Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:12 AM - Dead Sealed Battery (villi.seemann@nordea.com)
2. 05:24 AM - Re: PTT wiring (Peter Laurence)
3. 06:20 AM - Re: citabria triiong overvoltage relay (John Karnes)
4. 06:40 AM - Re: PTT wiring (Neil McLeod)
5. 07:07 AM - Ground block question (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
6. 07:19 AM - Re: Dead Sealed Battery (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
7. 07:28 AM - Re: PTT wiring (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
8. 07:31 AM - Re: citabria triiong overvoltage relay (Joe and Carole Tuminello)
9. 07:40 AM - Re: Ground block question (mprather@spro.net)
10. 07:40 AM - Re: Ground block question (Ron Raby)
11. 07:42 AM - Re: citabria triiong overvoltage relay (Joe and Carole Tuminello)
12. 07:46 AM - Re: citabria triiong overvoltage relay (Joe and Carole Tuminello)
13. 08:08 AM - Re: citabria triiong overvoltage relay (Joe and Carole Tuminello)
14. 08:13 AM - Breaker or Fuse on Main Alt FLD (Jim Pack)
15. 08:21 AM - Re: PTT wiring (Bob Haan)
16. 08:41 AM - Re: citabria triiong overvoltage relay (Stephen Johnson)
17. 08:45 AM - Re: citabria triiong overvoltage relay (David Swartzendruber)
18. 10:02 AM - Re: Ground block question (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
19. 10:02 AM - Re: Ground block question (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
20. 10:03 AM - Re: Ground block question (DHPHKH@aol.com)
21. 10:43 AM - Re: Ground block question (Ron Raby)
22. 12:35 PM - Re: Ground block question (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
23. 01:36 PM - Re: Ground block question (N823ms@aol.com)
24. 01:41 PM - Re: Ground block question (N823ms@aol.com)
25. 03:06 PM - UMA light bezels (BillRVSIX@aol.com)
26. 03:36 PM - alternator leads (LRE2@aol.com)
27. 03:43 PM - Master disconnect for elec trim & Autopilot (William Slaughter)
28. 03:48 PM - Re: UMA light bezels (CozyGirrrl@aol.com)
29. 04:26 PM - Re: UMA light bezels (David Swartzendruber)
30. 05:27 PM - Re: UMA light bezels (CozyGirrrl@aol.com)
31. 06:38 PM - Re: UMA light bezels (John Schroeder)
32. 07:56 PM - Re: UMA light bezels (Jim & Jeanette Oberst)
33. 08:20 PM - Re: UMA light bezels (Paul McAllister)
34. 08:49 PM - Re: UMA light bezels (Jim Jewell)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Dead Sealed Battery |
10-12-2002 14:11:04,
Itemize by SMTP Server on THOR/Unibank_Ext02(Release 5.0.4a |July 24, 2000)
at
10-12-2002 14:09:40,
Serialize by Router on THOR/Unibank_Ext02(Release 5.0.4a |July 24, 2000)
at
10-12-2002 14:09:55,
Serialize complete at 10-12-2002 14:09:55
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: villi.seemann@nordea.com
Dear Bob
I have a sealed, and presumeably gelled, battery. Idle voltage is 13.2 V.
If I load it with the slightest load i.e. 12V/1W lamp the voltage drops to
nothing within 10-15 secs.
Two-three minutes later it again shows 13.2 volts. (exercise repeatet
several times)
The battery will not take any charge for more than a couple of seconds,
neither at 14.8 volts or at 28 for that matter.
Have you heard of similar problems with sealed batteries, and do you know
what the cause is.
Do you beleive a pulsed desulfator could bring it back to life, or should I
just scrap it ?
Regards
Villi H. Seemann
Senior Engineer
Infrastructure Network
Phone (+45) 3333 2101
FAX (+45) 3333 1130
CellPhn (+45)2220 7690
Message 2
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Peter Laurence <dr.laurence@mbdi.org>
Neil
Use a good quality switch, 22ga wire and place a small connector that will
fit in the control tube. Try a Dean's connector. This is used for radio
control models and can be purchased at Tower Hobbies.
Peter
> Looking for suggestions on how to and what kind of wire to use to wire the
PTT's on the sticks of my RV-7. Any tricks to providing for the slack at the
bottom of the sticks to allow movement without interference or fatiguing the
wire?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Neil McLeod
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: citabria triiong overvoltage relay |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "John Karnes" <jpkarnes@charter.net>
The ampmeter jumps up and overvolts cuttign off the alternator.
Resest it and it does it again and again.
Joe-
I am having the same problem. I wrote Bob and he said that the older OV
modules are causing "nuisance trips" and to send the OV module to him for
replacement.
John Karnes
Zenith 601 HDS
Bremerton, WA
Message 4
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Neil McLeod" <bedrock@theriver.com>
Thanks for the reply Peter, I am a RCer so I am familier with Dean's. Good
idea.
Neil
----- Original Message -----
From: "Peter Laurence" <dr.laurence@mbdi.org>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: PTT wiring
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Peter Laurence
<dr.laurence@mbdi.org>
>
> Neil
>
> Use a good quality switch, 22ga wire and place a small connector that will
> fit in the control tube. Try a Dean's connector. This is used for radio
> control models and can be purchased at Tower Hobbies.
>
>
> Peter
>
> > Looking for suggestions on how to and what kind of wire to use to wire
the
> PTT's on the sticks of my RV-7. Any tricks to providing for the slack at
the
> bottom of the sticks to allow movement without interference or fatiguing
the
> wire?
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Neil McLeod
> >
> >
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Ground block question |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
>RV9 project: After reading your book I'm still confused about
>grounding. I'd like to mount the groundblock on the subpanel of my RV9 so
>all the instruments ground wires don't have to be spliced, and then run a
>large connecting wire back to the main firewall ground bolt. Is this
>acceptable or is it too many connections and a possible interference problem ?
This would probably work. It's no worse than certified ships of the
past that had no rational plan for grounding. However, the system
works best when used as prescribed by mounting on the firewall and
extending individual system grounds to
> I have the sliding canopy version so once the foredeck skin goes down
> it's practically impossible to work up under there. By moving the
> connections up to the subpanel it's easy to remove the panel for future
> maintenance, modifications, etc.
Understand. Lots of things about our favorite toys
are in the "pretty hard" pile, perhaps even difficult.
If it were my airplane, the ground block would go on the
firewall. If you can't put a new wire into a connector
pin long enough to reach the firewall ground block, then
it's a simple matter to solder a lap-joint and cover with
heat-shrink. This makes a very low-bulk splice that
co-exists very nicely with other wires in a bundle.
I will invite you to join us on the AeroElectric List
to continue this and similar discussions. It's useful to
share the information with as many folks as possible.
You can join at . . .
http://www.matronics.com/subscribe/
Thanks!
Bob . . .
|---------------------------------------------------|
| A lie can travel half way around the world while |
| the truth is till putting on its shoes . . . |
| -Mark Twain- |
|---------------------------------------------------|
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Dead Sealed Battery |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 02:11 PM 12/10/2002 +0100, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: villi.seemann@nordea.com
>
>Dear Bob
>
>I have a sealed, and presumeably gelled, battery. Idle voltage is 13.2 V.
>If I load it with the slightest load i.e. 12V/1W lamp the voltage drops to
>nothing within 10-15 secs.
>Two-three minutes later it again shows 13.2 volts. (exercise repeatet
>several times)
>The battery will not take any charge for more than a couple of seconds,
>neither at 14.8 volts or at 28 for that matter.
>Have you heard of similar problems with sealed batteries, and do you know
>what the cause is.
>Do you beleive a pulsed desulfator could bring it back to life, or should I
>just scrap it ?
If you only fly day-vfr and never depend on the battery for
standby power, then perhaps some form of resurrection
procedure would be useful. My studies into the benefits
of de-sulfators got sidetracked and I'm not prepared
at this time to recommend them for any purpose on an airplane.
If there is any chance that you might need the battery
to do something other than crank the engine,
I'd put a new battery in . . . in fact, buy a cheap one
and replace it every year. See chapter 17
at http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/Rev9/ch17-9.pdf
Bob . . .
|-------------------------------------------------------|
| The man who does not read good books has no advantage |
| over the man who cannot read them. |
| - Mark Twain |
|-------------------------------------------------------|
Message 7
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 01:43 PM 12/9/2002 -0700, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Neil McLeod" <bedrock@theriver.com>
>
>Looking for suggestions on how to and what kind of wire to use to wire the
>PTT's on the sticks of my RV-7. Any tricks to providing for the slack at
>the bottom of the sticks to allow movement without interference or
>fatiguing the wire?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Neil McLeod
We had a similar discussion on this topic a few weeks ago.
Copy attached . . .
------------------------
>
>I bought a Ray Allen stick grip with the switches on top. I was slightly
>surprised to see the same fine wires as used on the servo supplied for this.
>They indicate the switches and by implication the wires will handle 5amps.
They are probably RATED at 5A, and similarly 22AWG wire is RATED for
5A in wire bundles . . . this is separate from what the system might
truly need for normal operation.
>I was planning to put
>a) the trim
>b) PTT
>c) Navaid quick disconnect (power to the servo) through the stick. (Not
>sure what this might be drawing - 2 or 3 amps max.?)
Use a relay to carry power and use stick grip
switches to control relay.
>d) This results in about 7 wires (from memory)
>
>I could use a heavier gauge wire but it might be very hard to get it all in,
>and also I worry it would put 'friction' in the stick movement.
Stay with the small wire.
>So my questions are:
>1) Would you consider using these fine wires in such an application just up
>and down the stick to a barrier block near by? (Then thicker wire as you
>discussed.)
I wouldn't use barrier strips (threaded fasteners . . . UGH!). A
d-sub connector would be a good way to make the transition from
tiny-wires to handy-wires, something like
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/macservo/macservo.html
In the next to the last image, tiny-wires are running out to
the servo, handy-wires run to the rest of the system. In this
case, tiny-wires might run up your control stick, handy-wires
run from an UN-modified d-sub mounted to a bracket near
lower end of the control stick.
>2) Do you feel a relay to break the Navaid supply is essential?
yes
>3) What is the best way to get the wires 'off' the stick. I have seen two
>approaches:
>a) Making the longest loop possible and let it hang down as far as possible
>and then over to a grommet (ensuring full stick movement.)
>b) Take it first onto spanwise tube connecting the two sticks using just
>enough wire to allow for full aileron movement and then from as close to the
>rotation point of that tube onto the structure this time allowing for
>elevator movement.
>
>It seems the endless movement of these wires must be a weakness in any
>aircraft and I want them to be 'happy' but I do not want to feel that they
>are there!
Even if you made these wires 22AWG, you wouldn't "feel" them. The
mechanical advantage of stick length above the pivot versus
length below the pivot will prevent this. A bigger wire is not
less prone to flex-failure . . . rather the opposite is true.
See chapter on wire.
At Cessna, about 1968, we did some studies in the experimental
shop to show suitability of certain wires to take trim and
PTT lines off the control yoke tube onto some point on the
airframe. Taking a cue from what we knew about the relative
robustness of welding cable with respect to flexing (a bizillion
strands of copper cat hair) we looked around for handy-wire
with similar characteristics.
I seem to recall the lucky supplier was a product called
"Spectra Strip" (now part of Amphenol but don't recall if
they were back then) had a ribbon cable with exceedingly
fine stranding. Seems each conductor was 105 strands of
very fine wire used to make up a 26AWG conductor . . . small
but still usable. We put tiny PIDG terminals on each strand
and tied them off on miniature barrier strips.
We set up a test to exercise a control yoke mockup over
full cycles of pitch and roll for over a million cycles
with no evidence that the wire had degraded in any way.
Now, what does this mean for the average OBAM aircraft
builder? Not much I suspect. If you use ordinary 22AWG
aircraft wire (19-strand) and make your transistion from
the stick to airframe with a generous radius (6") and
attention to support so that the slack doesn't rub the
airframe, I sincerely doubt that you'll experience any
difficulties with this wire over the time you own the
airplane . . . and let's suppose it DOES break a strand
in, say the next ten years . . . how bit a deal is is
to diagnose and refurbish for another ten-years of service?
I think I'd use 22AWG and if possible try to make
the transition from moving controls to airframe in
a way that tends to twist/untwist a bundle as opposed
to flexing it. I'd also try to take as much advantage as
possible of machined-pin, d-subs for interconnection
but whatever you decided to do, don't spend much time
worrying about it.
Bob . .
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: citabria triiong overvoltage relay |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Joe and Carole Tuminello <mouseysf@pacbell.net>
The alternator is on whnevere the engoine is runnig. Sometimes the ameter
spikes over to 60 and the oovervoltage relay trips, sometimes it just rips
without the needle spiking. Thats usualyy after a start when the needle
would be over around plus 30 and declining.
I dont have a variable power supply. Hows the bench test work, if i did have
on
thank you,
Joe Tuminello
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Swartzendruber" <dswartzendruber@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: citabria triiong overvoltage relay
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "David Swartzendruber"
<dswartzendruber@earthlink.net>
>
> Does it only do it when you turn on the alternator switch? Do you have a
> variable voltage power supply that you could use to bench test the voltage
> regulator?
>
> David Swartzendruber
> Wichita
> >
> > I have had the same problem in my citabria as reported on July 23,2001
> > > by wx30. The ampmeter jumps up and overvolts cuttign off the
alternator.
> > > Resest it and it does it again and again. I have a new alternator,
> > >only 3 years old. The battery is 3 years old also and has plenty of
> > > cranking power. Someone is trying to convince me the battery has a
> > > shorted cell.,
> > Before I end up replacing the battery and voltage regulator, does anyone
> have any ideas?
> > > thanks joe
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Ground block question |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: mprather@spro.net
Hi Bob,
I would just add, as has been discussed before, that one of the
nice things about using fast-on tabs and crimp connectors is that
you don't absolutely have to be able to see what you are wiring
at the same time you are making connections. I have been finishing
the wiring on my VariEze. Much of it resides in the 'hell hole'
which is the space between the rear seat and the firewall. There
is an 8 inch hole through the seat back which is the only access
to the area. Wiring in there hasn't been painless, but I can only
imagine how bad it would be if I were trying to make all of the
connections with all soldered joints, or worse yet, screw terminals.
Uhhhgg. BTW, I have found that sometimes an inspection mirror is
quite a useful tool.
Thanks for the continuing help.
Matt Prather
N34RD
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Ground block question
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
> <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
>
> >RV9 project: After reading your book I'm still confused about
> >grounding. I'd like to mount the groundblock on the subpanel of
> my RV9 so
> >all the instruments ground wires don't have to be spliced, and
> then run a
> >large connecting wire back to the main firewall ground bolt. Is
> this
> >acceptable or is it too many connections and a possible
> interference problem ?
>
> This would probably work. It's no worse than certified ships of
> the past that had no rational plan for grounding. However, the
> system works best when used as prescribed by mounting on the
> firewall and
> extending individual system grounds to
>
>
> > I have the sliding canopy version so once the foredeck skin
> goes down
> > it's practically impossible to work up under there. By moving
> the
> > connections up to the subpanel it's easy to remove the panel for
> future
> > maintenance, modifications, etc.
>
>
> Understand. Lots of things about our favorite toys
> are in the "pretty hard" pile, perhaps even difficult.
> If it were my airplane, the ground block would go on the
> firewall. If you can't put a new wire into a connector
> pin long enough to reach the firewall ground block, then
> it's a simple matter to solder a lap-joint and cover with
> heat-shrink. This makes a very low-bulk splice that
> co-exists very nicely with other wires in a bundle.
>
> I will invite you to join us on the AeroElectric List
> to continue this and similar discussions. It's useful to
> share the information with as many folks as possible.
> You can join at . . .
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscribe/
>
> Thanks!
>
> Bob . . .
>
> |---------------------------------------------------|
> | A lie can travel half way around the world while |
> | the truth is till putting on its shoes . . . |
> | -Mark Twain- |
> |---------------------------------------------------|
>
>
> _-
>
> _-> _-
>
- The AeroElectric-List Email Forum -
> _-
>
======================================================================_-!! NEWish
!!
> _-
>
======================================================================_-List Related
Information
> _-
> ======================================================================
>
>
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>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Ground block question |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Ron Raby" <ronr@advanceddesign.com>
This is a little of the subject but I also have a grounding question. I am
working on A lancair ES. The batteries are installed in the tail end of the
plane. Is it advisable to tie the battery grounds together at the rear of
the plane and run one wire to the firewall ground stud?
Ron Raby
N829R
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Ground block question
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
<bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
>
>
> >RV9 project: After reading your book I'm still confused about
> >grounding. I'd like to mount the groundblock on the subpanel of my RV9
so
> >all the instruments ground wires don't have to be spliced, and then run a
> >large connecting wire back to the main firewall ground bolt. Is this
> >acceptable or is it too many connections and a possible interference
problem ?
>
> This would probably work. It's no worse than certified ships of the
> past that had no rational plan for grounding. However, the system
> works best when used as prescribed by mounting on the firewall and
> extending individual system grounds to
>
>
> > I have the sliding canopy version so once the foredeck skin goes down
> > it's practically impossible to work up under there. By moving the
> > connections up to the subpanel it's easy to remove the panel for future
> > maintenance, modifications, etc.
>
>
> Understand. Lots of things about our favorite toys
> are in the "pretty hard" pile, perhaps even difficult.
> If it were my airplane, the ground block would go on the
> firewall. If you can't put a new wire into a connector
> pin long enough to reach the firewall ground block, then
> it's a simple matter to solder a lap-joint and cover with
> heat-shrink. This makes a very low-bulk splice that
> co-exists very nicely with other wires in a bundle.
>
> I will invite you to join us on the AeroElectric List
> to continue this and similar discussions. It's useful to
> share the information with as many folks as possible.
> You can join at . . .
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscribe/
>
> Thanks!
>
> Bob . . .
>
> |---------------------------------------------------|
> | A lie can travel half way around the world while |
> | the truth is till putting on its shoes . . . |
> | -Mark Twain- |
> |---------------------------------------------------|
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: citabria triiong overvoltage relay |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Joe and Carole Tuminello <mouseysf@pacbell.net>
Dear John,
I am new and I do not know who Bob is. Do I get a certified part back? , (I
have a certified airplane not a homebuilt.
I guess you have a citabria too? Mine is a 1979 gcbc.) Or can I get a
replacement elsewhere?
I would appreciate any details you can give me.
Thanks for your response. I actually had a new battery delivered the other
day and have not installed it yet..The battery I have cranks fine and I cant
believe it is the cause.
Regards,
Joe
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Karnes" <jpkarnes@charter.net>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: citabria triiong overvoltage relay
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "John Karnes"
<jpkarnes@charter.net>
>
> The ampmeter jumps up and overvolts cuttign off the alternator.
> Resest it and it does it again and again.
>
> Joe-
> I am having the same problem. I wrote Bob and he said that the older OV
> modules are causing "nuisance trips" and to send the OV module to him for
> replacement.
>
> John Karnes
> Zenith 601 HDS
> Bremerton, WA
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: citabria triiong overvoltage relay |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Joe and Carole Tuminello <mouseysf@pacbell.net>
Matt,
Thanks the old battery is fine. It reads the full voltage static, I think
12.8 volts. Somebody else having a similar problem says it is most likely
the old over voltage relay causing nuisance trips. We shall see.
Thank you
Joe
----- Original Message -----
From: "Matt Prather" <mprather@spro.net>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: citabria triiong overvoltage relay
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Matt Prather <mprather@spro.net>
>
> Do you have an AC battery charger? Have you tried to charge the
> battery? Do you have a voltmeter. With everything turned off, what
> voltage do you see across the battery. If you have a shorted cell, I
> believe the battery will show about 1.2V below what a normal battery
> shows. Is it a flooded cell battery?
>
> I believe that the only time the OV module trips is when the voltage
> across it is above the setpoint. A shorted cell shouldn't cause this
> overvoltage condition. I believe you need to look elsewhere. It sounds
> like either a bad regulator, a bad OV module, or possibly, low voltage
> to the sense lead for the regulator (a resistive connection) Or maybe a
> bad ground to the regulator. If the regulator can't see the full
> voltage of
> the system, it will attempt increase the output of the alternator. Once
it
> has increased the output of the alternator above the trip point for the OV
> module, it gets shut down.
>
> Not sure if that helps.
>
> Matt Prather
> N34RD
>
> Joe and Carole Tuminello wrote:
>
> >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Joe and Carole Tuminello
<mouseysf@pacbell.net>
> >
> >I have had the same problem in my citabria as reported on July 23,2001
> >
> >
> >>by wx30. The ampmeter jumps up and overvolts cuttign off the alternator.
> >>Resest it and it does it again and again. I have a new alternator,
> >>only 3 years old. The battery is 3 years old also and has plenty of
> >>cranking power. Someone is trying to convince me the battery has a
> >>shorted cell.,
> >>
> >>
> >Before I end up replacing the battery and voltage regulator, does anyone
have any ideas?
> >
> >
> >>thanks joe
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: citabria triiong overvoltage relay |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Joe and Carole Tuminello <mouseysf@pacbell.net>
John,
One more thought ont he ov protector. When mine trips I have a high
reading on the ampmeter, sometimes all the way to 60. If it was nuisance
tripping I wouldnt be getting that would I? Was yours?
thanks, Joe
----- Original Message -----
From: "Joe and Carole Tuminello" <mouseysf@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: citabria triiong overvoltage relay
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Joe and Carole Tuminello
<mouseysf@pacbell.net>
>
> Dear John,
> I am new and I do not know who Bob is. Do I get a certified part back? ,
(I
> have a certified airplane not a homebuilt.
> I guess you have a citabria too? Mine is a 1979 gcbc.) Or can I get a
> replacement elsewhere?
> I would appreciate any details you can give me.
> Thanks for your response. I actually had a new battery delivered the other
> day and have not installed it yet..The battery I have cranks fine and I
cant
> believe it is the cause.
> Regards,
> Joe
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "John Karnes" <jpkarnes@charter.net>
> To: <aeroelectric-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: citabria triiong overvoltage relay
>
>
> > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "John Karnes"
> <jpkarnes@charter.net>
> >
> > The ampmeter jumps up and overvolts cuttign off the alternator.
> > Resest it and it does it again and again.
> >
> > Joe-
> > I am having the same problem. I wrote Bob and he said that the older OV
> > modules are causing "nuisance trips" and to send the OV module to him
for
> > replacement.
> >
> > John Karnes
> > Zenith 601 HDS
> > Bremerton, WA
> >
> >
>
>
Message 14
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|
| Subject: | Breaker or Fuse on Main Alt FLD |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jim Pack" <jpack@igs3.com>
I have had contradictory advise regarding the circuit protection on the Main
Alt Fld.
Should I use a breaker or can I use a Fuse? (I'd prefer to use a fuse) At
what rating?
I'm using B&C alternators (60 amp & 20 amp) with LR3 Voltage regulators on
both. Dual alt/dual battery configuration.
- Jim
Message 15
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Bob Haan <bhaan@easystreet.com>
Neil,
Fry's Electronics http://outpost.com/ has Test Probe Wires used to make
test leads for VOM meters etc. They had them packaged in 5 foot or 12 foot
lengths for about $3 or $6. They are 18 AWG in Black or Red. They are very
very flexible.
> >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Neil McLeod"
> <bedrock@theriver.com>
> >
> >Looking for suggestions on how to and what kind of wire to use to wire the
> >PTT's on the sticks of my RV-7. Any tricks to providing for the slack at
> >the bottom of the sticks to allow movement without interference or
> >fatiguing the wire?
> >
> >Thanks,
> >
> >Neil McLeod
Bob
RV6A almost
http://easystreet.com/~bhaan/
Message 16
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|
| Subject: | Re: citabria triiong overvoltage relay |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Stephen Johnson" <spjohnsn@ix.netcom.com>
When I had this problem on my Citabria, it was a bad alternator. Some of
the diodes in the bridge circuit were blown, and this caused major ripple in
the alternator output voltage. It happened twice with two alternators.
Steve Johnson
building RV-8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Joe and Carole Tuminello" <mouseysf@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: citabria triiong overvoltage relay
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Joe and Carole Tuminello
<mouseysf@pacbell.net>
>
> Matt,
> Thanks the old battery is fine. It reads the full voltage static, I think
> 12.8 volts. Somebody else having a similar problem says it is most likely
> the old over voltage relay causing nuisance trips. We shall see.
> Thank you
> Joe
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Matt Prather" <mprather@spro.net>
> To: <aeroelectric-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: citabria triiong overvoltage relay
>
>
> > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Matt Prather
<mprather@spro.net>
> >
> > Do you have an AC battery charger? Have you tried to charge the
> > battery? Do you have a voltmeter. With everything turned off, what
> > voltage do you see across the battery. If you have a shorted cell, I
> > believe the battery will show about 1.2V below what a normal battery
> > shows. Is it a flooded cell battery?
> >
> > I believe that the only time the OV module trips is when the voltage
> > across it is above the setpoint. A shorted cell shouldn't cause this
> > overvoltage condition. I believe you need to look elsewhere. It sounds
> > like either a bad regulator, a bad OV module, or possibly, low voltage
> > to the sense lead for the regulator (a resistive connection) Or maybe a
> > bad ground to the regulator. If the regulator can't see the full
> > voltage of
> > the system, it will attempt increase the output of the alternator. Once
> it
> > has increased the output of the alternator above the trip point for the
OV
> > module, it gets shut down.
> >
> > Not sure if that helps.
> >
> > Matt Prather
> > N34RD
> >
> > Joe and Carole Tuminello wrote:
> >
> > >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Joe and Carole Tuminello
> <mouseysf@pacbell.net>
> > >
> > >I have had the same problem in my citabria as reported on July 23,2001
> > >
> > >
> > >>by wx30. The ampmeter jumps up and overvolts cuttign off the
alternator.
> > >>Resest it and it does it again and again. I have a new alternator,
> > >>only 3 years old. The battery is 3 years old also and has plenty of
> > >>cranking power. Someone is trying to convince me the battery has a
> > >>shorted cell.,
> > >>
> > >>
> > >Before I end up replacing the battery and voltage regulator, does
anyone
> have any ideas?
> > >
> > >
> > >>thanks joe
Message 17
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| Subject: | citabria triiong overvoltage relay |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "David Swartzendruber" <dswartzendruber@earthlink.net>
Joe,
Since you are seeing the ammeter peg, it appears that you are actually
getting an over voltage condition rather than nuisance trips. This
could be a fault in the alternator, aircraft wiring, or regulator. The
most likely is the regulator. If you had a variable voltage power
supply, what I would suggest as a bench check of the regulator is to
provide power to the regulator with the power supply and connect a light
to the field, (a panel light or something). Below 14V, the light should
be on. It will have a small range where it goes from bright to off such
as 14.0 to 14.5V. Above that, the light will remain out. If the light
stays on all the way up to 16V and higher, the regulator is faulty and
causing your over voltage condition.
These are generalizations, but I can't give you any more than that
without more knowledge of the parts in your airplane.
David Swartzendruber
Wichita
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Joe and Carole Tuminello
> <mouseysf@pacbell.net>
>
> The alternator is on whnevere the engoine is runnig. Sometimes the
ameter
> spikes over to 60 and the oovervoltage relay trips, sometimes it just
rips
> without the needle spiking. Thats usualyy after a start when the
needle
> would be over around plus 30 and declining.
> I dont have a variable power supply. Hows the bench test work, if i
did
> have
> on
> thank you,
> Joe Tuminello
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Ground block question |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 08:39 AM 12/10/2002 -0700, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: mprather@spro.net
>
>Hi Bob,
>
>I would just add, as has been discussed before, that one of the
>nice things about using fast-on tabs and crimp connectors is that
>you don't absolutely have to be able to see what you are wiring
>at the same time you are making connections.
good point!
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Ground block question |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 10:42 AM 12/10/2002 -0500, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Ron Raby" <ronr@advanceddesign.com>
>
>This is a little off the subject but I also have a grounding question. I am
>working on A lancair ES. The batteries are installed in the tail end of the
>plane. Is it advisable to tie the battery grounds together at the rear of
>the plane and run one wire to the firewall ground stud?
>
>Ron Raby
Yes. You're talking about two batteries . . . is
this a dual alternator system too or just a dual
battery system?
Bob . . .
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Ground block question |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: DHPHKH@aol.com
Hello Bob,
<<I'd like to mount the groundblock on the subpanel of my RV9 so all the
instruments ground wires don't have to be spliced, and then run a large
connecting wire back to the main firewall ground bolt. Is this acceptable or
is it too many connections and a possible interference problem ?>>
>>This would probably work. It's no worse than certified ships of the past
that had no rational plan for grounding. However, the system works best when
used as prescribed by mounting on the firewall and extending individual
system grounds<<
May I ask a dumb educational question?
Sounds like this fellow proposes a #2 from battery negative to a brass
bolt through the firewall. One the forward side of the firewall the brass
bolt connects a ground strap to the engine case. On the cabin side it
connects another short length of #2, which runs to a "forest of fast-ons"
ground block at a convenient location in the panel area.
It would seem that the only difference between this system and one with
the fast-on block mounted directly to the firewall bolt would be a tiny
resistance added by the short length of #2 and it's terminals. Let's say the
#2 is two feet long, so we have 0.156 x 2, or 0.312 milliohm. Assuming some
care in fabrication, let's also figure 0.5 milliohm (taken from "When is a
Good Ground Not?") for one additional bolted connection. The total is less
than a single milliohm.
As a practical matter, how is the proposed system worse? Could you
suggest a scenario where it might create a problem for some system or
component?
Thanks,
Dan Horton
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Ground block question |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Ron Raby" <ronr@advanceddesign.com>
Bob
Duel battery, 60a main alternator and a 20a pad mounted b&c
Ron
N829R
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Ground block question
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
<bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
>
> At 10:42 AM 12/10/2002 -0500, you wrote:
> >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Ron Raby"
<ronr@advanceddesign.com>
> >
> >This is a little off the subject but I also have a grounding question. I
am
> >working on A lancair ES. The batteries are installed in the tail end of
the
> >plane. Is it advisable to tie the battery grounds together at the rear of
> >the plane and run one wire to the firewall ground stud?
> >
> >Ron Raby
>
> Yes. You're talking about two batteries . . . is
> this a dual alternator system too or just a dual
> battery system?
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Ground block question |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 01:44 PM 12/10/2002 -0500, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Ron Raby" <ronr@advanceddesign.com>
>
>Bob
>
>Duel battery, 60a main alternator and a 20a pad mounted b&c
Are you wiring like Figure 14 or Figure 13 with an aux battery?
Bob . . .
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Ground block question |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: N823ms@aol.com
Ron:
I will be also installing dual batteries. Mine will be on each side of
the pitch idler. I got 80 feet of 2awg welding cable @ .52 cents a foot. I
intend to run separate lines as this would keep things separated. I believe
we have talked before on other issues. I had asked Electric Bob about running
a ground wire out to the wing tip area for things out there. He recommended
running separate ground wires there in case of some going bad and affecting
other items of the same common ground. I am assuming this to be true with the
battery situation. I have asked Bob this very same question, but no response.
Ed Silvanic
Lancair ES
N823MS
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: Ground block question |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: N823ms@aol.com
Bob:
Remember me, still looking for my second pass on Ed's Lancair ES
-System planning. I have asked this very same question. I am doing the Z-14
too.
Ed Silvanic
Lancair ES
N823MS
Message 25
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|
| Subject: | UMA light bezels |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: BillRVSIX@aol.com
Dose anyone no if the UMA light bezels fit RC Allen attitude gyros and Navaid
auto pilot or van's vertical speed indicator. I checked the UMA web page and
it just said that they will fit most instruments and i didn't see a tech
e-mail link.
thanks
Bill Higgins
Pembroke Ma.
Message 26
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|
| Subject: | alternator leads |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: LRE2@aol.com
Bob,
I am using an LR3 regulator. I am looking at the alternatives for
suitable automotive alternator that will be compatible with the LR3. There
are very few that have only "B" and "f" terminals. There are a large number
that have a "B" terminal and a "regulator plug" with terminals labeled S, IG,
and L. Is one of these a field lead? Can the others be ignored? In short,
can such a regulator be used with the LR3? Thanks...LRE
Message 27
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|
| Subject: | Master disconnect for elec trim & Autopilot |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "William Slaughter" <willslau@alumni.rice.edu>
Bob,
I really like the idea of the master disconnect for all of the electric
items which move the control surfaces, and would like to implement it on my
RV-8, likely using one of the switches on my stick grip. I'll have pitch and
roll trim, and a wing leveler autopilot. Since the switch involved will
probably be a push-on/push-off type, an annuciator light indicating that the
systems were disabled might be nice. How would you suggest I go about this?
Thanks.
William Slaughter
PS Any news on the system architecture designs for the FADEC equipped
engines?
Message 28
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|
| Subject: | Re: UMA light bezels |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: CozyGirrrl@aol.com
Dear Bill,
I hope you have better luck with getting information from UMA than I did. I
wanted specific information not in the abbreviated drawings in the catalog. I
called and the girl would not let me get past her to someone who could give
me specific answers and finally accepted the drawing she promised to send...
you guessed it, same one I already had.
If anyone does have them, I wanted to know the minimum center to center
distances they could be mounted.
...Chrissi
Cozy Mk-IV 13B Turbo
www.CozyGirrrl.com
Chrissi@BlueMountainAvionics.com
Message 29
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| Subject: | UMA light bezels |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "David Swartzendruber" <dswartzendruber@earthlink.net>
Try asking for Chuck Holzner when you call. He's an engineer there. If
she puts you through without asking what you want, Chuck may be willing
to help out.
David Swartzendruber
Wichita
>
> Dear Bill,
> I hope you have better luck with getting information from UMA than I
did.
> I
> wanted specific information not in the abbreviated drawings in the
> catalog. I
> called and the girl would not let me get past her to someone who could
> give
> me specific answers and finally accepted the drawing she promised to
> send...
> you guessed it, same one I already had.
> If anyone does have them, I wanted to know the minimum center to
center
> distances they could be mounted.
> ...Chrissi
Message 30
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| Subject: | Re: UMA light bezels |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: CozyGirrrl@aol.com
Dear David, Thank you for your help.
...Chrissi
Cozy Mk-IV 13B Turbo
www.CozyGirrrl.com
Chrissi@BlueMountainAvionics.com
Message 31
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| Subject: | Re: UMA light bezels |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: John Schroeder <jschroeder@perigee.net>
Chrissi -
We're going for EFISA/One and have several of the NuLite Bezels for
sale. Let us know if you are interested.
John Schroeder
Lancair Super ES
CozyGirrrl@aol.com wrote:
>
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: CozyGirrrl@aol.com
>
> Dear Bill,
> I hope you have better luck with getting information from UMA than I did. I
> wanted specific information not in the abbreviated drawings in the catalog. I
> called and the girl would not let me get past her to someone who could give
> me specific answers and finally accepted the drawing she promised to send...
> you guessed it, same one I already had.
> If anyone does have them, I wanted to know the minimum center to center
> distances they could be mounted.
> ...Chrissi
>
> Cozy Mk-IV 13B Turbo
> www.CozyGirrrl.com
> Chrissi@BlueMountainAvionics.com
>
Message 32
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|
| Subject: | Re: UMA light bezels |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jim & Jeanette Oberst" <joberst@cox-internet.com>
I am using UMA bezels, and had a few small issues which I was able to solve.
My DG has a mounting screw hole slightly offset from the standard hole
pattern, but I was able to drill a small hole through the bezel to
accommodate it without having to drill into the lighting element. Lucky.
My RC Allen AI has a face with a smaller glass and larger surrounding
structure than typical, and the non-glass ring on the outside covered over
the bezel light, so little got through to the instrument face. In addition,
it had a small screw head that protruded above level and hit the light
strip. I solved this by mounting it with a few washers as spacers to the
UMA bezel, which both gave the screw head clearance and also let more light
from the bezel illuminate the instrument.
I think you're just going to have to try them on your instruments. I
suggest you buy one - the one with two knob cutouts - and see how it fits
all of your instruments.
Jim Oberst
----- Original Message -----
From: <BillRVSIX@aol.com>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: UMA light bezels
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: BillRVSIX@aol.com
>
> Dose anyone no if the UMA light bezels fit RC Allen attitude gyros and
Navaid
> auto pilot or van's vertical speed indicator. I checked the UMA web page
and
> it just said that they will fit most instruments and i didn't see a tech
> e-mail link.
> thanks
>
> Bill Higgins
> Pembroke Ma.
>
>
Message 33
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| Subject: | Re: UMA light bezels |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Paul McAllister" <paul.mcallister@qia.net>
Hi Bill,
I have had excellent service from Nulite. I am building a Europa and my
instruments are very close together. This caused an issue with one of the
Nulites. I contacted the manufacturer and explained the problem. They
offered to do a one off production run to solve my issue at no cost, all
they asked was for me to return my old Nulite. I pointed out to them that I
had already modified the unit but they told me, no worries return it anyway,
all we want is for you to be a satisfied customer. Take a look at their web
site www.nulite.com
Cheers, Paul
http://europa363.versadev.com
----- Original Message -----
From: <BillRVSIX@aol.com>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: UMA light bezels
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: BillRVSIX@aol.com
>
> Dose anyone no if the UMA light bezels fit RC Allen attitude gyros and
Navaid
> auto pilot or van's vertical speed indicator. I checked the UMA web page
and
> it just said that they will fit most instruments and i didn't see a tech
> e-mail link.
> thanks
>
> Bill Higgins
> Pembroke Ma.
>
>
Message 34
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| Subject: | Re: UMA light bezels |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
The url should be http://www.nulite.net/
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul McAllister" <paul.mcallister@qia.net>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: UMA light bezels
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Paul McAllister"
<paul.mcallister@qia.net>
>
> Hi Bill,
>
> I have had excellent service from Nulite. I am building a Europa and my
> instruments are very close together. This caused an issue with one of the
> Nulites. I contacted the manufacturer and explained the problem. They
> offered to do a one off production run to solve my issue at no cost, all
> they asked was for me to return my old Nulite. I pointed out to them that
I
> had already modified the unit but they told me, no worries return it
anyway,
> all we want is for you to be a satisfied customer. Take a look at their
web
> site www.nulite.com
>
> Cheers, Paul
>
> http://europa363.versadev.com
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <BillRVSIX@aol.com>
> To: <aeroelectric-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: UMA light bezels
>
>
> > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: BillRVSIX@aol.com
> >
> > Dose anyone no if the UMA light bezels fit RC Allen attitude gyros and
> Navaid
> > auto pilot or van's vertical speed indicator. I checked the UMA web page
> and
> > it just said that they will fit most instruments and i didn't see a tech
> > e-mail link.
> > thanks
> >
> > Bill Higgins
> > Pembroke Ma.
> >
> >
>
>
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