David: did you do something similar like the fingers when doing the back w
indows? I am hoping to try those again on the next warm weekend day after h
aving cracked one by clamping it.
From: dlm46007@cox.net
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: RE: Tips on removal of front window and lessons learned
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 2009 06:28:29 PM PST
We have used the following technique successfully on two aircraft =2C Glast
ar and RV10. We use bent aluminum fingers=3B a 1/2" wide by 3 " by .040 str
ip has a cleco hole on one end and a masking tape wrap on the other. cleco
holes for these "fingers" are drilled at 4-6" intervals around the glass. t
hese are numbered and are placed when the window is glued. After curing=2C
the fingers are removed and the edge of the window sanded smooth. Then two
one inch strips of E-glass =2C cut on a 45 bias=2C are glued around the win
dows to secure the window in the frame and fill the mounting holes. More wo
rk but the neither the window or the frame crack. We learned this technique
at Phoenix Composites who have been doing this for years with all manner o
f composite aircraft.
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of John Gonzalez
Sent: Monday=2C November 16=2C 2009 10:24 PM
To: RV 10 group
Subject: RE: Tips on removal of front window and lessons learned
I can only imagine the feeling of having to redo a windscreen due to cracks
=2C )^%&*^2208&^*66&769q!!!!
Thought i would post a few pict on how I glued in my windscreen. I had hear
d about all the craze line issues and I even went as far as to purchase fiv
e tubes of Sikaflex for the side windows. I never used the sikaflex so if a
nyone want to purchase the five tubes for a quarter of what it cost me=2C l
et me know.
The key to clamping the windscreen IMO in is distribution of pressure. I us
ed several laminations of 1/16" ply=2C aircraft modeling plywood to distrib
ute the force. The pictures should tell the story. Also=2C I used wooden we
dges to push down on the plexi where needed. Note the 3/4" ply used across
the top of the canopy=2C clamped to the canopy=2C but it is the wedges whic
h are pushing down on the plexi. This entire process is a two person proces
s and it needs to be rehearsed. One person should spread the Weld On on the
canopy rim while the other is doing the windscreen edge. Pressure to the w
indscreen should be applied at the top and then incrementally going out to
the sides=2C each side at the same time. Tape should be placed on the insid
e of the windcreen and outside with the inside tape removed once the window
is clamped. Get all the hairs of WeldOn off the plexi immediately.
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 2009 06:28:29 PM PST
From: aarongleixner@sbcglobal.net
Subject: Tips on removal of front window and lessons learned
To: RV10-list@matronics.com
I just got off the phone with Van's after paying $470 for a new front windo
w. I had approximately 50 small cracks starting at the glue joint=2C and e
xtending about 1/8 inch beyond the glue joint. After reading all the warni
ngs about not clamping when glueing the windows=2C I added a clamp in one l
ocation to hold the plexi tight=2C and all the cracks started under the cla
mp. While clamping pressure may not be the only variable for crack formati
on=2C it is definitely a strong contributing factor. So for those about to
complete this step=2C avoid the clamps=2C and use plenty of glue to bridge
any small gaps that might result.
Now for the question. Has anyone else had to remove a front window? At th
is point=2C I only need to remove the glue joint. How was it accomplished?
Van's said someone routed out a window=2C but I was wondering if lots of
heat from a heat gun=2C and a little prying might separate the glue from th
e fiberglass. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Aaron
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