Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:25 AM - King connector (N2165v@aol.com)
2. 08:04 AM - KX125 wireing (Cliff Shaw)
3. 10:03 AM - Re: Right Angle BNC (Bernie_C@erols.com)
4. 11:49 AM - RF right angle (Fergus Kyle)
5. 05:10 PM - Switches and AC (Rob W M Shipley)
6. 06:27 PM - Re: landing lights (Robert Dickson)
7. 06:57 PM - Bar Lamps from MPJA (Mark Phillips)
Message 1
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: N2165v@aol.com
Gulf Coast Avionics sells a compatible coax connector (p/n 9-30-10 tray mount
connector) for $20.
Thanks
Message 2
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Cliff Shaw" <flyinggpa@attbi.com>
All
I am wiring my Panel. My Bendix/King KX125 has three output lines labeled
"AUX AUDIO 1 , 2 , 3 ". What are they used for? I am trying to figure out
the audio wiring of this thing.
Cliff Shaw
1041 Euclid ave.
Edmonds WA 98020
(425) 776-5555
Europa XS N229WC "Wile E Coyote"
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Right Angle BNC |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Bernie_C@erols.com
What about these guys??
<<http://www.pasternack.com/catalog.asp?RecNo=0&partNum=pe4345>>
<<http://www.pasternack.com/catalog.asp?RecNo=0&partNum=pe4053>>
The 4053 is solder. No special tools.
Bernie C.
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III" wrote:
>
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
>
> At 05:53 PM 1/30/2003 -0500, you wrote:
> >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: DHPHKH@aol.com
> >
> >Gang,
> > A few months ago somebody asked about crimp-on right angle female BNC
> > connectors. Bob mentioned using a right angle adapter. Has anyone yet
> > found a source for a decent crimp-on right angle?
>
> There are a number of sources . . . but none that
> I know of that will install with the tool we sell.
> AMP 225974-2 is a suitable part that sells for $22.00
> qty of 1. The hand tool that installs it is about $400.00
>
> If it were my airplane, I'd install a cable male connector,
> mate it with a right angle adapter and shrink a chunk
> of double walled tubing over the interface to make it
> permanent. . . . the po' boy's right angle connector.
>
> Bob . .
Message 4
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Fergus Kyle" <VE3LVO@rac.ca>
Rick,
"I've done that in the past, and it's seemed to work fine for me. But
someone who *says* that they know RF tells me that you lose a lot of energy
out the angle unless it's a super special very expensive right angle that
has a little horseshoe magnet in it. Any truth to that? "
Maybe that little horseshoe is an Omega sign - ohms impedance?
The ideal is 50ohms for RF.
I have one marked "CBWU UG306A". I think that's OK for impedance
but beware of rim-etched "CARO UG306/U" as no record of producer.
Not a horseshoe in a barrel, nor could I find a crimp version.
These are all twist&lock for RG58 coaxial cable.
Good Luck,
Ferg
Message 5
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Rob W M Shipley" <Rob@RobsGlass.com>
Hey Bob,
I saw this in the RV digest and would like your comments.
Subject: RV-List: Re: [ExperimentalAvionics] off topic request
Hi.. I agree completely with what Marshall just said about using a relay to
handle current, but would add that believing the rating of a switch can be
VERY hazardous to you health. I rode a "quiet" 2 cycle engine to the ground
twice before realizing that the Mag switch that was rated at 20Amps AC is
only good for about 1/10th that in DC. It arched across the contacts and
shut the magneto off by grounding it. If you do go with a switch and it
operates on DC, make sure the switch has the current rating you need for DC
Hope this helps someone avoid my impromptu soaring lession
Ron DeWees Atlanta, Ga
----- Original Message ----- From: "Marshall M. Dues" <mmdues@hal-pc.org
> For switching rather high current (10 to 20 amp) circuits, it is better
> to use a lesser rated switch to control a small Bosch type relay that
> uses 30 to 40 amp contacts to turn on the heavier loads, like landing
> lights, etc. These little relays are popular in most German vehicles.
> They are available at most auto parts stores. I used them exclusively
> to turn on halogen type landing and taxi lights on my RV-6. Never had a
> failure in 675 hours. Switching heavy currents through a toggle switch
> makes for relatively short life of the switch. The contacts arc each
> time they make and break, and soon they either weld themselves shut, or
> simply carbon themselves over and won't make next time they are turned
> on.
> Marshall Dues Katy, Texas RV-6 N243MD
It sounds like a way of ontroducing more failure points if the available switches
are actually up to snuff.
How's Dee? Making good progress I hope.
Rob
Rob W M Shipley
RV9A N919RV Fuselage.
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: landing lights |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert Dickson" <robert@thenews-journal.com>
Bernie
thanks for the reply. I think you're right about a larger fuse being needed.
I've got another question, however.
Given that I'm going to run the two landing lights to one switch using 14awg
wires, is it ok to power that switch using 14awg or should I bump that part
of the run from the main bus(very short) to a larger size? The answer to
this is probably in the Connection, but I'm just not sure what's going on
with a two-branch circuit like this.
Robert Dickson
RV-6A electrical
----------
>From: deltaB@erols.com
>To: robert@thenews-journal.com
>Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: landing lights
>Date: Fri, Jan 31, 2003, 7:22 PM
>
> I didn't see any replies to your question on this thread.
>
> You still only need to protect the 12 gauge wire with a single
> fuse. I'm sure you will find a rating that is low enough to protect
> the wire, yet high enough not to nuisance trip on the 100 watt
> load. (15 amps if the numbers below are to be believed) The
> proponents of the independent fusing/switching are allowing for
> failures to affect one light without the other. A 10 amp fuse may
> be a little close to the inrush current of the 9 amp load to use.
>
> Bernie C.
>
> Robert Dickson wrote:
>>
>> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert Dickson"
> <robert@thenews-journal.com>
>>
>> I've installed the RMD wingtip landing lights on my RV. These use H7604 50w
>> bulbs. I would like to wire these to one switch, but I've got a couple of
>> issues.
>> First, RMD supplied #12 wire for these lights, which seems too large for the
>> wattage and length of run.
>> Second, in searching the RV list archive for what other folks have done for
>> wiring these lights, I came across the following post from Bob (Aug 99):
>>
>> If you're going to have a landing light in each
>> wing, you need a breaker/fuse and switch for EACH light.
>> 50 watt bulbs draw 4.5 amps, 100 watt bulbs 9 amps, 150
>> watt bulbs draw 13.5 amps. Wire sizes and breakers
>> purely for current carrying considerations are 20AWG/7A;
>> 18AWG/10A, and 14AWG/15A for each lamp.
>>
>> In a metal airplane, voltage drops in wires selected
>> for current rating alone are generally insignificant.
>> You need to be looking at runs of 20+ feet before I'd
>> be concerned about voltage drops.
>>
>> So, do I really need to have a switch for each light? If I don't, would
>> 14awg wire and a 10amp fuse be appropriate for the 2 light circuit?
>>
>> thanks,
>>
>> Robert Dickson
>> RV-6A electrical
>>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Bar Lamps from MPJA |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Mark Phillips <ripsteel@edge.net>
Here's a link to the bar lamps I purchased from MPJA last year after
seeing a message to the A-list from Jim Foerster about them. (thanks for
the tip, Jim!) They are apparently still available and are rectangular,
modular units that have grooves on the top and sides so they can be
"stacked" together, as many as you like, and have 2 parallel bulbs in
each- for details see:
http://www.mpja.com/product.asp?product=5072+LA
I am using these to assemble a "poor mans" annunciator and they may work
out just fine- for fifteen cents each, I bought 50 of 'em! I measured
them at about 160ma @14VDC, or about 2.25 watts (if my math is
correct!). Not assembled yet, but we'll see...
From The PossumWorks in TN
Mark - Jim's original message below:
For those who want to build their own annunciator lights, the nicest
system I have seen uses 1.5in by 3/8 in bar lights, which have two 12
volt bulbs, draw 180 ma, and have stacking tongue and groove slots so
that they can be stacked horizontally, vertically, or variations of
these. A colored plastic sheet with lettering can be run through your
laser printer to make whatever lable you want, and because the lighted
area is 1.5 by 1/4, the lable can have 6 to 10 letters. The lamps glow
at a medium intensity, suggesting that they should be good for thousands
of hours. The price? 20 cents each, 15 cents for 10 or more. I got 30 of
them. see http://www.mpja.com/product.asp?product5072+LA for the
picture. These use 0.187 faston tabs.
Jim Foerster
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