Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:43 AM - Re: Switch Alternatives for Galls flashers (Dennis O'Connor)
2. 05:55 AM - Re: Switch Alternatives for Galls flashers (David Swartzendruber)
3. 06:02 AM - Re: fuse question (Dennis O'Connor)
4. 06:36 AM - basic wiring question (John Slade)
5. 06:38 AM - Re: fuse question (Livingston John W Civ ASC/ENFD)
6. 07:43 AM - wig-wag flashers (Gary Casey)
7. 07:51 AM - Re: Switch Alternatives for Galls flashers (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
8. 08:07 AM - Re: basic wiring question (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
9. 08:26 AM - Re: Engine sensors and how to mount (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
10. 08:48 AM - LED's (dfuss@eaze.net)
11. 09:14 AM - Re: basic wiring question (John Slade)
12. 09:20 AM - PDX WX (Jerry2DT@aol.com)
13. 09:32 AM - Re: wig-wag flashers, keep warm circuit? (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
14. 10:35 AM - Antenna Location Question (HCRV6@aol.com)
15. 10:42 AM - Re: Re: Switch Alternatives for Galls flashers (Ron Raby)
16. 10:58 AM - dimmer switches (Ron Raby)
17. 11:14 AM - Re: Antenna Location Question (Randy Pflanzer)
18. 03:17 PM - Wiring issues at the wing root (Lynwood Stagg)
19. 07:02 PM - Where should I put the ammeter? (Sam Hoskins)
20. 07:51 PM - Grounds (Sam Hoskins)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Switch Alternatives for Galls flashers |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dennis O'Connor" <doconnor@chartermi.net>
Hot rod and racing car vendors handle the illuminated rocker switches...
They also sell a panel(s) pre-populated with the switches, in various
combinations... Start with Summit Racing... Lots of others if you search...
Denny
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Phillips" <ripsteel@edge.net>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Switch Alternatives for Galls flashers
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Mark Phillips <ripsteel@edge.net>
>
> Hello agin A-list-
>
> I have been searching without luck for ANY alternative to bat-handle
> toggle switches for my panel- let's face it, when was the last time you
> plopped yer fanny down in a $60K sports car and saw bat-handles? The
> combinations of these critters that Bob shows in the Connection are
> testimony to their variety and versatility, but I'd sure like to know if
> anyone's dug up some alternatives. I would really like to find some
> illuminated rockers (or short handled toggles) with the single small LED
> (or light) indicating the circuit is energized for stuff like exterior
> lights, fuel pump, e-bus feed etc. but so far have only come up with
> some that are SPST i.e., OFF-ON, and precious little else. Have
> searched the web, Digikey, Mouser, Jap-shack, Autozone etc. with no joy.
> Mouser sells a slick little switch by Mountain Switch:
>
> http://www.mouser.com//catalog/specsheets/011115.pdf
>
> #103-R13-112LP-02R (or Y or G) that would be perfect, but yep, itsa
> SPST. This will work for fuel pump, E-bus feed, cabin blower etc, but
> my biggest problem is switches for Landing/Taxi/Wigwag- On his website,
> Bob published:
>
> http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/galls2ww.pdf
>
> using the FS-033 "Traffic Runner". My FS020 flasher just arrived
> yesterday and it looks like the same thing, just different flash timing.
> So here's the big question: Using 3 SPST switches, with a landing
> light in one wingtip and a taxi light in the other, will this work-
>
> Switch one- from main bus direct to Landing light
> Switch two- from e-bus direct to Taxi light
> Switch tre- from main bus to white and red wires on flasher, then blue
> and yellow wires from flasher to switched side of the other two switches.
>
> My biggest concern is that selecting either light without flasher will
> activate the other light THROUGH the flasher. Anyone know if this would
> work before I ruin this thing? I doubt Galls will take back one of
> their units oozing smelly stuff! (oh by the way, I AM using bat-handles
> for the mags- the starter lockout is unbeatable!!! Thanks Bob!)
>
> Thanks as always from The PossumWorks,
> Mark Phillips do not archive
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Switch Alternatives for Galls flashers |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "David Swartzendruber" <dswartzendruber@earthlink.net>
Try looking at what Eaton has to offer
http://www.commercialcontrols.eaton.com/VCBU/index.htm
David Swartzendruber
Wichita
>
> Hello agin A-list-
>
> I have been searching without luck for ANY alternative to bat-handle
> toggle switches for my panel- let's face it, when was the last time
you
> plopped yer fanny down in a $60K sports car and saw bat-handles? The
> combinations of these critters that Bob shows in the Connection are
> testimony to their variety and versatility, but I'd sure like to know
if
> anyone's dug up some alternatives. I would really like to find some
> illuminated rockers (or short handled toggles) with the single small
LED
> (or light) indicating the circuit is energized for stuff like exterior
> lights, fuel pump, e-bus feed etc.
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: fuse question |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dennis O'Connor" <doconnor@chartermi.net>
The basic cause of a fuse blow where no problem can be found is often a fuse
that is marginal in it's amp rating for the load... Every time the device
turns on with an initial current surge the fuse heats a bit more than the
designers intended, then rapidly cools after the initial surge... Over many
cycles the metal link develops oxidation cracks and it's resistance rises a
tad... This leads to even more heating with each current surge, until it
finally just fails one day... Increase the fuse size by ~20% and it will
probably never fail again...
Denny - old industrial electrician
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: fuse question
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
<bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
>
> At 10:48 AM 1/15/2003 -0500, you wrote:
> >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: JEEdmondson@aol.com
> >
> >Bob,
> >I have purchased and read your excelent book.
> >I agree with your methods but have a question.
> >
> >You say that if something causes a fuse to blow, replacing the fuse in
> >flight, or re-setting a breaker is not necessary because the problem
still
> >exists and will just blow/pop again. On more than one occasion, in autos
that
> >I have owned, I have had to replace a blown fuse that never blew again.
Dont
> >know what caused it to blow, nothing was repaired and nothing changed.
For
> >example, in a 95 ranger truck I had, the cruise control stoped working. I
> >changed the fuse and it worked fine and never blew the fuse again.
> >
> >What can cause a fuse to blow when there is no apparent problem?
>
> Happens in airplanes too . . . In airplanes, the problem is most
> likely an undersized fuse/breaker for the task. In a certified
> ship, there's precious little the po' guy can do about it. To
> fix a design flaw is a major undertaking in a certified aircraft.
> In your OBAM aircraft, you re-evaluate your fuse/breaker/wire selection
> decision and probably decided to upsize the circuit whereupon
> the nuisance tripping problem stops.
>
> There may be intermittent events to consider but only lightly.
> I had a Voyager that would occasionally pop a fuse when
> engaging the cruise control. Same fuse powered a bunch
> of panel instruments. It would do it only very occasionally
> so I just carried extra fuses. After several years, the
> stalk that mounted cruise controls cracked and required
> replacement of the assembly. Fuse never popped again.
>
> Keep in mind that these anecdotal stories are not a basis
> for modifying decisions for design and/or flight operations.
> The public is taught to fear lots of things based upon poor
> reasoning . . . and pilots are as vulnerable if not more so.
> The ways that any system can become unusable by NOT popping
> a fuse generally outnumber the ways that it fails and does
> pop a fuse by a factor of 10:1 or more.
>
> Why would it be a good idea to gather up a fist full of
> spare fuses and mount your fuse block for in-flight
> accessibility when (1) majority failures are not likely
> to open a fuse, (2) if it does open a fuse, likelihood
> of getting system back by replacing fuse is small and
> (3) while you're fiddling with systems failure analysis
> and hoping for a remedy, you are NOT BEING A PILOT?
>
> EVERY mid air between airplanes involves up to 4 pilots
> with their heads down. EVERY system in your airplane is
> subject to failure either due to normal wear-out or
> quality issues . . . if any system is highly prized for
> its ability to assist in comfortable continuation of
> flight, you'd better pack a stand-by replacement for
> it either in your flight bag or mounted to the panel.
>
> If you've got backups for things you really need,
> then the idea of in-flight fuse-fiddling becomes
> a small, virtually insignificant consideration for
> overall flight safety and comfort.
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | basic wiring question |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "John Slade" <sladerj@bellsouth.net>
Bob,
I've been trying to figure out the best wire to wire up an LED crossfeed
warning light. I wonder if you'd throw you're considerable expertise at such
a simple problem.
I have two fuel pumps, left and right, individually switched.
I have a fuel return solenoid, also individually switched.
When the solenoid is energized, the return fuel goes to the left tank.
By default, return fuel goes to the right tank.
Therefore, if I switch on the right pump fuel is pumped from the right tank
and returned to the right tank. If I switch on the left pump and the
solenoid, fuel is pumped from the left tank and returned to the left tank.
Any other combination, including both pumps on, leads to a crossfeed
condition. Obviously I could wire the solenoid to be powered automatically
from the left pump switch, but I'd like to retain the crossfeed option.
Could you suggest the best way to wire this? I'm currently using on-off-on
switches.
Regards,
John Slade.
Message 5
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Livingston John W Civ ASC/ENFD <John.Livingston@wpafb.af.mil>
Remember, fuses are primarily used to protect the wire not the device.
-----Original Message-----
From: Dennis O'Connor [mailto:doconnor@chartermi.net]
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: fuse question
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dennis O'Connor" <doconnor@chartermi.net>
The basic cause of a fuse blow where no problem can be found is often a fuse
that is marginal in it's amp rating for the load... Every time the device
turns on with an initial current surge the fuse heats a bit more than the
designers intended, then rapidly cools after the initial surge... Over many
cycles the metal link develops oxidation cracks and it's resistance rises a
tad... This leads to even more heating with each current surge, until it
finally just fails one day... Increase the fuse size by ~20% and it will
probably never fail again...
Denny - old industrial electrician
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: fuse question
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
<bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
>
> At 10:48 AM 1/15/2003 -0500, you wrote:
> >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: JEEdmondson@aol.com
> >
> >Bob,
> >I have purchased and read your excelent book.
> >I agree with your methods but have a question.
> >
> >You say that if something causes a fuse to blow, replacing the fuse in
> >flight, or re-setting a breaker is not necessary because the problem
still
> >exists and will just blow/pop again. On more than one occasion, in autos
that
> >I have owned, I have had to replace a blown fuse that never blew again.
Dont
> >know what caused it to blow, nothing was repaired and nothing changed.
For
> >example, in a 95 ranger truck I had, the cruise control stoped working. I
> >changed the fuse and it worked fine and never blew the fuse again.
> >
> >What can cause a fuse to blow when there is no apparent problem?
>
> Happens in airplanes too . . . In airplanes, the problem is most
> likely an undersized fuse/breaker for the task. In a certified
> ship, there's precious little the po' guy can do about it. To
> fix a design flaw is a major undertaking in a certified aircraft.
> In your OBAM aircraft, you re-evaluate your fuse/breaker/wire selection
> decision and probably decided to upsize the circuit whereupon
> the nuisance tripping problem stops.
>
> There may be intermittent events to consider but only lightly.
> I had a Voyager that would occasionally pop a fuse when
> engaging the cruise control. Same fuse powered a bunch
> of panel instruments. It would do it only very occasionally
> so I just carried extra fuses. After several years, the
> stalk that mounted cruise controls cracked and required
> replacement of the assembly. Fuse never popped again.
>
> Keep in mind that these anecdotal stories are not a basis
> for modifying decisions for design and/or flight operations.
> The public is taught to fear lots of things based upon poor
> reasoning . . . and pilots are as vulnerable if not more so.
> The ways that any system can become unusable by NOT popping
> a fuse generally outnumber the ways that it fails and does
> pop a fuse by a factor of 10:1 or more.
>
> Why would it be a good idea to gather up a fist full of
> spare fuses and mount your fuse block for in-flight
> accessibility when (1) majority failures are not likely
> to open a fuse, (2) if it does open a fuse, likelihood
> of getting system back by replacing fuse is small and
> (3) while you're fiddling with systems failure analysis
> and hoping for a remedy, you are NOT BEING A PILOT?
>
> EVERY mid air between airplanes involves up to 4 pilots
> with their heads down. EVERY system in your airplane is
> subject to failure either due to normal wear-out or
> quality issues . . . if any system is highly prized for
> its ability to assist in comfortable continuation of
> flight, you'd better pack a stand-by replacement for
> it either in your flight bag or mounted to the panel.
>
> If you've got backups for things you really need,
> then the idea of in-flight fuse-fiddling becomes
> a small, virtually insignificant consideration for
> overall flight safety and comfort.
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | wig-wag flashers |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Gary Casey" <glcasey@adelphia.net>
<<I've twisted B&C's arm and they've laid in a stock
of solid state flashers that will do the job. Whatever
flasher you use, you can wire it up as shown here:>>
Question: It looks like the flashers suggested turn the lamp completely off
between on cycles. Doesn't this put quite a stress on the filament,
shortening the life? I seem to recall that other commercial flashers have a
"keep-warm" feature to avoid the inrush current. True?
Gary Casey
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Switch Alternatives for Galls flashers |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 09:41 PM 1/15/2003 -0600, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Mark Phillips <ripsteel@edge.net>
>
>Hello agin A-list-
>
>I have been searching without luck for ANY alternative to bat-handle
>toggle switches for my panel- let's face it, when was the last time you
>plopped yer fanny down in a $60K sports car and saw bat-handles? The
>combinations of these critters that Bob shows in the Connection are
>testimony to their variety and versatility, but I'd sure like to know if
>anyone's dug up some alternatives. I would really like to find some
>illuminated rockers (or short handled toggles) with the single small LED
>(or light) indicating the circuit is energized for stuff like exterior
>lights, fuel pump, e-bus feed etc. but so far have only come up with
>some that are SPST i.e., OFF-ON, and precious little else. Have
>searched the web, Digikey, Mouser, Jap-shack, Autozone etc. with no joy.
>Mouser sells a slick little switch by Mountain Switch:
The full range of switch functionality in rockers is available from
Microswitch. Here's a link to the page for their TP series
rockers:
http://catalog.sensing.honeywell.com/ss.asp?FAM=tr&SORD=2148&FT_2148=22003
Bob . . .
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: basic wiring question |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 09:34 AM 1/16/2003 -0500, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "John Slade" <sladerj@bellsouth.net>
>
>Bob,
>I've been trying to figure out the best wire to wire up an LED crossfeed
>warning light. I wonder if you'd throw you're considerable expertise at such
>a simple problem.
>
>I have two fuel pumps, left and right, individually switched.
>I have a fuel return solenoid, also individually switched.
>When the solenoid is energized, the return fuel goes to the left tank.
>By default, return fuel goes to the right tank.
>
>Therefore, if I switch on the right pump fuel is pumped from the right tank
>and returned to the right tank. If I switch on the left pump and the
>solenoid, fuel is pumped from the left tank and returned to the left tank.
>
>Any other combination, including both pumps on, leads to a crossfeed
>condition. Obviously I could wire the solenoid to be powered automatically
>from the left pump switch, but I'd like to retain the crossfeed option.
>
>Could you suggest the best way to wire this? I'm currently using on-off-on
>switches.
>Regards,
>John Slade.
As I tried to understand the description of your proposed system,
I was reminded of the Smith's Aerostar and its reputation for
unplanned arrivals with the earth due engine stoppage with lots
of fuel aboard. That airplane had a very complex fuel system
that was easy to use the wrong way.
Have you worked through a operational instruction set for your
fuel system? What potential problems generate a need for more
hardware to work around perceived problems?
A few months ago, I published a drawing depicting a no-valves fuel
delivery system at http://216.55.140.222/temp/NoValve.gif
This system features a 4-port primer system with calibrated
flow to become an alterative fuel delivery system should the
primary route become disabled for any reason. Three pumps, three
switches and no valves.
This kind of system could be gussied up with some automatic
controls for transferring fuel from left to right tank for
normal ops but even with manual operations, this architecture
offers a lot of reliability with very simple controls and
an opportunity to have zero fuel plumbing fittings in the
cockpit.
I'm not suggesting that the drawing cited fits your needs
but I offer it as an illustration of a system where each
component's mission is well defined and the component total
has been minimized.
Simple is better both from the standpoint of reliability
and operability.
Bob . . .
|-------------------------------------------------------|
| The man who does not read good books has no advantage |
| over the man who cannot read them. |
| - Mark Twain |
|-------------------------------------------------------|
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Engine sensors and how to mount |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 11:12 PM 1/13/2003 +0100, you wrote:
> I have two other question, they (Insight) say:
>
> ......engine harnesses (probes) should be positioned away from sources
of
> high energy, such as ignition harnesses,.....
>
> The wires of the probes itself are surounded with a metall shielding. Do
I
> have a problem, if I bundle this wires partly together with the ignition
> harness (same clamp to the rocker box screws)??
>
> The probes I have came with a set out of a crimp pin and and a socket.
> Insight seams to have standard wires without any shield and is using ring
> terminals with screws to make a connection point on the way from the
> instrument to the connector.
>
> My question is now, should I really cut the wires (breaking the shielding)
> with one of the methodes above. Or do I have a better setup, if I leave
them
> intact from the probe to the instrument 30 pin connector?
>
> If you want, I can send you the installation instruction as PDF.
>
> Many thanks for helping us so much with your deep knowledge!
>
> Kind regards
>
> Werner
This is always a tough one to answer. I've been putting
instrumentation systems in airplanes for years where the
routing of wires was not an option . . . you run wires where
the original designers made places to run wires. I can't
recall any case where a system suffered interference problems
by adjacent wires. It's stone simple to design instrumentation
circuits that are quite immune to external noise sources.
When someone cites all the caveats and cautions from
an installation manual for some electro-whizzy, I have
to wonder if the worries are based on real concerns.
If real, the engineers who designed the installation
should be flogged with their own soldering
iron cords. Or are they the concerns of their legal
department.
I bought a cordless screwdriver last week . . . it came
with a 20 page manual divided into four sections for each
of four languages. Three pages of each section was filled
with goodies like, "Do not use this device while bathing",
and "Do not use this device while standing in water", etc.
It was a 2.5 volt device that represented no electrical
hazard in ANY situation. Nevertheless, suppliers of the
product felt compelled to adequately warn me . . .
So, without knowing a lot more about how the front end
of your system is designed, I can offer no further insight
as to the validity or importance of following instructions
to the letter. As a general rule, if a wire is called out
as shielded, I use a separate pin to bring the shield
through any connector. If it were my airplane, I'd do
the installation by routing wires in the best manner
consistent with craftsmanship and then see how the system
plays. Odds are in your favor that it's going to work
just fine.
If it doesn't you will have deduced a valuable data point
with respect to the quality of that product's engineering.
Bob . . .
Message 10
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: dfuss@eaze.net
For those considering LED's for nav lights, check out Sunbriteleds.com
General Lighting
Message 11
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| Subject: | basic wiring question |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "John Slade" <sladerj@bellsouth.net>
> a very complex fuel system that was easy to use the wrong way.
I don't see this as complex. There are only three components and three
switches.
> What potential problems generate a need for more hardware to work
around
> perceived problems?
Moving fuel from one tank to the other without realizing it.
> delivery system at http://216.55.140.222/temp/NoValve.gif
I saw it. It's nice, if you have a carb, primers, and no returns to worry
about. If there's a simpler way to handle an EFI system I'd like to know
about it.
> I'm not suggesting that the drawing cited fits your needs
> but I offer it as an illustration of a system where each
> component's mission is well defined and the component total
> has been minimized.
I hope I'm not defending what I've implemented just because I've implemented
it, but....I wanted redundant fuel systems. Given what I've got, the only
other way I know to get fuel transfer would be to add additional pump/s. I
can achieve the same purpose by flipping the return on and off. All I need
is a warning light to remind me that I'm doing that.
Thanks for you're input.
John
Message 12
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Jerry2DT@aol.com
Group...
Reporting from Portland re WX.... It is gorgeous here today. Almost CAVU!!
:-)
Jerry Cochran
In a message dated 1/15/03 11:58:38 PM,
aeroelectric-list-digest@matronics.com writes:
<<
I spoke with Kirk on another matter just after they
finished installing the system in the airplane. Kirk
told me about weather problems and said the BMA crew
retired to Portland to wait it out. I've not spoken
with him since.
This is good news indeed! I'll call Kirk tomorrow
and see if he has any nitty-gritty details to share.
Bob . . . >>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: wig-wag flashers, keep warm circuit? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 07:38 AM 1/16/2003 -0800, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Gary Casey" <glcasey@adelphia.net>
>
><<I've twisted B&C's arm and they've laid in a stock
>of solid state flashers that will do the job. Whatever
>flasher you use, you can wire it up as shown here:>>
>
>Question: It looks like the flashers suggested turn the lamp completely off
>between on cycles. Doesn't this put quite a stress on the filament,
>shortening the life? I seem to recall that other commercial flashers have a
>"keep-warm" feature to avoid the inrush current. True?
>
>Gary Casey
I wondered about this and went to the workbench to make some
measurements. I put the 'scope on a lamp/flasher combo to look
at filament inrush during the wigwag mode.
As it turns out, the cool-down time for the relatively heavy
filaments of a lamp suited for landing or taxi is long.
The killer inrush current happens only when you first turn the
lamp on for a truly COLD start. After the first event, the
filaments stayed warm enough that the inrush on each cycle
was barely 10% higher than running current . . . a trivial
concern.
That doesn't mean that a keepwarm circuit might not lengthen
lamp life under cold-vibration as discussed in the 'Connection's
chapter on lighting. Frankly, given the wealth of low cost,
halogen, high output lamps suited to this service, I'm not sure
I'd even bother to put a keepwarm system on my own airplane's
lights. Automotive head lamps demonstrate very long life
with no special needs to pamper 'em. Keepwarm is easy
to add later. Try your system without it. If you're unhappy
with lamp life, try adding the keepwarm to see if it helps.
Bob . . .
Message 14
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| Subject: | Antenna Location Question |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: HCRV6@aol.com
Bob and others, I would like to locate my comm antenna (KX-125) and
transponder antenna (GTX-320A) at the opposite rear corners of the floor in
my RV-6 just ahead of the wing spar. I understand from the RV-List that this
has been done successfully, but my concern is that the installation manuals
for both the above units state that the antenna should be a minimum of three
feet from the unit. The actual distance measured from the front panels of
the units in my preferred locations would be closer to two to two and a half
feet. So my question is, can anyone cite actual experience with an
installation like this or at least give me an educated opinion as to whether
I will encounter any problem(s) if I proceed as planned. Thanks as always
for any advice.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, starting firewall forward
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Switch Alternatives for Galls flashers |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Ron Raby" <ronr@advanceddesign.com>
Try these also
Ron Raby
N829R
http://www.carlingtech.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: Switch Alternatives for Galls flashers
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
<bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
>
> At 09:41 PM 1/15/2003 -0600, you wrote:
> >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Mark Phillips
<ripsteel@edge.net>
> >
> >Hello agin A-list-
> >
> >I have been searching without luck for ANY alternative to bat-handle
> >toggle switches for my panel- let's face it, when was the last time you
> >plopped yer fanny down in a $60K sports car and saw bat-handles? The
> >combinations of these critters that Bob shows in the Connection are
> >testimony to their variety and versatility, but I'd sure like to know if
> >anyone's dug up some alternatives. I would really like to find some
> >illuminated rockers (or short handled toggles) with the single small LED
> >(or light) indicating the circuit is energized for stuff like exterior
> >lights, fuel pump, e-bus feed etc. but so far have only come up with
> >some that are SPST i.e., OFF-ON, and precious little else. Have
> >searched the web, Digikey, Mouser, Jap-shack, Autozone etc. with no joy.
> >Mouser sells a slick little switch by Mountain Switch:
>
>
> The full range of switch functionality in rockers is available from
> Microswitch. Here's a link to the page for their TP series
> rockers:
>
> http://catalog.sensing.honeywell.com/ss.asp?FAM=tr&SORD=2148&FT_2148=22003
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
Message 16
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Ron Raby" <ronr@advanceddesign.com>
Came across these dimmer switches. They look good.
Ron Raby
N829R
http://www.carlingtech.com/products/switches/ld_series.asp
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Phillips" <ripsteel@edge.net>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Switch Alternatives for Galls flashers
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Mark Phillips <ripsteel@edge.net>
>
> Hello agin A-list-
>
> I have been searching without luck for ANY alternative to bat-handle
> toggle switches for my panel- let's face it, when was the last time you
> plopped yer fanny down in a $60K sports car and saw bat-handles? The
> combinations of these critters that Bob shows in the Connection are
> testimony to their variety and versatility, but I'd sure like to know if
> anyone's dug up some alternatives. I would really like to find some
> illuminated rockers (or short handled toggles) with the single small LED
> (or light) indicating the circuit is energized for stuff like exterior
> lights, fuel pump, e-bus feed etc. but so far have only come up with
> some that are SPST i.e., OFF-ON, and precious little else. Have
> searched the web, Digikey, Mouser, Jap-shack, Autozone etc. with no joy.
> Mouser sells a slick little switch by Mountain Switch:
>
> http://www.mouser.com//catalog/specsheets/011115.pdf
>
> #103-R13-112LP-02R (or Y or G) that would be perfect, but yep, itsa
> SPST. This will work for fuel pump, E-bus feed, cabin blower etc, but
> my biggest problem is switches for Landing/Taxi/Wigwag- On his website,
> Bob published:
>
> http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/galls2ww.pdf
>
> using the FS-033 "Traffic Runner". My FS020 flasher just arrived
> yesterday and it looks like the same thing, just different flash timing.
> So here's the big question: Using 3 SPST switches, with a landing
> light in one wingtip and a taxi light in the other, will this work-
>
> Switch one- from main bus direct to Landing light
> Switch two- from e-bus direct to Taxi light
> Switch tre- from main bus to white and red wires on flasher, then blue
> and yellow wires from flasher to switched side of the other two switches.
>
> My biggest concern is that selecting either light without flasher will
> activate the other light THROUGH the flasher. Anyone know if this would
> work before I ruin this thing? I doubt Galls will take back one of
> their units oozing smelly stuff! (oh by the way, I AM using bat-handles
> for the mags- the starter lockout is unbeatable!!! Thanks Bob!)
>
> Thanks as always from The PossumWorks,
> Mark Phillips do not archive
>
>
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Antenna Location Question |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Randy Pflanzer <F1Rocket@comcast.net>
Harry,
I installed a bent whip COMM antenna in the center of the floor just
forward of the spar and the transponder antenna in the left hand corner
just forward of the spar. This was on my RV-6. I never had a
complaint from ATC about either in over 200 hours of flying.
Randy
F1 Rocket
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/f1rocket/
----- Original Message -----
From: HCRV6@aol.com
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Antenna Location Question
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: HCRV6@aol.com
>
> Bob and others, I would like to locate my comm antenna (KX-125)
> and
> transponder antenna (GTX-320A) at the opposite rear corners of the
> floor in
> my RV-6 just ahead of the wing spar. I understand from the RV-
> List that this
> has been done successfully, but my concern is that the
> installation manuals
> for both the above units state that the antenna should be a
> minimum of three
> feet from the unit. The actual distance measured from the front
> panels of
> the units in my preferred locations would be closer to two to two
> and a half
> feet. So my question is, can anyone cite actual experience with
> an
> installation like this or at least give me an educated opinion as
> to whether
> I will encounter any problem(s) if I proceed as planned. Thanks
> as always
> for any advice.
>
> Harry Crosby
> Pleasanton, California
> RV-6, starting firewall forward
>
>
> _-
>
======================================================================_-
= - The AeroElectric-List Email Forum -
> _-
>
======================================================================_-
= !! NEWish !!
> _-
>
======================================================================_-
= List Related Information
> _-
> ======================================================================
>
>
>
>
Message 18
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| Subject: | Wiring issues at the wing root |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Lynwood Stagg" <woody6@yahoo.com>
Bob and list:
Hello. I have been lurking and reading Bob's book and trying to soak all this
great information up.
I am building and RV7A, and have some questions re: wing root wiring, connectors,
etc., and would like the feedback of the group.
I plan on mounting wings a few times, and will likely fly before painting, so straight
wire runs I don't think are a good option for me.
For pitot heat, pos. lights, and landing lights, I plan on using the knife splices
from AMP.
I am putting an Archer Wintip Nav antenna in with RG400 cable. Planned to use
a BNC at or near the wing root. Any issues about this that I should be aware
of?
Whelen wingtip strobes - I thought a mate-n-lok (like what is on the ends) at the
wing root would be acceptable. Had questions as to the shielding and radio
noise. Can I just put the shield to a pin in the connector at the root? Is
there a shielded connector that I should be using here?
AP wing servo - My understanding is several 20g and 22g (12 or so?) wires for the
Tru-trak. Servo hasn't gotten here yet. Probably a multi-pin type connector
at the root, rather than knife splices.
I would welcome any feedback, positive or negative. I am very new at this.
Thanks,
Woody Stagg
RV-7A
Future Z-14
Message 19
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| Subject: | Where should I put the ammeter? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Sam Hoskins" <shoskins@globaleyes.net>
Bob, I'm using a variation of Figure Z-11, without a starter. Where would be best
place to put the internal shunt ammeter? Since there are two feeds off the
battery, I'm a little confused.
Quickie Q-200 with the battery in the tail.
Any suggestions?
Thanks!
Sam
Message 20
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Sam Hoskins" <shoskins@globaleyes.net>
Bob, I am doing some rewiring of my Q-200 and would like to install better ground
paths and connections. I would like to use your firewall ground kit set-up
but it is really hard to access the aft side of the firewall. (It was a lot
easier 20 years ago when I originally built the plane).
What do you think about locating one groundblock on the firewall, then a connecting
cable to a ground near the panel? Here's a link to some photos of my buggy.
http://home.globaleyes.net/shoskins/n202shdetail.html
Thanks.
Sam
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