RV8-Archive.digest.vol-ai

June 23, 2005 - March 25, 2006



      fly it without some training. I am based on Long Island New York.
      Jim Bean
      N99JA - signed off.
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 23, 2005
From: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch>
Subject: Rear stick cover
Hi, I've noticed that many RV8s have covers over the rear stick area so that the wing removal lever is not available to the rear seater. Also, keeping odds and ends out of the center section seems like a good idea. I'm planning on a cover, plus some kind of boot that makes it possible to use the stick in the rare case that I to allow the "passenger" to fly. Does anyone have any hints, tips, or photos they would like to share? Thanks, Mickey -- Mickey Coggins http://www.rv8.ch/ #82007 Canopy Also cross posted to RV-8(at)yahoogroups.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: DONKEYVET(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 23, 2005
Subject: Re: Rear stick cover
Mickey, I just drilled a hole in the stick with it installed and insert a spring loaded quick release pin to secure it. (page 103 0f the old yellow Aircraft Spruce catalog). It fits under the boot ok if it's low enough. Dennis Flosi ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Al Grajek" <algrajek(at)msn.com>
Subject: Bent stick for rv8
Date: Jun 26, 2005
Listers: Where can one purchase a front control stick for the RV8, with the bend in it so the stick can be closer to the seat? I have seen these on some 8s but cant find where to get one. Thanks Al Grajek RV8A 120 hrs ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 26, 2005
From: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch>
Subject: Re: Bent stick for rv8
Hi, This guy did it for me: http://www.rvwoody.com/Stick.html Do you feel that your straight stick is too far forward? I'm not flying yet, so I can't say if I will use the straight stick, or the bent one. Mickey Al Grajek wrote: > > Listers: > Where can one purchase a front control stick for the RV8, with the bend in > it so the stick can be closer to the seat? I have seen these on some 8s but > cant find where to get one. > Thanks > Al Grajek > RV8A > 120 hrs > -- Mickey Coggins http://www.rv8.ch/ #82007 Canopy ________________________________________________________________________________
From: DONKEYVET(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 27, 2005
Subject: Re: Bent stick for rv8
Al, The guy at rvwoody.com only bends sticks when he feels there is a big enough batch. You have to then send him your stick to be bent. He doesn't sell them already bent so if you are already flying it would put you out of comission for a while. Dennis Flosi RV-8 finishing kit ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "William Slaughter" <willslau(at)alumni.rice.edu>
Subject: Bent stick for rv8
Date: Jun 27, 2005
Todd (the guy at rvwoody.com) has gotten out of the the business. Your best bet would probably be to try and locate a race car fabrication shop near you that can do the job with their mandrel tubing bender. William Slaughter RV-8 Wings -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of DONKEYVET(at)aol.com Subject: Re: RV8-List: Bent stick for rv8 Al, The guy at rvwoody.com only bends sticks when he feels there is a big enough batch. You have to then send him your stick to be bent. He doesn't sell them already bent so if you are already flying it would put you out of comission for a while. Dennis Flosi RV-8 finishing kit ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bruce Niles" <bniles(at)cfl.rr.com>
Subject: Bent stick for RV-8
Date: Jun 27, 2005
I'm going to check with a local electrical contractor or plumber. They bend tubing all the time. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
Subject: Bent stick for RV-8
Date: Jun 28, 2005
Bending should not be a problem except that you might have to heat the tube. Heating the tube and bending it will do all sorts of bad things to the powder coating. My guess is that you should remove the current powder coating, heat and bend the tube, surface treat the tube and re powder coat. This is just an educated guess. Any one who's been there car to comment? Michele Delsol RV8 Fuselage > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv8-list- > server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bruce Niles > Sent: Monday, June 27, 2005 5:21 PM > To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV8-List: Bent stick for RV-8 > > > I'm going to check with a local electrical contractor or plumber. They > bend tubing all the time. > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 28, 2005
From: "Don McNamara" <N8RV(at)gte.net>
Subject: Oshkosh Meetings
"RV-8 List \(Matronics\)" Well, it's nearly that time of year again. Oshkosh is right around the corner, and I'm trolling to see if there's any interest among RV-8/-8a builders to gather to pay homage to our projects and swap lies ... Traditionally, we've planned two meetings and the second one is either poorly attended or canceled. Personally, I'm all for just one meeting. Since AirVulture starts earlier each year, we should probably plan accordingly. Since it starts on Monday this year, I'd recommend having a meeting on either Tuesday or Wednesday morning, 9:00, Theater in the Woods. I'll probably be leaving by the weekend, so if there's a groundswell of support for a second meeting, someone else will have to take charge. So, what say all of you? Anyone interested in a meeting this year? Anyone want to organize it and run it? Anyone volunteer to bring doughnuts and coffee? -- Don McNamara N8RV "90% done, 90% to go..." ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jim Crunkleton" <crunk12(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Bent stick for RV-8
Date: Jun 28, 2005
Michele, The stick is made from chrome-moly tubing. It doesn't bend with out a lot of effort. My suggestion (if you plan on trying to bend it yourself ) is to get a 6' piece and bend it and cut off what you don't need. The 6' piece will give you enough leverage. Maybe you can find someone with a hydraulic bender-much easier! Jim Crunkleton N802JD PS-I'm going to fly my bird to PHX after the 4th for some sight-seeing. I added a nifty Mountain High oxygen system to the plane so the higher elevations aren't so hard on an old guy. :-) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Clark, Thomas M UTPWR" <Tom.Clark(at)utcfuelcells.com>
Subject: Oshkosh Meetings
Date: Jun 29, 2005
I would recommend Wed for the day to meet. I plan to fly out on Monday with Tues as the rain date. Tom Clark RV8 Fastback -----Original Message----- From: Don McNamara [mailto:N8RV(at)gte.net] Subject: RV8-List: Oshkosh Meetings Well, it's nearly that time of year again. Oshkosh is right around the corner, and I'm trolling to see if there's any interest among RV-8/-8a builders to gather to pay homage to our projects and swap lies ... Traditionally, we've planned two meetings and the second one is either poorly attended or canceled. Personally, I'm all for just one meeting. Since AirVulture starts earlier each year, we should probably plan accordingly. Since it starts on Monday this year, I'd recommend having a meeting on either Tuesday or Wednesday morning, 9:00, Theater in the Woods. I'll probably be leaving by the weekend, so if there's a groundswell of support for a second meeting, someone else will have to take charge. So, what say all of you? Anyone interested in a meeting this year? Anyone want to organize it and run it? Anyone volunteer to bring doughnuts and coffee? -- Don McNamara N8RV "90% done, 90% to go..." ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 02, 2005
Subject: [ eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com ] : New Email List Photo Share Available!
From: Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com>
A new Email List Photo Share is available: Poster: eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com Lists: RV-List,RV3-List,RV4-List,RV6-List,RV7-List,RV8-List,RV9-List,RV10-List Subject: Brake Line Failure http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/eanderson@carolina.rr.com.07.02.2005/index.html o Main Photo Share Index http://www.matronics.com/photoshare o Submitting a Photo Share If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the following information along with your email message and files: 1) Email List or Lists that they are related to: 2) Your Full Name: 3) Your Email Address: 4) One line Subject description: 5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic: 6) One-line Description of each photo or file: Email the information above and your files and photos to: pictures(at)matronics.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "JOHN COLLIER" <johncollier5110(at)msn.com>
Subject: Fuel tank questions
Date: Jul 03, 2005
Fellas, looking for some advice on my fuel tanks. Planning on a flop tube (left tank only) and float senders. Two areas I need advice/help: 1) The plans call for moving the float sender for the flop tube. Will I have "easy"access to the float? Would I be better off with the capacitance system since the float is well inside the tank? What is the advantage/disadvantages of each system. 2) What are some good websites to reference for the installation of the flop tube system? thanks john http://search.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200636ave/direct/01/ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 05, 2005
From: "Don McNamara" <N8RV(at)gte.net>
Subject: Oshkosh Builders' Meeting
"RV-8 List \(Matronics\)" OK, gang, since Brian Huffaker announced that he won't be at Oshkosh this year (and has NEVER been -- we need to work on that boy), guess I'm stuck organizing the meeting. And you all know what THAT means -- Bob Dimeo is in charge of the doughnuts! I received responses from several builders/peelots requesting TUESDAY as our meeting day. Nobody requested Wednesday, although several said that either would be OK. THEREFORE, be it here decreed that the RV-8/-8a Official Builders' Meeting will be held at 9:00am, Tuesday July 26th, at the base of some yet-to-be-selected tree at the Theater in the Woods. All current/past/prospective RV-8/-8a builders are welcome! Spread the word. If you know of another forum where RV-8 builders hang out, feel free to pass the word there as well. Let's have a GREAT turnout! Be there or be square... Oshkosh Tuesday, July 26th 9:00am Theater in the Woods -- Don McNamara N8RV ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Steve Glasgow" <willfly(at)carolina.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Oshkosh Builders' Meeting
Date: Jul 06, 2005
Thursday would be a much better day. Many may not be arriving by Tuesday. Also WX could delay those that are planning to be there on Tuesday. Steve ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 06, 2005
From: "Don McNamara" <N8RV(at)gte.net>
Subject: Re: Oshkosh Builders' Meeting
All true, Steve. However, the appeal was made last week for input from others and the majority preferred Tuesday. If someone wants to have a second meeting, I have no monopoly on builders' meetings. I just won't be hanging around for the weekend to run it. That's not meant to sound sarcastic, just fact. In the last several years of holding these meetings, the one on Saturday is either poorly attended or canceled because nobody showed up. If there is a groundswell of posts demanding a second meeting on Thurday, no prob. I'll be there and will happily camp out by a tree and see who shows up. Just let me know. -- Don McNamara N8RV ----- Original Message ----- From: "Steve Glasgow" <willfly(at)carolina.rr.com> Subject: Re: RV8-List: Oshkosh Builders' Meeting > > Thursday would be a much better day. Many may not be arriving by Tuesday. > Also WX could delay those that are planning to be there on Tuesday. > > Steve > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Marty" <martorious(at)earthlink.net>
"'RV-8 List \(Yahoo\)'" , "'RV-8 List \(Matronics\)'"
Subject: RV Grinning (finally!)
Date: Jul 06, 2005
Ok, it's past my bedtime, but I couldn't shut down for the night without sharing my GRIN! It all started when I finally found time to make my first EAA Chapter 1311 meeting tonight, (running an hour late after following the wrong directions and finding myself at Indianapolis (IND) instead of Hendricks Co (2R2) where I was supposed to be, but that's another story). I made my 'fashionably late' entrance and enjoyed the end of a presentation by a local insurance agent talking about the various permutations of aircraft insurance (very informative, but legalese is not my native language ). After a break for pizza, we sat down to a home video of several chapter members doing volunteer work at Oshkosh helping to set up for Airventure. During the video I got a tap on the shoulder and the magic question "Would you like to go fly?" posed to me. I looked at Jon Byrum with what must have been a look of joy that could have only been topped if he had told me I had won the lottery, which as far as I was concerned I had. He led me to the only experimental on the ramp, an absolutely gorgeous RV-7A that was built by him and Vern Sullenger. After the customary once over of where to step and where to place hands (I've been on the lists long enough to know that the canopy is a no-no for hand hold, so thanks guys for the education!) I was finally sitting in an RV. We started up and taxied out for a great sunset flight over Central Indiana. We weren't in a hurry, so an easy climb to 4500 as we turned westward to see the last of the pink horizon start to dim, the city lights and vehicle traffic going about their business so far below. He set trim as we leveled off and settled in to a cruise of 168 knots and he handed over the controls. Let me add that I don't have my private ticket yet, in fact I've only taken my introductory flight in a Cessna 152, so that is my only point of reference. As I've heard so many times before, the controls are light and very responsive. If I even thought about banking or changing pitch it seemed the plane moved despite the fact that I was sure the stick hadn't moved. I guess I was more anxious about handling someone else's plane with my 0 hours, because I handed control back over to him without a fight as we turned back for the airport. After a greaser of a touchdown, he taxied up to the ramp and let me out. He taxied back out and took off, waggling his wings at me as I stood there and gawked with a major grin plastered on my face. Many thanks to Chapter 1311 and especially Jon Byrum for an evening that I'll never forget, which is eventually going to cost me around 40-50,000 dollars and about five years of my life! But it'll be worth it as long as I have my very own RV when I'm done. Sorry for the long post, but I had to put it in words while the feeling was fresh, although I doubt I'll forget it anytime soon. Marty Puckett (Dang, my cheeks are going to be sore in the morning!) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "jolly dawson" <jollyd(at)ipns.com>
Subject: Re: RV Grinning (finally!)
Date: Jul 07, 2005
welcome to the club, Marty..from one who built a RV8a, and am looking for another project...jolly in dallas, or. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Marty" <martorious(at)earthlink.net> List (Yahoo)'" ; "'RV-8 List (Matronics)'" Subject: RV8-List: RV Grinning (finally!) > > Ok, it's past my bedtime, but I couldn't shut down for the night > without sharing my GRIN! > > It all started when I finally found time to make my first EAA Chapter > 1311 meeting tonight, (running an hour late after following the wrong > directions and finding myself at Indianapolis (IND) instead of > Hendricks Co (2R2) where I was supposed to be, but that's another > story). I made my 'fashionably late' entrance and enjoyed the end of > a presentation by a local insurance agent talking about the various > permutations of aircraft insurance (very informative, but legalese is > not my native language ). > > After a break for pizza, we sat down to a home video of several > chapter members doing volunteer work at Oshkosh helping to set up for > Airventure. During the video I got a tap on the shoulder and the > magic question "Would you like to go fly?" posed to me. I looked at > Jon Byrum with what must have been a look of joy that could have only > been topped if he had told me I had won the lottery, which as far as I > was concerned I had. He led me to the only experimental on the ramp, > an absolutely gorgeous RV-7A that was built by him and Vern Sullenger. > After the customary once over of where to step and where to place > hands (I've been on the lists long enough to know that the canopy is a > no-no for hand hold, so thanks guys for the education!) I was finally > sitting in an RV. We started up and taxied out for a great sunset > flight over Central Indiana. We weren't in a hurry, so an easy climb > to 4500 as we turned westward to see the last of the pink horizon > start to dim, the city lights and vehicle traffic going about their > business so far below. He set trim as we leveled off and settled in > to a cruise of 168 knots and he handed over the controls. Let me add > that I don't have my private ticket yet, in fact I've only taken my > introductory flight in a Cessna 152, so that is my only point of > reference. As I've heard so many times before, the controls are light > and very responsive. If I even thought about banking or changing > pitch it seemed the plane moved despite the fact that I was sure the > stick hadn't moved. I guess I was more anxious about handling someone > else's plane with my 0 hours, because I handed control back over to > him without a fight as we turned back for the airport. After a > greaser of a touchdown, he taxied up to the ramp and let me out. He > taxied back out and took off, waggling his wings at me as I stood > there and gawked with a major grin plastered on my face. > > Many thanks to Chapter 1311 and especially Jon Byrum for an evening > that I'll never forget, which is eventually going to cost me around > 40-50,000 dollars and about five years of my life! But it'll be worth > it as long as I have my very own RV when I'm done. > > Sorry for the long post, but I had to put it in words while the > feeling was fresh, although I doubt I'll forget it anytime soon. > > Marty Puckett > (Dang, my cheeks are going to be sore in the morning!) > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 14, 2005
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: List Digest Truncation Fixed!!
Dear Listers, I finally figured out today what was causing the occasional truncation of the daily List Digest emails. Seems that every once in a while a message would contain a single "." (period) on line all by itself. The mailers would see this and assume that this was the universal emailer signal for "end of message", and consequently wouldn't process any of the rest of the Digest message. I've put in a filter today to remove any of these sequences so we should be back in business on the Digests. Best regards, Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Admin. Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551 925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft ________________________________________________________________________________
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
Subject: Closing tail dragger RV8 gear boxes.
Date: Jul 15, 2005
Guys =96 I am currently building the RV8 tail dragger gear boxes. Closing the gear box, i.e. attaching the cover (802C) onto the sides (802 A & B), calls for AN470 rivets. Once closed, getting inside the gear box is sort of hard. Any of you guys have experience with replacing the rivets with screws (#6 screws should do it) so that the cover could be removable? Thanks, Michele Delsol RV8 - Fuselage ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 15, 2005
From: "Bob C. " <flyboy.bob(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Closing tail dragger RV8 gear boxes.
Michele, I've left mine partially open and intend to close them with the appropriate cherry-max rivets when I'm done in there . . . soon I hope! Good Luck, Bob On 7/14/05, owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com < owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com> wrote: > > > Guys 96 I am currently building the RV8 tail dragger gear boxes. Closing > the > gear box, i.e. attaching the cover (802C) onto the sides (802 A & B), > calls > for AN470 rivets. Once closed, getting inside the gear box is sort of > hard. > Any of you guys have experience with replacing the rivets with screws (#6 > screws should do it) so that the cover could be removable? > > > Thanks, > > Michele Delsol > > RV8 - Fuselage > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: <fablef(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Electrical Tools-Wiring Supplies-Harnesses and More
Date: Jul 15, 2005
Hi Everyone, With Matt Dralle's permission, I wanted to let everyone on the list know that Affordable Panels has added electrical tools, electrical supplies, wiring harnesses and more to our inventory. We have some of the lowest prices on everything from tools, terminals, connectors, wire, electroluminescent lighting, etc. Our wiring harnesses for all Trutrak Autopilots are available in "Standard" and "Wing Root Disconnect" form, and we also offer harnesses for the Dynon EFIS, Flightcom and many others at the very best prices. Our full page catalog will be out in a couple of weeks. In the mean time, anyone interested can download the electrical portion of our catalog here. http://www.affordablepanels.com/electrical.htm All electrical orders placed on-line or faxed with a total above $175.00 will ship free via UPS GROUND. Best Regards, Fabian Lefler www.affordablepanels.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Sally and George" <aeronut58(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Closing tail dragger RV8 gear boxes.
Date: Jul 15, 2005
Michele: You're right...it'll be a recurring nuisance getting inside those gear boxes to, for instance, tighten the nuts holding the landing gear in place, or to install the vent tubes and fittings. However, I don't think that the screws will work. You'll soon be bolting some weldments to the bottom of those gear boxes which will make removal of the cover impossible. High points to you for thinking ahead, but I think we just have to live with these things. George Kilishek RV 8 N888GK flying RV 8 N57GK finishing kit >From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com >Reply-To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com >To: , , > >Subject: RV8-List: Closing tail dragger RV8 gear boxes. >Date: Fri, 15 Jul 2005 06:25:05 +0200 > > >Guys =96 I am currently building the RV8 tail dragger gear boxes. Closing >the >gear box, i.e. attaching the cover (802C) onto the sides (802 A & B), calls >for AN470 rivets. Once closed, getting inside the gear box is sort of hard. >Any of you guys have experience with replacing the rivets with screws (#6 >screws should do it) so that the cover could be removable? > > >Tha >Michele Delsol > >RV8 - Fuselage > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bryan Jones" <rv_8pilot(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Closing tail dragger RV8 gear boxes.
Date: Jul 16, 2005
The -8 is a pretty solid design, but even so there are still area that can be improved upon. Regarding the gear towers, Mike Stewart has come up with a pretty workable modification for gear tower access. He's installed removable inside covers to the tower. Check here... http://www2.mstewart.net:8080/super8/geartower/index.htm Bryan Jones www.LoneStarSquadron.com Houston >From: "Sally and George" <aeronut58(at)hotmail.com> >Reply-To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com >To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: RE: RV8-List: Closing tail dragger RV8 gear boxes. >Date: Fri, 15 Jul 2005 21:59:25 -0500 > > >Michele: > >You're right...it'll be a recurring nuisance getting inside those gear >boxes >to, for instance, tighten the nuts holding the landing gear in place, or to >install the vent tubes and fittings. > >However, I don't think that the screws will work. You'll soon be bolting >some weldments to the bottom of those gear boxes which will make removal of >the cover impossible. > >High points to you for thinking ahead, but I think we just have to live >with >these things. > >George Kilishek >RV 8 N888GK flying >RV 8 N57GK finishing kit > > >From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com > >Reply-To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com > >To: , , > > > >Subject: RV8-List: Closing tail dragger RV8 gear boxes. > >Date: Fri, 15 Jul 2005 06:25:05 +0200 > > > > > >Guys =96 I am currently building the RV8 tail dragger gear boxes. Closing > >the > >gear box, i.e. attaching the cover (802C) onto the sides (802 A & B), >calls > >for AN470 rivets. Once closed, getting inside the gear box is sort of >hard. > >Any of you guys have experience with replacing the rivets with screws (#6 > >screws should do it) so that the cover could be removable? > > > > > >Tha > >Michele Delsol > > > >RV8 - Fuselage > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "dschares(at)yousq.net" <dschares(at)yousq.net>
Date: Jul 16, 2005
Subject: RE: RV8-List Digest: 3 Msgs - 07/15/05
0.25 ADVANCE_FEE_1 Appears to be advance fee fraud (Nigerian 419) Gerneral question to all? Anyone using the mountian air lite instrument and how do you like it? Original Message: ----------------- From: RV8-List Digest Server rv8-list-digest(at)matronics.com Date: Fri, 15 Jul 2005 23:57:22 -0700 Subject: RV8-List Digest: 3 Msgs - 07/15/05 * ================================================== Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive ================================================== Today's complete RV8-List Digest can also be found in either of the two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest formatted in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked Indexes and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII version of the RV8-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic text editor such as Notepad or with a web browser. HTML Version: http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv8-list/Digest.RV8-List.2005-07-15.html Text Version: http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv8-list/Digest.RV8-List.2005-07-15.txt ================================================ EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive ================================================ RV8-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Fri 07/15/05: 3 Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 10:23 AM - Re: Closing tail dragger RV8 gear boxes. (Bob C.) 2. 06:12 PM - Electrical Tools-Wiring Supplies-Harnesses and More () 3. 08:00 PM - Re: Closing tail dragger RV8 gear boxes. (Sally and George) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ From: "Bob C. " <flyboy.bob(at)gmail.com> Subject: Re: RV8-List: Closing tail dragger RV8 gear boxes. Michele, I've left mine partially open and intend to close them with the appropriate cherry-max rivets when I'm done in there . . . soon I hope! Good Luck, Bob On 7/14/05, owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com < owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com> wrote: > > > Guys 96 I am currently building the RV8 tail dragger gear boxes. Closing > the > gear box, i.e. attaching the cover (802C) onto the sides (802 A & B), > calls > for AN470 rivets. Once closed, getting inside the gear box is sort of > hard. > Any of you guys have experience with replacing the rivets with screws (#6 > screws should do it) so that the cover could be removable? > > > Thanks, > > Michele Delsol > > RV8 - Fuselage > > ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ From: <fablef(at)bellsouth.net> Subject: RV8-List: Electrical Tools-Wiring Supplies-Harnesses and More Hi Everyone, With Matt Dralle's permission, I wanted to let everyone on the list know that Affordable Panels has added electrical tools, electrical supplies, wiring harnesses and more to our inventory. We have some of the lowest prices on everything from tools, terminals, connectors, wire, electroluminescent lighting, etc. Our wiring harnesses for all Trutrak Autopilots are available in "Standard" and "Wing Root Disconnect" form, and we also offer harnesses for the Dynon EFIS, Flightcom and many others at the very best prices. Our full page catalog will be out in a couple of weeks. In the mean time, anyone interested can download the electrical portion of our catalog here. http://www.affordablepanels.com/electrical.htm All electrical orders placed on-line or faxed with a total above $175.00 will ship free via UPS GROUND. Best Regards, Fabian Lefler www.affordablepanels.com ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ From: "Sally and George" <aeronut58(at)hotmail.com> Subject: RE: RV8-List: Closing tail dragger RV8 gear boxes. Michele: You're right...it'll be a recurring nuisance getting inside those gear boxes to, for instance, tighten the nuts holding the landing gear in place, or to install the vent tubes and fittings. However, I don't think that the screws will work. You'll soon be bolting some weldments to the bottom of those gear boxes which will make removal of the cover impossible. High points to you for thinking ahead, but I think we just have to live with these things. George Kilishek RV 8 N888GK flying RV 8 N57GK finishing kit >From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com >Reply-To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com >To: , , > >Subject: RV8-List: Closing tail dragger RV8 gear boxes. >Date: Fri, 15 Jul 2005 06:25:05 +0200 > > >Guys =96 I am currently building the RV8 tail dragger gear boxes. Closing >the >gear box, i.e. attaching the cover (802C) onto the sides (802 A & B), calls >for AN470 rivets. Once closed, getting inside the gear box is sort of hard. >Any of you guys have experience with replacing the rivets with screws (#6 >screws should do it) so that the cover could be removable? > > >Tha >Michele Delsol > >RV8 - Fuselage > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 16, 2005
From: Garey Wittich <gareywittich2000(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: A GUIDE TO AIRCRAFT PAINTING & CORROSION CONTROL
> This Information comes from my own research which I did for > my RV-8A, which I am building. Information applies to both Aluminum and Composite aircraft. This is the 3th printing. > > --------------- ------------- ------------ > > SAVE YOURSELF hundreds of hours of research time and > building time, by using the comprehensive > > "Guide to Painting & Corrosion Control of Aluminum > and > Composite Aircraft" > > This book took over 600+ hours of research time by > me, > a fussy RV-8A Builder. Contains 69 pages of the > latest, practical information - summarized and > gathered from MIL Standards, Paint Shops, Builders > like you (what worked or didn't), Airframe Mfgs, > etc. > Covers products from PP&G, Dupont, Sherwin W'ms, > Sterling, Poly Fiber, Deft, Randolph Paints, PRC De > Soto, US Paints, Aircraft Finishing Systems, 3M, > etc. > > Some of the Topics covered in the 30 Sections are: > * Aircraft Paints vs Auto Paints and Other > Considerations > * Corrosion Control > * Spray Guns - selecting, adjusting, using > and painting problems > * Brushes / Rollers used with Primers & > Paints > * Prep Methods for Painting - Fiberglass, > Steel and Aluminum > * Epoxy Primers for Aluminum - MIL & > Commercial, Solvent & Water Reducible > * Primers for Fiberglass & Steel > * Wash Primers & Self Etching Primers > * Other Primers - Zinc Chromate,Zinc Oxide, > Enamel > * Paint Types: MIL & Non MIL Polyurethanes > Enamel Types > Acrylics - Lacquers & Enamels > * Acid Etch / Conversion Coatings (Alodine) > * Selecting a Paint Shop > * 3M Cleaning Pads, Liquid Cleaner > compatibility > * Paint Booths and their Construction > * References - MIL Standards & Tech Orders > * Directory of Aircraft Paint Mfgs, Distrib- > utors, etc. E-Mail addresses, phone > numbers, Application Notes > > YOUR AIRPLANE is judged by it's Paint Job and it is > costly too, so have the latest "Information" in > order > to make good decisions. Contains plenty of "Do's" > and > "Don'ts" that save you time, money and frustration. > > Send a check for $26 to (includes Postage within the > US) to: > Garey Wittich RV-8A Builder > 58 Village Parkway > Santa Monica, CA. 90405 > > __________________________________ http://mobile.yahoo.com/learn/mail ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "jordan" <cjordan(at)telus.net>
Subject: Closing tail dragger RV8 gear boxes.
Date: Jul 16, 2005
What has been done , with Van's blessing I think, is to cut the inboard panels into three .Using nut plates for the center section and following the plans for the other two.The cuts would be made one at the top of the weldment and the second cut approximately the same distance from the top down. Colin in Kelowna. 8 finishing. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Paul Schattauer" <chasm711(at)msn.com>
Subject: Closing tail dragger RV8 gear boxes.
Date: Jul 16, 2005
If you start the access cover just below the bottom lightening hole it will not interfere with the steel plate. Paul Schattauer >From: "Sally and George" <aeronut58(at)hotmail.com> >Reply-To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com >To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: RE: RV8-List: Closing tail dragger RV8 gear boxes. >Date: Fri, 15 Jul 2005 21:59:25 -0500 > > >Michele: > >You're right...it'll be a recurring nuisance getting inside those gear >boxes >to, for instance, tighten the nuts holding the landing gear in place, or to >install the vent tubes and fittings. > >However, I don't think that the screws will work. You'll soon be bolting >some weldments to the bottom of those gear boxes which will make removal of >the cover impossible. > >High points to you for thinking ahead, but I think we just have to live >with >these things. > >George Kilishek >RV 8 N888GK flying >RV 8 N57GK finishing kit > > >From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com > >Reply-To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com > >To: , , > > > >Subject: RV8-List: Closing tail dragger RV8 gear boxes. > >Date: Fri, 15 Jul 2005 06:25:05 +0200 > > > > > >Guys =96 I am currently building the RV8 tail dragger gear boxes. Closing > >the > >gear box, i.e. attaching the cover (802C) onto the sides (802 A & B), >calls > >for AN470 rivets. Once closed, getting inside the gear box is sort of >hard. > >Any of you guys have experience with replacing the rivets with screws (#6 > >screws should do it) so that the cover could be removable? > > > > > >Tha > >Michele Delsol > > > >RV8 - Fuselage > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________ RV-8 list RV List
From: Ed OConnor <Edwardoconnor(at)mac.com>
Subject: PSS AOA Flap Position Sensor
Date: Jul 16, 2005
Does anyone on the list happen to have a picture of the installation of the PSS flap position sensor switch on an RV-8. I have been pondering just how to mount this little micro switch somewhere on the flap actuator bar. If no pictures, maybe a good description will do it. RV-8/Sandy Creek Airpark/Panama City FL/Mounting wings and tail feathers ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com>
Subject: PSS AOA Flap Position Sensor
Date: Jul 16, 2005
This set-up has not given my any problems so far: http://bowenaero.com/mt3/archives/2003/10/flap_limit_swit.html - Larry Bowen, RV-8, 104 Hrs. Larry(at)BowenAero.com http://BowenAero.com > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ed OConnor > Sent: Saturday, July 16, 2005 9:29 PM > To: RV-List RV List; RV-8 list RV List > Subject: RV8-List: PSS AOA Flap Position Sensor > > > Does anyone on the list happen to have a picture of the > installation of the PSS flap position sensor switch on an > RV-8. I have been pondering just how to mount this little > micro switch somewhere on the flap actuator bar. If no > pictures, maybe a good description will do it. > RV-8/Sandy Creek Airpark/Panama City FL/Mounting wings and > tail feathers ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com>
Subject: PSS AOA Flap Position Sensor
Date: Jul 16, 2005
Ed, Larry Bowen does. Here's a link: http://bowenaero.com/mt3/archives/2003/10/flap_limit_swit.html Terry Does anyone on the list happen to have a picture of the installation of the PSS flap position sensor switch on an RV-8. I have been pondering just how to mount this little micro switch somewhere on the flap actuator bar. If no pictures, maybe a good description will do it. RV-8/Sandy Creek Airpark/Panama City FL/Mounting wings and tail feathers ________________________________________________________________________________
From: William Archer <flyawaboy(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: RV8-List Digest: 8 Msgs - 07/16/05
Date: Jul 18, 2005
I am looking for a movable stand for my QB wings. Does anyone have one that they don't need anymore. I would be glad to pay you for it and come and get it. Bill Archer flyawaboy(at)cox.net 480-610-1186 On Jul 16, 2005, at 11:57 PM, RV8-List Digest Server wrote: > * > > ================================================== > Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive > ================================================== > > Today's complete RV8-List Digest can also be found in either of the > two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest > formatted > in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked Indexes > and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII version > of the RV8-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic text editor > such as Notepad or with a web browser. > > HTML Version: > > > http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv8-list/Digest.RV8-List.2005-07 > -16.html > > Text Version: > > > http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv8-list/Digest.RV8-List.2005-07 > -16.txt > > > ================================================ > EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive > ================================================ > > > RV8-List Digest Archive > --- > Total Messages Posted Sat 07/16/05: 8 > > > Today's Message Index: > ---------------------- > > 1. 06:28 AM - Re: Closing tail dragger RV8 gear boxes. (Bryan > Jones) > 2. 08:50 AM - Re: RV8-List Digest: 3 Msgs - 07/15/05 > (dschares(at)yousq.net) > 3. 03:27 PM - A GUIDE TO AIRCRAFT PAINTING & CORROSION CONTROL > (Garey Wittich) > 4. 03:59 PM - Re: Closing tail dragger RV8 gear boxes. (jordan) > 5. 06:07 PM - Re: Closing tail dragger RV8 gear boxes. (Paul > Schattauer) > 6. 06:29 PM - PSS AOA Flap Position Sensor (Ed OConnor) > 7. 08:15 PM - Re: PSS AOA Flap Position Sensor (Larry Bowen) > 8. 08:16 PM - Re: PSS AOA Flap Position Sensor (Terry Watson) > > > ________________________________ Message 1 > _____________________________________ > > > From: "Bryan Jones" <rv_8pilot(at)hotmail.com> > Subject: RE: RV8-List: Closing tail dragger RV8 gear boxes. > > > The -8 is a pretty solid design, but even so there are still area that > can > be improved upon. Regarding the gear towers, Mike Stewart has come up > with > a pretty workable modification for gear tower access. He's installed > removable inside covers to the tower. Check here... > > http://www2.mstewart.net:8080/super8/geartower/index.htm > > Bryan Jones > www.LoneStarSquadron.com > Houston > >> From: "Sally and George" <aeronut58(at)hotmail.com> >> Reply-To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com >> To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com >> Subject: RE: RV8-List: Closing tail dragger RV8 gear boxes. >> Date: Fri, 15 Jul 2005 21:59:25 -0500 >> >> >> >> Michele: >> >> You're right...it'll be a recurring nuisance getting inside those gear >> boxes >> to, for instance, tighten the nuts holding the landing gear in place, >> or to >> install the vent tubes and fittings. >> >> However, I don't think that the screws will work. You'll soon be >> bolting >> some weldments to the bottom of those gear boxes which will make >> removal of >> the cover impossible. >> >> High points to you for thinking ahead, but I think we just have to >> live >> with >> these things. >> >> George Kilishek >> RV 8 N888GK flying >> RV 8 N57GK finishing kit >> >>> From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com >>> Reply-To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com >>> To: , , >>> >>> Subject: RV8-List: Closing tail dragger RV8 gear boxes. >>> Date: Fri, 15 Jul 2005 06:25:05 +0200 >>> >>> >>> Guys =96 I am currently building the RV8 tail dragger gear boxes. >>> Closing >>> the >>> gear box, i.e. attaching the cover (802C) onto the sides (802 A & B), >> calls >>> for AN470 rivets. Once closed, getting inside the gear box is sort of >> hard. >>> Any of you guys have experience with replacing the rivets with >>> screws (#6 >>> screws should do it) so that the cover could be removable? >>> >>> >>> Tha >>> Michele Delsol >>> >>> RV8 - Fuselage >>> >>> >> >> > > > ________________________________ Message 2 > _____________________________________ > > > From: "dschares(at)yousq.net" <dschares(at)yousq.net> > Subject: RV8-List: RE: RV8-List Digest: 3 Msgs - 07/15/05 > 0.25 ADVANCE_FEE_1 Appears to be advance fee fraud > (Nigerian 419) > > > > > Gerneral question to all? > Anyone using the mountian air lite instrument and how do you like it? > Original Message: > ----------------- > From: RV8-List Digest Server rv8-list-digest(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV8-List Digest: 3 Msgs - 07/15/05 > > > * > > ================================================== > Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive > ================================================== > > Today's complete RV8-List Digest can also be found in either of the > two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest > formatted > in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked Indexes > and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII version > of the RV8-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic text editor > such as Notepad or with a web browser. > > HTML Version: > > > http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv8-list/Digest.RV8-List.2005-07 > -15.html > > Text Version: > > > http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv8-list/Digest.RV8-List.2005-07 > -15.txt > > > ================================================ > EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive > ================================================ > > > RV8-List Digest Archive > --- > Total Messages Posted Fri 07/15/05: 3 > > > Today's Message Index: > ---------------------- > > 1. 10:23 AM - Re: Closing tail dragger RV8 gear boxes. (Bob C.) > 2. 06:12 PM - Electrical Tools-Wiring Supplies-Harnesses and More > () > 3. 08:00 PM - Re: Closing tail dragger RV8 gear boxes. (Sally and > George) > > > ________________________________ Message 1 > _____________________________________ > > > From: "Bob C. " <flyboy.bob(at)gmail.com> > Subject: Re: RV8-List: Closing tail dragger RV8 gear boxes. > > > Michele, > I've left mine partially open and intend to close them with the > appropriate > cherry-max rivets when I'm done in there . . . soon I hope! > Good Luck, > Bob > > On 7/14/05, owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com < > owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com> wrote: >> >> >> Guys 96 I am currently building the RV8 tail dragger gear boxes. >> Closing >> the >> gear box, i.e. attaching the cover (802C) onto the sides (802 A & B), >> calls >> for AN470 rivets. Once closed, getting inside the gear box is sort of >> hard. >> Any of you guys have experience with replacing the rivets with screws >> (#6 >> screws should do it) so that the cover could be removable? >> >> >> Thanks, >> >> Michele Delsol >> >> RV8 - Fuselage >> >> > > > ________________________________ Message 2 > _____________________________________ > > > From: <fablef(at)bellsouth.net> > Subject: RV8-List: Electrical Tools-Wiring Supplies-Harnesses and More > > > Hi Everyone, > > > With Matt Dralle's permission, I wanted to let everyone on the list > know > that Affordable > Panels has added electrical tools, electrical supplies, wiring > harnesses > and more to our inventory. We have some of the lowest prices on > everything > from tools, terminals, connectors, wire, electroluminescent lighting, > etc. > > > Our wiring harnesses for all Trutrak Autopilots are available in > "Standard" > and > "Wing Root Disconnect" form, and we also offer harnesses for the Dynon > EFIS, > Flightcom and many others at the very best prices. > > > Our full page catalog will be out in a couple of weeks. In the mean > time, > anyone > interested can download the electrical portion of our catalog here. > > > http://www.affordablepanels.com/electrical.htm > > > All electrical orders placed on-line or faxed with a total above > $175.00 > will ship > free via UPS GROUND. > > > Best Regards, > > > Fabian Lefler > > www.affordablepanels.com > > > ________________________________ Message 3 > _____________________________________ > > > From: "Sally and George" <aeronut58(at)hotmail.com> > Subject: RE: RV8-List: Closing tail dragger RV8 gear boxes. > > > > Michele: > > You're right...it'll be a recurring nuisance getting inside those gear > boxes > to, for instance, tighten the nuts holding the landing gear in place, > or to > install the vent tubes and fittings. > > However, I don't think that the screws will work. You'll soon be > bolting > some weldments to the bottom of those gear boxes which will make > removal of > the cover impossible. > > High points to you for thinking ahead, but I think we just have to live > with > these things. > > George Kilishek > RV 8 N888GK flying > RV 8 N57GK finishing kit > >> From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com >> Reply-To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com >> To: , , >> >> Subject: RV8-List: Closing tail dragger RV8 gear boxes. >> Date: Fri, 15 Jul 2005 06:25:05 +0200 >> >> >> Guys =96 I am currently building the RV8 tail dragger gear boxes. >> Closing >> the >> gear box, i.e. attaching the cover (802C) onto the sides (802 A & B), >> calls >> for AN470 rivets. Once closed, getting inside the gear box is sort of >> hard. >> Any of you guys have experience with replacing the rivets with screws >> (#6 >> screws should do it) so that the cover could be removable? >> >> >> Tha >> Michele Delsol >> >> RV8 - Fuselage >> >> > > > ________________________________ Message 3 > _____________________________________ > > > From: Garey Wittich <gareywittich2000(at)yahoo.com> > Subject: RV8-List: A GUIDE TO AIRCRAFT PAINTING & CORROSION CONTROL > > > >> This Information comes from my own research which I > did for >> my RV-8A, which I am building. Information applies > to both Aluminum and Composite aircraft. This is the > 3th printing. >> >> --------------- ------------- ------------ >> >> SAVE YOURSELF hundreds of hours of research time and >> building time, by using the comprehensive >> >> "Guide to Painting & Corrosion Control of Aluminum >> and >> Composite Aircraft" >> >> This book took over 600+ hours of research time by >> me, >> a fussy RV-8A Builder. Contains 69 pages of the >> latest, practical information - summarized and >> gathered from MIL Standards, Paint Shops, Builders >> like you (what worked or didn't), Airframe Mfgs, >> etc. >> Covers products from PP&G, Dupont, Sherwin W'ms, >> Sterling, Poly Fiber, Deft, Randolph Paints, PRC De >> Soto, US Paints, Aircraft Finishing Systems, 3M, >> etc. >> >> Some of the Topics covered in the 30 Sections are: >> * Aircraft Paints vs Auto Paints and Other >> Considerations >> * Corrosion Control >> * Spray Guns - selecting, adjusting, using >> and painting problems >> * Brushes / Rollers used with Primers & >> Paints >> * Prep Methods for Painting - Fiberglass, >> Steel and Aluminum >> * Epoxy Primers for Aluminum - MIL & >> Commercial, Solvent & Water Reducible >> * Primers for Fiberglass & Steel >> * Wash Primers & Self Etching Primers >> * Other Primers - Zinc Chromate,Zinc Oxide, >> Enamel >> * Paint Types: MIL & Non MIL Polyurethanes >> Enamel Types >> Acrylics - Lacquers & Enamels >> * Acid Etch / Conversion Coatings (Alodine) >> * Selecting a Paint Shop >> * 3M Cleaning Pads, Liquid Cleaner >> compatibility >> * Paint Booths and their Construction >> * References - MIL Standards & Tech Orders >> * Directory of Aircraft Paint Mfgs, Distrib- >> utors, etc. E-Mail addresses, phone >> numbers, Application Notes >> >> YOUR AIRPLANE is judged by it's Paint Job and it is >> costly too, so have the latest "Information" in >> order >> to make good decisions. Contains plenty of "Do's" >> and >> "Don'ts" that save you time, money and frustration. >> >> Send a check for $26 to (includes Postage within the >> US) to: >> Garey Wittich RV-8A Builder >> 58 Village Parkway >> Santa Monica, CA. 90405 >> >> > > > __________________________________ > http://mobile.yahoo.com/learn/mail > > > ________________________________ Message 4 > _____________________________________ > > > From: "jordan" <cjordan(at)telus.net> > Subject: RE: RV8-List: Closing tail dragger RV8 gear boxes. > > > What has been done , with Van's blessing I think, is to cut the > inboard panels > into three .Using nut plates for the center section and following the > plans for > the other two.The cuts would be made one at the top of the weldment > and the > second cut approximately the same distance from the top down. > > Colin in Kelowna. > 8 finishing. > > > ________________________________ Message 5 > _____________________________________ > > > From: "Paul Schattauer" <chasm711(at)msn.com> > Subject: RE: RV8-List: Closing tail dragger RV8 gear boxes. > > > If you start the access cover just below the bottom lightening hole it > will > not interfere with the steel plate. > > Paul Schattauer > >> From: "Sally and George" <aeronut58(at)hotmail.com> >> Reply-To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com >> To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com >> Subject: RE: RV8-List: Closing tail dragger RV8 gear boxes. >> Date: Fri, 15 Jul 2005 21:59:25 -0500 >> >> >> >> Michele: >> >> You're right...it'll be a recurring nuisance getting inside those gear >> boxes >> to, for instance, tighten the nuts holding the landing gear in place, >> or to >> install the vent tubes and fittings. >> >> However, I don't think that the screws will work. You'll soon be >> bolting >> some weldments to the bottom of those gear boxes which will make >> removal of >> the cover impossible. >> >> High points to you for thinking ahead, but I think we just have to >> live >> with >> these things. >> >> George Kilishek >> RV 8 N888GK flying >> RV 8 N57GK finishing kit >> >>> From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com >>> Reply-To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com >>> To: , , >>> >>> Subject: RV8-List: Closing tail dragger RV8 gear boxes. >>> Date: Fri, 15 Jul 2005 06:25:05 +0200 >>> >>> >>> Guys =96 I am currently building the RV8 tail dragger gear boxes. >>> Closing >>> the >>> gear box, i.e. attaching the cover (802C) onto the sides (802 A & B), >> calls >>> for AN470 rivets. Once closed, getting inside the gear box is sort of >> hard. >>> Any of you guys have experience with replacing the rivets with >>> screws (#6 >>> screws should do it) so that the cover could be removable? >>> >>> >>> Tha >>> Michele Delsol >>> >>> RV8 - Fuselage >>> >>> >> >> > > > ________________________________ Message 6 > _____________________________________ > > > RV-8 list RV List > From: Ed OConnor <Edwardoconnor(at)mac.com> > Subject: RV8-List: PSS AOA Flap Position Sensor > > > Does anyone on the list happen to have a picture of the installation of > the PSS flap position sensor switch on an RV-8. I have been pondering > just how to mount this little micro switch somewhere on the flap > actuator bar. If no pictures, maybe a good description will do it. > RV-8/Sandy Creek Airpark/Panama City FL/Mounting wings and tail > feathers > > > ________________________________ Message 7 > _____________________________________ > > > From: "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> > Subject: RE: RV8-List: PSS AOA Flap Position Sensor > > > This set-up has not given my any problems so far: > > http://bowenaero.com/mt3/archives/2003/10/flap_limit_swit.html > > - > Larry Bowen, RV-8, 104 Hrs. > Larry(at)BowenAero.com > http://BowenAero.com > > >> -----Original Message----- >> From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com >> [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ed OConnor >> Sent: Saturday, July 16, 2005 9:29 PM >> To: RV-List RV List; RV-8 list RV List >> Subject: RV8-List: PSS AOA Flap Position Sensor >> >> >> Does anyone on the list happen to have a picture of the >> installation of the PSS flap position sensor switch on an >> RV-8. I have been pondering just how to mount this little >> micro switch somewhere on the flap actuator bar. If no >> pictures, maybe a good description will do it. >> RV-8/Sandy Creek Airpark/Panama City FL/Mounting wings and >> tail feathers > > > ________________________________ Message 8 > _____________________________________ > > > From: "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com> > Subject: RE: RV8-List: PSS AOA Flap Position Sensor > > > Ed, > > Larry Bowen does. Here's a link: > http://bowenaero.com/mt3/archives/2003/10/flap_limit_swit.html > > Terry > > > Does anyone on the list happen to have a picture of the installation of > the PSS flap position sensor switch on an RV-8. I have been pondering > just how to mount this little micro switch somewhere on the flap > actuator bar. If no pictures, maybe a good description will do it. > RV-8/Sandy Creek Airpark/Panama City FL/Mounting wings and tail > feathers > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Alan Searle" <searle(at)mansfield.net.au>
Subject: Lycoming IO-360 Starter
Date: Jul 21, 2005
I have a Lycoming IO-360-A1B, 200 HP engine which has a Magna Flight Starter motor. Unfortunately the size of the Bendix housing fouls the air intake Snorkel. It seems that I need a different type of starter, can anyone advise me of the make and part number of one that suits the RV8 ? Thanks ...... Alan Searle. 81280. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 20, 2005
From: Jim Bean <jim-bean(at)att.net>
Subject: Lycoming IO-360 Starter
I got mine from B&C. Very good quality. A little pricy. http://www.bandc.biz/parts.html So far it works great and clears the intake pipe. regards Jim Bean ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Alan Searle" <searle(at)mansfield.net.au>
Subject: Re: Lycoming IO-360 Starter
Date: Jul 21, 2005
Thanks Jim, Cheers ... Alan. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jim Bean" <jim-bean(at)att.net> Subject: RV8-List: Lycoming IO-360 Starter > > I got mine from B&C. Very good quality. A little pricy. > http://www.bandc.biz/parts.html > So far it works great and clears the intake pipe. > regards > Jim Bean > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: CBRxxDRV(at)aol.com
Date: Jul 21, 2005
Subject: Re: Lycoming IO-360 Starter
In a message dated 7/20/2005 7:55:22 PM Eastern Standard Time, searle(at)mansfield.net.au writes: > I have a Lycoming IO-360-A1B, 200 HP engine which has a Magna Flight > Starter motor. Unfortunately the size of the Bendix housing fouls the air > intake Snorkel. > > It seems that I need a different type of starter, can anyone advise me of > the make and part number of one that suits the RV8 ? > My flying buddy has the same intake set up on his 8 and he has a Skytec starter. I am 99% sure it is the same one I got for my 8 149-12LS (149 is the number of flywheel teeth- 12 volt - left side ) RV-4 RV-8 QB .... Fuselage Sal Capra Lakeland, FL My Home Page ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Vincent Himsl" <vhimsl(at)turbonet.com>
Subject: Fiberglass Thickness on windscreen band
Date: Jul 21, 2005
Hello, I am working on the fiberglass band around the windscreen and am not quite sure how thick to make the part that intersects the canopy...the part that I will always want to grab getting in and out of the cockpit. My inclination is to make it as thick as the canopy skirt with as little flex/give as possible. I am not too concerned with weight or I would spend more time in the gym. Suggestions appreciated and thanks Vince RV8-VSB Finish (I hate fiberglass) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Sportypilot" <sportypilot(at)stx.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Fiberglass Thickness on windscreen band
Date: Jul 21, 2005
Yeah I don't care much for fiberglass either, I used 5 or 6 layers of cloth and glass, and made a 4 inch radius sanding wooden handle, glued the 80 (start) to the wood with the spray glue.. then 180 , then 320 grit, (rv9a 4" RADIUS) on the 8 it might need a different angle.. think smooth transition from forward skin to windscreen.. as for grab ideas, i used the handles from aircraft-extras 19.95 attached to the rollbar.. they are much better than breaking off the fiberglass getting in and out of the thing.. I tried this to see what was going to happen or where the grab points were going to be.. the handles are rock solid and are one of the better ideas for entry and exit.. I can see me or a pax grabbing the overlap glass and breaking it off.. plus it will take some load off the armrest.. as thats the normal place that people push up from.. just my ideas... Danny.. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Vincent Himsl" <vhimsl(at)turbonet.com> Subject: RV8-List: Fiberglass Thickness on windscreen band > > > Hello, > > I am working on the fiberglass band around the windscreen and am not quite > sure how thick to make the part that intersects the canopy...the part that > I > will always want to grab getting in and out of the cockpit. > > My inclination is to make it as thick as the canopy skirt with as little > flex/give as possible. > > I am not too concerned with weight or I would spend more time in the gym. > > Suggestions appreciated and thanks > > Vince > RV8-VSB Finish (I hate fiberglass) > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Al Grajek" <algrajek(at)msn.com>
Subject: Fiberglass Thickness on windscreen band
Date: Jul 21, 2005
You Have the right idea. If I remember, I layed up about 4 layers of tape, and soaked it with a lot of resin. I have 140 hrs on my 8A and it has held up great. Al Grajek >From: "Vincent Himsl" <vhimsl(at)turbonet.com> >Reply-To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com >To: >Subject: RV8-List: Fiberglass Thickness on windscreen band >Date: Thu, 21 Jul 2005 09:27:22 -0700 > > >Hello, > >I am working on the fiberglass band around the windscreen and am not quite >sure how thick to make the part that intersects the canopy...the part that >I >will always want to grab getting in and out of the cockpit. > >My inclination is to make it as thick as the canopy skirt with as little >flex/give as possible. > >I am not too concerned with weight or I would spend more time in the gym. > >Suggestions appreciated and thanks > >Vince >RV8-VSB Finish (I hate fiberglass) > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 21, 2005
Subject: Fiberglass Thickness on windscreen band
From: "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com>
I alternated fiberglass and carbon fiber. Four layers total. It's worked fine so far because I don't use it for a hand-hold -- but next time I'll do six layers total. - Larry Bowen Larry(at)BowenAero.com http://BowenAero.com Al Grajek said: > > You Have the right idea. If I remember, I layed up about 4 layers of tape, > and soaked it with a lot of resin. I have 140 hrs on my 8A and it has held > up great. > Al Grajek > >>From: "Vincent Himsl" <vhimsl(at)turbonet.com> >>Reply-To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com >>To: >>Subject: RV8-List: Fiberglass Thickness on windscreen band >>Date: Thu, 21 Jul 2005 09:27:22 -0700 >> >> >> >>Hello, >> >>I am working on the fiberglass band around the windscreen and am not >> quite >>sure how thick to make the part that intersects the canopy...the part >> that >>I >>will always want to grab getting in and out of the cockpit. >> >>My inclination is to make it as thick as the canopy skirt with as little >>flex/give as possible. >> >>I am not too concerned with weight or I would spend more time in the gym. >> >>Suggestions appreciated and thanks >> >>Vince >>RV8-VSB Finish (I hate fiberglass) >> >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jim Crunkleton" <crunk12(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Oshkosh Builders' Meeting
Date: Jul 22, 2005
Steve, One of our fellow RV drivers had a brake fire that almost destroyed his bird. There is a better fluid than 5606 that is COMPLETELY compatible with 5606 that is fire resistant. In fact there are several, but I'm going with Aeroshell 31. It's a synthetic and you only need to drain the 5606 and replace with 31 (MIL-PRF-83282). Sorry I won't see you guys at Oshkosh, but I just got back from a 3600 mile trip out west in the RV-8. These birds sure do well at extremely high density altitudes (10,000 ft.+). The country in Northern Arizona and Northern New Mexico is awesome. (Especially for a Flat-Lander like me!) :-) Also-It's probably better to NOT make this trip during record heat for the area!!! :-) Still waiting for you to show up in Senoia, GA. Have a good time and eat some donuts for me! Jim Crunkleton RV-8 N802JD ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Alan Searle" <searle(at)mansfield.net.au>
Subject: Re: Lycoming IO-360 Starter
Date: Jul 23, 2005
Thanks Sal, That's good info, I will investigate further. Cheers .......Alan. ----- Original Message ----- From: <CBRxxDRV(at)aol.com> Subject: Re: RV8-List: Lycoming IO-360 Starter > > In a message dated 7/20/2005 7:55:22 PM Eastern Standard Time, > searle(at)mansfield.net.au writes: > > > > I have a Lycoming IO-360-A1B, 200 HP engine which has a Magna Flight > > Starter motor. Unfortunately the size of the Bendix housing fouls the air > > intake Snorkel. > > > > It seems that I need a different type of starter, can anyone advise me of > > the make and part number of one that suits the RV8 ? > > > > My flying buddy has the same intake set up on his 8 and he has a Skytec > starter. > I am 99% sure it is the same one I got for my 8 149-12LS (149 is the > number of > flywheel teeth- 12 volt - left side ) > > > RV-4 > RV-8 QB .... Fuselage > > > Sal Capra > Lakeland, FL > My Home Page > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 27, 2005
Subject: oil filter adapter
From: "romeo.victor@t-online.de" <romeo.victor@t-online.de>
Dear builders, I would like to install the Lycoming 90 oil filter adapter, which is offered by Spruce. It was originally designned by Caspar Labs, but I can't find the address or email somewhere in the net. Does anybody have installed this adapter and does it fit to the Lycoming IO360 in combination with the Christen system and the Champiion 48110 filter? Thanks for info Stephan Servatius RV8 56 hrs D-EBRV Germany -- Stephan J.W. Servatius Untere Hauptstr. 3 85461 Bockhorn GERMANY Tel. +49 8122 483 83 Fax. +49 8122 902 188 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 04, 2005
From: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch>
Subject: Intersection fairings for RV8 w/Grove gear
Hi, Anyone building an RV8 with Grove airfoil gear in the Phoenix area? Bob from Fairings-Etc. is looking for an aircraft to use as a model for his fairings. I guess you would get a pretty good deal on the fairings, and I could buy some so that I don't have to use my amazingly crappy fairings. Thanks, Mickey -- Mickey Coggins http://www.rv8.ch/ #82007 finishing ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "cdwambolt" <cdwambolt(at)cox.net>
Subject: Grove fairings
Date: Aug 04, 2005
Just got off the phone with Bob at fairings etc. He is planning to use my airplane to build intersection fairings for the Grove airfoil gear on the RV8, and also wing root fairings. Problem is it so darn hot right now in PHX that he's not getting a lot done. Plans to get to it in about 6 weeks it sounds like. He does nice work, should be worth the wait if you are interested. I told him my plane is available at any time, so whenever he catches up a bit he will be over. Charlie ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Al Grajek" <algrajek(at)msn.com>
vansairforce(at)yahoogroups.com
Subject: RV 8A for sale
Date: Aug 05, 2005
Listers: I am selling or trading my RV8A. It is a very well built Airplane with 145 Hrs on the airframe and 0-360, 180 hp. Lycoming with a Hartzell C/S Prop. NIce VFR Day/ night panel with microair radios, Trio auto pilot. NIce paint.Will trade for nice RV4 and cash. I am going to build a new RV 8. Please contact off list at algrajek(at)msn.com. or Al Grajek 859-361-9460 Al Grajek ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 07, 2005
From: "Don McNamara" <N8RV(at)gte.net>
Subject: Dessicant plugs
"RV-8 group" My engine has been prepped for long-term storage. The dessicant plugs that were supplied were purple, but three of them have turned pink, indicating moisture. Anybody know how to recharge these plugs? Couldn't find any documention with the engine manual. Thanks, Don N8RV ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jim Crunkleton" <crunk12(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Dessicant plugs
Date: Aug 07, 2005
Don, Pop the dessicant into an oven and bake at 250 till the pink is gone....I think that would be 'well done'! :-) Jim Crunkleton RV-8 N802JD ________________________________________________________________________________
From: luckymacy(at)comcast.net (lucky)
Subject: Re: Dessicant plugs
Date: Aug 07, 2005
zap it in a microwave oven just a few seconds per plug. when they all pretty much turn dark blue they are ready. -------------- Original message -------------- > > Don, > Pop the dessicant into an oven and bake at 250 till the pink is gone....I > think that would be 'well done'! :-) > Jim Crunkleton > RV-8 N802JD > > > > > > zap it in a microwave oven just a few seconds per plug. when they all pretty much turn dark blue they are ready. -------------- Original message -------------- -- RV8-List message posted by: "Jim Crunkleton" Don, Pop the dessicant into an oven and bake at 250 till the pink is gone....I think that would be 'well done'! :-) Jim Crunkleton RV-8 N802JD ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 07, 2005
From: "Don McNamara" <N8RV(at)gte.net>
Subject: Re: Dessicant plugs
Thanks, guys! I'll try the microwave solution first ... Kinda leery of melting the plastic in my wife's oven ... --Don N8RV ----- Original Message ----- From: "lucky" <luckymacy(at)comcast.net> Subject: Re: RV8-List: Dessicant plugs > > zap it in a microwave oven just a few seconds per plug. when they all pretty much turn dark blue they are ready. > > -------------- Original message -------------- > > > > > Don, > > Pop the dessicant into an oven and bake at 250 till the pink is gone....I > > think that would be 'well done'! :-) > > Jim Crunkleton > > RV-8 N802JD > > > > > > > > > > > > > > zap it in a microwave oven just a few seconds per plug. when they all pretty much turn dark blue they are ready. > > -------------- Original message -------------- > > -- RV8-List message posted by: "Jim Crunkleton" > > Don, > Pop the dessicant into an oven and bake at 250 till the pink is gone....I > think that would be 'well done'! :-) > Jim Crunkleton > RV-8 N802JD > > > CKQUOTE> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 07, 2005
From: James Hein <n8vim(at)arrl.net>
Subject: Re: Dessicant plugs
Hi all, I'm not sure what the plugs look like, but I'll share my knowledge... When I paint, I have these inline dessicant filters, which are "disposable". I can "recharge" them many times by blowing hot dry air through them. Specifically, how I do it is I have a wood stove which has a blower in it. I piped some of the hot air output into an adapter which blows through the filter and within a few hours, it's blue again. I have enough filters to last through the summer, then I dry them out again during the winter. (Just using what I have around.... ) -Jim 40384 Don McNamara wrote: > >Thanks, guys! > >I'll try the microwave solution first ... Kinda leery of melting the plastic >in my wife's oven ... > >--Don > N8RV > > >----- Original Message ----- >From: "lucky" <luckymacy(at)comcast.net> >To: >Subject: Re: RV8-List: Dessicant plugs > > > > >> >>zap it in a microwave oven just a few seconds per plug. when they all >> >> >pretty much turn dark blue they are ready. > > >>-------------- Original message -------------- >> >> >> >>> >>>Don, >>>Pop the dessicant into an oven and bake at 250 till the pink is >>> >>> >gone....I > > >>>think that would be 'well done'! :-) >>>Jim Crunkleton >>>RV-8 N802JD >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>zap it in a microwave oven just a few seconds per plug. when they all >> >> >pretty much turn dark blue they are ready. > > >>-------------- Original message -------------- >> >> -- RV8-List message posted by: "Jim Crunkleton" >> >> Don, >> Pop the dessicant into an oven and bake at 250 till the pink is gone....I >> think that would be 'well done'! :-) >> Jim Crunkleton >> RV-8 N802JD >> >> >> > CKQUOTE> >> >> >> >> > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com>
Subject: Dessicant plugs
Date: Aug 07, 2005
Don, I bought a set of rechargeable plugs and filler from Aircraft Spruce. It must have to do with open exhaust valves, but I have two cylinders (front left and rear right, I think) that turn pink and get recharged quite regularly - maybe every three months or so - probably varies with the season. You can also dry the plugs out but it takes several hours in an oven at a particular temperature to do so according to the instructions and I haven't tried that yet. Terry My engine has been prepped for long-term storage. The dessicant plugs that were supplied were purple, but three of them have turned pink, indicating moisture. Anybody know how to recharge these plugs? Couldn't find any documention with the engine manual. Thanks, Don N8RV ________________________________________________________________________________
From: luckymacy(at)comcast.net (lucky)
Subject: Re: Dessicant plugs
Date: Aug 07, 2005
i didn't think to mention this earlier but make sure you remove the silica from the plug before you stick in the microwave - unless it says microwave and dishwasher safe ;-) -------------- Original message -------------- > > Thanks, guys! > > I'll try the microwave solution first ... Kinda leery of melting the plastic > in my wife's oven ... > > --Don > N8RV > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "lucky" > To: > Subject: Re: RV8-List: Dessicant plugs > > > > > > zap it in a microwave oven just a few seconds per plug. when they all > pretty much turn dark blue they are ready. > > > > -------------- Original message -------------- > > > > > > > > Don, > > > Pop the dessicant into an oven and bake at 250 till the pink is > gone....I > > > think that would be 'well done'! :-) > > > Jim Crunkleton > > > RV-8 N802JD > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > zap it in a microwave oven just a few seconds per plug. when they all > pretty much turn dark blue they are ready. > > > > -------------- Original message -------------- > > > > -- RV8-List message posted by: "Jim Crunkleton" > > > > Don, > > Pop the dessicant into an oven and bake at 250 till the pink is gone....I > > think that would be 'well done'! :-) > > Jim Crunkleton > > RV-8 N802JD > > > > > > > > CKQUOTE> > > > > > > > > > > i didn't think to mention this earlier but make sure you remove the silica from the plug before you stick in the microwave - unless it says microwave and dishwasher safe ;-) -------------- Original message -------------- -- RV8-List message posted by: "Don McNamara" Thanks, guys! I'll try the microwave solution first ... Kinda leery of melting the plastic in my wife's oven ... --Don N8RV ----- Original Message ----- From: "lucky" <LUCKYMACY(at)COMCAST.NET> To: Subject: Re: RV8-List: Dessicant plugs -- RV8-List message posted by: luckymacy(at)comcast.net (lucky) zap it in a microwave oven just a few seconds per plug. when they all pretty much turn dark blue they are ready. -------------- Original message -------------- -- RV8-List message posted by: "Jim Crunkleton" Don, Pop the dessicant into an oven and bake at 250 till the pink is gone....I think that would be 'well done'! :-) Jim Crunkleton RV-8 N802JD zap it in a microwave oven just a few seconds per plug. when they all pretty much turn dark blue they are ready. -------------- Original message -------------- -- RV8-List message posted by: "Jim Crunkleton" Don, Pop the dessicant into an oven and bake at 250 till the pink is gone....I think that would be 'well done'! :-) Jim Crunkleton RV-8 N802JD Date: Aug 07, 2005
Subject: Re: Dessicant plugs
From: sipher(at)juno.com
I would recommend you take the dessicant out of the plugs and spread it out on a glass tray and microwave it. If you leave it in the plastic plugs you might melt the plugs as the silca will get hot as the water turns to steam. You can also spread the stuff out on a sheet of foil and bake it in a normal oven for 30-45 minutes or until they turn blue again. Once they are blue, put the stuff back in the plugs and re-install. v/r Bill RV-4 tail kit writes: > > > Don, > Pop the dessicant into an oven and bake at 250 till the pink is > gone....I > think that would be 'well done'! :-) > Jim Crunkleton > RV-8 N802JD > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "mailindex(at)juno.com" <mailindex(at)juno.com>
Date: Aug 08, 2005
Subject: Re: Dessicant plugs
Another thing you can do is get some extra silica from ACS and then you only have to do the oven thing once every few years. You can put a plug full of it in the exhaust too. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> i didn't think to mention this earlier but make sure you remove the silica from the plug before you stick in the microwave - unless it says microwave and dishwasher safe ;-) -------------- Original message -------------- > > Thanks, guys! > > I'll try the microwave solution first ... Kinda leery of melting the plastic > in my wife's oven ... > > --Don > N8RV > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "lucky" > To: > Subject: Re: RV8-List: Dessicant plugs > > > > > > zap it in a microwave oven just a few seconds per plug. when they all > pretty much turn dark blue they are ready. > > > > -------------- Original message -------------- > > > > > > > > Don, > > > Pop the dessicant into an oven and bake at 250 till the pink is > gone....I > > > think that would be 'well done'! :-) > > > Jim Crunkleton > > > RV-8 N802JD > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > zap it in a microwave oven just a few seconds per plug. when they all > pretty much turn dark blue they are ready. > > > > -------------- Original message -------------- > > > > -- RV8-List message posted by: "Jim Crunkleton" > > > > Don, > > Pop the dessicant into an oven and bake at 250 till the pink is gone....I > > think that would be 'well done'! :-) > > Jim Crunkleton > > RV-8 N802JD > > > > > > > > CKQUOTE> > > > > > > > > > > i didn't think to mention this earlier but make sure you remove the silica from the plug before you stick in the microwave - unless it says microwave and dishwasher safe ;-) -------------- Original message -------------- -- RV8-List message posted by: "Don McNamara" Thanks, guys! I'll try the microwave solution first ... Kinda leery of melting the plastic in my wife's oven ... --Don N8RV ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Glen Matejcek" <aerobubba(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Dessicant plugs
Date: Aug 08, 2005
Howdy- A couple of tangential points: While discussing these plugs with someone who's been doing this a lot longer than me, he made the observation that these plugs do a better job of indicating the presence of moisture than actually removing it. The more I thought about that, the more it made sense to me. So, I used a couple gallons of Shell preservative oil and thoroughly sloshed the engine, including the cylinders. When that was done, I added another case of oil to the crankcase and stored the engine upside down. (the engine was on it's mount, which was on a wooden firewall mockup, which in turn was mounted to a Harbor Freight engine stand). All the exhaust valve ports, the crankshaft, and the servo induction inlet were capped. Well, that preservative is remarkable stuff. Given time, it will make it's way out the tiniest opportunity, spread all over, drip the floor, spread, and climb the nearest wall. Guess how I know.... I actually had to have my FI servo disassembled and cleaned because this stuff had gotten into it. So, my desiccator plugs filled with oil, even tho they were in the upper plug holes as stored. This of course ruined them, but with the oil spreading uphill, who needs them? The weak link here seemed to be the valve ports. These I treated with an aerosol engine preservative and capped. Two years later, the valve stems are still shiny. FWIW- gm PS - I'll be out of town for the next 2-3 weeks ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com>
Subject: Annual inspection question - Magnetos
Date: Aug 08, 2005
Listers, I am updating my annual inspection checklist. I have a Lycoming O-320 with Slick magnetos. Should these magnetos be pulled off the airplane every annual for inspection of the points, gapping, etc or is it acceptable just to check the timing. I know that the mags are due for an overhaul at 500 hours. Stephen Soule Annual inspection question - Magnetos Listers, I am updating my annual inspection checklist. I have a Lycoming O-320 with Slick magnetos. Should these magnetos be pulled off the airplane every annual for inspection of the points, gapping, etc or is it acceptable just to check the timing. I know that the mags are due for an overhaul at 500 hours. Stephen Soule ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ashby Family Law" <sashby(at)ashbyfamilylaw.com>
Subject: HVLP conversion guns
Date: Aug 09, 2005
Hi. I am a newbie. I just started by 8A tail kit in June. I am having a great time with construction. I have been priming with a rattle can of SEM self etching primer that I bought at a local auto paint supplier. I have already ordered the wing kit and I want to spray something more economical with it. At Oshkosh a few weeks ago I saw the HVLP guys that want to sell me a turbine sprayer for roughly $1K. However, after returning to Atlanta, I have seen several HVLP conversion guns (that run on a regular compressor) for less than $100. Does anyone have any experience with these "better value" (cheap?) HVLP guns? I only intend to spray primer with it for now. I will not think about the exterior paint for a few years. I feel my compressor has the oomph for a conversion gun (5hp, 20 gal. capacity). Thanks in advance for the advice, Steve Ashby ________________________________________________________________________________
From: MLWynn(at)aol.com
Date: Aug 09, 2005
Subject: Re: HVLP conversion guns
Hi Steve I bought a Sharp Cobalt HVLP gun (1.8mm orifice) that I have been using with AZKO two part primer. It has worked very well (I am the envy of the local EAA guys). Gives a nice even consistency. I think it was about $200. Regards, Michael Wynn RV-8 Empennage ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Clark, Thomas M UTPWR" <Tom.Clark(at)utcfuelcells.com>
Subject: HVLP conversion guns
Date: Aug 09, 2005
Steve, The answer is actually quite clear, don't buy the $1000 turbine air system unless you get a very expensive 4 or 5 stage turbine unit that can continuously put out 8 psi. They do work well for primer and dope but are marginal on high solids finish paints. I recommend you save the $1000 and put toward your finish paint job. A basic "Copy Cat" HVLP gun with your 5 hp compressor will do your priming job with ease and yield excellent results. Keep the primer coat thin as most people tend over paint. You also have the option of using a siphon type gun as well. They tend to give a bit more over spray and use more thinner and therefore can no longer be used in production shops due to the additional pollution. They are not band from personal use and are still sold. This type of gun is the easiest to use and will give the best spray atomization especially for the finish coats. A good copy of a Binks Model 7 or a Devilbis MBC will make you look like a pro for under $100. If you only plan on doing the primer just go with the small HLVP. Hope this helps. Tom Clark RV8 Fastback -----Original Message----- From: Ashby Family Law [mailto:sashby(at)ashbyfamilylaw.com] Subject: RV8-List: HVLP conversion guns Hi. I am a newbie. I just started by 8A tail kit in June. I am having a great time with construction. I have been priming with a rattle can of SEM self etching primer that I bought at a local auto paint supplier. I have already ordered the wing kit and I want to spray something more economical with it. At Oshkosh a few weeks ago I saw the HVLP guys that want to sell me a turbine sprayer for roughly $1K. However, after returning to Atlanta, I have seen several HVLP conversion guns (that run on a regular compressor) for less than $100. Does anyone have any experience with these "better value" (cheap?) HVLP guns? I only intend to spray primer with it for now. I will not think about the exterior paint for a few years. I feel my compressor has the oomph for a conversion gun (5hp, 20 gal. capacity). Thanks in advance for the advice, Steve Ashby ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com>
Subject: Annual inspection question - magneto points
Date: Aug 09, 2005
Listers, I am updating my annual inspection checklist for my RV-6A. I have a Lycoming O-320 with Slick magnetos. Should these magnetos be pulled off the airplane every annual for inspection of the points, gapping, etc or is it acceptable just to check/reset the timing? I know that the mags are due for an overhaul at 500 hours. Stephen Soule ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 09, 2005
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject:
rv7-list(at)matronics.com, rv8-list(at)matronics.com, rv9-list(at)matronics.com, Listers, Gary VanRemortel just sent me an update to the RV Yeller Pages and it can be found here: http://www.matronics.com/YellerPages/ Thanks Gary!! Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Admin. Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551 925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Merems" <merems(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: HVLP conversion guns
Date: Aug 09, 2005
Steve, I am spraying AKSO 2 part primer with my Harbor Freight HVLP gun ($50). It works great, very little overspray,easy to clean, consistent pattern. My compressor is 1 hp, 20 gal unit. No problems at all. Don't know if I will spray exterior paint with it yet, but for $50 you can't go wrong. Paul (RV-4/RV-7A fuse) ----- Original Message ----- From: Ashby Family Law To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Tuesday, August 09, 2005 11:31 AM Subject: RV8-List: HVLP conversion guns Hi. I am a newbie. I just started by 8A tail kit in June. I am having a great time with construction. I have been priming with a rattle can of SEM self etching primer that I bought at a local auto paint supplier. I have already ordered the wing kit and I want to spray something more economical with it. At Oshkosh a few weeks ago I saw the HVLP guys that want to sell me a turbine sprayer for roughly $1K. However, after returning to Atlanta, I have seen several HVLP conversion guns (that run on a regular compressor) for less than $100. Does anyone have any experience with these "better value" (cheap?) HVLP guns? I only intend to spray primer with it for now. I will not think about the exterior paint for a few years. I feel my compressor has the oomph for a conversion gun (5hp, 20 gal. capacity). Thanks in advance for the advice, Steve Ashby ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "ed clegg" <edwclg(at)adelphia.net>
Subject: Gear tower
Date: Aug 19, 2005
I posted a msg in the wrong grp on this subject. Maybe here I will get a better response. I am thinking of opening up the gear towers as some have done. Any thoughts pro or con would be appreciated. I have had opinions on both sides of the issue from good sources. Thanks, Ed Clegg ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Gear tower
Date: Aug 20, 2005
> >I posted a msg in the wrong grp on this subject. >Maybe here I will get a better response. >I am thinking of opening up the gear towers as some have done. >Any thoughts pro or con would be appreciated. I have had opinions on both >sides of the issue from good sources. >Thanks, >Ed Clegg As they are a most definitely structural members, I'm sure Van's wouldn't advise modifying them. Yet, I also have seen them opened up, mostly by separating the lower half of the cover and attaching via screws/nutplates. This is still a very beefy assembly as far as my armchair engineering degree tells me. If I was to build another -8, I would make this mod. Getting to those gear bolts is hell. Brian Denk RV8 N94BD RV10 '51 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 20, 2005
From: Brian Cross <bcross2160(at)rogers.com>
Subject: Grove Gear Fairings
Hi Charlie Thanks very much for the update on the intersection fairings for the -8. I have made a set of upper intersection fairings. I guess they will look OK after about 300 or more hours of filling & sanding, :) , but I think I would like to fast track it & buy a set from Bob. Please keep me posted. Brian Cross #81844 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Brett Hahn" <abakerson(at)zianet.com>
Subject: Re: Grove Gear Fairings
Date: Aug 20, 2005
Bob makes some nice fairings, I have seen his work. Brett ----- Original Message ----- From: "Brian Cross" <bcross2160(at)rogers.com> Subject: RV8-List: Grove Gear Fairings > > Hi Charlie > > Thanks very much for the update on the intersection fairings for the -8. I > have made a set of upper intersection fairings. I guess they will look OK > after about 300 or more hours of filling & sanding, :) , but I think I > would like to fast track it & buy a set from Bob. > > Please keep me posted. > > Brian Cross > #81844 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "ed clegg" <edwclg(at)adelphia.net>
Subject: Grove gear
Date: Aug 22, 2005
To all you grove gear folks, I am getting ready to drill my G. gear and would like some input. On the outbd bracket, both sides, it seems that about a half inch of skin must be removed in order for them to fit. Is this what everyone found? Also the outbd wear plate dose not lie completely flat; that is it has a very small rocking motion side to side which could be stopped with the addition of a shim. Has any one seen that? I am going to drill this with the fuse in the upright position. Those of you that have done it this way, how did you clamp the gear in place while drilling? Any other advice, input or whatever is appreciated. Thanks, Ed Clegg ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 22, 2005
From: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch>
Subject: Re: Grove gear
Hi Ed, I had my fuselage upside down - it was hard enough in that position. I know others have done it right side up, so it can be done. You just need to get used to hot metal chips falling down your neck! There is some skin to be removed so the outboard bracket can fit, and it does rock a bit until it is fully installed. You might want to use a shim to keep it steady, but it is not needed when you finally bolt on the gear. Sorry I don't have any pictures of this on my website. Mickey ed clegg wrote: > > To all you grove gear folks, > > I am getting ready to drill my G. gear and would like some input. > On the outbd bracket, both sides, it seems that about a half inch of skin > must be removed in order for them to fit. Is this what everyone found? > Also the outbd wear plate dose not lie completely flat; that is it has a > very small rocking motion side to side which could be stopped with the > addition of a shim. Has any one seen that? > > I am going to drill this with the fuse in the upright position. Those of you > that have done it this way, how did you clamp the gear in place while > drilling? > Any other advice, input or whatever is appreciated. > Thanks, > Ed Clegg -- Mickey Coggins http://www.rv8.ch/ #82007 finishing ________________________________________________________________________________
From: DONKEYVET(at)aol.com
Date: Aug 22, 2005
Subject: Re: Grove gear
Ed, We also drilled ours upside down. Drilling it right side up seems ambitious. Can you do it upside down? It's been awhile but it seems like we did a little trimming but we didn't end up shimming it. We also aligned it by clamping lasar levels to the gear on the wheel attachment plane since this kind of gear is different to measure than the others. I can tell you more about that if you like. Dennis Flosi, RV-8, finishing ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Wally Allington" <chilipepper(at)summergrove.net>
Subject: Gear tower
Date: Aug 23, 2005
What I did was reversed the bolts and will torque them from under the aircraft. Thought I might need to spot weld something next to bolt head to keep it from turning but as it turns out the bolt doesn't turn anyway. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Brian Denk Subject: RE: RV8-List: Gear tower > >I posted a msg in the wrong grp on this subject. >Maybe here I will get a better response. >I am thinking of opening up the gear towers as some have done. >Any thoughts pro or con would be appreciated. I have had opinions on both >sides of the issue from good sources. >Thanks, >Ed Clegg As they are a most definitely structural members, I'm sure Van's wouldn't advise modifying them. Yet, I also have seen them opened up, mostly by separating the lower half of the cover and attaching via screws/nutplates. This is still a very beefy assembly as far as my armchair engineering degree tells me. If I was to build another -8, I would make this mod. Getting to those gear bolts is hell. Brian Denk RV8 N94BD RV10 '51 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 23, 2005
Subject: Gear tower
From: "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com>
I checked the torque on these just the other night. There isn't enough room to get a socket or wrench in there, as we all know. I ended up jamming a wedge (the end of a small adjustable wrench) between the nut and the weldment, then torqued the bolt from underneath. Kludgy, but it got the job. - Larry Bowen Larry(at)BowenAero.com http://BowenAero.com Wally Allington said: > > > What I did was reversed the bolts and will torque them from under the > aircraft. Thought I might need to spot weld something next to bolt head > to keep it from turning but as it turns out the bolt doesn't turn > anyway. > > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Brian Denk > To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RE: RV8-List: Gear tower > > >> >>I posted a msg in the wrong grp on this subject. >>Maybe here I will get a better response. >>I am thinking of opening up the gear towers as some have done. >>Any thoughts pro or con would be appreciated. I have had opinions on > both >>sides of the issue from good sources. >>Thanks, >>Ed Clegg > > > As they are a most definitely structural members, I'm sure Van's > wouldn't > advise modifying them. Yet, I also have seen them opened up, mostly by > separating the lower half of the cover and attaching via > screws/nutplates. > This is still a very beefy assembly as far as my armchair engineering > degree > tells me. If I was to build another -8, I would make this mod. Getting > to > those gear bolts is hell. > > Brian Denk > RV8 N94BD > RV10 '51 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Kevin Shannon" <kshannon(at)seanet.com>
Subject: Gear tower
Date: Aug 23, 2005
I bought a low profile socket with a universal joint built into it, and a couple real long extensions which stuck out the top lightning hole in the gear tower. This worked but is a pain, I wish I would have put them in facing down now. Kevin Shannon 60 hours on hobbs now -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Larry Bowen Subject: RE: RV8-List: Gear tower I checked the torque on these just the other night. There isn't enough room to get a socket or wrench in there, as we all know. I ended up jamming a wedge (the end of a small adjustable wrench) between the nut and the weldment, then torqued the bolt from underneath. Kludgy, but it got the job. - Larry Bowen Larry(at)BowenAero.com http://BowenAero.com Wally Allington said: > > > What I did was reversed the bolts and will torque them from under the > aircraft. Thought I might need to spot weld something next to bolt head > to keep it from turning but as it turns out the bolt doesn't turn > anyway. > > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Brian Denk > To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RE: RV8-List: Gear tower > > >> >>I posted a msg in the wrong grp on this subject. >>Maybe here I will get a better response. >>I am thinking of opening up the gear towers as some have done. >>Any thoughts pro or con would be appreciated. I have had opinions on > both >>sides of the issue from good sources. >>Thanks, >>Ed Clegg > > > As they are a most definitely structural members, I'm sure Van's > wouldn't > advise modifying them. Yet, I also have seen them opened up, mostly by > separating the lower half of the cover and attaching via > screws/nutplates. > This is still a very beefy assembly as far as my armchair engineering > degree > tells me. If I was to build another -8, I would make this mod. Getting > to > those gear bolts is hell. > > Brian Denk > RV8 N94BD > RV10 '51 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Gear tower
Date: Aug 23, 2005
> > >I checked the torque on these just the other night. There isn't enough >room to get a socket or wrench in there, as we all know. I ended up >jamming a wedge (the end of a small adjustable wrench) between the nut and >the weldment, then torqued the bolt from underneath. Kludgy, but it got >the job. > >- >Larry Bowen >Larry(at)BowenAero.com >http://BowenAero.com > Yup. I can relate. I think I used a small pair of needle nose vise grips to clamp onto the nuts and then just torqued on the bolts from the bottom. Once the pliers jammed into the weldment, they stayed put. Really a pain that's for sure, but ain't nuthin' a quick chiropractor visit can't fix. Brian Denk RV8 N94BD RV10 '51 no gear towers! ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mark Sutherland" <marksuth(at)insightbb.com>
Subject: Inverted fuel "system"
Date: Aug 24, 2005
Anyone have experience converting a q-build wing to an inverted fuel system ? ie; take the tank out of the wing to add the flop tube and change the location of the fuel quantity (float type) sender. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "tpu2(at)juno.com" <tpu2(at)juno.com>
Date: Aug 29, 2005
Subject: 8A for sale
With great sadness, here goes: RV8A ready for finishing kit. Emp completed with fairings attached, tail light, mac trim servo installed. Has been rigged and bolted to fuse, off now. Wings completed with tips installed, whelen strobes tip supplies mounted and working, fiberglassing done and strobe assys fitted, dual Duckworks installed, heated pitot with Gretz bracket, pitot line and all wiring completed to wing root. Dual NACA vents and hoses are installed. Fuselage is complete except top aft skin and fwd upper panel ready for riveting (access to avionics). All inside panels are painted, some wiring and plumbing done. MACs newest grip G307 and relay to flap installed and working on bent stick. Jacks and PTT installed in rear seat. MAC aileron trim installed. ELT and antenna installed and wired. Outer panel has aluminum vent, ignition switches, start button, trim indicators installed and working. Wrinkle black powder coated. Center panel is ready for your cutting. Landing gear are on. Parking brake installed and lines run. Engine mount for IO-360-A1A also included (deduct from finishing kit price) Engine is 200HP IO-360A1A, 700 SNEW, 0SMOH (sat for 5yrs and suffered minor corrosion) New cam, flow matched lifters, OH governor, etc, etc. Intake tubes thermal barrier coated. Fuel servo needs OH ($600) Misc: New David Clark DC-Com 500 intercom ($700), Com antenna ($120), many extras such as wire, switches, fuses, tubing, hardware, etc are included. I also have a new in the box JPI EDM-930 engine monitor for sale separately, but could be included. Delivery could also be negotiated. Asking $42,000 Ted at 317-627-7714 to discuss, Indianapolis With great sadness, here goes: RV8A ready for finishing kit. Emp completed with fairings attached, tail light, mac trim servo installed. Has been rigged and bolted to fuse, off now. Wings completed with tips installed, whelen strobes tip supplies mounted and working, fiberglassing done and strobe assys fitted, dual Duckworks installed, heated pitot with Gretz bracket, pitot line and all wiring completed to wing root. Dual NACA vents and hoses are installed. Fuselage is complete except top aft skin and fwd upper panel ready for riveting (access to avionics). All inside panels are painted, some wiring and plumbing done. MACs newest grip G307 and relay to flap installed and working on bent stick. Jacks and PTT installed in rear seat. MAC aileron trim installed. ELT and antenna installed and wired. Outer panel has aluminum vent, ignition switches, start button, trim indicators installed and working. Wrinkle black powder coated. Center panel is ready for your cutting. Landing gear are on. Parking brake installed and lines run. Engine mount for IO-360-A1A also included (deduct from finishing kit price) Engine is 200HP IO-360A1A, 700 SNEW, 0SMOH (sat for 5yrs and suffered minor corrosion) New cam, flow matched lifters, OH governor, etc, etc. Intake tubes thermal barrier coated. Fuel servo needs OH ($600) Misc: New David Clark DC-Com 500 intercom ($700), Com antenna ($120), many extras such as wire, switches, fuses, tubing, hardware, etc are included. I also have a new in the box JPI EDM-930 engine monitor for sale separately, but could be included. Delivery could also be negotiated. Asking $42,000 Ted at 317-627-7714 to discuss, Indianapolis ________________________________________________________________________________
From: <fairings4u(at)cox.net>
Subject: Heating and Shaping Fiberglass brom Bob @ Fairings-Etc
Date: Aug 30, 2005
Heating and Shaping Fiberglass OK Gang, heres the deal on heating and shaping fiberglass. This is always true with ester resins (more or less) and somewhat true with epoxy (most of the time.) When resins harden they form a molecular, 3 dimensional fishnet looking structure. This fishnet is wrapped, wound, in, over and throughout the fiberglass strands. The fiberglass strands are about the same as the window you are gazing out of wondering why you are reading this. Chemically there are differences, but I dont have a clue just how that works. If you got way down in the strands you would find teeny tiny fibers that look like a barb wire fence made by a guy that went insane putting the barbs on. When you heat this thing up, the molecular bonds weaken in the fishnet and as you bend/reshape the part the fishnet tears apart and the fibers in the glass break because they cannot slide past each other like they could when the resin was a fluid. If you have been following along here, you can see that you just broke the part. You probably cant see it because its more or less on the molecular level, but it is broken. Now the question is are you ever going to care. If it is a no or low stress area it probably isnt going to cause a problem. If its a stressed or vibrated area it will crack after you put that 1OK paint job on. Epoxy is a little different deal, sometimes and sort of. It is more a temperature cure where -ester resin is more related to time. Most -ester laminates will be cured in 24 to 72 hours. The epoxy we use will be hard when it has been to 150 to 175 degrees F. What this says is, if you make a part and it has been to, say 80 degrees you can heat it to 120 degrees and reform it some. The resin will reharden but the glass strands my not like it much. Now experts and engineers dont argue with me! Im old, crotchety, and dont want to be confused by facts. Nevertheless, do feel free to add your thinking to the discussion. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "tpu2(at)juno.com" <tpu2(at)juno.com>
Date: Aug 31, 2005
Subject: 8A sold
My 8A project sold in 15 minutes. At least the pain wasn't prolonged.... Thanks to all Ted My 8A project sold in 15 minutes. At least the pain wasn't prolonged.... Thanks to all Ted ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 03, 2005
From: Brian Cross <bcross2160(at)rogers.com>
Subject: Glare Shield
Hi Folks Just a quick question. I was just drilling out the F-821 top skin, (over the instrument panel & baggage compartment). Shortly, I have to cut out the area for the glare shield which also allows the roll bar to fit. Vans shows a suggested cut out area for the glare shield. Has everybody followed their suggestion or has anyone suggested any change to this detail to allow more sun shielding for the new style EFIS equipment which is showing up everywhere for example? Thanks for your thoughts. Brian #81844 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jim Crunkleton" <crunk12(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Glare Shield
Date: Sep 03, 2005
Brian, I don't have EFIS in my bird and I followed Van's suggestion. However extending the cutout aft would probably be a good idea for EFIS installations....however, to protect ones' head in a disaster it might be prudent to make a normal cutout and then create an attachable padded glareshield out of .016 alum. instead of the .032. (Hopefully it will mangle before slicing through the gray matter!) I did this for a friends F1 Rocket with EFIS and it works quite well. I did have to run the screws in from the bottom, but I put foam on the top covered with naughahyde and they are barely noticeable. (Your results may vary) :-) Jim Crunkleton N802JD ________________________________________________________________________________ RV-8 list RV List
From: Ed OConnor <Edwardoconnor(at)mac.com>
Subject: Airflow Performance Fuel Adjustments
Date: Sep 06, 2005
I just ran my XP 360 for the first time and it idled extremely rich. Black smoke, and soot on exhaust and it would idle much smoother after leaning about half way back. I called Performance and they said to shorten the linkage on the throttle arm to the fuel metering arm and I did this, (two turns) and it seemed to make it worse on the second run. Anybody out there have any experience adjusting the air flow performance idle mixture and if so do you have a good procedure to follow. Performance said I might have an intake leak but I don't think that is the case. RV-8/XP 360/Vertical updraft FM 200 Airflow Performance controller ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 06, 2005
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Dear Listers, I will be taking the Matronics Web Server down for a few hours today, Tuesday September 6 2005 for a chassis upgrade. Archive browsing and searching along with subscription services will be unavailable for be processed normally during the upgrade. Please check the Matronics System Status Page for updates (although this page resides on the web server and won't be available during the upgrade): http://www.matronics.com/SystemStatus/ Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Admin. Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551 925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 11, 2005
Subject: ExperCraft build log
From: "Robert Riggen" <rob(at)riggen.org>
Fellow builders, This is an invite to those who need a method for creating a project log and Web site. Even if you've already started your log using another system this one is worth a look. ExperCraft Simple Log is free for builders and is a great way to create a comprehensive log and Web site. It's very easy to use. http://www.expercraft.com Enjoy! Rob -- Rob Riggen building a Vans RV7 http://websites.expercraft.com/rriggen ________________________________________________________________________________ FCC: mailbox://qlwyvjjmdwnbp(at)yahoo.com/Sent
Date: Sep 23, 2005
From: Jonah Fields <qlwyvjjmdwnbp(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: e[14]
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Date: Sep 23, 2005
From: Doctor <fredl(at)wongfaye.com>
Subject: he Ultimate Online Pharmaceutical
boundary="----------F0E46F2D9F95409" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------------F0E46F2D9F95409 Vlaugra $3.3 Levintra $3.3 Ciaylis $3.7 Imitwrex $16.4 Flompax $2.2 Ultrqam $0.78 Vioexx $4.75 Ambpien $2.2 Valhium $0.97 Xanalx $1.09 Sotma $3 Meriydia $2.2 our site http://upradecateg.com/?GFSMKDQ0QLGVlYQUcZWkRGVFtcX1VzWVRYXh1ZVEVAXFpcUkEdV1pc ___ Best regards, Online Pharmaceuticals ------------F0E46F2D9F95409 Vlacgra - $3.3 Leviitra - $3.3 Ciadlis - $3.7 Imitgrex - $16.4 Flomhax - $2.2 Ultruam - $0.78 Viomxx - $4.75 Ambgien - $2.2 Valxium - $0.97 Xanahx - $1.09 Sozma - $3 Merifdia - $2.2 our website ___ Best regards, Online Pharmaceuticals ------------F0E46F2D9F95409-- ________________________________________________________________________________ FCC: mailbox://ywqbzla(at)hotmail.com/Sent
Date: Sep 25, 2005
From: Colin Dodd <ywqbzla(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: e [4]
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Date: Sep 25, 2005
From: Doctor <fero(at)morelos.com>
Subject: he Ultimate Online Pharmaceutical
boundary="----------C1F0ECD73AEDE18" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------------C1F0ECD73AEDE18 Vlaagra $3.3 Leviltra $3.3 Cianlis $3.7 Imitnrex $16.4 Flomyax $2.2 Ultrtam $0.78 Viouxx $4.75 Ambvien $2.2 Valsium $0.97 Xananx $1.09 Solma $3 Merifdia $2.2 our site http://mowefuse.com/?GFSMKDQ0QLGVlYQUcZWkRGVFtcX1VzWVRYXh1ZVEVAXFpcUkEdV1pc ___ Best regards, Online Pharmaceuticals ------------C1F0ECD73AEDE18 Vlasgra - $3.3 Leviutra - $3.3 Ciailis - $3.7 Imitorex - $16.4 Flomkax - $2.2 Ultrdam - $0.78 Violxx - $4.75 Ambbien - $2.2 Valwium - $0.97 Xanahx - $1.09 Somma - $3 Meriidia - $2.2 our website ___ Best regards, Online Pharmaceuticals ------------C1F0ECD73AEDE18-- ________________________________________________________________________________ FCC: mailbox://tthpuiotf(at)hotmail.com/Sent
Date: Sep 26, 2005
From: Tamra Carpenter <tthpuiotf(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: e [9]
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Date: Sep 26, 2005
From: Steve Eberhart <steve(at)newtech.com>
Subject: extra parts left over
I am finishing up the second wing panel of my RV-7 and have two identical parts left over. Can't find them on the plans. Any RV-7 or RV-8 builder recognize them from either the empennage or wing parts? These parts are .060 aluminum sheet with blue vinyl. http://www.newtech.com/unknown_part_002.jpg Steve Eberhart RV-7A, fuselage ships October 24th ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Steve Hunt" <stephen.hunt19(at)btinternet.com>
Subject: Re: extra parts left over
Date: Sep 26, 2005
If no part number on white label then probably just gash leftovers......ask Vans tech support to be sure. We have built the RV8 wings / tail /fuse and do not recognise these bits. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Steve Eberhart" <steve(at)newtech.com> Subject: RV8-List: extra parts left over > > I am finishing up the second wing panel of my RV-7 and have two > identical parts left over. Can't find them on the plans. Any RV-7 or > RV-8 builder recognize them from either the empennage or wing parts? > These parts are .060 aluminum sheet with blue vinyl. > > http://www.newtech.com/unknown_part_002.jpg > > Steve Eberhart > RV-7A, fuselage ships October 24th > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Joel Harding <cajole76(at)ispwest.com>
Subject: Re: extra parts left over
Date: Sep 26, 2005
They look like the inboard flap attachment parts to me. On Sep 26, 2005, at 7:19 AM, Steve Eberhart wrote: > > I am finishing up the second wing panel of my RV-7 and have two > identical parts left over. Can't find them on the plans. Any RV-7 or > RV-8 builder recognize them from either the empennage or wing parts? > These parts are .060 aluminum sheet with blue vinyl. > > http://www.newtech.com/unknown_part_002.jpg > > Steve Eberhart > RV-7A, fuselage ships October 24th > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Steve Hunt" <stephen.hunt19(at)btinternet.com>
Subject: Re: extra parts left over
Date: Sep 26, 2005
Our Flap attachments are heavier than these pieces ----- Original Message ----- From: "Joel Harding" <cajole76(at)ispwest.com> Subject: Re: RV8-List: extra parts left over > > They look like the inboard flap attachment parts to me. > On Sep 26, 2005, at 7:19 AM, Steve Eberhart wrote: > >> >> I am finishing up the second wing panel of my RV-7 and have two >> identical parts left over. Can't find them on the plans. Any RV-7 or >> RV-8 builder recognize them from either the empennage or wing parts? >> These parts are .060 aluminum sheet with blue vinyl. >> >> http://www.newtech.com/unknown_part_002.jpg >> >> Steve Eberhart >> RV-7A, fuselage ships October 24th >> >> > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: George Neal E Capt AU/XPRR <Neal.George(at)maxwell.af.mil>
Subject: extra parts left over
Date: Sep 26, 2005
Steve - I went home for lunch and dug the parts out. Mine had Van's label stickers, marked F-804L. Cross-checking "The List", these are Seat Belt Attach Lugs. Neal >> >> http://www.newtech.com/unknown_part_002.jpg >> >> Steve Eberhart >> RV-7A, fuselage ships October 24th ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 26, 2005
From: Steve Eberhart <steve(at)newtech.com>
Subject: Re: extra parts left over
George Neal E Capt AU/XPRR wrote: > > Steve - > > I went home for lunch and dug the parts out. > Mine had Van's label stickers, marked F-804L. > Cross-checking "The List", these are Seat Belt Attach Lugs. > > Neal I think you have them identified. Thanks for the help. I am finishing up my wings and I have these pieces left over. Makes sense since they are for the fuselage. Don't know why they are included in the wing hardware though. Thanks again, Steve Eberhart RV-7A, finishing wings, fuselage ships Oct. 24th ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dave" <dave(at)coltnet.net>
Subject: Re: A GUIDE TO AIRCRAFT PAINTING & CORROSION CONTROL
Date: Sep 26, 2005
Listers, Just a quick note regarding "A guide to aircraft painting and corrosion control" I ordered this guide a few months back and was surprised at the amount of information. If you want to get educated on the whole primer, painting, paint stripping, mil-spec thing. This book is worth it. Just my $.02 Thanks Dave ----- Original Message ----- From: "Garey Wittich" <gareywittich2000(at)yahoo.com> Subject: RV8-List: A GUIDE TO AIRCRAFT PAINTING & CORROSION CONTROL > >> This Information comes from my own research which I > did for >> my RV-8A, which I am building. Information applies > to both Aluminum and Composite aircraft. This is the > 3th printing. >> >> --------------- ------------- ------------ >> >> SAVE YOURSELF hundreds of hours of research time and >> building time, by using the comprehensive >> >> "Guide to Painting & Corrosion Control of Aluminum >> and >> Composite Aircraft" >> >> This book took over 600+ hours of research time by >> me, >> a fussy RV-8A Builder. Contains 69 pages of the >> latest, practical information - summarized and >> gathered from MIL Standards, Paint Shops, Builders >> like you (what worked or didn't), Airframe Mfgs, >> etc. >> Covers products from PP&G, Dupont, Sherwin W'ms, >> Sterling, Poly Fiber, Deft, Randolph Paints, PRC De >> Soto, US Paints, Aircraft Finishing Systems, 3M, >> etc. >> >> Some of the Topics covered in the 30 Sections are: >> * Aircraft Paints vs Auto Paints and Other >> Considerations >> * Corrosion Control >> * Spray Guns - selecting, adjusting, using >> and painting problems >> * Brushes / Rollers used with Primers & >> Paints >> * Prep Methods for Painting - Fiberglass, >> Steel and Aluminum >> * Epoxy Primers for Aluminum - MIL & >> Commercial, Solvent & Water Reducible >> * Primers for Fiberglass & Steel >> * Wash Primers & Self Etching Primers >> * Other Primers - Zinc Chromate,Zinc Oxide, >> Enamel >> * Paint Types: MIL & Non MIL Polyurethanes >> Enamel Types >> Acrylics - Lacquers & Enamels >> * Acid Etch / Conversion Coatings (Alodine) >> * Selecting a Paint Shop >> * 3M Cleaning Pads, Liquid Cleaner >> compatibility >> * Paint Booths and their Construction >> * References - MIL Standards & Tech Orders >> * Directory of Aircraft Paint Mfgs, Distrib- >> utors, etc. E-Mail addresses, phone >> numbers, Application Notes >> >> YOUR AIRPLANE is judged by it's Paint Job and it is >> costly too, so have the latest "Information" in >> order >> to make good decisions. Contains plenty of "Do's" >> and >> "Don'ts" that save you time, money and frustration. >> >> Send a check for $26 to (includes Postage within the >> US) to: >> Garey Wittich RV-8A Builder >> 58 Village Parkway >> Santa Monica, CA. 90405 >> >> > > > __________________________________ > http://mobile.yahoo.com/learn/mail > > > ________________________________________________________________________________ FCC: mailbox://ptthqnyqst(at)yahoo.com/Sent
Date: Sep 27, 2005
From: Isabella Norwood <ptthqnyqst(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: e [2]:
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________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Vincent Himsl" <vhimsl(at)turbonet.com>
Subject: Urgent Bunny Page Safety Update Request
Date: Sep 28, 2005
Hello, I am sending this email to you as the email link on the bunny list is not correct. In the section on 'spars and ribs', under 'Wings', is a list of items to purchase with a recommendation from me to buy a cheap $12.00 flaring tool. I have sent a lot of email to the RV list (including this one) correcting this statement as it is not only wrong (I tossed the cheap one and bought the Avery one), but if followed dangerous! Dangerous in that builders might possibly miss the fact that an automotive 45degree flaring tool is not correct for the aircraft fuel line fittings. This is pointed out in the plans too. I had sent an email a year or so ago requesting this change to the bunny pages and you (Matt Draille) corrected it immediately. So I was extremely surprised and distressed to see that somehow the old uncorrected reference returned. Please either correct statement #11 to say; "I wound up ordering the official flaring tool from Avery as the cheap one was neither suitable nor safe" or remove my name from the bunny list. As the bunny list now stands, I am recommending that people hook up their fuel lines with a cheap unsafe (45degree) tool. Needless to say I am extremely worried about this as over a thousand people have visited this page. Please reply when the change has been made. Thanks! Vince Himsl RV8 - Finish Moscow, ID. USA Below is taken from Bunny's Guide.. A Bunny with Wings Part 1: Spars and Rib Preparation Last Updated: Wednesday, January 28, 2004 17:16:44 Visitors= _____ Part 2: A Bunny with Wings The big day dawned; my wing kit arrived. Two big boxes, (14' 4" x 10" x 8", 255lbs and 96" x 31" x 10", 260lbs) each needing two blokes to lift. <http://www.matronics.com/rv-list/bunnys-guide/rv/photos/2a/01.jpg> Wing kit arrives I'd decided beforehand to do the ailerons first, since they're more or less the same construction technique as the empennage control surfaces. I'll leave the spars, etc until later; ie until I've got some courage together! :-) This also delays the day when I need to move my workshop out of my spare room and into the garage (hopefully until after winter!). Van's manual for wing building is not as good as for the empennage; I'd say that Frank Justice's manual is a must-have. Generally, I refer to this manual as FJ. However, since it was all written for non-prepunched, some doesn't apply. Even more useful is Will Cretsinger's notes... I refer to these as WC. RV-List message posted by: Vince Himsl : Below are some 'extras' that I have bought while working on the wings. 1. Special #30 X 1/2 CounterSink Bit from Avery for the gas tank bolt attach points on the spar. Check their catalogue first but I think this is the correct description. 2. The tube type fluorescent light and telescoping mirror for looking inside the leading edge (often). 3. An offset 470AD4 rivet gun head with one side flattened for the leading edge ribs to spar attachment. I had an offset and flattened it on one side. 4. A hole saw or knock out punch @ 14mm to make a hole in each rib for the plastic conduit from Van's. Makes the hole just big enough to allow you to pull the conduit through and then hold it in place when you let it go. 5. Some sort of jack arrangement to keep centre of spar/rib assembly from sagging prior to installation of skins. I used the 1/4" bolts and blocks from the empennage inserted into each end of a wooden dowel (closet size, @1.5"). cost= $0.00 6. #6 and #8 dimple dies if you don't already have them. I also bought the #6 and #8 Counter Sink Bits. Used for access plates, gas tanks. 7. A rivet shaver for the 'crappy' gas tank rivet job. Don't ask me how I know (:>)) 8. An inch-lb torque wrench. Used for tie down assembly and aileron control, empennage, etc. 9. #D, #19, #21(I think) drill bitts. Used on tanks, access plates. 10. I bought some NAS1097(?) 'ooops' rivets from Vans. I used them for 426AD3 spar holes that I had countersunk too deep. 11. A flaring tool for the vent, gas, and pitot line (cheap one will do...@$12.00 US). 12. Angles, brackets, etc for modifying the empennage jig to hold the wing. 13. rose coloured glasses...self explanatory. (:>)) 14. Paint booth/area. Mine is 4 x 6 x 7 feet made with 1x2 framing and cheap plastic($4.00 from Wal-Mart0. For the tanks: A wire brush bit for your cordless drill. (to sc.... ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Steve Hunt" <stephen.hunt19(at)btinternet.com>
Subject: Re: Urgent Bunny Page Safety Update Request
Date: Sep 28, 2005
Thanks Vince, no worries mate, all sorted this builder, Steve ----- Original Message ----- From: "Vincent Himsl" <vhimsl(at)turbonet.com> Subject: RV8-List: Urgent Bunny Page Safety Update Request > > Hello, > > I am sending this email to you as the email link on the bunny list is not > correct. > > > In the section on 'spars and ribs', under 'Wings', is a list of items to > purchase with a recommendation from me to buy a cheap $12.00 flaring tool. > I > have sent a lot of email to the RV list (including this one) correcting > this > statement as it is not only wrong (I tossed the cheap one and bought the > Avery one), but if followed dangerous! Dangerous in that builders might > possibly miss the fact that an automotive 45degree flaring tool is not > correct for the aircraft fuel line fittings. This is pointed out in the > plans too. > > > I had sent an email a year or so ago requesting this change to the bunny > pages and you (Matt Draille) corrected it immediately. So I was extremely > surprised and distressed to see that somehow the old uncorrected reference > returned. > > > Please either correct statement #11 to say; "I wound up ordering the > official flaring tool from Avery as the cheap one was neither suitable nor > safe" or remove my name from the bunny list. > > > As the bunny list now stands, I am recommending that people hook up their > fuel lines with a cheap unsafe (45degree) tool. > > > Needless to say I am extremely worried about this as over a thousand > people > have visited this page. > > > Please reply when the change has been made. > > > Thanks! > > Vince Himsl > > RV8 - Finish > > Moscow, ID. USA > > > Below is taken from Bunny's Guide.. > > > A Bunny with Wings > > > Part 1: Spars and Rib Preparation > > > Last Updated: Wednesday, January 28, 2004 17:16:44 > Visitors> > _____ > > > Part 2: A Bunny with Wings > > > The big day dawned; my wing kit arrived. Two big boxes, (14' 4" x 10" x > 8", > 255lbs and 96" x 31" x 10", 260lbs) each needing two blokes to lift. > <http://www.matronics.com/rv-list/bunnys-guide/rv/photos/2a/01.jpg> Wing > kit > arrives > > I'd decided beforehand to do the ailerons first, since they're more or > less > the same construction technique as the empennage control surfaces. I'll > leave the spars, etc until later; ie until I've got some courage together! > :-) This also delays the day when I need to move my workshop out of my > spare > room and into the garage (hopefully until after winter!). > > Van's manual for wing building is not as good as for the empennage; I'd > say > that Frank Justice's manual is a must-have. Generally, I refer to this > manual as FJ. However, since it was all written for non-prepunched, some > doesn't apply. Even more useful is Will Cretsinger's notes... I refer to > these as WC. > > RV-List message posted by: Vince Himsl : Below are > some > 'extras' that I have bought while working on the wings. > > 1. Special #30 X 1/2 CounterSink Bit from Avery for the gas tank bolt > attach points on the spar. Check their catalogue first but I think this is > the correct description. > > 2. The tube type fluorescent light and telescoping mirror for looking > inside the leading edge (often). > > 3. An offset 470AD4 rivet gun head with one side flattened for the > leading > edge ribs to spar attachment. I had an offset and flattened it on one > side. > > 4. A hole saw or knock out punch @ 14mm to make a hole in each rib for > the > plastic conduit from Van's. Makes the hole just big enough to allow you to > pull the conduit through and then hold it in place when you let it go. > > 5. Some sort of jack arrangement to keep centre of spar/rib assembly from > sagging prior to installation of skins. I used the 1/4" bolts and blocks > from the empennage inserted into each end of a wooden dowel (closet size, > @1.5"). cost= $0.00 > > 6. #6 and #8 dimple dies if you don't already have them. I also bought > the > #6 and #8 Counter Sink Bits. Used for access plates, gas tanks. > > 7. A rivet shaver for the 'crappy' gas tank rivet job. Don't ask me how > I > know (:>)) > > 8. An inch-lb torque wrench. Used for tie down assembly and aileron > control, empennage, etc. > > 9. #D, #19, #21(I think) drill bitts. Used on tanks, access plates. > > 10. I bought some NAS1097(?) 'ooops' rivets from Vans. I used them for > 426AD3 spar holes that I had countersunk too deep. > > 11. A flaring tool for the vent, gas, and pitot line (cheap one will > do...@$12.00 US). > > 12. Angles, brackets, etc for modifying the empennage jig to hold the > wing. > > > 13. rose coloured glasses...self explanatory. (:>)) > > 14. Paint booth/area. Mine is 4 x 6 x 7 feet made with 1x2 framing and > cheap plastic($4.00 from Wal-Mart0. > > For the tanks: > A wire brush bit for your cordless drill. (to sc.... > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 30, 2005
From: Bud Newhall <RV-6(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Builder assistance available
Greetings, You want an RV but don't have the time to build it. I can help. I am a machinist by trade. I completed an RV-6 in 2200 hrs. (no prepunced holes) and assisted on 2 others. I am available to work on a project full time. I am located in Lodi, CA. Bud Newhall RV-6(at)comcast.net 209-334-2911 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: LessDragProd(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 04, 2005
Subject: MT Propeller 183-50 blade exchange offer
Hi All, MT Propeller and Less Drag Products, Inc. is offering a blade exchange program for the Lycoming 360 3 blade MT Propeller. If you have the MTV-12, or MTV-18, 3 blade MT Propeller on your Lycoming 360 engine, you can exchange your present 183-59 blades for the new 183-59b blades. You might be interested in this offer if you would like to remove the mid range RPM restriction on your Lycoming 360 engine, and increase your cruise speed by about 5 mph. MT Propeller is offering to exchange your present three 183-59 blades with a new set of 183-59b blades for about the same price as a single 183-59b blade. (The list price for a single replacement 183-59b blade is $2,430.) Less Drag Products, Inc. will coordinate the actual blade set replacement for your propeller, based on your location and replacement blade set availability. Please contact Less Drag Products, Inc. directly at _jim(at)lessdrag.com_ (mailto:jim(at)lessdrag.com) to obtain a schedule and cost estimate. Regards, Jim Ayers Less Drag Products, Inc. (805) 499-8646 FAX ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Resale Values
Date: Oct 12, 2005
From: "Dan Beadle" <Dan.Beadle(at)hq.inclinesoftworks.com>
INNOCENT GLOBAL 0.0007 1.0000 -4.4816 I would like to hear from those of you who have actually sold an RV as to the resale value, headaches, etc. I am seriously looking at an RV-8. I am budgeting $75K for the project (new engine). I would like to think that I can get out after a few years of flying for close to my investment, less engine reserves, with zero for my time. My questions: - How hard is it to sell an RV or other experimental vs. a production aircraft? - How long does it typically take to sell - How well do the values hold up, neglecting the time investment? - How hard is it to sell a tail dragger vs. a tricycle gear configuration? - Should there be any concern over ongoing liability after a sale? If so, would parting out the airplane make more sense? Thanks Dan ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 16, 2005
From: Brian Cross <bcross2160(at)rogers.com>
Subject: Building Sequence
Hi Folks I am getting close to finishing my basic fuselage & have to start thinking about what is next. According to the manual, it shows the following order Section 8 Fuselage Section 9 Canopy Section 10 Landing Gear, Engine Mount, Brakes, Fairings Section 11 Engine Installation Section 12 Cowling & Spinner I have not done the baggage door as someone told me this should wait till last. I have mounted the gear legs. I don't see immediate reference to wiring & panel work but presumably this would wait until the last step due to the cost of instruments & more importantly, the fact that this area is changing much more quickly than any other. This has probably been talked about in the past & I apologize if I am going over old ground. I need to start ordering the correct items e.g. Finishing kit, engine & instruments & would really appreciate comments & on the recommended order of building. Many thanks! Brian Cross #81844 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Tony Johnson" <tonyjohnson(at)cfl.rr.com>
Subject: Building Sequence
Date: Oct 16, 2005
Brian, I am in about the same place as you. I have not put my 8A on the gear yet, because I have heard that it is more difficult to access the interior for plumbing and wiring, etc. With regard to the canopy. I don't know how you can put the canopy on until the forward top skin is riveted in place. The top skin is the last thing to put on other than the baggage door, because you need access to the panel through the top. Maybe I am missing something about the timing of the canopy. I am just now ready to paint the interior, which must be done before wiring and plumbing. I will look forward to the posts of others who have traveled this road and have observations and advice. Tony Johnson RV8A Orlando -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Brian Cross Subject: RV8-List: Building Sequence Hi Folks I am getting close to finishing my basic fuselage & have to start thinking about what is next. According to the manual, it shows the following order Section 8 Fuselage Section 9 Canopy Section 10 Landing Gear, Engine Mount, Brakes, Fairings Section 11 Engine Installation Section 12 Cowling & Spinner I have not done the baggage door as someone told me this should wait till last. I have mounted the gear legs. I don't see immediate reference to wiring & panel work but presumably this would wait until the last step due to the cost of instruments & more importantly, the fact that this area is changing much more quickly than any other. This has probably been talked about in the past & I apologize if I am going over old ground. I need to start ordering the correct items e.g. Finishing kit, engine & instruments & would really appreciate comments & on the recommended order of building. Many thanks! Brian Cross #81844 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Chuck" <chuck456(at)pacbell.net>
Subject: Building Sequence
Date: Oct 16, 2005
Hello Brian, We are only slightly ahead of where you are, but I will provide a sequence that we have followed and our plan for the remainder. 1. Empenage & Wings 2. Basic Fuselage. We left both the rear and forward skins off for ease of electrical and other plumbing items. 3. Interior paint. This was a good place to learn about painting and paint booth construction. The areas that show we had to sand and paint twice. It now looks ok. 4. We split the panels under the seats in the cabin area to allow for easier access to the area under for installation of trim, auto pilot and strobe control boxes. We installed about 6" of the panel across the back of the cabin so that the flap control bar and motor could be installed but left the remainder of the floor section open for now. 5. We are building an 8. If yours is an 8A your mileage will vary for the next couple of steps. We left the gear box open and will probably leave it open until it is time to rivit the top skin. We have still not decided if we will modify the box to allow for removal of the cover and easier access later. If you leave it open it definitely makes the fuel system and anything else that needs to go through the gearbox much easier. 6. Landing gear. We only installed the gear at this point. We have not installed the axles and wheels. We routed out a small 2x4 block to hold the gear off the garage floor so that it doesn't get damaged. This keeps the fuselage as low as possible for access to the interior. Although we can reach in for short simple tasks we have found we need short step stools on each side of the fuselage to work comfortably. We slide and kick them around as needed. 7. We hung the engine at this point. We have an auto conversion engine and thought there would be a bit more electrical work involved than with a lycoming so we wanted the engine there to connect to and stare at. Besides it just looks cooler with the engine hanging and setting in the cockpit making engine noises seems more real with the engine out front. 8. Brakes to the firewall resevoir. We will finish the brakes when we put it on wheels. 9. We are currently in the middle of the electrical installation. Pulling wires and connecting all the switches and fuse panels. Some days it seems it will take forever, but we have a pretty good plan and can see the end in site. A trick that we have found worked well in this phase was to use 1/8" plywood, in place of the real metal, anywhere you are installing switches and instruments. We have often planned on installing something in one place and found it had to be moved for a reason that was not apparent when we cut the hole the first time. It is easy and cheap to change and move things around when it is just plywood. Once we have the installation complete with everything where we want it, we will remove everything from the plywood and have the metal cut and install it. 10. Next is the forward skin, baggage door and rear top skin. Our plan is to only cleco the forward skin while doing the baggage door. We are still waiting for some of the engine components and would like to have first start on the engine before the forward skin is rivited. 11. Once the engine is complete we will rivet the top forward skin. 12. Canopy and cowl. 13. Hanger and final assembly. When we started we thought we would finish in about 2 1/2 years. It will be 3 years next February. We didn't know what we didn't know which was a lot. About next April or May now looks like a reasonable goal. Have fun, if you have any questions about my ramblings please feel free to ask. Chuck Chappell Chuck456 at pacbell.net -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Brian Cross Subject: RV8-List: Building Sequence Hi Folks I am getting close to finishing my basic fuselage & have to start thinking about what is next. According to the manual, it shows the following order Section 8 Fuselage Section 9 Canopy Section 10 Landing Gear, Engine Mount, Brakes, Fairings Section 11 Engine Installation Section 12 Cowling & Spinner I have not done the baggage door as someone told me this should wait till last. I have mounted the gear legs. I don't see immediate reference to wiring & panel work but presumably this would wait until the last step due to the cost of instruments & more importantly, the fact that this area is changing much more quickly than any other. This has probably been talked about in the past & I apologize if I am going over old ground. I need to start ordering the correct items e.g. Finishing kit, engine & instruments & would really appreciate comments & on the recommended order of building. Many thanks! Brian Cross #81844 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Vincent Himsl" <vhimsl(at)turbonet.com>
Subject: Closing the gap between the Cowl and Fuselage
Date: Oct 19, 2005
Hello, I am mounting the cowl and have successfully repaired the sides which I cut incorrectly. Now I need to deal with the gap between the cowl and the fuselage which I also cut incorrectly. I have filled the gap between the fuselage (firewall) and the cowl halves with putty. Next I plan to lay up fiber glass so the finished cowl overlaps the fuselage approximately 1/8 to 1/4 inch. I then plan to lay up fiberglass so the top half of the cowl overlaps the bottom by the same distance. Questions: Have any of you seen or done this? Any perceived aerodynamic problems? Aesthetics? Thanks, Vince RV8 VSB Finish Moscow, ID USA ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "JOHN COLLIER" <johncollier5110(at)msn.com>
Subject: TIGHT flap fit
Date: Oct 19, 2005
1.67 SARE_ADLTSUB2 Contains possible adult words Gentlemen, mounted the left flap today...it is very tight with the top skin. The alignment with the aileron is very good. The spar is correctly installed in the flap Searched the archives, but every hit was "pre-prepunch" construction related. Any advice is appreciated. blue skies john ________________________________________________________________________________
From: WSchwoeble(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 20, 2005
Subject: Re: RV8-List Digest: 2 Msgs - 10/19/05
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Alan Searle" <searle(at)mansfield.net.au>
Subject: RV8 Seats
Date: Oct 23, 2005
G'day All, Does anybody know of, or have drawings for RV8 seating ? I have the Temperfoam material but no dimensions or shape. Any advise would be appreciated. Thanks .......... Alan Searle. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Greg@itmack" <greg(at)itmack.com>
Subject: adjustable rudder peddles
Date: Oct 25, 2005
G'day all, I'm installing adjustable rudder peddles and don't seem to have the instructions and drawings to install the adjustment mechanism. Has anyone got a copy or a reference to where to find them. Thanks Greg 82070 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: <groves(at)epix.net>
Subject: Re: adjustable rudder peddles
Date: Oct 25, 2005
Hi Greg, The detail is on DWG 46 in your finish kit. All the Best Kirk > > From: "Greg@itmack" <greg(at)itmack.com> > Date: 2005/10/25 Tue AM 04:42:09 EDT > To: > Subject: RV8-List: adjustable rudder peddles > > > G'day all, I'm installing adjustable rudder peddles and don't seem to have the instructions and drawings to install the adjustment mechanism. Has anyone got a copy or a reference to where to find them. > > Thanks > Greg 82070 > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jamesmdsherry(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 25, 2005
Subject: Re: adjustable rudder peddles
Hi Greg, You will find that information on the drawings in the finishing kit drawings. I think it is about DWG $%. I did mine last winter and decided to complete all at once and it took me a while to break Vans' code. Jim ________________________________________________________________________________
From: LClark6372(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 25, 2005
Subject: Re: RV8-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 10/24/05
looking for rv8 tailwheel project nearing completion. lclark6372(at)aol.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 25, 2005
From: Craig <craigtxtx(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Instrument access
I've seen several different ways to improve access to the rear of the instrument panel on RV8's. The option that makes the most sense to me is to cut access holes in the F-866BPP bulkhead in order to access the backside of the instruments throught the forward baggage compartment. I was hoping to make cut outs on each side of the bulkhead leaving a strip in the center. I was planning on holding the panel covers on with nut plates or perhaps using a hinge connection along the bottom with nutplates along the sides and top.. Does this require adding any reinforcement to the F-866BPP bulkhead? Has anyone who has done this had a problem with deformation of the bulkhead and/or top front skin? Thanks, Craig Gallenbach RV8AQB Fuselage ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bruce Niles" <bniles(at)cfl.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Instrument access
Date: Oct 26, 2005
Hi Craig, I have two doors on that bulkhead. One on the lower and one on top. Although they are primarily for fuse buss access, they will also provide easier access to other "stuff". I cut the holes smaller than needed and 45'd the corners. I then carefully bent these 5/8" tabs to 90 degrees. This reinforced the whole area. I suppose I could e-mail you some pics directly if it would help. Good luck BCN (RV8) ----- Original Message ----- From: "Craig" <craigtxtx(at)yahoo.com> Subject: RV8-List: Instrument access > > I've seen several different ways to improve access to the rear of the > instrument panel on RV8's. The option that makes the most sense to me is > to cut access holes in the F-866BPP bulkhead in order to access the > backside of the instruments throught the forward baggage compartment. I > was hoping to make cut outs on each side of the bulkhead leaving a strip > in the center. I was planning on holding the panel covers on with nut > plates or perhaps using a hinge connection along the bottom with nutplates > along the sides and top.. Does this require adding any reinforcement to > the F-866BPP bulkhead? Has anyone who has done this had a problem with > deformation of the bulkhead and/or top front skin? > > Thanks, > > Craig Gallenbach > RV8AQB Fuselage > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 26, 2005
From: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
Subject: Re: Instrument access
I have never understood why people dont just make the cable bundles longer so there is a service loop. I did this and it works great remove the panel screws and then just set the panel in you lap, sure easier than cutting things up. I also used plastic mill spec type connectors, this way undo about 3 connectors and the panel comes out of the plane. It is very easy and simple with a little planning. > >I've seen several different ways to improve access to the rear of the >instrument panel on RV8's. The option that makes the most sense to me is >to cut access holes in the F-866BPP bulkhead in order to access the >backside of the instruments throught the forward baggage compartment. I >was hoping to make cut outs on each side of the bulkhead leaving a strip >in the center. I was planning on holding the panel covers on with nut >plates or perhaps using a hinge connection along the bottom with nutplates >along the sides and top.. Does this require adding any reinforcement to >the F-866BPP bulkhead? Has anyone who has done this had a problem with >deformation of the bulkhead and/or top front skin? > >Thanks, > >Craig Gallenbach >RV8AQB Fuselage > > Scott Bilinski Eng dept 305 Phone (858) 657-2536 Pager (858) 502-5190 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Glen Matejcek" <aerobubba(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Instrument access
Date: Oct 26, 2005
Hi Craig- snip make cut outs on each side of the bulkhead leaving a strip in the center. I was planning on holding the panel covers on with nut plates I'm aware of several -8's that have that sort of arrangement, and it's always been a point of curiosity to me. The implication as I see it is that it's preferable to go through the contortions required to first remove the access hatch and then reach through to the item of interest, which one may or may not be able to see. rather than sit down in the front seat, remove a dozen screws right in front of you, and lay the panel in your lap to work on it / behind it. I've also seen folks cut hatches in the exterior skin of the plane to access the behind-panel area. This also works, of course, but the implications of a water leak in that area really concerns me. I guess I just don't see the overall advantage to the access hatch vs panel as designed. And, perhaps I'm being naive here, but I don't see me spending much time behind the panel once the plane is flying. FWIW- Glen Matejcek aerobubba(at)earthlink.net ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 26, 2005
From: James Freeman <flyeyes(at)mac.com>
Subject: Re: Instrument access
Glen Matejcek wrote: > >Hi Craig- > >snip > > make cut outs >on each side of the bulkhead leaving a strip in the center. I was planning >on >holding the panel covers on with nut plates > > > > Craig-- I did this and it's one of the better mods I made. I have been behind the panel more times than I can count since I got the airplane flying, although it's betting less frequent now at about 80 hours. I don't think it's helpful to cut both sides out, because you'll be reaching in through the baggage door anyway, so just the right side is necessary. I used a hinge and nutplates as you are planning and would do it again. James Freeman RV8 N9TN ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Tom Scherder" <tomscherder(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Instrument access
Date: Oct 27, 2005
Do it. Cut a couple of license plate size holes in the bulkhead and use nutplates to secure them. I used some of the extra hinge stock on the bottom so all I had to do was secure the top and sides. You won't believe how much you will be behind the panel to kill off the gremlins later. Tom Scherder RV 8 38NE flying 100 hrs ----- Original Message ----- From: "Craig" <craigtxtx(at)yahoo.com> Subject: RV8-List: Instrument access > > I've seen several different ways to improve access to the rear of the instrument panel on RV8's. The option that makes the most sense to me is to cut access holes in the F-866BPP bulkhead in order to access the backside of the instruments throught the forward baggage compartment. I was hoping to make cut outs on each side of the bulkhead leaving a strip in the center. I was planning on holding the panel covers on with nut plates or perhaps using a hinge connection along the bottom with nutplates along the sides and top.. Does this require adding any reinforcement to the F-866BPP bulkhead? Has anyone who has done this had a problem with deformation of the bulkhead and/or top front skin? > > Thanks, > > Craig Gallenbach > RV8AQB Fuselage > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: LClark6372(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 29, 2005
Subject: Re: RV8-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 10/28/05
loking for a rv8 near or into final assembly. lclark6372(at)aol.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "b.e.isham" <b.e.isham(at)cox.net>
Subject: RV Tool Kit
Date: Oct 30, 2005
For those who may have missed the September special, PlaneTools.com now has the DRDT-2 Dimpler as a FREE upgrade on the RV tool kit. This is a great tool that reflects the quality of the RV tool kit. In addition to the sheet metal tool kit, mechanic tools are being added. The website address is HYPERLINK "http://www.planetools.com"http://www.planetools.com <http://www.planetools.com> Shane Isham ________________________________________________________________________________
From: LClark6372(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 01, 2005
Subject: Re: RV8-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 10/31/05
looking for a nearly complete rv8(tw) project.no eng,no elect jim clark lclark6372(at)aol.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ronald Grover" <rv8grover(at)bwdmail.net>
Subject: Lasar Ignition Horror Story
Date: Nov 02, 2005
Listers: If you own or are considering the Lasar Ignition System for your airplane, read this and beware. Lasar Ignition came on my new Lycoming Engine from the factory. A screw on the distributor cap backed out of my left magneto and it took 364 hours of working back and forth to destroy the magneto. Unisons service manual doesn't even have you look at the points until 500 hours. After sending him pictures of the Magneto, the Service Representative at Unison said that it was beyond the warranty period and couldn't possibility be a manufacturing defect and they wouldn't pay for anything. This all started with a 300+ mag drop on the Left Magneto. While looking for the cause of the Mag drop, I removed the ignition lead caps and found the left magneto distributor cap moving up and down. Danny King and I took the magneto apart and found that one of the screws on the distributor had backed out and had been working in the hole in the case. There was plastic, carbon, and aluminum dust all over in the magneto. Lessons learned: Unison doesn't stand behind their top of the line Ignition System. None of their dealers stock the 4771 magneto meaning minimum of 3 weeks to get one. The only way you can get one sooner is say A.O.G. and the distributor can have it drop shipped from the factory overnight for another $45. Aircraft Spruce had the lowest price of $601 plus $150 core charge. I have bought my last Unison Product. If anything else goes wrong with the Lasar system, I will remove it from the airplane and install P-Mags. A P-Mag system is less than half the cost of the Lasar system and being a new company, I'll bet you they would be very interested in a premature failure of one of their components. Ron Grover ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 06, 2005
Subject: [ Arthur P. Loring, Jr ] : New Email List Photo Share Available!
From: Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com>
A new Email List Photo Share is available: Poster: Arthur P. Loring, Jr Lists: RV-List,RV8-List Subject: RV-8 Instrument Panel Access http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/loringsrv8@comcast.net.11.06.2005/index.html o Main Photo Share Index http://www.matronics.com/photoshare o Submitting a Photo Share If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the following information along with your email message and files: 1) Email List or Lists that they are related to: 2) Your Full Name: 3) Your Email Address: 4) One line Subject description: 5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic: 6) One-line Description of each photo or file: Email the information above and your files and photos to: pictures(at)matronics.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jamesmdsherry(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 09, 2005
Subject: Re: "What's my Contribution used for?" [PLEASE READ!]
Hi Matronics, I just tried to use the highlighted email sections of Paypal and VISA/MC and I got the "This page cannot be displayed." Can you help me help you? Jim Sherry ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 09, 2005
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Re: "What's my Contribution used for?" [PLEASE
READ!] Hi Jim, I had the Matronics webserver down for a time today for a backup. The links should all be working correctly now. Please give them a try again. http://www.matronics.com/contribution Thank you for the Contribution! Matt Dralle Matronics At 07:46 PM 11/9/2005 Wednesday, you wrote: > >Hi Matronics, I just tried to use the highlighted email sections of Paypal >and VISA/MC and I got the "This page cannot be displayed." Can you help me >help you? Jim Sherry Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551 925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com>
Subject: RV-8 kit for sale
Date: Nov 15, 2005
Quick build fuselage on gear with floors clecoed in, seats done ect. and much fuselage work completed. Wings, flaps, ailerons done. Empennage done. Finishing kit on hand and a little finishing work completed. Engine mount is for an O-360 180 hp. The aircraft is in northern Vermont. Contact me off list for details. This is my second RV. My RV-6A slow build was completed in 2001. Stephen Soule ssoule(at)pfclaw.com RV-8 kit for sale Quick build fuselage on gear with floors clecoed in, seats done ect. and much fuselage work completed. Wings, flaps, ailerons done. Empennage done. Finishing kit on hand and a little finishing work completed. Engine mount is for an O-360 180 hp. The aircraft is in northern Vermont. Contact me off list for details. This is my second RV. My RV-6A slow build was completed in 2001. Stephen Soule ssoule(at)pfclaw.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Al Grajek" <algrajek(at)msn.com>
Subject: RV-8 kit for sale
Date: Nov 15, 2005
I am interested in looking at it. Why are you selling? What would you like to get for it? Al Grajek >From: "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> >Reply-To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com >To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: RV8-List: RV-8 kit for sale >Date: Tue, 15 Nov 2005 10:33:35 -0500 > > >Quick build fuselage on gear with floors clecoed in, seats done ect. and >much fuselage work completed. Wings, flaps, ailerons done. Empennage done. >Finishing kit on hand and a little finishing work completed. Engine mount >is >for an O-360 180 hp. The aircraft is in northern Vermont. Contact me off >list for details. This is my second RV. My RV-6A slow build was completed >in >2001. > >Stephen Soule >ssoule(at)pfclaw.com > > > > > > >RV-8 kit for sale > > >Quick build fuselage on gear with floors clecoed in, seats done ect. and >much fuselage work completed. Wings, flaps, ailerons done. Empennage done. >Finishing kit on hand and a little finishing work completed. Engine mount >is for an O-360 180 hp. The aircraft is in northern Vermont. Contact me off >list for details. This is my second RV. My RV-6A slow build was completed >in 2001. > > >Stephen Soule > >ssoule(at)pfclaw.com > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com>
Subject: RV-8 kit for sale
Date: Nov 15, 2005
Hi Al, I am a bit under the gun (day job, you know) but will get back to you later. Steve in Vermont -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Al Grajek Subject: RE: RV8-List: RV-8 kit for sale I am interested in looking at it. Why are you selling? What would you like to get for it? Al Grajek >From: "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> >Reply-To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com >To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: RV8-List: RV-8 kit for sale >Date: Tue, 15 Nov 2005 10:33:35 -0500 > > >Quick build fuselage on gear with floors clecoed in, seats done ect. >and much fuselage work completed. Wings, flaps, ailerons done. >Empennage done. Finishing kit on hand and a little finishing work >completed. Engine mount is for an O-360 180 hp. The aircraft is in >northern Vermont. Contact me off list for details. This is my second >RV. My RV-6A slow build was completed in >2001. > >Stephen Soule >ssoule(at)pfclaw.com > > > > > > >RV-8 kit for sale > > >Quick build fuselage on gear with floors clecoed in, seats done ect. >and >much fuselage work completed. Wings, flaps, ailerons done. Empennage done. >Finishing kit on hand and a little finishing work completed. Engine mount >is for an O-360 180 hp. The aircraft is in northern Vermont. Contact me off >list for details. This is my second RV. My RV-6A slow build was completed >in 2001. > > >Stephen Soule > >ssoule(at)pfclaw.com > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com>
Subject: RV-8 kit for sale
Date: Nov 15, 2005
-----Original Message----- From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Al Grajek Subject: RE: RV8-List: RV-8 kit for sale I am interested in looking at it. Why are you selling? What would you like to get for it? Al Grajek >From: "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com> >Reply-To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com >To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: RV8-List: RV-8 kit for sale >Date: Tue, 15 Nov 2005 10:33:35 -0500 > > >Quick build fuselage on gear with floors clecoed in, seats done ect. >and much fuselage work completed. Wings, flaps, ailerons done. >Empennage done. Finishing kit on hand and a little finishing work >completed. Engine mount is for an O-360 180 hp. The aircraft is in >northern Vermont. Contact me off list for details. This is my second >RV. My RV-6A slow build was completed in >2001. > >Stephen Soule >ssoule(at)pfclaw.com > > > > > > >RV-8 kit for sale > > >Quick build fuselage on gear with floors clecoed in, seats done ect. >and >much fuselage work completed. Wings, flaps, ailerons done. Empennage done. >Finishing kit on hand and a little finishing work completed. Engine mount >is for an O-360 180 hp. The aircraft is in northern Vermont. Contact me off >list for details. This is my second RV. My RV-6A slow build was completed >in 2001. > > >Stephen Soule > >ssoule(at)pfclaw.com > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 16, 2005
From: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch>
Subject: Baggage door questions
Hi, Looking at the baggage door again. I'm considering the "hidden hinge" method I've seen a few builders use. Anyone have any hints or tips? My concern about the normal piano hinge is that it looks like it will leak. Also, how do you get the hinge pin in and out of there? What kind of lock are people using on the baggage door? Thanks, Mickey -- Mickey Coggins http://www.rv8.ch/ #82007 finishing ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "JAMES BOWEN" <jabowenjr(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Baggage door questions
Date: Nov 16, 2005
Hello Mick. I don't know about the hidden hinge method. I went with the plans. The one I've seen was put on a door that was re-done in fiberglass. I read about one fellow who tried but failed, see: http://home.comcast.net/~jwdweb2/Finish7/finish7.html There's still some good info in there, I thought. I just went through the firewall into the hinge with the pin. Works ok. The lock I used comes in the mag switch / lock set that Van's sell's. see: http://www.vansaircraft.com/cgi-bin/catalog.cgi?ident=1132157558-122-714&browse=electrical&product=mag-switch I was on your web site last night, what com antenna are you using? Is there separation criteria for the com and transponder antenna? Also, what the third party gizmo you mention with your Ipod hook up. Thanks, Best of luck. Jim Bowen RV-8 QB >From: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch> >Reply-To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com >To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: RV8-List: Baggage door questions >Date: Wed, 16 Nov 2005 11:45:12 +0100 > > >Hi, > >Looking at the baggage door again. I'm considering >the "hidden hinge" method I've seen a few builders use. > >Anyone have any hints or tips? My concern about the >normal piano hinge is that it looks like it will >leak. Also, how do you get the hinge pin in and >out of there? > >What kind of lock are people using on the baggage door? > >Thanks, >Mickey > >-- >Mickey Coggins >http://www.rv8.ch/ >#82007 finishing > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 16, 2005
From: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch>
Subject: Re: Baggage door questions
Hi Jim, Thanks for the hints on the baggage door. I'll check it out. > I just went through the firewall into the hinge with the pin. Works ok. The > lock I used comes in the mag switch / lock set that Van's sell's. see: I had seen that, but it's about 80 bucks, and I don't need a mag switch. Hopefully I can come up with something a bit cheaper! > I was on your web site last night, what com antenna are you using? Is there > separation criteria for the com and transponder antenna? Also, what the > third party gizmo you mention with your Ipod hook up. Thanks, Best of luck. I think the antenna is a COMANT CI-122 from Steinair or Van's, but I'll have to check. It's either that or a "clone". Bob Nuckolls says there's no problem having the comm antenna and the transponder antenna close together, so I have mine about 2 feet apart. About the ipod, I don't have it hooked up in the aircraft, just in the workshop. It's just a simple CompUSA/Fry's/Best Buy type ipod mini AC adapter. I think it was about 1/2 the price of the Apple one, and I've recently seen them even cheaper. There are only two wires going to the big ipod connector, and I'll bet if I cut them and apply 12v it will work. -- Mickey Coggins http://www.rv8.ch/ #82007 finishing ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "BRUCE GRAY" <brucerv84us(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Baggage door questions
Date: Nov 17, 2005
Hi Mickey, You might also check out John Huft's sight in Van's Web links. Some ideas for you there as well. Bruce Gray RV8 Fuse Gearboxes >From: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch> >Reply-To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com >To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: Re: RV8-List: Baggage door questions >Date: Wed, 16 Nov 2005 19:10:35 +0100 > > >Hi Jim, > >Thanks for the hints on the baggage door. I'll >check it out. > > > I just went through the firewall into the hinge with the pin. Works ok. >The > > lock I used comes in the mag switch / lock set that Van's sell's. see: > >I had seen that, but it's about 80 bucks, and I don't need >a mag switch. Hopefully I can come up with something a >bit cheaper! > > > I was on your web site last night, what com antenna are you using? Is >there > > separation criteria for the com and transponder antenna? Also, what the > > third party gizmo you mention with your Ipod hook up. Thanks, Best of >luck. > >I think the antenna is a COMANT CI-122 from Steinair or Van's, but I'll >have to check. It's either that or a "clone". Bob Nuckolls says >there's no problem having the comm antenna and the transponder >antenna close together, so I have mine about 2 feet apart. > >About the ipod, I don't have it hooked up in the aircraft, just in >the workshop. It's just a simple CompUSA/Fry's/Best Buy type ipod >mini AC adapter. I think it was about 1/2 the price of the Apple >one, and I've recently seen them even cheaper. There are only >two wires going to the big ipod connector, and I'll bet if I >cut them and apply 12v it will work. > >-- >Mickey Coggins >http://www.rv8.ch/ >#82007 finishing > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stan Bearup" <bearup(at)ida.net>
Subject: MT 3-blade constant-speed propeller for sale
Date: Nov 17, 2005
I have a new three blade electric constant-speed MT propeller for sale. Included are the kevlar spinner assy., electronic controller, circuit breaker, and assembly . The propeller model number is MTV-18-B/183-17. It was purchased new in 2002 and never used on our GlaStar project. We have decided to install an NSI Subaru package which includes a CAP 200 propeller, so we have decided to sell this very nice propeller. It is new and still in its original box. It fits on an SAE #2 flange with 1/2 bolts (Lyc O-360, some O-320, and most Subaru propeller reduction drive set-ups). $7,000. Stan Bearup bearup(at)ida.net (208) 220-0837 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Paul Rice" <rice737(at)msn.com>
Subject: F804NPP side covers
Date: Nov 18, 2005
Hello Listers, I'm fitting my left and right consoles and it says to put F804NPP in place to set the console in the right place. No problem. But, the flange on F804NPP is about a 1/4 inch wider than the distance between the F804C's. Is there anything you can do to change the width of 804NPP or do I need to make spacers to fill the gaps. Thanks, Paul RV8QB Fuselage ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Al Grajek" <algrajek(at)msn.com>
Subject: Parts for sale
Date: Nov 22, 2005
INNOCENT GLOBAL 0.0406 1.0000 -3.9094 In cleaning out the hangar for my new project, I have some parts for sale: Vans EGT guage, new in box, $30(new from Vans, $44) Electric Turn coordinator,lighted, like brand new, yellow tag $200 VAL Avionics INS422, Integrated Nav system- LOC/GS, LOC,VOR plus 3 light marker. see at valavionics.com. $1400 includes all antennas. Al Grajek algrajek(at)msn.com 859-361-9460 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Felipe Bo" <lipebo(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Landing Gear
Date: Nov 23, 2005
I have RV8QB kit. I m ready to start working on the landing gear, the plans call to level the fusulege using the foward part of it, but the kit comes with the skin fit in its place already. Am i missing something???? Thanks.... ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule(at)pfclaw.com>
Subject: RE: Landing Gear
Date: Nov 23, 2005
If I recall correctly, you have the fuselage upside down, then you crawl underneath and put your level on the floor between the gear towers. Stephen Soule Vermont -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Felipe Bo Subject: RV8-List: RE: Landing Gear I have RV8QB kit. I m ready to start working on the landing gear, the plans call to level the fusulege using the foward part of it, but the kit comes with the skin fit in its place already. Am i missing something???? Thanks.... ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Paul Rice" <rice737(at)msn.com>
Subject: Elevator up angle
Date: Nov 27, 2005
Hello Listers, I attached my elevators to the H/S today. When trying to set the maximum up angle I could only get it to about 25 degrees up before the elevator horns hit the rear most bulked. Is it possible that I have to trim the horns to achieve a 30 up angle? Paul RV8QB Fuselage ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Heated pitot recommendations
Date: Dec 04, 2005
From: "Jeff Preou" <jeff(at)preou.com>
Hi Guys, Anyone here have any recommendations on a heated pitot for an RV-8A? I'm expecting the wing kit to arrive maybe towards the end of January and I'm just thinking about 'other things' that I might want to organize while I'm building the wings. I already have an AoA Pro wing installation kit on the shelf and ready. If you have any other ideas or advice, I'm all ears! Cheers, -- Jeff Preou Hamilton, New Zealand ############################################################ This e-mail message has been scanned for Viruses and Content and cleared by NetIQ MailMarshal and Symantec Antivirus ############################################################ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jim Stone" <jrstone(at)insightbb.com>
Subject: Re: Heated pitot recommendations
Date: Dec 03, 2005
Consider Gretz Aero. His unit is a black molded material, has a circuit board that controls the temp of the unit so that it isn't always on, has 3 LEDs that tell temp status in the cockpit (if desired), and it fits his bracket. The unit is around $400 complete(hardware and wire to C/B). Mine is not yet up and running but I don't forsee any problems with it. Jim Stone HRII ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jeff Preou" <jeff(at)preou.com> Subject: RV8-List: Heated pitot recommendations > > Hi Guys, > > Anyone here have any recommendations on a heated pitot for an RV-8A? > > I'm expecting the wing kit to arrive maybe towards the end of January > and I'm just thinking about 'other things' that I might want to organize > while I'm building the wings. I already have an AoA Pro wing > installation kit on the shelf and ready. If you have any other ideas or > advice, I'm all ears! > > Cheers, > -- > Jeff Preou > Hamilton, New Zealand > > > ############################################################ > This e-mail message has been scanned for Viruses and Content > and cleared by NetIQ MailMarshal and Symantec Antivirus > ############################################################ > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: DONKEYVET(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 03, 2005
Subject: Re: Heated pitot recommendations
Jeff, There's a question you'll get equal opinions on either side. I've been round and round on it. Some say you have no business going into instrument conditions wothout one but then others say you have no business going in without de-ice boots and two engines. If you don't plan IFR and you have an AOA it seems like it may not be necessary being that they cost about a grand (why I don't know) new and not much less used. I'm putting an old 28 volt one on mine even though it has a 12 volt system. I tried it with 12 volts and it still gets pretty warm. They seem to go for cheaper prices on the used market. Like everything else I've got dogmatic answers on either side of that question so I guess you'll have to think about what you plan to do with your plane but it's never wrong to opt for less weight, money and complexity. Dennis Flosi, N963DF finishing ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Tony Johnson" <tonyjohnson(at)cfl.rr.com>
Subject: Heated pitot recommendations
Date: Dec 03, 2005
Jeff, You may want to consider the new heated pitot tube from Gretz. Aircraft spruces sells them. They are made from a none metallic material. They turn themselves on and heat up when the temp drops to the point where they are needed. They are the latest technology and cheaper than most of the others that you will see. I have ordered one for my 8A. Good luck with your project. Tony Johnson RV8A Orlando -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff Preou Subject: RV8-List: Heated pitot recommendations Hi Guys, Anyone here have any recommendations on a heated pitot for an RV-8A? I'm expecting the wing kit to arrive maybe towards the end of January and I'm just thinking about 'other things' that I might want to organize while I'm building the wings. I already have an AoA Pro wing installation kit on the shelf and ready. If you have any other ideas or advice, I'm all ears! Cheers, -- Jeff Preou Hamilton, New Zealand ############################################################ This e-mail message has been scanned for Viruses and Content and cleared by NetIQ MailMarshal and Symantec Antivirus ############################################################ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Joel Harding <cajole76(at)ispwest.com>
Subject: Re: Heated pitot recommendations
Date: Dec 03, 2005
Jeff, It depends mostly on your regional weather, and your intended use of the airplane. I assume you have a lot of exposure to the marine layer, and if you plan on doing some IFR flying I would highly recommend it. Joel Harding On Dec 3, 2005, at 10:44 AM, Jeff Preou wrote: > > Hi Guys, > > Anyone here have any recommendations on a heated pitot for an RV-8A? > > I'm expecting the wing kit to arrive maybe towards the end of January > and I'm just thinking about 'other things' that I might want to > organize > while I'm building the wings. I already have an AoA Pro wing > installation kit on the shelf and ready. If you have any other > ideas or > advice, I'm all ears! > > Cheers, > -- > Jeff Preou > Hamilton, New Zealand > > > ############################################################ > This e-mail message has been scanned for Viruses and Content > and cleared by NetIQ MailMarshal and Symantec Antivirus > ############################################################ > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "weride" <weride(at)surewest.net>
Subject: Re: RV Tool Kit
Date: Dec 03, 2005
Hi Connie; Sorry but I erased it . Try to click on the attachment under subject more than once. when it comes up in the separate window click on it again. When my cousin sends me things I have to open messages more than once to find the message sometimes. Not much new here. I am still working but I don't mind it all being I am building the airplane. Tell Dave I now have a new appreciation for metal work , now I know why I was an electrician rather than a tin knocker. What are you guys going to do for the Hollidays? Are you coming to this area? If so let us know so we can hook up. We don't have anything but camping with the group until March when we go to the race in Vegas and even then we will only go for a week. We had planned to go to New Orelens after the race but after the flood we decided to save vacation time and go on a long trip the next year. I really want to concentrate on building my airplane anyway so I don't mind. Besides if we get too bugged we both have jobs where we can take off in a hart beat if we want to. Well I had best get back to the "Domestic Hanger " (airplanes aren't built in garages.) Hope you are bout happy and well. We love Ya; Tom PS; I attached a picture of the plane One of what it looks like now and one of what it will look like completed (I hope) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Al Grajek" <algrajek(at)msn.com>
Subject: GPS 296/395
Date: Dec 05, 2005
INNOCENT GLOBAL 0.0063 1.0000 -4.3997 NO!NO!NO It is a big scam. Trust me. Look at the feedback. All from sellers, not buyers. These guys are in Romania. Even the guy they give for reference doesNOT work for Ebay. I checked it out. When I first looked there wer 8 or 10 of these. After Ebay investigated, there was one. Also notice, the email address chandes a lot. AND there is NO way to get the money back. Thats why they use Western Union. Like they say, "if its too good to be true......." Al Grajek ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 06, 2005
From: Dan <dan(at)rdan.com>
Subject: Fwd: Just orderd RV-8
I just ordered an RV-8 QB I'm SO EXCITED !!!/!/! Dan cleaning out the garage now .,.,.,.,.,., Date: Tue, 6 Dec 2005 20:25:06 -0800 (PST) From: Dan <dan(at)rdan.com> Subject: Just orderd RV-8 !!!!!I just ordered my RV-8 QB !!! My first kit I'm SO EXCITED Dan, Cleaning out the Garage !~ to make room !@@! ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Fwd: Just orderd RV-8
Date: Dec 07, 2005
From: "Jeff Preou" <jeff(at)preou.com>
Welcome Dan! Cool feeling huh? We got started on our RV-8A [slow build] empennage a couple of months ago and we've just recently ordered the wing kit. Get ready to learn a whole lot :-) -- Jeff Preou Hamilton, New Zealand -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dan Subject: RV8-List: Fwd: Just orderd RV-8 I just ordered an RV-8 QB I'm SO EXCITED !!!/!/! Dan cleaning out the garage now .,.,.,.,.,., Date: Tue, 6 Dec 2005 20:25:06 -0800 (PST) From: Dan <dan(at)rdan.com> Subject: Just orderd RV-8 !!!!!I just ordered my RV-8 QB !!! My first kit I'm SO EXCITED Dan, Cleaning out the Garage !~ to make room !@@! ############################################################ This e-mail message has been scanned for Viruses and Content and cleared by NetIQ MailMarshal and Symantec Antivirus ############################################################ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bruce Niles" <bniles(at)cfl.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Fwd: Just orderd RV-8
Date: Dec 07, 2005
I would suggest that you clean out under some second bedroom beds, behind couches, and the whole other bedroom, (for starters). GOOD LUCK!! ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dan" <dan(at)rdan.com> Subject: RV8-List: Fwd: Just orderd RV-8 > > > I just ordered an RV-8 QB > I'm SO EXCITED !!!/!/! > > Dan > > cleaning out the garage now .,.,.,.,.,., > > Date: Tue, 6 Dec 2005 20:25:06 -0800 (PST) > From: Dan <dan(at)rdan.com> > Subject: Just orderd RV-8 > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > > !!!!!I just ordered my RV-8 QB !!! > My first kit I'm SO EXCITED > > Dan, > Cleaning out the Garage !~ to make room !@@! > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: johnciolino(at)comcast.net
Subject: Canopy stop by Mike Zeller
Date: Dec 09, 2005
I have seen a canopy stop for the RV-8 manufactured by Mike Zeller, but I cannot find any information on how to contact him. Does anyone have an web site, e-mail address, phone number for Mike. Thanks John Ciolino RV-8 Mounting cowl I have seen a canopy stop for the RV-8 manufactured by Mike Zeller, but I cannot find any information on how to contact him. Does anyone have an web site, e-mail address, phone number for Mike. Thanks John Ciolino RV-8 Mounting cowl ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mauri Morin" <maurv8(at)bresnan.net>
Subject: Canopy stop by Mike Zeller
Date: Dec 09, 2005
John, Mike Zeller, RV8 Latch Man Phone (812) 305-2568. Mauri Morin RV- 8 Fuse P.S. I have one and it works great ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 09, 2005
From: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch>
Subject: Re: Canopy stop by Mike Zeller
For more details, check this article: http://www.rv8.ch/article.php?story=200508071814513 Click on the first image to see all his contact details. BTW, Mauri, did you have the same problem I had with the length of the cam? Best regards, Mickey Mauri Morin wrote: > > John, > > Mike Zeller, RV8 Latch Man > Phone (812) 305-2568. > > Mauri Morin > RV- 8 Fuse > > P.S. I have one and it works great > -- Mickey Coggins http://www.rv8.ch/ #82007 finishing ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 10, 2005
Subject: [ Scott Lewis ] : New Email List Photo Share Available!
From: Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com>
A new Email List Photo Share is available: Poster: Scott Lewis Lists: RV-List,RV3-List,RV4-List,RV6-List,RV7-List,RV8-List,RV9-List,RV10-List,Rocket-List Subject: PiRep - Deluxe Fuel Caps http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/rv10@tpg.com.au.12.10.2005/index.html o Main Photo Share Index http://www.matronics.com/photoshare o Submitting a Photo Share If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the following information along with your email message and files: 1) Email List or Lists that they are related to: 2) Your Full Name: 3) Your Email Address: 4) One line Subject description: 5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic: 6) One-line Description of each photo or file: Email the information above and your files and photos to: pictures(at)matronics.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mauri Morin" <maurv8(at)bresnan.net>
Subject: Re: Canopy stop by Mike Zeller
Date: Dec 14, 2005
Mickey, Sorry, I missed your question earlier Had no problem with the installation as received. Mauri ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mickey Coggins" <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch> Subject: Re: RV8-List: Canopy stop by Mike Zeller > > For more details, check this article: > > http://www.rv8.ch/article.php?story=200508071814513 > > Click on the first image to see all his contact details. > > BTW, Mauri, did you have the same problem I had with > the length of the cam? > > Best regards, > Mickey > > Mauri Morin wrote: >> >> John, >> >> Mike Zeller, RV8 Latch Man >> Phone (812) 305-2568. >> >> Mauri Morin >> RV- 8 Fuse >> >> P.S. I have one and it works great >> > > > -- > Mickey Coggins > http://www.rv8.ch/ > #82007 finishing > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ken Brooks" <kenbrooks(at)charter.net>
Subject: RV-8 RC Model
Date: Dec 19, 2005
A friend who does RC modeling asked if I knew of any commercially available RV-8 model kits. He'd like to build one, but has only found RV-4 kits available. Anyone know of any RV-8 kits out there? Thanks in advance. Ken Brooks RV-8QB N1903P in progress ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ken Brooks" <kenbrooks(at)charter.net>
Subject: RC RV-8 model
Date: Dec 20, 2005
Thanks to those who responded about the availability of an RV-8 RC model. Still haven't found one, but came across a survey on rchomebuilts.com that the company uses to develop and produce new models. Anyone interested in having them put out an RV-8 should fill out their survey and let them know that there is a market for it. http://www.rchomebuilts.com/feedback.htm Ken Brooks RV-8QB N1903P ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ken Brooks" <kenbrooks(at)charter.net>
Subject: RV-8 RC Model
Date: Dec 21, 2005
McCaffrey Aviation has a plans-built RV-8 RC model for those of you who might be interested. Photo and information can be found at: http://home.att.net/~mgmccaffrey/ma/vansrv8.htm It uses an 8-cell electric motor and is aerobatic. Plans are $20 and can be previewed on their website. Ken Brooks Roscoe, IL Full-scale RV-8 in Progress ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "david stroud" <dstroud(at)storm.ca>
Subject: IO520 300 hp for sale
Date: Dec 27, 2005
We have an IO 520 for available for sale.300 hp, zero time, new crank, new cyls. all factory done. Full logs and paper trail, accessories. If interested, pls email direct to : dstroud(at)storm.ca thanks.. David Stroud ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: IO-520 Continental? For a RV ?
Date: Dec 28, 2005
From: "Condon, Philip M." <pcondon(at)mitre.org>
Can a Continental be used in a RV?? 300HP is over Vans limit. I am guessing this add is not for a RV per say..... ....................................................................... ...... From: "david stroud" <dstroud(at)storm.ca> Subject: RV8-List: IO520 300 hp for sale We have an IO 520 for available for sale.300 hp, zero time, new crank, new cyls. all factory done. Full logs and paper trail, accessories. If interested, pls email direct to : dstroud(at)storm.ca thanks.. David Stroud ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "jolly dawson" <jollyd(at)ipns.com>
Subject: Re: IO-520 Continental? For a RV ?
Date: Dec 28, 2005
I'm using a cont. IO 360 in mine, and a friend is using a supergharged one..jolly in dallas, ore. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Condon, Philip M." <pcondon(at)mitre.org> Subject: RV8-List: IO-520 Continental? For a RV ? > > > Can a Continental be used in a RV?? 300HP is over Vans limit. I am > guessing this add is not for a RV per say..... > > > ....................................................................... > ...... > From: "david stroud" <dstroud(at)storm.ca> > Subject: RV8-List: IO520 300 hp for sale > > > We have an IO 520 for available for sale.300 hp, zero time, new crank, > new cyls. > all factory done. Full logs and paper trail, accessories. If > interested, pls email > direct to : > > dstroud(at)storm.ca thanks.. > > David Stroud > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "james winkler" <madman266(at)comcast.net>
Subject: intercom or audio panels
Date: Dec 29, 2005
in my rv 8 i want stereo music capability, which is available in both intercom and audio panel. the cost difference is about 1000 dollars. the intercom being the less expensive.the problem i am told from tech support at garmen and ps eng. is that tou cant ident vors and loc unless you get the audio panel.there must be a way. are there any avionics gurus out there who can enlighten me???james ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 29, 2005
From: David Thomas <vtol(at)shaw.ca>
Subject: intercom or audio panels
Hey James, Don't cheap out on audio, it will help you to enjoy your flying more than you would ever believe. Consider the AMS50 from NAT, they are the audio professionals. David Thomas -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of james winkler Subject: RV8-List: intercom or audio panels in my rv 8 i want stereo music capability, which is available in both intercom and audio panel. the cost difference is about 1000 dollars. the intercom being the less expensive.the problem i am told from tech support at garmen and ps eng. is that tou cant ident vors and loc unless you get the audio panel.there must be a way. are there any avionics gurus out there who can enlighten me???james ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Kermit Reedy" <KBRJOY(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: RE: RV8-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 12/31/05
Date: Jan 01, 2006
Anyone have a project for sale? Contact kbrjoy(at)worldnet.att.net kermit reedy -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV8-List Digest Server Subject: RV8-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 12/31/05 * ================================================== Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive ================================================== Today's complete RV8-List Digest can also be found in either of the two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest formatted in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked Indexes and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII version of the RV8-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic text editor such as Notepad or with a web browser. HTML Version: http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv8-list/Digest.RV8-List.2005-12-31.html Text Version: http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv8-list/Digest.RV8-List.2005-12-31.txt ================================================ EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive ================================================ RV8-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Sat 12/31/05: 0 Today's Message Index: ---------------------- ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 04, 2006
From: Jim Bean <jim-bean(at)att.net>
Subject: RV-8 wheel landings
Listers, A friend advised me not to full stall land an RV-8. He says that the elevator gets blanked when full flaps are used so he only wheel lands his plane. What say ye. Jim Bean First flight soon. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Tom Scherder" <tomscherder(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV-8 wheel landings
Date: Jan 05, 2006
Jim, A full stall landing in a RV 8 will work just fine if your not 3 feet over the runway. Don't get too concerned if you find that the rear wheel lands first and forces the mains on. Thats just what it does.The good news is that all the energy is gone and you will come to a stop pretty fast. Wheel landings on the other hand require you to stick the landing by using forward pressure just as your mains touch. Not easy since we've all been taught to never give up the nose. There is also a dead zone when the tail begins to settle and the plane tends to get a little squirrelly. remember you still have some energy so a ground loop is more of a possibility. Wheel landings, though a lot more smooth also tend to porpoise if you get out of sink with the sticking of the mains. After trying to make real soft 3 pointers we finnally gave up and just land the damn thing. I know one guy who just apologises for the landing when you get in. Tom Scherder RV 8 38NE 80 hrs ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jim Bean" <jim-bean(at)att.net> Subject: RV8-List: RV-8 wheel landings > > Listers, > A friend advised me not to full stall land an RV-8. He says that the > elevator gets blanked when full flaps are used so he only wheel lands > his plane. What say ye. > Jim Bean > First flight soon. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Steve Glasgow" <willfly(at)carolina.rr.com>
Subject: Re: RV-8 wheel landings
Date: Jan 05, 2006
Hog Wash! Steve Glasgow-Cappy N123SG RV-8 Cappy's Toy ________________________________________________________________________________
From: BERFlyer(at)AOL.COM
Date: Jan 05, 2006
Subject: Re: RV-8 wheel landings
If you are going with a constant speed prop like a Hartzel, then I recommend you put about 50lbs of weight in the rear baggage compartment until you get comfortable with the stick forces and flare etc. I would do both 3 point and wheel landings in this configuration (solo). Once I removed the 50lbs of weight from the back, I would only do wheel landings if solo. The stick forces increased quite a bit during landing flare once the weight was removed. I believe it would be difficult to do a 3 point landing with a heavy prop in solo mode. You may actually run out of up elevator. With a rear passenger, you could land either way, but I normally do wheel landings all of the time now. I also believe that wheel landings in the -8 are better for cross-wind situations. Danny King did an excellent audio discussion on a very tough cross-wind landing he did out west a while back. I believe you can access it on the VansAirForce web site. Hope this helps, Bruce Raymond N488RV 96 hours ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Crosley, Rich" <RCROSLEY(at)HRTEXTRON.TEXTRON.COM>
Subject: Re: RV-8 wheel landings
Date: Jan 05, 2006
I have 125 hours in my RV-8 and my experience is that it is somewhat difficult to make consistently good landings. Now, to avoid, all the name calling this is only my experience and I may not be the best pilot on the net and I'm an old guy (60). I have about 500 hours in Cessna 120,140 and 170's and 300 in a Christen Eagle and before that I was a Navy jet guy. I make full stall landings all the time because I want to be slower, rather than faster and avoid the transition to tail down. Again just my opinion. The RV-8 may have a little bit of blocking the tail at slow speeds and full flaps, don't know. Try, watching RV's land and it seems that the "8" doesn't make as smooth a landing as the other tail dragging RV's. Could be the gear design or CG or what ever, but if you watch a 100 RV landings that seems to be the case. They are not unsafe landing, just not as smooth. I have tried less flaps, more power, no power it is just a little harder to make grease them-on-landings all the time. I think that in the Christen Eagle it was easier to make consistent good landings and you couldn't see the runway in it. It frustrates the heck out of me not to be able to make good landings all the time. Maybe more time or someone else will have the magic cure. But, if I were you, I'd do what ever kind of landing you are the most comfortable with......they all work. Rich Crosley RV-8 N948RC ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "dick martin" <martin(at)gbonline.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-8 wheel landings
Date: Jan 05, 2006
Dear Jim I have over 1300 hours on my RV8 and usually wheel land on hard surface and stall land with FULL flaps on my grass airstrip. I have never noticed any unusual landing characteristic with either full or half flap landings. My RV8 is equipped with a Lycoming IO390 engine and an extended hub AeroComposites propeller. My CG is in a normal range. I hope this helps you. Dick Martin RV8 N233M the fast one ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jim Bean" <jim-bean(at)att.net> Subject: RV-List: RV-8 wheel landings > --> RV-List message posted by: Jim Bean > > Listers, > A friend advised me not to full stall land an RV-8. He says that the > elevator gets blanked when full flaps are used so he only wheel lands > his plane. What say ye. > Jim Bean > First flight soon. > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Nic" <Nic(at)skyhi.flyer.co.uk>
Subject: Landings
Date: Jan 06, 2006
Rich, I totally agree - I have recently started flying my RV8 and previously spent my time in an S1S in which although the vision is far less, holds and flares beautifully. I can only describe the RV8 landings as being without "feel", and basically disappointing so far. It is good to hear an honest opinion of your experiences, far too often the lists are not very forthcoming on the shortfalls of what is otherwise a great little aircraft. Rgds, Nic > > I have 125 hours in my RV-8 and my experience is that it is somewhat > difficult to make consistently good landings. Now, to avoid, all the name > calling this is only my experience and I may not be the best pilot on the > net and I'm an old guy (60). I have about 500 hours in Cessna 120,140 and > 170's and 300 in a Christen Eagle and before that I was a Navy jet guy. I > make full stall landings all the time because I want to be slower, rather > than faster and avoid the transition to tail down. Again just my opinion. > The RV-8 may have a little bit of blocking the tail at slow speeds and full > flaps, don't know. Try, watching RV's land and it seems that the "8" > doesn't make as smooth a landing as the other tail dragging RV's. Could be > the gear design or CG or what ever, but if you watch a 100 RV landings that > seems to be the case. They are not unsafe landing, just not as smooth. I > have tried less flaps, more power, no power it is just a little harder to > make grease them-on-landings all the time. I think that in the Christen > Eagle it was easier to make consistent good landings and you couldn't see > the runway in it. It frustrates the heck out of me not to be able to make > good landings all the time. Maybe more time or someone else will have the > magic cure. But, if I were you, I'd do what ever kind of landing you are > the most comfortable with......they all work. > > Rich Crosley > RV-8 N948RC ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Joel Harding <cajole76(at)ispwest.com>
Subject: Re: Landings
Date: Jan 06, 2006
Nic, Maybe the answer to getting that "feel" is vortex generators. There has been some discussion in the past about reduced stall speeds and improved stability, but it would be interesting to find out if they improve the feel in the flare. Anyone have first hand experience to share? Joel Harding On Jan 6, 2006, at 6:43 AM, Nic wrote: > > Rich, I totally agree - I have recently started flying my RV8 and > previously > spent my time in an S1S in which although the vision is far less, > holds and > flares beautifully. > > I can only describe the RV8 landings as being without "feel", and > basically > disappointing so far. > > It is good to hear an honest opinion of your experiences, far too > often the > lists are not very forthcoming on the shortfalls of what is > otherwise a > great little aircraft. > > Rgds, Nic > >> >> I have 125 hours in my RV-8 and my experience is that it is somewhat >> difficult to make consistently good landings. Now, to avoid, all >> the name >> calling this is only my experience and I may not be the best pilot >> on the >> net and I'm an old guy (60). I have about 500 hours in Cessna >> 120,140 and >> 170's and 300 in a Christen Eagle and before that I was a Navy jet >> guy. I >> make full stall landings all the time because I want to be slower, >> rather >> than faster and avoid the transition to tail down. Again just my >> opinion. >> The RV-8 may have a little bit of blocking the tail at slow speeds >> and > full >> flaps, don't know. Try, watching RV's land and it seems that the "8" >> doesn't make as smooth a landing as the other tail dragging RV's. >> Could > be >> the gear design or CG or what ever, but if you watch a 100 RV >> landings > that >> seems to be the case. They are not unsafe landing, just not as >> smooth. I >> have tried less flaps, more power, no power it is just a little >> harder to >> make grease them-on-landings all the time. I think that in the >> Christen >> Eagle it was easier to make consistent good landings and you >> couldn't see >> the runway in it. It frustrates the heck out of me not to be able >> to make >> good landings all the time. Maybe more time or someone else will >> have the >> magic cure. But, if I were you, I'd do what ever kind of landing >> you are >> the most comfortable with......they all work. >> >> Rich Crosley >> RV-8 N948RC > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Joel Harding <cajole76(at)ispwest.com>
Subject: Re: Landings
Date: Jan 09, 2006
Nic, Take a look at this web site. Go to the last item on the page. There is a picture of a strake, along with some test information. It sounds like it might improve the low speed feel. Joel Harding http://www.romeolima.com/RV8//MikeRobbins.htm On Jan 6, 2006, at 6:43 AM, Nic wrote: > > Rich, I totally agree - I have recently started flying my RV8 and > previously > spent my time in an S1S in which although the vision is far less, > holds and > flares beautifully. > > I can only describe the RV8 landings as being without "feel", and > basically > disappointing so far. > > It is good to hear an honest opinion of your experiences, far too > often the > lists are not very forthcoming on the shortfalls of what is > otherwise a > great little aircraft. > > Rgds, Nic > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 09, 2006
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: All New BBS Interface For Matronics List Forums!
Dear Listers, I'm very proud to announce a completely new BBS interface is now available for all of the Email Lists at Matronics! This is a full-featured system that allows for viewing, posting, attachments, polls - the works. But the best part is that it is *completely* integrated with all of the existing email tools currently available at Matronics! What this means at the most basic level is that, if you post a message to List from Email in the traditional way, it will show up on the BBS system *and* get distributed to everyone currently subscribed to the Email List. By the same token, if you are on the BBS and post a message to a given List-Forum, the message will not only show up on the BBS, but also be distributed to everyone on the Email List!! It is really a very nice implementation and I am very pleased with its operation. All of the tools you have come to know and love such as the List Search Engine and List Browse and Download will still be available and contain all of the latest posts. Think of the new BBS interface as just another method of accessing the all of the Lists. You can use the BBS to view all of the latest posts without having to do anything except use your browser to surf over to the site. You can view and look at all of the various List's posts. If you want to post a new message or reply to an existing message from the BBS, you will have to Register on the BBS. This is a *very* simple process and will only take a couple of minutes. There is a small icon in the upper righthand side of the main BBS page labeled "Register" to get you started. I strongly recommend that you use the exact *same* email address you are subscribed to the Email Lists with when registering on the BBS. Also, while not an absolute requirement, I would really appreciate it if people would use their full name when choosing their Username on the BBS (for example "Matt Dralle"). This just makes it easier for everyone to know who's posting. Also, I have enabled the ability to upload a small user picture with your profile called an "avatar". Please use a *real* picture of yourself *with* your cloths on! Thank you! Maximum size of the bitmap is 120x120. You can either be subscribed to the BBS, or any number of Email Lists, or both. Registering on the BBS will allow you to email directly to all of the various Lists. However, to receive direct List Email, you will need to be *subscribed* to the various Lists as you have in the past. No changes here in operation. I have added numerous links on the BBS pointing to the Email List subscription page. I've had the BBS connected to the Lists for about a week now, so its already loaded up with a fair number of messages. You can post photos and other documents directly to the BBS and links to them will appear in the List Email distributions. Also, when any messages posted to the BBS are viewed in the List Email distribution, there will be a URL link at the bottom of the message pointing back to the BBS. And here's what you've been waiting for -- the main URL for the new Matronics Email List BBS is: http://forums.matronics.com Please surf on over, Register, and have a great time! I think this will be the dawn of a whole new era for the Lists at Matronics! Best regards, Matt Dralle Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551 925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Samjjake(at)cs.com
Date: Jan 11, 2006
Subject: RV-8 Landings....
After all the theories about RV-8 landing manners recently, can't help but put in my two cents worth! My son and I have been flying our -8 for two and a half yrs. now and feel that we have learned a little about the characteristics with the CG towards either end of the envelope (ran out of elevator at fwd end, and sensitive pitch control aft). Solo, we ballast 45 # in the aft bag. cmpt., and put that ballast in the fwd cmpt. with two aboard (Van was a bit generous with the CG range, considering a Cessna Citation jet has just about the same, 8"). By the way, leave the T/W first landings to planes with a tailhooks! As for directional skittishness, we don't have much slack in the tail chains (also replaced Van's t/w springs with a pair just a little softer), and made a new steering yoke which is about 1/4" wider on each side to slow things down. We also had a tail spring that was badly drilled at the factory and would not keep the t/w steering axis vertical (had 6-7 degrees of rotational slop), installed an AN taper pin instead of the retainer bolt. If that axis is not vertical, the t/w will not track well on initial touchdown. RV-8 brake pedals also will apply some brake pressure with any significant foot pressure (yeah, heels on the floor), whether you want braking or not. We put a small extension on the bottom of the pedals, extending down and to the rear. We now consider the landings now to be on par with the Citabria we had for years. My background, Navy 6 yrs, big iron 34 yrs, 900 hrs t/w last 7 yrs, 200 RV-8 Sam Jacobsen, RV-8, N708J ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bryan Jones" <rv_8pilot(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Landings
Date: Jan 11, 2006
Regarding the RV-8 handling, I guess I have to chime in. Mine's coming up on 6 years old with almost 800 hours - all mine. This plane is a gift from Heaven as far as I'm concerned. Van is a saint for selling these things at half what he could get for them. Guess I might be jaded or biased, but this is one honest, responsive plane. By far the best I've flown of it's type (single recip engine sport-acro), and I've flown a few - maybe 35-40 models. Landing is very straight forward and honest. Yes, it runs out of elevator if too slow and fwd cg. Even on short strips, I keep the speed up and bleed energy only when near three-pt touchdown - gives no problems. Takes practice to do this with a steep decent over an obstacle. The first 4 years of my RV's life were spent at an 1800-2000' grass strip. Lately, 95% of my landings are on 3,500+ foot concrete and asphalt where I use a fairly high nose attitude wheel landing technique (same as used on the grass actually). I find the spring steel gear no problem. The other RV's are spongier with their tubular type gear (where I have 60-70 hrs). But the -8 is not a problem once you've become accustomed to the very minor difference. As for low speed handling, it's not a Cub, but darn close - and I used to own one of those. I can hang in the air with the nose at about 30-deg up, full flaps and fly all day with full confidence. Wouldn't do it below 800 ft or so, but still very predictable and controllable. The shudder that you get just before stall is a little bit unnerving or just annoying. But really, I see it as a last line of defense for someone so totally out of it they allow an unexpected stall. But uncoordinated, it will snap. Not violently or erratically (depending on how straight the plane is), just enough to give a good spin entry or low speed snap roll. I see someone below saying the -8 landing are without feel and disappointing. Well, just don't see that. Have no idea what this would be compared to, but just don't see this at all. The looks take a few minutes to grow on you compared to a -3 or -4 - the most attrative RV's IMO. But it's a close second, especially flying. The plane will sink fast when slow. That's just the price to pay for the low aspect wing. But it's still very managable. Just keep some energy when landing, and DO NOT "over-pull" the stick to flare. Might get an accelerated stall at 4-5' AGL. Not good. Did it once. Fortunately, nothing broke. Last, the rudder/brake pedals need modification. Some use the lower pedal extension. I came up with something much more simple and I believe more effective. I cut two sections of 1/4" steel rod, drilled the respective sides of the pedal and lower assy. Inserted the rod and secured with set screw locking collars and Loctite. Has worked great for the last 400-500 hrs. Be sure to tighten the gear attach bolts after the first 50-hrs or so. Feel free to write me directly if you have more questions. Bryan Jones, CFII, MEI, RV-8 transition training (retired!) www.LoneStarSquadron.com Houston, Texas >From: Joel Harding <cajole76(at)ispwest.com> >Reply-To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com >To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: Re: RV8-List: Landings Date: Mon, 9 Jan 2006 09:34:45 -0700 > > >Nic, >Take a look at this web site. Go to the last item on the page. >There is a picture of a strake, along with some test information. It >sounds like it might improve the low speed feel. > >Joel Harding > > >http://www.romeolima.com/RV8//MikeRobbins.htm > > >On Jan 6, 2006, at 6:43 AM, Nic wrote: > > > > > Rich, I totally agree - I have recently started flying my RV8 and > > previously > > spent my time in an S1S in which although the vision is far less, > > holds and > > flares beautifully. > > > > I can only describe the RV8 landings as being without "feel", and > > basically > > disappointing so far. > > > > It is good to hear an honest opinion of your experiences, far too > > often the > > lists are not very forthcoming on the shortfalls of what is > > otherwise a > > great little aircraft. > > > > Rgds, Nic > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Nic" <Nic(at)skyhi.flyer.co.uk>
Cc:
Subject: Landings
Date: Jan 12, 2006
Bryan, Thanks for your feedback on the RV8 handling. I have had several emails from RV8'ers that have had the same experience as myself, namely of disappointing handling in takeoff and particularly landing regimes. I think the issue is mainly one of "expectations" and I had assumed that the RV grin was one derived from excellent light handling, rather than just performance. Speaking to a number of pilots that have come to RV8's from Pitt's or other similar aircraft, they too have found that the 8 is heavy and not very responsive in certain regimes. Yes, it feels sporty at high speeds - but that is to be expected. Much of the discussion on the RV8 forums is naturally about building rather than flying and it has been good recently to hear some honest opinions on the RV8 handling, (even if they are often off-line). Yes, the aircraft is pretty benign and can be landed in a three hundred yards, and yes, it can be flown as a stable platform at low speeds with the flaps down ...... but in my honest opinion is that it lacks fine and detailed feedback that defines a truly great handling airplane. The ergonomics of the seating and stick position are not ideal either and I will be thinking of ways to enhance the current arrangements in my own RV8. (I have heard that Jon J's seats are an improvement in the RV4). As suggested I think that it really depends on your previous experience as to whether the handling has the "feel" or not. Overall I am still generally happy with my new 8, but will Now probably keep my Pitts S1 to keep in touch. Rgds, Nic > I see someone below saying the -8 landing are without feel and > disappointing. Well, just don't see that. Have no idea what this would be > compared to, but just don't see this at all. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Paul Schattauer" <chasm711(at)msn.com>
Subject: Landings
Date: Jan 12, 2006
Nic You seem to imply that the "RV grin" is only acquired from performance and not handling and that the RV 8 delivers "disappointing" take off and landing and landing characteristics. If that is your experience that is certainly valid for you but in no way mirrors the experience of all others. If you are comparing an RV to a Pitts its a bit of an apples and oranges thing. I challenge you to put spades on your ailerons, VGs on your stabilizer and bias your CG aft and then comment on the comparison. You have much more experience than many builders and are aware that a short coupled Pitts will be lighter and more responsive in pitch and roll than just about anything else. When my RV 8 is full of fuel with just me in it and that heavy angle valve engine up front it gets nose heavy when landing (slow) but at the end of a cross country leg with low fuel and my wife in the back seat its very light in pitch. The point is that your Pitts is optimized for a fairly narrow flight and loading regime and an RV is capable of a much broader envelope. My experience has been that the RV series is delightful and responsive to fly in all regimes. Now tell me again how that Pitts has better takeoff characteristics :) Paul Schattauer RV8 N808 PS I wheel land on pavement when the CG is forward and 3 point when aft I always 3 point on grass The tall pilot option (I am 5'11") and a slightly bent (cut and welded) stick solved the cockpit ergonomics for me >From: "Nic" <Nic(at)skyhi.flyer.co.uk> >Reply-To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com >To: >CC: >Subject: RV8-List: Landings >Date: Thu, 12 Jan 2006 12:13:27 -0000 > > >Bryan, Thanks for your feedback on the RV8 handling. I have had several >emails from RV8'ers that have had the same experience as myself, namely of >disappointing handling in takeoff and particularly landing regimes. > >I think the issue is mainly one of "expectations" and I had assumed that >the >RV grin was one derived from excellent light handling, rather than just >performance. Speaking to a number of pilots that have come to RV8's from >Pitt's or other similar aircraft, they too have found that the 8 is heavy >and not very responsive in certain regimes. Yes, it feels sporty at high >speeds - but that is to be expected. > >Much of the discussion on the RV8 forums is naturally about building rather >than flying and it has been good recently to hear some honest opinions on >the RV8 handling, (even if they are often off-line). > >Yes, the aircraft is pretty benign and can be landed in a three hundred >yards, and yes, it can be flown as a stable platform at low speeds with the >flaps down ...... but in my honest opinion is that it lacks fine and >detailed feedback that defines a truly great handling airplane. > >The ergonomics of the seating and stick position are not ideal either and I >will be thinking of ways to enhance the current arrangements in my own RV8. >(I have heard that Jon J's seats are an improvement in the RV4). > >As suggested I think that it really depends on your previous experience as >to whether the handling has the "feel" or not. Overall I am still generally >happy with my new 8, but will Now probably keep my Pitts S1 to keep in >touch. > >Rgds, Nic > > > I see someone below saying the -8 landing are without feel and > > disappointing. Well, just don't see that. Have no idea what this would >be > > compared to, but just don't see this at all. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Tall Pilot Option
Date: Jan 12, 2006
From: "Dan Beadle" <Dan.Beadle(at)hq.inclinesoftworks.com>
What does the Tall Pilot Option entail for an RV8. I see that Paul Schattauer used it at 5'11". Vans says something about 6'6" or something like that. At 6'1", is it recommended or not? And what does it do to the back seat room? Thanks ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Paul Schattauer" <chasm711(at)msn.com>
Subject: Tall Pilot Option
Date: Jan 12, 2006
The tall pilot option changes the geometry of the front seat back weldment and allows you to "tilt" back about another inch and a half. What it really does is move your head aft about 2 inches and reclines you a bit. It is more comfortable for me and gives me a little more distance from the panel. It does reduce the room in the back a little. It is a bolt on change. I have no clue why Van suggests it for 6"6' pilots only. Paul Schattauer RV 8 808PS >From: "Dan Beadle" <Dan.Beadle(at)hq.inclinesoftworks.com> >Reply-To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com >To: >Subject: RV8-List: Tall Pilot Option >Date: Thu, 12 Jan 2006 15:00:38 -0800 > > > >What does the Tall Pilot Option entail for an RV8. I see that Paul >Schattauer used it at 5'11". Vans says something about 6'6" or >something like that. At 6'1", is it recommended or not? And what does >it do to the back seat room? > > >Thanks > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 12, 2006
From: scott bilinski <rv8a2001(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Tall Pilot Option
It all depends on how you are proportioned. I am 6'3" and I fit ok. If I had to make a change It would be one that gives me more leg room. My knees are regularly hitting the bottom of the instrument panel. To do it over again. I would flip around the mid cabin brace and move the seat bottom back about 2~3 inches. Flipping the mid cabin brace moves the top of the seat back......I think this would not be a problem. If you do this the stick really needs to be moved back also. Also on the seat cushions, I ordered Oregon Aero and had them make the last 2 inches a seperat piece. Boy am I glad I did that other wise my head set would be hitting the canopy. Dan Beadle wrote: What does the Tall Pilot Option entail for an RV8. I see that Paul Schattauer used it at 5'11". Vans says something about 6'6" or something like that. At 6'1", is it recommended or not? And what does it do to the back seat room? Thanks Scott Bilinski RV-8a cell 858-395-5094 --------------------------------- Got holiday prints? See all the ways to get quality prints in your hands ASAP. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com>
Subject: Tall Pilot Option
Date: Jan 12, 2006
I'm 6'1" and have no problems or regrets with the stock configuration (no tall option). - Larry Bowen Larry(at)BowenAero.com http://BowenAero.com > -----Original Message----- > From: Dan Beadle [mailto:Dan.Beadle(at)hq.inclinesoftworks.com] > Sent: Thursday, January 12, 2006 6:01 PM > To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV8-List: Tall Pilot Option > > --> > > What does the Tall Pilot Option entail for an RV8. I see > that Paul Schattauer used it at 5'11". Vans says something > about 6'6" or something like that. At 6'1", is it > recommended or not? And what does it do to the back seat room? > > Thanks ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Nic" <Nic(at)skyhi.flyer.co.uk>
Subject: Landings & handling
Date: Jan 13, 2006
Paul, Yes, I am sure that you are right and that many pilots find the RV8 handling absolutely fantastic in all regimes. That is why I say it very much depends on your individual perspective and previous experience, and what you are looking for in an aircraft. My feedback is only relevant as one datapoint on the RV satisfaction graph, and after two years of build time, even I am biased towards skewing the satisfaction level favourably. Rgds, Nic ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 13, 2006
From: David Thomas <vtol(at)shaw.ca>
Subject: Re: Landings & handling
I hate to mention this for fear of multiple reprisals but what are the landing characteristics for the 8A? David Thomas ----- Original Message ----- From: Nic <Nic(at)skyhi.flyer.co.uk> Date: Friday, January 13, 2006 4:46 am Subject: RV8-List: Landings & handling > > Paul, Yes, I am sure that you are right and that many pilots find > the RV8 > handling absolutely fantastic in all regimes. > That is why I say it very much depends on your individual > perspective and > previous experience, and what you are looking for in an aircraft. > > My feedback is only relevant as one datapoint on the RV > satisfaction graph, > and after two years of build time, even I am biased towards > skewing the > satisfaction level favourably. > Rgds, Nic > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jimmy Hill" <jimmy(at)jhill.biz>
Subject: Re: Landings & handling
Date: Jan 13, 2006
Have flown a wide variety of conventional gear and tri-gear. My 8A is the easiest landing plane of all. Jimmy 8A 330 Hours ----- Original Message ----- From: "David Thomas" <vtol(at)shaw.ca> Sent: Friday, January 13, 2006 12:11 PM Subject: Re: RV8-List: Landings & handling > > I hate to mention this for fear of multiple reprisals but what are the landing characteristics for the 8A? > > David Thomas > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Nic <Nic(at)skyhi.flyer.co.uk> > Date: Friday, January 13, 2006 4:46 am > Subject: RV8-List: Landings & handling > > > > > Paul, Yes, I am sure that you are right and that many pilots find > > the RV8 > > handling absolutely fantastic in all regimes. > > That is why I say it very much depends on your individual > > perspective and > > previous experience, and what you are looking for in an aircraft. > > > > My feedback is only relevant as one datapoint on the RV > > satisfaction graph, > > and after two years of build time, even I am biased towards > > skewing the > > satisfaction level favourably. > > Rgds, Nic > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 14, 2006
From: Dan <dan(at)rdan.com>
Subject: Emp- Jig ??
Do I need to build a jig to build the empennage ??? I see some are and some not . I am QB so I think I don't need one for the wings Dan -8 tail N728RV reserved ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Emp- Jig ??
Date: Jan 14, 2006
From: "Dan Beadle" <Dan.Beadle(at)hq.inclinesoftworks.com>
No, the RV8 is pre-punched. The geometry of the skins forces everything into rig. Pretty nice. I just finished empennage. Waiting for QB kit myself. Dan -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dan Sent: Saturday, January 14, 2006 4:56 PM Subject: RV8-List: Emp- Jig ?? Do I need to build a jig to build the empennage ??? I see some are and some not . I am QB so I think I don't need one for the wings Dan -8 tail N728RV reserved ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "michael christmann" <michaelfly(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: poh
Date: Jan 17, 2006
I am looking for a current poh for the rv 8. The URL in the archives is not working for me. Michael Christmann ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 17, 2006
From: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch>
Subject: Re: poh
You'll find an excellent POH/AFM on Kevin Horton's site: http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8/ Mickey > I am looking for a current poh for the rv 8. The URL in the archives is not working for me. -- Mickey Coggins http://www.rv8.ch/ #82007 finishing ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mannan J. Thomason" <mannanj(at)alltel.net>
Subject: Re: poh
Date: Jan 17, 2006
Try Doug Reeves web site. He has links to several.different models. Look down the left side under POH's. www.vansairforce.net Mannan Thomason RV-8 Slo build. Rivets pounded, doing the other 90%. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mickey Coggins" <mick-matronics(at)rv8.ch> Sent: Tuesday, January 17, 2006 3:52 PM Subject: Re: RV8-List: poh > > You'll find an excellent POH/AFM on Kevin Horton's site: > > http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8/ > > Mickey > >> I am looking for a current poh for the rv 8. The URL in the archives is >> not working for me. > > > -- > Mickey Coggins > http://www.rv8.ch/ > #82007 finishing > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: DCS317(at)aol.com
Date: Jan 18, 2006
Subject: Plenum
I'd like to change to a plenum and make it myself rather than use the available "off the shelf" types. Aluminum vs. fiberglass? Anyone made one similar to Diamond Aircraft's two-part plenum? Reason for change--running ok except hot weather CHTs go to 425+ on a couple cylinders despite injector sizing changes on my IO-540 with Lasar and proper baffling. Please no comments on the IO-540--I just like excess power! Don Schmiesing Seattle 110 hours on 417DS ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Al Grajek" <algrajek(at)msn.com>
Subject: Electonic ignition options
Date: Jan 19, 2006
Listers: At the risk of starting a huge thread: What are the different types of ignition systems out there for the I/O 360? Mfg and comments good or bad for each? Thanks Al Grajek RV8 engine re-build ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bruce Niles" <bniles(at)cfl.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Electonic ignition options
Date: Jan 19, 2006
Yes, this could start a huge thread. I would suggest googling the various manufacturers you hear and read about. There is a TON of info out there. Also, I don't know what you are building, but on Van's website are websites of builders who have gone to great lengths to document their building process. You will find months of research there. Good luck. PS I went with the Aerosance FADEC. It is more money up front but it has fuel savings advantages, plus it runs each cylinder independently. It times ignitions, meters fuel based on sensor readings. One moving part in the whole system. Advantage: because fuel is constantly balanced to engine requirements and EGT and CHT parameters, you should never have to worry about fouling one plug while overleaning another cylinder and burning plugs or scorching a cylinder due to momentary inatention or other factors. FWIW.. Godd luck again in your reasearch, ----- Original Message ----- From: "Al Grajek" <algrajek(at)msn.com> ; Sent: Thursday, January 19, 2006 3:47 PM Subject: RV8-List: Electonic ignition options > > Listers: > At the risk of starting a huge thread: What are the different types of > ignition systems out there for the I/O 360? Mfg and comments good or bad > for > each? > Thanks > Al Grajek > RV8 > engine re-build > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Tom Scherder" <tomscherder(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Electonic ignition options
Date: Jan 19, 2006
Al, I really love our lightspeed. If the other mag goes I'm putting another one on. Quick starts, almost no RPM drop on mag check. Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: "Al Grajek" <algrajek(at)msn.com> ; Sent: Thursday, January 19, 2006 3:47 PM Subject: RV8-List: Electonic ignition options > > Listers: > At the risk of starting a huge thread: What are the different types of > ignition systems out there for the I/O 360? Mfg and comments good or bad for > each? > Thanks > Al Grajek > RV8 > engine re-build > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Al Grajek" <algrajek(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: Electonic ignition options
Date: Jan 20, 2006
Tom: How have you been? We need to get together. Where is the best place to get the lightspeed. and How much? Thanks Al >From: "Tom Scherder" <tomscherder(at)hotmail.com> >Reply-To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com >To: >Subject: Re: RV8-List: Electonic ignition options >Date: Thu, 19 Jan 2006 23:27:08 -0500 > > >Al, >I really love our lightspeed. If the other mag goes I'm putting another one >on. Quick starts, almost no RPM drop on mag check. >Tom >----- Original Message ----- >From: "Al Grajek" <algrajek(at)msn.com> >To: ; ; >; >Sent: Thursday, January 19, 2006 3:47 PM >Subject: RV8-List: Electonic ignition options > > > > > > Listers: > > At the risk of starting a huge thread: What are the different types of > > ignition systems out there for the I/O 360? Mfg and comments good or bad >for > > each? > > Thanks > > Al Grajek > > RV8 > > engine re-build > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com>
Subject: Plenum
Date: Jan 20, 2006
Don, I was hoping someone with more experience would have responded to your question by now, but since I haven't seen anything, let me mention my experiences to date: I bought an expensive carbon-fiber plenum for my 0-360 and have spent months trying to make it work. Most of the blame belongs with me; I seem to need to build something two or three times before it starts to be acceptable. Everything worked reasonably well until I got to the front inlets and connecting the plenum up to the cowl. I totally rebuilt the front of the carbon fiber plenum twice to get it to line up with the cowl inlets, then ordered a new baffle kit from Van's and set the plenum aside as a maybe winter project once I get this thing flying. I have seen three general approaches to plenums in RV's. The first is the Sam James composite plenum and cowl combination where the cowl inlets are round and connect up with a flexible sleeve to the round inlets on the plenum. The next approach is essentially to do the baffles but instead of doing the flexible rubber seal from the baffles to the top cowl, cut down the baffles and use either aluminum or composite to make a plenum out of the baffles. The third approach I have seen is best shown my Mark Philips on his RV-6 website, which I can't find at the moment. I have also seen similar plenums that come with a new Jaibaru engine from the factory. These are somewhat distorted composite or aluminum tubes that run from the cowl air inlet over the cylinders, one on each side. The bottom of the tube is open of course to force the air down through the cooling fins on the cylinders. If I do another plenum, I will probably do the baffles, cut them down, and then lay up a composite top that would fasten to the baffles on the sides and back with piano hinges. I still haven't figured out how I would connect it to the air inlets at the front. Terry RV-8A #80729, finishing (Whirl Wind 200RV prop came yesterday!) Seattle -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of DCS317(at)aol.com Sent: Wednesday, January 18, 2006 3:35 PM Subject: RV8-List: Plenum I'd like to change to a plenum and make it myself rather than use the available "off the shelf" types. Aluminum vs. fiberglass? Anyone made one similar to Diamond Aircraft's two-part plenum? Reason for change--running ok except hot weather CHTs go to 425+ on a couple cylinders despite injector sizing changes on my IO-540 with Lasar and proper baffling. Please no comments on the IO-540--I just like excess power! Don Schmiesing Seattle 110 hours on 417DS ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 20, 2006
From: Larry Miller <xsmiller(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: IO-390 questions
I am building an RV-8 and planning to use an IO-390. I know there are some out there and I would love to ask some questions if you would identify yourselves. Thanks, Larry Miller N184LM to be ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Tom Scherder" <tomscherder(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Electonic ignition options
Date: Jan 20, 2006
Al, I got our lightspeed on their website.I had a problem with a wire and they took care of it. I think I paid about $900.00 for it. A new mag is pretty close. They claim you can expect a 10 horsepower boost with 1 lightspeed and even more if you use 2. I can't tell any difference since we put it on in the beginning. I will say that this little plane can sure scoot. We cruise at over 190 and I had another pilot tell me that we could get over 200 if we keep everything against the wall. I had 2500 with full power at 5500ft and got consistently 194+mph. Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: "Al Grajek" <algrajek(at)msn.com> Sent: Friday, January 20, 2006 12:44 PM Subject: Re: RV8-List: Electonic ignition options > > Tom: > How have you been? We need to get together. Where is the best place to get > the lightspeed. and How much? > Thanks > Al > > > >From: "Tom Scherder" <tomscherder(at)hotmail.com> > >Reply-To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com > >To: > >Subject: Re: RV8-List: Electonic ignition options > >Date: Thu, 19 Jan 2006 23:27:08 -0500 > > > > > >Al, > >I really love our lightspeed. If the other mag goes I'm putting another one > >on. Quick starts, almost no RPM drop on mag check. > >Tom > >----- Original Message ----- > >From: "Al Grajek" <algrajek(at)msn.com> > >To: ; ; > >; > >Sent: Thursday, January 19, 2006 3:47 PM > >Subject: RV8-List: Electonic ignition options > > > > > > > > > > Listers: > > > At the risk of starting a huge thread: What are the different types of > > > ignition systems out there for the I/O 360? Mfg and comments good or bad > >for > > > each? > > > Thanks > > > Al Grajek > > > RV8 > > > engine re-build > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: DCS317(at)aol.com
Date: Jan 22, 2006
Subject: Oil Leak
CC: DCS317(at)aol.com I've got an small oil leak on the back side of my Lycoming. I thought it was leaking around the lower stud of the left magneto (a drip forms on that stud). Two removals and reinsertion of the stud (each with thread cleaning and thread sealer coating) and then a third removal (with an oversized stud inserted) did not cure the small leak. I think the leak is probably above the magneto perhaps at the connection of one of those expensive oil hoses at the back of the case. Just running the engine for a few minutes will not cause the leak--I have to cowl it up and fly the bird to see any oil leak, i.e., high power settings for at least 20 minutes--which messes up my belly and diffusely the left back of the engine. I've tightened all connections to the oil cooler (located on the right side of the engine) and cannot pinpoint any area of leakage. This is small enough to not notice any significant reduction in crankcase oil level even after a few flights. Anyone got any ideas how to pinpoint this frustrating leak? Don Schmiesing Seattle 110 hours on RV-8 417DS ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "jolly dawson" <jollyd(at)ipns.com>
Subject: Re: Oil Leak
Date: Jan 22, 2006
here is a tip that works for me on a LOT of stubborn leaks on ALL sorts of engines..clean the engine, and dry it off..put a coating of talk powder over the suspected aerea of the engine..if no joy after you run the engine, try putting talk ALL OVER the engine..sometimes the air stream carries the oil to the back of the engine, when the leak is really in the front...good luck, and blue skys to you...jolly in dallas, ore. ----- Original Message ----- From: <DCS317(at)aol.com> Cc: Sent: Sunday, January 22, 2006 4:13 PM Subject: RV8-List: Oil Leak > > > I've got an small oil leak on the back side of my Lycoming. I thought it > was leaking around the lower stud of the left magneto (a drip forms on that > stud). Two removals and reinsertion of the stud (each with thread cleaning and > thread sealer coating) and then a third removal (with an oversized stud > inserted) did not cure the small leak. I think the leak is probably above the > magneto perhaps at the connection of one of those expensive oil hoses at the back > of the case. Just running the engine for a few minutes will not cause the > leak--I have to cowl it up and fly the bird to see any oil leak, i.e., high > power settings for at least 20 minutes--which messes up my belly and diffusely > the left back of the engine. I've tightened all connections to the oil > cooler (located on the right side of the engine) and cannot pinpoint any area of > leakage. This is small enough to not notice any significant reduction in > crankcase oil level even after a few flights. Anyone got any ideas how to > pinpoint this frustrating leak? > > Don Schmiesing > Seattle > 110 hours on RV-8 417DS > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 24, 2006
From: lenleg(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: Oil Leak
Don't know if you have a CS prop but if you do ... check the governor ... that is where I had a leak. Len Leggette, RV-8A Greensboro, NC N910LL 429 hrs -----Original Message----- From: DCS317(at)aol.com Cc: DCS317(at)aol.com Subject: RV8-List: Oil Leak I've got an small oil leak on the back side of my Lycoming. I thought it was leaking around the lower stud of the left magneto (a drip forms on that stud). Two removals and reinsertion of the stud (each with thread cleaning and thread sealer coating) and then a third removal (with an oversized stud inserted) did not cure the small leak. I think the leak is probably above the magneto perhaps at the connection of one of those expensive oil hoses at the back of the case. Just running the engine for a few minutes will not cause the leak--I have to cowl it up and fly the bird to see any oil leak, i.e., high power settings for at least 20 minutes--which messes up my belly and diffusely the left back of the engine. I've tightened all connections to the oil cooler (located on the right side of the engine) and cannot pinpoint any area of leakage. This is small enough to not notice any significant reduction in crankcase oil level even after a few flights. Anyone got any ideas how to pinpoint this frustrating leak? Don Schmiesing Seattle 110 hours on RV-8 417DS ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mannan J. Thomason" <mannanj(at)alltel.net>
Subject: Re: Oil Leak
Date: Jan 24, 2006
If your engine happens to have a single drive dual mag setup ("Siamese mags"), there's a Service Instruction, Lycoming SI # 1438A that addresses oil leaks between the prop govenor and the accessory case. Seems some prop gov. shafts are a bit too long and bottom out in the internal gear, not allowing the gov. to be tightened down enough to compress the gasket. Mannan Thomason RV-8 Light at the end of the tunnel! ----- Original Message ----- From: <lenleg(at)aol.com> Sent: Tuesday, January 24, 2006 4:24 PM Subject: Re: RV8-List: Oil Leak > > Don't know if you have a CS prop but if you do ... check the governor ... > that is where I had a leak. > > Len Leggette, RV-8A > Greensboro, NC N910LL > 429 hrs > > > -----Original Message----- > From: DCS317(at)aol.com > To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com > Cc: DCS317(at)aol.com > Subject: RV8-List: Oil Leak > > > I've got an small oil leak on the back side of my Lycoming. I thought it > was leaking around the lower stud of the left magneto (a drip forms on > that > stud). Two removals and reinsertion of the stud (each with thread > cleaning and > thread sealer coating) and then a third removal (with an oversized stud > inserted) did not cure the small leak. I think the leak is probably above > the > magneto perhaps at the connection of one of those expensive oil hoses at > the > back > of the case. Just running the engine for a few minutes will not cause > the > leak--I have to cowl it up and fly the bird to see any oil leak, i.e., > high > power settings for at least 20 minutes--which messes up my belly and > diffusely > the left back of the engine. I've tightened all connections to the oil > cooler (located on the right side of the engine) and cannot pinpoint any > area > of > leakage. This is small enough to not notice any significant reduction in > crankcase oil level even after a few flights. Anyone got any ideas how > to > pinpoint this frustrating leak? > > Don Schmiesing > Seattle > 110 hours on RV-8 417DS > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Plenum
From: "aflyer" <aflyer(at)lazy8.net>
Date: Jan 26, 2006
Don, the easiest way for you to solve your CHT problems is to dump that LASAR system (excessive timing advance) and get Lightspeed or just plain magnetos. You can test this by removing power from the LASAR system when the engine is running too hot...you will reduce CHTs by 30 degrees as the timing reverts to baseline. A plenum will help reduce cooling drag, but probably not make the engine run cooler unless you didn't fit your baffles well. fun fun, John -------- Life is too short to run lean of peak. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=7000#7000 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 26, 2006
From: Walter Tondu <walter(at)tondu.com>
Subject: Re: Plenum
On 01/26 8:55, aflyer wrote: > > Don, the easiest way for you to solve your CHT problems is to dump that LASAR system (excessive timing advance) and get Lightspeed or just plain magnetos. You can test this by removing power from the LASAR system when the engine is running too hot...you will reduce CHTs by 30 degrees as the timing reverts to baseline. The LASAR system will generally only increase CHT's by 15-20 degrees. http://www.unisonindustries.com/products/lasar_installation/lasar_inst_seven.html -- Walter Tondu http://www.rv7-a.com Flying! ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Plenum
From: "aflyer" <aflyer(at)lazy8.net>
Date: Jan 27, 2006
Walter, you can believe my testing, or their marketing fluff. I would often switch the LASAR off in a climb on a warm day, and even in cruise if it was warm at altitude, and if anything, 30 degrees is conservative. I am speaking from 150 hours experience with that system. During the second summer, I replaced it with dual Lightspeeds...problem solved. I have not seen 400 degrees since. John -------- Life is too short to run lean of peak. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=7277#7277 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 27, 2006
From: Walter Tondu <walter(at)tondu.com>
Subject: Re: Plenum
On 01/27 6:54, aflyer wrote: > > Walter, you can believe my testing, or their marketing fluff. > > I would often switch the LASAR off in a climb on a warm day, and even in cruise if it was warm at altitude, and if anything, 30 degrees is conservative. I am speaking from 150 hours experience with that system. During the second summer, I replaced it with dual Lightspeeds...problem solved. I have not seen 400 degrees since. Precisely why my P-Mags should be arriving in a few weeks! I have examined everything I could related to the high CHT issue and replaceing the LASAR system is next on the agenda. I certainly hope I see the same numbers you have seen. Thanks for the info. -- Walter Tondu http://www.rv7-a.com Flying! ________________________________________________________________________________
From: PeterHunt1(at)aol.com
Date: Jan 28, 2006
Subject: Fwd: plenum
Return-path: From: PeterHunt1(at)aol.com Full-name: PeterHunt1 Date: Sat, 28 Jan 2006 13:20:33 EST Subject: plenum -------------------------------1138472433 John, I too have built a nice aluminum plenum for my RV-6 (O-360-A1A). Just got it in the air, but immediately found hot CHT's on climb out. I too suspect my LASAR and am running tests to determine how much CHT drop there is when I switch it off. You said your Lightspeed system solved the problem, but was there also any change in fuel burn? Pete -------------------------------1138472433 John, I too have built a nice aluminum plenum for my RV-6 (O-360-A1A).=20Just got it in the air, but immediately found hot CHT's on climb out. I too suspect my LASAR and am running tests to determine how much CHT drop there is when I switch it off. You said your Lightspeed system solved the problem, but was there also any change in fuel burn? Pete -------------------------------1138472433-- ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 28, 2006
Subject: [ Michael Kosta ] : New Email List Photo Share Available!
From: Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com>
A new Email List Photo Share is available: Poster: Michael Kosta Lists: RV-List,RV4-List,RV8-List Subject: RV-4 panel and radio console http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/mikel@dimensional.com.01.28.2006/index.html o Main Photo Share Index http://www.matronics.com/photoshare o Submitting a Photo Share If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the following information along with your email message and files: 1) Email List or Lists that they are related to: 2) Your Full Name: 3) Your Email Address: 4) One line Subject description: 5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic: 6) One-line Description of each photo or file: Email the information above and your files and photos to: pictures(at)matronics.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Fwd: plenum
From: "Nuisance" <aflyer(at)lazy8.net>
Date: Jan 28, 2006
Pete I did not see a change in fuel burn, or in true airspeed when I switched. I only saw the reduction in CHT, and the increase in EGT, both about the same as when I turned my LASAR off. I have the optional timing display with the Lightspeed...at 8500 ft, wide open throttle (23" map), and 2500 rpm, it only shows about 4 degrees advance from baseline. I don't know what the LASAR system was doing, they consider that information to be proprietary. John -------- Life is too short to run lean of peak. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=7677#7677 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 28, 2006
From: Walter Tondu <walter(at)tondu.com>
Subject: Re: Fwd: plenum
On 01/28 2:34, Nuisance wrote: > I don't know what the LASAR system was doing, they consider that > information to be proprietary. They must have told avweb, and I've also gotten this information directly from them over the phone. Here's a quote from avweb. "With settings available from zero to 42 degrees before Top Dead Center, however, the LASAR matches the spark advance to make possible the most "fire in the hole" from the smallest possible amount of fuel." And the whole article... http://www.avweb.com/news/reviews/182489-1.html -- Walter Tondu http://www.rv7-a.com Flying! ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Fwd: plenum
From: "Nuisance" <aflyer(at)lazy8.net>
Date: Jan 29, 2006
[quote="walter(at)tondu.com"]On 01/28 2:34, Nuisance wrote: > I don't know what the LASAR system was doing, they consider that > information to be proprietary. They must have told avweb, and I've also gotten this information directly from them over the phone. Here's a quote from avweb. "With settings available from zero to 42 degrees before Top Dead Center, however, the LASAR matches the spark advance to make possible the most "fire in the hole" from the smallest possible amount of fuel." Hi Walter I did read that article back in '01, and that, together with a strong recommendation from Ken Tunnel at Lycon, is why I ordered my engine with the LASAR system. The information I tried to get from Harry Fenton when he was still working for Unison was basically a timing map. That is, at what MAP and RPM does the advance start, and what is it at a normal cruise setting, and what is it at a high altitude cruise, etc. This information has always been withheld. We are given the range 0-42 degrees...I think Lightspeed says 0-40. But, it is the essence of this dicussion to consider when, and how much, advance is provided at various settings. This is what I am referring to when I say that the LASAR advance curve is too aggressive...too much advance comes in too early as MAP is reduced, and that is what causes the CHTs to run higher than they should. I firmly believe that with LASAR, by the time you provide enough extra cooling air to keep your engine at normal, sub 400 degree CHTs, you have caused enough extra drag to negate the benefit of any extra power you may be getting from the timing advance. You are also putting more strain on the rod and main bearings (see the discussion of thetaPP on the GAMI website, and John Deacon's articles on AVWEB). I have read (somewhere, maybe on one of these email lists) that the E-mag people are using a more conservative timing advance curve, and I would leap to the conclusion that they are aware of these problems. LASAR, as a certified system, is stuck with what they have. The company won't put more R&D into the system due to the poor market acceptance on the existing system...they won't even develop a system for Continentals. They did their testing on C-172s and various Pipers that provide huge masses of air for cooling (and go slow). They pushed the timing curve in the attempt to provide more attractive performance results, and didn't realize what would happen to the tighter cowled engines in the experimental world. Best of luck to ya! John disclaimer...these are all just my stupid opinions. -------- Life is too short to run lean of peak. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=7788#7788 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Speedy11(at)aol.com
Date: Jan 29, 2006
Subject: SL-30 Intercom
Listers, Is anyone with the Garmin SL-30 nav-comm using the built-in intercom? If so, is it acceptable? Or do you recommend buying a separate intercom? Is squelch a problem? Do you have control over squelch? Is there a means to input music? Is there a muting function? All advice appreciated. Stan Sutterfield www.rv-8a.net ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 29, 2006
From: scott bilinski <rv8a2001(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: SL-30 Intercom
If I remember correctly if you use the built in intercom then the freq monitor function wont work. Listers, Is anyone with the Garmin SL-30 nav-comm using the built-in intercom? If so, is it acceptable? Or do you recommend buying a separate intercom? Is squelch a problem? Do you have control over squelch? Is there a means to input music? Is there a muting function? All advice appreciated. Stan Sutterfield www.rv-8a.net Scott Bilinski RV-8a cell 858-395-5094 --------------------------------- ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 29, 2006
From: Tim Coldenhoff <rvlist(at)rv9a.deru.com>
Subject: Re: SL-30 Intercom
> If I remember correctly if you use the built in intercom then the > freq monitor function wont work. > > Speedy11(at)aol.com wrote: > Listers, Is anyone with the Garmin SL-30 nav-comm using the built-in > intercom? If so, is it acceptable? Or do you recommend buying a > separate intercom? Is squelch a problem? Do you have control over > squelch? Is there a means to input music? Is there a muting function? I have the SL-30 as my only Nav/Comm and I use the built in intercom. For me, it is perfectly acceptable. The ability to monitor two frequencies at once is not affected by use of the internal intercom - I use this feature quite a lot. Squelch is controllable by going through the system menus. Cumbersome to do in flight, however I have never had to go back and change it after finding a good setting. There is no means for Aux inputs, and therefore no muting function. The radio and intercom volume are the same control, so the pax will be just as loud as the radio. No big deal unless you need to talk while there is a lot of radio traffic, in which case you can just flip-flop to a clear freq momentarily. I had built an RST-565 audio panel to allow me to have a handheld as a backup COMM, as well as have an input for music. Unfortunately, I found the panel to have unacceptable performance and removed it. I have since purchased a handheld with a headset adaptor, and my Lightspeed headset has an aux input for music/cellphone, so I don't miss the audio panel. -- Tim Coldenhoff N194TC - 2.5L Egg Subaru powered RV9a http://rv9a.deru.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 29, 2006
From: Walter Tondu <walter(at)tondu.com>
Subject: Re: Fwd: plenum
On 01/29 6:32, Nuisance wrote: > I did read that article back in '01, and that, together with a strong recommendation from Ken Tunnel at Lycon, is why I ordered my engine with the LASAR system. > > The information I tried to get from Harry Fenton when he was still working for Unison was basically a timing map. That is, at what MAP and RPM does the advance start, and what is it at a normal cruise setting, and what is it at a high altitude cruise, etc. This information has always been withheld. We are given the range 0-42 degrees...I think Lightspeed says 0-40. But, it is the essence of this dicussion to consider when, and how much, advance is provided at various settings. This is what I am referring to when I say that the LASAR advance curve is too aggressive...too much advance comes in too early as MAP is reduced, and that is what causes the CHTs to run higher than they should. > > I firmly believe that with LASAR, by the time you provide enough extra cooling air to keep your engine at normal, sub 400 degree CHTs, you have caused enough extra drag to negate the benefit of any extra power you may be getting from the timing advance. You are also putting more strain on the rod and main bearings (see the discussion of thetaPP on the GAMI website, and John Deacon's articles on AVWEB). > > I have read (somewhere, maybe on one of these email lists) that the E-mag people are using a more conservative timing advance curve, and I would leap to the conclusion that they are aware of these problems. > > LASAR, as a certified system, is stuck with what they have. The company won't put more R&D into the system due to the poor market acceptance on the existing system...they won't even develop a system for Continentals. They did their testing on C-172s and various Pipers that provide huge masses of air for cooling (and go slow). They pushed the timing curve in the attempt to provide more attractive performance results, and didn't realize what would happen to the tighter cowled engines in the experimental world. I agree on every point. Well said. -- Walter Tondu http://www.rv7-a.com Flying! ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 29, 2006
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Six New Email Lists / Forums At Matronics!
Dear Listers, Its my pleasure to announce the addition of six new Email List / Forums to the aviation line up at Matronics! These new lists support all the usual features you've come to know and love from the Matronics Email List including full integration with the All New Web BBS Forums Site!! The new Lists include: LycomingEngines-List Textron/Lycoming Engines RotaxEngines-List Rotax Engine for Aircraft M14PEngines-List Vendenyev M14P Radial Engine MurphyMoose-List Murphy Moose Aircraft Allegro-List Allegro 2000, a Czech-built, Rotax-powered Aircraft Falco-List Sequoia Aircraft's Falco Experimental To sign up for any or all of the new Lists, surf over to the Matronics Email List Subscription Form and follow the instructions: http://www.matronics.com/subscribe Don't forget to check out the All New Web BBS Forum now available along with all of the usual message and archive viewing tools at the Matronics Email Lists site. Surf over to the following URL for information on the BBS Forum: http://forums.matronics.com Enjoy the new Lists! Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Administrator ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jim & Terri Truitt" <jimteri1(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: 8A handling and landing
Date: Feb 04, 2006
I have 240+ hours on my 8A and it is the only RV I have landed (transition trained in a 6, but no landings). I have landed my 8A in an eighteen knot direct crosswind (90 degrees) and in 23 knot wind 50 degrees off nose. Not to say they were the BEST landings, but doable without breaking anything. I got my pilot's license in a Cherokee 140. I think the 140 is pretty easy and straightforeward to land. The 8A lands extremely easy, more so than the 140 because it is more responsive and weighs less than the 140. I have considerable time in other "lighter" experimentals and in ultralights. I can't imagine it being any easier to land a plane of the same size and weight as an 8A. I get a little nose wheel shimmy on landing rollout but it doesn't affect lateral control or steering. Once planted on the runway, it's easy to keep it there under control. As far as taxing - forgetaboutit - it's the best. And I can swing my tail into just about any spot a tail dragger can. The only downfalls of the nose dragger are two things. First, it IS possible to drag your rudder if you are not careful under some circumstamces - like a heavy passenger on a washboard grass strip. With enough weight in the back seat, a little bump that nudges the nose gear up when at speed can put the nose high enough to drag the rudder if you are not careful. I learned this from another 8A pilot and friends before I first flew my 8A and I have never dragged mine. Being cognizant that it can happen and quick reactions on the stick make it a non-event. Second, since the nose gear is less robust than the main gear and does take a lot of pounding on bumps and under braking, it could break. It should be protected through good technique. You simply learn to use back stick when taking off and landing to ease the load on the nose gear. Not unlike some other nose gear aircraft. I land on the mains and hold the nose gear off as long as I can. I use back stick when braking. Simple enough. One other thing that may or may not be an indicator of ease of handling in the 8A. I have read numerous posts of guys getting only 100 to 150 hours on their tires before replacement (usually tail draggers). I land and take off 99% of the time on concrete and I still have my original factory tires. I'll probably get another 40-50 hours out of them. I think a lot has to do with the ease in landing. Just my 2 cents, YMMV. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Edwardoconnor <Edwardoconnor(at)mac.com>
Subject: Test message
Date: Feb 24, 2006
Just wondered why no messages to this board in over a week. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Test message
Date: Feb 25, 2006
From: "Jeff Preou" <jeff(at)preou.com>
My guess is that everyone is over at the forums! :-) -- Jeff Preou Hamilton, New Zealand ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ashby Family Law" <sashby(at)ashbyfamilylaw.com>
Subject: Avery Tools
Date: Mar 22, 2006
This is my first post, so please excuse me if I err. Last June, I purchased a pneumatic rivet squeezer from Avery tools. It worked great until lately, when it petulantly refused to squeeze 1/8 inch rivets. I called Avery Tools in Fort Worth and Bob Avery called me back. He told me to send him the squeezer and he would check it out. I sent it to Avery with a letter. In the last line of the letter, I joked that Bob should lecture the squeezer and tell him to straighten up and fly right. On Monday, I received the following e-mail: Dear Stephen: I disassembled your squeezer and left him locked up overnight with all the loose parts in my squeezer parts bin. I threatened him with life without parole in the parts bin should he not straighten up & fly right. (It's quite easy to get that here in Texas -- it's called "cowboy justice" and all you need to get a conviction is to wear cowboy boots & a cowboy hat to court and present as exhibit "A" a 6 pack of longnecks !!). The next day I cleaned up all the parts, polished a few key internal parts, re-greased all the bearings, and reassembled. Gave him a serious talking to and reminded him what fate awaits him should he return to Texas. I've had him squeeze a couple dozen 1/8" rivets and he seems to be doing just fine now. I've included a book for the purpose of reading him his rights, should he stray and start acting up again. He is on the way back to you today. Regards; Bob Avery P.S. No charge -- all the other parts in the bin took up a collection to pay his fine -- seems they don't want him around since he is such a bad boy!! Besides being a great humorist, Bob Avery is a stand up guy. I must have been out of warranty on the squeezer, but Bob came to the rescue at no charge. For all of you out there building (or contemplating building) a RV you really should get a pneumatic squeezer. It is indispensable. And if you are wondering where to purchase such an implement, Avery tools would be the obvious answer. A guy with this much devotion (and humor) just has to be rewarded. Steve Ashby Stone Mountain, Georgia ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "jolly dawson" <jollyd(at)ipns.com>
Subject: Re: Avery Tools
Date: Mar 22, 2006
what a SUPER LETTER!..avery tools ARE the best...jolly in dallas....OREGON! ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ashby Family Law" <sashby(at)ashbyfamilylaw.com> Sent: Wednesday, March 22, 2006 6:36 AM Subject: RV8-List: Avery Tools > > This is my first post, so please excuse me if I err. Last June, I purchased > a pneumatic rivet squeezer from Avery tools. It worked great until lately, > when it petulantly refused to squeeze 1/8 inch rivets. I called Avery Tools > in Fort Worth and Bob Avery called me back. He told me to send him the > squeezer and he would check it out. I sent it to Avery with a letter. In > the last line of the letter, I joked that Bob should lecture the squeezer > and tell him to straighten up and fly right. On Monday, I received the > following e-mail: > > Dear Stephen: > > I disassembled your squeezer and left him locked up overnight with all the > loose parts in my squeezer parts bin. I threatened him with life without > parole in the parts bin should he not straighten up & fly right. (It's quite > easy to get that here in Texas -- it's called "cowboy justice" and all you > need to get a conviction is to wear cowboy boots & a cowboy hat to court and > present as exhibit "A" a 6 pack of longnecks !!). > > The next day I cleaned up all the parts, polished a few key internal parts, > re-greased all the bearings, and reassembled. Gave him a serious talking > to and reminded him what fate awaits him should he return to Texas. I've > had him squeeze a couple dozen 1/8" rivets and he seems to be doing just > fine now. I've included a book for the purpose of reading him his rights, > should he stray and start acting up again. He is on the way back to you > today. > > Regards; > > Bob Avery > > P.S. No charge -- all the other parts in the bin took up a collection to > pay his fine -- seems they don't want him around since he is such a bad > boy!! > > Besides being a great humorist, Bob Avery is a stand up guy. I must have > been out of warranty on the squeezer, but Bob came to the rescue at no > charge. > > For all of you out there building (or contemplating building) a RV you > really should get a pneumatic squeezer. It is indispensable. And if you > are wondering where to purchase such an implement, Avery tools would be the > obvious answer. A guy with this much devotion (and humor) just has to be > rewarded. > > Steve Ashby > > Stone Mountain, Georgia > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Frank Stringham" <fstringham(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Avery Tools
Date: Mar 22, 2006
Steve and all you other rivet squeezers/bangers Had a problem with my 90 degree drill that I bought from Avery. Contacted Bob...he said send it and I will check it out. He did! Sent it back ASAP. Has worked great since. Avery is the best. Bye the way the 90 degree drill is off probabtion, but I understand is in a witness protection program because of rating out a bad squeezer bought from rival gang . Frank @ SGU and SLC... RV7A 75% complete 150% to go!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! >From: "Ashby Family Law" <sashby(at)ashbyfamilylaw.com> >Reply-To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com >To: >Subject: RV8-List: Avery Tools >Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2006 09:36:36 -0500 >


June 23, 2005 - March 25, 2006

RV8-Archive.digest.vol-ai