.RV8-List.2004-02-15.txt
>
>
> ================================================
> EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive
> ================================================
>
>
> RV8-List Digest Archive
> ---
> Total Messages Posted Sun 02/15/04: 4
>
>
> Today's Message Index:
> ----------------------
>
> 1. 01:54 AM - RV8 Floors (Mickey Coggins)
> 2. 05:15 PM - Re: Floor Rivnuts (Speedy11(at)aol.com)
> 3. 05:20 PM - Re: RV8-List Digest: 11 Msgs - 02/14/04
(Speedy11(at)aol.com)
> 4. 05:57 PM - Re: Marhyde Primer (Speedy11(at)aol.com)
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 1
_____________________________________
>
>
> From: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch>
> Subject: RV8-List: RV8 Floors
>
>
> >I'm talking about the standard BF Goodrich Installation tool with the
lever
> >action and quick slide disengage as opposed to some of the cobbled up
> >installers I've seen which don't amount to much more than a bolt and
washer.
>
> Hi,
>
> Is this tool sold by ACS?
>
> http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/speedriv.php
>
> I was also considering using these plastic clipnuts:
>
> http://www.marketingmasters.us/mmintro.htm
>
> It seems like platenuts are severe overkill for the floors and
> baggage areas, not to mention a lot of work!
>
>
> --
> Mickey Coggins
> http://www.rv8.ch/
> #82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 2
_____________________________________
>
>
> From: Speedy11(at)aol.com
> Subject: RV8-List: Re: Floor Rivnuts
>
>
> In a message dated 2/15/04 2:58:20 AM Eastern Standard Time,
> rv8-list-digest(at)matronics.com writes:
>
> << It gives me the same functionality as the
> platenuts but with a rivnut speed installer tool you can install rivnuts
in
> 30 seconds each. >>
>
> Esten,
> Great idea. Wish I had known about Rivnuts before. I also made the
baggage
> floor removable, but I did it the hard way with platenuts. I like your
idea
> better - although I've never used Rivnuts.
> Stan Sutterfield
> RV-8A
> Tampa
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 3
_____________________________________
>
>
> From: Speedy11(at)aol.com
> Subject: RV8-List: Re: RV8-List Digest: 11 Msgs - 02/14/04
>
>
> In a message dated 2/15/04 2:58:20 AM Eastern Standard Time,
> rv8-list-digest(at)matronics.com writes:
>
> << Anyway it's marked "AS3-125 2.625
> x 3.5" . If anyone can remember this guy I'd appreciate it. >>
>
> Oh no, Rich!! That is the center bracket of the airplane that everything
> attaches to and it holds the plane together.
> Sounds like that plane is worthless - you better let me take it off your
> hands and dispose of it.
> Stan
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 4
_____________________________________
>
>
> From: Speedy11(at)aol.com
> Subject: RV8-List: Re: Marhyde Primer
>
>
> In a message dated 2/15/04 2:58:20 AM Eastern Standard Time,
> rv8-list-digest(at)matronics.com writes:
>
> << Vans that all you guys in the States were very happy with the
> wash primer and that it was only the Europeans who had a "thing about
> primer". It`s nice to see that I am not alone in my concerns. I am not
> familiar with Marhyde. >>
>
> Steve,
> Van's is wrong. Most guys I've talked to are concerned about corrosion
and
> are willing to do what's necessary to reduce its impact.
> I'm using Marhyde because:
> 1. It's readily available. I buy it at a local paint store, but it's
> available via the internet.
> 2. It's easy to use. I scotchbrite the surface to be primed and clean it
> with a DuPont cleaner (can't remember the product number but can get it
for you
>
> if you want it) before priming. I've sprayed surfaces after only
cleaning - no
>
> scotchbrite - but the primer doesn't stick as well.
> 3. No mixing required. You can buy it in gallons for spray guns or in
rattle
> cans for touchup or small jobs.
> 4. It's self etching so no prep work required.
> 5. My limited experience with it indicates it provides a fairly good
> mechanical corrosion barrier. So far, I'm happy with it and I believe it
will
> assist
> in avoiding long term corrosion.
> Stan Sutterfield
> RV-8A
> Tampa, FL
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Ripley" <dougr(at)hurricanefilter.com> |
Does anyone on the list have experience with Mattituck? I am thinking about purchasing
a new experimental IO-360 from them and would appreciate any input from
listers.
I recently sent a deposit in for an engine to a well-known (perhaps one of the
best known) supplier of the experimental Lycoming clone. I had a quote in writing
that showed a price for the new engine plus a $1000 adder for a 3 year extended
warranty. I mailed in a deposit check along with an order form for the
quoted amount less $1000 for the extended warranty. They called back and told
me that the price quoted was actually for the standard warranty, and the engine
would cost $1000 more than quoted!!!!!
At the bottom of the quote there is a statement that if there is a price increase
during the build-time of the engine that it would be passed on and charged
at time of delivery. In other words, they can charge me whatever they want after
waiting 4 weeks for them to build the engine. I would normally not worry
about this.....I tend to trust people more than I should, but they have just proven
to me that the quote is worthless!!!!! I will get my deposit back, so nothing
lost but a couple of weeks spent deciding on a supplier. But, imagine
if I would have waited the full 4 weeks to find out.....I'm ready for the engine!
If any of you are purchasing an engine, DO NOT ACCEPT A QUOTATION FROM AN ENGINE
SUPPLIER THAT ALLOWS A PRICE INCREASE DURING THE BUILD!!!!!!! The company I
was dealing with is probably the only one that does this, so you'll know if you
run across this. Make them remove that statement from the quotation, or go
to another source. There are options.
Doug Ripley
RV-8 N821DT (reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Ripley" <dougr(at)hurricanefilter.com> |
Hello all:
My partner and I have spent the last month finalizing on the engine decision after
thinking about it since the day the tail kit arrived. We decided early in
the game to go with a new aircraft engine, and not long ago decided that one
of the Lycoming clones was the best deal when considering cost and reliability.
I thought that some of what we have learned may help others make their decision.
Superior and ECI are head-to-head competitors. They both build Lycoming clone
parts. ECI is not in the experimental engine building business, they just sell
parts to the people that do, such as Penn Yan, Aerosport Power, and Mattituck.
Superior, however, is in the business of building experimental engines, and
they require their distributors to sell at the same price they do. If you buy
a "Superior" engine, it will cost the same regardless of who you buy from,
AND it would be made from the exact same parts. The decision making process would
be narrowed down to freight costs and reputation of the engine builder.
There are a handful of engine builders that use ECI parts, and pricing as well
as warranty are up to the engine builder. All of the quotes we got were within
2% of each other, and warranties were close as well. Also, the engines quoted
using ECI parts were very close in price to the "Superior" engine's prices.
Our final decision was made based on the engine builder's reputation, delivery,
and warranty coverage without extra costs. Personal experiences with each
engine builder during this process had perhaps the largest impact on the decision.
Superior makes that new composite oil sump for front-draft cold air induction.
The first time we talked to them they offered it carbureted and we could use
the scoopless cowl and Van's snorkel....just had to rig up carb heat and get a
different exhaust. The composite sump is a different shape than the cast aluminum.
It fits in the cowl, but Van's does not offer an exhaust that fits the
Superior composite sump. So, Superior sent an engine to Vetterman, and he built
an exhaust. I spoke to a builder that has this engine with the new exhaust
that Vetterman designed, and he said it works perfectly, and Van's snorkel for
the front-draft injection servo fits fine, also. Any time I asked Van's about
this combination of engine/exhaust/cowl, etc. they would not comment because
it's not Lycoming, and they're not familiar with it. They did, however, say
that they plan to build an airplane up with this combination so they can speak
intelligently about it and add the FWF components to their product line, which
would include Vetterman's exhaust.
The composite sump weighs 9 lbs less than the M1B style sump that Van's offers
on the Lycoming IO360. We ordered the finish kit with the scoopless cowl. We
were about ready to order the engine a month ago, but we learned that Superior
put the carbureted version on hold due to complications with their prototype
RV7 that was experiencing rough engine in the mid throttle range. So, we switch
to fuel injection since we already ordered and received the finish kit with
the scoopless cowl, but later (last Friday) learned that the composite sump
was $1000 more than the cast aluminum.....something that we were not made aware
of until very recently.....in fact after we mailed a deposit for them to start
building the engine.
All of the problems were a result of trying to get a carbureted engine in a scoopless
cowl before the R&D was complete. Not really our fault because Superior
If we had to do it again, we would have a standard carbureted up-draft O-360
180 hp, but I'm sure that once the pain and anguish of spending extra $$$ on
fuel injection is overwith, the bird will look great without the engine air
scoop on the cowl.
Doug Ripley
RV-8 N821DT reserved....nearing completion.
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 2/16/2004 4:49:50 PM Eastern Standard Time,
dougr(at)hurricanefilter.com writes:
Hello all:
SNIP
If we had to do it again, we would have a standard carbureted up-draft O-360
180 hp, but I'm sure that once the pain and anguish of spending extra $$$ on
fuel injection is overwith, the bird will look great without the engine air
scoop on the cowl.
Doug Ripley
RV-8 N821DT reserved....nearing completion.
Interesting story. Would you have still chosen Superior if you would have
just gone with a carb'ed flavored O-360? Mattituk seems to have a better price
and twice the warranty as Superior when I was comparing recently.
lucky
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 2/16/2004 4:49:50 PM Eastern Standard Time,
dougr(at)hurricanefilter.com writes:
Hello all:
SNIP
If we had to do it again, we would have a standard carbureted up-draft O-360
180 hp, but I'm sure that once the pain and anguish of spending extra $$$ on
fuel injection is overwith, the bird will look great without the engine air
scoop on the cowl.
Doug Ripley
RV-8 N821DT reserved....nearing completion.
Interesting story. Would you have still chosen Superior if you would have
just gone with a carb'ed flavored O-360? Mattituk seems to have a better price
and twice the warranty as Superior when I was comparing recently.
lucky
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "scott" <sclarkson(at)tellurian.net> |
Hi Doug,
Last May I received my XP-360 from Mattituck and can say that I am extremely
happy. The are a class act that have been in the business longer than most
and I can't say I've ever heard anything bad about them.
I think I was one of the last to receive a true XP-360 from Mattituck before
Superior decided to build them up themselves and Mattituck started their new
clone. When I was ready to buy I kept checking Superior and Mattituck's
site for pricing and I noticed that Superior raised the price from $22900 to
$24900 for a fuel injected IO-360. Mattituck was still advertising $22900.
I figured Mattituck just didn't update their site but when I called they
assured me that $22900 was the price even after Superior's had gone up. The
deposit went out the next day and I was assured the price we agreed on would
be the price I paid. Sure enough it was. The only additional cost was a
more than fair delivery charge to my door for $100. Considering they had a
large part in the design changes in the XP-360 I though they were a safe
bet. Heck, I even got a Christmas card from them this year!
Good Luck,
Scott Clarkson
----- Original Message -----
From: "Doug Ripley" <dougr(at)hurricanefilter.com>
Subject: RV8-List: Mattituck
>
> Does anyone on the list have experience with Mattituck? I am thinking
about purchasing a new experimental IO-360 from them and would appreciate
any input from listers.
>
> I recently sent a deposit in for an engine to a well-known (perhaps one of
the best known) supplier of the experimental Lycoming clone. I had a quote
in writing that showed a price for the new engine plus a $1000 adder for a 3
year extended warranty. I mailed in a deposit check along with an order
form for the quoted amount less $1000 for the extended warranty. They
called back and told me that the price quoted was actually for the standard
warranty, and the engine would cost $1000 more than quoted!!!!!
>
> At the bottom of the quote there is a statement that if there is a price
increase during the build-time of the engine that it would be passed on and
charged at time of delivery. In other words, they can charge me whatever
they want after waiting 4 weeks for them to build the engine. I would
normally not worry about this.....I tend to trust people more than I should,
but they have just proven to me that the quote is worthless!!!!! I will get
my deposit back, so nothing lost but a couple of weeks spent deciding on a
supplier. But, imagine if I would have waited the full 4 weeks to find
out.....I'm ready for the engine!
>
> If any of you are purchasing an engine, DO NOT ACCEPT A QUOTATION FROM AN
ENGINE SUPPLIER THAT ALLOWS A PRICE INCREASE DURING THE BUILD!!!!!!! The
company I was dealing with is probably the only one that does this, so
you'll know if you run across this. Make them remove that statement from
the quotation, or go to another source. There are options.
>
> Doug Ripley
> RV-8 N821DT (reserved)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ken Dominy" <abqmooney(at)excite.com> |
I checked the same companies, and selected Penn Yan because I wanted the front
entry induction, and an aluminum sump (which cost me an extra grand from a suplier
in St louis.) I also specified the 9.0 : 1 pistons. Penn Yan also included
shipping in their price as well as dynamic balancing which others quote extra.)
The price beat Superior (my original thought) by almost $3000, delivered
to Albuquerque, with a 2 year guarantee. I also sent my O360 from my Mooney
to them for overhaul. I did have a couple of minor issues regarding parts returned.
This had to do with correct part numbers for the engine, but not the Mooney
M20g installation, which requires alternate parts numbers. They did support
me though, with no extra charges for the correct parts for the Mooney. I
have about 15 hours on the engine since installation. Oil utilization has stabilized
and I now consider the engine "broken-in." So far, I am satisfied!---
On Mon 02/16, Doug Ripley dougr@hurricanefilte
r.com wrote:From: Doug Ripley [mailto: dougr(at)hurricanefilter.com]To: rv8-list(at)matronics.comDate: Mon, 16 Feb 2004 16:48:51 -0500Subject: RV8-List: Engines-- RV8-List message posted by: "Doug Ripley" Hello all:My partner and I have spent the last month finalizing on the engine decision after thinking about it since the day the tail kit arrived. We decided early in the game to go with a new aircraft engine, and not long ago decided that one of the Lycoming clones was the best deal when considering cost and reliability. I thought that some of what we have learned may help others make their decision.Superior and ECI are head-to-head competitors. They both build Lycoming clone parts. ECI is not in the experimental engine building business, they just sell parts to the people that do, such as Penn Yan, Aerosport Power, and Mattituck. Superior, however, is in the business of building experimental engines, and they require their distributors to sell at the same price they do
. If you buy a "Superior" engine, it will cost the same regardless of who you
buy from, AND it would be made from the exact same parts. The decision making
process would be narrowed down to freight costs and reputation of the engine builder.There
are a handful of engine builders that use ECI parts, and pricing
as well as warranty are up to the engine builder. All of the quotes we got were
within 2% of each other, and warranties were close as well. Also, the engines
quoted using ECI parts were very close in price to the "Superior" engine's prices.
Our final decision was made based on the engine builder's reputation, delivery,
and warranty coverage without extra costs. Personal experiences with
each engine builder during this process had perhaps the largest impact on the
decision.Superior makes that new composite oil sump for front-draft cold air induction.
The first time we talked to them they offered it carbureted and we could
use the scoopless cowl and Van's snorkel....just
had to rig up carb heat and get a different exhaust. The composite sump is a
different shape than the cast aluminum. It fits in the cowl, but Van's does not
offer an exhaust that fits the Superior composite sump. So, Superior sent an
engine to Vetterman, and he built an exhaust. I spoke to a builder that has this
engine with the new exhaust that Vetterman designed, and he said it works
perfectly, and Van's snorkel for the front-draft injection servo fits fine, also.
Any time I asked Van's about this combination of engine/exhaust/cowl, etc.
they would not comment because it's not Lycoming, and they're not familiar with
it. They did, however, say that they plan to build an airplane up with this
combination so they can speak intelligently about it and add the FWF components!to
their product line, which would include Vetterman's exhaust.The composite
sump weighs 9 lbs less than the M1B style sump that Van's offers on the Lycoming
IO360. We ordered the finish kit with the scoopl
ess cowl. We were about ready to order the engine a month ago, but we learned
that Superior put the carbureted version on hold due to compl
Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com
The most personalized portal on the Web!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Curtis R. White" <crw(at)islands.vi> |
| Subject: | Re: Extra part, HELP |
Look at drawing #27. That is used as a spacer, on the attaching angle, between
the front spar of the vertical stabilizer and the front spar of the horizontal
stab. (if you need it).
Rich Crosley wrote:
>
> I am building an RV-8, installing engine and canopy, finish stuff. In a box
> I found the fuselage gusset bag with a one piece of aluminum left and after
> going through the drawings several times I can't find where it is used.
> Maybe it's not used on a tail dragger! Anyway it's marked "AS3-125 2.625
> x 3.5" . If anyone can remember this guy I'd appreciate it. Which drawing?
> There is a picture of it on that little gusset sheet, but no info.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Rich Crosley
> Palmdale, CA
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Ripley" <dougr(at)hurricanefilter.com> |
No, I wouldn't. Even if the price mistake wouldn't have been made, the
"Superior" engine was more expensive than the ECI option from any of the
engine builders. Again, just a couple hundred bucks difference, but the
engine builders offered better warranties at no extra charge for the ECI
build-up.
----- Original Message -----
From: <RV8ter(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV8-List: Engines
>
> In a message dated 2/16/2004 4:49:50 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> dougr(at)hurricanefilter.com writes:
>
> Hello all:
>
> SNIP
> If we had to do it again, we would have a standard carbureted up-draft
O-360
> 180 hp, but I'm sure that once the pain and anguish of spending extra $$$
on
> fuel injection is overwith, the bird will look great without the engine
air
> scoop on the cowl.
>
> Doug Ripley
> RV-8 N821DT reserved....nearing completion.
> Interesting story. Would you have still chosen Superior if you would have
> just gone with a carb'ed flavored O-360? Mattituk seems to have a better
price
> and twice the warranty as Superior when I was comparing recently.
>
> lucky
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Speedy11(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | RV-8A Main Gear Mounts |
Any RV-8A builders,
I'm trying to mount my main gear weldments and the left side fits perfectly,
but the right side can't be coaxed into position no matter what. I have a
half inch gap between the main spar and the weldment. Did anyone else have this
problem? If so, how did you solve it?
Also, How did you reach inside the spar to install the bolts that attach the
main gear weldments?
Stan Sutterfield
RV-8A
Tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com> |
| Subject: | RV-8A Main Gear Mounts |
Stan,
It has been awhile, but I had the same problem with the right gear leg
mount. I think I remember that it was just a matter of filing and fitting,
mostly in the hole through the belly skin, until it all slipped into place.
As for the bolts inside the spar, my theory at the time was that Van's did
it that way because of a wicked sense of humor. After much frustration, I
was finally able to tape a wrench to a very big screwdriver and tape the nut
into the wrench and get them started. Of course that was after losing the
washer off the bolt a few times. It took several hours to get them all in,
but it worked.
Terry
RV-8A wiring
Seattle
Any RV-8A builders,
I'm trying to mount my main gear weldments and the left side fits perfectly,
but the right side can't be coaxed into position no matter what. I have a
half inch gap between the main spar and the weldment. Did anyone else have
this
problem? If so, how did you solve it?
Also, How did you reach inside the spar to install the bolts that attach the
main gear weldments?
Stan Sutterfield
RV-8A
Tampa
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVEIGHTA(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8A Main Gear Mounts |
Stan, yep, I had the exact same problem. I measured my left mount from
various points of the "arms" and compared them to the right mount and they weren't
the same. Called Van's support and they said for me to send the mount back and
if I was right, they would send me a new one. They sent me a new one which fit
perfectly!
Bottom line, someone didn't do a good job welding up the mount. I'm a bit
surprised it's still a problem though.
Walt Shipley RV-8A N314TS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jesse laub" <jesse(at)casco.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8A Main Gear Mounts |
Stan...
I'm working on that area right now. I'm going to wait until I fit the wings
before I make anything permanent...but I have fit the weldments and attached
the small shim and mine fit up snug just as it should.
I'm wondering the same about the nuts going on inside the spar. Let me know
if you find a solution.
Jesse Laub RV 8A QB
Waldport, OR
----- Original Message -----
From: <Speedy11(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV8-List: RV-8A Main Gear Mounts
>
> Any RV-8A builders,
> I'm trying to mount my main gear weldments and the left side fits
perfectly,
> but the right side can't be coaxed into position no matter what. I have a
> half inch gap between the main spar and the weldment. Did anyone else
have this
> problem? If so, how did you solve it?
> Also, How did you reach inside the spar to install the bolts that attach
the
> main gear weldments?
> Stan Sutterfield
> RV-8A
> Tampa
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LClark6372(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 02/21/04 |
need some suggestions on placing of the ELT antenna , prefer the vert
stabilizer fiberglass area jim clark final
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <rdaulton3(at)comcast.net> |
Help..Help...A previous owner used RTV to seal the fairing around the vertical
fin/horizontal stab. Can anyone tell me what will remove the RTV. It is the
rubber compound used to seal around bathtubs, ect. Thanks much in advance.
rdaulton3(at)comcast.net.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Esten Spears" <ewspears(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | VM 1000 & Single Drive Dual Mag (DLN 3000) |
Has anyone installed a VM 1000 Engine Monitor with a Single Drive Dual Mag?
If So; What Tach Sensor did you use and where and how did you mount it??????
The instructions call for it to be placed in the gear inspection port where
it picks up the passing gear teeth. The single drive dual mag has such ports
but it uses nylon gears so I don't think the sensor would see anything.
Any help would be appreciated!
Esten Spears, RV8A, 80922, N922ES (reserved), Leeward Air Ranch, Ocala, FL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Esten Spears" <ewspears(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | VM 1000 Fuel Flowmeter & Purge Valve Installation |
Has anyone done an IO 360 200HP with a VM 1000 Fuel Flowmeter & Purge Valve
Installation???
If so; where and how did you place the purge valve and flowmeter????? I am using
standard Bendix Servo and Spider.
Any help would be appreciated!!
Esten Spears, RV8A, 80922, N922ES (reserved), Leeward Air Ranch, Ocala, FL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Lundin <rlundin46(at)yahoo.com> |
I worked with RTV alot in boat work some years ago. I
don't know of anything that breaks it down. We use to
get things loose by applying moderate pull, in this
case on the fairing, and then use a razor knife to cut
the RTV loose in several passes. Keep the pull light
to moderate and you should be fine.
Rick
--- rdaulton3(at)comcast.net wrote:
>
>
> Help..Help...A previous owner used RTV to seal the
> fairing around the vertical fin/horizontal stab.
> Can anyone tell me what will remove the RTV. It is
> the rubber compound used to seal around bathtubs,
> ect. Thanks much in advance.
> rdaulton3(at)comcast.net.
>
>
>
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/chat
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV8-List.htm
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________
http://antispam.yahoo.com/tools
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Betti" <mbetti(at)chartermi.net> |
Has any one set up a RV8 with skis? I'm thinking of building one in the future
and would require them.
Mike
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com> |
"Rv8-List" , "Rv9-List" ,
"Rv-List"
| Subject: | Quick Fit Tabs for Ground Blocks |
Hi Guys,
Just a quick update. Awhile back people were looking for the ground block
tabs separate from fuse blocks and pre-made ground blocks.
I now have several hundred in stock. They have 10 tabs, (2 double rows of
5), are the 1/4 faston, with holes for mounting to a brass bar, bulkhead,
etc..
Basically, you can "roll your own" ground blocks now, and it's much cheaper
than buying one already made. I thought about making ground blocks, but it's
easier just to sell the tabs, and let the builder make their own if they
like.
They are listed under "Accessories" on my website. Also, under switches
you'll see some new Vinyl Toggle switch boots in 6 colors. They really dress
up the switches nice!
Last thing.....I now have all the 4 conductor shielded wire in stock for the
Dynon Harnesses, and all harnesses/kits from this point forward will be
delivered with Shielded wire as standard.
Happy building and have a great day.
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
http://www.steinair.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Clark, Thomas IFC" <Tom.Clark(at)utcfuelcells.com> |
| Subject: | Alternator wiring |
Rv Guys,
I need help with my Alternator and Voltage Regulator wiring. I have Van's 35
amp alternator (Nippon Denzo??) with the external adjustable voltage
regulator and I have no wiring diagram for either to identify which wire and
which terminal is which. Does anyone have a diagram that they can fax or
e-mail me?? Help Help.
Tom Clark
RV-8 Fastback Design
860-998-9811 Fax
e-mail: tom.clark(at)utcfuelcells.com
Tom Clark
860-727-2287 Office
860-604-5826 Cell
________________________________________________________________________________
Good news for those who want the 1/4 inch thick canopy in the 2094 tint.
Todd has one left (normally he only gets that tint in 3/16).
lucky
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle) |
DNA: not not archive
| Subject: | [PLEASE READ] Virus Laden Spam Purports To Be From Matronics... |
Dear Listers,
First let me say that I normally don't condone the sharing of warnings
about Internet viruses on the Matronics Email Lists. I don't want to
start a storm of discussion regarding computer viruses on the Lists, so
please just note the information below and refrain from commenting to
the List. The circumstances I describe below are disturbing enough
that I felt an explanation is necessary. That being said...
There is a new email-bourne virus running rampant on the Internet that
is cleverly disguising itself as legitimate email warning of such
things as:
"your email account is disabled because of unauthorized access"
"Some of our clients complained about the spam (negative e-mail
content) outgoing from your e-mail account"
"Probably, you have been infected by a proxy-relay trojan server. In
order to keep your computer safe, follow the instructions."
"Our main mailing server will be temporary unavailable for next two
days, to continue receiving mail in these days you have to
configure our free auto-forwarding service."
All of these messages include an attachment that you are instructed to
click upon to "Get more information", "clean the virus from your
system", or "check your system for infections".
These enclosures all contain a virus that will infect your system and
propagate even more copies of the original message.
The disturbing part of these messages is that they appear to be coming
from very legitimate addresses and have very legitimate, convincing
dialog. For example, I have received a number of them today that
appear to be from "support(at)matronics.com", "management(at)matronics.com",
"administration(at)matronics.com", and "staff(at)matronics.com".
The text of the messages seems believable enough, and given the forged
source address, seem even more legitimate.
Please be assured that no one at Matronics.com will be sending you
these kinds of messages. If you receive one, it is a spam/virus that
has forged headers and was sent to you from someone other than
Matronics. Delete the message and the attachment promptly. Invest in
a copy of Norton Antivirus and keep the definitions up dated on a daily
basis.
Again, I want to stress that I *DO NOT* want a big discussion of
viruses on the Matronics Email Lists. Please do not reply to this
email with any comments. You may write to me directly at
dralle(at)matronics.com if you wish, but do not include the List.
Since many of these appear to come from matronics.com, I wanted to
assure everyone that Matronics wasn't the real source of these messages.
Let's be careful out there and keep those virus definitions up to date!
Today alone, the Matronics spam filter and virus blocking appliance
has filtered out 11,550 spam messages and 375 viruses! That's just in
an 18 hour period!
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "rob" <edmist_r(at)bellsouth.net> |
"Rv8-List" , "Rv9-List" ,
"Rv-List"
________________________________________________________________________________
"Rv8-List" , "Rv9-List" ,
"Rv-List"
| From: | George Frost <ghfrost(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Mag impulse assembly |
I need an impulse assembly for a slick magneto, part number M3529.
Anyone have an extra one for sale or can suggest a source? AC Spruce
is out of stock.
George
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pcondon" <pcondon(at)mitre.org> |
| Subject: | RV8-List Alternator wiring ........ Get Elect. Bobs Handbook |
!!
Get yourself a copy of Electric Bobs Aircraft Electrical Handbook. This
handbook has schematics with which you can wire your airplane as well as the
"cliff notes" on why you doing what you are doing and a basic theory
paragraph or two for background. I think Appendix Z has exactly what you
want. Being a EE myself, I found this book a very handy and practical
addition to my book shelf. My wiring diagram is exactly as in Bobs book.
RV8-List: Alternator wiring
Rv Guys,
I need help with my Alternator and Voltage Regulator wiring. I have Van's 35
amp alternator (Nippon Denzo??) with the external adjustable voltage
regulator and I have no wiring diagram for either to identify which wire and
which terminal is which. Does anyone have a diagram that they can fax or
e-mail me?? Help Help.
Tom Clark
RV-8 Fastback Design
860-998-9811 Fax
e-mail: tom.clark(at)utcfuelcells.com
Tom Clark
860-727-2287 Office
860-604-5826 Cell
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Colm J O'Reilly" <colm(at)oreilco.com> |
| Subject: | Electric Bob's handbook |
Where can I get this ?
I couldn't find it on Ac Spruce or Amazon ...?
Colm O'Reilly
Getting started , RV8 - emp - HS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com> |
| Subject: | Electric Bob's handbook |
You can get it directly from the author at this
site:http://aeroelectric.com/Catalog/AECcatalog.html I think Andy at
Builder's Bookstore also sells it.
Very much worth the $30 or so, and he publishes free updates.
Terry
RV-8A wiring
Seattle
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Schad" <schad(at)cooke.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Electric Bob's handbook |
Why don't you simply call Van's and ask them for a wiring diagram for the
alternator?
----- Original Message -----
From: "Colm J O'Reilly" <colm(at)oreilco.com>
Subject: RV8-List: Electric Bob's handbook
>
>
> Where can I get this ?
> I couldn't find it on Ac Spruce or Amazon ...?
>
> Colm O'Reilly
> Getting started , RV8 - emp - HS
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch> |
| Subject: | Two batteries in the back |
Hi,
To avoid re-inventing the wheel, has anyone got
a design for putting two batteries in the back
on an RV8? I'm looking at something about the
size of an Odyssey 680, I believe.
Thanks,
Mickey
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ian Findlay" <ianjo(at)omninet.net.au> |
| Subject: | Fixed ELT in 8 aft fuse. |
Hi RV8er,
The only good reason IMHO to fit a fixed ELT in the aft fuse of an RV8, is if the
builder has an unfixable fwd c of g problem.
There are those that like building and add extra stuff to prolong the process,
or impress their mates. I am sure that you are not one of these folk, but I am
sure you have seen them around.
The result is many grossly over weight airplanes, full of goodies, that waddle
out to the runway legs spread and tires half flat.
These overweight birds are not nice to fly, ask Van.
Be safe, carry a lightweight portable ELT when flyin' over the boondocks out of
radar coverage.
Happy flyin',
Ian.
----- Original Message -----
From: Ian Findlay
Subject: ELT
G'day from Downunder,
Most Experimentals here do not fit "installed" ELT but use lightweight portable
units for safety reasons.(most sensible spam can owners do too.)
If your RV has the misfortune to finish up inverted perhaps in a forest, or if
it gets damaged the top mounted antenna is useless.
A friend of mine Don Miller who owns the well known Burketown Hotel in the NT owes
his life and that of his passenger to the portable ELT carried in his shirt
pocket and secured with a lanyard around his neck.
The installed ELT in his Cessna was bleating away unheard from down in the seaweed
25' under the surface of the Gulf of Carpentaria. The portable had the Airforce
chopper there, to this remote place, some hours later to winch them out
of the water.
Aussie aircraft owners were in revolt a decade ago when our CAA tried to mandate
fixed ELT.
Investigation of distress calls and rescues from records found that portables were
very effective and for various reasons fixed had a poor record.
After hectic political lobbying we won and the portable is a legal, and safer,
alternative.
Another benefit is that if the crew have reason to leave the crash site they take
the portable with them.
Hope this helps. Your RV will be lighter, and you, safer.
Tailwinds.
Ian Findlay.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch> |
| Subject: | Fixed ELT in 8 aft fuse. |
>The only good reason IMHO to fit a fixed ELT in the aft fuse of an RV8, is if
the
>builder has an unfixable fwd c of g problem.
I guess the other reason is that the local authorities
where you have your plane registered require it! :-)
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fixed ELT in 8 aft fuse. |
In a message dated 3/7/2004 8:59:37 PM Eastern Standard Time,
ianjo(at)omninet.net.au writes:
Hi RV8er,
The only good reason IMHO to fit a fixed ELT in the aft fuse of an RV8, is if
the builder has an unfixable fwd c of g problem.
Yeah, that's my problem. Stock gear, Angle valve IO 360 plus heavy Hartzell,
lightweight pc680 battery in the back plus me at only 190 pounds in my
heaviest winter garb is going to make for a nose heavy airplane when flown solo
and
I'm afraid that when low on fuel might even be out of the forward CG range. I
am even thinking of adding an inverted oil system to compound matters.
Any other ideas for moving CG to the back short of dead weight?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Roger Crandell" <rwc000(at)hotmail.com> |
rv8-list(at)matronics.com, rv9-list(at)matronics.com
Can anyone recommend a source for a two port (two transducer) manifold?
Van's sells a three port unit, but I only need two ports. I could cut off
one port on the Van's unit, but would rather not do that.
Thanks Roger Crandell
Get business advice and resources to improve your work life, from bCentral.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ewspears(at)comcast.net (Esten Spears) |
| Subject: | "We Love RV's" Gathering at Leeward Air Ranch |
You are invited to view a Photo Album from Esten Spears.
Hope you like the RV8/P51 formation shots. It was a real handful for the RV Pilots
since the 25 knot gusts and turbulence pushed them around a lot more than
the P51.
Sign up with Club Photo today and get 25 cent 4x6 prints!
Photo Album:
http://www.clubphoto.com/reward.php?id=2100661&mid=members16_esten814128&pwd
Top 5 reasons to join Club Photo today!
1) Get quality prints from that new digital camera you got
2) Share photos online
3) Send in film, get prints, and share the pictures online
4) Buy great photo gifts for the holidays
You can join today at ...
http://www.clubphoto.com/_cgi-bin/members/sign_up.pl
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Garey Wittich <gareywittich2000(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Use a special Bucking Bar inside the HS ? |
There is not much space "inside" the Horiz Stabilizer
Assy to hold a Bucking Bar against the Rivet closed to
the leading edge of the inner most Rib (HS607), as I
reach my arm inside. Did you use a special Bucking
Bar? It seems like a "hit and miss" situation to get
a good shop head on this rivet, as it is done by
Braille. If one screws up, it seems to me it would be
difficult to drill it out without doing damage. Any
helpfull ideas ? Did you use a "Pop Rivet" because of
accessability ? If so what was it. All Skins and
Ribs are dimpled for a -3 Rivet, so a CS4-4 ( 4/32 )
is too big in diameter.
Thanks, Garey RV-8A QB Kit Santa Monica, CA
__________________________________
http://search.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "olc" <olcdlm(at)wanadoo.fr> |
| Subject: | Use a special Bucking Bar inside the HS ? |
i used the 610 Bucking bar 1-1/2 lbs. from avery tools.
but on the flange of the bucking bar (after smooting the flange with
scotbrite wheel)
Olivier LC
France
ICQ#: 82067330
olcdlm(at)wanadoo.fr
http://perso.wanadoo.fr/sanglier.volant/ Van's RV-8 n81939 wings
> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]De la part de Garey Wittich
> Envoy : mercredi 10 mars 2004 07:44
> : rv8-list(at)matronics.com
> Objet : RV8-List: Use a special Bucking Bar inside the HS ?
>
>
> There is not much space "inside" the Horiz Stabilizer
> Assy to hold a Bucking Bar against the Rivet closed to
> the leading edge of the inner most Rib (HS607), as I
> reach my arm inside. Did you use a special Bucking
> Bar? It seems like a "hit and miss" situation to get
> a good shop head on this rivet, as it is done by
> Braille. If one screws up, it seems to me it would be
> difficult to drill it out without doing damage. Any
> helpfull ideas ? Did you use a "Pop Rivet" because of
> accessability ? If so what was it. All Skins and
> Ribs are dimpled for a -3 Rivet, so a CS4-4 ( 4/32 )
> is too big in diameter.
>
> Thanks, Garey RV-8A QB Kit Santa Monica, CA
>
> __________________________________
> http://search.yahoo.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "MSices" <msices(at)core.com> |
2 KX155As with glideslope. Units are new or Factory Overhauled with trays
(no connectors). Bought them cheap, will sell for $1500 ea. Units are 28v
but for $150-300 you can get an small inverter to take care of one or both
units in a 14v system. If interested, email michael(at)sices.com or call me at
(847) 644-8003. Thanks,
Mike Sices
RV8 N339JA, flying :>
---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pcondon" <pcondon(at)mitre.org> |
| Subject: | Use a special Bucking Bar inside the HS ? Use Axe head or log |
splitter wedge
---
I have had success with the log splitting wedge sold in hardware stores. The
long taper wedge shape is perfect for that whole area in general. Axe heads
tend to be sharp and are hollow ground and are usually attached to a large
piece of hickory. The wood splitting wedges tend yield superior results...I
used this wedge for many other applications during the building
process....can't recall right now though.......
From: Garey Wittich <gareywittich2000(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: RV8-List: Use a special Bucking Bar inside the HS ?
There is not much space "inside" the Horiz Stabilizer
Assy to hold a Bucking Bar against the Rivet closed to
the leading edge of the inner most Rib (HS607), as I
reach my arm inside. Did you use a special Bucking
Bar? It seems like a "hit and miss" situation to get
a good shop head on this rivet, as it is done by
Braille. If one screws up, it seems to me it would be
difficult to drill it out without doing damage. Any
helpfull ideas ? Did you use a "Pop Rivet" because of
accessability ? If so what was it. All Skins and
Ribs are dimpled for a -3 Rivet, so a CS4-4 ( 4/32 )
is too big in diameter.
Thanks, Garey RV-8A QB Kit Santa Monica, CA
__________________________________
http://search.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michel Gordillo" <michelgordillo(at)telefonica.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Use a special Bucking Bar inside the HS ? Use Axe head |
or log splitter wedge
It was OK to use the flat side of a hammer head.
Michel
----- Original Message -----
From: "pcondon" <pcondon(at)mitre.org>
Subject: RV8-List: Use a special Bucking Bar inside the HS ? Use Axe head or
log splitter wedge
>
>
> ---
> I have had success with the log splitting wedge sold in hardware stores.
The
> long taper wedge shape is perfect for that whole area in general. Axe
heads
> tend to be sharp and are hollow ground and are usually attached to a large
> piece of hickory. The wood splitting wedges tend yield superior
results...I
> used this wedge for many other applications during the building
> process....can't recall right now though.......
>
>
> From: Garey Wittich <gareywittich2000(at)yahoo.com>
> Subject: RV8-List: Use a special Bucking Bar inside the HS ?
>
>
> There is not much space "inside" the Horiz Stabilizer
> Assy to hold a Bucking Bar against the Rivet closed to
> the leading edge of the inner most Rib (HS607), as I
> reach my arm inside. Did you use a special Bucking
> Bar? It seems like a "hit and miss" situation to get
> a good shop head on this rivet, as it is done by
> Braille. If one screws up, it seems to me it would be
> difficult to drill it out without doing damage. Any
> helpfull ideas ? Did you use a "Pop Rivet" because of
> accessability ? If so what was it. All Skins and
> Ribs are dimpled for a -3 Rivet, so a CS4-4 ( 4/32 )
> is too big in diameter.
>
> Thanks, Garey RV-8A QB Kit Santa Monica, CA
>
> __________________________________
> http://search.yahoo.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Noel & Yoshie Simmons" <noel(at)blueskyaviation.net> |
888FP took to the air yesterday. What a great ride!
Van's RV-8A
BMA EFIS 1
CNX-80
IO-360-A1B6
inverted oil
inverted fuel
Aero Composites
Todd's 1/4 canopy
Sincerely,
Noel Simmons
Blue Sky Aviation, Inc.
Phone & Fax: 406-538-6574
noel(at)blueskyaviation.net
www.blueskyaviation.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVEIGHTA(at)aol.com |
Noel, allright! Another 8A flies. Congrats, you're gonna love it.
Walt Shipley RV-8A N314TS 78 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Norman Younie" <rv6capt(at)pacificcoast.net> |
| Subject: | TV Camera for Sale |
I know a few guys are thinking about installing cameras on their aircraft. Here's
a camera that I can get for whoever is interested. This is just the camera,
receiver, antenna and transformers - they work on 9V, NTSC system 380 lines,
color and sound. Quality is excellent. You will still need a recorder to record
the images. The photo pretty much speaks for itself. If anyone wants more
information, contact me at rv6capt(at)pacificcoast.net
$78 (US) each set
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Noel & Yoshie Simmons" <noel(at)blueskyaviation.net> |
"Rv-List(at)Matronics. Com" ,
"Rv9-List(at)Matronics. Com" ,
"Rv8-List(at)Matronics. Com" ,
, ,
, ,
I am posting this to all the RV lists so if you get duplicates dont be
upset.
It is that time for me at Blue Sky Aviation to add another set of
experienced hands. I am looking for someone with prior building experience,
A&P would be nice, along with private pilot ticket. Must be trustworthy,
hard working, reliable, and a good eye for detail.
If you are or know of someone, please have him or her give me a call or drop
me an email. This is a full time permanent position and is available
immediately.
Sincerely,
Noel Simmons
Blue Sky Aviation, Inc.
Phone & Fax: 406-538-6574
noel(at)blueskyaviation.net
www.blueskyaviation.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Al Grajek" <algrajek(at)msn.com> |
vansairforce(at)yahoogroups.com
| Subject: | Prop Installation |
I am getting ready to install my Hartzell C/S Prop on my O-360. I can not
find any literature regarding this> Other than putting the o- ring in, is
there any thing else to do other than just bolting it on? I see there are
two ways it can be mounted. Does it matter?
Thanks in advance
Al Grajek
RV8
Get rid of annoying pop-up ads with the new MSN Toolbar FREE!
http://clk.atdmt.com/AVE/go/onm00200414ave/direct/01/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Clark, Thomas IFC" <Tom.Clark(at)utcfuelcells.com> |
| Subject: | Prop Installation |
It only goes on one way as one of the prop nut inserts on the prop is a
different size.
Tom Clark
-----Original Message-----
From: Al Grajek [mailto:algrajek(at)msn.com]
vansairforce(at)yahoogroups.com
Subject: RV8-List: Prop Installation
I am getting ready to install my Hartzell C/S Prop on my O-360. I can not
find any literature regarding this> Other than putting the o- ring in, is
there any thing else to do other than just bolting it on? I see there are
two ways it can be mounted. Does it matter?
Thanks in advance
Al Grajek
RV8
Get rid of annoying pop-up ads with the new MSN Toolbar FREE!
http://clk.atdmt.com/AVE/go/onm00200414ave/direct/01/
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Prop Installation |
Lube the O ring and shaft before installing.
>
>I am getting ready to install my Hartzell C/S Prop on my O-360. I can not
>find any literature regarding this> Other than putting the o- ring in, is
>there any thing else to do other than just bolting it on? I see there are
>two ways it can be mounted. Does it matter?
>Thanks in advance
>Al Grajek
>RV8
>
>Get rid of annoying pop-up ads with the new MSN Toolbar FREE!
>http://clk.atdmt.com/AVE/go/onm00200414ave/direct/01/
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WBflyrite(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List Digest: 4 Msgs - 03/18/04 |
Tony,
Hey there weren't any files attached
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ken Simmons" <ken(at)truckstop.com> |
I've been trying to decide on instruments and am asking for opinions on the "need"
for a G-meter in the 8. I plan on doing normal RV type aerobatics and I understand
these can get kind of interesting if not done correctly. Is the G meter
of any use during the maneuver or just to tell you how bad it was?
Thanks.
Ken
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV_8 Pilot" <rv_8pilot(at)hotmail.com> |
If you plan on any acro, get a G-meter. IMVHO, they're required equipment
in an aerobatic plane that *can* be broken.
Coincidentally, I have one for sale. :) It's mechanical and works very
well. Was recently replaced with a Dynon. Write me if interested.
rv_8pilot(at)hotmail.com
Bryan Jones -8 608 hrs
www.LoneStarSquadron.com
Houston, Texas
>
>I've been trying to decide on instruments and am asking for opinions on the
>"need" for a G-meter in the 8. I plan on doing normal RV type aerobatics
>and I understand these can get kind of interesting if not done correctly.
>Is the G meter of any use during the maneuver or just to tell you how bad
>it was?
>
>Thanks.
>Ken
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Lervold" <randy(at)romeolima.com> |
| Subject: | Re: [rv8list] G-meter |
I wouldn't have an RV without one. Skilled aerobatic pilots who fly frequently
can probably tell by the feel what the G load is, but I can't. Once I get over
about 3 then 4/5/6 all feel about the same, yet you REALLY need to know this.
I think it's especially important when you botch a maneuver... both airspeed
and G load can get out of hand really fast. Jerry Vangrunsven thinks its so important
that he encourages builders to locate their G-meter up toward the top
of the panel right next to the ASI.
FWIW,
Randy Lervold
RV-8, 368 hrs, sold
RV-3B, starting construction, www.romeolima.com/RV3factory.htm
----- Original Message -----
From: Ken Simmons
To: rv8list(at)yahoogroups.com ; rv8-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, March 23, 2004 9:05 AM
Subject: [rv8list] G-meter
I've been trying to decide on instruments and am asking for opinions on the "need"
for a G-meter in the 8. I plan on doing normal RV type aerobatics and I
understand these can get kind of interesting if not done correctly. Is the G meter
of any use during the maneuver or just to tell you how bad it was?
Thanks.
Ken
Information exchange for builders of Vans Aircraft RV-8 kits.
IF YOU WISH TO UNSUBSCRIBE, PLEASE SEND AN EMAIL TO :
rv8list-unsubscribe(at)egroups.com
a.. To visit your group on the web, go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/rv8list/
b.. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
rv8list-unsubscribe(at)yahoogroups.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Ripley" <dougr(at)hurricanefilter.com> |
My $0.02
If you're going to do any kind of aerobatics you should have one. Consider
the "G" limitations for the -8 being different at different gross weights.
You should always be aware if you are exceeding them. It's just as
important as the markings on the airspeed indicator.
As you become more accustomed to aerobatics and higher positive G's, you
become more immune to them. You could easily get to where you're pulling
more than the aircraft is rated without knowing. Remember the first time
you did 60 degree bank turns and you thought that was a lot of G's? That's
nothing now!
My brother had been doing loops and spins in a J-3. He claimed that he was
able to get a barrel roll out of a 65 hp Cub. I didn't believe him, so he
took me for a roll. I couldn't believe what he was doing!! He would dive
to red-line, pull up HARD and crank in full up elevator and left & right
rudder. Yes, he did it, but I'm guessing he was pulling about 6 or 7
asymmetrical G's in a 1946 Cub. He had never flown an airplane with a G
meter, and had grown used to the higher G's. Now he's an ag pilot flying a
worn-out Thrush, and he's proud that he can turn faster than any of the
other pilots.......I really wish he had a G meter.
Even if you get one of the cheaper ones that don't record, it's a useful
instrument that will keep you operating within the limitations.
Doug
RV8 flying by July
N821DT
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ken Simmons" <ken(at)truckstop.com>
Subject: RV8-List: G-meter
>
> I've been trying to decide on instruments and am asking for opinions on
the "need" for a G-meter in the 8. I plan on doing normal RV type aerobatics
and I understand these can get kind of interesting if not done correctly. Is
the G meter of any use during the maneuver or just to tell you how bad it
was?
>
> Thanks.
> Ken
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com> |
Hi Ken,
As one who can't seem to fly my RV right side up on nearly every flight, I
can definately recommend a
"G-Meter". If you're not really sure what 2 or 3 G's is in your RV, you
should get one. The reason I pick those numbers is that most every maneuver
can be done in that envelope unless you start getting crazy.
That being said, if you fall on your back out of a hammerhead, do a split-s
out of a roll, or flub up a loop/cuban 8, things can get real exciting, REAL
fast. The G-Meter lets you start out easy and see what the forces feel like
before you try anything too hard.
Anyway, have fun with your RV, but be carefull, these are slippery devils!
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
RV6's, Minneapolis.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ken Simmons
Subject: RV8-List: G-meter
I've been trying to decide on instruments and am asking for opinions on the
"need" for a G-meter in the 8. I plan on doing normal RV type aerobatics and
I understand these can get kind of interesting if not done correctly. Is the
G meter of any use during the maneuver or just to tell you how bad it was?
Thanks.
Ken
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bill(at)vondane.com> |
| Subject: | Re: [rv8list] G-meter |
"rv8-list(at)matronics.com"
<003b01c410ff$5d24e360$0d64a8c0@firstaidonly.com>
I have been taking acro instruction from my Buddy Dave Petri in his Yak 52:
http://www.vondane.com/otherpix/petri/index.htm and when I was re-cutting my
panel he highly encouraged me to put my g-meter up high next to my airspeed
indicator... So I did: http://www.vondane.com/rv8a/upgrades/196-2.jpg
-Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: "Randy Lervold" <randy(at)romeolima.com>
Subject: Re: [rv8list] G-meter
I wouldn't have an RV without one. Skilled aerobatic pilots who fly
frequently can probably tell by the feel what the G load is, but I can't.
Once I get over about 3 then 4/5/6 all feel about the same, yet you REALLY
need to know this. I think it's especially important when you botch a
maneuver... both airspeed and G load can get out of hand really fast. Jerry
Vangrunsven thinks its so important that he encourages builders to locate
their G-meter up toward the top of the panel right next to the ASI.
FWIW,
Randy Lervold
RV-8, 368 hrs, sold
RV-3B, starting construction, www.romeolima.com/RV3factory.htm
----- Original Message -----
From: Ken Simmons
To: rv8list(at)yahoogroups.com ; rv8-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, March 23, 2004 9:05 AM
Subject: [rv8list] G-meter
I've been trying to decide on instruments and am asking for opinions on
the "need" for a G-meter in the 8. I plan on doing normal RV type aerobatics
and I understand these can get kind of interesting if not done correctly. Is
the G meter of any use during the maneuver or just to tell you how bad it
was?
Thanks.
Ken
Information exchange for builders of Vans Aircraft RV-8 kits.
IF YOU WISH TO UNSUBSCRIBE, PLEASE SEND AN EMAIL TO :
rv8list-unsubscribe(at)egroups.com
--
a.. To visit your group on the web, go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/rv8list/
b.. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
rv8list-unsubscribe(at)yahoogroups.com
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Printer at MyInks.com. Free s/h on orders $50 or more to the US & Canada.
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Information exchange for builders of Vans Aircraft RV-8 kits.
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michel Gordillo" <michelgordillo(at)telefonica.net> |
| Subject: | relay from Kitfox list |
I just put my Rocky Mountain Instruments MicroEncoder on ebay if anyone is
interested. It's a great unit, but I already had all the flight instruments
installed and decided not to use it.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=26436&item
=2470134705
If anyone is also on the RV list and I would appreciate passing this info on
to them.
SteveZ
Calgary
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cory Emberson" <bootless(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Santa Maria CA Fly-In (April 30-May 2) |
Hello everyone!
With Matt Dralle's blessing (thank you, Matt!), I'm pleased to post this announcement
for a terrific aviation fly-in weekend. SMXgig (in Santa Maria, CA) has
become the year's largest face-to-face get-together of electronically networked
aviators. We hope you'll plan to attend because we expect this year's gig to
be the best ever.
People come from all over the country (and sometimes overseas) to attend, and most of the sessions qualify for FAA Wings cards. The dates are 4/30-5/2/04 (Friday-Sunday) - it's a lot of fun, and a great chance for pilots from all over to mingle and share aviation stories, ideas, etc. The announcement below contains most of the crucial information, and you can get the rest from the website (www.smxgig.org). If you have any questions at all, just let me know, and thanks!
~~Cory Emberson
KHWD
August 20, 2003 - March 30, 2004
RV8-Archive.digest.vol-af