Re: Rudder etc


Subject:    Re: Rudder etc
From:    Rick Lark (jrlark@bmts.com)
Date:    Mon Nov 16 - 8:16 PM
Hi Les

I did see that chart but I'm talking about #6-32 screws.  I do expect 
the value to be close to a AN#3 bolt though.

I haven't had any badly driven rivets yet. I did get a couple of shop 
heads that turned out too thin primarliy because there wasn't enough 
rivet sticking out the back (or shop head side) before I drove them.  
What caught me by surprise was that Vans had a wrong length called out 
in the plans.

The gauge I'm talking about (sorry I wasn't very specific) I bought from 
Aircraft Tool Supply, part # RG032, which is called a "rivet length 
gauge".  I also have the gauge you mention (RG031),  to check the shop 
heads as well.  After Vernons' response I think I figured the gauge out.

Thx for your response

Rick


----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Les Kearney 
  To: rv10-list@matronics.com 
  Sent: Monday, November 16, 2009 10:14 PM
  Subject: RE: Rudder etc


  Rick

   

  If you go to this link, on page 5-13 you will get the torque values 
you need. Also on the Vans construction FAQS are torque values for 
fittings (as opposed to bolts).

   

  http://vansaircraft.com/pdf/Section_5_R10.pdf

   

  Don't feel bad about the "oops" moments. We have all turned nice 
aluminum parts into scrap. I suspect that I have done more than my fair 
share. 

   

  The rivet gauge is used to measure the quality of the rivet AFTER it 
is set. The hole in the appropriate gauge measures whether or not the 
shop head is large enough. Ideally, the shop head should be just 
slightly too large to go into the hole. The notch measures whether or 
not the shop head is "high" enough. Ideally, the shop head should be 
just slightly higher than the notch. 

   

  You also want your shop ends to be circular, not slumped or malformed. 
I suggest you get a couple of pieces of scrap and set a bunch of rivets 
until you get the hang of it. After you have done a bunch, drill them 
out and do them again. 

   

  Setting rivets with a gun is a skill that takes practise. This is 
especially true of the AN470 rivets which can be a bit tricky especially 
when you start.

   

  Cheers

   

  Les

  #40643  

   


-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----

  From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com 
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick Lark
  Sent: November-16-09 7:37 PM
  To: rv10-list@matronics.com
  Subject: Re: Rudder etc

   

  Hi Vernon

   

  I have searched through AC43-13 numerous times and can't find any 
torque values.  I'll take another look.  The Standard Aircraft Handbook 
is on my X-mas list. 

   

   I have been involved in balancing the rudder on my Cardinal so I will 
consult our maintenance guy.

   

  I hate to ask stupid questions, but will anyway.  I have a rivet gauge 
but didn't know how to use it.  I get the feeling the little notches are 
to gauge the rivet length that sticks out before you form the shop 
head??

   

  I wish I had asked that question before I riveted the rudder hinges 
onto the spar.  

   

  Thx for your advise.

   

  Regards,  Rick

    ----- Original Message ----- 

    From: Vernon Smith 

    To: RV 10 list 

    Sent: Monday, November 16, 2009 11:36 AM

    Subject: RE: Rudder etc

     

    Hi Rick,
     
    The torque ranges should be in the Standard Aircraft Handbook and 
AC43-13 Aircraft Inspection, Repair  and Alteration. If you don't have 
copies of these they are very good and useful guides to have on hand.
     
    As for rudder balancing, the plans are a little sparse. There are 
some ranges in the finishing kit's instructions. But it only gives 
ranges. If you know an A&P with a set of Cessna repair manuals threre is 
a section in their manual that outlines how to build a balancing arm and 
jig. Also discusses how to use it. Keep in mind that when you paint it 
will effect the balance as well.
     
    Through out the project you will find some rivets called out in the 
plans are off in length. Just use your rivet gauge before driving if a 
rivet is in question. As the project progresses you will find may times 
by eyeing a rivet you will know if it is too ling or short. Then just 
trade it out for the right length. As for the shop head size the two 
reference books mentioned above should take about the min/max range for 
rivet head size.
     
    Congratulation on your project & enjoy the build,
     
    Vern Smith (#324 Finishing?)       
     


-------------------------------------------------------------------------
---

    From: jrlark@bmts.com
    To: rv10-list@matronics.com
    Subject: Rudder etc
    Date: Sun, 15 Nov 2009 19:06:12 -0500

    Hi all

     

    A couple of questions

     

    1) Where do I find torque values for the #6 structural screws that I 
have used to attach the rudder stops to the lower rudder hinge?

     

    2) I have just started the rudder and will be adding electric rudder 
trim.  Before I make some serious cuts in the rudder skin I want to do 
some research into how the rudder is balanced, and thus make a few 
calculations.  Where are the instructions about how the rudder is 
balanced?  I only have the empanage kit home at present and I can't find 
anything regarding balancing.

     

    3)  When I rivetted the lower rudder hinge onto the VS rear spar it 
seems the rivets called out by Vans are a bit short.  Did anyone else 
run into this?  Also it seems some rivets are also too long.  If the 
shop head is the proper diameter, does it matter if it's a little bit 
thicker?

     

    Sorry for the neophyte type questions but I gotta get this right.

     

    Thx, Rick

    #40956

    Southampton, Ont

     


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