AeroElectric-List Digest Archive

Wed 01/29/03


Total Messages Posted: 23



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 12:43 AM - For Sale: WigWag Flasher II (Bob Haan unit) (czechsix@juno.com)
     2. 05:27 AM - Re: Howto d-sub machined pins (Robert Dickson)
     3. 06:47 AM - Re: Howto d-sub machined pins (Ron Raby)
     4. 06:53 AM - Re: Position Lt and Inst Lt Switches (Matt Prather)
     5. 08:37 AM - Re: gooseneck lamp (Ross Mickey)
     6. 09:29 AM - GM alternator (Mark Means)
     7. 11:28 AM - Microair Piggyback module (Mark Phillips)
     8. 11:52 AM - Re: Microair Piggyback module (RSwanson)
     9. 11:53 AM - Re: Microair Piggyback module (John Loram)
    10. 12:30 PM - Re: Microair Piggyback module (William Yamokoski)
    11. 01:05 PM - Re: Wig-Wag switching (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
    12. 01:10 PM - Re: Position Lt and Inst Lt Switches (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
    13. 01:17 PM - Re: Microair Piggyback module (Matt Prather)
    14. 01:28 PM - Re: Position Lt and Inst Lt Switches (Jim Pack)
    15. 01:46 PM - Re: GM alternator (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
    16. 01:49 PM - Re: 10258 Sherick  (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
    17. 01:59 PM - Re: What is flex-sleeve? (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
    18. 02:18 PM - Wiring headset jacks (Werner Schneider)
    19. 02:37 PM - Wig Wag flasher (Stan Blanton)
    20. 04:29 PM - Dual battery / Dual Alternator in composite canard pusher (I-Blackler, Wayne R)
    21. 04:47 PM - Re: Wig Wag flasher (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
    22. 04:50 PM - Re: Re: Position Lt and Inst Lt Switches (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
    23. 05:54 PM - Re: Re: Position Lt and Inst Lt Switches (Jim Pack)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 12:43:00 AM PST US
    Subject: For Sale: WigWag Flasher II (Bob Haan unit)
    From: czechsix@juno.com
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: czechsix@juno.com Guys, Is anyone interested in saving a few bucks on Bob Haan's WigWag Flasher II? I purchased one a few weeks ago and changed my mind, deciding not to use it. There's nothing wrong with it and it is new in box, uninstalled. Bob takes returns but charges a 15% restocking fee. If you get it from him it will cost you $156 including shipping. If anybody wants this one before I return it to Bob, I'll let it go for $140 *including shipping* anywhere in the U.S. If you want to see the specs on it go to the website at: http://users.easystreet.com/bhaan/wigwag.pdf It's a nice solid state unit with all the features you could want...bulb warmer, LED indicators, multiple modes, etc...and can be controlled via low power switches from a stick grip if you like. --Mark Navratil Cedar Rapids, Iowa RV-8A N2D might finish someday if I could make up my mind what to install.... Do Not Archive


    Message 2


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    Time: 05:27:30 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Howto d-sub machined pins
    From: "Robert Dickson" <robert@thenews-journal.com>
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert Dickson" <robert@thenews-journal.com> what is flex-sleeve? Robert Dickson RV-6A do not archive ---------- >From: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@BowenAero.com> >To: <aeroelectric-list@matronics.com> >Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Howto d-sub machined pins >Date: Tue, Jan 28, 2003, 9:58 PM > > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@BowenAero.com> > > That what I did on my AP wiring and it worked out nice. I put 1/4" > flex-sleeve on the entire bundle. It made a 10', 7-wire bundle very > manageable and clean looking. Without it it was chaos. > > - > Larry Bowen > Larry@BowenAero.com > http://BowenAero.com > 2003 - The year of flight!


    Message 3


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    Time: 06:47:20 AM PST US
    From: "Ron Raby" <ronr@advanceddesign.com>
    Subject: Re: Howto d-sub machined pins
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Ron Raby" <ronr@advanceddesign.com> If you have an alpha wire catalog the part # is GRP-120-1/8. the last part of the # is the size 1/8, 1/4,1/2, and so on. look on there web site www.alphawire.com you may be able to find it there. look for expandable braided polyester sleeving. Also other companies make simalar product Ron Raby N829R ----- Original Message ----- From: "Robert Dickson" <robert@thenews-journal.com> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Howto d-sub machined pins > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert Dickson" <robert@thenews-journal.com> > > what is flex-sleeve? > > Robert Dickson > RV-6A > > do not archive > > ---------- > >From: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@BowenAero.com> > >To: <aeroelectric-list@matronics.com> > >Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Howto d-sub machined pins > >Date: Tue, Jan 28, 2003, 9:58 PM > > > > > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@BowenAero.com> > > > > That what I did on my AP wiring and it worked out nice. I put 1/4" > > flex-sleeve on the entire bundle. It made a 10', 7-wire bundle very > > manageable and clean looking. Without it it was chaos. > > > > - > > Larry Bowen > > Larry@BowenAero.com > > http://BowenAero.com > > 2003 - The year of flight! > >


    Message 4


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    Time: 06:53:52 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Position Lt and Inst Lt Switches
    From: "Matt Prather" <mprather@spro.net>
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Matt Prather" <mprather@spro.net> As has been discussed on the list before, for completion of flight, the position lights aren't all that important. Conversely, I think it would somewhat more inconvenient to do a night flight without your panel lights. If you lose your main source of power (alternator) I think you will want to turn off everything not necessary for continued flight. That would include your position lights. Maybe you could have a single switch, and have the panel lights and position lights being fed from two different busses. The bus that feeds your position lights (main?) could also feed other non-essential (non- endurance) consumers. Regards, Matt Prather N34RD > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Frank Smidler > <smidler@dcwi.com> > > Has anyone set up a single switch to turn on both the position lights > and the instrument lights (still two circuits)? I am thinking of doing > this with a 2-2 switch but I would like to hear of any down side to > doing it, such as a need to shut off the instrument lights when the > position lights are on. I will state that I plan on utilizing an AEC > dimmer on the instrument light circuit. This is another attempt to > simplify the instrument panel and to save space. > > While we are on the subject, I am assuming that the AEC dimmer does not > have an off function. > > Thank You > > Frank Smidler > RV-6 > >


    Message 5


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    Time: 08:37:11 AM PST US
    From: "Ross Mickey" <rmickey@ix.netcom.com>
    Subject: Re: gooseneck lamp
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Ross Mickey" <rmickey@ix.netcom.com> I installed mine between the landing gear weldment and the longeron attached to the sidewall. I manufactured a plate that sits on top of these two items. This plate has the gooseneck adapteer and dimmer attached to it. Very convienent. Ross Mickey RV6A ----- Original Message ----- From: "Robert Dickson" <robert@thenews-journal.com> Subject: AeroElectric-List: gooseneck lamp > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert Dickson" <robert@thenews-journal.com> > > I've bought one of Bob's gooseneck lights for my RV-6A, with the intention > of mounting it on the forward canopy rail, just forward of the roll bar > base. For you folks that have installed (or are considering installing) one > of these lights, does this sound like a reasonable place to put it? I've > also thought about mounting it on the forward end of the pilot's armrest. My > thought is to put it someplace where it can illuminate either the panel (in > an E bus-only situation) or a chart in my lap. Other/better ideas? > > thanks, > > Robert Dickson > RV-6A electrical


    Message 6


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    Time: 09:29:00 AM PST US
    From: "Mark Means" <rgvelocity@lmf.net>
    Subject: GM alternator
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Mark Means" <rgvelocity@lmf.net> Bob, Back to the overvoltage disconnect for my late model GM alternator (they call it a generator as it puts out DC) and is internally regulated. To recap, you advised that wiring the crowbar overvoltage device in the field circuit may or may not actually take the alternator off- line, correct? Your recommended addition of an extra circuit with a heavy duty contactor (105 amp) to disconnect the alternator output will complicate the installation but is doable. Currently I have the output going direct to the starter contactor via a fuse as per your recommendation. I suppose my question is what are the chances that (1) an overcharge condition will occur to begin with; and (2) if it does happen what are the chances that the elimination of the field voltage will not solve the problem. I suppose an alternative is to modify the alternator for use of an external voltage regulator.... how hard and/or expensive is this? Changing the alternator is not an option. Any comments or advice is welcome, thanks. Mark Means


    Message 7


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    Time: 11:28:09 AM PST US
    From: Mark Phillips <ripsteel@edge.net>
    RV-list <rv-list@matronics.com>
    Subject: Microair Piggyback module
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Mark Phillips <ripsteel@edge.net> Some time ago I saw reference to a small "box" that you could attach to the side of a Microair 760 comm radio, plug right in, and eliminate the PTT for the intercom, among other features. (can't find my links!) I thought it was on the X-air site at http://www.mcp.com.au/ but have dug around there and other Microair related sites with no joy. I also contacted MCP.COM by e-mail for info. Anybody used one of these things or know some other way to get rid of the PTT for intercom on the Microair radios? Thanks from The PossumWorks Mark do not archive


    Message 8


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    Time: 11:52:42 AM PST US
    From: RSwanson <rswan19@comcast.net>
    Subject: Re: Microair Piggyback module
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: RSwanson <rswan19@comcast.net> I remember seeing that. I do believe it was something that X-Air was selling when they were selling MicroAir radios. Their new radios don't require them, so they may no longer be available. I chose to use a Flightcom 403 to eliminate the problem. It's small, light and reasonably priced. And works well. R ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mark Phillips" <ripsteel@edge.net> Subject: AeroElectric-List: Microair Piggyback module > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Mark Phillips <ripsteel@edge.net> > > Some time ago I saw reference to a small "box" that you could attach to > the side of a Microair 760 comm radio, plug right in, and eliminate the > PTT for the intercom, among other features. (can't find my links!) I > thought it was on the X-air site at http://www.mcp.com.au/ but have dug > around there and other Microair related sites with no joy. I also > contacted MCP.COM by e-mail for info. > > Anybody used one of these things or know some other way to get rid of > the PTT for intercom on the Microair radios? > > Thanks from The PossumWorks > Mark do not archive > >


    Message 9


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    Time: 11:53:58 AM PST US
    From: John Loram <johnl@loram.org>
    Subject: Microair Piggyback module
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: John Loram <johnl@loram.org> You are probably remembering the XCOM (http://www.mcp.com.au/xcom760) intercom. -john- -----Original Message----- From: Mark Phillips [mailto:ripsteel@edge.net] Subject: AeroElectric-List: Microair Piggyback module --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Mark Phillips <ripsteel@edge.net> Some time ago I saw reference to a small "box" that you could attach to the side of a Microair 760 comm radio, plug right in, and eliminate the PTT for the intercom, among other features. (can't find my links!) I thought it was on the X-air site at http://www.mcp.com.au/ but have dug around there and other Microair related sites with no joy. I also contacted MCP.COM by e-mail for info. Anybody used one of these things or know some other way to get rid of the PTT for intercom on the Microair radios? Thanks from The PossumWorks Mark do not archive


    Message 10


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    Time: 12:30:41 PM PST US
    From: "William Yamokoski" <yamokosk@lmc.cc.mi.us>
    Subject: Re: Microair Piggyback module
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "William Yamokoski" <yamokosk@lmc.cc.mi.us> I also have this combination, with a whole bunch of radio noise to boot. Any time I throw a switch I get input in the headphones (engine off.) I've spent these cold winter weeks reading and re-reading Bob's book on the subject. Unfortunately it's too cold to stand in the hangar and experiment. One question comes to mind though. Flightcom manual calls for headphone grounds to return to the unit, which is itself grounded. I ran the headphone grounds directly to the firewall-mounted B & C groundblock. Any chance that's the culprit? Headphone and microphone jacks are mounted in a piece of angle aluminum which is mounted to my steel fuselage cage with rubber-cushioned Adel clamps. Jacks themselves are mounted with the plastic and insulated washers prescribed by Flightcom. No shielded wire was used except between the radio and intercom. I've been scratching my head about this for quite a while. Warm weather can't come soon enough. Thanks very much. Bill Yamokoski


    Message 11


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    Time: 01:05:03 PM PST US
    From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
    Subject: Re: Wig-Wag switching
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net> At 11:47 PM 1/28/2003 -0500, you wrote: >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Frank Smidler <smidler@dcwi.com> > >I have been looking at Bobs schmatics for Wig-Wag and I was wondering if >it is feasable on the third >layout to split the 4LT1-10 switch into tow 2-10 switches, one for taxi >and one for landing lights. >The idea is to be able to have both lights on, just the taxi light, >wig-wag or off with only two >switches. I prefer not to use three switches as on the first layout to >save panel room. > >As I see it only when BOTH switches are at the center will wig-wag >work. If the taxi switch is up >then it will be on, no matter what position the landing lt switch is at >and visa-versa. I came to >this conclusion based on Note #1 that states both 2 & 3 pins of the SSF-1 >flasher must be loaded to >a lamp in order for it to actually flash. > >The only reason I am looking at seperating the taxi and landing light is >that I have a tail dragging >RV-6 that I am assuming I will have to adjust the taxi light different >then the landing light. The >second assumption I am making is that I will need to turn off the landing >light on the ground since >it will be pointing up and may blind other pilots. Are these valid >assumptions? You betcha. What you propose will work. I've added the option to the collection of drawings at: http://216.55.140.222/articles/WigWag/WigWag.pdf Bob . . .


    Message 12


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    Time: 01:10:21 PM PST US
    From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
    Subject: Re: Position Lt and Inst Lt Switches
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net> At 11:56 PM 1/28/2003 -0500, you wrote: >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Frank Smidler <smidler@dcwi.com> > >Has anyone set up a single switch to turn on both the position lights and >the instrument lights >(still two circuits)? I am thinking of doing this with a 2-2 switch but I >would like to hear of any >down side to doing it, such as a need to shut off the instrument lights >when the position lights are >on. I will state that I plan on utilizing an AEC dimmer on the instrument >light circuit. This is >another attempt to simplify the instrument panel and to save space. Builders have used the 2-10 switch to control strobes and position lights. Down is OFF, mid position is STROBE, up is strobe + position lights. >While we are on the subject, I am assuming that the AEC dimmer does not >have an off function. Correct. The dimmer is designed to have the max counter-clockwise position of the dimmer pot to bias the lamps up at a voltage just below usable output (about 4v). This means that as you rotate the control, you get immediate perceived response from the action. Dimmers that go to zero volts "waste" the first few degrees of control rotation doing nothing but bringing the lamps up from zero to first visible light. There is no practical reason to include additional switching to turn the lamps OFF . . . lamp life in the keep-warm mode is about 10x the life of your airplane. See chapter on lighting. Bob . . .


    Message 13


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    Time: 01:17:29 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Microair Piggyback module
    From: "Matt Prather" <mprather@spro.net>
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Matt Prather" <mprather@spro.net> When you say headphone, are you referring to both jacks (to include the mic)? Or, this another way of asking whether you grounded the mic back to the radio, or to the firewall? If you grounded the mic to the firewall, I could see this being the problem. I would be a little surprised if the noise is coming directly from a faulty ground for the headphone (the big plug) but not the mic. From my limited experience, it seems like you are likely to pick up noise on the input to a buffered or amplified circuit. The mic side qualifies, but the headphone side does not. That's why I can see using sheilded wire on the mics, but not on the headphone. On the headphone side, the electronics are already done amplifying the signal, and noise will probably be of the low voltage/ current variety. All bets are off if the headphone amplifier doesn't use a common ground, ie, the negative headphone output needs to be grounded, instead of floating, by design. If that were the case, returning the negative lead of the headphone back to the radio would be critical. I doubt this is an issue. Interesting question. Please let us know what you find. Regards, Matt Prather N34RD > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "William Yamokoski" > <yamokosk@lmc.cc.mi.us> > > I also have this combination, with a whole bunch of radio noise to boot. > Any time I throw a switch I get input in the headphones (engine off.) > I've spent these cold winter weeks reading and re-reading Bob's book on > the subject. Unfortunately it's too cold to stand in the hangar and > experiment. One question comes to mind though. Flightcom manual > calls for headphone grounds to return to the unit, which is itself > grounded. I ran the headphone grounds directly to the firewall-mounted > B & C groundblock. Any chance that's the culprit? Headphone and > microphone jacks are mounted in a piece of angle aluminum which is > mounted to my steel fuselage cage with rubber-cushioned Adel clamps. > Jacks themselves are mounted with the plastic and insulated washers > prescribed by Flightcom. No shielded wire was used except between the > radio and intercom. > I've been scratching my head about this for quite a while. Warm > weather can't come soon enough. Thanks very much. > Bill Yamokoski > >


    Message 14


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    Time: 01:28:09 PM PST US
    From: "Jim Pack" <jpack@igs3.com>
    Subject: Re: Position Lt and Inst Lt Switches
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jim Pack" <jpack@igs3.com> Do the lamps drain battery when they are "Turned Down"? If so, I assume you would not want them on the battery bus without some additional switch? - Jim > There is no practical reason to include additional switching > to turn the lamps OFF . . . lamp life in the keep-warm mode > is about 10x the life of your airplane. See chapter on lighting. > > Bob . . . >


    Message 15


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    Time: 01:46:18 PM PST US
    From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
    Subject: Re: GM alternator
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net> At 12:26 PM 1/29/2003 -0500, you wrote: >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Mark Means" <rgvelocity@lmf.net> > >Bob, > >Back to the overvoltage disconnect for my late model GM alternator (they >call it a generator as it puts out DC) and is internally regulated. To >recap, you advised that wiring the crowbar overvoltage device in the field >circuit may or may not actually take the alternator off- line, correct? >Your recommended addition of an extra circuit with a heavy duty contactor >(105 amp) to disconnect the alternator output will complicate the >installation but is doable. Currently I have the output going direct to >the starter contactor via a fuse as per your recommendation. > >I suppose my question is what are the chances that >(1) an overcharge condition will occur to begin with; . . . it is low but NOT zero . . . > and (2) if it does happen what are the chances that the > elimination of the field voltage will not solve the problem. 100% >I suppose an alternative is to modify the alternator for use of an >external voltage regulator.... how hard and/or expensive is this? >Changing the alternator is not an option. Depends on the alternator and experience of who's doing it. B&C routinely modifies hundreds of brand new ND alternators to turn them into aircraft alternators . . . but their tooling and experience level makes this a fairly easy task . . . however, I wouldn't try it myself. I have modified some older machines with reasonable success but nature of the task can vary widely from model to model even within the same brand. I'm not familiar with your particular part, you can ask an alternator shop about the task and see if they would like to take it on. Many of my builders have gone this route over the years. I cannot recall hearing any negative feedback on the experience so this is certainly an option to consider. Bob . . .


    Message 16


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    Time: 01:49:59 PM PST US
    From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
    Subject: Re: 10258 Sherick
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net> >Hi Bob, > >Quick question on antenna ground planes: Is it acceptable for an external >COMM antenna, mounted on the belly pan of a composite fuselage (E-Glass), >to have a ground plane made from 2" wide aluminum tape, the kind you can >buy in the hardware store? See chapter on antennas in the AeroElectric Connection. The technique you describe is detailed there. >The aluminum tape seems to conform well to the slightly curved surface of >the belly pan and can be taped in sections to tape up a rather large >ground plane. It seems to be conductive on all strips when overlapped and >pressed into place. I suppose soldering a braided wire across all strips >would ensure conductivity even better. Soft aluminum tape is VERY difficult to make an electrical connection to that is also mechanically robust . . . use copper strip. Hobby shops like Hobby Lobby offer rolled, sheet copper that can be cut into strips about 1" wide and then bonded to the inside of your fuselage with something like ShoGoo or perhaps an overlayment of glass and epoxy. Bob . . .


    Message 17


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    Time: 01:59:18 PM PST US
    From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
    Subject: Re: What is flex-sleeve?
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net> At 08:26 AM 1/29/2003 -0500, you wrote: >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert Dickson" ><robert@thenews-journal.com> > >what is flex-sleeve? > >Robert Dickson >RV-6A Here are some useful examples: http://www.alphawire.com/pages/153.cfm http://www.alphawire.com/pages/154.cfm which you can buy from these folks http://www.alphawire.com/index_8.cfm Bob . . .


    Message 18


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    Time: 02:18:17 PM PST US
    From: "Werner Schneider" <wernerschneider@compuserve.com>
    Subject: Wiring headset jacks
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Werner Schneider" <wernerschneider@compuserve.com> Dear all, another question where I'm a bit uncertain, even after reading Bob's Shop Notes and comparing them with the Seminar wirebook. Maybe Bob, if you read this could you comment? Bob, in the shop note you say, that you use 3 wire shielded, and the shield itself is connected on both (?) sides to the Mic LO, did you use the 3 wire because of wiring both mic's to only 4 ports? (You used the shielding instead of one wire). I have a used Garmin 340, where I have a separate port for each mic/phone, should I use a 2wire shielded for each mic using the shield as the third wire (if yes, which contact should be wired with the shield)? Same for the phones, if I use the same approach I could use a 1wire shielded wire for the two contacts. It would save weight and money. Many thanks for your feedback Werner


    Message 19


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    Time: 02:37:04 PM PST US
    From: "Stan Blanton" <stanb@door.net>
    Subject: Wig Wag flasher
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Stan Blanton" <stanb@door.net> Bob, Do you know what the flash rate is of the wig wag unit that B&C is stocking? Thanks, Stan Blanton


    Message 20


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    Time: 04:29:34 PM PST US
    Subject: Dual battery / Dual Alternator in composite canard
    pusher
    From: "I-Blackler, Wayne R" <wayne.blackler@boeing.com>
    "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "I-Blackler, Wayne R" <wayne.blackler@boeing.com> G'Day Bob, I have a question regarding grounding - How do you suggest running the grounds for a dual battery (both 12V/17AH) / dual alternator (40A main/20A aux) (similar to Z14) setup in a single engine composite canard pusher? I have B&C fast on ground buses on the panel and the firewall, and both batteries in the nose(FYIO - I would have used one battery / two alternators but need the weight up front, and figured a battery is better than ballast). I was thinking: 1. 2AWG from Main Battery -ve to firewall fast on ground bus (5/16" brass bolt). 2. 2AWG from firewall ground bus (bolt) to engine crankcase. 3. 4AWG from Main battery -ve to instrument panel fast on ground bus (5/16" brass bolt). 4. 4AWG from Aux battery to firewall. Do I need anything further? I'd like to avoid the installation complexities of copper conduit - What would you do if designing grounds for this system? I very much appreciate your time, and forbearance. Cheers Wayne Blackler IO-360 Long EZ


    Message 21


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    Time: 04:47:04 PM PST US
    From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
    Subject: Re: Wig Wag flasher
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net> At 04:38 PM 1/29/2003 -0600, you wrote: >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Stan Blanton" <stanb@door.net> > >Bob, > >Do you know what the flash rate is of the wig wag unit that B&C is >stocking? I should have measured them while they were here. Sorry 'bout that. I would estimate each light flashes 2 times per second alternating. Bob . . .


    Message 22


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    Time: 04:50:27 PM PST US
    From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
    Subject: Re: Position Lt and Inst Lt Switches
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net> At 02:27 PM 1/29/2003 -0700, you wrote: >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jim Pack" <jpack@igs3.com> > >Do the lamps drain battery when they are "Turned Down"? If so, I assume you >would not want them on the battery bus without some additional switch? Sure . . . which configuration are you considering for system architecture? Why would you run the lighting from a battery bus? Bob . . .


    Message 23


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    Time: 05:54:07 PM PST US
    From: "Jim Pack" <jpack@igs3.com>
    Subject: Re: Position Lt and Inst Lt Switches
    --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jim Pack" <jpack@igs3.com> Dual Battery / Dual Alt configuration. Was thinking that cabin lights would be nice for night cabin/flight prep without requiring the batteries to be turned on. - Jim > > > >Do the lamps drain battery when they are "Turned Down"? If so, I assume you > >would not want them on the battery bus without some additional switch? > > Sure . . . which configuration are you considering for system > architecture? Why would you run the lighting from a > battery bus? > > Bob . . . > >




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