Hi Les
I did see that chart but I'm talking about #6-32 screws. I do expect
the value to be close to a AN#3 bolt though.
I haven't had any badly driven rivets yet. I did get a couple of shop
heads that turned out too thin primarliy because there wasn't enough
rivet sticking out the back (or shop head side) before I drove them.
What caught me by surprise was that Vans had a wrong length called out
in the plans.
The gauge I'm talking about (sorry I wasn't very specific) I bought from
Aircraft Tool Supply, part # RG032, which is called a "rivet length
gauge". I also have the gauge you mention (RG031), to check the shop
heads as well. After Vernons' response I think I figured the gauge out.
Thx for your response
Rick
----- Original Message -----
From: Les Kearney
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, November 16, 2009 10:14 PM
Subject: RE: Rudder etc
Rick
If you go to this link, on page 5-13 you will get the torque values
you need. Also on the Vans construction FAQS are torque values for
fittings (as opposed to bolts).
http://vansaircraft.com/pdf/Section_5_R10.pdf
Don't feel bad about the "oops" moments. We have all turned nice
aluminum parts into scrap. I suspect that I have done more than my fair
share.
The rivet gauge is used to measure the quality of the rivet AFTER it
is set. The hole in the appropriate gauge measures whether or not the
shop head is large enough. Ideally, the shop head should be just
slightly too large to go into the hole. The notch measures whether or
not the shop head is "high" enough. Ideally, the shop head should be
just slightly higher than the notch.
You also want your shop ends to be circular, not slumped or malformed.
I suggest you get a couple of pieces of scrap and set a bunch of rivets
until you get the hang of it. After you have done a bunch, drill them
out and do them again.
Setting rivets with a gun is a skill that takes practise. This is
especially true of the AN470 rivets which can be a bit tricky especially
when you start.
Cheers
Les
#40643
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From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick Lark
Sent: November-16-09 7:37 PM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: Re: Rudder etc
Hi Vernon
I have searched through AC43-13 numerous times and can't find any
torque values. I'll take another look. The Standard Aircraft Handbook
is on my X-mas list.
I have been involved in balancing the rudder on my Cardinal so I will
consult our maintenance guy.
I hate to ask stupid questions, but will anyway. I have a rivet gauge
but didn't know how to use it. I get the feeling the little notches are
to gauge the rivet length that sticks out before you form the shop
head??
I wish I had asked that question before I riveted the rudder hinges
onto the spar.
Thx for your advise.
Regards, Rick
----- Original Message -----
From: Vernon Smith
To: RV 10 list
Sent: Monday, November 16, 2009 11:36 AM
Subject: RE: Rudder etc
Hi Rick,
The torque ranges should be in the Standard Aircraft Handbook and
AC43-13 Aircraft Inspection, Repair and Alteration. If you don't have
copies of these they are very good and useful guides to have on hand.
As for rudder balancing, the plans are a little sparse. There are
some ranges in the finishing kit's instructions. But it only gives
ranges. If you know an A&P with a set of Cessna repair manuals threre is
a section in their manual that outlines how to build a balancing arm and
jig. Also discusses how to use it. Keep in mind that when you paint it
will effect the balance as well.
Through out the project you will find some rivets called out in the
plans are off in length. Just use your rivet gauge before driving if a
rivet is in question. As the project progresses you will find may times
by eyeing a rivet you will know if it is too ling or short. Then just
trade it out for the right length. As for the shop head size the two
reference books mentioned above should take about the min/max range for
rivet head size.
Congratulation on your project & enjoy the build,
Vern Smith (#324 Finishing?)
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From: jrlark@bmts.com
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: Rudder etc
Date: Sun, 15 Nov 2009 19:06:12 -0500
Hi all
A couple of questions
1) Where do I find torque values for the #6 structural screws that I
have used to attach the rudder stops to the lower rudder hinge?
2) I have just started the rudder and will be adding electric rudder
trim. Before I make some serious cuts in the rudder skin I want to do
some research into how the rudder is balanced, and thus make a few
calculations. Where are the instructions about how the rudder is
balanced? I only have the empanage kit home at present and I can't find
anything regarding balancing.
3) When I rivetted the lower rudder hinge onto the VS rear spar it
seems the rivets called out by Vans are a bit short. Did anyone else
run into this? Also it seems some rivets are also too long. If the
shop head is the proper diameter, does it matter if it's a little bit
thicker?
Sorry for the neophyte type questions but I gotta get this right.
Thx, Rick
#40956
Southampton, Ont
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