Hi Rick=2C
OK your first email caught me at work without any reference material. So th
e Standard Aircraft Handbook lists torque values down to an 8-32 which 12-1
5 inch pounds. But not the #6 screws sorry to miss lead you. I also checked
Van's literature but they only go down to a AN3 (same as a 10-32.) The ran
ge for this is 20-25 inch pounds. I'm afraid this is as close as I have fou
nd.
There are no stupid questions! Just a learning curve we all go through. Bas
ically the holes in the gauge are a go no-go test for the various sized riv
ets. The gauge hole will just fit over the driven shop head with no play fr
om side to side. If it has play then it need a little more driving. If the
rivet is slightly to big to fit in the hole that is OK. As for gauging the
thickness=2C you are right that is what the little notch is for. The height
of the notch represent the minimum head thickness required. Most likely af
ter driving a few thousand rivet that you can just look at a rivet and know
if it is under or over driven.
But your original question delt with how thick can a rivet head be. There i
s alot of info on what the perfect rivet should look like but few want to c
omment on what is good enough. The good news is there is a military spec sh
eet that cover this issue and Van's has it on there website the link is: ht
tp://www.vansaircraft.com/public/Specs.htm This reference has saved me many
sleepless nights!
Enjoy=2C
Vern
From: jrlark@bmts.com
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: Re: Rudder etc
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 2009 10:07:58 PM PST
Hi Vernon
I have searched through AC43-13 numerous times and can't
find any torque values. I'll take another look. The Standard
Aircraft Handbook is on my X-mas list.
I have been involved in balancing the rudder on my
Cardinal so I will consult our maintenance guy.
I hate to ask stupid questions=2C but will anyway. I
have a rivet gauge but didn't know how to use it. I get the feeling the
little notches are to gauge the rivet length that sticks out before you for
m the
shop head??
I wish I had asked that question before I riveted the
rudder hinges onto the spar.
Thx for your advise.
Regards=2C Rick
----- Original Message -----
From:
Vernon
Smith
To: RV 10 list
Sent: Monday=2C November 16=2C 2009 11:36
AM
Subject: RE: Rudder etc
Hi Rick=2C
The torque ranges should be in the
Standard Aircraft Handbook and AC43-13 Aircraft Inspection=2C Repair and
Alteration. If you don't have copies of these they are very good and usef
ul
guides to have on hand.
As for rudder balancing=2C the plans
are a little sparse. There are some ranges in
the finishing kit's instructions. But it only gives ranges. If you
know an A&P with a set of Cessna repair manuals threre is a section in
their manual that outlines how to build a balancing arm and jig.
Also discusses how to use it. Keep in mind that when you paint it
will effect the balance as well.
Through out the project you
will find some rivets called out in the plans are off in length. Just use
your rivet gauge before driving if a rivet is in question. As the project
progresses you will find may times by eyeing a rivet you will know if it
is
too ling or short. Then just trade it out for the right length. As for
the shop head size the two reference books mentioned above should take
about the min/max range for rivet head size.
Congratulation on
your project & enjoy the build=2C
Vern Smith (#324
Finishing?)
From: jrlark@bmts.com
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject:
Rudder etc
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 2009 10:07:58 PM PST
Hi all
A couple of questions
1) Where do I find torque values for the #6
structural screws that I have used to attach the rudder stops to the lowe
r
rudder hinge?
2) I have just started the rudder and will be
adding electric rudder trim. Before I make some serious cuts in the
rudder skin I want to do some research into how the rudder is balanced=2C
and
thus make a few calculations. Where are the instructions about how the
rudder is balanced? I only have the empanage kit home at present and I
can't find anything regarding balancing.
3) When I rivetted the lower rudder hinge
onto the VS rear spar it seems the rivets called out by Vans are a bit
short. Did anyone else run into this? Also it seems some rivets
are also too long. If the shop head is the proper diameter=2C does it
matter if it's a little bit thicker?
Sorry for the neophyte type questions but I gotta
get this right.
Thx=2C Rick
#40956
Southampton=2C Ont
lectric.com
/">www.buildersbooks.com
ebuilthelp.com
ww.matronics.com/contribution
ttp://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
ronics.com
Windows 7: It works the way you want. Learn more.
href="http://www.aeroelectric.com">www.aeroelectric.com
href="http://www.buildersbooks.com">www.buildersbooks.com
href="http://www.homebuilthelp.com">www.homebuilthelp.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/chr
ef="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.co
m/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
_________________________________________________________________
Windows 7: I wanted simpler=2C now it's simpler. I'm a rock star.
http://www.microsoft.com/Windows/windows-7/default.aspx?h=myidea?ocid=P
ID24727::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-US:WWL_WIN_myidea:112009
