RV8-Archive.digest.vol-an
March 01, 2009 - August 15, 2009
Bart
----- Original Message ----
| From: | Edwardoconnor <edwardoconnor(at)mac.com> |
Sent: Saturday, February 21, 2009 9:01:17 PM
| Subject: | RV-8 Steel gear legs |
I have a set of steel gear legs for an RV-8 that I did not use as I installed Alum
gear. I was going to list on E-bay and Van's and Barnstomer but I could not
find the gear listed on Van's part's list to get a price to put on them. According
to my drawings, they are part # U-801L/R. Does anybody know what Van's
sold them for? Mine are powder coated but the coating chipped off in a few
places on the edges with all the moving I have done.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | RE: RV-List: RV-8 Rear Quad (was: Slick Start Module) |
Hi Dave,
Thanks for the feedback on the Slick Start.
I was browsing around your web site, www.aircraftersllc.com and found an RV-8 project you guys are working on:
http://www.aircraftersllc.com/projects/rv8_030114/index.htm
What caught my eye is specifically this picture:
http://www.aircraftersllc.com/projects/rv8_030114/inside.jpg
You guys did a really nice job getting rear throttle quad mounting. I notice,
though, that you've got a 2-way instead of the 3-way which I'm sure is due to
the limited space right there. I've been in a quandary on what to do there as
well as I would really like to have all three.
But here's my question. Since there's only room for two controls on the rear quad,
wouldn't it be better to have Throttle and *Prop* instead of Mixture? I'm
guessing maybe you picked that because that's the only other quad configuration
option Van's has, but I thought I'd ask.
I wonder who the manufacture of those quads are? Maybe we could get a special
Throttle/Prop version?
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880
At 11:53 AM 3/1/2009 Sunday, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Dave Saylor"
>
>Works very well with a single retard-point mag and no impulse couplings. Be
>sure to only start on the retard point, not on the single-point mag.
>
>Dave Saylor
>AirCrafters LLC
>140 Aviation Way
>Watsonville, CA
>831-722-9141
>831-750-0284 CL
>www.AirCraftersLLC.com
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Matt Dralle
>Sent: Sunday, March 01, 2009 10:00 AM
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Slick Start Module
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: Matt Dralle
>
>
>Anyone using the Slick Start module on their Lycoming? A pirep would be
>most appreciated...
>
>Matt Dralle
>RV-8 #82880
>Finishing Wiring
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Garey Wittich <gareywittich2000(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Elevator - Elev Trim Tab Skin (E-619) and Elev Counterbalance |
Skin (E-713)
Greetings:
Ref: RV-8A (RV-7 is the same = Drawing 4)
Looked on Matronics, but found no answers to these questions
Question 1:
When building the Elev Trim Tab Skin it says: 1) bend the Skin with the wooden
brake, 2) bend the 2 metal "tabs" that are at each end, 3) match drill the Trim
Tab Horns (E-717 and E-718) to the Skin. So far no problem, BUT now how do
you then dimple the Skin where the E-718 (INBOARD Trim Tab Horn) goes as the 2
rivets for it are approx 1/8" from the bent Skin Tab ????? One of the 2 rivets
is also near the bent trailing edge which makes it impossible to get at.
Question 2:
Instructions say to "bevel the inboard and aft edges of the Counterbalance Skin
(E-713) locally where the Counterbalance Skin overlaps the (Elev) Spar and Rib
flanges to provide a smooth transition between the Counterbalance Skin and the
Elevator Skin." This does not make sense. I can see "beveling" the Elev Skin
"at the point" where the Counterbalance Skin goes UNDER the Elev Skin to make
a smooth transition. Am I missing something ???
Appreciate your help,
Garey Wittich RV-8A Santa Monica, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Grove brake resevoir |
| From: | "rv8builder" <rv8builder(at)earthlink.net> |
I have a RV-8 under construction and have installed the Grove brake reservoir on
each brake master cylinder. It should be noted that I have the 'In-Flight'
adjustable rudder pedals. With the pedals at the full forward position, the brake
reservoirs do hit the firewall when the pedals are deflected. Has anyone
come up with a way to mount the Grove reservoirs in this situation with out the
reservoir hitting the firewall? Or do I have to just bit the bullet and install
the leaky nylon tubing!
Thanks in advance,
Dale
--------
Dale
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=234560#234560
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 with Grove Brake Reservoirs question |
At 12:07 PM 3/14/2009 Saturday, rv8builder wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "rv8builder"
>
>I have a RV-8 under construction and have installed the Grove brake reservoir
on each brake master cylinder. It should be noted that I have the 'In-Flight'
adjustable rudder pedals. With the pedals at the full forward position, the
brake reservoirs do hit the firewall when the pedals are deflected. Has anyone
come up with a way to mount the Grove reservoirs in this situation with out
the reservoir hitting the firewall? Or do I have to just bit the bullet and install
the leaky nylon tubing!
>
>Thanks in advance,
>Dale
>
>--------
>Dale
Hey Dale,
I grappled with the same issues. Here's what I ended up doing. It think its going
to work out pretty well.
http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=dralle&project=638&category=2973&log=67091&row=69
http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=dralle&project=638&category=2973&log=67025&row=46
http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=dralle&project=638&category=2973&log=67026&row=45
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 / N998RV (res)
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "james d winkler" <madman266(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Grove brake resevoir |
unless your 7 feet tall i doubt you will ever use the forward stop . I'm
5,10 and I'm on the first stop, also note that when you connect the rudder
cables , the pedals tilt aft reducing the possibility of reservoir reaching
the firewall...j
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Rice <rice737(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Grove brake resevoir |
Hey Dale=2C
I have the same reservoirs. I'm 5'10" with and inseam of 32 inches=2C and
have my adjustable peddles in the closest hole to me. This gives me just t
he right amount of knee bend and is very comfortable. So unless you are ve
ry tall with long legs=2C you probable will not be using the hole closest t
o the firewall. Good luck.
Paul
RV8 140 hours
Flying Siren.
> Subject: RV8-List: Grove brake resevoir
> From: rv8builder(at)earthlink.net
> Date: Sat=2C 14 Mar 2009 12:06:41 -0700
> To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>
>
> I have a RV-8 under construction and have installed the Grove brake reser
voir on each brake master cylinder. It should be noted that I have the 'In-
Flight' adjustable rudder pedals. With the pedals at the full forward posit
ion=2C the brake reservoirs do hit the firewall when the pedals are deflect
ed. Has anyone come up with a way to mount the Grove reservoirs in this sit
uation with out the reservoir hitting the firewall? Or do I have to just bi
t the bullet and install the leaky nylon tubing!
>
> Thanks in advance=2C
> Dale
>
> --------
> Dale
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=234560#234560
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dale Ellis <rv8builder(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Grove brake resevoir |
It sounds like I need to hang and rig the rudder before I try to make adjustments.
Thanks,
Dale
-----Original Message-----
>From: james d winkler <madman266(at)comcast.net>
>Sent: Mar 14, 2009 3:40 PM
>To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV8-List: Grove brake resevoir
>
>
>unless your 7 feet tall i doubt you will ever use the forward stop . I'm
>5,10 and I'm on the first stop, also note that when you connect the rudder
>cables , the pedals tilt aft reducing the possibility of reservoir reaching
>the firewall...j
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vincent Himsl <vshimsl(at)live.com> |
| Subject: | Drilling hole in Precision Carburetor Throttle arm |
Hello=2C
The Van's throttle and mixture cables do not have enough throw for my preci
sion carburetor (Part of Aerosport package). The only option I have left is
to drill another hole in the throttle and mixture arms at the carburetor t
o increase the effectiveness of the throw I do have.
I understand some metal parts are cast and drilling is a no-no. Has anyone
been down this road? Your solution?
Thanks=2C
Vince H.
rv8 N8432
RV8 "wrapping things up for inspection"
_________________________________________________________________
Windows Live=99 Groups: Create an online spot for your favorite groups to m
eet.
http://windowslive.com/online/groups?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_groups_032009
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Myers" <jmyers(at)flyingmranch.us> |
| Subject: | Re: Drilling hole in Precision Carburetor Throttle arm |
Vince, I had the same problem with the mixture cable. Even got a new
cable from Van's. I think I remember that it had about an 1/8" greater
travel but not much. Same problem with it after a major pain to replace
it. Throttle cable was okay for my throttle linkage on the the MA4-5
that I have.
I ended up adjusting the mixture cable linkage so that it would go to
full idle cutoff. Turns out that my MA4-5 (10-3878) is so rich that it
was not a problem at full rich position. My flow meter indicates it is
putting almost 18 gph through it at (my) full rich/full power. I talked
with Precision and they said no shorter mixture arm available.
I suppose you could special order a cable with more travel and then
possibly drill another hole in your throttle quadrant arm to give you
more travel if it is needed, but it wasn't necessary for me.
No help with your problem but one data point.
John RV-8 N851JM
----- Original Message -----
From: Vincent Himsl
To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, March 15, 2009 9:57 AM
Subject: RV8-List: Drilling hole in Precision Carburetor Throttle arm
Hello,
The Van's throttle and mixture cables do not have enough throw for my
precision carburetor (Part of Aerosport package). The only option I have
left is to drill another hole in the throttle and mixture arms at the
carburetor to increase the effectiveness of the throw I do have.
I understand some metal parts are cast and drilling is a no-no. Has
anyone been down this road? Your solution?
Thanks,
Vince H.
rv8 N8432
RV8 "wrapping things up for inspection"
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
Windows Live=99 Groups: Create an online spot for your favorite groups
to meet. Check it out.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Drilling hole in Precision Carburetor Throttle arm |
Don't drill.
Just order a new custom cable from Van's. They can have those green cables made
in any length you want. If you haven't scratched or marred the original one,
I bet Van's will take it back.
Lead time on custom cables is short, like maybe a week or so.
Matt
At 07:57 AM 3/15/2009 Sunday, you wrote:
>Hello,
>
>The Van's throttle and mixture cables do not have enough throw for my precision
carburetor (Part of Aerosport package). The only option I have left is to drill
another hole in the throttle and mixture arms at the carburetor to increase
the effectiveness of the throw I do have.
>
>I understand some metal parts are cast and drilling is a no-no. Has anyone been
down this road? Your solution?
>
>Thanks,
>Vince H.
>rv8 N8432
>RV8 "wrapping things up for inspection"
>
>
>----------
>Windows Live Groups: Create an online spot for your favorite groups to meet. <http://windowslive.com/online/groups?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_groups_032009>Check it out.
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Drilling hole in Precision Carburetor Throttle arm |
| From: | "MARGHERITIS, ALEX F." <AMARGHERITIS(at)lawa.org> |
Vince,
I too had this problem. I drilled new holes just above the existing
holes on the mixture and throttle levers at the quadrant. This gave me
the throw I needed.
Alex
RV-8 N214MK 240hrs
________________________________
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Myers
Sent: Sunday, March 15, 2009 8:44 AM
Subject: Re: RV8-List: Drilling hole in Precision Carburetor Throttle
arm
Vince, I had the same problem with the mixture cable. Even got a new
cable from Van's. I think I remember that it had about an 1/8" greater
travel but not much. Same problem with it after a major pain to replace
it. Throttle cable was okay for my throttle linkage on the the MA4-5
that I have.
I ended up adjusting the mixture cable linkage so that it would go to
full idle cutoff. Turns out that my MA4-5 (10-3878) is so rich that it
was not a problem at full rich position. My flow meter indicates it is
putting almost 18 gph through it at (my) full rich/full power. I talked
with Precision and they said no shorter mixture arm available.
I suppose you could special order a cable with more travel and then
possibly drill another hole in your throttle quadrant arm to give you
more travel if it is needed, but it wasn't necessary for me.
No help with your problem but one data point.
John RV-8 N851JM
----- Original Message -----
From: Vincent Himsl <mailto:vshimsl(at)live.com>
To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, March 15, 2009 9:57 AM
Subject: RV8-List: Drilling hole in Precision Carburetor
Throttle arm
Hello,
The Van's throttle and mixture cables do not have enough throw
for my precision carburetor (Part of Aerosport package). The only option
I have left is to drill another hole in the throttle and mixture arms at
the carburetor to increase the effectiveness of the throw I do have.
I understand some metal parts are cast and drilling is a no-no.
Has anyone been down this road? Your solution?
Thanks,
Vince H.
rv8 N8432
RV8 "wrapping things up for inspection"
________________________________
Windows Live(tm) Groups: Create an online spot for your favorite
groups to meet. Check it out.
<http://windowslive.com/online/groups?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_groups_032009>
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV8-List">http://www.matronics
.
com/Navigator?RV8-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Esten Spears" <ewspears(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | =?iso-8859-1?Q?=22We_Love_RV's=22_Invitational_Luncheon_April_18th_2009_a?= |
=?iso-8859-1?Q?t_Leeward_Air_Ranch?
The Leeward Air Ranch RVators are having their Annual "We Love RV's"
Invitational Luncheon April 18th at Leeward Air Ranch, (FD04), near
Ocala, FL. April 18th is the weekend before Sun n Fun. We expect a lot
of out of state RV's since we are only 67NM North of Lakeland (LAL). We
are tentatively setting the 19th as a rain date.
This gathering is by invitation only. If you think you can make it,
Please email:RVators(at)Gmail.com with your name and number of people that
will attend with you (wife, kids, or friends), what RV or other plane
you will be arriving in, or note if driving (car/motorcycle).
We will email you back with an Invitation including flying, driving, and
Event Information.
Please inform any other RV Enthusiasts you know about our Gathering and
have them email us with the info requested for their personal invitation
(name added to invitee list).
The many RVators at Leeward Air Ranch hope you can make it!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com> |
| Subject: | RV-8A project for sale, Seattle |
RV-8A project, $75,000
Terry Watson
19537 - 55th Avenue NE
Lake Forest Park, WA 98155
(206) 365-2657
RV-8A #80729 slow build project near Seattle; 2500 hours and over $95,000
invested over 11 years. Estimate 90% plus complete
. Tail complete, fitted to fuselage & removed for storage
. Wings complete except bottom skins and wingtips
. Fuselage complete except as noted below
. Engine installed, electrical in progress
Engine: New Aero Sport Power IO-360-B1B
. 1 Lightspeed Plasma II ignition installed on right side
. 1 Slick mag installed on left side
. Airflow performance fuel injection installed
. Engine installed on airframe with plumbing, baffles, engine & prop
controls complete
. Oil cooler with louvered air control installed
. Custom louvered alternate air source installed in filtered air box
Controls
. Rear seat throttle & rudder pedals installed
. Front seat Infinity stick grip on custom shortened and bent stick
installed
. Alternate air, oil filter air flow, and fuel cut-off controls installed
. Throttle, mixture, and prop controls installed
. Cabin heat & control installed
. Electric trim & flaps installed
. Deluxe throttle quadrant installed
. Ground adjustable front rudder pedals installed
. Andair fuel valve installed
Propeller
. New Whirlwind 200RV still in shipping crate
. Prop control servo, oil line & controls installed
Avionics & Instruments
. Blue Mountain Avionics EFIS/one with remote keypad with magnetometer,
GPS antenna, & engine sensors installed
Approach Systems Pro G rev. C avionics hub installed
. TruTrak Pictorial Pilot wing leveler autopilot; servo installed
. Treo Avionics EZ series altitude control autopilot; servo installed
. Garmin 340 comm panel still in box
. 2.25" airspeed with RV-8 markings
. 2.25" backup altimeter
. 2.25" Vertical Velocity Indicator
. Trim indicators
. AoA Sport angle of attack, custom mount on top of panel
. Fuel low level warning system partially installed
. Hinged instrument panel to allow access behind panel (final panel not
yet cut)
Wings
. Complete except bottom skin & wing tips
. Landing and taxi lights installed
. Capacitive sensors in fuel tanks
. Flop tube in right tank; standard pickup left tank
. Heated pitot tube
. Angle of Attack sensors installed
. Old style wing tips not yet installed
. Wing root mounted Andair gascolator/filter installed
. Wings have not been fit to fuselage
Fuselage
. Complete except front top skin left off for wiring so baggage door has
not been started
. Front top skin fitted to fuselage and has avionics access ports each
side between panel and baggage compartment bulkhead. Access also provided
through baggage compartment bulkhead
. Canopy complete with Sikaflex & rivets. Skirts and latch complete;
windscreen not installed
. Cowl fitted with hinge pins on sides, twist lock fittings at firewall
Interior
. No seats or upholstery, except aluminum supports
. Rear floorboards fitted but not riveted
. Front & rear baggage compartments complete
. Hooker harnesses not yet installed
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wally Allington" <rv8(at)summergrove.net> |
| Subject: | "We Love RV's" Invitational Luncheon April 18th 2009 at |
Leeward Air Ranch
Thanks anyway but we're not flying quite yet. We should be in the air in
May
Wally & Ben Allington
_____
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Esten Spears
Sent: Monday, March 16, 2009 6:13 PM
Subject: RV8-List: "We Love RV's" Invitational Luncheon April 18th 2009 at
Leeward Air Ranch
The Leeward Air Ranch RVators are having their Annual "We Love RV's"
Invitational Luncheon April 18th at Leeward Air Ranch, (FD04), near Ocala,
FL. April 18th is the weekend before Sun n Fun. We expect a lot of out of
state RV's since we are only 67NM North of Lakeland (LAL). We are
tentatively setting the 19th as a rain date.
This gathering is by invitation only. If you think you can make it, Please
email:RVators(at)Gmail.com with your name and number of people that will attend
with you (wife, kids, or friends), what RV or other plane you will be
arriving in, or note if driving (car/motorcycle).
We will email you back with an Invitation including flying, driving, and
Event Information.
Please inform any other RV Enthusiasts you know about our Gathering and have
them email us with the info requested for their personal invitation (name
added to invitee list).
The many RVators at Leeward Air Ranch hope you can make it!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JAPhillipsGA(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: "We Love RV's" Invitational Luncheon April 18th 2009 at |
Leeward...
Sure wish I could make it. I have a good friend that lives there, Mr. John
Carson. I would be very pleased to meet him face to face after talking with
him so many times over the years. Unfortunately, as S n F is the following week
my grand kids can only get out of school a few days to attend and camp out
with us so I'll have to decline. Maybe I'll have my RV-8a finished by next
year and we can fly to attend. Thanks again, Bill Phillips
In a message dated 3/17/2009 9:54:55 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
rv8(at)summergrove.net writes:
Thanks anyway but we're not flying quite yet. We should be in the air in
May
Wally & Ben Allington
____________________________________
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Esten Spears
Sent: Monday, March 16, 2009 6:13 PM
Subject: RV8-List: "We Love RV's" Invitational Luncheon April 18th 2009 at
Leeward Air Ranch
The Leeward Air Ranch RVators are having their Annual "We Love RV's"
Invitational Luncheon April 18th at Leeward Air Ranch, (FD04), near Ocala, FL.
April
18th is the weekend before Sun n Fun. We expect a lot of out of state RV's
since we are only 67NM North of Lakeland (LAL). We are tentatively setting the
19th as a rain date.
This gathering is by invitation only. If you think you can make it, Please
email:RVators(at)Gmail.com with your name and number of people that will attend
with you (wife, kids, or friends), what RV or other plane you will be arriving
in, or note if driving (car/motorcycle).
We will email you back with an Invitation including flying, driving, and
Event Information.
Please inform any other RV Enthusiasts you know about our Gathering and have
them email us with the info requested for their personal invitation (name
added to invitee list).
The many RVators at Leeward Air Ranch hope you can make it!
http://www.matronics..com/Navigator?RV8-List
http://forums.matronics.com
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
(http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV8-List)
(http://www.matronics.com/contribution)
**************Feeling the pinch at the grocery store? Make dinner for $10 or
less. (http://food.aol.com/frugal-feasts?ncid=emlcntusfood00000001)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Garey Wittich <gareywittich2000(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Filler for "Unwanted" Rivet Holes ??? |
Greetings:
What material have you Builders used to fill in a couple of unwanted holes in the
Skin, where a rivet can NOT be placed to plug the hole ????
Is Super-Fil a possible solution ????
Thanks, Garey Wittich Santa Monica, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dean Merchant" <deanmerchant(at)wowway.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Filler for "Unwanted" Rivet Holes ??? |
Gary,
For the RV-8, I use a "stick-on" bullet hole.
Dean
----- Original Message -----
From: "Garey Wittich" <gareywittich2000(at)yahoo.com>
;
Sent: Thursday, March 26, 2009 1:02 AM
Subject: RV8-List: Filler for "Unwanted" Rivet Holes ???
>
>
> Greetings:
>
> What material have you Builders used to fill in a couple of unwanted holes
> in the Skin, where a rivet can NOT be placed to plug the hole ????
>
> Is Super-Fil a possible solution ????
>
> Thanks, Garey Wittich Santa Monica, CA
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jbombard" <jbombard(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Filler for "Unwanted" Rivet Holes ??? |
Gary,
A little "JB Weld" worked for me.
Jack
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dean Merchant" <deanmerchant(at)wowway.com>
Sent: Thursday, March 26, 2009 8:16 AM
Subject: Re: RV8-List: Filler for "Unwanted" Rivet Holes ???
>
> Gary,
> For the RV-8, I use a "stick-on" bullet hole.
> Dean
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Garey Wittich" <gareywittich2000(at)yahoo.com>
> To: ; ;
> ;
> Sent: Thursday, March 26, 2009 1:02 AM
> Subject: RV8-List: Filler for "Unwanted" Rivet Holes ???
>
>
>>
>>
>>
>> Greetings:
>>
>> What material have you Builders used to fill in a couple of unwanted
>> holes in the Skin, where a rivet can NOT be placed to plug the hole ????
>>
>> Is Super-Fil a possible solution ????
>>
>> Thanks, Garey Wittich Santa Monica, CA
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> --
> Release Date: 3/20/2009 6:59 AM
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "E Stone" <estone(at)mchsi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Filler for "Unwanted" Rivet Holes ??? |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JAPhillipsGA(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Filler for "Unwanted" Rivet Holes ??? |
JB Weld has worked well for me in the past. Sands smooth, fairly strong and
sticks to primer and paint. best of luck, Bill
In a message dated 3/26/2009 1:04:48 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
gareywittich2000(at)yahoo.com writes:
--> RV8-List message posted by: Garey Wittich
Greetings:
What material have you Builders used to fill in a couple of unwanted holes
in the Skin, where a rivet can NOT be placed to plug the hole ????
Is Super-Fil a possible solution ????
Thanks, Garey Wittich Santa Monica, CA
**************Feeling the pinch at the grocery store? Make dinner for $10 or
less. (http://food.aol.com/frugal-feasts?ncid=emlcntusfood00000001)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Mounting A Rear Throttle Quad In An RV-8... |
Maybe everyone but me found this easy to figure out, but then again maybe not.
I just finished mounting a two lever, round-y top, Dayton Murdock throttle quadrant
in the rear of the RV-8. I think it came out really nice, so I thought
I'd share. Exactly how to do it didn't seem that intuitive at first. I really
wanted a matching throttle quadrant to the front, rather than just the single
stock Van's kit.
I'm going with throttle and prop controls in the rear (no mixture) since there
isn't enough room for a three-control quadrant like in the front. Having a prop
control in the rear in liew of the mixture seems like it makes way more sense
to me.
BTW, as far as I know, Van's only sells the flat-top quadrants. There is a round-y
top version as well that is available from Aircraft Spruce. The round-y
top version of the three-lever quadrant fits WAY better in the stock mount in
the front of the RV-8. I mean WAY better.
Here's a link to my RV-8 construction site, specifically on the rear throttle quad
mount:
Page 1:
http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=dralle&project=638&category=0&log=76158&row=2
Page 2:
http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=dralle&project=638&category=0&log=76159&row=1
Happy building!
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 / N998RV (res)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV8- Rudder Tip |
| From: | japhillipsga(at)aol.com |
Dear RV builders, I'm attaching my empennage tips and I have a question about the
rudder bottom.? I have a strobe light in the rear edge and I've installed the
tip with #6 screws and nutplates. Concerning the forward opening area under
the bottom hinge eye bearing bolt. Has anyone closed that area in with fiberglass
and resin ? I understand it needs a drain hole and?wiring access, but we
closed off all the other tips in the HV & HS. ?Any opinion is appreciated. Best
regards, Bill of Georgia
-----Original Message-----
From: RV8-List Digest Server <rv8-list(at)matronics.com>
Sent: Tue, 14 Apr 2009 2:58 am
Subject: RV8-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 04/13/09
*
=================================================
Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive
=================================================
Today's complete RV8-List Digest can also be found in either of the
two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest formatted
in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked Indexes
and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII version
of the RV8-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic text editor
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-Matt Dralle, List Admin.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Carpet Pattern Ideas For RV-8 Foot wells... |
Does anyone have some ideas and/or pictures of how they carpeted the passenger
foot wells on their RV-8? Specifically how they integrated it with the cabin
area carpet piece. I'm thinking of just a square hole cut out around the parameter
of the foot well, then adding some sort of insert into the foot well itself.
That's a lot of weird angles, though.
Thanks!
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880
Ah, Carpet Pattern Making...
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List Digest: Dynon & Transponders |
| From: | japhillipsga(at)aol.com |
Hello good folks, I am going?to buy a transponder for my RV-8a. My concerns are
that I plan to install a D100 & D120 with AP in my panel and I'm unsure which
transponders are not compatible. Anybody know where I can find this out? Best
regards, Bill of Georgia
-----Original Message-----
From: RV8-List Digest Server <rv8-list(at)matronics.com>
Sent: Thu, 7 May 2009 2:58 am
Subject: RV8-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 05/06/09
*
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Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive
=================================================
Today's complete RV8-List Digest can also be found in either of the
two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest formatted
in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked Indexes
and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII version
of the RV8-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic text editor
such as Notepad or with a web browser.
HTML Version:
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1. 08:54 PM - Carpet Pattern Ideas For RV-8 Foot wells... (Matt Dralle)
________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: RV8-List: Carpet Pattern Ideas For RV-8 Foot wells...
Does anyone have some ideas and/or pictures of how they carpeted the passenger
foot wells on their RV-8? Specifically how they integrated it with the cabin
area carpet piece. I'm thinking of just a square hole cut out around the
parameter
of the foot well, then adding some sort of insert into the foot well itself.
That's a lot of weird angles, though.
Thanks!
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880
Ah, Carpet Pattern Making...
==================================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Heath Cherneski" <heath.cherneski(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List Digest: Dynon & Transponders |
Bill,
I have the d-100, d-120 combo and a garmin 327. works great. I think it
will be a challenge to find a transponder that won't work with dynon stuff.
garmin transponder is a great piece of equipment by the way and reasonably
priced. Good luck
Heath Cherneski
heath.cherneski(at)gmail.com
hchernes(at)utsi.edu
heath.cherneski(at)us.army.mil
_____
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
japhillipsga(at)aol.com
Sent: Thursday, May 07, 2009 8:20 AM
Subject: RV8-List: Re: RV8-List Digest: Dynon & Transponders
Hello good folks, I am going to buy a transponder for my RV-8a. My concerns
are that I plan to install a D100 & D120 with AP in my panel and I'm unsure
which transponders are not compatible. Anybody know where I can find this
out? Best regards, Bill of Georgia
-----Original Message-----
From: RV8-List Digest Server <rv8-list(at)matronics.com>
Sent: Thu, 7 May 2009 2:58 am
Subject: RV8-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 05/06/09
*
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two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest formatted
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and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII version
of the RV8-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic text editor
such as Notepad or with a web browser.
HTML Version:
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Text Version:
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----------------------------------------------------------
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----------------------
1. 08:54 PM - Carpet Pattern Ideas For RV-8 Foot wells... (Matt
Dralle)
________________________________ Message 1
_____________________________________
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: RV8-List: Carpet Pattern Ideas For RV-8 Foot wells...
Does anyone have some ideas and/or pictures of how they carpeted the
passenger
foot wells on their RV-8? Specifically how they integrated it with the
cabin
area carpet piece. I'm thinking of just a square hole cut out around the
parameter
of the foot well, then adding some sort of insert into the foot well itself.
That's a lot of weird angles, though.
Thanks!
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880
Ah, Carpet Pattern Making...
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List Digest: Dynon & Transponders |
| From: | japhillipsga(at)aol.com |
Heath, thanks for the info. I'm not familiar with the 327, but I'll look
it up. I have a KY 76 in my XL that I fly now that is not fancy, but serv
es the purpose. I'm going to install the cheapest transponder I can find
in my 8a. The two Dynon system you have, do you have the AP system with
is as well ? I think that is a great leap forward in glasss. I am waiting
for my 0-360 and prop to arrive (early June) that I purchased through Van
s at SnF so I'm making my shopping list for the panel. I think Dynon is th
e best pop for the buck. Thanks, Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: Heath Cherneski <heath.cherneski(at)gmail.com>
Sent: Thu, 7 May 2009 11:46 am
Subject: RE: RV8-List: Re: RV8-List Digest: Dynon & Transponders
Bill,
I have the d-100, d-120 combo and a garmin 327.=C2- works great.=C2-
I think it will be a challenge to find a transponder that won=99t
work with dynon stuff.=C2- garmin transponder is a great piece of equip
ment by the way and reasonably priced.=C2- Good luck
=C2-
Heath Cherneski
heath.cherneski(at)gmail.com
hchernes(at)utsi.edu
heath.cherneski(at)us.army.mil
=C2-
=C2-
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server@ma
tronics.com] On Behalf Of japhillipsga(at)aol.com
Sent: Thursday, May 07, 2009 8:20 AM
Subject: RV8-List: Re: RV8-List Digest: Dynon & Transponders
=C2-
Hello good folks, I am going=C2-to buy a transponder for my RV-8a. My co
ncerns are that I plan to install20a D100 & D120 with AP in my panel and
I'm unsure which transponders are not compatible. Anybody know where I ca
n find this out? Best regards, Bill of Georgia
-----Original Message-----
From: RV8-List Digest Server <rv8-list(at)matronics.com>
Sent: Thu, 7 May 2009 2:58 am
Subject: RV8-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 05/06/09
*
=C2-
=C2-=C2- Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive
=C2-
Today's complete RV8-List Digest can also be found in either of the
two Web Links listed below.=C2- The .html file includes the Digest forma
tted
in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked Indexes
and Message Navigation.=C2- The .txt file includes the plain ASCII versi
on
of the RV8-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic text editor
such as Notepad or with a web browser.
=C2-
HTML Version:
=C2-
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82701&View=html&Chapter 09-05-06&Archive=RV8
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Text Version:
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=C2-
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======================
=C2-=C2- EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive
======================
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=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2- =C2-=C2-=C2-
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=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-
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---------------------------------------------
=C2-
Today's Message Index:
----------------------
=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-1. 08:54 PM - Carpet Pattern Ideas For RV-8
Foot wells...=C2- (Matt Dralle)
=C2-
=C2-
________________________________=C2- Message 1=C2- ___________________
__________________
=C2-
=C2-
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: RV8-List: Carpet Pattern Ideas For RV-8 Foot wells...
=C2-
=C2-
=C2-
Does anyone have some ideas and/or pictures of how they carpeted the passe
nger
foot wells on their RV-8?=C2- Specifically how they integrated it with
the cabin
area carpet piece.=C2- I'm thinking of just a square hole cut out around
the
parameter
of the foot well, then adding some sort of insert into the foot well itsel
f.
That's a lot of weird angles, though.
=C2-
Thanks!
=C2-
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880
Ah, Carpet Pattern Making...
=C2-
=C2-
=C2-
=C2-
=C2-
=C2-
=C2-
=C2-
=C2-
http://www.matronics.com/Nav
igator?RV8-List
http://forums.matronics.com
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
=C2-
========================
===========
-= - The RV8-List Email Forum -
-= Use the Matronics List Features Navigator to browse
-= the many List utilities such as List Un/Subscription,
-= Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ,
-= Photoshare, and much much more:
-
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-= --> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
-========================
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===========
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Craig Gallenbach <craigtxtx(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List Digest: Dynon & Transponders |
Bill,
-
I have a D100 & D120 in my 8A with a Garmin GTX 327.- They play well toge
ther.-
-
I believe the installation manual listed several compatible xpndrs.- When
in doubt, call Dynon.- They were very responsive when I called them for
info.
-
Craig Gallenbach
RV8A 184CG- 58 hours
--- On Thu, 5/7/09, japhillipsga(at)aol.com wrote:
From: japhillipsga(at)aol.com <japhillipsga(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV8-List: Re: RV8-List Digest: Dynon & Transponders
Date: Thursday, May 7, 2009, 8:20 AM
Hello good folks, I am going-to buy a transponder for my RV-8a. My concer
ns are that I plan to install a D100 & D120 with AP in my panel and I'm uns
ure which transponders are not compatible. Anybody know where I can find th
is out? Best regards, Bill of Georgia
-----Original Message-----
From: RV8-List Digest Server <rv8-list(at)matronics.com>
Sent: Thu, 7 May 2009 2:58 am
Subject: RV8-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 05/06/09
*
========================
Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive
========================
Today's complete RV8-List Digest can also be found in either of the
two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest formatted
in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked Indexes
and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII version
of the RV8-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic text editor
such as Notepad or with a web browser.
HTML Version:
http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=htm
l&Chapter 09-05-06&Archive=RV8
Text Version:
http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=txt
&Chapter 09-05-06&Archive=RV8
========================
=======================
EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive
========================
=======================
----------------------------------------------------------
RV8-List Digest Archive
---
Total Messages Posted Wed 05/06/09: 1
----------------------------------------------------------
Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 08:54 PM - Carpet Pattern Ideas For RV-8 Foot wells... (Matt Drall
e)
________________________________ Message 1 ______________________________
_______
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: RV8-List: Carpet Pattern Ideas For RV-8 Foot wells...
Does anyone have some ideas and/or pictures of how they carpeted the passen
ger
foot wells on their RV-8? Specifically how they integrated it with the cab
in
area carpet piece. I'm thinking of just a square hole cut out around the
parameter
of the foot well, then adding some sort of insert into the foot well itself
.
That's a lot of weird angles, though.
Thanks!
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880
Ah, Carpet Pattern Making...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kopp, Kenneth G CDR HSM-70, N0 Exec Staff" <kenneth.kopp(at)navy.mil> |
Fellow RV8 builders -
This is my first post (not sure it will even go through?). I'm complete with Emp/Wings,
awaiting my fuselage kit (mid June).
Looking at lighting options I'm shocked at the cost of postion/strob lights, particularly
the LED type.
Has anyone considered or is currently using automotive LED lighting?
Any other low cost options out there?
Thanks!
Ken
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
At 10:50 AM 5/7/2009 Thursday, you wrote:
> Fellow RV8 builders -
>
>This is my first post (not sure it will even go through?). I'm complete with Emp/Wings,
awaiting my fuselage kit (mid June).
>
>Looking at lighting options I'm shocked at the cost of postion/strob lights, particularly
the LED type.
>
>Has anyone considered or is currently using automotive LED lighting?
>
>Any other low cost options out there?
>
>Thanks!
>
>Ken
>
Hi Ken and Welcome!
Wait until you start shopping for an engine... Try on $20-30k for basically what
is a VW Bug engine is enough to rankle anyone. Nothing's cheap in this hobby.
And just because its "aircraft quality" doesn't necessarily mean its good
quality or worth the premium cost. That's being said, most of the components
I've been getting on for the RV-8 project in circa 2009 are better overall quality
than the stuff I was getting in circa 1989 for the RV-4 project.
More specifically to your question, I think I paid something like $825 for the
Whelen 3-strobe setup with integrated incandescent position lights (Van's calls
it their "System 6"). Good quality throughout, smaller power supply than the
circa 1990s system, and it works as advertised.
Another thing to consider when choosing components is the resale implications.
If you ever go to sell your plane - finished or not - being able to say that
you have all the "standard", "aircraft-grade" components will allow you to demand
the highest possible price.
I look at it this way. This is a once-in-a-lifetime, $100k-$150k project that
I may never get another chance to do in my life. Might as well not compromise
on any aspects.
My $.02
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880
Laying Out Carpet Patterns in CAD...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "james d winkler" <madman266(at)comcast.net> |
matt , when your finished with your carpet patterns , sell me a set...james
rv 8 n6830v
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Don McNamara" <N8RV(at)gte.net> |
Welcome!
Another thing to consider in the realm of strobes/nav lights is the recent
revelation on VAF that some people have had their wingtip lenses melt from
the heat of the incandescent nav lights (Whelen).
I haven't even flown yet and mine are already starting to melt, just from
testing them! So, before you whip out your Visa card and order the standard
Whelen strobe/nav light kit, consider the new LED nav lights. I'll be
buying them to replace my (brand new) incandescents.
Harrumph.
-- Don McNamara
N8RV
----- Original Message -----
From: "Matt Dralle" <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Sent: Thursday, May 07, 2009 4:57 PM
Subject: Re: RV8-List: Lights
>
>
> At 10:50 AM 5/7/2009 Thursday, you wrote:
>> Fellow RV8 builders -
>>
>>This is my first post (not sure it will even go through?). I'm complete
>>with Emp/Wings, awaiting my fuselage kit (mid June).
>>
>>Looking at lighting options I'm shocked at the cost of postion/strob
>>lights, particularly the LED type.
>>
>>Has anyone considered or is currently using automotive LED lighting?
>>
>>Any other low cost options out there?
>>
>>Thanks!
>>
>>Ken
>>
>
> Hi Ken and Welcome!
>
> Wait until you start shopping for an engine... Try on $20-30k for
> basically what is a VW Bug engine is enough to rankle anyone. Nothing's
> cheap in this hobby. And just because its "aircraft quality" doesn't
> necessarily mean its good quality or worth the premium cost. That's being
> said, most of the components I've been getting on for the RV-8 project in
> circa 2009 are better overall quality than the stuff I was getting in
> circa 1989 for the RV-4 project.
>
> More specifically to your question, I think I paid something like $825 for
> the Whelen 3-strobe setup with integrated incandescent position lights
> (Van's calls it their "System 6"). Good quality throughout, smaller power
> supply than the circa 1990s system, and it works as advertised.
>
> Another thing to consider when choosing components is the resale
> implications. If you ever go to sell your plane - finished or not - being
> able to say that you have all the "standard", "aircraft-grade" components
> will allow you to demand the highest possible price.
>
> I look at it this way. This is a once-in-a-lifetime, $100k-$150k project
> that I may never get another chance to do in my life. Might as well not
> compromise on any aspects.
>
> My $.02
>
> Matt Dralle
> RV-8 #82880
> Laying Out Carpet Patterns in CAD...
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
At 02:29 PM 5/7/2009 Thursday, you wrote:
>
>matt , when your finished with your carpet patterns , sell me a set...james rv
8 n6830v
No problem. We'll see what we can work out. I'm doing a pretty precise layout,
so hopefully the fit will be nearly perfect and more importantly repeatable.
Ask me again in a month or so.
Matt
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
Oh great, now you tell me! :-)
I wonder what Van's has to say about the melting issue. Sounds like they're using
the wrong kind of clear plastic to form the lens.
I sure wish that Van's would just go with the older style boss-mount on the tips.
Those seemed like the cat's meow in terms of their ease of installation and
maintenance aspects.
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880
At 04:11 PM 5/7/2009 Thursday, you wrote:
>
>Welcome!
>
>Another thing to consider in the realm of strobes/nav lights is the recent revelation
on VAF that some people have had their wingtip lenses melt from the heat
of the incandescent nav lights (Whelen).
>
>I haven't even flown yet and mine are already starting to melt, just from testing
them! So, before you whip out your Visa card and order the standard Whelen
strobe/nav light kit, consider the new LED nav lights. I'll be buying them
to replace my (brand new) incandescents.
>
>Harrumph.
>
>-- Don McNamara
> N8RV
>
>
>----- Original Message ----- From: "Matt Dralle" <dralle(at)matronics.com>
>To:
>Sent: Thursday, May 07, 2009 4:57 PM
>Subject: Re: RV8-List: Lights
>
>
>>
>>
>>At 10:50 AM 5/7/2009 Thursday, you wrote:
>>>Fellow RV8 builders -
>>>
>>>This is my first post (not sure it will even go through?). I'm complete with
Emp/Wings, awaiting my fuselage kit (mid June).
>>>
>>>Looking at lighting options I'm shocked at the cost of postion/strob lights,
particularly the LED type.
>>>
>>>Has anyone considered or is currently using automotive LED lighting?
>>>
>>>Any other low cost options out there?
>>>
>>>Thanks!
>>>
>>>Ken
>>
>>Hi Ken and Welcome!
>>
>>Wait until you start shopping for an engine... Try on $20-30k for basically
what is a VW Bug engine is enough to rankle anyone. Nothing's cheap in this hobby.
And just because its "aircraft quality" doesn't necessarily mean its good
quality or worth the premium cost. That's being said, most of the components
I've been getting on for the RV-8 project in circa 2009 are better overall
quality than the stuff I was getting in circa 1989 for the RV-4 project.
>>
>>More specifically to your question, I think I paid something like $825 for the
Whelen 3-strobe setup with integrated incandescent position lights (Van's calls
it their "System 6"). Good quality throughout, smaller power supply than
the circa 1990s system, and it works as advertised.
>>
>>Another thing to consider when choosing components is the resale implications.
If you ever go to sell your plane - finished or not - being able to say that
you have all the "standard", "aircraft-grade" components will allow you to demand
the highest possible price.
>>
>>I look at it this way. This is a once-in-a-lifetime, $100k-$150k project that
I may never get another chance to do in my life. Might as well not compromise
on any aspects.
>>
>>My $.02
>>
>>Matt Dralle
>>RV-8 #82880
>>Laying Out Carpet Patterns in CAD...
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robin Marks" <robin1(at)mrmoisture.com> |
Just jumping in on this Nav Light conversation.
I paid a bundle for my -10 LED nav lights (impregnated on a circuit
board).
For my 8A I was considering some Green/Red LED Nav lights from eBay.
There are a million of them available.
Any reason why these will not work? $4.00, Free Shipping!
Robin
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Don McNamara
Sent: Thursday, May 07, 2009 4:12 PM
Subject: Re: RV8-List: Lights
Welcome!
Another thing to consider in the realm of strobes/nav lights is the
recent
revelation on VAF that some people have had their wingtip lenses melt
from
the heat of the incandescent nav lights (Whelen).
I haven't even flown yet and mine are already starting to melt, just
from
testing them! So, before you whip out your Visa card and order the
standard
Whelen strobe/nav light kit, consider the new LED nav lights. I'll be
buying them to replace my (brand new) incandescents.
Harrumph.
-- Don McNamara
N8RV
----- Original Message -----
From: "Matt Dralle" <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Sent: Thursday, May 07, 2009 4:57 PM
Subject: Re: RV8-List: Lights
>
>
> At 10:50 AM 5/7/2009 Thursday, you wrote:
>> Fellow RV8 builders -
>>
>>This is my first post (not sure it will even go through?). I'm
complete
>>with Emp/Wings, awaiting my fuselage kit (mid June).
>>
>>Looking at lighting options I'm shocked at the cost of postion/strob
>>lights, particularly the LED type.
>>
>>Has anyone considered or is currently using automotive LED lighting?
>>
>>Any other low cost options out there?
>>
>>Thanks!
>>
>>Ken
>>
>
> Hi Ken and Welcome!
>
> Wait until you start shopping for an engine... Try on $20-30k for
> basically what is a VW Bug engine is enough to rankle anyone.
Nothing's
> cheap in this hobby. And just because its "aircraft quality" doesn't
> necessarily mean its good quality or worth the premium cost. That's
being
> said, most of the components I've been getting on for the RV-8 project
in
> circa 2009 are better overall quality than the stuff I was getting in
> circa 1989 for the RV-4 project.
>
> More specifically to your question, I think I paid something like $825
for
> the Whelen 3-strobe setup with integrated incandescent position lights
> (Van's calls it their "System 6"). Good quality throughout, smaller
power
> supply than the circa 1990s system, and it works as advertised.
>
> Another thing to consider when choosing components is the resale
> implications. If you ever go to sell your plane - finished or not -
being
> able to say that you have all the "standard", "aircraft-grade"
components
> will allow you to demand the highest possible price.
>
> I look at it this way. This is a once-in-a-lifetime, $100k-$150k
project
> that I may never get another chance to do in my life. Might as well
not
> compromise on any aspects.
>
> My $.02
>
> Matt Dralle
> RV-8 #82880
> Laying Out Carpet Patterns in CAD...
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
05/07/09 18:05:00
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
You'll definitely want to consider the actual brightness of these. I suspect they
really aren't that bright when compared to the traditional incandescent lights
or even the newer aircraft LED units.
Check the lumens.
Matt
At 06:29 PM 5/7/2009 Thursday, you wrote:
>Just jumping in on this Nav Light conversation.
>I paid a bundle for my -10 LED nav lights (impregnated on a circuit board).
>
>For my 8A I was considering some Green/Red LED Nav lights from eBay. There are
a million of them available.
>Any reason why these will not work? $4.00, Free Shipping!
>
>
>
>
>Robin
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Don McNamara
>Sent: Thursday, May 07, 2009 4:12 PM
>To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV8-List: Lights
>
>
>Welcome!
>
>Another thing to consider in the realm of strobes/nav lights is the recent
>revelation on VAF that some people have had their wingtip lenses melt from
>the heat of the incandescent nav lights (Whelen).
>
>I haven't even flown yet and mine are already starting to melt, just from
>testing them! So, before you whip out your Visa card and order the standard
>Whelen strobe/nav light kit, consider the new LED nav lights. I'll be
>buying them to replace my (brand new) incandescents.
>
>Harrumph.
>
>-- Don McNamara
> N8RV
>
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Matt Dralle" <dralle(at)matronics.com>
>To:
>Sent: Thursday, May 07, 2009 4:57 PM
>Subject: Re: RV8-List: Lights
>
>
>>
>>
>> At 10:50 AM 5/7/2009 Thursday, you wrote:
>>> Fellow RV8 builders -
>>>
>>>This is my first post (not sure it will even go through?). I'm complete
>>>with Emp/Wings, awaiting my fuselage kit (mid June).
>>>
>>>Looking at lighting options I'm shocked at the cost of postion/strob
>>>lights, particularly the LED type.
>>>
>>>Has anyone considered or is currently using automotive LED lighting?
>>>
>>>Any other low cost options out there?
>>>
>>>Thanks!
>>>
>>>Ken
>>>
>>
>> Hi Ken and Welcome!
>>
>> Wait until you start shopping for an engine... Try on $20-30k for
>> basically what is a VW Bug engine is enough to rankle anyone. Nothing's
>> cheap in this hobby. And just because its "aircraft quality" doesn't
>> necessarily mean its good quality or worth the premium cost. That's being
>> said, most of the components I've been getting on for the RV-8 project in
>> circa 2009 are better overall quality than the stuff I was getting in
>> circa 1989 for the RV-4 project.
>>
>> More specifically to your question, I think I paid something like $825 for
>> the Whelen 3-strobe setup with integrated incandescent position lights
>> (Van's calls it their "System 6"). Good quality throughout, smaller power
>> supply than the circa 1990s system, and it works as advertised.
>>
>> Another thing to consider when choosing components is the resale
>> implications. If you ever go to sell your plane - finished or not - being
>> able to say that you have all the "standard", "aircraft-grade" components
>> will allow you to demand the highest possible price.
>>
>> I look at it this way. This is a once-in-a-lifetime, $100k-$150k project
>> that I may never get another chance to do in my life. Might as well not
>> compromise on any aspects.
>>
>> My $.02
>>
>> Matt Dralle
>> RV-8 #82880
>> Laying Out Carpet Patterns in CAD...
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>to browse
>Un/Subscription,
>Browse, Chat, FAQ,
>more:
>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV8-List
>
>Web Forums!
>http://forums.matronics.com
>
>support!
>
>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
>
>
>
>Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>270.12.20/2100 - Release Date: 05/07/09 18:05:00
>
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robin Marks" <robin1(at)mrmoisture.com> |
They are a heck of a lot brighter that the traditional Nav/Strobe
combination like these:
Robin
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Matt Dralle
Sent: Thursday, May 07, 2009 7:02 PM
Subject: RE: RV8-List: Lights
You'll definitely want to consider the actual brightness of these. I
suspect they really aren't that bright when compared to the traditional
incandescent lights or even the newer aircraft LED units.
Check the lumens.
Matt
At 06:29 PM 5/7/2009 Thursday, you wrote:
>Just jumping in on this Nav Light conversation.
>I paid a bundle for my -10 LED nav lights (impregnated on a circuit
board).
>
>For my 8A I was considering some Green/Red LED Nav lights from eBay.
There are a million of them available.
>Any reason why these will not work? $4.00, Free Shipping!
>
>
>
>
>
>Robin
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Don McNamara
>Sent: Thursday, May 07, 2009 4:12 PM
>To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV8-List: Lights
>
>
>Welcome!
>
>Another thing to consider in the realm of strobes/nav lights is the
recent
>revelation on VAF that some people have had their wingtip lenses melt
from
>the heat of the incandescent nav lights (Whelen).
>
>I haven't even flown yet and mine are already starting to melt, just
from
>testing them! So, before you whip out your Visa card and order the
standard
>Whelen strobe/nav light kit, consider the new LED nav lights. I'll be
>buying them to replace my (brand new) incandescents.
>
>Harrumph.
>
>-- Don McNamara
> N8RV
>
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Matt Dralle" <dralle(at)matronics.com>
>To:
>Sent: Thursday, May 07, 2009 4:57 PM
>Subject: Re: RV8-List: Lights
>
>
>>
>>
>> At 10:50 AM 5/7/2009 Thursday, you wrote:
>>> Fellow RV8 builders -
>>>
>>>This is my first post (not sure it will even go through?). I'm
complete
>>>with Emp/Wings, awaiting my fuselage kit (mid June).
>>>
>>>Looking at lighting options I'm shocked at the cost of postion/strob
>>>lights, particularly the LED type.
>>>
>>>Has anyone considered or is currently using automotive LED lighting?
>>>
>>>Any other low cost options out there?
>>>
>>>Thanks!
>>>
>>>Ken
>>>
>>
>> Hi Ken and Welcome!
>>
>> Wait until you start shopping for an engine... Try on $20-30k for
>> basically what is a VW Bug engine is enough to rankle anyone.
Nothing's
>> cheap in this hobby. And just because its "aircraft quality" doesn't
>> necessarily mean its good quality or worth the premium cost. That's
being
>> said, most of the components I've been getting on for the RV-8
project in
>> circa 2009 are better overall quality than the stuff I was getting in
>> circa 1989 for the RV-4 project.
>>
>> More specifically to your question, I think I paid something like
$825 for
>> the Whelen 3-strobe setup with integrated incandescent position
lights
>> (Van's calls it their "System 6"). Good quality throughout, smaller
power
>> supply than the circa 1990s system, and it works as advertised.
>>
>> Another thing to consider when choosing components is the resale
>> implications. If you ever go to sell your plane - finished or not -
being
>> able to say that you have all the "standard", "aircraft-grade"
components
>> will allow you to demand the highest possible price.
>>
>> I look at it this way. This is a once-in-a-lifetime, $100k-$150k
project
>> that I may never get another chance to do in my life. Might as well
not
>> compromise on any aspects.
>>
>> My $.02
>>
>> Matt Dralle
>> RV-8 #82880
>> Laying Out Carpet Patterns in CAD...
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>to browse
>Un/Subscription,
>Browse, Chat, FAQ,
>more:
>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV8-List
>
>Web Forums!
>http://forums.matronics.com
>
>support!
>
>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
>
>
>
>Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>270.12.20/2100 - Release Date: 05/07/09 18:05:00
>
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
05/07/09 18:05:00
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Don McNamara" <N8RV(at)gte.net> |
Sorry, Matt. Hurts me as much as it does you. ;-)
-- Don
----- Original Message -----
From: "Matt Dralle" <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Sent: Thursday, May 07, 2009 9:15 PM
Subject: Re: RV8-List: Lights
>
> Oh great, now you tell me! :-)
>
> I wonder what Van's has to say about the melting issue. Sounds like
> they're using the wrong kind of clear plastic to form the lens.
>
> I sure wish that Van's would just go with the older style boss-mount on
> the tips. Those seemed like the cat's meow in terms of their ease of
> installation and maintenance aspects.
>
> Matt Dralle
> RV-8 #82880
>
>
> At 04:11 PM 5/7/2009 Thursday, you wrote:
>>
>>Welcome!
>>
>>Another thing to consider in the realm of strobes/nav lights is the recent
>>revelation on VAF that some people have had their wingtip lenses melt from
>>the heat of the incandescent nav lights (Whelen).
>>
>>I haven't even flown yet and mine are already starting to melt, just from
>>testing them! So, before you whip out your Visa card and order the
>>standard Whelen strobe/nav light kit, consider the new LED nav lights.
>>I'll be buying them to replace my (brand new) incandescents.
>>
>>Harrumph.
>>
>>-- Don McNamara
>> N8RV
>>
>>
>>
>>----- Original Message ----- From: "Matt Dralle" <dralle(at)matronics.com>
>>To:
>>Sent: Thursday, May 07, 2009 4:57 PM
>>Subject: Re: RV8-List: Lights
>>
>>
>>>
>>>
>>>At 10:50 AM 5/7/2009 Thursday, you wrote:
>>>>Fellow RV8 builders -
>>>>
>>>>This is my first post (not sure it will even go through?). I'm complete
>>>>with Emp/Wings, awaiting my fuselage kit (mid June).
>>>>
>>>>Looking at lighting options I'm shocked at the cost of postion/strob
>>>>lights, particularly the LED type.
>>>>
>>>>Has anyone considered or is currently using automotive LED lighting?
>>>>
>>>>Any other low cost options out there?
>>>>
>>>>Thanks!
>>>>
>>>>Ken
>>>
>>>Hi Ken and Welcome!
>>>
>>>Wait until you start shopping for an engine... Try on $20-30k for
>>>basically what is a VW Bug engine is enough to rankle anyone. Nothing's
>>>cheap in this hobby. And just because its "aircraft quality" doesn't
>>>necessarily mean its good quality or worth the premium cost. That's
>>>being said, most of the components I've been getting on for the RV-8
>>>project in circa 2009 are better overall quality than the stuff I was
>>>getting in circa 1989 for the RV-4 project.
>>>
>>>More specifically to your question, I think I paid something like $825
>>>for the Whelen 3-strobe setup with integrated incandescent position
>>>lights (Van's calls it their "System 6"). Good quality throughout,
>>>smaller power supply than the circa 1990s system, and it works as
>>>advertised.
>>>
>>>Another thing to consider when choosing components is the resale
>>>implications. If you ever go to sell your plane - finished or not -
>>>being able to say that you have all the "standard", "aircraft-grade"
>>>components will allow you to demand the highest possible price.
>>>
>>>I look at it this way. This is a once-in-a-lifetime, $100k-$150k project
>>>that I may never get another chance to do in my life. Might as well not
>>>compromise on any aspects.
>>>
>>>My $.02
>>>
>>>Matt Dralle
>>>RV-8 #82880
>>>Laying Out Carpet Patterns in CAD...
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
> 925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
> http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "koppk1" <kenneth.kopp(at)navy.mil> |
Thanks Matt but this isn't my first go round. I plans built a BD-4 awhile back
(sold it to pay for the RV8). I'm using my brand new Xp-360 from the BD4 for the
RV8 so that is covered along with most of the avionics. Luckily the sale of
the BD mostly paid for the cost of the RV8 kit.
As far as lights are concerned I've found several places that produce/sell automotive LED lighting systems for mere fractions of the cost of the aviation brands check this site out : http://www.superbrightleds.com/tail-brake-turn.html and I'd venture the road environment is much harsher than where we normally fly.
I ordered several different bulbs and will test them out upon arrival.
I'll post my results soonest. thanks!
ken
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=243121#243121
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jesse Laub <jesse(at)casco.net> |
I have a Vans "6 Lighting System" for sale. I'm parting out my RV8A
project. It's complete except for the cables and connectors. My site
is www.rv8projectparts.net to check them out. $700 I won't be able to
reply for a few days, but can get back to you early next week.
Jesse
koppk1 wrote:
>
> Thanks Matt but this isn't my first go round. I plans built a BD-4 awhile back
(sold it to pay for the RV8). I'm using my brand new Xp-360 from the BD4 for
the RV8 so that is covered along with most of the avionics. Luckily the sale
of the BD mostly paid for the cost of the RV8 kit.
>
> As far as lights are concerned I've found several places that produce/sell automotive LED lighting systems for mere fractions of the cost of the aviation brands check this site out : http://www.superbrightleds.com/tail-brake-turn.html and I'd venture the road environment is much harsher than where we normally fly.
>
> I ordered several different bulbs and will test them out upon arrival.
>
> I'll post my results soonest. thanks!
>
> ken
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=243121#243121
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Heath Cherneski" <heath.cherneski(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List Digest: Dynon & Transponders |
Bill,
I do not have the autopilot. Purchased my equipment before it was offered.
I agree with your statement about dynon. I am currently working on a flight
test program that will "plug in" to the existing dynon serial output and
record flight information (flight and engine) for performing flight
performance evaluation. I'm a big dynon fan! Good luck with your project.
Blue skies
Heath Cherneski
heath.cherneski(at)gmail.com
hchernes(at)utsi.edu
heath.cherneski(at)us.army.mil
_____
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
japhillipsga(at)aol.com
Sent: Thursday, May 07, 2009 11:56 AM
Subject: Re: RV8-List: Re: RV8-List Digest: Dynon & Transponders
Heath, thanks for the info. I'm not familiar with the 327, but I'll look it
up. I have a KY 76 in my XL that I fly now that is not fancy, but serves the
purpose. I'm going to install the cheapest transponder I can find in my 8a.
The two Dynon system you have, do you have the AP system with is as well ? I
think that is a great leap forward in glasss. I am waiting for my 0-360 and
prop to arrive (early June) that I purchased through Vans at SnF so I'm
making my shopping list for the panel. I think Dynon is the best pop for the
buck. Thanks, Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: Heath Cherneski <heath.cherneski(at)gmail.com>
Sent: Thu, 7 May 2009 11:46 am
Subject: RE: RV8-List: Re: RV8-List Digest: Dynon & Transponders
Bill,
I have the d-100, d-120 combo and a garmin 327. works great. I think it
will be a challenge to find a transponder that won't work with dynon stuff.
garmin transponder is a great piece of equipment by the way and reasonably
priced. Good luck
Heath Cherneski
heath.cherneski(at)gmail.com
hchernes(at)utsi.edu
heath.cherneski(at)us.army.mil
_____
From: <mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com>
owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com [
mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
japhillipsga(at)aol.com
Sent: Thursday, May 07, 2009 8:20 AM
Subject: RV8-List: Re: RV8-List Digest: Dynon & Transponders
Hello good folks, I am going to buy a transponder for my RV-8a. My concerns
are that I plan to install a D100 & D120 with AP in my panel and I'm unsure
which transponders are not compatible. Anybody know where I can find this
out? Best regards, Bill of Georgia
-----Original Message-----
From: RV8-List Digest Server < <mailto:rv8-list(at)matronics.com>
rv8-list(at)matronics.com>
rv8-list-digest(at)matronics.com>
Sent: Thu, 7 May 2009 2:58 am
Subject: RV8-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 05/06/09
*
Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive
Today's complete RV8-List Digest can also be found in either of the
two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest formatted
in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked Indexes
and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII version
of the RV8-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic text editor
such as Notepad or with a web browser.
HTML Version:
<http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=html&Chapte
r 09-05-06&Archive=RV8>
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09-05-06&Archive=RV8
Text Version:
<http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=txt&Chapter
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2009-05-06&Archive=RV8
======================
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======================
----------------------------------------------------------
RV8-List Digest Archive
---
Total Messages Posted Wed 05/06/09: 1
----------------------------------------------------------
Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 08:54 PM - Carpet Pattern Ideas For RV-8 Foot wells... (Matt
Dralle)
________________________________ Message 1
_____________________________________
From: Matt Dralle < <mailto:dralle(at)matronics.com> dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: RV8-List: Carpet Pattern Ideas For RV-8 Foot wells...
Does anyone have some ideas and/or pictures of how they carpeted the
passenger
foot wells on their RV-8? Specifically how they integrated it with the
cabin
area carpet piece. I'm thinking of just a square hole cut out around the=2
0
parameter
of the foot well, then adding some sort of insert into the foot well itself.
That's a lot of weird angles, though.
Thanks!
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880
Ah, Carpet Pattern Making...
<http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV8-List>
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV8-List
<http://forums.matronics.com/> http://forums.matronics.com
<http://www.matronics.com/contribution>
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
===================================
get=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV8-List
===================================================
tp://forums.matronics.com
===================================
_blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
===================================
_____
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steven DiNieri" <capsteve(at)iflyrv10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Carpet Pattern Ideas For RV-8 Foot wells... |
Matt,
if you can get me a picture and some dimensions ( or templates) I'll
make up a set. it may take a few tries, but I'd give you a free set when
we're done for the effort. I don't have any access to an rv8, but I'd love
to have a good set of templates around to offer for sale afterward..
steve
iflyrv10.com
--------------------------------------------------
From: "Matt Dralle" <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Sent: Wednesday, May 06, 2009 11:53 PM
Subject: RV8-List: Carpet Pattern Ideas For RV-8 Foot wells...
>
>
> Does anyone have some ideas and/or pictures of how they carpeted the
> passenger foot wells on their RV-8? Specifically how they integrated it
> with the cabin area carpet piece. I'm thinking of just a square hole cut
> out around the parameter of the foot well, then adding some sort of insert
> into the foot well itself. That's a lot of weird angles, though.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Matt Dralle
> RV-8 #82880
> Ah, Carpet Pattern Making...
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Mersek" <1rv6flyer(at)internet49.com> |
| Subject: | RV10 Tail Kit for Sale |
I'm posting this for a local RV-6 pilot who is unable to complete his
RV10 project. The project is located at Calaveras Airport San Andreas,
CA. (KCPU)
--Larry Mersek
RV-6, flying
RV10 Tail Kit for sale. Vertical and rudder are built. The horizontal
is drilled to fit, dimpled, countersunk, and has been clecoed together
before. It is ready for primer and priced at $2500. Marc at (209)
609-1947. fieldbaren(at)volcano.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Mounting Antennas On Bottom Fuselage Skin... |
Fellow Builders,
I'm getting ready to mount the COM (Commant bent whips) and Transponder (Commant
shark fin) antennas on the bottom of the RV-8. I plan to mount them to the
bottom fuselage skin right behind the aileron torque tubes. I think this is something
like .040" skin and its pretty rigid, but what are people's thoughts
on adding a skin doubler, perhaps a .032 piece something like 6"x8"? I'd rather
not, but on the other hand, I don't want to have the skin end up deformed over
time.
Thanks in advance.
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82882 N998RV
Laying Out Carpet in CAD...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jim-bean(at)att.net |
| Subject: | Re: Mounting Antennas On Bottom Fuselage Skin... |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Mounting Antennas On Bottom Fuselage Skin... |
I believe the skin is 0.032" not 0.040".
Recommend using a 0.032' doubler. 6"x8" is larger than needed however.
Consider something that extends and inch or two beyond the antenna mounting
screws. A simple install is a little bit of pro-seal between the doubler
and the skin, and then the antenna hardware through both the skin and the
doubler. Don't be concerned that you do not have perfect metal to metal
connection. The antenna needs an RF ground, not a DC ground. As long as it
is mounted on the skin you are ok, even if you have primer/paint on the
skin.
Put some spacing between the two antennas, perhaps a couple of feet.
Carl Froehlich
RV-8A (475 hrs)
RV-10 (fuselage)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Matt Dralle
Sent: Saturday, May 09, 2009 1:47 PM
Subject: RV8-List: Mounting Antennas On Bottom Fuselage Skin...
Fellow Builders,
I'm getting ready to mount the COM (Commant bent whips) and Transponder
(Commant shark fin) antennas on the bottom of the RV-8. I plan to mount
them to the bottom fuselage skin right behind the aileron torque tubes. I
think this is something like .040" skin and its pretty rigid, but what are
people's thoughts on adding a skin doubler, perhaps a .032 piece something
like 6"x8"? I'd rather not, but on the other hand, I don't want to have the
skin end up deformed over time.
Thanks in advance.
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82882 N998RV
Laying Out Carpet in CAD...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Button Labeling For Infinity Stick Grips... |
Dear Listers,
I've been pondering for a while how to "label" the various button functions of
the Infinity stick grips I have wired up in the front and back of the RV-8. I
spent some time today with the 'ol CAD program making a caricature drawing of
the Infinity stick grip and buttons and adding some labeling. My plan is to
silk screen the attached layout right to the instrument panel in the front, and
to a small metal piece for the back. The cockpit and instrument panel will
be black, so the diagram should pop nicely on that background.
Just thought I'd pass on my efforts.
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880
Laying Out Carpet Patterns In CAD...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Button Labeling For Infinity Stick Grips... |
Dear Listers,
I've been pondering for a while how to "label" the various button functions of
the Infinity stick grips I have wired up in the front and back of the RV-8. I
spent some time today with the 'ol CAD program making a caricature drawing of
the Infinity stick grip and buttons and adding some labeling. My plan is to
silk screen the attached layout right to the instrument panel in the front, and
to a small metal piece for the back. The cockpit and instrument panel will
be black, so the diagram should pop nicely on that background.
Just thought I'd pass on my efforts.
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880
Laying Out Carpet Patterns In CAD...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dale Ellis <rv8builder(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Mounting Antennas On Bottom Fuselage Skin... |
In my crude survey of other builders, I discovered that 2/3 or more of builders
do put a doubler plate on the inside of the bottom skin for at least the comm
antenna. As you suggested, about a 6 x 8 inch piece of .032 material. But I
suspect that a 6 x 6 piece would work, if that is what you happen to have laying
around.
I have seen that doubler riveted with both countersunk and universal head rivets.
Dale
-----Original Message-----
>From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
>Sent: May 9, 2009 1:46 PM
>To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com, rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV8-List: Mounting Antennas On Bottom Fuselage Skin...
>
>
>Fellow Builders,
>
>I'm getting ready to mount the COM (Commant bent whips) and Transponder (Commant
shark fin) antennas on the bottom of the RV-8. I plan to mount them to the
bottom fuselage skin right behind the aileron torque tubes. I think this is
something like .040" skin and its pretty rigid, but what are people's thoughts
on adding a skin doubler, perhaps a .032 piece something like 6"x8"? I'd rather
not, but on the other hand, I don't want to have the skin end up deformed
over time.
>
>Thanks in advance.
>
>Matt Dralle
>RV-8 #82882 N998RV
>Laying Out Carpet in CAD...
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vincent Himsl <vshimsl(at)live.com> |
| Subject: | Mounting Antennas On Bottom Fuselage Skin... |
Used same antennae=2C same location except transponder was near rear bellcr
ank. Both areas I used a doubler.
Vince H.
RV-8 N8432
Preparing for inspection.
_________________________________________________________________
Windows Live=99: Keep your life in sync.
http://windowslive.com/explore?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_BR_life_in_synch_052009
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "james d winkler" <madman266(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Mounting Antennas On Bottom Fuselage Skin... |
if you bend up 1/4 in on each side, the stiffener will be more stiff .. j
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Craig Gallenbach <craigtxtx(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Air Ramp Cracking |
After a mere 60 hours TT I have noticed cracks around rivets on the F867 ai
r ramp on my RV8A.- The cracks are at the outboard rivets that attach the
air ramp to the center F867D stiffener.- I suspect there is a lot of vib
ration from the engine exhaust pipes that end just about in that area.- I
have the standard Vetterman exhaust bought through Vans and after about 20
hours or so I added a set of 20 degree turndown exhaust extensions from Ve
tterman.--The extensions-seemed to help overall noise and vibration i
n the cockpit, but obviously there is still a significant amount of vibrati
on causing the ramp to crack.- It looks like I'll have to replace the ram
p, but that is not addressing the root cause of the problem.-
-
Has anyone else seen and solved this problem?- Additional stiffeners on t
he air ramp?- Longer exhaust extensions?- Any help would be appreciated
.
-
Thanks in advance.
-
Craig Gallenbach
Eastover, NC
RV8A N184CG 60 hrs.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | scott bilinski <rv8a2001(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Air Ramp Cracking |
I just sheered a piece of stainless and popped it in place. Oh I also bonded it
with Pro-seal to hopefulle stop any vibration. It runs the full length and width
of the exhaust ramp Its a simple fix that actually looks good with no paint.
Scott
--- On Mon, 5/11/09, Craig Gallenbach wrote:
> From: Craig Gallenbach <craigtxtx(at)yahoo.com>
> Subject: RV8-List: Air Ramp Cracking
> To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Monday, May 11, 2009, 4:33 PM
> After a mere 60 hours TT I have
> noticed cracks around rivets on the F867 air ramp on my
> RV8A. The cracks are at the outboard rivets that
> attach the air ramp to the center F867D stiffener. I
> suspect there is a lot of vibration from the engine exhaust
> pipes that end just about in that area. I have the
> standard Vetterman exhaust bought through Vans and after
> about 20 hours or so I added a set of 20 degree turndown
> exhaust extensions from Vetterman.The
> extensionsseemed to help overall noise and vibration
> in the cockpit, but obviously there is still a significant
> amount of vibration causing the ramp to crack. It
> looks like I'll have to replace the ramp, but that is
> not addressing the root cause of the problem.
>
> Has anyone else seen and solved this problem?
> Additional stiffeners on the air ramp? Longer exhaust
> extensions? Any help would be appreciated.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Craig Gallenbach
> Eastover, NC
> RV8A N184CG 60 hrs.
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Air Ramp Cracking |
| From: | Larry Bowen <larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
I had the piccolo type extensions on mine. Good sound and no cracks in
365 hours. Otherwise ramps were stock.
On 5/11/09, scott bilinski wrote:
>
>
> I just sheered a piece of stainless and popped it in place. Oh I also bonded
> it with Pro-seal to hopefulle stop any vibration. It runs the full length
> and width of the exhaust ramp Its a simple fix that actually looks good with
> no paint.
>
>
> Scott
>
>
> --- On Mon, 5/11/09, Craig Gallenbach wrote:
>
>> From: Craig Gallenbach <craigtxtx(at)yahoo.com>
>> Subject: RV8-List: Air Ramp Cracking
>> To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>> Date: Monday, May 11, 2009, 4:33 PM
>> After a mere 60 hours TT I have
>> noticed cracks around rivets on the F867 air ramp on my
>> RV8A. The cracks are at the outboard rivets that
>> attach the air ramp to the center F867D stiffener. I
>> suspect there is a lot of vibration from the engine exhaust
>> pipes that end just about in that area. I have the
>> standard Vetterman exhaust bought through Vans and after
>> about 20 hours or so I added a set of 20 degree turndown
>> exhaust extensions from Vetterman.The
>> extensionsseemed to help overall noise and vibration
>> in the cockpit, but obviously there is still a significant
>> amount of vibration causing the ramp to crack. It
>> looks like I'll have to replace the ramp, but that is
>> not addressing the root cause of the problem.
>>
>> Has anyone else seen and solved this problem?
>> Additional stiffeners on the air ramp? Longer exhaust
>> extensions? Any help would be appreciated.
>>
>> Thanks in advance.
>>
>> Craig Gallenbach
>> Eastover, NC
>> RV8A N184CG 60 hrs.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
--
--
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Craig Gallenbach <craigtxtx(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Air Ramp Cracking |
Larry,
Where did you get the piccolo extensions?
Craig
Sent from my iPhone
On May 11, 2009, at 8:10 PM, Larry Bowen wrote:
I had the piccolo type extensions on mine. Good sound and no cracks in
365 hours. Otherwise ramps were stock.
On 5/11/09, scott bilinski wrote:
I just sheered a piece of stainless and popped it in place. Oh I also bonded
it with Pro-seal to hopefulle stop any vibration. It runs the full length
and width of the exhaust ramp Its a simple fix that actually looks good with
no paint.
Scott
--- On Mon, 5/11/09, Craig Gallenbach wrote:
From: Craig Gallenbach <craigtxtx(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: RV8-List: Air Ramp Cracking
Date: Monday, May 11, 2009, 4:33 PM
After a mere 60 hours TT I have
noticed cracks around rivets on the F867 air ramp on my
RV8A. The cracks are at the outboard rivets that
attach the air ramp to the center F867D stiffener. I
suspect there is a lot of vibration from the engine exhaust
pipes that end just about in that area. I have the
standard Vetterman exhaust bought through Vans and after
about 20 hours or so I added a set of 20 degree turndown
exhaust extensions from Vetterman. The
extensions seemed to help overall noise and vibration
in the cockpit, but obviously there is still a significant
amount of vibration causing the ramp to crack. It
looks like I'll have to replace the ramp, but that is
not addressing the root cause of the problem.
Has anyone else seen and solved this problem?
Additional stiffeners on the air ramp? Longer exhaust
extensions? Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
Craig Gallenbach
Eastover, NC
RV8A N184CG 60 hrs.
--
--
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Air Ramp Cracking |
Strongly agree on using pro-seal around the edges of the ramp. It reduces
vibration and seals oil and such from inside of the double floor.
Carl Froehlich
RV-8A (475 hrs)
RV-10 (fuselage)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of scott bilinski
Sent: Monday, May 11, 2009 7:52 PM
Subject: Re: RV8-List: Air Ramp Cracking
I just sheered a piece of stainless and popped it in place. Oh I also bonded
it with Pro-seal to hopefulle stop any vibration. It runs the full length
and width of the exhaust ramp Its a simple fix that actually looks good with
no paint.
Scott
--- On Mon, 5/11/09, Craig Gallenbach wrote:
> From: Craig Gallenbach <craigtxtx(at)yahoo.com>
> Subject: RV8-List: Air Ramp Cracking
> To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Monday, May 11, 2009, 4:33 PM
> After a mere 60 hours TT I have
> noticed cracks around rivets on the F867 air ramp on my
> RV8A. The cracks are at the outboard rivets that
> attach the air ramp to the center F867D stiffener. I
> suspect there is a lot of vibration from the engine exhaust
> pipes that end just about in that area. I have the
> standard Vetterman exhaust bought through Vans and after
> about 20 hours or so I added a set of 20 degree turndown
> exhaust extensions from Vetterman.The
> extensionsseemed to help overall noise and vibration
> in the cockpit, but obviously there is still a significant
> amount of vibration causing the ramp to crack. It
> looks like I'll have to replace the ramp, but that is
> not addressing the root cause of the problem.
>
> Has anyone else seen and solved this problem?
> Additional stiffeners on the air ramp? Longer exhaust
> extensions? Any help would be appreciated.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Craig Gallenbach
> Eastover, NC
> RV8A N184CG 60 hrs.
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Air Ramp Cracking |
| From: | Larry Bowen <larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
They were the straight ones from Wicks:
http://wicksaircraft.com/catalog/product_search_results.php/search=cGljY29sbw=
I also had the edges prosealed, per the plans I think.
--
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
Sent from Welcome, NC, United States
On Mon, May 11, 2009 at 8:28 PM, Craig Gallenbach wrote:
>
>
> Larry,
>
> Where did you get the piccolo extensions?
>
> Craig
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On May 11, 2009, at 8:10 PM, Larry Bowen wrote:
>
>
> I had the piccolo type extensions on mine. Good sound and no cracks in
> 365 hours. Otherwise ramps were stock.
>
> On 5/11/09, scott bilinski wrote:
>
>
> I just sheered a piece of stainless and popped it in place. Oh I also
> bonded
> it with Pro-seal to hopefulle stop any vibration. It runs the full length
> and width of the exhaust ramp Its a simple fix that actually looks good
> with
> no paint.
>
>
> Scott
>
>
> --- On Mon, 5/11/09, Craig Gallenbach wrote:
>
> From: Craig Gallenbach <craigtxtx(at)yahoo.com>
> Subject: RV8-List: Air Ramp Cracking
> To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Monday, May 11, 2009, 4:33 PM
> After a mere 60 hours TT I have
> noticed cracks around rivets on the F867 air ramp on my
> RV8A. The cracks are at the outboard rivets that
> attach the air ramp to the center F867D stiffener. I
> suspect there is a lot of vibration from the engine exhaust
> pipes that end just about in that area. I have the
> standard Vetterman exhaust bought through Vans and after
> about 20 hours or so I added a set of 20 degree turndown
> exhaust extensions from Vetterman. The
> extensions seemed to help overall noise and vibration
> in the cockpit, but obviously there is still a significant
> amount of vibration causing the ramp to crack. It
> looks like I'll have to replace the ramp, but that is
> not addressing the root cause of the problem.
>
> Has anyone else seen and solved this problem?
> Additional stiffeners on the air ramp? Longer exhaust
> extensions? Any help would be appreciated.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Craig Gallenbach
> Eastover, NC
> RV8A N184CG 60 hrs.
>
>
> --
> --
> Larry Bowen
> Larry(at)BowenAero.com
> http://BowenAero.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Air Ramp Cracking |
ACS says "3db" noise reduction, but I wonder what HP reduction? Those look pretty
restrictive...?
Matt Dralle
At 05:37 PM 5/11/2009 Monday, you wrote:
>They were the straight ones from Wicks:
>
><http://wicksaircraft.com/catalog/product_search_results.php/search=cGljY29sbw==>http://wicksaircraft.com/catalog/product_search_results.php/search=cGljY29sbw=
>
>I also had the edges prosealed, per the plans I think.
>
>--
>Larry Bowen
>Larry(at)BowenAero.com
><http://BowenAero.com>http://BowenAero.com
>Sent from Welcome, NC, United States
>
>On Mon, May 11, 2009 at 8:28 PM, Craig Gallenbach <craigtxtx(at)yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>
>Larry,
>
>Where did you get the piccolo extensions?
>
>Craig
>
>Sent from my iPhone
>
>On May 11, 2009, at 8:10 PM, Larry Bowen <larry(at)bowenaero.com> wrote:
>
>
>I had the piccolo type extensions on mine. Good sound and no cracks in
>365 hours. Otherwise ramps were stock.
>
>On 5/11/09, scott bilinski <rv8a2001(at)yahoo.com> wrote:
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Air Ramp Cracking |
Duh, I meant "Wicks".
At 06:06 PM 5/11/2009 Monday, you wrote:
>
>ACS says "3db" noise reduction, but I wonder what HP reduction? Those look pretty
restrictive...?
>
>Matt Dralle
>
>
>At 05:37 PM 5/11/2009 Monday, you wrote:
>>They were the straight ones from Wicks:
>>
>><http://wicksaircraft.com/catalog/product_search_results.php/search=cGljY29sbw==>http://wicksaircraft.com/catalog/product_search_results.php/search=cGljY29sbw=
>>
>>I also had the edges prosealed, per the plans I think.
>>
>>--
>>Larry Bowen
>>Larry(at)BowenAero.com
>><http://BowenAero.com>http://BowenAero.com
>>Sent from Welcome, NC, United States
>>
>>On Mon, May 11, 2009 at 8:28 PM, Craig Gallenbach <craigtxtx(at)yahoo.com> wrote:
>>
>>
>>Larry,
>>
>>Where did you get the piccolo extensions?
>>
>>Craig
>>
>>Sent from my iPhone
>>
>>On May 11, 2009, at 8:10 PM, Larry Bowen <larry(at)bowenaero.com> wrote:
>>
>>
>>I had the piccolo type extensions on mine. Good sound and no cracks in
>>365 hours. Otherwise ramps were stock.
>>
>>On 5/11/09, scott bilinski <rv8a2001(at)yahoo.com> wrote:
>>
>
>
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Air Ramp Cracking |
| From: | Larry Bowen <larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
I gained 10 knots and fuel burn decreased 1.5 ghp. Just kidding. I put
them on early, and never got around to testing. I had typical RV-8 speed
numbers and had no problem keeping up with the others, so if there was a HP
loss it was negligible, IMO.
--
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
On Mon, May 11, 2009 at 9:06 PM, Matt Dralle wrote:
>
> ACS says "3db" noise reduction, but I wonder what HP reduction? Those look
> pretty restrictive...?
>
> Matt Dralle
>
>
> At 05:37 PM 5/11/2009 Monday, you wrote:
> >They were the straight ones from Wicks:
> >
> ><
> http://wicksaircraft.com/catalog/product_search_results.php/search=cGljY29sbw=
> >
> http://wicksaircraft.com/catalog/product_search_results.php/search=cGljY29sbw=
> >
> >I also had the edges prosealed, per the plans I think.
> >
> >--
> >Larry Bowen
> >Larry(at)BowenAero.com
> ><http://BowenAero.com>http://BowenAero.com
> >Sent from Welcome, NC, United States
> >
> >On Mon, May 11, 2009 at 8:28 PM, Craig Gallenbach < craigtxtx(at)yahoo.com>craigtxtx(at)yahoo.com> wrote:
> craigtxtx(at)yahoo.com>craigtxtx(at)yahoo.com>
> >
> >
> >Larry,
> >
> >Where did you get the piccolo extensions?
> >
> >Craig
> >
> >Sent from my iPhone
> >
> >On May 11, 2009, at 8:10 PM, Larry Bowen <
> larry(at)bowenaero.com> wrote:
> >
> larry(at)bowenaero.com>
> >
> >I had the piccolo type extensions on mine. Good sound and no cracks in
> >365 hours. Otherwise ramps were stock.
> >
> >On 5/11/09, scott bilinski <rv8a2001(at)yahoo.com>
> wrote:
> rv8a2001(at)yahoo.com>rv8a2001(at)yahoo.com>
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Craig Gallenbach <craigtxtx(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Air Ramp Cracking |
Thanks Scott. How long has that fix been working?
Craig
Sent from my iPhone
On May 11, 2009, at 7:52 PM, scott bilinski wrote:
I just sheered a piece of stainless and popped it in place. Oh I also bonded it
with Pro-seal to hopefulle stop any vibration. It runs the full length and width
of the exhaust ramp Its a simple fix that actually looks good with no paint.
Scott
--- On Mon, 5/11/09, Craig Gallenbach wrote:
From: Craig Gallenbach <craigtxtx(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: RV8-List: Air Ramp Cracking
Date: Monday, May 11, 2009, 4:33 PM
After a mere 60 hours TT I have
noticed cracks around rivets on the F867 air ramp on my
RV8A. The cracks are at the outboard rivets that
attach the air ramp to the center F867D stiffener. I
suspect there is a lot of vibration from the engine exhaust
pipes that end just about in that area. I have the
standard Vetterman exhaust bought through Vans and after
about 20 hours or so I added a set of 20 degree turndown
exhaust extensions from Vetterman. The
extensions seemed to help overall noise and vibration
in the cockpit, but obviously there is still a significant
amount of vibration causing the ramp to crack. It
looks like I'll have to replace the ramp, but that is
not addressing the root cause of the problem.
Has anyone else seen and solved this problem?
Additional stiffeners on the air ramp? Longer exhaust
extensions? Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
Craig Gallenbach
Eastover, NC
RV8A N184CG 60 hrs.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | scott bilinski <rv8a2001(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Air Ramp Cracking |
>From day one I heard about this problem and "fixed" it before first flight. So
that would be almost 700hrs now.
Scott
RV-8a
--- On Tue, 5/12/09, Craig Gallenbach wrote:
> From: Craig Gallenbach <craigtxtx(at)yahoo.com>
> Subject: Re: RV8-List: Air Ramp Cracking
> To: "rv8-list(at)matronics.com"
> Date: Tuesday, May 12, 2009, 2:50 AM
> Craig Gallenbach
>
>
> Thanks Scott. How long has that fix been working?
>
> Craig
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On May 11, 2009, at 7:52 PM, scott bilinski
> wrote:
>
>
>
> I just sheered a piece of stainless and popped it in place.
> Oh I also bonded it with Pro-seal to hopefulle stop any
> vibration. It runs the full length and width of the exhaust
> ramp Its a simple fix that actually looks good with no
> paint.
>
>
> Scott
>
>
> --- On Mon, 5/11/09, Craig Gallenbach
> wrote:
>
> From: Craig Gallenbach <craigtxtx(at)yahoo.com>
> Subject: RV8-List: Air Ramp Cracking
> To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Monday, May 11, 2009, 4:33 PM
> After a mere 60 hours TT I have
> noticed cracks around rivets on the F867 air ramp on my
> RV8A. The cracks are at the outboard rivets that
> attach the air ramp to the center F867D stiffener. I
> suspect there is a lot of vibration from the engine
> exhaust
> pipes that end just about in that area. I have the
> standard Vetterman exhaust bought through Vans and after
> about 20 hours or so I added a set of 20 degree turndown
> exhaust extensions from Vetterman. The
> extensions seemed to help overall noise and vibration
> in the cockpit, but obviously there is still a significant
> amount of vibration causing the ramp to crack. It
> looks like I'll have to replace the ramp, but that is
> not addressing the root cause of the problem.
>
> Has anyone else seen and solved this problem?
> Additional stiffeners on the air ramp? Longer
> exhaust
> extensions? Any help would be appreciated.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Craig Gallenbach
> Eastover, NC
> RV8A N184CG 60 hrs.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Forum -
> FAQ,
> - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -
> List Contribution Web Site -
> -Matt
> Dralle, List Admin.
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV-8 in Minneapolis MN |
| From: | "yak-52(at)comcast.net" <yak-52(at)comcast.net> |
Have a kit with 200HP engine, CS prop and radios, panel lots of spares from another
aircraft. $37500
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=243710#243710
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Breece Nesbitt <breece28117(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Air Ramp Cracking |
This is the first time I've heard of this problem.-Where can I find more
info?--I have-just installed a-200hp Lycoming, Vetterman crossover
exhaust system and CS prop on my nearly-finished RV-8.- -=0A=0ABreece N
esbitt=0AMooresville, NC=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A________________________________=0AF
rom: scott bilinski =0ATo: rv8-list(at)matronics.com=0ASen
t: Tuesday, May 12, 2009 8:54:06 AM=0ASubject: Re: RV8-List: Air Ramp Crack
>=0A=0A=0A>From day one I heard about this problem and "fixed" it before fi
rst flight. So that would be almost 700hrs now.=0A=0AScott =0ARV-8a=0A=0A
=0A--- On Tue, 5/12/09, Craig Gallenbach wrote:=0A=0A
> From: Craig Gallenbach <craigtxtx(at)yahoo.com>=0A> Subject: Re: RV8-List: A
ir Ramp Cracking=0A> To: "rv8-list(at)matronics.com"
=0A> Date: Tuesday, May 12, 2009, 2:50 AM=0A> --> RV8-List message posted b
y:=0A> Craig Gallenbach =0A> > =0A> Thanks Scott. How
long has that fix been working?=0A> =0A> Craig=0A> =0A> Sent from my iPhone
=0A> =0A> On May 11, 2009, at 7:52 PM, scott bilinski
01(at)yahoo.com>=0A> =0A> =0A> I just sheered a piece of stainless and popped
it in place.=0A> Oh I also bonded it with Pro-seal to hopefulle stop any=0A
> vibration. It runs the full length and width of the exhaust=0A> ramp Its
a simple fix that actually looks good with no=0A> paint.=0A> =0A> =0A> Scot
t =0A> =0A> =0A> --- On Mon, 5/11/09, Craig Gallenbach To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com=0A> Date: M
onday, May 11, 2009, 4:33 PM=0A> After a mere 60 hours TT I have=0A> notice
d cracks around rivets on the F867 air ramp on my=0A> RV8A.- The cracks a
re at the outboard rivets that=0A> attach the air ramp to the center F867D
stiffener.- I=0A> suspect there is a lot of vibration from the engine=0A>
exhaust=0A> pipes that end just about in that area.- I have the=0A> stan
dard Vetterman exhaust bought through Vans and after=0A> about 20 hours or
so I added a set of 20 degree turndown=0A> exhaust extensions from Vetterma
n.- The=0A> extensions seemed to help overall noise and vibration=0A> in
the cockpit, but obviously there is still a significant=0A> amount of vibra
tion causing the ramp to crack.- It=0A> looks like I'll have to replace t
he ramp, but that is=0A> not addressing the root cause of the problem.-
=0A>- =0A> Has anyone else seen and solved this problem? =0A> Additional
stiffeners on the air ramp?- Longer=0A> exhaust=0A> extensions?- Any he
lp would be appreciated.=0A>- =0A> Thanks in advance.=0A>- =0A> Craig G
allenbach=0A> Eastover, NC=0A> RV8A N184CG 60 hrs.=0A> =0A> =0A> =0A> =0A>
=0A> =0A> =0A> =0A> =0A> =0A> =0A> =0A> =0A> =0A> Forum -=0A> FAQ,=0A> -
--- MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -=0A> List Contribution Web Site -=0A> - -
- - - - - -Matt=0A> Dralle, List Admin.=0A> =0A> =0A> =0A> =0A
===================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | scott bilinski <rv8a2001(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Air Ramp Cracking |
Probably not on this E-mail list but if you do a search on the larger lists I am
sure it will come up.
Adding a doubler, in my case stainless, is so easy to do especially when building
why not just do it. At least that's my thinking.
Scott
RV-8a
--- On Tue, 5/12/09, Breece Nesbitt wrote:
> From: Breece Nesbitt <breece28117(at)yahoo.com>
> Subject: Re: RV8-List: Air Ramp Cracking
> To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Tuesday, May 12, 2009, 2:46 PM
> This is the first time
> I've heard of this problem.Where can I find more
> info?I havejust installed a200hp
> Lycoming, Vetterman crossover exhaust system and CS prop on
> my nearly-finished RV-8.
>
> Breece Nesbitt
> Mooresville, NC
>
>
>
>
>
> From: scott
> bilinski
> To:
> rv8-list(at)matronics.com
> Sent:
> Tuesday, May 12, 2009 8:54:06 AM
> Subject: Re:
> RV8-List: Air Ramp Cracking
>
>
>
> >From day one I heard about this problem and
> "fixed" it before first flight. So that would be
> almost 700hrs now.
>
> Scott
> RV-8a
>
>
> --- On Tue, 5/12/09, Craig Gallenbach
> wrote:
>
> > From: Craig Gallenbach <craigtxtx(at)yahoo.com>
> > Subject: Re: RV8-List: Air Ramp Cracking
> > To: "rv8-list(at)matronics.com"
>
> > Date: Tuesday, May 12, 2009, 2:50 AM
> > Craig Gallenbach
> > >
> > Thanks Scott. How long has that fix been working?
> >
> > Craig
> >
> > Sent from my iPhone
> >
> > On May 11, 2009, at 7:52 PM, scott bilinski
> > wrote:
> >
>
> >
> >
> > I just sheered a piece of stainless and popped it in
> place.
> > Oh I also bonded it with Pro-seal to hopefulle stop
> any
> > vibration. It runs the full length and width of the
> exhaust
> > ramp Its a simple fix that actually looks good with
> no
> > paint.
> >
> >
> > Scott
> >
> >
> > --- On Mon, 5/11/09, Craig Gallenbach
> > wrote:
> >
> > From: Craig Gallenbach <craigtxtx(at)yahoo.com>
> > Subject: RV8-List: Air Ramp Cracking
> > To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
> > Date: Monday, May 11, 2009, 4:33
> PM
> > After a mere 60 hours TT I have
> > noticed cracks around rivets on the F867 air ramp on
> my
> > RV8A. The cracks are at the outboard rivets
> that
> > attach the air ramp to the center F867D
> stiffener. I
> > suspect there is a lot of vibration from the engine
> > exhaust
> > pipes that end just about in that area. I have
> the
> > standard Vetterman exhaust bought through Vans and
> after
> > about 20 hours or so I added a set of 20 degree
> turndown
> > exhaust extensions from Vetterman. The
> > extensions seemed to help overall noise and vibration
> > in the cockpit, but obviously there is still a
> significant
> > amount of vibration causing the ramp to crack.
> It
> > looks like I'll have to replace the ramp, but that
> is
> > not addressing the root cause of the problem.
> >
> > Has anyone else seen and solved this problem?
> > Additional
> stiffeners on the air ramp? Longer
> > exhaust
> > extensions? Any help would be appreciated.
> >
> > Thanks in advance.
> >
> > Craig Gallenbach
> > Eastover, NC
> > RV8A N184CG 60 hrs.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Forum -
> > FAQ,
> > - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -
> > List Contribution Web Site -
> >
> -Matt
> > Dralle, List Admin.
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Breece Nesbitt <breece28117(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Air Ramp Cracking |
Thanks, Scott.- I'll do some research. =0A=0ABreece=0ARV-8=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A
________________________________=0AFrom: scott bilinski <rv8a2001(at)yahoo.com
>=0ATo: rv8-list(at)matronics.com=0ASent: Tuesday, May 12, 2009 7:43:13 PM=0AS
ubject: Re: RV8-List: Air Ramp Cracking=0A=0A--> RV8-List message posted by
: scott bilinski =0A=0A=0AProbably not on this E-mail l
ist but if you do a search on the larger lists I am sure it will come up.
=0A=0AAdding a doubler, in my case stainless, is so easy to do especially w
hen building why not just do it. At least that's my thinking.=0A=0AScott=0A
RV-8a=0A=0A=0A=0A--- On Tue, 5/12/09, Breece Nesbitt To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com=0A> Date: Tue
sday, May 12, 2009, 2:46 PM=0A> This is the first time=0A> I've heard of th
is problem.-Where can I find more=0A> info?--I have-just installed
a-200hp=0A> Lycoming, Vetterman crossover exhaust system and CS prop on
=0A> my nearly-finished RV-8.- -=0A> -=0A> Breece Nesbitt=0A> Mooresv
ille, NC=0A> =0A> =0A> =0A> =0A> =0A> From: scott=0A> bilinski <rv8a2001@ya
hoo.com>=0A> To:=0A> rv8-list(at)matronics.com=0A> Sent:=0A> Tuesday, May 12,
2009 8:54:06 AM=0A> Subject: Re:=0A> RV8-List: Air Ramp Cracking=0A> =0A> -
=0A> >From day one I heard about this problem and=0A> "fixed" it before fi
rst flight. So that would be=0A> almost 700hrs now.=0A> =0A> Scott =0A> RV-
8a=0A> =0A> =0A> --- On Tue, 5/12/09, Craig Gallenbach > To: "rv8-list(at)matronics.com"
=0A> =0A> > Date: Tuesday, May 12, 2009, 2:50 AM=0A
.com>=0A> > > =0A> > Thanks Scott. How long has that fix been working?=0A>
> =0A> > Craig=0A> > =0A> > Sent from my iPhone=0A> > =0A> > On May 11, 200
9, at 7:52 PM, scott bilinski =0A> > wrote:=0A> > =0A>
=0A> > =0A> > =0A> > I just sheered a piece of stainless and popped it in
=0A> place.=0A> > Oh I also bonded it with Pro-seal to hopefulle stop=0A> a
ny=0A> > vibration. It runs the full length and width of the=0A> exhaust=0A
> > ramp Its a simple fix that actually looks good with=0A> no=0A> > paint.
=0A> > =0A> > =0A> > Scott =0A> > =0A> > =0A> > --- On Mon, 5/11/09, Craig
Gallenbach <craigtxtx(at)yahoo.com>=0A> > wrote:=0A> > =0A> > From: Craig Gall
enbach =0A> > Subject: RV8-List: Air Ramp Cracking=0A>
> To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com=0A> > Date: Monday, May 11, 2009, 4:33=0A>-
PM=0A> > After a mere 60 hours TT I have=0A> > noticed cracks around rivet
s on the F867 air ramp on=0A> my=0A> > RV8A.- The cracks are at the outbo
ard rivets=0A> that=0A> > attach the air ramp to the center F867D=0A> stiff
ener.- I=0A> > suspect there is a lot of vibration from the engine=0A> >
exhaust=0A> > pipes that end just about in that area.- I have=0A> the=0A>
> standard Vetterman exhaust bought through Vans and=0A> after=0A> > about
20 hours or so I added a set of 20 degree=0A> turndown=0A> > exhaust exten
sions from Vetterman.- The=0A> > extensions seemed to help overall noise
and vibration=0A> > in the cockpit, but obviously there is still a=0A> sign
ificant=0A> > amount of vibration causing the ramp to crack.-=0A> It=0A>
> looks like I'll have to replace the ramp, but that=0A> is=0A> > not addre
ssing the root cause of the problem.- =0A> >- =0A> > Has anyone else se
en and solved this problem? =0A> > Additional=0A>- stiffeners on the air
ramp?- Longer=0A> > exhaust=0A> > extensions?- Any help would be apprec
iated.=0A> >- =0A> > Thanks in advance.=0A> >- =0A> > Craig Gallenbach
=0A> > Eastover, NC=0A> > RV8A N184CG 60 hrs.=0A> > =0A> > =0A> > =0A> >
=0A> > =0A> > =0A> > =0A> > =0A> > =0A> > =0A> > =0A> > =0A> > =0A> > =0A>
> Forum -=0A> > FAQ,=0A> > ---- MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -=0A> > List Con
tribution Web Site -=0A> > - - - - - - -=0A> -Matt=0A> > Dral
le, List Admin.=0A> > =0A> >=0A>- =0A> =0A> =0A> =0A> =0A> =0A> =0A> =0A
===================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Craig Gallenbach <craigtxtx(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Air Ramp Cracking |
Scott,
Did you modify your exhaust outlet in any way as well? Thanks,
Craig
Sent from my iPhone
On May 12, 2009, at 7:43 PM, scott bilinski wrote:
Probably not on this E-mail list but if you do a search on the larger lists I am
sure it will come up.
Adding a doubler, in my case stainless, is so easy to do especially when building
why not just do it. At least that's my thinking.
Scott
RV-8a
--- On Tue, 5/12/09, Breece Nesbitt wrote:
From: Breece Nesbitt <breece28117(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RV8-List: Air Ramp Cracking
Date: Tuesday, May 12, 2009, 2:46 PM
This is the first time
I've heard of this problem. Where can I find more
info? I have just installed a 200hp
Lycoming, Vetterman crossover exhaust system and CS prop on
my nearly-finished RV-8.
Breece Nesbitt
Mooresville, NC
From: scott
bilinski
To:
rv8-list(at)matronics.com
Sent:
Tuesday, May 12, 2009 8:54:06 AM
Subject: Re:
RV8-List: Air Ramp Cracking
>From day one I heard about this problem and
"fixed" it before first flight. So that would be
almost 700hrs now.
Scott
RV-8a
--- On Tue, 5/12/09, Craig Gallenbach
wrote:
From: Craig Gallenbach <craigtxtx(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RV8-List: Air Ramp Cracking
Date: Tuesday, May 12, 2009, 2:50 AM
Craig Gallenbach
Thanks Scott. How long has that fix been working?
Craig
Sent from my iPhone
On May 11, 2009, at 7:52 PM, scott bilinski
wrote:
I just sheered a piece of stainless and popped it in
place.
Oh I also bonded it with Pro-seal to hopefulle stop
any
vibration. It runs the full length and width of the
exhaust
ramp Its a simple fix that actually looks good with
no
paint.
Scott
--- On Mon, 5/11/09, Craig Gallenbach
wrote:
From: Craig Gallenbach <craigtxtx(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: RV8-List: Air Ramp Cracking
Date: Monday, May 11, 2009, 4:33
PM
After a mere 60 hours TT I have
noticed cracks around rivets on the F867 air ramp on
my
RV8A. The cracks are at the outboard rivets
that
attach the air ramp to the center F867D
stiffener. I
suspect there is a lot of vibration from the engine
exhaust
pipes that end just about in that area. I have
the
standard Vetterman exhaust bought through Vans and
after
about 20 hours or so I added a set of 20 degree
turndown
exhaust extensions from Vetterman. The
extensions seemed to help overall noise and vibration
in the cockpit, but obviously there is still a
significant
amount of vibration causing the ramp to crack.
It
looks like I'll have to replace the ramp, but that
is
not addressing the root cause of the problem.
Has anyone else seen and solved this problem?
Additional
stiffeners on the air ramp? Longer
exhaust
extensions? Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
Craig Gallenbach
Eastover, NC
RV8A N184CG 60 hrs.
Forum -
FAQ,
- MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -
List Contribution Web Site -
-Matt
Dralle, List Admin.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | scott bilinski <rv8a2001(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Air Ramp Cracking |
No exhaust modifications, just a piece of stainless over the existing aluminum
with Pro-seal, its that simple.
Scott Bilinski
RV-8a
--- On Tue, 5/12/09, Craig Gallenbach wrote:
> From: Craig Gallenbach <craigtxtx(at)yahoo.com>
> Subject: Re: RV8-List: Air Ramp Cracking
> To: "rv8-list(at)matronics.com"
> Date: Tuesday, May 12, 2009, 8:09 PM
> Craig Gallenbach
>
>
> Scott,
>
> Did you modify your exhaust outlet in any way as
> well? Thanks,
>
> Craig
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On May 12, 2009, at 7:43 PM, scott bilinski
> wrote:
>
>
>
> Probably not on this E-mail list but if you do a search on
> the larger lists I am sure it will come up.
>
> Adding a doubler, in my case stainless, is so easy to do
> especially when building why not just do it. At least that's
> my thinking.
>
> Scott
> RV-8a
>
>
>
> --- On Tue, 5/12/09, Breece Nesbitt
> wrote:
>
> From: Breece Nesbitt <breece28117(at)yahoo.com>
> Subject: Re: RV8-List: Air Ramp Cracking
> To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Tuesday, May 12, 2009, 2:46 PM
> This is the first time
> I've heard of this problem. Where can I find more
> info? I have just installed a 200hp
> Lycoming, Vetterman crossover exhaust system and CS prop
> on
> my nearly-finished RV-8.
>
> Breece Nesbitt
> Mooresville, NC
>
>
>
>
>
> From: scott
> bilinski
> To:
> rv8-list(at)matronics.com
> Sent:
> Tuesday, May 12, 2009 8:54:06 AM
> Subject: Re:
> RV8-List: Air Ramp Cracking
>
>
>
> >From day one I heard about this problem and
> "fixed" it before first flight. So that would be
> almost 700hrs now.
>
> Scott
> RV-8a
>
>
> --- On Tue, 5/12/09, Craig Gallenbach
> wrote:
>
> From: Craig Gallenbach <craigtxtx(at)yahoo.com>
> Subject: Re: RV8-List: Air Ramp Cracking
> To: "rv8-list(at)matronics.com"
>
> Date: Tuesday, May 12, 2009, 2:50 AM
> Craig Gallenbach
>
> Thanks Scott. How long has that fix been working?
>
> Craig
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On May 11, 2009, at 7:52 PM, scott bilinski
> wrote:
>
>
>
>
> I just sheered a piece of stainless and popped it in
> place.
> Oh I also bonded it with Pro-seal to hopefulle stop
> any
> vibration. It runs the full length and width of the
> exhaust
> ramp Its a simple fix that actually looks good with
> no
> paint.
>
>
> Scott
>
>
> --- On Mon, 5/11/09, Craig Gallenbach
> wrote:
>
> From: Craig Gallenbach <craigtxtx(at)yahoo.com>
> Subject: RV8-List: Air Ramp Cracking
> To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Monday, May 11, 2009, 4:33
> PM
> After a mere 60 hours TT I have
> noticed cracks around rivets on the F867 air ramp on
> my
> RV8A. The cracks are at the outboard rivets
> that
> attach the air ramp to the center F867D
> stiffener. I
> suspect there is a lot of vibration from the engine
> exhaust
> pipes that end just about in that area. I have
> the
> standard Vetterman exhaust bought through Vans and
> after
> about 20 hours or so I added a set of 20 degree
> turndown
> exhaust extensions from Vetterman. The
> extensions seemed to help overall noise and vibration
> in the cockpit, but obviously there is still a
> significant
> amount of vibration causing the ramp to crack.
> It
> looks like I'll have to replace the ramp, but that
> is
> not addressing the root cause of the problem.
>
> Has anyone else seen and solved this problem?
> Additional
> stiffeners on the air ramp? Longer
> exhaust
> extensions? Any help would be appreciated.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Craig Gallenbach
> Eastover, NC
> RV8A N184CG 60 hrs.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Forum -
> FAQ,
> - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -
> List Contribution Web Site -
>
> -Matt
> Dralle, List Admin.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Forum -
> FAQ,
> - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -
> List Contribution Web Site -
> -Matt
> Dralle, List Admin.
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Breece added you as a friend on MyLife! |
| From: | Breece Nesbitt <breece28117(at)yahoo.com> |
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | breece28117(at)yahoo.com |
| Subject: | Spam Email from MYLIFE |
If you recently received an spam email or text message from "MyLife" statin
g that I had added you as a friend, please delete.- Do not respond to the
message.- This is an address-gathering spam operation that sent the mess
age to everyone in my email-address file.-
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Carpeting The Cabin Side of Firewall? |
What's the common notion on carpeting the cabin side of the firewall? I often
see aluminium foil backed insulation on the backside of firewalls, but I'm not
sure I've seen carpet. Cars have it, but what about aircraft?
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
Still Laying Out Carpet In CAD...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List: Carpeting The Cabin Side of Firewall? |
I make carpet for a living (OK, I'm an engineer for the world's largest
carpet manufacturer)...
I don't think carpet is suitable for that application. There is the
potential for too much heat, too close. Carpet isn't designed for the
temperatures you would get on the cockpit side of a firewall where there is
a fire on the other side.
Besides, carpet is heavy. If you're looking for insulation against noise
and heat, you'll do better with a purpose designed product.
Just my $0.02.
Kyle Boatright
----- Original Message -----
From: "Matt Dralle" <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 16, 2009 11:44 PM
Subject: RV-List: Carpeting The Cabin Side of Firewall?
> --> RV-List message posted by: Matt Dralle
>
>
> What's the common notion on carpeting the cabin side of the firewall? I
> often see aluminium foil backed insulation on the backside of firewalls,
> but I'm not sure I've seen carpet. Cars have it, but what about aircraft?
>
> Matt Dralle
> RV-8 #82880 N998RV
> Still Laying Out Carpet In CAD...
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV8 QB kit for sale |
I am selling my kit it is an 8 I have 255 hours into it constructed up to the brake
lines,
Good workmanship and logs asking $24,000 possible trade located in Seattle area
Dan 425-754-0112
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV8 -WTB Garmin 327 Transponder |
| From: | japhillipsga(at)aol.com |
Anybody have a Garmin 327 Transponder for sale or trade. Last piece I need for
my RV-8a panel. Contact me PM or call my cell 478-731-9678. Thanks, Bill of Georgia
-----Original Message-----
From: RV8-List Digest Server <rv8-list(at)matronics.com>
Sent: Fri, 22 May 2009 2:58 am
Subject: RV8-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 05/21/09
*
=================================================
Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive
=================================================
Today's complete RV8-List Digest can also be found in either of the
two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest formatted
in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked Indexes
and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII version
of the RV8-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic text editor
such as Notepad or with a web browser.
HTML Version:
http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=html&Chapter 09-05-21&Archive=RV8
Text Version:
http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=txt&Chapter 09-05-21&Archive=RV8
===============================================
EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive
===============================================
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RV8-List Digest Archive
---
Total Messages Posted Thu 05/21/09: 0
----------------------------------------------------------
Today's Message Index:
----------------------
-Matt Dralle, List Admin.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV8 QB kit for sale |
RV8 Quick build kit for sale Fuselage, Wings and Empennage.
Tail is done and hanging on the fuselage. completed per the plans up to bra
kes and installing the landing gear legs.
alking- $24,000 located in the Seatle area,
Dan
425-754-0112
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Packing The Wheel Bearings... |
Dear Listers,
I'm just about to put the wheels on the axles. The manual indicates what kind
of grease to use, but doesn't really indicate whether you're suppose to use *more*
than is already gooped in the bearing when you open the Cleveland box. There
seems to be a fair amount of grease already there. What's the common notion
on this?
Thanks!
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
Gear Mounted (whew), Adding Wheels & Brakes...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Alternate RV-8 Gear Leg Alignment Proceedure |
Dear Listers,
I devised a different method for doing the initial gear leg alignment on the RV-8
this past weekend. When I flipped the fuselage back right side up and bolted
the axles on, I was very pleased to find that both the left and right gear
and axles are perfectly aligned without any shim. Best part was the procedure
is pretty easy and doesn't take much "tinkering" around to get right.
I bought two 8' long, 1.5" wide pieces of angle aluminium from the hardware store.
The kind *without* the radius at the center. I used the bolt pattern from
the wheel pant mount to drill two 1/4" holes in the center of each piece and
then bolted them to the gear legs. I then measured precisely between the gear
and came up with 65 11/16". I went back to Lowes and had them carefully cut
a piece of 3/8" particle board to the 65 11/16" measurement and left the 48"
side as is. Their gantry saw was off by about 1/16" in squareness but we flipped
the board over and sliced just enough off to make it exactly the desired width.
A measurement corner-to-corner showed that it was perfectly square.
I took this perfectly parallel piece of board and put into the channel formed by
the two pieces of aluminium angles between the gear legs. Its really easy at
that point to see if the gear legs are parallel or not and just as easy to adjust
them so they are. I added a couple of wood clamps and the whole thing was
very stable and rigid and allowed for accurate drilling of all the holes.
Once the fuselage was flipped back over, I used the same 8' long piece of angle
to check the toe-in/toe-out of both axles and found them to be perfectly aligned.
The angle really makes it easy to tell if they are in alignment.
Anyway, I thought I pass this process along for other builders. It seems a lot
easier and more accurate than using plumb bobs. I've attached a number of photos
of the setup.
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880
Gear Mounted (whew), Wheels & Brakes Next...
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "E Stone" <estone(at)mchsi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Packing The Wheel Bearings... |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Difani" <t6pilot(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Packing The Wheel Bearings... |
Matt:
I'd remove the bearings and check to be sure there is enough packed in them.
Not sure if Parker Hannifin has packed these as a presevation measure or
it's ok to use the factory grease for running on. I always use Aeroshell
#5. To be safe recommend that you clean the bearings and repack with the
recommended grease. It's not the time to install the wheels without enough
grease to assure adequate lubrication for flying.
Randy
----- Original Message -----
From: "Matt Dralle" <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Sent: Wednesday, May 27, 2009 3:51 PM
Subject: RV8-List: Packing The Wheel Bearings...
>
> Dear Listers,
>
> I'm just about to put the wheels on the axles. The manual indicates what
> kind of grease to use, but doesn't really indicate whether you're suppose
> to use *more* than is already gooped in the bearing when you open the
> Cleveland box. There seems to be a fair amount of grease already there.
> What's the common notion on this?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Matt Dralle
> RV-8 #82880 N998RV
> Gear Mounted (whew), Adding Wheels & Brakes...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List: Packing The Wheel Bearings... |
I repacked in order to remove the red grease. I used one of the bearing packing
tools. I ended up with a little more than was originally there. I made sure
there was a bit on the felt where it contacts the spacer.
YMMV
Ralph
RV6A N822AR 15hrs.....
-----Original Message-----
>From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
>Sent: May 27, 2009 3:51 PM
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com, rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Packing The Wheel Bearings...
>
>
>Dear Listers,
>
>I'm just about to put the wheels on the axles. The manual indicates what kind
of grease to use, but doesn't really indicate whether you're suppose to use *more*
than is already gooped in the bearing when you open the Cleveland box.
There seems to be a fair amount of grease already there. What's the common notion
on this?
>
>Thanks!
>
>Matt Dralle
>RV-8 #82880 N998RV
>Gear Mounted (whew), Adding Wheels & Brakes...
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Packing The Wheel Bearings... |
| From: | cbrxxdrv(at)aol.com |
I put mine on right out of the box. (after I cleaned things up)
All seemed fine at first condition inspection when I removed cleaned and repacked.
Sal
N898SC
-----Original Message-----
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Sent: Wed, 27 May 2009 3:51 pm
Subject: RV8-List: Packing The Wheel Bearings...
Dear Listers,
I'm just about to put the wheels on the axles. The manual indicates what kind
of grease to use, but doesn't really indicate whether you're suppose to use
*more* than is already gooped in the bearing when you open the Cleveland box.
There seems to be a fair amount of grease already there. What's the common
notion on this?
Thanks!
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
Gear Mounted (whew), Adding Wheels & Brakes...
[Image Removed]
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Packing The Wheel Bearings... |
| From: | Ed Gilroy <egilroy(at)gmail.com> |
Matt:
Having repacked, replaced bearings and races on my share of Cessnas, the
answer is "it depends". Were the bearings packed with a bearing packer, what
grease was used, and how long ago were they packed? If they came that way
from Van's or another supplier, and sat in storage, you have no way of
knowing, so I would wash it all out with solvent. Grease has a definite
shelf life, I replace in service AeroShell packings every year and chuck the
can after 24 months. Then repack them with a bearing packer ("Lisle" makes a
nice one) and apply a goodly swipe to the races as well. Don't go overboard,
this isn't one of those cases (like with duct tape) where a little is good,
a whole lot is better, it just runs out and all over everything, when put in
service. Keep the packer, you'll need it for your repacks at annual time.
Ed
On Wed, May 27, 2009 at 3:51 PM, Matt Dralle wrote:
>
> Dear Listers,
>
> I'm just about to put the wheels on the axles. The manual indicates what
> kind of grease to use, but doesn't really indicate whether you're suppose to
> use *more* than is already gooped in the bearing when you open the Cleveland
> box. There seems to be a fair amount of grease already there. What's the
> common notion on this?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Matt Dralle
> RV-8 #82880 N998RV
> Gear Mounted (whew), Adding Wheels & Brakes...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Mounting The Engine... |
Dear Listers,
I'm getting close to mounting the engine on the 'ol RV-8. I'd like to hold off
riveting the front top skin on until I'm sure all of the wiring and what not
works with the various engine sensors. Is it "safe" to mount the engine before
this skin is in place? Also, I have a QB and I noticed that none of the rivets
along the sides where the cowl hinges go are riveted save for a couple of
temporary pop rivets. Can the engine be mounted before these two areas are completely
riveted?
Thanks!
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
Finishing Up The Wheels & Brakes...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Mounting The Engine... |
Hum, hadn't though about actually starting the motor without the skin on. I was
just thinking about whether it would hold the static weight. I guess to test
all the wiring, the engine would really need to be started.
So I guess I'll rephrase my question to "Could the engine be hung AND run without
the top skin and sides riveted?" ...?
Matt
At 04:11 PM 5/28/2009 Thursday, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Stan Jones
>
>Yes Matt, I am looking at the same problem. I am building a slider,
>and the front section of that can't be built until the top skin is in
>place.
>I would like to start the motor to verify all of my wiring is OK.
>It's going to be a bit dicey not having those rivets in place and 200
>HP thrashing around in the front
>I would be interested to hear what others have done
>
>Stan Jones
>On 29/05/2009, at 8:46 AM, Matt Dralle wrote:
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: Matt Dralle
>>
>>
>>Dear Listers,
>>
>>I'm getting close to mounting the engine on the 'ol RV-8. I'd like
>>to hold off riveting the front top skin on until I'm sure all of
>>the wiring and what not works with the various engine sensors. Is
>>it "safe" to mount the engine before this skin is in place? Also,
>>I have a QB and I noticed that none of the rivets along the sides
>>where the cowl hinges go are riveted save for a couple of temporary
>>pop rivets. Can the engine be mounted before these two areas are
>>completely riveted?
>>
>>Thanks!
>>
>>Matt Dralle
>>RV-8 #82880 N998RV
>>Finishing Up The Wheels & Brakes...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Mounting The Engine... |
Not sure how to respond other than why would you want to do this?
- There should be no wiring issue that cannot be resolved after the plane is
built. If your design does not support this objective, you may want to make
some changes. An easy thing to do is to make the panel fully removable
using Molex plugs. I have never had to do the upside down head under the
panel thing on my 8A.
- All engine temperature senders can be tested with a hot air gun. You can
draw a vacuum for MP. You can run the electric fuel pump to check flow rate
and such.
- Your first engine start essentially starts the timer to your first flight.
You could of course go back and re-pickle the engine for storage but there
is little to gain other scratching the itch to hear the engine (and believe
me this is a very strong itch).
- I would not recommend even fitting the cowl before the top skin is riveted
on. Remember however to take a piece of light aluminum angle across the
baggage door before you cut out the baggage door skin - cleckoing the angle
across what will be the open door area. This prevents the firewall from
flexing when you fit the cowl.
- I suspect you will find riveting of the cowl hinges to be harder after
mounting the engine.
Carl Froehlich
RV-8A (475 hrs)
RV-10 (fuselage)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Matt Dralle
Sent: Thursday, May 28, 2009 7:22 PM
Subject: RV8-List: Re: Mounting The Engine...
Hum, hadn't though about actually starting the motor without the skin on. I
was just thinking about whether it would hold the static weight. I guess to
test all the wiring, the engine would really need to be started.
So I guess I'll rephrase my question to "Could the engine be hung AND run
without the top skin and sides riveted?" ...?
Matt
At 04:11 PM 5/28/2009 Thursday, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Stan Jones
>
>Yes Matt, I am looking at the same problem. I am building a slider,
>and the front section of that can't be built until the top skin is in
>place.
>I would like to start the motor to verify all of my wiring is OK.
>It's going to be a bit dicey not having those rivets in place and 200
>HP thrashing around in the front
>I would be interested to hear what others have done
>
>Stan Jones
>On 29/05/2009, at 8:46 AM, Matt Dralle wrote:
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: Matt Dralle
>>
>>
>>Dear Listers,
>>
>>I'm getting close to mounting the engine on the 'ol RV-8. I'd like
>>to hold off riveting the front top skin on until I'm sure all of
>>the wiring and what not works with the various engine sensors. Is
>>it "safe" to mount the engine before this skin is in place? Also,
>>I have a QB and I noticed that none of the rivets along the sides
>>where the cowl hinges go are riveted save for a couple of temporary
>>pop rivets. Can the engine be mounted before these two areas are
>>completely riveted?
>>
>>Thanks!
>>
>>Matt Dralle
>>RV-8 #82880 N998RV
>>Finishing Up The Wheels & Brakes...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Breece Nesbitt <breece28117(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Mounting The Engine... |
I'm building an RV-8, also, and just hung-the engine a couple of weeks ag
o (IO-360-A1B6).- I don't think it would be good to run the engine withou
t the top skin on.- You need to have that skin in place before you instal
l the cowling.- Van says that you should have all your baffles and cowlin
g in place before running the engine in order to provide adequate cooling t
he the cylinders.=0A=0AI've got the side and top hinges clecoed in place-
around the firewall.- I don't have the top skin on yet, because I still h
ave some work to do underneath.- I wanted to install the baffles next, bu
t realized that the top cowl needs to be in place first.- Then I found th
at the prop needs to be on before the cowl is put on.- I am planning to p
ut the prop on in the next couple of days.- The top skin has to be rivete
d in place before the cowl is installed, because the-clecos will interfer
e - also to get the top of the firewall in the right place to fit the cowli
ng.- So it looks like I'm gonna have to go back to the panel and other st
uff right behind the firewall and get all that finished before I can go bac
k to the engine side.-I hope that hanging the engine will not affect-th
e fit of-the top skin.--=0A=0AA question I have is: how long is it ok
ay to have the engine exposed before it is run?- Also, what should I do t
o the engine before it's ready to run?- I think it might be six months be
fore I crank it up.- It was packed at the factory for long-term storage.
- =0A=0ABreece=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A________________________________=0AFrom: Mat
t Dralle =0ATo: rv-list(at)matronics.com; rv8-list@matro
nics.com=0ASent: Thursday, May 28, 2009 7:21:33 PM=0ASubject: RV8-List: Re:
ralle(at)matronics.com>=0A=0AHum, hadn't though about actually starting the mo
tor without the skin on.- I was just thinking about whether it would hold
the static weight.- I guess to test all the wiring, the engine would rea
lly need to be started.- =0A=0ASo I guess I'll rephrase my question to "C
ould the engine be hung AND run without the top skin and sides riveted?"-
...?=0A=0AMatt=0A=0AAt 04:11 PM 5/28/2009- Thursday, you wrote:=0A>--> R
V-List message posted by: Stan Jones =0A>=0A>Yes Mat
t, I am looking at the same problem. I am building a slider,- =0A>and the
front section of that can't be built until the top skin is in- =0A>place
.=0A>I would like to start the motor to verify all of my wiring is OK.=0A>I
t's going to be a bit dicey not having those rivets in place and 200- =0A
>HP thrashing around in the front=0A>I would be interested to hear what oth
ers have done=0A>=0A>Stan Jones=0A>On 29/05/2009, at 8:46 AM, Matt Dralle w
rote:=0A>=0A>>--> RV-List message posted by: Matt Dralle <dralle@matronics.
com>=0A>>=0A>>=0A>>Dear Listers,=0A>>=0A>>I'm getting close to mounting the
engine on the 'ol RV-8.- I'd like- =0A>>to hold off riveting the front
top skin on until I'm sure all of- =0A>>the wiring and what not works wi
th the various engine sensors.- Is- =0A>>it "safe" to mount the engine
before this skin is in place?- Also,- =0A>>I have a QB and I noticed th
at none of the rivets along the sides- =0A>>where the cowl hinges go are
riveted save for a couple of temporary- =0A>>pop rivets.- Can the engin
e be mounted before these two areas are- =0A>>completely riveted?=0A>>=0A
>>Thanks!=0A>>=0A>>Matt Dralle=0A>>RV-8 #82880 N998RV=0A>>Finishing Up The
===================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Heath Cherneski" <heath.cherneski(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Mounting The Engine... |
It will be necessary to run the engine without the cowling on to check for
leaks and adjust mixture cut-off etc. you should limit ground runs as much
as possible. Run to check all systems and for leaks and what-not. seat
rings as soon as possible after taxi tests and ground runs. Good luck!
Heath Cherneski
heath.cherneski(at)gmail.com
hchernes(at)utsi.edu
heath.cherneski(at)us.army.mil
_____
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Breece Nesbitt
Sent: Thursday, May 28, 2009 7:20 PM
Subject: Re: RV8-List: Re: Mounting The Engine...
I'm building an RV-8, also, and just hung the engine a couple of weeks ago
(IO-360-A1B6). I don't think it would be good to run the engine without the
top skin on. You need to have that skin in place before you install the
cowling. Van says that you should have all your baffles and cowling in
place before running the engine in order to provide adequate cooling the the
cylinders.
I've got the side and top hinges clecoed in place around the firewall. I
don't have the top skin on yet, because I still have some work to do
underneath. I wanted to install the baffles next, but realized that the top
cowl needs to be in place first. Then I found that the prop needs to be on
before the cowl is put on. I am planning to put the prop on in the next
couple of days. The top skin has to be riveted in place before the cowl is
installed, because the clecos will interfere - also to get the top of the
firewall in the right place to fit the cowling. So it looks like I'm gonna
have to go back to the panel and other stuff right behind the firewall and
get all that finished before I can go back to the engine side. I hope that
hanging the engine will not affect the fit of the top skin.
A question I have is: how long is it okay to have the engine exposed before
it is run? Also, what should I do to the engine before it's ready to run?
I think it might be six months before I crank it up. It was packed at the
factory for long-term storage.
Breece
_____
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Sent: Thursday, May 28, 2009 7:21:33 PM
Subject: RV8-List: Re: Mounting The Engine...
Hum, hadn't though about actually starting the motor without the skin on. I
was just thinking about whether it would hold the static weight. I guess to
test all the wiring, the engine would really need to be started.
So I guess I'll rephrase my question to "Could the engine be hung AND run
without the top skin and sides riveted?" ...?
Matt
At 04:11 PM 5/28/2009 Thursday, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Stan Jones
>
>Yes Matt, I am looking at the same problem. I am building a slider,
>and the front section of that can't be built until the top skin is in
>place.
>I would like to start the motor to verify all of my wiring is OK.
>It's going to be a bit dicey not having those rivets in place and 200
>HP thrashing around in the front
>I would be interested to hear what others have done
>
>Stan Jones
>On 29/05/2009, at 8:46 AM, Matt Dralle wrote:
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: Matt Dralle
>>
>>
>>Dear Listers,
>>
>>I'm getting close to mounting the engine on the 'ol RV-8. I'd like
>>to hold off riveting the front top skin on until I'm sure all of
>>the wiring and what not works with the various engine sensors. Is
>>it "safe" to mount the engine before this skin is in place? Also,
>>I have a QB and I noticed that none of the rivets along the sides
>>where the cowl hinges go are riveted save for a couple of temporary
>>pop rivets. Can the engine be mounted before these two areas are
>>completely riveted?
>>
>>Thanks!
>>
>>Matt Dralle
>>RV-8 #82880 N998RV
>>Finishing Up The Wheehe Matronics List Features Navigator to
=======================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Valovich, Paul" <pvalovich(at)dcscorp.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Mounting The Engine... |
I'm building an -8A QB. I'm not ging to rivet the final top skin until the
baffles, cowl and final wiring tweaks are done. I've got the engine hung, p
rop on, cowl fitted and am currently battling the black magic of the baffle
s. I have Skybolt cams for the cowl so fabricated the mounting strips with
clecos in every hole of the firewall. Also used clecoes in every hole of th
e top skin.
I will not run the engine until the top skin is riveted. Works for me.
Booger
N192NM Reserved (again)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Must-Have Tool Tip... |
Dear Listers,
I don't know, maybe everyone but me already knew about this little gem of a tool,
but in case you missed it, I thought I share. If you don't have one of these,
run - don't walk - down to your local Home Depot or Ace Hardware store and
get one! All of those #8 screws in the RVs are a giant pain to work in and out
and some are just impossible to get to. I've been using this little guy on
the RV-8 project and can't image not having it now. The bendable shaft is really
strong and you can bend the heck out of it without impacting the torque.
Its about $13 at Home Depot which is a great deal considering how handy it is.
Here's a link to it on the Ace Hardware web page. I also attached a picture of
mine attached to my Dewalt electric screw driver.
http://www.acehardware.com/sm-eazypower-flex-a-bit-plus-eazypower-flex-a-bit-plus--pi-2467822.html
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
Fitting Wheel Pants - Ug, These Suck...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Emmanuel QUAESAET" <emmanuel.quaesaet(at)wanadoo.fr> |
| Subject: | empennage rear spar riveting |
Hello
I have just begun to build an RV8, and I am experiencing my first
problem.
So that's a beginner question:
I have tried several times to set one of the rivet assembling HS-702
with HS-404 and HS-405.
Now the hole is too big and I can not set the rivet.
Is there any solution? (the rivet is an AN-470 AD-4)
Thank you very much for your answers.
Emmanuel.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Slaughter" <william_slaughter(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | empennage rear spar riveting |
First, get a rivet squeezer to use instead of the rivet gun. Select an over
length rivet, and gently "pre-squeeze" it to make it swell slightly in
diameter until you achieve a decent fit in the hole. Trim to length as
required, then squeeze. Use the squeezer everywhere you can.
William Slaughter
RV-8 Fuselage almost finished.
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Emmanuel QUAESAET
Sent: Sunday, May 31, 2009 2:04 PM
Subject: RV8-List: empennage rear spar riveting
Hello
I have just begun to build an RV8, and I am experiencing my first problem.
So that's a beginner question:
I have tried several times to set one of the rivet assembling HS-702 with
HS-404 and HS-405.
Now the hole is too big and I can not set the rivet.
Is there any solution? (the rivet is an AN-470 AD-4)
Thank you very much for your answers.
Emmanuel.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | RV-8 F-830C-1 Floor Stiffeners - When To Rivet... |
RV-8 Builders:
In Section 8 of the builders manual (Page 8-50 for the 4/26/07 rev), Drawing 77,
it appears that they are having you hold off riveting the floor stiffeners along
the sides of the stick mount until *after* the floor skins are installed
rather than before they are installed. Is this because there's no way you can
get the floor skins into the right position once these stiffeners are riveted
on? I'm referring to F-830C-1 Floor Stiffeners.
That's kind of a bummer to have to try to rivet those after the skin is installed
for obvious reasons, but begs a bigger question; what about down the road when
you might have to remove the floor skins for some reason. Do you have to
drill those stiffener rivets out too? Ugg...
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
Second Try On The Wheel Pants...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vincent Himsl <vshimsl(at)live.com> |
| Subject: | RV-8 F-830C-1 Floor Stiffeners - When To Rivet... |
Adding those stiffeners was one of the last things I did on my RV-8 which i
s being inspected this Saturday. Those floors are a major pain getting in w
ithout the stiffeners let alone trying them with. Attaching the stiffeners
with the floor in place proved to be no big deal. I recall doing all mysel
f.
The main 'gotcha' when installing the floors is that many of us forget abou
t the flap fairings (comes with wing kit I believe). If you permanently ins
tall the floor before installing these fairings=2C you will have to use pop
rivets to attach them to the fuselage. No big deal really=2C unless you ar
e Oskosh Grand Champion bound=2C but still an annoying revelation.
Also=2C the floors shoudn't be installed until you resolved locations for e
lectrical items like aileron trim=2C comm and transponder antenae=2C wiring
runs=2C pitot static lines=2C etc.
I Pop riveted the floor as per plans. I also have nothing under them I need
access too. You could use plate nuts in lieu of pop rivets=2C but at @ 20
minutes install time per plate nut you would need to remove the floors seve
ral times to offset the speed advantage of the Pop rivets.
As a 'gotcha' prevention strategy=2C I would suggest all builders wrap thos
e stiffeners up with a labeled tie=2C and then tape them to the flap inters
ection fairings.
Regards=2C
Vince H.
RV8 N8432 'preparing for ascendency'
> Date: Thu=2C 4 Jun 2009 18:24:34 -0700
> To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com=3B rv-list(at)matronics.com
> From: dralle(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV8-List: RV-8 F-830C-1 Floor Stiffeners - When To Rivet...
>
>
>
> RV-8 Builders:
>
> In Section 8 of the builders manual (Page 8-50 for the 4/26/07 rev)=2C Dr
awing 77=2C it appears that they are having you hold off riveting the floor
stiffeners along the sides of the stick mount until *after* the floor skin
s are installed rather than before they are installed. Is this because ther
e's no way you can get the floor skins into the right position once these s
tiffeners are riveted on? I'm referring to F-830C-1 Floor Stiffeners.
>
> That's kind of a bummer to have to try to rivet those after the skin is i
nstalled for obvious reasons=2C but begs a bigger question=3B what about do
wn the road when you might have to remove the floor skins for some reason.
Do you have to drill those stiffener rivets out too? Ugg...
>
> Matt Dralle
> RV-8 #82880 N998RV
> Second Try On The Wheel Pants...
>
_________________________________________________________________
Lauren found her dream laptop. Find the PC that=92s right for you.
http://www.microsoft.com/windows/choosepc/?ocid=ftp_val_wl_290
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | RE: RV-8 F-830C-1 Floor Stiffeners - When To Rivet... |
At 10:24 PM 6/4/2009 Thursday, Vincent Himsl wrote:
>
>
>I Pop riveted the floor as per plans. I also have nothing under them I need access
too. You could use plate nuts in lieu of pop rivets, but at @ 20 minutes
install time per plate nut you would need to remove the floors several times to
offset the speed advantage of the Pop rivets.
>
>
>
>Vince H
Thanks everybody for the feedback. Installing those two-legged nut plates are definitely a pain in the rear. What's everyone's opinion on using #6 AN Rivnuts instead ( http://www.aircraftspruce.com/menus/ha/rivnuts.html )? Seems like the sheer and clamping strength of these has to be at least as good as those pop rivets? I used the #6 AN Rivnuts to attach the canopy and they are really nice, easy to install, and hold very well. I've attached a picture of them from my canopy frame for those that haven't see them before.
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
Second Try On The Wheel Pants...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Garey Wittich <gareywittich2000(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | ROD END BEARING JAM NUT - Torque |
For you Experts:
Installed the Rod End Bearings in the Rudder and Elevator today. -My loca
l A & P said to tighten the Jam Nut by "Hand Tightening" the Jam Nut as far
as it will go, then turn the nut between 1/4 and 1/2 turn more.
I "hand tightened" the Jam Nut (as the A & P said), but could not get it to
tighten more than an additional 1/8 turn, -Because the Jam Nut is recess
ed (in the Spar channel), it is impossible to get a wrench "squarely" on it
= any further tightening of the Nut starts to round the corners of the N
ut. -Is this 1/8 turn adequate for the Jam Nut tightness, if NOT how do y
ou turn the Nut (since it is recessed) ????
What Torque Value is required for the Jam Nut, assuming a Torque Wrench can
get into the recessed area - do not see how this can be done.
ANOTHER QUESTION -Have a "Click Type" torque wrench that starts at 20 in-lb
s. -From previous posts, the FIRST 1/6 and the LAST 1/6 of the Wrench's s
cale are inaccurate. -So how do you measure -"LOW VALUES" -for an AN3
Nut that requires 20 - 25 in/lbs plus Friction Torque of approx 5 in/lbs
= 25 to 30 on/lbs TOTAL torque ??
Appreciate your help,
Garey - Santa Monica, CA=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Heads Up On Wheel Pant Fiberglass Quality... |
Dear Listers,
I took delivery of an RV-8 QB finish kit around September 2008. Last weekend I
started tackling the installation of the wheel pants. The first thing I noticed
on inspection of the wheel pants was how horrible the quality was. The front
piece didn't fit the back piece and the flange shoulder on the back pieces
were not straight. Getting a even an "okay" fit was nearly impossible. The
other issue was the quality of the fiberglass itself. On the rear part of the
back piece, the epoxy resin was completely spider-cracked on both sides and
on both pants. It was nothing a few more coats of resin and a bunch of sanding
couldn't fix, but who wants to do that? Needless to say, I was fairly demoralized
by the fact that there was really no way I was going to be able to make
them really fit together "perfect".
But, I plowed ahead anyway and started trying to mount them to the Grove Airfoiled
gear. I had a lot of trouble getting them to fit correctly onto the landing
gear. The main issue seemed to be that they are too small at the bottom and
don't fit over the brake caliper without touching. I kept thinking that I must
just not have them in the correct position, so I kept hogging out a little
more glass here and there with the Dremel tool until basically the holes were
all too big (for the gear leg and for the wheel). I finally found a couple of
builder web sites where others have had the same issue with the brake caliper
interference and they added a 2.5" "blister" to pooch out over the area that
rubs. But by this time it was too late for that first set of pants.
But here's the interesting part. Since I had basically destroyed both of the original
pants trying to get them to fit, I decided to just order up a replacement
set, take a sedative, and start over again on the whole thing. The new wheel
pants arrived from Van's yesterday. The difference in quality between these
replacement units and the ones from last year is incredible! The seams are
nearly perfect on the replacements and only required a bit of sanding on the
front part to get a *perfect*, and I mean *perfect* fit between the front and
back halves. The consistency of the fiberglass layups is 100% better on the new
units, and that seam at the top was already so flat, I didn't even have to
sand it down. There are no spider cracks in the glass anywhere. I haven't actually
weighed them, but replacements feel like they might be somewhat lighter
as well.
Obviously Van's switched fiberglass vendors at some point in the last 10 months
and the switch was well worth it. I've attached a couple of photos of the Circa
September 2008 and Circa June 2009 sets I received. The only similarity is
in the overall shape.
FYI
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | ROD END BEARING JAM NUT - Torque |
| From: | "George, Neal E Capt USAF ACC 605 TES/DOA" <Neal.George(at)hurlburt.af.mil> |
Garey -
The correct way is to use a wrench ranged appropriately for the target
fasteners.
The alternative is to calibrate your elbow.
My tool box houses about seven different torque wrenches.
Neal George
RV-7 N8ZG
ANOTHER QUESTION -
Have a "Click Type" torque wrench that starts at 20 in-lbs. From previous
posts, the FIRST 1/6 and the LAST 1/6 of the Wrench's scale are inaccurate.
So how do you measure "LOW VALUES" for an AN3 Nut that requires 20 - 25
in/lbs plus Friction Torque of approx 5 in/lbs = 25 to 30 on/lbs TOTAL
torque ??
Appreciate your help,
Garey Santa Monica, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Speedy11(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: [RV-8] Digest Number 1216 |
Glenn,
I did the same as Gary Daubert - I used a Dremel type tool with diamond
cutters. You can spend $15 for each diamond cutter at Sears or buy 6 for $9
at Harbour Freight. They both worked equally well and cut the plexi with
no problem.
Stan Sutterfield
we just finished lining up and clecoing the canopy frame to the fuse and
getting ready to start trimming the canopy. we set it on the frame and it
appears to be about 2 inches too big at the molding flange so a lot of
trimming is going to be called for. we have been looking a t trimming options,
the die grinder as vans recommends even tho that would take a while due to
limited air capacity in the hanger, and a rotozip with a 90 degree attachment
and cutting disc.. anyboy got any suggestions?w
plus, somebody in rv land probably has a detailed description of the
process and maybe a video...as you know, vans instructions are a little lacking
in specifics.i.plus, somebody in rv land probably has a detailed
description of the process an
we gotta get with it...engine is on the way..it should be here by the end
of june..
appreciate all the help...thanks.appre
**************Stay connected and tighten your budget with a great mobile
device for under $50. Take a Peek!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Re: [RV-8] Digest Number 1216 |
It took me two tries on the RV-8 canopy because of a huge crack near the back.
On the second try, I used a Rotozip with a 90 deg cutoff wheel. Sweet ticket!
Way better than the pneumatic cutoff wheel I used on the first try. I documented
my process pretty well on my Kitlog web site. Links are provided below.
Have a look here:
Page 1:
http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=dralle&project=638&category=2973&log=75161&row=60
Page 2:
http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=dralle&project=638&category=2973&log=75277&row=59
Page 3:
http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=dralle&project=638&category=2973&log=75278&row=58
and here:
Page 1:
http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=dralle&project=638&category=2973&log=75162&row=55
Page 2:
http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=dralle&project=638&category=2973&log=75279&row=54
Page 3:
http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=dralle&project=638&category=2973&log=75280&row=53
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
Digging The Wings Out...
At 04:03 PM 6/6/2009 Saturday, Speedy11(at)aol.com wrote:
>Glenn,
>I did the same as Gary Daubert - I used a Dremel type tool with diamond cutters.
You can spend $15 for each diamond cutter at Sears or buy 6 for $9 at Harbour
Freight. They both worked equally well and cut the plexi with no problem.
>Stan Sutterfield
>
>we just finished lining up and clecoing the canopy frame to the fuse and getting
ready to start trimming the canopy. we set it on the frame and it appears to
be about 2 inches too big at the molding flange so a lot of trimming is going
to be called for. we have been looking a t trimming options, the die grinder
as vans recommends even tho that would take a while due to limited air capacity
in the hanger, and a rotozip with a 90 degree attachment and cutting disc..
anyboy got any suggestions??
>plus, somebody in rv land probably has a detailed description of the process and
maybe a video...as you know, vans instructions are a little lacking in specifics.i.e.
dont use a saw and be careful. it sure would help to be able to look
at it.
>we gotta get with it...engine is on the way..it should be here by the end of june..
>appreciate all the help...thanks..Bell
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Heads Up On Wheel Pant Fiberglass Quality... |
Just a quick follow up on the new wheel pants. I finished up the installation
yesterday and they came out fantastic! I'll still have to make a fiberglass blister
to fit around the brake caliper, though. I've attached a couple of pictures.
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
Unpacking The Wings...
At 10:42 AM 6/5/2009 Friday, you wrote:
>Dear Listers,
>
>I took delivery of an RV-8 QB finish kit around September 2008. Last weekend
I started tackling the installation of the wheel pants. The first thing I noticed
on inspection of the wheel pants was how horrible the quality was. The
front piece didn't fit the back piece and the flange shoulder on the back pieces
were not straight. Getting a even an "okay" fit was nearly impossible. The
other issue was the quality of the fiberglass itself. On the rear part of the
back piece, the epoxy resin was completely spider-cracked on both sides and
on both pants. It was nothing a few more coats of resin and a bunch of sanding
couldn't fix, but who wants to do that? Needless to say, I was fairly demoralized
by the fact that there was really no way I was going to be able to make
them really fit together "perfect".
>
>Matt Dralle
>RV-8 #82880 N998RV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gareywittich2000(at)yahoo.com |
| Subject: | Filler for unwanted Rivet Holes |
Greetings:
What material have you Builders used to fill in a couple of unwanted holes
in the Skin, where a rivet can NOT be placed to plug the hole ????
Is Super-Fil a possible solution ????
Thanks,---Garey Wittich- Santa Monica, CA
=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vincent Himsl <vshimsl(at)live.com> |
| Subject: | N8432 First Flight |
Van's RV8 Standard Kit
SN: 80296
Started: March 1997
Finished: June 2009
Sunday afternoon=2C my RV8 became an airplane. While I prepare for ascenden
cy into the 25% club. I will give you some details.
Inspection:
Was Saturday. The D.A.R from Spokane was very thorough=2C but after having
close to 8 people look over my RV beforehand=2C he found little amiss. This
is as it should be.
First Flight:
Was Sunday afternoon. Pilot was my good friend Mike Ensley who has decades
of tail dragger experience=2C and over 100 hours in his rv7. The builder in
me wanted to watch it fly more than the pilot in me wanted to be the first
to fly it. I am also the classic one who builds too much and flies too lit
tle.
Mike began with some fast taxi tests then stopped at the end of the taxiway
=2C did a runup and announced=2C "Experimental 8432 departing runway 23".
Never thought I would hear that.
Before I could worry about the wings falling off=2C he was 100 feet off the
runway and climbing very fast. Everyone congratulated me but my focus was
on that small airplane circling ever higher around the airport. I had a ha
nd held=2C but didn't use it. I didn't want to interrupt the moment for eit
her him nor I. Finally I mustered a "How's it going?". "Fine=2C I am havin
g a ball".
Mike landed=2C taxied over to applause from our small gathering of friends
and family. He slid back the canopy=2C turned to me with the RV Grin and sa
id=2C "You now have an airplane". Funny thing about that grin as I had it t
oo.
We returned home to pizza and beer=2C and to watch the jerky video my broth
er made. He said if I wanted a pro I should have paid real money. Brothers
are like that.
Post First Flight:
Mike said flight was smooth with no major issues. No perceived 'heavy wing'
=2C and no indication I royally botched the wing mounting. Mike said my Tac
h was off by a factor of two on my LightSpeed=2C and my elevator trim tab s
witch was wired backwards. I said what do you mean? Push the up switch=2C t
rim tab moves up=2C Press down=2C and the trim tab moves down...think about
it.
Mike said he didn't recall using the aileron trim=2C no need. He also menti
oned that he had trouble getting the tail to stay down on landing. I told h
im a single pilot and full fuel puts the CG pretty far forward on an RV8.
Now on to pilot/builder rust removal=2C tail dragger and RV transition trai
ning. I am also going to start learning how to actually use the instruments
I installed.
Thanks:
I have a long list of people who were pivotal in my RV8 not winding up unde
r a blue tarp in the back yard=2C and I have thanked them all. But this tha
nk you goes to you=2C my builder's group. I lost count of the times I would
get an answer from you often as fast as I wrote it. The countless encourag
ements=2C news both good and bad=2C the wackiness=2C the sadness when we lo
st someone=2C the primer wars=2C the untold 'not on my bird' declarations
=2C and of course the traditional announcement we all hope to make=2C first
flight.
I am still a builder as I have the wheel pants remaining=2C but my moment o
f ascendency is fast approaching and frankly=2C twelve years in the land of
'building experience' is a very long time.
Good luck to all of you and (again a list tradition) 'Just Keep pounding th
ose rivets!
Vince_Himsl
Idaho / Washington USA
RV8 N8432 - Done!
_________________________________________________________________
Insert movie times and more without leaving Hotmail=AE.
http://windowslive.com/Tutorial/Hotmail/QuickAdd?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_Tut
orial_QuickAdd_062009
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: N8432 First Flight |
| From: | Larry Bowen <larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
Good job, Vince. Congrats!
--
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
On Tue, Jun 9, 2009 at 3:09 AM, Vincent Himsl wrote:
> Van's RV8 Standard Kit
> SN: 80296
> Started: March 1997
> Finished: June 2009
>
> Sunday afternoon, my RV8 became an airplane. While I prepare for ascenden
cy
> into the 25% club. I will give you some details.
>
> *Inspection:*
> Was Saturday. The D.A.R from Spokane was very thorough, but after having
> close to 8 people look over my RV beforehand, he found little amiss. This
is
> as it should be.
>
> *First Flight:*
> Was Sunday afternoon. Pilot was my good friend Mike Ensley who has decade
s
> of tail dragger experience, and over 100 hours in his rv7. The builder in
me
> wanted to watch it fly more than the pilot in me wanted to be the first t
o
> fly it. I am also the classic one who builds too much and flies too littl
e.
>
> Mike began with some fast taxi tests then stopped at the end of the
> taxiway, did a runup and announced, "Experimental 8432 departing runway 2
3".
>
>
> Never thought I would hear that.
>
> Before I could worry about the wings falling off, he was 100 feet off the
> runway and climbing very fast. Everyone congratulated me but my focus wa
s
> on that small airplane circling ever higher around the airport. I had a h
and
> held, but didn't use it. I didn't want to interrupt the moment for either
> him nor I. Finally I mustered a "How's it going?". "Fine, I am having a
> ball".
>
> Mike landed, taxied over to applause from our small gathering of friends
> and family. He slid back the canopy, turned to me with the RV Grin and sa
id,
> "You now have an airplane". Funny thing about that grin as I had it too.
>
> We returned home to pizza and beer, and to watch the jerky video my broth
er
> made. He said if I wanted a pro I should have paid real money. Brothers a
re
> like that.
>
> *Post First Flight:*
> Mike said flight was smooth with no major issues. No perceived 'heavy
> wing', and no indication I royally botched the wing mounting. Mike said m
y
> Tach was off by a factor of two on my LightSpeed, and my elevator trim ta
b
> switch was wired backwards. I said what do you mean? Push the up switch,
> trim tab moves up, Press down, and the trim tab moves down...think about
it.
>
>
> Mike said he didn't recall using the aileron trim, no need. He also
> mentioned that he had trouble getting the tail to stay down on landing. I
> told him a single pilot and full fuel puts the CG pretty far forward on a
n
> RV8.
>
> Now on to pilot/builder rust removal, tail dragger and RV transition
> training. I am also going to start learning how to actually use the
> instruments I installed.
>
> *Thanks:*
> I have a long list of people who were pivotal in my RV8 not winding up
> under a blue tarp in the back yard, and I have thanked them all. But this
> thank you goes to you, my builder's group. I lost count of the times I wo
uld
> get an answer from you often as fast as I wrote it. The countless
> encouragements, news both good and bad, the wackiness, the sadness when w
e
> lost someone, the primer wars, the untold 'not on my bird' declarations,
and
> of course the traditional announcement we all hope to make, first flight.
>
> I am still a builder as I have the wheel pants remaining, but my moment o
f
> ascendency is fast approaching and frankly, twelve years in the land of
> 'building experience' is a very long time.
>
> Good luck to all of you and (again a list tradition) 'Just Keep pounding
> those rivets!
>
> Vince_Himsl
> Idaho / Washington USA
> *RV8 N8432 - Done!*
>
> ------------------------------
> Insert movie times and more without leaving Hotmail=AE. See how.<http://w
indowslive.com/Tutorial/Hotmail/QuickAdd?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_Tutorial_Qu
ickAdd_062009>
>
> *
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris Stone <rv8iator(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: N8432 First Flight |
Vince,
Well done!
C. Stone
Newberg, OR
Van's RV8 Standard Kit
SN: 80296
Started: March 1997
Finished: June 2009
Sunday afternoon, my RV8 became an airplane. While I prepare for ascendency into
the 25% club. I will give you some details.
Inspection:
Was Saturday. The D.A.R from Spokane was very thorough, but after having close
to 8 people look over my RV beforehand, he found little amiss. This is as it should
be.
First Flight:
Was Sunday afternoon. Pilot was my good friend Mike Ensley who has decades of tail
dragger experience, and over 100 hours in his rv7. The builder in me wanted
to watch it fly more than the pilot in me wanted to be the first to fly it.
I am also the classic one who builds too much and flies too little.
Mike began with some fast taxi tests then stopped at the end of the taxiway, did
a runup and announced, "Experimental 8432 departing runway 23".
Never thought I would hear that.
Before I could worry about the wings falling off, he was 100 feet off the runway
and climbing very fast. Everyone congratulated me but my focus was on that
small airplane circling ever higher around the airport. I had a hand held, but
didn't use it. I didn't want to interrupt the moment for either him nor I. Finally
I mustered a "How's it going?". "Fine, I am having a ball".
Mike landed, taxied over to applause from our small gathering of friends and family.
He slid back the canopy, turned to me with the RV Grin and said, "You now
have an airplane". Funny thing about that grin as I had it too.
We returned home to pizza and beer, and to watch the jerky video my brother made.
He said if I wanted a pro I should have paid real money. Brothers are like
that.
Post First Flight:
Mike said flight was smooth with no major issues. No perceived 'heavy wing', and
no indication I royally botched the wing mounting. Mike said my Tach was off
by a factor of two on my LightSpeed, and my elevator trim tab switch was wired
backwards. I said what do you mean? Push the up switch, trim tab moves up, Press
down, and the trim tab moves down...think about it.
Mike said he didn't recall using the aileron trim, no need. He also mentioned that
he had trouble getting the tail to stay down on landing. I told him a single
pilot and full fuel puts the CG pretty far forward on an RV8.
Now on to pilot/builder rust removal, tail dragger and RV transition training.
I am also going to start learning how to actually use the instruments I installed.
Thanks:
I have a long list of people who were pivotal in my RV8 not winding up under a
blue tarp in the back yard, and I have thanked them all. But this thank you goes
to you, my builder's group. I lost count of the times I would get an answer
from you often as fast as I wrote it. The countless encouragements, news both
good and bad, the wackiness, the sadness when we lost someone, the primer wars,
the untold 'not on my bird' declarations, and of course the traditional announcement
we all hope to make, first flight.
I am still a builder as I have the wheel pants remaining, but my moment of ascendency
is fast approaching and frankly, twelve years in the land of 'building
experience' is a very long time.
Good luck to all of you and (again a list tradition) 'Just Keep pounding those
rivets!
Vince_Himsl
Idaho / Washington USA
RV8 N8432 - Done!
Insert movie times and more without leaving Hotmail. See how.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Filler for unwanted Rivet Holes |
| From: | japhillipsga(at)aol.com |
Garey, I used J B Weld on the?incorrect No.40 holes. Anything much bigger probably
needs something else ?? I used JB on all my pull rivets center holes on all
my RV-8a?tail fiberglass tips. Sands off smooth and won't fall out. I used JB
Weld on my Zenith 601 XL I built 5 years ago on various oops holes and nary
any have shown out. Best of luck, Bill of Georgia
-----Original Message-----
From: gareywittich2000(at)yahoo.com
Sent: Mon, 8 Jun 2009 3:16 pm
Subject: RV8-List: Filler for unwanted Rivet Holes
Greetings:
What material have you Builders used to fill in a couple of unwanted holes in the
Skin, where a rivet can NOT be placed to plug the hole ????
Is Super-Fil a possible solution ????
Thanks,???Garey Wittich? Santa Monica, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: N8432 First Flight |
Congratulations, Vince
I am almost six years into the build. Your success helps us all stay
focused and realize this is possible.
Michael Wynn
RV 8 Fiberglass
San Ramon, CA
In a message dated 6/9/2009 12:14:38 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
vshimsl(at)live.com writes:
Van's RV8 Standard Kit
SN: 80296
Started: March 1997
Finished: June 2009
Sunday afternoon, my RV8 became an airplane. While I prepare for
ascendency into the 25% club. I will give you some details.
Inspection:
Was Saturday. The D.A.R from Spokane was very thorough, but after having
close to 8 people look over my RV beforehand, he found little amiss. This
is
as it should be.
First Flight:
Was Sunday afternoon. Pilot was my good friend Mike Ensley who has decade
s
of tail dragger experience, and over 100 hours in his rv7. The builder in
me wanted to watch it fly more than the pilot in me wanted to be the firs
t
to fly it. I am also the classic one who builds too much and flies too
little.
Mike began with some fast taxi tests then stopped at the end of the
taxiway, did a runup and announced, "Experimental 8432 departing runway
23".
Never thought I would hear that.
Before I could worry about the wings falling off, he was 100 feet off the
runway and climbing very fast. Everyone congratulated me but my focus wa
s
on that small airplane circling ever higher around the airport. I had a
hand held, but didn't use it. I didn't want to interrupt the moment for
either
him nor I. Finally I mustered a "How's it going?". "Fine, I am having a
ball".
Mike landed, taxied over to applause from our small gathering of friends
and family. He slid back the canopy, turned to me with the RV Grin and sa
id,
"You now have an airplane". Funny thing about that grin as I had it too.
We returned home to pizza and beer, and to watch the jerky video my
brother made. He said if I wanted a pro I should have paid real money. Br
others
are like that.
Post First Flight:
Mike said flight was smooth with no major issues. No perceived 'heavy
wing', and no indication I royally botched the wing mounting. Mike said
my Tach
was off by a factor of two on my LightSpeed, and my elevator trim tab
switch was wired backwards. I said what do you mean? Push the up switch,
trim
tab moves up, Press down, and the trim tab moves down...think about it.
Mike said he didn't recall using the aileron trim, no need. He also
mentioned that he had trouble getting the tail to stay down on landing.
I told
him a single pilot and full fuel puts the CG pretty far forward on an RV8
.
Now on to pilot/builder rust removal, tail dragger and RV transition
training. I am also going to start learning how to actually use the instr
uments
I installed.
Thanks:
I have a long list of people who were pivotal in my RV8 not winding up
under a blue tarp in the back yard, and I have thanked them all. But this
thank you goes to you, my builder's group. I lost count of the times I wo
uld
get an answer from you often as fast as I wrote it. The countless
encouragements, news both good and bad, the wackiness, the sadness when
we lost
someone, the primer wars, the untold 'not on my bird' declarations, and
of course
the traditional announcement we all hope to make, first flight.
I am still a builder as I have the wheel pants remaining, but my moment
of
ascendency is fast approaching and frankly, twelve years in the land of
'building experience' is a very long time.
Good luck to all of you and (again a list tradition) 'Just Keep pounding
those rivets!
Vince_Himsl
Idaho / Washington USA
RV8 N8432 - Done!
____________________________________
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(http://windowslive.com/Tutorial/Hotmail/QuickAdd?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_T
utorial_QuickAd
d_062009)
========================
============
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========================
============
========================
============
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========================
============
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000004)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com> |
| Subject: | N8432 First Flight |
Vince,
Congratulations on getting it airborne, and thanks for the great write-up.
There is a bunch of motivation in there.
Terry
RV-8A Seattle
90% and holding
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Vincent Himsl
Sent: Tuesday, June 09, 2009 12:09 AM
Subject: RV8-List: N8432 First Flight
Van's RV8 Standard Kit
SN: 80296
Started: March 1997
Finished: June 2009
Sunday afternoon, my RV8 became an airplane. While I prepare for ascendency
into the 25% club. I will give you some details.
Inspection:
Was Saturday. The D.A.R from Spokane was very thorough, but after having
close to 8 people look over my RV beforehand, he found little amiss. This is
as it should be.
First Flight:
Was Sunday afternoon. Pilot was my good friend Mike Ensley who has decades
of tail dragger experience, and over 100 hours in his rv7. The builder in me
wanted to watch it fly more than the pilot in me wanted to be the first to
fly it. I am also the classic one who builds too much and flies too little.
Mike began with some fast taxi tests then stopped at the end of the taxiway,
did a runup and announced, "Experimental 8432 departing runway 23".
Never thought I would hear that.
Before I could worry about the wings falling off, he was 100 feet off the
runway and climbing very fast. Everyone congratulated me but my focus was
on that small airplane circling ever higher around the airport. I had a hand
held, but didn't use it. I didn't want to interrupt the moment for either
him nor I. Finally I mustered a "How's it going?". "Fine, I am having a
ball".
Mike landed, taxied over to applause from our small gathering of friends and
family. He slid back the canopy, turned to me with the RV Grin and said,
"You now have an airplane". Funny thing about that grin as I had it too.
We returned home to pizza and beer, and to watch the jerky video my brother
made. He said if I wanted a pro I should have paid real money. Brothers are
like that.
Post First Flight:
Mike said flight was smooth with no major issues. No perceived 'heavy wing',
and no indication I royally botched the wing mounting. Mike said my Tach was
off by a factor of two on my LightSpeed, and my elevator trim tab switch was
wired backwards. I said what do you mean? Push the up switch, trim tab moves
up, Press down, and the trim tab moves down...think about it.
Mike said he didn't recall using the aileron trim, no need. He also
mentioned that he had trouble getting the tail to stay down on landing. I
told him a single pilot and full fuel puts the CG pretty far forward on an
RV8.
Now on to pilot/builder rust removal, tail dragger and RV transition
training. I am also going to start learning how to actually use the
instruments I installed.
Thanks:
I have a long list of people who were pivotal in my RV8 not winding up under
a blue tarp in the back yard, and I have thanked them all. But this thank
you goes to you, my builder's group. I lost count of the times I would get
an answer from you often as fast as I wrote it. The countless
encouragements, news both good and bad, the wackiness, the sadness when we
lost someone, the primer wars, the untold 'not on my bird' declarations, and
of course the traditional announcement we all hope to make, first flight.
I am still a builder as I have the wheel pants remaining, but my moment of
ascendency is fast approaching and frankly, twelve years in the land of
'building experience' is a very long time.
Good luck to all of you and (again a list tradition) 'Just Keep pounding
those rivets!
Vince_Himsl
Idaho / Washington USA
RV8 N8432 - Done!
_____
Insert movie times and more without leaving HotmailR. See how.
<http://windowslive.com/Tutorial/Hotmail/QuickAdd?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_Tutor
ial_QuickAdd_062009>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Weride" <weride(at)surewest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: N8432 First Flight |
Way to go Vince. Seems like every time I'm ready to throw in the towel
someone finishes there project and I can read there excitement in
reaching there goal and the satisfaction of there accomplishment.Your an
inspiration to all of us still pounding away.
Tom Davies
N60TD (Reserved)
2 years 6 months....firewall forward
----- Original Message -----
From: Vincent Himsl
To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, June 09, 2009 12:09 AM
Subject: RV8-List: N8432 First Flight
Van's RV8 Standard Kit
SN: 80296
Started: March 1997
Finished: June 2009
Sunday afternoon, my RV8 became an airplane. While I prepare for
ascendency into the 25% club. I will give you some details.
Inspection:
Was Saturday. The D.A.R from Spokane was very thorough, but after
having close to 8 people look over my RV beforehand, he found little
amiss. This is as it should be.
First Flight:
Was Sunday afternoon. Pilot was my good friend Mike Ensley who has
decades of tail dragger experience, and over 100 hours in his rv7. The
builder in me wanted to watch it fly more than the pilot in me wanted to
be the first to fly it. I am also the classic one who builds too much
and flies too little.
Mike began with some fast taxi tests then stopped at the end of the
taxiway, did a runup and announced, "Experimental 8432 departing runway
23".
Never thought I would hear that.
Before I could worry about the wings falling off, he was 100 feet off
the runway and climbing very fast. Everyone congratulated me but my
focus was on that small airplane circling ever higher around the
airport. I had a hand held, but didn't use it. I didn't want to
interrupt the moment for either him nor I. Finally I mustered a "How's
it going?". "Fine, I am having a ball".
Mike landed, taxied over to applause from our small gathering of
friends and family. He slid back the canopy, turned to me with the RV
Grin and said, "You now have an airplane". Funny thing about that grin
as I had it too.
We returned home to pizza and beer, and to watch the jerky video my
brother made. He said if I wanted a pro I should have paid real money.
Brothers are like that.
Post First Flight:
Mike said flight was smooth with no major issues. No perceived 'heavy
wing', and no indication I royally botched the wing mounting. Mike said
my Tach was off by a factor of two on my LightSpeed, and my elevator
trim tab switch was wired backwards. I said what do you mean? Push the
up switch, trim tab moves up, Press down, and the trim tab moves
down...think about it.
Mike said he didn't recall using the aileron trim, no need. He also
mentioned that he had trouble getting the tail to stay down on landing.
I told him a single pilot and full fuel puts the CG pretty far forward
on an RV8.
Now on to pilot/builder rust removal, tail dragger and RV transition
training. I am also going to start learning how to actually use the
instruments I installed.
Thanks:
I have a long list of people who were pivotal in my RV8 not winding up
under a blue tarp in the back yard, and I have thanked them all. But
this thank you goes to you, my builder's group. I lost count of the
times I would get an answer from you often as fast as I wrote it. The
countless encouragements, news both good and bad, the wackiness, the
sadness when we lost someone, the primer wars, the untold 'not on my
bird' declarations, and of course the traditional announcement we all
hope to make, first flight.
I am still a builder as I have the wheel pants remaining, but my
moment of ascendency is fast approaching and frankly, twelve years in
the land of 'building experience' is a very long time.
Good luck to all of you and (again a list tradition) 'Just Keep
pounding those rivets!
Vince_Himsl
Idaho / Washington USA
RV8 N8432 - Done!
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
Insert movie times and more without leaving Hotmail=AE. See how.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Speedy11(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: First Flight |
Vince Himsl,
Congratulations on flying 8432. I hope to be close behind you in a coupl
e
of weeks.
Stan Sutterfield
**************Dell Inspiron 15 Laptop: Now in 6 vibrant colors! Shop Dell
=99s
full line of laptops.
=http:%2F%2Fad.doubleclick.net%2Fclk%3B215566094%3B3786435
8%3Bv)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Garey Wittich <gareywittich2000(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Bolt Hole Clearance - Elevator Horn |
REF: -Regarding the 1/4 inch bolt holes in the Elevator Control Horns, ab
out which the Left & Right Elevator Horns rotate on the center Hinge Bearin
g fastened to the center of the Horiz Stabilizer.
After drilling these 1/4 inch diameter holes (for the AN4 Bolt), these hole
s are too close to the weld fillet that welds the torque tube to the perpen
dicular part of the Horn. -The weld fillets on my L & R Horns go ALL the
way around the Tube. Thus the AN4 Bolt HEAD and corresponding Nut HEAD will
come in contact with the "weld fillet" BEFORE they are tightened. --
- After reading the "Archieves" for possible solutions and some of my own
thoughts it seems the options are (looking for the BEST Option):
1) Die Grind the weld fillet in the area where the Bolt and Nut heads will
be, then spot prime with Zinc Chromate.
2) -Grind the weld fillet where the Nut Head will be and then use a reduc
ed size Nut (MS21042-4) that has a smaller diameter than the -one supplie
d by Vans.
3) -Use regular AN960 Washers and "contour them" to fit over the weld fil
let so Bolt Head and Nut fit snug against them. -(Will need a longer Bolt
than supplied by Vans.)
4) -Make a "thick" washer out of stainless steel (i.e. 1/8" thick) and "c
ontour it" to fit over the weld fillets; thus the Bolt and Nut heads have a
flat surface to tighten against. -Again a longer Bolt will be required.
-<----- Seems the BEST approach to me. - Any subtle issues involved ???
How did YOU handle this situation ???????
Appreciate your comments !!!
Thanks, - Garey Wittich - Santa Monica, CA=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Huffaker <bifft(at)xmission.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Bolt Hole Clearance - Elevator Horn |
On Sun, 14 Jun 2009, Garey Wittich wrote:
> - After reading the "Archieves" for possible solutions and some of my
>own thoughts it seems the options are (looking for the BEST Option):
> 1) Die Grind the weld fillet in the area where the Bolt and Nut heads
>will be, then spot prime with Zinc Chromate.
>> 2) -Grind the weld fillet where the Nut Head will be and then use a
>reduced size Nut (MS21042-4) that has a smaller diameter than the -one
>supplied by Vans.
I believe that grinding away the fillet on a structural weld is a bad
idea, leaves a stress riser and weakens the part. Van is pretty good at
only using steel where absolutely needed for strength so I doubt there is
enough extra to remove this safely.
> 3) -Use regular AN960 Washers and "contour them" to fit over the weld
>fillet so Bolt Head and Nut fit snug against them. -(Will need a longer
>Bolt than supplied by Vans.)
> 4) -Make a "thick" washer out of stainless steel (i.e. 1/8" thick) and
>"contour it" to fit over the weld fillets; thus the Bolt and Nut heads
>have a flat surface to tighten against. -Again a longer Bolt will be
>required. -<----- Seems the BEST approach to me. - Any subtle issues
>involved ???
Either of these sound good to me.
> How did YOU handle this situation ???????
Just checked my parts, my hole is close, but it has enough space for a
washer and bolt head between this hole and the weld.
Brian Huffaker, DSWL (bifft(at)xmission.com)
RV-8A 80091 Fitting canopy latch.
1/4 Starduster II N23UT flying