Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:33 AM - Re: Re: dimmer pin soldering (Robert Dickson)
2. 07:38 AM - Re: Re: dimmer pin soldering (Larry Bowen)
3. 01:22 PM - Thermocouple wire (richard@riley.net)
4. 02:47 PM - Re: S700-2-1 switch? (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
5. 02:51 PM - Re: Thermocouple wire (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
6. 03:08 PM - Re: battery testers REDUX (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
7. 03:15 PM - Re: S700-2-1 switch? (Dan Checkoway)
8. 05:09 PM - Re: S700-2-1 switch? (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
9. 05:42 PM - Re: S700-2-1 switch? (Dan Checkoway)
10. 06:15 PM - Strobes (Rob W M Shipley)
11. 06:38 PM - Electric fuel valves (KeithHallsten)
12. 07:02 PM - Re: Electric fuel valves (John Rourke)
13. 07:36 PM - Re: Electric fuel valves (Cy Galley)
14. 08:29 PM - Re: Re: dimmer pin soldering (Shannon Knoepflein)
15. 10:02 PM - Re: Electric fuel valves (John Rourke)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: dimmer pin soldering |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert Dickson" <robert@thenews-journal.com>
----------
>From: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@BowenAero.com>
>To: <aeroelectric-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Re: dimmer pin soldering
>Date: Sun, Jan 26, 2003, 12:30 AM
>
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@BowenAero.com>
>
> I have the TruTrak DF200VS. So far I have wired the 9-pin d-subs for
> each of the servos. It consumed a lot of wire!! The bundles are
> roughly in place, but I haven't put the 37-pin end on yet. I got the
> d-subs that accept the crimp pins at the local electrical supply place.
>
>
> -
> Larry Bowen
> Larry@BowenAero.com
> http://BowenAero.com
> 2003 - The year of flight!
You & Bob have just about convinced me to go for the crimp tool. I've got
exactly the same issue with the trutrak ahead of me. How are you handling
the wing to fuselage transition with that bundle of wires?
Robert Dickson
RV-6A electrical
do not archive
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: dimmer pin soldering |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@BowenAero.com>
All my AP wiring is contained within the fuselage. The RV-8
installation has the roll servo very near the fuse centerline with a
short arm connecting it to the weldment. I don't know why TruTrak has
different installation methods for the tandem vs. side-by-side model
RVs. There is probably a good reason.....
-
Larry Bowen
Larry@BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
2003 - The year of flight!
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On
> Behalf Of Robert Dickson
> Sent: Sunday, January 26, 2003 9:32 AM
> To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: dimmer pin soldering
>
>
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert Dickson"
> --> <robert@thenews-journal.com>
>
>
> ----------
> >From: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@BowenAero.com>
> >To: <aeroelectric-list@matronics.com>
> >Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Re: dimmer pin soldering
> >Date: Sun, Jan 26, 2003, 12:30 AM
> >
>
> > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen"
> > --> <Larry@BowenAero.com>
> >
> > I have the TruTrak DF200VS. So far I have wired the 9-pin
> d-subs for
> > each of the servos. It consumed a lot of wire!! The bundles are
> > roughly in place, but I haven't put the 37-pin end on yet.
> I got the
> > d-subs that accept the crimp pins at the local electrical supply
> > place.
> >
> >
> > -
> > Larry Bowen
> > Larry@BowenAero.com
> > http://BowenAero.com
> > 2003 - The year of flight!
>
> You & Bob have just about convinced me to go for the crimp
> tool. I've got exactly the same issue with the trutrak ahead
> of me. How are you handling the wing to fuselage transition
> with that bundle of wires?
>
> Robert Dickson
> RV-6A electrical
Message 3
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| Subject: | Thermocouple wire |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: richard@riley.net
Is there thermocouple wire on the website? I looked but didn't find it.
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: S700-2-1 switch? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 10:06 PM 1/25/2003 -0800, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
>I'm curious why B&C doesn't carry an S700-2-1 switch. Is it rare or
>expensive or both?
Never had any call for them . . . it's the same
price as a 2-3 but few designers like to put OFF
in the middle on an airplane panel.
>I'd like to modify the design as shown on the 2nd page here:
>http://www.aeroelectric.com/Catalog/lighting/WigWag.pdf
>
>Unlike that design, I want to get rid of the two 1-3 switches, and I could
>combine the Wig-Wag selector switch into a single 2-1 (ON-OFF-ON) switch to
>get this behavior:
>
>- up: both lights on
>- center: OFF
>- down: flash
How about down is OFF, center is WIG/WAG and up is
ON? You can do this with a 2-10 wired per the SECOND
drawing just added to the file at
http://216.55.140.222/articles/WigWag/WigWag.pdf
>Am I trying to cram too much into a single switch?
>
>Maybe somebody can tell me where I can get a 2-1 switch, or if there's a way
>to do it using a 2-10.
The disadvantage of this option is that you don't have
all the redundancies offered by the earlier version and you
always have to burn both lamps . . but if this floats
your boat, the new drawing shows how to do it.
Bob . . .
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Thermocouple wire |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 01:20 PM 1/26/2003 -0800, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: richard@riley.net
>
>Is there thermocouple wire on the website? I looked but didn't find it.
Used to stock it but took it out of the catalog when B&C took
it over. Had a couple hundred dollars worth of wire that sat
on shelf for several years and moved at less than 5% of inventory
per year. Check out Omega Engineering at
http://www.omega.com/toc_asp/subsectionSC.asp?subsection=H06&book=Temperature
. . . for about everything you might imagine in on-line
offerings of thermocouple wire.
Bob . . .
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: battery testers REDUX |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
>
> >Comments/Questions: I'm sorry if this is a stupid question, but when
> >the battery tester refers to "carbon pile" batteries, does that
> >mean that it DOES NOT work with lead plate (car and airplane, etc...)
> >batteries? I would think it DOES, but I want to make sure I'm not mistaken.
>
> Check the description at
>
> http://www.autometertest.com/specifications/sb5sp.htm
>
> . . . the term, "carbon pile battery tester" means
> that the tester uses a carbon pile loading device
> to test any kind of battery.
>
> A carbon pile is an old but still very useful
> type of adjustable resistor capable of handling
> a LOT of energy. The "pile" is indeed a stack of
> carbon disks or plates with electrical connections
> brought out to the ends of the stack. By adjusting
> pressure on the stack, the total resistance of
> the stack can be adjusted over a wide dynamic
> range.
>
> These were used as speed controls on electric streetcars
> in the early days of electrification of the nation.
> They are still the device of choice for an effective,
> low cost means for loading a battery for the purposes
> of testing.
>
> Here are some pictures of a rather old example of
> carbon pile rheostat . . .
>
> http://www.montagar.com/~patj/ebjagabi12.htm
Looks like I hosed the links I was trying to paste into
the piece. Here are good ones.
> The device on the right side of this picture of
> a physics experiment is a carbon pile.
>
> (Fooey . . . couldn't find it)
>
> Here's a history story about carbon pile controllers
> built by Allen Bradley . . . it also speaks of
> double-break contacts pioneered by AB which are
> now standard in all high powered contactors.
http://www.ab.com/abjournal/nov2002/departments/viewpoint/
> I was hoping to find a really good picture of
> a carbon pile rheostat but the links above were
> all I could come up with in the time I have this
> evening.
>
> There is no such thing as a carbon pile battery . . .
>
> Bob . . .
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: S700-2-1 switch? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
> Never had any call for them . . . it's the same
> price as a 2-3 but few designers like to put OFF
> in the middle on an airplane panel.
>
> ..snip..
>
> How about down is OFF, center is WIG/WAG and up is
> ON? You can do this with a 2-10 wired per the SECOND
> drawing just added to the file at
>
> http://216.55.140.222/articles/WigWag/WigWag.pdf
Hm...that still doesn't really accomplish my goal of having independent
circuit protection for each light and keeping the system down to two
components (one switch + one SSF-1).
Thanks for putting that drawing together, it's definitely a helpful
reference. Out of curiosity, what's the purpose of the full wave diode
rectifier...sorry, I'm new. 8
)
The way I want to do it with a 2-1 switch is admittedly funky with OFF in
the center, but it's the simplest solution in my opinion. So you do have
the 2-1 switch in stock for $7.50? I didn't see it on the web order form.
Thanks,
)_( Dan
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: S700-2-1 switch? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 03:09 PM 1/26/2003 -0800, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
> > Never had any call for them . . . it's the same
> > price as a 2-3 but few designers like to put OFF
> > in the middle on an airplane panel.
> >
> > ..snip..
> >
> > How about down is OFF, center is WIG/WAG and up is
> > ON? You can do this with a 2-10 wired per the SECOND
> > drawing just added to the file at
> >
> > http://216.55.140.222/articles/WigWag/WigWag.pdf
>
>Hm...that still doesn't really accomplish my goal of having independent
>circuit protection for each light and keeping the system down to two
>components (one switch + one SSF-1).
>
>Thanks for putting that drawing together, it's definitely a helpful
>reference. Out of curiosity, what's the purpose of the full wave diode
>rectifier...sorry, I'm new. 8
The rectifier keeps you from having to purchase a more expensive
switch but the 2-10 switch also drives you to a single power source.
Download the drawing again and check out the third drawing.
This shows how a four-pole switch can do what you want.
Allied Electronics has this device from Honeywell-Microswitch.
>The way I want to do it with a 2-1 switch is admittedly funky with OFF in
>the center, but it's the simplest solution in my opinion. So you do have
>the 2-1 switch in stock for $7.50? I didn't see it on the web order form.
Understand. Sorry no, B&C does not stock the 2-1 . . . you're the
first request we've had for it in 5 years. You might check
the Allied listings at www.allied-elec.com for a 2TL1-1 switch.
Bob . . .
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: S700-2-1 switch? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
> > > http://216.55.140.222/articles/WigWag/WigWag.pdf
> >
> Download the drawing again and check out the third drawing.
> This shows how a four-pole switch can do what you want.
> Allied Electronics has this device from Honeywell-Microswitch.
Perfect. Even nicer that down is OFF. Thanks much!
)_( Dan
Message 10
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Rob W M Shipley" <Rob@RobsGlass.com>
Steve Sampson wrote
"Rob - the RV9 wing tip is wider at the back than the front. Therefore the
white light in the combined unit will not be seen from directly behind. I
have gone for lights in the tips like the blue and yellow RV9 demonstrator
and have finally decided to order the horribly expensive combined
strobe/tail from Wheeln. Regards, Steve."
Rats. Oh well, just going to have to bite the bullet I suppose.
Thanks to all who gave me input on this thread.
Rob
Rob W M Shipley
RV9A N919RV Fuselage.
Message 11
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| Subject: | Electric fuel valves |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "KeithHallsten" <KeithHallsten@quiknet.com>
I'm building a Velocity, and I'm considering adding a couple of fuel shut-off valves
between the main strake fuel tanks and the small center sump tank. Because
the fuel system is entirely in the back of the airplane, it is not very convenient
to use manual or mechanical valves. So I'm looking for some reliable
3/8" electric valves.
The usual concept would probably be to use normally-open solenoid valves, but I
can imagine some (admittedly unlikely) conditions under which I might want to
close them and then shut down the electrical system. Is anyone aware of a source
of some suitable motorized valves which would stay in the last-ordered position
upon loss of electrical power?
Keith Hallsten
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Electric fuel valves |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: John Rourke <jrourke@allied-computer.com>
Are you on the Velocity Reflector list? Jim Agnew has listedthe part
number of the electric valve he used, in JC Whitney I believe (it's used
for fuel transfer in a dual-tank RV apparently). It stops in the last
position commanded.
-John Rourke
KeithHallsten wrote:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "KeithHallsten" <KeithHallsten@quiknet.com>
>
> I'm building a Velocity, and I'm considering adding a couple of fuel shut-off
valves between the main strake fuel tanks and the small center sump tank. Because
the fuel system is entirely in the back of the airplane, it is not very
convenient to use manual or mechanical valves. So I'm looking for some reliable
3/8" electric valves.
>
> The usual concept would probably be to use normally-open solenoid valves, but
I can imagine some (admittedly unlikely) conditions under which I might want
to close them and then shut down the electrical system. Is anyone aware of a
source of some suitable motorized valves which would stay in the last-ordered
position upon loss of electrical power?
>
> Keith Hallsten
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Electric fuel valves |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Cy Galley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
The Grand Champ Long Ez had electric fuel valves and he crashed with gas
because they failed him.
Cy Galley
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley@qcbc.org or experimenter@eaa.org
----- Original Message -----
From: "KeithHallsten" <KeithHallsten@quiknet.com>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Electric fuel valves
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "KeithHallsten"
<KeithHallsten@quiknet.com>
>
> I'm building a Velocity, and I'm considering adding a couple of fuel
shut-off valves between the main strake fuel tanks and the small center sump
tank. Because the fuel system is entirely in the back of the airplane, it
is not very convenient to use manual or mechanical valves. So I'm looking
for some reliable 3/8" electric valves.
>
> The usual concept would probably be to use normally-open solenoid valves,
but I can imagine some (admittedly unlikely) conditions under which I might
want to close them and then shut down the electrical system. Is anyone
aware of a source of some suitable motorized valves which would stay in the
last-ordered position upon loss of electrical power?
>
> Keith Hallsten
>
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: dimmer pin soldering |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Shannon Knoepflein" <kycshann@kyol.net>
Speaking of wiring...in my continued/final planning (its done, yeah!!!)
of my wiring harness, I calculated I will have over 3000 feet of wire in
my airplane, not including the wire in the instrument panel. This
really surprised me...quite a bit. This includes everything though,
from #2 ground to #22, from each wire in the multi-conductors to the
thermocouple wire, from the coax to all the shields. Very
interesting.....
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Larry
Bowen
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Re: dimmer pin soldering
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen"
<Larry@BowenAero.com>
I have the TruTrak DF200VS. So far I have wired the 9-pin d-subs for
each of the servos. It consumed a lot of wire!! The bundles are
roughly in place, but I haven't put the 37-pin end on yet. I got the
d-subs that accept the crimp pins at the local electrical supply place.
-
Larry Bowen
Larry@BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
2003 - The year of flight!
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On
> Behalf Of Robert Dickson
> Sent: Saturday, January 25, 2003 10:59 PM
> To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: dimmer pin soldering
>
>
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert Dickson"
> --> <robert@thenews-journal.com>
>
> Larry
> thanks for the real-world input. What kind of autopilot are
> you installing? I've got to do the plugs for a two-axis
> trutrak, but they supplied the solder-type d-sub plugs.
> Easily and cheaply replaced with crimp-type, I suppose.
>
> Robert Dickson
>
>
> ----------
> >From: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@BowenAero.com>
> >To: <aeroelectric-list@matronics.com>
> >Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Re: dimmer pin soldering
> >Date: Sat, Jan 25, 2003, 10:07 PM
> >
>
> > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen"
> > --> <Larry@BowenAero.com>
> >
> > I recently used these crimp pins and sockets from Bob to start my
> > auto-pilot wire harness. I also bought the crimp tool from him. I
> > feel I did a better job and it was more enjoyable than
> soldering. But
> > that is just my preference.
> >
> > -
> > Larry Bowen
> > Larry@BowenAero.com
> > http://BowenAero.com
> > 2003 - The year of flight!
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> > Robert L. Nuckolls, III
> > To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
> > Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: dimmer pin soldering
> >
> >
> > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
> > --> <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
> >
> > At 05:23 PM 1/25/2003 -0500, you wrote:
> >>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert Dickson"
> >><robert@thenews-journal.com>
> >>
> >>Bob & John
> >>
> >>there are no "tangs" on these pins, and they do look like the pins
> >>shown in the first jpeg listed below (s604s female pins),
> so I guess
> >>they're crimp-on pins. Too bad, actually. While they may be more
> >>user-friendly, they're certainly not wallet-friendly if I
> have to buy
> >>another $38 tool. The other d-sub's I have to deal with are
> the solder
> >>type, so it would be nice to have them all the same. The
> instructions
> >>with the dimmer still talk about soldering the pins, and
> there's still
> >>6" of heatshrink in the kit. Do I still use that?
> >
> > No.
> >
> >
> >> Also, could I just buy a solder-type d-sub female plug and forego
> >> the
> >
> >>purchase of the tool?
> >
> > Sure. Strip the wires so that when the strands just touch bottom
> > in the brass crimp cup leaving about 10-30 thousandths of an
> > inch gap between insulation and back of pin. Tin the
> wires and shake
> > off all excess. Hold the pin with some form of "helper"
> like that
> > shown in the soldering comic book. I stick a piece of
> .032" diameter
> > solder wire in the back of the pin . . . a piece just
> long enough to
> > fit inside the cavity.
> >
> > Push the tinned end of the wire into the cavity and
> hold a little
> > pressure while you touch the side of the cavity with
> the iron. As
> > the little hunk of solder melts inside, the wire will slip into
> > place. Remove heat immediately and let the joint cool.
> >
> > Yes, you can get a solder type connector at Radio Shack
> for about
> > $1.00
> >
> > If you're going to put radios in your airplane, you're almost
> > certain to encounter the d-sub connector again. All of my future
> > products will feature d-sub connector interface to
> aircraft wiring.
> > You may find that the investment in tools for the task are quite
> > cost-effective by the time you finish your airplane.
> >
> > Bob . . .
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Electric fuel valves |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: John Rourke <jrourke@allied-computer.com>
Which Grand Champ Long EZ (there have been many)? Tail number? I'm
considering putting one on myself, so I'd like to know the details.
Thanks,
-John R.
Cy Galley wrote:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Cy Galley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
>
> The Grand Champ Long Ez had electric fuel valves and he crashed with gas
> because they failed him.
>
> Cy Galley
> Editor, EAA Safety Programs
> cgalley@qcbc.org or experimenter@eaa.org
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "KeithHallsten" <KeithHallsten@quiknet.com>
> To: <aeroelectric-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: Electric fuel valves
>
>
>
>>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "KeithHallsten"
>
> <KeithHallsten@quiknet.com>
>
>>I'm building a Velocity, and I'm considering adding a couple of fuel
>
> shut-off valves between the main strake fuel tanks and the small center sump
> tank. Because the fuel system is entirely in the back of the airplane, it
> is not very convenient to use manual or mechanical valves. So I'm looking
> for some reliable 3/8" electric valves.
>
>>The usual concept would probably be to use normally-open solenoid valves,
>
> but I can imagine some (admittedly unlikely) conditions under which I might
> want to close them and then shut down the electrical system. Is anyone
> aware of a source of some suitable motorized valves which would stay in the
> last-ordered position upon loss of electrical power?
>
>>Keith Hallsten
>>
>>
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