Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:13 PM - King connector (N2165v@aol.com)
2. 12:36 PM - Position Lt and Inst Lt Switches (Stucklen, Frederic IFC)
3. 01:35 PM - Re: Re: Position Lt and Inst Lt Switches (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
4. 02:07 PM - LVMM Wiring (Tom Parks)
5. 02:21 PM - WigWag II sold (czechsix@juno.com)
6. 02:55 PM - Right Angle BNC (DHPHKH@aol.com)
7. 03:07 PM - Re: Inst Lt Switches (Jim Pack)
8. 03:16 PM - Re: King connector (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
9. 03:20 PM - Re: LVMM Wiring (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
10. 03:34 PM - Dee is home and on the mend . . . (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
11. 03:52 PM - Re: Inst Lt Switches (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
12. 04:01 PM - Re: Right Angle BNC (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
13. 04:02 PM - landing lights (Robert Dickson)
14. 06:28 PM - Re: landing lights (Shannon Knoepflein)
15. 06:37 PM - Re: Wig-Wag switching (emrath)
16. 06:56 PM - Off line again . . . (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
17. 08:20 PM - Re: landing lights (TSaccio@aol.com)
18. 08:43 PM - Re: landing lights (Larry Bowen)
19. 09:07 PM - Re: landing lights (Kyle Boatright)
20. 11:50 PM - Narco Com 120 gears (Rick)
Message 1
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: N2165v@aol.com
I just got a price on a King 030-00101-0002 coax connector of $46. First
question is why so much? Second question would be is there a "generic"
replacement for this connector? It is the antenna connector on the KT-76C
and the KY-97A. Using RG-400 coax.
Thanks
Message 2
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| Subject: | Position Lt and Inst Lt Switches |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Stucklen, Frederic IFC" <Fred.Stucklen@UTCFuelCells.com>
Listers,
In the RV-6A I'm building, I'm using the switched NAV light voltage to
drive the panel dimmer circuit. Whenever the NAV lights are ON, the panel
dimmer circuit is active. ( The fallback to a blown NAV circuit fuse is the
cockpit flood LED's..) The NAV circuit voltage is also used to power a relay
whose contacts select fixed 12V instrument backlighting (default mode), or
dimmer circuit backlighting.
Some instruments require back lighting for sunlight operations, that is
too bright for night operations. The Electronics International engine
instruments are a good example of this requirement (and there's nothing in
their operational manual suggesting how it should be done...) Their LCD
display requires 12V backlighting in the sunlight, and a variable voltage at
night (i.e., the dimmer output).. Also, the LED's go into a dim mode when
12V is applied to an input (which is internally overridden if an alarm
condition occurs). So by tying in the backlight/LED power requirements into
the NAV circuit voltage, both modes of operation are obtained.
I used this same circuit concept on my last RV-6A. Never had a problem in
over 2000 hrs of operation......
Fred Stucklen
RV-6A
>
>Has anyone set up a single switch to turn on both the position
lights and
>the instrument lights
>(still two circuits)? I am thinking of doing this with a 2-2
switch but I
>would like to hear of any
>down side to doing it, such as a need to shut off the instrument
lights
>when the position lights are
>on. I will state that I plan on utilizing an AEC dimmer on the
instrument
>light circuit. This is
>another attempt to simplify the instrument panel and to save space.
Builders have used the 2-10 switch to control strobes and
position lights. Down is OFF, mid position is STROBE, up
is strobe + position lights.
>While we are on the subject, I am assuming that the AEC dimmer does
not
>have an off function.
Correct. The dimmer is designed to have the max
counter-clockwise
position of the dimmer pot to bias the lamps up at a voltage
just
below usable output (about 4v). This means that as you rotate
the control, you get immediate perceived response from the
action.
Dimmers that go to zero volts "waste" the first few degrees of
control rotation doing nothing but bringing the lamps up from
zero to first visible light.
There is no practical reason to include additional switching
to turn the lamps OFF . . . lamp life in the keep-warm mode
is about 10x the life of your airplane. See chapter on lighting.
Bob . . .
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Position Lt and Inst Lt Switches |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 06:53 PM 1/29/2003 -0700, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jim Pack" <jpack@igs3.com>
>
>Dual Battery / Dual Alt configuration. Was thinking that cabin lights would
>be nice for night cabin/flight prep without requiring the batteries to be
>turned on.
Okay, if those are going to be on dimmers, you'll also
need to add a switch. They're increasingly hard to find
but some potentiometers can be fitted with switches
like the old volume control switches on radios of old.
Bob . . .
Message 4
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Tom Parks" <flightwork2@msn.com>
Bob!
I've started wiring my main and aux battery contactors per your schematic Fig.
7 that came with the LVMM kit. Running a wire from the contactor to DC master
switch term 5 and term 4 to gnd will only close contractor with switch in alt
position. Contactor will not not close in the bat position. Before adding any
more wires to the switch, thought I would query whether this is normal. Have not
wired the Alt Fld breaker, fuselink and OVM-14 to the switch as yet.
regards
Tom Parks RV-7 N620CF
Message 5
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: czechsix@juno.com
Thanks to all for the great interest in the WigWag II that I posted for sale yesterday...it
is now SOLD.
Do Not Archive
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A N2D finishing...
Message 6
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: DHPHKH@aol.com
Gang,
A few months ago somebody asked about crimp-on right angle female BNC connectors.
Bob mentioned using a right angle adapter. Has anyone yet found a source
for a decent crimp-on right angle?
Dan
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Inst Lt Switches |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jim Pack" <jpack@igs3.com>
Perhaps I could just unplug the gooseneck from the socket (instead of a
switch)? Would not be good if I forget to take it out, but should work?
> >
> >Dual Battery / Dual Alt configuration. Was thinking that cabin lights
would
> >be nice for night cabin/flight prep without requiring the batteries to be
> >turned on.
>
> Okay, if those are going to be on dimmers, you'll also
> need to add a switch. They're increasingly hard to find
> but some potentiometers can be fitted with switches
> like the old volume control switches on radios of old.
>
> Bob . . .
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: King connector |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 03:12 PM 1/30/2003 -0500, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: N2165v@aol.com
>
>I just got a price on a King 030-00101-0002 coax connector of $46. First
>question is why so much? Second question would be is there a "generic"
>replacement for this connector? It is the antenna connector on the KT-76C
>and the KY-97A. Using RG-400 coax.
>Thanks
Most connectors offered with "certified" radios
are generic to some commercial catalog. Unfortunately,
the FAA frowns on the idea of buying a connector
from the original manufacturer under their part
number . . . gotta be sure you get the "right"
part. Hence, manufacturers put their numbers on
lots of generic parts at multiples of what they're
really worth. At one time, Cessna had tens of thousands
of dollars tied up in lowly U/G-21 coax connectors
stocked in 8-10 different places under a manufacturer's
part number.
I presume you're talking about a blind-mate tray
connector that fastens to the tray with a snap
ring and solders onto the coax. The tray connector
mates with radio connector as the radio seats fully
in the tray.
I poked around on the 'net and couldn't find these
in the time I had to look. Seems like they were a
U/G-1085 . . or some such 4-digit callout. Call
an avionics shop and see if they can help you. I think
this is the same connector used on ARC's tray
mounted radios too.
I'll check some of my info resources next week.
Bob . . .
Message 9
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 04:06 PM 1/30/2003 -0600, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Tom Parks" <flightwork2@msn.com>
>
>Bob!
>
>I've started wiring my main and aux battery contactors per your schematic
>Fig. 7 that came with the LVMM kit. Running a wire from the contactor to
>DC master switch term 5 and term 4 to gnd will only close contractor with
>switch in alt position. Contactor will not not close in the bat position.
>Before adding any more wires to the switch, thought I would query whether
>this is normal. Have not wired the Alt Fld breaker, fuselink and OVM-14 to
>the switch as yet.
Hmmm. . . numbering of the switch pins is
different on various schematics depending on
whether I was referring to a Microswitch 2TL1-10
or a AEC S700-2-10 switch. Looking into the back
of the switch, the columns are swapped. Try
moving the contactor leads to the other side of the
switch . . . sounds like they're wired to the
side that is sequenced to control the ALT FIELD
line.
Bob . . .
Message 10
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| Subject: | Dee is home and on the mend . . . |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
Brought her home just before lunch today.
Now, I've got about 36 hours to try and convert back to a
"1st shift person" for the seminar scheduled next
Saturday in Nashville!
Bob . . .
|-------------------------------------------------------|
| The man who does not read good books has no advantage |
| over the man who cannot read them. |
| - Mark Twain |
|-------------------------------------------------------|
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Inst Lt Switches |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 04:07 PM 1/30/2003 -0700, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jim Pack" <jpack@igs3.com>
>
>Perhaps I could just unplug the gooseneck from the socket (instead of a
>switch)? Would not be good if I forget to take it out, but should work?
You could do that too . . .
Bob . . .
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Right Angle BNC |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 05:53 PM 1/30/2003 -0500, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: DHPHKH@aol.com
>
>Gang,
> A few months ago somebody asked about crimp-on right angle female BNC
> connectors. Bob mentioned using a right angle adapter. Has anyone yet
> found a source for a decent crimp-on right angle?
There are a number of sources . . . but none that
I know of that will install with the tool we sell.
AMP 225974-2 is a suitable part that sells for $22.00
qty of 1. The hand tool that installs it is about $400.00
If it were my airplane, I'd install a cable male connector,
mate it with a right angle adapter and shrink a chunk
of double walled tubing over the interface to make it
permanent. . . . the po' boy's right angle connector.
Bob . .
Message 13
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert Dickson" <robert@thenews-journal.com>
I've installed the RMD wingtip landing lights on my RV. These use H7604 50w
bulbs. I would like to wire these to one switch, but I've got a couple of
issues.
First, RMD supplied #12 wire for these lights, which seems too large for the
wattage and length of run.
Second, in searching the RV list archive for what other folks have done for
wiring these lights, I came across the following post from Bob (Aug 99):
If you're going to have a landing light in each
wing, you need a breaker/fuse and switch for EACH light.
50 watt bulbs draw 4.5 amps, 100 watt bulbs 9 amps, 150
watt bulbs draw 13.5 amps. Wire sizes and breakers
purely for current carrying considerations are 20AWG/7A;
18AWG/10A, and 14AWG/15A for each lamp.
In a metal airplane, voltage drops in wires selected
for current rating alone are generally insignificant.
You need to be looking at runs of 20+ feet before I'd
be concerned about voltage drops.
So, do I really need to have a switch for each light? If I don't, would
14awg wire and a 10amp fuse be appropriate for the 2 light circuit?
thanks,
Robert Dickson
RV-6A electrical
Message 14
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Shannon Knoepflein" <kycshann@kyol.net>
Interesting. I plan a 75W taxi light and a 75W landing light on each
gear door, so 2 light per side, 4 total. If I understand correctly, you
are saying I should have 4 breakers and 4 switches? I don't understand
why, so please "learn" me :)
If you're going to have a landing light in each
wing, you need a breaker/fuse and switch for EACH light.
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Wig-Wag switching |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: emrath <emrath@comcast.net>
Bob, this is getting interesting. On drawing #5, both switches need to be in
the middle position to turn the wigwag on. Instead, how about taking
circuit shown on drawing #4 and add a Switch downstream of the the 4TL1-10
device to switch either the right or left light off (use pin 2 and 5 as
powered inputs). That way one could set up one light to be the taxi and one
to be the landing light if desired on a tail dragger or one could just shut
off one of the landing lights so as not to blind observers or other pilots
while in ground ops? What kind of switch could one use, S700-2-10
(right-on-left or taxi-on-right)? Seems like this switch could be left "on"
unless one has to turn off one of the lights.
Marty in Brentwood, TN
Time: 01:05:03 PM PST US
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Wig-Wag switching
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
--> <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 11:47 PM 1/28/2003 -0500, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Frank Smidler
>--> <smidler@dcwi.com>
>
>I have been looking at Bobs schmatics for Wig-Wag and I was wondering
>if
>it is feasable on the third
>layout to split the 4LT1-10 switch into tow 2-10 switches, one for taxi
>and one for landing lights.
>The idea is to be able to have both lights on, just the taxi light,
>wig-wag or off with only two
>switches. I prefer not to use three switches as on the first layout to
>save panel room.
>
>As I see it only when BOTH switches are at the center will wig-wag
>work. If the taxi switch is up
>then it will be on, no matter what position the landing lt switch is at
>and visa-versa. I came to
>this conclusion based on Note #1 that states both 2 & 3 pins of the SSF-1
>flasher must be loaded to
>a lamp in order for it to actually flash.
>
>The only reason I am looking at seperating the taxi and landing light
>is
>that I have a tail dragging
>RV-6 that I am assuming I will have to adjust the taxi light different
>then the landing light. The
>second assumption I am making is that I will need to turn off the landing
>light on the ground since
>it will be pointing up and may blind other pilots. Are these valid
>assumptions?
You betcha. What you propose will work. I've added the option
to the collection of drawings at:
http://216.55.140.222/articles/WigWag/WigWag.pdf
Bob . . .
Message 16
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| Subject: | Off line again . . . |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
This time for something more enjoyable. Will be hopping
on the big iron bird bound for Nashville in the morning.
Be back on the list Monday morning.
Bob . . .
|-------------------------------------------------------|
| The man who does not read good books has no advantage |
| over the man who cannot read them. |
| - Mark Twain |
|-------------------------------------------------------|
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: landing lights |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: TSaccio@aol.com
I'm installing Whalen strobes and landing lights on a Seawind that I'm
building. Do all wires including the ones going to the landing lights have to
be shielded. I can't seam to find any information on this. Tom Saccio
Message 18
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@BowenAero.com>
Just the strobes, from the power supply to the light. At least that's
my understanding.
-
Larry Bowen
RV-8 electrical
Larry@BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
2003 - The year of flight!
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On
> Behalf Of TSaccio@aol.com
> Sent: Thursday, January 30, 2003 11:20 PM
> To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: landing lights
>
>
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: TSaccio@aol.com
>
> I'm installing Whalen strobes and landing lights on a Seawind
> that I'm
> building. Do all wires including the ones going to the
> landing lights have to
> be shielded. I can't seam to find any information on this. Tom Saccio
>
>
> ==========
> Matronics Forums.
> ==========
> List members.
> ==========
> ==========
>
>
>
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: landing lights |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright" <kyle.boatright@adelphia.net>
Neither landing light or position light wires need to be shielded. Whelen
supplies a 3 conductor wire that shields the wires for the position lights
and strobe, but you only really need to shield the strobe wires.
----- Original Message -----
From: <TSaccio@aol.com>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: landing lights
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: TSaccio@aol.com
>
> I'm installing Whalen strobes and landing lights on a Seawind that I'm
> building. Do all wires including the ones going to the landing lights have
to
> be shielded. I can't seam to find any information on this. Tom Saccio
>
>
Message 20
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| Subject: | Narco Com 120 gears |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Rick <rick.pitcher@verizon.net>
I need to replace one of the little plastic gears in the frequency
selector mechanism on a Narco Com 120.I called the factory and they want
me to ship them the radio and $400 or $500.
It's obviously not worth spending that much on a 20 year old radio. Is
there another source for these gears?
Rick Pitcher
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