Rocket-Archive.digest.vol-as
September 30, 2007 - March 17, 2008
mogas tho. Go for it.
On 9/28/07, David Miller wrote:
>
> Does anyone know of an inverted fuel system, for a Lycoming 540, that
> will work with auto fuel.
>
> Dave Miller
> Tennessee
> HRII under construction
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Stone" <jrstone(at)insightbb.com> |
| Subject: | jumpstarting a Rocket |
Does anyone know of a product that allows one to jumpstart a Rocket when
the battery has run down?
I have 10 to 1 pistons and after flying for a while, getting gas, I am
unable to start due to very high resistance to cranking caused, I assume
by the hot engine. After cooling for 2 hours or so, she turns easy and
starts right up. I thought the problem was with the P680s being 4-5
years old so I replaced them. No improvement to the problem. All
suggestions welcome.
TIA,
Jim Stone
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "nico css" <nico(at)cybersuperstore.com> |
| Subject: | jumpstarting a Rocket |
Are you sure you don't have a hydrostatic lock?
_____
From: owner-rocket-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rocket-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jim Stone
Sent: Sunday, September 30, 2007 7:16 PM
Subject: Rocket-List: jumpstarting a Rocket
Does anyone know of a product that allows one to jumpstart a Rocket when the
battery has run down?
I have 10 to 1 pistons and after flying for a while, getting gas, I am
unable to start due to very high resistance to cranking caused, I assume by
the hot engine. After cooling for 2 hours or so, she turns easy and starts
right up. I thought the problem was with the P680s being 4-5 years old so I
replaced them. No improvement to the problem. All suggestions welcome.
TIA,
Jim Stone
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wayne Hadath" <whadath(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Jump Starting a Rocket |
Jim
I would suggest a few things to look at are, How old is the battery? Has it
been run flat? If it is 2 years or has been run flat it is not what it used
to be.
It may be time for a starter overhaul. It may be a bit of both.
Wayne
F1 Rocket
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Martin" <fairlea(at)amtelecom.net> |
| Subject: | jumpstarting a Rocket |
Jim
Typically these engines turn over much easier hot than cold,
especially with higher compression pistons. That has been my experience.
Since you have eliminated the battery issue then check all big lead
connections, especially ground connections. Take the starter off and take
it to your local automotive starter shop and have it checked out. Also next
time the engine is hot, be careful, and try to turn the prop by hand to see
if there are any restrictions. Hydrostatic lock is not usual in this type
of engine but maybe there is something else going on in the engine itself.
My bets are on the starter. I have had two new skytec starters that have
had to be replaced out of the last four airplanes. The replacements have
worked fine.
Tom
_____
From: owner-rocket-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rocket-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jim Stone
Sent: September 30, 2007 10:16 PM
Subject: Rocket-List: jumpstarting a Rocket
Does anyone know of a product that allows one to jumpstart a Rocket when the
battery has run down?
I have 10 to 1 pistons and after flying for a while, getting gas, I am
unable to start due to very high resistance to cranking caused, I assume by
the hot engine. After cooling for 2 hours or so, she turns easy and starts
right up. I thought the problem was with the P680s being 4-5 years old so I
replaced them. No improvement to the problem. All suggestions welcome.
TIA,
Jim Stone
"http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Rocket-List"http://www.matronics.com/Nav
igator?Rocket-List
9:46 PM
9:46 PM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rgraham(at)ozemail.com.au |
| Subject: | Re: jumpstarting a Rocket |
Jim,
Which starter motor do you have and is your engine to airframe earth
connection good?
Cheers,
Ron Graham (F1 #105, Oz)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Stone" <jrstone(at)insightbb.com> |
| Subject: | Re: jumpstarting a Rocket |
Thanks for all the troubleshooting tips. I'll address each one here.
I have the B&C starter, two new PC680 batteries, I used number two
aircraft wire from battery to firewall for both Pos and Neg., The Neg
cable home runs to the forest of tabs on the firewall, then on to engine
block.
I will check all grounds and positive connections all the way to the
starter, today and will report back.
As for Hydrostatic lock, I'm not sure how that could be the problem
unless a whole lot of fuel got into the cylinder, is that reasonable?
My hot start symptom is: normal rotation and some firing but no start,
as I continue to crank, the high resistance wins over the batteries and
the cranking degrades to one or two blades before stopping. After
cranking and no start, I feel like the engine is not getting any fuel so
I advance the mixture midway. That is about the time the battery is
running down (hydrostatic lock?).
As for hot start technique, I understand that full throttle and mixture
off with no prime is the general recommendation, however, I have been
cautioned about using that procedure in a Harmon Rocket because the tail
has come off the ground and scarred to poo out of the owner. Any
comments here?
I was hoping someone has come up with a simple and permanent charging
and jumpstart system where the battery cover would not have to be
removed/replaced. I would like to avoid an external opening type system
as per Bob Nuckolls design.
Thanks for al the help,
If you would rather talk than type, call anytime. 502 235-3599 or send
my you number, I'll call you.
----- Original Message -----
From: Tom Martin
To: rocket-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 7:09 AM
Subject: RE: Rocket-List: jumpstarting a Rocket
Jim
Typically these engines turn over much easier hot than
cold, especially with higher compression pistons. That has been my
experience.
Since you have eliminated the battery issue then check all big lead
connections, especially ground connections. Take the starter off and
take it to your local automotive starter shop and have it checked out.
Also next time the engine is hot, be careful, and try to turn the prop
by hand to see if there are any restrictions. Hydrostatic lock is not
usual in this type of engine but maybe there is something else going on
in the engine itself.
My bets are on the starter. I have had two new skytec starters that
have had to be replaced out of the last four airplanes. The
replacements have worked fine.
Tom
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
From: owner-rocket-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rocket-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jim Stone
Sent: September 30, 2007 10:16 PM
To: rocket-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Rocket-List: jumpstarting a Rocket
Does anyone know of a product that allows one to jumpstart a Rocket
when the battery has run down?
I have 10 to 1 pistons and after flying for a while, getting gas, I am
unable to start due to very high resistance to cranking caused, I assume
by the hot engine. After cooling for 2 hours or so, she turns easy and
starts right up. I thought the problem was with the P680s being 4-5
years old so I replaced them. No improvement to the problem. All
suggestions welcome.
TIA,
Jim Stone
Release Date: 29/09/2007 9:46 PM
29/09/2007 9:46 PM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "nico css" <nico(at)cybersuperstore.com> |
| Subject: | jumpstarting a Rocket |
Type is better, then I can read it when I have time.
If the engine is turning over, hydrostatic lock is out of the question.
Without trying to instruct you, hydrostatic locks ruined engines where one
cylinder was flooded with more fuel than the compression chamber's capacity
and a cylinder earlier in the firing order fires first. There is no way that
the fired-up engine can stop on the flooded cylinder and it usually bends
the conrod. (and ruins plans for flying). If the engine turns through all
cylinders, there is no hydrostatic lock.
It is either flooded or fuel-starved, if the ignition is firing. For fuel
injected Lyc hot-starts, I used to intentionally flood the engine and then
crank it with fuel cut off and full throttle - but that was in a trike. The
Rocket might well change position quickly with that technique.
I would agree with the other folks that you may have to focus on the battery
and the starter, to increase battery capacity and/or reduce starter load.
Nico
_____
From: owner-rocket-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rocket-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jim Stone
Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 5:59 AM
Subject: Re: Rocket-List: jumpstarting a Rocket
Thanks for all the troubleshooting tips. I'll address each one here.
I have the B&C starter, two new PC680 batteries, I used number two aircraft
wire from battery to firewall for both Pos and Neg., The Neg cable home runs
to the forest of tabs on the firewall, then on to engine block.
I will check all grounds and positive connections all the way to the
starter, today and will report back.
As for Hydrostatic lock, I'm not sure how that could be the problem unless a
whole lot of fuel got into the cylinder, is that reasonable?
My hot start symptom is: normal rotation and some firing but no start, as I
continue to crank, the high resistance wins over the batteries and the
cranking degrades to one or two blades before stopping. After cranking and
no start, I feel like the engine is not getting any fuel so I advance the
mixture midway. That is about the time the battery is running down
(hydrostatic lock?).
As for hot start technique, I understand that full throttle and mixture off
with no prime is the general recommendation, however, I have been cautioned
about using that procedure in a Harmon Rocket because the tail has come off
the ground and scarred to poo out of the owner. Any comments here?
I was hoping someone has come up with a simple and permanent charging and
jumpstart system where the battery cover would not have to be
removed/replaced. I would like to avoid an external opening type system as
per Bob Nuckolls design.
Thanks for al the help,
If you would rather talk than type, call anytime. 502 235-3599 or send my
you number, I'll call you.
----- Original Message -----
From: Tom Martin <mailto:fairlea(at)amtelecom.net>
Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 7:09 AM
Subject: RE: Rocket-List: jumpstarting a Rocket
Jim
Typically these engines turn over much easier hot than cold,
especially with higher compression pistons. That has been my experience.
Since you have eliminated the battery issue then check all big lead
connections, especially ground connections. Take the starter off and take
it to your local automotive starter shop and have it checked out. Also next
time the engine is hot, be careful, and try to turn the prop by hand to see
if there are any restrictions. Hydrostatic lock is not usual in this type
of engine but maybe there is something else going on in the engine itself.
My bets are on the starter. I have had two new skytec starters that have
had to be replaced out of the last four airplanes. The replacements have
worked fine.
Tom
_____
From: owner-rocket-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rocket-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jim Stone
Sent: September 30, 2007 10:16 PM
Subject: Rocket-List: jumpstarting a Rocket
Does anyone know of a product that allows one to jumpstart a Rocket when the
battery has run down?
I have 10 to 1 pistons and after flying for a while, getting gas, I am
unable to start due to very high resistance to cranking caused, I assume by
the hot engine. After cooling for 2 hours or so, she turns easy and starts
right up. I thought the problem was with the P680s being 4-5 years old so I
replaced them. No improvement to the problem. All suggestions welcome.
TIA,
Jim Stone
Release Date: 29/09/2007 9:46 PM
29/09/2007 9:46 PM
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Rocket-List">http://www.matronhref
"http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Bell tailwheel and Screaming Eagle tailwheel |
| From: | "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier(at)usi.edu> |
Guys,
Bell makes a fine tailwheel. No doubt about it. But so do I. IMHO, if
you have a Van's or Rocket taildragger you should have either a Bell or
a Screaming Eagle tailwheel installed. You will love the better
handling and the extra clearance that either will provide.
A Screaming Eagle tailwheel is a bit more streamlined and more closely
resembles the stock Van's type. Screaming Eagle tailwheels will accept
a wheel pant and still be able to full swivel if you're a total speed
freak.
A Screaming Eagle tailwheel fork is available to EASILY retrofit your
existing Van's fork. Literally a 5 minute swap.
I have tailwheels, tires, and replacement parts in stock all of the
time. I usually ship the following day.
Screaming Eagle tailwheels are guaranteed. If you don't like it, send it
back.
Please take a look at the website below as there is far too much info to
list here. For instance, I offer a durable, lightweight tailwheel tire
that is 6 oz lighter than the Van's tire. Also sealed bearing to
eliminate the mess on the rudder.
Thanks,
Vince Frazier
Screaming Eagle Graphics and Accessories, LLC
3965 Caborn Road
Mount Vernon, IN 47620
812-464-1839
http://vincesrocket.com/products.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wernerworld" <russ(at)wernerworld.com> |
| Subject: | Re: jumpstarting a Rocket |
Another thing that can cause a similar symptom is ignition firing too
early and hitting before TDC.
----- Original Message -----
From: nico css
Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 9:28 AM
Subject: RE: Rocket-List: jumpstarting a Rocket
Type is better, then I can read it when I have time.
If the engine is turning over, hydrostatic lock is out of the question.
Without trying to instruct you, hydrostatic locks ruined engines where
one cylinder was flooded with more fuel than the compression chamber's
capacity and a cylinder earlier in the firing order fires first. There
is no way that the fired-up engine can stop on the flooded cylinder and
it usually bends the conrod. (and ruins plans for flying). If the engine
turns through all cylinders, there is no hydrostatic lock.
It is either flooded or fuel-starved, if the ignition is firing. For
fuel injected Lyc hot-starts, I used to intentionally flood the engine
and then crank it with fuel cut off and full throttle - but that was in
a trike. The Rocket might well change position quickly with that
technique.
I would agree with the other folks that you may have to focus on the
battery and the starter, to increase battery capacity and/or reduce
starter load.
Nico
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-------
From: owner-rocket-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rocket-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jim Stone
Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 5:59 AM
Subject: Re: Rocket-List: jumpstarting a Rocket
Thanks for all the troubleshooting tips. I'll address each one here.
I have the B&C starter, two new PC680 batteries, I used number two
aircraft wire from battery to firewall for both Pos and Neg., The Neg
cable home runs to the forest of tabs on the firewall, then on to engine
block.
I will check all grounds and positive connections all the way to the
starter, today and will report back.
As for Hydrostatic lock, I'm not sure how that could be the problem
unless a whole lot of fuel got into the cylinder, is that reasonable?
My hot start symptom is: normal rotation and some firing but no start,
as I continue to crank, the high resistance wins over the batteries and
the cranking degrades to one or two blades before stopping. After
cranking and no start, I feel like the engine is not getting any fuel so
I advance the mixture midway. That is about the time the battery is
running down (hydrostatic lock?).
As for hot start technique, I understand that full throttle and mixture
off with no prime is the general recommendation, however, I have been
cautioned about using that procedure in a Harmon Rocket because the tail
has come off the ground and scarred to poo out of the owner. Any
comments here?
I was hoping someone has come up with a simple and permanent charging
and jumpstart system where the battery cover would not have to be
removed/replaced. I would like to avoid an external opening type system
as per Bob Nuckolls design.
Thanks for al the help,
If you would rather talk than type, call anytime. 502 235-3599 or send
my you number, I'll call you.
----- Original Message -----
From: Tom Martin
To: rocket-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 7:09 AM
Subject: RE: Rocket-List: jumpstarting a Rocket
Jim
Typically these engines turn over much easier hot than
cold, especially with higher compression pistons. That has been my
experience.
Since you have eliminated the battery issue then check all big lead
connections, especially ground connections. Take the starter off and
take it to your local automotive starter shop and have it checked out.
Also next time the engine is hot, be careful, and try to turn the prop
by hand to see if there are any restrictions. Hydrostatic lock is not
usual in this type of engine but maybe there is something else going on
in the engine itself.
My bets are on the starter. I have had two new skytec starters that
have had to be replaced out of the last four airplanes. The
replacements have worked fine.
Tom
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
From: owner-rocket-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rocket-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jim Stone
Sent: September 30, 2007 10:16 PM
To: rocket-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Rocket-List: jumpstarting a Rocket
Does anyone know of a product that allows one to jumpstart a Rocket
when the battery has run down?
I have 10 to 1 pistons and after flying for a while, getting gas, I am
unable to start due to very high resistance to cranking caused, I assume
by the hot engine. After cooling for 2 hours or so, she turns easy and
starts right up. I thought the problem was with the P680s being 4-5
years old so I replaced them. No improvement to the problem. All
suggestions welcome.
TIA,
Jim Stone
Release Date: 29/09/2007 9:46 PM
29/09/2007 9:46 PM
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Rocket-List">http://www.matron
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-------
10/1/2007 10:20 AM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "nico css" <nico(at)cybersuperstore.com> |
| Subject: | jumpstarting a Rocket |
I doubt it. An advanced ignition timing would cause the engine to kick-back
and it would do the same after the cool-down period. But, apparently, it
starts normally after cooling down. I believe the battery doesn't have the
capacity to crank the engine long (fast) enough to fire up during a hot
start. I had a 500 Commander with suspicious batteries, and during hot
starts it would easily exhaust the batteries capacity. One day a guy lifted
his Centurion's battery to give me a jump-start. The cranking was at least
double the speed of my regular batteries and the engines fired up without
any problems. I replaced the batteries and the problem went away
immediately.
Nico
_____
From: owner-rocket-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rocket-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Wernerworld
Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 8:52 AM
Subject: Re: Rocket-List: jumpstarting a Rocket
Another thing that can cause a similar symptom is ignition firing too early
and hitting before TDC.
----- Original Message -----
From: nico <mailto:nico(at)cybersuperstore.com> css
Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 9:28 AM
Subject: RE: Rocket-List: jumpstarting a Rocket
Type is better, then I can read it when I have time.
If the engine is turning over, hydrostatic lock is out of the question.
Without trying to instruct you, hydrostatic locks ruined engines where one
cylinder was flooded with more fuel than the compression chamber's capacity
and a cylinder earlier in the firing order fires first. There is no way that
the fired-up engine can stop on the flooded cylinder and it usually bends
the conrod. (and ruins plans for flying). If the engine turns through all
cylinders, there is no hydrostatic lock.
It is either flooded or fuel-starved, if the ignition is firing. For fuel
injected Lyc hot-starts, I used to intentionally flood the engine and then
crank it with fuel cut off and full throttle - but that was in a trike. The
Rocket might well change position quickly with that technique.
I would agree with the other folks that you may have to focus on the battery
and the starter, to increase battery capacity and/or reduce starter load.
Nico
_____
From: owner-rocket-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rocket-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jim Stone
Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 5:59 AM
Subject: Re: Rocket-List: jumpstarting a Rocket
Thanks for all the troubleshooting tips. I'll address each one here.
I have the B&C starter, two new PC680 batteries, I used number two aircraft
wire from battery to firewall for both Pos and Neg., The Neg cable home runs
to the forest of tabs on the firewall, then on to engine block.
I will check all grounds and positive connections all the way to the
starter, today and will report back.
As for Hydrostatic lock, I'm not sure how that could be the problem unless a
whole lot of fuel got into the cylinder, is that reasonable?
My hot start symptom is: normal rotation and some firing but no start, as I
continue to crank, the high resistance wins over the batteries and the
cranking degrades to one or two blades before stopping. After cranking and
no start, I feel like the engine is not getting any fuel so I advance the
mixture midway. That is about the time the battery is running down
(hydrostatic lock?).
As for hot start technique, I understand that full throttle and mixture off
with no prime is the general recommendation, however, I have been cautioned
about using that procedure in a Harmon Rocket because the tail has come off
the ground and scarred to poo out of the owner. Any comments here?
I was hoping someone has come up with a simple and permanent charging and
jumpstart system where the battery cover would not have to be
removed/replaced. I would like to avoid an external opening type system as
per Bob Nuckolls design.
Thanks for al the help,
If you would rather talk than type, call anytime. 502 235-3599 or send my
you number, I'll call you.
----- Original Message -----
From: Tom Martin <mailto:fairlea(at)amtelecom.net>
Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 7:09 AM
Subject: RE: Rocket-List: jumpstarting a Rocket
Jim
Typically these engines turn over much easier hot than cold,
especially with higher compression pistons. That has been my experience.
Since you have eliminated the battery issue then check all big lead
connections, especially ground connections. Take the starter off and take
it to your local automotive starter shop and have it checked out. Also next
time the engine is hot, be careful, and try to turn the prop by hand to see
if there are any restrictions. Hydrostatic lock is not usual in this type
of engine but maybe there is something else going on in the engine itself.
My bets are on the starter. I have had two new skytec starters that have
had to be replaced out of the last four airplanes. The replacements have
worked fine.
Tom
_____
From: owner-rocket-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rocket-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jim Stone
Sent: September 30, 2007 10:16 PM
Subject: Rocket-List: jumpstarting a Rocket
Does anyone know of a product that allows one to jumpstart a Rocket when the
battery has run down?
I have 10 to 1 pistons and after flying for a while, getting gas, I am
unable to start due to very high resistance to cranking caused, I assume by
the hot engine. After cooling for 2 hours or so, she turns easy and starts
right up. I thought the problem was with the P680s being 4-5 years old so I
replaced them. No improvement to the problem. All suggestions welcome.
TIA,
Jim Stone
Release Date: 29/09/2007 9:46 PM
29/09/2007 9:46 PM
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Rocket-List">http://www.matronhref
"http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Rocket-List">http://www.matronhref
"http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
_____
Edition. 10/1/2007 10:20 AM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "dlbenham" <dlbenham(at)hughes.net> |
| Subject: | Re: jumpstarting a Rocket |
Is hydrostatic lock the same as hydraulic lock? Inquiring minds want to
know.
Dallas Benham
398DB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JOHNTMEY(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Hot Starting Rocket |
Current thread reminds me of question of hot starting the IO-540. (cold
start never a problem)
Every now and then, mine gets cranky. Won't start hot. I have an Airflow
recirculating valve which seems to complicate the matter. After pumping, I
can't tell if I'm wet or dry. Guess I don't know how to use it.
My best bet is to open the oil door after parking... then later re-start
with no recirculation, no prime, mix cut-off, throttle 1/2 open. It usually
pops right off while enrichening mixture, then will smooth-out with a short
burst of electric pump. Requires lots of hand movements
Any other hints ?
JohnM N5800
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "nico css" <nico(at)cybersuperstore.com> |
| Subject: | jumpstarting a Rocket |
Apparently, they are the same.
_____
From: owner-rocket-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rocket-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of dlbenham
Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 10:46 AM
Subject: Re: Rocket-List: jumpstarting a Rocket
Is hydrostatic lock the same as hydraulic lock? Inquiring minds want to
know.
Dallas Benham
398DB
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Hot Starting Rocket |
My hot start procedure from my checklist, as provided by Ron Carter:
HOT START
Mixture Closed
Throttle Closed
Fuel Pump run it until you hear it load up
Starter run starter --BTW, my starter switch is on my stick so I
can hold it back
Mixture to 1 inch Upon firing, full rich, throttle slowly move the
mixture forward no more than one inch( while running the starter) When if fires,
push it full forward and add some throttle Keep the stick full back during
all this
This has always worked for me, and I appreciate Ron's telling me how to do
it. Before I learned this, I jump started two times. Once at my
hangar--no big deal, but once at a small airport duing the test hours. His rust
bucket Nissan PU was parked between my wing and tail! You can bet I kept my feet
firmly on the brakes during that episode.
Cal B.
F1 116 125 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Hot Starting Rocket |
| From: | "Chuck Jensen" <cjensen(at)dts9000.com> |
I concur with the start procedure suggested by Cal but I modify it by,
after flooding the hot engine, by cutting the mixture to full off. The
engine will always catch as you spin the engine with the starter. As it
passes from the flooded condition toward lean cutoff, the fuel mixture,
at some point, it will be perfect. When the engine catches, there will
be enough momentum in the engine that pushing the mixture full rich will
allow the engine to continue to run. This techniques saves having to
carry a ruler to measure the 1" of mixture movement. :-)
Chuck Jensen
[Chuck Jensen] -----Original Message-----
From: owner-rocket-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rocket-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
CalBru(at)aol.com
Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 2:00 PM
Subject: Re: Rocket-List: Hot Starting Rocket
My hot start procedure from my checklist, as provided by Ron Carter:
HOT START
Mixture Closed
Throttle Closed
Fuel Pump run it until you hear it load up
Starter run starter --BTW, my starter switch is on my stick
so I can hold it back
Mixture to 1 inch Upon firing, full rich, throttle slowly move the
mixture forward no more than one inch( while running the starter) When
if fires, push it full forward and add some throttle Keep the stick
full back during all this
This has always worked for me, and I appreciate Ron's telling me how to
do it. Before I learned this, I jump started two times. Once at my
hangar--no big deal, but once at a small airport duing the test hours.
His rust bucket Nissan PU was parked between my wing and tail! You can
bet I kept my feet firmly on the brakes during that episode.
Cal B.
F1 116 125 hours
_____
Make AOL Your Homepage.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "nico css" <nico(at)cybersuperstore.com> |
| Subject: | Hot Starting Rocket |
That sounds like how Continental would start, except that the mix is full
rich and the throttle is advanced slowly. I believe that the Contis have a
boost pump on the throttle, not sure about that at all. But the Lycs are a
different beast altogether.
My theory behind intentional flooding is that I get to start from a known
point in the procedure. Most failed starts I had before adopting this
procedure were because I didn't know whether it was flooded or starved and
cranked the battery dead before I could figure out what to do. Since I
cannot intentionally starve the cylinders of fuel, I went the other
direction. Fuel pumps on until fuel spills out the overflow line, fuel
cutoff, full throttle and crank until it fires (burst of power) and then
lots of hand movement to keep it running. Works every time, even the 380HP
geared motor in the Commander 680.
Nico
_____
From: owner-rocket-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rocket-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
JOHNTMEY(at)aol.com
Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 10:37 AM
Subject: Rocket-List: Hot Starting Rocket
Current thread reminds me of question of hot starting the IO-540. (cold
start never a problem)
Every now and then, mine gets cranky. Won't start hot. I have an Airflow
recirculating valve which seems to complicate the matter. After pumping, I
can't tell if I'm wet or dry. Guess I don't know how to use it.
My best bet is to open the oil door after parking... then later re-start
with no recirculation, no prime, mix cut-off, throttle 1/2 open. It usually
pops right off while enrichening mixture, then will smooth-out with a short
burst of electric pump. Requires lots of hand movements
Any other hints ?
JohnM N5800
_____
Make AOL Your Homepage.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Stone" <jrstone(at)insightbb.com> |
| Subject: | Re: jumpstarting a Rocket |
I retarded both the mag and the Electronic ignition to 20 deg today.
I'll fly it tomorrow a.m. and will report back.
----- Original Message -----
From: Wernerworld
To: rocket-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 11:52 AM
Subject: Re: Rocket-List: jumpstarting a Rocket
Another thing that can cause a similar symptom is ignition firing too
early and hitting before TDC.
----- Original Message -----
From: nico css
To: rocket-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 9:28 AM
Subject: RE: Rocket-List: jumpstarting a Rocket
Type is better, then I can read it when I have time.
If the engine is turning over, hydrostatic lock is out of the
question. Without trying to instruct you, hydrostatic locks ruined
engines where one cylinder was flooded with more fuel than the
compression chamber's capacity and a cylinder earlier in the firing
order fires first. There is no way that the fired-up engine can stop on
the flooded cylinder and it usually bends the conrod. (and ruins plans
for flying). If the engine turns through all cylinders, there is no
hydrostatic lock.
It is either flooded or fuel-starved, if the ignition is firing. For
fuel injected Lyc hot-starts, I used to intentionally flood the engine
and then crank it with fuel cut off and full throttle - but that was in
a trike. The Rocket might well change position quickly with that
technique.
I would agree with the other folks that you may have to focus on the
battery and the starter, to increase battery capacity and/or reduce
starter load.
Nico
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
From: owner-rocket-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rocket-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jim Stone
Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 5:59 AM
To: rocket-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: Rocket-List: jumpstarting a Rocket
Thanks for all the troubleshooting tips. I'll address each one here.
I have the B&C starter, two new PC680 batteries, I used number two
aircraft wire from battery to firewall for both Pos and Neg., The Neg
cable home runs to the forest of tabs on the firewall, then on to engine
block.
I will check all grounds and positive connections all the way to the
starter, today and will report back.
As for Hydrostatic lock, I'm not sure how that could be the problem
unless a whole lot of fuel got into the cylinder, is that reasonable?
My hot start symptom is: normal rotation and some firing but no start,
as I continue to crank, the high resistance wins over the batteries and
the cranking degrades to one or two blades before stopping. After
cranking and no start, I feel like the engine is not getting any fuel so
I advance the mixture midway. That is about the time the battery is
running down (hydrostatic lock?).
As for hot start technique, I understand that full throttle and
mixture off with no prime is the general recommendation, however, I have
been cautioned about using that procedure in a Harmon Rocket because the
tail has come off the ground and scarred to poo out of the owner. Any
comments here?
I was hoping someone has come up with a simple and permanent charging
and jumpstart system where the battery cover would not have to be
removed/replaced. I would like to avoid an external opening type system
as per Bob Nuckolls design.
Thanks for al the help,
If you would rather talk than type, call anytime. 502 235-3599 or
send my you number, I'll call you.
----- Original Message -----
From: Tom Martin
To: rocket-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 7:09 AM
Subject: RE: Rocket-List: jumpstarting a Rocket
Jim
Typically these engines turn over much easier hot than
cold, especially with higher compression pistons. That has been my
experience.
Since you have eliminated the battery issue then check all big lead
connections, especially ground connections. Take the starter off and
take it to your local automotive starter shop and have it checked out.
Also next time the engine is hot, be careful, and try to turn the prop
by hand to see if there are any restrictions. Hydrostatic lock is not
usual in this type of engine but maybe there is something else going on
in the engine itself.
My bets are on the starter. I have had two new skytec starters that
have had to be replaced out of the last four airplanes. The
replacements have worked fine.
Tom
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
---
From: owner-rocket-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rocket-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jim Stone
Sent: September 30, 2007 10:16 PM
To: rocket-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Rocket-List: jumpstarting a Rocket
Does anyone know of a product that allows one to jumpstart a Rocket
when the battery has run down?
I have 10 to 1 pistons and after flying for a while, getting gas, I
am unable to start due to very high resistance to cranking caused, I
assume by the hot engine. After cooling for 2 hours or so, she turns
easy and starts right up. I thought the problem was with the P680s
being 4-5 years old so I replaced them. No improvement to the problem.
All suggestions welcome.
TIA,
Jim Stone
Release Date: 29/09/2007 9:46 PM
29/09/2007 9:46 PM
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Rocket-List">http://www.matron
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Rocket-List">http://www.matron
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
Edition. 10/1/2007 10:20 AM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wernerworld" <russ(at)wernerworld.com> |
| Subject: | Re: jumpstarting a Rocket |
The timing to check is the one while cranking. Usually it is set to
TDC. I just replaced a mag and switched to a model that starts at 5
ATDC and runs at 25 deg.
Russ
----- Original Message -----
I retarded both the mag and the Electronic ignition to 20 deg today.
I'll fly it tomorrow a.m. and will report back.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Stone" <jrstone(at)insightbb.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Hot Starting Rocket |
I can't believe the heat that comes out the dipstick door when pointed
into the wind. That really helps after a failed attempt.
Thanks,
Jim Stone
----- Original Message -----
From: JOHNTMEY(at)aol.com
To: rocket-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 1:36 PM
Subject: Rocket-List: Hot Starting Rocket
Current thread reminds me of question of hot starting the IO-540.
(cold start never a problem)
Every now and then, mine gets cranky. Won't start hot. I have an
Airflow recirculating valve which seems to complicate the matter. After
pumping, I can't tell if I'm wet or dry. Guess I don't know how to use
it.
My best bet is to open the oil door after parking... then later
re-start with no recirculation, no prime, mix cut-off, throttle 1/2
open. It usually pops right off while enrichening mixture, then will
smooth-out with a short burst of electric pump. Requires lots of hand
movements
Any other hints ?
JohnM N5800
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
Make AOL Your Homepage.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Stone" <jrstone(at)insightbb.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Hot Starting Rocket |
I'll give that a try.
Thanks,
Jim Stone
----- Original Message -----
From: CalBru(at)aol.com
To: rocket-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 1:59 PM
Subject: Re: Rocket-List: Hot Starting Rocket
My hot start procedure from my checklist, as provided by Ron Carter:
HOT START
Mixture Closed
Throttle Closed
Fuel Pump run it until you hear it load up
Starter run starter --BTW, my starter switch is on my stick
so I can hold it back
Mixture to 1 inch Upon firing, full rich, throttle slowly move the
mixture forward no more than one inch( while running the starter) When
if fires, push it full forward and add some throttle Keep the stick
full back during all this
This has always worked for me, and I appreciate Ron's telling me how
to do it. Before I learned this, I jump started two times. Once at
my hangar--no big deal, but once at a small airport duing the test
hours. His rust bucket Nissan PU was parked between my wing and tail!
You can bet I kept my feet firmly on the brakes during that episode.
Cal B.
F1 116 125 hours
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
Make AOL Your Homepage.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Stone" <jrstone(at)insightbb.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Hot Starting Rocket |
Thanks Chuck,
Jim Stone
----- Original Message -----
From: Chuck Jensen
To: rocket-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 2:44 PM
Subject: RE: Rocket-List: Hot Starting Rocket
I concur with the start procedure suggested by Cal but I modify it by,
after flooding the hot engine, by cutting the mixture to full off. The
engine will always catch as you spin the engine with the starter. As it
passes from the flooded condition toward lean cutoff, the fuel mixture,
at some point, it will be perfect. When the engine catches, there will
be enough momentum in the engine that pushing the mixture full rich will
allow the engine to continue to run. This techniques saves having to
carry a ruler to measure the 1" of mixture movement. :-)
Chuck Jensen
[Chuck Jensen] -----Original Message-----
From: owner-rocket-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rocket-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
CalBru(at)aol.com
Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 2:00 PM
To: rocket-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: Rocket-List: Hot Starting Rocket
My hot start procedure from my checklist, as provided by Ron Carter:
HOT START
Mixture Closed
Throttle Closed
Fuel Pump run it until you hear it load up
Starter run starter --BTW, my starter switch is on my
stick so I can hold it back
Mixture to 1 inch Upon firing, full rich, throttle slowly move
the mixture forward no more than one inch( while running the starter)
When if fires, push it full forward and add some throttle Keep the
stick full back during all this
This has always worked for me, and I appreciate Ron's telling me how
to do it. Before I learned this, I jump started two times. Once at
my hangar--no big deal, but once at a small airport duing the test
hours. His rust bucket Nissan PU was parked between my wing and tail!
You can bet I kept my feet firmly on the brakes during that episode.
Cal B.
F1 116 125 hours
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
---
Make AOL Your Homepage.
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Rocket-List">http://www.matron
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Stone" <jrstone(at)insightbb.com> |
| Subject: | Re: jumpstarting a Rocket |
The impulse coupler on my slick mag fires at 25 deg prior to what ever
you have it set at during start. So at 20 deg normal position, during
start it should fire at 5 deg ATDC, like your new one. I'm thinking
this will help with the battery drain problem during a hot start.
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: Wernerworld
To: rocket-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 9:49 PM
Subject: Re: Rocket-List: jumpstarting a Rocket
The timing to check is the one while cranking. Usually it is set to
TDC. I just replaced a mag and switched to a model that starts at 5
ATDC and runs at 25 deg.
Russ
----- Original Message -----
I retarded both the mag and the Electronic ignition to 20 deg today.
I'll fly it tomorrow a.m. and will report back.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Bell tailwheel and Screaming Eagle tailwheel |
Will your tailwheel fork fit in the existing RV-4 tailwheel mount?
Jim Ayers
805-795-5377
-----Original Message-----
From: Frazier, Vincent A <VFrazier(at)usi.edu>
Sent: Mon, 1 Oct 2007 8:41 am
Subject: Rocket-List: Bell tailwheel and Screaming Eagle tailwheel
Guys,
Bell makes a fine tailwheel.? No doubt about it.? But so do I.? IMHO, if you have
a Van's or Rocket taildragger you should have either a Bell or a Screaming
Eagle tailwheel installed.? You will love the better handling and the extra clearance
that either will provide.
A Screaming Eagle tailwheel is a bit more streamlined and more closely resembles
the stock Van's type.? Screaming Eagle tailwheels will accept a wheel pant and
still be able to full swivel if you're a total speed freak.
A Screaming Eagle tailwheel fork is available to EASILY retrofit your existing
Van's fork.? Literally a 5 minute swap.
I have tailwheels, tires, and replacement parts in stock all of the time.? I usually
ship the following day.
Screaming Eagle tailwheels are guaranteed. If you don't like it, send it back.
Please take a look at the website below as there is far too much info to list here.?
For instance, I offer a durable, lightweight tailwheel tire that is 6 oz
lighter than the Van's tire.? Also sealed bearing to eliminate the mess on the
rudder.
Thanks,
Vince Frazier
Screaming Eagle Graphics and Accessories, LLC
3965 Caborn Road
Mount Vernon, IN 47620
812-464-1839
http://vincesrocket.com/products.htm
?
________________________________________________________________________
Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail! - http://mail.aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Stone" <jrstone(at)insightbb.com> |
| Subject: | Update on Jim's Rocket |
Rocketteers,
To update you on the rapid battery drain and high CHTs:
I did some starter circuit troubleshooting and found a couple of wire
segments with slightly high resistance and will work on those very soon.
I changed the timing to 20 deg bftdc and yesterday, all temps were
below 390, even in the climb. Leaning still causes #6 to run on up
towards 410 not sure why. Oil pressure adjusted up from 60 to 70 with
two washers. Oil temp still good at 190-200. The #4 cylinder runs
cool, 80 deg or so cooler than the hottest #6, I cleaned the injector
with an ultrasonic cleaner with no improvement. After flying to three
different fields to do a touch and go, and test work at altitude I am
starting to get more confident in the engine and actually did a few
rolls yesterday. I've got about 12 hours now. Following shutdown and a
15-20 minutes simulated fuel stop, I did a restart using the technique
that most guys recommended in the last few days. The trick is to get it
started quickly and with the right technique, that is possible now.
Thanks for all the advice guys.
Jim Stone
Louisville
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | James Baldwin <jamesbaldwin(at)dc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Update on Jim's Rocket |
Jim -
Has any one spoken to you about or have you read about the whole subject
of injector balance and its relation to an individual cylinder's
EGT/CHT? If not, say so and I'll get you started on an education which
most of the guys with an injection system are beginning to understand is
infinitely tunable. JBB
Jim Stone wrote:
> Rocketteers,
> To update you on the rapid battery drain and high CHTs:
>
> I did some starter circuit troubleshooting and found a couple of wire
> segments with slightly high resistance and will work on those very
> soon. I changed the timing to 20 deg bftdc and yesterday, all temps
> were below 390, even in the climb. Leaning still causes #6 to run on
> up towards 410 not sure why. Oil pressure adjusted up from 60 to 70
> with two washers. Oil temp still good at 190-200. The #4 cylinder
> runs cool, 80 deg or so cooler than the hottest #6, I cleaned the
> injector with an ultrasonic cleaner with no improvement. After flying
> to three different fields to do a touch and go, and test work at
> altitude I am starting to get more confident in the engine and
> actually did a few rolls yesterday. I've got about 12 hours
> now. Following shutdown and a 15-20 minutes simulated fuel stop, I
> did a restart using the technique that most guys recommended in the
> last few days. The trick is to get it started quickly and with the
> right technique, that is possible now. Thanks for all the advice guys.
> Jim Stone
> Louisville
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "nico css" <nico(at)cybersuperstore.com> |
| Subject: | Update on Jim's Rocket |
Wow, I guess we could all benefit from that, JBB, so would you consider this
"say so" as sufficient motive to go ahead?
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rocket-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rocket-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of James Baldwin
Sent: Thursday, October 04, 2007 7:16 AM
Subject: Re: Rocket-List: Update on Jim's Rocket
Jim -
Has any one spoken to you about or have you read about the whole subject
of injector balance and its relation to an individual cylinder's
EGT/CHT? If not, say so and I'll get you started on an education which
most of the guys with an injection system are beginning to understand is
infinitely tunable. JBB
Jim Stone wrote:
> Rocketteers,
> To update you on the rapid battery drain and high CHTs:
>
> I did some starter circuit troubleshooting and found a couple of wire
> segments with slightly high resistance and will work on those very
> soon. I changed the timing to 20 deg bftdc and yesterday, all temps
> were below 390, even in the climb. Leaning still causes #6 to run on
> up towards 410 not sure why. Oil pressure adjusted up from 60 to 70
> with two washers. Oil temp still good at 190-200. The #4 cylinder
> runs cool, 80 deg or so cooler than the hottest #6, I cleaned the
> injector with an ultrasonic cleaner with no improvement. After flying
> to three different fields to do a touch and go, and test work at
> altitude I am starting to get more confident in the engine and
> actually did a few rolls yesterday. I've got about 12 hours
> now. Following shutdown and a 15-20 minutes simulated fuel stop, I
> did a restart using the technique that most guys recommended in the
> last few days. The trick is to get it started quickly and with the
> right technique, that is possible now. Thanks for all the advice guys.
> Jim Stone
> Louisville
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Steve Irving <vwbugin(at)sbcglobal.net> |
Jim,
On your #6 cylinder you might want to make a very close inspection of the line
and fittings coming out of the flow divider going to the injector. I had a situation
just like you and after many flights trying to clean the injector, looking
for fod in the flow divider, etc. I discovered the stainless steel line
from the flow divider to the injector had a very small hole in it. Since the fuel
coming out of the flow divider is not under any pressure I didn't have any
of the usual signs of a leak. But the crack was enough to allow air in the system
which caused that injector to be lean. I would swap the line with another
line and see if the problem follows the line. I was able to find the defect in
my line but it took a magnifying glass to do it. The defect was located at the
joint where the end is braised on.
Steve
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | James Baldwin <jamesbaldwin(at)dc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Update on Jim's Rocket |
Hi Nico,
I will certainly share my knowledge with all the listers and this will
probably start a good general discussion on the subject. Having said
that, my basis of understanding is from my personal experience with
aircraft, my engineering background and, most importantly from people
like GAMI and Barrett Aircraft Engines as they really are the experts
with respect to internal combustion in these very simple normally
aspirated aircraft engines. Anyone who has used a dyno like these
people have are the ones who have documented the behavior we are
observing. I won;t have an rebuilt/new engine on my airplane that
hasn't been on a dyno/test cell.
All of the progress made in the last decade is mostly a result of the
vastly increased amount of digital information available through the
many different data acquisition systems available. Lean of peak
operation was never even considered in my experience before GAMI or with
carburetors. Others began teaching that each cylinder is really an
independent little expansion device all by itself (an internal
combustion engine is nothing more than a device which uses hydrocarbons
to create an expansion in the volume of a fluid which is mechanically
converted to rotational energy, i.e. torque). The inefficiencies were a
result of uneven airflow distribution which led to (AND HERE'S THE BIG
ONE!) each cylinder reaching its peak temperature during leaning
(increased efficiency) at different times. The number (EGT)
wasn't/isn't important, it's WHEN it happens. Who cares if one
cylinder doesn't get as much air as another or if its exhaust tract is
less efficient, it is contributing to the overall output of the engine
at the best level it can given its intake/exhaust tract efficiency with
an ideal amount of fuel for that cylinder. But, if it reaches its peak
of efficiency at a significantly different time than its brother or
sister cylinder then one or more of them will not be as efficient as the
reference cylinder. So, what we do is accept the fact that all are not
equal for whatever reason and match the fuel requirement to the specific
airflow capability of that cylinder. GAMI does this with a matched set
of injectors and Airflow Injection does it by supplying injectors with
different sized orifices in a similar way.
Jim Stone is noting that one cylinder is running at a higher CHT than
another and, all other things being equal, is really suffering from the
probable reality that all of his little engines aren't in lock step
mixture wise. We could take this to extremes by flow matching all of
the individual intake tract/cylinder head/exhaust tracts but the more
practical approach for us is usually to match the peak temp EGT point by
matching the flow nozzle to how much air is really going into each
cylinder. My guess is once he really ascertains his baffling is as
close to perfect as he can get it he will find he needs to log the
temperature peak for each cylinder with respect to overall fuel flow and
then adjust the nozzle for that cylinder until he can standardize it to,
probably somewhere around the .1 to .2 GPH flow rate. I am betting the
CHTs will be close and if not then there are other mechanical issues
(improper cyl/piston clearance, leaky valve seat, ignition issue,etc)
that might be looked at once the cooling airflow is assured. A new
engine during breakin complicates this whole process and should be
completed before embarking on an efficiency quest.
What is really wrong is needing to retard an already retarded ignition
event. The electronic ignitions show us at the higher altitudes the
factory fixed setting of 25 deg BTDC is way late and efficiencies are
easy to get by moving it to somewhere (variable) around 10-12 degress
earlier. Operation lean of peak requires even more time to get the
combustion event completed (or nearly so) with fewer molecules of fuel
to combust. Even at the low speeds we're talking about here (2000-3000
RPM) the ignition/combustion event is in the millisecond range and is
pretty darn quick.
I could say a lot more but this is a pretty basic and well known intro
to the subject and anyone who feels like it can jump in and
add/refute/ridicule or whatever. If the guys from Barrett chime in
you'll hear from the real experts. I haven't asked them a question they
didn't have an excellent answer for based on quite a bit of experience.
GAMI has classes you can attend. JBB
nico css wrote:
>
> Wow, I guess we could all benefit from that, JBB, so would you consider this
> "say so" as sufficient motive to go ahead?
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rocket-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rocket-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of James Baldwin
> Sent: Thursday, October 04, 2007 7:16 AM
> To: rocket-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Rocket-List: Update on Jim's Rocket
>
>
> Jim -
> Has any one spoken to you about or have you read about the whole subject
> of injector balance and its relation to an individual cylinder's
> EGT/CHT? If not, say so and I'll get you started on an education which
> most of the guys with an injection system are beginning to understand is
> infinitely tunable. JBB
>
> Jim Stone wrote:
>
>> Rocketteers,
>> To update you on the rapid battery drain and high CHTs:
>>
>> I did some starter circuit troubleshooting and found a couple of wire
>> segments with slightly high resistance and will work on those very
>> soon. I changed the timing to 20 deg bftdc and yesterday, all temps
>> were below 390, even in the climb. Leaning still causes #6 to run on
>> up towards 410 not sure why. Oil pressure adjusted up from 60 to 70
>> with two washers. Oil temp still good at 190-200. The #4 cylinder
>> runs cool, 80 deg or so cooler than the hottest #6, I cleaned the
>> injector with an ultrasonic cleaner with no improvement. After flying
>> to three different fields to do a touch and go, and test work at
>> altitude I am starting to get more confident in the engine and
>> actually did a few rolls yesterday. I've got about 12 hours
>> now. Following shutdown and a 15-20 minutes simulated fuel stop, I
>> did a restart using the technique that most guys recommended in the
>> last few days. The trick is to get it started quickly and with the
>> right technique, that is possible now. Thanks for all the advice guys.
>> Jim Stone
>> Louisville
>> *
>>
>>
>> *
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Stone" <jrstone(at)insightbb.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Update on Jim's Rocket |
Hi James,
Randy Pflanzer has documented his experience on his website but I have not
yet had a close look at it.
I'll take any help I can get. I'm ready so fire away.
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "James Baldwin" <jamesbaldwin(at)dc.rr.com>
Sent: Thursday, October 04, 2007 10:15 AM
Subject: Re: Rocket-List: Update on Jim's Rocket
>
> Jim -
> Has any one spoken to you about or have you read about the whole subject
> of injector balance and its relation to an individual cylinder's EGT/CHT?
> If not, say so and I'll get you started on an education which most of the
> guys with an injection system are beginning to understand is infinitely
> tunable. JBB
>
> Jim Stone wrote:
>> Rocketteers,
>> To update you on the rapid battery drain and high CHTs:
>> I did some starter circuit troubleshooting and found a couple of wire
>> segments with slightly high resistance and will work on those very soon.
>> I changed the timing to 20 deg bftdc and yesterday, all temps were below
>> 390, even in the climb. Leaning still causes #6 to run on up towards 410
>> not sure why. Oil pressure adjusted up from 60 to 70 with two washers.
>> Oil temp still good at 190-200. The #4 cylinder runs cool, 80 deg or so
>> cooler than the hottest #6, I cleaned the injector with an ultrasonic
>> cleaner with no improvement. After flying to three different fields to
>> do a touch and go, and test work at altitude I am starting to get more
>> confident in the engine and actually did a few rolls yesterday. I've got
>> about 12 hours now. Following shutdown and a 15-20 minutes simulated
>> fuel stop, I did a restart using the technique that most guys
>> recommended in the last few days. The trick is to get it started quickly
>> and with the right technique, that is possible now. Thanks for all the
>> advice guys.
>> Jim Stone
>> Louisville
>> *
>>
>>
>> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Stone" <jrstone(at)insightbb.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Jim's Rocket |
Good one Steve,
I'll take a look.
Jim Stone
----- Original Message -----
From: Steve Irving
To: rocket-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, October 04, 2007 1:42 PM
Subject: Rocket-List: Jim's Rocket
Jim,
On your #6 cylinder you might want to make a very close inspection of
the line and fittings coming out of the flow divider going to the
injector. I had a situation just like you and after many flights trying
to clean the injector, looking for fod in the flow divider, etc. I
discovered the stainless steel line from the flow divider to the
injector had a very small hole in it. Since the fuel coming out of the
flow divider is not under any pressure I didn't have any of the usual
signs of a leak. But the crack was enough to allow air in the system
which caused that injector to be lean. I would swap the line with
another line and see if the problem follows the line. I was able to find
the defect in my line but it took a magnifying glass to do it. The
defect was located at the joint where the end is braised on.
Steve
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | lean of peak injector balancing |
| From: | "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier(at)usi.edu> |
Jim,
Read this.
http://www.swaircraftappraisals.com/MeyersForum/Engine%20Info/Engine%20O
peration/Pelican's%20Perch%20Mixture%20Magic.htm
It will tell you what you need to know.
To balance your injectors only requires a few flights to get 'em pretty
close. More if you really want excuses to test fly.
The injectors that came with your engine are most likely all the same
ID. But each cylinder has different flow patterns. IOW, the injectors
should be matched to the flow, but they aren't.
Assuming that you have a 6 cylinder EGT monitoring capability, fly at a
fixed throttle and prop setting and altitude, start rich of peak and
begin leaning and record the fuel flow vs. EGT every 0.1 gph. Just
record the stuff near the peak EGTs, not all the way down from 28gph. No
need for that much data! You're just looking for the peaks.
The first cylinder to peak is the leanest, and so on. When you get back
on the ground, call Don Rivera at Airflow Performance and tell him what
you found. He can send you new injectors of varying ID to replace your
existing ones. It's not that expensive and you'll easily save the money
back in fuel savings.
Basically, you're going to swap the leanest injector for one with a bit
larger ID. Changing one injector changes the flow to the others since
they're all drinking from the same well. So, you will have some trial
and error involved, but not too much.
You might need to swap the injectors around a bit, but when you get the
peaks to happen within a GPH, or better yet, 0.5GPH you should have a
smooth running, LOP, gas saving, clean plugs, cool temps engine.
This is all from memory... hope I remembered the high spots.
Vince
P.S. Make sure that your EGT probes really are in the cylinder that you
think they are or it'll get real interesting.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: lean of peak injector balancing |
| From: | Michael W Stewart <mike.stewart(at)us.ibm.com> |
You may find this useful.
MIke
http://www.mstewart.net/super8/nozzles/index.htm
"Frazier, Vincent
A"
Sent by:
cc
owner-rocket-list
-server@matronics Subj
ect
.com Rocket-List: lean of peak inject
or
balancing
10/05/2007 10:59
AM
Please respond to
rocket-list@matro
nics.com
du>
Jim,
Read this.
http://www.swaircraftappraisals.com/MeyersForum/Engine%20Info/Engine%20
O
peration/Pelican's%20Perch%20Mixture%20Magic.htm
It will tell you what you need to know.
To balance your injectors only requires a few flights to get 'em pretty
close. More if you really want excuses to test fly.
The injectors that came with your engine are most likely all the same
ID. But each cylinder has different flow patterns. IOW, the injectors
should be matched to the flow, but they aren't.
Assuming that you have a 6 cylinder EGT monitoring capability, fly at a
fixed throttle and prop setting and altitude, start rich of peak and
begin leaning and record the fuel flow vs. EGT every 0.1 gph. Just
record the stuff near the peak EGTs, not all the way down from 28gph. N
o
need for that much data! You're just looking for the peaks.
The first cylinder to peak is the leanest, and so on. When you get bac
k
on the ground, call Don Rivera at Airflow Performance and tell him what
you found. He can send you new injectors of varying ID to replace your
existing ones. It's not that expensive and you'll easily save the mone
y
back in fuel savings.
Basically, you're going to swap the leanest injector for one with a bit
larger ID. Changing one injector changes the flow to the others since
they're all drinking from the same well. So, you will have some trial
and error involved, but not too much.
You might need to swap the injectors around a bit, but when you get the
peaks to happen within a GPH, or better yet, 0.5GPH you should have a
smooth running, LOP, gas saving, clean plugs, cool temps engine.
This is all from memory... hope I remembered the high spots.
Vince
P.S. Make sure that your EGT probes really are in the cylinder that you
think they are or it'll get real interesting.
========================
============
========================
============
========================
============
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Update on Jim's Rocket |
| From: | "Don" <airflow2(at)bellsouth.net> |
To chime in here, Jims comment/dissertation on nozzle tuning is mostly correct.
At peak EGT the engine is not necessarily running at peak efficiency. If you
talk to people that have the equipment to actually measure efficiency, that
is outfits that have dynos that measure air flow, fuel flow, torque, etc; not
just a prop stand, BSFC and BSAC will give the efficiency of the engine. The
point at which the EGT peaks is a specific fuel air ratio. This is what were
trying to match. There are curves that show (Lycoming data) that even with different
engines, naturally aspirated and turbo charge, the point at which EGT
peaked was the same F/A for each engine and the F/A changed a specific amount
to the change from peak EGT. This was again true of any engine they tested.
Obviously the EGT number was different for the turbo charged engines and the naturally
aspirated engines at peak EGT, but the F/A was the same. So a given
change form peak EGT results in a specific F/A. For instance running 200 rich
of peak EGT results in a F/A of .086. Peak EGT is a F/A of .065. This is pretty
much true for any Lycoming engine, and probably most engines. So what Jim
said is were adjusting the fuel flow to the cylinders air flow so that all the
cylinders run at the same F/A.
An important consideration when gathering the data is to not exceed 25MAP, keep
the fuel flow above the point where the flow divider influences the flow division
and let the EGT stabilize before changing fuel flow to get a new line of
data. This means that if you use a data logger to capture data, slowing leaning
the mixture control while gathering data will result in mostly worthless data,
as the EGT does not respond as fast as the fuel flow indication.
If you need more instruction on this process give me a call or email me off line.
Don
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=138379#138379
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Stone" <jrstone(at)insightbb.com> |
| Subject: | Re: lean of peak injector balancing |
Great stuff, thanks Vince,
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier(at)usi.edu>
Sent: Friday, October 05, 2007 10:59 AM
Subject: Rocket-List: lean of peak injector balancing
>
>
> Jim,
>
> Read this.
>
> http://www.swaircraftappraisals.com/MeyersForum/Engine%20Info/Engine%20O
> peration/Pelican's%20Perch%20Mixture%20Magic.htm
>
> It will tell you what you need to know.
>
> To balance your injectors only requires a few flights to get 'em pretty
> close. More if you really want excuses to test fly.
>
> The injectors that came with your engine are most likely all the same
> ID. But each cylinder has different flow patterns. IOW, the injectors
> should be matched to the flow, but they aren't.
>
> Assuming that you have a 6 cylinder EGT monitoring capability, fly at a
> fixed throttle and prop setting and altitude, start rich of peak and
> begin leaning and record the fuel flow vs. EGT every 0.1 gph. Just
> record the stuff near the peak EGTs, not all the way down from 28gph. No
> need for that much data! You're just looking for the peaks.
>
> The first cylinder to peak is the leanest, and so on. When you get back
> on the ground, call Don Rivera at Airflow Performance and tell him what
> you found. He can send you new injectors of varying ID to replace your
> existing ones. It's not that expensive and you'll easily save the money
> back in fuel savings.
>
> Basically, you're going to swap the leanest injector for one with a bit
> larger ID. Changing one injector changes the flow to the others since
> they're all drinking from the same well. So, you will have some trial
> and error involved, but not too much.
>
> You might need to swap the injectors around a bit, but when you get the
> peaks to happen within a GPH, or better yet, 0.5GPH you should have a
> smooth running, LOP, gas saving, clean plugs, cool temps engine.
>
> This is all from memory... hope I remembered the high spots.
>
> Vince
>
> P.S. Make sure that your EGT probes really are in the cylinder that you
> think they are or it'll get real interesting.
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Screaming Eagle tailwheel fork fits RV sockets |
| From: | "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier(at)usi.edu> |
YES. It would be pretty tough to swap 'em out in 5 minutes if any real
work were required.
Refer to my website. You take a couple measurements off of your
existing fork, send them to me, and I send you the right fork PDQ.
Usually the next day.
Thanks,
Vince
************************************************************************
**************
SNIP Will your tailwheel fork fit in the existing RV-4 tailwheel mount?
Jim Ayers
805-795-5377
-----Original Message-----
From: Frazier, Vincent A <VFrazier(at)usi.edu>
Sent: Mon, 1 Oct 2007 8:41 am
Subject: Rocket-List: Bell tailwheel and Screaming Eagle tailwheel
Guys,
Bell makes a fine tailwheel.? No doubt about it.? But so do I.? IMHO, if
you have a Van's or Rocket taildragger you should have either a Bell or
a Screaming Eagle tailwheel installed.? You will love the better
handling and the extra clearance that either will provide.
A Screaming Eagle tailwheel is a bit more streamlined and more closely
resembles the stock Van's type.? Screaming Eagle tailwheels will accept
a wheel pant and still be able to full swivel if you're a total speed
freak.
A Screaming Eagle tailwheel fork is available to EASILY retrofit your
existing Van's fork.? Literally a 5 minute swap.
I have tailwheels, tires, and replacement parts in stock all of the
time.? I usually ship the following day.
Screaming Eagle tailwheels are guaranteed. If you don't like it, send it
back.
Please take a look at the website below as there is far too much info to
list here.?
For instance, I offer a durable, lightweight tailwheel tire that is 6 oz
lighter than the Van's tire.? Also sealed bearing to eliminate the mess
on the rudder.
Thanks,
Vince Frazier
Screaming Eagle Graphics and Accessories, LLC
3965 Caborn Road
Mount Vernon, IN 47620
812-464-1839
http://vincesrocket.com/products.htm SNIP
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Stone" <jrstone(at)insightbb.com> |
| Subject: | The latest difficulties |
HRII
Today during postflight I discovered a hole in the upper side of the air
intake tube to the fuel servo. This thin fiberglass Y shaped tube was
fiberglassed into the bottom cowl. The hole was caused by not enough
clearance between the tube and the starter. I plan to make a small
blister in the tube but can foresee some difficulty trying to sand that
area on the inside of the tube. Anyone else have this problem?
The second problem is an ongoing one in which I would like to correct.
When I transmit on either com radio, the sidetone is way too loud, not
so much my voice but the noisy background of the engine at cruise power.
On the ground it is fine, airborne it is terrible. My senhouser book
may have mentioned an adjustment screw on the mic and I will check that
tomorrow.
BTW, my sidetone adjustments in the Audio adjustment section are at the
minimum level for the GNS-480. The SL-40 has an adjustment in the
System setup.
Thanks for any and all help.
Jim Stone
Louisville
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Stuart Pearson <stubiker(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | The latest difficulties |
Hi Jim,
I can't help with the air intake problem, but I have dealt with the com pr
oblem before. The fast easy solution is what we call a "Mic Condom". It is
a foam rubber cover for the microphone that David Clark sells. They are ver
y inexpensive and only take a second to slip over the microphone of your he
adset. They also make one that has a little leather cover on it. Both work
well. We were getting terrible cockpit noise in the radios in our helicopte
rs until we installed these on the crew's mics. I hope this helps.
Stuart
HRII
Today during postflight I discovered a hole in the upper side of the air in
take tube to the fuel servo. This thin fiberglass Y shaped tube was fiberg
lassed into the bottom cowl. The hole was caused by not enough clearance b
etween the tube and the starter. I plan to make a small blister in the tub
e but can foresee some difficulty trying to sand that area on the inside of
the tube. Anyone else have this problem?
The second problem is an ongoing one in which I would like to correct. Whe
n I transmit on either com radio, the sidetone is way too loud, not so much
my voice but the noisy background of the engine at cruise power. On the g
round it is fine, airborne it is terrible. My senhouser book may have ment
ioned an adjustment screw on the mic and I will check that tomorrow.
BTW, my sidetone adjustments in the Audio adjustment section are at the min
imum level for the GNS-480. The SL-40 has an adjustment in the System setu
p.
Thanks for any and all help.
Jim Stone
Louisville
_________________________________________________________________
Climb to the top of the charts!- Play Star Shuffle:- the word scramble
challenge with star power.
http://club.live.com/star_shuffle.aspx?icid=starshuffle_wlmailtextlink_oc
t
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: The latest difficulties |
Also, I think there is a sidetone adjustment on the intercom.
Cal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry James" <larry(at)ncproto.com> |
| Subject: | fuel line sizing |
Does anyone have any insight on sizing the fuel lines ?? I know some Rocket
Drivers are flying behind some pumped up 540's (and I have one coming also)
and at a projected fuel flow rate of 30 gpm to 40 gpm in climbout; it just
seems (thumb-in-the-air-engineering) that a -6 (3/8") fuel line is a bit
small. Any worries here ??? Don @ AFP ... I'll bet you have a good idea
:-)
Larry E. James
Bellevue, WA
Super Decathlon
Rocket
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hr2pilot(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: fuel line sizing |
I run 3/8" lines on the Rocket III with no problems . The highest fuel flow
I have seen was 41GPH.
John Harmon
D & J Harmon Co., Inc.
2201 Coy Avenue
Bakersfield, CA 93307
661-396-3570
661-396-3574 FAX
web: _www.harmonso2generators.com_ (http://www.harmonso2generators.com/)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry James" <larry(at)ncproto.com> |
| Subject: | fuel line sizing |
Thanks John, Pretty much sums it up :-)
Larry E. James
Bellevue, WA
Super Decathlon
Rocket
>>I run 3/8" lines on the Rocket III with no problems . The highest fuel
flow I have seen was >>41GPH.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: fuel line sizing |
| From: | "Don" <airflow2(at)bellsouth.net> |
Here's what we use for engineering data.
Suction side of pumps:
3/8" tubing #6 51 GPH max. No 90 degree fittings. We like to limit this to
35-40 GPH for most applications.
1/2" tubing #8 89 GPH.
Don at Airflow.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=140334#140334
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gregory V Stone" <GStone57(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: fuel line sizing |
Don,
What about the 90 degree fitting that comes on the braided lines?? Are they
any better?? I have to turn 90, what is the best way?
Thanks Greg
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rocket-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rocket-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Don
Sent: Tuesday, October 16, 2007 6:51 PM
Subject: Rocket-List: Re: fuel line sizing
Here's what we use for engineering data.
Suction side of pumps:
3/8" tubing #6 51 GPH max. No 90 degree fittings. We like to limit
this to 35-40 GPH for most applications.
1/2" tubing #8 89 GPH.
Don at Airflow.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=140334#140334
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: fuel line sizing |
| From: | "Don" <airflow2(at)bellsouth.net> |
What we call "full flow fittings" use a curved tube to make the bend on the hose
end. Use this hose end fitting with a straight fitting in the part to make
the bends when ever possible. This will reduce flow loss rather than using a
90 degree fitting which is drilled with a 90 degree intersection. On the pressure
side of the engine driven fuel pump 90 degree fittings are not a problem.
I like to use full flow hose ends on all the oil cooler hoses and straight fittings
in the engine case and oil cooler. Even though the oil is under pressure
the stuff is higher viscosity, so there may be more flow loss using 90 degree
fittings for this application. I may be just paranoid about this, but that's
how we do installations here.
Don at Airflow
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=140412#140412
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hr2pilot(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Fwd: Rocket II question... |
part2_d6a.10077441.3450c3e8_boundary
-----------------------------1193241064--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hr2pilot(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Fwd: Rocket II question... |
part2_c47.23ba0a62.3450c3e8_boundary
-----------------------------1193241064--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hr2pilot(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Fwd: Rocket II question... |
this is what was sent.... have no clue what that was .... can you forward
Christina Phillips
Harmon Rocket, LLC
2000 South Union Avenue
Bakersfield, CA 93307
661-836-1028 Rocket Shop
661-396-3570 Direct Line
661-396-3574 FAX
_www.harmonrocket.com_ (http://www.harmonrocket.com/)
____________________________________
and _Make AOL Your Homepage_
-----------------
Forwarded Message:
Subj: Rocket II question... Date: 10/23/2007 10:23:35 P.M. Pacific Daylight
Time From: _andrew(at)nmedia.net_ (mailto:andrew(at)nmedia.net) To:
_HarmonRocket(at)aol.com_ (mailto:HarmonRocket(at)aol.com) Sent from the Internet _(Details)_
(aolmsg://0342c838/inethdr/3)
Hello,
Do you know any operations qualified to provide builder's assistance with
Rockets ideally near Chicago?
Thanks,
Andrew
John Harmon
D & J Harmon Co., Inc.
2201 Coy Avenue
Bakersfield, CA 93307
661-396-3570
661-396-3574 FAX
web: _www.harmonso2generators.com_ (http://www.harmonso2generators.com/)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Utterback" <hr69gt(at)gmail.com> |
Harmon Rocket II 35 SMOH Pics and specs (at)hr69gt@gmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rob Ray <smokyray(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Rocket Big Tire Mod... |
Guys,
After banging up my wheelpants, leg fairings and sinking my 5" tires into my
rough, soft, grass strip, I was looking at options to improve my Rocket's footprint.
I didn't want to go to 6" wheels and RV10 pants like my buddy Dale did
with "the Stanley Screamer" HR2 so I was looking for other options.
After getting some great ideas from RV4 builder Steve Sampson in the UK, I installed
a set of 380X150X5 tires (Desser Tire) underneath a standard set of Van's
pressure recovery pants. The tires are significantly larger and look "right"
for the Rocket. They work alot better and give me the clearance and wider footprint
I need around the swamp. Pictures to follow, here is a clip from Steve's
website...
see ya!
Rob Ray
"Swamp Rocket"
More Tyre Pictures There has been some interest in the larger than
normal tyres I am using, so I thought a couple more pictures were appropriate.
While my whole aim is to handle poor surfaces better than the standard tyre,
there is a limit as to how much I want sticking out of the bottom. In order
to control this I have used a narrower spacer between the top of the tyre and
the fairing. The space is of the order of 3/4", so I will have to keep an eye
on the mud build up in there.
This picture shows the tyre inside the fairing. I am far from finished but the
fairing is in position wrt the tyre. It shows just how much is sticking out. From
memory of building my -9A it looks less once the weight of the aircraft is
on the wheel.
I will run the tyres at a lowish pressure also to increase the flotation.
# posted by Retro @ 10:48 AM 0 comments links to this post
Wednesday, October 11, 2006 Wheel Spat. My
unorthodox approach to getting the spat aligned is working well. For me the difficult
bit was deciding where the centre points on the spat were. Aligning them
with the yellow strings you can just see them in this picture, was easy, once
I had that. I know they are pointing in the correct direction, unless gravity
is having an off day. Statistically unlikely. I also know the engine frame
is aligned to within 0.1 deg with a digital level.
The other big advantage is that I have a much better view from underneath, to see
the tyre spat junction, for working out tyre clearance. [I need to make a nice
job of that so the RV6,7 and 9 drivers see a nice job as I shoot by overhead!
:-) ]
This is where the day ended. The spat is on. The next job is to drill the holes
between the front half of the spat and the U-810. Once these are done it will
be all locked in place pretty well with clecos. Then I will cut out more clearance
for the tire.
I will probably then turn to the left wheel, since I cant do much more to this
one before I mix up some glass resin to build reinforcing pads inside the spats.
The shape and texture of these things makes them appear to be alive at times. They
can be quite hard to hang on to. Foam rubber on the floor to cushion them
each time you drop them is useful. The other learning point is don't waste your
time trying to write / mark directly onto them. Stick masking tape on and write
on that.
# posted by Retro @ 10:25 AM 0 comments links to this post
Monday, October 09, 2006 Landing Gear When
I built my -9A, I found I spent a lot of time on the floor trying to align the
wheel spats and fairings. I was never designed to work like that, and I did not
find it a particularly easy task. This time I am going to try the following.
If I place the engine frame in the horizontal plane the wheel fairings need to
be exactly in the vertical plane. It then seems relativly easy to define the vertical
with a plumb bob, so I know how to align the wheel fairings. I have never
heard of anyone doing it this way. I wonder if there are any pitfalls. I think
I will ask on VANS airforce.
My task is made a bit more complicated because I am using oversize tyres. These
are 380x150-5. It is 15" dia and 6" wide. I am not the first to use them in the
UK. Clearly I will have a little tyre more sticking out of the bottom, and
will loose a couple of MPH, but the ground contact area will be much increased
enabling my -4 to handle soft ground much better. Nearly everywhere I land is
grass so it will be a significant advantage.
Assembling the items on the axle seemed more complicated than the last time I
did it. It ended up like this. I was pleased to have a Supercub, with Cleveland
brakes, in my hanger just outside the workshop door. VANS plan leaves a little
to be desired on this point. I think the second one will be easier.
At the close of play today (that is a cricket term for Colonial readers) it looked
like this.
I guess I need to tidy up! Never my strong point.
__________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Rob Ray ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Rob Ray
Lists: Rocket-List,RV-List,RV3-List,RV4-List,RV6-List,RV7-List,RV8-List,RV9-List,RV10-List
Subject: Bigger Tires
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/smokyray@yahoo.com.10.27.2007/index.html
----------------------------------------------------------
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
4) One line Subject description:
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
----------------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | November is Matronics Email List Fund Raiser Month! |
Dear Listers,
You've probably noticed that there are no banner ads or pop-up windows or spam
from any of the List and Forum services at Matronics. These include, for example:
The Email List Postings - http://www.matronics.com/listbrowse
The Email List Forum Site - http://forums.matronics.com
The List Wiki - http://wiki.matronics.com
The List Search Engine - http://www.matronics.com/search
This is because I have always enjoyed a List experience that was completely about
the sport we enjoy - airplanes - and not about advertising!
But running a high performance, highly available service like this isn't free and
a fair amount of money in terms of computer upgrades, business-class Internet
connectivity, and electricity. Consequently, many similar sites turn to advertising
to support these costs. Advertising that you have to look at each and
every time you read an email message or browse the their web site.
Rather than subject my List community to another constant commercial bombardment,
I have chosen to hold a PBS-like fund raiser each year in November to support
the continued operation and upgrade of the List services. It's solely through
the Contributions of List members that the Lists and Forums continue to be
possible!
During the month, I will be sending out a Fund Raiser reminder message every few
days and I ask for your patience and understanding during the month throughout
these regular messages. Think of them as PBS' Pledge Breaks... :-)
To minimize the impact of the Fund Raiser on the List community, I implemented
a new feature late last year specifically related to making Contributions. If
you are an Email List subscriber, once you make a Contribution using the online
web site, you will no longer receive the email from me regarding the Fund Raiser!
There are a couple of exceptions to this, however. If someone replies
to a Contribution message I've sent, you might receive that. Additionally, the
messages will always be posted to the Forums site. To a first order, however,
once you make a Contribution, you won't get my email messages about the Fund
Raiser for the rest of the month. For Contributions by check, the squelch
will take effect once the check is received.
There is a whole new line up of really great Contribution gifts this year! When
you make a qualifying Contribution, you can select one of the many free gifts
that are available during the Fund Raiser. These gifts are provided through
the generous support of a number of our industry's leading supporters including:
Bob Nuckolls - AeroElectric - http://www.aeroelectric.com
Andy Gold - Builder's Bookstore - http://www.buildersbooks.com
Jon Croke - HomebuiltHELP - http://www.homebuilthelp.com
Please visit these guy's respective sites, as they have some great products to
offer and are generously supporting the Matronics List Fund Raiser.
You can make your List Contribution using any one of three secure methods this
year including using a credit card, PayPal, or by personal check. From the Contribution
site, you can select any one of this year's free gifts with a qualifying
Contribution amount. The Contribution page is pretty loooonnnnng this year
in order to list great selection of great gifts available so be sure to scroll
all the way to the bottom of the web page to see everything that's available!
Please make a List Support Contribution:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
I would like to thank everyone in advance for their generous support! Your Contributions
truely keep this operation afloat!
Thank you,
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Forum Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <jerrymanda(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | HR-2 on display sun. Flabob nov 4 |
Nov. 4th 2007 Skyjack will have his HR2 on display from around 11:30am
inside the EAA hangar for the lunch and meeting.
Silver with Flames. I'll park my primered HR2 outside. If you want to
sit in it; go for it.
Any rocket aficionados please join us for $5 lunch at 12 sharp and a
membership meeting afterwards. (I suggest bailing out before the raffle
begins.)
If you fly in; lunch is always free for the pilot in command; and it's
always fried chicken, mashed potatoes etc. pull up around the EAA
hangar.
RIR no tower. Left traffic for 24, inside the mountain.
Bad rivet
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rob Ray <smokyray(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: HR-2 on display sun. Flabob nov 4 |
Sorry I'll miss it jerry. Took my hr2 to the reklaw tx flying last weekend.
Check it out www.reklawflyin.com=0ALots of fun! Seeya!=0A=0ASmokey's iphon
e=0A=0AOn Nov 2, 2007, at 10:34 AM, wrote:=0A=0A
Nov. 4th 2007 Skyjack will have his HR2 on display from around 11:30am insi
de the EAA hangar for the lunch and meeting.=0A=0A =0A=0ASilver with Flames
. I=A2ll park my primered HR2 outside. If you want to sit in it; go for i
t.=0A=0A =0A=0AAny rocket aficionados please join us for $5 lunch at 12 sha
rp and a membership meeting afterwards. (I suggest bailing out before the
raffle begins.)=0A=0A =0A=0AIf you fly in; lunch is always free for the pi
lot in command; and it=A2s always fried chicken, mashed potatoes etc. pul
l up around the EAA hangar.=0A=0A =0A=0ARIR no tower. Left traffic for 24,
=================0A=0A=0A=0A_______________