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March 30, 2004 - December 05, 2004

>>> NOTICE TO AIRMEN! <<< Announcing the Sixteenth Annual SMXgig to be held on April 30 - May 2, 2004 at the Radisson on the Santa Maria (CA) Airport (aka SMX) www.smxgig.org SMXgig will be April 30 - May 2, 2004, at the Santa Maria Radisson. This year, our featured speaker after Friday night's dinner will be Rod Machado! "MACH 2 WITH MACHADO" is the byline Rod Machado has earned for his rapid fire delivery at his lively safety seminars and keynote speeches. His programs are information-packed, energetic, and humorous. He has spoken in all fifty of the United States and in Europe sharing his fresh approach to aviation education. If you can make it, please do. It's going to be pretty special. More information and the announcement/ registration info is available at www.smxgig.org You may also contact me by email at: cory(at)smxgig.org. All technical sessions will be held in the Enterprise Ballroom at the SMX Radisson. Each session will last about an hour. We schedule four tech sessions on Saturday morning, and four on Sunday morning. Most of the speakers are set (I'm still firming up a couple of slots - I'm working on a session about Experimentals): MIKE BUSCH - The Art and Science of Troubleshooting Your A frequently, that person is you. That's particularly true of problems that occur only in-flight and/or are intermittent. This session offers methodology for troubleshooting aimed at aircraft owners who aren't A&Ps. ED WILLIAMS - GPS - How It Works, and How to Work It Ed is a nuclear physicist working at Lawrence Livermore Labs. Ed does a remarkable job of making physics phun! BRENT BLUE, M.D. - Pilot Medicals: How to Avoid Problems with the FAA Brent is an AME Advocate, who specializes in helping the tough cases renew their medicals. He's a former member of EAA's medical advisory committee. DOUG RITTER - Equipping Yourself To Survive - Personal Survival Gear for Pilots Doug is a survival evangelist, personally driven to help pilots live through whatever comes next. www.equipped.org PAUL MILLNER - The Future of Avgas Paul works with ChevronTexaco, and is right in the middle of the industry developments regarding our fuel of choice. MARY DUFFY & UWE LEMKE - Flying in Europe Mary and Uwe are a Scot and a German who live in the San Francisco Bay Area, but return "home" often. As always, each qualifying session will get you a WINGS Safety Session card. Our Saturday evening event should be a delicious one! At 5:45 p.m., the BFUB (Big Fat Ugly Bus) will arrive at the Santa Maria Radisson to bring us to the Far Western Tavern for dinner in beautiful Guadalupe (www.farwesterntavern.com). DOLLARS AND CENTS Just as in previous years, there will be one flat all-encompassing "gig" fee that covers all events that involve significant out-of-pocket costs for the organizers. The fee is $160 per person, and will cover: - Friday afternoon welcome party - Friday evening dinner banquet - Saturday and Sunday tech sessions - Saturday afternoon lunch - Saturday evening dinner at the Far Western Tavern in Guadalupe - Meeting rooms and coffee service at the Santa Maria Radisson - Transportation to (and from) the Far Western Tavern Lodging at the SMX Radisson will cost $89.00/night for either a single or double room, which is far below the regular hotel room rate. Be sure you check in as a SMXgig attendee and get the special rate. We have our definitive preference listed with the hotel for rampside rooms - early registration can only help, but of course, the rampside rooms are subject to availability depending on how many existing guests are in those rooms. You do not need to register with the hotel - just give me your preferences, and I will take care of the reservations. Important: This year, our final rooming lists are due to the hotel on April 11, 2004 (the even of Sun 'n Fun), which will guarantee space and the group rate. The hotel will accept additional room reservations after that, on a space- and rate-available basis. They will try their best to accommodate us after that date, but the hotel is already sold out for the weekend. The website (www.smxgig.org) has detailed information about the schedule, meals, hotel accommodations, and online registration. If you'd like your own announcement/registration emailed to you, or have any other questions, just let me know. (cory(at)smxgig.org or bootless(at)earthlink.net ). Thanks, and see you there! best, Cory Emberson ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Doug Ripley" <dougr(at)hurricanefilter.com>
Subject: Heat Box
Date: Mar 30, 2004
I'm building a -8 installing IO-360-M1B. The FWF kit will be here today, but the engine won't arrive for another 3-4 weeks. Can anyone give me a good recommendation on where to locate the cabin heat box on the firewall? I want to go ahead and install as much stuff on the firewall as possible before installing the engine. Don't want to find out later that I put it in the wrong spot! Maybe the drawings for the FWF kit will give a location? Thanks in advance, Doug Ripley N821DT (reserved) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com>
Subject: QB fuselage items to complete
Date: Mar 30, 2004
Listers, I have a quick build RV-8 fuselage. I am working through the builders manual to identify which items are done and which need to be completed. Has anyone invented this wheel yet? Can anyone point me to a checklist of items that remain to be done on the QB fuselage? Stephen Soule Swanton, Vermont RV-6A N227RV flying RV-8 N222SZ wings nearing completion QB fuselage items to complete Listers, I have a quick build RV-8 fuselage. I am working through the builders manual to identify which items are done and which need to be completed. Has anyone invented this wheel yet? Can anyone point me to a checklist of items that remain to be done on the QB fuselage? Stephen Soule Swanton, Vermont RV-6A N227RV flying RV-8 N222SZ wings nearing completion ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 30, 2004
From: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
Subject: Re: Heat Box
As far as I could tell, your limited to right between the rudder peddles. Baggage compartment on the left and fuel/cables on the right. Of course with more work you could put it anywhere you want. The easy spot, between the ruder peddles. > >I'm building a -8 installing IO-360-M1B. The FWF kit will be here today, >but the engine won't arrive for another 3-4 weeks. Can anyone give me a >good recommendation on where to locate the cabin heat box on the firewall? >I want to go ahead and install as much stuff on the firewall as possible >before installing the engine. Don't want to find out later that I put it in >the wrong spot! > >Maybe the drawings for the FWF kit will give a location? > >Thanks in advance, >Doug Ripley >N821DT (reserved) > > Scott Bilinski Eng dept 305 Phone (858) 657-2536 Pager (858) 502-5190 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 30, 2004
From: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch>
Subject: Re: QB fuselage items to complete
>I have a quick build RV-8 fuselage. I am working through the builders manual >to identify which items are done and which need to be completed. Has anyone >invented this wheel yet? Can anyone point me to a checklist of items that >remain to be done on the QB fuselage? I don't have a clear checklist, but I can tell you that everything before the part where you run the rudder cables seems to be done, IIRC. My book is in the shop or I would give you a quick rundown. It is kind of strange that they don't bother noting what is already done with the QB. I didn't find it too tricky to figure out, but it took time. I'd also love to see an index for the part numbers referenced in the text. A bit of advice - be careful when you drill the holes to mount the HS! -- Mickey Coggins http://www.rv8.ch/ #82007 QB Wings/Fuselage ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com>
Subject: QB fuselage items to complete
Date: Mar 30, 2004
Mickey, Thanks for the information. I checked with Van's before contacting the List. I was told that they had no checklist of work left to complete, either. It is a bit tedious working through the manual and checking each item off, but I suppose that it orients the builder to the machine! Steve -----Original Message----- From: Mickey Coggins [mailto:mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch] Subject: Re: RV8-List: QB fuselage items to complete >I have a quick build RV-8 fuselage. I am working through the builders >manual to identify which items are done and which need to be completed. >Has anyone invented this wheel yet? Can anyone point me to a checklist >of items that remain to be done on the QB fuselage? I don't have a clear checklist, but I can tell you that everything before the part where you run the rudder cables seems to be done, IIRC. My book is in the shop or I would give you a quick rundown. It is kind of strange that they don't bother noting what is already done with the QB. I didn't find it too tricky to figure out, but it took time. I'd also love to see an index for the part numbers referenced in the text. A bit of advice - be careful when you drill the holes to mount the HS! -- Mickey Coggins http://www.rv8.ch/ #82007 QB Wings/Fuselage advertising on the Matronics Forums. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 30, 2004
From: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
Subject: Re: QB fuselage items to complete
Vans said it so the builder will be more familiar with everything if you have to find out for your self. > > >>I have a quick build RV-8 fuselage. I am working through the builders manual >>to identify which items are done and which need to be completed. Has anyone >>invented this wheel yet? Can anyone point me to a checklist of items that >>remain to be done on the QB fuselage? > >I don't have a clear checklist, but I can tell you that everything >before the part where you run the rudder cables seems to be done, IIRC. >My book is in the shop or I would give you a quick rundown. > >It is kind of strange that they don't bother noting what is >already done with the QB. I didn't find it too tricky to >figure out, but it took time. I'd also love to see an index >for the part numbers referenced in the text. > >A bit of advice - be careful when you drill the holes to mount the HS! > > >-- >Mickey Coggins >http://www.rv8.ch/ >#82007 QB Wings/Fuselage > > Scott Bilinski Eng dept 305 Phone (858) 657-2536 Pager (858) 502-5190 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 30, 2004
From: Garey Wittich <gareywittich2000(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: A GUIDE TO AIRCRAFT PAINTING & CORROSION CONTROL
rv7-list(at)matronics.com, rv8-list(at)matronics.com For helpful information see: See Nov 03 Archieves: "A GUIDE TO AIRCRAFT PAINTING & CORROSION CONTROL" __________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David Grebe" <davidgrebe(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Heat Box
Date: Mar 30, 2004
Doug, On my -8 I've got the same engine and put the heat box just off the left rudder pedal position, and vertically about centered between the oil reservoir and the fuel line. My thinking is that for starters I'm using a simple deflector to spread the heat out, and after some time in the air I can get to it easy enough inside to add defroster and/or directed heat runs. Dave Grebe N841G (gas in tanks, oil in sump, hoping to start the engine for 1st time this weekend) North Wales, PA I'm building a -8 installing IO-360-M1B. The FWF kit will be here today, but the engine won't arrive for another 3-4 weeks. Can anyone give me a good recommendation on where to locate the cabin heat box on the firewall? I want to go ahead and install as much stuff on the firewall as possible before installing the engine. Don't want to find out later that I put it in the wrong spot! Maybe the drawings for the FWF kit will give a location? Thanks in advance, Doug Ripley N821DT (reserved) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Lenleg(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 01, 2004
Subject: Re: Please save me from RV-8 remorse
In a message dated 4/1/2004 4:24:26 PM Eastern Standard Time, mikel(at)SSD.FSI.com writes: > Fellow RV-8/8A lovers, > > I was just making more progress on my wings last night, when a nasty thought > hit me: "Why am I building an RV-8 -- an RV-7 would be much better, in > terms of passenger comfort, as a platform for getting my instrument rating, > and in terms of baggage space." > > When I started on my -8, I was single, and had the "fighter plane" > mentality. Now that I just got married, I have to think that maybe the wife > would be happier in a side-by-side. I even considered trying to figure out > if my existing -8 wings and tail could be used in a -7, but alas, I have > already received the -8 fuselage. (FWIW, the wife has not expressed a > tandem/SBS preference either way; she just wishes I would take her flying in > SOMETHING first before this plane is done...) ;-) > > So, what I'm hoping for is for some encouragement from some of y'all who are > happily flying your RV-8's/RV-8A's that I've got a great plane going here > and that I don't need to backtrack to doing a -7. > > Thanks for any encouragement. > > Michael Lawson > Michael: My wife flies with me in my 8A a lot. Longest trip was from North Carolina to Key West. She does not have an interest in working the radios, flying the plane, etc. so she is perfectly happy in the tandem. If she wanted to be more of a "pilot" or "helper" then maybe she would prefer SBS. Len Leggette, RV-8A Greensboro, NC N910LL 222 hrs ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Crosley, Rich" <RCROSLEY(at)HRTEXTRON.TEXTRON.COM>
Subject: Re: Please save me from RV-8 remorse
Date: Apr 02, 2004
I am getting ready to fly my "8" and center line seating is ideal for both passengers. She can see equally well out both sides and has more room. I also have built a Christen Eagle and my wife liked the back seat in that too. Besides the pilot is suppose to be sitting in the center of the airplane. Ever seen a bird with his head off center? You will find that most wives aren't interested in just drilling around for the joy of flying but are most interested in the destination. Consequently you will be flying solo a lot and center line seating is where it's at for that kind of flying. Also if the "8" doesn't have enough baggage space you're taking to much junk along. Rich Crosley ________________________________________________________________________________
From: DOUGPFLYRV(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 06, 2004
Subject: Re: paint the canopy slider?
In a message dated 4/5/2004 11:23:32 PM Central Standard Time, K9HXT(at)msn.com writes: Most leave it bare. I did. Larry, RV-6A flying and mentoring a guy on a RV-8, about done. We polished ours. Doug Preston RV8 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 01, 2004
From: Jim Bean <jim-bean(at)att.net>
Subject: Front Baggage Door
Fellow builders, How badly does the baggage door leak in rain? Is there anyone who has found a way to seal it up. I am wondering if the form-in-place type of gasket material could be used along the sides and bottom. The hinge however is a total mystery. Jim Bean RV-8 about to attach wings. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 02, 2004
From: Richard Lundin <rlundin46(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Front Baggage Door
Hi Jim, You should contact Chris Sands. He did a really nice job on his baggage door. His email is csands9551(at)aol.com If you need help with installing the wings let me know. Rick RV-8 Tail done wing kit ships in May --- Jim Bean wrote: > > > Fellow builders, > How badly does the baggage door leak in rain? Is > there anyone who has > found a way to seal it up. I am wondering if the > form-in-place type of > gasket material could be used along the sides and > bottom. The hinge > however is a total mystery. > Jim Bean > RV-8 > about to attach wings. > > > > Contributions > any other > Forums. > > http://www.matronics.com/chat > > http://www.matronics.com/subscription > http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV8-List.htm > http://www.matronics.com/archives > http://www.matronics.com/photoshare > http://www.matronics.com/emaillists > > > > > __________________________________ http://hotjobs.sweepstakes.yahoo.com/careermakeover ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Sally and George" <aeronut58(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: RV8-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 05/01/04
Date: May 02, 2004
Jim: The door on N888GK didn't leak at all, even though it looked like it should along the hinge line. George Kilishek >From: RV8-List Digest Server <rv8-list-digest(at)matronics.com> >Reply-To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com >To: RV8-List Digest List >Subject: RV8-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 05/01/04 >Date: Sat, 1 May 2004 23:57:22 -0700 > >* > > ================================================== > Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive > ================================================== > >Today's complete RV8-List Digest can be also be found in either >of the two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest >formatted in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked >Indexes and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII >version of the RV8-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic >text editor such as Notepad or with a web browser. > >HTML Version: > > >http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv8-list/Digest.RV8-List.2004-05-01.html > >Text Version: > > >http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv8-list/Digest.RV8-List.2004-05-01.txt > > > ================================================ > EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive > ================================================ > > > RV8-List Digest Archive > --- > Total Messages Posted Sat 05/01/04: 1 > > >Today's Message Index: >---------------------- > > 1. 08:02 PM - Front Baggage Door (Jim Bean) > > >________________________________ Message 1 >_____________________________________ > > >From: Jim Bean <jim-bean(at)att.net> >Subject: RV8-List: Front Baggage Door > > >Fellow builders, >How badly does the baggage door leak in rain? Is there anyone who has >found a way to seal it up. I am wondering if the form-in-place type of >gasket material could be used along the sides and bottom. The hinge >however is a total mystery. >Jim Bean >RV-8 >about to attach wings. > > Check out the coupons and bargains on MSN Offers! http://youroffers.msn.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Robert E. Lynch" <rv6lynch(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Tailwheel Horn
Date: May 04, 2004
Stien. The horn probabaly is not worn. My problem was the little plunger that clicks in the cut out was stuck. Take apart, clean, take a file and deburr the plunger tha rides on the spring, make sure it is free and loose. Walla. problem solved. Bob Lynch RV6 450 hrs. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: <rdaulton3(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Instrument panel layout programs
Date: May 08, 2004
Fellow RV'rs...do any of you know of a program that can be used to lay out instrument panels. I am told that such a program exists. It will allow one to move instruments, switches, ect around in a panel of the size one desires. Please help if you can....Thanks...Rod Daulton rdaulton3(at)comcast.net ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mauri Morin" <maurv8(at)bigsky.net>
Subject: Re: Instrument panel layout programs
Date: May 08, 2004
Rod, Try http://www.epanelbuilder.com/ Mauri Morin ----- Original Message ----- From: <rdaulton3(at)comcast.net> Subject: RV8-List: Instrument panel layout programs > > Fellow RV'rs...do any of you know of a program that can be used to lay out instrument panels. I am told that such a program exists. It will allow one to move instruments, switches, ect around in a panel of the size one desires. > > Please help if you can....Thanks...Rod Daulton > rdaulton3(at)comcast.net > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Fabian Lefler" <fablef(at)bellsouth.net>
, ,
Subject: Monroy ADT-300 Traffic Detector
Date: May 09, 2004
For the last couple of weeks, I have had a number of calls from builders inquiring about the arrival of additional ADT-300 units. We sold out our first batch fairly quickly, and have received a second batch. However, it appears that the manufacturer can't seem to catch with the demand fast enough, so we don't know how long they will be around for those that interested. If you are interested in finding out about the product, you can see can click here http://www.affordablepanels.com/monroy300.htm Regards, Fabian Lefler www.affordablepanels.com <http://www.affordablepanels.com/> ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 13, 2004
From: RV8ter(at)aol.com
Subject: deburring the canopy edges
How often should one debur and smooth the canopy edges and tools/techniques are folks using? Touch up edges after each and every cut before each trial fit or only after the last or nearly last cut/fit? Is the issue that it could crack just handling it or sitting on its own weight if laid on the unfinished edges? thx, lucky ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Doug Ripley" <dougr(at)hurricanefilter.com>
Subject: Re: deburring the canopy edges
Date: May 13, 2004
With a name like lucky, don't worry about it! Seriously, you should debur after every cut. I used my belt sander, then 400 grit. Take out the sharp corners, like where you stop cutting and start again....usually a sharp one there. I cracked 2 while building my Midget Mustang, so I'm a pro at screwing them up. What I learned is that it will crack when you handle it....picking it up and putting it on the fuselage for trial fit after the cut. Both of mine cracked where my hand was when I grabbed it. I was lazy and didn't de-burr the edges before handling it for trial fit. Deburr the edges handle with care get it warm!!! On my -8, I used a torpedo heater to get the canopy temp up around 100 degrees. This may be overkill, but I knew what it was like to break one, and I NEVER want to do that again!!!!! BTW......I used a uni-bit to open the holes from #40 to the correct over-size. Worked great. DO NOT USE A STANDARD DRILL BIT BEYOND THE #40!!! You have a 99.9% chance of cracking if you do. If you do all this, and you still crack it, change your name. ----- Original Message ----- From: <RV8ter(at)aol.com> Subject: RV8-List: deburring the canopy edges > > How often should one debur and smooth the canopy edges and tools/techniques are folks using? > > Touch up edges after each and every cut before each trial fit or only after the last or nearly last cut/fit? > > Is the issue that it could crack just handling it or sitting on its own weight if laid on the unfinished edges? > > thx, > lucky > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "lucky macy" <luckymacy(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: deburring the canopy edges
Date: May 13, 2004
Thanks. I'll fire up the belt sander from now on. I'm using a 1/4 inch canopy from Todd's and have trial fit it a couple of times after cuts so far without doing any edge dressing nor have I been using a space heater religously so I guess I'm either lucky or good :-) lucky ----Original Message Follows---- From: "Doug Ripley" <dougr(at)hurricanefilter.com> Subject: Re: RV8-List: deburring the canopy edges Date: Thu, 13 May 2004 08:18:33 -0400 With a name like lucky, don't worry about it! Seriously, you should debur after every cut. I used my belt sander, then 400 grit. Take out the sharp corners, like where you stop cutting and start again....usually a sharp one there. I cracked 2 while building my Midget Mustang, so I'm a pro at screwing them up. What I learned is that it will crack when you handle it....picking it up and putting it on the fuselage for trial fit after the cut. Both of mine cracked where my hand was when I grabbed it. I was lazy and didn't de-burr the edges before handling it for trial fit. Deburr the edges handle with care get it warm!!! On my -8, I used a torpedo heater to get the canopy temp up around 100 degrees. This may be overkill, but I knew what it was like to break one, and I NEVER want to do that again!!!!! BTW......I used a uni-bit to open the holes from #40 to the correct over-size. Worked great. DO NOT USE A STANDARD DRILL BIT BEYOND THE #40!!! You have a 99.9% chance of cracking if you do. If you do all this, and you still crack it, change your name. ----- Original Message ----- From: <RV8ter(at)aol.com> Subject: RV8-List: deburring the canopy edges > > How often should one debur and smooth the canopy edges and tools/techniques are folks using? > > Touch up edges after each and every cut before each trial fit or only after the last or nearly last cut/fit? > > Is the issue that it could crack just handling it or sitting on its own weight if laid on the unfinished edges? > > thx, > lucky > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Doug Ripley" <dougr(at)hurricanefilter.com>
Subject: Re: deburring the canopy edges
Date: May 13, 2004
Little of both.....no matter how good you are, you still need a little luck to get through the canopy with no troubles! ----- Original Message ----- From: "lucky macy" <luckymacy(at)hotmail.com> Subject: Re: RV8-List: deburring the canopy edges > > Thanks. I'll fire up the belt sander from now on. > > I'm using a 1/4 inch canopy from Todd's and have trial fit it a couple of > times after cuts so far without doing any edge dressing nor have I been > using a space heater religously so I guess I'm either lucky or good :-) > > > lucky > > ----Original Message Follows---- > From: "Doug Ripley" <dougr(at)hurricanefilter.com> > To: > Subject: Re: RV8-List: deburring the canopy edges > Date: Thu, 13 May 2004 08:18:33 -0400 > > > With a name like lucky, don't worry about it! > Seriously, you should debur after every cut. I used my belt sander, then > 400 grit. Take out the sharp corners, like where you stop cutting and start > again....usually a sharp one there. I cracked 2 while building my Midget > Mustang, so I'm a pro at screwing them up. What I learned is that it will > crack when you handle it....picking it up and putting it on the fuselage for > trial fit after the cut. Both of mine cracked where my hand was when I > grabbed it. I was lazy and didn't de-burr the edges before handling it for > trial fit. > > Deburr the edges > handle with care > get it warm!!! On my -8, I used a torpedo heater to get the canopy temp up > around 100 degrees. This may be overkill, but I knew what it was like to > break one, and I NEVER want to do that again!!!!! > > BTW......I used a uni-bit to open the holes from #40 to the correct > over-size. Worked great. DO NOT USE A STANDARD DRILL BIT BEYOND THE #40!!! > You have a 99.9% chance of cracking if you do. > > If you do all this, and you still crack it, change your name. > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: <RV8ter(at)aol.com> > To: ; > Subject: RV8-List: deburring the canopy edges > > > > > > How often should one debur and smooth the canopy edges and > tools/techniques are folks using? > > > > Touch up edges after each and every cut before each trial fit or only > after the last or nearly last cut/fit? > > > > Is the issue that it could crack just handling it or sitting on its own > weight if laid on the unfinished edges? > > > > thx, > > lucky > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jim Sears <sears(at)searnet.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: deburring the canopy edges
Date: May 13, 2004
> How often should one debur and smooth the canopy edges and tools/techniques > are folks using? I sand the edges after each cut. I don't polish them; but, I do get rid of the ragged edges. I also work in temps above 80F. I've only dealt with the -6 and -9 canopies; so, it may be overkill for the -8 canopies. Mine haven't cracked during construction, though. I must admit that my -6A canopy has cracked at both rear corners due to my carelessness. Anyway, I've seen old Pat Patterson wrestle with canopies and never sand between fittings. I don't have the good luck he has, though. I did learn one little trick on the last one I did. I used a hand held belt sander to go over the edges. I ran the belt parallel with the edge and got rid of rough edges very fast. I could also use it to help shape the canopy. I'm buying one for my own canopy, this time. Jim Sears in KY RV-6A N198JS (Scooter) RV-7A #70317 (Painting new shop. Waiting for wings) EAA Tech Counselor ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "lucky macy" <luckymacy(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: deburring the canopy edges
Date: May 13, 2004
Thanks to all who've replied, I have a hand held belt sander and will use it w/ 80 grit paper before I do anything else. ----Original Message Follows---- From: Jim Sears <sears(at)searnet.com> Subject: RV8-List: Re: RV-List: deburring the canopy edges Date: Thu, 13 May 2004 17:16:35 -0400 > How often should one debur and smooth the canopy edges and tools/techniques > are folks using? I sand the edges after each cut. I don't polish them; but, I do get rid of the ragged edges. I also work in temps above 80F. I've only dealt with the -6 and -9 canopies; so, it may be overkill for the -8 canopies. Mine haven't cracked during construction, though. I must admit that my -6A canopy has cracked at both rear corners due to my carelessness. Anyway, I've seen old Pat Patterson wrestle with canopies and never sand between fittings. I don't have the good luck he has, though. I did learn one little trick on the last one I did. I used a hand held belt sander to go over the edges. I ran the belt parallel with the edge and got rid of rough edges very fast. I could also use it to help shape the canopy. I'm buying one for my own canopy, this time. Jim Sears in KY RV-6A N198JS (Scooter) RV-7A #70317 (Painting new shop. Waiting for wings) EAA Tech Counselor Watch LIVE baseball games on your computer with MLB.TV, included with MSN Premium! http://join.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200439ave/direct/01/ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RV8ter(at)aol.com
Date: May 15, 2004
Subject: canopy frame rear bow/Canopy fit
The plans show the canopy frame rear bow 3/4 to 5/8's inch above the slider. Once I put the canopy on it drops down to about 1/16 inch above the slider. If I double the height before the attaching the canopy it looks like it's going to make the rear canopy frame fit even worse to the canopy. But that's what I should do, more or less, right? Speaking of poor fits. I've stopped taking anything off the rear after just one initial cut and am just taking off the front for now. But I can see one really bad area that doesn't appear to be getting any better. Where the canopy frame starts to taper inwards near the rear 25% section of the canopy frame, the canopy doesn't narrow nearly as sharply. I'd say there's up to a one inch space on each side between the canopy and rail back there before the very rear of the canopy eventually comes to rest on top of the canopy frame rear bow. The canopy sides further forward where the front and rear cockpits are matchup pretty good, for what that's worth. Is this common? I can't see any improvement back there based upon what I've been trimming off the front so far. I don't have much to trim off in the back. The canopy leading edge is sitting 3.25 inches aft of the instrument panel face as the plans call for. But experimenting with sliding the canopy slight fore and aft doesn't appear to actually help any. The gaps are just so big. thx, lucky ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RV8ter(at)aol.com
Date: May 15, 2004
Subject: RV8 canopy frame rear bow/Canopy fit
In a message dated 5/15/2004 9:08:57 AM Eastern Standard Time, RV8ter writes: The plans show the canopy frame rear bow 3/4 to 5/8's inch above the slider. Once I put the canopy on it drops down to about 1/16 inch above the slider. If I double the height before the attaching the canopy it looks like it's going to make the rear canopy frame fit even worse to the canopy. But that's what I should do, more or less, right? Speaking of poor fits. I've stopped taking anything off the rear after just one initial cut and am just taking off the front for now. But I can see one really bad area that doesn't appear to be getting any better. Where the canopy frame starts to taper inwards near the rear 25% section of the canopy frame, the canopy doesn't narrow nearly as sharply. I'd say there's up to a one inch space on each side between the canopy and rail back there before the very rear of the canopy eventually comes to rest on top of the canopy frame rear bow. The canopy sides further forward where the front and rear cockpits are matchup pretty good, for what that's worth. Is this common? I can't see any improvement back there based upon what I've been trimming off the front so far. I don't have much to trim off in the back. The canopy leading edge is sitting 3.25 inches aft of the instrument panel face as the plans call for. But experimenting with sliding the canopy slight fore and aft doesn't appear to actually help any. The gaps are just so big. thx, lucky From: RV8ter(at)aol.com Date: Sat, 15 May 2004 09:08:57 EDT Subject: canopy frame rear bow/Canopy fit -------------------------------1084626537 The plans show the canopy frame rear bow 3/4 to 5/8's inch above the slider. Once I put the canopy on it drops down to about 1/16 inch above the slider. If I double the height before the attaching the canopy it looks like it's going to make the rear canopy frame fit even worse to the canopy. But that's what I should do, more or less, right? Speaking of poor fits. I've stopped taking anything off the rear after just one initial cut and am just taking off the front for now. But I can see one really bad area that doesn't appear to be getting any better. Where the canopy frame starts to taper inwards near the rear 25% section of the canopy frame, the canopy doesn't narrow nearly as sharply. I'd say there's up to a one inch space on each side between the canopy and rail back there before the very rear of the canopy eventually comes to rest on top of the canopy frame rear bow. The canopy sides further forward where the front and rear cockpits are matchup pretty good, for what that's worth. Is this common? I can't see any improvement back there based upon what I've been trimming off the front so far. I don't have much to trim off in the back. The canopy leading edge is sitting 3.25 inches aft of the instrument panel face as the plans call for. But experimenting with sliding the canopy slight fore and aft doesn't appear to actually help any. The gaps are just so big. thx, lucky -------------------------------1084626537 The plans show thecanopy frame rearbow 3/4 to 5/8's inch above the slider. Once I put the canopy on it drops down to about 1/16 inch above the slider. If I double the height before the attaching the canopy it looks like it's going to make the rear canopy frame fit even worse to the canopy. But that's what I should do, more or less, right? Speaking of poor fits. I've stopped taking anything off the rear=20after just one initial cut and am just taking off the front for now. But I can see one really bad area that doesn't appear to be getting any better. Where the canopy frame starts to taper inwards near the rear 25% section of the canopy frame, the canopy doesn't narrow nearly as sharply. I'd say there's up to a one inch space on each side betweenthe canopy and rail back there before the very rear of the canopy eventually comes to rest on top of the canopy frame rear bow.The canopy sides further forward where the front and rear cockpits are matchup pretty good, for what that's=20worth. Is this common? I can't see any improvement back there based upon what I've been trimming off the front so far. I don't have much to trim off in the back. The canopy leading edgeis sitting 3.25 inches aft of the instrument panel face as the plans call for. But experimenting with sliding the canopy slight fore and aft doesn't appear to actually help any. The gaps are just so big. thx, lucky -------------------------------1084626537-- ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "GEORGE INMAN" <ghinman(at)allstream.net>
Subject: RV-8 flap motor rubs
Date: May 15, 2004
I am installing my flap motor, on my RV-8 quick build, and have a problem with the flap motor rubbing on the F-876PP-L aft cabin cover. I may need another 1/4" clearance. I have not yet installed the wings and flaps. Have others had this problem? And if so how did they fix it? GEORGE H. INMAN ghinman(at)allstream.net ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: RV-8 flap motor rubs
From: "Ken Dominy" <abqmooney(at)excite.com>
Date: May 15, 2004
I had the same problem. I placed the nutplates as directed in the flooring, and found when instaling the rear side panel, the flap motor rubbed against the panel. A call to Van's did not yield a solution, as the flap motor is made one way, and you cannot obtain a flap motor with the motor offset on the opposite side. I solved my problem by filing the sides of the trunion (pivot point) below the motor from round to flat, and installing spacer washers to move the trunion outboard. It now clears the panel. you don't really lose much strength by filing the round trunion to flat on the sides.--- On Sat 05/15, GEORGE INMAN ghinman(at)allstream.net wrote:From: GEORGE INMAN [mailto: ghinman(at)allstream.net]To: rv8-list(at)matronics.comDate: Sat, 15 May 2004 17:06:10 -0500Subject: RV8-List: RV-8 flap motor rubs-- RV8-List message posted by: "GEORGE INMAN" I am installing my flap motor,on my RV-8 quick build,and have a problem with the flap motorrubbing on the F-876PP-L aft Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com The most personalized portal on the Web! ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jim Daniels <jwdanie(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: RV-8 flap motor rubs
Date: May 15, 2004
> Have others had this problem? Yep, pretty common actually. Another one of those things that should have been addressed long ago. > And if so how did they fix it? I chopped the mounting tab off the end of the flap weldment, fabricated a new one from 4130 steel, and had it welded on about 1/4" outboard. I had gobs of room outboard, but could find no other way to keep from hitting the inboard cover plate since the interference was also at the very top of the travel and moving the cover bottom mounting holes in did no good. Jim Daniels ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Paul" <paul(at)wilsonnet.flyer.co.uk>
Subject: Proseal shrinkage ?
Date: May 17, 2004
After what seems many long hours of meticulously preparing the fuel tank parts for final assembly, I finally got round to sealing and riveting the tank stiffeners into both tanks late last week. Everything seemed to go to plan, however, now after three days, I have returned to start preparing for riveting and sealing the ribs in, I have noticed that on quite a lot of the blobs of sealer which I put on each rivet on the stiffeners, there appears to be a gap or hole appeared in the sealer, where I can see through to either the rivet or side of the dimple , depending on where they have appeared, almost as if the sealer has shrunk away as it has started to cure, or if there were a small amout of air in the sealer which has now found it's way to the surface. I'm only talking of a pin head size hole here, but wondered if it was anything to worry about, and is it ok to go over each rivet again with fresh sealer when I do the ribs ? There was no contamination on the stiffeners or rivets, as all parts were cleaned and washed in acetone and dried prior to bonding.The sealer is fresh from Vans last week. All comments welcome. Paul ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: RV-8 flap motor rubs
From: "Greg V. Miller" <gvm(at)cableone.net>
Date: May 18, 2004
Mine too. I put clear plastic packing tape on both surfaces and just let them rub. 350 hours, no worries... On Sat, 2004-05-15 at 16:06, GEORGE INMAN wrote: > > I am installing my flap motor, > on my RV-8 quick build, > and have a problem with the flap motor > rubbing on the F-876PP-L aft cabin cover. > I may need another 1/4" clearance. > I have not yet installed the wings > and flaps. > Have others had this problem? > And if so how did they fix it? > > GEORGE H. INMAN > ghinman(at)allstream.net > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Maureen & Bob Christensen" <mchriste(at)danvilletelco.net>
Subject: Re: RV-8 flap motor rubs
Date: May 18, 2004
They talk about this on the tapes . . . and suggest putting the nutplates on the floor out (in) a little to accommodate for this?! I'm about to this point but haven't wrestled with it yet. Regards, Bob Christensen ----- Original Message ----- From: "GEORGE INMAN" <ghinman(at)allstream.net> Subject: RV8-List: RV-8 flap motor rubs > > I am installing my flap motor, > on my RV-8 quick build, > and have a problem with the flap motor > rubbing on the F-876PP-L aft cabin cover. > I may need another 1/4" clearance. > I have not yet installed the wings > and flaps. > Have others had this problem? > And if so how did they fix it? > > GEORGE H. INMAN > ghinman(at)allstream.net > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Sally and George" <aeronut58(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Elevator Electric Trim Wiring Routing
Date: May 23, 2004
Where should the wiring from the MAC servo be routed from the left elevator? The drawings leave this unspecified. I'm inclined to run them out through the inboard elevator rib to the control horn, thence (with a lot of slack) to the fuselage. What have others done? George Kilishek Watch LIVE baseball games on your computer with MLB.TV, included with MSN Premium! http://join.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200439ave/direct/01/ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Doug Ripley" <dougr(at)hurricanefilter.com>
Subject: Re: Elevator Electric Trim Wiring Routing
Date: May 24, 2004
I haven't ran mine yet, but plan to put them through grommets in the holes in the elevator spar and aft stab spar that were intended for the mechanical trim. Doug Ripley N821DT painting....may fly in June!! ----- Original Message ----- From: "Sally and George" <aeronut58(at)hotmail.com> Subject: RV8-List: Elevator Electric Trim Wiring Routing > > Where should the wiring from the MAC servo be routed from the left elevator? > The drawings leave this unspecified. > > I'm inclined to run them out through the inboard elevator rib to the control > horn, thence (with a lot of slack) to the fuselage. > > What have others done? > > George Kilishek > > Watch LIVE baseball games on your computer with MLB.TV, included with MSN > Premium! http://join.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200439ave/direct/01/ > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Al Grajek" <algrajek(at)msn.com>
Subject: Elevator Electric Trim Wiring Routing
Date: May 24, 2004
I just ran mine through the holes that are ther for the manual trim cable, then alont the longeron all the way to the panel. Works great wit 10 hours on the airplane. Do not label trim indicator until you are sure which way thw wires are hooked up . Al Grajek RV8A Finally flying! >From: "Sally and George" <aeronut58(at)hotmail.com> >Reply-To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com >To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: RV8-List: Elevator Electric Trim Wiring Routing >Date: Sun, 23 May 2004 18:01:01 -0500 > > >Where should the wiring from the MAC servo be routed from the left >elevator? > The drawings leave this unspecified. > >I'm inclined to run them out through the inboard elevator rib to the >control >horn, thence (with a lot of slack) to the fuselage. > >What have others done? > >George Kilishek > >Watch LIVE baseball games on your computer with MLB.TV, included with MSN >Premium! http://join.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200439ave/direct/01/ > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Sally and George" <aeronut58(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: RV8-List Digest: 2 Msgs - 05/24/04
Date: May 25, 2004
Thanks guys. Problem solved. George > >I haven't ran mine yet, but plan to put them through grommets in the holes >in the elevator spar and aft stab spar that were intended for the >mechanical >trim. >Doug Ripley >N821DT >painting....may fly in June!! > > >I just ran mine through the holes that are ther for the manual trim cable, >then alont the longeron all the way to the panel. Works great wit 10 hours >on the airplane. Do not label trim indicator until you are sure which way >thw wires are hooked up . >Al Grajek >RV8A >Finally flying! > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com>
Subject: Matronics & Yahoo RV-8 lists
Date: Jun 02, 2004
As those of you who subscribe to the Yahoo RV-8 list know, they have been experiencing some problems. This morning I received an invitation to re-subscribe to a new Yahoo RV-8 list from Mike Stewart and Doug Reeves. I sent Mike the following: As you may or may not know, the Yahoo RV-8 list was started maybe five or six years ago by Moe Calitrono when Matt's Matronics RV list was not differentiated by type aircraft. Moe thought we needed a list that was RV-8 specific. Matt liked the idea, so he started an RV-8 list on Matronics. Moe's list continued until he decided to quit building his RV-8 and he passed it on to someone else to manage. It became more popular than the Matronics list, but many of us felt we had to subscribe to both to keep up with all the good information. Some people thankfully post messages to both RV-8 lists and to the RV list, so sometimes I get three copies of the same message. I have not seen any compelling reason to have two RV-8 lists and would rather there just be one, and Matt does a fine job of administering his lists. If the Yahoo list continues, I would like to subscribe, but frankly I would rather see the members encouraged to join Matt's RV-8 list instead. Terry ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 02, 2004
From: Liz Taylor <n7011n(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: For Sale: Avery RV Tools with Pneumatic Squeezer
After deciding not to continue building my RV7 past the empenage stage, I'm parting with my set of Avery Tools. Attached is a .pdf Acrobat file containing shots of my complete RV7 tool set I'm selling along with images of the original invoice from Avery Tools. Several items were added after the original purchase and are not reflected in the original invoice. These items are listed below: -Precision Instruments 1/4" Drive Dial-Type Torque Wrench with Memory, 0-75 lb.in (I discovered that the cheap torque wrench I had purchased was not accurate enough for aircraft construction. After twisting the head off a bolt that was spec'd for only 24 inch/lbs, I bought the best I could find. This lists for $199 online. -Adjustable Rivet Cutter -Quick change pins for the pneumatic squeezer (a great addition since you'll frequently change the yokes) -2nd cleco wrench -Boelube-tube These items roughly add up to an additional $250 over the invoice price shown below of $2,422. 2 items that show up on the original invoice are not included. These are a 24" metal ruler and the S/B cutting and polishing wheel. I believe I have used up 1 or 2 of the cobalt bits. These are about a buck apiece depending on the bit. All of the tools are in like new shape as I only used them on the tail kit for an RV7 with the drill bits and countersink bits like new. Avery tools are great quality. The pneumatic squeezer and 3 yokes with adjustable set holder are not included in the basic Avery Tools RV7 kit (good to know if you are trying to compare my price with Avery's current pricing). Also upgraded from the basic kit is the digital angle finder, heavy duty ball bearing microstop countersink cutter and metal micrometer. There may be others that I'm forgetting. I just checked their website and it looks like their prices have gone up since I purchased these. To replace everything today would likely top $3,000 for all the items I've listed here. I'd be willing to part with everything for $2,100 (the items I'm selling cost me $2,600 roughly). The buyer will need to pay for shipping of their choice. I will also require payment via cashier's check made out to my name. If I can answer any questions, please call me at 312.943.5529 ext:14 during the day or e-mail me at richard(at)taylorbruce.com. __________________________________ http://messenger.yahoo.com/ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jackie Gilbert" <jackie293(at)msn.com>
Subject: rv8 seats
Date: Jun 02, 2004
some one wants to sell seat for a rv8 please send photo, tell me what kind of foam, where the seats were made. and the price. jackie293 @msn.com jackie gilbert monroe, la. MSN 9 Dial-up Internet Access fights spam and pop-ups now 3 months FREE! http://join.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200361ave/direct/01/ ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Speaking of Beautiful fixed pitched Props...
Date: Jun 07, 2004
From: "Rabaut, Chuck" <Chuck.Rabaut(at)fresnosheriff.org>
"rv4-list(at)matronics. com $E-mail$" , "rv6-list(at)matronics. com $E-mail$" , "rv7-list(at)matronics. com $E-mail$" , "rv8-list(at)matronics. com $E-mail$" , "rv-list(at)matronics. com $E-mail$" 2.6 SUSPICIOUS_RECIPS Similar addresses in recipient list Hi guys & Gals, I just received my new Prop from "CloudCars". It looks BEAUTIFUL. This prop reminds me of the high quality & low price we use to get from Pacesetter Props. Pacesetter is no longer in business but man did I love my old Pacesetter prop. The guy who made my new prop is Jay Anderson. He is very knowledgeable and willing to work with you to get a custom Prop that you will love. His prices are extremely fair (I got mine for about $500.oo including s your price may vary depending on what you want) and the delivery time was only about 6 weeks. For a custom made, quality Prop you can't beat that price with a stick. You can contact Jay at cloudcars99(at)yahoo.com or (325) 356-2810. His motto/slogan is "Quality Wood Propellers at Reasonable Prices". I'm a satisfied customer. **note: I get no discount, nor do I have any financial interest in this business.** We experimental builders & flyers should support small businesses that provide quality products & service at reasonable prices. That's why I'm sharing this hot tip with all the RV folks. If you call him, tell 'em Chuck says "Hi". Chuck ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: RE: CloudCars prop
Date: Jun 10, 2004
From: "Rabaut, Chuck" <Chuck.Rabaut(at)fresnosheriff.org>
"rv6-list(at)matronics. com $E-mail$" , "rv7-list(at)matronics. com $E-mail$" , "rv8-list(at)matronics. com $E-mail$" , "rv-list(at)matronics. com $E-mail$" 2.6 SUSPICIOUS_RECIPS Similar addresses in recipient list Chris, I agree whole heartedly about props being a critical component on a aircraft. I've been flyin' since 1976 (all sorts of aircraft) and I've been fortunate enough not to have ever had a prop related in-flight problem (though I have experienced "the joy" of several engine out/dead stick landings, but like any thrilling story, those take awhile to tell). What I have learned is that every business starts out as a small "garage business", as you referred to them. Even IBM started in a garage in Menlo Park, Ca. The small businesses are the real innovators, they are the ones who bring the best quality and ideas forward at a "competitive" price; because they have to just to survive. The BIG guys usually just kick back and rely on their name. And... you PAY alot of extra $$$ for their name too. I am not knocking the quality of Sensenich or other big names. But I know that there are high quality, reasonably priced competitors that I would rather support. Heck, if I want a Sensenich label on my prop, Sensenich sells their name stickers in various catalogues too. When I ordered my prop from Jay at CloudCars, I knew exactly what I wanted. However Jay also gave me valuable, knowledgeable advice. Now that I have my prop, Jay is insisting that I hook it up and try it/fly it to see if it performs as I expected it to. Then I send it back for final backing and edge protection, and if I need any pitch or other adjustments he'll do that too. Now I will give updates to the RV-list(s) as I go, but it sure is re-assuring that CloudCars is that interested in making certain I am (as Jay has said) "Completely Satisfied" with my new prop. PaceSetter was not a large company, and unfortunately they are no longer in the business (though I know the guy still makes props on the side). But PaceSetter's quality, reliability and name carried a lot of respect from everyone that I've ever spoken with who has flown on their props. It is very unfortunate that it took several years for their name and word of their quality to spread; I think that was a major part of their downfall. I believe CloudCars is on par with the quality and hence the reliability, of PaceSetter and the BIG named manufactures in the production of their props. I hazard to guess that if/when CloudCars gets well known, their prices will certainly rise as the demand rises for their skilled craftsmanship. But the choice is always up to the consumer. By the way, ask Jay if he builds three (3) bladed props, I just got an inquiry about that. Take care, and take to the Air, Chuck p.s. Chris I hope you don't mind, I'm gonna CC a copy to the RV-list(s) because I think this is a valid discussion topic for experimental builders. -----Original Message----- From: Chris Boultinghouse [mailto:sonexbuilder(at)yahoo.com] Subject: CloudCars prop Hi Chuck, I saw your post on the RV list about the prop you got from Jay at CloudCars. I dropped him a note about a prop for my Jabiru 3300/Sonex combo, and received a prompt reply (and a picture). His prices are reasonable too (about $250 less than a comparable Sensenich wood prop). My problem is that my wife is uncomfortable with the idea of me buying something as critical as a prop from a "garage business". I was hoping you'd be able to offer some insight into the craftmanship and perceived design of the prop. Have you flown yours yet? I'm not averted to spending the money for a Sensenich (or Prince) but I do like to save a buck and help the little guy as long as I'm not risking my butt to do so! Thanks for your thoughts. ===== Best Regards, Chris Boultinghouse Austin, TX Sonex N260SX (reserved) http://sonex260.wheelsup.org __________________________________ http://messenger.yahoo.com/ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Cory Emberson" <bootless(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Ken Balch's N118KB in July Kitplanes Magazine
Date: Jun 10, 2004
Hello! Just a quick note to let you know that Ken Balch's stunning flag-design RV-8 (which is now for sale) is featured in the July issue of Kitplanes on page 39 (Exteriors and Interiors)... Ken, thank you for sharing the story of your plane with me ... I'm sorry I wasn't able to meet you in person at LAL this year. best, Cory ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "greg" <greg(at)itmack.com>
Subject: elevator leading edge
Date: Jun 13, 2004
I'm just about to roll the leading edge of my elevators and upon checking the plans the way I look at it. The top half of the elevator should be slightly longer and be on the outside when riveted, so that the rivet is just a bit lower than half way around the leading edge. But on both of my elevators the longer edge is on the lower half. Have I got a problem or am I just looking at the plans wrong? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jack Blomgren" <jackanet(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: EIS plus what engine instrumentation?
Date: Jun 13, 2004
-8, 8A Drivers, I'm looking for good engine instrument solutions to accompany a Grand Rapids EIS for the right third of my -8 panel. If you have an EIS plus instrument combination you like and would recommend, I welcome your input. Thanks. Jack Blomgren -8 80% ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "greg" <greg(at)itmack.com>
Subject: screwing into platenuts
Date: Jun 14, 2004
I'm trying to mount the electric trim and the screws won't go into the platenuts and I'm really laying into them and starting to bur the heads. Also I'm worried about stretching the skin with all the force I'm putting onto them. Is there any trick I'm missing or do I need to run a tap through the platenuts? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Doug Ripley" <dougr(at)hurricanefilter.com>
Subject: Re: screwing into platenuts
Date: Jun 14, 2004
Mine was the same way. I ran a tap through them. Doug N821DT ----- Original Message ----- From: "greg" <greg(at)itmack.com> Subject: RV8-List: screwing into platenuts > > I'm trying to mount the electric trim and the screws won't go into the platenuts and I'm really laying into them and starting to bur the heads. Also I'm worried about stretching the skin with all the force I'm putting onto them. > > Is there any trick I'm missing or do I need to run a tap through the platenuts? > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Sally and George" <aeronut58(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: RV8-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 06/14/04
Date: Jun 15, 2004
Greg: I've had problems with being unable to start a thread into a plate nut and have used a tap to get it started. Be careful, though! Plate nut threads are rolled, not cut (for good reason) so be very gentle with the tap...do no more than you have to. George >----- Original Message ----- >From: "greg" <greg(at)itmack.com> >Subject: RV8-List: screwing into platenuts > > > > > > I'm trying to mount the electric trim and the screws won't go into the >platenuts and I'm really laying into them and starting to bur the heads. >Also I'm worried about stretching the skin with all the force I'm putting >onto them. > > > > Is there any trick I'm missing or do I need to run a tap through the >platenuts? > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Russell Johnson <entec1(at)pld.com>
Subject: You`ve got 1 VoiceMessage!
Date: - - - , 20-
Dear Customer! You`ve got 1 VoiceMessage from voicemessage.com website! You can listen your Virtual VoiceMessage at the following link: http://virt.voicemessage.com/index.listen.php2=35affv or by clicking the attached link. Send VoiceMessage! Try our new virtual VoiceMessage Empire! Best regards: SNAF.Team (R). ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Richard" <chiefs(at)peak.org>
Subject: Re: RV8-List Digest: 3 Msgs - 06/13/04
Date: Jun 15, 2004
Greg, Here is what I did... I used Boe Lube and ran a stainless steel screw through the platenut first. Dick White RV-8 N94DW Old Crow flying Newport, OR ----- Original Message ----- From: "RV8-List Digest Server" <rv8-list-digest(at)matronics.com> Subject: RV8-List Digest: 3 Msgs - 06/13/04 > * > > ================================================== > Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive > ================================================== > > Today's complete RV8-List Digest can be also be found in either > of the two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest > formatted in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked > Indexes and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII > version of the RV8-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic > text editor such as Notepad or with a web browser. > > HTML Version: > > http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv8-list/Digest.RV8-List.2004-06-13.html > > Text Version: > > http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv8-list/Digest.RV8-List.2004-06-13.txt > > > ================================================ > EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive > ================================================ > > > RV8-List Digest Archive > --- > Total Messages Posted Sun 06/13/04: 3 > > > Today's Message Index: > ---------------------- > > 1. 02:34 AM - elevator leading edge (greg) > 2. 02:44 PM - EIS plus what engine instrumentation? (Jack Blomgren) > 3. 04:30 PM - screwing into platenuts (greg) > > > ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ > > > From: "greg" <greg(at)itmack.com> > Subject: RV8-List: elevator leading edge > > > I'm just about to roll the leading edge of my elevators and upon checking the plans > the way I look at it. The top half of the elevator should be slightly longer > and be on the outside when riveted, so that the rivet is just a bit lower > than half way around the leading edge. > > But on both of my elevators the longer edge is on the lower half. Have I got a > problem or am I just looking at the plans wrong? > > > ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ > > > From: "Jack Blomgren" <jackanet(at)hotmail.com> > Subject: RV8-List: EIS plus what engine instrumentation? > > > -8, 8A Drivers, > I'm looking for good engine instrument solutions to accompany a Grand Rapids > EIS for the right third of my -8 panel. If you have an EIS plus instrument > combination you like and would recommend, I welcome your input. Thanks. > Jack Blomgren > -8 80% > > > > ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ > > > From: "greg" <greg(at)itmack.com> > Subject: RV8-List: screwing into platenuts > > > I'm trying to mount the electric trim and the screws won't go into the platenuts > and I'm really laying into them and starting to bur the heads. Also I'm worried > about stretching the skin with all the force I'm putting onto them. > > Is there any trick I'm missing or do I need to run a tap through the platenuts? > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Porter" <december29(at)peoplepc.com>
Subject: Re: RV8-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 06/14/04
Date: Jun 16, 2004
Hi, Just use some Boelube on the screws and they will go right in. It is really amazing stuff. John Porter ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Doug Ripley" <dougr(at)hurricanefilter.com>
Subject: Re: RV8-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 06/14/04
Date: Jun 17, 2004
Where do you get that stuff? ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Porter" <december29(at)peoplepc.com> Subject: RV8-List: Re: RV8-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 06/14/04 > > Hi, > Just use some Boelube on the screws and they will go right in. It is > really amazing stuff. > > John Porter > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: George Neal E Capt AU/PC <Neal.George(at)maxwell.af.mil>
Subject: Re: RV8-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 06/14/04
Date: Jun 17, 2004
Regarding tight nutplates and lubricating agents... The Yard (www.yardstore.com) has Boelube paste in 1-lb jars for about $14. they are also a great source for new, used and surplus tools. Cleveland Aircraft Tools sells Boelube in a solid stick (2 oz?) for about $3. I have used both, and MUCH prefer the paste. The stick is very crumbly and doesn't seem to do much good on drill bits and such, though I have used it successfully as a rub-it-on-and-forget-it release agent for epoxy or fiberglass work. I also use Loctite C5-A anti-seize with good results. (It was the first product I found in a stick, rather than a brush-top jar of goop.) An alternative is T-9, in aerosol or non-aerosol spray or by the gallon. T-9 works wonders to keep the rust off of my table saw, drill press, hand tools, etc. Spray it on and wipe off the excess, or leave it to dry on it's own for a thicker film of protection and lubrication. It will also help your drill bits and taps shed chips. Find T-9 locally in stores such as Woodcraft or hardware stores. > Where do you get that stuff? >> Just use some Boelube... Neal RV-7 N8ZG (reserved) Empennage ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Doug Ripley" <dougr(at)hurricanefilter.com>
Subject: Fuel Line Routing
Date: Jun 18, 2004
Hello all, I have a IO-360 M1B on my -8. There is a fuel line that runs from the injector servo to the spider on top of the engine. This line was originally routed on the left side of the engine, back through and above the intake air tubes, and up the rear to the spider. The hardware that Van's supplies for the throttle includes a reverser that attaches to the case, and it interferes with this fuel line. I want to run it on the right side, but it's too short to take all the way to the back of the engine, but it's perfect if I can run it up between two of the cylinders. Will I have a problem with vapor lock if it is between the cylinders? If this won't work, I'll have to get a longer hose. Thanks in advance. Doug Ripley N821DT flying in 3 weeks!(?) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Joel Harding <cajole76(at)ispwest.com>
Subject: Re: Fuel Line Routing
Date: Jun 18, 2004
Doug, My engine was set up with that routing when I purchased it, and I don't think it should be a problem, because of the relatively cooler temperatures at the base of the cylinders. I would certainly recommend the use of fire sleeve on the line though for the insulation value. On the other hand, I haven't flown yet so this is all conjecture on my part. Joel Harding On Jun 18, 2004, at 6:11 AM, Doug Ripley wrote: > > > Hello all, > > I have a IO-360 M1B on my -8. There is a fuel line that runs from the > injector servo to the spider on top of the engine. This line was > originally routed on the left side of the engine, back through and > above the intake air tubes, and up the rear to the spider. The > hardware that Van's supplies for the throttle includes a reverser that > attaches to the case, and it interferes with this fuel line. I want > to run it on the right side, but it's too short to take all the way to > the back of the engine, but it's perfect if I can run it up between > two of the cylinders. > > Will I have a problem with vapor lock if it is between the cylinders? > If this won't work, I'll have to get a longer hose. > > Thanks in advance. > Doug Ripley > N821DT > flying in 3 weeks!(?) > > > _- > ======================================================================= > _- > ======================================================================= > _- > ======================================================================= > _- > ======================================================================= > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Scott Tanner" <tannerav8(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Fuel Line Routing
Date: Jun 18, 2004
Doug, I have seen many certified installations with the servo-flow-divider fuel line routed through the engine baffling, between the cylinders. Pitts S1S, S1T, Piper Arrow, etc. This isn't a problem. Just make sure to use fire-sleeve. Scott Tanner ----- Original Message ----- From: "Doug Ripley" <dougr(at)hurricanefilter.com> Subject: RV8-List: Fuel Line Routing > > Hello all, > > I have a IO-360 M1B on my -8. There is a fuel line that runs from the injector servo to the spider on top of the engine. This line was originally routed on the left side of the engine, back through and above the intake air tubes, and up the rear to the spider. The hardware that Van's supplies for the throttle includes a reverser that attaches to the case, and it interferes with this fuel line. I want to run it on the right side, but it's too short to take all the way to the back of the engine, but it's perfect if I can run it up between two of the cylinders. > > Will I have a problem with vapor lock if it is between the cylinders? If this won't work, I'll have to get a longer hose. > > Thanks in advance. > Doug Ripley > N821DT > flying in 3 weeks!(?) > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "LARRY RUSH" <K9HXT(at)msn.com>
Subject: RV-8 Manual
Date: Jun 19, 2004
Does anyone have info on a link to a "RV-8 Operators Manual" I can use as a crib ??? Larry N939LT, (for Randy's, RV-8 in paint shop, N882PD) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 19, 2004
From: jonweisw <jonweisw(at)rcn.com>
Subject: Re: Fuel Line Routing
Doug- I also have an M1B for my -8 and have fretted with that line as well. For me, the line, as it comes from the factory, runs up the right side of the engine (looking from the cabin forward). Mine came with the hose in place with the support and intercylinder baffling already installed around the line. The problem I had was that the fitting that the factory provides is straight and the space between the top of the injector servo and the bottom of the crank case was too small to allow for a safe curve of the hosing. I had to be a little creative with a 90 deg AN fitting to get what I hope is a safe setup. I'm not sure why you want to route the line up the other side. There is so much crucial hardware there that I would worry about intereference. Im also not sure why this wasnt done for you already...I have a friend who is a couple months behind me on his -7A and got his M1B shortly after I got mine and his had this hose routing done already also (of course, the fitting on his was already a 90deg fitting...). I have been generally happy with Lycoming so far (I am aware of the general criticism of them on this list and elsewhere), but there does seem to be some variation in how the same engines are shipped. You might call them and have them send you the hardware to make this installation correct, so that you dont have to spend the $$. I am happy to snap some pictures of this for you if it would help. I, too, am about 3-4weeks away from the big day. Just got back from Portland for a few days with Mike Seager....well worth it. Jon Weiswasser N898JW 4 weeks? Doug Ripley wrote: > >Hello all, > >I have a IO-360 M1B on my -8. There is a fuel line that runs from the injector servo to the spider on top of the engine. This line was originally routed on the left side of the engine, back through and above the intake air tubes, and up the rear to the spider. The hardware that Van's supplies for the throttle includes a reverser that attaches to the case, and it interferes with this fuel line. I want to run it on the right side, but it's too short to take all the way to the back of the engine, but it's perfect if I can run it up between two of the cylinders. > >Will I have a problem with vapor lock if it is between the cylinders? If this won't work, I'll have to get a longer hose. > >Thanks in advance. >Doug Ripley >N821DT >flying in 3 weeks!(?) > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jacob & Grace" <grizzlybear(at)klondiker.com>
Subject: 6 " tires anyone?
Date: Jun 20, 2004
I am convinced I will have to put 6 " tires on my 8. Has anyone done this easily? Since it will fly mostly in the Yukon where there is only one paved runway it will be flying into poorly maintained gravel and dirt most of the time. Some of these Yukon gofers have a propensity for open clearings, runways are especially preferred, and 1/2 of them make craters that a small tire would fit into nicely. Short of fitting belt fed .22 cal wing guns and doing pre-touch down straffing runs this is the next best safety measure. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Doug Ripley" <dougr(at)hurricanefilter.com>
Subject: Re: Fuel Line Routing
Date: Jun 21, 2004
Thanks....got many replies back....Mattituck said it was fine to run it between the cylinders. My hose worked out to be long enough that running it that way did not require a 90 degree fitting on the spider. Thanks for your help....looks like we'll be flying around the same time! ----- Original Message ----- From: "jonweisw" <jonweisw(at)rcn.com> Subject: Re: RV8-List: Fuel Line Routing > > Doug- > I also have an M1B for my -8 and have fretted with that line as well. > For me, the line, as it comes from the factory, runs up the right side > of the engine (looking from the cabin forward). Mine came with the hose > in place with the support and intercylinder baffling already installed > around the line. The problem I had was that the fitting that the factory > provides is straight and the space between the top of the injector servo > and the bottom of the crank case was too small to allow for a safe curve > of the hosing. I had to be a little creative with a 90 deg AN fitting to > get what I hope is a safe setup. > > I'm not sure why you want to route the line up the other side. There is > so much crucial hardware there that I would worry about intereference. > Im also not sure why this wasnt done for you already...I have a friend > who is a couple months behind me on his -7A and got his M1B shortly > after I got mine and his had this hose routing done already also (of > course, the fitting on his was already a 90deg fitting...). I have been > generally happy with Lycoming so far (I am aware of the general > criticism of them on this list and elsewhere), but there does seem to be > some variation in how the same engines are shipped. You might call them > and have them send you the hardware to make this installation correct, > so that you dont have to spend the $$. I am happy to snap some pictures > of this for you if it would help. > > I, too, am about 3-4weeks away from the big day. Just got back from > Portland for a few days with Mike Seager....well worth it. > > Jon Weiswasser > N898JW > 4 weeks? > > Doug Ripley wrote: > > > > >Hello all, > > > >I have a IO-360 M1B on my -8. There is a fuel line that runs from the injector servo to the spider on top of the engine. This line was originally routed on the left side of the engine, back through and above the intake air tubes, and up the rear to the spider. The hardware that Van's supplies for the throttle includes a reverser that attaches to the case, and it interferes with this fuel line. I want to run it on the right side, but it's too short to take all the way to the back of the engine, but it's perfect if I can run it up between two of the cylinders. > > > >Will I have a problem with vapor lock if it is between the cylinders? If this won't work, I'll have to get a longer hose. > > > >Thanks in advance. > >Doug Ripley > >N821DT > >flying in 3 weeks!(?) > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jacob & Grace" <grizzlybear(at)klondiker.com>
Subject: Hello ...where did everybody go?
Date: Jun 22, 2004
2.5 SUB_HELLO Subject starts with "Hello" I am surprised no one can help me with the tire question.....hope I didn't offend. Come to think of it I have seen very little activity...maybe everybody is out flying! ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com>
Subject: Hello ...where did everybody go?
Date: Jun 23, 2004
Jacob, I recall some discussion on the general RV list about six inch tires. The builders were in England where much of the flying was from turf. Maybe you can mine the archives for more information. Steve RV-6A N227RV flying RV-8 N222SZ under construction -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jacob & Grace Subject: RV8-List: Hello ...where did everybody go? --> I am surprised no one can help me with the tire question.....hope I didn't offend. Come to think of it I have seen very little activity...maybe everybody is out flying! advertising on the Matronics Forums. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com>
Subject: 6" TIRES (Hello ...where did everybody go?)
Date: Jun 23, 2004
Hi Jacob, I didn't necessarily want to intervene since I don't actually have an RV8, but rather a couple of RV6's. Anyway, I do know of several RV8's that have sucessfully installed 6" tires on them. There are 3 different ways to approach it. #1) Buy the bigger 1 1/2" axle and bolt it on in place of the smaller one supplied by Van's. This is the easiest route, and I think if you contact Grove (landing gear folks), they can probably set you up. Then you can install standard 6.00x6's on it. #2) Built a bushing that buids up the axle from 1 1/4" to 1 1/2", then install the 6.00 wheels. If the wheels are not too wide, I've seen this done. #3) Find some funky sized tire that is a 5" tire, but much larger in size. Surprisingly, this has also been done, but don't know too much about it. With the flat landing gear, my choice would be to find a larger axle, bolt it on, buy larger wheels/brakes and go! Not the cheapest route, but most likely the easiest. And, keep in mind this is only a possibility on the RV8 with the flat gear, can't change the axle sizes on the spring rod gears of the other RV's. Cheers, Stein Bruch RV6's, Minneapolis. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jacob & Grace Subject: RV8-List: Hello ...where did everybody go? I am surprised no one can help me with the tire question.....hope I didn't offend. Come to think of it I have seen very little activity...maybe everybody is out flying! ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Sally and George" <aeronut58(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: RV8-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 06/22/04
Date: Jun 23, 2004
Just to reasure you that you've been heard. I read your question, but don't have any useful experience to share with you. N888GK has standard wheels and tires, which work fine on pavement and reasonably well maintained grass runways. My GUESS is that larger wheels and tires would work, since the RV8 has more than enough rudder and fin area, but it's only a guess. George >> > 1. 10:22 PM - Hello ...where did everybody go? (Jacob & Grace) > > >________________________________ Message 1 >_____________________________________ > > >From: "Jacob & Grace" <grizzlybear(at)klondiker.com> >Subject: RV8-List: Hello ...where did everybody go? > ---- ---------------------- >------------------------------------------- > 2.5 SUB_HELLO Subject starts with "Hello" > > >I am surprised no one can help me with the tire question.....hope I didn't >offend. >Come to think of it I have seen very little activity...maybe everybody is >out flying! > > MSN 9 Dial-up Internet Access fights spam and pop-ups now 3 months FREE! http://join.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200361ave/direct/01/ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jacob & Grace" <grizzlybear(at)klondiker.com>
Subject: Re: 6" TIRES (Hello ...where did everybody go?)
Date: Jun 23, 2004
Excelent thanks. I call Grove first. If that doesn't work I'll try bigger 5 ", and modify last. Appreciate it! ----- Original Message ----- From: "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com> Subject: RE: RV8-List: 6" TIRES (Hello ...where did everybody go?) > > Hi Jacob, > > I didn't necessarily want to intervene since I don't actually have an RV8, > but rather a couple of RV6's. Anyway, I do know of several RV8's that have > sucessfully installed 6" tires on them. > > There are 3 different ways to approach it. > > #1) Buy the bigger 1 1/2" axle and bolt it on in place of the smaller one > supplied by Van's. This is the easiest route, and I think if you contact > Grove (landing gear folks), they can probably set you up. Then you can > install standard 6.00x6's on it. > > #2) Built a bushing that buids up the axle from 1 1/4" to 1 1/2", then > install the 6.00 wheels. If the wheels are not too wide, I've seen this > done. > > #3) Find some funky sized tire that is a 5" tire, but much larger in size. > Surprisingly, this has also been done, but don't know too much about it. > > With the flat landing gear, my choice would be to find a larger axle, bolt > it on, buy larger wheels/brakes and go! Not the cheapest route, but most > likely the easiest. And, keep in mind this is only a possibility on the RV8 > with the flat gear, can't change the axle sizes on the spring rod gears of > the other RV's. > > Cheers, > Stein Bruch > RV6's, Minneapolis. > > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jacob & Grace > To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV8-List: Hello ...where did everybody go? > > > > I am surprised no one can help me with the tire question.....hope I didn't > offend. Come to think of it I have seen very little activity...maybe > everybody is out flying! > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 26, 2004
From: Jim Bean <jim-bean(at)att.net>
Subject: Jacking RV-8
hi all, I can't seem to find a way to get a jack under the gear leg of my RV-8. There isn't enough area at the bottom of the gear leg for a floor jack. I can't get it close enough. Is it possible to jack under the wing? What have you all done? Jim Bean Mounting empinage ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jim Daniels <jwdanie(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Jacking RV-8
Date: Jun 26, 2004
> hi all, > I can't seem to find a way to get a jack under the gear leg of my RV-8. > There isn't enough area at the bottom of the gear leg for a floor jack. > I can't get it close enough. Is it possible to jack under the wing? > What have you all done? > Jim Bean Here's one idea: http://bobby.hargrave.home.att.net/pages/Jack.html I used a bottle jack suitably raised to do the same thing, but making a sturdy stand as shown is the better way to go. Jim Daniels ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jimmy Hill" <jimmy(at)jhill.biz>
Subject: Re: Jacking RV-8
Date: Jun 27, 2004
Jim: What I have done is put a bolt in the tie down hole and use an aircraft jack to lift at that point. It seems to work fine. Jimmy 8A ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jim Bean" <jim-bean(at)att.net> Subject: RV8-List: Jacking RV-8 > > hi all, > I can't seem to find a way to get a jack under the gear leg of my RV-8. > There isn't enough area at the bottom of the gear leg for a floor jack. > I can't get it close enough. Is it possible to jack under the wing? > What have you all done? > Jim Bean > Mounting empinage > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Tom Scherder" <tomscherder(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Jacking RV-8
Date: Jun 27, 2004
Jim, One easy way to jack your RV 8 is to use a muffler clamp placed around the gear leg. Tighten the muffler clamp and use a floor jack or a small bottle jack and it works just fine. Tom Scherder RV 8 N38NE ready to fly--waiting on the FAA ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jim Bean" <jim-bean(at)att.net> Subject: RV8-List: Jacking RV-8 > > hi all, > I can't seem to find a way to get a jack under the gear leg of my RV-8. > There isn't enough area at the bottom of the gear leg for a floor jack. > I can't get it close enough. Is it possible to jack under the wing? > What have you all done? > Jim Bean > Mounting empinage > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Sally and George" <aeronut58(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Jacking RV=8
Date: Jun 27, 2004
Jim: I used a standard aircraft jack (intended for a Bonanza) on the wing tie-down. It has a concave top surface which the tie down ring fits nicely into. Its been safe and secure. George > >From: Jim Bean <jim-bean(at)att.net> >Subject: RV8-List: Jacking RV-8 > > >hi all, >I can't seem to find a way to get a jack under the gear leg of my RV-8. >There isn't enough area at the bottom of the gear leg for a floor jack. >I can't get it close enough. Is it possible to jack under the wing? >What have you all done? >Jim Bean >Mounting empinage > > From will you? to I do, MSN Life Events is your resource for Getting Married. http://lifeevents.msn.com/category.aspx?cid=married ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Paul Schattauer" <chasm711(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: Jacking RV=8
Date: Jun 28, 2004
Jim The wing jack works really well but if you jack both wings at the same time be careful that the aircraft doesn't tip forward onto the prop. It's not pretty. The jacks are available in trade a plane for about $130 apiece, you really only need one. Paul >From: "Sally and George" <aeronut58(at)hotmail.com> >Reply-To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com >To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: RV8-List: Re: Jacking RV=8 >Date: Sun, 27 Jun 2004 22:34:09 -0500 > > >Jim: > >I used a standard aircraft jack (intended for a Bonanza) on the wing >tie-down. It has a concave top surface which the tie down ring fits nicely >into. Its been safe and secure. > >George > > > > > >From: Jim Bean <jim-bean(at)att.net> > >Subject: RV8-List: Jacking RV-8 > > > > > >hi all, > >I can't seem to find a way to get a jack under the gear leg of my RV-8. > >There isn't enough area at the bottom of the gear leg for a floor jack. > >I can't get it close enough. Is it possible to jack under the wing? > >What have you all done? > >Jim Bean > >Mounting empinage > > > > > >From will you? to I do, MSN Life Events is your resource for Getting >Married. http://lifeevents.msn.com/category.aspx?cid=married > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "RV_8 Pilot" <rv_8pilot(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Jacking RV-8
Date: Jun 28, 2004
1.0 FROM_HAS_ULINE_NUMS From: contains an underline and numbers/letters I built a wooden inverted pyramid shaped device that sits under the tie down location. I use a bolt threaded into the tie down, through the wood, to keep it from moving. Use a floor jack under the apex of the wooden device to lift. Cumbersome, but I'm not comfortable with lifting at the tie down pt alone. Not only that, but my wooden thing cost less to build than an aircraft jack. Bryan Jones -8 www.LoneStarSquadron.com Houston, Texas >hi all, >I can't seem to find a way to get a jack under the gear leg of my RV-8. >There isn't enough area at the bottom of the gear leg for a floor jack. >I can't get it close enough. Is it possible to jack under the wing? >What have you all done? >Jim Bean >Mounting empinage > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 29, 2004
From: "Jim.Truitt(at)usdoj.gov" <Jim.Truitt(at)usdoj.gov>
Subject: Jacking RV-8
(Receipt Notification Requested) I have an RV-8A, but I think this would work on a tail dragger. I bought an ATV lift on sale at Sears (75). Used some 4 X 4s to build up a carriage to sit on the lift legs and topped it with a 6 X 6 covered with a clean cotton towel. I place the cotton covered 6 X 6 directly under the center belly where the wing spar runs through and slowly lift the plane. The capacity of the ATV lift is 1500 lbs. so full fuel is still well under that. You do, however, have to be careful about the side to side balance when it's up on the lift, but you usually only need the mains up a half inch or so. I place a padded sawhorse under the tail and if need be, a wood block under the nosewheel. I'm too cheap to spend 260.00 on two wing jacks. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 29, 2004
From: John Bombard <jtb1(at)prodigy.net>
Subject: Wing Tips
I have a pair of the new sheared wing tips for my RV-8A that I would like to swap for a pair of the old style. I think the sheared type look better on the RV-8 but that the old style look better on the 8A. If anyone is interested in making a swap please contact me off list at jtb1(at)prodigy.net or give me a call at (803) 663-6415. Jack RV-8A Fuselage Trenton, SC ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com>
Subject: Wing Tips
Date: Jun 29, 2004
Jack, You will probably get several offers, but I have my old-style wing tips hanging on the wall in my living room since I got them probably four or five years ago. I bought a set of wingtip tanks that are also the old style and will be using them instead of the regular old style. I don't know what they are worth or what the shipping would be, but I haven't worried much about selling them because they look kind of nice hanging high up on the two-story wall. Visitors think they are sculpture, but they usually ask about the completed tail section hanging from the living room ceiling. If you don't find any closer that someone wants to get rid off, send me a note. I don't need the ones you have. Terry RV-8A #80729 Seattle -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of John Bombard Subject: RV8-List: Wing Tips I have a pair of the new sheared wing tips for my RV-8A that I would like to swap for a pair of the old style. I think the sheared type look better on the RV-8 but that the old style look better on the 8A. If anyone is interested in making a swap please contact me off list at jtb1(at)prodigy.net or give me a call at (803) 663-6415. Jack RV-8A Fuselage Trenton, SC ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "jtb1" <jtb1(at)prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Wing Tips
Date: Jun 30, 2004
Thanks for the offer Terry but I think I have found a pair much closer to home which will reduce shipping costs by a whole bunch. Jack ----- Original Message ----- From: "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com> Subject: RE: RV8-List: Wing Tips | | Jack, | | You will probably get several offers, but I have my old-style wing tips | hanging on the wall in my living room since I got them probably four or five | years ago. I bought a set of wingtip tanks that are also the old style and | will be using them instead of the regular old style. I don't know what they | are worth or what the shipping would be, but I haven't worried much about | selling them because they look kind of nice hanging high up on the two-story | wall. Visitors think they are sculpture, but they usually ask about the | completed tail section hanging from the living room ceiling. If you don't | find any closer that someone wants to get rid off, send me a note. I don't | need the ones you have. | | Terry | RV-8A #80729 | Seattle | | | -----Original Message----- | From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com | [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of John Bombard | To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com | Subject: RV8-List: Wing Tips | | | I have a pair of the new sheared wing tips for my RV-8A that I would like to | swap for a pair of the old style. I think the sheared type look better on | the RV-8 but that the old style look better on the 8A. If anyone is | interested in making a swap please contact me off list at jtb1(at)prodigy.net | or give me a call at (803) 663-6415. | | Jack | RV-8A Fuselage | Trenton, SC | | | | | | ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Clark, Thomas IFC" <Tom.Clark(at)utcfuelcells.com>
Subject: RV8 Fastback is Flying
Date: Jul 02, 2004
RV-list, One more -8 is Flying, After close to six years of building...and flying two other distractions, I finally got a highly modified RV8 Fastback in the air Tuesday night. No issues, no problems and performance is outstanding. Plane has an IO-360A1B 200+ hp with a Hartzell counterweighted CS aerobatic prop, 4 into 1 exhaust, Sky Dynamics cold air intake and sump system, inverted oil, a completely modified upper fuselage and canopy, plus Grove Aluminum gear. I put a quick picture in the RV8 Yahoo site picture folder. Tom Clark 525TC RV8 Fastback Tom Clark Design & Mechanical Systems Manager UTC Fuel Cells, 195 Gov. Hwy South Windsor, CT 860-727-2287 Office 860-604-5826 Cell 860-727-7666 Fax e-mail: tom.clark(at)utcfuelcells.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: RV8 Fastback is Flying
Date: Jul 02, 2004
From: "Rabaut, Chuck" <Chuck.Rabaut(at)fresnosheriff.org>
Tom, Please send some pics to the list; for those of us who don't "Yahooo". Thanks, Chuck -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Clark, Thomas IFC Subject: RV8-List: RV8 Fastback is Flying RV-list, One more -8 is Flying, After close to six years of building...and flying two other distractions, I finally got a highly modified RV8 Fastback in the air Tuesday night. No issues, no problems and performance is outstanding. Plane has an IO-360A1B 200+ hp with a Hartzell counterweighted CS aerobatic prop, 4 into 1 exhaust, Sky Dynamics cold air intake and sump system, inverted oil, a completely modified upper fuselage and canopy, plus Grove Aluminum gear. I put a quick picture in the RV8 Yahoo site picture folder. Tom Clark 525TC RV8 Fastback Tom Clark Design & Mechanical Systems Manager UTC Fuel Cells, 195 Gov. Hwy South Windsor, CT 860-727-2287 Office 860-604-5826 Cell 860-727-7666 Fax e-mail: tom.clark(at)utcfuelcells.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Wayne R. Couture" <commando@cox-internet.com>
Subject: Skyloc fastners
Date: Jul 04, 2004
I just received the Skyloc fastener kit from "Skybolt" and in the instructions it says that they used 2024T3 .064 for support strips although others have used thinner strips with good results. .064 seems pretty thick to me. I'd like to find out what others have used? Wayne Couture RV-8A ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jim Daniels <jwdanie(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Skyloc fastners
Date: Jul 04, 2004
> I just received the Skyloc fastener kit from "Skybolt" and in the > instructions it says that they used 2024T3 .064 for support strips > although others have used thinner strips with good results. .064 > seems pretty thick to me. I'd like to find out what others have used? If I were to do it over, I'd go with .050 as a good compromise. http://home.comcast.net/~jwdweb2/Cowl1/cowl1.html Jim Daniels ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Doug Ripley" <dougr(at)hurricanefilter.com>
Subject: Re: Skyloc fastners
Date: Jul 05, 2004
Wayne, I used .050 and it worked fine. They told me not to use less than that, and I now understand why. The rivet holes for the recepticals are 1/8", so the .050 gives plenty of thickness for counter-sinking. They supply some glass with the kit that makes a build-up of approximately 3/16", to be used around the edges of the cowl for stiffening so it won't buldge out during flight. I didn't put it on the edge that attaches to the firewall, I added a couple layers of glass cloth there, but I did use it on the sides. You have to put it on the top and the bottom half so the cowl will be the same thickness. (wish I had some pictures) This stuff has ribs in it, kinda like honeycomb....it's real light. I filled the holes between the ribs with microballoons to prevent crushing it when riveting on the aluminum strip. I cut the strips they provided in half, leaving approximately 2" wide pieces, then glassed it to the cowl sides, butted up against the thicker honeycomb material in the cowl. Then filled the slight gap between the honeycomb in the cowl and the reinforcement strip with microbaloons. This way the inside of the cowl is smooth for painting, helps prevent oil from getting into corners. Good luck! Those things are awesome!!!!! ----- Original Message ----- From: "Wayne R. Couture" <commando@cox-internet.com> Subject: RV8-List: Skyloc fastners <commando@cox-internet.com> > > I just received the Skyloc fastener kit from "Skybolt" and in the instructions it says that they used 2024T3 .064 for support strips although others have used thinner strips with good results. .064 seems pretty thick to me. I'd like to find out what others have used? > > Wayne Couture > RV-8A > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Scott Clarkson" <sclarkson(at)tellurian.net>
Subject: Re: Skyloc fastners
Date: Jul 05, 2004
Wayne, I used .063 2024T3 for the support strips. Although it may seem heavy, after cutting them to size and taking notches out between each fastener they actually were not hard to work with. I'm sure .050 would be more than adequate but I had .063 in my shop so I used it. A little extra strength in this area probably wouldn't hurt anyway. It worked out to (3) pieces. One support strip across the top and one on each side wrapping around the bottom to the cooling ramp. Scott Clarkson N360SC reserved ----- Original Message ----- From: "Wayne R. Couture" <commando@cox-internet.com> Subject: RV8-List: Skyloc fastners <commando@cox-internet.com> > > I just received the Skyloc fastener kit from "Skybolt" and in the instructions it says that they used 2024T3 .064 for support strips although others have used thinner strips with good results. .064 seems pretty thick to me. I'd like to find out what others have used? > > Wayne Couture > RV-8A > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Gull9914(at)aol.com
Date: Jul 07, 2004
Subject: Re: RV8 Fastback is flying
I'm a RV-8 builder wannabe trying to learn. What is a fastback. I made a diligent search on Yahoo & couldn't find the RV8 site mentioned. The actualaddress would be appreciated ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 07, 2004
From: Justin Hagemeier <jhagem(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: RV8 Empennage For Sale
Hello All, I have an RV8 Empennage for sale. Completely finished complete with Photos and logs. This will save you 200 hrs. of labor for those eager to complete your project. I am asking $1600 shipping to anywhere in the US included. Or make me an offer. I am selling it because my life has yet again changed, and I need the cash. Thanks, Justin Hagemeier ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Scott Clarkson" <sclarkson(at)tellurian.net>
Subject: Deluxe Quadrant revisited
Date: Jul 07, 2004
I know this has been covered a bunch in the past but I'm not getting enough throw on the throttle, mixture, or prop with the deluxe quadrant. There was mention of re-drilling the mixture control arm on the servo a little closer to the pivot point but this isn't possible on the throttle arm or the prop gov. What's been the consensus? Re-drill the quadrant arms higher up or cut the slots longer in the quadrant itself? Save me from the archives! Scott Clarkson N360SC reserved ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 08, 2004
From: "Dean C. Merchant" <merchant.2(at)osu.edu>
Subject: RV-8, ELT Antenna Location
Hello; I have a question. In order to assure the ELT antenna isn't buried after an unfortunate event, it seems necessary to mount it between the foward edge of the vertical stabilizer and the aft travel of the canopy. Are there any other choices? Thanks for your comments. Dean "working the fire wall forward" DEAN C. MERCHANT (614)451-6897 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Doug Ripley" <dougr(at)hurricanefilter.com>
Subject: Re: RV-8, ELT Antenna Location
Date: Jul 08, 2004
Surf the links at www.rv-8.com. I think Randy is the one that put his in the empenage, under the fairing. That's where I put my antenna, and mounted the ELT itself in the rear baggage compartment. Doug Ripley N821DT flying in 2 weeks (?) ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dean C. Merchant" <merchant.2(at)osu.edu> Subject: RV8-List: RV-8, ELT Antenna Location > > Hello; I have a question. In order to assure the ELT antenna isn't buried > after an unfortunate event, it seems necessary to mount it between the > foward edge of the vertical stabilizer and the aft travel of the canopy. > Are there any other choices? > > Thanks for your comments. > Dean "working the fire wall forward" > DEAN C. MERCHANT > (614)451-6897 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 08, 2004
From: jonweisw <jonweisw(at)rcn.com>
Subject: Re: RV-8, ELT Antenna Location
I put mine under the empennage fairing. Pix included. Just tested it today...works fine. Jon Weiswasser N898JW Almost there.... Dean C. Merchant wrote: > >Hello; I have a question. In order to assure the ELT antenna isn't buried >after an unfortunate event, it seems necessary to mount it between the >foward edge of the vertical stabilizer and the aft travel of the canopy. >Are there any other choices? > >Thanks for your comments. >Dean "working the fire wall forward" >DEAN C. MERCHANT >(614)451-6897 > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 09, 2004
Subject: [ Chuck & Dave Rowbotham ] : New Email List Photo Share Available!
From: Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com>
A new Email List Photo Share is available: Poster: Chuck & Dave Rowbotham Subject: Panel - N712CR http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/crowbotham@hotmail.com.07.09.2004/index.html o Main Photo Share Index http://www.matronics.com/photoshare o Submitting a Photo Share If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the following information along with your email message and files: 1) Email List or Lists that they are related to: 2) Your Full Name: 3) Your Email Address: 4) One line Subject description: 5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic: 6) One-line Description of each photo or file: Email the information above and your files and photos to: pictures(at)matronics.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 09, 2004
Subject: [ Tom Clark ] : New Email List Photo Share Available!
From: Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com>
A new Email List Photo Share is available: Poster: Tom Clark Subject: New Photo RV8 Fastback http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/Tom.Clark@UTCFuelCells.com.07.09.2004/index.html o Main Photo Share Index http://www.matronics.com/photoshare o Submitting a Photo Share If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the following information along with your email message and files: 1) Email List or Lists that they are related to: 2) Your Full Name: 3) Your Email Address: 4) One line Subject description: 5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic: 6) One-line Description of each photo or file: Email the information above and your files and photos to: pictures(at)matronics.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: <farmerrd(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject:
Date: Jul 14, 2004
have a Marvel Schebler, SPA-4-5 carburetor new in box and never on an engine for sale. When I built my Pitts I bought a new Lyc O-360-A1A and used a pressure carburetor instead of the Marvel Schebler that came with the new engine. Asking $900.00. 815-467-5046. farmerrd(at)sbcglobal.net. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jacob & Grace" <grizzlybear(at)klondiker.com>
Subject: Axles Wheels Brakes Tires and Tubes
Date: Jul 14, 2004
I have a set of wheels, brakes tires, tubes and axles, new, uninstalled, for sale for $ 250 less than Vans list price. Anyone interested can contact me at ; grizzlybear at klondiker dot com or phone me at 867-667-6563 or 3406 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: LitewoodsJoinery(at)aol.com
Date: Jul 14, 2004
Subject: RV8 Empennage Kit to sell or swap
Hi Everyone. I am in the process of assembling my tail section for the RV 8. After much discussion with my Family, it has been decided that we should build the RV 9. The motivation behind this being that it will be a lot easier teaching family members to fly with this model. Right now I have the 2 spars riveted and brackets attached, parts primed. I would love to be able to swap it for an RV 9 empennage kit,or failing that would sell it for $1280.00 plus shipping. You can reply by e mail to: flyinghi3(at)aol.com or phone me at 410-3494565. My name is Mike ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Warren Gretz <warrengretz(at)gretzaero.com>
Subject: Gretz Aero Heated Pitot Tubes and Mounting Brackets
Date: Jul 16, 2004
Hello Builders, We have been off of this list for some time, but wanted to let you know we are still making and selling parts for your aircraft. We have been in the process of moving our operation from Colorado to Idaho for the past several months. With luck, we should be settled into our new location in Idaho by the end of the first week of August. Meanwhile, our Heated Pitot Tube Mounting Bracket Kits are still very popular and we been keeping very busy producing them. We do want to let everyone know that we will need to increase our prices slightly, effective the 1st of August. This increse is due to our raw material costs going up and also shipping charges that have been going up over the past two years. We have tried to keep from raising prices as long as we can, but now need to do so. Sorry. GOOD NEWS is that we are getting very close to having our NEWEST Gretz Aero designed product available! It is the GA-1000. This is a heated pitot tube that is a totaly new design. It is completely different than any pitot before. The Gretz Aero heated pitot tube is called the GA-1000 and will look nearly like the PH502-12CR pitot tube except the GA-1000 will be black in color, and it will be lighter in weight than any other heated pitot tube on the market. The GA-1000 will be what we are calling a "smart" pitot tube. It will give the pilot feedback as to its operation on the panel. It will also be very energy conserative and be excellent installed in an aircraft with a small altanator in the electrical system. The only bad part is, it is not available yet. We plan on having it available very soon, if production does not throw us a problem. It has taken us MUCH MUCH longer to get this project done than we ever dreamed it would. The TARGET price on the GA-1000 is +/- $325 depending upon final production costs. This price will include shipping charges in the US. There are a number of builders that are purchasing our mounting bracket kit, which was designed for the PH502-12CR pitot, (which has been available for years), this same bracket kit will also fit the new GA-1000. Once the mounting bracket is installed in your aircraft, the GA-1000 pitot tube can be installed at a later date when it is available. Other pitot tubes that are now available, will also fit into the same mounting bracket as well as the GA-1000. We will make as big a splash as we can on our website, http://www.gretzaero.com , and this List, when the new Gretz Aero GA-1000 heated pitot tube product is available. There will be a page on the Gretz Aero website that will cover this product in great detail. I hope this information helps you. Your can place orders with Gretz Aero on the gretzaero.com website, print out the printable order form on the order page of the website and mail, or call the phone numbers below. If you want to reply to us about this message posting, please do so directly to my e-mail address below and not on the LIST. Good Building to you! Warren Gretz Gretz Aero 15405 Bates Creek Rd. Oreana, ID 83650 warrengretz(at)gretzaero.com http://www.gretzaero.com 720-308-0010 208-834-2312 Warren Gretz Gretz Aero ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Esten Spears" <ewspears(at)comcast.net>

Subject: Re: RV-List: Bolt on roll bar handles?
Date: Jul 18, 2004
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Bolt on roll bar handles? > From: czechsix(at)juno.com > > --> RV-List message posted by: czechsix(at)juno.com > > Just out of curiosity, does anyone share my concern about putting too > much stress on the rollbar by pulling on it (with or without handles)? > Perhaps the -6/7/9 series is more rigid due to the brace that goes up to > the center of the roll bar, but on my -8A I noticed before glassing in my > windshield that the roll bar would flex quite a bit by pushing/pulling on > it. I remember thinking at the time that this would imply quite a bit of > stress being transferred to the plexiglass via the screws that hold it to > the roll bar. Sounds to me like a crack waiting to happen. But maybe > extensive experience has proven that this is not a valid concern???? Mark, If your rollbar installation is so flexible you would be worried about cracking the windshield, then yours is way more flexible than it should be or any I've seen. Keep in mind its primary purpose is a "rollbar" which could be subjected to an 1800 # impact load and not collapse. I did a little study at our last Leeward Air Ranch Fly-In. I watched pilots getting in and out of RV8's and RV8A's. (We had 18 of them) Two of them had handles installed on the rollbar and of course used them.14 out of the remaining 16 of them put their hand on the windshield fairing at some point in the process of getting in or out. Certainly if you're young and agile you can do without it, but I wouldn't even consider building an 8 without one. Esten Spears, RV8A, 80922, N922ES (reserved), Leeward Air Ranch, Ocala, FL ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Maureen & Bob Christensen" <mchriste(at)danvilletelco.net>
Subject: Bolt on roll bar handles?
Date: Jul 18, 2004
Please tell me more . . .handles on the roll bar sound like a good idea . . . where can I see a picture or diagram so I know what's worked for others? Thanks, Bob Christensen RV-8 Builder in SE Iowa . . . (Fuse) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mauri Morin" <maurv8(at)bigsky.net>
Subject: Re: Bolt on roll bar handles?
Date: Jul 18, 2004
try http://www.aircraftextras.com/ Mauri Morin RV-8 wings/tanks Polson, Mt ----- Original Message ----- From: "Maureen & Bob Christensen" <mchriste(at)danvilletelco.net> Subject: RV8-List: Bolt on roll bar handles? > > Please tell me more . . .handles on the roll bar sound like a good idea . . > . where can I see a picture or diagram so I know what's worked for others? > > Thanks, > Bob Christensen > RV-8 Builder in SE Iowa . . . (Fuse) > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Esten Spears" <ewspears(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Bolt on roll bar handles?
Date: Jul 18, 2004
Bob, I made mine out of 5/16ths 4130 Tubing. No welding involved. Theres now a guy selling them of the same design except his are made from Aluminum Tubing. See at http://www.aircraftextras.com/Handles1.htm Esten Spears, RV8A, 80922, N922ES (reserved), Leeward Air Ranch, Ocala, FL ----- Original Message ----- From: "Maureen & Bob Christensen" <mchriste(at)danvilletelco.net> Subject: RV8-List: Bolt on roll bar handles? > > Please tell me more . . .handles on the roll bar sound like a good idea . . > . where can I see a picture or diagram so I know what's worked for others? > > Thanks, > Bob Christensen > RV-8 Builder in SE Iowa . . . (Fuse) > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Doug Ripley" <dougr(at)hurricanefilter.com>
Subject: registration
Date: Jul 19, 2004
You people would not believe the crap I'm going through to register my -8!!!!!!!! I'm in a partnership. We mailed our registration application the first time back in April, got it back late May with a letter, we listed the registration type as "partnership", but for our title, called each other "co-owner". The letter said that if it's a partnership, we must call ourselves "partners"....if we're calling ourselves "co-owners", we must list the registration as "co-ownership". Mailed it back out with the corrections in late May. We received that back last Saturday (over 45 days) with another letter. "Effective June 1, 2004, the registration applicant must print or type their name under their signature". Our registration was stamped as received by the feds June 2nd, one day after the new rule took effect, there was no warning that this would happen. We're done painting, moved the entire project to the airport on Sunday for final assembly. We will be ready for inspection in a week or two, but can't do that until we receive our registration back from the feds!!!!! Any of you know somebody with the FAA that can help me get this pushed through faster than 45+ days??? Doug Ripley / Terry Harper RV-8 N821DT (reserved and assigned, but not registered) Final assembly ________________________________________________________________________________
From: CBRxxDRV(at)aol.com
Date: Jul 19, 2004
Subject: Re: registration
In a message dated 7/19/04 8:09:47 AM Eastern Daylight Time, dougr(at)hurricanefilter.com writes: > Any of you know somebody with the FAA that can help me get this pushed > through faster than 45+ days??? > Federal Aviation Title Company 800-654-5694 Private company that does title work / title searchs. They can just about walk this stuff through. The fees are really pretty cheap. Ask for Heather .......but anyone can help you. Sal Capra Lakeland, FL My Home Page http://hometown.aol.com/cbrxxdrv/index.html ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Paul Schattauer" <chasm711(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: registration
Date: Jul 19, 2004
AOPA title search does it if you are a member and it's costs $100, I don't know if they will do it for non members or for how much. It took four days to get the registration in my hands. I have heard a ton of horror stories but in my 40- years in aviation my experiences with the FAA have all been positive (you just gotta do it their way) Paul >From: CBRxxDRV(at)aol.com >Reply-To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com >To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: Re: RV8-List: registration >Date: Mon, 19 Jul 2004 08:32:08 EDT > > >In a message dated 7/19/04 8:09:47 AM Eastern Daylight Time, >dougr(at)hurricanefilter.com writes: > > > > Any of you know somebody with the FAA that can help me get this pushed > > through faster than 45+ days??? > > > >Federal Aviation Title Company > >800-654-5694 > >Private company that does title work / title searchs. They can just >about walk this stuff through. The fees are really pretty cheap. >Ask for Heather .......but anyone can help you. > >Sal Capra >Lakeland, FL > My Home Page >http://hometown.aol.com/cbrxxdrv/index.html > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 21, 2004
From: N8RV(at)gte.net
Subject: OSHKOSH RV-8/-8A Builders' Meetings
Well, Oshkosh is less than a week away ... guess it's time to plan some builders' meetings, huh? Unless someone grabs it by the horns, here's the plan ... Usual location, The Theater in the Woods, under the shadiest tree. THURSDAY, July 29, 9 AM SATURDAY, July 31, 9 AM (my birthday, incidentally ... if you have an extra IO-360 you wanna present, please advise me so I can make room in my truck for the return trip!) All RV-8/-8A builders welcome, including those who wannabe RV-8/-8A builders (heck, anyone who loves RVs can come -- just bring DOUGHNUTS!!) As usual, I'll have nametags and Sharpies. Bring your own coffee. Bob Dimeo will bring doughnuts [yeah, right! :-)] Any problems with those times, feel free to speak up. Otherwise, I'll see all of you on Thursday and Saturday mornings! -- Don McNamara N8RV ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: registration
From: "Greg V. Miller" <gvm(at)cableone.net>
Date: Jul 22, 2004
The FAA is a monopoly. It's not surprising that we are being very poorly served by them. The pilots with 'issues' with their medicals are worst off. I have found one has to expect incompetence at every step, and do their jobs for them in advance. Once the inspection is done read over the operating limitations very carefully--it took the feds three times to get mine right. Critical areas they are likely to screw up are allowed aerobatics maneuvers, IFR, and flight over densely populated areas/airways. The good news for us is that once you complete your fly-off, and the op limitations are correct, at least with regard to the aircraft, we are free from federal meddling forever! 370 hrs on my RV8--what a machine! On Mon, 2004-07-19 at 06:04, Doug Ripley wrote: > > You people would not believe the crap I'm going through to register my -8!!!!!!!! > > I'm in a partnership. We mailed our registration application the first time back in April, got it back late May with a letter, we listed the registration type as "partnership", but for our title, called each other "co-owner". The letter said that if it's a partnership, we must call ourselves "partners"....if we're calling ourselves "co-owners", we must list the registration as "co-ownership". Mailed it back out with the corrections in late May. > > We received that back last Saturday (over 45 days) with another letter. "Effective June 1, 2004, the registration applicant must print or type their name under their signature". Our registration was stamped as received by the feds June 2nd, one day after the new rule took effect, there was no warning that this would happen. > > We're done painting, moved the entire project to the airport on Sunday for final assembly. We will be ready for inspection in a week or two, but can't do that until we receive our registration back from the feds!!!!! > > Any of you know somebody with the FAA that can help me get this pushed through faster than 45+ days??? > > Doug Ripley / Terry Harper > RV-8 N821DT (reserved and assigned, but not registered) > Final assembly > > > > -- Greg V. Miller ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 23, 2004
From: N8RV(at)gte.net
"RV-8 List (Yahoo)"
Subject: Oshkosh Builders' Meetings
OK, gang, I've got "Lurch", the Urban Assault Vehicle, all loaded for bear and headed up the road for Oshkosh. I should be camped somewhere on or near 38th Street in Camp Scholler for anyone interested in stopping by for a free beer or just to harass me for not finishing my plane. I'll have a big yellow sign with "N8RV" on it, so you can't miss it. However, most days I'll be on the flight line like everybody else and at nights I hold court at Friar Tuck's. If you hook up with me there, YOU get to buy the beer! That said, here's the meeting schedule for anyone interested. I know there are some potential conflicts, but there always are. That's why we have two meetings... THURSDAY, July 29th, 9:00 am SATURDAY, July 31st, 9:00 am Theater in the Woods, look for people standing around, telling lies and waiting patiently for Bob Dimeo to bring doughnuts. :-) -- Don McNamara N8RV ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Fabian Lefler" <fablef(at)bellsouth.net>
, , , , , , , ,
Subject: Aluminum Vents Sale
Date: Jul 31, 2004
I am overstocked with Black Anodized Aluminum Vents, so for the month of August, I will offer these at $199.00 with free shipping. Regular Price is $235.00 with a $10.00 shipping charge. These vents are the same size as Van's plastic vents including the mounting holes. Our black anodized vents are unique in that we made the eyeball and mechanism of out aluminum, but the flanges are plastic so that the corners can be rounded off, just like Van's, and not expose the clear aluminum. You can see the vents here: http://www.affordablepanels.com/aluminum_vents_files/IM001220.JPG You can order the vents here: http://www.affordablepanels.com/aluminum_vents.htm This special is only available during this month, or until I run out of vents. Regards, Fabian ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Fabian Lefler" <fablef(at)bellsouth.net>
, , , ,
Subject: Aluminum Vents Sale Posting
Date: Aug 01, 2004
List members, I received a nastygram from an individual who read my posting regarding aluminum vents sale, so before the Oshkosh crowds return to the list and this becomes a real problem, I'll offer my apologies in advance to the group. I typically leave my business away from the list, but I thought some should benefit from my error. Again, my apologies. Regards, Fabian ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 01, 2004
rv8-list(at)matronics.com, rv9-list(at)matronics.com, europa-list(at)matronics.com, glasair-list(at)matronics.com, lancair-list(at)matronics.com, rocket-list(at)matronics.com
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: "Advertising" on the Lists...
>I received a nastygram from an individual who read my posting regarding >aluminum vents sale, so before the Oshkosh crowds return to the list and >this becomes a real problem, I'll offer my apologies in advance to the >group. > >Fabian Listers, I encourage small business owners such as Fabian to promote their products on the Lists. I do ask, however, that the flavor of the messages not be in the traditional form of spam messages, but more in the context of a personal message. Obviously, moderation is in order as well. The Lists are a forum for all types of dialog that involve the particular List in question. If all of the Listers on a given List were in one big room meeting and communicating in the manner that we do on the Lists, then people such as Fabian and myself, for that matter, would obviously be promoting our products to anyone that would listen. In fact, we would likely be invited to give a presentation on it to the group. The List isn't about commercialism, but it is about sharing knowledge. This extends to everyone, including those that provide products to the community. Best regards, Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Admin. Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551 925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft ________________________________________________________________________________
From: <farmerrd(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Reply to Scott
Date: Aug 01, 2004
Scott....You should be ashamed of yourself...posting stuff with a Christian flavor....Don't you know this is American!!..Don't you know that there is no room for Christians in America....For Shame...Sir. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Fabian Lefler" <fablef(at)bellsouth.net>
, , , ,
Subject: Re: [RV7Yahoo] Aluminum Vents Sale Posting
Date: Aug 02, 2004
Thank you everyone for your kind words. The list and yahoo group exists for one reason and one reason only... to share information about building airplanes. Being a builder myself, I am sensitive to that. Heck, I am the first one to admit that if I had to open my e-mail just to sort out what is building related and what is not, I would unsubscribe immediately. Look at the Sport Aviation magazine these days. Can anyone guess what the building articles vs advertisement ratio is? I bet you it is 2 to 1 in favor of advertising. As such, after receiving an e-mail message directly from an upset list member, I thought the least I could do was to apologize. I will confess that I was bothered by the excessive number of four letter words used in his e-mail, not to mention the detailed instructions as to what to do with my vents, which involved using parts of my body that never intended to suffer that much. I try very hard not to post silly questions to the list, or answer other member's questions, just so that I can close the e-mail with my company name below it. Nor do I regularly advertise that I have something in stock on sale just to increase sales for that month. I had hope that before anyone complained about me, he or she would realize that the person who posted the message doesn't do it on a regular basis. I guess that doesn't always work with hotheads. I'll make this e-mail short and sweet and say that, in the future, I will let my website, and previously satisfied customers, do the advertisement for me. Hope to meet you all in the near future. Fabian ________________________________________________________________________________
From: <farmerrd(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject:
Date: Aug 03, 2004
Gents...I have an unusual request. Does anyone out there have an Adaptec Easy CD Creator 4? I am trying to upgrade to vs 6 and I have to uninstall vs 4 but I have lost the disc and the uninstall file is corrupted. If anyone has one would you be kind enough to let me use it to reinstall so I can uninstall. Sound dumb I know. Also, I can't go online with this puter. Help Help?? Thanks. Rod Daulton, Minooka, IL 815-467-5046 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Doug Brinlee" <abfbrinlee(at)att.net>
Subject: WTB rv-8 kit.
Date: Aug 04, 2004
Please call or email... ph 405-206-6768 email abfbrinlee(at)att.net Kit for rv 8 wanted... will be in colorado springs area on vacation over weekend... so anything in the surrounding states would be of intrest.. Doug ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 04, 2004
From: N8RV(at)gte.net
"RV-8 List (Yahoo)"
Subject: EFIS: Dynon vs Grand Rapids
Curious to hear opinions comparing the Dynon EFIS and the Grand Rapids Technologies EFIS. Has anyone done a side-by-side comparison with our particular planes in mind? Each seems like a nice unit. With any luck, I'll be making a decision in the next few months and would like to hear some opinions from those of you who have a knack with such gizmos. Thanks. -- Don N8RV ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David Schaefer" <dschaefer1(at)kc.rr.com>
Subject: EFIS: Dynon vs Grand Rapids
Date: Aug 04, 2004
I have three of the Grand Rapids units and evaluated the Dynon. I chose Grand Rapids for the flexibility and future enhancements as well as the size of the box. Can't think of better folks to work with. Regards, David RV6-A Finishing -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of N8RV(at)gte.net Subject: RV8-List: EFIS: Dynon vs Grand Rapids Curious to hear opinions comparing the Dynon EFIS and the Grand Rapids Technologies EFIS. Has anyone done a side-by-side comparison with our particular planes in mind? Each seems like a nice unit. With any luck, I'll be making a decision in the next few months and would like to hear some opinions from those of you who have a knack with such gizmos. Thanks. -- Don N8RV ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "jrstone" <jrstone(at)insightbb.com>
Subject: Blue Mountain Avionics EFIS
Date: Aug 04, 2004
Hi all, Just got back from Oshkosh where I got a close look at the latest BMA EFIS one. I was very impressed with it and was comparing it to the GRI EFIS called the Horizon 1. I have followed BMA since they started up 4 years ago and was not overly impressed with them enough to spend big dollars on their product. I heard lots of promises and optimism, and unfortunately some gripes from unhappy customers. They (BMA) seem to have it together now, and they offer a much better product. I would like to hear of any dealings with these folks, good or bad, so that I might make a more informed decision. Some say getting the EFIS one up and running is a real bear, but BMA sez if you follow their guidelines, you won't have any problems. Thanks, Jim > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: <groves(at)epix.net>
Subject: Re: EFIS: Dynon vs Grand Rapids
Date: Aug 05, 2004
Hello Don, I am not anywhere near flying yet,but I thought I would add my two cents... Check out the Blue Mountain EFIS light I was planning on the Dynon but after looking at all of the units I am sold on the blue mountain product. The price diffrence for the BM EFIS light is only a couple hundred more and you get a built in GPS, as well as in my opnion a much higher quality unit. The Dynon is nice but really does not compare to the BM EFIS. Just my opnion... Good Luck Kirk RV-8 wings > > From: N8RV(at)gte.net > Date: 2004/08/04 Wed PM 05:52:12 EDT > To: "RV-8 List (Matronics)" , > "RV-8 List (Yahoo)" > Subject: RV8-List: EFIS: Dynon vs Grand Rapids > > > Curious to hear opinions comparing the Dynon EFIS and the Grand Rapids > Technologies EFIS. Has anyone done a side-by-side comparison with our > particular planes in mind? Each seems like a nice unit. > > With any luck, I'll be making a decision in the next few months and > would like to hear some opinions from those of you who have a knack with > such gizmos. > > Thanks. > > -- Don > N8RV > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 05, 2004
From: N414C <N414C(at)direcway.com>
Subject: Re: EFIS: Dynon vs Grand Rapids
No experience with Dynon or Grand Rapids. I do have about 50hrs on a Blue Mountian EFIS one and an EFIS Lite as backup. They function well, are intuitive and make flying the plane a breeze. It is easy to change parameters or make adjustments as well as upload changes. The autopilot is a little too aggressive for my taste but works well otherwise. The gyros do well in aertobatics. It was easy to adapt to after flying steam guages for 30 years. Really have had no service issues with it yet so cannot talk to company service but I really like the unit. Have not even seen a Dynon or GR so cannot give a comparison. Milt ----- Original Message ----- From: groves(at)epix.net To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Thursday, August 05, 2004 7:43 AM Subject: Re: RV8-List: EFIS: Dynon vs Grand Rapids Hello Don, I am not anywhere near flying yet,but I thought I would add my two cents... Check out the Blue Mountain EFIS light I was planning on the Dynon but after looking at all of the units I am sold on the blue mountain product. The price diffrence for the BM EFIS light is only a couple hundred more and you get a built in GPS, as well as in my opnion a much higher quality unit. The Dynon is nice but really does not compare to the BM EFIS. Just my opnion... Good Luck Kirk RV-8 wings > > From: N8RV(at)gte.net > Date: 2004/08/04 Wed PM 05:52:12 EDT > To: "RV-8 List (Matronics)" , > "RV-8 List (Yahoo)" > Subject: RV8-List: EFIS: Dynon vs Grand Rapids > > > Curious to hear opinions comparing the Dynon EFIS and the Grand Rapids > Technologies EFIS. Has anyone done a side-by-side comparison with our > particular planes in mind? Each seems like a nice unit. > > With any luck, I'll be making a decision in the next few months and > would like to hear some opinions from those of you who have a knack with > such gizmos. > > Thanks. > > -- Don > N8RV > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 05, 2004
From: Walter Tondu <walter(at)tondu.com>
Subject: Re: EFIS: Dynon vs Grand Rapids
On 08/04 8:51, David Schaefer wrote: > > I have three of the Grand Rapids units and evaluated the Dynon. I chose > Grand Rapids for the flexibility and future enhancements as well as the size > of the box. Can't think of better folks to work with. > > Regards, > David > RV6-A Finishing I also have three of the GRT units in place with the EIS. In my humble opinion, only the Chelton system is better, at twice the price. GRT, interfaces to arguably the best AP (Trutrak) out there for the money. They didn't try to design their own AP. They also interface to the most widely used GPS/NAV/COM on the market (Garmin GNS-430). They are still working on several interfaces, namely the ARINC 429, but that will be out "when it's ready", not shoved into the market space before it's tested thoroughly (hopefully within the next month). So if you are going to spend a whole crapload of money, you go with the Chelton, If you want to spend half the money, you go with the GRT. I'm not sure the rest of the players really do have as tightly integrated a system as GRT when you combine EFIS display (size, sunlight readability, refresh speed), Engine Monitoring (graphical EIS 4000), AP integration, GPS integration, NAV integration, Redundancy (multiple AHRS, magnetometers, displays) and overall simple design. Also, the GRT units are light as a feather! As well as the AHRS and magnetometer. Just look at the size of that Blue Mountain box. Of course, I've only said all of this to justify to myself how much money I've spent. Your mileage will vary. I'm not trying to start a "this is better than that war", I have builders' disease. -- Walter Tondu http://www.rv7-a.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Al Grajek" <algrajek(at)msn.com>
vansairforce(at)yahoogroups.com
Subject: Auto pilot installation
Date: Aug 06, 2004
Hi gang: Does anyone have any pics or info on the how and where the best installation might be for the aileron servo in an RV8 when installing a Navaid(or other) Auto pilot? Thanks in advance! Al Grajek RV8-A ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Esten Spears" <ewspears(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Auto pilot installation
Date: Aug 06, 2004
Al, I just posted my servo installation in wing photos here: http://photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/rv-8/lst?&.dir=/Navaid+Servo&.src=gr&.view=t&.url=http%3a//us.f1.yahoofs.com/groups/g_12798702/Navaid%2bServo/Navaid%2bServo%2bInst%2bView%2b1.jpg%3fbcpBiEwB386cqPGH&.cx=150&.cy=108&.type=u Esten Spears, RV8A, 80922, N922ES (reserved), Leeward Air Ranch, Ocala, FL ----- Original Message ----- From: "Al Grajek" <algrajek(at)msn.com> ; Subject: RV8-List: Auto pilot installation > > Hi gang: > Does anyone have any pics or info on the how and where the best installation > might be for the aileron servo in an RV8 when installing a Navaid(or other) > Auto pilot? > Thanks in advance! > Al Grajek > RV8-A > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Doug Ripley" <dougr(at)hurricanefilter.com>
Subject: Another RV8 Flies!
Date: Aug 16, 2004
On Saturday, August 14th, N821DT flew the first time. Serial # is 81905. Construction time was 18 months from standard kit. Total man-hours 1300 which includes paint. Engine is Mattituck IO-360-M1B 180 hp, Hartzell constant speed. Empty weight is 1,134#. Engine instruments are Van's steam gauges, full vacuum system, Skyforce IIIC moving map GPS. Paint is Sherwin-Williams Acry-Glo. The airworthiness inspection went well. It was done by Jim Paine of Hendersonville, NC. Jim is one of the new volunteer DAR's, and is first class. He has a Thorp T-18, and understands what we're doing and why we do it better than any commercial DAR. It was a pleasure working with him. First flight was from a 2500' grass strip, lots of trees around here, so the plan was to climb at a good angle (85-90 mph indicated) with right turn after takeoff that would put me over the first alternate ditch point, an open field. By looking at the pictures afterwards, the climb angle was about 70 degrees, and I was still indicating 110 mph!!! Leveled off at 4,000', reduced power to 24 squared, and airspeed rose to 208 mph!! I thought "WOW....we built a FAST airplane!!!!. After flying around for about 30 minutes, I stalled it clean and indicated 100 mph. That explains the steep climb angle at 110 mph and fast cruise. I stalled with full flaps and indicated 62. I talked with Van's about the airspeed indicator, and they are sending another one to replace it. Static system is Van's pop rivet type. They say that higher indicated airspeeds are usually due to errors in the indicator itself, not the static system. Doug Ripley / Terry Harper 3485 Stillridge Drive Alpharetta, GA 30022 Phone 770-752-4898 Fax 770-752-1810 Cell 404-403-9208 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 18, 2004
From: N8RV(at)gte.net
"RV-8 List (Yahoo)"
Subject: Hartzell prop restrictions
I haven't read any grousing on the list about the operating restrictions listed in Van's catalog for the Hartzell props. In considering which prop to use, the restrictions are listed for each engine/prop combo and read something like this: "Note: When installed on an engine with magnetos, aftermarket electronic ignition, LASAR system, or FADEC system then the following restrictions apply: 1: Do not operate above 22" manifold pressure below 2350 rpm. 2: Operation above 2600 rpm is limited to takeoff. As soon as practical after takeoff the rpm should be reduced to 2600 rpm or less. 3: FADEC equipped aircraft maximum engine RPM must be limited to 2650 RPM at ALL times." Are these restrictions just CYA efforts, or are they significant? Do these limitations have any real impact on how our planes are flown? Thanks, Don N8RV ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Canopy Track Question
From: Don.Alexander(at)AstenJohnson.com
Date: Aug 20, 2004
08/20/2004 06:58:40 AM I am in the process of putting my C-804 / C-805 rear slide track together and have run into a question that I can't seem to find the answer to. The plans indicate that the 805 should be countersunk on both sides for the AN 426 rivets. I don't understand what this means. How does one go about driving the rivets on this assembly? I imagine that the shop head of the rivet somehow nests inside the bottom countersink, but I don't see how to drive the rivet down into a "funnel" shaped hole. Don Alexander ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jim Crunkleton" <crunk12(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Another RV8 Flies!
Date: Aug 20, 2004
Congratulations!!!!! I can't wait to see some pictures, or better yet, tell me where you are located and I'll come see it in person! Jim Crunkleton QB 80662-N802JD (First flight 9-15-2003) Senoia, GA (64GA) 770-599-6509 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 20, 2004
From: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
Subject: Re: Canopy Track Question
You just end up squeezing the rivet flush to the surface. > > >I am in the process of putting my C-804 / C-805 rear slide track together >and have run into a question that I can't seem to find the answer to. The >plans indicate that the 805 should be countersunk on both sides for the AN >426 rivets. I don't understand what this means. How does one go about >driving the rivets on this assembly? I imagine that the shop head of the >rivet somehow nests inside the bottom countersink, but I don't see how to >drive the rivet down into a "funnel" shaped hole. > >Don Alexander > > Scott Bilinski Eng dept 305 Phone (858) 657-2536 Pager (858) 502-5190 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Doug Ripley" <dougr(at)hurricanefilter.com>
Subject: Re: Another RV8 Flies!
Date: Aug 21, 2004
Thanks, Jim. The airplae is based at Air Acres airport in Woodstock. Would like to get together some time, my place or yours. I'm flying tomorrow (Saturday). My cell is 404-403-9208. There are some pictures here from the first flight http://www.iac3.org/RV8/firstflight.htm. Where do you keep your airplane? Doug ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jim Crunkleton" <crunk12(at)bellsouth.net> Subject: Re: RV8-List: Another RV8 Flies! > > Congratulations!!!!! > I can't wait to see some pictures, or better yet, tell me where you are > located and I'll come see it in person! > Jim Crunkleton > QB 80662-N802JD (First flight 9-15-2003) > Senoia, GA (64GA) > 770-599-6509 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jim Crunkleton" <crunk12(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Another RV8 Flies!
Date: Aug 21, 2004
Doug, I keep my plane at my house as I live in a hanger at "Big T" airport in Senoia (64 GA). I'm about 6 miles southeast of Peachtree City Falcon Field. Thanks for the links to the pix. That's one beautiful bird! Jim Crunkleton 770-599-6509 Cell 404-421-7699 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mark Rose" <av8er2(at)McLeodusa.net>
Subject: RV 8A toe in
Date: Aug 22, 2004
I'm new to messaging on the list but here go,s. How do you correct the toe in on the 8A? I have about 3/16s from a straight edge, don't know if that is too much or not. Thank,s Mark Rose 137MR reserved. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 23, 2004
From: Dale Mitchell <dfm4290(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RV 8A toe in
I would think you would want some toe in. As more weight is put on them they will tend to toe out. Just my opinion. Dale Mitchell RV-8A --- Mark Rose wrote: > > > I'm new to messaging on the list but here go,s. > How do you correct the toe in on the 8A? I have > about 3/16s from a straight edge, don't know if that > is too much or not. Thank,s Mark Rose 137MR > reserved. > > > > Contributions > any other > Forums. > > http://www.matronics.com/chat > > http://www.matronics.com/subscription > http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV8-List.htm > http://www.matronics.com/archives > http://www.matronics.com/photoshare > http://www.matronics.com/emaillists > > > > > > __________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Sally and George" <aeronut58(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: RV8-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 08/22/04
Date: Aug 23, 2004
Mark: Go to the Van's catalog. They have tapered shims that work just fine. If both mains are parallel to one another but are slightly misaligned with the centerline of the aircraft it won't be the end of the world. George N888GK flying kit #80221 wings > > I'm new to messaging on the list but here go,s. How do you correct the >toe in >on the 8A? I have about 3/16s from a straight edge, don't know if that is >too >much or not. Thank,s Mark Rose 137MR reserved. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 24, 2004
From: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
Subject: Re: RE: RV8-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 08/22/04
Great idea for the tail dragger. No go for the 8a. > >Mark: > >Go to the Van's catalog. They have tapered shims that work just fine. > >If both mains are parallel to one another but are slightly misaligned with >the centerline of the aircraft it won't be the end of the world. > > >George > >N888GK flying >kit #80221 wings > > > > > > I'm new to messaging on the list but here go,s. How do you correct the > >toe in > >on the 8A? I have about 3/16s from a straight edge, don't know if that is > >too > >much or not. Thank,s Mark Rose 137MR reserved. > > > > > > > Scott Bilinski Eng dept 305 Phone (858) 657-2536 Pager (858) 502-5190 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Eric Parlow" <ericparlow(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RVs at KTOA
Date: Aug 24, 2004
Looking for info on RVs, more specifically RV-8s, at KTOA. Or surrounding airports: KSMO, KLGB, KHHR. I'm considering moving there and RV's / Airports will weigh heavily into my decision. ERic-- RV-8 Wings ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 24, 2004
From: Skylor Piper <skylor4(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: RVs at KTOA
Eric, The RV population at Torrance is growing rapidly. I'm building an 8 QB with my father, and there is another flying 8A based there. There are also several 6's and 4's on the field, and at least 1 F1 Rocket under construction. Skylor Piper RV-8 QB Under Construction N808SJ Reserved --- Eric Parlow wrote: > --> RV-List message posted by: "Eric Parlow" > > > Looking for info on RVs, more specifically RV-8s, > at KTOA. > > Or surrounding airports: KSMO, KLGB, KHHR. > > I'm considering moving there and RV's / Airports > will weigh heavily into my > decision. > > ERic-- > RV-8 Wings > > > > Contributions > any other > Forums. > > http://www.matronics.com/chat > > http://www.matronics.com/subscription > http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm > http://www.matronics.com/archives > http://www.matronics.com/photoshare > http://www.matronics.com/emaillists > > > > > > _______________________________ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Tom Scherder" <tomscherder(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV 8A toe in
Date: Aug 24, 2004
Mark, There are shims that you can get to correct any toe in or toe out. Washers seem to work OK too. A little toe in is a good thing as it helps to keep the plane going straight. Since we all always make perfect3 pointers when we land we need to keep the alignment perfect, right? Just watch your tire wear and it will tell you if your eating tires, Have you ever flown a 172 that was actually in line? It's always best to get it as close as you can but the gear will flex and twist as we bounce and twist our way into a perfect landing. Try not to get eaten up in details. Build it right and it will fly great. Tom Scherder RV 8 N38NE flying ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mark Rose" <av8er2(at)McLeodusa.net> Subject: RV8-List: RV 8A toe in > > I'm new to messaging on the list but here go,s. How do you correct the toe in on the 8A? I have about 3/16s from a straight edge, don't know if that is too much or not. Thank,s Mark Rose 137MR reserved. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 25, 2004
From: Garey Wittich <gareywittich2000(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: "Need Extra Hands" in building a RV-8A QB - Santa Monica, Calif
rv8-list(at)matronics.com, rv9-list(at)matronics.com, rv-list(at)matronics.com Greetings: Any Builders who live in the Santa Monica, Calif area. Building a RV-8A QB in my garage 5 minutes from Santa Monica Airport and "need extra hands". Willing to help somebody with their project TOO. My wife does not want to get involved and the local EAA Chapter is all composite builders. At the rate I am making progress it will take me 5 life times to complete !!!!! Thanks, Garey Wittich (310) 392-1682 __________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: IFR instruments
Date: Aug 25, 2004
From: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde(at)hp.com>
, , , 1.7 SUSPICIOUS_RECIPS Similar addresses in recipient list Hi Guys, I was almost convinced the Garmin GNS 430 hooked to a Dynon and a Digitrack A/P was the almost perfect base to a light weight IFR setup for an RV-7, then I see that BMA has come out with the EFIS Lite G3 which has the GPS, and an electronic version of the VOR/GS receiver that can be driven by an SL30 Navcom. Apparently this system drives a BMA 2 axis autopilot. Looking at all of this gives me aN IFR panel for about $11k including the transponder and 2 axis A/P. The similar setup using the GNS 430 comes in at about $14.5K with single axis A/P. Anyone have any experience or thoughts on this set up? I haven't started IFR training yet so I'm fumbling a little on all the requirements...Not sure about the "indicator lights" (marker beacon?) that are apparently built into the Nav head that the GNS 430 would drive. Frank ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 25, 2004
From: David Thomas <vtol(at)shaw.ca>
Subject: IFR instruments
Careful... my suggestion is to fly it before you buy it...the thought of flushing all that money down the toilet bothers me -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis) rv6-list(at)matronics.com; rv8-list(at)matronics.com; rv9-list(at)matronics.com; rv-list(at)matronics.com Subject: RV8-List: IFR instruments Hi Guys, I was almost convinced the Garmin GNS 430 hooked to a Dynon and a Digitrack A/P was the almost perfect base to a light weight IFR setup for an RV-7, then I see that BMA has come out with the EFIS Lite G3 which has the GPS, and an electronic version of the VOR/GS receiver that can be driven by an SL30 Navcom. Apparently this system drives a BMA 2 axis autopilot. Looking at all of this gives me aN IFR panel for about $11k including the transponder and 2 axis A/P. The similar setup using the GNS 430 comes in at about $14.5K with single axis A/P. Anyone have any experience or thoughts on this set up? I haven't started IFR training yet so I'm fumbling a little on all the requirements...Not sure about the "indicator lights" (marker beacon?) that are apparently built into the Nav head that the GNS 430 would drive. Frank ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Tony Johnson" <tonyjohnson(at)cfl.rr.com>
Subject: IFR instruments
Date: Aug 25, 2004
Frank, I am also interested in learning more about the BMA EFIS lite 3. I do have some concerns about using it for IFR applications. Let me preface this by saying that I am no expert, and I am not even IFR rated at this point. It is my understanding that for a GPS to be approved for IFR it must have a left-right indication and annunciators. The G3 seems to have the left-right indication, but I did not see any indication that it had the annuciators. That would add about $750 to the package. The other issue is that I think, but do not know, that a GPS used for IFR work would have to be certified (or meet the TSO requirements) for IFR, either enroute or approach even in an experimental aircraft. I have not seen any indication that the G3 meets these requirements. The G3 is an impressive unit, although it lacks some of the features of the dynon, it has adds more. I did not see any indication that the G3 has AOA information, OAT, or density altitude. It does have winds aloft information, both speed and direction. I am wondering if it will interface with a NAVAID, and take VOR info from a NARCO Nav radio. I emailed BMA today with those questions. I will be interested in the observations and knowledge of other listers. Tony Johnson RV8A Orlando -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis) rv8-list(at)matronics.com; rv9-list(at)matronics.com; rv-list(at)matronics.com Subject: RV8-List: IFR instruments Hi Guys, I was almost convinced the Garmin GNS 430 hooked to a Dynon and a Digitrack A/P was the almost perfect base to a light weight IFR setup for an RV-7, then I see that BMA has come out with the EFIS Lite G3 which has the GPS, and an electronic version of the VOR/GS receiver that can be driven by an SL30 Navcom. Apparently this system drives a BMA 2 axis autopilot. Looking at all of this gives me aN IFR panel for about $11k including the transponder and 2 axis A/P. The similar setup using the GNS 430 comes in at about $14.5K with single axis A/P. Anyone have any experience or thoughts on this set up? I haven't started IFR training yet so I'm fumbling a little on all the requirements...Not sure about the "indicator lights" (marker beacon?) that are apparently built into the Nav head that the GNS 430 would drive. Frank ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jerry Hansen" <jerry-hansen(at)cox.net>
Subject: IFR instruments
Date: Aug 25, 2004
Many newer digital autopilots aimed at the experimental market find their best reference for navigation in a properly configured GPS data stream. The NMEA 0183 data stream and the AVLINK data stream (from Garmin and others) adhere to strict standards. Such digital autopilots are designed to accept data that adheres to these standards, and they typically work remarkably well when using such precise digital data. EFIS systems must also get their navigation information from outside sources, such as GPS. They may then process this information and provide an output for use by autopilots. If you are going to attach an autopilot to these systems, you MUST know what processes are being performed to the NMEA 0183 or AVLINK data streams once the EFIS digests it and provides an output to an autopilot. Some EFIS systems can get a little tricky in their "Heading" mode. When you select a heading on the EFIS, they might create a "phantom" waypoint some distance ahead of the aircraft at the heading that was selected. They then put this in the data stream, replacing the GPS BTW (Bearing to Waypoint) data with BTW of the phantom waypoint. The autopilot will then track to this course if the data is in the correct format. There can be some unknown parameters here... how far away is the "phantom" waypoint - is the autopilot capable of tracking to the output data as configured - are all of the required data passed through from the NMEA information (typically the RMB and RMC sentences) - and a whole host of other questions that must be addressed by the EFIS and autopilot manufacturers to assure fail safe operation. This is not to say that these systems won't work together. Just a "heads up" to prompt questions that might be asked of potential suppliers of such equipment - to be sure that you don't find yourself in a dark cumulus cloud someday with these questions left unanswered. Check with the systems manufacturers to get absolute assurance of compatibility. Remember that many of the EFIS and autopilot systems that are directed to experimental aircraft are not "certified" and therefore have not been subjected to the rigorous testing that is demanded by certification. This should create a huge question mark above your head. Jerry -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tony Johnson Subject: RE: RV8-List: IFR instruments Frank, I am also interested in learning more about the BMA EFIS lite 3. I do have some concerns about using it for IFR applications. Let me preface this by saying that I am no expert, and I am not even IFR rated at this point. It is my understanding that for a GPS to be approved for IFR it must have a left-right indication and annunciators. The G3 seems to have the left-right indication, but I did not see any indication that it had the annuciators. That would add about $750 to the package. The other issue is that I think, but do not know, that a GPS used for IFR work would have to be certified (or meet the TSO requirements) for IFR, either enroute or approach even in an experimental aircraft. I have not seen any indication that the G3 meets these requirements. The G3 is an impressive unit, although it lacks some of the features of the dynon, it has adds more. I did not see any indication that the G3 has AOA information, OAT, or density altitude. It does have winds aloft information, both speed and direction. I am wondering if it will interface with a NAVAID, and take VOR info from a NARCO Nav radio. I emailed BMA today with those questions. I will be interested in the observations and knowledge of other listers. Tony Johnson RV8A Orlando -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis) rv8-list(at)matronics.com; rv9-list(at)matronics.com; rv-list(at)matronics.com Subject: RV8-List: IFR instruments Hi Guys, I was almost convinced the Garmin GNS 430 hooked to a Dynon and a Digitrack A/P was the almost perfect base to a light weight IFR setup for an RV-7, then I see that BMA has come out with the EFIS Lite G3 which has the GPS, and an electronic version of the VOR/GS receiver that can be driven by an SL30 Navcom. Apparently this system drives a BMA 2 axis autopilot. Looking at all of this gives me aN IFR panel for about $11k including the transponder and 2 axis A/P. The similar setup using the GNS 430 comes in at about $14.5K with single axis A/P. Anyone have any experience or thoughts on this set up? I haven't started IFR training yet so I'm fumbling a little on all the requirements...Not sure about the "indicator lights" (marker beacon?) that are apparently built into the Nav head that the GNS 430 would drive. Frank ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "jrstone" <jrstone(at)insightbb.com>
Subject: Re: IFR instruments
Date: Aug 25, 2004
The biggest thing you loose is the ability to input more than one waypoint at a time. So if you want to do a cross country, you have to enter the next waypoint as you approach the current one. To me, that was a show stopper. Also in the negative category, the gps is not certified for approaches, the 430 is. I personally like the Grand Rapids EFIS, it has a built in GPS and has the nav feature for multiple waypoints. Jim Stone HRII ----- Original Message ----- From: "Hinde, Frank George (Corvallis)" <frank.hinde(at)hp.com> ; ; ; "1.7 SUSPICIOUS_RECIPS Similar addresses in recipient list" Subject: RV8-List: IFR instruments > > Hi Guys, > > I was almost convinced the Garmin GNS 430 hooked to a Dynon and a > Digitrack A/P was the almost perfect base to a light weight IFR setup > for an RV-7, then I see that BMA has come out with the EFIS Lite G3 > which has the GPS, and an electronic version of the VOR/GS receiver that > can be driven by an SL30 Navcom. Apparently this system drives a BMA 2 > axis autopilot. > > Looking at all of this gives me aN IFR panel for about $11k including > the transponder and 2 axis A/P. The similar setup using the GNS 430 > comes in at about $14.5K with single axis A/P. > > Anyone have any experience or thoughts on this set up? > > I haven't started IFR training yet so I'm fumbling a little on all the > requirements...Not sure about the "indicator lights" (marker beacon?) > that are apparently built into the Nav head that the GNS 430 would > drive. > > Frank > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 26, 2004
From: Paul Happ <phapp(at)yhp.com>
Subject: Compass Swinging
We need to do a compass correction card and we don't have access to a compass rose. Can anyone point me to a document or rule that provides a legal / FAA approved alternate method for compass swinging without a compass rose? I've heard a few things, like using a certified compass as a reference or using the published actual headings (i.e. RWY 29 is 294 degrees) for runways. But that wouldn't give us the other compass points. P. Happ N446PH (reserved) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 26, 2004
From: Ed Oconnor <edwardoconnor(at)mac.com>
Subject: IFR & RFIS
-----Original Message----- From: Joe Norris Subject: RE: Kit plane instrument requirements Wayne, There is no requirement for instruments in an amateur-built aircraft to be TSOed, even when used for IFR flying. The builder/pilot must simply meet the requirements of FAR 91.205. The only instance when a TSOed unit must be used is in the case of an IFR GPS. For these installations, the guidance contained in advisory circular AC 20-138 must be followed. Of course, in order to use the aircraft under IFR, the transponder, encoder, and pitot/static tests must also be current. In a case where a builder wants to use the aircraft under IFR, part of the initial flight test should be to verify that all instruments and equipment perform properly. This would involve flying approaches in VFR conditions (and not under the hood, as there can be no safety pilot in the aircraft during flight testing) to verify that the instruments perform their intended functions. Hope this helps. If you have any further questions, please let me know. Joe Norris EAA Aviation Information Services EAA Aviation Center, Oshkosh, WI 888-322-4636, extension 6806 jnorris(at)eaa.org --- End quoted text -- Joe is pushing further for a read from the FAA in writing to back us up. As I discussed (and hopefully won a bet) from Kirk last weekend, the "gyro instrument" called out in 91.205 can be an AHRS or FAA would have to ground all the AHRS equipped transports! If Boeing can do it, we can do it, except perhaps for less money. In short, EAA supports our read of the rules. We are waiting for a letter from FAA to cast it in concrete. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 26, 2004
From: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
Subject: Re: RV 8A toe in
Shims are for tail draggers, no adjustment for the "A" model. > >Mark, >There are shims that you can get to correct any toe in or toe out. Washers >seem to work OK too. A little toe in is a good thing as it helps to keep the >plane going straight. Since we all always make perfect3 pointers when we >land we need to keep the alignment perfect, right? Just watch your tire wear >and it will tell you if your eating tires, Have you ever flown a 172 that >was actually in line? It's always best to get it as close as you can but the >gear will flex and twist as we bounce and twist our way into a perfect >landing. Try not to get eaten up in details. Build it right and it will fly >great. >Tom Scherder >RV 8 N38NE flying >----- Original Message ----- >From: "Mark Rose" <av8er2(at)McLeodusa.net> >To: >Subject: RV8-List: RV 8A toe in > > > > > > I'm new to messaging on the list but here go,s. How do you correct the >toe in on the 8A? I have about 3/16s from a straight edge, don't know if >that is too much or not. Thank,s Mark Rose 137MR reserved. > > > > > > Scott Bilinski Eng dept 305 Phone (858) 657-2536 Pager (858) 502-5190 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "RV_8 Pilot" <rv_8pilot(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: IFR & RFIS
Date: Aug 26, 2004
>The only instance when a TSOed unit must be used is in the case of an IFR >GPS. For these installations, the guidance contained in advisory circular >AC 20-138 must be followed. Of course, in order to use the aircraft under >IFR, the transponder, encoder, and pitot/static tests must also be current. How about a transponder? I thought they had to be TSO'd. Bryan ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 28, 2004
From: Doug Ritter <d.d.ritter(at)verizon.net> Santa Monica, Calif(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: "Need Extra Hands" in building a RV-8A QB -
Santa Monica, Calif Calif Hi Garey, Do not despair ! You are not alone. My loving wife has helped but is just nor that interested in aviation so my 8A project has been mostly all self help through a lot of ingenuity, dexterity and sometime gymnastics. It's been two years and I'm just finishing the slow built wings and ready to order the standard fus kit. I'm in a two car garage in Alexandria, VA and wish I could come over because I am from Venice/Santa Monica and used to live down the hill from the west end of the runway by the golf corse. You should have no trouble with the QB. Good luck. > >Greetings: > >Any Builders who live in the Santa Monica, Calif area. >Building a RV-8A QB in my garage 5 minutes from Santa >Monica Airport and "need extra hands". Willing to >help somebody with their project TOO. My wife does >not want to get involved and the local EAA Chapter is >all composite builders. At the rate I am making >progress it will take me 5 life times to complete >!!!!! > >Thanks, > Garey Wittich (310) 392-1682 > > >__________________________________ > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 27, 2004
rv7-list(at)matronics.com, rv10-list(at)matronics.com, rv8-list(at)matronics.com, rv3-list(at)matronics.com, rv4-list(at)matronics.com
From: Richard Scott <rscott(at)cascadeaccess.com>
Subject: Van's Homecoming-- Where to eat
1.70 SUSPICIOUS_RECIPS Similar addresses in recipient list Scrumptous breakfast both Saturday & Sunday will be served right at Van's--pancakes, eggs, ham, sausage, bacon, coffee & orange juice. And lunch on Saturday, burgers, corn on the cob. Served by EAA Chapter 902. Don't miss out! ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "GEORGE INMAN" <ghinman(at)allstream.net>
Subject: F-816 to WD-808 rivets
Date: Sep 01, 2004
When my RV-8 QB arrived, the rivets through the cockpit rail (F-816) to the seatback support (WD-808) were not installed. Is there a reason for this?Does the support have to be removed at some stage? Or can I rivet it at any time? GEORGE H. INMAN ghinman(at)allstream.net CELL 204 799 7062 HOME 204 287 8334 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 01, 2004
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com

From: "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com>
Subject: RE: RV8-List: F-816 to WD-808 rivets Date: Wed, 1 Sep 2004 11:49:41 -0400 George, Ask Vans and let us know. I think they were installed in my QB fuselage, but I got it last year and have done so much work on it I can't tell anymore. The construction manual and plans do not tell the QB builder what has been done and what is left undone and why, so the process is largely one of self discovery. Steve in Vermont RV-6A N227RV flying RV-8 N222SZ under construction -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of GEORGE INMAN Subject: RV8-List: F-816 to WD-808 rivets When my RV-8 QB arrived, the rivets through the cockpit rail (F-816) to the seatback support (WD-808) were not installed. Is there a reason for this?Does the support have to be removed at some stage? Or can I rivet it at any time? GEORGE H. INMAN ghinman(at)allstream.net CELL 204 799 7062 HOME 204 287 8334 advertising on the Matronics Forums. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Schilling Karl <Karl.Schilling(at)ssfhs.org>
Subject: RE:
Date: Sep 01, 2004
It's a lot eaiser to work inside with it out and also so you can paint it. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] Subject: From: "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> Subject: RE: RV8-List: F-816 to WD-808 rivets Date: Wed, 1 Sep 2004 11:49:41 -0400 George, Ask Vans and let us know. I think they were installed in my QB fuselage, but I got it last year and have done so much work on it I can't tell anymore. The construction manual and plans do not tell the QB builder what has been done and what is left undone and why, so the process is largely one of self discovery. Steve in Vermont RV-6A N227RV flying RV-8 N222SZ under construction -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of GEORGE INMAN Subject: RV8-List: F-816 to WD-808 rivets When my RV-8 QB arrived, the rivets through the cockpit rail (F-816) to the seatback support (WD-808) were not installed. Is there a reason for this?Does the support have to be removed at some stage? Or can I rivet it at any time? GEORGE H. INMAN ghinman(at)allstream.net CELL 204 799 7062 HOME 204 287 8334 advertising on the Matronics Forums. __________________________________ The information contained in this email and any accompanying documents is intended for the sole use of the recipient to whom it is addressed, and may contain information that is privileged, confidential, and prohibited from disclosure under applicable law. If you are not the intended recipient, or authorized to receive this on behalf of the recipient, you are hereby notified that any review, use, disclosure, copying, or distribution is prohibited. If you are not the intended recipient(s), please contact the sender by e-mail and destroy all copies of the original message. Thank you. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jack Blomgren" <jackanet(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: -8 IO-360 throttle body & mix cable firewall penetrations,
lengths ??
Date: Sep 02, 2004
8 builders, experts, I've searched archives but don't see answers to my specific questions. First, I'll appreciate your own firewall cable penetration locations, using forward facing Airflow Performace throttle body (using Van's IO/mix cable brackets), to Van's CT 82F throttle quadrent.. Also, please confirm (or dispute) Van's catalog listed 60" cable lenghts as best fit for both cables considering their paths, multiple radii, elevations. [60'' seem to measure long to me] Your experience will give me a head start and the needed confidence to press ahead. Thanks in advance. Jack Blomgren, Minnesota RV Wing ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "DarrenHB" <darren@hartfree-bright.co.uk>
Subject: Superior engine installation
Date: Sep 02, 2004
Authenticated-Sender: Hi all, Has anyone any experience of installing the XP-360 in a 8. Vans have told me that the FWF kit for the lycoming IO-360-MIB is ok except for the throttle/mixture kit where the cable is too short or the bracket won't fix to the composite sump. Has anyone solved this? thanks Darren ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 02, 2004
From: Jim Bean <jim-bean(at)att.net>
Subject: Re: -8 IO-360 throttle body & mix cable firewall penetrations,
lengths ?? I used the catalog stuff and the plans firewall locations and everything fit OK. The only problem is not getting enough throw so as to get BOTH full throttle and idle. This can be fixed by drilling another hole in the throttle body arm so as to effectively shorten it. Jim Bean Jack Blomgren wrote: > > 8 builders, experts, > > I've searched archives but don't see answers to my specific questions. > First, I'll appreciate your own firewall cable penetration locations, using > forward facing Airflow Performace throttle body (using Van's IO/mix cable > brackets), to Van's CT 82F throttle quadrent.. Also, please confirm (or > dispute) Van's catalog listed 60" cable lenghts as best fit for both cables > considering their paths, multiple radii, elevations. [60'' seem to measure > long to me] Your experience will give me a head start and the needed > confidence to press ahead. Thanks in advance. > > Jack Blomgren, Minnesota RV Wing > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dick Jordan" <mkejrj(at)erols.com>
Subject: Re: Superior engine installation
Date: Sep 03, 2004
Darren, I installed the XP 360 with Composite Induction on my 8A. Van's IO 360 THROTTLE/MIX kit ( $95.00) worked well to mount the Mixture hardware but was useless for the Throttle. In order to mount the Throttle Cable I constructed a mounting platform attaching same to the bottom of the composite Sump using the 4 threaded holes provided by Superior. The platform spans the bottom of the sump running from right to left and is attached to the sump with 4 safety wired bolts. I attached a cable termination fitting at the rear of the platform in a position that would provide proper clearance from the sump and exhaust as well as providing proper function of the Throttle hardware. Determining the proper positioning for the termination fitting took several iterations but the end result is , IMHO , quite functional. The Throttle cable runs aft from the termination fitting ,under the Composite Sump,and then angles up to penetrate the firewall with the Mixture and Prop cables through a common penetration fitting. Good luck, Dick Jordan RV 8A Finishing N888BZ (Reserved) ----- Original Message ----- From: "DarrenHB" <darren@hartfree-bright.co.uk> Subject: RV8-List: Superior engine installation > > Hi all, > > Has anyone any experience of installing the XP-360 in a 8. Vans have told > me that the FWF kit for the lycoming IO-360-MIB is ok except for the > throttle/mixture kit where the cable is too short or the bracket won't fix > to the composite sump. Has anyone solved this? > > thanks > > Darren > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jack Blomgren" <jackanet(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Superior engine installation
Date: Sep 03, 2004
Darren, If you haven't yet purchased the Superior you might wish to consider the AeroSport Power IO-360-M2 (180hp). I just installed Van's IO throttle & mixture bracket kit with perfect fit to their aluminum sump. Jack (Your query snipped) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jack Blomgren" <jackanet(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Heat Muff over exhaust joint
Date: Sep 03, 2004
Any history of heat muff(s) placed over (enclosing) joints in Vetterman exhausts? Any detectable CO in the cockpit? Jack ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 05, 2004
From: Land Shorter <landshorter2(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: New product announcement: affordable VG's
rvcanada-list(at)matronics.com, rveurope-list(at)matronics.com, rvsoutheast-list(at)matronics.com, sailplane-list(at)matronics.com, seaplane-list(at)matronics.com, skymaster-list(at)matronics.com, smithmini-list(at)matronics.com Hey folks, I double checked and Matt Dralle's earlier post says it's OK to post about new aviation products as long as the message doesn't come off as having a "flavor" of "traditional spam". Don't worry I'm not going to try to sell you anything that supposedly makes any of your body parts larger (or smaller) and this product is directly aviation related :) I'm just an airplane builder, owner, pilot, and aviation nut who wants to tell you where you can find more information about a great new product. I've been selling kits of vortex generators (VG's) for only $95 and my customers are telling me they really like the performance gains they're seeing. VG's are great for reducing stall speeds and allow you to land slower, shorter, and safer. I invite you to check out my site at www.landshorter.com and see what you think. My VG's can be quickly installed for testing using removable double-stick tape and come with a 100% money-back guarantee so why not try them out on your plane? You'll be really glad you did :) Thanks and let's keep 'em flying! Joa Harrison The VG Guy www.landshorter.com 1-877-272-1414 (toll free) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Doug Ripley" <dougr(at)hurricanefilter.com>
Subject: Rocket Steering Link
Date: Sep 07, 2004
My partner and I have called and emailed Terry Jantzi about buying a steering link, but getting no response. Does anyone know if he is still making these? Are there any options? Thanks! Doug Ripley Alpharetta, GA RV-8 N821DT 50 hours and counting! ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Don Kugler" <donkugler(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Old-style RV8 Wing tips wanted
Date: Sep 08, 2004
I'm looking for a pair of the old-style, original, wing tips for an RV8. If anyone has a set they would like to sell, please contact me off list. -Don RV8 NJ Don Kugler donkugler(at)earthlink.net 908-303-6578 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mark Rose" <av8er2(at)McLeodusa.net>
Subject: Governor Bracket
Date: Sep 11, 2004
Has anyone out there got any ideas on a forward mounted prop governor brackets or cable routing for a IO360C1E6. Van's only bracket is for the rear mounted governor. The governor is a MT from Vans. Thanks Mark Rose 137MR reserved. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 11, 2004
Subject: [ Bob Olds ] : New Email List Photo Share Available!
From: Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com>
A new Email List Photo Share is available: Poster: Bob Olds Subject: Vortex generators on RV-4 http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/Oldsfolks@aol.com.09.11.2004/index.html o Main Photo Share Index http://www.matronics.com/photoshare o Submitting a Photo Share If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the following information along with your email message and files: 1) Email List or Lists that they are related to: 2) Your Full Name: 3) Your Email Address: 4) One line Subject description: 5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic: 6) One-line Description of each photo or file: Email the information above and your files and photos to: pictures(at)matronics.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jacob & Grace" <grizzlybear(at)klondiker.com>
Subject: Cowl Fasteners
Date: Sep 11, 2004
Well I just came in from a shop session and I am ready to heave my cowls as far as I can and fly without them........it could work? I know now why many people do not use the hinges to attach the cowls. The top cowl has to move up and forward to come off. BUT> The hinge is like teeth with don't allow the cowls to move forward, therfore no up! Oh by pushing and forcing it eventually works, but it is an effort. Then, pushing the wire down the hinge is an exercise .... I won't even finish....recall the jokes about alcohol and sex..... the mind might want but the damn thing just bends. So, who has used Southcos or Camlocs and where did you get them? (Boy do I dread drilling off those hinges and separating them from the cowlings.) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Sally and George" <aeronut58(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: RV8-List Digest: 3 Msgs - 09/11/04
Date: Sep 12, 2004
Don't be too discouraged with the hinge attachments. They were put there as a vocabulary builder. They are a real bear to get in and out at first, but after repeated use they become fairly easy. Try putting Bolube on them when inserting, and use a pair of vice-grips to hold the hinge pin about 2 to 3 inches from the first hinge segment, then push and twist and regrip with the vice grips as the pin moves in. After 25 or 30 hours on the airplane, you'll be able to slip them in and out by hand. (Don't forget to provide a positive stop to prevent the horizontal pins from slipping forward into the prop...might spoil your whole day). Having said all of that, many guys have installed cam locks on the top cowl. The vertical hinges on the bottom cowl don't seem to be an issue, and most of the cam lock installations I've seen still have hinges there. Good luck. George Kilishek N888GK finished. Kit #80221 wings. >From: "Jacob & Grace" <grizzlybear(at)klondiker.com> >Subject: RV8-List: Cowl Fasteners > > >Well I just came in from a shop session and I am ready to heave my cowls as >far >as I can and fly without them........it could work? > >I know now why many people do not use the hinges to attach the cowls. The >top >cowl has to move up and forward to come off. BUT> The hinge is like teeth >with >don't allow the cowls to move forward, therfore no up! Oh by pushing and >forcing >it eventually works, but it is an effort. Then, pushing the wire down the >hinge is an exercise .... I won't even finish....recall the jokes about >alcohol >and sex..... the mind might want but the damn thing just bends. > >So, who has used Southcos or Camlocs and where did you get them? (Boy do I >dread >drilling off those hinges and separating them from the cowlings.) > > http://search.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200636ave/direct/01/ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Tom Scherder" <tomscherder(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Cowl Fasteners
Date: Sep 13, 2004
Camlocks are the answer!! Just leave the hinges in place and use half of the hinge to attach your camlocks(available in any length at aircraft spruce) This has worked very well for me and remember you will have your cowl off a thousand times during your first several flights to check everything. I have also attached a piece of skin type aluminum strip to the rear edge of the top cowl to smooth and strengthen the edge. Works real well. The piano hinges work well on the sides of the lower cowl because you can get to them easily, but to join the two cowl parts together use the camlocks. Tom Scherder RV 8 N38NE Flying ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jacob & Grace" <grizzlybear(at)klondiker.com> Subject: RV8-List: Cowl Fasteners > > Well I just came in from a shop session and I am ready to heave my cowls as far as I can and fly without them........it could work? > > I know now why many people do not use the hinges to attach the cowls. The top cowl has to move up and forward to come off. BUT> The hinge is like teeth with don't allow the cowls to move forward, therfore no up! Oh by pushing and forcing it eventually works, but it is an effort. Then, pushing the wire down the hinge is an exercise .... I won't even finish....recall the jokes about alcohol and sex..... the mind might want but the damn thing just bends. > > So, who has used Southcos or Camlocs and where did you get them? (Boy do I dread drilling off those hinges and separating them from the cowlings.) > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Al Grajek" <algrajek(at)msn.com>
vansairforce(at)yahoogroups.com
Subject: VAL AVionics INS422
Date: Sep 14, 2004
Has anyboby had any experience with the INS 422 Nav? It has VOR/LOC, Glige slope and Marker beacons all in aone 3"unit. I am looking for a low cost way to go IFR. Any other suggestions? Thanks Al Grajek RV8A ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jerry Grimmonpre" <jerry(at)mc.net>
Subject: Re: Cowl Fasteners
Date: Sep 14, 2004
Tom ... Do you have pictures of the strip you attached to the top, rear edge of the top cowl? If not, can you expand on the installation info such as, how wide front to rear and how long left to right? Thanks ... Jerry Grimmonpre 7A QB >I have > also attached a piece of skin type aluminum strip to the rear edge of the > top cowl to smooth and strengthen the edge. Works real well. > Tom Scherder > RV 8 N38NE Flying ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Lenleg(at)aol.com
Date: Sep 14, 2004
Subject: Re: VAL AVionics INS422
In a message dated 9/14/2004 10:13:40 AM Eastern Standard Time, algrajek(at)msn.com writes: > Has anyboby had any experience with the INS 422 Nav? It has VOR/LOC, Glige > slope and Marker beacons all in aone 3"unit. I am looking for a low cost way > > to go IFR. Any other suggestions? > Thanks > Al Grajek > RV8A > Al: I put it in my 8A ... have not used it at all .... might be willing to sell it. Len Leggette, RV-8A Greensboro, NC N910LL 272 hrs ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Al Grajek" <algrajek(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: VAL AVionics INS422
Date: Sep 14, 2004
I am interested in buying it from you. Why haven't you used it? Have you tried it at all? Al Grajek >From: Lenleg(at)aol.com >Reply-To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com >To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: Re: RV8-List: VAL AVionics INS422 >Date: Tue, 14 Sep 2004 11:03:39 EDT > > >In a message dated 9/14/2004 10:13:40 AM Eastern Standard Time, >algrajek(at)msn.com writes: > > > Has anyboby had any experience with the INS 422 Nav? It has VOR/LOC, >Glige > > slope and Marker beacons all in aone 3"unit. I am looking for a low cost >way > > > > to go IFR. Any other suggestions? > > Thanks > > Al Grajek > > RV8A > > > >Al: > >I put it in my 8A ... have not used it at all .... might be willing to sell >it. > >Len Leggette, RV-8A >Greensboro, NC N910LL >272 hrs > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Eric Parlow" <ericparlow(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: [SoCAL-RVlist] Reno news, For those interested.
Date: Sep 14, 2004
I'll be at Reno Sat & Sun. Are there any activities planned for the RV builders/owners? ERic-- RV8 wings (828) 777-7976 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 14, 2004
From: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com> interested.
Subject: Re: RE: [SoCAL-RVlist] Reno news, For those
interested. interested. I have not heard a word, although Bill VonDanes web page has a list of people that are going. http://vondane.com/trips/reno2004/index.htm > > >I'll be at Reno Sat & Sun. >Are there any activities planned for the RV builders/owners? > >ERic-- >RV8 wings >(828) 777-7976 > > Scott Bilinski Eng dept 305 Phone (858) 657-2536 Pager (858) 502-5190 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Lenleg(at)aol.com
Date: Sep 15, 2004
Subject: Re: VAL AVionics INS422
In a message dated 9/14/2004 1:37:27 PM Eastern Standard Time, algrajek(at)msn.com writes: > I am interested in buying it from you. Why haven't you used it? Have you > tried it at all? > Al Grajek > Thought I would immediately be flying IFR ... I don't have my ticket. I also put the VOR /GS antenna in the wingtip which does not pick up very well. If I get my ticket I will have to make changes in antennas , etc. .... Len ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "GEORGE INMAN" <ghinman(at)allstream.net>
Subject: Fap hinge pin obstructs aileron bracket
Date: Sep 15, 2004
On page 7-11 of the Construction Manual It says to insert the flap hinge pin through a hole in the inboard aileron mount (W-813) I have trouble with this,because the aileron mount (A-407) hits the hinge pin.Preventing full travel of the aileron. This is worse on one side than the other. I can still insert the hinge pin,but will have to cut it off at the hinge ,and then use a safety wire to hold it in place. GEORGE H. INMAN ghinman(at)allstream.net CELL 204 799 7062 HOME 204 287 8334 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 15, 2004
From: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch>
Subject: Re: Fap hinge pin obstructs aileron bracket
Hi, I thought mine would hit too, but it doesn't, it comes real close. Have you put on the aileron stops to limit the travel yet? It could be once you have done this, then it won't hit. Mickey > I have trouble with this,because the aileron > mount (A-407) hits the hinge pin.Preventing full > travel of the aileron. -- Mickey Coggins http://www.rv8.ch/ #82007 QB Wings/Fuselage ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Al Grajek" <algrajek(at)msn.com>
Subject: Fap hinge pin obstructs aileron bracket
Date: Sep 15, 2004
Thats actually the way I did it, Also Al Grajek RV8A 65 hrs. >From: "GEORGE INMAN" <ghinman(at)allstream.net> >Reply-To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com >To: "AT MATRONICS RV8-LIST" >Subject: RV8-List: Fap hinge pin obstructs aileron bracket >Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2004 14:36:43 -0500 > > > On page 7-11 of the Construction Manual > It says to insert the flap hinge pin through a hole > in the inboard aileron mount (W-813) > I have trouble with this,because the aileron > mount (A-407) hits the hinge pin.Preventing full > travel of the aileron. > This is worse on one side than the other. > I can still insert the hinge pin,but will have to cut it > off at the hinge ,and then use a safety wire to hold it > in place. > > >GEORGE H. INMAN >ghinman(at)allstream.net >CELL 204 799 7062 >HOME 204 287 8334 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Doug Ripley" <dougr(at)hurricanefilter.com>
Subject: Re: Fap hinge pin obstructs aileron bracket
Date: Sep 15, 2004
You're supposed to drill a hole in the inboard aileron mount that is slightly off-center of the hinge line (mine is about 1/4"), and when the hinge wire is all the way in BEYOND the aileron hinge, it retains it so it won't come back out. I can send you some pictures if you want, but it would be a few days before I can get them for you. ----- Original Message ----- From: "GEORGE INMAN" <ghinman(at)allstream.net> Subject: RV8-List: Fap hinge pin obstructs aileron bracket > > On page 7-11 of the Construction Manual > It says to insert the flap hinge pin through a hole > in the inboard aileron mount (W-813) > I have trouble with this,because the aileron > mount (A-407) hits the hinge pin.Preventing full > travel of the aileron. > This is worse on one side than the other. > I can still insert the hinge pin,but will have to cut it > off at the hinge ,and then use a safety wire to hold it > in place. > > > GEORGE H. INMAN > ghinman(at)allstream.net > CELL 204 799 7062 > HOME 204 287 8334 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com>
Subject: Fap hinge pin obstructs aileron bracket
Date: Sep 15, 2004
Well, The best solution that I've seen is to not even fiddle with the aileron mount at all. Simply remove an eye in the middle of the hinge, put two small loops on the end of the now 2 segments of flap hinge rod and safety them together. No fiddling with aileron hing brackets, no mess trying to safety the thing at the end, etc.. This is the way I've seen a lot of these done (including both my RV's) and it's really slick. It's also pretty easy and fast to remove two shorter hinge pins than one long one through the aileron bracket. Just my 2 cents! Cheers, Stein Bruch -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of GEORGE INMAN Subject: RV8-List: Fap hinge pin obstructs aileron bracket On page 7-11 of the Construction Manual It says to insert the flap hinge pin through a hole in the inboard aileron mount (W-813) I have trouble with this,because the aileron mount (A-407) hits the hinge pin.Preventing full travel of the aileron. This is worse on one side than the other. I can still insert the hinge pin,but will have to cut it off at the hinge ,and then use a safety wire to hold it in place. GEORGE H. INMAN ghinman(at)allstream.net CELL 204 799 7062 HOME 204 287 8334 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Steve Glasgow" <willfly(at)carolina.rr.com>
Subject: Specks in the Fuel!
Date: Sep 16, 2004
About 6 months ago specks in the fuel started to show up. During preflight when the aircraft had set for some time, when I drain fuel from under the wing I find some brown or blackish specks floating in the fuel. It takes about 6 ounces of draining to clear up the specks. I don't think it is from the fuel truck. Has anyone experienced something similar? Could it be the tanks sealer is dissolving? I have a QB RV8, 10 months since first flight with 140 hours total. Thanks, Steve Glasgow ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Doug Ripley" <dougr(at)hurricanefilter.com>
Subject: Re: Specks in the Fuel!
Date: Sep 16, 2004
Steve, my -8 has been flying for about 50 hours now, and the same thing is happening. Looks like Proseal. I built my tanks, not QB. I'm guessing that fuel sloshing around has worked some small pieces loose, maybe from places where it was real thin over the surface of the skin? I recently drained all of the fuel out through a filter to flush the tanks because these little pieces of crap get into the fuel drain and make it drip. I'm not too worried, surely it will stop eventually. I'm interested to see if others have had this same problem. Doug Ripley N821DT ----- Original Message ----- From: "Steve Glasgow" <willfly(at)carolina.rr.com> Subject: RV8-List: Specks in the Fuel! > > About 6 months ago specks in the fuel started to show up. > > During preflight when the aircraft had set for some time, when I drain fuel > from under the wing I find some brown or blackish specks floating in the > fuel. It takes about 6 ounces of draining to clear up the specks. I don't > think it is from the fuel truck. > > Has anyone experienced something similar? Could it be the tanks sealer is > dissolving? > > I have a QB RV8, 10 months since first flight with 140 hours total. > > Thanks, > Steve Glasgow > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 16, 2004
From: N414C <N414C(at)direcway.com>
Subject: Re: Specks in the Fuel!
Steve, I have an F1 Rocket. At about 1 year old and 150 hrs I lost power in flight damn near killed myself and a friend. Wasn't getting anything visible in the fuel but the strainer going into the throttle body was clogged with something. This was distal to the filters and selector valve. My suspicion is it was sometype of preservative or sealant that dissolved to some extent. No problems since. Milt ----- Original Message ----- From: Steve Glasgow To: RV8-List Digest Server Sent: Thursday, September 16, 2004 7:19 AM Subject: RV8-List: Specks in the Fuel! About 6 months ago specks in the fuel started to show up. During preflight when the aircraft had set for some time, when I drain fuel from under the wing I find some brown or blackish specks floating in the fuel. It takes about 6 ounces of draining to clear up the specks. I don't think it is from the fuel truck. Has anyone experienced something similar? Could it be the tanks sealer is dissolving? I have a QB RV8, 10 months since first flight with 140 hours total. Thanks, Steve Glasgow ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RVEIGHTA(at)aol.com
Date: Sep 16, 2004
Subject: Rear passenger heat/wingtips
Guys, my partner and I are looking at putting a heat duct from a seperate heat muff back to the rear seat area. Anyone done this? Any other ideas about getting a heat source back there? Also, sometime back I posted a query about van's airtech wingtip lens kits and got several helpful answers. On going back through my pictures of Oshkosh, I noticed a red, white & blue RV8 which had exactly what I want. Unfortunately I don't have the N number in the pics, but the wing is blue from the leading edge back past the wingtip lens then white to the trailing edge, with two red stripes slightly aft of where the white begins. Could the owner of this plane contact me as to where he got the lens kit? Thanks, Walt Shipley RV8A 120 hrs. RV8 fuselage ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Sims, Doug" <Doug.Sims(at)danahermotion.com>
Subject: Fap hinge pin obstructs aileron bracket
Date: Sep 16, 2004
Folks, I have a Vans wiring harness with the Vans power distribution bar mounted in front of the panel per Vans plans. I need to ground my radios and wonder whether i should use the same ground point as the instruments, drill a separate ground bolt on the same brace or run a separate ground to the firewall or block. Any help would be appreciated. Doug RV8QB -----Original Message----- From: Al Grajek [mailto:algrajek(at)msn.com] Subject: RE: RV8-List: Fap hinge pin obstructs aileron bracket Thats actually the way I did it, Also Al Grajek RV8A 65 hrs. >From: "GEORGE INMAN" <ghinman(at)allstream.net> >Reply-To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com >To: "AT MATRONICS RV8-LIST" >Subject: RV8-List: Fap hinge pin obstructs aileron bracket >Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2004 14:36:43 -0500 > > > On page 7-11 of the Construction Manual > It says to insert the flap hinge pin through a hole > in the inboard aileron mount (W-813) > I have trouble with this,because the aileron > mount (A-407) hits the hinge pin.Preventing full > travel of the aileron. > This is worse on one side than the other. > I can still insert the hinge pin,but will have to cut it > off at the hinge ,and then use a safety wire to hold it > in place. > > >GEORGE H. INMAN >ghinman(at)allstream.net >CELL 204 799 7062 >HOME 204 287 8334 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 16, 2004
From: RV8ter(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: Rear passenger heat/wingtips
seal up the big holes like the aileron push rods, the rear stick boot and then install a removable car seat heater pad that plugs into a 12 Socket. You'll want one yourself. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: UALPILOT3(at)aol.com
Date: Sep 16, 2004
Subject: Re: Rear passenger heat/wingtips
Walt, The red white and blue RV-8 was mine. The wingtip lights came from RMD Lighting. Talk to Bob DeBorde at 503-628-6056. It is a really good add on light system. If you have any questions, call me at 210-658-2999. Les Bourne N393LS ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Doug Ripley" <dougr(at)hurricanefilter.com>
Subject: Ground-loop
Date: Sep 17, 2004
I have a lengthy story and a question, grab a cup of coffee, or just delete if you don't have time...... RV-8 serial # 81905, N821DT flew the first time August 14th this year. I built it in a partnership. We have IO-360 180hp, Hartzell constant speed, empty weight is 1134# with paint. We operate out of a grass strip. The restriction was flown off in under two weeks. On the day I took my first passenger, I almost lost it landing on hard surface. It was a calm day. Rolling out after landing, at about 20 mph (guessing), it took a left, and rudder alone wouldn't bring it back, it took a jab on the brakes to straighten it up. This freaked me out, because for about 1 second, I felt out of control. My passenger said that all he felt was a swerve, but he wasn't the one that gave the rudder input with no response. I really thought hard about what might have gone wrong, and finally determined that I must have been behind the airplane for a moment, and decided that it was a "wake-up call". On Saturday, September 11th, I was riding with my partner, another calm day, landing on hard surface. He did a beautiful wheel landing, tail came down, stick all the way back, and everything was going perfectly. He was on the centerline, and keeping the airplane perfectly straight. At about 20 mph, it took a hard right, followed by IMMEDIATE left rudder, FULL DEFLECTION. The airplane did not respond at all, it was like it was on rails taking it off the runway. This runway was not as wide as the one I was on, the airplane left the runway. All would have been fine, except for the 4' deep ditch 20' to the side of the runway. Left gear dug in the mud, airplane tipped up, got the prop, spinner, and bent the fuselage up (left skin, gear box, belly skin) forward of the spar. We've had a week to grieve, cry, cuss, kick the cat, etc. as well as think about what happened. I think I've concluded that he did nothing wrong. Left brake input early in the event might have straightened it out, but that's not the point I'm getting to here. What happened in these two events is not right! Our gear alignment is correct per Van's procedures in the manual....no toe-in or toe-out. My partner has about 1,200 hours, and recent, sufficient tailwheel time to be qualified to fly the -8. I have about 1,300 hours, 600 of which is tailwheel. 350 hours in a Midget Mustang that I built, the rest is mixed up in many different models, including Pitts, Skybolt, AcroSport, and Thorp T-18. I'll take my beatings for mistakes and/or complacency. In fact, I've ground-looped before due to cranial-rectal inversion. BUT......In all the 600 hours of tailwheel flying I've done, I NEVER remember feeling so out of control of the airplane. In a "squirrelly" airplane like the Thorp or Pitts, it will dance around, but I always felt like I had sufficient control of the aircraft, and over-controlling was the worst enemy. The RV has a reputation for being a docile yet responsive taildragger. I never would have expected either of these two events to happen. Since last Saturday I spoke with another gentleman that ground-looped his -8. He has about 400 hours tailwheel, most of which is Acrosport time, and about 5 or more recent hours in the -8 he just purchased. He blamed tailwheel currency and cross-wind as the contributing factors. Look at Randy Lervold's website. How much time did he have in his -8? 200 hours? He says the crosswind was the culprit. I believe that ANYONE can ground-loop, but someone with 200 recent hours in type should be able to handle the crosswind that he spoke about. It might not be pretty, but the RV should have enough rudder response that a qualified pilot such as Randy or the other gentleman I mention can keep it out of the ditches. This brings me to my question for all of you -8 flyers.....Have any of you ever had a "near miss" like this, where the airplane tried to depart the runway with little or no response to rudder input? Have you ever felt like the airplane was flying you? Here is why I ask........There are 439 RV-8(A)'s flying, not sure how many are tailwheel. Compare that to the -4 and -6. I want to know what the ground accident ratio is when comparing the -4 and -6 to the -8. I believe that there might be something to the geometry of the two-piece spring steel gear that sets the -8 apart from the rest. Maybe when there is a side-load there is an aggravated situation? My Midget Mustang had spring steel gear that attached to the spar in the wings. When I first set up the gear, it had a very slight toe-out. The ground handling was very easy, it tracked perfectly and very docile. However, the toe-out caused the gear to spread a little when taxiing, so I adjusted the alignment shims one bolt-hole, which resulted in a very slight toe-in. I couldn't get the airplane above 20 mph and keep it on the runway!!! One wheel would grab causing the airplane to swerve, which shifted more weight onto that wheel, aggravating the situation. Rudder and brake would correct it, but then the other wheel would grab. What a mess. It actually bruised my shoulders from banging me up against the side of the cockpit. It was very violent. I used a belt sander to make the wheels aligned perfectly, then all was ok, and it was a relatively docile taildragger. It would occasionally try to change directions, but the rudder was incredibly responsive, and the airplane was controllable, which is to be expected with any high performance airplane like the Pitts, Thorp, and RV. Thanks for reading, and thanks in advance for responses. All of you may help me determine that I'm just getting old, stubborn, or cocky, and I need to keep my head out of my ass. I'm only 36, so we can eliminate one of those factors! :>) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Paul Schattauer" <chasm711(at)msn.com>
Subject: Ground-loop
Date: Sep 17, 2004
Doug I'm truly sorry to hear about your mishap. The good news is no one was hurt and Vans' parts are relatively inexpensive. As you know a hard surfaced runway is much much less forgiving of any misalignment during landing. Both misalignment of the aircraft to the runway or the gear with reference to the aircraft. I really have no idea what caused your adventures but let me relate my own. I also have an RV 8 and lot of tail wheel time. When I built my 8 I was extra careful to align the gear per instructions. During the first fifty hours (almost all hard surface) my landings were squirrelly, dang thing would dart unpredictably to either side or sometimes not at all. I would not land on narrow runways and avoided cross winds. I took the wheel fairings off at fifty hours for some brake work and both tires were badly worn on the outside edge, one worse than the other. I rechecked the alignment and both had a lot of toe in. I shimmed the axels and rebuilt the wheel pants (that's how far out they were). Tire wear in the last 100 hours is barely detectable and the squirrels are gone. I won't say it's on rails but it's perfectly controllable and comfortable to land. Paul >From: "Doug Ripley" <dougr(at)hurricanefilter.com> >Reply-To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com >To: "RV8-List Digest Server" >Subject: RV8-List: Ground-loop >Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2004 09:44:36 -0400 > > >I have a lengthy story and a question, grab a cup of coffee, or just delete >if you don't have time...... > >RV-8 serial # 81905, N821DT flew the first time August 14th this year. I >built it in a partnership. We have IO-360 180hp, Hartzell constant speed, >empty weight is 1134# with paint. We operate out of a grass strip. The >restriction was flown off in under two weeks. On the day I took my first >passenger, I almost lost it landing on hard surface. It was a calm day. >Rolling out after landing, at about 20 mph (guessing), it took a left, and >rudder alone wouldn't bring it back, it took a jab on the brakes to >straighten it up. This freaked me out, because for about 1 second, I felt >out of control. My passenger said that all he felt was a swerve, but he >wasn't the one that gave the rudder input with no response. I really >thought hard about what might have gone wrong, and finally determined that >I must have been behind the airplane for a moment, and decided that it was >a "wake-up call". > >On Saturday, September 11th, I was riding with my partner, another calm >day, landing on hard surface. He did a beautiful wheel landing, tail came >down, stick all the way back, and everything was going perfectly. He was >on the centerline, and keeping the airplane perfectly straight. At about >20 mph, it took a hard right, followed by IMMEDIATE left rudder, FULL >DEFLECTION. The airplane did not respond at all, it was like it was on >rails taking it off the runway. This runway was not as wide as the one I >was on, the airplane left the runway. All would have been fine, except for >the 4' deep ditch 20' to the side of the runway. Left gear dug in the mud, >airplane tipped up, got the prop, spinner, and bent the fuselage up (left >skin, gear box, belly skin) forward of the spar. > >We've had a week to grieve, cry, cuss, kick the cat, etc. as well as think >about what happened. I think I've concluded that he did nothing wrong. >Left brake input early in the event might have straightened it out, but >that's not the point I'm getting to here. What happened in these two >events is not right! > >Our gear alignment is correct per Van's procedures in the manual....no >toe-in or toe-out. My partner has about 1,200 hours, and recent, >sufficient tailwheel time to be qualified to fly the -8. I have about >1,300 hours, 600 of which is tailwheel. 350 hours in a Midget Mustang that >I built, the rest is mixed up in many different models, including Pitts, >Skybolt, AcroSport, and Thorp T-18. I'll take my beatings for mistakes >and/or complacency. In fact, I've ground-looped before due to >cranial-rectal inversion. BUT......In all the 600 hours of tailwheel >flying I've done, I NEVER remember feeling so out of control of the >airplane. In a "squirrelly" airplane like the Thorp or Pitts, it will >dance around, but I always felt like I had sufficient control of the >aircraft, and over-controlling was the worst enemy. > >The RV has a reputation for being a docile yet responsive taildragger. I >never would have expected either of these two events to happen. Since last >Saturday I spoke with another gentleman that ground-looped his -8. He has >about 400 hours tailwheel, most of which is Acrosport time, and about 5 or >more recent hours in the -8 he just purchased. He blamed tailwheel >currency and cross-wind as the contributing factors. Look at Randy >Lervold's website. How much time did he have in his -8? 200 hours? He >says the crosswind was the culprit. I believe that ANYONE can ground-loop, >but someone with 200 recent hours in type should be able to handle the >crosswind that he spoke about. It might not be pretty, but the RV should >have enough rudder response that a qualified pilot such as Randy or the >other gentleman I mention can keep it out of the ditches. > >This brings me to my question for all of you -8 flyers.....Have any of you >ever had a "near miss" like this, where the airplane tried to depart the >runway with little or no response to rudder input? Have you ever felt like >the airplane was flying you? > >Here is why I ask........There are 439 RV-8(A)'s flying, not sure how many >are tailwheel. Compare that to the -4 and -6. I want to know what the >ground accident ratio is when comparing the -4 and -6 to the -8. I believe >that there might be something to the geometry of the two-piece spring steel >gear that sets the -8 apart from the rest. Maybe when there is a side-load >there is an aggravated situation? > >My Midget Mustang had spring steel gear that attached to the spar in the >wings. When I first set up the gear, it had a very slight toe-out. The >ground handling was very easy, it tracked perfectly and very docile. >However, the toe-out caused the gear to spread a little when taxiing, so I >adjusted the alignment shims one bolt-hole, which resulted in a very slight >toe-in. I couldn't get the airplane above 20 mph and keep it on the >runway!!! One wheel would grab causing the airplane to swerve, which >shifted more weight onto that wheel, aggravating the situation. Rudder and >brake would correct it, but then the other wheel would grab. What a mess. >It actually bruised my shoulders from banging me up against the side of the >cockpit. It was very violent. I used a belt sander to make the wheels >aligned perfectly, then all was ok, and it was a relatively docile >taildragger. It would occasionally try to change directions, but the >rudder was incredibly responsive, and the airp! >lane was controllable, which is to be expected with any high performance >airplane like the Pitts, Thorp, and RV. > >Thanks for reading, and thanks in advance for responses. All of you may >help me determine that I'm just getting old, stubborn, or cocky, and I need >to keep my head out of my ass. I'm only 36, so we can eliminate one of >those factors! :>) > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "RV_8 Pilot" <rv_8pilot(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Ground-loop
Date: Sep 17, 2004
Sorry for your problems/damage. Good luck getting things back together. I've got about 650 hrs on my -8 and have had very few "swervy" events and nothing scary (leaving the runway). IMO, the -8 is a very solid performing tailwheel plane. But even good pilots sometimes get the tail ahead of the nose. I believe I remember hearing Chuck Yeager g'looped a T-6 a year or two ago. As for my background - I've got about 1850 total, 850 tailwheel and 1 no-damage ground-loop (C-170). The RV's are well above average performers on the ground in my experience. Check your wheel alignment, brake performance and tailwheel assy. Maybe something there isn't as it should be. Maybe it was just your time. :( Bryan Jones -8 >I have a lengthy story and a question, grab a cup of coffee, or just delete >if you don't have time...... > >RV-8 serial # 81905, N821DT flew the first time August 14th this year. I >built it in a partnership. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 17, 2004
From: <jonweisw(at)rcn.com>
Subject: Re: Ground-loop
Doug- So sorry to hear of your mishap. Is the damage repairable? Is your engine now in need of a tear-down? Out of curiosity, is it possible that there was an added effect of having a passenger on some previously undetected misalignment? It reads from your story that this happened on the first two flights with a passenger, and I wonder if it is related to having weight back there. As I am nearing the end of my 40h test period, perhaps I should try landing my -8 with some ballast in the passenger seat to test for this. Regards, Jon Weiswasser N898JW, 23h ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Doug Ripley" <dougr(at)hurricanefilter.com>
Subject: Re: Ground-loop
Date: Sep 17, 2004
Thanks to everyone for the condolences. Lots of good comments and questions, a couple of them were not posted. After more thought on the subject and a few phone conversations, I think the problem points to gear alignment, and weight, along with "the pilot's inability to maintain directional control"....in both cases. One thing to add.....there were black marks on the runway where we left it. The left wheel mark was much darker than the right, indicating that the left wheel was grabbing more than the right. Does it seem obvious that, if the left wheel was grabbing more pavement than the right, and the airplane was still going to the right, that the orientation of the left wheel on the pavement was pushing us to the right? Engine will be completely torn down and inspected. The prop strike was in mud, and "strike" is a harsh word.....one blade is bent backwards a little, it wasn't really sudden stoppage. But.....it was a brand new Mattituck engine, and I don't want to take chances, and want to maintain the value of the aircraft / engine. ----- Original Message ----- From: <jonweisw(at)rcn.com> Subject: Re: RV8-List: Ground-loop > > Doug- > So sorry to hear of your mishap. Is the damage repairable? Is > your engine now in need of a tear-down? > > Out of curiosity, is it possible that there was an added > effect of having a passenger on some previously undetected > misalignment? It reads from your story that this happened on > the first two flights with a passenger, and I wonder if it is > related to having weight back there. As I am nearing the end > of my 40h test period, perhaps I should try landing my -8 > with some ballast in the passenger seat to test for this. > > Regards, > Jon Weiswasser > N898JW, 23h > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Speedy11(at)aol.com
Date: Sep 17, 2004
Subject: Re: RV8-List Digest: 7 Msgs - 09/16/04
In a message dated 9/17/2004 2:58:27 AM Eastern Standard Time, rv8-list-digest(at)matronics.com writes: The red white and blue RV-8 was mine. The wingtip lights came from RMD Lighting. Talk to Bob DeBorde at 503-628-6056. It is a really good add on light system. Walt, I also highly recommend RMD. They have gone out of their way to help me and they have an excellent product. I bought a 12 v heater for the RCP. It produces about 200 W of heat. I don't have it here but next time I go to the shop I can get the info for you. I ordered over the net and the cost with shipping was only $15 or so. So, even if you don't like the idea, there's not a lot of money sunk in it. Stan Sutterfield RV-8A www.rv-8a.net ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 17, 2004
From: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch>
Subject: Re: Ground-loop
Hi Doug, I'm also sorry to hear about the damage to your aircraft. I thank you very much for sharing the experience with us in hopes that we can all learn from it. In that vein... I have a few quick questions: 1) are you using the standard Van's chains on the tailwheel? 2) ... gear legs? 3) ... tires? I witnessed a nasty ground loop at SNF this year in a beautiful warbird. The wind shifted violently during his rollout, and there really was nothing he could do. He fought valiantly to keep the aircraft under control, but mother nature won that battle. It can happen, and if I can learn to minimize the risk I'll be happy. Thanks, Mickey -- Mickey Coggins http://www.rv8.ch/ #82007 QB Wings/Fuselage ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 22, 2004
From: "Jim.Truitt(at)usdoj.gov" <Jim.Truitt(at)usdoj.gov>
Subject: RV8-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 09/21/04 -Reply
(Receipt Notification Requested) I have been temporarily assigned to a new task force in Indianapolis effective September 22, 2004. All of my fugitive cases have been reassigned to other task force members. If you need to contact the officer assigned to a case, contact Jim Enea at (317) 226-7116 (office) or (317) 281-7502 (cell). For contact concerning a new fugitive case, or collateral leads, contact Supervisor Tom Cassels at (317) 226-6059 or Brian Aldridge at (317) 226-0255. I will check my email and voice mail periodically during this period, or I can be contacted at (317) 281-7503. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 23, 2004
From: "Jim.Truitt(at)usdoj.gov" <Jim.Truitt(at)usdoj.gov>
Subject: RV8-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 09/22/04 -Reply
(Receipt Notification Requested) I have been temporarily assigned to a new task force in Indianapolis effective September 22, 2004. All of my fugitive cases have been reassigned to other task force members. If you need to contact the officer assigned to a case, contact Jim Enea at (317) 226-7116 (office) or (317) 281-7502 (cell). For contact concerning a new fugitive case, or collateral leads, contact Supervisor Tom Cassels at (317) 226-6059 or Brian Aldridge at (317) 226-0255. I will check my email and voice mail periodically during this period, or I can be contacted at (317) 281-7503. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 24, 2004
From: "Jim.Truitt(at)usdoj.gov" <Jim.Truitt(at)usdoj.gov>
Subject: RV8-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 09/23/04 -Reply
(Receipt Notification Requested) I have been temporarily assigned to a new task force in Indianapolis effective September 22, 2004. All of my fugitive cases have been reassigned to other task force members. If you need to contact the officer assigned to a case, contact Jim Enea at (317) 226-7116 (office) or (317) 281-7502 (cell). For contact concerning a new fugitive case, or collateral leads, contact Supervisor Tom Cassels at (317) 226-6059 or Brian Aldridge at (317) 226-0255. I will check my email and voice mail periodically during this period, or I can be contacted at (317) 281-7503. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 24, 2004
From: jim & terri truitt <jimteri1(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Apology
I apologize to the list for my work message pinging back to the various lists. I activated an automatic return message to my incoming email at work and didn't think the lists would accept the return message. I have done this in the past and didn't have this happen. Oh well. Yeah, I'm computer savvy. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Maureen & Bob Christensen" <mchriste(at)danvilletelco.net>
Subject: Sam James Plenum and Wheel Pants
Date: Sep 24, 2004
Has anyone used the Sam James Plenum with Van's cowl . . . you have to cut and glass the rings into the cowl to fit the plenum . Sam says it's pretty easy to do and will yield about 7 mph gain! He also mentioned his wheel pants are more efficient than Van's . . . what is the group's experience with them? I have no experience with fiberglass but am about to get some! Regards, Bob Christensen RV-8 Builder SE Iowa ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: silencer
From: romeo.victor@t-online.de (SS)
Date: Sep 25, 2004
Dear RV builders, I just completed my silencers and the noise measuring procedure for my RV8. Silencers had been built by myself, noise tests had been performed by MT in Straubing. The silencers are similar to certified silencers here in Germany. Sometimes the installation causes increased cylinder temperatures. For the moment, I can't acknowledge this in my case. My temperatures vary between 310-330=B0F, the oil temperature is steady at 195=B0F. With the installed MT propeller MTV175B59, the noise level during go around (Vy 95 KIAS, full power, RPM 2500) is 65 dBa (ICAO). This is below the limiting value for my plane, however above the maximum value for the low noise category. Best regards -- D-EBRV 80303 Stephan J.W. Servatius Untere Hauptstr. 3 D-85461 Bockhorn Tel. +49-(0)8122-4 83 83 Fax. +49-(0)8122-902 188 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 26, 2004
From: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch>
Subject: Re: silencer
Hi, Here is a picture of Stephan's silencers: http://rv8.ch/gallery/view_photo.php?set_albumName=Hoganas2004&id=DSC01768 I can tell you from first hand experience, they are quiet! Mickey >... I'd really like to see these. Do you have a >sound clip taken during flight? It would be sweet music to ones ear to >hear that. > > >> >> I just completed my silencers and the noise measuring procedure for >> my RV8. Silencers >> had been built by myself, noise tests had been performed by MT in >> Straubing. -- Mickey Coggins http://www.rv8.ch/ #82007 QB Wings/Fuselage ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Sally and George" <aeronut58(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Jigs: Have one, need one
Date: Sep 26, 2004
Does anyone in the Dalla, TX area have an -8 fuselage jig they are nearly finished with? I'll need one about the end of November. I have a beautiful RV wing jig, made of welded structural steel, which has built numerous RVs I'll be finished with it about the end of November. George Kilishek ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 27, 2004
From: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
Subject: Re: silencer
An electronic ignition will quiet down the exhaust noise by burning ALL the mixture in the combustion chamber where it belongs. I have dual electronic ignition and no mufflers, my plane is quieter than those with mufflers. > >Dear RV builders, > >I just completed my silencers and the noise measuring procedure for my >RV8. Silencers had been built by myself, noise tests had been performed by >MT in Straubing. > >The silencers are similar to certified silencers here in Germany. >Sometimes the installation causes increased cylinder temperatures. For the >moment, I can't acknowledge this in my case. My temperatures vary between >310-330=B0F, the oil temperature is steady at 195=B0F. > >With the installed MT propeller MTV175B59, the noise level during go >around (Vy 95 KIAS, full power, RPM 2500) is 65 dBa (ICAO). This is below >the limiting value for my plane, however above the maximum value for the >low noise category. > >Best regards > > >-- >D-EBRV >80303 >Stephan J.W. Servatius >Untere Hauptstr. 3 >D-85461 Bockhorn >Tel. +49-(0)8122-4 83 83 >Fax. +49-(0)8122-902 188 > > Scott Bilinski Eng dept 305 Phone (858) 657-2536 Pager (858) 502-5190 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 27, 2004
From: RV8ter(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: silencer
I've never heard that theory though it sounds plausable. But I have lots of time in different RVs with and W/O electronic ignition and sad to say I've never noticed a difference... :-( In a message dated 9/27/2004 9:18:05 AM Eastern Daylight Time, Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com> writes: > >An electronic ignition will quiet down the exhaust noise by burning ALL the >mixture in the combustion chamber where it belongs. I have dual electronic >ignition and no mufflers, my plane is quieter than those with mufflers. > > >> >>Dear RV builders, >> >>I just completed my silencers and the noise measuring procedure for my >>RV8. Silencers had been built by myself, noise tests had been performed by >>MT in Straubing. >> >>The silencers are similar to certified silencers here in Germany. >>Sometimes the installation causes increased cylinder temperatures. For the >>moment, I can't acknowledge this in my case. My temperatures vary between >>310-330=B0F, the oil temperature is steady at 195=B0F. >> >>With the installed MT propeller MTV175B59, the noise level during go >>around (Vy 95 KIAS, full power, RPM 2500) is 65 dBa (ICAO). This is below >>the limiting value for my plane, however above the maximum value for the >>low noise category. >> >>Best regards >> >> >>-- >>D-EBRV >>80303 >>Stephan J.W. Servatius >>Untere Hauptstr. 3 >>D-85461 Bockhorn >>Tel. +49-(0)8122-4 83 83 >>Fax. +49-(0)8122-902 188 >> >> > > >Scott Bilinski >Eng dept 305 >Phone (858) 657-2536 >Pager (858) 502-5190 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 27, 2004
From: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
Subject: Re: silencer
From the out side the plane it is very noticeable. The first time I realized the difference I was watching a RV taxi and park and thought it must have a auto conversion with mufflers because it was so quiet. I walked over and talked to the pilot and it was a Lycoming with EI. People tell me that with the dual EI I sound more like a car engine than Lycoming. I also have a 3 blade WhirlWind 151 prop that is also VERY quiet. > >I've never heard that theory though it sounds plausable. But I have lots >of time in different RVs with and W/O electronic ignition and sad to say >I've never noticed a difference... :-( > >In a message dated 9/27/2004 9:18:05 AM Eastern Daylight Time, Scott >Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com> writes: > > <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com> > > > >An electronic ignition will quiet down the exhaust noise by burning ALL the > >mixture in the combustion chamber where it belongs. I have dual electronic > >ignition and no mufflers, my plane is quieter than those with mufflers. > > > > > >> > >>Dear RV builders, > >> > >>I just completed my silencers and the noise measuring procedure for my > >>RV8. Silencers had been built by myself, noise tests had been performed by > >>MT in Straubing. > >> > >>The silencers are similar to certified silencers here in Germany. > >>Sometimes the installation causes increased cylinder temperatures. For the > >>moment, I can't acknowledge this in my case. My temperatures vary between > >>310-330=B0F, the oil temperature is steady at 195=B0F. > >> > >>With the installed MT propeller MTV175B59, the noise level during go > >>around (Vy 95 KIAS, full power, RPM 2500) is 65 dBa (ICAO). This is below > >>the limiting value for my plane, however above the maximum value for the > >>low noise category. > >> > >>Best regards > >> > >> > >>-- > >>D-EBRV > >>80303 > >>Stephan J.W. Servatius > >>Untere Hauptstr. 3 > >>D-85461 Bockhorn > >>Tel. +49-(0)8122-4 83 83 > >>Fax. +49-(0)8122-902 188 > >> > >> > > > > > >Scott Bilinski > >Eng dept 305 > >Phone (858) 657-2536 > >Pager (858) 502-5190 > > > > > > Scott Bilinski Eng dept 305 Phone (858) 657-2536 Pager (858) 502-5190 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 27, 2004
From: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
Subject: Cleaning the canopy
How does everyone clean the inside of the canopy with out having to be a contortionist? I am having a real hard time cleaning every inch, mainly the back third of the canopy. Scott Bilinski Eng dept 305 Phone (858) 657-2536 Pager (858) 502-5190 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 27, 2004
From: "Ken Simmons" <ken(at)truckstop.com>
Subject: Re: silencer
Scott, Interesting information. I thought that Whirlwind was not "approving" the 151 on an engine with EI yet. You have a dual setup running with it. Any issues? Is Whirlwind aware of your success? Thanks. Ken ---------- Original Message ---------------------------------- From: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com> Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2004 08:37:43 -0700 > > From the out side the plane it is very noticeable. The first time I >realized the difference I was watching a RV taxi and park and thought it >must have a auto conversion with mufflers because it was so quiet. I walked >over and talked to the pilot and it was a Lycoming with EI. People tell me >that with the dual EI I sound more like a car engine than Lycoming. I also >have a 3 blade WhirlWind 151 prop that is also VERY quiet. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 27, 2004
From: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
Subject: Re: silencer
WW has to play it safe from a legal stand point that is why they are not approving at this time. Yes they know of my success because I keep the plane on the other side of the airport from them and talk with Jim every month or so. I also have 9.2:1 compression. I would imagine after hundreds of hours on the 151 they will remove the "not approved". I currently have about 100 hrs on the 151. The problem they had in the past with the prop was on the WW 150 prop, even then it was not a prop issue, but a spinner bulk head issue. What will happen is that the 3 bolts that hold the spinner bulk head to the prop hub will shear. The 151 spinner bulk head has 6 bolts and has been a non issue to date. > >Scott, > >Interesting information. I thought that Whirlwind was not "approving" the >151 on an engine with EI yet. You have a dual setup running with it. Any >issues? Is Whirlwind aware of your success? > >Thanks. >Ken > > >---------- Original Message ---------------------------------- >From: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com> >Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2004 08:37:43 -0700 > > <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com> > > > > From the out side the plane it is very noticeable. The first time I > >realized the difference I was watching a RV taxi and park and thought it > >must have a auto conversion with mufflers because it was so quiet. I walked > >over and talked to the pilot and it was a Lycoming with EI. People tell me > >that with the dual EI I sound more like a car engine than Lycoming. I also > >have a 3 blade WhirlWind 151 prop that is also VERY quiet. > > > > > > > Scott Bilinski Eng dept 305 Phone (858) 657-2536 Pager (858) 502-5190 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 27, 2004
From: "Ken Simmons" <ken(at)truckstop.com>
Subject: Re: silencer
Scott, Thanks again for the info. Whirlwind is on the top of my list for props. I was in San Diego this summer and stopped by for a chat. I was impressed. I really like the looks of a three blade even though your giving up a little performance. I am also interested in the Hartzell blended airfoil prop. I was a little turned off by the RPM restrictions, but I had a chat with the Superior guys at Reno this year. They showed me an email from Hartzell that basically said there were no restrictions with an XP-360 with mags. Good news, but makes the decision process a little more difficult, again. I also got an email from JT with NationAir that stated the Whirlwind props are covered under the Vanguard program. Ken ---------- Original Message ---------------------------------- From: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com> Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2004 10:12:14 -0700 > >WW has to play it safe from a legal stand point that is why they are not >approving at this time. Yes they know of my success because I keep the >plane on the other side of the airport from them and talk with Jim every >month or so. I also have 9.2:1 compression. I would imagine after hundreds >of hours on the 151 they will remove the "not approved". I currently have >about 100 hrs on the 151. The problem they had in the past with the prop >was on the WW 150 prop, even then it was not a prop issue, but a spinner >bulk head issue. What will happen is that the 3 bolts that hold the spinner >bulk head to the prop hub will shear. The 151 spinner bulk head has 6 bolts >and has been a non issue to date. > > >> >>Scott, >> >>Interesting information. I thought that Whirlwind was not "approving" the >>151 on an engine with EI yet. You have a dual setup running with it. Any >>issues? Is Whirlwind aware of your success? >> >>Thanks. >>Ken >> >> >>---------- Original Message ---------------------------------- >>From: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com> >>Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2004 08:37:43 -0700 >> >> <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com> >> > >> > From the out side the plane it is very noticeable. The first time I >> >realized the difference I was watching a RV taxi and park and thought it >> >must have a auto conversion with mufflers because it was so quiet. I walked >> >over and talked to the pilot and it was a Lycoming with EI. People tell me >> >that with the dual EI I sound more like a car engine than Lycoming. I also >> >have a 3 blade WhirlWind 151 prop that is also VERY quiet. >> > >> > >> >> >> > > >Scott Bilinski >Eng dept 305 >Phone (858) 657-2536 >Pager (858) 502-5190 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 27, 2004
From: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
Subject: Re: silencer
The biggest benefit to the WW 151 prop is that they are light (28lbs lighter than Hartzell), smooth, and quiet, actually very quiet compared to other props. You really need to hear a plane with a 151 take off and you notice a big difference. > >Scott, > >Thanks again for the info. Whirlwind is on the top of my list for props. I >was in San Diego this summer and stopped by for a chat. I was impressed. I >really like the looks of a three blade even though your giving up a little >performance. > >I am also interested in the Hartzell blended airfoil prop. I was a little >turned off by the RPM restrictions, but I had a chat with the Superior >guys at Reno this year. They showed me an email from Hartzell that >basically said there were no restrictions with an XP-360 with mags. Good >news, but makes the decision process a little more difficult, again. > >I also got an email from JT with NationAir that stated the Whirlwind props >are covered under the Vanguard program. > >Ken > > >---------- Original Message ---------------------------------- >From: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com> >Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2004 10:12:14 -0700 > > <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com> > > > >WW has to play it safe from a legal stand point that is why they are not > >approving at this time. Yes they know of my success because I keep the > >plane on the other side of the airport from them and talk with Jim every > >month or so. I also have 9.2:1 compression. I would imagine after hundreds > >of hours on the 151 they will remove the "not approved". I currently have > >about 100 hrs on the 151. The problem they had in the past with the prop > >was on the WW 150 prop, even then it was not a prop issue, but a spinner > >bulk head issue. What will happen is that the 3 bolts that hold the spinner > >bulk head to the prop hub will shear. The 151 spinner bulk head has 6 bolts > >and has been a non issue to date. > > > > > >> > >>Scott, > >> > >>Interesting information. I thought that Whirlwind was not "approving" the > >>151 on an engine with EI yet. You have a dual setup running with it. Any > >>issues? Is Whirlwind aware of your success? > >> > >>Thanks. > >>Ken > >> > >> > >>---------- Original Message ---------------------------------- > >>From: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com> > >>Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2004 08:37:43 -0700 > >> > >> <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com> > >> > > >> > From the out side the plane it is very noticeable. The first time I > >> >realized the difference I was watching a RV taxi and park and thought it > >> >must have a auto conversion with mufflers because it was so quiet. I > walked > >> >over and talked to the pilot and it was a Lycoming with EI. People > tell me > >> >that with the dual EI I sound more like a car engine than Lycoming. I > also > >> >have a 3 blade WhirlWind 151 prop that is also VERY quiet. > >> > > >> > > >> > >> > >> > > > > > >Scott Bilinski > >Eng dept 305 > >Phone (858) 657-2536 > >Pager (858) 502-5190 > > > > > > Scott Bilinski Eng dept 305 Phone (858) 657-2536 Pager (858) 502-5190 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Doug Ripley" <dougr(at)hurricanefilter.com>
Subject: Re: silencer
Date: Sep 27, 2004
I have the new Hartzell blended airfoil, and friends have told me that it is quieter than the standard Hartzell or other fixed-pitch props. I would rather make some noise. Give me a round engine and a llooonnnnnggg prop!!!!!! GGRRROOOOWWWWWWLLLLLL!! ----- Original Message ----- From: "Scott Bilinski" <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com> Subject: Re: RV8-List: silencer <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com> > > The biggest benefit to the WW 151 prop is that they are light (28lbs > lighter than Hartzell), smooth, and quiet, actually very quiet compared to > other props. You really need to hear a plane with a 151 take off and you > notice a big difference. > > > > > >Scott, > > > >Thanks again for the info. Whirlwind is on the top of my list for props. I > >was in San Diego this summer and stopped by for a chat. I was impressed. I > >really like the looks of a three blade even though your giving up a little > >performance. > > > >I am also interested in the Hartzell blended airfoil prop. I was a little > >turned off by the RPM restrictions, but I had a chat with the Superior > >guys at Reno this year. They showed me an email from Hartzell that > >basically said there were no restrictions with an XP-360 with mags. Good > >news, but makes the decision process a little more difficult, again. > > > >I also got an email from JT with NationAir that stated the Whirlwind props > >are covered under the Vanguard program. > > > >Ken > > > > > >---------- Original Message ---------------------------------- > >From: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com> > >Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2004 10:12:14 -0700 > > > > <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com> > > > > > >WW has to play it safe from a legal stand point that is why they are not > > >approving at this time. Yes they know of my success because I keep the > > >plane on the other side of the airport from them and talk with Jim every > > >month or so. I also have 9.2:1 compression. I would imagine after hundreds > > >of hours on the 151 they will remove the "not approved". I currently have > > >about 100 hrs on the 151. The problem they had in the past with the prop > > >was on the WW 150 prop, even then it was not a prop issue, but a spinner > > >bulk head issue. What will happen is that the 3 bolts that hold the spinner > > >bulk head to the prop hub will shear. The 151 spinner bulk head has 6 bolts > > >and has been a non issue to date. > > > > > > > > >> > > >>Scott, > > >> > > >>Interesting information. I thought that Whirlwind was not "approving" the > > >>151 on an engine with EI yet. You have a dual setup running with it. Any > > >>issues? Is Whirlwind aware of your success? > > >> > > >>Thanks. > > >>Ken > > >> > > >> > > >>---------- Original Message ---------------------------------- > > >>From: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com> > > >>Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2004 08:37:43 -0700 > > >> > > >> <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com> > > >> > > > >> > From the out side the plane it is very noticeable. The first time I > > >> >realized the difference I was watching a RV taxi and park and thought it > > >> >must have a auto conversion with mufflers because it was so quiet. I > > walked > > >> >over and talked to the pilot and it was a Lycoming with EI. People > > tell me > > >> >that with the dual EI I sound more like a car engine than Lycoming. I > > also > > >> >have a 3 blade WhirlWind 151 prop that is also VERY quiet. > > >> > > > >> > > > >> > > >> > > >> > > > > > > > > >Scott Bilinski > > >Eng dept 305 > > >Phone (858) 657-2536 > > >Pager (858) 502-5190 > > > > > > > > > > > > > Scott Bilinski > Eng dept 305 > Phone (858) 657-2536 > Pager (858) 502-5190 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jacob & Grace" <grizzlybear(at)klondiker.com>
Subject: Selling some more stuff
Date: Sep 28, 2004
Looking to clear up a bit of junk in the shop; RV-8 Orndorf Videos for Wing, Fuselage, Finish Kit.......1/2 current li$t Still have 5" wheels, tires,tubes,brakes,axles,nuts unused...1/2 current li$t Probably have the wheel pants to go too ....ditto Exhaust for 0-320 (The "cheap" straight pipe - aircraft spruce type, not new but never used) I would not put this on an RV! ...be$t offer C-180 /185 ski axles and bolts (don't ask) perfect shape .....1/2 li$t Citabria or Cub Tail Ski .......no idea...best offer You pay freight. Call me 867-667-3406 867-667-1821 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 04, 2004
From: Jim Bean <jim-bean(at)att.net>
Subject: Cement rubber to canopy
hello all, I want to cement a rubber moulding to the front of my slider canopy (RV-8) to make a rain seal. What glue is available that won't craze the plastic? Since its a quickbuild I didn't need Proseal and don't have any about the shop. Jim Bean "Finishing" ________________________________________________________________________________
From: MStudio828(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 07, 2004
Subject: RV-8 for sale
RV-8(at)yahoogroups.com 2002, RV-8, 200 TT, 180 HP Lycoming O-360, Sensenich 85" alum prop, day-night VFR, Garmin mode C w/encoder, Garmin 295 color GPS, A-200 com, CD player, stero intercom, always hangered. Inquire off list Larry MStudio828(at)aol.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Alfredo Santoro" <alfredo.santoro(at)poste.it>
Subject: Rivets on RVs
Date: Oct 15, 2004
Hello, everybody. I was thinking that some of you would sure be able to clarify me something that I was told by an RV 6 builder that I met. I asked him suggestions about building an RV 4, which is what I am aiming to do as soon as possible. (Well, I am still at the decision phase about what kit to purchase). He was busy, during a home-builder meeting which I was attending as a tourist or little more, so he explained me the thing rather quickly and I am not sure I understood it well. Basically, when he heard me talking about an RV 4 (which I love and had enjoyed a chance to fly), he suggested me to prefer an RV 8, instead, because of the different kind of rivets Van's adopted on it. He said that the RV 8 type of riveting is completely different and makes the structure stronger, expecially in aerobatics. Is anybody of you able to explain me the differences among the two, and confirm me this thesis? Thank you very much. Alfredo Santoro Rome, Italy. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com>
Subject: Rivets on RVs
Date: Oct 15, 2004
Alfredo, The RV-4 structure is not riveted in a different manner, but the RV-8 kit comes to you with many of the part already drilled so that the parts match. This saves a great deal of time for the builder. I built a RV-6A in which all parts measured and marked by the builder (Me!) before riveting. I am building a RV-8 which is pre-drilled for the most part. The time saved is astonishing. The newer designs from Van's Aircraft are for computer-aided cutting, shaping and drilling machines - the RV-7, RV-7A and RV-9 and RV-9A designs have even more of the parts pre-drilled than the RV-8. Stephen Soule Swanton, Vermont -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Alfredo Santoro Subject: RV8-List: Rivets on RVs --> Hello, everybody. I was thinking that some of you would sure be able to clarify me something that I was told by an RV 6 builder that I met. I asked him suggestions about building an RV 4, which is what I am aiming to do as soon as possible. (Well, I am still at the decision phase about what kit to purchase). He was busy, during a home-builder meeting which I was attending as a tourist or little more, so he explained me the thing rather quickly and I am not sure I understood it well. Basically, when he heard me talking about an RV 4 (which I love and had enjoyed a chance to fly), he suggested me to prefer an RV 8, instead, because of the different kind of rivets Van's adopted on it. He said that the RV 8 type of riveting is completely different and makes the structure stronger, expecially in aerobatics. Is anybody of you able to explain me the differences among the two, and confirm me this thesis? Thank you very much. Alfredo Santoro Rome, Italy. advertising on the Matronics Forums. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 15, 2004
From: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
Subject: Re: Rivets on RVs
I built an 8a and have no experience with the 4. As far as I know, the 8 is only stronger by design not rivets. Matter of fact the factory to me you could take out 1/3rd of the rivets in an RV-8 and it would still meet the structural requirements of +6 -4 g's > >Hello, everybody. >I was thinking that some of you would sure be able to clarify me something >that I was told by an RV 6 builder that I met. >I asked him suggestions about building an RV 4, which is what I am aiming >to do as soon as possible. (Well, I am still at the decision phase about >what kit to purchase). >He was busy, during a home-builder meeting which I was attending as a >tourist or little more, so he explained me the thing rather quickly and I >am not sure I understood it well. >Basically, when he heard me talking about an RV 4 (which I love and had >enjoyed a chance to fly), he suggested me to prefer an RV 8, instead, >because of the different kind of rivets Van's adopted on it. >He said that the RV 8 type of riveting is completely different and makes >the structure stronger, expecially in aerobatics. >Is anybody of you able to explain me the differences among the two, and >confirm me this thesis? > >Thank you very much. > >Alfredo Santoro >Rome, Italy. > > Scott Bilinski Eng dept 305 Phone (858) 657-2536 Pager (858) 502-5190 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Vince Himsl" <vhimsl(at)turbonet.com>
Subject: RV8 - Canopy Frame Hole location Tip
Date: Oct 15, 2004
Finally made the cut...canopy that is and thought I would pass on this tip that might help you in measuring the rivet hole locations on the canopy frame for both the canopy and the canopy skirt. If this is only news to me, my apologies. Problem: The canopy frame is made from round tubing. I hate round tubing! Where do you drill? Well.... Canopy Skirt: Take a flat strip of thin aluminum that has been laying around awhile. Next, lay it across the canopy frame to simulate the skirt so that it touches as many spots as possible on the fuselage side, frame ribs, etc Now the trick...Press down and move the aluminum strip around in a circular motion maintaining that position. The corrosion on the aluminum rubs off onto the frame tubing. Now stand back and you will see a perfect line on the tubing indicating the exact location where the canopy skirt will touch the canopy frame tubing. Canopy itself: This is different as the angle the canopy sits on the frame is different from the skirt. The way you handle this is to put the canopy in (final) position. Now with two pieces of aluminum, one stationary to protect the canopy and the moveable piece between it and the frame; move the aluminum around to mark exactly where the canopy will touch the canopy frame tubing. The back end of the canopy gets a little tougher...need someone inside, but it beats guessing! I am hoping that the more accurate placement of the holes will help prevent cracking and give a more precise rivet line. Time will tell. Regards Vince Himsl Moscow, ID USA RV-8 VSB (Very Slow Built) Finish ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jim Daniels <jwdanie(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: RV8 - Canopy Frame Hole location Tip
Date: Oct 15, 2004
> Canopy itself: > This is different as the angle the canopy sits on the frame is > different from the skirt. The way you handle this is to put > the canopy in (final) position. Now with two pieces of aluminum, one > stationary to protect the canopy and the moveable > piece between it and the frame; move the aluminum around to mark > exactly where the canopy will touch the canopy frame > tubing. The back end of the canopy gets a little tougher...need > someone inside, but it beats guessing! Another way is to clamp the canopy securely on both sides of the rivet location. You will see a faint contact line form where the canopy rests on the tubing. Just drill centered on this line and perpendicular to the canopy. Works on the windscreen as well as the canopy. Jim Daniels ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com>
Subject: RV8 - Canopy Frame Hole location Tip
Date: Oct 15, 2004
I put a thin film of oil on the frame while doing this. It really made the contact line stand out. - Larry Bowen Larry(at)BowenAero.com http://BowenAero.com > -----Original Message----- > From: Jim Daniels [mailto:jwdanie(at)comcast.net] > Sent: Friday, October 15, 2004 10:14 PM > To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV8-List: RV8 - Canopy Frame Hole location Tip > > > > Canopy itself: > > This is different as the angle the canopy sits on the frame is > > different from the skirt. The way you handle this is to put > the canopy > > in (final) position. Now with two pieces of aluminum, one > stationary > > to protect the canopy and the moveable piece between it and > the frame; > > move the aluminum around to mark exactly where the canopy > will touch > > the canopy frame tubing. The back end of the canopy gets a little > > tougher...need someone inside, but it beats guessing! > > Another way is to clamp the canopy securely on both sides of > the rivet location. You will see a faint contact line form > where the canopy rests on the tubing. Just drill centered on > this line and perpendicular to the canopy. Works on the > windscreen as well as the canopy. > > Jim Daniels > > > ============ > Matronics Forums. > ============ > ============ > ============ > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Esten Spears" <ewspears(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: RV8 - Canopy Frame Hole location Tip
Date: Oct 16, 2004
I think the way I like the best is; Put masking tape on the tubing, lightly clamp the plexi to the frame, Then remove some of the clamps in a local area, slide a piece of carbon paper (remember that stuff!) between plexi and taped frame, tap plexi with fingertips and voila! you have a distinct contact line on the tubing,. Just lay out your hole spacing and centerpunch right on the line. This is quick, easy, and almost eliminates the crack danger of setting a rivit or screw in a hole slightly off the contact line. Esten Spears, RV8A, 80922, N922ES (reserved), Leeward Air Ranch, Ocala, FL ----- Original Message ----- From: "Vince Himsl" <vhimsl(at)turbonet.com> Subject: RV8-List: RV8 - Canopy Frame Hole location Tip > > Finally made the cut...canopy that is and thought I would pass on this tip > that might help you in measuring the rivet hole > locations on the canopy frame for both the canopy and the canopy skirt. If > this is only news to me, my apologies. > > Problem: > The canopy frame is made from round tubing. I hate round tubing! Where do > you drill? > > Well.... > > Canopy Skirt: > Take a flat strip of thin aluminum that has been laying around awhile. > Next, lay it across the canopy frame to simulate the > skirt so that it touches as many spots as possible on the fuselage side, > frame ribs, etc > > Now the trick...Press down and move the aluminum strip around in a > circular motion maintaining that position. The corrosion > on the aluminum rubs off onto the frame tubing. Now stand back and you > will see a perfect line on the tubing indicating the > exact location where the canopy skirt will touch the canopy frame tubing. > > Canopy itself: > This is different as the angle the canopy sits on the frame is different > from the skirt. The way you handle this is to put > the canopy in (final) position. Now with two pieces of aluminum, one > stationary to protect the canopy and the moveable > piece between it and the frame; move the aluminum around to mark exactly > where the canopy will touch the canopy frame > tubing. The back end of the canopy gets a little tougher...need someone > inside, but it beats guessing! > > I am hoping that the more accurate placement of the holes will help > prevent cracking and give a more precise rivet line. > > Time will tell. > > Regards > Vince Himsl > Moscow, ID USA > RV-8 VSB (Very Slow Built) Finish > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Alfredo Santoro" <alfredo.santoro(at)poste.it>
Subject: Re: Rivets on RVs
Date: Oct 17, 2004
Oh, I see.. That is good information. Thank you very much, Stephen and Scott for your explanation! Alfredo. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> Subject: RE: RV8-List: Rivets on RVs > Alfredo, > > The RV-4 structure is not riveted in a different manner, but the RV-8 kit > comes to you with many of the part already drilled so that the parts > match. > This saves a great deal of time for the builder. I built a RV-6A in which > all parts measured and marked by the builder (Me!) before riveting. I am > building a RV-8 which is pre-drilled for the most part. The time saved is > astonishing. > > The newer designs from Van's Aircraft are for computer-aided cutting, > shaping and drilling machines - the RV-7, RV-7A and RV-9 and RV-9A designs > have even more of the parts pre-drilled than the RV-8. > > Stephen Soule > Swanton, Vermont > > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Alfredo Santoro > Sent: Friday, October 15, 2004 10:07 AM > To: RV 8 List > Subject: RV8-List: Rivets on RVs > > > --> > > Hello, everybody. > I was thinking that some of you would sure be able to clarify me something > that I was told by an RV 6 builder that I met. I asked him suggestions > about > building an RV 4, which is what I am aiming to do as soon as possible. > (Well, I am still at the decision phase about what kit to purchase). He > was > busy, during a home-builder meeting which I was attending as a tourist or > little more, so he explained me the thing rather quickly and I am not sure > I > understood it well. Basically, when he heard me talking about an RV 4 > (which > I love and had enjoyed a chance to fly), he suggested me to prefer an RV > 8, > instead, because of the different kind of rivets Van's adopted on it. He > said that the RV 8 type of riveting is completely different and makes the > structure stronger, expecially in aerobatics. Is anybody of you able to > explain me the differences among the two, and confirm me this thesis? > > Thank you very much. > > Alfredo Santoro > Rome, Italy. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 16, 2004
From: Pete Marshall <wpetermarshall(at)shaw.ca>
Subject: Re: RV8 - Canopy Frame Hole location Tip
----- Original Message ----- From: "Jim Daniels" <jwdanie(at)comcast.net> Subject: Re: RV8-List: RV8 - Canopy Frame Hole location Tip > > > Canopy itself: > > This is different as the angle the canopy sits on the frame is > > different from the skirt. The way you handle this is to put > > the canopy in (final) position. Now with two pieces of aluminum, one > > stationary to protect the canopy and the moveable > > piece between it and the frame; move the aluminum around to mark > > exactly where the canopy will touch the canopy frame > > tubing. The back end of the canopy gets a little tougher...need > > someone inside, but it beats guessing! > > Another way is to clamp the canopy securely on both sides of the rivet > location. You will see a faint contact line form where the canopy > rests on the tubing. Just drill centered on this line and > perpendicular to the canopy. Works on the windscreen as well as the > canopy. > > Jim Daniels > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 17, 2004
From: "Ken Simmons" <ken(at)truckstop.com>
Subject: Battery box on QB 8
Couple of questions on the battery box. I'm working on a QB fuselage and the plans tell me to install the battery tray after I've done the cabin side covers and before the arm rests. Am I missing the logic in installing the battery tray at this point? I'm not sure why the plans have you jump from the cabin to the firewall and back to the cabin. I was also wondering about the battery tray itself. I've read on one of the lists that it's better to install the regular size tray even if you plan on an Odyssey battery. You can pad the tray for the smaller battery, but if it craps out away from home base you can replace it with a standard battery to get home. Any thoughts? Thanks. Ken ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RVEIGHTA(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 18, 2004
b... Ken, if you are installing a constant speed prop, you'll want to hold off on the battery tray until you do a weight and balance to see where you're gonna put the battery - on the firewall or aft of the rear luggage compartment. If you aren't using a constant speed prop it really doesn't matter when you build the battery box. I built the standard battery box in my RV-8A and used some hardwood shims to make my odyssey battery fit. Hope this helps. Walt Shipley RV-8A 125 hrs. RV-8 fuselage ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Wayne Berg" <wfberg(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: Battery box on QB 8
Date: Oct 18, 2004
You can build in any order you want. It's your airplane. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Doug Ripley" <dougr(at)hurricanefilter.com>
Subject: Swapping Gear
Date: Oct 20, 2004
Does anyone have a suggestion on how to support a RV-8 airframe in a way that would allow removal of the gear legs? I've thought about lifting the tail to level flight, and building some type of a fixture that would lift it at the spar carry-through. Ideas? Doug Ripley N821DT ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 20, 2004
From: Pete Marshall <wpetermarshall(at)shaw.ca>
Subject: Re: Swapping Gear
Doug, I have read on the list that some of the guys screw in a fitting of their choice into the wing tiedown socket and jack from there. Someone needs to come up with a better mousetrap on this one. Cheers, Pete ----- Original Message ----- From: "Doug Ripley" <dougr(at)hurricanefilter.com> Subject: RV8-List: Swapping Gear > > Does anyone have a suggestion on how to support a RV-8 airframe in a way that would allow removal of the gear legs? > > I've thought about lifting the tail to level flight, and building some type of a fixture that would lift it at the spar carry-through. > > Ideas? > > Doug Ripley > N821DT > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "cgalley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org>
Subject: Re: Swapping Gear
Date: Oct 21, 2004
Why not use a sling on the motor mount attachments at the fire wall. Use a come-a-long from the hangar rafters or an engine hoist. Cy Galley - Chair, AirVenture Emergency Aircraft Repair A Service Project of Chapter 75 EAA Safety Programs Editor - TC EAA Sport Pilot ----- Original Message ----- From: "Pete Marshall" <wpetermarshall(at)shaw.ca> Subject: Re: RV8-List: Swapping Gear > > Doug, > I have read on the list that some of the guys screw in a fitting of their > choice into the wing tiedown socket and jack from there. > > Someone needs to come up with a better mousetrap on this one. > Cheers, Pete > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Doug Ripley" <dougr(at)hurricanefilter.com> > To: "RV8-List Digest Server" > Subject: RV8-List: Swapping Gear > > > > > > Does anyone have a suggestion on how to support a RV-8 airframe in a way > that would allow removal of the gear legs? > > > > I've thought about lifting the tail to level flight, and building some > type of a fixture that would lift it at the spar carry-through. > > > > Ideas? > > > > Doug Ripley > > N821DT > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Swapping Gear
From: "Ken Dominy" <abqmooney(at)excite.com>
Date: Oct 21, 2004
The way you described is the way I supported my fuselage to install the gear legs in my quickbuild. The tail was installed, so I could not invert the fuselage. I used the shipping supports installed in the spar center section attached to an H frame that I made and made a support for the tail that adjusted for height to level the whole thing. Drilling the holes for the gear legs and saddles was not fun.--- On Wed 10/20, Doug Ripley dougr(at)hurricanefilter.com wrote: Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com The most personalized portal on the Web! ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Swapping Gear
From: "Ken Dominy" <abqmooney(at)excite.com>
Date: Oct 21, 2004
Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com The most personalized portal on the Web! ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com>
Subject: Swapping Gear
Date: Oct 21, 2004
Doug, Good to hear that you succeeded in this approach. I am planning (carefully) to support the right-side-up QB fuselage and install the gear legs from below. I am glad to hear the you did it successfully. Any tips to offer about aligning the gear legs with the centerline of the fuselage? I think that it will be easier to get the gear lined up with this approach, than if the fuselage is inverted and the gear is sticking up in the air. Stephen Soule Swanton, Vermont N227RV RV-6A flying and N222SZ RV-8 in the increasing cold garage -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ken Dominy Subject: RE: RV8-List: Swapping Gear The way you described is the way I supported my fuselage to install the gear legs in my quickbuild. The tail was installed, so I could not invert the fuselage. I used the shipping supports installed in the spar center section attached to an H frame that I made and made a support for the tail that adjusted for height to level the whole thing. Drilling the holes for the gear legs and saddles was not fun.--- On Wed 10/20, Doug Ripley dougr(at)hurricanefilter.com wrote: Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com The most personalized portal on the Web! advertising on the Matronics Forums. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 21, 2004
From: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch>
Subject: Swapping Gear
Wow - I found that installing the gear legs with the fuselage on its back was challenging enough - I can't imagine the pain of doing it from underneath. My recommendation is to try to flip the fuselage. >Good to hear that you succeeded in this approach. I am planning (carefully) >to support the right-side-up QB fuselage and install the gear legs from >below. I am glad to hear the you did it successfully. Any tips to offer >about aligning the gear legs with the centerline of the fuselage? I think >that it will be easier to get the gear lined up with this approach, than if >the fuselage is inverted and the gear is sticking up in the air. -- Mickey Coggins http://www.rv8.ch/ #82007 QB Wings/Fuselage ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Paul Schattauer" <chasm711(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: Swapping Gear
Date: Oct 23, 2004
Be careful if you jack the wing up by the bolts in the tiedown fixtures. This is very close to the balance point of the aircraft and it may tip over on to the the nose damaging the prop. One side is OK. both is riskey. Paul 808PS flying. >From: Pete Marshall <wpetermarshall(at)shaw.ca> >Reply-To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com >To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: Re: RV8-List: Swapping Gear >Date: Wed, 20 Oct 2004 22:54:28 -0700 > > >Doug, >I have read on the list that some of the guys screw in a fitting of their >choice into the wing tiedown socket and jack from there. > >Someone needs to come up with a better mousetrap on this one. >Cheers, Pete >----- Original Message ----- >From: "Doug Ripley" <dougr(at)hurricanefilter.com> >To: "RV8-List Digest Server" >Subject: RV8-List: Swapping Gear > > > > > > > Does anyone have a suggestion on how to support a RV-8 airframe in a way >that would allow removal of the gear legs? > > > > I've thought about lifting the tail to level flight, and building some >type of a fixture that would lift it at the spar carry-through. > > > > Ideas? > > > > Doug Ripley > > N821DT > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 23, 2004
Subject: [ Neal George ] : New Email List Photo Share Available!
From: Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com>
A new Email List Photo Share is available: Poster: Neal George Subject: 110v Hobbs Meter http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/Neal.George@MAXWELL.AF.MIL.10.23.2004/index.html o Main Photo Share Index http://www.matronics.com/photoshare o Submitting a Photo Share If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the following information along with your email message and files: 1) Email List or Lists that they are related to: 2) Your Full Name: 3) Your Email Address: 4) One line Subject description: 5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic: 6) One-line Description of each photo or file: Email the information above and your files and photos to: pictures(at)matronics.com ________________________________________________________________________________ RV-8 list
From: Ed OConnor <Edwardoconnor(at)mac.com>
Subject: Unknown part
Date: Oct 26, 2004
Was cleaning out a corner of my shop and found a part labeled (WH 801) Cannot find it on my plans and wonder where it goes. Any one have any idea? My wings are done and I don't think I'm missing any parts but I've thought that before. RV-8/N366RV/Panama City Fl ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Karie Daniel" <karie4(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Unknown part
Date: Oct 26, 2004
Only things listed on "The List" starting with WH are; WH SM35-1/2-9X0.75P15 SHRINK LABEL P15 WH-P10 #2 ELEC.CABLE 15.25" $10.08 WH-P11 #2 ELEC.CABLE 34.25" $17.52 WH-P15 #2 ELEC.CABLE 15.75" $10.17 WH-P16 #2 ELEC.CABLE 30" $8.35 WH-P17 #2 ELEC.CABLE 37.25" $19.25 WH-P18 #2 ELEC.CABLE 15.25" $10.08 WH-P19 #2 ELEC.CABLE 9.25" $7.81 WH-P4 #2 ELEC.CABLE 127.25" $38.00 WH-P4F #2 ELEC.CABLE 7.75" $7.13 WH-P5 #2 ELEC.CABLE 11" $8.35 WH-P6 #2 ELEC.CABLE 11.75" $8.72 Did this come with a landing light kit or something? What does it look like? Karie ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ed OConnor" <Edwardoconnor(at)mac.com> Subject: RV-List: Unknown part > --> RV-List message posted by: Ed OConnor > > Was cleaning out a corner of my shop and found a part labeled (WH 801) > Cannot find it on my plans and wonder where it goes. Any one have any > idea? My wings are done and I don't think I'm missing any parts but > I've thought that before. > > RV-8/N366RV/Panama City Fl > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 29, 2004
From: Jim Bean <jim-bean(at)att.net>
Subject: Wing Bolts
listers, Is there any opinion about which way the wing bolts should be installed, with the nuts forward or aft of the spar? Jim Bean "finishing" ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RVEIGHTA(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 29, 2004
Subject: Re: Wing Bolts
Jim, the general rule, as you probably know, is bolt head forward, nut aft. But you may find it's easier to install some of the bolts the opposite direction, and this according to Van's support is ok. Walt Shipley RV-8A N314TS 130hrs ________________________________________________________________________________
From: UFOBUCK(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 29, 2004
Subject: Re: Wing Bolts
In a message dated 10/29/2004 8:37:41 PM Central Standard Time, RVEIGHTA(at)aol.com writes: > is bolt head forward, nut aft. > I would be interested in the rational of "head forward and nut aft." I have a hard time believing it makes a difference. BClary ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Paul Schattauer" <chasm711(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: Wing Bolts
Date: Oct 29, 2004
It's bolt in, down and aft. The rational is that if the nut backs off the bolt will have some gravitational force keeping it in place. I believe that this goes back to taildragger days. It is only a suggestion and really doesn't make much difference other than giving a methodology to construction and the slight advantage of the bolt perhaps staying in place with the nut off. Feel free to deviate if it makes construction easier. Paul >From: UFOBUCK(at)aol.com >Reply-To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com >To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: Re: RV8-List: Wing Bolts >Date: Fri, 29 Oct 2004 22:31:24 EDT > > >In a message dated 10/29/2004 8:37:41 PM Central Standard Time, >RVEIGHTA(at)aol.com writes: > > > is bolt head forward, nut aft. > > > >I would be interested in the rational of "head forward and nut aft." >I have a hard time believing it makes a difference. > >BClary > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jack Blomgren" <jackanet(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Wing Bolts
Date: Oct 30, 2004
Jim, No difference as far as shear loads on the bolts. For my -8, assembling nuts on front side of spar due to plumbing and space limitations interfering with 7/16" bolts from front. Your experience and results may differ. Jack wiring, etc. From: Jim Bean;jim-bean(at)att.net rv8-list(at)matronics.com Subject: RV8-List: Wing Bolts Date: Fri, 29 Oct 2004 20:51:32 -0400 RV8-List message posted by: Jim Bean; jim-bean(at)att.net listers, Is there any opinion about which way the wing bolts should be installed, with the nuts forward or aft of the spar? Jim Bean finishing ________________________________________________________________________________
From: luckymacy(at)comcast.net (lucky)
Date: Oct 30, 2004
I'm looking for opinions from you RV8 pilots out there. Classic Aero Designs markets their RV8 seats with the following statement "To improve comfort in the front seat, a new backrest has been designed. The backrest consists of a chromoly frame that is fully enclosed by the seat cover like an automotive seat. The unique design of the frame moves the pilots shoulders back slightly. Foam padding provides a slightly wider backrest for the pilot, and padding near the passenger's knees." http://www.classicaerodesigns.com/?source=rvproject.com Is there an issue I've never heard of before with the "normal" Pilot's seat width other vendors are styling? Even if there generally isn't, is this mod to the normal seat design desireable? I don't want it if it's a "heavy" seat. I've never seen any of their work that I know of. Thanks, Lucky I'm looking for opinions from you RV8 pilots out there. Classic Aero Designs markets their RV8 seats with the following statement "To improve comfort in the front seat, a new backrest has been designed. The backrest consists of a chromoly frame that is fully enclosed by the seat cover like an automotive seat. The unique design of the frame moves the pilots shoulders back slightly. Foam padding provides a slightly wider backrest for the pilot, and padding near the passenger's knees." http://www.classicaerodesigns.com/?source=rvproject.com Is there an issue I've never heard of before with the "normal" Pilot's seat width other vendors are styling? Even if there generally isn't, is this mod to the normal seat design desireable? I don't want it if it's a "heavy" seat. I've never seen any of their work that I know of. Thanks, Lucky ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Joel Harding <cajole76(at)ispwest.com>
Subject: Re: seats
Date: Oct 30, 2004
Lucky, I have a set of their seats and they are very comfortable. The internal frame back rest might be a little heavier, but the comfort level makes it more than worth it. It attaches to the same hinge that Van uses and at least for me, (6' 3") the legroom came out perfectly. The quality of the materials and workmanship are excellent. I think you will be more than satisfied. Joel Harding On Oct 30, 2004, at 1:47 PM, lucky wrote: > > I'm looking for opinions from you RV8 pilots out there. Classic Aero > Designs markets their RV8 seats with the following statement "To > improve comfort in the front seat, a new backrest has been designed. > The backrest consists of a chromoly frame that is fully enclosed by > the seat cover like an automotive seat. The unique design of the frame > moves the pilots shoulders back slightly. Foam padding provides a > slightly wider backrest for the pilot, and padding near the > passenger's knees." > http://www.classicaerodesigns.com/?source=rvproject.com > Is there an issue I've never heard of before with the "normal" Pilot's > seat width other vendors are styling? Even if there generally isn't, > is this mod to the normal seat design desireable? I don't want it if > it's a "heavy" seat. I've never seen any of their work that I know > of. > Thanks, > Lucky > > I'm looking for opinions from you RV8 pilots out there. Classic Aero > Designs markets their RV8 seats with the following statement "To > improve comfort in the front seat, a new backrest has been designed. > The backrest consists of a chromoly frame that is fully enclosed by > the seat cover like an automotive seat. The unique design of the frame > moves the pilots shoulders back slightly. Foam padding provides a > slightly wider backrest for the pilot, and padding near the > passenger's knees." > http://www.classicaerodesigns.com/?source=rvproject.com > Is there an issue I've never heard of before with the "normal" Pilot's > seat width other vendors are styling? Even if there generally isn't, > is this mod to the normal seat design desireable? I don't want it if > it's a "heavy" seat. I've never seen any of their work that I know of. > Thanks, > Lucky > > > _- > ======================================================================= > _- > ======================================================================= > _- > ======================================================================= > _- > ======================================================================= > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RVEIGHTA(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 06, 2004
Subject: Rear Seat Heat Revisited
Guys, some time back I asked if anyone had installed rear seat heat in their 8's. It seems that very few have gone this route. Personally I would prefer not doing this, because it entails cutting holes through structures such as the gear tower. But, I'm in a partnership, and my partner really has his sights on heat for the passenger area. My question to those of you living in colder climates is, have you really felt the need for heat in back IF the cabin is well sealed against air leaks? I might add that we will have dual heat muffs providing heat to the cabin. Walt Shipley ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Rear Seat Heat Revisited
From: "Greg V. Miller" <gvm3(at)cableone.net>
Date: Nov 06, 2004
Yes. SE Idaho gets cold anyway and we're often flying above 10K feet due to mountains--dual heat tries to keep the cabin warmish from the waist down, but often is not enough, especially on overcast days and up in the teens of altitude in winter. I have dual heat muffs and firewall mounted flapper valve boxes. One dumps on pilots feet, the other dumps on the pax left foot pocket via 2" SCAT. The SCAT is tied to the left pilot seat ramp, routes straight back to the firewall inboard on the fuel switch, along the left gear tower and back along the fuel line forward of the gear tower. I mounted the transponder onto the left gear tower too and the SCAT runs just below it so it doesn't really seem to stick out as it goes by the gear tower. Plenty of room, no interference with rudder pedals, and simple to install. Only problem is sealing it in summer, the flapper valve boxes mounted on firewall don't seal closed well and pax's complain about hot-foot...Anyone have a fix for that? Cheers, Greg Miller, 400 hrs, 4 yrs, RV8 N89GM On Sat, 2004-11-06 at 02:12, RVEIGHTA(at)aol.com wrote: > > Guys, some time back I asked if anyone had installed rear seat heat in their > 8's. It seems that very few have gone this route. Personally I would prefer > not doing this, because it entails cutting holes through structures such as > the gear tower. But, I'm in a partnership, and my partner really has his > sights on heat for the passenger area. > > My question to those of you living in colder climates is, have you really > felt the need for heat in back IF the cabin is well sealed against air leaks? I > might add that we will have dual heat muffs providing heat to the cabin. > > Walt Shipley > > > > -- ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com>
Subject: RV-8 quickbuild fuselage question - drilling forward top skin
Date: Nov 08, 2004
Good Morning, This question is about the RV-8 quick build fuselage. When drilling the F821PP top skin to the forward left side (just aft of the firewall) into the longeron and WD-802-L weldment, should the AN426AD4-7 rivets already in the F820-PP-L skin be drilled out? Should the two AN426AD3-6 keeper rivets be drilled out? How should the F821PP top skin be attached to the underlying WD802-L weldment in this area? Should I drill two or three #40 holes for rivets between the AN426AD4-7 rivets already in place. Can't find the answer on the plans. Stephen Soule RV-8 N222SZ under construction ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jack Blomgren" <jackanet(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: IO snorkle to cowl baffle?
Date: Nov 08, 2004
-8 Builders with IO-360 using Van's VA-132 horizonal induction snorkle, Installation Instructions with the above snorkle induction system are very sparce and with illustrations no help to me in mating the snorkle in the area of Van's cowl baffle part 3 (forward left front side). An example of some confusion, the top left side of the snorkle is about an inch further outboard than the forward projecting cowl baffle part 3. Does anyone have more info, drawings, measurments and/or photos to clarify this area? Examples of how others solved the marriage of the snorkle (with filter) to this baffling will be much appreciated. Thanks, Jack, Red Wing, MN ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Clark, Thomas M UTPWR" <Tom.Clark(at)utcfuelcells.com>
Subject: Flap motors
Date: Nov 08, 2004
RV-8 List, I am starting to have intermittent operation with my flap motor and sometime back I remember some posts on a new design or replacement motor and some temporary fixes for the older motors. Anyone else out there been through this issue. Having flap problems after 65 hours, Tom Clark RV-8 Fastback N525TC ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 08, 2004
From: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
Subject: Re: Flap motors
It is excess grease that has worked its way into the brushes. Disassemble and degrease, reassemble and it should be just fine. Those brushes are fun though! > > >RV-8 List, >I am starting to have intermittent operation with my flap motor and sometime >back I remember some posts on a new design or replacement motor and some >temporary fixes for the older motors. Anyone else out there been through >this issue. >Having flap problems after 65 hours, >Tom Clark >RV-8 Fastback >N525TC > > Scott Bilinski Eng dept 305 Phone (858) 657-2536 Pager (858) 502-5190 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 08, 2004
From: Jonathan Weiswasser <jonweisw(at)rcn.com>
Subject: Re: IO snorkle to cowl baffle?
Ah....Good One!!! What type of engine are you using? If you are using the 200Hp IO360 from Vans, then it should fit according to the instructions. If, like me, you have the 180Hp Io360 (M1B) from Vans, then you need to be a little creative. The difference is that the snorkel is designed for the 1" wider deck on the 200Hp engine. I did a combination of cutting and reglassing about 3/4" of the outboard top side of the snorkel and making some changes to the baffle. I added an aluminum doubler to the bottom of the baffle floor that was wider than the actual floor. I then added a piece of angle to the outboard side of the baffle side wall for the outboard baffle to snorkel attach bolts to go through. Last, I cut out the hole for the snorkel (which ends up being slightly smaller than the actual orifice) and drilled holes that go through the baffle floor into nutplates on those angles spelled out by the instructions. I know a picture is worth a thousand words here (esp with the incredibly straight forward baffling process). Contact me off the list, and I'll see what I have. Jon Weiswasser RV-8, N898JW 50h jonweisw at rcn.com Jack Blomgren wrote: > >-8 Builders with IO-360 using Van's VA-132 horizonal induction snorkle, > >Installation Instructions with the above snorkle induction system are very >sparce and with illustrations no help to me in mating the snorkle in the >area of Van's cowl baffle part 3 (forward left front side). An example of >some confusion, the top left side of the snorkle is about an inch further >outboard than the forward projecting cowl baffle part 3. Does anyone have >more info, drawings, measurments and/or photos to clarify this area? >Examples of how others solved the marriage of the snorkle (with filter) to >this baffling will be much appreciated. > >Thanks, > >Jack, >Red Wing, MN > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: N22607(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 11, 2004
Subject: Re: RV8-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 11/10/04
at.a.big.ISP(at)matronics.com Hello all, I am looking for a tail wheel instructor for a friend at either Corona CA or Fullerton CA. this individual is a Student Pilot with a newly purchased Cessna 170A. Bill is 40 yrs old, self employed and has had a bit of trouble locating a CFI with Cessna 170 time to work with him. let me know if you know of someone off list please, n22607(at)aol.com Thanks in advance Joe Gauthier ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 14, 2004
From: jim & terri truitt <jimteri1(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: GRT fuel flow sendor accuracy
I have an 8A 180 horse carb with the GRT fuel flow sensor and an EIS. It's mounted on the engine side of the firewall, no heat shield, and with 150 hours, no problem with it working. Now, for accuracy. The installation instructions specifies a five inch length of straight fuel line before the sensor and a one or two inch straight line after the sensor. We installed mine according to instructions. Then you have to fly several tanks of fuel to figure out the flocal setting. Mine always shows a higher fuel consumption than actual (that's better than showing more fuel than actual). Mine shows about 3 gallons less than actually used per tank full. Not too bad, but I wish it were more acurate than that. I noticed early on that the fuel flow reading would always go up with the fuel pump on, and go down when I turned it off. I spoke to Greg (GRT) about this and he stated I needed to install a dampener in the line before the sensor. I have all metal fuel lines and this is part of the problem with the pulses from the pump causing the variations. As yet, I have not installed the dampener but instead use the electric fuel pump as little as possible. I keep in mind the difference in flow readings and actual use that I know is there (it has been pretty consistent). I am curious to know if the dampener will also produce more acurate flow readings overall, and then bring the "fuel remaining" reading more in line with actual use. Too busy flying I guess or I'd have it done. I also have Van's float type fuel gages. Mine are very accurate when sitting on the ground engine off. They are pretty accurate in the air, although they move around a bit when flying, even in smooth air (expected of course). I originally wanted the flow meter as a more accurate back up to the gages, and I'm still glad I got it. But I have come to trust the Vans gages and I haven't been disappointed yet. I use the fuel gages and the "fuel remaining" reading of the EIS as a cross check on each other. The other thing I like is seeing the flow rate go down when I lean. It gives me a sort of sense of accomplishment, like I'm saving some money, but at nearly 3 bucks a gallon, the fuel bills still sting just the same. Oh well. You know what a hobby is? Something you spend more time and more money on than you should, but you love it anyway. Bottom line - I like the EIS flow meter and the Vans gages. _-===================================================================== _-_-= -- Please Support Your Lists This Month -- _-= (And Get Some AWESOME FREE Gifts!) _-_-= November is the Annual List Fund Raiser. Click on the _-= Contribution link below to find out more about this _-= year's Terrific Free Incentive Gifts provided by the _-= The Builder's Bookstore www.buildersbooks.com! _-_-= List Contribution Web Site _-_-= http://www.matronics.com/contribution _-_-= Thank you for your generous support! _-= -Matt Dralle, List Admin. _-_-===================================================================== _-= - The RV8-List Email Forum - _-= This forum is sponsored entirely through the Contributions _-= of List members. You'll never see banner ads or any other _-= form of direct advertising on the Matronics Forums. _-===================================================================== _-= List Related Information _-= Post Message: rv8-list(at)matronics.com _-= UN/SUBSCRIBE: http://www.matronics.com/subscription _-= List FAQ: http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV8-List.htm _-= Search Engine: http://www.matronics.com/search _-= 7-Day Browse: http://www.matronics.com/browse/rv8-list _-= Browse Digests: http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv8-list _-= Live List Chat: http://www.matronics.com/chat _-= Archives: http://www.matronics.com/archives _-= Photo Share: http://www.matronics.com/photoshare _-= List Specific: http://www.matronics.com/rv8-list _-= Other Lists: http://www.matronics.com/emaillists _-= Trouble Report http://www.matronics.com/trouble-report _-= Contributions: http://www.matronics.com/contribution _-===================================================================== ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Porter" <december29(at)peoplepc.com>
Subject: Dynon remote compasses
Date: Nov 14, 2004
Hi, Where are guys putting the Dynon remote compasses? I have seen in the tail and on the wing access panels but haven't heard of how well they work. Anyone out there with a system working on a -8? Thanks, John Porter _-===================================================================== _-_-= -- Please Support Your Lists This Month -- _-= (And Get Some AWESOME FREE Gifts!) _-_-= November is the Annual List Fund Raiser. Click on the _-= Contribution link below to find out more about this _-= year's Terrific Free Incentive Gifts provided by the _-= The Builder's Bookstore www.buildersbooks.com! _-_-= List Contribution Web Site _-_-= http://www.matronics.com/contribution _-_-= Thank you for your generous support! _-= -Matt Dralle, List Admin. _-_-===================================================================== _-= - The RV8-List Email Forum - _-= This forum is sponsored entirely through the Contributions _-= of List members. You'll never see banner ads or any other _-= form of direct advertising on the Matronics Forums. _-===================================================================== _-= List Related Information _-= Post Message: rv8-list(at)matronics.com _-= UN/SUBSCRIBE: http://www.matronics.com/subscription _-= List FAQ: http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV8-List.htm _-= Search Engine: http://www.matronics.com/search _-= 7-Day Browse: http://www.matronics.com/browse/rv8-list _-= Browse Digests: http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv8-list _-= Live List Chat: http://www.matronics.com/chat _-= Archives: http://www.matronics.com/archives _-= Photo Share: http://www.matronics.com/photoshare _-= List Specific: http://www.matronics.com/rv8-list _-= Other Lists: http://www.matronics.com/emaillists _-= Trouble Report http://www.matronics.com/trouble-report _-= Contributions: http://www.matronics.com/contribution _-===================================================================== ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 15, 2004
Subject: Re: Dynon remote compasses
From: "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com>
My in-the-wing compass module is working well. Haven't calibrated it yet, but it's within 3 degrees. I understand the compass module has to be exchanged if upgrading to the d-10A. Is that true? - Larry Bowen Larry(at)BowenAero.com http://BowenAero.com John Porter said: > > Hi, > Where are guys putting the Dynon remote compasses? I have seen in the > tail and on the wing access panels but haven't heard of how well they > work. Anyone out there with a system working on a -8? > > Thanks, > > John Porter > > > _-===================================================================== > _-> _-= -- Please Support Your Lists This Month -- > _-= (And Get Some AWESOME FREE Gifts!) > _-> _-= November is the Annual List Fund Raiser. Click on the > _-= Contribution link below to find out more about this > _-= year's Terrific Free Incentive Gifts provided by the > _-= The Builder's Bookstore www.buildersbooks.com! > _-> _-= List Contribution Web Site > _-> _-= http://www.matronics.com/contribution > _-> _-= Thank you for your generous support! > _-= -Matt Dralle, List Admin. > _-> _-===================================================================== > _-= - The RV8-List Email Forum - > _-= This forum is sponsored entirely through the Contributions > _-= of List members. You'll never see banner ads or any other > _-= form of direct advertising on the Matronics Forums. > _-===================================================================== > _-= List Related Information > _-= Post Message: rv8-list(at)matronics.com > _-= UN/SUBSCRIBE: http://www.matronics.com/subscription > _-= List FAQ: http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV8-List.htm > _-= Search Engine: http://www.matronics.com/search > _-= 7-Day Browse: http://www.matronics.com/browse/rv8-list > _-= Browse Digests: http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv8-list > _-= Live List Chat: http://www.matronics.com/chat > _-= Archives: http://www.matronics.com/archives > _-= Photo Share: http://www.matronics.com/photoshare > _-= List Specific: http://www.matronics.com/rv8-list > _-= Other Lists: http://www.matronics.com/emaillists > _-= Trouble Report http://www.matronics.com/trouble-report > _-= Contributions: http://www.matronics.com/contribution > _-===================================================================== > > _-===================================================================== _-_-= -- Please Support Your Lists This Month -- _-= (And Get Some AWESOME FREE Gifts!) _-_-= November is the Annual List Fund Raiser. Click on the _-= Contribution link below to find out more about this _-= year's Terrific Free Incentive Gifts provided by the _-= The Builder's Bookstore www.buildersbooks.com! _-_-= List Contribution Web Site _-_-= http://www.matronics.com/contribution _-_-= Thank you for your generous support! _-= -Matt Dralle, List Admin. _-_-===================================================================== _-= - The RV8-List Email Forum - _-= This forum is sponsored entirely through the Contributions _-= of List members. You'll never see banner ads or any other _-= form of direct advertising on the Matronics Forums. _-===================================================================== _-= List Related Information _-= Post Message: rv8-list(at)matronics.com _-= UN/SUBSCRIBE: http://www.matronics.com/subscription _-= List FAQ: http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV8-List.htm _-= Search Engine: http://www.matronics.com/search _-= 7-Day Browse: http://www.matronics.com/browse/rv8-list _-= Browse Digests: http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv8-list _-= Live List Chat: http://www.matronics.com/chat _-= Archives: http://www.matronics.com/archives _-= Photo Share: http://www.matronics.com/photoshare _-= List Specific: http://www.matronics.com/rv8-list _-= Other Lists: http://www.matronics.com/emaillists _-= Trouble Report http://www.matronics.com/trouble-report _-= Contributions: http://www.matronics.com/contribution _-===================================================================== ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Sally and George" <aeronut58(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Wing Jig Available Now
Date: Nov 15, 2004
Some time ago I agreed to sell my wing/empennage jig to someone in El Paso, with avaiability "...about Thanksgiving time." I'm finished with it now, but I've lost the name and phone number of the person who wanted it. If you're out there and still need it, please contact me off-line at (972) 250-2906 or e-mail at aeronut58(at)hotmail.com George Kilishek ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com>
Subject: RV-8 quickbuild fuselage question - drilling forward top skin
Date: Nov 18, 2004
Hello all, I sent this to Van's as well as to the list. Their reply was that the 4-7 rivets had been installed in error by the quick build folks. I am to drill them out, leaving only the keeper rivets and proceed to back drill the holes in the F820 top skin. Keep building. Stephen Soule -----Original Message----- From: Stephen J. Soule Subject: RV-8 quickbuild fuselage question - drilling forward top skin Good Morning, This question is about the RV-8 quick build fuselage. When drilling the F821PP top skin to the forward left side (just aft of the firewall) into the longeron and WD-802-L weldment, should the AN426AD4-7 rivets already in the F820-PP-L skin be drilled out? Should the two AN426AD3-6 keeper rivets be drilled out? How should the F821PP top skin be attached to the underlying WD802-L weldment in this area? Should I drill two or three #40 holes for rivets between the AN426AD4-7 rivets already in place. Can't find the answer on the plans. Stephen Soule RV-8 N222SZ under construction ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Porter" <december29(at)peoplepc.com>
Subject: Microair transponder and Dynon D-10A
Date: Nov 20, 2004
Hi, Has anyone matched these two units up? With the Dynon serial transponder data, do you have to purchase a separate encoder? I will contact Microair again. Thanks. John Porter #80002 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 21, 2004
From: "Ken Simmons" <ken(at)truckstop.com>
Subject: Re: Microair transponder and Dynon D-10A
John, Unless they've recently changed the T2000 transponder you'll need another encoder. The transponder only takes the parallel code and the D10A only outputs a serial signal. Ken ---------- Original Message ---------------------------------- From: "John Porter" <december29(at)peoplepc.com> Date: Sat, 20 Nov 2004 23:24:12 -0800 > >Hi, > Has anyone matched these two units up? With the Dynon serial transponder data, do you have to purchase a separate encoder? I will contact Microair again. Thanks. > >John Porter >#80002 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Elevator Range of Motion/ Control Horn Interference
Date: Nov 22, 2004
From: "Alexander, Don" <Don.Alexander(at)astenjohnson.com>
I am in the process of establishing my elevator control stops and have run into a clearance issue when trying to get the required "up" elevator adjustment. The elevator control horn is hitting the aft-most bulkhead before I am getting to the required 25 degree up travel. Have any of you experienced the same, and if so, is it ok to remove a little bit of the control horn in order to get the horn to bottom out on the control stop instead of the bulkhead? Don Alexander ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RVEIGHTA(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 23, 2004
Subject: Re: Elevator Range of Motion/ Control Horn Interference
Don, I had the same problem with my 8 and my 8A. I had to not only trim the aft edges of the control horn but also had to trim back the control stop. As it is, I'm only getting about 26.5 degrees of up travel. This is in the range but I would have been happier if I could have gotten closer to 30 degrees. Walt Shipley RV-8A flying RV-8 fuselage ________________________________________________________________________________
From: luckymacy(at)comcast.net (lucky)
Subject: fuel flow sensor install & io-360
Date: Nov 24, 2004
Can someone tell me specifically where/how they installed a fuel flow sensor on a 200 hp io-360 cofiguration? I'd really like a picture or two. I can't see installing one inside the fuse once the high pressure fuel pump has been installed per Van's instruction and I can't find a way to 'safely' install fwf forward due to all the rigid aluminum tubing I'd have to use to get the desired straight runs. Surely someone more clever than me has figure it out. Any takers? :-) Thanks in advance, Luckyy Can someone tell me specifically where/how they installed a fuel flow sensor on a 200 hp io-360 cofiguration? I'd really like a picture or two. I can't see installing one inside the fuse once the high pressure fuel pump has been installed per Van's instruction and I can't find a way to 'safely' install fwf forward due to all the rigid aluminum tubing I'd have to use to get the desired straight runs. Surely someone more clever than me has figure it out. Any takers? :-) Thanks in advance, Luckyy ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Speedy11(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 24, 2004
Subject: Insurance Cancellation
FYI, Phoenix Aviation Managers of Dallas, TX cancelled my builders insurance due to "poor loss experience" with RVs. I plan to never use that company again for any type of aircraft. The broker, NationAir Insurance Agency, is working to find other insurance underwriters. Stan Sutterfield Tampa, FL ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Kevin Shannon" <kshannon(at)seanet.com>
Subject: fuel flow sensor install & io-360
Date: Nov 24, 2004
I am thinking through this one myself, since I have the same setup. I am considering not installing the flow meter at all, since I think it really is not necessary for my type of flying. I had one in my RV-9A, it was a neat toy but I still relied more on the float senders, and the fuel pressure. Kevin Shannon -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of lucky Subject: RV8-List: fuel flow sensor install & io-360 Can someone tell me specifically where/how they installed a fuel flow sensor on a 200 hp io-360 cofiguration? I'd really like a picture or two. I can't see installing one inside the fuse once the high pressure fuel pump has been installed per Van's instruction and I can't find a way to 'safely' install fwf forward due to all the rigid aluminum tubing I'd have to use to get the desired straight runs. Surely someone more clever than me has figure it out. Any takers? :-) Thanks in advance, Luckyy ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Paul Schattauer" <chasm711(at)msn.com>
Subject: fuel flow sensor install & io-360
Date: Nov 24, 2004
Luckyy I installed mine by cutting a section out of the flexible line between the FI servo and the mechanical fuel pump. The sensor rests in firesleeve on the induction runners underneath the left cylinders. It's a standard Shadin sensor and works great although I did have to change the K factor to get max accuracy. Paul Schattauer RV8 808PS >From: luckymacy(at)comcast.net (lucky) >Reply-To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com >To: RV-8(at)yahoogroups.com (RV8 List) >Subject: RV8-List: fuel flow sensor install & io-360 >Received: by and from look like IP addresses > > >Can someone tell me specifically where/how they installed a fuel flow >sensor on a 200 hp io-360 cofiguration? I'd really like a picture or two. >I can't see installing one inside the fuse once the high pressure fuel pump >has been installed per Van's instruction and I can't find a way to 'safely' >install fwf forward due to all the rigid aluminum tubing I'd have to use to >get the desired straight runs. Surely someone more clever than me has >figure it out. Any takers? :-) > >Thanks in advance, >Luckyy > >Can someone tell me specifically where/how they installed a fuel flow >sensor on a 200 hp io-360 cofiguration? I'd really like a picture or two. I >can't see installing one inside the fuse once the high pressure fuel pump >has been installed per Van's instruction and I can't find a way to 'safely' >install fwf forward due to all the rigid aluminum tubing I'd have to use to >get the desired straight runs. Surely someone more clever than me has >figure it out. Any takers? :-) > >Thanks in advance, >Luckyy > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 27, 2004
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Lister Comments - Please Support The Lists
Dear Listers, Wow! People have been including some very nice comments along with their Contributions lately! I've included another set of below and will send another set in a couple of days. Guys, I really appreciate your kind words and support. In the last few days, the contributions have really started to come in and its looking like support this year may slightly surpass last year's. There's still a few days left in this year's Fund Raiser, so if you've been waiting until the last minute to make your Contribution, now's the time! Make Your Contribution Today: http://www.matronics.com/contribution Thank you! Matt Dralle Email List Administrator ----------------- More of What Listers Are Saying... -------------------- Every morning 5:30 am, coffee and the "List". It's how I start my day. Robert G. The list is still my favorite aviation magazine. Roger H. Great resource, without the distraction of pop ups and ads! Douglas D. I look forward to my daily list reading almost as much as my coffee! Hal K. Great service! Aaron G. I have made some great friends, because of it! Bob D. Great resource!! Richard S. I learn something of value every time I read the messages. Stan S. Great list! Thomas E. Now that I am close to completion of my [homebuilt], I look back and wonder how I could ever have made it this far without [the Lists]. Jeff O. Outstanding site and administration. Anthony S. Great forum for our projects. Darrel M. I have become a List Addict! George M. A very helpful resource for me. Dennis K. Great for staying up on the latest. Forrest L. Valuable benefit for the users. George A. Great tool for all [builders]. Tony M. Can't tell you how much I appreciate the archives. Ken B. I really enjoy the sharing of information and the "discussions" that come up. Ross S. [The List] reminds us home builders that help is just a few clicks away. Danny W. A great resource! Christopher S. Always a pleasure to support this list! Richard W. Thanks for helping all of us build better aircraft. John P. Great list(s)for data, info and making friends. John S. [The] List has helped me much with my building process. Raimo T. Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551 925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft ________________________________________________________________________________
From: luckymacy(at)comcast.net (lucky)
Subject: Re: [RV-8] Re: fuel flow sensor install & io-360
Date: Nov 28, 2004
http://home.comcast.net/~luckymacy/rv8.html Thanks to all that replied. Here's what I ended up doing. Sensor is mounted on bracket attached to fuse longeron. I can undo the input tube and put it right back on the fuel pump if it ends up not working out. I can also add a dampener if really needed. -------------- Original message -------------- Hey Lucky I doubt very much that I am more clever than you, but I did mount my flow sensor on the engine side of the firewall. My high gascolator is in the left wing root. Fuel comes into the selector, out the gascolator, then froward to the hight pressure pump mounted just in front of the left gear tower. I put a 90 deg fitting through the firewall, then used about 4" of aluminmum tubing to go to the flow sensor. From the other side of the sensor I used the flexible hose to go to the mechanical pump. There is a picture about 1/4 of the way down the page (the one of the left side of the firewall showing the starter relay as well) that shows the flow sensor and the 90 deg fitting. http://rv8bldr.tripod.com/the_engine.html My RMI uMonitor seems to show a steady flow, and I haven't had any problems yet, mind you, I only have 9.7 hours so far ;-) Cheers Mark 80965 --- In RV-8(at)yahoogroups.com, luckymacy(at)c... wrote: > Can someone tell me specifically where/how they installed a fuel flow sensor on a 200 hp io-360 cofiguration? I'd really like a picture or two. I can't see installing one inside the fuse once the high pressure fuel pump has been installed per Van's instruction and I can't find a way to 'safely' install fwf forward due to all the rigid aluminum tubing I'd have to use to get the desired straight runs. Surely someone more clever than me has figure it out. Any takers? :-) > > Thanks in advance, > Luckyy ADVERTISEMENT To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/RV-8/ To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: RV-8-unsubscribe(at)yahoogroups.com http://home.comcast.net/~luckymacy/rv8.html Thanks to all that replied. Here's what I ended up doing. Sensor is mounted on bracket attached to fuse longeron. I can undo the input tube and put it right back on the fuel pump if it ends up not working out. I can also add a dampener if really needed. -------------- Original message -------------- Hey Lucky I doubt very much that I am more clever than you, but I did mount my flow sensor on the engine side of the firewall. My high gascolator is in the left wing root. Fuel comes into the selector, out the gascolator, then froward to the hight pressure pump mounted just in front of the left gear tower. I put a 90 deg fitting through the firewall, then used about 4" of aluminmum tubing to go to the flow sensor. From the other side of the sensor I used the flexible hose to go to the mechanical pump. There is a picture about 1/4 of the way down the page (the one of the left side of the firewall showing the starter relay as well) that shows the flow sensor and the 90 deg fitting. http://rv8bldr.tripod.com/the_engine.h tml My RMI uMonitor seems to show a steady flow, and I haven't had any problems yet, mind you, I only have 9.7 hours so far ;-) Cheers Mark 80965 --- In RV-8(at)yahoogroups.com, luckymacy(at)c... wrote: Can someone tell me specifically where/how they installed a fuel flow sensor on a 200 hp io-360 cofiguration? I'd really like a picture or two. I can't see installing one inside the fuse once the high pressure fuel pump has been installed per Van's instruction and I can't find a way to 'safely' install fwf forward due to all the rigid aluminum tubing I'd have to use to get the desired straight runs. Surely someone more clever than me has figure it out. Any takers? :-) Thanks in advance, Luckyy ADVERTISEMENT http://us.a1.yimg.com/us.yimg.com/a/ne/netflix/111704_1104_f_300250a.gif" width=300 border=0> http://us.adserver.yahoo.com/l?M=298184.5639630.6699735.3001176/D=groups/S=:HM/A=2434970/rand=258642273" width=1> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/RV-8/ To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: RV-8-unsubscribe(at)yahoogroups.com ________________________________________________________________________________ Date: Dec 04, 2004 From: Rodney Daulton <farmerrd(at)sbcglobal.net> Subject: Van's electric tachometer RV8 Friends....I have been having lots of problems with the Van's 2 1/4 in electric tachometer. I have had two sender failures. What if any has been your experience with these tachometers. Thanks very much....Rod Daulton ________________________________________________________________________________ Date: Dec 04, 2004 From: Greg Hunsicker <gh2538(at)cjnetworks.com> Subject: Van's electric tachometer I also have a Vans 2 1/4 electric tach that drops out on long hauls. I purchased a new tach but have not installed it yet. I am unfamiliar with what the sender looks like or where it might be located. I suppose that is actually what my problem is?? Greg -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rodney Daulton Subject: RV8-List: Van's electric tachometer RV8 Friends....I have been having lots of problems with the Van's 2 1/4 in electric tachometer. I have had two sender failures. What if any has been your experience with these tachometers. Thanks very much....Rod Daulton ________________________________________________________________________________ Date: Dec 04, 2004 From: Jonathan Weiswasser <jonweisw(at)rcn.com> Subject: Re: Van's electric tachometer Interesting....I had a failure at about 30h. Have 35h on the new one without problem. how many hours did you get out of each of your senders before they failed? Jon Weiswasser N898JW RV-8 Greg Hunsicker wrote: > >I also have a Vans 2 1/4 electric tach that drops out on long hauls. I >purchased a new tach but have not installed it yet. I am unfamiliar >with what the sender looks like or where it might be located. I suppose
March 30, 2004 - December 05, 2004 RV8-Archive.digest.vol-ag