Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:08 AM - Re:Static Air and Soldering Tip (Eric M. Jones)
2. 07:15 AM - GPU contactor (Fergus Kyle)
3. 09:50 AM - Reliability of Electric Gyros? (brucem@olypen.com)
4. 10:37 AM - Re: Reliability of Electric Gyros? (Paul McAllister)
5. 11:01 AM - LR-3 (Steve Sampson)
6. 01:35 PM - Re: Switch on a strobe line? (Phil Birkelbach)
7. 01:42 PM - Re: Switch on a strobe line? (BobsV35B@aol.com)
8. 01:51 PM - alt field and overvoltage contactor connection (Robert Dickson)
9. 01:55 PM - Re: Switch on a strobe line? (Phil Birkelbach)
10. 03:12 PM - Re: Switch on a strobe line? (LarryRobertHelming)
11. 04:58 PM - Re: Connectors - its the little things that get you! (Billie Lamb)
12. 05:12 PM - Re: Connectors - its the little things that get you! (Larry Bowen)
13. 05:16 PM - SEC: UNCLASSIFIED - WIRE SIZE QUESTION (Francis, David CMDR)
14. 05:17 PM - Re: RCA Artificial Horizon Disappointment (kc)
15. 06:06 PM - Re: SEC: UNCLASSIFIED - WIRE SIZE QUESTION (Matt Prather)
16. 06:19 PM - Re: Connectors - its the little things that get you! (Billie Lamb)
17. 08:22 PM - Re: SEC: UNCLASSIFIED - WIRE SIZE QUESTION (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
18. 09:17 PM - Battery De-Sulphating Gizmos Redux (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re:Static Air and Soldering Tip |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Eric M. Jones" <emjones@charter.net>
Re: Static Air: I don't know which Clippard Valve is best. They do make a
suitable toggle-handle valve as big as the last joint of your thumb. Don't
forget to buy the screw-in hosebarbs. Get the catalog or talk to a
distributor.
Re: Soldering: I didn't read all the soldering stuff but if nobody mentioned
it, one of the things to remember is to regularly tighten the soldering
iron's mechanical joints. It's amazing how much better things work then.
Regards,
Eric M. Jones
----- Original Message -----
From: "AeroElectric-List Digest Server"
<aeroelectric-list-digest@matronics.com>
Subject: AeroElectric-List Digest: 23 Msgs - 01/13/03
> *
>
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>
> AeroElectric-List Digest Archive
> ---
> Total Messages Posted Mon 01/13/03: 23
>
>
> Today's Message Index:
> ----------------------
>
> 1. 05:53 AM - Reliability of Electric Gyros? (Dan O'Brien)
> 2. 06:21 AM - Re: Static Air (Eric M. Jones)
> 3. 06:21 AM - Re: Re: Soldering 14AWG wires w/o cold solder joint . .
. (David Carter)
> 4. 06:40 AM - LR3C-14 low voltage light question (Mark Doble)
> 5. 06:41 AM - Re: Reliability of Electric Gyros? (Robert L.
Nuckolls, III)
> 6. 07:09 AM - Re: Reliability of Electric Gyros? (Stephen Johnson)
> 7. 07:38 AM - Re: Re: Static Air (Walter Casey)
> 8. 08:29 AM - Re: Reliability of Electric Gyros? (Greg Young)
> 9. 09:12 AM - Re: Re: Static Air (Miller Robert)
> 10. 10:33 AM - Re: LR3C-14 low voltage light question (Robert L.
Nuckolls, III)
> 11. 10:39 AM - Mac trim (Jim Lane)
> 12. 10:55 AM - Re: Mac trim (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
> 13. 01:30 PM - GPU contactor (Fergus Kyle)
> 14. 01:38 PM - Re: RCA Artificial Horizon Disappointment (Walter
Casey)
> 15. 01:46 PM - Re: GPU contactor (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
> 16. 02:13 PM - How To, engine sensors and howto mount (Werner
Schneider)
> 17. 02:20 PM - Re: Dynon Website Offline? (Shaun Simpkins)
> 18. 02:24 PM - Dynon Website Fine (Ross Mickey)
> 19. 03:50 PM - Re: Dynon Website Fine (Billie Lamb)
> 20. 05:58 PM - Re: RCA Artificial Horizon Disappointment (Robert
McCallum)
> 21. 06:19 PM - Re: Re: Soldering 14AWG wires w/o cold solder (Charlie
and Tupper England)
> 22. 06:44 PM - Re: Soldering 14AWG wires w/o cold solder joint . . .
(Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
> 23. 07:08 PM - Re: RCA Artificial Horizon Disappointment (Harold
Kovac)
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 1
_____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 05:53:00 AM PST US
> From: "Dan O'Brien" <danobrien@cox.net>
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: Reliability of Electric Gyros?
>
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dan O'Brien" <danobrien@cox.net>
>
> I've followed the thread on the RC Allen gyros, as I was also planning
> their electric attitude and heading indicators for my panel. I've not
> heard good things about these gyros, not on this website, not on other
> websites, and not from a certain kit manufacturer. My flying club has had
> what I would consider marginal luck with an RC Allen electric AI in put in
> as a back up for IFR flight in one of our planes.
>
> I've gone back and forth between spending $2000 on an instrument that may
> be unreliable (from most of what I've heard) to spending $1000 on the
> "cheaper knockoff" (Falcon) that many on the RV list have said is just
> that, a cheap knock off. (I'm not saying that's the case, I'm just saying
> that's what I've read.) I'm told by a kit manufacturer that BFG has a
> bullet proof electric gryo, but it costs twice as much as RC Allen's.
It's
> not a happy situation having to spend $4000+ for a single instrument to
get
> acceptable reliability, and it's kind of hard to believe, but that may be
> the state we're in.
>
> For IFR flyers, this is obviously one of the more important instruments in
> an all-electric panel. The request has been made on this list before, but
> I think it's worth making again:
> Anyone who has an electric gryo from RC Allen or Falcon, can you comment
on
> your experience with it? Does anyone know of a source of information on
> the reliability of these things?
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 2
_____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 06:21:58 AM PST US
> From: "Eric M. Jones" <emjones@charter.net>
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: Static Air
>
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Eric M. Jones"
<emjones@charter.net>
>
> I think a pilot handbook I've seen suggest smashing the gauge glass with
the butt
> of your flashlight to use cabin air as an alt static source.
>
> However, Clippard Minimatic makes very nice valves that look like toggle
switches.
> See: http://www.clippard.be/products/valves.shtml
>
> Eric M. Jones
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 3
_____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 06:21:58 AM PST US
> From: "David Carter" <dcarter@datarecall.net>
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: Soldering 14AWG wires w/o cold solder
joint
> . . .
>
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "David Carter"
<dcarter@datarecall.net>
>
> Bob & "KitFoxz",
>
> You guys are both great. I like, save, & use both of your inputs. The
best
> was the fellow who said he went out and got a new 100W gun and was amazed
at
> how fast the wires went together. I think my gun was on its last legs and
> not putting out enough heat - it did, in fact, go "poof" and die just as I
> finished the "cold solder joint". I'll re-try with my new Weller gun -
and
> good tips from you guys.
>
> David Carter
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: Soldering 14AWG wires w/o cold solder
joint
> . . .
>
>
> > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
> <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
> >
> > At 04:42 PM 1/12/2003 -0500, you wrote:
> > >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: KITFOXZ@aol.com
> > >
> > >In a message dated 1/12/2003 1:53:22 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> > >bob.nuckolls@cox.net writes:
> > >
> > > >
> > > > Not true. Soldering guns while rated for 100-250 watts, put their
> > > > energy into the WHOLE tip which if straightened out might be 2 to
> > > > 3 inches long. Soldering guns are probably the lowest efficiency
> > > > heat producing tools for soldering that there is. None the less,
> > > > they do have the convenience of fast heat up, reasonably fast
> > > > cool down and tend to be less hazardous than an always-hot device
> > > > plugged into the wall....
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >Hello Bob,
> > >
> > >As usual, you are very thorough. My little "Ten Commandments For
> Electrical
> > >Soldering" post was written with some "absolutes" that were designed to
> give
> > >a complete novice the best chance to succeed. I have seen too many
> people
> > >get discouraged when attempting to solder two wires together because
they
> got
> > >out a big dirty heat producing monster and tried to dive bomb some
molten
> > >solder on a dirty pair of wires.
> >
> > <snip>
> >
> > >I too have used the best equipment available in my soldering experience
> and I
> > >once soldered a lamp cord together with a fire place poker. The
original
> > >post here was to outline how a novice could learn to solder two wires
> > >together with success. There are many ways to get good results when
> > >soldering with a variety of tools and conditions. I posted a step by
> step
> > >procedure here that if followed to the letter was intended to almost
> > >guarantee success.
> >
> > I understand and agree. But consider that when someone is having
> problems
> > with any process, it's daunting to the neophyte when presented with
> > a long list of do and don'ts, especially when the majority
> > of them have nothing to do with their problem. It's the Occam's Razor
> > thing ("Entities should not be multiplied unnecessarily.")
> >
> > I could have sat the nephew down in front of the blackboard and
> > delivered a two-hour lecture on metallurgy sprinkled with some
> > Mil-STD-2000 and Raytheon Soldering School dogma for good measure.
> > He would have retained nothing of it worth remembering. Further, it
> would
> > have not helped him one bit at the work bench where he was making
> > sloppy but serviceable joints in 20 minutes (in spite of failure
> > to observe most of the popularly published do and don'ts).
> >
> > The popular systematic approach to solving problems
> > is like someone standing outside watching their house burn.
> > A fireman walks up and hands him a 1,000 page book on city fire
> > codes, "Here study up on this and maybe you can keep it
> > from happening again."
> >
> > I think we can do best as teachers to burrow down to the root
> > cause of a specific difficult and try to impart understanding
> > that gets them around the problem. As horizons expand
> > and new problems arise, go after those issues individually.
> > The skills will be quickly acquired, lessons will be permanently
> > retained,
> >
> > Bob . . .
> >
> >
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 4
_____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 06:40:30 AM PST US
> From: "Mark Doble" <mark@mddesigns.com>
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: LR3C-14 low voltage light question
>
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Mark Doble" <mark@mddesigns.com>
>
> Hi List,
>
> i have the LR3 installed in my plane.
>
> i used a LED/resistor combo instead of the included yellow warning light
in
> my panel.
>
> when i flip on the master the light blinks hi brite/lo brite (note the led
> does not blink completely off..just hi brite/lo brite...not sure if this
is
> normal?). Bus voltage reads 12.0.
>
> when the engine is fired up volts are at 13.5 and the low voltage light
> stays on, but does not blink.
>
> only thing powered up in the panel are the electric attitue, t&b, and dg.
>
> my battery is 1.5 years old Concorde...that has been charged up every
three
> months while in storage and fires the engine up fine.
>
> any suggestions on why the low voltage light stays on? Is this caused by
> the load of the battery charging? Ammeter shows a charge.
>
> i have the b&c 60 amp alternator and used the Z-9 diagram to wire my plane
> with the only change being a key switch instead of toggles for mags.
>
> now that i type this i'm guessing there is voltage provided by the LR3
that
> is causing the LED to light and would not light the supplied bulb??
>
> thanks,
>
> Mark.
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 5
_____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 06:41:55 AM PST US
> From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Reliability of Electric Gyros?
>
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
<bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
>
> At 08:51 AM 1/13/2003 -0500, you wrote:
> >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dan O'Brien"
<danobrien@cox.net>
> >
> >I've followed the thread on the RC Allen gyros, as I was also planning
> >their electric attitude and heading indicators for my panel. I've not
> >heard good things about these gyros, not on this website, not on other
> >websites, and not from a certain kit manufacturer. My flying club has
had
> >what I would consider marginal luck with an RC Allen electric AI in put
in
> >as a back up for IFR flight in one of our planes.
> >
> >I've gone back and forth between spending $2000 on an instrument that may
> >be unreliable (from most of what I've heard) to spending $1000 on the
> >"cheaper knockoff" (Falcon) that many on the RV list have said is just
> >that, a cheap knock off. (I'm not saying that's the case, I'm just
saying
> >that's what I've read.) I'm told by a kit manufacturer that BFG has a
> >bullet proof electric gryo, but it costs twice as much as RC Allen's.
It's
> >not a happy situation having to spend $4000+ for a single instrument to
get
> >acceptable reliability, and it's kind of hard to believe, but that may be
> >the state we're in.
> >
> >For IFR flyers, this is obviously one of the more important instruments
in
> >an all-electric panel. The request has been made on this list before,
but
> >I think it's worth making again:
> >Anyone who has an electric gryo from RC Allen or Falcon, can you comment
on
> >your experience with it? Does anyone know of a source of information on
> >the reliability of these things?
>
> Talk to instrument overhaul shops . . . they see lots
> of all brands of gyros come over their work benches and
> can give you a better feel for how a product is performing
> in the marketplace . . . but consider their answers too.
>
> I once asked an a/p about the serviceability of the low-dollar
> contactors we sell on our website . . . these are direct descendants
> of the RBM Controls contactors used on over 100,000 Cessnas and
> others for decades. The guy said, "Man! I replace a lot of those.
> I don't think they're nearly as good as the ones used on the
> Beech Bonanza (Cutler-Hammer 6041H series . . . 10X the price)."
>
> Looking around his shop and the ramp outside, Cessnas being
> worked on and waiting to be worked on outnumbered all other
> brands by 3 or 4 to 1 . . . His perception of reliability
> was skewed by the disproportionate volumes of customers.
> In fact, the low-dollar contactors, while not as hefty
> as the mil-spec style are an excellent value.
>
> One can cast about the web and get all kinds of positive
> and negative opinion about any product . . . all of which
> is meaningless unless you have data relative to the numbers
> of owners who are experiencing satisfactory service life.
> You won't get this from talking to owners, you won't
> get it talking to manufacturer's . . . you might get
> some useful information talking to people who work on
> the products and airplanes that carry them.
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 6
_____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 07:09:38 AM PST US
> From: "Stephen Johnson" <spjohnsn@ix.netcom.com>
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Reliability of Electric Gyros?
>
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Stephen Johnson"
<spjohnsn@ix.netcom.com>
>
> I would also be interested in data on this, because that's the way I plan
to
> go. Gyros have a shelf life, and if they sit for a length of time without
> being run, the bearings are likely to fail. I plan to spin up my gyros
> every week or so with a car battery after purchase to avoid this problem.
> We need to ask ourselves if part of the reason for failures is due to time
> spent on the ground without running.
>
> Steve Johnson
> building RV-8
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Reliability of Electric Gyros?
>
>
> > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
> <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
> >
> > At 08:51 AM 1/13/2003 -0500, you wrote:
> > >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dan O'Brien"
> <danobrien@cox.net>
> > >
> > >I've followed the thread on the RC Allen gyros, as I was also planning
> > >their electric attitude and heading indicators for my panel. I've not
> > >heard good things about these gyros, not on this website, not on other
> > >websites, and not from a certain kit manufacturer. My flying club has
> had
> > >what I would consider marginal luck with an RC Allen electric AI in put
> in
> > >as a back up for IFR flight in one of our planes.
> > >
> > >I've gone back and forth between spending $2000 on an instrument that
may
> > >be unreliable (from most of what I've heard) to spending $1000 on the
> > >"cheaper knockoff" (Falcon) that many on the RV list have said is just
> > >that, a cheap knock off. (I'm not saying that's the case, I'm just
> saying
> > >that's what I've read.) I'm told by a kit manufacturer that BFG has a
> > >bullet proof electric gryo, but it costs twice as much as RC Allen's.
> It's
> > >not a happy situation having to spend $4000+ for a single instrument to
> get
> > >acceptable reliability, and it's kind of hard to believe, but that may
be
> > >the state we're in.
> > >
> > >For IFR flyers, this is obviously one of the more important instruments
> in
> > >an all-electric panel. The request has been made on this list before,
> but
> > >I think it's worth making again:
> > >Anyone who has an electric gryo from RC Allen or Falcon, can you
comment
> on
> > >your experience with it? Does anyone know of a source of information
on
> > >the reliability of these things?
> >
> > Talk to instrument overhaul shops . . . they see lots
> > of all brands of gyros come over their work benches and
> > can give you a better feel for how a product is performing
> > in the marketplace . . . but consider their answers too.
> >
> > I once asked an a/p about the serviceability of the low-dollar
> > contactors we sell on our website . . . these are direct descendants
> > of the RBM Controls contactors used on over 100,000 Cessnas and
> > others for decades. The guy said, "Man! I replace a lot of those.
> > I don't think they're nearly as good as the ones used on the
> > Beech Bonanza (Cutler-Hammer 6041H series . . . 10X the price)."
> >
> > Looking around his shop and the ramp outside, Cessnas being
> > worked on and waiting to be worked on outnumbered all other
> > brands by 3 or 4 to 1 . . . His perception of reliability
> > was skewed by the disproportionate volumes of customers.
> > In fact, the low-dollar contactors, while not as hefty
> > as the mil-spec style are an excellent value.
> >
> > One can cast about the web and get all kinds of positive
> > and negative opinion about any product . . . all of which
> > is meaningless unless you have data relative to the numbers
> > of owners who are experiencing satisfactory service life.
> > You won't get this from talking to owners, you won't
> > get it talking to manufacturer's . . . you might get
> > some useful information talking to people who work on
> > the products and airplanes that carry them.
> >
> > Bob . . .
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 7
_____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 07:38:19 AM PST US
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: Static Air
> From: Walter Casey <mikec@caseyspm.com>
>
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Walter Casey <mikec@caseyspm.com>
>
> Thanks Eric,
> What a great source.
> Walter Casey
> On Monday, January 13, 2003, at 07:22 AM, Eric M. Jones wrote:
>
> > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Eric M. Jones"
> > <emjones@charter.net>
> >
> > I think a pilot handbook I've seen suggest smashing the gauge glass
> > with the butt of your flashlight to use cabin air as an alt static
> > source.
> >
> > However, Clippard Minimatic makes very nice valves that look like
> > toggle switches. See: http://www.clippard.be/products/valves.shtml
> >
> > Eric M. Jones
> >
> >
> > _-
> > ======================================================================
> > _-
> > ======================================================================
> > _-
> > ======================================================================
> > _-
> > ======================================================================
> >
> >
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 8
_____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 08:29:24 AM PST US
> From: "Greg Young" <gyoung@cs-sol.com>
> Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Reliability of Electric Gyros?
>
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Greg Young" <gyoung@cs-sol.com>
>
> I recently had to get my Navion's DG overhauled. It is an old vacuum RCA
> that had operated since at least 1987 without a filter (I installed one
> as soon as I discovered it). I took it in because the card spun on
> startup, but it still tracked fine after it was set. The shop found a
> tremendous accumulation of junk inside due to lack of a filter for so
> many years/hours but it still performed. I am impressed with that kind
> of tolerance. The DG is back in and even though there's no indicated
> problem I'll get the RCA AH O/H'd before I start flying IFR but overall
> I'm happy with the RCA gyros.
>
> That said, while I was there, I asked the shop's opinion about various
> brands for use in my RV. They said both RC Allen and Sigmatek were good,
> solid gyros for the GA market and that they could not O/H the Chinese
> imports (Falcon/Woltrad). They could not see a significant reliability
> difference between RCA and Sigmatek. When I pressed them for differences
> and a recommendation, they got that Tim Allen/Toolman glaze when
> describing the internal construction of the Sigmatek. I can't relate the
> details but it involved the bearings and quality of machining. Based on
> that, I'll be going with Sigmatek for the RV or any replacement. I did
> not specifically ask them about electric vs vacuum so I'll second Bob's
> suggestion to talk to an instrument shop and get their opinion.
>
> Regards,
> Greg Young - Houston (DWH)
> RV-6 N6GY ...project Phoenix
> Navion N5221K - just an XXL RV-6A
>
> > At 08:51 AM 1/13/2003 -0500, you wrote:
> > >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dan O'Brien"
> > >--> <danobrien@cox.net>
> > >
> > >I've followed the thread on the RC Allen gyros, as I was
> > also planning
> > >their electric attitude and heading indicators for my panel.
> > I've not
> > >heard good things about these gyros, not on this website,
> > not on other
> > >websites, and not from a certain kit manufacturer. My
> > flying club has
> > >had what I would consider marginal luck with an RC Allen
> > electric AI in
> > >put in as a back up for IFR flight in one of our planes.
> > >
> > >it? Does anyone know of a source of information on the
> > reliability of
> > >these things?
> >
> > Talk to instrument overhaul shops . . . they see lots
> > of all brands of gyros come over their work benches and
> > can give you a better feel for how a product is performing
> > in the marketplace . . . but consider their answers too.
> >
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 9
_____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 09:12:05 AM PST US
> From: Miller Robert <rmiller3@earthlink.net>
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: Static Air
>
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Miller Robert
<rmiller3@earthlink.net>
>
> > > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Eric M. Jones"
> > > <emjones@charter.net>
> > >
> > > However, Clippard Minimatic makes very nice valves that look like
> > > toggle switches. See: http://www.clippard.be/products/valves.shtml
> > >
> > > Eric M. Jones
>
> Interesting web-site.
> Could you specify the model number of the particular valve you used?
>
> Thanks.
> Robert
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 10
____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 10:33:01 AM PST US
> From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: LR3C-14 low voltage light question
>
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
<bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
>
> At 09:40 AM 1/13/2003 -0500, you wrote:
> >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Mark Doble"
<mark@mddesigns.com>
> >
> >Hi List,
> >
> >i have the LR3 installed in my plane.
> >
> >i used a LED/resistor combo instead of the included yellow warning light
in
> >my panel.
> >
> >when i flip on the master the light blinks hi brite/lo brite (note the
led
> >does not blink completely off..just hi brite/lo brite...not sure if this
is
> >normal?). Bus voltage reads 12.0.
>
>
> The lamp driver in the LR3 is specifically designed to drive
> incandescent lamps. To substitute an LED, you need to make the
> LED look more like an incandescent . . . see:
>
> http://216.55.140.222/temp/LV_Led.jpg
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 11
____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 10:39:12 AM PST US
> From: "Jim Lane" <jlane@crosscountybank.com>
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: Mac trim
>
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jim Lane"
<jlane@crosscountybank.com>
>
> Bob,
>
> I am installing the Mav elevator trim in my RV-8. I see in your drawing,
Pitch
> Trim, page 4.1 you use 3 amp circuit breakers.
>
> Mac recommends 1 amp CB's.
>
> Is there any reason to use 3 amp as opposed to 1 amp?
>
> Also, I was planning to use the same circuit breaker for the Mac servo
relay deck
> and the pitch trim light indicator.
>
> Jim
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 12
____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 10:55:19 AM PST US
> From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Mac trim
>
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
<bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
>
> At 12:44 PM 1/13/2003 -0600, you wrote:
> >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jim Lane"
> ><jlane@crosscountybank.com>
> >
> >Bob,
> >
> >I am installing the Mav elevator trim in my RV-8. I see in your drawing,
> >Pitch Trim, page 4.1 you use 3 amp circuit breakers.
> >
> >Mac recommends 1 amp CB's.
> >
> >Is there any reason to use 3 amp as opposed to 1 amp?
> >
> >Also, I was planning to use the same circuit breaker for the Mac servo
> >relay deck and the pitch trim light indicator.
> >
> >Jim
>
> The drawings are intended to describe architectures. Details
> such as wire sizing and associated protection need to be
> considered for each application. The MAC actuators are
> quite happy with 1A protection. When wired with 22AWG wire
> protection up to 5A represents no hazard. So in this
> case, what ever floats your boat . . .
>
> Bob. . .
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 13
____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 01:30:57 PM PST US
> From: "Fergus Kyle" <VE3LVO@rac.ca>
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: GPU contactor
>
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Fergus Kyle" <VE3LVO@rac.ca>
>
> Bob,
> I put together the Cole-Hersey ground plug assembly -
following
> your article to the letter - and am pleased with the rigidity and
facility.
> It goes on the outside of the battery compartment behind the portside
> baggage area - and next to both batteries.
> In fig3, page 3 of the article, you quote an AirSpruce cat#
> 111-140 for what I suppose to be the GP contactor. This item is no longer
in
> the book. I am supposing it's a starter-type for greater current
capability
> (and shorter interval), but suitable for battery charging and ship
services.
> ACS don't give details/numbers, but I have been told I need 180A for the
> glowplugs and 240A to crank Old Betsy (diesel). However to be certain,
could
> you confirm the choice? If I order another of your selection, I presume
the
> preventive diode would be internal.
> The glowplug current is likely extended interval to achieve
best
> temp, but am told Ol' Betsy takes only a few seconds to come to life after
> glowing although I don't know the coulombs. Any comment you might like to
> make concerning the current anticipated would be most welcome.
> Regards, Ferg
> Europa A064
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 14
____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 01:38:10 PM PST US
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: RCA Artificial Horizon Disappointment
> From: Walter Casey <mikec@caseyspm.com>
>
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Walter Casey <mikec@caseyspm.com>
>
> >>
> I just tried to go to Dynon and their web site is closed.
> http://www.dynondevelopment.com/index.html
> Walter
>
>
> >> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Rob Miller
> >> <rmill2000@yahoo.com>
> >>
> >> Hi listers
> >>
> >> After completing some electronic installations in the "Bad Cat." I
> >> thought I needed to express my utter disappointment with my brand new
> >> RC
> >> Allen Artificial Horizon. After nearly $2,000, the unit worked for
> >> about
> >> an hour, then rolled over and died. It came back to life several
> >> times
> >> only to die once again. No flag came up, nothing, just erroneous info
> >> that could have had dire results had I been in the clouds. The unit
> >> was
> >> returned to the avionics shop where it is being repaired--I can hardly
> >> wait.
> >>
> >> Also, the horizon came with absolutely no paperwork. No warranty
> >> details,
> >> installation info, or even a "thank you for buying our product" note.
> >> I
> >> even had to spend $35 on a connector to hook up power--I feel this
> >> should
> >> have been included.
> >>
> >> In short, Dynon, Blue Mountain, and anyone else out there, please get
> >> your
> >> product to the marketplace and give us consumers a choice. The better
> >> mousetrap must be right around the corner.
> >>
> >> Rob Miller RV-8 N262RM "Bad Cat" 40 hrs.
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> > _-
> > ======================================================================
> > _-
> > ======================================================================
> > _-
> > ======================================================================
> > _-
> > ======================================================================
> >
> >
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 15
____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 01:46:07 PM PST US
> From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: GPU contactor
>
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
<bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
>
> At 04:29 PM 1/13/2003 -0500, you wrote:
> >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Fergus Kyle" <VE3LVO@rac.ca>
> >
> >Bob,
> > I put together the Cole-Hersey ground plug assembly -
following
> >your article to the letter - and am pleased with the rigidity and
facility.
> >It goes on the outside of the battery compartment behind the portside
> >baggage area - and next to both batteries.
> > In fig3, page 3 of the article, you quote an AirSpruce cat#
> >111-140 for what I suppose to be the GP contactor. This item is no longer
in
> >the book. I am supposing it's a starter-type for greater current
capability
> >(and shorter interval), but suitable for battery charging and ship
services.
> >ACS don't give details/numbers, but I have been told I need 180A for the
> >glowplugs and 240A to crank Old Betsy (diesel). However to be certain,
could
> >you confirm the choice? If I order another of your selection, I presume
the
> >preventive diode would be internal.
> > The glowplug current is likely extended interval to achieve
best
> >temp, but am told Ol' Betsy takes only a few seconds to come to life
after
> >glowing although I don't know the coulombs. Any comment you might like to
> >make concerning the current anticipated would be most welcome.
> >Regards, Ferg
> >Europa A064
>
> That number was selected as a potentially useful part
> at the time the article was written and before we had
> any parts offerings on our website. The S701-1 contactor
> should do nicely. See:
>
> http://www.aeroelectric.com/Catalog/switch/switch.html#s701-1
> and
> http://www.aeroelectric.com/Catalog/BCcatalog.html
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 16
____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 02:13:24 PM PST US
> From: "Werner Schneider" <WernerSchneider@compuserve.com>
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: How To, engine sensors and howto mount
>
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Werner Schneider"
<WernerSchneider@compuserve.com>
>
> As I have no feedback to this I post again with a more specific subject
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Werner Schneider" <WernerSchneider@compuserve.com>
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Radio Master Switch
>
>
> > I have two other question, they (Insight) say:
> >
> > ......engine harnesses (probes) should be positioned away from
sources
> of
> > high energy, such as ignition harnesses,.....
> >
> > The wires of the probes itself are surounded with a metall shielding.
Do
> I
> > have a problem, if I bundle this wires partly together with the ignition
> > harness (same clamp to the rocker box screws)??
> >
> > The probes I have came with a set out of a crimp pin and and a socket.
> > Insight seams to have standard wires without any shield and is using
ring
> > terminals with screws to make a connection point on the way from the
> > instrument to the connector.
> >
> > My question is now, should I really cut the wires (breaking the
shielding)
> > with one of the methodes above. Or do I have a better setup, if I leave
> them
> > intact from the probe to the instrument 30 pin connector?
> >
> > If you want, I can send you the installation instruction as PDF.
> >
> > Many thanks for helping us so much with your deep knowledge!
> >
> > Kind regards
> >
> > Werner
> >
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 17
____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 02:20:49 PM PST US
> From: "Shaun Simpkins" <shauns@hevanet.com>
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: Dynon Website Offline?
>
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Shaun Simpkins"
<shauns@hevanet.com>
>
> Don't panic, I just talked with Dynon. They weren't even aware that their
> web server had
> shut down their website. They are very much open and cranking away.
> Check in again tomorrow, the problem should be resolved by then.
>
> Shaun
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 18
____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 02:24:35 PM PST US
> From: "Ross Mickey" <rmickey@ix.netcom.com>
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: Dynon Website Fine
>
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Ross Mickey"
<rmickey@ix.netcom.com>
>
> I just tried and got on fine.
>
> Ross Mickey
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Walter Casey" <mikec@caseyspm.com>
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: RCA Artificial Horizon Disappointment
>
>
> > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Walter Casey
<mikec@caseyspm.com>
> >
> > >>
> > I just tried to go to Dynon and their web site is closed.
> > http://www.dynondevelopment.com/index.html
> > Walter
> >
> >
> > >> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Rob Miller
> > >> <rmill2000@yahoo.com>
> > >>
> > >> Hi listers
> > >>
> > >> After completing some electronic installations in the "Bad Cat." I
> > >> thought I needed to express my utter disappointment with my brand new
> > >> RC
> > >> Allen Artificial Horizon. After nearly $2,000, the unit worked for
> > >> about
> > >> an hour, then rolled over and died. It came back to life several
> > >> times
> > >> only to die once again. No flag came up, nothing, just erroneous
info
> > >> that could have had dire results had I been in the clouds. The unit
> > >> was
> > >> returned to the avionics shop where it is being repaired--I can
hardly
> > >> wait.
> > >>
> > >> Also, the horizon came with absolutely no paperwork. No warranty
> > >> details,
> > >> installation info, or even a "thank you for buying our product" note.
> > >> I
> > >> even had to spend $35 on a connector to hook up power--I feel this
> > >> should
> > >> have been included.
> > >>
> > >> In short, Dynon, Blue Mountain, and anyone else out there, please get
> > >> your
> > >> product to the marketplace and give us consumers a choice. The
better
> > >> mousetrap must be right around the corner.
> > >>
> > >> Rob Miller RV-8 N262RM "Bad Cat" 40 hrs.
> > >>
> > >>
> > >
> > >
> > > _-
> > > ======================================================================
> > > _-
> > > ======================================================================
> > > _-
> > > ======================================================================
> > > _-
> > > ======================================================================
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 19
____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 03:50:44 PM PST US
> From: "Billie Lamb" <N254BL@cfl.rr.com>
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Dynon Website Fine
>
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Billie Lamb" <N254BL@cfl.rr.com>
>
> Dynon didn't work for me. Message said "Unknown Zone"
>
> Bill Lamb
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Ross Mickey" <rmickey@ix.netcom.com>
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: Dynon Website Fine
>
>
> > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Ross Mickey"
> <rmickey@ix.netcom.com>
> >
> > I just tried and got on fine.
> >
> > Ross Mickey
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Walter Casey" <mikec@caseyspm.com>
> > To: <aeroelectric-list@matronics.com>
> > Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: RCA Artificial Horizon Disappointment
> >
> >
> > > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Walter Casey
> <mikec@caseyspm.com>
> > >
> > > >>
> > > I just tried to go to Dynon and their web site is closed.
> > > http://www.dynondevelopment.com/index.html
> > > Walter
> > >
> > >
> > > >> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Rob Miller
> > > >> <rmill2000@yahoo.com>
> > > >>
> > > >> Hi listers
> > > >>
> > > >> After completing some electronic installations in the "Bad Cat." I
> > > >> thought I needed to express my utter disappointment with my brand
new
> > > >> RC
> > > >> Allen Artificial Horizon. After nearly $2,000, the unit worked for
> > > >> about
> > > >> an hour, then rolled over and died. It came back to life several
> > > >> times
> > > >> only to die once again. No flag came up, nothing, just erroneous
> info
> > > >> that could have had dire results had I been in the clouds. The
unit
> > > >> was
> > > >> returned to the avionics shop where it is being repaired--I can
> hardly
> > > >> wait.
> > > >>
> > > >> Also, the horizon came with absolutely no paperwork. No warranty
> > > >> details,
> > > >> installation info, or even a "thank you for buying our product"
note.
> > > >> I
> > > >> even had to spend $35 on a connector to hook up power--I feel this
> > > >> should
> > > >> have been included.
> > > >>
> > > >> In short, Dynon, Blue Mountain, and anyone else out there, please
get
> > > >> your
> > > >> product to the marketplace and give us consumers a choice. The
> better
> > > >> mousetrap must be right around the corner.
> > > >>
> > > >> Rob Miller RV-8 N262RM "Bad Cat" 40 hrs.
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > _-
> > > >
======================================================================
> > > > _-
> > > >
======================================================================
> > > > _-
> > > >
======================================================================
> > > > _-
> > > >
======================================================================
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 20
____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 05:58:23 PM PST US
> From: Robert McCallum <robert.mccallum2@sympatico.ca>
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: RCA Artificial Horizon Disappointment
>
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Robert McCallum
<robert.mccallum2@sympatico.ca>
>
> Walter Casey wrote:
>
> > >>
> > I just tried to go to Dynon and their web site is closed.
> > http://www.dynondevelopment.com/index.html
> > Walter
>
> Works fine for me.
>
>
> --
> Bob McC
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 21
____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 06:19:24 PM PST US
> From: Charlie and Tupper England <cengland@netdoor.com>
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: Soldering 14AWG wires w/o cold solder
> joint . . .
>
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Charlie and Tupper England
<cengland@netdoor.com>
>
> David Carter wrote:
> > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "David Carter"
<dcarter@datarecall.net>
> >
> > Bob & "KitFoxz",
> >
> > You guys are both great. I like, save, & use both of your inputs. The
best
> > was the fellow who said he went out and got a new 100W gun and was
amazed at
> > how fast the wires went together. I think my gun was on its last legs
and
> > not putting out enough heat - it did, in fact, go "poof" and die just as
I
> > finished the "cold solder joint". I'll re-try with my new Weller gun -
and
> > good tips from you guys.
> >
> > David Carter
> >
>
>
> snipped
>
> >>>>
>
> One thing I haven't seen mentioned: most solder training includes the
admonition
>
> to first prepare the joint so that mechanical integrity is supplied by the
> joint, not the solder. The solder should only supply electrical
continuity. A
> side benefit is that you will have a much easier time making a good
electrical
>
> connection with the solder.
>
> Also, I'd like to see comments from the guys with 'credentials' (I'm
limited to
>
> lots of experience) about the old 'stress riser from solder' line that
seems to
>
> surface in any electrical discussion. My experience has been that whether
you
> transition from stranded to solid at the solder or at the crimp, you still
have
>
> a stress riser. If no strain relief is supplied and/or the wire isn't held
> stable after leaving the connector, it is likely to break.
>
> Comments?
>
> Charlie
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 22
____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 06:44:48 PM PST US
> From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: Soldering 14AWG wires w/o cold solder
joint . .
> .
>
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
<bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
>
>
> >
> >
> >One thing I haven't seen mentioned: most solder training includes the
> >admonition
> >to first prepare the joint so that mechanical integrity is supplied by
the
> >joint, not the solder. The solder should only supply electrical
continuity. A
> >side benefit is that you will have a much easier time making a good
> >electrical
> >connection with the solder.
>
> Kinda, sorta true but mostly BS. It is true that solder is not as
> "structural" as the materials it commonly joins. When the notion
"make it
> mechanically strong first and electrically strong with solder later"
> was king, guys driving Model A trucks and a few horse drawn wagons
> were running wires between poles to wire up lights, railroad signals
> and later, some telephones.
>
> Nowadays, solder is both the structural -AND- electrical member in
> most electronic assemblies for holding surface mount parts to etched
> circuit boards. Solder sleeves are another good example of the dual
> role (structure/conductive) capabilities of solder.
>
> When you twist two clean wires together, they are now capable of
> conducting electrical current across the joint about as well as they
> ever can. The effects of environment would eventually degrade that
> condition if left open to atmosphere. Solder provides a gas tight
> exclusion of the environment that maintains the original quality
> of the joint within.
>
> Reasonably clean materials to be soldered will be quite cooperative
> when soldering . . . even when solder is the structural component
> of the joint, as long as you're using the material within it's
> well known limits.
>
>
> >Also, I'd like to see comments from the guys with 'credentials' (I'm
> >limited to
> >lots of experience) about the old 'stress riser from solder' line that
> >seems to
> >surface in any electrical discussion.
>
> >My experience has been that whether you
> >transition from stranded to solid at the solder or at the crimp, you
still
> >have
> >a stress riser. If no strain relief is supplied and/or the wire isn't
held
> >stable after leaving the connector, it is likely to break.
>
> See articles on terminals at:
>
> http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/rules/review.html
> and
> http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/terminal.pdf
>
> You are correct . . .
>
> Crimping a terminal on a wire makes it just as "solid" in
> the joint as solder does. Without proper support of the
> wire just outside the solid to stranded transition,
> soldered and crimped wires are both equally vulnerable
> to flexure stress and failure. That's the magic of
> a PIDG terminal . . .
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 23
____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 07:08:29 PM PST US
> From: "Harold Kovac" <kayce@sysmatrix.net>
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: RCA Artificial Horizon Disappointment
>
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Harold Kovac"
<kayce@sysmatrix.net>
>
> Hi Walter,
> I'm also interested in Dynon, just schecked their site, and they're home.
> Try again.
> Harold Kovac
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Walter Casey" <mikec@caseyspm.com>
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: RCA Artificial Horizon Disappointment
>
>
> > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Walter Casey
<mikec@caseyspm.com>
> >
> > >>
> > I just tried to go to Dynon and their web site is closed.
> > http://www.dynondevelopment.com/index.html
> > Walter
> >
> >
> > >> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Rob Miller
> > >> <rmill2000@yahoo.com>
> > >>
> > >> Hi listers
> > >>
> > >> After completing some electronic installations in the "Bad Cat." I
> > >> thought I needed to express my utter disappointment with my brand new
> > >> RC
> > >> Allen Artificial Horizon. After nearly $2,000, the unit worked for
> > >> about
> > >> an hour, then rolled over and died. It came back to life several
> > >> times
> > >> only to die once again. No flag came up, nothing, just erroneous
info
> > >> that could have had dire results had I been in the clouds. The unit
> > >> was
> > >> returned to the avionics shop where it is being repaired--I can
hardly
> > >> wait.
> > >>
> > >> Also, the horizon came with absolutely no paperwork. No warranty
> > >> details,
> > >> installation info, or even a "thank you for buying our product" note.
> > >> I
> > >> even had to spend $35 on a connector to hook up power--I feel this
> > >> should
> > >> have been included.
> > >>
> > >> In short, Dynon, Blue Mountain, and anyone else out there, please get
> > >> your
> > >> product to the marketplace and give us consumers a choice. The
better
> > >> mousetrap must be right around the corner.
> > >>
> > >> Rob Miller RV-8 N262RM "Bad Cat" 40 hrs.
> > >>
> > >>
> > >
> > >
> > > _-
> > > ======================================================================
> > > _-
> > > ======================================================================
> > > _-
> > > ======================================================================
> > > _-
> > > ======================================================================
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 2
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Fergus Kyle" <VE3LVO@rac.ca>
Bob,
"That number was selected as a potentially useful part
at the time the article was written and before we had
any parts offerings on our website. The S701-1 contactor
should do nicely. See:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Catalog/switch/switch.html#s701-1
and http://www.aeroelectric.com/Catalog/BCcatalog.html Bob . . ."
As always, many thanks for the swift reply - it was tough, but I
managed to get 8 hours' sleep before reading your answer...............
701-1 it is.
Ferg
Message 3
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|
| Subject: | Reliability of Electric Gyros? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: brucem@olypen.com
Rather than spend $8,000 for a "reliable" AI and DG, install a
vacuum system with back-up for far less. As just noted vacuum gyros
are pretty sturdy with the vacuum pump the usual failure point. A
manifold back-up vacuum source costs $400 while a standby electric
system, $2,000.
Alternatively just replace the primary vacuum pump every 500 hours.
So long as the filters are kept clean and the lines tight, a vacuum
pump should have a MTBF beyond that service time. As a last resort
partial panel will get one down safely, especially when combined
with GPS track to maintain direction. Just stay current.
Regards, Bruce
McGregor
---------------------------------------------
This message was sent using OlyPen's WebMail.
http://www.olypen.com
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Reliability of Electric Gyros? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Paul McAllister" <paul.mcallister@qia.net>
Hi All,
I painfully came to the same conclusion as Bruce. I say painful as I have
spent a good amount of my working life in the electronic engineering arena
and conceding to an inelegant mechanical solution with known failure points
is painful.
The approach I have taken is to use a vacuum system, (all sigmatek including
the pump) and I have a Navaids wing leveler. The vacuum system has a
warning light should the pump fail. The rational I am applying here is that
I should get an early enough warning to be able to rely upon the wing
leveler should I find myself with a failure in IMC.
If find devices offered by Dynon and Blue Mountain very seductive and I am
hoping by the time my vacuum system is up for replacement that these devices
will have a nice proven track record.
Just my 2 cents worth. - Paul
----- Original Message -----
From: <brucem@olypen.com>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Reliability of Electric Gyros?
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: brucem@olypen.com
>
> Rather than spend $8,000 for a "reliable" AI and DG, install a
> vacuum system with back-up for far less. As just noted vacuum gyros
> are pretty sturdy with the vacuum pump the usual failure point. A
> manifold back-up vacuum source costs $400 while a standby electric
> system, $2,000.
>
> Alternatively just replace the primary vacuum pump every 500 hours.
> So long as the filters are kept clean and the lines tight, a vacuum
> pump should have a MTBF beyond that service time. As a last resort
> partial panel will get one down safely, especially when combined
> with GPS track to maintain direction. Just stay current.
>
> Regards, Bruce
> McGregor
>
> ---------------------------------------------
> This message was sent using OlyPen's WebMail.
> http://www.olypen.com
>
>
Message 5
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21@london.edu>
Bob - a couple of queries regarding the LR-3. I am looking at Fig.Z-11
1. Pin 1. Is the battery temp sensor supplied with the LR-3? If not
what is appropriate?
2. Pin 2 is labelled 'OV PTT' & Note xx. Could you expand on these
please.
3. Does the lamp on pins 3 & 5 indicate low voltage as well as high
voltage?
That's it! Thanks, Steve.
PS One other question. Why do you show the diode array in Z-11 and only a
simple diode in Z-13 for the main bus / essential bus connection? Am I
missing something? Surely the diode in necessary and sufficient in Z-11.
Thanks again.
Message 6
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|
| Subject: | Re: Switch on a strobe line? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Phil Birkelbach" <phil@petrasoft.net>
If you go with a Nova Strobe power supply (I have the X-Pak 904) there are
connections on the power supply for just such a reason. There are two on my
904 each one controls two of the heads. These control leads are very low
current 12VDC and are designed for just what you are describing. It will
flash the Whelen strobe heads too, I have done it. Did I mention the Nova's
are much cheaper than the Whelen's.
The X-Pak also has a low power mode that drops the power requirement and
light output a little bit. It is a fairly flexible system, I think that
I'll be very happy with it. The only drawback is that the power supply is
fairly large. It's not all that heavy but it is bigger than I thought that
it would be.
Godspeed,
Phil Birkelbach - Houston Texas
RV-7 N727WB (Reserved) - Fuselage
http://www.myrv7.com
----- Original Message -----
From: <richard@riley.net>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Switch on a strobe line?
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: richard@riley.net
>
> At 10:27 AM 1/11/03 -0600, you wrote:
>
> > Why would you want to do this?
>
> My plane (a canard pusher) already has 2 nice, clear lenses just on each
> side of the nose. They currently have mounts for MR-16 bulbs, as landing
> lights. Unfortunately the amount of light they put out is (IMHP)
> inadequate. I'm going to a pair of 50 W HID's on the main gear, which
> still leaves me with these clear lenses.
>
> My thought was to put a couple of strobes behind them. But then I thought
> at night with a little moisture in the air it might be pretty annoying to
> have all that blinking directly in front of me, so, some way to switch
them
> off while leaving the wing strobes on.
>
>
Message 7
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|
| Subject: | Re: Switch on a strobe line? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: BobsV35B@aol.com
In a message dated 1/14/03 3:35:54 PM Central Standard Time,
phil@petrasoft.net writes:
> If you go with a Nova Strobe power supply (I have the X-Pak 904
Good Afternoon Phil,
Could you supply a web address for the Nova equipment?
Thanks.
Happy Skies,
Old Bob
AKA
Bob Siegfried
Ancient Aviator
Message 8
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|
| Subject: | alt field and overvoltage contactor connection |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert Dickson" <robert@thenews-journal.com>
Bob and others
I've got an internally regulated 60 amp alternator that I got from Van
delivering its output to an s701-1 overvoltage contactor. I'd like to verify
that I've got this stuff wired correctly.
The s701-1 came with a pair of diodes, with one diode running between the
two small posts and the other diode from one small post to the adjacent
5/16" stud. Figure Z-24 shows only one diode (at least that's what my
ignorant eyes see), so which side of this contactor gets the alternator
output? Also, I assume the alt field wire connects to the small post with
the diode marking on that side. Does this sound right?
Another also - the alternator I've got has a plug with three wires coming
from it - red, blue & green. I've determined from Van's accompanying
instructions that the green wire is the one I should use, but what do I do
with other two wires? Should I just cut them short and insulate them
somehow?
Any advice or information would be greatly appreciated.
Robert Dickson
RV-6A
Message 9
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|
| Subject: | Re: Switch on a strobe line? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Phil Birkelbach" <phil@petrasoft.net>
http://www.strobe.com/
Godspeed,
Phil Birkelbach - Houston Texas
RV-7 N727WB (Reserved) - Fuselage
http://www.myrv7.com
----- Original Message -----
From: <BobsV35B@aol.com>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Switch on a strobe line?
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: BobsV35B@aol.com
>
> In a message dated 1/14/03 3:35:54 PM Central Standard Time,
> phil@petrasoft.net writes:
>
> > If you go with a Nova Strobe power supply (I have the X-Pak 904
>
> Good Afternoon Phil,
>
> Could you supply a web address for the Nova equipment?
>
> Thanks.
>
> Happy Skies,
>
> Old Bob
> AKA
> Bob Siegfried
> Ancient Aviator
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 10
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|
| Subject: | Re: Switch on a strobe line? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming@sigecom.net>
Phil, with the x-pak power supply, I'm interested in knowing what actual
strobe light units you are using/attaching to the power supply.
Thanks,
Indiana Larry with 3XG
----- Original Message -----
From: "Phil Birkelbach" <phil@petrasoft.net>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Switch on a strobe line?
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Phil Birkelbach"
<phil@petrasoft.net>
>
> If you go with a Nova Strobe power supply (I have the X-Pak 904) there are
> connections on the power supply for just such a reason. There are two on
my
> 904 each one controls two of the heads. These control leads are very low
> current 12VDC and are designed for just what you are describing. It will
> flash the Whelen strobe heads too, I have done it. Did I mention the
Nova's
> are much cheaper than the Whelen's.
>
> The X-Pak also has a low power mode that drops the power requirement and
> light output a little bit. It is a fairly flexible system, I think that
> I'll be very happy with it. The only drawback is that the power supply is
> fairly large. It's not all that heavy but it is bigger than I thought
that
> it would be.
>
> Godspeed,
>
> Phil Birkelbach - Houston Texas
> RV-7 N727WB (Reserved) - Fuselage
> http://www.myrv7.com
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <richard@riley.net>
> To: <aeroelectric-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Switch on a strobe line?
>
>
> > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: richard@riley.net
> >
> > At 10:27 AM 1/11/03 -0600, you wrote:
> >
> > > Why would you want to do this?
> >
> > My plane (a canard pusher) already has 2 nice, clear lenses just on each
> > side of the nose. They currently have mounts for MR-16 bulbs, as
landing
> > lights. Unfortunately the amount of light they put out is (IMHP)
> > inadequate. I'm going to a pair of 50 W HID's on the main gear, which
> > still leaves me with these clear lenses.
> >
> > My thought was to put a couple of strobes behind them. But then I
thought
> > at night with a little moisture in the air it might be pretty annoying
to
> > have all that blinking directly in front of me, so, some way to switch
> them
> > off while leaving the wing strobes on.
> >
> >
>
>
Message 11
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|
| Subject: | Re: Connectors - its the little things that get you! |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Billie Lamb" <N254BL@cfl.rr.com>
Hi Steve,
I know you have resolved your problem, at least temporarily, but if you or
anyone else out there has the same problem I went through the same thing and
here is the info.
The Mate-n-lock 3 coductor plugs can be purchased at Digi-Key.
1-800-344-4539 or www.digikey.com
There is a minimum order price so get a friend to go in with you or plan
your purchase when you need enough treasures to make up the minimum which I
believe is $25.00.
These are Digi-key's numbers; Male plug A1429 ND
Female plug A1400 ND
Tinned Pins for 14-20 AWG
wire A1420 ND
Tinned socket " "
" " A1421 ND
Tinned Pins for 18-24 AWG
" A1422 ND
Tinned Sockets " "
" " A1423 ND
Since I needed to make up a minimum order I ordered several 2 conductor ones
also. I figured they would be good to have around for other projects.
Hope this helps someone out there.
Bill Lamb
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21@london.edu>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Connectors - its the little things that get you!
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Steve Sampson"
<SSampson.SLN21@london.edu>
>
> I am wasting a mass of time trying to accurately identify the make and
part
> number for the 3-pin plugs/sockets/pins that I think both Whelen and Nova
> use on their strobes. I think they are either AMP or Mouser (and is what
> Mouser sells made by AMP). If anyone could give me the maker & part
numbers
> for the plugs sockets m & f pins I would be grateful.
>
> Thanks so much, Steve.
>
> RV9 #90360 / wings
> N Yorks.., UK
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Connectors - its the little things that get you! |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@BowenAero.com>
I recently order several of these connectors from http://www.mouser.com.
They have a friendlier website that digikey, imo. I don't remember
seeing anything about minimums either. If there are minimums, I had no
problem meeting them -- they have so many goodies to buy. They have a
free catalog on paper or CD too.
Just another option...
-
Larry Bowen
Larry@BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
2003: The year of flight!
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On
> Behalf Of Billie Lamb
> Sent: Tuesday, January 14, 2003 7:55 PM
> To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Connectors - its the little
> things that get you!
>
>
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Billie Lamb"
> --> <N254BL@cfl.rr.com>
>
> Hi Steve,
>
> I know you have resolved your problem, at least temporarily,
> but if you or anyone else out there has the same problem I
> went through the same thing and here is the info.
>
> The Mate-n-lock 3 coductor plugs can be purchased at
> Digi-Key. 1-800-344-4539 or www.digikey.com
>
> There is a minimum order price so get a friend to go in with
> you or plan your purchase when you need enough treasures to
> make up the minimum which I believe is $25.00.
>
> These are Digi-key's numbers; Male plug A1429 ND
> Female plug A1400 ND
> Tinned Pins
> for 14-20 AWG wire A1420 ND
> Tinned socket
> " "
> " " A1421 ND
> Tinned Pins
> for 18-24 AWG
> " A1422 ND
> Tinned Sockets " "
> " " A1423 ND
>
> Since I needed to make up a minimum order I ordered several 2
> conductor ones also. I figured they would be good to have
> around for other projects. Hope this helps someone out there.
>
>
> Bill Lamb
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21@london.edu>
> To: <aeroelectric-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: Connectors - its the little
> things that get you!
>
>
> > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Steve Sampson"
> <SSampson.SLN21@london.edu>
> >
> > I am wasting a mass of time trying to accurately identify
> the make and
> part
> > number for the 3-pin plugs/sockets/pins that I think both
> Whelen and
> > Nova use on their strobes. I think they are either AMP or
> Mouser (and
> > is what Mouser sells made by AMP). If anyone could give me
> the maker &
> > part
> numbers
> > for the plugs sockets m & f pins I would be grateful.
> >
> > Thanks so much, Steve.
> >
> > RV9 #90360 / wings
> > N Yorks.., UK
> >
Message 13
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| Subject: | SEC: UNCLASSIFIED - WIRE SIZE QUESTION |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Francis, David CMDR" <David.Francis@defence.gov.au>
Bob,
Please clarify one point for me.
My three position lights will run from the one fuse and switch, the load is
2 amps each. When ganged together I understand that the circuit protection
should be for the sum of the load, 6 amps, with a bit of headroom call it a
7 amp fuse. For voltage drop I can use 20AWG wire, which can take up to
5amps load fused (7.5 for a breaker), but could see 7 amps before the fuse
blows. What wire size do I use, 20AWG based on voltage drop or up it to
18AWG based on the fuse size?
Reference used is AC43.13 Chapter 11.
Regards, David Francis, VH-ZEE.
Email: David.Francis@defence.gov.au <mailto:David.Francis@defence.gov.au>
Message 14
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|
| Subject: | Re: RCA Artificial Horizon Disappointment |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "kc" <samdacat@elp.rr.com>
Maybe I'm missing something but I just clicked on the address you provided
and the site looks fine to me.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Walter Casey" <mikec@caseyspm.com>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: RCA Artificial Horizon Disappointment
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Walter Casey <mikec@caseyspm.com>
>
> >>
> I just tried to go to Dynon and their web site is closed.
> http://www.dynondevelopment.com/index.html
> Walter
>
>
> >> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Rob Miller
> >> <rmill2000@yahoo.com>
> >>
> >> Hi listers
> >>
> >> After completing some electronic installations in the "Bad Cat." I
> >> thought I needed to express my utter disappointment with my brand new
> >> RC
> >> Allen Artificial Horizon. After nearly $2,000, the unit worked for
> >> about
> >> an hour, then rolled over and died. It came back to life several
> >> times
> >> only to die once again. No flag came up, nothing, just erroneous info
> >> that could have had dire results had I been in the clouds. The unit
> >> was
> >> returned to the avionics shop where it is being repaired--I can hardly
> >> wait.
> >>
> >> Also, the horizon came with absolutely no paperwork. No warranty
> >> details,
> >> installation info, or even a "thank you for buying our product" note.
> >> I
> >> even had to spend $35 on a connector to hook up power--I feel this
> >> should
> >> have been included.
> >>
> >> In short, Dynon, Blue Mountain, and anyone else out there, please get
> >> your
> >> product to the marketplace and give us consumers a choice. The better
> >> mousetrap must be right around the corner.
> >>
> >> Rob Miller RV-8 N262RM "Bad Cat" 40 hrs.
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> > _-
> > ======================================================================
> > _-
> > ======================================================================
> > _-
> > ======================================================================
> > _-
> > ======================================================================
> >
> >
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: SEC: UNCLASSIFIED - WIRE SIZE QUESTION |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Matt Prather <mprather@spro.net>
David:
I'll try to take a stab at it... Always make the wire big enough to
handle the
max current required to open the circuit protection. In this case, I
think you
have to make each wire size so that it won't be damaged by carrying current
large enough to pop the breaker. Even in this case where the wire is tee-ed
from the breaker, you have to look at the worst case scenario - One leg of
the tee has a blown bulb (open, 0A), and the other gets a dead short to
ground.
The side that gets shorted must be able to cary the full 7A.
BTW, I think that the 2A for each light might be a bit conservative. My
buddy had a system spec'ed the same way, and he ended up with a 10A
breaker to be able to handle 8A worth of lights. You could actually, safely
run even a bigger breaker, as long as all of the wire could match it.
Regards,
Matt Prather
N34RD
PS. Bob, I have finished my basic VariEze system, largely according
to your design and construction ideas. I have run-tested it, and everything
seems to work great. No whines, buzzes, pops, or smoke. Thanks for the
continued help.
Francis, David CMDR wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Francis, David CMDR" <David.Francis@defence.gov.au>
>
>
>Bob,
>Please clarify one point for me.
>
>My three position lights will run from the one fuse and switch, the load is
>2 amps each. When ganged together I understand that the circuit protection
>should be for the sum of the load, 6 amps, with a bit of headroom call it a
>7 amp fuse. For voltage drop I can use 20AWG wire, which can take up to
>5amps load fused (7.5 for a breaker), but could see 7 amps before the fuse
>blows. What wire size do I use, 20AWG based on voltage drop or up it to
>18AWG based on the fuse size?
>
>Reference used is AC43.13 Chapter 11.
>
>Regards, David Francis, VH-ZEE.
>Email: David.Francis@defence.gov.au <mailto:David.Francis@defence.gov.au>
>
>
Message 16
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|
| Subject: | Re: Connectors - its the little things that get you! |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Billie Lamb" <N254BL@cfl.rr.com>
Thanks Larry. Can't have too many sources. When dealing with Digi-key I
don't use the website I just call them and if I can't find the info in the
catalog I ask for a technical expert in the product I'm looking for.
Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@BowenAero.com>
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Connectors - its the little things that get
you!
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen"
<Larry@BowenAero.com>
>
> I recently order several of these connectors from http://www.mouser.com.
> They have a friendlier website that digikey, imo. I don't remember
> seeing anything about minimums either. If there are minimums, I had no
> problem meeting them -- they have so many goodies to buy. They have a
> free catalog on paper or CD too.
>
> Just another option...
>
> -
> Larry Bowen
> Larry@BowenAero.com
> http://BowenAero.com
> 2003: The year of flight!
>
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On
> > Behalf Of Billie Lamb
> > Sent: Tuesday, January 14, 2003 7:55 PM
> > To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
> > Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Connectors - its the little
> > things that get you!
> >
> >
> > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Billie Lamb"
> > --> <N254BL@cfl.rr.com>
> >
> > Hi Steve,
> >
> > I know you have resolved your problem, at least temporarily,
> > but if you or anyone else out there has the same problem I
> > went through the same thing and here is the info.
> >
> > The Mate-n-lock 3 coductor plugs can be purchased at
> > Digi-Key. 1-800-344-4539 or www.digikey.com
> >
> > There is a minimum order price so get a friend to go in with
> > you or plan your purchase when you need enough treasures to
> > make up the minimum which I believe is $25.00.
> >
> > These are Digi-key's numbers; Male plug A1429 ND
> > Female plug A1400 ND
> > Tinned Pins
> > for 14-20 AWG wire A1420 ND
> > Tinned socket
> > " "
> > " " A1421 ND
> > Tinned Pins
> > for 18-24 AWG
> > " A1422 ND
> > Tinned Sockets " "
> > " " A1423 ND
> >
> > Since I needed to make up a minimum order I ordered several 2
> > conductor ones also. I figured they would be good to have
> > around for other projects. Hope this helps someone out there.
> >
> >
> > Bill Lamb
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21@london.edu>
> > To: <aeroelectric-list@matronics.com>
> > Subject: AeroElectric-List: Connectors - its the little
> > things that get you!
> >
> >
> > > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Steve Sampson"
> > <SSampson.SLN21@london.edu>
> > >
> > > I am wasting a mass of time trying to accurately identify
> > the make and
> > part
> > > number for the 3-pin plugs/sockets/pins that I think both
> > Whelen and
> > > Nova use on their strobes. I think they are either AMP or
> > Mouser (and
> > > is what Mouser sells made by AMP). If anyone could give me
> > the maker &
> > > part
> > numbers
> > > for the plugs sockets m & f pins I would be grateful.
> > >
> > > Thanks so much, Steve.
> > >
> > > RV9 #90360 / wings
> > > N Yorks.., UK
> > >
>
>
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: SEC: UNCLASSIFIED - WIRE SIZE QUESTION |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 07:14 PM 1/14/2003 -0500, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Matt Prather <mprather@spro.net>
>
>David:
>
>I'll try to take a stab at it... Always make the wire big enough to
>handle the
>max current required to open the circuit protection. In this case, I
>think you
>have to make each wire size so that it won't be damaged by carrying current
>large enough to pop the breaker. Even in this case where the wire is tee-ed
>from the breaker, you have to look at the worst case scenario - One leg of
>the tee has a blown bulb (open, 0A), and the other gets a dead short to
>ground.
>The side that gets shorted must be able to cary the full 7A.
>
>BTW, I think that the 2A for each light might be a bit conservative. My
>buddy had a system spec'ed the same way, and he ended up with a 10A
>breaker to be able to handle 8A worth of lights. You could actually, safely
>run even a bigger breaker, as long as all of the wire could match it.
>
>Regards,
>
>Matt Prather
>N34RD
You are correct Matt . . . and David, 20AWG would be fine to wire
the lights.
Bob . . .
>PS. Bob, I have finished my basic VariEze system, largely according
>to your design and construction ideas. I have run-tested it, and everything
>seems to work great. No whines, buzzes, pops, or smoke. Thanks for the
>continued help.
Good to hear.
Message 18
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| Subject: | Battery De-Sulphating Gizmos Redux |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
While rummaging around under the lathe bench for
a piece of aluminum rod stock about a week ago, I spotted
a 110 a.h. deep discharge battery that I had stored
under there several months ago.
This battery was used to power the standby supply
for a server that used to be on a DSL line in
downtown Wichita. I lost access to the DSL line
and retrieved the server about the same time we put the
San Diego server on line to handle all the traffic for
aeroelectric.com
I'd forgotten about the battery. It was a flooded cell
technology. My heart sank when I realized that it had been
setting unattended for so long.
This battery was about 18 months old and had never seen
a significant discharge. It was floating on a 13.8 volt
charger for the duration of its service.
A voltmeter check showed less than 3 volts on the battery's
terminals . . . not good.
I put a charger on it set for 14.6 and waited. Charge current
levels would not rise above bout 2 amps for over 24 hours.
I put the Power-Pulse desulfator modules on the battery
and left the charger attached set for 14.6
A couple of days later, I load tested the battery and it
put out 100A at 8.5 volts for about 10 seconds. When I took
the load tester off, recharge current jumped up to 10A.
Came back two days later and recharge current was still
hanging around 2A . . . another load test was more encouraging,
180A for 10 seconds.
Two days later, a third load test gave me 180A again but
recharge current never dropped below 2A.
Conclusion: for this particular experiment, a totally
dead and abused battery was resurrected to the extent that
it might crank an engine on a warm day. Self-discharge
current was quite high and showed no signs of retreating.
The desulfator did seem to stir some activity back into
the battery but no where near its original capacity
(This battery load tests new at 800+ amps for over
30 seconds) and of course, self discharge currents
on the order of less than 100 mA should be expected.
If I get another chance to try this gizmo, I'll let you
all know how it comes out.
Bob . . .
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