Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:53 AM - Re: AeroElectric-List Digest: 4 Msgs - 01/05/03 ()
2. 04:42 AM - Re: Re: AeroElectric-List Digest: 7 Msgs - 01/02/03 (Dennis O'Connor)
3. 04:43 AM - Re: FS: Bendex electric AI (Neil McLeod)
4. 05:21 AM - Re: Battery Charger (Dennis O'Connor)
5. 05:43 AM - Re: Monster battery for Walter M601 . . . (David Swartzendruber)
6. 05:56 AM - Re: Lightweight Starters (David Swartzendruber)
7. 06:54 AM - Re: Lightweight Starters (DHPHKH@aol.com)
8. 07:07 AM - Re: Lightweight Starters (David Swartzendruber)
9. 07:12 AM - Re: Battery Charger (MATTHEW PRATHER)
10. 08:43 AM - Re: Battery Charger (Dennis O'Connor)
11. 10:18 AM - Re: FW: Over-voltage protection (Jan de Jong)
12. 11:42 AM - Trim on e-buss? (Dan Checkoway)
13. 12:10 PM - Re: FW: Over-voltage protection (LarryRobertHelming)
14. 12:53 PM - Re: FW: Over-voltage protection (David Swartzendruber)
15. 01:55 PM - Re: Trim on e-buss? (Richard Dudley)
16. 02:25 PM - Radio Master Switch (N566u@aol.com)
17. 03:23 PM - Re: Radio Master Switch (Robert Dickson)
18. 03:40 PM - Re: Radio Master Switch (MATTHEW PRATHER)
19. 06:35 PM - Re: Radio Master Switch (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
20. 09:11 PM - Re: Trim on e-buss? (robert watson)
21. 09:46 PM - Re: Trim on e-buss? (Dan Checkoway)
22. 11:16 PM - Re: Radio Master Switch (Aucountry@aol.com)
Message 1
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| Subject: | RE: AeroElectric-List Digest: 4 Msgs - 01/05/03 |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: <max.johansson@nokia.com>
Mike,
the easiest way to do voltage doubling is to connect two similar cheap 12 volt
chargers in serial.
Another way is to open up the charger and have a look. If the rectifying circuit
is using a center tap transformer, you can easily rewire the circuit for double
voltage, at least if you add a bridge rectifier in case the original circuit
used single diodes. But look out for capacitors that can not take the new 32
volts output voltage and of course your fuse protection should be halved.
Any method using capacitive voltage doubling is not really feasible at these currents,
and using a step-up transformer 110 to 220 volt in front of the charger
is dangerous for many reasons.
Max, Helsinki, Finland
> Time: 05:18:12 PM PST US
> From: "Mike Harrington" <kmrc@bellsouth.net>
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: Battery Charger
>
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Mike Harrington"
> <kmrc@bellsouth.net>
>
> Anyone had experience with using a 12V / 10A car battery
> charger and building a
> voltage doubler so you could use it with a 28V battery?
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Mike
> '46 Swift>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: AeroElectric-List Digest: 7 Msgs - 01/02/03 |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dennis O'Connor" <doconnor@chartermi.net>
The 196 has more parallel receivers than the unit that started the
discussion... It should always lock up quickly no matter the weather as
long as it is near a window...
Denny
----- Original Message -----
From: <Jerry2DT@aol.com>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: AeroElectric-List Digest: 7 Msgs - 01/02/03
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Jerry2DT@aol.com
>
> Hey guys...
>
> I know zip about electronics, that's why I follow this list, trying to
learn
> something. Just read and reread Mr. Nuckolls' excellent book. I've been
> working on my panel, and couldn't wait for my backup GPS any longer, so
when
> the Garmin196 came out, I grabbed one off eBay... JA Aircenter. Excellent
to
> do business with JA , btw.
> Anyway, I have it in my car, while I make airplane sounds, and it never
fails
> to get a lock almost instantly, in cloud-and rain-covered western Oregon.
Do
> you think there would be ever a time when this unit would not perform,
even
> with the thickest clouds?
>
> Jerry Cochran
> RV6a 75/65
>
> In a message dated 1/2/03 11:58:59 PM,
aeroelectric-list-digest@matronics.com
> writes:
>
> <<
> Dave, Norm is correct that cloud attenuation is a minor player in GPS,
> however it is not a zero player, as he is wont to think, in a receiver
with
> minimal parallel processing going on, which was what started the thread...
> >>
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: FS: Bendex electric AI |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Neil McLeod" <neilmcleod@direcway.com>
I'm interested, can you send a photo, imensions etc?
Neil McLeod
----- Original Message -----
From: <richard@riley.net>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: FS: Bendex electric AI
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: richard@riley.net
>
> I have ended up with a spare electric AI. The bad news is that it's 110v
> 400hz 3 phase. The good news is that the inverters are available from
> http://freespace.virgin.net/andy.wright617/ for $160.
>
> The one I have is a Bendex#1978130-1, cageable with a full ball
> display. Removed as serviceable and kept as a serviceable spare with a
> yellow tag, sealed with desiccant and caged. I'm told it's mounted in an
> ATI-3 rack.
>
> I have $550 in it, I'll sell it for the same.
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Battery Charger |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dennis O'Connor" <doconnor@chartermi.net>
In my mind it would be easier and cheaper to just to get a second charger
and put the battery leads in series (just like stacking flashlight
batteries) so that you get 28 volts across the two outside leads... If
you first run the charger leads to an output buss, you can effectively wind
up with charging station with battery clamps for two 14 volt charge stations
and a 28 volt charge station - at minimal cost...
There are other issues with aircraft/RG/gelled/whatever batteries such as
constant current charge, etc.. But that can be another thread...
Denny
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Harrington" <kmrc@bellsouth.net>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Battery Charger
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Mike Harrington"
<kmrc@bellsouth.net>
>
> Anyone had experience with using a 12V / 10A car battery charger and
building a voltage doubler so you could use it with a 28V battery?
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Mike
> '46 Swift
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Monster battery for Walter M601 . . . |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "David Swartzendruber" <dswartzendruber@earthlink.net>
Lancair is using two Concorde RG24-15 batteries which weigh 28lb each in
their Walter powered Lancair IV. They are able to get good starts with
these batteries by initiating the start with the batteries in parallel
and then transitioning them to series part way through the start. This
provides a quicker, cooler start than is possible with the conventional
setup even if huge batteries are used in the conventional setup.
David Swartzendruber
Wichita
>
> >: Hi Bob,
> >
> >Building a Turbine Legend with Walter M601 engine. The M601 engine
has a
> >high current starting requirement -- a single 24v battery doesn't
have
> >enough capacity.
> >
> >I am planning to use four B&C 12 volt 25AHour batteries -- two 12v
> >batteries connected in series for the 24 volt requirement, with two
of
> >these in paralles. B&C indicates no problem with this setup, but I
> wanted
> >to get your opinion if you would be so kind to comment on the pros
and
> >cons. Thanks.
>
> That's been done and will function. This combo
> could produce a battery array on the order of
> 100 pounds and total capacity of 50 a.h.
>
> Have you considered perhaps two batteries like
>
http://www.panasonic.com/industrial/battery/oem/images/pdf/Panasonic_VRL
A_
> LC-X1265P.pdf
> for a total weight of 88 pounds, fewer parts
> to install and a capacity of 65 a.h?
>
> Bob . . .
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Lightweight Starters |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "David Swartzendruber" <dswartzendruber@earthlink.net>
I'm sure the Magnaflite data given below was acquired on a starter test
stand, not an engine. The data is only useful for comparing the two
starters, not for determining how fast it will crank your engine. When
it says RPM is actual engine RPM, it means they've already accounted for
the gear ratio between the starter and ring gear. The starter is
turning at the RPM that would be required to turn the engine at the RPM
listed.
David Swartzendruber
Kelly Aerospace
Wichita
>
> Have a data sheet faxed by Electrosystems, maker of the
Magnaflite
> starter. Here is their comparison of the old MZ-4222 vs the
Magnaflite
> MZ-6222, exactly as on the sheet:
> ____
>
> The following test results are based on 15 ft/lbs of torque
> MZ-4222 12V 145A 0.89 HP 310 RPM
> MZ-6222 12V 235A 1.65 HP 580 RPM
> RPM is actual engine RPM
>
> The Magnaflite starters weigh 7.8 lb compared to 17 lb for the
standard
> starter.
> ____
>
> Large current draw is obvious, and goes to what Bob wrote about
> condition of the current paths. The rest of the specs seem crazy. 15
> ft/lb
> torque? 580 RPM actual engine cranking speed? Some kind of lab
rating
> system maybe? I sent questions, but no response.
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Lightweight Starters |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: DHPHKH@aol.com
<<When it says RPM is actual engine RPM, it means they've already accounted
for
the gear ratio between the starter and ring gear. The starter is turning at
the RPM that would be required to turn the engine at the RPM listed.>>
Thanks Dave. Ok, listed amperage is for a lightly loaded, high-speed
condition on the starter bench (MZ-6222, 12V, 235A, 1.65 HP, 580 RPM, 15
ft/lbs torque
). Would amps would be higher when loaded to a more realistic level, ie
slower speed, higher torque? Hard to imagine spinning an engine at 580 RPM.
Dan
Message 8
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| Subject: | Lightweight Starters |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "David Swartzendruber" <dswartzendruber@earthlink.net>
Dan,
Yes, loading the starter more will result in increased amperage and
decreased RPM.
David Swartzendruber
Wichita
>
> Thanks Dave. Ok, listed amperage is for a lightly loaded, high-
> speed
> condition on the starter bench (MZ-6222, 12V, 235A, 1.65 HP, 580 RPM,
15
> ft/lbs torque
> ). Would amps would be higher when loaded to a more realistic level,
ie
> slower speed, higher torque? Hard to imagine spinning an engine at
580
> RPM.
>
>
> Dan
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Battery Charger |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "MATTHEW PRATHER" <mprather@spro.net>
This MIGHT work, but there is one thing that I would check before attempting
it. Take your handy multimeter and check for continuity between the negative
output of the charger, and the neutral or ground pin on the charger's wall
plug.
If they are connected, I suspect you may have trouble with this scheme. I
haven't tried it, however. You may be able to use an isolationg
transformer to
'float' one charger from the other.
Matt Prather
N34RD
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dennis O'Connor"
> <doconnor@chartermi.net>
>
> In my mind it would be easier and cheaper to just to get a second
> charger and put the battery leads in series (just like stacking
> flashlight batteries) so that you get 28 volts across the two outside
> leads... If you first run the charger leads to an output buss, you
> can effectively wind up with charging station with battery clamps for
> two 14 volt charge stations and a 28 volt charge station - at minimal
> cost...
> There are other issues with aircraft/RG/gelled/whatever batteries such
> as constant current charge, etc.. But that can be another thread...
>
> Denny
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Mike Harrington" <kmrc@bellsouth.net>
> To: <aeroelectric-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: Battery Charger
>
>
>> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Mike Harrington"
> <kmrc@bellsouth.net>
>>
>> Anyone had experience with using a 12V / 10A car battery charger and
> building a voltage doubler so you could use it with a 28V battery?
>>
>> Thanks in advance.
>>
>> Mike
>> '46 Swift
>>
>>
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Battery Charger |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dennis O'Connor" <doconnor@chartermi.net>
Ummm Matt... It didn't occur to me that any manufacturer would so brain dead
as to take an isolated transformer secondary and tie it back into the
primary...
Denny
----- Original Message -----
From: "MATTHEW PRATHER" <mprather@spro.net>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Battery Charger
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "MATTHEW PRATHER"
<mprather@spro.net>
>
> This MIGHT work, but there is one thing that I would check before
attempting
> it. Take your handy multimeter and check for continuity between the
negative
> output of the charger, and the neutral or ground pin on the charger's wall
> plug.
> If they are connected, I suspect you may have trouble with this scheme. I
> haven't tried it, however. You may be able to use an isolationg
> transformer to
> 'float' one charger from the other.
>
> Matt Prather
> N34RD
>
> > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dennis O'Connor"
> > <doconnor@chartermi.net>
> >
> > In my mind it would be easier and cheaper to just to get a second
> > charger and put the battery leads in series (just like stacking
> > flashlight batteries) so that you get 28 volts across the two outside
> > leads... If you first run the charger leads to an output buss, you
> > can effectively wind up with charging station with battery clamps for
> > two 14 volt charge stations and a 28 volt charge station - at minimal
> > cost...
> > There are other issues with aircraft/RG/gelled/whatever batteries such
> > as constant current charge, etc.. But that can be another thread...
> >
> > Denny
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Mike Harrington" <kmrc@bellsouth.net>
> > To: <aeroelectric-list@matronics.com>
> > Subject: AeroElectric-List: Battery Charger
> >
> >
> >> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Mike Harrington"
> > <kmrc@bellsouth.net>
> >>
> >> Anyone had experience with using a 12V / 10A car battery charger and
> > building a voltage doubler so you could use it with a 28V battery?
> >>
> >> Thanks in advance.
> >>
> >> Mike
> >> '46 Swift
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: FW: Over-voltage protection |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Jan de Jong <jan.de.jong@xs4all.nl>
Is there no opinion on this at all among participants? I would be interested
too. The proposal sounds perfectly reasonable to me.
Jan de Jong
Gary Casey wrote:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Gary Casey" <glcasey@adelphia.net>
>
> Pardon the repetition, but I didn't see my original message or any replies
> on the list - It may not have gotten there.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Gary Casey [mailto:glcasey@adelphia.net]
> To: Aeroelectric-List
> Subject: Over-voltage protection
>
> In reading all the submissions about over-voltage protection I have come up
> with a question. It is based on the assumption that the only failure that
> can cause an over-voltage condition is that of the voltage regulator,
> assuming that the regulator is external or otherwise not internally powered.
> The typical over-voltage protection circuit is in series with the regulator
> and disconnects the power feed to the field. I'm assuming that the
> protection device could be on either side of the regulator. Question: Why
> not just install a second regulator in series with the first? The second
> one could be adjusted to a somewhat higher voltage than the first one and
> could be designed to provide an output for a warning light if it came on
> line. Therefore, a (primary) regulator failure would result in a system
> voltage of, say, 15 volts instead of 14 and a warning indicator. Nothing
> would have to be done by the pilot and he could complete his flight without
> worry of running out of battery. This would seem like a more elegant
> solution than to just kill the alternator if the voltage regulator fails,
> which only replaces one emergency with another less urgent one.
>
> Gary Casey
>
Message 12
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
I've got electric elevator and aileron trim in my RV-7. Put 'em on the
e-buss or on the main buss?
I was thinking that since they're used so intermittently at most, I could
put 'em on the e-buss. It will be nice to be able to trim on an approach as
speed changes, for example, without having to muck around with flipping the
master back on, etc.
What's the general feeling about trim being powered by the e-buss?
Thanks in advance,
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D (fuselage)
http://www.rvproject.com
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: FW: Over-voltage protection |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming@sigecom.net>
Seems like a logical solution if the output current from the first in line
regulator is compatible with input to the second in line regulator . Why
would it not be? Seems like a solution. What about cost, weight, etc,
etc.?? Keep in mind: I am not any where near being an authority on
electronics. But I am somewhat of a logical thinker. Your solution seems
logical to me. Do Not Archive.
Where is Electric Bob on this?
Larry in Indiana
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jan de Jong" <jan.de.jong@xs4all.nl>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: FW: Over-voltage protection
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Jan de Jong
<jan.de.jong@xs4all.nl>
>
> Is there no opinion on this at all among participants? I would be
interested
> too. The proposal sounds perfectly reasonable to me.
> Jan de Jong
>
> Gary Casey wrote:
>
> > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Gary Casey"
<glcasey@adelphia.net>
> >
> > Pardon the repetition, but I didn't see my original message or any
replies
> > on the list - It may not have gotten there.
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Gary Casey [mailto:glcasey@adelphia.net]
> > To: Aeroelectric-List
> > Subject: Over-voltage protection
> >
> > In reading all the submissions about over-voltage protection I have come
up
> > with a question. It is based on the assumption that the only failure
that
> > can cause an over-voltage condition is that of the voltage regulator,
> > assuming that the regulator is external or otherwise not internally
powered.
> > The typical over-voltage protection circuit is in series with the
regulator
> > and disconnects the power feed to the field. I'm assuming that the
> > protection device could be on either side of the regulator. Question:
Why
> > not just install a second regulator in series with the first? The
second
> > one could be adjusted to a somewhat higher voltage than the first one
and
> > could be designed to provide an output for a warning light if it came on
> > line. Therefore, a (primary) regulator failure would result in a system
> > voltage of, say, 15 volts instead of 14 and a warning indicator.
Nothing
> > would have to be done by the pilot and he could complete his flight
without
> > worry of running out of battery. This would seem like a more elegant
> > solution than to just kill the alternator if the voltage regulator
fails,
> > which only replaces one emergency with another less urgent one.
> >
> > Gary Casey
> >
>
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | FW: Over-voltage protection |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "David Swartzendruber" <dswartzendruber@earthlink.net>
A failure of the regulator could be caused by a problem somewhere else
in the aircraft such as a partially shorted field winding, or
intermittently shorting field wire. This could fail both regulators in
the same manner and then leave you with an over-voltage condition and no
protection other than the pilot noticing it and turning off the
alternator. Bob's OV module would provide the necessary OV protection
in this situation.
There are other reasons why I would not choose the two regulators in
series approach, but I believe the one above is enough.
David Swartzendruber
Wichita
>
> In reading all the submissions about over-voltage protection I have
>come
>up
> with a question. It is based on the assumption that the only failure
>that
> can cause an over-voltage condition is that of the voltage regulator,
> assuming that the regulator is external or otherwise not internally
>powered.
> The typical over-voltage protection circuit is in series with the
>regulator
> and disconnects the power feed to the field. I'm assuming that the
> protection device could be on either side of the regulator. Question:
>Why
> not just install a second regulator in series with the first? The
>second
> one could be adjusted to a somewhat higher voltage than the first one
>and
> could be designed to provide an output for a warning light if it came
>on
> line. Therefore, a (primary) regulator failure would result in a
>system
> voltage of, say, 15 volts instead of 14 and a warning indicator.
> Nothing
> would have to be done by the pilot and he could complete his flight
> without
> worry of running out of battery. This would seem like a more elegant
> solution than to just kill the alternator if the voltage regulator
> fails,
> which only replaces one emergency with another less urgent one.
>
> Gary Casey
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Trim on e-buss? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Richard Dudley <rhdudley@att.net>
Dan,
I'd agree with your rationale - only occasional current drain on the
battery. Mine is manual.
Richard Dudley
-6A FWF
Dan Checkoway wrote:
>
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
> I've got electric elevator and aileron trim in my RV-7. Put 'em on the
> e-buss or on the main buss?
>
> I was thinking that since they're used so intermittently at most, I could
> put 'em on the e-buss. It will be nice to be able to trim on an approach as
> speed changes, for example, without having to muck around with flipping the
> master back on, etc.
>
> What's the general feeling about trim being powered by the e-buss?
>
> Thanks in advance,
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D (fuselage)
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | Radio Master Switch |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: N566u@aol.com
Hi Bob;
I just finished reading the following article written by Tom Rogers, the
Avionics Editor for AVweb. In it he insists that a Master switch is required
to protect our expensive avionics from the infamous "Spike." I know your
position on the matter and just thought you would be interested in seeing
what this expert has to say. It appears that Tom is also the owner of
Avionics West and says he will install an average avionics master
switch-breaker for $60.00 plus labor.
<A HREF="http://www.avweb.com/news/avionics/182015-1.html">http://www.avweb.com/news/avionics/182015-1.html
Ron Smith
N566U@aol.com
RV 8A working on panel
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Radio Master Switch |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert Dickson" <robert@thenews-journal.com>
I'm not Bob, but check out his already-written response at
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/avmaster.pdf
Robert Dickson
RV-6A electrical
----------
>From: N566u@aol.com
>To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
>Subject: AeroElectric-List: Radio Master Switch
>Date: Mon, Jan 6, 2003, 5:24 PM
>
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: N566u@aol.com
>
> Hi Bob;
>
> I just finished reading the following article written by Tom Rogers, the
> Avionics Editor for AVweb. In it he insists that a Master switch is required
> to protect our expensive avionics from the infamous "Spike." I know your
> position on the matter and just thought you would be interested in seeing
> what this expert has to say. It appears that Tom is also the owner of
> Avionics West and says he will install an average avionics master
> switch-breaker for $60.00 plus labor.
>
> <A
>
HREF="http://www.avweb.com/news/avionics/182015-1.html">http://www.avweb.com
/news/avi
> onics/182015-1.html
>
>
> Ron Smith
> N566U@aol.com
> RV 8A working on panel
>
>
>
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Radio Master Switch |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "MATTHEW PRATHER" <mprather@spro.net>
I believe that this very article was referenced in a post by David
Leonard back in Dec 2001. Its amazing how much ground this
group covers over time. Its cool that its in the archive, too.
do not archive
Matt Prather
N34RD
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: N566u@aol.com
>
> Hi Bob;
>
> I just finished reading the following article written by Tom Rogers, the
> Avionics Editor for AVweb. In it he insists that a Master switch is
> required to protect our expensive avionics from the infamous "Spike." I
> know your position on the matter and just thought you would be
> interested in seeing what this expert has to say. It appears that Tom
> is also the owner of Avionics West and says he will install an average
> avionics master switch-breaker for $60.00 plus labor.
>
> <A
> HREF="http://www.avweb.com/news/avionics/182015-1.html">http://www.avweb.com/news/avionics/182015-1.html
>
>
> Ron Smith
> N566U@aol.com
> RV 8A working on panel
>
>
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Radio Master Switch |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 04:40 PM 1/6/2003 -0700, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "MATTHEW PRATHER" <mprather@spro.net>
>
>I believe that this very article was referenced in a post by David
>Leonard back in Dec 2001. Its amazing how much ground this
>group covers over time. Its cool that its in the archive, too.
>
>do not archive
>
>Matt Prather
>N34RD
>
>
> > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: N566u@aol.com
> >
> > Hi Bob;
> >
> > I just finished reading the following article written by Tom Rogers, the
> > Avionics Editor for AVweb. In it he insists that a Master switch is
> > required to protect our expensive avionics from the infamous "Spike." I
> > know your position on the matter and just thought you would be
> > interested in seeing what this expert has to say. It appears that Tom
> > is also the owner of Avionics West and says he will install an average
> > avionics master switch-breaker for $60.00 plus labor.
> >
> > <A
> >
> HREF="http://www.avweb.com/news/avionics/182015-1.html">http://www.avweb.com/news/avionics/182015-1.html
> >
> >
> > Ron Smith
> > N566U@aol.com
> > RV 8A working on panel
Yup . . . I've seen it, and others like it for
years. I can't remember if I wrote to this particular
author or not. I used to attempt contact with everyone who
published articles touting the virtues of an avionics
master with respect to protecting radios from airplane
gremlins. My question has always been, "Please identify
for me the source, duration and magnitude of any
transient that might endanger the health and well-being
of any piece of electronics.
Out of dozens of queries over the years, only one ever
responded that I recall. His answer was something to the
effect, . . . "if Cessna saw fit to install such a device
in over 100,000 airplanes for the aforementioned reason,
there MUST have been a good reason for doing it . . . so
there!"
I was at Cessna when the avionics master was born, and
we thought we had a good reason . . . . over the years
the reasoning, experience and technology upon which
the decision was made are long since gone the way of
the buggy whip. The capable and qualified teacher
has to know and be able to explain the foundations of
their assertions lest the become simple propagandists.
Bob . . .
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Trim on e-buss? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "robert watson"<bob1629r@earthlink.net>
Dan put trims on main buss this way if you have a runaway trim you can
remove with master and still have e-buss
On Mon, 06 Jan 2003 14:46:58 -0500 Richard Dudley <rhdudley@att.net> wrote:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by:
> Richard Dudley
>
> Dan,
> I'd agree with your rationale - only occasional
> current drain on the
> battery. Mine is manual.
>
> Richard Dudley
> -6A FWF
>
> Dan Checkoway wrote:
> >
> > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dan
> Checkoway"
> >
> > I've got electric elevator and aileron trim
> in my RV-7. Put 'em on the
> > e-buss or on the main buss?
> >
> > I was thinking that since they're used so
> intermittently at most, I could
> > put 'em on the e-buss. It will be nice to be
> able to trim on an approach as
> > speed changes, for example, without having to
> muck around with flipping the
> > master back on, etc.
> >
> > What's the general feeling about trim being
> powered by the e-buss?
> >
> > Thanks in advance,
> > )_( Dan
> > RV-7 N714D (fuselage)
> > http://www.rvproject.com
> >
>
>
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Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Trim on e-buss? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
> Dan put trims on main buss this way if you have a runaway trim you can
> remove with master and still have e-buss
Hm. Given that I'll have a pullable circuit breaker for the trims (for that
very reason), do you still think the main buss is where they belong?
)_( Dan
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Radio Master Switch |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Aucountry@aol.com
In a message dated 01/06/03 06:36:36 PM, bob.nuckolls@cox.net writes:
> I was at Cessna when the avionics master was born, and
> we thought we had a good reason . . . . over the years
> the reasoning, experience and technology upon which
> the decision was made are long since gone the way of
> the buggy whip.
>
The problem, as I see it, is not whether or not an Avionics Master has any
virtues. The problem is, add-ons in airplanes are like entropy, growing
without bounds.
The local Avionics shop told me, "I love the Avionics Master. I get paid
$500-$600 to install something airplane owners don't need and it only takes=20a
few hours. When they leave, they think their plane's avionics system is
more modern. It doesn't matter if it's any good or not. We're both
happy."
Personally, I'm a minimalist. If it isn't absolutely needed for my intended
flight, it isn't in the airplane.
Gary
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