Zenith-Archive.digest.vol-cw
May 01, 2002 - May 31, 2002
Two up is not legal here in Oz, too, but if I go out there and kill myself
because I can't handle a taildragger Zodiac I wouldn't do our cause a great
service, would I? Australia being what it is it would be on the national
news, and Ultralights an other step closer to be obliterated by CASA.
Nor do I have the possibility to go out and train in a taildragger 601, mine
is the only one on this continent. Plus I am a low time pilot, and yes, I
would have wiped out my undercarriage straight away, as the difference
between a 152 and a 601 are quite drastic (as in PITCH!!).
Lets be grown up about this, nobody takes happless passengers or kids up for
a first flight, and both pilots know what they are in for. Little white lies
and save the rules and regulations for the occasions where they make sense
and we really need them.
Congrats again, Bob, and many happy landings!
Chris Weber
601 TD 912, 18 hours and counting
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kilby, Roger" <Roger.Kilby(at)DynCorp.com> |
| Subject: | BRS or similar chute in a 601 |
Todd,
http://www.airplaneparachutes.com/
This is the web site for the BRS chute. They have a layout for the 601 which
puts the chute in the baggage
area behind the seats. There is a plastic sheet that replaces the metal
above this section.
The bridles come out of the a/c and down the fuselage sides to connections
in the front of the a/c.
This is the tricky part. You have to make fiberglass coverings for these
yourself.
I chose not to do the BRS as I feel the weight and cost outweigh the
likelyhood of a structural failure
in the 601....keep in mind this was a personal decision and not a suggestion
to anyone else.
Roger Kilby
N98RK 601HDS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fred or Sandy Hulen" <hulens61(at)birch.net> |
Speaking of the subject line, "washers". Can any of you please tell me a
source where I can get some REALLY thin washers made of Teflon, Delran,
Nylon, or something like that? I'd like to use them under the heads of #6
and #8 screws that secure wing cover strips, inspection panels, and what
ever else is held in place by screws that are tightened down on to painted
surfaces. And.... if they can be bought in colors, that would be even
better!
Fred
Snailworks North
Lackspeed Division
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | 601 Center console |
| From: | Michael R Fortunato <wizard-24(at)juno.com> |
Anyone out there have any plans for a center console they would be
willing to send me? Or do I need to custom design it depending on what
I'll be using it for? (I'm thinking the intercom and whatever else would
make sense to locate there). I'm certainly open to suggestions.
I remember seeing a nice one on the gentleman who is building an HDS in
Fallbrook, but I lost contact with him. And Jeff -- yours looks great
too! Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
Mike Fortunato
601XL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary K" <flyink(at)efortress.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Mount |
> << I'm getting to put the engine on for good and I can't anything that
documents
> how tight to make the long bolts that go through engine mount, the penny
> washers and the rubber vibration absorbers. Does anyone have any advice
how
> far to tighten these down?
I took a quick look thru AC43.13 and I was surprised not to see anything.
The Bingelis books show 40 in-lbs for the Lycoming style mounts that Stratus
uses. Maybe bring one by an A&P and verify?
Gary K.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michel Therrien <mtherr(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 601 Center console |
Hi Mike,
Here is some information about my center console.
While it does not include the radios or intercom, I
chose that location for the engine and electrical
system control switches (master, fuel pumps,
ignitions, etc), parking brake valve, heater valve,
intersom/speaker selector, fuel gauges, 12V outlets,
etc. I also positioned my fuel valves on that
console.
See below:
http://mthobby.pcperfect.com/ch601/images/Dcp01405.jpg
http://mthobby.pcperfect.com/ch601/images/inst_panel_final.JPG
http://mthobby.pcperfect.com/ch601/chfuel2.htm
Michel
--- Michael R Fortunato wrote:
> Fortunato
>
>
> Anyone out there have any plans for a center console
> they would be
> willing to send me? Or do I need to custom design it
> depending on what
> I'll be using it for? (I'm thinking the intercom and
> whatever else would
> make sense to locate there). I'm certainly open to
> suggestions.
>
> I remember seeing a nice one on the gentleman who is
> building an HDS in
> Fallbrook, but I lost contact with him. And Jeff --
> yours looks great
> too! Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
>
> Mike Fortunato
> 601XL
>
>
>
> Contributions of
> any other form
>
> latest messages.
> other List members.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/search
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
=====
----------------------------
Michel Therrien CH601-HD
http://pages.infinit.net/mthobby
http://mthobby.pcperfect.com/ch601
http://www.zenithair.com/bldrlist/profiles/mthobby
http://health.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Lyons <kxl3(at)worldnet.att.net> |
I was thinking about your wanting to use teflon or delrin washers under
screws, and wondered whether they might tend to make the screws come
loose in a high vibration environment (such as on an airplane). It seems
that such washers would have the opposite effect that a lock washer has.
Is there someone on the list with more mechanical expertise who would
like to address this? Of course, if the screws were secured to nylon
insert or similar locking nuts, there should be no problem. Right?
Ken Lyons
701
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Morelli <billvt(at)together.net> |
I used nylon washers under all of the screws that secure my instruments to
the panel (to prevent the screws from scratching the paint). So far none
have come lose in 128.9 hours of flying. Purchased the nylon washers at
Home depot.
Regards,
Bill (N812BM - HDS - Tri - Stratus - Vermont - 128.9 flight hrs. - 200
landings)
web site -> http://homepages.together.net/~billvt/
>I was thinking about your wanting to use teflon or delrin washers under
>screws, and wondered whether they might tend to make the screws come
>loose in a high vibration environment (such as on an airplane). It seems
>that such washers would have the opposite effect that a lock washer has.
>Is there someone on the list with more mechanical expertise who would
>like to address this? Of course, if the screws were secured to nylon
>insert or similar locking nuts, there should be no problem. Right?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James Brigman" <jbrigman(at)nc.rr.com> |
Fred;
I feel your pain, man. After paying good money to paint an aircraft, you
don't want fasteners goobering up the surfaces.
If you have an "Ace Hardware" anywhere near you, they carry nylon washers
and a fairly wide selection of nylon thingies (that's a technical term) of
different shapes. I've bought several items there to provide little bearing
surfaces during miscellaneous fits of "bearing arrogance", to which I fall
victim to every once in awhile. (I've seen some of this stuff at Home Depot
or Lowes too, but much less of a selection.)
JKB
> source where I can get some REALLY thin washers made of Teflon, Delran,
> Nylon, or something like that?
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Engine Mount |
In a message dated 4/30/02 11:59:22 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
zenith-list-digest(at)matronics.com writes:
<< On my Stratus, I was advised to use steel tubing to run the bolts through .
That way you can tighten down on the proper length of tube without crus hing the
rubber. Stratus furnished a vinyl tubing for that which has no r igidity...how
has that worked out for those of you who have used it? Don Walker
>>
The vinyl tubing, as supplied by Zenith in the FWF kit, does not fit inside
the rubber mounts. Besides, the vinyl tubing I received were not of equal
length. After tightening the bolts and castellated nuts just so, using
cotter pins will hold the bolt and nuts together.
Dick
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Garrou, Douglas" <dgarrou(at)hunton.com> |
| Subject: | My crazy Lindbergh adventure |
On May 20 I'll be one of seven pilots attempting to re-create Lindbergh's
flight (all 33.5 hours of it) on specially modified simulators set up by the
EAA in Oshkosh, Wisconsin, USA. I'm using the opportunity as a charitable
fund raiser, and I'm seeking pledges based on how many hours I manage to
keep the thing dirty side down. I'm flying to Paris on behalf of the
National Alliance for Autism Research (NAAR) and the Richmond-based Faison
School for Autism, and pledged donations will ultimately be split 50/50
unless donors request otherwise.
If anyone is interested making a tax-deductible pledge in support of this
crazed project, even a teeny-tiny one, please contact me off list at
dgarrou(at)hunton.com. T
Sorry for this off-topic post, but I couldn't resist hitting up like-minded
spirits.
Doug Garrou, 801 builder
p.s. Too bad I can't log this flight.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "tongaloa" <tongaloa(at)alltel.net> |
| Subject: | Tiedown points on 701 |
I'm getting closer to ordering plans.
Wonder if 701 has tiedown points as part of
plan and where they are.
Would also like to hear from anyone who
has built in taildragger format and flown re: rudder authority
at slow (taxi/takeoff) speeds.
Thanks,
-bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LEO CORBALIS" <l.corbalis(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Instrument Panel |
This is my recommendation for your instrument panel.
1. get a shrinker/strecher tool
2. strech an L to go in the back of the curved top side of the panel to form
a "U" channel when you cut out the front. Add an L to the bottom edge too.
All cleco'ed.
3. Trim and install the tank support brackets. Add an L to the panel side
and tie it into the top and bottom L's
4. Mark and cut out all the empty space in the middle and both sides of the
panel.
5. Make 3 blank panels from .063 aluminum to cover the holes. Drill screw
holes, 8-32,
for 8 screws on the top and bottom of the main panel, 3 for the side panels.
6. Install nutpaltes in the "U" channels for the screws. NOTE all rivets
must be set flush.
7. Now install the panel and top skin permenantly.
8. get a pair of nylon fuel line quick disconnects for the fuel sight gage.
I've had my panel out many times because it's easy and everything gets fixed
right and the disconnects work fine. They are hard to push together, just
get it right. ( beats the heck out of
dissambling the gage from the panel every time)
9. Now cut out your instrument holes. A fly cutter works if you have good
medical coverage and a really slow drillpress. Check the clearances near the
corners of the main panel.
10. I wish I had made the side panels removable!!!
Hope this helps someone
Leo J. Corbalis
archive
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Trimming forward skins |
Hi List,
I have to trim the forward front and top skins. Can anyone advise how much
of the side skins and the top forward skins remains forward of the firewall.
I am going to hang the engine for good this weekend and I think it will be
easier to trim those without the engine in the way. Still doable, but
easier.....
Thanks,
Steve
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Steer" <bsteer(at)gwi.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Trimming forward skins |
Is your plane a 601, Steve? If so, my plans show 70mm in front of the firewall
for the top and side skins.
Bill
[snip]
> I have to trim the forward front and top skins. Can anyone advise how much
> of the side skins and the top forward skins remains forward of the firewall.
> I am going to hang the engine for good this weekend and I think it will be
> easier to trim those without the engine in the way. Still doable, but
> easier.....
>
> Thanks,
>
> Steve
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Mar-Hyde #5111 Primer |
| From: | charles.long(at)gm.com |
05/02/2002 03:51:04 PM
I had difficulty finding this primer Mar-Hyde #5111 primer locally
also. Ended up finding a source in Louisville, KY. Unfortunately they had
a min order size of $50, so I bought 7 cans. I don't expect I'll need more
than 2 for my 601 project, so would like to sell the rest to other builders
that are interested. My cost ended up at about $10 per can including
shipping. Send me an E-mail if interested.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "michael brook" <walruss(at)optushome.com.au> |
| Subject: | Re: Tiedown points on 701 |
there is a tie down point at the end of the fuse. One thing you can do is to
put tiedown points on the main wing strut bolts on the underside. This isn't
in the plans but it is very easy to do..
mike
----- Original Message -----
From: tongaloa <tongaloa(at)alltel.net>
Subject: Zenith-List: Tiedown points on 701
>
> I'm getting closer to ordering plans.
> Wonder if 701 has tiedown points as part of
> plan and where they are.
> Would also like to hear from anyone who
> has built in taildragger format and flown re: rudder authority
> at slow (taxi/takeoff) speeds.
> Thanks,
> -bob
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Jensen <jensenm(at)gtcinternet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Trimming forward skins |
Steve, I recommend that you don't trim until you have fitted the cowling. Then
leave about 1.5 inches for attaching nut plates or Dzus fittings.
Jerry Jensen
601HDS Jab 3300
STEFREE(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Hi List,
>
> I have to trim the forward front and top skins. Can anyone advise how much
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Frisby" <marslander(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tiedown points on 701 |
I have been using a NAPA/martin Senour self etching primer for steel and
aluminum, it's about $6.5 a can gray in color, seems to work fine. I wonder
if it's same as the marhyde self etching primer?
Jim Frisby
N801ZA
>From: "michael brook" <walruss(at)optushome.com.au>
>Reply-To: zenith-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Tiedown points on 701
>Date: Fri, 3 May 2002 06:54:19 +1000
>
>
>
>there is a tie down point at the end of the fuse. One thing you can do is
>to
>put tiedown points on the main wing strut bolts on the underside. This
>isn't
>in the plans but it is very easy to do..
>
>mike
>----- Original Message -----
>From: tongaloa <tongaloa(at)alltel.net>
>To:
>Subject: Zenith-List: Tiedown points on 701
>
>
> >
> > I'm getting closer to ordering plans.
> > Wonder if 701 has tiedown points as part of
> > plan and where they are.
> > Would also like to hear from anyone who
> > has built in taildragger format and flown re: rudder authority
> > at slow (taxi/takeoff) speeds.
> > Thanks,
> > -bob
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Trimming forward skins |
In a message dated 05/02/2002 2:45:15 PM US Mountain Standard Time,
jensenm(at)gtcinternet.com writes:
> Steve, I recommend that you don't trim until you have fitted the cowling.
Hi,
I appreciate this comment, as I was wondering about that, but, how do I fit
the cowling, or know where the cowling will ultimately go if I have all of
that skin hanging out there kind of in the way?
Thanks,
Steve
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Richter" <wrichter(at)aristotle.net> |
Hi, I'm Bill and I am in the process of building the Zodiac 601 HDS. I
attended the factory workshop in Mexico MO and have completed the tail
assembly for the HDS. Now I'm working on the Wings and I thought why
not send an e-mail to inquire from those of you that have "been there"
"done that" if there is anything that you might suggest to me that would
make the assembly go even more smoothly.
As a point of information: I am going with the leading edge fuel tanks,
landing light in left wing, Nav/Strobe system, pitot tube port in left
wing.
So any information or tips that you have would be appreciated.
One question I have is; Do you think that I should put an inspection
plate in the bottom of the leading edge between # 6 & # 7A nose ribs in
order to have access to the fuel tank sending unit, etc.?
I am working on one wing at a time (space availability). I have started
on the right wing. Have the upper skin tacked and the lower skin has
been drilled and clecoed. That's where I'm at presently.
Thanks in advance for your constructive comments.
N264AP
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "The Meiste's" <meiste(at)essex1.com> |
| Subject: | Aileron question |
I have a question for the 601 HD builders/flyers out there.
I recently installed my wings, & now I'm trying to correctly install my
ailerons. I've done this as per the instructions in the manual, but I
find the outboard end of the ailerons and the HD wing tip do not align
with each other. Both my wing tips are approx 10 mm lower than the ends
of the ailerons at the trailing edge.
Is this normal? It just seems they should be in a straight line at the
tips trailing edge.
Thanks for any replies.
Kelly Meiste
601 HD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed" <orion(at)silcom.com> |
| Subject: | Insurance...again! |
Hi James,
Just to bring you up to date...after the email I sent last night...had a
reply back this morning...always seems to be confusing to me...but they said
the 15 hrs could be in the insured airplane (make and model)...can be part
of the 'fly off' period.
This confused me again as I thought how can my plane be insured while Doug
gets the 15hrs required to get insurance...so back I went with the question.
it finally transpires that the 15 hrs is the min the insurance company will
accept for Doug BEFORE carrying passengers...or training etc...another body
in the cockpit. Which threw me again as the DAR /FAA require 25/40 hrs for
the same thing. It's a whole different world in the insurance
business....no wonder I got confused.
So the upshot is...Doug and I talked about it...he is willing to burn off
the 15 hrs...(we may sneak up to Santa Ynez for a few afternoons and log the
time!! as the hourmeter doesn't work) Just thinking about that...is a hobbs
necessary for vfr flight?
Might have to check on that one.
Also talked to AOPA insurance and they are getting a couple of quotes for
me...see what they come up with in the mean time...so it looks like the fog
is lifting a bit at last.
So...what's happening at work...any news? What are your plans for the
weekend?...start on deburring and priming?...be good to have that all ready
to rivet up by Monday (the back end that is). Then the center wing...man
you have made some progress in the last few months...seems like you're
really steaming along...it's great to see. The center wing is a bit like
the tail...totally absorbing....you'll really enjoy that part too. Guess
that's what it's all about really...enjoyment and learning.
Didn't even touch my plane today...a check to do on the F27...and then spent
the whole day with an avionics guy trying to find out why the ELT remote
switch wouldn't work...finally traced it to a bad connection...some dude had
used automotive crimps and hadn't crimped them properly...what a pain to
find it...but finally successful and crimp replaced...all working fine
again...this was at 3.30pm Had thoughts about tomorrow untill the FAA
called and said they would be in at 0900 tomorrow to check on spare parts
etc...jeez...leave me alone guys...just want to work on my own plane for a
day or two..
Guess I can't complain really though.
Catch you later...hope the weather is conducive to shed work over there..
Ed
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James Brigman" <jbrigman(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Lower Rear HT Frames Too Wide... |
Hey guys;
I'm building my 601HDS lower rear fuse. I'm trying to put on the rear HT
frames, and I've encountered a problem that was briefly mentioned on the
list about a year ago, but I couldn't find the answer to the question. The
side flanges (which hold on the lower rear side skins) of the HT frames are
too wide, and want to "push out" the longerons.
I tried bending the flanges of the front HT frame inward a little bit, but
had no success on this: it's .032 material, kinda thick and doesn't lend
itself well to this.
I'm thinking about cutting OFF about an inch from the bottom end of the side
flanges on the HT frames, so they will clear the longerons. If I do this,
the remaining part of the flanges will mate perfectly with the longerons,
but I'm worried if this will decrease the strength of that area if I do so.
The blueprints lead me to believe that the vertical flanges of the rear HT
frames should be intact all the way down to the bend of the longerons.
However, those flanges are PERFECTLY in line with the longeron flanges, IF
you can get the HT frame trimmed at the bottom so it will "drop in".
Can anyone tell me if you ran into this problem and what you ultimately did
with your lower rear fuselage HT frames? I'm just about ready to do some
trimming of the HT frame side-flanges at the bottom, but fearful of the
potential for weakening the area. (maybe I'll cut the flange, but then come
behind it with a doubler?)
Experienced opinions welcome...
JKB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wayne Beattie" <wyne.beattie(at)snet.net> |
Avemco - $2375
AIG - $1137
Same coverage.
Enough said.
Wayne
N601WB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry C. McFarland" <larrymc(at)qconline.com> |
Bill,
I've recently gone thru doing wings, leading edge tanks etc, and tho I'm
a scratch builder, the inspection plates and processes
you're concerned about are described in a now 115 page journal with
pictures. It's there to provide a detailed point by point effort, mistakes
and all. Good luck on you're 601 project.
Hope it helps.
Larry C. McFarland at macsmachine.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Richter" <wrichter(at)aristotle.net>
Subject: Zenith-List: HDS Wings
>
> Hi, I'm Bill and I am in the process of building the Zodiac 601 HDS. I
> attended the factory workshop in Mexico MO and have completed the tail
> assembly for the HDS. Now I'm working on the Wings and I thought why
> not send an e-mail to inquire from those of you that have "been there"
> "done that" if there is anything that you might suggest to me that would
> make the assembly go even more smoothly.
> As a point of information: I am going with the leading edge fuel tanks,
> landing light in left wing, Nav/Strobe system, pitot tube port in left
> wing.
> So any information or tips that you have would be appreciated.
> One question I have is; Do you think that I should put an inspection
> plate in the bottom of the leading edge between # 6 & # 7A nose ribs in
> order to have access to the fuel tank sending unit, etc.?
> I am working on one wing at a time (space availability). I have started
> on the right wing. Have the upper skin tacked and the lower skin has
> been drilled and clecoed. That's where I'm at presently.
> Thanks in advance for your constructive comments.
>
> N264AP
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Phil Raker <phadr1(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron question |
Kelly,
Are you forgetting about the wash-out (twist) that's built into the
ailerons? That will make the outboard end of the aileron a bit higher than the
inboard end, at the trailing edge.
Phil Raker - N556P: HDS/Stratus; Finished wing-root fairings & hooked up 3
control cables today, need to buy some safety wire
--- The Meiste's wrote:
>
> Both my wing tips are approx 10 mm lower than the ends
> of the ailerons at the trailing edge.
>
http://health.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "patrick walsh" <pwalsh4539(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron question |
Do you mean if the inboard end of the ailerons are even that the outboard ends
are high? If so, as I recall, this is the twist for washout built into the ailerons...in
many cases built into the wing, but not on the 601. As I understand
it, this is to cause the inboard end of the wing/aileron to stall before the
outboard end. At any rate, that is the case with my
601...and she sure does fly nicely.
Patrick Walsh
----- Original Message -----
From: The Meiste's
Subject: Zenith-List: Aileron question
I have a question for the 601 HD builders/flyers out there.
I recently installed my wings, & now I'm trying to correctly install my
ailerons. I've done this as per the instructions in the manual, but I
find the outboard end of the ailerons and the HD wing tip do not align
with each other. Both my wing tips are approx 10 mm lower than the ends
of the ailerons at the trailing edge.
Is this normal? It just seems they should be in a straight line at the
tips trailing edge.
Thanks for any replies.
Kelly Meiste
601 HD
=
=
=
=
Get mor
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Darryl West (Home)" <rdwest(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Aileron question |
Did you build ailerons with the recomended wash out (twist)?
This causes the outer tip of the aileron to be higher than the inner tip, so
the wing tip only stalls after the center section, preventing wing drop at
stall.
I built my HD wings with ailerons first, then the fuselage.
I then built the trailing edge center section wing fairing (above the step)
with just the right amount of twist in it to match where the inner edge of
the aileron ended up when the outer edge was aligned with the wingtip. I
doubt this info is in the manual. Perhaps you can adjust the center
fairings?
Darryl
rdwest(at)shaw.ca
http://members.shaw.ca/rdwest/index.htm
I have a question for the 601 HD builders/flyers out there.
I recently installed my wings, & now I'm trying to correctly install my
ailerons. I've done this as per the instructions in the manual, but I
find the outboard end of the ailerons and the HD wing tip do not align
with each other. Both my wing tips are approx 10 mm lower than the ends
of the ailerons at the trailing edge.
Is this normal? It just seems they should be in a straight line at the
tips trailing edge.
Thanks for any replies.
Kelly Meiste
601 HD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "The Meiste's" <meiste(at)essex1.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron question |
> Are you forgetting about the wash-out (twist) that's built into the
> ailerons? That will make the outboard end of the aileron a bit higher
than the
> inboard end, at the trailing edge.
I was hoping that's all it was, but it would seem to me the outboard ends
would be designed to match up with one another, and the aileron twist would
just make the inboard aileron edge lower. Then just locate the wing fairing
to match up with the inboard edge of the aileron.
Your statement is probably correct, but it just looks a little odd.
Thanks,
Kelly
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell J." <rsj(at)kscable.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Lower Rear HT Frames Too Wide... |
> I'm building my 601HDS lower rear fuse. I'm trying to put on the rear HT
> frames, and I've encountered a problem that was briefly mentioned on the
> list about a year ago, but I couldn't find the answer to the question. The
> side flanges (which hold on the lower rear side skins) of the HT frames
are
> too wide, and want to "push out" the longerons.
>
> I tried bending the flanges of the front HT frame inward a little bit, but
> had no success on this: it's .032 material, kinda thick and doesn't lend
> itself well to this.
>
> JKB
++++++++++
I encountered the same problem, I had a pair of visegrip pliers with joggle
dies that I had bought when working on my 66 El-Camino.
These offset the material enough to allow it to fit between the longerons.
The visegrips with the joggle die was bought from Year One auto supply.
Russell J. / -HDS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "George Swinford" <grs-pms(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Lower Rear HT Frames Too Wide... |
Hi James:
My rearmost frame,6-F-2-3, is cut away for the lower longeron. I added "y"
shaped doublers which attach to the frame, the longeron and the diagonal
angle. The doublers are the same thickness as the tail frame and of course
are outside the skin. The doublers pick up two rivets on the frame and two
on the diagonal. It looks like it was intended to be that way.
George
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Jensen <jensenm(at)gtcinternet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Trimming forward skins |
Steve, I started with the upper cowl and slowly cut away the cowl and the
overhang a little at a time until they ended up where I was happy. Painful and
slow but better than wishing I hadn't cut so much off. Which engine are you
using?
Jerry
STEFREE(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> In a message dated 05/02/2002 2:45:15 PM US Mountain Standard Time,
> jensenm(at)gtcinternet.com writes:
>
> > Steve, I recommend that you don't trim until you have fitted the cowling.
>
> Hi,
>
> I appreciate this comment, as I was wondering about that, but, how do I fit
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | billvt <billvt(at)together.net> |
| Subject: | Re:zenith-list,your password |
--- StripMime Report -- processed MIME parts ---
multipart/alternative
text/html
audio/x-midi
application/octet-stream
--- StripMime Errors ---
A message with no text/plain section was received.
The entire body of the message was removed. Please
resend the email using plaintext formatting
---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Weston, Jim" <Jim.Weston(at)delta.com> |
This whole insurance thing with Avemco is rediculous. I just, accidentally,
let my insurance with Avemco expire two weeks ago. When I tried to renew
with them yesterday they told me that it would be more than twice as much as
before, and that it would only be liability coverage that did not include
any passenger coverage. The aircraft would also have no coverage. JUST
BASIC LIABILITY. I contacted a local underwritter who obtained insurance
with AIG. I now have more insurance than I did with Avemco for $100 less
per year. It was a blessing in disguise. I sure don't know why the EAA
advertises Avemco as an insurer of homebuilts.
Jim Weston
McDonough, Ga.
-----Original Message-----
From: Wayne Beattie [mailto:wyne.beattie(at)snet.net]
Subject: Zenith-List: Insurance
Avemco - $2375
AIG - $1137
Same coverage.
Enough said.
Wayne
N601WB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Darryl West (Home)" <rdwest(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Aileron question |
Did you build ailerons with the recomended wash out (twist)?
This causes the outer tip of the aileron to be higher than the inner tip, so
the wing tip only stalls after the center section, preventing wing drop at
stall.
I built my HD wings with ailerons first, then the fuselage.
I then built the trailing edge center section wing fairing (above the step)
with just the right amount of twist in it to match where the inner edge of
the aileron ended up when the outer edge was aligned with the wingtip. I
doubt this info is in the manual. Perhaps you can adjust the center
fairings?
Darryl
rdwest(at)shaw.ca
http://members.shaw.ca/rdwest/index.htm
I have a question for the 601 HD builders/flyers out there.
I recently installed my wings, & now I'm trying to correctly install my
ailerons. I've done this as per the instructions in the manual, but I
find the outboard end of the ailerons and the HD wing tip do not align
with each other. Both my wing tips are approx 10 mm lower than the ends
of the ailerons at the trailing edge.
Is this normal? It just seems they should be in a straight line at the
tips trailing edge.
Thanks for any replies.
Kelly Meiste
601 HD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Weber" <chrisoz(at)gmx.net> |
Hello Kelly,
due to the washout of the aileron it is not possible to align both ends. You
have to align the outer ends with the wingtip, at the centre section it
trails down by an inch. As for adjusting the fairing of the centresection
downwards to pick it up, the archives give a big NO NO to that. I did it
nevertheless on one side, and it looked decidedly wrong. The fairing is then
kinda warped, and it locks like you have drooping flaps. Don't know about
the effects on pitch (should pitch the nose down), but in any case it will
cost you airspeed. The lower the ailerons are rigged, the slower the
stallspeed, and the slower the cruise due to increased drag. And: if the
stall separation occurs on the inner tip of the aileron, the centresection
doesn't stall straight away. With the drooping fairings, you might stall the
centresection, and I don't know wether that would be very beneficial
(increased buffet on the tail, maybe reduced elevator/rudder authority?). If
you should want to go with that, speak to Chris H. first!
I tore my fairing of again, scrapped it, and went with the gap according to
logic and plans. I cruise at 85 knots with 5000rpm on the 912.
So the ailerons don't line up? It's still a good looking plane, and you'll
love it anyway!
Have fun, the last 90 % don't really last that long.
Chris Weber
601 TD 912, 22 hours and almost done with the test-period
> Subject: Zenith-List: Aileron question
>
>
> I have a question for the 601 HD builders/flyers out there.
> I recently installed my wings, & now I'm trying to correctly install my
> ailerons. I've done this as per the instructions in the manual, but I
> find the outboard end of the ailerons and the HD wing tip do not align
> with each other. Both my wing tips are approx 10 mm lower than the ends
> of the ailerons at the trailing edge.
> Is this normal? It just seems they should be in a straight line at the
> tips trailing edge.
> Thanks for any replies.
>
> Kelly Meiste
> 601 HD
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "zodiacjeff" <zodiacjeff(at)email.msn.com> |
If you're an EAA member and subscribe to EAA e-HOT LINE (vol.1, no. 60)
check out the "Question of the Week" dealing with a recently discussed
topic.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Tellet" <telletdl(at)erols.com> |
I'm getting a little concerned that I did my ailerons wrong. I thought I
followed the manual where the inboard edge is flat and even with the top of
the wing and the outboard edge is supposed to be 5 mm above the fixed wing
tip trailing edge (not 1 inch!). This is for an HD. I did end up with a
bit more twist (about 9 mm) but I made sure both were built to that distance
so there wouldn't be any inbalance.
So do you rig them so the outboard edge is up and the inboard even, or so
the outboard edge is even and the inboard "droops".
David Tellet 601 HD tail and wings done (I think)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "The Meiste's" <meiste(at)essex1.com> |
Many thanks to all for taking the time to write me on this subject, looks
like I can proceed with out any more lost sleep, and get back to building
that last 90%.
Till next time..........
Kelly
Do not achieve
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Weber" <chrisoz(at)gmx.net> |
Hello David,
I rigged mine even with the wingtips, gap inboard. Flies straight and true
and the stall, accelerated and power off, is an absolute non-event.
If CH meant the ailerons to be flush inboard, wouldn't he have changed the
wingtips? Cause with the ailerons sticking up on the wingtips it really
looks weird!
Just my 5 cents worth,
Chris Weber
601 HD-TD 912, 22 hours and carpets in cockpit and on shelf. Neat!
> I'm getting a little concerned that I did my ailerons wrong. I thought I
> followed the manual where the inboard edge is flat and even with the top
of
> the wing and the outboard edge is supposed to be 5 mm above the fixed wing
> tip trailing edge (not 1 inch!). This is for an HD. I did end up with a
> bit more twist (about 9 mm) but I made sure both were built to that
distance
> so there wouldn't be any inbalance.
>
> So do you rig them so the outboard edge is up and the inboard even, or so
> the outboard edge is even and the inboard "droops".
>
> David Tellet 601 HD tail and wings done (I think)
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Godo Barrenechea" <gbarrenechea(at)menta.net> |
| Subject: | Drilling the canopy |
My excuses if I use the list to contact Yago, but his e-mail adress is not
shown in the original message.
Yago,
I'm also building a Zodiac in Spain, in Barcelona. I'm interested in your
project since you seem to be far beyond than me on it. Could you please
e-mail me directly to gbarrenechea(at)menta.net so we can exchange some
experiences?
Cheers,
Godo Barrenechea
-----Mensaje original-----
De: owner-zenith-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server(at)matronics.com]
Enviado el: jueves, 25 de abril de 2002 19:19
Para: zenith-list(at)matronics.com
Asunto: Zenith-List: Drilling the canopy
Hi listers:
I'm just finishing the fuselage and I'm thinking on undertaking the canopy
instalation, but have no experience at all on drilling this material, and I
heard it is very critical issue to do.
Any advice?? Any explanation published on the net about it?
Thanks from Spain, Europe.
Yago
---------------------------------
Comunicacin instantnea gratis con tu gente.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Bertrand" <cgbrt(at)mondenet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: wing trailing edge |
Hi
Drill it on a straight edge and cleco as you go. It should be straight when
you rivet.
Carl.
701
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ronnie Koonce" <rlk(at)vsta.com>
Subject: Zenith-List: wing trailing edge
>
> Anyone found a sure fire way to make the trailing edges come out
> straight after rivetting?
>
>
> UMIDS FROM ADDRESS: owner-zenith-list-server(at)matronics.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Keith P. Maloney" <keith.maloney(at)attbi.com> |
After reading the post about aileron alignment and the theory that the
inboard wing stalls before the outboard wing because the outboard
aileron is twisted up, I'm confused. If memory serves me, and it may
not, when I was flying gliders about 25 years ago I was taught that the
outboard wing stalls before the inboard to make the buffeting effect
more pronounced. I don't remember my power flight instructor talking
about it at all. But it makes sense to me that if the inboard is
twisted down it acts something like a flap reducing stall speed and
increasing drag. If the outboard is twisted up how does this reduce
stall speed? It seems to run counter to my understanding of an airfoil.
Please correct me if I'm wrong as this is something I should
understand. But If my theory is correct the outboard should align with
the wing tip and the inboard should twist down.
Keith Maloney
Scratch 601HD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry C. McFarland" <larrymc(at)qconline.com> |
| Subject: | Antennas for ELT and Com |
601 builders,
I'm trying to decide where to place the antenna for the ELT and am
wondering if the radio antenna and ELT can share one. If so, does
it have to be straight, or can it be bent rearward in contradiction
to what the ELT instructions state? For the 601hds tri-gear it would
seem best on the bottom for appearances, but what of clearance
on those heavily flared landings? Would like to hear opinions
on this if possible. Thanks,
Larry C. McFarland - 601hds at macsmachine.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Matthew Mucker" <matthew(at)mucker.net> |
| Subject: | Antennas for ELT and Com |
If there's one antenna I wouldn't want on the bottom of the plane, it's the
ELT antenna.
The ELT, in my opinion, is worth sacrificing aesthetics and aerodynamics to
ensure it's mounted properly. Most likely you'll never need the thing. But
if you do, it could be the one thing that stands between you and death.
(Yes, I know, that's an extreme case, but that's what it's there for.)
I'd sacrifice a knot or two, and an ugly antenna on top o the plane, for an
opportunity to cheat death.
As for sharing an antenna with a COM radio, if the ELT starts transmitting,
all that wattage will be fed into your COM radio, most likely letting the
magic smoke out of the components inside.
-Matt
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-zenith-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-zenith-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Larry C.
> McFarland
> Sent: Saturday, May 04, 2002 5:33 PM
> To: zenith-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Zenith-List: Antennas for ELT and Com
>
>
>
>
> 601 builders,
> I'm trying to decide where to place the antenna for the ELT and am
> wondering if the radio antenna and ELT can share one. If so, does
> it have to be straight, or can it be bent rearward in contradiction
> to what the ELT instructions state? For the 601hds tri-gear it would
> seem best on the bottom for appearances, but what of clearance
> on those heavily flared landings? Would like to hear opinions
> on this if possible. Thanks,
> Larry C. McFarland - 601hds at macsmachine.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Antennas for ELT and Com |
Larry I think that the ELT antenna is tuned for max output for a very weak
transmitter. A Comm antenna is a broad band antenna designed to work over a
wide range of frequencies and probably is not optimized at any one
particular frequency.
I do know from past experience that the antenna and transmission coils on
some ELT will pick up FM stations, passively reflect these signals to your
comm antenna, over riding normal reception. We had to change ELT brands on
our SkyHawk as it would drown out the Tower 119.4 transmissions.
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
Always looking for articles for the Experimenter
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry C. McFarland" <larrymc(at)qconline.com>
Subject: Zenith-List: Antennas for ELT and Com
601 builders,
I'm trying to decide where to place the antenna for the ELT and am
wondering if the radio antenna and ELT can share one. If so, does
it have to be straight, or can it be bent rearward in contradiction
to what the ELT instructions state? For the 601hds tri-gear it would
seem best on the bottom for appearances, but what of clearance
on those heavily flared landings? Would like to hear opinions
on this if possible. Thanks,
Larry C. McFarland - 601hds at macsmachine.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Philip Polstra" <ppolstra(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Antennas for ELT and Com |
Here is a link to my plane on Zenith's site. You'll see that I have the ELT
antenna on top, between the GPS and COM antennas. My theory is that the ELT
should not be operating while the other two are on, so it doesn't have to be
as far away from the others, as if they were all being used at once.
http://www.zenithair.com/bldrlist/pm.cgi?login=ppolstra&ID=24830&action=disp
lay
----- Original Message -----
From: "Matthew Mucker" <matthew(at)mucker.net>
Subject: RE: Zenith-List: Antennas for ELT and Com
>
> If there's one antenna I wouldn't want on the bottom of the plane, it's
the
> ELT antenna.
>
> The ELT, in my opinion, is worth sacrificing aesthetics and aerodynamics
to
> ensure it's mounted properly. Most likely you'll never need the thing.
But
> if you do, it could be the one thing that stands between you and death.
> (Yes, I know, that's an extreme case, but that's what it's there for.)
>
> I'd sacrifice a knot or two, and an ugly antenna on top o the plane, for
an
> opportunity to cheat death.
>
> As for sharing an antenna with a COM radio, if the ELT starts
transmitting,
> all that wattage will be fed into your COM radio, most likely letting the
> magic smoke out of the components inside.
>
> -Matt
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-zenith-list-server(at)matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-zenith-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Larry C.
> > McFarland
> > Sent: Saturday, May 04, 2002 5:33 PM
> > To: zenith-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: Zenith-List: Antennas for ELT and Com
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > 601 builders,
> > I'm trying to decide where to place the antenna for the ELT and am
> > wondering if the radio antenna and ELT can share one. If so, does
> > it have to be straight, or can it be bent rearward in contradiction
> > to what the ELT instructions state? For the 601hds tri-gear it would
> > seem best on the bottom for appearances, but what of clearance
> > on those heavily flared landings? Would like to hear opinions
> > on this if possible. Thanks,
> > Larry C. McFarland - 601hds at macsmachine.com
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Antennas for ELT and Com |
| From: | wizard-24(at)juno.com |
> If there's one antenna I wouldn't want on the bottom of the plane,
> it's the ELT antenna.
I SECOND THAT! As someone who is charged with finding downed aircraft, I
can testify to the value of that ELT. Yes, possible that the plane can
crash upside-down....but in most cases, it doesn't happen that way.
Please put the ELT antenna on top!
Oh, and by the way, don't paint your planes green or brown (too hard to
find). And I'm only half joking on this one.
Mike Fortunato
601XL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Geoff Thistlethwaite" <geoffthis(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Corvair Engines? |
Anyone on the list building a 601 or 701 with a Corvair engine?
Geoff Thistlethwaite
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kilby, Roger" <Roger.Kilby(at)DynCorp.com> |
Keith,
On most powered aircraft the wing tip is twisted slightly down as compared
to the inboard portion
of the wing. This is called washout and serves to make the wing stall
beginning at the wing root and
progressing towards the tip as well as from the trailing edge forward.
By having the tip twisted down, the wing tip has a lower angle of attack as
compared to the wing root.
This allows the ailerons to have some authority during the stall as the part
of the wing they are on has
a lesser angle of attack due to the washout.
Roger Kilby
N98RK 601HDS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pinneo, George" <George.Pinneo(at)trw.com> |
| Subject: | Antennas for ELT and Com |
ELT should be on top to transmit up to aircraft looking for you. Comm should be
separate ; mine is an elbow, or bent antenna, on the bottom. Mostly you talk
down to towers. There's no such thing as a "heavily flared landing" in a Zodiac!
GGP
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <dix39(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine weight |
>
>
> A friend is trying to find the actual weight of an 0-200, with ALL
> accessories.
> He's seen everything from 190 lbs to 240 lbs quoted on various web
> sites.
I weighed an 0-200 I bought several months ago to use in my CH 701. The
engine had been in an EZ and the weight included everything, cowling,
exhaust, all accessories, except the vacuum pump. There was a tach sending
unit in that hole. It also had an oil separator installed, so I believe the
weight would be close to one with a vacuum pump. It was weighed on bathroom
scales, and the weight was 260 lbs.
Steve Dixon
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Mar-Hyde #5111 Primer |
| From: | charles.long(at)gm.com |
05/06/2002 12:54:59 PM
I have 3 - 19 oz cans of Mar-Hyde #5111 primer left. Great stuff for
priming steel parts, but hard to find locally. Will sell for $7 each plus
$5 shipping (this is less than I paid for it). Send me an e-mail direct or
call me at 317-242-2384. 1 or 2 cans should be all you need.
Chuck Long
50% complete on
HDS project
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Pomaski" <ndsemc(at)ktn.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine weight |
Ok, Edition 4 701 plans state 100BHP 200lbs 25" forward of the firewall.
So, what were the weight and balance sheet figures ? I'm doing a VW
2180 and would like to compare / evaluate your numbers. If anyone else
has done a VW, I would enjoy seeing those numbers.
I weighed an 0-200 ... to use in my CH 701. ... the weight included
everything, cowling, exhaust, all accessories, except the vacuum pump.
... It was weighed on bathroom scales, and the weight was 260 lbs.
Steve Dixon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michel Therrien <mtherr(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Glossy instrument panels |
I painted cabin parts this weekend, including the
instruments panel.
After running out of paint, I called my supplier who
mixed me a can with the same color I previously used.
This morning, I noticed that the surface of those
painted parts is more glossy than what I did before
(cabin walls). I called the supplier and he told me
he did not put the agent to remove the glossy
(luster?) effect in the paint. Sh.t!
Now, I'm wondering whether I should strip the paint
off (at least for the instrument panel) and re-do it
with a more dull-looking paint. The color is a very
light gray.
Anybody flying (or had flown) behind a glossy
instrument panel? With the sun reflecting into it, is
it really an inconvenience?
Thanks!
Michel
=====
----------------------------
Michel Therrien CH601-HD
http://pages.infinit.net/mthobby
http://mthobby.pcperfect.com/ch601
http://www.zenithair.com/bldrlist/profiles/mthobby
http://health.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Alan Cossitt <alan.cossitt(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Where is it ok to land a CH 701/801? |
I've done a great deal of research in this area and unfortunately the
number of places you can legally land an airplane on public land is
severely restricted by county, state and federal regulations and law. I
live in Oregon, so some of my examples are limited to this state.
Wilderness lands (exceptions in Idaho and Alaska) are off-limits. Many
areas in Alaska where recreational aircraft is currently allow may be
closed to recreational aircraft use in the future (apparently the laws
protecting aircraft landings in many back-country areas is limited to
non-recreational use (subsistence, mining, etc.)) but the government is
looking the other way. I believe there are lawsuits by environmental
groups that seek to close/enforce this "loop hole".
National Monuments are almost always off-limits.
National and State parks are almost always off-limits. The National
Park Service is moving to close many existing backcountry airstrips in
new National Parks.
Wilderness landing strips in Idaho are off-limits to helicopters.
Wilderness Study Areas are almost always regulated to be off-limits
including landing on roads/tracks where other motorized traffic is
allowed.
State and Federal Wild and Scenic Rivers Corridors are generally
off-limits, including areas where jet-boats and other motorized traffic
is allowed.
Fish and Wildlife areas, both State and Federal are usually off-limits,
including areas where off-road and on-road vehicle use is allowed.
Forest Service lands are off-limits except in specifically designated
landing strips. The Forest Service almost always closes backcountry
strips in areas where it has recently acquired land (i.e., landing
strips on the North Flathead River in Montana).
BLM land is usually open for use, but Wilderness Study Areas and other
sensitive areas on BLM land are generally regulated to not allow
landings.
In Oregon, most county and state land is off-limits.
In Oregon, all State Highways are off-limits except for emergencies,
including remote rural areas (in Nevada you can land your airplane on
State Highways where it does not impede or endanger motorists). If you
land on a highway in Oregon in an emergency, generally you will be
forced to tear your airplane apart and transport it out by trailer.
In Oregon, all ocean beaches are off-limits including areas reserved for
off-road use. The areas where on-road motorized traffic is allowed are
considered State Highways. A friend of mine landed on an ocean beach in
Oregon several times due to engine problems. He was finally able to
limp his airplane to a local airstrip where the state police caught up
with him and he was given a several thousand $$$ ticket for "Reckless
Endangerment". He flys an ultralight that lands at about 30mph,
requires about 75 feet to get off the ground and takes about 100ft to
land. I don't know how this was resolved.
Because of the shortage of legal landing areas for airplanes on public
lands many pilots are beginning to join together to lobby our lawmakers
to expand access and to protect what little access we currently have.
For more information look at www.montanapilots.org, and
www.flyidaho.org. Groups have also formed in Utah and California.
Another group has recently formed to represent all backcountry pilots in
the United States. Check the www.flyidaho.org website for more details.
-Alan Cossitt
-----Original Message-----
From: Hal Rozema [SMTP:hartist1(at)cox.net]
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Where is it ok to land a CH 701/801?
I had one party suggest asking local news helicopter pilots what the
regs are
or who to contact. Basically, you can land on any federal or state
land, or
on any individuals property with prior permission.
Hal Rozema
CH701 N701PF
<http://theplanefolks.net>
=
=
=
http://www.matronics.com/browselist/zenith-list
=
eJ8+IgQTAQaQCAAEAAAAAAABAAEAAQeQBgAIAAAA5AQAAAAAAADoAAEIgAcAGAAAAElQTS5NaWNy
b3NvZnQgTWFpbC5Ob3RlADEIAQ2ABAACAAAAAgACAAEEkAYA0AEAAAEAAAAQAAAAAwAAMAIAAAAL
AA8OAAAAAAIB/w8BAAAAUQAAAAAAAACBKx+kvqMQGZ1uAN0BD1QCAAAAAHplbml0aC1saXN0QG1h
dHJvbmljcy5jb20AU01UUAB6ZW5pdGgtbGlzdEBtYXRyb25pY3MuY29tAAAAAB4AAjABAAAABQAA
AFNNVFAAAAAAHgADMAEAAAAaAAAAemVuaXRoLWxpc3RAbWF0cm9uaWNzLmNvbQAAAAMAFQwBAAAA
AwD+DwYAAAAeAAEwAQAAABwAAAAnemVuaXRoLWxpc3RAbWF0cm9uaWNzLmNvbScAAgELMAEAAAAf
AAAAU01UUDpaRU5JVEgtTElTVEBNQVRST05JQ1MuQ09NAAADAAA5AAAAAAsAQDoBAAAAHgD2XwEA
AAAaAAAAemVuaXRoLWxpc3RAbWF0cm9uaWNzLmNvbQAAAAIB918BAAAAUQAAAAAAAACBKx+kvqMQ
GZ1uAN0BD1QCAAAAAHplbml0aC1saXN0QG1hdHJvbmljcy5jb20AU01UUAB6ZW5pdGgtbGlzdEBt
YXRyb25pY3MuY29tAAAAAAMA/V8BAAAAAwD/XwAAAAACAfYPAQAAAAQAAAAAAAACiWkBBIABADYA
AABSRTogWmVuaXRoLUxpc3Q6IFdoZXJlIGlzIGl0IG9rIHRvIGxhbmQgYSBDSCA3MDEvODAxPwAh
EAEFgAMADgAAANIHBQAGAAwAIQAYAAEAKgEBIIADAA4AAADSBwUABgALADIAMQABAFMBAQmAAQAh
AAAANUY1QTI5M0RCOEQ5MjA0MThGQkQ3RjUxQjUzQTdFREUAaAcBA5AGALAOAAAhAAAACwACAAEA
AAALACMAAAAAAAMAJgAAAAAACwApAAAAAAADAC4AAAAAAAMANgAAAAAAQAA5AGAyOOM09cEBHgBw
AAEAAAA2AAAAUkU6IFplbml0aC1MaXN0OiBXaGVyZSBpcyBpdCBvayB0byBsYW5kIGEgQ0ggNzAx
LzgwMT8AAAACAXEAAQAAABYAAAABwfU04y9X3uGtLS5HR57TogFFt2tjAAAeAB4MAQAAAAUAAABT
TVRQAAAAAB4AHwwBAAAAGQAAAGFsYW4uY29zc2l0dEB2ZXJpem9uLm5ldAAAAAADAAYQvopDSAMA
BxCoEAAAHgAIEAEAAABlAAAASVZFRE9ORUFHUkVBVERFQUxPRlJFU0VBUkNISU5USElTQVJFQUFO
RFVORk9SVFVOQVRFTFlUSEVOVU1CRVJPRlBMQUNFU1lPVUNBTkxFR0FMTFlMQU5EQU5BSVJQTEFO
RU9OUAAAAAACAQkQAQAAAG4LAABqCwAAJxcAAExaRnWPkO/5PwAKAQMB9wKkA+MCAGNowQrAc2V0
MCAHEwKDQwBQDuZwcnEyD+Z9EwqACMggOwlvMjU1SwKACoF2CJB3awuAZNo0DGBjAFALA2MAQQtg
QG5nMTAzMwumIMBJJ3ZlIGQCIBcgdGEgCcFhBUABAAdAIHhvZiAJcA+gCsAPYCDxC4AgdGgEABeA
F8EXgPEU0CB1bgIQACAaMBfgmGVseRlBFyBudQbQVwSQGFILUWMHkXkIYCDiYwORbGVnB0Aa4RXh
9xoQA5ELcHILURdhAiAb4PJ1AmBpYx1UGXEPoBcQ1wlwGuEYkXQFEGMawBoQjmIa8AWgGjB0eSwf
gPcBkBrAGeNmCYAEkBgxCXDkZ3ULYHRpAiAZgRoBsQtgdy4gFuAc0GkXEd0ZIU8ioQIgIWFvJREH
gIUYUm0a8GV4YW0LUKcHkRmhJBFtaSCSdCUwuxlTIYMuCqIKhAqAVwMQ3wSCB5AEIB1iBCAoJgAc
IIcFMCMTGSFJZGFoJTCFGfJBC2Bza2EpJoOpGGBmLSbTcyPRTQBwzxrwGaIqoyuUIHcbICahfwlw
BQAX0SMRGDEd4QUAYfsBgB9SYwhwCXACMBrhHRH+bwfgAMAa8BuAHJAJAA+gdyczLt8v43UPoBkU
FyBmxnUagCahKGFwCrEwpO8bEiOhBCARMG8awCCAC4D+Zy+YHWI2sSqjA4ExgQDQ9GstIQNyLVcp
gSblJ0KabgIgLTJ7M9Iocx6w/wCQIEAJ8BwgIWAm8AMAFgBDIWAl8HRjLikr8GLvNJAbAyTQH7Fu
B4ACMDmz/G9vFLE20BsSNmAugS5g/zFwI9MbgB7QH6EbAiahJpP9NgF1LMEgwgnwFHADYD6z9xgx
CcAIYHAEIBlQF+EPoOxlaydCMdMvCfAaURwgZRlEIj9BcCArIBzgIvUoK04yxk0CIBtgMKEmdP8H
QARgIEAw8UBhBCAsWUbf2y9jGgFTIZMKsWtIr0m87SPgVBshR5dQTJEGUhRw/0WRGXEEYBRwP5JE
xTg0JgD/PFE2sjiSOOcd8CBCQ+EZIf8XYAfgTxtKfCj9NrJTeCr1/ywrJ0IbIB7RRkAawA+QVT/z
KTVMIHVkGvAHEC2STO//IpYnJDGhWHkLgDHQW6A2stdWth5xA2BhKdAvIFA4ob8EIC50QAQEYCdQ
BRB6JyL9L+FmHuEZcjESCYBaC0wk/RnyRiI1KPJL1BwgAwAe8LZSJDEPkCAIUDCAaRdA+2bhJpJn
CfAiUhrhLFghYNdfGC10LnRqD7AtBuAX4O8jRGGfYq9aC0YEABkAGfL/KPIe0CIgLWQhYAbgGVBM
Ffdk6iaSM9B1aE9pX2FELGH/YGJrRDrRdLIXEBlgMdBxov9QU21PblIFsCAxT+cppFg98yoUGRJz
cAWQBpAe4B0T+wEAAJBnGqIjglbaI9FOw/937U0sMdNCcVKZU3hp+icAz0ZgLaEycTClY3FCQAlx
8R1UKGkuKBAhYFa9HnHtGxJOCREZAEYi4RsgdMFfZqMZEkghAZAaoClaC0L8TE0fB3HHetADoBpR
M8L/b/E98VrfW+VrZw+gAIEjAP8XES10HnGIh2e8XWs6sE1y9zEiN4ZaC0kkiE1DIQQZ478hhB8W
Se+R/x0RTBVIe8BeaEmTeT96Q4oSZQeAcv9n8XrwB5By6glwa/EusQhw33FULaGD4AOgB8B2YIAX
kP8cZxnyHGEFwB3ql02BpxdA/weRkGIHcHrQAQAYUJmxFND3FfFrxyBAc4egI+EYcBxi/x1jHnEX
kBlgl8MkaIEDA6D/mdYhUWf4HGID8JcRMaFFY/8nNBjBne01AArATXEaAWDB/QCAcAkRgfIIYAVA
INFgwe8DEASQlY+WmW8cIAORG4D/ANAbIJgfcw4YklAQIKGKEv90ZzPRTqVzq3VFa/92aSaDvwWg
AIEEgSChl0wj0UEiEP8IgWtiJbELgHi0IKGj0gOgv62ZpJkfkxgxIwAHgmQKUPsnQgnwZ7hCNkEC
YJnQLOL+SBcgQGAEIGzQL2Ew0ryh/ydCJtFGURlyHfYnUReQCQD/ezFTNy5lGxIhhKpwHtExsfxh
dZfAM7HA0ScAGQAZYP5tGeMbIb1SvCAXEKPiurf3KyAz0BnyJMXQuyE4sA+waYoDIlIFkGsmUQQg
Re+hxT7CRrC9A2Ya4CNCGiD+bGDBHtDCkkQTeNVNcQbg6T3xMzAmMGghYAlwgyPzGYHKszc1IhHG
USdRZ/C/qtEBID4UQ7EdgycxYcZA+8vmFiAwMAG+YhnxI9MXQfonBUBrOrAH4CsgB+AZU/+9UhiR
BvCwsYe8BZDCcDPh7xhhwVMrIAAgYWfwGFIc4/9Wpy10ihId5oUjHqlQgS0y/nADEDZgJnQbgLwh
PQInQvRqbxkib80RQCK+YryQfyDRngIjoQDAxkBm4bvSePsKsB2CYxwhI0QnUTZFLmH/yeInADDA
F3Hc1GOAMFkPcP8XECPRd+FQkYHSGkIAwCMC6z8zymJ34mAuBGCHU9hU/i4FsD0xGfLiYsiRZ1Ar
EfvjciPRR0O04CIw8SUh4ULbIKEZIVUBkG60Q8lRGlH9AwBht0KQYUAiQ6OCLOZV/zJDETAYoT7h
lwJSithVNBXeVQMAIJJMIyziQxsgOLD/GwPkHt9BPDEhsYoS4NMBAPcBkAMQSnwtK5EDoAhQBBA/
3oFaGvNfCpMLMB7QMzYfAUAVoAFANkUQdDE2IP4t9tIkoHvAvaIF0Clh1HE/9tNaFjZU9bELE/Xm
aS2YMTQ0AUAe0DE4z1BbDMH6c2JlEANhOgyDYj0P0EgYMQgAtAAAwCBb4FNNVFA6D3EjACBAJDFA
BaB4LhdgdF3/WhX7oAZgAjD8B0ghKwAhUWZBETADETI5IWAMADCREWAzOjURYFBN/rfcVG/8B7QA
7TFoLIEgQL5A4XFDAR7gLOAFoG3+uB8esGqw3fD8B8bQOiBa7QNETDxRBnBXgbQqoarRF0STHWRn
AEjMUDAxL/n68DE/+H/5ivU0FnXxxfwtPgaKJcD3xMHhPGEgsusGcPyZPP2uPqvrgiF1EvdMY5OR
PBBnZ/BNYivAX3P/wBNUEeWRWWfYRt4jGxKk4f8Zg/HE1jEucCdhRMGHQt3w/SPRQiuweyQhYJ0r
uPPp4f8iNdYxlAghYNYwFjUZZPdg/zewUMC7kOYBNjJ60BIiwwP/AKHWMR0RJvDyoUgwWgv8mJ/x
xAjwCSGFoAkhUEbxxOMPgN6QcDovYLA/0KkjHcaAbFUREG7xxF8tPf8knyWvJr8nzyfwJBd9MSmt
9i1OwwzqRduwAMF34UhQ//bAKQpO0DAxxoEsYTAxqmH/tdB38bGgMKGDQTWDQ7GXwPc/s2cQORFp
PeEy4ZTCKQpdDVVtp4BZ4X0wWcVgJ/+XEalQhsJEYTiB2UAUgWCB/6FyOFJABOFCKQrTsTewOvG9
yoFkPoEPwV/1P8JNBAZ/LCRKdiR/Or87zzzfKL0hsiGFoEVXPtEpCkJDAP9CIMhwBwTm4HZBnfPv
0asg/0BD2pNQwFQhFXJdog14OTntfTFQRnDqcVP9oQZhRTT/weBE8ms0bNDHEcL0a5Qx+/85X0m/
Ss9L3z2fMZnG0F2k95JQ4UcpDVBcsve1QOEDPwMETClnVU4vU1VCwFNDUklCRUDhIcXb4mNSmi8S
YO/wY4TxT6//RM5VL1Y3RiRFUikNQDxZX/dWN0HkUjIvUckpDX4QqHD/ueHHYLwiBnBdf1ZHYWMp
DfeL8K4gxFFzXTJdT1YZYXL3ZWIpDQ1TU3rVYi9WKF+//SlnT0eXZZNqD1ZGD0GnQf+ikikNMDtp
71YoFzIwdikN/zhHZaRyP1ZGSL94/3oPex9XTP987337ffSwAH9gAAADABAQAAAAAAMAERAAAAAA
AwCAEP////9AAAcwoOl/8C71wQFAAAgwoOl/8C71wQELAACACCAGAAAAAADAAAAAAAAARgAAAAAD
hQAAAAAAAAMAAoAIIAYAAAAAAMAAAAAAAABGAAAAABCFAAAAAAAAAwAFgAggBgAAAAAAwAAAAAAA
AEYAAAAAUoUAALcNAAADABiACCAGAAAAAADAAAAAAAAARgAAAAABhQAAAAAAAB4AH4AIIAYAAAAA
AMAAAAAAAABGAAAAAFSFAAABAAAABAAAADguMAALACOACCAGAAAAAADAAAAAAAAARgAAAAAOhQAA
AAAAAAMAJIAIIAYAAAAAAMAAAAAAAABGAAAAABGFAAAAAAAAAwAmgAggBgAAAAAAwAAAAAAAAEYA
AAAAGIUAAAAAAAAeADWACCAGAAAAAADAAAAAAAAARgAAAAA2hQAAAQAAAAEAAAAAAAAAHgA2gAgg
BgAAAAAAwAAAAAAAAEYAAAAAN4UAAAEAAAABAAAAAAAAAB4AN4AIIAYAAAAAAMAAAAAAAABGAAAA
ADiFAAABAAAAAQAAAAAAAAAeAD0AAQAAAAUAAABSRTogAAAAAAMADTT9NwAAKes
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Sticky Throttle Linkage |
Hi List,
I need some help or advice with my throttle linkage. After I hung my engine
this weekend I connected the Throttle cables and they were very, very sticky.
They come out of the bolt that is in the bellcrank, and then through the (I
don;t know the proper name for these, sorry) cable guides, then through a a
cable sheath, into the cable guide on the carbs and then to the pulley. The
sticky part seems to be inside the cable sheaths. Whatever the cause, the
throttle will not fully open if I just push forward on the bell crank. It
catches up and I actually have to tug down on the cable to get it to release.
Obviously, this is not a good situation.
Any suggestion or advice would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Steve
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Glossy instrument panels |
Couldn't you just do one more coat of the dull treated paint?
Chris
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michel Therrien <mtherr(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Glossy instrument panels |
Yes I could.... that's most probably what I'll do.
--- SEAL2CC(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Couldn't you just do one more coat of the dull
> treated paint?
=====
----------------------------
Michel Therrien CH601-HD
http://pages.infinit.net/mthobby
http://mthobby.pcperfect.com/ch601
http://www.zenithair.com/bldrlist/profiles/mthobby
http://health.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Philip Polstra" <ppolstra(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Sticky Throttle Linkage |
Will the engine vibrations shake it loose? Also, do you have teflon lined
sheaths? I got mine at a local bike shop.
----- Original Message -----
From: <STEFREE(at)aol.com>
Subject: Zenith-List: Sticky Throttle Linkage
>
> Hi List,
>
> I need some help or advice with my throttle linkage. After I hung my
engine
> this weekend I connected the Throttle cables and they were very, very
sticky.
> They come out of the bolt that is in the bellcrank, and then through the
(I
> don;t know the proper name for these, sorry) cable guides, then through a
a
> cable sheath, into the cable guide on the carbs and then to the pulley.
The
> sticky part seems to be inside the cable sheaths. Whatever the cause, the
> throttle will not fully open if I just push forward on the bell crank. It
> catches up and I actually have to tug down on the cable to get it to
release.
> Obviously, this is not a good situation.
>
> Any suggestion or advice would be greatly appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Steve
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Sticky Throttle Linkage |
In a message dated 05/06/2002 3:27:53 PM US Mountain Standard Time,
ppolstra(at)mindspring.com writes:
> Also, do you have teflon lined
> sheaths? I got mine at a local bike shop.
>
>
I do not, I will have to look into that. I am currently using the sheath
that used to be around the choke cable that I am no longer using. You know
that kind of wrapped around metal sheath. It seemed like it should work
fine, now I am wondering.
Thanks,
Steve
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Glossy instrument panels |
| From: | Jim Ashford <jashford(at)hawaii.rr.com> |
Michel,
Flying with a shiny surface instrument panel is poor to bad practice.
I suggest you buff your panel with 000 or 0000 steel wool which is available
in the paint section of your local hardware store, This will dull your panel
and not leave any scratch marks. If you don't like the results, spray it
with flat enamel.
Jim Ashford
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Thomas Hoffmann <thoffmann(at)hardynet.com> |
Tom & Lynn Hoffmann
Capon Springs, West Virginia
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mawood(at)zoo.uvm.edu |
I just finished rebuilding my O-200 so I stuck it on the scales and it came in
at 240lbs dry. Add 4 qt. of oil and we should see ~250 with ALL accessories
ready to fly.
Mark Wood
Assistive Technology Consultant
Vermont I-Team
Center on Disability and Community Inclusion
University of Vermont
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James Connell" <connellj(at)bigpond.net.au> |
Mark.... Does that weight include exhaust & muffler installation.?
Regards James Connell
----- Original Message -----
From: <mawood(at)zoo.uvm.edu>
Subject: Zenith-List: Re:O-200 weight
>
> I just finished rebuilding my O-200 so I stuck it on the scales and it
came in
> at 240lbs dry. Add 4 qt. of oil and we should see ~250 with ALL
accessories
> ready to fly.
>
>
> Mark Wood
> Assistive Technology Consultant
> Vermont I-Team
> Center on Disability and Community Inclusion
> University of Vermont
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Thomas Hoffmann <thoffmann(at)hardynet.com> |
Tom & Lynn Hoffmann
Capon Springs, West Virginia
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ZodiacBuilder(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 5/6/2002 7:43:23 PM Eastern Standard Time,
mawood(at)zoo.uvm.edu writes:
> I just finished rebuilding my O-200 so I stuck it on the scales and it came
> in
> at 240lbs dry. Add 4 qt. of oil and we should see ~250 with ALL accessories
>
> ready to fly.
>
Yup.....!
That's what the monster in my baby weighed in at......
John W. Tarabocchia
Web Site: http://hometown.aol.com/zodiacbuilder/Home.html
N6042T 70hrs Flown.....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Darryl West (Home)" <rdwest(at)shaw.ca> |
Agreed, but just to clarify, the washout can be achieved one of two ways:
Either rotate the nose of the wing downwards at the wingtip, or rotate the
trailing edge upwards. Zenith has done the latter (actually just twisted the
ailerons up at the outboard rear edge). Same difference, but I didn't want
to see anyone try to warp Zenair's wings :-)
Darryl
rdwest(at)shaw.ca
http://members.shaw.ca/rdwest/index.htm
Keith,
On most powered aircraft the wing tip is twisted slightly down as compared
to the inboard portion
of the wing. This is called washout and serves to make the wing stall
beginning at the wing root and
progressing towards the tip as well as from the trailing edge forward.
By having the tip twisted down, the wing tip has a lower angle of attack as
compared to the wing root.
This allows the ailerons to have some authority during the stall as the part
of the wing they are on has
a lesser angle of attack due to the washout.
Roger Kilby
N98RK 601HDS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Bockius" <bruce(at)whiteantelopesoftware.com> |
| Subject: | Sticky Throttle Linkage |
It sounds like yours is a little worse than mine, but mine was (and is)
pretty sticky. Once the engine's running though I don't notice it at
all; vibration does seem to help a lot in this case.
My cables don't have any teflon on them. I have used the spray-can
lithium grease on them, which helped some also.
Also I removed the springs on the carbs, which meant I could loosen the
clamp on the torque tube.
-Bruce/601HD/TDO/Stratus/304 hrs
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-zenith-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-zenith-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> STEFREE(at)aol.com
> Sent: Monday, May 06, 2002 2:34 PM
> To: zenith-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Zenith-List: Sticky Throttle Linkage
>
>
>
> Hi List,
>
> I need some help or advice with my throttle linkage. After I
> hung my engine
> this weekend I connected the Throttle cables and they were
> very, very sticky.
> They come out of the bolt that is in the bellcrank, and then
> through the (I
> don;t know the proper name for these, sorry) cable guides,
> then through a a
> cable sheath, into the cable guide on the carbs and then to
> the pulley. The
> sticky part seems to be inside the cable sheaths. Whatever
> the cause, the
> throttle will not fully open if I just push forward on the
> bell crank. It
> catches up and I actually have to tug down on the cable to
> get it to release.
> Obviously, this is not a good situation.
>
> Any suggestion or advice would be greatly appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Steve
>
>
> ===========
> ===========
> ===========
> http://www.matronics.com/browselist/zenith-> list
> Search Engine: http://www.matronics.com/search
>
> ===========
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Alberti" <daberti(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Sticky Throttle Linkage |
Those cable types are very fussy about making small or multiple radius
bends. Also the inside wire diameter is so small that it is prone to
kinking and then you may as well throw them away. They are fine for non
essential linkage and lawn mowers.
Dave
> > Also, do you have teflon lined
> > sheaths? I got mine at a local bike shop.
> >
> >
>
> I do not, I will have to look into that. I am currently using the sheath
> that used to be around the choke cable that I am no longer using. You
know
> that kind of wrapped around metal sheath. It seemed like it should work
> fine, now I am wondering.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Steve
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wayne Beattie" <wyne.beattie(at)snet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Sticky Throttle Linkage |
I switched to bicycle brake cable with teflon internal surface. Any good
bike shop has it by the roll. $.75 per foot if I remember correctly. Very
good investment.
Make cable equal length for each carb and don't over constrain it. I
discovered that a bit of roughness when throttling back in the pattern
caused by a sticky cable. Very smooth operation now.
N601WB is back in the air again after a winter of tinkering. Removed the
analog engine instruments and installed an EIS system. Moved the Zodie into
the 90's! Great unit. Now I'm going to get fanatical about setting up the
carbs for equal EGT. Also went to screws securing the skin over the fuel
tank. Maybe this will finally convince the tank to remain leak free!
Wayne
-----Original Message-----
From: STEFREE(at)aol.com <STEFREE(at)aol.com>
Date: Monday, May 06, 2002 4:48 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Sticky Throttle Linkage
>
>Hi List,
>
>I need some help or advice with my throttle linkage. After I hung my
engine
>this weekend I connected the Throttle cables and they were very, very
sticky.
> They come out of the bolt that is in the bellcrank, and then through the
(I
>don;t know the proper name for these, sorry) cable guides, then through a a
>cable sheath, into the cable guide on the carbs and then to the pulley.
The
>sticky part seems to be inside the cable sheaths. Whatever the cause, the
>throttle will not fully open if I just push forward on the bell crank. It
>catches up and I actually have to tug down on the cable to get it to
release.
> Obviously, this is not a good situation.
>
>Any suggestion or advice would be greatly appreciated.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Steve
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Corvair Engines? |
| From: | Greg P Jannakos <gpjann(at)juno.com> |
Greg Jannakos,
Grayson, Ga.
Building a Zodiac 601 HDS to be powered with a Corvair 164CI.
Just started on the engine conversion.
Aircraft about the 69% area.
writes:
>
>
> Anyone on the list building a 601 or 701 with a Corvair engine?
>
> Geoff Thistlethwaite
>
>
>
>
> messages.
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Sticky Throttle Linkage |
In a message dated 5/6/02 7:23:58 PM US Mountain Standard Time,
wyne.beattie(at)snet.net writes:
> Make cable equal length for each carb and don't over constrain it. I
> discovered that a bit of roughness when throttling back in the pattern
> caused by a sticky cable.
I thought us this, but the distance betweeen the right and left carbs and the
bellcrank is not the same. Do I artificially lenghthen the shorter of the 2
cables so they end up being the same length? I was concerned that if I make
the shorter cable the same length as the longer one that at some point it
will star toc curl back or around and cause contraint.
Thanks for you advice and input.
Steve
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <dix39(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine weight |
----- Original Message -----
From: <dix39(at)charter.net>
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Engine weight
>
>
> >
> >
> > A friend is trying to find the actual weight of an 0-200, with ALL
> > accessories.
> > He's seen everything from 190 lbs to 240 lbs quoted on various web
> > sites.
>
> I weighed an 0-200 I bought several months ago to use in my CH 701. The
> engine had been in an EZ and the weight included everything, -UH, MAKE
THAT BAFFLING INSTEAD OF- cowling,
> exhaust, all accessories, except the vacuum pump. There was a tach
sending
> unit in that hole. It also had an oil separator installed, so I believe
the
> weight would be close to one with a vacuum pump. It was weighed on
bathroom
> scales, and the weight was 260 lbs.
>
> Steve Dixon
>
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Don Gordon" <dojo(at)polymembranepipe.com.au> |
keith
to reduce lift you require to decrease the angle of attack therefor the wing
tip has less angle of attack than the root
meaning the wing tip is twisted slightly up not down.
sorry.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kilby, Roger" <Roger.Kilby(at)DynCorp.com>
Subject: Zenith-List: Ailerons...
>
>
> Keith,
>
> On most powered aircraft the wing tip is twisted slightly down as compared
> to the inboard portion
> of the wing. This is called washout and serves to make the wing stall
> beginning at the wing root and
> progressing towards the tip as well as from the trailing edge forward.
> By having the tip twisted down, the wing tip has a lower angle of attack
as
> compared to the wing root.
> This allows the ailerons to have some authority during the stall as the
part
> of the wing they are on has
> a lesser angle of attack due to the washout.
>
> Roger Kilby
> N98RK 601HDS
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michel Therrien <mtherr(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Glossy instrument panels |
I asked my paint supplier about buffing the surface. I
noticed, between two coats, that it had the effect you
mentioned and it was nice enough. He advised me that
the paint surface won't be as resistant or something
if I do that. He highly recommended me to repaint the
part if I want the dull finish (and of course, he's
gonna "dull" the rest of my paint can for free).
--- Jim Ashford wrote:
>
>
> Michel,
>
> Flying with a shiny surface instrument panel is poor
> to bad practice.
>
> I suggest you buff your panel with 000 or 0000 steel
> wool which is available
> in the paint section of your local hardware store,
> This will dull your panel
> and not leave any scratch marks. If you don't like
> the results, spray it
> with flat enamel.
>
> Jim Ashford
=====
----------------------------
Michel Therrien CH601-HD
http://pages.infinit.net/mthobby
http://mthobby.pcperfect.com/ch601
http://www.zenithair.com/bldrlist/profiles/mthobby
http://health.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mawood(at)zoo.uvm.edu |
As John T said "Yup"
That was set up and ready to start with carb, exhaust & muffler installation,
air box for carb heat,vacuum pump, but no external baffling for cooling.
Mark
Mark.... Does that weight include exhaust & muffler installation.?
Regards James Connell
----- Original Message -----
> I just finished rebuilding my O-200 so I stuck it on the scales and it
>came in at 240lbs dry. Add 4 qt. of oil and we should see ~250 with ALL
>accessories ready to fly.
>
>
> Mark Wood
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
But the oil is generally listed separately on a weight and balance
----- Original Message -----
From: <mawood(at)zoo.uvm.edu>
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Re:O-200 weight
As John T said "Yup"
That was set up and ready to start with carb, exhaust & muffler
installation,
air box for carb heat,vacuum pump, but no external baffling for cooling.
Mark
Mark.... Does that weight include exhaust & muffler installation.?
Regards James Connell
----- Original Message -----
> I just finished rebuilding my O-200 so I stuck it on the scales and it
>came in at 240lbs dry. Add 4 qt. of oil and we should see ~250 with ALL
>accessories ready to fly.
>
>
> Mark Wood
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | ?? for Stratus - EIS flyers |
Hi List,
I'm hooking up all of my engine stuff and using a Stratus EA-81 and EIS
engine monitoring system. MY question is in regards to the the oil temp
sending unit. It appears that the oil temp sender supplied by Stratus screws
in the welded on bolt on the bottom rear side of the oil pan. This sensor
bottoms out though and does not protude into the oil pan itself. On the oil
temp senders I received from EIS they would obviusly protude into the tank.
Can anyone give advice as to if they used the Stratus supplied sensor or if
they punched through the material in that area and used the EIS supplied
sensor?
I hate not knowing.....
Thanks for your help.....
Steve Freeman
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <dix39(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine weight |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Charles Pomaski" <ndsemc(at)ktn.net>
I pl> Ok, Edition 4 701 plans state 100BHP 200lbs 25" forward of the
firewall.
> So, what were the weight and balance sheet figures ? I'm doing a VW
> 2180 and would like to compare / evaluate your numbers. If anyone else
> has done a VW, I would enjoy seeing those numbers.
>
>
> I weighed an 0-200 ... to use in my CH 701. ... the weight included
> everything, baffling, exhaust, all accessories, except the vacuum pump.
> ... It was weighed on bathroom scales, and the weight was 260 lbs.
I pan to use the 0-200 with nothing on the accessory case but the mags.
This should put the engine at around 220, 225 lbs. Also, no header tank. I
have been e-mailing another 701/0-200 builder who is probably flying now.
The last I heard he was very happy with the W/B numbers, and taxi runs. I
think, in planning to use a VW derivative on a 701, a redrive should
seriously be considered to get a lower prop speed. I have a Hapi 75 Magnum
in my garage that was originally planned to go on the my 701, but it turns
too fast to use a prop diameter that would be very efficient. I considered
using a redrive on it, but some of the modifications Hapi made in the
conversion, notably the tapered hub and front seal, were not compatible and
would require crankshaft and possibly crankcase replacement. Also, I
learned that VW derivatives are not noted for having superior cooling at
higher power settings.
Steve Dixon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary K" <flyink(at)efortress.com> |
| Subject: | Re: ?? for Stratus - EIS flyers |
That's interesting, my oil temp sensor goes right thru the oilpan fitting
and oil pan into the oil. Maybe they changed the design? Actually sounds
better, no way for oil to leak and no way for broken sensor parts to get
into oil pump (I heard of one case of that happening on a homebuilt subaru).
Assuming the sensor against the pan would be close enough to actual oil
temp, not sure about that but it might be.
Either way, you need to make sure the EIS sensor has the same resistance
curve as the Stratus supplied VDO sender. The VDO sender I got is a 150degC
that goes from about 320 ohms to 20 ohms at 150degC which I'm guessing is
the "U.S. ohm range" verses the "VDO ohm range". You could probably hook it
up and do a freezing and boiling water check to see if it works.
Gary K.
----- Original Message -----
From: <STEFREE(at)aol.com>
Subject: Zenith-List: ?? for Stratus - EIS flyers
>
> Hi List,
>
> I'm hooking up all of my engine stuff and using a Stratus EA-81 and EIS
> engine monitoring system. MY question is in regards to the the oil temp
> sending unit. It appears that the oil temp sender supplied by Stratus
screws
> in the welded on bolt on the bottom rear side of the oil pan. This sensor
> bottoms out though and does not protude into the oil pan itself. On the
oil
> temp senders I received from EIS they would obviusly protude into the
tank.
>
> Can anyone give advice as to if they used the Stratus supplied sensor or
if
> they punched through the material in that area and used the EIS supplied
> sensor?
>
> I hate not knowing.....
>
> Thanks for your help.....
>
> Steve Freeman
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | What's up with Stratus? |
Hi,
Does anyone know what is up with Stratus? Are they operating as a "real"
business or is this a sideline to Mykal now?
The reason I ask is I called over there a little while ago and I got an
answering machine that says (paraphrase) "I'm working days now, so be sure to
leave a phone number where I can reach you in the evenings, or on Saturday."
This concerns me from a support end issue. Does anyone else have any
feedback from Mykal?
Thanks,
Steve Freeman
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Don Walker" <dwalk3dw(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: What's up with Stratus? |
Last week my upper starboard engine mount bracket was found cracked at the
rear of the tab which connects to the head...about 1 1/4 inches down the
plate. I e-mailed Mykal. He ressponded the next day and mailed me a new
bracket which I got in four days. Pics available. He said this is the first
such incident with the brackets. I was satisfied with his response. Don
Walker HDS 214 hours.
>From: STEFREE(at)aol.com
>Reply-To: zenith-list(at)matronics.com
>To: zenith-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Zenith-List: What's up with Stratus?
>Date: Tue, 7 May 2002 13:21:24 EDT
>
>
>Hi,
>
>Does anyone know what is up with Stratus? Are they operating as a "real"
>business or is this a sideline to Mykal now?
>
>The reason I ask is I called over there a little while ago and I got an
>answering machine that says (paraphrase) "I'm working days now, so be sure
>to
>leave a phone number where I can reach you in the evenings, or on
>Saturday."
>
>This concerns me from a support end issue. Does anyone else have any
>feedback from Mykal?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Steve Freeman
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ihab A.B. Awad" <iawad(at)scimagix.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Where is it ok to land a CH 701/801? |
Hi Alan & all,
Alan Cossitt wrote:
> I've done a great deal of research in this area and unfortunately the
> number of places you can legally land an airplane on public land is
> severely restricted by ... law. ... Because of the shortage of legal
> landing areas for airplanes on public lands many pilots are beginning
> to join together to lobby ....
First of all, thank you for the very complete (if discouraging) reply.
Now, this sorta puts me at odds with myself....
I guess I'm at least as much of an environmentalist as your average
person. At one point in my life, I believed that we should not use cars
at all; as a result, I exclusively walked, bused or biked through many
bitter Minnesota winters. (This isn't counting even more Minnesota
winters during which I did the same but out of necessity, because I was
a poor student and couldn't afford a car.) I have since then come to be
more mainstream (I drive a Toyota), but I still fully respect those who
choose to opt out of our gasoline-centric life.
That said, if one is to allow oneself the use of a Subaru wagon to get
to the wilderness, then, *on the face of it*, one should also be okay
with a STOL CH 801 which uses (literally!) the same engine. I'd wager
that the CH 801 might save some gas by taking a more direct route;
furthermore, it doesn't require a road to be built, and doesn't kill any
deer along the way.
Are there differences between aircraft, and can the regulations be set
up to take advantage of these (or, can aircraft be built to satisfy
valid concerns that the public may have)? Would a landing strip close to
a parking lot in a national park necessarily need to allow *all*
aircraft, or could aircraft be restricted based on noise level? Can a
piston aircraft engine be effectively muffled, even if at the expense of
some power or weight? Is this retrofittable to existing traditional
designs (can someone "hush-kit" a C-172 and thereby gain admittance to
more quiet areas)?
I guess it's not easy to have a hobby. :(
Thanks again Alan, and peace to all,
Ihab
--
Ihab A.B. Awad
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Philip Polstra" <ppolstra(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Sticky Throttle Linkage |
> I do not, I will have to look into that. I am currently using the sheath
> that used to be around the choke cable that I am no longer using. You
know
> that kind of wrapped around metal sheath. It seemed like it should work
> fine, now I am wondering.
>
I didn't use that, even for the choke cables. I didn't like the potential
for all that friction, so I used the teflon lined stuff for the choke as
well.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Weston, Jim" <Jim.Weston(at)delta.com> |
| Subject: | ?? for Stratus - EIS flyers |
The oil temp sensor on my Stratus is the same. It bottoms up against the
oil pan. When I asked Reiner (I have one of the engines from before Mykal
buying the company) about it, he said that this works fine and that he had
found that the oil temp is actually about 5-10 degrees higher than the guage
shows. He also said that the temp limits mentioned in his manual were set
up around my type of installation (i.e. you don't have to compensate, just
read the guage).
Jim Weston
McDonough, Ga.
-----Original Message-----
From: STEFREE(at)aol.com [mailto:STEFREE(at)aol.com]
Subject: Zenith-List: ?? for Stratus - EIS flyers
Hi List,
I'm hooking up all of my engine stuff and using a Stratus EA-81 and EIS
engine monitoring system. MY question is in regards to the the oil temp
sending unit. It appears that the oil temp sender supplied by Stratus
screws
in the welded on bolt on the bottom rear side of the oil pan. This sensor
bottoms out though and does not protude into the oil pan itself. On the oil
temp senders I received from EIS they would obviusly protude into the tank.
Can anyone give advice as to if they used the Stratus supplied sensor or if
they punched through the material in that area and used the EIS supplied
sensor?
I hate not knowing.....
Thanks for your help.....
Steve Freeman
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: ?? for Stratus - EIS flyers |
In a message dated 05/07/2002 1:59:45 PM US Mountain Standard Time,
Jim.Weston(at)delta.com writes:
> He also said that the temp limits mentioned in his manual were set
>
Do you have the Rocky Mountain EIS installed in your cockpit?
Thanks,
Steve
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bryan Martin <bryanmmartin(at)comcast.net> |
Trailing edge up, leading edge down or both, whatever it takes to get less
angle of attack at the tip.
--
Bryan Martin
>
> keith
> to reduce lift you require to decrease the angle of attack therefor the wing
> tip has less angle of attack than the root
> meaning the wing tip is twisted slightly up not down.
> sorry.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Kilby, Roger" <Roger.Kilby(at)DynCorp.com>
> To:
> Subject: Zenith-List: Ailerons...
>
>
>
>>
>>
>> Keith,
>>
>> On most powered aircraft the wing tip is twisted slightly down as compared
>> to the inboard portion
>> of the wing. This is called washout and serves to make the wing stall
>> beginning at the wing root and
>> progressing towards the tip as well as from the trailing edge forward.
>> By having the tip twisted down, the wing tip has a lower angle of attack
> as
>> compared to the wing root.
>> This allows the ailerons to have some authority during the stall as the
> part
>> of the wing they are on has
>> a lesser angle of attack due to the washout.
>>
>> Roger Kilby
>> N98RK 601HDS
>>
>>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Alan Cossitt <alan.cossitt(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Where is it ok to land a CH 701/801? |
Hi Ihab & list,
I am also an environmentalist and had the same debate about how
airplanes affect the environment. The conclusion I came to is that
airplanes are the most environmentally friendly way travel that we have
available. The reasons I came up with are the same as you have listed.
I don't think most people think about how much damage a road does to the
environment.
The main problem is that many land-use agencies just don't want to deal
with airplanes and, in the best tradition of bureaucracies everywhere,
will think of a hundred reasons to say no. I read the congressional
testimony of the BLM, Forest Service, and Park Service against keeping
backcountry airstrips. Most of the reasons they came up were ludicrous.
A couple of examples: Land Use agencies that allow inexperienced or
intoxicated rafters to run difficult and dangerous river rapids and
allow people to free climb cliffs claim that airplanes use of
backcountry strips is so dangerous to pilots that backcountry airstrips
must be closed (and the favorite way to close a backcountry airstrip is
to dig a deep ditch across it, possibly injuring or killing a pilot who
uses the strip for an emergency landing). Land Use agencies that allow
heavy cattle grazing (the most ecologically damaging use of western
grasslands and a major reason for the spread noxious weeds) claim that
airplanes will cause environmental disaster because they will cause the
spread of noxious weeds from airstrip to airstrip (even though it would
be quite easy to control weeds at a backcountry airstrip), etc., etc.,
etc.
The best and only solution is for pilots (even pilots who don't normally
use backcountry airstrips) to become politically active and protect and
lobby for reasonable aircraft access to our public lands. The battle is
far from over and even more restrictive regulations are being considered
(flight restrictions such as flight corridors or TFRs around and over
wilderness and national parks, for example). Check out www.flyidaho.org
and www.montanapilots.org for more information about how to join and
help.
-Alan Cossitt
-----Original Message-----
From: Ihab A.B. Awad [SMTP:iawad(at)scimagix.com]
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Where is it ok to land a CH 701/801?
Hi Alan & all,
Alan Cossitt wrote:
> I've done a great deal of research in this area and unfortunately the
> number of places you can legally land an airplane on public land is
> severely restricted by ... law. ... Because of the shortage of legal
> landing areas for airplanes on public lands many pilots are beginning
> to join together to lobby ....
First of all, thank you for the very complete (if discouraging) reply.
Now, this sorta puts me at odds with myself....
I guess I'm at least as much of an environmentalist as your average
person. At one point in my life, I believed that we should not use cars
at all; as a result, I exclusively walked, bused or biked through many
bitter Minnesota winters. (This isn't counting even more Minnesota
winters during which I did the same but out of necessity, because I was
a poor student and couldn't afford a car.) I have since then come to be
more mainstream (I drive a Toyota), but I still fully respect those who
choose to opt out of our gasoline-centric life.
That said, if one is to allow oneself the use of a Subaru wagon to get
to the wilderness, then, *on the face of it*, one should also be okay
with a STOL CH 801 which uses (literally!) the same engine. I'd wager
that the CH 801 might save some gas by taking a more direct route;
furthermore, it doesn't require a road to be built, and doesn't kill any
deer along the way.
Are there differences between aircraft, and can the regulations be set
up to take advantage of these (or, can aircraft be built to satisfy
valid concerns that the public may have)? Would a landing strip close to
a parking lot in a national park necessarily need to allow *all*
aircraft, or could aircraft be restricted based on noise level? Can a
piston aircraft engine be effectively muffled, even if at the expense of
some power or weight? Is this retrofittable to existing traditional
designs (can someone "hush-kit" a C-172 and thereby gain admittance to
more quiet areas)?
I guess it's not easy to have a hobby. :(
Thanks again Alan, and peace to all,
Ihab
--
Ihab A.B. Awad
=
=
=
http://www.matronics.com/browselist/zenith-list
=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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Gower <ggower_99(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine weight |
Hi Steve,
We are going to beguin building a 701, now is on the
border ready to be here by the end of the week...
Well, back to idea...
I dont think that the VW engine in the 701 is a good
idea, is like installing a 3 cil Geo in a Hummer (just
an example of little engine in heavy vehicle, Geo's
are great engines).
The flying "envelope" you will be in your 701 needs
more peek power that the VW engine could give you all
the time, the heads will not resist the "use and
abuse".
To get more info you can join the VW conversion list,
I can lead you to it if interested, I am subscribed
there for years.
The Corvair will be a much better choice, if the
weight is OK. (I have no experience in the 701 yet).
Saludos
Gary Gower
--- dix39(at)charter.net wrote:
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Charles Pomaski" <ndsemc(at)ktn.net>
>
> I pl> Ok, Edition 4 701 plans state 100BHP 200lbs
> 25" forward of the
> firewall.
> > So, what were the weight and balance sheet
> figures ? I'm doing a VW
> > 2180 and would like to compare / evaluate your
> numbers. If anyone else
> > has done a VW, I would enjoy seeing those numbers.
> >
> >
> > I weighed an 0-200 ... to use in my CH 701. ...
> the weight included
> > everything, baffling, exhaust, all accessories,
> except the vacuum pump.
> > ... It was weighed on bathroom scales, and the
> weight was 260 lbs.
>
>
> I pan to use the 0-200 with nothing on the accessory
> case but the mags.
> This should put the engine at around 220, 225 lbs.
> Also, no header tank. I
> have been e-mailing another 701/0-200 builder who is
> probably flying now.
> The last I heard he was very happy with the W/B
> numbers, and taxi runs. I
> think, in planning to use a VW derivative on a 701,
> a redrive should
> seriously be considered to get a lower prop speed.
> I have a Hapi 75 Magnum
> in my garage that was originally planned to go on
> the my 701, but it turns
> too fast to use a prop diameter that would be very
> efficient. I considered
> using a redrive on it, but some of the modifications
> Hapi made in the
> conversion, notably the tapered hub and front seal,
> were not compatible and
> would require crankshaft and possibly crankcase
> replacement. Also, I
> learned that VW derivatives are not noted for having
> superior cooling at
> higher power settings.
>
> Steve Dixon
>
>
http://health.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brent Battles <brentbattles(at)pipeline.com> |
| Subject: | Setting Carbs for Equal EGT (was Sticky Throttle Linkage) |
>From: "Wayne Beattie" <wyne.beattie(at)snet.net>
>Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Sticky Throttle Linkage
>Now I'm going to get fanatical about setting up the
>carbs for equal EGT.
My two cents worth: I don't know as a fact but would strongly suggest that
there is enough discrepancy in distance between the sources of heat exiting
either exhaust stack to account for considerable difference in observed EGT
even if probes are located at precicely the same distance from the engine
exhaust ports. (In opposed-cylinder flat engines the cylinders must be
staggered, yet the exhaust stacks exit the block exactly adjacent to
eachother.) I'd suspect the best one could do using EGT would be to
monitor changes from initial readings obtained with carbs synchronized
using engine manufacturer's methods (mechanical & differential pressure
gauge settings).
Regards,
Brent Battles
601HD Rotax 912
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Tanner" <vk3auu(at)vic.australis.com.au> |
| Subject: | Re: Setting Carbs for Equal EGT (was Sticky Throttle Linkage) |
I have 4 EGT probes on my 912 and sometimes I feel that I would have less
angst if I had none and just relied on what the plugs look like to adjust
the micture sttings as I used to do with a 503.
Having said that, I do still have an unresolved problem with an inlet valve
which doesn't seem to seat properly, resulting in a low EGT reading.
David Tanner
CH701
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Tanner" <vk3auu(at)vic.australis.com.au> |
| Subject: | Re: ?? for Stratus - EIS flyers |
You should talk to Jabiru about the length of oil temp probes. The early
models had short probes which gave incorrectly low readings of temperature,
giving operators the impression that an oil cooler was not needed. This has
since been rectified.
David Tanner
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Weston, Jim" <Jim.Weston(at)delta.com> |
| Subject: | ?? for Stratus - EIS flyers |
No, just the standard VDO gauges provided by Zenith with their firewall
forward package.
Jim
-----Original Message-----
From: STEFREE(at)aol.com [mailto:STEFREE(at)aol.com]
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: ?? for Stratus - EIS flyers
In a message dated 05/07/2002 1:59:45 PM US Mountain Standard Time,
Jim.Weston(at)delta.com writes:
> He also said that the temp limits mentioned in his manual were set
>
Do you have the Rocky Mountain EIS installed in your cockpit?
Thanks,
Steve
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dale Ward" <adwsail(at)bigfoot.com> |
| Subject: | CH-601 flyability |
I'm currently researching various homebuilt aircraft and have almost
certainly decided to go with the CH-601 XL but I can't find a needed
piece of information. The RV-6 was another contender until I came
across a series of articles pointing to a real problem with the 23012
airfoil used in the RV-6. What airfoil does the 601 use? HD? XL?
Also, is there ANY negative issues concerning the flying
characteristics of the 601 series? I am not looking for generic
information but rather verifiable, objective opinions. All aircraft have
their "quirks" but I can't find anything on the 601 series. Any help is
appreciated.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Doug Waer <dwaer(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: CH-601 flyability |
The HD/HDS use a NACA 65-018 airfoil...Just so happens to be the same foil used
for Jack Northrup's flying wing if I remember right. The XL model uses a
modified NACA 23-018 (Riblett).
Doug
--- Dale Ward wrote:
>
> I'm currently researching various homebuilt aircraft and have almost
> certainly decided to go with the CH-601 XL but I can't find a needed
> piece of information. The RV-6 was another contender until I came
> across a series of articles pointing to a real problem with the 23012
> airfoil used in the RV-6. What airfoil does the 601 use? HD? XL?
=====
Douglas Waer :: Boeing Helicopter Systems :: Mesa, AZ :: 85215
http://home.earthlink.net/~dwaer/flying.html
http://health.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Todd Osborne <todd(at)toddtown.com> |
| Subject: | Elevator Trim Tab Instructions |
Where are the instructions for the 601 XL recessed elevator trim tab? I see
the drawings in the plans book but nothing in the manual describing the
process. Should I just go from plans, or am I missing a page in the manual?
Thanks,
Todd
Todd Osborne
Internet E-Mail: todd(at)toddtown.com
AOL Messenger: toddosborn
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Elevator Trim Tab Instructions |
I did mine just from plans and that's all that came with mine. It all comes
together..
Chris
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Elevator Trim Tab Instructions |
| From: | Michael R Fortunato <wizard-24(at)juno.com> |
Todd,
Go to the ZAC builders area of their web site, and under the section for
the HDS model, there's a builder's manual for the recessed elevator trim.
Should be the same trim for all models since the tails are all the same.
Mike Fortunato
601XL
writes:
>
> Where are the instructions for the 601 XL recessed elevator trim
> tab? I see the drawings in the plans book but nothing in the manual
describing
> the process. Should I just go from plans, or am I missing a page in
the
> manual?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dale Ward" <adwsail(at)bigfoot.com> |
| Subject: | Re: CH-601 flyability |
On 8 May 2002, at 7:11, Doug Waer wrote:
>
> The HD/HDS use a NACA 65-018 airfoil...Just so happens to be the same foil used
> for Jack Northrup's flying wing if I remember right. The XL model uses a
> modified NACA 23-018 (Riblett).
>
> Doug
Thanks Doug, that helps my research tremendously.
Dale Ward
WB4LIP
Wooden Boat Cold Molding and Restoration
Marine Electronic Systems Design
adwsail(at)bigfoot.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Todd Osborne <todd(at)toddtown.com> |
| Subject: | Filling scratches and minor misfits |
Previously I asked a similar question about Bondo and the overwhelming
response was NO, Don't do it. I understand why. As I am starting to
complete more and more parts however, I am noticing small area's that could
benefit from slight touch-ups before painting. Things like scratches that
are too deep to sand out and small areas (horizontal stabilizer tips that
don't quite touch the front of the skin) that have slight gaps. What could
be used to fix these minor imperfections to make the final paint look
nicer? I was thinking maybe fiberglass resin, maybe using small amounts of
fiberglass cloth or hair, etc. Even plastic glue for the real small area's.
Is there a good material/method to fill these small blemishes so that the
final paint will look good, not add too much weight, and not crack or break
from vibration?
Todd Osborne
Internet E-Mail: todd(at)toddtown.com
AOL Messenger: toddosborn
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Philip Polstra" <ppolstra(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Filling scratches and minor misfits |
Get some stuff called Polly Fill from Aircraft Spruce. It is very light,
and comes in two parts that have to be mixed. I used it on the bumps on my
cowling, and intend to use it for gaps on the wing tips, and some small
dents before I paint my plane.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Todd Osborne" <todd(at)toddtown.com>
Subject: Zenith-List: Filling scratches and minor misfits
>
> Previously I asked a similar question about Bondo and the overwhelming
> response was NO, Don't do it. I understand why. As I am starting to
> complete more and more parts however, I am noticing small area's that
could
> benefit from slight touch-ups before painting. Things like scratches that
> are too deep to sand out and small areas (horizontal stabilizer tips that
> don't quite touch the front of the skin) that have slight gaps. What could
> be used to fix these minor imperfections to make the final paint look
> nicer? I was thinking maybe fiberglass resin, maybe using small amounts of
> fiberglass cloth or hair, etc. Even plastic glue for the real small
area's.
> Is there a good material/method to fill these small blemishes so that the
> final paint will look good, not add too much weight, and not crack or
break
> from vibration?
>
> Todd Osborne
> Internet E-Mail: todd(at)toddtown.com
> AOL Messenger: toddosborn
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Morgan Wadsworth" <mwadsworth(at)factory53.com> |
Hi List,
About a month and a half ago I replied to an email and stated that I plan to
build the CH640 and I plan to power it with a converted Mazda rotary, and
while many of you supported and considered the idea there were a few that
didn't like it simply because a lot of smaller airports don't supply
automotive fuel, and that this could be a huge hassle when trying to figure
out flight plans for x-country's.
I just wanted to let those of you know that most of the rotary's that are
being converted for aviation application will be fueled by 100LL aviation
fuel, the fact that the engines don't require an O2 sensor makes this
possible, as well as the EFI and Ignition controller that is used.
I thought I would just inform the list, because if anyone ever decided
against this engine type because of that reason, they can reconsider it.
I'm going to go with this engine for sure for a few reasons:
- PRICE: mazda rotary new from mazda $2300 CDN, about 6000 - 8000 CDN
for conversions to complete aviation application, rather than $25000.00 USD
(or like $1,000,000.00 CDN LOL) for a new Lycoming 0-360
- Maintenance: its a car engine with very few moving parts, easy to
maintain, plus I enjoy working on engines, as well it's an extremely
reliable engine.
- Power to weight: Full firewall forward on most planes producing 180 -
200 hp weigh about 345lbs. *CH640 can accommodate 440lbs installed* The
small 13B engine *2 rotors* will produce 160 hp stock, porting it, and few
other minor intake mods will bring it up to 180 - 200 hp. The 20B will
produce 220 - 300hp depending on the intake.
- uses aviation fuel
- Cheap to maintain
- Fuel efficiency is getting as good as Lycoming, and other certified
aviation engines.
Sorry for preaching here, I just wanted to provide this information to the
people that thought the engines wouldn't run aviation fuel.
Take care...
Morgan Wadsworth
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Philip Polstra" <ppolstra(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | N721PT first flight! |
First flight in N721PT occured around 7pm tonight. It was a brief flight,
once around the pattern. I have some pitot/static issues to work out. My
VSI was reading a 500 fpm descent on climbout, and my airspeed seemed very
unreliable. My ASI was reading 90 mph, while the GPS was reading 105 kts!
I need to adjust the idle on the Stratus, since it quit as I was flairing.
A fun "seat of the pants" flight for certain.
The airplane did fly straight & true. Next time I'll have to figure out the
airspeed problem.
Philip A. Polstra
Certified Flight Instructor - Airplane Single Engine; Instrument Airplane
Ground Instructor - Advanced; Instrument
NAFI Instructor
http://www.philsflying.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Voss <vozzen(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator Trim Tab Instructions |
There are significant differences between the ZAC Builders Area
drawings for the HDS retro-fit recessed trimtab (dated '98) and the
current XL drawings (dated '01). The XL has an entirely different
horn, positioned now in center of tab, some different dimensions, etc.
I cut the tab in, using only the plans, and it worked out well. Only
problem was an extra hole, due to having drilled the elevator skin to
the ribs before planning the trimtab. Where sheet 6-T-3 (XL) says (on
left side) to drill 2nd rivet 85mm from rib end, it should be 85mm from
trailing edge. That hole needs to fall where the inboard rib
intersects the recess channel. I showed Nick; he said he'd put on list
for next revision.
... And something in the manual would be nice.
Richard Voss
XL, tail "almost" done, Kansas City.
> Go to the ZAC builders area of their web site, and under the section
> for
> the HDS model, there's a builder's manual for the recessed elevator
> trim.
> Should be the same trim for all models since the tails are all the
> same.
>
> > Where are the instructions for the 601 XL recessed elevator trim
> > tab? I see the drawings in the plans book but nothing in the manual
> describing
> > the process. Should I just go from plans, or am I missing a page
> in
> the
> > manual?
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kilby, Roger" <Roger.Kilby(at)DynCorp.com> |
| Subject: | N721PT first flight! |
Phil,
Congratulations!!!!
Roger Kilby
N98RK 601HDS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Beckman, Rick" <Rick.Beckman(at)ATK.COM> |
| Subject: | N721PT first flight! |
Subject: N721PT first flight!
Way to go Phil!!!! All those bugs will work out soon and the effort
will be well worth it!
Again, Congratulations
!!!
Rick
750 MSL and sinking
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Weston, Jim" <Jim.Weston(at)delta.com> |
| Subject: | N721PT first flight! |
Congratulations Philip. I was thinking about you last night while I was at
church, since I knew that was your planned departure time.
Jim
-----Original Message-----
From: Philip Polstra [mailto:ppolstra(at)mindspring.com]
Subject: Zenith-List: N721PT first flight!
First flight in N721PT occured around 7pm tonight. It was a brief flight,
once around the pattern. I have some pitot/static issues to work out. My
VSI was reading a 500 fpm descent on climbout, and my airspeed seemed very
unreliable. My ASI was reading 90 mph, while the GPS was reading 105 kts!
I need to adjust the idle on the Stratus, since it quit as I was flairing.
A fun "seat of the pants" flight for certain.
The airplane did fly straight & true. Next time I'll have to figure out the
airspeed problem.
Philip A. Polstra
Certified Flight Instructor - Airplane Single Engine; Instrument Airplane
Ground Instructor - Advanced; Instrument
NAFI Instructor
http://www.philsflying.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Peter Chapman <pchapman(at)ionsys.com> |
| Subject: | Re: CH-601 flyability |
At 09:44 08-05-02 , you wrote:
>piece of information. The RV-6 was another contender until I came
>across a series of articles pointing to a real problem with the 23012
>airfoil used in the RV-6. What airfoil does the 601 use? HD? XL?
A Zenith brochure once said that it was a MODIFIED 65-018 on the 601 (other
than the XL).
But that's nearly useless info because it must be highly modified. The
65-018 has a design lift coefficient of zero while the Zodiac airfoil is
highly cambered. The chordwise position of max t/c looks different too. I
don't personally see much in common.
There's a sketch of the airfoil at:
http://www.zenithair.com/zodiac/6-design.html
Good lift, probably a nice forgiving stall, excellent for spar depth, a bit
draggy.
The sketch may not necessarily be true to scale, but looks about right from
my experience.
I don't see any big issue with the 23012. It has a sharper stall than other
airfoils, which has made it popular on lightly aerobatic aircraft. Still
gets the job done even if not a modern, designer airfoil. Overall stall &
stall warning characteristics of an aircraft using it will still be greatly
affected by other factors, such as tail placement and wing washout. If you
have information about the RV-6's stall characteristics in particular,
that's OK, but I wouldn't count the aircraft out on the basis of the
airfoil only.
>Also, is there ANY negative issues concerning the flying
>characteristics of the 601 series? I am not looking for generic
I don't think we have any major problems with the flight characteristics of
the various 601s. They aren't as fast as the brochures say. The HD model,
if not using a heavy engine like the Subaru, will tend towards a C of G
near the back of the range, so one may need to restrict the amount of
baggage in the turtledeck. Like many homebuilts, 601s are lighter on the
stick than, say a C-152, especially in pitch. Which just takes getting used
to. There's lots of stall warning on both HD and HDS models. I'm not
familiar with the XL.
Any debate about RV vs Zenith has to consider the differences in overall
mission. The RV series are faster, more sophisticated, and generally more
powerful aircraft. Building time can be much higher too for RVs, although
their latest kits with pre-drilled holes will decrease some of the gap
between them and Zeniths.
By the way, for anyone on this list, how much is predrilled these days on
601 or 601 XL kits?
I image it is more than when my dad's kit was bought years ago?
Peter Chapman
Toronto, ON 601 HDS / 912 / C-GZDC
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | 601XL Cable Routing |
| From: | Michael R Fortunato <wizard-24(at)juno.com> |
Any other XL builders out there concerned about how their control cables
are routed? By that I mean it seems like I'm having to add fairleads that
are not on the plans (such as where the cables run through the seat panel
opening near the bottom). Also, the flange on the aft end of the control
tube wants to bump into the cables running on either side of it when the
control stick is moved right and left. I hope this makes sense....anyone
else notice this?
Mike Fortunato
601XL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kilby, Roger" <Roger.Kilby(at)DynCorp.com> |
Don,
I beg to disagree with your statement that "to reduce lift you require to
decrease the angle of attack therefore the wing tip has less angle of attack
than the root meaning the wing tip is twisted slightly up not down."
It is true that if you want to reduce lift you are required to decrease the
angle of attack but in order to reduce the angle of attack at the wing tip,
the tip is twisted down, i.e.. lower at the leading edge. I am not speaking
about the ailerons but the actual wing itself. This lower leading edge at
the tip meets the relative wind at a smaller angle than does the rest of the
wing.
My suggestion on the 601 is simply don't worry about it. Build according to
the plans and the aircraft flies great!
Roger Kilby
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy L. Thwing" <n4546v(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: CH-601 flyability |
What is wrong with the RV-6 airfoil? I have been told it is the same
airfoil used by the Beech Bonanza.
Randy L. Thwing, 701 Plans & '48 Bonz
>>The RV-6 was another contender until I came
> >across a series of articles pointing to a real problem with the 23012
> >airfoil used in the RV-6.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Gower <ggower_99(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: What's up with Stratus? Side Job? |
One point of view:
I have "worked" for some years (here in Mexico) with
ultralights, as a side job.
Aviation is very important for me, but I will not be
able to do much, if I would not have a "main no
aviation" work that will support my living and family.
Here, betwen pilots, we say:
"The biggest danger of aviation is to starve to
death".
Is very dificult, at least here to be succesfull in
something from general aviation, down (but nos least
important) to Ultralighs.
I dont know Stratus (Mykal), I am new to the list, but
the time to get his clients satisfied, if you have
enough patience and trust.
Most of the aviation Big companies started (and some
broked in the road, I know) from "two car garage
corporations".
Saludos
Gary Gower
--- Don Walker wrote:
>
>
> Last week my upper starboard engine mount bracket
> was found cracked at the
> rear of the tab which connects to the head...about 1
> 1/4 inches down the
> plate. I e-mailed Mykal. He ressponded the next day
> and mailed me a new
> bracket which I got in four days. Pics available. He
> said this is the first
> such incident with the brackets. I was satisfied
> with his response. Don
> Walker HDS 214 hours.
>
>
> >From: STEFREE(at)aol.com
> >Reply-To: zenith-list(at)matronics.com
> >To: zenith-list(at)matronics.com
> >Subject: Zenith-List: What's up with Stratus?
> >Date: Tue, 7 May 2002 13:21:24 EDT
> >
> >
> >Hi,
> >
> >Does anyone know what is up with Stratus? Are they
> operating as a "real"
> >business or is this a sideline to Mykal now?
> >
> >The reason I ask is I called over there a little
> while ago and I got an
> >answering machine that says (paraphrase) "I'm
> working days now, so be sure
> >to
> >leave a phone number where I can reach you in the
> evenings, or on
> >Saturday."
> >
> >This concerns me from a support end issue. Does
> anyone else have any
> >feedback from Mykal?
> >
> >Thanks,
> >
> >Steve Freeman
> >
> >
>
>
>
> Contributions of
> any other form
>
> latest messages.
> other List members.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/search
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Gower <ggower_99(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Where is it ok to land a CH 701/801? |
Reading this post, I remembered a page from the
Bingilis book about engines.
This page mention the construction of the "Swiss
Muffler". a real silent muffler easy to build.
In some Europe countries the airplanes are so quiet
(some even under the same automoviles noise stds) that
they need a horn when they are taxing in plataform to
advice the people around.
This way a silent 701 could be in the same "ecologic"
noice level as any car, and maybe with more chances
(in niose level, or eviromental danger) than
motorcycles, 4x4's or snowmobiles... because they
need a shorter landing strip, compared with the road
oter vehicles need...
Down from my soap box.
Saludos
Gary Gower
--- "Ihab A.B. Awad" wrote:
>
>
> Hi Alan & all,
>
> Alan Cossitt wrote:
> > I've done a great deal of research in this area
> and unfortunately the
> > number of places you can legally land an airplane
> on public land is
> > severely restricted by ... law. ... Because of
> the shortage of legal
> > landing areas for airplanes on public lands many
> pilots are beginning
> > to join together to lobby ....
>
> First of all, thank you for the very complete (if
> discouraging) reply.
> Now, this sorta puts me at odds with myself....
>
> I guess I'm at least as much of an environmentalist
> as your average
> person. At one point in my life, I believed that we
> should not use cars
> at all; as a result, I exclusively walked, bused or
> biked through many
> bitter Minnesota winters. (This isn't counting even
> more Minnesota
> winters during which I did the same but out of
> necessity, because I was
> a poor student and couldn't afford a car.) I have
> since then come to be
> more mainstream (I drive a Toyota), but I still
> fully respect those who
> choose to opt out of our gasoline-centric life.
>
> That said, if one is to allow oneself the use of a
> Subaru wagon to get
> to the wilderness, then, *on the face of it*, one
> should also be okay
> with a STOL CH 801 which uses (literally!) the same
> engine. I'd wager
> that the CH 801 might save some gas by taking a more
> direct route;
> furthermore, it doesn't require a road to be built,
> and doesn't kill any
> deer along the way.
>
> Are there differences between aircraft, and can the
> regulations be set
> up to take advantage of these (or, can aircraft be
> built to satisfy
> valid concerns that the public may have)? Would a
> landing strip close to
> a parking lot in a national park necessarily need
> to allow *all*
> aircraft, or could aircraft be restricted based on
> noise level? Can a
> piston aircraft engine be effectively muffled, even
> if at the expense of
> some power or weight? Is this retrofittable to
> existing traditional
> designs (can someone "hush-kit" a C-172 and thereby
> gain admittance to
> more quiet areas)?
>
> I guess it's not easy to have a hobby. :(
>
> Thanks again Alan, and peace to all,
>
> Ihab
>
> --
> Ihab A.B. Awad
>
>
>
> Contributions of
> any other form
>
> latest messages.
> other List members.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/search
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: What's up with Stratus? |
He said that after 9-11 orders dried up. He had to get a job to survive.
He is a little harder to get a hold of but he still supports just fine. Even
though my ignition was out of warranty he stll replaced it free of charge
even thogh I offered to pay. So, I don't think you need to worry.
Chuck
>
> Hi,
>
> Does anyone know what is up with Stratus? Are they operating as a "real"
> business or is this a sideline to Mykal now?
>
> The reason I ask is I called over there a little while ago and I got an
> answering machine that says (paraphrase) "I'm working days now, so be sure
to
> leave a phone number where I can reach you in the evenings, or on
Saturday."
>
> This concerns me from a support end issue. Does anyone else have any
> feedback from Mykal?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Steve Freeman
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Philip Polstra" <ppolstra(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | First flight pics |
http://www.geocities.com/ppolstra/firstflight.html
Philip A. Polstra
Certified Flight Instructor - Airplane Single Engine; Instrument Airplane
Ground Instructor - Advanced; Instrument
NAFI Instructor
http://www.philsflying.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "doug" <dm10495(at)cedarnet.org> |
Does anyone have a cad drawing of a 601 instrument panel?
Doug Mattson
dm10495(at)cedarnet.org
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kevindiehl(at)KevinDiehl.com |
| Subject: | Re: First flight pics |
FYI Your Pictures aren't showing up because you have your links for you
Image Source set to point to the users D Drive Instead of your web site.
You should have it Pointing to
http://www.geocities.com/ppolstra/firstflight-1.JPG
Just Thought you'd want to know.
Congrats & Nice Pictures,
Kevin Diehl
http://www.KevinDiehl.com
STOL 801
----- Original Message -----
From: "Philip Polstra" <ppolstra(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Zenith-List: First flight pics
>
> http://www.geocities.com/ppolstra/firstflight.html
>
> Philip A. Polstra
> Certified Flight Instructor - Airplane Single Engine; Instrument Airplane
> Ground Instructor - Advanced; Instrument
> NAFI Instructor
> http://www.philsflying.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Townsend" <mark.townsend(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: 601XL Cable Routing |
HI Mike did you use the new 3 3/4" holes or the old rectangle cutout in the
seat panel? Remember that there has been 214 changes to the original plans
and that was one of them.
Mark Townsend
601XL EA82MPFI Turbo
-----Original Message-----
From: Michael R Fortunato <wizard-24(at)juno.com>
Date: Thursday, May 09, 2002 3:23 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: 601XL Cable Routing
>
>
>Any other XL builders out there concerned about how their control cables
>are routed? By that I mean it seems like I'm having to add fairleads that
>are not on the plans (such as where the cables run through the seat panel
>opening near the bottom). Also, the flange on the aft end of the control
>tube wants to bump into the cables running on either side of it when the
>control stick is moved right and left. I hope this makes sense....anyone
>else notice this?
>
>Mike Fortunato
>601XL
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Philip Polstra" <ppolstra(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: First flight pics |
> FYI Your Pictures aren't showing up because you have your links for you
> Image Source set to point to the users D Drive Instead of your web site.
>
Oops. I love Front Page. Problem should be fixed now.
http://www.geocities.com/ppolstra/firstflight.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Thompson <rcav8r(at)chorus.net> |
The 640 is very nice, but as a family cross country hauler, it has one
very glaring defect, a lack of real baggage space.
If you are just going to have 2 people, and need loads of baggage, thats
no problem.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 601XL Cable Routing |
| From: | Michael R Fortunato <wizard-24(at)juno.com> |
I used the old rectangular cut-out, because as usual, that particular
change was made after I already made the cut-out, and of course ZAC
didn't bother to notify anybody of the change. Ugh.
Mike Fortunato
601XL
writes:
>
>
> HI Mike did you use the new 3 3/4" holes or the old rectangle cutout
> in the seat panel? Remember that there has been 214 changes to the
original
> plans and that was one of them.
>
> Mark Townsend
> 601XL EA82MPFI Turbo
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Damien Graham" <dgraham7(at)twcny.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Oil Cooler for Rotax 912/601 HD |
The Zenith info states that one should not add an oil cooler until it is
demonstrated that it is needed. Has anyone tried not using an oil
cooler?
Regards,
Damien
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pinneo, George" <George.Pinneo(at)trw.com> |
| Subject: | Oil Cooler for Rotax 912/601 HD |
I've suffered from this misdirection! If you fly in Northern Canada or Alaska,
in cool weather, you may not need an oil cooler. I had to add one to complete
my 40 hour fly-off out here in CA in April. Install an oil cooler before you
damage your new engine!
601 HDS, 912 UL, 380 hours.
GGP
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Fothergill <mfothergill(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil Cooler for Rotax 912/601 HD |
Hi Damien;
I strongly recommend that you ignore that advice. Add the oil cooler.
Mike
C-FRND
CH-601 900+ hours
UHS Spinners
Damien Graham wrote:
>
>
> The Zenith info states that one should not add an oil cooler until it is
> demonstrated that it is needed. Has anyone tried not using an oil
> cooler?
> Regards,
> Damien
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Austin" <daveaustin2(at)sprint.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil Cooler for Rotax 912/601 HD |
Yes, and had to install one after first flight, up here in Canada in
September!
Dave Austin 601HDS - 912
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "patrick walsh" <pwalsh4539(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil Cooler for Rotax 912/601 HD |
Yes,
I did not install an oil cooler at first....took one flight to realize that it
was needed. BUT....that is in Texas and was in July...100 degree plus air temps.
In the winter or cooler climates...and perhaps at altitude cruising it may
not be needed...in fact my temps are a little on the cool side on the non-hot
days.....
Hope that helps
Patrick Walsh
912/601 HD
----- Original Message -----
From: Damien Graham
Subject: Zenith-List: Oil Cooler for Rotax 912/601 HD
>
The Zenith info states that one should not add an oil cooler until it is
demonstrated that it is needed. Has anyone tried not using an oil
cooler?
Regards,
Damien
=
=
=
=
Get mor
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Todd Osborne <todd(at)toddtown.com> |
| Subject: | How Does First Flight Feel? |
I know this is very subjective, but I am curious, how does it feel the
first time you fly a plane you built? Is it like your first solo? I still
remember my first solo, 14 years ago, like it was yesterday. I remember
being happy, anxious, thrilled, but also nervous and terrified. The
scared/terrified part left as soon as the little 152 left the ground. I
guess I knew then that I really had a job to do, put it back down on the
ground in one piece. I circled the pattern and landed without problem, and
sheer JOY and happiness took over. I did NOT want to do it again that day.
I wanted to go home. The next day I rented the plane and flew solo to the
practice area, and all the scared feelings from the day before were gone. I
felt comfortable again, although maybe I shouldn't have :)
Todd Osborne
Internet E-Mail: todd(at)toddtown.com
AOL Messenger: toddosborn
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chuck Deiterich" <cfd(at)thegateway.net> |
You can see new pix of my 701 panel at
http://members.thegateway.net/cfd/ look under AIRPLANE.
Note the BRS will probably not be installed as it puts the cg at the aft
limit.
I thought you might like to see how I stiffened the .025 panel, without
much added weight. On the front of the panel, there is a row of 4
switches just above the fuses on the left bottom. The door to the map
box is missing. The dual CHT has two switches to select the front or
rear cylinders. Yes, the throttle is a brass drawer knob. The mag
switches are above the throttle, the key is the master and the start
switch. Trim switch and boost pump switch are left of the throttle and
the choke is above the intercom and the carb heat is left of the key.
The space above the map box is for a transponder one day.
Chuck D.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Nielsenbe(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | buying a half completed project |
If I buy a kit that is mostly completed but has never been registered.......
Is it still possible to be listed as the builder? I will only do a small part
of the work not 51%. Is it alot harder to get someone to sign off the
airworthiness? What if the building logs for most of it are missing or not
well documented? As you can guess I found a good deal on a plane that is 90%
done and if I could still get all the benifits of being listed as the builder
I would get the plane. Thanks, Brad
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RoyN9869L(at)aol.com |
I am looking for a CH701 project that needs completion. I really don't care
at what percentage of completion but it must be a complete airframe contact
me at
RoyN9869L(at)aol.com
Cheers,
Roy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Nielsenbe(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: buying a half completed project |
Thanks for the info.
Brad
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell J." <rsj(at)kscable.com> |
I have the firewall off my 601, and this would be a good time to cut
insulation panels for the sides of the fuselage between then instrument
panel and firewall.
What are some of you using, other than the insulation bats sold in ACS, and
does it add that much to soundproofing.
Russell J. / 601-hds
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Austin" <daveaustin2(at)sprint.ca> |
I used two inch fibrglas insulation with the backing removed to reduce fire
risk.
Dave Austin 601HDS - 912
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Bockius" <bruce(at)whiteantelopesoftware.com> |
| Subject: | How Does First Flight Feel? |
Yeah, I'd say that's a pretty good description for me. I did fly the
plane a 2nd time the first day, but I had to wait about 4 hours for my
adrenaline level to return to normal first.
-Bruce
> I know this is very subjective, but I am curious, how does it
> feel the
> first time you fly a plane you built? Is it like your first
> solo? I still
> remember my first solo, 14 years ago, like it was yesterday.
> I remember
> being happy, anxious, thrilled, but also nervous and terrified. The
> scared/terrified part left as soon as the little 152 left the
> ground. I
> guess I knew then that I really had a job to do, put it back
> down on the
> ground in one piece. I circled the pattern and landed without
> problem, and
> sheer JOY and happiness took over. I did NOT want to do it
> again that day.
> I wanted to go home. The next day I rented the plane and flew
> solo to the
> practice area, and all the scared feelings from the day
> before were gone. I
> felt comfortable again, although maybe I shouldn't have :)
>
> Todd Osborne
> Internet E-Mail: todd(at)toddtown.com
> AOL Messenger: toddosborn
>
>
> ===========
> ===========
> ===========
> http://www.matronics.com/browselist/zenith-> list
> Search Engine: http://www.matronics.com/search
>
> ===========
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Karnes" <jpkarnes(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Re: buying a half completed project |
> I am thinking about buying a 95% complete project from another builder,
will
> I be able to get a Repairman Certificate?
> If you, as the final builder, can convince the FAA or DAR inspector that
you
> have the requisite skill necessary for determining whether the aircraft is
> in condition for safe operation, the inspector should give you the
Repairman
> Certificate.
>
>
> According to this, Yes it's possible to get the repairman's certificate
for
> this airplane.
The statement on AC Form 8050-88 that you must notarize and send with your
application is, "More than 50% of the above-described aircraft was build
from a kit (prefabricated parts) and I am the owner. The bill of sale from
the kit manufacturer is attached."
So I don't think it would be possible to obtain a repairman's certificate if
you didn't buy the kit and assemble it yourself.
John Karnes
Port Orchard, WA
601 HDS w/Stratus
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: buying a half completed project |
I am sorry but the person that finally registers a home built can be issued
the Repairman's certificate. Note there is NO linkage between what was
bought, who built it and ownership. With a project school flight all the
work has been done by students, but the instructor has easily gotten the
Repair Certificate.
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
Always looking for articles for the Experimenter
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Karnes" <jpkarnes(at)charter.net>
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: buying a half completed project
> I am thinking about buying a 95% complete project from another builder,
will
> I be able to get a Repairman Certificate?
> If you, as the final builder, can convince the FAA or DAR inspector that
you
> have the requisite skill necessary for determining whether the aircraft is
> in condition for safe operation, the inspector should give you the
Repairman
> Certificate.
>
>
> According to this, Yes it's possible to get the repairman's certificate
for
> this airplane.
The statement on AC Form 8050-88 that you must notarize and send with your
application is, "More than 50% of the above-described aircraft was build
from a kit (prefabricated parts) and I am the owner. The bill of sale from
the kit manufacturer is attached."
So I don't think it would be possible to obtain a repairman's certificate if
you didn't buy the kit and assemble it yourself.
John Karnes
Port Orchard, WA
601 HDS w/Stratus
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Todd Osborne <todd(at)toddtown.com> |
| Subject: | Fixing Non-Level Elevator Skin |
While working on my XL's elevator yesterday, I failed to notice a leveling
problem when drilling the skins. When cleco'd, there is about a 1"-2" warp,
the left side of the trailing edge is higher/lower than the right side.
It is obvious the problem happened while I was drilling the top-front of
the skin. When I remove the cleco's along the hinge line, the elevator is
flat and smooth, but the holes between the top and bottom skins don't line
up, off by about a 1/2 hole width. This is apparently the distance that is
causing the twist.
So how do I correct it?
1) Live with it, ignore the twist and use the existing holes.
2) Re-drill the holes, make the rivet fit loose, and then drill new holes
between the existing 40mm spaced holes, giving 20mm spacing between all the
rivets in the elevator. Lots of rivets, but probably strongest.
3) Buy a new elevator skin and declare a do-over.
Any other suggestions? Thanks,
Todd Osborne
Internet E-Mail: todd(at)toddtown.com
AOL Messenger: toddosborn
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RoyN9869L(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Fixing Non-Level Elevator Skin |
In a message dated 5/12/2002 1:03:24 PM Eastern Standard Time,
bryanmmartin(at)comcast.net writes:
>
> Another possibility: redrill the inner hole through the outer hole and make
> a washer to put inside for the rivet to hold tight. The inner metal will be
> held tight between the outer skin and washer.
>
This is a great fix. Sounds professionalism at its best
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Don" <grandpanma(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Partial Kit For Sale 601HDS |
Hi List,
Still have my Partial Kit FOR SALE. $5900.00 or any Reasonal Offer.
*** Price Reduced ***
*********** MUST SELL ************
Get a head start or add cheaply to what you already have.
My financial situation has changed and I can no longer afford to
continue building.
I started out building the 601HDS Rudder in the factory weekend
workshop, brought the "Tail kit" home with me. Finished the "Tail kit", now
was working on the "Wing kit".
I only finished the skeleton of one wing, that's where I stopped.
Must sell what I have.
Drawings & Manuals: $340.00
Complete Tail Kit W/flush electric trim tab:(Finished) 1495.00
Wing & Aileron Kit: (finished skeleton of one wing) 4580.00
Leading Edge fuel tank kit: 875.00
Navigation/strobe light kit: 465.00
____________
Total: 7755.00
Have a few EXTRA parts I will include.
Will sell at a very reasonable price: ---- Around ---- $5900.00 or a
reasonable offer.
My E-mail Address is: grandpanma(at)earthlink.net
I live in Puckett, MS. That's about 25 miles south/east of Jackson, MS.
My phone No. 601-591-1589
Sincerely,
Donald Vough Jr.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Alberti" <daberti(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fixing Non-Level Elevator Skin |
This method may violate the edge distance...so be careful.
You may find that you have to drill larger A5 on many holes to fix this.
Don't overlook that you may have to fudge some holes on the "good" end to
compromise the fit between the two. The problem (I'm guessing) came from
drilling holes from one end to the other rather than from the middle out and
alternating sides. The skin tightens up quite a bit even with just clecos
and causes the warping.
Dave
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bryan Martin" <bryanmmartin(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Fixing Non-Level Elevator Skin
> > Todd Osborne
> > Internet E-Mail: todd(at)toddtown.com
> > AOL Messenger: toddosborn
> >
>
> Another possibility: redrill the inner hole through the outer hole and
make
> a washer to put inside for the rivet to hold tight. The inner metal will
be
> held tight between the outer skin and washer.
>
>
> --
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rich <rich(at)carol.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fixing Non-Level Elevator Skin |
Once you rivet one side on it'll be difficult to hold the separate washers in place
unless you use
some sort of adhesive or liquid gasket type of product.
It may be easier to use a strip of alum. instead of washers, which will be held
in place be the
clecoes next to the hole being riveted.
Rich
RoyN9869L(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> In a message dated 5/12/2002 1:03:24 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> bryanmmartin(at)comcast.net writes:
>
> >
> > Another possibility: redrill the inner hole through the outer hole and make
> > a washer to put inside for the rivet to hold tight. The inner metal will be
> > held tight between the outer skin and washer.
> >
>
> This is a great fix. Sounds professionalism at its best
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "JNBOLDING1" <JNBOLDING1(at)mail.ev1.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fixing Non-Level Elevator Skin |
---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
From: Rich <rich(at)carol.net>
Date: Sun, 12 May 2002 17:21:04 -0400
>
>Once you rivet one side on it'll be difficult to hold the separate washers in
place unless you use
>some sort of adhesive or liquid gasket type of product.
>
>It may be easier to use a strip of alum. instead of washers, which will be held
in place be the
>clecoes next to the hole being riveted.
>
>Rich
>
>
>RoyN9869L(at)aol.com wrote:
>>
>>
>> In a message dated 5/12/2002 1:03:24 PM Eastern Standard Time,
>> bryanmmartin(at)comcast.net writes:
>>
>> >
>> > Another possibility: redrill the inner hole through the outer hole and make
>> > a washer to put inside for the rivet to hold tight. The inner metal will be
>> > held tight between the outer skin and washer.
>> >
>>
>> This is a great fix. Sounds professionalism at its best
>>
>
>
>In my humble opinion the only fix is a new skin you are relying on friction
to keep things from moving Fix it right and you won't have to think about it
every time you fly. I built 3 left flaps,3 main spars and 5 trim tabs for an
RV3 almost 30 yrs ago and look at the extra work as part of the learning curve
John
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Danielson" <steved(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fixing Non-Level Elevator Skin |
I don't think washers is a good idea. Drilling the holes slightly bigger and
fitting the A4 to fit, and then adding new A4 between each of the affected
rivets sounds good to me, if approved by Nick. I had a case where I violated
the min edge distance on the front of the elevator skin, and that was the
approved ZAC fix (new rivets in between) So now I have twice the rivets on
the front of my elevator in a zig zag pattern. At least yours will be in a
straight pattern...
Steve Danielson
stalled on an XL tail kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kilby, Roger" <Roger.Kilby(at)DynCorp.com> |
| Subject: | Oil cooler for Rotax 912/601 HD |
Damien,
Here in Virginia it gets hot and an oil cooler is a must
I have one and also made a small vent in the lower cowl to provide extra
cooling for the summer time.
I have a small panel that I install over this opening in the winter.
Roger Kilby
N98RK 601HDS
.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kilby, Roger" <Roger.Kilby(at)DynCorp.com> |
| Subject: | How Does First Flight Feel? |
Todd,
I'd say you are about right on with your description. I believe I was more
nervous when, as a
newly instrument rated pilot, I flew actual IFR alone for the first time.
There is a definite thrill that this is an aircraft YOU built. Of course,
the first thing I did after my first
flight was to call my wife and tell her I was still in one piece. She was
more worried than I was.
Roger Kilby
N98RK 601HDS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Weber" <chrisoz(at)gmx.net> |
| Subject: | Fixing Elevator Skin |
> While working on my XL's elevator yesterday, I failed to notice a leveling
> problem when drilling the skins. When cleco'd, there is about a 1"-2"
warp,
> the left side of the trailing edge is higher/lower than the right side.
>
>
> So how do I correct it?
>
> 1) Live with it, ignore the twist and use the existing holes.
>
> 2) Re-drill the holes, make the rivet fit loose, and then drill new holes
> between the existing 40mm spaced holes, giving 20mm spacing between all
the
> rivets in the elevator. Lots of rivets, but probably strongest.
>
> 3) Buy a new elevator skin and declare a do-over.
>
> Any other suggestions? Thanks,
Hello Tod,
the obvious answer is 2). But:
Straighten it out and drill new holes between the existing holes with the 20
mm spacing. Cleco and then drill the old holes. Rivet up. The resulting
rivet-line will look okay, and you've got the right number of rivets in
prime condition with correct edge distance.
Washers are not a good idea, hard to fit and just clamping the lower sheet
doesn't seem such a good idea.
Structural wise there is no compelling reason to roll over and redo the
whole skin, more an ego thing. I wouldn't bother, and have 20 mm spacing on
my stabilizer spar were I stuffed up. Looks good, flies good, nobody
notices, and I stopped being annoyed a long time ago.
Happy building,
Chris Weber
601 TD 912, 25 hours and testperiod over, the final registration was filed
today
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fred or Sandy Hulen" <hulens61(at)birch.net> |
| Subject: | negative postings |
It saddens me to read the many criticisms posted to this list. It didn't
used to be this way. I look forward to the return of an ongoing positive
attitude.
Fred
Area 41 Snailworks
"Zodie Rocket" N-601LX Perpetually in the last 10%
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lumkes, John Jr." <lumkes(at)msoe.edu> |
| Subject: | Mild Positive G aerobatics in a CH701? |
Hello,
At the request of a friend considering building the CH701: Are gentle loops,
stall-turns, and other positive G mild aerobatics "allowed" or has anyone
done them. This certainly isn't the primary reason anyone would build this
plane but it might be interesting to know.
Thanks,
John Lumkes
lumkes(at)msoe.edu
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Todd Osborne <todd(at)toddtown.com> |
| Subject: | Re: A Matter of Math |
In all fairness to you, I bleed profusely when building my plane. Like you,
my wife would not believe I was working on it unless I come in a couple of
times each Saturday for her to fix me up. No major skin condition here,
other than allergic reaction to aluminum shavings, I just manage to cut
myself on everything sharp, which is the majority of the plane :) Yes, I
use wood blocks so I don't drill my fingers, but I have drilled them
several times anyways. Blood, Sweat, and Tears. I think I will name my
plane that!
I am light-hearted and build and fly for fun only. I don't take life too
seriously, am happy and fun-loving, and yes, error prone. I will probably
paint my plane blood red to cover the stains that I could not get out :)
Just kidding folks! Have a good week.
Todd
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Todd Osborne <todd(at)toddtown.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fixing Non-Level Elevator Skin |
I just wanted to say thanks to all of your that responded to me request for
help with this. This list is great and hopefully someday I will have the
insight and knowledge to help others as well. Ultimately, I decided to go
with the approach that I did not think of, drilling out the A4's to A5
size. This worked well, and the edge distances are still acceptable. I will
bounce this off Nick at ZAC too, but I can't see any problem with this
approach.
BTW, the twist happened because I had set up a leveling block to hold it
level while drilling. It fell off the block, but I did not notice it.
Finding it after drilling the hinge line was too late. I was drilling
center-out, just without the leveling block, I was setting up a twist that
went undetected. The rest of the elevator is looking good!
Todd Osborne
Internet E-Mail: todd(at)toddtown.com
AOL Messenger: toddosborn
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Bockius" <bruce(at)whiteantelopesoftware.com> |
| Subject: | A Matter of Math |
Sometimes a block of wood just doesn't fit, or you can't adequately hold
the metal in position and the block of wood at the same time. About
week 4 of building my plane I went to the doctor and said I wanted a
tetanus shot. He wanted to see my injury. I said, well I don't have
any now but I run an 1/8 drill bit through my finger every couple weeks,
so I thought it'd be a good idea. I got my shot.
-Bruce/601HD/TDO/Stratus/304 hrs
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-zenith-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-zenith-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> Todd Osborne
> Sent: Monday, May 13, 2002 9:35 AM
> To: zenith-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Zenith-List: A Matter of Math
>
>
>
>
> In all fairness to you, I bleed profusely when building my
> plane. Like you,
> my wife would not believe I was working on it unless I come
> in a couple of
> times each Saturday for her to fix me up. No major skin
> condition here,
> other than allergic reaction to aluminum shavings, I just
> manage to cut
> myself on everything sharp, which is the majority of the
> plane :) Yes, I
> use wood blocks so I don't drill my fingers, but I have drilled them
> several times anyways. Blood, Sweat, and Tears. I think I
> will name my
> plane that!
>
> I am light-hearted and build and fly for fun only. I don't
> take life too
> seriously, am happy and fun-loving, and yes, error prone. I
> will probably
> paint my plane blood red to cover the stains that I could not
> get out :)
> Just kidding folks! Have a good week.
>
> Todd
>
>
> ===========
> ===========
> ===========
> http://www.matronics.com/browselist/zenith-> list
> Search Engine: http://www.matronics.com/search
>
> ===========
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Estenson" <desten(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: A Matter of Math |
I thought I was the only one to do that!
Dennis Estenson
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bruce Bockius" <bruce(at)whiteantelopesoftware.com>
Subject: RE: Zenith-List: A Matter of Math
He wanted to see my injury. I said, well I don't have
any now but I run an 1/8 drill bit through my finger every couple weeks,
so I thought it'd be a good idea
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "George Swinford" <grs-pms(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: A Matter of Math |
On the general subject of bloodletting in the workshop:
Years ago, I was taught by an airframe repair expert to always "break" the
edge of freshly cut or sheared sheet metal by stroking it with a common mill
file. This removes that knifelike burr. It is also good practice to break
the sharp point off the corners. This isn't related to metal fatigue,it just
makes life easier for you or anyone else who works on the airframe.
It does increase the building time a bit, but considering the time saved in
hunting for antiseptic and band aids you will probably break even. You will
end up with a better looking airframe, too.
As for drilling holes in your thumb, you tend to learn caution. I've only
done it once, but I sure remember it.
George
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brent Battles <brentbattles(at)pipeline.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 601 Canopy Cover |
>Does anyone know of a current supplier for a 601 canopy cover.
I have a cover by Bruce with which I am very happy. Good materials, good
workmanship, good fit. Try to aviod ordering right after Oshkosh or Sun 'n
Fun to avoid delay.
Brent Battles
N16BZ 601HD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brent Battles <brentbattles(at)pipeline.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fixing Non-Level Elevator Skin |
>> Another possibility: redrill the inner hole through the outer hole and make
>> a washer to put inside for the rivet to hold tight. The inner metal will be
>> held tight between the outer skin and washer.
>This is a great fix. Sounds professionalism at its best
____________
My comment is premised on the following understanding of this plan:
1) "Inner" and "outer" holes will be of different diameters.
2) The washer is to fit on the underside of the "inner" piece (presumably
a rib), with the rib flange and skin sandwiched between the washer and
rivet head.
I do not agree for the reason that holding the skin tightly to a support
member in compression isn't the primary purpose of the rivet. Rather it is
to prevent lateral movement along the mating surface. That is my
understanding of the source of strength in a "stressed skin" aircraft. (At
least that's what I tell folks at the sheet metal workshop I volunteer in
at Sun 'n Fun.) I would suspect that holes of unequal diameter would at
least potentially allow for movement as well as somewhat increasing the
possibility for corrosion within this gap.
If I were in your position (and I was once with a top skin), I'd replace
the skin. Assuming you're learning as you go, you won't make a similar
mistake later on and your overall level of workmanship will improve. Years
from now (maybe only weeks) you may well find yourself asking yourself why
you settled for a level of finish which the rest of the airplane now easily
exceeds.
Hope this helps.
Regards,
Brent Battles
N16BZ 601HD
________________________________________________________________________________
> I took mine to 8000 and stalled (power) to 4000 and all I got was a
mush, no drop, just mush. The stalls are very docile like nothing else I
have flown (mainly 150's and tomahawks).
Chuck
Would someone describe the characteristics of a stall in an HDS? Is it
> docile, or mushy, or does it tend to want to snap over? Hope to one day
> experience it for myself.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "zodiacjeff" <zodiacjeff(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Jabiru engine info |
For those of you that are contemplating an engine choice for the 601 series
and would like to know a little more about the Jabiru 3300 installation this
may be of interest.
Fred Hulen and I are both in the "perpetual last 10%" (as Fred puts it) of
such an installation. Neither of us has a website but Pete Krotje of US
Jabiru has posted some photos that might enlighten.
Check out: http://www.usjabiru.com/zenith_601_builders.htm
We're not yet running, but with the pioneering done by Barry M., Stan C.,
Bill N., and others, we won't have to reinvent the wheel for this
combination.
Jabiru recently announced increased TBO times for both the 2200 and 3300
beginning with certain serial numbers. If interested you can contact Pete
at usjabiru(at)athenet.net.
My builder's page was just updated with pixs of cowl design and fit at
http://www.zenithair.com/bldrlist/profiles/JeffS/
If I can answer any questions about the installation don't hesitate to
contact me.
Regards Jeff Area 41 SWE
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "doug" <dm10495(at)cedarnet.org> |
Does anyone have pictures or instructions on how the main gear Grove wheels
and brakes mount?
Doug Mattson
dm10495(at)cedarnet.org
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Edwin Ulrich" <eulrich(at)escape.ca> |
Hi Roy,
Did you have any luck finding a 701? I could sell you a 701 Airframe but not
until fall...
We (myself and two retired machinists) are building four 701's right now...
one for each of us, plus one additional 701 to donate to a humanitarian
organization in Africa.(My daughter has got me convinced that I need to be a
better global citizen. Check out www.thefiddlegirl.com to see what I mean...
but that's a whole other story).
Our problem at this time is purchasing the engine for the donation plane. I
recently got laid off, and my two friends are retired. Considering the cost
involved in purchasing the Rotax engine for the donated aircraft, we are
considering selling the fourth plane, in order to get the funding to buy the
Rotax, and then build a fifth plane to mount it in (and donate).
I'm not sure that all made sense... but the bottom line is that we could
sell the fourth plane, but it would be a fuselage only. Quality of the
planes is great. One of the guys I'm building with is the Government
Inspector for homebuilts, so everything is by the book. We're also building
from laser cut parts that I drafted in AutoCAD.
I should also mention that the fourth plane is only just started, because
we've all been concentrating on getting our own birds done first... so it
would probably take at least until the early fall to get it done if your
interested. ("Fall" happens in august/september up here in Canada)
Feel free to e-mail or give me a shout at home if you want to chat...
Ed Ulrich
Grosse Isle, MB.
(204) 467-9621
eulrich(at)escape.ca
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
RoyN9869L(at)aol.com
Subject: Zenith-List: WANTED CH-701
I am looking for a CH701 project that needs completion. I really don't care
at what percentage of completion but it must be a complete airframe contact
me at
RoyN9869L(at)aol.com
Cheers,
Roy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | alex trent <atrent7(at)cogeco.ca> |
George Swinford wrote:
>
> On the general subject of bloodletting in the workshop:
>
> Years ago, I was taught by an airframe repair expert to always "break" the
> edge of freshly cut or sheared sheet metal by stroking it with a common mill
> fill
> end up with a better looking airframe, too.
>
> As for drilling holes in your thumb, you tend to learn caution. I've only
> done it once, but I sure remember it.
>
> George
>
Sounds like my teacher. I was taught the same thing and still
practice it. You can get some very nasty cuts from those sharp edges. The time
taken to remove them is time well spent. I haven't as yet had the experience
on
drilling a hole in any parts od my body, maybe I have just been lucky.
alex t.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RoyN9869L(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: WANTED CH-701 |
Hi! Ed,
Just read your post, every interesting. I'll get back to you this evening
as I drive a school bus and I have schedules to meet, don't we all? Where in
thunder is Grosse Isle, MB? It's got to be close to Santa Clause Land. Cheers
Roger Roy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Edwin Ulrich" <eulrich(at)escape.ca> |
That's funny! I'll pass your comments along to my staff... the elves will
get a chuckle out of it....
Take Care, Ed.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
RoyN9869L(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: WANTED CH-701
Hi! Ed,
Just read your post, every interesting. I'll get back to you this evening
as I drive a school bus and I have schedules to meet, don't we all? Where in
thunder is Grosse Isle, MB? It's got to be close to Santa Clause Land.
Cheers
Roger Roy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Edwin Ulrich" <eulrich(at)escape.ca> |
oops.. forgot to mention... My wife (a nurse) is working tonight, so I need
to take my daughter to baseball practice. I'm not sure if you were planning
on calling or writing, but I would suggest an e-mail, as I won't be home to
take your call tonight... I should be home all day (and evening tomorrow) if
that suits you..
Take care, Ed.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
RoyN9869L(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: WANTED CH-701
Hi! Ed,
Just read your post, every interesting. I'll get back to you this evening
as I drive a school bus and I have schedules to meet, don't we all? Where in
thunder is Grosse Isle, MB? It's got to be close to Santa Clause Land.
Cheers
Roger Roy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | richard priebus <rpriebus(at)yahoo.com> |
Hi, I'm new to the list and to plane building. I
just completed the elevator, and I ran across a little
problem. After I put on corrosion protection, I had a
difficult time knowing the correct rib positions. All
the holes were very close to being the same. How do
you (everyone) mark the right position? I'm on to the
wing and I thank everyone in advance.
Thanks, Richard Priebus Pleasant Prairie, WI
http://launch.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Edwin Ulrich" <eulrich(at)escape.ca> |
"How do you (everyone) mark the right position? "
I apply primer via a spray-can only to the "mating" surfaces. On the wings,
that would be the flanges of the ribs, and the skins along the rivet lines
only. I'm simply careful to apply the rib ID to a portion of the rib that
won't be getting primed (near the lightening holes). I did elect to prime
the entire part for any 2024-t3 material that I used. I understand that 2024
has lower corrosion resistance than 6061. In those cases, I tied a twist-tie
with an ID fastened to it.
Take Care, Ed.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mark Wood <mawood(at)zoo.uvm.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: List Netiquette |
To all fun loving folks on the list.
Thanks for the support and understanding. I hope this can be the end of any
issues caused by my post the other day. I did a mis-read on the mood of
the post from Dave and thank you Dave for pointing out that you had a
smiley face on that one. I tried to let people know that I was not really
upset just a little taken back. James was great to check on everyone and
yes this is a great list and people are here for enjoyment.
Thanks to all. enjoy building
Mark
>Hey mawood;
>
>>
>> I am a little put
>> back at being treated like an idiot for what I wrote the other day. My
>> intention is not to try to be nasty or get in a pissing patch, it
>
>Hang with us awhile before you get too upset. This kind of thing happens on
>the list and we all eventually get to the point where we can handle it. I
>once got royally pissed off about being referred to as "plebian" for a
>question I later found out to be quite reasonable.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Todd Osborne <todd(at)toddtown.com> |
| Subject: | If you need web space... |
I know a lot of you have web sites that you are keeping at places that
limit how much people can see, limit bandwidth, etc. I run my own web
server and if any of you would like to host your projects HTML and pictures
on my server, just let me know. You can register a domain name if you want
and I will host it for your free. You have to live with my rules though,
and they are:
1) You cannot directly access your files. Send them to me and I will upload
them. The reason for this is security. The server runs Trustix Secure Linux
and the Apache web server and only I have access to the site for uploading
files.
2) I backup the server nightly to another hard drive in the machine, but
only once a week to my home computer. That means that in the case of a
crash, you could be out one weeks worth of updates.
3) Limit the site to Zenith aircraft information, or small amounts of
personal/family information.
4) The site does run PHP 4.x, so if you are into scripting, this is allowed.
That's about it. The server is owned by me, but is hosted by a good friend
of mine with a T1 connection to the Internet. I have done this for several
years, but if he cannot provide the connection anymore in the future, I
will have to take it offline until I find another method. I don't forsee
this happening, and would have notice, but it is only fair to let you know
that this is a possibility. If that happens, I will be forced to find
another service, but if there are enough of your hosting your sites there,
maybe we could pool our resources and buy a good connection.
Let me know if you are interested. I don't have the time to provide much
hand-holding as far as your site goes, but I have the computer and
connection if you want to do a better site than Geocities and places like
that offer.
Todd Osborne
Internet E-Mail: todd(at)toddtown.com
AOL Messenger: toddosborn
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Garrou, Douglas" <dgarrou(at)hunton.com> |
| Subject: | The Flying Flee? |
Chris Heintz's comments on the Sport Pilot NPRM can be viewed at:
http://dms3000.dot.gov/docimages/pdf80/161570_web.pdf
He seems strangely interested in the "Flying Flee" design, whatever that
is... Hmm.... I wonder what he has on the drawing board....
Doug G.
Project 801
p.s. For the non-US crowd, the NPRM is a "notice of proposed rulemaking."
Basically our body governing aviation, the FAA, promulgates a proposed rule,
and then solicits comments from the regulated community. Theoretically the
FAA responds to those comments in the final rule, explaining why they are
adopting or ignoring the suggestions. This time the FAA let people submit
their comments online, which was a really cool thing for them to do.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "The Meiste's" <meiste(at)essex1.com> |
| Subject: | Comments about Sport Pilot |
Just as a comparison, here is what Sonex is saying about the Sport Aircraft
NPRM:
Kelly
601 HD
(stuck at 90%)
May 3, 2002
Sonex,ltd submitted the following comments to the FAA today regarding the
Light, Sport Aircraft NPRM:
==========================================
1. Eliminate the Maximum Speed in level flight with maximum continuous power
(Vh) of 115 knots [FAR Part 1; Definitions and Abbreviations]
==========================================
Sonex recommends the elimination of the Maximum Speed in level flight. The
top speed of the Light, Sport Aircraft is naturally limited by the other
definitions, most notably the maximum stalling speed (Vso) of 39 knots CAS
and the maximum stalling speed without the use of lift-enhancing devices
(Vs1) of 44 knots CAS.
The Maximum Speed Limit (Vh) of 115 knots greatly reduces design efficiency
and adds nothing to the safe operation of the "Light, Sport" Aircraft.
The current Sonex Airframe, which was designed to optimize the Ultralight
Aircraft Requirements of Europe and Canada, has been designed to be used
with 3 engine options all operating at a gross weight of 1100 lbs. The first
two are rated at 80hp and translate to performance that fits perfectly into
the Sport Pilot Proposal in its current form. The third engine option is
rated at 120hp, which puts the Sonex top speed out of the Maximum Speed in
level flight as it is currently defined.
Sonex,ltd believes most sport pilots and light, sport aircraft will be
operated out of short, grass strips sometimes with obstacles at the
approaches and often at high density altitudes. Regardless of whether the 80
hp or 120 hp engine is fitted to the Sonex, the low speed handling is
identical. This means the pilot skill required to operate either model is
the same and that more power is available if it is needed with the larger
engine. With the standard Sonex Propeller, the additional power the 120 hp
engine provides translates to a 50% increase in climb performance along with
an increased cruise speed of 130.32 knots (150 mph) and top speed of 147.7
knots (170 mph).
Many Sport Aircraft, with the engine at less than full power, can be
accelerated to speeds well in excess of Vh by simply dropping the nose. The
ability to increase kinetic energy will always be there, and is limited only
by the Vne of a particular aircraft.
If adopted as is, Sonex, ltd will be fitting flat-pitch propellers to the
larger engine option to meet the Maximum Speed Limit. Unfortunately, this
will dramatically reduce the cruise performance and greatly reduces the
efficiency of the Sonex design (higher fuel burn rates). We don't believe
there's a pilot who flys today that hasn't been in a situation where a
little extra power (as in the 120hp engine option) that would have been
welcome to get them up over trees or out of a grass strip faster.
In conclusion, the Maximum Speed requirement does not enhance safety and
penalizes design efficiency.
==========================================
2. Eliminate the 87-knot Vh speed limit for student sport pilots. [SFAR 89,
Sections 35(e), 65, 73, 83, and 121-(3)(iv), Section 135(c)]
==========================================
Sonex believes this special speed limit for Student Pilots will provide for
less safe aircraft to be operated by Student Pilots.
In order to meet this requirement, "Light, Sport" optimized designs like the
Sonex will be forced to use the smallest horsepower engines, reducing the
available power to the Student Pilot and making accidents on short grass
strips with obstacles more likely.
The only effect this part of the proposal has is to reduce the level of
safety for student pilots and makes them less prepared for operating
standard "Light, Sport" Aircraft.
==========================================
How to make a comment:
==========================================
If you share a similar view with Sonex on the top speed requirement, we
highly encourage you to send a comment to the FAA. At this late date, there
are two ways to submit your thoughts. We encourage all builders to add to or
change our comment in any way they wish.
1. Electronically: EAA has set up an electronic submission form at:
http://209.83.103.41/forms/nprm_comments.asp
2. Fax: Prepare your letter and fax it to the Docket Office at 202-493-2251.
Only one copy needs to be faxed. Make sure your comments include your name,
address, phone number/e-mail address.
Further instructions are available on the EAA's Sport Pilot Web Site at:
http://www.sportpilot.org
==========================================
Sonex,ltd is very excited about this proposal and will continue to tout the
Sonex as the class-optimized "Light, Sport" Aircraft.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Garrou, Douglas" <dgarrou(at)hunton.com>
Subject: Zenith-List: The Flying Flee?
>
> Chris Heintz's comments on the Sport Pilot NPRM can be viewed at:
>
> http://dms3000.dot.gov/docimages/pdf80/161570_web.pdf
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wayne McMullen" <cmcmullen(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: The Flying Flee? |
I think he means "The Flying Flea".
http://www.netwiz.net/~mdaniels/flyingflea/gallery.html
Wayne
----- Original Message -----
From: "Garrou, Douglas" <dgarrou(at)hunton.com>
Subject: Zenith-List: The Flying Flee?
>
> Chris Heintz's comments on the Sport Pilot NPRM can be viewed at:
>
> http://dms3000.dot.gov/docimages/pdf80/161570_web.pdf
>
> He seems strangely interested in the "Flying Flee" design, whatever that
> is... Hmm.... I wonder what he has on the drawing board....
>
> Doug G.
> Project 801
> p.s. For the non-US crowd, the NPRM is a "notice of proposed rulemaking."
> Basically our body governing aviation, the FAA, promulgates a proposed
rule,
> and then solicits comments from the regulated community. Theoretically
the
> FAA responds to those comments in the final rule, explaining why they are
> adopting or ignoring the suggestions. This time the FAA let people submit
> their comments online, which was a really cool thing for them to do.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Todd Osborne <todd(at)toddtown.com> |
| Subject: | About Hinges and Safety Wire and Aileron Trim |
After messing up a hinge trying the "crush the end" method, I have decided
to drill the ends of my hinges and use safety wire. What size wire should I
buy? On a somewhat related subject, what is the general thought on electric
aileron trim for the 601? I am having a hard time justifying it, since I
have never flown a plane that had it, and never noticed it missing. Any
thoughts?
Todd Osborne
Internet E-Mail: todd(at)toddtown.com
AOL Messenger: toddosborn
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Philip Polstra" <ppolstra(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: About Hinges and Safety Wire and Aileron Trim |
I have my 601 wired for aileron trim, and I have the parts. I just haven't
installed it yet. It doesn't really seem all that essential. I will
probably install it when I take the plane down for painting.
Phil Polstra
721PT Stratus-powered 601HDS 5.9 hours so far
http://www.philsflying.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: About Hinges and Safety Wire and Aileron Trim |
| From: | "Tom Wood" <twood(at)ucf.k12.pa.us> |
I am building an XL and decided to wire for it just in case, but not make
it or install the trim tab yet.
I will only add it if needed.
Tom
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Fothergill <mfothergill(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: About Hinges and Safety Wire and Aileron Trim |
Hi Todd;
I find .025 wire to be useful for most applications, although I also
have .020 and 032. on hand.
Three of us local owners installed aileron trim very soon after our
initial flights. The slightest out of trim gets very tirin on a longer
flight and it is nice to fly hands off in smooth air. (Even weight
shifting for minor control)
Mike
C-FRND CH-601HDS
UHS Spinners
Todd Osborne wrote:
>
>
> After messing up a hinge trying the "crush the end" method, I have decided
> to drill the ends of my hinges and use safety wire. What size wire should I
> buy? On a somewhat related subject, what is the general thought on electric
> aileron trim for the 601? I am having a hard time justifying it, since I
> have never flown a plane that had it, and never noticed it missing. Any
> thoughts?
>
> Todd Osborne
> Internet E-Mail: todd(at)toddtown.com
> AOL Messenger: toddosborn
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Austin" <daveaustin2(at)sprint.ca> |
| Subject: | Fw: Aileron and elevator trim |
Sent directly to Todd..
Dave Austin 601HDS - 912
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave Austin" <daveaustin2(at)sprint.ca>
Subject: Aileron and elevator trim
> Todd, I would strongly recommend installing both aileron and elevator trim
> if you plan to do any distance flying at all, and particularly if you fly
> with a passenger sometimes. There is nothing worse than having to counter
> an out-of-trim situation continuously. A well trimed 601 will fly
virtually
> hands-off. It also makes for much better approach slopes and landings.
> Dave Austin 601HDS - 912 - 495 hrs
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Gower <ggower_99(at)yahoo.com> |
Two things:
1.- yesterday we got our two 701 kits delivered and
got everything out of the huge box... we got home at
1:00 am. We are so happy!
2.- This is a great page (in english) about the
Flying Flea.
http://www.flyingflea.org/
Yes, there you will read that I built one (made from
ladders, yes aluminum extension ladders) and I am
learning to fly it, I just made my first flight. If
raining season waits here a little more, I will be
able to continue my flying in the dry lake...
The Flying Flea is a wonderfull airplane and the
modern versions are great! There have been lots of
improvements in Europe and Australia since the first
one in 1936.
Saludos
Gary Gower
--- Wayne McMullen wrote:
>
>
> I think he means "The Flying Flea".
>
http://www.netwiz.net/~mdaniels/flyingflea/gallery.html
>
> Wayne
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Garrou, Douglas" <dgarrou(at)hunton.com>
> To:
> Subject: Zenith-List: The Flying Flee?
>
>
> Douglas"
> >
> > Chris Heintz's comments on the Sport Pilot NPRM
> can be viewed at:
> >
> >
>
http://dms3000.dot.gov/docimages/pdf80/161570_web.pdf
> >
> > He seems strangely interested in the "Flying Flee"
> design, whatever that
> > is... Hmm.... I wonder what he has on the drawing
> board....
> >
> > Doug G.
> > Project 801
> > p.s. For the non-US crowd, the NPRM is a "notice
> of proposed rulemaking."
> > Basically our body governing aviation, the FAA,
> promulgates a proposed
> rule,
> > and then solicits comments from the regulated
> community. Theoretically
> the
> > FAA responds to those comments in the final rule,
> explaining why they are
> > adopting or ignoring the suggestions. This time
> the FAA let people submit
> > their comments online, which was a really cool
> thing for them to do.
> >
> >
>
>
>
> Contributions of
> any other form
>
> latest messages.
> other List members.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/search
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
http://launch.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Morelli <billvt(at)together.net> |
| Subject: | Re: About Hinges and Safety Wire and Aileron Trim |
Phil,
I wouldn't call it essential either but great to have. In my HDS I have LE
wing tanks. If I fly solo and the left LE tank is full and right LE tank
empty, it requires a good amount of right aileron trim. If I have a heavy
passenger and right LE tank full, left empty it requires a good amount of
left aileron trim. Mind you I'm not talking where you could not fly without
the trim but you would have to keep pressure on the stick to keep her
flying straight. I do try to keep the fuel balanced between the two LE
tanks when possible but the passenger load makes quite a difference.
That's my two cents worth.
Regards,
Bill (N812BM - HDS - Tri - Stratus - Vermont - 133.5 flight hrs. - 205
landings)
web site -> http://homepages.together.net/~billvt/
>I have my 601 wired for aileron trim, and I have the parts. I just haven't
>installed it yet. It doesn't really seem all that essential. I will
>probably install it when I take the plane down for painting.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Damien Graham" <dgraham7(at)twcny.rr.com> |
Group:
I have a leak (or leaks) of coolant. It looks like it is leaking from
the hose that attaches to the back of the engine. I tightened the screws
in the back with an allen wrench, especially #17, which I have been told
could leak. I also replaced the hose and it still looks like it is
leaking from the hose. It seems that the hose will not attach tightly
due to the sharp angle, even though I am using a hose clamp, but I do
not understand why.
Does anyone have any suggestions?
Regards,
Damien (Hope to fly this summer) Graham
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Morelli <billvt(at)together.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Coolant leak |
What type of engine are you asking about?
>I have a leak (or leaks) of coolant. It looks like it is leaking from
>the hose that attaches to the back of the engine. I tightened the screws
>in the back with an allen wrench, especially #17, which I have been told
>could leak. I also replaced the hose and it still looks like it is
>leaking from the hose. It seems that the hose will not attach tightly
>due to the sharp angle, even though I am using a hose clamp, but I do
>not understand why.
>Does anyone have any suggestions?
>Regards,
>Damien (Hope to fly this summer) Graham
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Darryl West (Home)" <rdwest(at)shaw.ca> |
If your engine is a Rotax 912, you might have a corroded pump drain bolt.
This is a defective design issue that is resolved by replacing the cad
plated drain bolt with a stainless one. Newer engines already have the
stainless bolt, I believe.
I went thru a lot of trouble to fix mine last year. It broke off inside when
I tried (lightly) to tighten it. Let me know if you need some tips & pics.
Darryl
rdwest(at)shaw.ca
http://members.shaw.ca/rdwest/index.htm
Group:
I have a leak (or leaks) of coolant. It looks like it is leaking from
the hose that attaches to the back of the engine. I tightened the screws
in the back with an allen wrench, especially #17, which I have been told
could leak. I also replaced the hose and it still looks like it is
leaking from the hose. It seems that the hose will not attach tightly
due to the sharp angle, even though I am using a hose clamp, but I do
not understand why.
Does anyone have any suggestions?
Regards,
Damien (Hope to fly this summer) Graham
________________________________________________________________________________
Wrom: YLEJGDGVCJVTLBXFGGMEPYOQKEDOTWFAOBUZXUWLSZLK
| Subject: | 701 fuselage stiffeners |
| From: | johnbirgiolas(at)hotmail.com |
I am building the 701 fuselage and wondering about the l stiffeners
placed in an x or diagonal to prevent oil-canning. I have checked the
archives and have noticed the x pattern, diagonal, and none at all.
Would like advice in this matter.
John Birgiolas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Damien Graham" <dgraham7(at)twcny.rr.com> |
The engine is a Rotax 912 F-3.
Thanks.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Phil Maxson" <pmaxpmax(at)hotmail.com> |
>I found an interesting trick tonight tho, using my hand riveter
>that I bought from ZAC. It has been getting "loose" and taking WAY too many
>pulls to set a rivet. Seems like it just not grab like it used to. The
>solution? Loosen the tip about a turn, so that it is not snug on the tool.
>I have no idea why this works, but it does, and works great.
My experience is that solution will only work for a short while. What is
happening is the oil inside is leaking slowly out. Every once in a while I
have to take the bottom off and drip some more oil into the reservoir.
Phil Maxson
601XL - Using the ZAC supplied air rivet puller
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Philip Polstra" <ppolstra(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | REFLECTOR: Sanding through EAA's Skull |
Sanding through EAA's SkullI thought my fellow builders would appreciate
this letter that another builder forwarded to me.
Due to Avictimco's policy on insuring homebuilts one of the Velocity
builders sent the following letter to Uncle Tom.
May 12, 2002
Mr. Tom Poberezny, Publisher
Experimental Aviation Association - Sport Aviation
P.O. Box 3086
Oshkosh, WI 54903-3086
Dear Mr. Poberezny & Colleagues,
"EAA's Peripheral Blindness" on insurance is now a case study in my lectures
I am the author of marketing texts adopted by several hundred universities
(internationally) with case studies focusing on myopic management practices.
I have a Ph.D. in communications research, and I consult dozens of
professors and teach hundreds of graduate and undergraduate students the
principles of strategic marketing communications. I still have a fondness
in my heart for EAA because of past experiences, but alas, that fondness is
waning.
I can no longer continue blithely sanding away on my composite airplane
without attempting to sand a bit on your skull. Please don't misunderstand;
I sand only with the hope that I might eventually penetrate intelligent gray
matter. The sad irony is that EAA appears oblivious to its own peripheral
blindness. For over a year now, hundreds of homebuilders believe their
insurance problem is rooted deep inside the EAA institution itself. Despite
a few carefully worded public relations efforts, your management has thus
far failed to identify the key problem expressed so elegantly by one of our
fellow builders:
"EAA is no longer a brotherhood of homebuilders, it is a corporation in
every sense of the word."
Lecture Title: Loss of a Single Member has Exponential Consequences
I tell my students that many institutions think of sales or membership dues
as peripheral transactions rather than steps in building lifelong
relationships. Sadly, the EAA hasn't accounted for the lifelong value of
each member's relationship; instead you think one discontented member
represents the cost of a single dues-paying member. Quite the contrary.
Recent research (2002, Duncan & Moriarty, University of Colorado), has found
that the average dissatisfied member tells nine to ten friends about the
experience. Each of those tells another ten people, ad infinitum. This
eventually compounds the single grievance exponentially.
I count at least 50 dissatisfied EAA members in our homebuilding community
(a very conservative estimate). Assuming each of us tells ten people, EAA's
problem is no longer an isolated, disenfranchised member. He/she has grown
exponentially into hundreds, and eventually thousands. I alone tell
thousands nation-wide in my lectures, textbooks and case studies using EAA
as an example of an institution that is losing the trust of many members.
Do the math, and you'll see the problem grows exponentially over time.
If EAA is indeed committed to relationship building, you will take the
insurance crisis as a significant problem that will not be repaired with
press releases and veiled apologies. Consider the humble builder who has
mortgaged his home to fulfill his dream; he looks up to you as his advocate.
As one of a brotherhood of thousands like him, he trusts you to make the
hard management decisions. If that means breaking ties with a long-time
"friend" like Avemco, he trusts you will do what's best for him, not for EAA
corporate alliances. Indeed, there are enough homebuilders that we are
capable of funding our own insurance program if we band together. Or, we
will find another alliance who will get the job done.
Dare to think boldly, Mr. Poberezny. Dare to think about the
disenfranchised (perhaps only a thousand or so now) who are losing faith in
the EAA. They have a significant voice, and they talk frequently with other
homebuilders at fly-ins, on the Internet, and in FBO hangars nation-wide.
If you refuse to respond to constructive criticism, it will only weaken the
foundation of a once-valued institution that represented the humble,
penny-wise homebuilder who needed an advocate, and chose you. Whatever your
motivation, it would be sad to see you loose your family's own humble,
democratic roots because you failed to recognize your institution's own
peripheral blindness.
Sincerely,
Dennis G. Martin, Ph.D.
Professor of Communications
Brigham Young University
ADVERTISEMENT
view archives and files at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/eaa268
Visit 268 website at http://www.geocities.com/eaa268/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Fothergill <mfothergill(at)sympatico.ca> |
Hi;
Another method is to install a washer under the tip. Vary the thickness
to get the best grip and release of the stem.
Mike
CH-601HDS
UHS Spinners
Todd Osborne wrote:
>
>
> I have heard good things about the one ZAC sells, but I have not tried it
> myself. I found an interesting trick tonight tho, using my hand riveter
> that I bought from ZAC. It has been getting "loose" and taking WAY too many
> pulls to set a rivet. Seems like it just not grab like it used to. The
> solution? Loosen the tip about a turn, so that it is not snug on the tool.
> I have no idea why this works, but it does, and works great.
>
> Todd
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Peter Chapman <pchapman(at)ionsys.com> |
| Subject: | splice plate replacement instructions questions |
I'm finally getting around to doing the replacement of my rear splice
plates with insufficient edge distances.
The instructions that came with the bulletin are a bit confusing in spots.
Most errors aren't that serious, but there are a couple major ones I could
use feedback on.
Minor issues:
1) There's a clearly incorrect drill bit size, "7.4mm" in one place should
be "7.8mm". This has been mentioned on the list.
2) It's not clear if there are two alternative part numbers for some drill
bits, or whether one p/n applies to the drill bushing and the other to the
drill itself. The answer will be clear if I check part numbers on-line at
the companies listed.
3) Some items are listed twice -- to show the different companies' part
numbers, I guess.
4) In drilling out the 3/8" holes, the instructions mention using the drill
guide, then the 1/4" drill. But the 1/8" drill would have to be used in
between those steps, because the drill guide has a 1/8" inner diameter.
5) The list of parts omits the 1/4" bit and 5/16" bit, although these are
mentioned in the instructions
Major issues:
6) What is the "wire gauge #7" used for? It's listed in the parts but not
the instructions. Or is that just a duplicate listing of the #7 drill bit,
that happens to use a "wire gauge" sizing?
7) Step #8 of the instructions is not clear to me. It's the last step:
After both the 3/8" and 5/16" holes are finished with the chucking reamers,
step #8 mentions putting the rear and front plates together, and doing some
drilling and reaming. I'm guessing they mean to repeat the drilling process
all over again, IF one has to construct new FRONT plates, using one's new
rear plates as the template. But almost nobody has to build new front
plates. Is this the correct interpretation?
My rear plates are out of spec, with less than 10mm for that dimension "d".
The kit was from Midland, Ontario in late 1995. To avoid going to the heavy
steel plates, but to have enough material around the bolts, I'll put on
3/16" rear plates rather than the usual 1/8" for my HDS. That'll increase
weight by 50% rather than ~190% which it would be for steel plates (without
the optional lightening hole).
I'll order the 3/16" HD plates, and cut down one edge to fit the HDS's spar
taper. Chris Heintz OK'd using 3/16" plates; after all they work for the
HD. I think I'll have have enough length on my spar bolts to accommodate
the extra 1/16"; otherwise longer bolts will be needed.
Peter Chapman
Toronto, ON 601 HDS / 912 / C-GZDC
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | First engine Start Question/Opinion |
Hi List,
I am ready to do a test start on my engine any time I desire. The engine is
mounted and all electrical is run and theoretically after all fluids are
added I should be able to turn the Key and Crank her up...Kind of
exciting....
However, There is some disagreement between me and a friend who is helping me
build as to if it is OK to start the engine. His concerns revolve around the
fact that my fuselage is not riveted along the top longeron from where the
Instrument Panel is to the firewall. Everything aft of the firewall below
the top longeron from the firewall back is riveted. My friend thinks that if
I start the engine without being completely buttoned up that there will be
too much rotational stress placed on the longerons and he thinks I should
wait until the entire front end is closed.
I disagree because I think we need to start the engine before the top front
skin is in place in case there are things we need to do between the IP and
the firewall after the engine is tested for the first time. By my friends
reasoning we won;t be able to start the engine until literally just before it
is ready to fly. To me, this seems like over kill, but since I am
inexperienced in these matters I thought I would put it to the list for
comment. In speaking to Roger at the factory he indicated it should be fine
to start now, but my friend still disagreed.
Aside from this issue, can anyone give any suggestions or ideas for what to
look for or extra special precautions to take for the first engine start? I
am using the Stratus Subaru. It has been covered in my hangar for going on
2.5 years. I sure thought I was going to finish this thing sooner!
Comments?
Steve (I really want to start it, but am willing to wait) Freeman
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Schemmel, Grant" <Grant.Schemmel(at)utmc.aeroflex.com> |
| Subject: | First engine Start Question/Opinion |
>snip<
Aside from this issue, can anyone give any suggestions or ideas for what to
look for or extra special precautions to take for the first engine start? I
am using the Stratus Subaru. It has been covered in my hangar for going on
2.5 years. I sure thought I was going to finish this thing sooner!
Comments?
Steve (I really want to start it, but am willing to wait) Freeman
Hi Steve,
I'd say go for it, as long as you don't try anything like a full power run-up.
I tried it after my first start, with no ill effects that I could tell. My front
top-skin is held on by screws and nut-clips, and I had to have it off in
order do some vac troubleshooting and adjustments. When I put the skin back on,
everything still lined up.
Good luck
Grant Schemmel
601hds - O-200 (inspection this weekend!)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Birgiolas" <johnbirgiolas(at)hotmail.com> |
I have to start thinking about painting the 701. I have used zinc
chromate in the flying surfaces and marhyde in the fuselage. The
exterior of the aircraft is not prepared in any way. Any suggestions on
paints that can be applied by me in a home made garage paintbooth?
There are all sorts of suggestions in the archives and I would be
particularly interested in what to avoid. Thanks in advance..
John Birgiolas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Liming <gary(at)liming.org> |
I bought the air hydraulic riveter from Harbor Freight for around $50
>(Central Pneumatic brand). I've been using it since I started building my
>project with no problems.
I bought the ZAC air riveter ($80, I think) and have no problems, but the
latest rev of the fuse manuals says it has a 90 psi max, and that any more
pressure may crack the casing. It warns you about this because 90 lbs may
not be enough to pull the AS-5 stainless steel rivets used on the firewall,
and recommends a large hand riveter for another $20 (picture on
www.liming.org/ch801/tools.html . If the Harbor Freight blue on for $50
(even cheaper on sale, I think) can pull the steel rivets it is probably
the better deal. Anyone have anything negative to say about the Harbor
Freight one?
Gary Liming
801
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Liming <gary(at)liming.org> |
| Subject: | Re: 701 fuselage stiffeners |
>I am building the 701 fuselage and wondering about the l stiffeners
>placed in an x or diagonal to prevent oil-canning. I have checked the
>archives and have noticed the x pattern, diagonal, and none at all.
I noticed the 701 from the Czech Air works they had at SunNFun had
diagonals on the top of the fuse. I am thinking about adding those to my
801, but for now have decided to wait to see if there really is that much
popping from the fuse its easy to add later through the access door. I
know I've heard it on the demo 801, but I don't know if its from the fuse
or the wings.
Gary Liming
801
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James Brigman" <jbrigman(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Pneumatic Riveter |
>
> I am shopping for a air rivet gun. House of Tools has a good sale
> on an air riveter ... Has anybody had any
> experience with this product. I have heard some of their air tools can be
> poor quality. What is a good brand of air riveter to buy?
Brain;
I suspect it's the same thing sold by Harbor Freight tools:
www.harborfreight.com. Search for "air riveter" in the search blank and
you'll get two models, a cheaper one and a more expensive one. The more
expensive one will do huge blind rivets, I think the big fat A6's? The
cheaper one won't. I got the cheaper one on sale (under $40US) and it works
great, does a fine job. It's my personal belief these are the same products
that USATCO sells for much more.
They are all made in the pacific rim or china at those prices, and they seem
to be just fine for our kinds of work. I'm happy with the rivets I've set
with mine. There's about a 100 rivet "break-in" period. You don't get
other-continent quality until you go way over $100. I'm not sure it's worth
it for building a plane in a non-production mode.
JKB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mark Wood <mawood(at)zoo.uvm.edu> |
I am at about the same point at John as far as getting ready to paint. I
have been looking at acrylic latex as the paint. It sounds to me like latex
would be lighter, cheaper and easier to put on. I would very much
appreciate any input from the list.
Mark Wood
601HD with an O-200
>I have to start thinking about painting the 701. I have used zinc
>chromate in the flying surfaces and marhyde in the fuselage. The
>exterior of the aircraft is not prepared in any way. Any suggestions on
>paints that can be applied by me in a home made garage paintbooth?
>There are all sorts of suggestions in the archives and I would be
>particularly interested in what to avoid. Thanks in advance..
> John Birgiolas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RoyN9869L(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Oil Canning of CH-701 |
I'm still looking for a CH-701 but in the meantime I fly a Grumman AA1B 160
hp rocket. The guy who invented This aircraft Jim Bede used 3/8" styrofoam
10"x10" blocks RTV'd to the skin between the bays both in the fuselage and in
the wings. No oilcan effect whatsoever. On Grumman aircraft there are no
rivet unless they were added. Perhaps this should be considered, a lot
cheaper, less work involved, and looks better, only a suggestion, Cheers
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cleone Markwell <cleone(at)rr1.net> |
| Subject: | Re: First engine Start Question/Opinion |
>
>Hi List,
>
>I am ready to do a test start on my engine any time I desire. The engine is
>mounted and all electrical is run and theoretically after all fluids are
>added I should be able to turn the Key and Crank her up...Kind of
>exciting....
>
>One thing that happened to me was that my engine started just fine but
would not stop. Fortunately the fuel transfer valve allowed me to shut off
the fuel and it takes a while to empty the carb. Check out those ignition
leads and make sure they ground out both . Also it would have been nice
if I could have had room to turn around and not have had to hold brakes
hard all the time because the idle rpm was too high. A tie down or
chocks is recommended. I have to admit that I didn't take all the
precautions and was lucky!
cleone=======================================================================
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Schemmel, Grant" <Grant.Schemmel(at)utmc.aeroflex.com> |
I am at about the same point at John as far as getting ready to paint. I
have been looking at acrylic latex as the paint. It sounds to me like latex
would be lighter, cheaper and easier to put on. I would very much
appreciate any input from the list.
*************
Don't know if this stuff will work or not, but check out www.novacolorpaint.com.
They have artist supply acrylic latex paint, including translucent and pearlescent
colors. It's available in gallon size quantities too. One drawback is that
you will probably have to put some kind of clearcoat on it, as they claim water
resistant, but not proof.
There was an interesting article in Custom Planes last month about using latex
paints.
Grant Schemmel
N602GS - 601hds - o-200 (not painting mine until after the bugs are worked out)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: First engine Start Question/Opinion |
| From: | Greg P Jannakos <gpjann(at)juno.com> |
If your a member of EAA, please get with a Tech Counselor and Flight
Advisor for help.
writes:
>
> >
> >Hi List,
> >
> >I am ready to do a test start on my engine any time I desire. The
> engine is
> >mounted and all electrical is run and theoretically after all
> fluids are
> >added I should be able to turn the Key and Crank her up...Kind of
> >exciting....
> >
> >One thing that happened to me was that my engine started just fine
> but
> would not stop. Fortunately the fuel transfer valve allowed me to
> shut off
> the fuel and it takes a while to empty the carb. Check out those
> ignition
> leads and make sure they ground out both . Also it would have been
> nice
> if I could have had room to turn around and not have had to hold
> brakes
> hard all the time because the idle rpm was too high. A tie down
> or
> chocks is recommended. I have to admit that I didn't take all the
> precautions and was lucky!
>
cleone===================================================================
====
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
> messages.
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Weber" <chrisoz(at)gmx.net> |
| Subject: | First engine start |
> However, There is some disagreement between me and a friend who is helping
me
> build as to if it is OK to start the engine. His concerns revolve around
the
> fact that my fuselage is not riveted along the top longeron from where the
> Instrument Panel is to the firewall. Everything aft of the firewall below
> the top longeron from the firewall back is riveted. My friend thinks that
if
> I start the engine without being completely buttoned up that there will be
> too much rotational stress placed on the longerons and he thinks I should
> wait until the entire front end is closed.
Hi Steve,
I ran my 912 with topskin clecoed on and with topskin completely off, full
power, with no problems whatsoever. With the topskin off the throttle tends
to get caught, as the instrument panel flaps in the slipstream.
IMHO you have to run the engine while you can still take the skin off, so
you can sort out those problems with electrics, throttle etc.
> From: "Fred or Sandy Hulen" <hulens61(at)birch.net>
> Subject: Re: Zenith-List: First engine Start Question/Opinion
>
>
> Before firing up the engine, here's another thing to consider.... I asked
> my EAA Technical Councilor about firing up my engine when it became
apparent
> that I was far enough along to do so. He said that I could do it, but to
be
> advised that I was going to blow some oil vapor out which would likely
find
> it's way in to some of the overlapping seams of the metal panels and
around
> the base of rivets, which would complicate my clean-up and paint prep.
> Soooo, I'm waiting till it's painted.
>
> Fred
Hi Fred,
my plane is not painted at this stage and I've got insect-goo,
grass-cuttings, probably the mentioned oil-vapor and last not least, the
champagne from the first flight on my panels and the base of my rivets. I'll
probably paint it in a year or two, and don't loose any sleep about residue
before painting. Get a decent prep-wash and you'll get it off. And relax,
Murphy's Law decrees that you'll most probably scratch the paintjob badly
straight away.
No, seriously, you want to run that engine before you paint it, in case you
have any changes to make and panels to stiffen. After my first taxi I put
additional rivets in the forward fuse to get rid of the worst oil-canning
konk-konks, you'll know what I mean once you taxi on a grass strip.
Happy building,
Chris Weber
601 TD 912, 35 hours and the first cross countrys are fun
actually, she handles turbulence quite nicely, just wriggles her bum a bit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robin Gould <rgould1(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: First engine Start Question/Opinion |
Steve,
Some people like to "pre oil" an engine, that has been sitting for some
time, before starting it. One way is by pulling the spark plugs an
spinning over the engine with the starter until you see
oil pressure on the gauge. This may take 10 to 15 seconds or more of
cranking. Doing this assures that your oil system is full and "primed"
so you will have oil pressure in case on the "first" startup, your
engine sees sudden unplanned, excess, RPM.
By the way this process is best done before the engine is fueled up. If
not, Caution: there might be a combustible mixture of fuel and air
coming out of the open plug holes if the fuel system is fully
functional. If fuel is present, take a few prudent measures, either keep
the ends of the plug wires away from grounding points or disable the
ignition, during any plugs out cranking.
You have already started it, well Good Luck anyway,
Rob G.
>>
>>Hi List,
>>
>>I am ready to do a test start on my engine any time I desire. The engine is
>>mounted and all electrical is run and theoretically after all fluids are
>>added I should be able to turn the Key and Crank her up...Kind of
>>exciting....
>>
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RoyN9869L(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Zenith-List Digest: 8 Msgs - 05/17/02 |
Mark,
I do not by a long shot profess to be an expert when it comes to painting
but I have painted a PA-11 (Dope and Fabric), a Cessna 150, and my personal
aircraft a Cozy III and a Grumman Yankee AA1B. On the C-150 I used IMRON and
nearly died using this stuff and I was using all the recommended safety
equipment. The Cozy and Yankee was with Automotive DuPont CENTARI (I may add
at 1/3 the cost) I used a gloss hardener and got the best WET LOOK I have
ever seen. These craft after 4 years have held up well. The Yankee has small
paint chips on the leading edge of the wings due to landing and take offs
from gravel runways. The fix is very simple, wet/dry 320 grit to feather the
damaged area and touch up the area. BTW I used a HVLP spray system. I guess
it all boils down to this, You have put in a lot of blood and sweat into
building your dream and only YOU will ever know every technicality, nut and
bolts of your project and people looking at your dream machine will only see
the finished paint job, now not the time to save a buck $$$$$ Go quality and
you will not regret it
R. Roy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Bollinger <o2bhvnbnd(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | CH701 Plans Updates |
I have been lurking on the list for awhile trying to
get serious about building. Went to the rudder
workshop, so at least I have something started. Maybe
if I get more involved in this list instead of just
reading it might help the building process. Anyway, I
haven't seen this brought up, but for those who have
purchased the new fourth edition 701 plans there have
been about 360 changes and updates since the first
printing. Obviously, most are minor and these can be
seen on the Zenith website. Called Linda at the
factory about purchasing a clean set and told me they
would sell me a current printing for $20. Will
probably do this when it looks like 99% of the errors
are corrected. Until then will just use my set of
fourth edition third printing plans and double check
everything against the update list.
Brian B. (CH701)
http://launch.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ken Mattsson" <ken.mattsson(at)helsinki.fi> |
| Subject: | Re: CH701 Plans Updates |
> From: Brian Bollinger <o2bhvnbnd(at)yahoo.com>
> Subject: Zenith-List: CH701 Plans Updates
> purchased the new fourth edition 701 plans there have
> been about 360 changes and updates since the first
> printing. Obviously, most are minor and these can be
> seen on the Zenith website. Called Linda at the
> factory about purchasing a clean set and told me they
> would sell me a current printing for $20. Will
> probably do this when it looks like 99% of the errors
> are corrected. Until then will just use my set of
> fourth edition third printing plans and double check
> everything against the update list.
> Brian B. (CH701)
Brian,
I also have the first printing of the 4th ed., waited until they would be available,
as I knew they would update these with all the corrections (a lot) that
had to be made to the 3rd ed plans.
So, I wasnt too happy myself when I discovered that these new drawings needed changes,
a list 12 pages long!
I wrote to ZAC about this some time ago, and asked for the possibility of an affordable
update to a "clean set" as you call it, got an answer from Nick Heinz
that they hadnt made a decision regarding this yet. Im happy to hear they now
offer builders new prints for a reasonable cost.
I will do just like you, start with small things from the drawings, like the ribs,
and when Im sure of going through with this project, Ill buy the corrected
plans set. By then most things probably will be incorporated in the plans.
Now, it seems funny that they didnt get the first 4th ed plans in shape from the
beginning, BUT the fact that they follow up on reported faults, make corrections
lists AND incorporate these in newer printings, is to me a sign of professionality
to be applauded. As long as they offer upgrades for a reasonable cost
to people who already have payed for the 4th ed plans, not asking people to
pay for the rights to build the plane for a second time. Now they seem to have
made a very good decision and do just what a good company should do, nice!
Ken
Finland
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RoyN9869L(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: CH701 Plans Updates |
Hi Ken,
Geez, I was ready to send ZAC a check for a set of plans but if you guys
are having all these changes to plans, maybe I should rethink this CH-701
project until those folks get it right, any input to that? thanks
R. Roy
Might be a new builder?????
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "J. Davis" <jd(at)lri.sjhc.london.on.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: CH701 Plans Updates |
On Sun, 19 May 2002 RoyN9869L(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Geez, I was ready to send ZAC a check for a set of plans but if you guys
> are having all these changes to plans, maybe I should rethink this CH-701
> project until those folks get it right, any input to that?
Just be *really* careful not to accidentally get a glimpse of some
Sonex plans, you might decide a low wing would be OK.... ;')
>
> R. Roy
> Might be a new builder?????
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
Regards, J.
flying: Zenair STOL CH701/582 C-IGGY , >150 hrs.
building: Sonex #325, engine undecided, probably Jabiru 3300/6/120hp
| J. Davis, M.Sc. (comp_sci) | email: jd(at)uwo.ca |
| SysMgr, research programmer | voice: (519) 646 6100 x64166 |
| Lawson Research Institute | fax: (519) 646 6135 |
| London, Ontario | lriweb.sjhc.london.on.ca/~jd |
"Debt can be a powerful asset."
-- Merrill-Lynch radio ad
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hal Rozema <hartist1(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: CH701 Plans Updates |
OK I'm going to say it. I'll really stir up the hornets nest.... I think you
guys with "X" year old plans that haven't been updated... AND you guys that are
looking for perfection before you buy plans are looking for some personal reason
to not get on with the project.
For comparison... get on Jodel, Vans, or other homebuilt lists. You have NO
problems compared to theirs.
My advise. Stop writing. Start building. Or go rent a Cessna. Geez. is right
Hal
CH701 240 hrs bldg tail and right wing done
<http://theplanefolks.net>
"J. Davis" wrote:
>
> On Sun, 19 May 2002 RoyN9869L(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> >
> > Geez, I was ready to send ZAC a check for a set of plans but if you guys
> > are having all these changes to plans, maybe I should rethink this CH-701
> > project until those folks get it right, any input to that?
>
> Just be *really* careful not to accidentally get a glimpse of some
> Sonex plans, you might decide a low wing would be OK.... ;')
>
> >
> > R. Roy
> > Might be a new builder?????
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
> --
> Regards, J.
>
> flying: Zenair STOL CH701/582 C-IGGY , >150 hrs.
> building: Sonex #325, engine undecided, probably Jabiru 3300/6/120hp
>
> | J. Davis, M.Sc. (comp_sci) | email: jd(at)uwo.ca |
> | SysMgr, research programmer | voice: (519) 646 6100 x64166 |
> | Lawson Research Institute | fax: (519) 646 6135 |
> | London, Ontario | lriweb.sjhc.london.on.ca/~jd |
>
> "Debt can be a powerful asset."
> -- Merrill-Lynch radio ad
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Herren" <wmdherren(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Zenith-List Digest: 2 Msgs - 05/18/02 |
>
List: While on the subject of paint - I have seen the Sonex flying
unpainted. Is this for some reason a bad idea for the Zodiac XL?
I'd also second Roy's statement on the need for a supplied air respirator
with Imron - If you don't have access to the respirator - DON'T use Imron.
Great finish, but not a finish to die for. (But one you could die from)
Bill in Lousyana waiting for the XL Taildragger.
>
>Mark,
>
> I do not by a long shot profess to be an expert when it comes to
>painting
>but I have painted a PA-11 (Dope and Fabric), a Cessna 150, and my personal
>aircraft a Cozy III and a Grumman Yankee AA1B. On the C-150 I used IMRON
>and
>nearly died using this stuff and I was using all the recommended safety
>equipment. The Cozy and Yankee was with Automotive DuPont CENTARI (I may
>add
>at 1/3 the cost) I used a gloss hardener and got the best WET LOOK I have
>ever seen. These craft after 4 years have held up well. The Yankee has
>small
>paint chips on the leading edge of the wings due to landing and take offs
>from gravel runways. The fix is very simple, wet/dry 320 grit to feather
>the
>damaged area and touch up the area. BTW I used a HVLP spray system. I
>guess
>it all boils down to this, You have put in a lot of blood and sweat into
>building your dream and only YOU will ever know every technicality, nut
>and
>bolts of your project and people looking at your dream machine will only
>see
>the finished paint job, now not the time to save a buck $$$$$ Go quality
>and
>you will not regret it
>
>R. Roy
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Hartl" <pdhartl(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | New Zodiac Simulations for FS2002 |
Fellow Zodiac Builders,
I'm a 601 HDS Stratus EA-81 builder with a penchant for Flight
Simulator. I've made a number of commercial Flight Sim aircraft
add-on products in the past ("FS Flight Deck" published by Abacus
Software was my biggest hit) and I recently made a new set of
Zodiacs for FS2002, including HDS trikes and taildraggers, HD
trikes and taildraggers and an HD amphibian, all now available for
free download at Zenith's Website, specifically
http://www.zenithair.com/misc/flightsim02.html
(XL builders - I should also have trike and taildragger versions of the
CH601XL up by June 1, 2002)
I've made FS98 and FS2000 versions of Zodiacs and CH2000s for
Zenith before, and some of that work is on the Zenith website, but
these are new, with many new paint schemes, a new "virtual
cockpit" , new taildraggers and amphib versions, new small
animation features, plus detailed instructions on how to repaint any
version to the user's liking - a feature I added so other builders can
test their paint schemes in 3D flight ahead of time. (If you have
trouble with my repaint instructions, feel free to email me - I'm not
that great of a technical writer)
I also tried hard to "tune" these FS2002 flight models to reflect the
flight characteristics of each Zodiac variant, although that's a little
difficult, given that my Zodiac is (optimistically) 50% finished, and I
cannot get FS2002 to realistically simulate stalls - unfortunately!
Still, the climb rates, and top speeds should be about right, given
the 100-hp EA-81 as a powerplant. ANY INPUT ON FLIGHT
CHARACTERISTICS FROM ACTUAL FLYING ZODIAC PILOTS
WOULD BE VERY MUCH APPRECIATED - please feel free to
email me with corrections to my approximations (but be kind!).
Hope you simmers enjoy these!
Paul Hartl
P.S. There's a nice fast T-38A Talon at my website (below), too, for
those in a hurry!
Paul Hartl, CEO and President (for life), HartlAir Cyber Industries
FS2002 Aircraft Website: http://home.mindspring.com/~pdhartl/
email: pdhartl(at)mindspring.com
paul_hartl(at)communityschool.org
Paul Hartl
P.O. Box 6481
Ketchum, ID 83340-6481
208-788-9147
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "JNBOLDING1" <JNBOLDING1(at)mail.ev1.net> |
| Subject: | Re: CH701 Plans Updates |
---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
From: Hal Rozema <hartist1(at)cox.net>
Date: Sun, 19 May 2002 08:21:56 -0700
>
>OK I'm going to say it. I'll really stir up the hornets nest.... I think you
>guys with "X" year old plans that haven't been updated... AND you guys that are
>looking for perfection before you buy plans are looking for some personal reason
>to not get on with the project.
>
>For comparison... get on Jodel, Vans, or other homebuilt lists. You have NO
>problems compared to theirs.
>
>My advise. Stop writing. Start building. Or go rent a Cessna. Geez. is right
>
>Hal
>CH701 240 hrs bldg tail and right wing done
><http://theplanefolks.>> >
Don't know if that was directed at my post or not but I need no proding from someone
that has a sum total of 240hrs building. I have built 3 homebuilts, restored
a Seabee, Pacer and Champ and have more than 5000 hrs building time but
still don't feel qualified to to tell someone whether or not to build an airplane.
Thats his decision. Respectfully John
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RoyN9869L(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: CH701 Plans Updates |
Thanks, I'll keep that in mind
R. Roy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Bockius" <bruce(at)whiteantelopesoftware.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Zenith-List Digest: 2 Msgs - 05/18/02 |
> List: While on the subject of paint - I have seen the Sonex flying
> unpainted. Is this for some reason a bad idea for the Zodiac
> XL?
I hope not!
http://www.whiteantelopesoftware.com/zodiac/zodiac.jpg
Plane has been (mostly) unpainted and stored (mostly) outside for three
years now. No observable corrosion. Alloy is 6061 which is
considerably more corrosion resistant than other alloys used on most
planes.
-Bruce/601HD/Stratus/TDO/305 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lee Thomas <cltvet(at)mail.ocis.net> |
What are some of you scratch builders of the 701 using for wheel and brake
set ups?
Lee-scratch building a 701
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dale Ward" <adwsail(at)bigfoot.com> |
| Subject: | Re: CH701 Plans Updates/240-5000 hrs |
On 20 May 2002 at 16:22, David Tanner wrote:
>
> They could get the same information if it was sent direct to them instead of
> cluttering up the list.
> READ THE RULES
When "The RULES" potentially compromise safety, I ignore "The Rules".
This isn't the Soviet Union. I am trying to decide on which of several kit
planes I want to spend time building. Seeing the little personal comments
posted here gives me a much better idea of who to pay attention to
versus who to ignore, hence, my concerns over the validity of the answer
and it safety ramifications. I've NEVER seen a NG without at least one
troll talking through his hat.
NG's are great for the exchange of information pertinent to a particular
subject. I want to know who is voicing an opinion that MAY have a major
impact to my decision. I've been lurking here for a month now and will
return to said mode now.
Dale Ward
WB4LIP
Wooden Boat Cold Molding and Restoration
Marine Electronic Systems Design
adwsail(at)bigfoot.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Richter" <wrichter(at)aristotle.net> |
| Subject: | Rivet line extension |
List I need some advice (help).
Putting the right wing nose skin on an 601 HDS.
It states (assembly directions) once the bottom side of the nose skin
has been drilled & clecoed into place to turn the wing over. Use a 2 X
4 board (or several 1 X 4's or 2's) along with straps over the wing ribs
and then extend the rivet line (C/L of the ribs) onto the nose skin.
Here in lies the problem. How do you extend the rivet line when the
boards that you are using interfere with the extension of the rivet
line?
Thanks for the advice in advance.
Bill
do not achieve
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RUSSELL JOHNSON" <entec1(at)pld.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rivet line extension |
> Here in lies the problem. How do you extend the rivet line when the
> boards that you are using interfere with the extension of the rivet
> line?
> Thanks for the advice in advance.
> Bill
>
+++++
After you have strapped the nose skin down tight, make a mark on the edge of
the skin where it lines up with the rear ribs.
Un-strap the skin and connect this mark with the bottom rivet line.
Now raid your wife's sewing kit and "borrow" her fabric tape measure. Most
of them have one side that is metric.
Using this tape measure, record the locations of the crimps in the nose
ribs. Using the holes drilled on the bottom of the skin, transfer these
locations to the wing skin so as to avoid them when drilling.
Now with the holes pre-drilled in the nose skin, and a red "Sharpie" line
drawn on the nose ribs, re-strap the skin, push or pull the ribs into
alignment with the nose skin holes.
The lines don't have to be perfectly in the center of the holes.
Leave a space between the two boards to drill a couple of holes, cleco
these, reposition the board and continue drilling.
When I drilled my nose skin, I had to fabricate some shims for one of the
outer nose ribs, don't recall for sure but believe it was the second one in
from the outboard end.
Russell J./ 601-HDS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jari Kaija" <jari.kaija(at)luukku.com> |
| Subject: | Re: CH701 Plans Updates |
I _have_ to say something too...
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Hal Rozema" <hartist1(at)cox.net>
>To:
>Sent: Sunday, May 19, 2002 6:21 PM
>Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Re: CH701 Plans Updates
----clipclipclip-----
> My advise.
> Stop writing.
Nope... When things are wrong, only stupid, or people who
don't care, keeps his mouth shut up. Can you even think, how
expensive it can be. I mean, drawings says: Use this and this
thicknes, diameter whatever. Okay, I make my over seas order
for these parts, I have to cost overseas shipment, packing and
material, every time, when I order something.
And when there is changes, errors, you name it, I have to pay
all these things again. Material, shipment, packing....
Also, I would like to _BUILD_ my plane, not to hang in
web to see, what I need to change next on my drawings!
> Start building.
All the time...
> Or go rent a Cessna.
I do that too...
> CH701 240 hrs bldg tail and right wing done
Waiting new set of drawings before closing (right) wing and
continuing with fuselage.
-Jari
www.project-ch701.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Fothergill <mfothergill(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: New Zodiac Simulations for FS2002 |
Hi Paul;
Thanks for the CH-601HDS Tail dragger version. This is the configuration
of my C-FRND. It is interesting that yoy set the weight at about 600lbs.
This is close to mine with the 912S but I expect that the Subaru version
would be at least 50 lbs. heavier.
Regards
Mike
CH-601HDS C-FRND
UHS Spinners
Paul Hartl wrote:
>
>
> Fellow Zodiac Builders,
>
> I'm a 601 HDS Stratus EA-81 builder with a penchant for Flight
> Simulator. I've made a number of commercial Flight Sim aircraft
> add-on products in the past ("FS Flight Deck" published by Abacus
> Software was my biggest hit) and I recently made a new set of
> Zodiacs for FS2002, including HDS trikes and taildraggers, HD
> trikes and taildraggers and an HD amphibian, all now available for
> free download at Zenith's Website, specifically
> http://www.zenithair.com/misc/flightsim02.html
>
> (XL builders - I should also have trike and taildragger versions of the
> CH601XL up by June 1, 2002)
>
> I've made FS98 and FS2000 versions of Zodiacs and CH2000s for
> Zenith before, and some of that work is on the Zenith website, but
> these are new, with many new paint schemes, a new "virtual
> cockpit" , new taildraggers and amphib versions, new small
> animation features, plus detailed instructions on how to repaint any
> version to the user's liking - a feature I added so other builders can
> test their paint schemes in 3D flight ahead of time. (If you have
> trouble with my repaint instructions, feel free to email me - I'm not
> that great of a technical writer)
>
> I also tried hard to "tune" these FS2002 flight models to reflect the
> flight characteristics of each Zodiac variant, although that's a little
> difficult, given that my Zodiac is (optimistically) 50% finished, and I
> cannot get FS2002 to realistically simulate stalls - unfortunately!
> Still, the climb rates, and top speeds should be about right, given
> the 100-hp EA-81 as a powerplant. ANY INPUT ON FLIGHT
> CHARACTERISTICS FROM ACTUAL FLYING ZODIAC PILOTS
> WOULD BE VERY MUCH APPRECIATED - please feel free to
> email me with corrections to my approximations (but be kind!).
>
> Hope you simmers enjoy these!
>
> Paul Hartl
>
> P.S. There's a nice fast T-38A Talon at my website (below), too, for
> those in a hurry!
>
> Paul Hartl, CEO and President (for life), HartlAir Cyber Industries
> FS2002 Aircraft Website: http://home.mindspring.com/~pdhartl/
> email: pdhartl(at)mindspring.com
> paul_hartl(at)communityschool.org
>
> Paul Hartl
> P.O. Box 6481
> Ketchum, ID 83340-6481
> 208-788-9147
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Peter Chapman <pchapman(at)ionsys.com> |
| Subject: | Re: First engine start |
At 07:34 18-05-02 , you wrote:
>I ran my 912 with topskin clecoed on and with topskin completely off, full
>power, with no problems whatsoever. With the topskin off the throttle tends
>to get caught, as the instrument panel flaps in the slipstream.
With the top skin off, one can temporarily cleco on an L-angle -- or some
other sort of bracket -- from the firewall to the instrument panel. Then
the panel is secure during runups. Worked for me.
Peter Chapman
Toronto, ON
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Pomaski" <ndsemc(at)ktn.net> |
| Subject: | Flight Training - 701 |
Does anyone know if flight training is available in a 701 in the Pacific
Northwest region, Canada or USA?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Townsend" <601xl(at)sympatico.ca> |
Dear Listers
I'm trying to decide as to how I am going to proceed. I would like to
install all 4 leading edge tanks in my 601XL and I'm going to run a Subaru
Multi Port Fuel injection engine with Turbo. I have found a switch unit for
the cabin which switches from left to right tanks and switches the return
line as well, but How would I plumb the other two tanks? Should I have them
gravity feed into the inboard tanks with a check valve? or install fuel
pumps to pump the fuel into the inboard tanks? Or remove the two ribs
in-between the tanks and make One super tank per wing? Any thoughts?
Mark Townsend
601XL EA-82 MPFI Turbo
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Plumbing |
| From: | Michael R Fortunato <wizard-24(at)juno.com> |
I installed all four leading edge tanks, but admittely have not decided
how the lines should be run (there's a schematic in the XL plans I
think). But I do know that the outboard tank fuel lines do not connect to
the inboard tanks....rather, the lines are designed to run to the cockpit
THROUGH a sleeve welded into the bottom of the inboard tanks. This would
seem to mean that ZAC intends that they be kept separate...and that the
fuel selector be between the inboard and outboard tanks....not
necessarily right and left. This make any sense? Any other XL builder
feel free to chime in. :)
Mike Fortunato
writes:
> <601xl(at)sympatico.ca>
>
> Dear Listers
> I'm trying to decide as to how I am going to proceed. I would like
> to
> install all 4 leading edge tanks in my 601XL and I'm going to run a
> Subaru
> Multi Port Fuel injection engine with Turbo. I have found a switch
> unit for
> the cabin which switches from left to right tanks and switches the
> return
> line as well, but How would I plumb the other two tanks? Should I
> have them
> gravity feed into the inboard tanks with a check valve? or install
> fuel
> pumps to pump the fuel into the inboard tanks? Or remove the two
> ribs
> in-between the tanks and make One super tank per wing? Any thoughts?
>
> Mark Townsend
> 601XL EA-82 MPFI Turbo
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Tanner" <vk3auu(at)vic.australis.com.au> |
| Subject: | Re: CH701 Plans Updates |
To all you buggers who are railing against the drawings.
I and many others have sucessfully built our 701's from the original set of
plans, warts and all . We didn't have all the facilities of the internet
available so we had to use our own brains, we used a bit of common sense,
asked a few questions of ZAC and got the job done.
Get real.
David Tanner
CH701 912UL
200 hours happy flying.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Plumbing |
In a message dated Mon, 20 May 2002 6:40:54 PM Eastern Daylight Time, "Mark Townsend"
<601xl(at)sympatico.ca> writes:
>
>Dear Listers
>I'm trying to decide as to how I am going to proceed. I would like to
>install all 4 leading edge tanks in my 601XL and I'm going to run a Subaru
>Multi Port Fuel injection engine with Turbo. I have found a switch unit for
>the cabin which switches from left to right tanks and switches the return
>line as well, but How would I plumb the other two tanks? Should I have them
>gravity feed into the inboard tanks with a check valve? or install fuel
>pumps to pump the fuel into the inboard tanks? Or remove the two ribs
>in-between the tanks and make One super tank per wing? Any thoughts?
>
>Mark Townsend
>601XL EA-82 MPFI Turbo
>
>
Mark,
I also am going to run a MPFI Turbo EA-82 in my XL, and currently am at the point
of building the fuel tanks. As you mentioned the MPFI system returns the excess
fuel back to the tank, this is a major consideration with the long range
tanks. I looked at several different methods to acomplish this, but in the end
couldn't simplify the process without adding undue weight and cost. The Andair
fuel selector valves are $419.00 each, very nice piece but ouch!
Several builders have tried to just "T" the by-passed fuel back into the main feedline
in front of the fuel filter. They will discover that the high-pressure
pumps used by the MPFI will impart an excessive amount of heat into the fuel.
And by returning this heated fuel to the main feedline they in turn are compounding
the problem. This will lead to a vapor-lock. IMHO a turbocharged engine
requires both the fuel and air charges to be as cold as possible in order
to minimize the detenation potential.
Finally I think I've came across a way to reduce and maybe solve this problem.
I'm going to try routing the return fuel through a modified automatic transmisson
cooler (AN fittings heli-arc welded onto the tubes) to shed this excess heat.
The cooler would be mounted in front of the radiator in order to receive
the maximum cooling potential. I plan on running several tests using water to
determine the best heat transfer rate, balanced between overall size of the
cooler and flow rate.
Although as a backup, I plan on including the provisions in the tanks for the fuel
return.
I wouldn't consider the one large super tank, as the leading edge requires some
support to maintain its shape in flight. You could instead add a transfer passage
between the two tanks. Something in the 2 inch diameter range, this would
allow for reasonable refueling. However, you would need to add several baffles
inside the tanks. In order to control the fuel during a side slip or other
uncoordinated flight.
Sorry for such a long answer.
Bill Cribb
601XL Scratch building
Empenage completed and Both Wing Boxes 80% complete.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Alan Cossitt <alan.cossitt(at)verizon.net> |
Mark,
Unfortunately I don't remember the details...I talked to Matt Dandar at
Recreational Power (Hirth)(www.recpower.com) about how to hook up wing
tanks to a fuel injection system. I plan to install a Hirth engine with
fuel injection in my next airplane (probably a 701) and wanted to see if
it was possible. From what I remember it is possible to rig up a return
style fuel injection so that no valves are needed and all fuel tanks are
automatically balanced by the fuel return. I know that in general you
don't want to have any sort of header tank since the return from the
fuel injection can aereate (sic?) the fuel in a small tank (and can
cause the fuel injection pump to fail, something -trust me, I have had
this experience- you don't want to have happen in flight).
I personally don't want any fuel valves that NEED to be switched since I
know sooner or later that I will forget to switch that valve and my
little airplane will be gliding to the ground. Perhaps someone on the
list knows how to hook up the fuel injection. If not, you might send an
email to Matt.
-Alan Cossitt
-----Original Message-----
From: Mark Townsend [SMTP:601xl(at)sympatico.ca]
Subject: Zenith-List: Fuel Plumbing
Dear Listers
I'm trying to decide as to how I am going to proceed. I would like to
install all 4 leading edge tanks in my 601XL and I'm going to run a
Subaru
Multi Port Fuel injection engine with Turbo. I have found a switch unit
for
the cabin which switches from left to right tanks and switches the
return
line as well, but How would I plumb the other two tanks? Should I have
them
gravity feed into the inboard tanks with a check valve? or install fuel
pumps to pump the fuel into the inboard tanks? Or remove the two ribs
in-between the tanks and make One super tank per wing? Any thoughts?
Mark Townsend
601XL EA-82 MPFI Turbo
=
=
=
http://www.matronics.com/browselist/zenith-list
=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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Townsend" <601xl(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Plumbing |
HI Bill SO Far your the only one that understands the requirement to cool
the fuel before re-introducing it to the engine. I am considering the
Andair fuel selector but it is only designed for 2 tanks with returns. I'm
truly not crazy about the idea of a fuel cooler behind the rad so I think I
will avoid that possibility. I have considered the straight connector tube
between the outboard and inboard tank but hated the idea of trying to
install baffles in the tanks. I was wondering if a check valve of some type
or a fuel pump from outboard to inboard maybe. I really wish I didn't want
to do this but I wanted to get 5-6 hrs flight time from one fueling so that
I could make specific trips without refueling during the leg.
Could I ask where you got your motor mount and what your using for a
re-drive for the higher HP Turbo?
Mark Townsend
EA-82 MPFI Turbo
-----Original Message-----
From: WSCribb(at)aol.com <WSCribb(at)aol.com>
Date: Monday, May 20, 2002 9:19 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Fuel Plumbing
>
>In a message dated Mon, 20 May 2002 6:40:54 PM Eastern Daylight Time, "Mark
Townsend" <601xl(at)sympatico.ca> writes:
>
>>
>>Dear Listers
>>I'm trying to decide as to how I am going to proceed. I would like to
>>install all 4 leading edge tanks in my 601XL and I'm going to run a Subaru
>>Multi Port Fuel injection engine with Turbo. I have found a switch unit
for
>>the cabin which switches from left to right tanks and switches the return
>>line as well, but How would I plumb the other two tanks? Should I have
them
>>gravity feed into the inboard tanks with a check valve? or install fuel
>>pumps to pump the fuel into the inboard tanks? Or remove the two ribs
>>in-between the tanks and make One super tank per wing? Any thoughts?
>>
>>Mark Townsend
>>601XL EA-82 MPFI Turbo
>>
>>
>Mark,
>
>I also am going to run a MPFI Turbo EA-82 in my XL, and currently am at the
point of building the fuel tanks. As you mentioned the MPFI system returns
the excess fuel back to the tank, this is a major consideration with the
long range tanks. I looked at several different methods to acomplish this,
but in the end couldn't simplify the process without adding undue weight and
cost. The Andair fuel selector valves are $419.00 each, very nice piece but
ouch!
>
>Several builders have tried to just "T" the by-passed fuel back into the
main feedline in front of the fuel filter. They will discover that the
high-pressure pumps used by the MPFI will impart an excessive amount of heat
into the fuel. And by returning this heated fuel to the main feedline they
in turn are compounding the problem. This will lead to a vapor-lock. IMHO
a turbocharged engine requires both the fuel and air charges to be as cold
as possible in order to minimize the detenation potential.
>
>Finally I think I've came across a way to reduce and maybe solve this
problem. I'm going to try routing the return fuel through a modified
automatic transmisson cooler (AN fittings heli-arc welded onto the tubes) to
shed this excess heat. The cooler would be mounted in front of the radiator
in order to receive the maximum cooling potential. I plan on running
several tests using water to determine the best heat transfer rate, balanced
between overall size of the cooler and flow rate.
>
>Although as a backup, I plan on including the provisions in the tanks for
the fuel return.
>
>I wouldn't consider the one large super tank, as the leading edge requires
some support to maintain its shape in flight. You could instead add a
transfer passage between the two tanks. Something in the 2 inch diameter
range, this would allow for reasonable refueling. However, you would need
to add several baffles inside the tanks. In order to control the fuel
during a side slip or other uncoordinated flight.
>Sorry for such a long answer.
>
>Bill Cribb
>601XL Scratch building
>Empenage completed and Both Wing Boxes 80% complete.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Hartl" <pdhartl(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | FS2002 Simulations and a question about folding bikes |
Thanks to all for the positive comments about the FS2002 Zodiac
simulations! I hope you enjoy them and find them useful,
especially for testing out different paint schemes.
Per the questions about X-Planes, I'm strictly a Flight Sim aircraft
maker; someone else is welcome to do Zodiacs for X-Planes - I
hope to be busy again with the real thing again as soon as my
students are finished with their finals and graduation is over - June
2nd!
On another track, ....I have a question about folding bikes I hope
someone might be able to answer. The Dahon "Piccolo" is
proported to fold up to a size of 11"x20"x30" at 26 lbs weight
(check out www.dahon.com for their full line of folding bikes). Is it
possible to get two of these things in a Zodiac (and not use the
passenger seat)? The baggage compartment looks a little too tight
for two, so I was wondering if there's any space in the rear fuselage
that might lend itself to a "bike hatch" of these dimensions. Of
course, weight and balance would need to be adjusted, probably by
forward placement of the battery, but I understand the Stratus EA-
81 makes it a bit nose-heavy anyway, so maybe this would work. I
see the "hatch bike" as always being onboard and being part of the
aircraft's permanent weight distribution, and the second bike only
coming along in the baggage compartment when my wife travels
with me. (I also have the wing lockers available for other baggage).
Ideas??
Thanks!
Paul Hartl, 601HDS Stratus Subaru EA-81
Tail, rear fuse, central wing completed; wings next!
FS2002 Aircraft Website: http://home.mindspring.com/~pdhartl/
email: pdhartl(at)mindspring.com or paul_hartl(at)communityschool.org
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Schemmel, Grant" <Grant.Schemmel(at)utmc.aeroflex.com> |
| Subject: | another step done |
Just thought I would share my experience this last weekend with getting my final
airworthiness inspection...
The inspection went way too smooth. The only recommendation the guy had was to
tie up a bundle of wires that crossed the aileron bell crank a little bit tighter,
as they might eventually rub. Other than that, he said I had done a good
job.
The whole inspection lasted maybe 3 hours altogether, what with the conversation
drifting from the zodiac, to other aircraft the inspector had worked on, to
introducing and talking to people that kept wandering by while the inspection
was happening.
The thing I sort of have mixed feelings about, is that the guy never really got
too in depth as far as looking into things. I suspect that if he had seen anything
that was iffy, he might have dug in deeper, but as it was, he seemed to
limit his snooping to casual peering into large openings. I was expecting him
to crawl thru the whole thing with flashlight and mirror in hand. I think he
spent as much time on paperwork as he did on inspecting. This is yet another
reason I think, to have as many people looking at your project as you go along,
as you can get.
One pleasant surprise, was the fly-off time he gave me. I am using an o-200 which
I overhauled myself, and had my A&P buddy look over and sign-off the logs,
along with a prop that I had borrowed from the same guy. The prop was the second
of his that I had borrowed, both of which were wood Univair Flottorp props.
The first one was marked experimental, and I ended up not using it because
the pitch was a bit too steep. He then let me use this other one, and I never
bothered looking at it too close, other than figuring out what the pitch was
(69x50). Turns out that this was a type certificated prop, so with the combination
of certificated engine and prop, I get a 25 hour fly-off time. Way cool.
Anyway, not sure when I'm going flying yet, as I'm (still) waiting for the seats
to come back from the upholsterer, and fixing a few bugs yet. I have a Taskem
digital tach that jumps all over the place at high rpms, and whenever I do
a mag check on the right mag, in spite of complete full braid shielding, and using
a self-powered Westach sender. Going to try a new sender and see if that
fixes things. Also found out that the naca duct I was using to feed the heat
muff was not very heat resistant, as heat coming buck up the duct melted the
dang thing. Gotta build a metal one I guess.
Grant Schemmel
N602GS - 601hds - o-200
Penrose, CO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "P. L. Jenkins" <capt_over(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Plumbing |
Mark,
I would suggest a setup whereby you have two "main" tanks, and two "aux"
tanks. Have the main tanks feed the engine, and have the aux tanks feed the
main tanks by way of a "feed pump", with a check valve to prohibit reverse
feed into the aux tanks.
Paul Jenkins
601HDS - Tail work...
>From: "Mark Townsend" <601xl(at)sympatico.ca>
>Reply-To: zenith-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: Zenith-List: Fuel Plumbing
>Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 18:31:20 -0400
>
>
>Dear Listers
>I'm trying to decide as to how I am going to proceed. I would like to
>install all 4 leading edge tanks in my 601XL and I'm going to run a Subaru
>Multi Port Fuel injection engine with Turbo. I have found a switch unit for
>the cabin which switches from left to right tanks and switches the return
>line as well, but How would I plumb the other two tanks? Should I have them
>gravity feed into the inboard tanks with a check valve? or install fuel
>pumps to pump the fuel into the inboard tanks? Or remove the two ribs
>in-between the tanks and make One super tank per wing? Any thoughts?
>
>Mark Townsend
>601XL EA-82 MPFI Turbo
>
>
Join the worlds largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail.
http://www.hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Weber" <chrisoz(at)gmx.net> |
| Subject: | Here we go again |
Hello Listers,
do you ever get that creeping suspicion that you might miss building once
it's over? Well, my taildragger Zodiac has 35 hours on the clock, and while
the flying is GREAT I still have itchy fingers. As I am looking for work at
the moment and have a fair bit of time on my hands, and can't fly all the
time I went out today and stocked up on tools, getting a compressor,
air-rivet gun, drill-press, I had build my kit in a friends workshop, so I
need all that.
Just to make it a bit more difficult this time I'll scratch build number
two.
I look at my hands, all the cuts are healed, and ask myself wether I really
want to go back there.
Number two will have some more changes from the original design, I want to
put a gull-wing cockpit in, with a higher rear fuse, and put a vertical
stabilizer in, too. Piano hinges for the ailerons.
Haven't made up my mind yet wether to build a HD or HDS, here in Australia
we have a 45 knot limit for Ultralight stall speed, and I might have to
limit the MTOW to 490 kg.
And the HD wing is easier to build.
Much to ponder, guess I'll start with centre section and tail first, and
keep my options open.
Thought I'd let you guys know, as all my friends here think I am short a
shilling.
Cheers,
Chris Weber
Zodiac 601 TD 912, 35 hours
Zodiac 601 TD HD(S), 0%
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rich <rich(at)carol.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Plumbing |
I was going to hook up my 4 tank CH801 the same way per ZAC's recommendation. I
have a Subaru
fuel injection. The return line was going to be 'T'd & returned to the same 2 tanks
from which it
came for both the inboard & outboard.
But then talking to Nick at Sun n Fun, there seems to be a similar situation with
all the 801's
flying, and that is that the left fuel tank always empties faster than the right
by about a half a
tank difference. That's a lot. This is for a gravity setup but it might do the
same to a F/I system
as well. I believe this would be a problem with return lines.
I was told they are working on a solution to this. They are experimenting with
adding fuel tank
vents to different areas of the wing. Possibly the propwash is creating pressure
differences.
Maybe this is why Cessna keeps theirs behind the strut. Can anyone confirm this?
Until I hear from ZAC on a solution, I will be going with a left/right inboard
setup with a pump on
each outboard tank to transfer fuel to the inboard tanks.
Rich
Michael R Fortunato wrote:
>
>
> I installed all four leading edge tanks, but admittely have not decided
> how the lines should be run (there's a schematic in the XL plans I
> think). But I do know that the outboard tank fuel lines do not connect to
> the inboard tanks....rather, the lines are designed to run to the cockpit
> THROUGH a sleeve welded into the bottom of the inboard tanks. This would
> seem to mean that ZAC intends that they be kept separate...and that the
> fuel selector be between the inboard and outboard tanks....not
> necessarily right and left. This make any sense? Any other XL builder
> feel free to chime in. :)
>
> Mike Fortunato
>
> writes:
> > <601xl(at)sympatico.ca>
> >
> > Dear Listers
> > I'm trying to decide as to how I am going to proceed. I would like
> > to
> > install all 4 leading edge tanks in my 601XL and I'm going to run a
> > Subaru
> > Multi Port Fuel injection engine with Turbo. I have found a switch
> > unit for
> > the cabin which switches from left to right tanks and switches the
> > return
> > line as well, but How would I plumb the other two tanks? Should I
> > have them
> > gravity feed into the inboard tanks with a check valve? or install
> > fuel
> > pumps to pump the fuel into the inboard tanks? Or remove the two
> > ribs
> > in-between the tanks and make One super tank per wing? Any thoughts?
> >
> > Mark Townsend
> > 601XL EA-82 MPFI Turbo
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rich <rich(at)carol.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Plumbing |
I did a test with water by returning it to 2 tanks, 'T'd from one line from a pump.
As long as the
lines are the same diameter & the same length, it return equally. Of course this
was on the ground.
In flight it might change. If returned to a fitting near the bottom of the tank
the weight of the
fuel currently in it might act as a balancer, the lighter tank with less fuel should
recieve more
fuel easier & faster than the heavier, fuller tank. I have not tried this. Can
anyone confirm this?
Rich
Mark Townsend wrote:
>
>
> HI Bill SO Far your the only one that understands the requirement to cool
> the fuel before re-introducing it to the engine. I am considering the
> Andair fuel selector but it is only designed for 2 tanks with returns. I'm
> truly not crazy about the idea of a fuel cooler behind the rad so I think I
> will avoid that possibility. I have considered the straight connector tube
> between the outboard and inboard tank but hated the idea of trying to
> install baffles in the tanks. I was wondering if a check valve of some type
> or a fuel pump from outboard to inboard maybe. I really wish I didn't want
> to do this but I wanted to get 5-6 hrs flight time from one fueling so that
> I could make specific trips without refueling during the leg.
> Could I ask where you got your motor mount and what your using for a
> re-drive for the higher HP Turbo?
>
> Mark Townsend
> EA-82 MPFI Turbo
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: WSCribb(at)aol.com <WSCribb(at)aol.com>
> To: zenith-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Monday, May 20, 2002 9:19 PM
> Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Fuel Plumbing
>
> >
> >In a message dated Mon, 20 May 2002 6:40:54 PM Eastern Daylight Time, "Mark
> Townsend" <601xl(at)sympatico.ca> writes:
> >
> >>
> >>Dear Listers
> >>I'm trying to decide as to how I am going to proceed. I would like to
> >>install all 4 leading edge tanks in my 601XL and I'm going to run a Subaru
> >>Multi Port Fuel injection engine with Turbo. I have found a switch unit
> for
> >>the cabin which switches from left to right tanks and switches the return
> >>line as well, but How would I plumb the other two tanks? Should I have
> them
> >>gravity feed into the inboard tanks with a check valve? or install fuel
> >>pumps to pump the fuel into the inboard tanks? Or remove the two ribs
> >>in-between the tanks and make One super tank per wing? Any thoughts?
> >>
> >>Mark Townsend
> >>601XL EA-82 MPFI Turbo
> >>
> >>
> >Mark,
> >
> >I also am going to run a MPFI Turbo EA-82 in my XL, and currently am at the
> point of building the fuel tanks. As you mentioned the MPFI system returns
> the excess fuel back to the tank, this is a major consideration with the
> long range tanks. I looked at several different methods to acomplish this,
> but in the end couldn't simplify the process without adding undue weight and
> cost. The Andair fuel selector valves are $419.00 each, very nice piece but
> ouch!
> >
> >Several builders have tried to just "T" the by-passed fuel back into the
> main feedline in front of the fuel filter. They will discover that the
> high-pressure pumps used by the MPFI will impart an excessive amount of heat
> into the fuel. And by returning this heated fuel to the main feedline they
> in turn are compounding the problem. This will lead to a vapor-lock. IMHO
> a turbocharged engine requires both the fuel and air charges to be as cold
> as possible in order to minimize the detenation potential.
> >
> >Finally I think I've came across a way to reduce and maybe solve this
> problem. I'm going to try routing the return fuel through a modified
> automatic transmisson cooler (AN fittings heli-arc welded onto the tubes) to
> shed this excess heat. The cooler would be mounted in front of the radiator
> in order to receive the maximum cooling potential. I plan on running
> several tests using water to determine the best heat transfer rate, balanced
> between overall size of the cooler and flow rate.
> >
> >Although as a backup, I plan on including the provisions in the tanks for
> the fuel return.
> >
> >I wouldn't consider the one large super tank, as the leading edge requires
> some support to maintain its shape in flight. You could instead add a
> transfer passage between the two tanks. Something in the 2 inch diameter
> range, this would allow for reasonable refueling. However, you would need
> to add several baffles inside the tanks. In order to control the fuel
> during a side slip or other uncoordinated flight.
> >Sorry for such a long answer.
> >
> >Bill Cribb
> >601XL Scratch building
> >Empenage completed and Both Wing Boxes 80% complete.
> >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Steven Kay <skay(at)optonline.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Plumbing |
Don't know about the strut thing, but the left tank on a Cessna will empty faster
than the right.
-Steve
Rich wrote:
>
> I was going to hook up my 4 tank CH801 the same way per ZAC's recommendation.
I have a Subaru
> fuel injection. The return line was going to be 'T'd & returned to the same 2
tanks from which it
> came for both the inboard & outboard.
> But then talking to Nick at Sun n Fun, there seems to be a similar situation
with all the 801's
> flying, and that is that the left fuel tank always empties faster than the right
by about a half a
> tank difference. That's a lot. This is for a gravity setup but it might do the
same to a F/I system
> as well. I believe this would be a problem with return lines.
>
> I was told they are working on a solution to this. They are experimenting with
adding fuel tank
> vents to different areas of the wing. Possibly the propwash is creating pressure
differences.
> Maybe this is why Cessna keeps theirs behind the strut. Can anyone confirm this?
>
> Until I hear from ZAC on a solution, I will be going with a left/right inboard
setup with a pump on
> each outboard tank to transfer fuel to the inboard tanks.
>
> Rich
>
> Michael R Fortunato wrote:
> >
> >
> > I installed all four leading edge tanks, but admittely have not decided
> > how the lines should be run (there's a schematic in the XL plans I
> > think). But I do know that the outboard tank fuel lines do not connect to
> > the inboard tanks....rather, the lines are designed to run to the cockpit
> > THROUGH a sleeve welded into the bottom of the inboard tanks. This would
> > seem to mean that ZAC intends that they be kept separate...and that the
> > fuel selector be between the inboard and outboard tanks....not
> > necessarily right and left. This make any sense? Any other XL builder
> > feel free to chime in. :)
> >
> > Mike Fortunato
> >
> > writes:
> > > <601xl(at)sympatico.ca>
> > >
> > > Dear Listers
> > > I'm trying to decide as to how I am going to proceed. I would like
> > > to
> > > install all 4 leading edge tanks in my 601XL and I'm going to run a
> > > Subaru
> > > Multi Port Fuel injection engine with Turbo. I have found a switch
> > > unit for
> > > the cabin which switches from left to right tanks and switches the
> > > return
> > > line as well, but How would I plumb the other two tanks? Should I
> > > have them
> > > gravity feed into the inboard tanks with a check valve? or install
> > > fuel
> > > pumps to pump the fuel into the inboard tanks? Or remove the two
> > > ribs
> > > in-between the tanks and make One super tank per wing? Any thoughts?
> > >
> > > Mark Townsend
> > > 601XL EA-82 MPFI Turbo
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Sandidge" <MSandidge(at)peabodyenergy.com> |
05/22/2002 07:55:40 AM
I could use some advise on which type fuel cap to buy. I am making my own
leading edge fuel tanks for 601hds and would like to buy the flush type
Usher caps listed in Aircraft Spruce. They sell one with a flat adaptor or
a contoured adaptor. Could anyone using this type tell me which adaptor I
should order?
Thanks
Mark Sandidge
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Schemmel, Grant" <Grant.Schemmel(at)utmc.aeroflex.com> |
| Subject: | Here we go again |
Haven't made up my mind yet wether to build a HD or HDS, here in Australia
we have a 45 knot limit for Ultralight stall speed, and I might have to
limit the MTOW to 490 kg.
And the HD wing is easier to build.
Much to ponder, guess I'll start with centre section and tail first, and
keep my options open.
Thought I'd let you guys know, as all my friends here think I am short a
shilling.
Cheers,
Chris Weber
Hi Chris
You're not the only one short a shilling or two. I'm just about ready for my first
flight, and already have some money down on my next project. I decided I
liked the building process enough (tho the wife thinks I'm nuts) that I would
like to at least have something ready to work on once I can get to that point.
I'm supposed to go up to Minnesota sometime in the next couple of weeks and pick
up a partially completed BD-4 project (mostly for 4-place & x-country capability).
I don't see partial completion as being an issue, since I had zero problems
with getting the inspection done on my zodie, even though it too was partially
completed when I bought it.
Grant Schemmel
N602GS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "zodiacjeff" <zodiacjeff(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Plumbing |
Please, please, please have the courtesy of following list guidelines and
NOT attaching multiply original posts to messages.
Thank you.
- When responding, NEVER quote the *entire* original post in your
response. DO use lines from the original post to help "tune in" the
reader to the topic at hand, but be selective. The impact that
quoting entire original posts has the size of the archive can not be
overstated! DO NOT DO THIS!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pinneo, George" <George.Pinneo(at)trw.com> |
I used the flat Usher on my header tank; after A-4 riveting through the upper noseskin
into the Usher flange, it works quite well. It can't have much drag.
My canopy rain-cover, covers it to prevent rain from running in through the .040"
vent-hole I drilled in it, when I'm not in a hangar, as at OSH last year.
GGP
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Phil Raker <phadr1(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: FS2002 Simulations and a question about folding bikes |
Yes, Paul!
I am also building an HDS/Stratus and have plans to cary two folding bikes
as part of the plane's "required equipment"; required for weight and balance.
The bikes I'm using are the Brompton L5 models; they're made in England and are
only available here through a distributor (www.bromptonbike.com). The Brompton
has a more rigid frame than most of the Dahons seem to be, yet folds just as
small. The folding and locking mechanism is very strong and secure. No signs
of wear or loosening yet in a year and a couple hundred miles of use. We
refold them for storage after each ride. The bike rides almost as nicely as a
non-folding bike. It also folds/unfolds in less than 15 seconds! (Even my
non-technical wife can figure it out & unfold it in less than 30 sec.)
I've measured several times and also trial fit them into the aft baggage
compartment. They will fit, but with no extra room. It's not an easy fit, so
I'm adding an extra baggage door in the side of the fuselage top skin to ease
the loading task.
I hope this answers some of your questions.
Regards,
Phil Raker - N556P: HDS/Stratus (w/folding bikes); hooking up controls &
plumbing
--- Paul Hartl wrote:
> ....I have a question about folding bikes I hope
> someone might be able to answer. The Dahon "Piccolo" is
> proported to fold up to a size of 11"x20"x30" at 26 lbs weight
> (check out www.dahon.com for their full line of folding bikes). Is it
> possible to get two of these things in a Zodiac (and not use the
> passenger seat)? The baggage compartment looks a little too tight
> for two, so I was wondering if there's any space in the rear fuselage
> that might lend itself to a "bike hatch" of these dimensions. Of
> course, weight and balance would need to be adjusted, probably by
> forward placement of the battery, but I understand the Stratus EA-
> 81 makes it a bit nose-heavy anyway, so maybe this would work. I
> see the "hatch bike" as always being onboard and being part of the
> aircraft's permanent weight distribution, and the second bike only
> coming along in the baggage compartment when my wife travels
> with me. (I also have the wing lockers available for other baggage).
> Ideas??
>
> Thanks!
>
> Paul Hartl, 601HDS Stratus Subaru EA-81
>
http://launch.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry C. McFarland" <larrymc(at)qconline.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Flush Fuel Caps |
Mark,
I used flat adaptors for the leading edge tanks and will use a contour
adapter
on the header tank. If you want to see them before and as installed, there
are images on my
web site, macsmachine.com.
Larry C. McFarland - 601hds
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Sandidge" <MSandidge(at)peabodyenergy.com>
Subject: Zenith-List: Flush Fuel Caps
>
> I could use some advise on which type fuel cap to buy. I am making my own
> leading edge fuel tanks for 601hds and would like to buy the flush type
> Usher caps listed in Aircraft Spruce. They sell one with a flat adaptor or
> a contoured adaptor. Could anyone using this type tell me which adaptor I
> should order?
> Thanks
> Mark Sandidge
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry C. McFarland" <larrymc(at)qconline.com> |
| Subject: | Curved joint angles |
Builders,
I'm having a really great time stretching angles that
join the sides to the center-wing skins. The rear angles
were really easy to do, but the front angles are another
matter. The bottom flange has a slight tentancy to acquire
a bend toward the fuselage and not lay straight with the path.
Would like to be able to shrink the bottom flange a little, or just
keep the thing reasonably straight to maintain a good line
for the fuselage. Does anyone have this hat-trick down yet?
I've used 6061-T6 and 5052-H32 with much the same result.
Would appreciate any comments.
Larry C. McFarland - 601hds
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michel Therrien <mtherr(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Curved joint angles |
I thought that thin 1100 aluminum was recommended for
that (assuming that this is the fillet joining the
side skin with the top nose skin). I bought a small
roll of aluminum at Canadian Tire for this.
I'm not there yet, but I would also appreciate any
tips.
--- "Larry C. McFarland" wrote:
> McFarland"
>
> Builders,
> I'm having a really great time stretching angles
> that
> join the sides to the center-wing skins. The rear
> angles
> were really easy to do, but the front angles are
> another
> matter. The bottom flange has a slight tentancy to
> acquire
> a bend toward the fuselage and not lay straight with
> the path.
> Would like to be able to shrink the bottom flange a
> little, or just
> keep the thing reasonably straight to maintain a
> good line
> for the fuselage. Does anyone have this hat-trick
> down yet?
> I've used 6061-T6 and 5052-H32 with much the same
> result.
> Would appreciate any comments.
> Larry C. McFarland - 601hds
>
>
>
> Contributions of
> any other form
>
> latest messages.
> other List members.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/search
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
=====
----------------------------
Michel Therrien CH601-HD
http://pages.infinit.net/mthobby
http://mthobby.pcperfect.com/ch601
http://www.zenithair.com/bldrlist/profiles/mthobby
http://launch.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Curved joint angles |
Borrow the EAA Chapter's stretcher-shrinker...
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
Always looking for articles for the Experimenter
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry C. McFarland" <larrymc(at)qconline.com>
Subject: Zenith-List: Curved joint angles
Builders,
I'm having a really great time stretching angles that
join the sides to the center-wing skins. The rear angles
were really easy to do, but the front angles are another
matter. The bottom flange has a slight tentancy to acquire
a bend toward the fuselage and not lay straight with the path.
Would like to be able to shrink the bottom flange a little, or just
keep the thing reasonably straight to maintain a good line
for the fuselage. Does anyone have this hat-trick down yet?
I've used 6061-T6 and 5052-H32 with much the same result.
Would appreciate any comments.
Larry C. McFarland - 601hds
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pinneo, George" <George.Pinneo(at)trw.com> |
| Subject: | Curved upper wingskin to fuselage fairing strip |
Do what Zenith tells you to do: a hammer and a vise worked well for me. Mine took
about 30 minutes for the first one and 20 minutes for the second. You'll
have to sand/file the hammer marks out, of course. Maybe you're more into aesthetics
of unblemished Alum? Then you'll want to do a lot of polishing to get
them smoother. I added more angle to fair in the whole top of the wing to the
step: it looks more finished.
GGP
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Liming <gary(at)liming.org> |
I am installing the 801 flap actuator, which rests on a steel bushing that
the actuator is expected to pivot around.
Could somebody make an appropriate recommendation of how to lube it. Light
oil? Moly grease? Motor oil? It is one of the places where the actuator
(aluminum housing) turns against a steel cylinder.
Thanks,
Gary Liming
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joa and Kristie" <joa(at)deschutes.net> |
| Subject: | f/s: complete 601 drawings & manual and tail "kit" |
I have the original, complete 601HD drawings and manual (in almost perfect
condition) along with the components for making the tail for sale. I have
formed all the ribs and the rudder skeleton is riveted together per the
plans. The ribs are formed very well from CAD generated drawings used to
make the dies. All the work is very good.
I also have all the long "L" pieces you'll need (for the whole plane- saves
you having to bend them on a long brake) plus all the skins and rivets.
Basically everything you need to get the tail finished. I'll let it all go
for $750. This is less than 40% of the cost of the plans and tail kit from
Zenith. Another way to look at it is you get the whole tail kit for only
$355 more than the plans! All of this is located in Prineville (by Bend in
Central Oregon) and I really don't want to ship but would in a pinch. Call
me at 541-420-0105 or 541-416-9322. You can also email me with any
questions. Thanks!
Joa
Prineville OR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Garrou, Douglas" <dgarrou(at)hunton.com> |
Many thanks to the Zenith listers who pledged to charity in support of my
virtual Lindbergh re-enactment. I made it - though it was a slog!
As luck would have it, my next door neighbor in the simulators was 601XL
builder Warren Ward! Truly a small world.
massive local media coverage at:
http://www.timesdispatch.com/news/vametro/MGB00Y8XJ1D.html
Blue skies,
Doug Garrou
Project 801
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Peter Chapman <pchapman(at)ionsys.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Record Flight Hours? |
At 10:44 22-05-02 , you wrote:
>
>Does anyone know the current record for hours flown for a Zodiac (any
>model)? Just curious.
In the spring of 1999 I heard that C-FSDN, a 601 HD at that time operated
by Flypass for instruction, had 1700 hours, without overhaul on its 912.
What would be really interesting for a high time aircraft is its
maintenance history, and that I don't know.
Peter Chapman
Toronto, ON
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wayne McMullen" <cmcmullen(at)attbi.com> |
Does you one have any information on keeping the Subaru engine system
waterproof?
Wayne
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joe Wooten" <wooten(at)nelsondesigngroup.com> |
Has anybody in the group building or know of a web site to ck the
building of a 640 out. Thanks do
not archive
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joa and Kristie" <joa(at)deschutes.net> |
| Subject: | Zenith Builders Resources area |
I forgot my user name and password to get into the resources area. I'm a
legit plans holder (6-3958). Could someone email me privately and help me
out here. Hopefully pretty soon as I'm trying to look up some stuff tonight
:) Thanks folks!
Joa
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "michael brook" <walruss(at)optushome.com.au> |
The Provisional Airworthiness Certificate for my STOL AUF No 193623 also
named Liebes Engel, or loves angel, was issued this afternoon. TEst flight
will be happening tomorrow morning.
mike2planes
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Alberti" <daberti(at)execpc.com> |
The topic of rotary engines has come up from time to time on the list,
as a heads up for what not to do examine the following NTSB link.
http://www.ntsb.gov/ntsb/brief.asp?ev_id20020504X00620&key1
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Alberti" <daberti(at)execpc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rotary Power |
Of course, the link won't work now! The date is April 21, 2002 "Creswell,
OR Gallagher Taylor "Coot" N41RG Fatal(1)"
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave Alberti" <daberti(at)execpc.com>
Subject: Zenith-List: Rotary Power
>
> The topic of rotary engines has come up from time to time on the list,
> as a heads up for what not to do examine the following NTSB link.
> http://www.ntsb.gov/ntsb/brief.asp?ev_id20020504X00620&key1
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Tanner" <vk3auu(at)vic.australis.com.au> |
Listers with interests in VW engines may be interested in the following.
Ron Slender of VW Engine Centre
in S.E. Qld makes the RG2000 100hp engine with a helical gear drive
rslender(at)smartchat.net.au
or view http://www.vw-engines.com
David Tanner
CH701 912UL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Im7shannon(at)aol.com |
Would anyone be interested in sending me copies of the wing / center section
/landing gear part of the plans for a 601UL and /or 601 XL, I would pay for
shipping (or other) expenses etc. This is for my own reference only, I am not
building a Zenith. Please contact me off list
Thanks, Kevin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Morelli <billvt(at)together.net> |
| Subject: | Stratus Alternator Bracket Failure |
Today I found the bracket that holds the alternator to my Stratus EA-81 had
failed.
For the complete details and photos, go to my web site (see below) and
click on Construction and then on Alternator Bracket Fail.
This could have been ugly had I not caught it on my preflight!!!
Regards,
Bill (N812BM - HDS - Tri - Stratus - Vermont - 138.0 flight hrs. - 212
landings)
web site -> http://homepages.together.net/~billvt/
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Stratus Alternator Bracket Failure |
In a message dated 5/27/02 8:11:08 PM US Mountain Standard Time,
billvt(at)together.net writes:
> This could have been ugly had I not caught it on my preflight!!!
Good Catch Bill. I am glad you do such a thorough preflight. Any ideas as
to why this happened? Do you think it is a problem unique to your airframe?
Steve (Turned over my engine {finally} for the first time) Freeman
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "michael brook" <walruss(at)optushome.com.au> |
The first of my STOL's flew for the first time this morning. The test flight
was uneventful and she performed brilliantly. Stall's at 23kts clean and
21kts with 1/2 flap.
Afterwards I christened her Love's Angel.
It took about 21months and about 650hours to do. Stol #2 will be in the air
within 2 months. BOth machines will be flying by 2 years after getting the
kits in a box.
If only I hadn't had so much time off I might have had it done 8 months ago.
mike2planes
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kilby, Roger" <Roger.Kilby(at)DynCorp.com> |
| Subject: | Arplast prop....HELP.... |
I am installing an Arplast PV50 in-flight adjustable prop on my 601 and have
a question.
How does one get the alignment bush into the swashplate in order to install
a blade?
Any other hints/tricks are greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Roger Kilby
N98RK 601HDS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Steven Kay <skay(at)optonline.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Stratus Alternator Bracket Failure |
Bill, that is some Ugly welding. The material failing adjacent to the weld is
typical of a fatigue failure in a weldment that has not been normalized. -Steve
Bill Morelli wrote:
>
> Today I found the bracket that holds the alternator to my Stratus EA-81 had
> failed.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RoyN9869L(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: First Flight |
Mike,
Just a little nosey but why are you building two CH-701's Are you thinking
of selling one? I'd be interested
Roger Roy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RoyN9869L(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: First Flight |
Geez I forgot to congrat you on you first flight, Outstanding, Cheers
Roger Roy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve M" <ondeck355(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Southern Cal Newcomer |
Hello all,
I'm a newcomer to the Zenith list, and am very interested in the Zenair
planes. I have a Minimax ultralight now, and had about 30 hours in a
Taylorcraft L2 'way back when.
Particularly interested in the Zenith CH-701, for its short-field capability
and the possibility that it may be Light Sport qualified (depending on what
the final version of Light Sport regs look like, of course).
Does anyone have one of these in southern California? If so, I'd love to get
a look at one sometime. Can I beg your indulgence for a few minutes, next
time you plan to be out at your airport? Anyone within like 70-80 miles of
San Diego would be great - it's be worth a six-pack to me to get a chance to
see one up close. I've seen the pictures and the stats, but never the real
thing!
Thanks all, I hope to talk to you soon, and maybe see a few at air shows
this summer!
Steve Maher
ondeck355(at)hotmail.com
San Diego, CA
Ison Minimax 1100R, Rotax 377
http://www.Little-Acorn.com/planes00.htm <---- (my flying website)
Join the worlds largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail.
http://www.hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "michael brook" <walruss(at)optushome.com.au> |
| Subject: | Re: First Flight |
I'm not interested in selling one. One is for me and the other one is for my
twin brother.
mike
----- Original Message -----
From: <RoyN9869L(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: First Flight
>
> Mike,
> Just a little nosey but why are you building two CH-701's Are you
thinking
> of selling one? I'd be interested
>
> Roger Roy
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Morelli <billvt(at)together.net> |
| Subject: | Stratus Alternator Bracket Failure |
First let me say that I sent an e-mal late last night to Mykal at Stratus
along with some pictures of the failed bracket. I was pleased that Mykal
got back to me very quickly (less than 124 hourd).
Below is my e-mail to him followed by his reply:
*************************************************
MY NOTE:
Mykal,
My Stratus EA-81 now has 130 hours on it and today during my preflight I
found the Alternator Mounting Bracket had failed. Two of the tabs had
broken off just past the welds. There was no lose hardware so it should not
have been caused by vibration.
I have attached some photos of the bracket.
Do you think it is repairable?
Do you have a new bracket in stock?
How much would it cost for the new bracket?
How fast could I get a new one?
Thanks,
Bill Morelli
*****************************************
MYKALS RESPONSE:
Bill i will send one today priority mail, have had very little problems with
the brackets. there are some harmonics from the belt tention that may be the
culpret. the bracket is on the way. mykal,stratus.
****************************************
Another builder, Gary K sent me a note saying that he had heard of other
failures and thought that the newer brackets may have been beefed up. My
engine was built back when Reiner was the owner so there may well be a
newer bracket. I was pleased that he shipped me one priority mail. He also
did not mention cost but I would certainly not mind paying for it being way
past warranty.
I will measure the new bracket compared to the old and see if there is a
difference. I took the broken bracket today to my welder who I trust with
my life (literally). He said it acts as though the welds were not
normalized (whatever that means) after welding causing the metal to get
brittle. He said he can fix it and so I will have it back tomorrow and see
how it comes out. If the new one that arrives from Mykal is beefier, I will
use that one instead. I will also try and determine if there is any tension
placed on the mounting tabs caused by misalignment when mounting it to the
engine and mounting the alternator to the bracket.
That's my story.
Regards,
Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Cleone Markwell ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Cleone Markwell
Subject: CH601 modifications
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/cleone@rr1.net.05.26.2002/index.html
--------------------------------------------
o EMAIL LIST PHOTO SHARE
Share your files and photos with other List members simply by
emailing the files to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
Please view the typical Share above and include the Description Text
Fields as shown along with your submission of files and photos.
o Main Photo Share Index:
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
--------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Rogers" <terryr(at)xtra.co.nz> |
Hi everyone, I am looking for a warp drive 3 blade hub (SAE 1 pattern). I
will buy the hub or complete with blades if anyone can help.
Thanks, TerryR
Reply to : terryr(at)xtra.co.nz
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kilby, Roger" <Roger.Kilby(at)DynCorp.com> |
| Subject: | First Flight.... |
Mike,
Congratulations!!!
Please keep us posted on the specs as you complete more flights.
Roger Kilby
N98RK 601HDS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "George Bell" <leeboggler(at)hotmail.com> |
I am building a CH701 from a rev.2 kit (approx 1994 vintage) and
recently bought the rev.4 CAD plans. I'd like to avoid using the header
tank, and instead add 2 more of the small wing tanks to increase the
range.
Would it be feasible to connect both small tanks together on each wing
so that there is only one filler cap per side (and then maybe the
other tank filler opening could be used for the fuel gauge
sender)? Any obvious problems with the plumbing?.
regards from Bonny Scotland,
George Bell
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Magnetic magnetic compass? |
| From: | Grant Corriveau <grantC(at)total.net> |
Hi all,
My compass was working fine for the first couple of hours, then it became
very 'wonky'... I removed it the other day wondering if there was a
mechanical linkage problem (the vertical card style - from ACS - made in
China)... But it seems that the case of the compass itself has become
magnetized. At least this is the impression I get when I place a small
hiking compass nearby. Is this possible?
I've scanned the archives regarding de-gaussing airframe components that are
affecting the compass, but I think I have a different situation. Does anyone
know if it is possible for the compass casing to get magatized (from
vibrations?), and how to de-magnetize it?
Thanks in advance
Gotta get the wings back on cause summer's finally here!
--
Grant Corriveau
Montreal
Zodiac 601hds/CAM100
C-GHTF
www.theWingStayedON.ca
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RoyN9869L(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: First Flight |
Mike,
I hope you didn't take offense but it never hurts to ask. Again I offer my
congratulations on your first flight
R. Roy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chuck Deiterich" <cfd(at)thegateway.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Magnetic magnetic compass? |
Grant,
I would guess that the hiking compass is reacting to the magnetic
compensators or the main magnet inside the aircraft compass. (The case
should not be made of magnetic material, but this is an assumption.) Does
wonky mean sticky or does it point to the wrong direction.
Chuck D.
----- Original Message -----
From: Grant Corriveau <grantC(at)total.net>
Subject: Zenith-List: Magnetic magnetic compass?
>
> Hi all,
>
> My compass was working fine for the first couple of hours, then it became
> very 'wonky'... I removed it the other day wondering if there was a
> mechanical linkage problem (the vertical card style - from ACS - made in
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rudolf leppe <recumbent10(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Anyone flying / building a Zenith CH-XXX in northern California |
/ SFO Bay ?
http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Magnetic magnetic compass? |
| From: | Grant Corriveau <grantC(at)total.net> |
on 29/05/02 10:46, Chuck Deiterich at cfd(at)thegateway.net wrote:
>
> Grant,
> I would guess that the hiking compass is reacting to the magnetic
> compensators or the main magnet inside the aircraft compass. (The case
> should not be made of magnetic material, but this is an assumption.) Does
> wonky mean sticky or does it point to the wrong direction.
> Chuck D.
By 'wonky' I meant totally unreliable directionally. I'd expected a
mechanical problem, but once removed from the aircraft, I can turn in all
directions without any signs of mechanical 'hangup'... just that the
directional indications are very strange.
??
Grant
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Grant Corriveau <grantC(at)total.net> |
on 29/05/02 11:45, zodiacjeff at zodiacjeff(at)email.msn.com wrote:
> Hi Grant,
>
> When Bill M. and I were looking for compasses he came upon this article
>
> http://www.avionicswest.com/index.html
>
> look under Avionics Articles and you'll find one on magnetic compass. If I
> remember there's something there about how a vertical card compass can
> "jump" the tracks if something ferrous or magnetic came near.
>
> Might be worth looking at...good luck.
>
> Regards Jeff
Jeff,
That's could be the problem. I noted that in the article, the writer did
ask himself if his compass had 'become magnetized', so that's still got me
considering this possiblity...
My compass worked fine until the first few hours, and it was exposed to some
'buzzing' vibes due to the mounting frame vibrating in sympathy with the
airframe vibes. So:
1/ Did the vibes cause/disturb the units magnetism?
2/ Did the vibes mechanically cause the interiour magnet mounts to go 'off'
or
3/ As per the article, did I put something else near the compass, (a
flashlight, or a magnetized screwdriver) and that caused the interiour
magnet to become disloceted from it's gimbal....
That article was very helpful in tracking this down. Thanks.
Grant
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Morelli <billvt(at)together.net> |
| Subject: | Stratus Alternator Bracket Failure - Update |
Hey Stratus Guys,
Gary K. was kind enough to measure the material thickness of the alternator
bracket on his Stratus. It measured at .185"
Measuring my broken bracket revealed that the thickness of the material is
only .120"
So it seems at some point in time, the bracket was upgraded (probably due
to cracking)!! This is supposition on my part and not based on any facts.
My engine was purchased in 1998 when Reiner Hoffman owned the company.
There is no way to tell when the new brackets were introduced. Mykal did
not mention this in his note to me so maybe it happened when Reiner still
owned the company. I also don't know when Gary K. purchased his engine and
if it was Reiner's or Mykal's compny when he did.
There is a new bracket on the way to me from Stratus and when I get it I
will measure the thickness and keep you posted.
You guys might want to measure your brackets as a preventive measure.
Regards,
Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ivan Rosales <ivanrosalest(at)prodigy.net.mx> |
| Subject: | What went wrong?! |
Hi guys:
Another frustrating moment for me, hope someone could help me:
I'm attempting to install the channel 6V13-4 that goes from the seat
back to the rear zee crossing the center just above the torque tube but
there is just not enough clearence because the torque tube gets on it's
way. I installed the rear bearing 6v12-2 at the height described in the
plans but seems that something went wrong and the torque tube is too
high. Also, the channel seems too short to cross in a diagonal as the
plans describe. The best I can do is to install it from just the back of
the armrest side (as in the plans) to the center of the rear zee but I'm
not sure if the rudder cables will clear. Any one has some advice?
On another note: is it OK to install the control column and the torque
tube without the cables at this moment? Is there enough space to make
the nicropress swagging later?
Thanks everyone for your help.
Ivan Rosales
601 HD From Kit
Mexico City.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Graham Byass" <gbyass(at)cygnus.uwa.edu.au> |
| Subject: | Magnetic magnetic compass? |
Grant
For what it is worth there is a very interesting article on vertical card
compasses in the Avionics West web page (www.avionicswest.com) that may
assist anyone having problems with this sort of compass.
As far as demagnetising is concerned you could try a 'degaussing' wand as
used in colout TV's - I have found this useful for car dashboards that
affested magnetic compasses in a car.
Graham Byass
Perth
Western Australia
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Grant
Corriveau
Subject: Zenith-List: Magnetic magnetic compass?
Hi all,
My compass was working fine for the first couple of hours, then it became
very 'wonky'... I removed it the other day wondering if there was a
mechanical linkage problem (the vertical card style - from ACS - made in
China)... But it seems that the case of the compass itself has become
magnetized. At least this is the impression I get when I place a small
hiking compass nearby. Is this possible?
I've scanned the archives regarding de-gaussing airframe components that are
affecting the compass, but I think I have a different situation. Does anyone
know if it is possible for the compass casing to get magatized (from
vibrations?), and how to de-magnetize it?
Thanks in advance
Gotta get the wings back on cause summer's finally here!
--
Grant Corriveau
Montreal
Zodiac 601hds/CAM100
C-GHTF
www.theWingStayedON.ca
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Phil Raker <phadr1(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: What went wrong?! |
Hello, Ivan:
You are correct in suggesting that the channel 6v13-4 should be only a
semi-diagonal. It goes from the left side of the armrest to just barely to the
right of center of the rear Z, with the suport for the rear bearing attached
along the way. The cables (rudder and elevator) will miss it if you've put the
holes in the rear bearing (or fairleads) in the correct locations.
Yes, it's OK to mount the torque tube now. Mine was in place for over 6
months before I got the cables connected. You'll probably want to leave the
nut loose on the bolt which attaches the control stick (column) to the torque
tube until you get the bottom cable (up elevator) connected. It's a bit close
on the bottom. You might also want to make your turnbuckles a bit smaller than
what's in the plans; especially the one at the bottom of the stick. The
extruded angles are just too wide & tall. Mine scraped the floor and had to be
modified. Just don't rivet the sides on your center console until you're
certain that everything in that area is completed.
Regards,
Phil Raker N556P: HDS/Stratus; building flaperon controls/pushrods (own design)
--- Ivan Rosales wrote:
> The best I can do is to install it from just the back of
> the armrest side (as in the plans) to the center of the rear zee but I'm
> not sure if the rudder cables will clear. Any one has some advice?
>
> On another note: is it OK to install the control column and the torque
> tube without the cables at this moment? Is there enough space to make
> the nicropress swagging later?
> Thanks everyone for your help.
> Ivan Rosales
> 601 HD From Kit
> Mexico City.
http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fred or Sandy Hulen" <hulens61(at)birch.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Magnetic magnetic compass? |
> assist anyone having problems with this sort of compass.
> As far as demagnetising is concerned you could try a 'degaussing' wand as
> used in colout TV's -
++ Compasses function because they have tiny magnets inside. If you
de-gauss it, you will remove the magnetism and the compass will be
useless........... Well, you could use it as a conversation piece on your
desk!
Fred
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "The Meiste's" <meiste(at)essex1.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Stratus Alternator Bracket Failure - Update |
> You guys might want to measure your brackets as a preventive measure.
>
> Regards,
> Bill
FWIW my Stratus was delivered Jan 01, my alt brkts are gold in color, not
blue, and measure .187 thick. My slotted adjustable alt brkt is make from
.187 also.
Thanks for keeping us Stratus guys posted on this Bill!
Kelly
601 HD (95 %)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michel Therrien <mtherr(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: What went wrong?! |
I was also concerned about the positioning of the part
6V13-4. And mine was too short to correctly position
in a diagonal.
I created an opening inside the channel and positioned
it straight. See:
http://mthobby.pcperfect.com/ch601/images/Dcp01147.jpg
I would like to claim credit for that idea, but
actually, I copied on the work of another builder.
If I remember, you have to install the torque tube
before you join the fuselage. Anyway, that's what I
did. And for the swaging, you don't need to swage the
cable at the console. I pulled mine out and then
attached them to the control stick. (pictures not yet
available).
Michel
>
> --- Ivan Rosales
> wrote:
>
> > The best I can do is to install it from just the
> back of
> > the armrest side (as in the plans) to the center
> of the rear zee but I'm
> > not sure if the rudder cables will clear. Any one
> has some advice?
> >
> > On another note: is it OK to install the control
> column and the torque
> > tube without the cables at this moment? Is there
> enough space to make
> > the nicropress swagging later?
> > Thanks everyone for your help.
> > Ivan Rosales
> > 601 HD From Kit
> > Mexico City.
>
>
=====
----------------------------
Michel Therrien CH601-HD
http://pages.infinit.net/mthobby
http://mthobby.pcperfect.com/ch601
http://www.zenithair.com/bldrlist/profiles/mthobby
http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rich <rich(at)carol.net> |
| Subject: | Edo-Aire attitude gyro |
Does anyone have any specs or pinout info on the Edo-Aire 5000L-8 attitude gyro?
I can see on the back it has an air inlet port, vacuum port, gage port & an electrical
plug. What is the air inlet & electrical plug for?
Thanks
Rich
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Phil Raker <phadr1(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: What went wrong?! |
It might be easier that way, Michel, but it's not necessary. The torque tube
can be easily installed (or removed) after the fuselage is joined. That's what
I did ... several times.
Regards,
Phil Raker N556P: HDS/Stratus; building flaperon mechanism (my own design) on
back of torque tube
--- Michel Therrien wrote:
> If I remember, you have to install the torque tube
> before you join the fuselage. Anyway, that's what I
> did.
> Michel
>
http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve M" <ondeck355(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Any CH-701's in SOUTHERN California? |
(with apologies to the fellow who posted asking about Zeniths in northern
Cal)
I'm here in San Diego, and would appreciate a chance to look at a CH-701 in
any stage of completion. No flying necessary (unless of course you insist :)
but I've never seen one "in the flesh", only pictures and statistics.
Anyone in the Los Angeles - Orange County - Riverside - San Bernardino - San
Diego areas with a CH-701? Would you mind my dropping by for a few minutes
next time you go to the shop or airport?
Thanks all!
Steve Maher
Current ride: Ison Minimax 1100R
ondeck355(at)hotmail.com
San Diego, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Schemmel, Grant" <Grant.Schemmel(at)utmc.aeroflex.com> |
| Subject: | N602GS First Flight |
My o-200 powered 601HDS took to the air for the first time this morning from 1V6,
by Florence Colorado.
My former flight instructor volunteered to do the first flight for me, since I
only have about 150 hrs total time. This seemed like an intelligent idea, so
I took him up on it, and did ground crew duties.
He did some taxi testing around the airport for awhile, followed by a couple of
high speed taxi runs down the runway, the last of which he brought it off the
ground and into ground effect for a short time.
The actual flight itself only lasted for about 15 minutes, as the oil temperatures
were getting too high. Will have to route some cooling air towards the oil
sump and maybe the filter, then see if that takes care of the problem. Otherwise,
all other temperatures and pressures were great.
He reported that the plane had no bad tendencies to it, the ailerons and elevator
were very sensitive, and that it did not take much rudder to control.
In spite of the cooling problem he was very complimentary about the plane. So,
5 years and 1100 hrs of construction time later, I finally have a flying aircraft.
It's been a trip well worth taking.
Grant Schemmel
Penrose, CO.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "michael brook" <walruss(at)optushome.com.au> |
| Subject: | Re: N602GS First Flight |
ONya. I at the same place at the moment. I'll be flying my bird for the
first time this afternoon.
It's a great feeling isn't it. :-)))))
mike2planes one flies
----- Original Message -----
From: Schemmel, Grant <Grant.Schemmel(at)utmc.aeroflex.com>
Subject: Zenith-List: N602GS First Flight
>
> My o-200 powered 601HDS took to the air for the first time this morning
from 1V6, by Florence Colorado.
>
> My former flight instructor volunteered to do the first flight for me,
since I only have about 150 hrs total time. This seemed like an intelligent
idea, so I took him up on it, and did ground crew duties.
>
> He did some taxi testing around the airport for awhile, followed by a
couple of high speed taxi runs down the runway, the last of which he brought
it off the ground and into ground effect for a short time.
>
> The actual flight itself only lasted for about 15 minutes, as the oil
temperatures were getting too high. Will have to route some cooling air
towards the oil sump and maybe the filter, then see if that takes care of
the problem. Otherwise, all other temperatures and pressures were great.
>
> He reported that the plane had no bad tendencies to it, the ailerons and
elevator were very sensitive, and that it did not take much rudder to
control.
>
> In spite of the cooling problem he was very complimentary about the plane.
So, 5 years and 1100 hrs of construction time later, I finally have a flying
aircraft. It's been a trip well worth taking.
>
> Grant Schemmel
> Penrose, CO.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ZodiacBuilder(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: N602GS First Flight |
In a message dated 5/30/2002 4:35:42 PM Eastern Standard Time,
Grant.Schemmel(at)utmc.aeroflex.com writes:
> In spite of the cooling problem he was very complimentary about the plane.
> So, 5 years and 1100 hrs of construction time later, I finally have a
> flying aircraft. It's been a trip well worth taking.
>
> Grant Schemmel
> Penrose, CO.
>
Congrats Grant,
If you have a chance, e-mail me privately about your oil particulars. I had
and still do have a bit of an oil problem with my 0-200. Perhaps we could
help each other solve the problem.
Do No Archive
John W. Tarabocchia
Web Site: http://hometown.aol.com/zodiacbuilder/Home.html
N6042T 70hrs Flown.....
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: What went wrong?! |
| From: | Grant Corriveau <grantC(at)total.net> |
on 30/05/02 08:57, Phil Raker at phadr1(at)yahoo.com wrote:
> Phil Raker N556P: HDS/Stratus; building flaperon mechanism (my own design) on
> back of torque tube
Hey Phil,
I'd be interested to see your final results. This could provide some
interesting STOL performance!
--
Grant Corriveau
Montreal
Zodiac 601hds/CAM100
C-GHTF
www.theWingStayedON.ca
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Grant Corriveau <grantC(at)total.net> |
----------
From: Grant Corriveau <grantC(at)total.net>
Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 18:47:01 -0400
Subject: Re: Compass
on 29/05/02 11:45, zodiacjeff at zodiacjeff(at)email.msn.com wrote:
> http://www.avionicswest.com/index.html
...
> Might be worth looking at...good luck.
>
> Regards Jeff
After reading this article I dismantled my compass. The bevel gears had
definitely slipped. I realigned the compass face card and it seems to work
okay now.
BTW -- I'd already passed the compass (quickly) through the local T.V. store
degausser. ( I think magnetism was also a problem because the original
readings were not exactly the same error on all headings...)
I was hoping that the degaussing would affect the temporary magnetism in the
casing much more rapidly than it would affect the permanent magnets. It
still works.
Will these bevel gears hold up during reinstallation? TBD! But I'm
thinking about installing it suspended from the canopy this time to shield
it from airframe vibes....
--
Grant Corriveau
Montreal
Zodiac 601hds/CAM100
C-GHTF
www.theWingStayedON.ca
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Careful Walkaround! |
| From: | Grant Corriveau <grantC(at)total.net> |
May 01, 2002 - May 31, 2002
Zenith-Archive.digest.vol-cw