We have used the following technique successfully on two aircraft , Glastar
and RV10. We use bent aluminum fingers; a 1/2" wide by 3 " by .040 strip has
a cleco hole on one end and a masking tape wrap on the other. cleco holes
for these "fingers" are drilled at 4-6" intervals around the glass. these
are numbered and are placed when the window is glued. After curing, the
fingers are removed and the edge of the window sanded smooth. Then two one
inch strips of E-glass , cut on a 45 bias, are glued around the windows to
secure the window in the frame and fill the mounting holes. More work but
the neither the window or the frame crack. We learned this technique at
Phoenix Composites who have been doing this for years with all manner of
composite aircraft.
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Gonzalez
Sent: Monday, November 16, 2009 10:24 PM
To: RV 10 group
Subject: RE: Tips on removal of front window and lessons learned
I can only imagine the feeling of having to redo a windscreen due to cracks,
)^%&*^2208&^*66&769q!!!!
Thought i would post a few pict on how I glued in my windscreen. I had heard
about all the craze line issues and I even went as far as to purchase five
tubes of Sikaflex for the side windows. I never used the sikaflex so if
anyone want to purchase the five tubes for a quarter of what it cost me, let
me know.
The key to clamping the windscreen IMO in is distribution of pressure. I
used several laminations of 1/16" ply, aircraft modeling plywood to
distribute the force. The pictures should tell the story. Also, I used
wooden wedges to push down on the plexi where needed. Note the 3/4" ply used
across the top of the canopy, clamped to the canopy, but it is the wedges
which are pushing down on the plexi. This entire process is a two person
process and it needs to be rehearsed. One person should spread the Weld On
on the canopy rim while the other is doing the windscreen edge. Pressure to
the windscreen should be applied at the top and then incrementally going out
to the sides, each side at the same time. Tape should be placed on the
inside of the windcreen and outside with the inside tape removed once the
window is clamped. Get all the hairs of WeldOn off the plexi immediately.
_____
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 2009 05:05:13 AM PST
From: aarongleixner@sbcglobal.net
Subject: Tips on removal of front window and lessons learned
To: RV10-list@matronics.com
I just got off the phone with Van's after paying $470 for a new front
window. I had approximately 50 small cracks starting at the glue joint, and
extending about 1/8 inch beyond the glue joint. After reading all the
warnings about not clamping when glueing the windows, I added a clamp in one
location to hold the plexi tight, and all the cracks started under the
clamp. While clamping pressure may not be the only variable for crack
formation, it is definitely a strong contributing factor. So for those
about to complete this step, avoid the clamps, and use plenty of glue to
bridge any small gaps that might result.
Now for the question. Has anyone else had to remove a front window? At
this point, I only need to remove the glue joint. How was it accomplished?
Van's said someone routed out a window, but I was wondering if lots of heat
from a heat gun, and a little prying might separate the glue from the
fiberglass. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Aaron
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