Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:48 AM - Re: OV Module problems (Werner Schneider)
2. 08:43 AM - Re: OV Module problems (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
3. 08:48 AM - Re: Runaway trim control (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
4. 09:11 AM - Re: runaway trim, webcrafting (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
5. 10:52 AM - Re: Soldering 14AWG wires w/o cold solder joint . . . (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
6. 01:31 PM - List server problem? (Tony Babb)
7. 01:43 PM - Re: Re: Soldering 14AWG wires w/o cold solder joint . . . (KITFOXZ@aol.com)
8. 02:07 PM - Re: List server problem? (Cliff Shaw)
9. 02:13 PM - Re: Re: Soldering 14AWG wires w/o cold solder joint . . . (Cliff Shaw)
10. 02:42 PM - Re: Soldering 14AWG wires w/o cold solder joint . . . (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
11. 03:56 PM - Re: Dimming LED's and incansadent bulbs (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
12. 06:21 PM - Re: Re: Dimming LED's and incansadent bulbs (Walter Casey)
13. 06:29 PM - Re: Re: Dimming LED's and incansadent bulbs (Sam Chambers)
14. 06:37 PM - Static Air (Walter Casey)
15. 07:05 PM - Re: Re: Dimming LED's and incansadent bulbs (RSwanson)
16. 07:23 PM - Re: Re: Dimming LED's and incansadent bulbs (William Slaughter)
17. 09:24 PM - Re: Static Air (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: OV Module problems |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Werner Schneider" <WernerSchneider@compuserve.com>
> Further, what I suspect is that your LR3 is an older
> configuration which is sensitive to low energy transients
> present in a few airplanes. OV protection circuitry
> in B&C and AEC products was modified a bit more than
> a year ago to tolerate this rare situation.
Bob, is there a way to tell if I have the modified one e.g. serial number??
And if not, is it wise to let the item upgrade even if I'm not flying before
about March?
Kind regards
Werner
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: OV Module problems |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 12:46 PM 1/12/2003 +0100, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Werner Schneider"
><WernerSchneider@compuserve.com>
>
> > Further, what I suspect is that your LR3 is an older
> > configuration which is sensitive to low energy transients
> > present in a few airplanes. OV protection circuitry
> > in B&C and AEC products was modified a bit more than
> > a year ago to tolerate this rare situation.
>
>Bob, is there a way to tell if I have the modified one e.g. serial number??
>And if not, is it wise to let the item upgrade even if I'm not flying before
>about March?
>
>Kind regards
The latest version is an LR3C . . . if you've been flying
this one for several years, it's an older version.
Bob . . .
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Runaway trim control |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 12:56 PM 1/11/2003 -0600, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Bob Darrah" <RDarrah@austin.rr.com>
>
>
>I can't prevent runaway trim, but my system allows me to control it (at
>least on the bench). I put in a three position switch, up-on
>(normal). Center-off, and momentary down is reverse. When the trim runs
>away, hit and hold the reverse until it gets back in the proper area, then off.
>
>Works great on the bench!
The thing that is going to CAUSE your runaway is a malfunction
in the switch. A runaway-proof system depends on operation of two
switches to power and/or command the system. Likelihood of
coincident failures in two switch is insignificantly low.
Bob. . .
Message 4
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| Subject: | RE: runaway trim, webcrafting |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 11:06 AM 1/11/2003 -0500, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Eric M. Jones" <emjones@charter.net>
>
>I mentioned before that I have a revision to the MAC8 servo where a simple
>voltage determines the position of the trim.
>This is a true "servo" system. The advantage is that the position of the
>input control determines the trim position.
>
>Maybe it is not the perfect "no-runaway-trim", or maybe it is. But I
>figure it is far safer than the standard system. It employs a
>potentiometer, which can be environmentally sealed, or any other method of
>setting a voltage (like a microprocessor or D-A converter.
>
>Contact me off-line and I will email you data. even if you don't want to
>do it, I will detail some areas of the MAC8 that can be improved.
ADDING parts to a system never increases reliability . . .
only some degree of convenience. Driving a trim motor
in a position feed-back servo loop adds more ways
for something to croak or come unhooked causing the
motor to run in undesirable ways.
Adding a second switch for a TRIM ENABLE function does
INCREASE the probability of switch failure in the trim
system by double . . . you got twice as many switches.
It reduces the probability of trim runaway because the
likelihood of simultaneous failure of two switches is
extremely remote.
>Bob, Did you ever test the stuff I sent???
Yes, didn't have any way to load the big relay until I
bought one of the SB-5 battery load testers shown on
my website. If you're planning to hammer on high current
switching designs, you probably ought to have one of
these things too. I'm modifying mine to make the
stock 0AWG lead wires removable so I can use it as
either a portable battery tester or a variable high
current load bank on the bench.
>Eric M. Jones, struggling to get a website up.
What's your biggest hurdle? If you need a short cut
to getting content up where it can be accessed,
duplicate my site and edit to fit. You can download
the whole site to a CD Rom which is still posted
at
http://216.55.140.222/CD/AEC7_0.zip
This is essentially what I did about 5 years ago.
It's a whole lot easier to edit a working product
to fit your needs than to create one from scratch.
What are you using for an .html editor? Do you
have some form of file transfer utility compatible
with your server up and running?
There are a number of very good programs out there.
My personal favorite .html crafting software is
Coffee Cup . . . See
http://www.wizardzone.com/webshop/coffeecup.htm
This same site offers WS FTP Pro file transfer
software but if your server is capable of working
with it, one of the encrypted transfer tools might
be better. I use WinSCP.
The biggest problem I've had with trying to use
things like Front Page is that the .html code
they generate is LOADED with commands and effects
not immediately obvious as to their function. You'll
note from my code there are NO commands that do not
produce an immediate and observable effect on the
appearance of the page when it pops up a browser.
It may not have all the bells and whistles that
.html and modern browsers are capable of producing
but it offers a way to get up quickly and with
a reasonably understandable tool. Hammering
out a new website with the bare-minimums tools
and programming philosophy is much like learning
to program in BASIC . . . it's almost plain-language
intuitive.
Bob . . .
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Soldering 14AWG wires w/o cold solder joint . . |
.
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
"The ten commandments of electrical soldering."
First, forget about using a flame for anything but the largest of wires (4 or
2 gauge). I feel that it takes a lot of experience to be able to solder with
a flame on anything smaller than a 4 gauge wire. In fact, it is better to
use a big soldering iron on big wires rather than a flame at all because you
have better control of the heat. I have a 300 watt Weller iron I call
"Bertha" for battery cable terminals etc.
Generally true.
Second, forget about a soldering gun. The secret to electrical soldering is
to be able to control the heat at the joint. A soldering gun is typically
too much heat for the work that you are trying to do (solder wires of 22 to
say, 12 gauge). A soldering gun is often 150 to 250 watts and maybe higher.
This is too much heat except in the hands of an expert for this type of
soldering.
Not true. Soldering guns while rated for 100-250 watts, put their
energy into the WHOLE tip which if straightened out might be 2 to
3 inches long. Soldering guns are probably the lowest efficiency
heat producing tools for soldering that there is. None the less,
they do have the convenience of fast heat up, reasonably fast
cool down and tend to be less hazardous than an always-hot device
plugged into the wall.
As a mater of fact, I gave my 13 year old nephew his first lessons
in soldering yesterday afternoon. We spent sometime on the bench
stripping wire and sticking things together . . . with a soldering
gun.
Third, a 25 to 35 watt iron is plenty of heat for this range of work. I
would stay at 25 watts up to about a 16 gauge wire splice. It will take a
little more heat for larger wires.
"Watts" are not tightly connected to "heat". I've got some 50W
irons that are so efficient in transferring energy from source
to joint that they out-perform a big soldering gun by a wide
margin. The low-cost soldering iron we offer from the website
is a 25W tool with a reasonably modern design that should
suffice for anything except putting fat terminals on fat
wires . . . See:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Catalog/tools/tools.html#s101_1
Fourth, the second secret to soldering is cleanliness. Get everything clean
and shiny bright. A common pencil eraser or a miniature stiff fiberglass
brush can be used to clean wires. Fine sandpaper will work for this too and
then dip them in liquid electrical soldering flux or lemon juice to prep them
for "tinning." More about "tinning" in a minute. All oxidation must be
removed from any "to be soldered" part.
Not necessary at all . . . unless your parts to be joined have
laid around getting all rusty for years, every material involved
in the fabrication of a new joint will be fine as-received.
A freshly stripped wire should go into the solder cup of a
reasonably stored d-sub connector with no fuss. The flux that
comes with modern solders is quite sufficient to overcome all
but the worst cases of corrosion.
Fifth, about that "tinning," soldering is easier to perform if the parts are
"tinned" separately first before they are joined with a solder "joint." A
clean, fluxed wire is heated by the iron and solder is added to melt and flow
onto the wire in just the amount to just coat the wire.
Doesn't hurt but seldom necessary . . .
Sixth, more about "tinning," the soldering iron tip needs to transfer it's
heat to the materials to be soldered. It must be clean and tinned with
solder to do this. Wipe the hot tip on a very damp sponge to clean the slag
off the tip and melt solder on it to "tin" the tip. Once the solder on the
iron tip is melted, coating the tip, it is tinned. But, the tin and lead
that the solder is made of begin to separate in this molten state, the flux
in the solder evaporates and the tip begins to build an ash on itself. This
is bad! You must keep the tip clean and tinned at all times. Heat will not
transfer through ash on a "dirty" iron tip. This means before every single
joint is soldered or every wire tinning operation is done. Keep that tip
clean and tinned, and you will be on your way to being a master solderer.
A damp CELLULOSE sponge is a handy aid to wiping the crud
from a soldering iron tip. Many off-the-shelf soldering iron
holders have a pan with a cut to match sponge that one wets
with water for this purpose. Electronics supply houses like
to sell you replacement sponges for $1 each . . . I buy
O-cel-o sponges from the grocery store and cut them to fit
my application for real cheap.
The solder alloys don't separate but they do pick up other
materials that form new alloys with very high melting points
and become chunks of crud that collect on the tip of the iron.
Modern soldering iron tips are coated with elemental iron
plating . . . iron alloys with solder but at a very low rate
compared to copper. The constant melting of solder on an iron
plated tip doesn't dissolve away the tip like a pure copper
one . . . plumbers and sheet metal workers were always having
to reshape the tip of their blow-torch heated "soldering
coppers" because the tool was literally becoming part of
the finished work as molecules of copper were swept off
the surface and into the molten solder.
Seventh, make the joint quickly. The name of the game is to melt the solder
and keep it melted for only a few seconds while it flows into the joint and
then get the heat away from it. When the solder is kept at the molten state
it begins to separate into tin and lead and this is bad! The joint will be
dull looking (lead is dull). It needs to look shiny and bright to indicate
that it was not over heated or cooked into a highly resistive or "cold"
solder joint. Lead is a poor electrical conductor by itself. Don't allow
the tin and lead to separate by keeping the heat on it too long.
If one uses the right kind of solder (63% tin, 37% lead) it
is practically impossible to achieve a "cold" solder joint.
See Chapter 9 of the Connection for discussion on how solder
works and particularly with respect to "eutectic" alloys.
The nephew and I assembled a "flashlight" by soldering
two AA cells, a switch and a light bulb together. Except
for the switch, NONE of the parts were intended to be soldered.
In the case of the cells and lamp, we did brighten up the areas
to be soldered with a small file and then "tinned" a location
where wires were to be attached. After tinning the wires
too, we were able to tack the wires to the components with
a one-second applications of heat from the soldering gun and
leave the finished part so cool that it could be immediately
picked up with the fingers.
In cases like this, get-on-get-off-quickly has some merit
but when putting two wires together or applying a terminal
to a wire, speed is not the essence of a good joint . . .
flow of the solder is.
Eighth, more about that tinned soldering iron tip. The freshly cleaned and
tinned soldering iron tip will transfer it's heat to the wire quickly when
touched to the wire because the fresh molten solder on the tip will engulf
the end of the wire and heat it quickly due to the larger contact area of the
molten solder on the tip. This is good! You want the wire to heat up
quickly so that you can flow a little more solder to the "joint" and get the
heat away before it turns into a bad joint due to tin/lead separation.
True . . . touching a dry iron to a bare wire conducts heat to
the joint very slowly. I'll touch the working surface of the
iron with the end of the solder to "wet" it . . . place that
surface against the joint and the feed solder into the
point where the iron and wire come together.
When working with small parts on an etched circuit board
one can take advantage of the low heat transfer characteristics
of a dry iron. I wipe the tip, place the tip so that it touches
both the wire and the trace on the board and then feed solder
into the space between tip, wire, trace. The act of melting
some solder into this void triggers the rapid heat rise in
all parts to be soldered so that you can effect the joining
quickly and get of with minimal energy conducted into places
that don't need it.
Ninth, The right heat is very important. An iron's heat is fairly constant
once it comes up to temperature. You can vary the heat delivered to the work
a little bit by choosing a tip that is slightly larger or smaller or by using
a wire wound potentiometer to control the iron's input voltage. Radio shack
has one that is rated for an iron up to 150 watts, Cat. No. 64-2054.
One can make perfectly satisfactory joints with a WIDE range
of energies delivered from a soldering iron. Certainly if
the iron has electronic controls to thermostatically maintain
the tip temperature, it's more convenient to use and less
likely to inflict collateral damage to etched circuit
boards and wiring insulation . . .
I have some $25 dollar butane powered soldering tools and some
$500 electronically controlled soldering tools that only
put out 50W at the tip. BOTH tools can be used to solder
wires that run from 24AWG to 2AWG jobs . . . one should
be careful when citing absolutes with respect to "heat"
and "wattage" . . .
By and large, when you first touch solder to the tip to wet it,
you'll get a good first indication as to the iron's ability to
warm things up. If the solder melts quickly and the flux puffs off
violently, the iron is very hot and one should be ready to
move quickly to put heat into the joint, flow the solder
and get off before the energy flows out too far beyond the
work site.
There is nothing like a little experimentation and practice
to hone your skills. Make some solder joints between two
wires. Buy a couple of 25-pin d-subs from Radio Shack and
attache some practice wires to them. Tack solder
Tenth, Clean all of the flux off the finished joint with denatured alcohol.
Get your magnifying glass out and admire your clean shiny new solder joint!
Electronic fluxes need not be cleaned from ordinary
joints where wires are joined or terminals applied. Flux
left behind on an etched circuit board MIGHT be a problem
later due to moisture effects . . . I wash down a finished
etched circuit board with lacquer-thinner-in-a-can
sold by WalMart for about 90 cents. A spray wash
followed by a low-heat dry-off from the heat gun
gets the board ready to accept polyurethane varnish
for moisture and dust protection. Cleaning of joints
on anything but ECB's is not necessary.
The nephew took the soldering gun home along with a spool
of 63/37 Resin 44 solder and a bunch of practice materials.
Next time he comes back, we'll fiddle with some etched
circuit boards and use the $500 solder station a bit.
It is my intention to hire him this summer to assemble
etched circuit boards with both thru-hole wired parts
and surface mount parts. It takes more understanding
of how the stuff works than training. I expect to have
him up to speed in perhaps 2-3 hours total training
at my bench and a few hours practice on his own at home.
"Cold" solder joints are the least of my concerns for
his education. If one is getting cold joints, they're
using the wrong solder.
I saw a roll of solder on sale at Harbor
Freight this weekend. Picked it up and it said 95%
lead, 5% tin, no flux . . . UGH! . . . misery on a spool.
I don't think I could solder a downspout with that
stuff . . . showed it to the nephew and advised that
he avoid this kind of solder for ANY task.
For those who have not seen them, I'll suggest a
couple of articles on the same subject posted at
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/dsubs/d_solder.html
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/rules/review.html
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/multiplewires/multiplewires.html
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/big_term.pdf
Bob . . .
Message 6
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| Subject: | List server problem? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Tony Babb" <tonybabb@alejandra.net>
Hi guys,
Is it just me or is the list server having problems? I'm using Outlook
Express/ Windows 2000. . Last night several times when I downloaded messages
Outlook Express failed (trying to access a certain memory location) on
opening some messages and crashed. When I restarted the messages were marked
as suspect by Outlook Express so I deleted them and the problem went away.
Today I'm receiving every message twice.
No big deal I was just wondering...
Thanks,
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Soldering 14AWG wires w/o cold solder joint |
. . .
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: KITFOXZ@aol.com
In a message dated 1/12/2003 1:53:22 PM Eastern Standard Time,
bob.nuckolls@cox.net writes:
>
> Not true. Soldering guns while rated for 100-250 watts, put their
> energy into the WHOLE tip which if straightened out might be 2 to
> 3 inches long. Soldering guns are probably the lowest efficiency
> heat producing tools for soldering that there is. None the less,
> they do have the convenience of fast heat up, reasonably fast
> cool down and tend to be less hazardous than an always-hot device
> plugged into the wall....
>
>
Hello Bob,
As usual, you are very thorough. My little "Ten Commandments For Electrical
Soldering" post was written with some "absolutes" that were designed to give
a complete novice the best chance to succeed. I have seen too many people
get discouraged when attempting to solder two wires together because they got
out a big dirty heat producing monster and tried to dive bomb some molten
solder on a dirty pair of wires.
I am not saying that I have the only formula to joint two wires together. I
am simply stating that if these rules are followed, the novice has to end up
with a longer wire. ; )
Seriously, the crucial point is that just enough heat needs to be transferred
to the future solder joint in order to promote molten solder to begin flowing
into that joint and then the heat needs to be removed. The novice will have
more trouble soldering with too much heat at his command than any other
problem other than contaminates of oil, corrosion or general dirt.
A cheap 25 to 35 watt iron clad tipped soldering pencil is still an ideal
choice in my opinion for a beginner to make a few successful solder joints.
A gun is always on the way up to a temperature that is too hot or on it's way
down to a temperature that is too cold and as a result is the most difficult
to keep tinned properly. I too have several soldering guns but do not use
them unless I am in such a big hurry that I cannot wait the 15 minutes for an
iron to heat up and stabilize at a temperature that is ideal for the task at
hand.
I too have used the best equipment available in my soldering experience and I
once soldered a lamp cord together with a fire place poker. The original
post here was to outline how a novice could learn to solder two wires
together with success. There are many ways to get good results when
soldering with a variety of tools and conditions. I posted a step by step
procedure here that if followed to the letter was intended to almost
guarantee success.
John
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: List server problem? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Cliff Shaw" <flyinggpa@attbi.com>
Well I only got one from you . I will send this only once.
Some services have been know to double send, Phil was complaining about that
last spring.
Cliff Shaw
1041 Euclid ave.
Edmonds WA 98020
(425) 776-5555
N229WC "Wile E Coyote"
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tony Babb" <tonybabb@alejandra.net>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: List server problem?
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Tony Babb"
<tonybabb@alejandra.net>
>
> Hi guys,
>
> Is it just me or is the list server having problems? I'm using Outlook
> Express/ Windows 2000. . Last night several times when I downloaded
messages
> Outlook Express failed (trying to access a certain memory location) on
> opening some messages and crashed. When I restarted the messages were
marked
> as suspect by Outlook Express so I deleted them and the problem went away.
> Today I'm receiving every message twice.
>
> No big deal I was just wondering...
>
> Thanks,
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Soldering 14AWG wires w/o cold solder joint |
. . .
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Cliff Shaw" <flyinggpa@attbi.com>
Bob is very correct , as usual. BUT John did a better job in getting a
beginner on the right track to make a good soldered connection.
Remember, "There is always more that one good way to do a job good." IMHO
(from my English friends)
Cliff Shaw
1041 Euclid ave.
Edmonds WA 98020
(425) 776-5555
N229WC "Wile E Coyote"
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Soldering 14AWG wires w/o cold solder joint . . |
.
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 04:42 PM 1/12/2003 -0500, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: KITFOXZ@aol.com
>
>In a message dated 1/12/2003 1:53:22 PM Eastern Standard Time,
>bob.nuckolls@cox.net writes:
>
> >
> > Not true. Soldering guns while rated for 100-250 watts, put their
> > energy into the WHOLE tip which if straightened out might be 2 to
> > 3 inches long. Soldering guns are probably the lowest efficiency
> > heat producing tools for soldering that there is. None the less,
> > they do have the convenience of fast heat up, reasonably fast
> > cool down and tend to be less hazardous than an always-hot device
> > plugged into the wall....
> >
> >
>
>Hello Bob,
>
>As usual, you are very thorough. My little "Ten Commandments For Electrical
>Soldering" post was written with some "absolutes" that were designed to give
>a complete novice the best chance to succeed. I have seen too many people
>get discouraged when attempting to solder two wires together because they got
>out a big dirty heat producing monster and tried to dive bomb some molten
>solder on a dirty pair of wires.
<snip>
>I too have used the best equipment available in my soldering experience and I
>once soldered a lamp cord together with a fire place poker. The original
>post here was to outline how a novice could learn to solder two wires
>together with success. There are many ways to get good results when
>soldering with a variety of tools and conditions. I posted a step by step
>procedure here that if followed to the letter was intended to almost
>guarantee success.
I understand and agree. But consider that when someone is having problems
with any process, it's daunting to the neophyte when presented with
a long list of do and don'ts, especially when the majority
of them have nothing to do with their problem. It's the Occam's Razor
thing ("Entities should not be multiplied unnecessarily.")
I could have sat the nephew down in front of the blackboard and
delivered a two-hour lecture on metallurgy sprinkled with some
Mil-STD-2000 and Raytheon Soldering School dogma for good measure.
He would have retained nothing of it worth remembering. Further, it would
have not helped him one bit at the work bench where he was making
sloppy but serviceable joints in 20 minutes (in spite of failure
to observe most of the popularly published do and don'ts).
The popular systematic approach to solving problems
is like someone standing outside watching their house burn.
A fireman walks up and hands him a 1,000 page book on city fire
codes, "Here study up on this and maybe you can keep it
from happening again."
I think we can do best as teachers to burrow down to the root
cause of a specific difficult and try to impart understanding
that gets them around the problem. As horizons expand
and new problems arise, go after those issues individually.
The skills will be quickly acquired, lessons will be permanently
retained,
Bob . . .
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Dimming LED's and incansadent bulbs |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 10:36 AM 1/11/2003 -0800, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "royt.or" <royt.or@netzero.net>
>
>For a circuit which allows using LED's and standard incandesent bulbs on the
>same B&C dimmer see Randall Henderson's web page at
>http://www.edt.com/homewing/rhproject/cabinlts.html. For LED's, Randall uses
>a 4.7V Zener diode to offset the 4V minimum output voltage of the dimmer,
>allowing the LED's to be completely dimmed when the incandesant bulbs are
>getting the "keep warm" voltage.
>
>Regards,
>
>Roy
Randall did a nice job integrating LEDs into his
cockpit lighting scheme . . . I'm impressed.
Bob . . .
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Dimming LED's and incansadent bulbs |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Walter Casey <mikec@caseyspm.com>
Bob,
The link listed below is broken.
Walter Casey
On Sunday, January 12, 2003, at 04:54 PM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III
wrote:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
> <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
>
> At 10:36 AM 1/11/2003 -0800, you wrote:
>> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "royt.or"
>> <royt.or@netzero.net>
>>
>> For a circuit which allows using LED's and standard incandesent bulbs
>> on the
>> same B&C dimmer see Randall Henderson's web page at
>> http://www.edt.com/homewing/rhproject/cabinlts.html. For LED's,
>> Randall uses
>> a 4.7V Zener diode to offset the 4V minimum output voltage of the
>> dimmer,
>> allowing the LED's to be completely dimmed when the incandesant bulbs
>> are
>> getting the "keep warm" voltage.
>>
>> Regards,
>>
>> Roy
>
> Randall did a nice job integrating LEDs into his
> cockpit lighting scheme . . . I'm impressed.
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
> _-
> ======================================================================
> _-
> ======================================================================
> _-
> ======================================================================
> _-
> ======================================================================
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Dimming LED's and incansadent bulbs |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Sam Chambers" <schamber@glasgow-ky.com>
I just tried it and it worked fine. It IS a nice job!!
Sam Chambers
Glasgow, KY
Long-EZ N775AM
----- Original Message -----
From: "Walter Casey" <mikec@caseyspm.com>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: Dimming LED's and incansadent bulbs
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Walter Casey <mikec@caseyspm.com>
>
> Bob,
> The link listed below is broken.
> Walter Casey
> On Sunday, January 12, 2003, at 04:54 PM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III
> wrote:
>
> > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
> > <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
> >
> > At 10:36 AM 1/11/2003 -0800, you wrote:
> >> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "royt.or"
> >> <royt.or@netzero.net>
> >>
> >> For a circuit which allows using LED's and standard incandesent bulbs
> >> on the
> >> same B&C dimmer see Randall Henderson's web page at
> >> http://www.edt.com/homewing/rhproject/cabinlts.html. For LED's,
> >> Randall uses
> >> a 4.7V Zener diode to offset the 4V minimum output voltage of the
> >> dimmer,
> >> allowing the LED's to be completely dimmed when the incandesant bulbs
> >> are
> >> getting the "keep warm" voltage.
> >>
> >> Regards,
> >>
> >> Roy
> >
> > Randall did a nice job integrating LEDs into his
> > cockpit lighting scheme . . . I'm impressed.
> >
> > Bob . . .
> >
> >
> > _-
> > ======================================================================
> > _-
> > ======================================================================
> > _-
> > ======================================================================
> > _-
> > ======================================================================
> >
> >
>
>
Message 14
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Walter Casey <mikec@caseyspm.com>
The Cessna Cardinal has a small valve in the cockpit which allows the
pilot to chose the aircraft interior as an alternate static air source.
Question, does anyone know where I can purchase such a neat little
valve.
Best wishes,
Walter Casey
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Dimming LED's and incansadent bulbs |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: RSwanson <rswan19@comcast.net>
Worked for me, too.
R
----- Original Message -----
From: "Sam Chambers" <schamber@glasgow-ky.com>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: Dimming LED's and incansadent bulbs
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Sam Chambers"
<schamber@glasgow-ky.com>
>
> I just tried it and it worked fine. It IS a nice job!!
>
> Sam Chambers
> Glasgow, KY
> Long-EZ N775AM
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Walter Casey" <mikec@caseyspm.com>
> To: <aeroelectric-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: Dimming LED's and incansadent bulbs
>
>
> > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Walter Casey
<mikec@caseyspm.com>
> >
> > Bob,
> > The link listed below is broken.
> > Walter Casey
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Dimming LED's and incansadent bulbs |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "William Slaughter" <willslau@alumni.rice.edu>
Works fine for me as well.
William Slaughter
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Walter
Casey
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: Dimming LED's and incansadent bulbs
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Walter Casey <mikec@caseyspm.com>
Bob,
The link listed below is broken.
Walter Casey
On Sunday, January 12, 2003, at 04:54 PM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III
wrote:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
> <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
>
> At 10:36 AM 1/11/2003 -0800, you wrote:
>> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "royt.or"
>> <royt.or@netzero.net>
>>
>> For a circuit which allows using LED's and standard incandesent bulbs
>> on the
>> same B&C dimmer see Randall Henderson's web page at
>> http://www.edt.com/homewing/rhproject/cabinlts.html. For LED's,
>> Randall uses
>> a 4.7V Zener diode to offset the 4V minimum output voltage of the
>> dimmer,
>> allowing the LED's to be completely dimmed when the incandesant bulbs
>> are
>> getting the "keep warm" voltage.
>>
>> Regards,
>>
>> Roy
>
> Randall did a nice job integrating LEDs into his
> cockpit lighting scheme . . . I'm impressed.
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
> _-
> ======================================================================
> _-
> ======================================================================
> _-
> ======================================================================
> _-
> ======================================================================
>
>
Message 17
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 07:37 PM 1/12/2003 -0700, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Walter Casey <mikec@caseyspm.com>
>
>The Cessna Cardinal has a small valve in the cockpit which allows the
>pilot to chose the aircraft interior as an alternate static air source.
>
>Question, does anyone know where I can purchase such a neat little
>valve.
>
>Best wishes,
>Walter Casey
Have you checked out the little ball valves available
now at most hardware stores? One for 1/4" or even perhaps
1/8" pipe would allow you to vent the static line to cabin
with a pretty small device.
Bob . . .
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