Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:53 AM - Reliability of Electric Gyros? (Dan O'Brien)
2. 06:21 AM - Re: Static Air (Eric M. Jones)
3. 06:21 AM - Re: Re: Soldering 14AWG wires w/o cold solder joint . . . (David Carter)
4. 06:40 AM - LR3C-14 low voltage light question (Mark Doble)
5. 06:41 AM - Re: Reliability of Electric Gyros? (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
6. 07:09 AM - Re: Reliability of Electric Gyros? (Stephen Johnson)
7. 07:38 AM - Re: Re: Static Air (Walter Casey)
8. 08:29 AM - Re: Reliability of Electric Gyros? (Greg Young)
9. 09:12 AM - Re: Re: Static Air (Miller Robert)
10. 10:33 AM - Re: LR3C-14 low voltage light question (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
11. 10:39 AM - Mac trim (Jim Lane)
12. 10:55 AM - Re: Mac trim (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
13. 01:30 PM - GPU contactor (Fergus Kyle)
14. 01:38 PM - Re: RCA Artificial Horizon Disappointment (Walter Casey)
15. 01:46 PM - Re: GPU contactor (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
16. 02:13 PM - How To, engine sensors and howto mount (Werner Schneider)
17. 02:20 PM - Re: Dynon Website Offline? (Shaun Simpkins)
18. 02:24 PM - Dynon Website Fine (Ross Mickey)
19. 03:50 PM - Re: Dynon Website Fine (Billie Lamb)
20. 05:58 PM - Re: RCA Artificial Horizon Disappointment (Robert McCallum)
21. 06:19 PM - Re: Re: Soldering 14AWG wires w/o cold solder (Charlie and Tupper England)
22. 06:44 PM - Re: Soldering 14AWG wires w/o cold solder joint . . . (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
23. 07:08 PM - Re: RCA Artificial Horizon Disappointment (Harold Kovac)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Reliability of Electric Gyros? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dan O'Brien" <danobrien@cox.net>
I've followed the thread on the RC Allen gyros, as I was also planning
their electric attitude and heading indicators for my panel. I've not
heard good things about these gyros, not on this website, not on other
websites, and not from a certain kit manufacturer. My flying club has had
what I would consider marginal luck with an RC Allen electric AI in put in
as a back up for IFR flight in one of our planes.
I've gone back and forth between spending $2000 on an instrument that may
be unreliable (from most of what I've heard) to spending $1000 on the
"cheaper knockoff" (Falcon) that many on the RV list have said is just
that, a cheap knock off. (I'm not saying that's the case, I'm just saying
that's what I've read.) I'm told by a kit manufacturer that BFG has a
bullet proof electric gryo, but it costs twice as much as RC Allen's. It's
not a happy situation having to spend $4000+ for a single instrument to get
acceptable reliability, and it's kind of hard to believe, but that may be
the state we're in.
For IFR flyers, this is obviously one of the more important instruments in
an all-electric panel. The request has been made on this list before, but
I think it's worth making again:
Anyone who has an electric gryo from RC Allen or Falcon, can you comment on
your experience with it? Does anyone know of a source of information on
the reliability of these things?
Message 2
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Eric M. Jones" <emjones@charter.net>
I think a pilot handbook I've seen suggest smashing the gauge glass with the butt
of your flashlight to use cabin air as an alt static source.
However, Clippard Minimatic makes very nice valves that look like toggle switches.
See: http://www.clippard.be/products/valves.shtml
Eric M. Jones
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Soldering 14AWG wires w/o cold solder joint |
. . .
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "David Carter" <dcarter@datarecall.net>
Bob & "KitFoxz",
You guys are both great. I like, save, & use both of your inputs. The best
was the fellow who said he went out and got a new 100W gun and was amazed at
how fast the wires went together. I think my gun was on its last legs and
not putting out enough heat - it did, in fact, go "poof" and die just as I
finished the "cold solder joint". I'll re-try with my new Weller gun - and
good tips from you guys.
David Carter
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: Soldering 14AWG wires w/o cold solder joint
. . .
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
<bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
>
> At 04:42 PM 1/12/2003 -0500, you wrote:
> >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: KITFOXZ@aol.com
> >
> >In a message dated 1/12/2003 1:53:22 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> >bob.nuckolls@cox.net writes:
> >
> > >
> > > Not true. Soldering guns while rated for 100-250 watts, put their
> > > energy into the WHOLE tip which if straightened out might be 2 to
> > > 3 inches long. Soldering guns are probably the lowest efficiency
> > > heat producing tools for soldering that there is. None the less,
> > > they do have the convenience of fast heat up, reasonably fast
> > > cool down and tend to be less hazardous than an always-hot device
> > > plugged into the wall....
> > >
> > >
> >
> >Hello Bob,
> >
> >As usual, you are very thorough. My little "Ten Commandments For
Electrical
> >Soldering" post was written with some "absolutes" that were designed to
give
> >a complete novice the best chance to succeed. I have seen too many
people
> >get discouraged when attempting to solder two wires together because they
got
> >out a big dirty heat producing monster and tried to dive bomb some molten
> >solder on a dirty pair of wires.
>
> <snip>
>
> >I too have used the best equipment available in my soldering experience
and I
> >once soldered a lamp cord together with a fire place poker. The original
> >post here was to outline how a novice could learn to solder two wires
> >together with success. There are many ways to get good results when
> >soldering with a variety of tools and conditions. I posted a step by
step
> >procedure here that if followed to the letter was intended to almost
> >guarantee success.
>
> I understand and agree. But consider that when someone is having
problems
> with any process, it's daunting to the neophyte when presented with
> a long list of do and don'ts, especially when the majority
> of them have nothing to do with their problem. It's the Occam's Razor
> thing ("Entities should not be multiplied unnecessarily.")
>
> I could have sat the nephew down in front of the blackboard and
> delivered a two-hour lecture on metallurgy sprinkled with some
> Mil-STD-2000 and Raytheon Soldering School dogma for good measure.
> He would have retained nothing of it worth remembering. Further, it
would
> have not helped him one bit at the work bench where he was making
> sloppy but serviceable joints in 20 minutes (in spite of failure
> to observe most of the popularly published do and don'ts).
>
> The popular systematic approach to solving problems
> is like someone standing outside watching their house burn.
> A fireman walks up and hands him a 1,000 page book on city fire
> codes, "Here study up on this and maybe you can keep it
> from happening again."
>
> I think we can do best as teachers to burrow down to the root
> cause of a specific difficult and try to impart understanding
> that gets them around the problem. As horizons expand
> and new problems arise, go after those issues individually.
> The skills will be quickly acquired, lessons will be permanently
> retained,
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | LR3C-14 low voltage light question |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Mark Doble" <mark@mddesigns.com>
Hi List,
i have the LR3 installed in my plane.
i used a LED/resistor combo instead of the included yellow warning light in
my panel.
when i flip on the master the light blinks hi brite/lo brite (note the led
does not blink completely off..just hi brite/lo brite...not sure if this is
normal?). Bus voltage reads 12.0.
when the engine is fired up volts are at 13.5 and the low voltage light
stays on, but does not blink.
only thing powered up in the panel are the electric attitue, t&b, and dg.
my battery is 1.5 years old Concorde...that has been charged up every three
months while in storage and fires the engine up fine.
any suggestions on why the low voltage light stays on? Is this caused by
the load of the battery charging? Ammeter shows a charge.
i have the b&c 60 amp alternator and used the Z-9 diagram to wire my plane
with the only change being a key switch instead of toggles for mags.
now that i type this i'm guessing there is voltage provided by the LR3 that
is causing the LED to light and would not light the supplied bulb??
thanks,
Mark.
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Reliability of Electric Gyros? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 08:51 AM 1/13/2003 -0500, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dan O'Brien" <danobrien@cox.net>
>
>I've followed the thread on the RC Allen gyros, as I was also planning
>their electric attitude and heading indicators for my panel. I've not
>heard good things about these gyros, not on this website, not on other
>websites, and not from a certain kit manufacturer. My flying club has had
>what I would consider marginal luck with an RC Allen electric AI in put in
>as a back up for IFR flight in one of our planes.
>
>I've gone back and forth between spending $2000 on an instrument that may
>be unreliable (from most of what I've heard) to spending $1000 on the
>"cheaper knockoff" (Falcon) that many on the RV list have said is just
>that, a cheap knock off. (I'm not saying that's the case, I'm just saying
>that's what I've read.) I'm told by a kit manufacturer that BFG has a
>bullet proof electric gryo, but it costs twice as much as RC Allen's. It's
>not a happy situation having to spend $4000+ for a single instrument to get
>acceptable reliability, and it's kind of hard to believe, but that may be
>the state we're in.
>
>For IFR flyers, this is obviously one of the more important instruments in
>an all-electric panel. The request has been made on this list before, but
>I think it's worth making again:
>Anyone who has an electric gryo from RC Allen or Falcon, can you comment on
>your experience with it? Does anyone know of a source of information on
>the reliability of these things?
Talk to instrument overhaul shops . . . they see lots
of all brands of gyros come over their work benches and
can give you a better feel for how a product is performing
in the marketplace . . . but consider their answers too.
I once asked an a/p about the serviceability of the low-dollar
contactors we sell on our website . . . these are direct descendants
of the RBM Controls contactors used on over 100,000 Cessnas and
others for decades. The guy said, "Man! I replace a lot of those.
I don't think they're nearly as good as the ones used on the
Beech Bonanza (Cutler-Hammer 6041H series . . . 10X the price)."
Looking around his shop and the ramp outside, Cessnas being
worked on and waiting to be worked on outnumbered all other
brands by 3 or 4 to 1 . . . His perception of reliability
was skewed by the disproportionate volumes of customers.
In fact, the low-dollar contactors, while not as hefty
as the mil-spec style are an excellent value.
One can cast about the web and get all kinds of positive
and negative opinion about any product . . . all of which
is meaningless unless you have data relative to the numbers
of owners who are experiencing satisfactory service life.
You won't get this from talking to owners, you won't
get it talking to manufacturer's . . . you might get
some useful information talking to people who work on
the products and airplanes that carry them.
Bob . . .
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Reliability of Electric Gyros? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Stephen Johnson" <spjohnsn@ix.netcom.com>
I would also be interested in data on this, because that's the way I plan to
go. Gyros have a shelf life, and if they sit for a length of time without
being run, the bearings are likely to fail. I plan to spin up my gyros
every week or so with a car battery after purchase to avoid this problem.
We need to ask ourselves if part of the reason for failures is due to time
spent on the ground without running.
Steve Johnson
building RV-8
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Reliability of Electric Gyros?
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
<bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
>
> At 08:51 AM 1/13/2003 -0500, you wrote:
> >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dan O'Brien"
<danobrien@cox.net>
> >
> >I've followed the thread on the RC Allen gyros, as I was also planning
> >their electric attitude and heading indicators for my panel. I've not
> >heard good things about these gyros, not on this website, not on other
> >websites, and not from a certain kit manufacturer. My flying club has
had
> >what I would consider marginal luck with an RC Allen electric AI in put
in
> >as a back up for IFR flight in one of our planes.
> >
> >I've gone back and forth between spending $2000 on an instrument that may
> >be unreliable (from most of what I've heard) to spending $1000 on the
> >"cheaper knockoff" (Falcon) that many on the RV list have said is just
> >that, a cheap knock off. (I'm not saying that's the case, I'm just
saying
> >that's what I've read.) I'm told by a kit manufacturer that BFG has a
> >bullet proof electric gryo, but it costs twice as much as RC Allen's.
It's
> >not a happy situation having to spend $4000+ for a single instrument to
get
> >acceptable reliability, and it's kind of hard to believe, but that may be
> >the state we're in.
> >
> >For IFR flyers, this is obviously one of the more important instruments
in
> >an all-electric panel. The request has been made on this list before,
but
> >I think it's worth making again:
> >Anyone who has an electric gryo from RC Allen or Falcon, can you comment
on
> >your experience with it? Does anyone know of a source of information on
> >the reliability of these things?
>
> Talk to instrument overhaul shops . . . they see lots
> of all brands of gyros come over their work benches and
> can give you a better feel for how a product is performing
> in the marketplace . . . but consider their answers too.
>
> I once asked an a/p about the serviceability of the low-dollar
> contactors we sell on our website . . . these are direct descendants
> of the RBM Controls contactors used on over 100,000 Cessnas and
> others for decades. The guy said, "Man! I replace a lot of those.
> I don't think they're nearly as good as the ones used on the
> Beech Bonanza (Cutler-Hammer 6041H series . . . 10X the price)."
>
> Looking around his shop and the ramp outside, Cessnas being
> worked on and waiting to be worked on outnumbered all other
> brands by 3 or 4 to 1 . . . His perception of reliability
> was skewed by the disproportionate volumes of customers.
> In fact, the low-dollar contactors, while not as hefty
> as the mil-spec style are an excellent value.
>
> One can cast about the web and get all kinds of positive
> and negative opinion about any product . . . all of which
> is meaningless unless you have data relative to the numbers
> of owners who are experiencing satisfactory service life.
> You won't get this from talking to owners, you won't
> get it talking to manufacturer's . . . you might get
> some useful information talking to people who work on
> the products and airplanes that carry them.
>
> Bob . . .
Message 7
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Walter Casey <mikec@caseyspm.com>
Thanks Eric,
What a great source.
Walter Casey
On Monday, January 13, 2003, at 07:22 AM, Eric M. Jones wrote:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Eric M. Jones"
> <emjones@charter.net>
>
> I think a pilot handbook I've seen suggest smashing the gauge glass
> with the butt of your flashlight to use cabin air as an alt static
> source.
>
> However, Clippard Minimatic makes very nice valves that look like
> toggle switches. See: http://www.clippard.be/products/valves.shtml
>
> Eric M. Jones
>
>
> _-
> ======================================================================
> _-
> ======================================================================
> _-
> ======================================================================
> _-
> ======================================================================
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Reliability of Electric Gyros? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Greg Young" <gyoung@cs-sol.com>
I recently had to get my Navion's DG overhauled. It is an old vacuum RCA
that had operated since at least 1987 without a filter (I installed one
as soon as I discovered it). I took it in because the card spun on
startup, but it still tracked fine after it was set. The shop found a
tremendous accumulation of junk inside due to lack of a filter for so
many years/hours but it still performed. I am impressed with that kind
of tolerance. The DG is back in and even though there's no indicated
problem I'll get the RCA AH O/H'd before I start flying IFR but overall
I'm happy with the RCA gyros.
That said, while I was there, I asked the shop's opinion about various
brands for use in my RV. They said both RC Allen and Sigmatek were good,
solid gyros for the GA market and that they could not O/H the Chinese
imports (Falcon/Woltrad). They could not see a significant reliability
difference between RCA and Sigmatek. When I pressed them for differences
and a recommendation, they got that Tim Allen/Toolman glaze when
describing the internal construction of the Sigmatek. I can't relate the
details but it involved the bearings and quality of machining. Based on
that, I'll be going with Sigmatek for the RV or any replacement. I did
not specifically ask them about electric vs vacuum so I'll second Bob's
suggestion to talk to an instrument shop and get their opinion.
Regards,
Greg Young - Houston (DWH)
RV-6 N6GY ...project Phoenix
Navion N5221K - just an XXL RV-6A
> At 08:51 AM 1/13/2003 -0500, you wrote:
> >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dan O'Brien"
> >--> <danobrien@cox.net>
> >
> >I've followed the thread on the RC Allen gyros, as I was
> also planning
> >their electric attitude and heading indicators for my panel.
> I've not
> >heard good things about these gyros, not on this website,
> not on other
> >websites, and not from a certain kit manufacturer. My
> flying club has
> >had what I would consider marginal luck with an RC Allen
> electric AI in
> >put in as a back up for IFR flight in one of our planes.
> >
> >it? Does anyone know of a source of information on the
> reliability of
> >these things?
>
> Talk to instrument overhaul shops . . . they see lots
> of all brands of gyros come over their work benches and
> can give you a better feel for how a product is performing
> in the marketplace . . . but consider their answers too.
>
Message 9
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Miller Robert <rmiller3@earthlink.net>
> > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Eric M. Jones"
> > <emjones@charter.net>
> >
> > However, Clippard Minimatic makes very nice valves that look like
> > toggle switches. See: http://www.clippard.be/products/valves.shtml
> >
> > Eric M. Jones
Interesting web-site.
Could you specify the model number of the particular valve you used?
Thanks.
Robert
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: LR3C-14 low voltage light question |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 09:40 AM 1/13/2003 -0500, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Mark Doble" <mark@mddesigns.com>
>
>Hi List,
>
>i have the LR3 installed in my plane.
>
>i used a LED/resistor combo instead of the included yellow warning light in
>my panel.
>
>when i flip on the master the light blinks hi brite/lo brite (note the led
>does not blink completely off..just hi brite/lo brite...not sure if this is
>normal?). Bus voltage reads 12.0.
The lamp driver in the LR3 is specifically designed to drive
incandescent lamps. To substitute an LED, you need to make the
LED look more like an incandescent . . . see:
http://216.55.140.222/temp/LV_Led.jpg
Bob . . .
Message 11
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jim Lane" <jlane@crosscountybank.com>
Bob,
I am installing the Mav elevator trim in my RV-8. I see in your drawing, Pitch
Trim, page 4.1 you use 3 amp circuit breakers.
Mac recommends 1 amp CB's.
Is there any reason to use 3 amp as opposed to 1 amp?
Also, I was planning to use the same circuit breaker for the Mac servo relay deck
and the pitch trim light indicator.
Jim
Message 12
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 12:44 PM 1/13/2003 -0600, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jim Lane"
><jlane@crosscountybank.com>
>
>Bob,
>
>I am installing the Mav elevator trim in my RV-8. I see in your drawing,
>Pitch Trim, page 4.1 you use 3 amp circuit breakers.
>
>Mac recommends 1 amp CB's.
>
>Is there any reason to use 3 amp as opposed to 1 amp?
>
>Also, I was planning to use the same circuit breaker for the Mac servo
>relay deck and the pitch trim light indicator.
>
>Jim
The drawings are intended to describe architectures. Details
such as wire sizing and associated protection need to be
considered for each application. The MAC actuators are
quite happy with 1A protection. When wired with 22AWG wire
protection up to 5A represents no hazard. So in this
case, what ever floats your boat . . .
Bob. . .
Message 13
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Fergus Kyle" <VE3LVO@rac.ca>
Bob,
I put together the Cole-Hersey ground plug assembly - following
your article to the letter - and am pleased with the rigidity and facility.
It goes on the outside of the battery compartment behind the portside
baggage area - and next to both batteries.
In fig3, page 3 of the article, you quote an AirSpruce cat#
111-140 for what I suppose to be the GP contactor. This item is no longer in
the book. I am supposing it's a starter-type for greater current capability
(and shorter interval), but suitable for battery charging and ship services.
ACS don't give details/numbers, but I have been told I need 180A for the
glowplugs and 240A to crank Old Betsy (diesel). However to be certain, could
you confirm the choice? If I order another of your selection, I presume the
preventive diode would be internal.
The glowplug current is likely extended interval to achieve best
temp, but am told Ol' Betsy takes only a few seconds to come to life after
glowing although I don't know the coulombs. Any comment you might like to
make concerning the current anticipated would be most welcome.
Regards, Ferg
Europa A064
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: RCA Artificial Horizon Disappointment |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Walter Casey <mikec@caseyspm.com>
>>
I just tried to go to Dynon and their web site is closed.
http://www.dynondevelopment.com/index.html
Walter
>> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Rob Miller
>> <rmill2000@yahoo.com>
>>
>> Hi listers
>>
>> After completing some electronic installations in the "Bad Cat." I
>> thought I needed to express my utter disappointment with my brand new
>> RC
>> Allen Artificial Horizon. After nearly $2,000, the unit worked for
>> about
>> an hour, then rolled over and died. It came back to life several
>> times
>> only to die once again. No flag came up, nothing, just erroneous info
>> that could have had dire results had I been in the clouds. The unit
>> was
>> returned to the avionics shop where it is being repaired--I can hardly
>> wait.
>>
>> Also, the horizon came with absolutely no paperwork. No warranty
>> details,
>> installation info, or even a "thank you for buying our product" note.
>> I
>> even had to spend $35 on a connector to hook up power--I feel this
>> should
>> have been included.
>>
>> In short, Dynon, Blue Mountain, and anyone else out there, please get
>> your
>> product to the marketplace and give us consumers a choice. The better
>> mousetrap must be right around the corner.
>>
>> Rob Miller RV-8 N262RM "Bad Cat" 40 hrs.
>>
>>
>
>
> _-
> ======================================================================
> _-
> ======================================================================
> _-
> ======================================================================
> _-
> ======================================================================
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: GPU contactor |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 04:29 PM 1/13/2003 -0500, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Fergus Kyle" <VE3LVO@rac.ca>
>
>Bob,
> I put together the Cole-Hersey ground plug assembly - following
>your article to the letter - and am pleased with the rigidity and facility.
>It goes on the outside of the battery compartment behind the portside
>baggage area - and next to both batteries.
> In fig3, page 3 of the article, you quote an AirSpruce cat#
>111-140 for what I suppose to be the GP contactor. This item is no longer in
>the book. I am supposing it's a starter-type for greater current capability
>(and shorter interval), but suitable for battery charging and ship services.
>ACS don't give details/numbers, but I have been told I need 180A for the
>glowplugs and 240A to crank Old Betsy (diesel). However to be certain, could
>you confirm the choice? If I order another of your selection, I presume the
>preventive diode would be internal.
> The glowplug current is likely extended interval to achieve best
>temp, but am told Ol' Betsy takes only a few seconds to come to life after
>glowing although I don't know the coulombs. Any comment you might like to
>make concerning the current anticipated would be most welcome.
>Regards, Ferg
>Europa A064
That number was selected as a potentially useful part
at the time the article was written and before we had
any parts offerings on our website. The S701-1 contactor
should do nicely. See:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Catalog/switch/switch.html#s701-1
and
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Catalog/BCcatalog.html
Bob . . .
Message 16
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| Subject: | How To, engine sensors and howto mount |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Werner Schneider" <WernerSchneider@compuserve.com>
As I have no feedback to this I post again with a more specific subject
----- Original Message -----
From: "Werner Schneider" <WernerSchneider@compuserve.com>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Radio Master Switch
> I have two other question, they (Insight) say:
>
> ......engine harnesses (probes) should be positioned away from sources
of
> high energy, such as ignition harnesses,.....
>
> The wires of the probes itself are surounded with a metall shielding. Do
I
> have a problem, if I bundle this wires partly together with the ignition
> harness (same clamp to the rocker box screws)??
>
> The probes I have came with a set out of a crimp pin and and a socket.
> Insight seams to have standard wires without any shield and is using ring
> terminals with screws to make a connection point on the way from the
> instrument to the connector.
>
> My question is now, should I really cut the wires (breaking the shielding)
> with one of the methodes above. Or do I have a better setup, if I leave
them
> intact from the probe to the instrument 30 pin connector?
>
> If you want, I can send you the installation instruction as PDF.
>
> Many thanks for helping us so much with your deep knowledge!
>
> Kind regards
>
> Werner
>
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Dynon Website Offline? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Shaun Simpkins" <shauns@hevanet.com>
Don't panic, I just talked with Dynon. They weren't even aware that their
web server had
shut down their website. They are very much open and cranking away.
Check in again tomorrow, the problem should be resolved by then.
Shaun
Message 18
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| Subject: | Dynon Website Fine |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Ross Mickey" <rmickey@ix.netcom.com>
I just tried and got on fine.
Ross Mickey
----- Original Message -----
From: "Walter Casey" <mikec@caseyspm.com>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: RCA Artificial Horizon Disappointment
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Walter Casey <mikec@caseyspm.com>
>
> >>
> I just tried to go to Dynon and their web site is closed.
> http://www.dynondevelopment.com/index.html
> Walter
>
>
> >> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Rob Miller
> >> <rmill2000@yahoo.com>
> >>
> >> Hi listers
> >>
> >> After completing some electronic installations in the "Bad Cat." I
> >> thought I needed to express my utter disappointment with my brand new
> >> RC
> >> Allen Artificial Horizon. After nearly $2,000, the unit worked for
> >> about
> >> an hour, then rolled over and died. It came back to life several
> >> times
> >> only to die once again. No flag came up, nothing, just erroneous info
> >> that could have had dire results had I been in the clouds. The unit
> >> was
> >> returned to the avionics shop where it is being repaired--I can hardly
> >> wait.
> >>
> >> Also, the horizon came with absolutely no paperwork. No warranty
> >> details,
> >> installation info, or even a "thank you for buying our product" note.
> >> I
> >> even had to spend $35 on a connector to hook up power--I feel this
> >> should
> >> have been included.
> >>
> >> In short, Dynon, Blue Mountain, and anyone else out there, please get
> >> your
> >> product to the marketplace and give us consumers a choice. The better
> >> mousetrap must be right around the corner.
> >>
> >> Rob Miller RV-8 N262RM "Bad Cat" 40 hrs.
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> > _-
> > ======================================================================
> > _-
> > ======================================================================
> > _-
> > ======================================================================
> > _-
> > ======================================================================
> >
> >
>
>
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Dynon Website Fine |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Billie Lamb" <N254BL@cfl.rr.com>
Dynon didn't work for me. Message said "Unknown Zone"
Bill Lamb
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ross Mickey" <rmickey@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Dynon Website Fine
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Ross Mickey"
<rmickey@ix.netcom.com>
>
> I just tried and got on fine.
>
> Ross Mickey
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Walter Casey" <mikec@caseyspm.com>
> To: <aeroelectric-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: RCA Artificial Horizon Disappointment
>
>
> > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Walter Casey
<mikec@caseyspm.com>
> >
> > >>
> > I just tried to go to Dynon and their web site is closed.
> > http://www.dynondevelopment.com/index.html
> > Walter
> >
> >
> > >> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Rob Miller
> > >> <rmill2000@yahoo.com>
> > >>
> > >> Hi listers
> > >>
> > >> After completing some electronic installations in the "Bad Cat." I
> > >> thought I needed to express my utter disappointment with my brand new
> > >> RC
> > >> Allen Artificial Horizon. After nearly $2,000, the unit worked for
> > >> about
> > >> an hour, then rolled over and died. It came back to life several
> > >> times
> > >> only to die once again. No flag came up, nothing, just erroneous
info
> > >> that could have had dire results had I been in the clouds. The unit
> > >> was
> > >> returned to the avionics shop where it is being repaired--I can
hardly
> > >> wait.
> > >>
> > >> Also, the horizon came with absolutely no paperwork. No warranty
> > >> details,
> > >> installation info, or even a "thank you for buying our product" note.
> > >> I
> > >> even had to spend $35 on a connector to hook up power--I feel this
> > >> should
> > >> have been included.
> > >>
> > >> In short, Dynon, Blue Mountain, and anyone else out there, please get
> > >> your
> > >> product to the marketplace and give us consumers a choice. The
better
> > >> mousetrap must be right around the corner.
> > >>
> > >> Rob Miller RV-8 N262RM "Bad Cat" 40 hrs.
> > >>
> > >>
> > >
> > >
> > > _-
> > > ======================================================================
> > > _-
> > > ======================================================================
> > > _-
> > > ======================================================================
> > > _-
> > > ======================================================================
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: RCA Artificial Horizon Disappointment |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Robert McCallum <robert.mccallum2@sympatico.ca>
Walter Casey wrote:
> >>
> I just tried to go to Dynon and their web site is closed.
> http://www.dynondevelopment.com/index.html
> Walter
Works fine for me.
--
Bob McC
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Soldering 14AWG wires w/o cold solder |
joint . . .
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Charlie and Tupper England <cengland@netdoor.com>
David Carter wrote:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "David Carter" <dcarter@datarecall.net>
>
> Bob & "KitFoxz",
>
> You guys are both great. I like, save, & use both of your inputs. The best
> was the fellow who said he went out and got a new 100W gun and was amazed at
> how fast the wires went together. I think my gun was on its last legs and
> not putting out enough heat - it did, in fact, go "poof" and die just as I
> finished the "cold solder joint". I'll re-try with my new Weller gun - and
> good tips from you guys.
>
> David Carter
>
snipped
>>>>
One thing I haven't seen mentioned: most solder training includes the admonition
to first prepare the joint so that mechanical integrity is supplied by the
joint, not the solder. The solder should only supply electrical continuity. A
side benefit is that you will have a much easier time making a good electrical
connection with the solder.
Also, I'd like to see comments from the guys with 'credentials' (I'm limited to
lots of experience) about the old 'stress riser from solder' line that seems to
surface in any electrical discussion. My experience has been that whether you
transition from stranded to solid at the solder or at the crimp, you still have
a stress riser. If no strain relief is supplied and/or the wire isn't held
stable after leaving the connector, it is likely to break.
Comments?
Charlie
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Soldering 14AWG wires w/o cold solder joint . . |
.
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
>
>
>One thing I haven't seen mentioned: most solder training includes the
>admonition
>to first prepare the joint so that mechanical integrity is supplied by the
>joint, not the solder. The solder should only supply electrical continuity. A
>side benefit is that you will have a much easier time making a good
>electrical
>connection with the solder.
Kinda, sorta true but mostly BS. It is true that solder is not as
"structural" as the materials it commonly joins. When the notion "make it
mechanically strong first and electrically strong with solder later"
was king, guys driving Model A trucks and a few horse drawn wagons
were running wires between poles to wire up lights, railroad signals
and later, some telephones.
Nowadays, solder is both the structural -AND- electrical member in
most electronic assemblies for holding surface mount parts to etched
circuit boards. Solder sleeves are another good example of the dual
role (structure/conductive) capabilities of solder.
When you twist two clean wires together, they are now capable of
conducting electrical current across the joint about as well as they
ever can. The effects of environment would eventually degrade that
condition if left open to atmosphere. Solder provides a gas tight
exclusion of the environment that maintains the original quality
of the joint within.
Reasonably clean materials to be soldered will be quite cooperative
when soldering . . . even when solder is the structural component
of the joint, as long as you're using the material within it's
well known limits.
>Also, I'd like to see comments from the guys with 'credentials' (I'm
>limited to
>lots of experience) about the old 'stress riser from solder' line that
>seems to
>surface in any electrical discussion.
>My experience has been that whether you
>transition from stranded to solid at the solder or at the crimp, you still
>have
>a stress riser. If no strain relief is supplied and/or the wire isn't held
>stable after leaving the connector, it is likely to break.
See articles on terminals at:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/rules/review.html
and
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/terminal.pdf
You are correct . . .
Crimping a terminal on a wire makes it just as "solid" in
the joint as solder does. Without proper support of the
wire just outside the solid to stranded transition,
soldered and crimped wires are both equally vulnerable
to flexure stress and failure. That's the magic of
a PIDG terminal . . .
Bob . . .
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: RCA Artificial Horizon Disappointment |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Harold Kovac" <kayce@sysmatrix.net>
Hi Walter,
I'm also interested in Dynon, just schecked their site, and they're home.
Try again.
Harold Kovac
----- Original Message -----
From: "Walter Casey" <mikec@caseyspm.com>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: RCA Artificial Horizon Disappointment
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Walter Casey <mikec@caseyspm.com>
>
> >>
> I just tried to go to Dynon and their web site is closed.
> http://www.dynondevelopment.com/index.html
> Walter
>
>
> >> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Rob Miller
> >> <rmill2000@yahoo.com>
> >>
> >> Hi listers
> >>
> >> After completing some electronic installations in the "Bad Cat." I
> >> thought I needed to express my utter disappointment with my brand new
> >> RC
> >> Allen Artificial Horizon. After nearly $2,000, the unit worked for
> >> about
> >> an hour, then rolled over and died. It came back to life several
> >> times
> >> only to die once again. No flag came up, nothing, just erroneous info
> >> that could have had dire results had I been in the clouds. The unit
> >> was
> >> returned to the avionics shop where it is being repaired--I can hardly
> >> wait.
> >>
> >> Also, the horizon came with absolutely no paperwork. No warranty
> >> details,
> >> installation info, or even a "thank you for buying our product" note.
> >> I
> >> even had to spend $35 on a connector to hook up power--I feel this
> >> should
> >> have been included.
> >>
> >> In short, Dynon, Blue Mountain, and anyone else out there, please get
> >> your
> >> product to the marketplace and give us consumers a choice. The better
> >> mousetrap must be right around the corner.
> >>
> >> Rob Miller RV-8 N262RM "Bad Cat" 40 hrs.
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> > _-
> > ======================================================================
> > _-
> > ======================================================================
> > _-
> > ======================================================================
> > _-
> > ======================================================================
> >
> >
>
>
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