Do Van's has selective amnesia then because I sent them a similar
picture 2 years ago.....
Sent from my iPhone
On Nov 18, 2009, at 9:12 AM, Patrick Thyssen <jump2@sbcglobal.net>
wrote:
> I too just replaced my front window. Used a router and then cleand
> up as needed. I talked to weldon tech and they said if you do not
> get it all off (weldon) you should still get the same bond as
> before. I too used fingers but my problem did not occure from that,
> it was through out the window. Gues what Van had to say. Never seen
> or heard of that before. Try micro mesh. No thanks
> Here's a couple of pic of my install and what it looked like.
> Patrick Thyssen
> At least I got a 100hr out of it.
>
> --- On Tue, 11/17/09, David McNeill <dlm46007@cox.net> wrote:
>
> From: David McNeill <dlm46007@cox.net>
> Subject: RE: Tips on removal of front window and lessons
> learned
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Date: Tuesday, November 17, 2009, 9:19 PM
>
> we used the "fingers" on all windows. .An even gentle pressure is
> exerted all round. Check with Mike Andresan on Friday. I showed him
> the technique on his left rear window and he has used it on others.
> Or you can call me on 480-626-4048.
>
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-
> server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Roxanne and Mike Lefever
> Sent: Tuesday, November 17, 2009 7:27 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: Tips on removal of front window and lessons
> learned
>
> David: did you do something similar like the fingers when doing the
> back windows? I am hoping to try those again on the next warm
> weekend day after having cracked one by clamping it.
>
> From: dlm46007@cox.net
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: Tips on removal of front window and lessons
> learned
> Date: Tue, 17 Nov 2009 06:04:19 -0700
>
> We have used the following technique successfully on two aircraft ,
> Glastar and RV10. We use bent aluminum fingers; a 1/2" wide by 3 "
> by .040 strip has a cleco hole on one end and a masking tape wrap on
> the other. cleco holes for these "fingers" are drilled at 4-6"
> intervals around the glass. these are numbered and are placed when
> the window is glued. After curing, the fingers are removed and the
> edge of the window sanded smooth. Then two one inch strips of E-
> glass , cut on a 45 bias, are glued around the windows to secure the
> window in the frame and fill the mounting holes. More work but the
> neither the window or the frame crack. We learned this technique at
> Phoenix Composites who have been doing this for years with all
> manner of composite aircraft.
>
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-
> server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Gonzalez
> Sent: Monday, November 16, 2009 10:24 PM
> To: RV 10 group
> Subject: RE: Tips on removal of front window and lessons
> learned
>
> I can only imagine the feeling of having to redo a windscreen due to
> cracks, )^%&*^2208&^*66&769q!!!!
>
> Thought i would post a few pict on how I glued in my windscreen. I
> had heard about all the craze line issues and I even went as far as
> to purchase five tubes of Sikaflex for the side windows. I never
> used the sikaflex so if anyone want to purchase the five tubes for a
> quarter of what it cost me, let me know.
>
> The key to clamping the windscreen IMO in is distribution of
> pressure. I used several laminations of 1/16" ply, aircraft modeling
> plywood to distribute the force. The pictures should tell the story.
> Also, I used wooden wedges to push down on the plexi where needed.
> Note the 3/4" ply used across the top of the canopy, clamped to the
> canopy, but it is the wedges which are pushing down on the plexi.
> This entire process is a two person process and it needs to be
> rehearsed. One person should spread the Weld On on the canopy rim
> while the other is doing the windscreen edge. Pressure to the
> windscreen should be applied at the top and then incrementally going
> out to the sides, each side at the same time. Tape should be placed
> on the inside of the windcreen and outside with the inside tape
> removed once the window is clamped. Get all the hairs of WeldOn off
> the plexi immediately.
>
>
> Date: Mon, 16 Nov 2009 17:34:47 -0800
> From: aarongleixner@sbcglobal.net
> Subject: Tips on removal of front window and lessons
> learned
> To: RV10-list@matronics.com
>
> I just got off the phone with Van's after paying $470 for a new
> front window. I had approximately 50 small cracks starting at the
> glue joint, and extending about 1/8 inch beyond the glue joint.
> After reading all the warnings about not clamping when glueing the
> windows, I added a clamp in one location to hold the plexi tight,
> and all the cracks started under the clamp. While clamping pressure
> may not be the only variable for crack formation, it is definitely a
> strong contributing factor. So for those about to complete this
> step, avoid the clamps, and use plenty of glue to bridge any small
> gaps that might result.
>
> Now for the question. Has anyone else had to remove a front
> window? At this point, I only need to remove the glue joint. How
> was it accomplished? Van's said someone routed out a window, but I
> was wondering if lots of heat from a heat gun, and a little prying
> might separate the glue from the fiberglass. Any suggestions would
> be greatly appreciated.
>
> Aaron
>
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