RE: Rudder etc


Subject:    RE: Rudder etc
From:    Les Kearney (kearney@shaw.ca)
Date:    Mon Nov 16 - 7:17 PM
Rick


If you go to this link, on page 5-13 you will get the torque values you
need. Also on the Vans construction FAQS are torque values for fittings (as
opposed to bolts).


http://vansaircraft.com/pdf/Section_5_R10.pdf


Don't feel bad about the "oops" moments. We have all turned nice aluminum
parts into scrap. I suspect that I have done more than my fair share. 


The rivet gauge is used to measure the quality of the rivet AFTER it is set.
The hole in the appropriate gauge measures whether or not the shop head is
large enough. Ideally, the shop head should be just slightly too large to go
into the hole. The notch measures whether or not the shop head is "high"
enough. Ideally, the shop head should be just slightly higher than the
notch. 


You also want your shop ends to be circular, not slumped or malformed. I
suggest you get a couple of pieces of scrap and set a bunch of rivets until
you get the hang of it. After you have done a bunch, drill them out and do
them again. 


Setting rivets with a gun is a skill that takes practise. This is especially
true of the AN470 rivets which can be a bit tricky especially when you
start.


Cheers


Les

#40643  


  _____  

From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick Lark
Sent: November-16-09 7:37 PM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: Re: Rudder etc


Hi Vernon


I have searched through AC43-13 numerous times and can't find any torque
values.  I'll take another look.  The Standard Aircraft Handbook is on my
X-mas list. 


 I have been involved in balancing the rudder on my Cardinal so I will
consult our maintenance guy.


I hate to ask stupid questions, but will anyway.  I have a rivet gauge but
didn't know how to use it.  I get the feeling the little notches are to
gauge the rivet length that sticks out before you form the shop head??


I wish I had asked that question before I riveted the rudder hinges onto the
spar.  


Thx for your advise.


Regards,  Rick

----- Original Message ----- 

From: Vernon <mailto:planesmith@hotmail.com>  Smith 

To: RV 10 <mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>  list 

Sent: Monday, November 16, 2009 11:36 AM

Subject: RE: Rudder etc


Hi Rick,

The torque ranges should be in the Standard Aircraft Handbook and AC43-13
Aircraft Inspection, Repair  and Alteration. If you don't have copies of
these they are very good and useful guides to have on hand.

As for rudder balancing, the plans are a little sparse. There are some
ranges in the finishing kit's instructions. But it only gives ranges. If you
know an A&P with a set of Cessna repair manuals threre is a section in their
manual that outlines how to build a balancing arm and jig. Also discusses
how to use it. Keep in mind that when you paint it will effect the balance
as well.

Through out the project you will find some rivets called out in the plans
are off in length. Just use your rivet gauge before driving if a rivet is in
question. As the project progresses you will find may times by eyeing a
rivet you will know if it is too ling or short. Then just trade it out for
the right length. As for the shop head size the two reference books
mentioned above should take about the min/max range for rivet head size.

Congratulation on your project & enjoy the build,

Vern Smith (#324 Finishing?)       


  _____  


From: jrlark@bmts.com
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: Rudder etc
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 2009 07:17:19 PM PST

Hi all


A couple of questions


1) Where do I find torque values for the #6 structural screws that I have
used to attach the rudder stops to the lower rudder hinge?


2) I have just started the rudder and will be adding electric rudder trim.
Before I make some serious cuts in the rudder skin I want to do some
research into how the rudder is balanced, and thus make a few calculations.
Where are the instructions about how the rudder is balanced?  I only have
the empanage kit home at present and I can't find anything regarding
balancing.


3)  When I rivetted the lower rudder hinge onto the VS rear spar it seems
the rivets called out by Vans are a bit short.  Did anyone else run into
this?  Also it seems some rivets are also too long.  If the shop head is the
proper diameter, does it matter if it's a little bit thicker?


Sorry for the neophyte type questions but I gotta get this right.


Thx, Rick

#40956

Southampton, Ont


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