Mike
How did you use Sikaflex on the front window? Pix would be great. When you
routed the old window out, did that effectively leave a bottom notch for the
window?
Inquiring minds need to know.
Les
#40643
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael Kraus
Sent: November-16-09 8:02 PM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: Re: Tips on removal of front window and lessons learned
I routed one out that was installed with weld on, same issue as you were
explaining. Therefore I am not using weld on on my plane!! I set the depth
to match the window thickness, it made a big mess but left a very nice and
flat surface for the reinstall. BTW, we switched to Sikaflex and have been
very happy with it. YMMV.
-Mike Kraus
Sent from my iPhone
On Nov 16, 2009, at 8:34 PM, Aaron Gleixner <aarongleixner@sbcglobal.net>
wrote:
I just got off the phone with Van's after paying $470 for a new front
window. I had approximately 50 small cracks starting at the glue joint, and
extending about 1/8 inch beyond the glue joint. After reading all the
warnings about not clamping when glueing the windows, I added a clamp in one
location to hold the plexi tight, and all the cracks started under the
clamp. While clamping pressure may not be the only variable for crack
formation, it is definitely a strong contributing factor. So for those
about to complete this step, avoid the clamps, and use plenty of glue to
bridge any small gaps that might result.
Now for the question. Has anyone else had to remove a front window? At
this point, I only need to remove the glue joint. How was it accomplished?
Van's said someone routed out a window, but I was wondering if lots of heat
from a heat gun, and a little prying might separate the glue from the
fiberglass. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Aaron
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