I too just replaced my front window. Used a router and then cleand up as ne
eded. I talked to weldon tech and they said if you do not get it all off (w
eldon) you should still get the same bond as before. I too used fingers but
my problem did not occure from that, it was through out the window. Gues w
hat Van had to say. Never seen or heard of that before. Try micro mesh. No
thanks
Here's a couple of pic of my install and what it looked like.
Patrick Thyssen
At least I got a 100hr out of it.
--- On Tue, 11/17/09, David McNeill <dlm46007@cox.net> wrote:
From: David McNeill <dlm46007@cox.net>
Subject: RE: Tips on removal of front window and lessons learned
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Date: Wed, 18 Nov 2009 06:23:03 AM PST
=0A=0A =0A#yiv259553191 .hmmessage P {=0APADDING-BOTTOM:0px;MARGIN:0px;PADD
ING-LEFT:0px;PADDING-RIGHT:0px;PADDING-TOP:0px;}=0A#yiv259553191 {=0AFONT-F
AMILY:Verdana;FONT-SIZE:10pt;}=0A=0A=0Awe used the "fingers" on all windows
.- .An even gentle pressure =0Ais exerted all round. Check with Mike Andr
esan on Friday. I showed him the =0Atechnique on his left rear window and h
e has used it on others. Or you can call =0Ame on 480-626-4048.-
=0A=0A=0AFrom: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com =0A[mailto:owner-rv10-l
ist-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Roxanne and =0AMike Lefever
Sent: Tuesday, November 17, 2009 7:27 PM
To: =0Arv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: RE: Tips on removal of =0Afront window and lessons lear
ned
=0ADavid:- did you do something similar like the fingers when doing =0Ath
e-back windows? I am-hoping to try those again-on the next =0Awarm-
weekend day after having cracked one by clamping it.
-
=0A=0AFrom: dlm46007@cox.net
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: RE: =0ATips on removal of front window and lessons lear
ned
Date: Wed, 18 Nov 2009 06:23:03 AM PST
=0A#yiv259553191 .ExternalClass .ecxhmmessage P {=0APADDING-BOTTOM:0px;PADD
ING-LEFT:0px;PADDING-RIGHT:0px;PADDING-TOP:0px;}=0A#yiv259553191 .ExternalC
lass BODY.ecxhmmessage {=0AFONT-FAMILY:Verdana;FONT-SIZE:10pt;}=0A=0A=0AWe
have used the following technique successfully on two aircraft , =0AGlastar
and RV10. We use bent aluminum fingers; a 1/2" wide by 3 " by .040 strip
=0Ahas a cleco hole on one end and a masking tape wrap on the other. cleco
holes =0Afor these "fingers" are drilled at 4-6" intervals around the glass
. these are =0Anumbered and are placed when the window is glued. After curi
ng, the fingers are =0Aremoved and the edge of the window sanded smooth. Th
en two one inch strips of =0AE-glass , cut on a 45 bias, are glued around t
he windows to secure the window in =0Athe frame and fill the mounting holes
. More work but the neither the window or =0Athe frame crack. We learned th
is technique at Phoenix Composites who have been =0Adoing this for years wi
th all manner of composite =0Aaircraft.
=0A=0A=0AFrom: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com =0A[mailto:owner-rv10-l
ist-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John =0AGonzalez
Sent: Monday, November 16, 2009 10:24 PM
To: RV 10 =0Agroup
Subject: RE: Tips on removal of front window and =0Alessons lear
ned
=0AI can only imagine the feeling of having to redo a windscreen due to =0A
cracks, )^%&*^2208&^*66&769q!!!! =0A
=0AThought i would post a few pict on how I glued in my windscreen. I had
=0Aheard about all the craze line issues and I even went as far as to purch
ase five =0Atubes of Sikaflex for the side windows. I never used the sikafl
ex so if anyone =0Awant to purchase the five tubes for a quarter of what it
cost me, let me =0Aknow.=0A
=0AThe key to clamping the windscreen IMO in is distribution of pressure. I
=0Aused several laminations of 1/16" ply, aircraft modeling plywood to dis
tribute =0Athe force. The pictures should tell the story. Also, I used wood
en wedges to =0Apush down on the plexi where needed. Note the 3/4" ply used
across the top of =0Athe canopy, clamped to the canopy, but it is the wedg
es which are pushing down =0Aon the plexi. This entire process is a two per
son process and it needs to be =0Arehearsed. One person should spread the W
eld On on the canopy rim while the =0Aother is doing the windscreen edge. P
ressure to the windscreen should be applied =0Aat the top and then incremen
tally going out to the sides, each side at the same =0Atime. Tape should be
placed on the inside of the windcreen and outside with the =0Ainside tape
removed once the window is clamped. Get all the hairs of WeldOn off =0Athe
plexi immediately.=0A
=0A
=0A=0ADate: Mon, 16 Nov 2009 17:34:47 -0800
From: =0Aaarongleixner@sbcglobal.net
Subject: Tips on removal of front =0Awindow and lessons learned
To: RV10-list@matronics.com
=0A=0A =0A =0A =0A I just got off the phone with Van's after payi
ng $470 for a new front =0A window.- I had approximately 50 small cr
acks starting at the glue =0A joint, and extending about 1/8 inch beyo
nd the glue joint.- After =0A reading all the warnings about not cla
mping when glueing the windows, I =0A added a clamp in one location to
hold the plexi tight, and all the cracks =0A started under the clamp.
- While clamping pressure may not be the only =0A variable for crack
formation, it is definitely a strong contributing =0A factor.- So f
or those about to complete this step, avoid the clamps, =0A and use pl
enty of glue to bridge any small gaps that might result.=0A -=0A
Now for the question.- Has anyone else had to remove a front =0A w
indow?- At this point, I only need to remove the glue joint.- =0A
How was it accomplished?- Van's said someone routed out a window, but =0A
I was wondering if lots of heat from a heat gun, and a little prying
might =0A separate the glue from the fiberglass.- Any suggestions wo
uld be =0A greatly appreciated.=0A -=0A Aaron-
ectric.com
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