Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 08:58 AM - Re: KX125 wireing (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
2. 08:59 AM - Re: Right Angle BNC (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
3. 09:01 AM - Re: Coaxial cables (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
4. 09:02 AM - Re: Right Angle BNC (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
5. 09:05 AM - Re: Switches and AC (Shannon Knoepflein)
6. 09:14 AM - Wiring headset jacks 2nd try (Werner Schneider)
7. 09:39 AM - Re: Dual Alt, Dual Battery Installation (PTACKABURY@aol.com)
8. 09:57 AM - Re: 10265 Sherick (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
9. 09:59 AM - Re: Low Cost Ground Power Jack ..... (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
10. 10:00 AM - Re: Switches and AC (Walter Casey)
11. 10:03 AM - PTT switches (Mark A. Wood)
12. 10:15 AM - Re: 10267 Strickland (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
13. 10:16 AM - Re: Switches and AC (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
14. 10:22 AM - LEDs (Steve Sampson)
15. 10:52 AM - Re: Dual battery / Dual Alternator in composite canard pusher (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
16. 11:07 AM - Re: Switches and AC (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
17. 11:10 AM - Re: Dual Alt, Dual Battery Installation (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
18. 11:23 AM - Re: Wiring headset jacks 2nd try (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
19. 11:25 AM - Re: PTT switches (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
20. 11:28 AM - Re: LEDs (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
21. 11:44 AM - Re: Switches and AC (Shannon Knoepflein)
22. 12:06 PM - switch keyway question (Dan Checkoway)
23. 12:20 PM - Re: Switches and AC (William Shaffer)
24. 12:20 PM - Re: Switches and AC (Shannon Knoepflein)
25. 12:43 PM - Re: Dual Alt, Dual Battery Installation (PTACKABURY@aol.com)
26. 12:53 PM - Re: Switches and AC (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
27. 01:01 PM - Re: Switches and AC (Jim Jewell)
28. 01:05 PM - Re: switch keyway question (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
29. 01:06 PM - Re: switch keyway question (Scot Stambaugh)
30. 01:16 PM - Re: Dual Alt, Dual Battery Installation (Shannon Knoepflein)
31. 01:21 PM - Re: Dual Alt, Dual Battery Installation (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
32. 03:43 PM - Strobes (frequent flyer)
33. 03:57 PM - Re: Strobes (Scot Stambaugh)
34. 04:05 PM - Strobes (frequent flyer)
35. 04:12 PM - Re: switch keyway question (Werner Schneider)
36. 04:25 PM - Re: Wiring headset jacks 2nd try (Werner Schneider)
37. 04:27 PM - Re: Strobes (Scot Stambaugh)
38. 04:53 PM - Re: cycling voltmeter and ammeter (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
39. 06:13 PM - DC-DC Converter or AC Inverter w/ Standby ADI???? (Brian & Debi Shannon)
40. 06:20 PM - Re: Right Angle BNC (Kevin Horton)
41. 06:59 PM - Re: LEDs (Jerzy Krasinski)
42. 07:53 PM - ABMM (Tom Parks)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: KX125 wireing |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 08:05 AM 2/1/2003 -0800, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Cliff Shaw" <flyinggpa@attbi.com>
>
>All
>
>I am wiring my Panel. My Bendix/King KX125 has three output lines labeled
>"AUX AUDIO 1 , 2 , 3 ". What are they used for? I am trying to figure out
>the audio wiring of this thing.
>
>
>Cliff Shaw
>1041 Euclid ave.
>Edmonds WA 98020
>(425) 776-5555
> Europa XS N229WC "Wile E Coyote"
Many nav/coms of years gone by had auxiliary audio INPUTS
to their audio amplifiers that could be used to mix outputs
from other sources together into the same headphone/speaker
signals. I suspect that's what these are.
Bob . . .
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Right Angle BNC |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
>
> > If it were my airplane, I'd install a cable male connector,
> > mate it with a right angle adapter and shrink a chunk
> > of double walled tubing over the interface to make it
> > permanent. . . . the po' boy's right angle connector.
>
>I've done that in the past, and it's seemed to work fine for me. But
>someone who *says* that they know RF tells me that you loose a lot of
>energy out the angle unless it's a super special very expensive right angle
>that has a little horseshoe magnet in it. Any truth to that?
Nope . . .
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Coaxial cables |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 09:49 PM 1/31/2003 -0800, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Wayne Sweet" <wsweet@attbi.com>
>
>The Chief Aircraft catalog has 3 different types of coaxial cable: RG-58
>(50 ohm), RG-142 (low loss for DME/TPX/GPS) and RG-400(low loss for GPS).
>I have used only the multi-stranded RG58 in my homebuilt for all the
>radios, not knowing about the other two. Why the other two???
>Wayne
RG-58 is an obsolete spec coax of WWII era using PVC and
polyethylene insulations and single braid shield. Hasn't
been used in a production aircraft for decades. RG400 cousins
are lower loss, double shielded, modern insulation products
that march along hand-in-hand with tefzel insulated wires
for the rest of your airplane. It's the year-2003 way
to go.
Bob . . .
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Right Angle BNC |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 01:05 PM 2/1/2003 -0500, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Bernie_C@erols.com
>
>To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
>
>What about these guys??
>
>
><<http://www.pasternack.com/catalog.asp?RecNo=0&partNum=pe4345>>
>
>
><<http://www.pasternack.com/catalog.asp?RecNo=0&partNum=pe4053>>
>
>The 4053 is solder. No special tools.
That will work.
Message 5
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Shannon Knoepflein" <kycshann@kyol.net>
For an application like this, I would suggest the Perfect Cubes, which
are solid state devices that Eric Jones is building. I have been
testing these units the past couple weeks, and have found their
performance to be great. They draw very little current to turn them on,
so your switches should last for a long time with little degradation.
The cubes themselves, being solid state, will far outlast any relay.
Just something to think about.
I'm using these for my taxi lights (11A), landing lights (11A), pitot
heat (7A), Navs (5A), and strobes (7A). I'm using Eric's larger units
called the Powerlink JR on my gear up and down (35A) and my avionics
busses (15A and 22A). No relays in my plane :) (well, hopefully
someday)
Eric is also working on a larger unit, called a Powerlink, that will
hopefully be able to replace the stardard battery contactors and handle
200A+. I have a prototype, and hope to test it soon.
Eric has some other cool products too, like the super diodes, a wig wag
flasher, and is working on LED bulbs. All kinds of cool electronic
gadgets that should make our planes safer.
---
Shannon Knoepflein <---> kycshann@kyol.net
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rob W
M Shipley
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Switches and AC
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Rob W M Shipley"
<Rob@RobsGlass.com>
Hey Bob,
I saw this in the RV digest and would like your comments.
Subject: RV-List: Re: [ExperimentalAvionics] off topic request
Hi.. I agree completely with what Marshall just said about using a relay
to
handle current, but would add that believing the rating of a switch can
be
VERY hazardous to you health. I rode a "quiet" 2 cycle engine to the
ground
twice before realizing that the Mag switch that was rated at 20Amps AC
is
only good for about 1/10th that in DC. It arched across the contacts
and
shut the magneto off by grounding it. If you do go with a switch and it
operates on DC, make sure the switch has the current rating you need for
DC
Hope this helps someone avoid my impromptu soaring lession
Ron DeWees Atlanta, Ga
----- Original Message ----- From: "Marshall M. Dues" <mmdues@hal-pc.org
> For switching rather high current (10 to 20 amp) circuits, it is
better
> to use a lesser rated switch to control a small Bosch type relay that
> uses 30 to 40 amp contacts to turn on the heavier loads, like landing
> lights, etc. These little relays are popular in most German vehicles.
> They are available at most auto parts stores. I used them exclusively
> to turn on halogen type landing and taxi lights on my RV-6. Never had
a
> failure in 675 hours. Switching heavy currents through a toggle
switch
> makes for relatively short life of the switch. The contacts arc each
> time they make and break, and soon they either weld themselves shut,
or
> simply carbon themselves over and won't make next time they are turned
> on.
> Marshall Dues Katy, Texas RV-6 N243MD
It sounds like a way of ontroducing more failure points if the available
switches are actually up to snuff.
How's Dee? Making good progress I hope.
Rob
Rob W M Shipley
RV9A N919RV Fuselage.
Message 6
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| Subject: | Wiring headset jacks 2nd try |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Werner Schneider" <wernerschneider@compuserve.com>
As I've got no answer I repost this message
Dear all,
another question where I'm a bit uncertain, even after reading Bob's Shop
Notes and comparing them with the Seminar wirebook. Maybe Bob, if you read
this could you comment?
Bob, in the shop note you say, that you use 3 wire shielded, and the shield
itself is connected on both (?) sides to the Mic LO, did you use the 3 wire
because of wiring both mic's to only 4 ports? (You used the shielding
instead of one wire).
I have a used Garmin 340, where I have a separate port for each mic/phone,
should I use a 2wire shielded for each mic using the shield as the third
wire (if yes, which contact should be wired with the shield)? Same for the
phones, if I use the same approach I could use a 1wire shielded wire for
the
two contacts. It would save weight and money.
Many thanks for your feedback
Werner
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Dual Alt, Dual Battery Installation |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: PTACKABURY@aol.com
Bob: I am building an unpressurized Lancair IV and am designing the power
distribution to support all electric dual electronic ignition operation (no
vacuum, no mags). I am therefore using your Z-14 diagram as the foundation
for the dual alt, dual battery installation. My question: what criteria
should I use to size the second alternator and second battery? I would like
to save weight where possible and yet insure these devices are capable of
supporting what ever load an emergency might require. thank you, paul
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: 10265 Sherick |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
>
>Thanks for the reply to my previous email concerning antenna ground
>planes. I did review the antenna section in your (nicely done) book and
>it brings up a couple more questions that I hope you will comment on.
>
>I am using a Comant COMM antenna (swept back version) on the e-glass belly
>pan. I have a total space of 24" wide x 48" long for a ground plane
>area. The Comm antenna is back from a Transponder antenna, which is
>placed forward on the belly pan.
>
>Question: Can I use the copper tape approach for the COMM antenna with the
>limited belly pan width of 24 inches? Or, is it possible to just use a
>single piece of aluminum 24" x 48" for the ground plane for both the COMM
>and Transponder antennas? Which approach might be more effective as a
>ground plane?
One never achieves an ideal ground plane on small aircraft.
ANY ground plane is better than NO ground plane. Do the best
you can and don't worry about it. Radials can run up the
contours and still be VERY effective. It's the length
that is magic, not the "flatness" . . . any hunk of aluminum
you can fit in there will probably be adequate also.
>Regarding the Marker Beacon antenna: You indicate a "sled" type approach
>75" in length. Bob Archer has a 1" wide copper tape version 40" long. Is
>either approach OK the the Marker Beacon antenna requirement? Also, how
>for from the COMM ground plane should the Marker Beacon antenna be located?
That 75" figure is an error . . . which you are the first one
to bring it to my attention. 75MHz marker beacon is 4 meters
full wavelength making a 1/4 wave antenna 1 meter long or
40". The 40" internal antenna wire would be fine. It can begin
at the edge of your aluminum sheet ground plane. Ground shield
of marker beacon coax to ground plane and connect center conductor
of coax to 40' piece of wire that is straight as possible but again,
length is magic, straightness is less important.
Bob . . .
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Low Cost Ground Power Jack ..... |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 10:43 PM 1/31/2003 -0500, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Richard Dudley <rhdudley@att.net>
>
>Bob,
>I believe that I have found the answer to my own question. The symbol
>that I took as a circuit breaker is a switch breaker. Then the operating
>procedure would be to connect the external power which could be
>confirmed by the push-to-test light. The switch breaker would have
>control of the contactor and would have to be switched off at the end of
>the transfer to avoid the battery holding the contactor closed.
>
>Regards,
>
>Richard Dudley
You got it!
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Switches and AC |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Walter Casey <mikec@caseyspm.com>
Shannon,
How do we contact Eric Jones.
On Sunday, February 2, 2003, at 10:04 AM, Shannon Knoepflein wrote:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Shannon Knoepflein"
> <kycshann@kyol.net>
>
> For an application like this, I would suggest the Perfect Cubes, which
> are solid state devices that Eric Jones is building. I have been
> testing these units the past couple weeks, and have found their
> performance to be great. They draw very little current to turn them
> on,
> so your switches should last for a long time with little degradation.
> The cubes themselves, being solid state, will far outlast any relay.
> Just something to think about.
>
> I'm using these for my taxi lights (11A), landing lights (11A), pitot
> heat (7A), Navs (5A), and strobes (7A). I'm using Eric's larger units
> called the Powerlink JR on my gear up and down (35A) and my avionics
> busses (15A and 22A). No relays in my plane :) (well, hopefully
> someday)
>
> Eric is also working on a larger unit, called a Powerlink, that will
> hopefully be able to replace the stardard battery contactors and handle
> 200A+. I have a prototype, and hope to test it soon.
>
> Eric has some other cool products too, like the super diodes, a wig wag
> flasher, and is working on LED bulbs. All kinds of cool electronic
> gadgets that should make our planes safer.
>
> ---
> Shannon Knoepflein <---> kycshann@kyol.net
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rob
> W
> M Shipley
> To: AeroElectric-List Digest Server
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: Switches and AC
>
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Rob W M Shipley"
> <Rob@RobsGlass.com>
>
> Hey Bob,
> I saw this in the RV digest and would like your comments.
>
> Subject: RV-List: Re: [ExperimentalAvionics] off topic request
> Hi.. I agree completely with what Marshall just said about using a
> relay
> to
> handle current, but would add that believing the rating of a switch can
> be
> VERY hazardous to you health. I rode a "quiet" 2 cycle engine to the
> ground
> twice before realizing that the Mag switch that was rated at 20Amps AC
> is
> only good for about 1/10th that in DC. It arched across the contacts
> and
> shut the magneto off by grounding it. If you do go with a switch and
> it
> operates on DC, make sure the switch has the current rating you need
> for
> DC
> Hope this helps someone avoid my impromptu soaring lession
> Ron DeWees Atlanta, Ga
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Marshall M. Dues"
> <mmdues@hal-pc.org
>> For switching rather high current (10 to 20 amp) circuits, it is
> better
>> to use a lesser rated switch to control a small Bosch type relay that
>> uses 30 to 40 amp contacts to turn on the heavier loads, like landing
>> lights, etc. These little relays are popular in most German vehicles.
>> They are available at most auto parts stores. I used them exclusively
>> to turn on halogen type landing and taxi lights on my RV-6. Never had
> a
>> failure in 675 hours. Switching heavy currents through a toggle
> switch
>> makes for relatively short life of the switch. The contacts arc each
>> time they make and break, and soon they either weld themselves shut,
> or
>> simply carbon themselves over and won't make next time they are turned
>> on.
>> Marshall Dues Katy, Texas RV-6 N243MD
>
> It sounds like a way of ontroducing more failure points if the
> available
> switches are actually up to snuff.
>
> How's Dee? Making good progress I hope.
> Rob
> Rob W M Shipley
> RV9A N919RV Fuselage.
>
>
> _-
> ======================================================================
> _-
> ======================================================================
> _-
> ======================================================================
> _-
> ======================================================================
>
>
Message 11
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Mark A. Wood" <Mark.Wood@uvm.edu>
Hello all
Forgive me if this has been addressed before, I am new to this list
and did not have luck running the archives.
I was wiring a PTT switch for my hand held 520 JRC radio. It seems to
work better and shut off faster if I use only a single switch from
the tip of the plug to the ground, and leave the center connector to
center connector connection connected rather then disconnecting them
with a second switch when I release the PTT switch. ( I hope that is
understandable to people.)
Does anyone have feelings on weather or not I should leave this as a
single switch or double it up and disconnect the center connectors?
_____________________ _____
l \/ \
___________l_________/\_____/
ground center tip
Thanks
Mark Wood
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: 10267 Strickland |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
>
>I'm an RV-6 builder and I'm building your dual alt/single battery
>electrical system (Figure Z-12 in revision 10.) I have a couple of questions:
>
>1) I'm running a dual electronic ignition (Light Speed Engineering, Klaus
>Saviors system) and he recommends I connect to the battery, by-passing any
>busses. He also recommends a 5 amp circuit breaker. Your schematic shows
>electronic ignition coming off the battery bus. I'm a total fan of your
>design and was planning on running one electronic ignition, via the fuse
>block, off the battery bus and the other off the essential bus, what
>should I do?
I think I'd run both of them off the battery bus. Each
on with it's own fuse. . . . since this is an electrically
dependent engine, you might consider adding a second battery,
(even if just a small, 6-8 a.h. device), a battery relay
(mini-contactor) to support one of ignition systems.
>2)Your schematic shows a circuit braker for the alt fld, lv warn, and
>start. How do I connect a circuit breaker to the fuse block?
Those diagrams are generic depictions of architectures. If you
use fuse blocks, then only the ALT FLD gets a breaker on an
EXTENSION of the bus created by fusible link connection to
the main feedpoint bolt of the fuseblock. (See Figure Z-11)
If you use breakers as depicted in Z-12, then everything feeds
from your fabricated bus via breakers.
Bob . . .
|-------------------------------------------------------|
| The man who does not read good books has no advantage |
| over the man who cannot read them. |
| - Mark Twain |
|-------------------------------------------------------|
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Switches and AC |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 05:14 PM 2/1/2003 -0800, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Rob W M Shipley" <Rob@RobsGlass.com>
>
>Hey Bob,
>I saw this in the RV digest and would like your comments.
>
>Subject: RV-List: Re: [ExperimentalAvionics] off topic request
>Hi.. I agree completely with what Marshall just said about using a relay to
>handle current, but would add that believing the rating of a switch can be
>VERY hazardous to you health. I rode a "quiet" 2 cycle engine to the ground
>twice before realizing that the Mag switch that was rated at 20Amps AC is
>only good for about 1/10th that in DC. It arched across the contacts and
>shut the magneto off by grounding it. If you do go with a switch and it
>operates on DC, make sure the switch has the current rating you need for DC
>Hope this helps someone avoid my impromptu soaring lession
>Ron DeWees Atlanta, Ga
See:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/swtchrat.pdf
Message 14
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21@london.edu>
I am about to order some LEDs. Roughly how many mcd do I need for the
following:
1. For a red flood for the cabin if all else fails so I can see in dim
light?
2. A white one to provide some light in the baggage compartement to
find something in the dark when the plane is parked?
Thanks, Steve.
Message 15
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| Subject: | RE: Dual battery / Dual Alternator in composite canard |
pusher
boeing.com>
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 08:43 AM 2/3/2003 -0800, you wrote:
>Bob,
>
>I managed to work this one out myself (like I should have in the first
>place). The listed connections in the email below are incorrect. I now have:
>
>1. 2AWG all the way from Main battery to engine crankcase ground.
>2. Ground strap from engine crankcase ground to firewall fast on ground
>bus (5/16" brass bolt).
>3. 4AWG from firewall fast on ground bus (5/16" brass bolt) to instrument
>panel fast on ground bus (5/16" brass bolt).
>4. 2AWG from Aux battery to firewall fast on ground bus (5/16" brass bolt).
>
>Unless you have any further comment, I'll move fwd with this plan.
>
>- Wayne
Take a look at http://216.55.140.222/temp/CPDBFB.pdf
Bob . . .
Message 16
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
>
>
>I'm using these for my taxi lights (11A), landing lights (11A), pitot
>heat (7A), Navs (5A), and strobes (7A).
A 7A "rated" toggle or rocker switch would run for thousands
of cycles in any of these applications.
> I'm using Eric's larger units
>called the Powerlink JR on my gear up and down (35A) and my avionics
>busses (15A and 22A).
Avionics busses?????? how come?
Bob . . .
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Dual Alt, Dual Battery Installation |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 12:38 PM 2/3/2003 -0500, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: PTACKABURY@aol.com
>
>
>Bob: I am building an unpressurized Lancair IV and am designing the power
>distribution to support all electric dual electronic ignition operation (no
>vacuum, no mags). I am therefore using your Z-14 diagram as the foundation
>for the dual alt, dual battery installation. My question: what criteria
>should I use to size the second alternator and second battery? I would like
>to save weight where possible and yet insure these devices are capable of
>supporting what ever load an emergency might require. thank you, paul
You haven't got many choices for vacuum pump driven
alternators. There's an 8A and a 20A device currently
on the market. The 8A is probably too small, so go with
the SD-20.
Bob . . .
p.s. please don't think of ANY failure in your electrical
system as being worthy of calling it an EMERGENCY. If
we don't end up with a system that takes ANY failure as
a ho-hum, no-sweat event, then we haven't done our
homework.
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Wiring headset jacks 2nd try |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
> Bob, in the shop note you say, that you use 3 wire shielded, and the shield
> itself is connected on both (?) sides to the Mic LO, did you use the 3 wire
> because of wiring both mic's to only 4 ports? (You used the shielding
> instead of one wire).
The shop notes are one example of suitable wiring as it
applies to the 760VHF that has one PTT and two mic inputs
for the pair crew stations. This means I have three active
wires departing the radio and the need for one ground return.
I had some 3-conductor shielded and the drawing illustrates
a technique for using wire on hand for this task.
> I have a used Garmin 340, where I have a separate port for each mic/phone,
> should I use a 2wire shielded for each mic using the shield as the third
> wire (if yes, which contact should be wired with the shield)? Same for the
> phones, if I use the same approach I could use a 1wire shielded wire for
>the
> two contacts. It would save weight and money.
Here's a wirebook I did for a 430/340 combo
in the AGATE Bonanza a few years ago.
http://216.55.140.222/temp/gns430.pdf
Bob . . .
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: PTT switches |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 01:02 PM 2/3/2003 -0500, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Mark A. Wood" <Mark.Wood@uvm.edu>
>
>Hello all
>Forgive me if this has been addressed before, I am new to this list
>and did not have luck running the archives.
>
>I was wiring a PTT switch for my hand held 520 JRC radio. It seems to
>work better and shut off faster if I use only a single switch from
>the tip of the plug to the ground, and leave the center connector to
>center connector connection connected rather then disconnecting them
>with a second switch when I release the PTT switch. ( I hope that is
>understandable to people.)
>Does anyone have feelings on weather or not I should leave this as a
>single switch or double it up and disconnect the center connectors?
>
>_____________________ _____
> l \/ \
>___________l_________/\_____/
>ground center tip
>
>Thanks
>Mark Wood
You difficult to argue with success . . . but if what
you're doing is contrary to manufacturer's instructions,
there is some risk that requirements unknown to us
are not being satisfied.
Bob . . .
Message 20
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 06:28 PM 2/3/2003 +0000, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Steve Sampson"
><SSampson.SLN21@london.edu>
>
>I am about to order some LEDs. Roughly how many mcd do I need for the
>following:
>
>1. For a red flood for the cabin if all else fails so I can see in dim
>light?
>2. A white one to provide some light in the baggage compartement to
>find something in the dark when the plane is parked?
The human eye is an amazing device with a huge dynamic
range. ANY high output led (600 MCD or more) will produce
usable results for total light output.
You may find that the light doesn't spread enough
for convenient use which may drive a need for multiple
lamps. It's a an experiment that may well dictate changes
to whatever you put in the first time.
Bob . . .
Message 21
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Shannon Knoepflein" <kycshann@kyol.net>
Eric M. Jones emjones@charter.net
He's on this list.
---
Shannon Knoepflein <---> kycshann@kyol.net
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Walter Casey
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Switches and AC
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Walter Casey
<mikec@caseyspm.com>
Shannon,
How do we contact Eric Jones.
On Sunday, February 2, 2003, at 10:04 AM, Shannon Knoepflein wrote:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Shannon Knoepflein"
> <kycshann@kyol.net>
>
> For an application like this, I would suggest the Perfect Cubes, which
> are solid state devices that Eric Jones is building. I have been
> testing these units the past couple weeks, and have found their
> performance to be great. They draw very little current to turn them
> on,
> so your switches should last for a long time with little degradation.
> The cubes themselves, being solid state, will far outlast any relay.
> Just something to think about.
>
> I'm using these for my taxi lights (11A), landing lights (11A), pitot
> heat (7A), Navs (5A), and strobes (7A). I'm using Eric's larger units
> called the Powerlink JR on my gear up and down (35A) and my avionics
> busses (15A and 22A). No relays in my plane :) (well, hopefully
> someday)
>
> Eric is also working on a larger unit, called a Powerlink, that will
> hopefully be able to replace the stardard battery contactors and
handle
> 200A+. I have a prototype, and hope to test it soon.
>
> Eric has some other cool products too, like the super diodes, a wig
wag
> flasher, and is working on LED bulbs. All kinds of cool electronic
> gadgets that should make our planes safer.
>
> ---
> Shannon Knoepflein <---> kycshann@kyol.net
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rob
> W
> M Shipley
> To: AeroElectric-List Digest Server
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: Switches and AC
>
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Rob W M Shipley"
> <Rob@RobsGlass.com>
>
> Hey Bob,
> I saw this in the RV digest and would like your comments.
>
> Subject: RV-List: Re: [ExperimentalAvionics] off topic request
> Hi.. I agree completely with what Marshall just said about using a
> relay
> to
> handle current, but would add that believing the rating of a switch
can
> be
> VERY hazardous to you health. I rode a "quiet" 2 cycle engine to the
> ground
> twice before realizing that the Mag switch that was rated at 20Amps AC
> is
> only good for about 1/10th that in DC. It arched across the contacts
> and
> shut the magneto off by grounding it. If you do go with a switch and
> it
> operates on DC, make sure the switch has the current rating you need
> for
> DC
> Hope this helps someone avoid my impromptu soaring lession
> Ron DeWees Atlanta, Ga
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Marshall M. Dues"
> <mmdues@hal-pc.org
>> For switching rather high current (10 to 20 amp) circuits, it is
> better
>> to use a lesser rated switch to control a small Bosch type relay that
>> uses 30 to 40 amp contacts to turn on the heavier loads, like
landing
>> lights, etc. These little relays are popular in most German
vehicles.
>> They are available at most auto parts stores. I used them
exclusively
>> to turn on halogen type landing and taxi lights on my RV-6. Never
had
> a
>> failure in 675 hours. Switching heavy currents through a toggle
> switch
>> makes for relatively short life of the switch. The contacts arc each
>> time they make and break, and soon they either weld themselves shut,
> or
>> simply carbon themselves over and won't make next time they are
turned
>> on.
>> Marshall Dues Katy, Texas RV-6 N243MD
>
> It sounds like a way of ontroducing more failure points if the
> available
> switches are actually up to snuff.
>
> How's Dee? Making good progress I hope.
> Rob
> Rob W M Shipley
> RV9A N919RV Fuselage.
>
>
> _-
> ======================================================================
> _-
> ======================================================================
> _-
> ======================================================================
> _-
> ======================================================================
>
>
Message 22
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| Subject: | switch keyway question |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Sorry if the answer to this is obvious...
I'm still in the panel planning phase...haven't bought any switches or cut
any holes yet.
When drilling your panel for toggle switches, is the keyway slot generally
ignored? I mean...maybe if you have the panel laser cut you could have the
keyway notch integrated into the cutout, but when drilling your own 15/32"
holes there doesn't seem to be a good way to do this. Does simply using a
lock washer of some sort prevent switch rotation?
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D (fuselage/finish)
http://www.rvproject.com
Message 23
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: William Shaffer <shafferaviation@yahoo.com>
Shannon Knoepflein <kycshann@kyol.net> wrote:--> AeroElectric-List message posted
by: "Shannon Knoepflein"
Eric M. Jones emjones@charter.net
He's on this list.
---
Shannon Knoepflein <---> kycshann@kyol.net
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Walter Casey
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Switches and AC
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Walter Casey
Shannon,
How do we contact Eric Jones.
On Sunday, February 2, 2003, at 10:04 AM, Shannon Knoepflein wrote:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Shannon Knoepflein"
>
>
> For an application like this, I would suggest the Perfect Cubes, which
> are solid state devices that Eric Jones is building. I have been
> testing these units the past couple weeks, and have found their
> performance to be great. They draw very little current to turn them
> on,
> so your switches should last for a long time with little degradation.
> The cubes themselves, being solid state, will far outlast any relay.
> Just something to think about.
>
> I'm using these for my taxi lights (11A), landing lights (11A), pitot
> heat (7A), Navs (5A), and strobes (7A). I'm using Eric's larger units
> called the Powerlink JR on my gear up and down (35A) and my avionics
> busses (15A and 22A). No relays in my plane :) (well, hopefully
> someday)
>
> Eric is also working on a larger unit, called a Powerlink, that will
> hopefully be able to replace the stardard battery contactors and
handle
> 200A+. I have a prototype, and hope to test it soon.
>
> Eric has some other cool products too, like the super diodes, a wig
wag
> flasher, and is working on LED bulbs. All kinds of cool electronic
> gadgets that should make our planes safer.
>
> ---
> Shannon Knoepflein <---> kycshann@kyol.net
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rob
> W
> M Shipley
> To: AeroElectric-List Digest Server
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: Switches and AC
>
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Rob W M Shipley"
>
>
> Hey Bob,
> I saw this in the RV digest and would like your comments.
>
> Subject: RV-List: Re: [ExperimentalAvionics] off topic request
> Hi.. I agree completely with what Marshall just said about using a
> relay
> to
> handle current, but would add that believing the rating of a switch
can
> be
> VERY hazardous to you health. I rode a "quiet" 2 cycle engine to the
> ground
> twice before realizing that the Mag switch that was rated at 20Amps AC
> is
> only good for about 1/10th that in DC. It arched across the contacts
> and
> shut the magneto off by grounding it. If you do go with a switch and
> it
> operates on DC, make sure the switch has the current rating you need
> for
> DC
> Hope this helps someone avoid my impromptu soaring lession
> Ron DeWees Atlanta, Ga
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Marshall M. Dues"
> >> For switching rather high current (10 to 20 amp) circuits, it is
> better
>> to use a lesser rated switch to control a small Bosch type relay that
>> uses 30 to 40 amp contacts to turn on the heavier loads, like
landing
>> lights, etc. These little relays are popular in most German
vehicles.
>> They are available at most auto parts stores. I used them
exclusively
>> to turn on halogen type landing and taxi lights on my RV-6. Never
had
> a
>> failure in 675 hours. Switching heavy currents through a toggle
> switch
>> makes for relatively short life of the switch. The contacts arc each
>> time they make and break, and soon they either weld themselves shut,
> or
>> simply carbon themselves over and won't make next time they are
turned
>> on.
>> Marshall Dues Katy, Texas RV-6 N243MD
>
> It sounds like a way of ontroducing more failure points if the
> available
> switches are actually up to snuff.
>
> How's Dee? Making good progress I hope.
> Rob
> Rob W M Shipley
> RV9A N919RV Fuselage.
>
>
> _-
> ======================================================================
> _- you san go candhsales.com they have 50 amp DC aircraft relays for $7.95 ea.
> ======================================================================
> _-
> ======================================================================
> _-
> ======================================================================
>
>
---------------------------------
Message 24
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Shannon Knoepflein" <kycshann@kyol.net>
Bob,
....per comments about switches versus solid state devices....
I stick with 1,000,000 cycles, thanks. No big deal, but to each his
own, and in this case I'll stick with my way. You always want people to
tell you why. Well, in this case, my reason is quite
simple.....1,000,000+ cycles is better than 1,000. Solid state devices
will always win when it becomes a battle of dependability, especially
where vibration is a concern. Also, the solid state devices have
thermal shutout protection modes that no switch or relay have. The
sizes and weight are also much less for the solid state devices. The
cube (20A) is about the size of a dice, the powerlink jr (35A) is the
size of a domino. In my design I haven't chosen to implement this, as
they aren't 100% proven yet, but in the future, you won't even need
fuses or circuit breakers with these devices and their protection
modes.....if they draw too much current, they trip out until the current
reaches a normal level. This would be a highly simplified system
without CB's or fuses, and a lot less weight, AND no pilot
thought/action required. Until they are proven and I have some hours on
them, I chose to go a more traditional route....
http://www.lancaironline.net/pix/shannon-jan03/panel_cbs
http://www.lancaironline.net/pix/shannon-jan03/panel_perfect_cube_2
with mounting the cubes DIRECTLY to the circuit breaker, as their tab is
a Vin terminal also.
....per questions about avionics busses.....
Bob, we've been through all this before on the avionics busses,
http://shannon.v8eaters.com/images/lancair/ the spreadsheet with all
the loads is there. My devices, Chelton Flight Systems EFIS 2000
system, are not DO-160 on the experimental side (and half the price
versus the certified DO-160 version.....the certified version wasn't
even available when I purchased mine though, so it wasn't an option), so
they require a dedicated buss during starting. I realize this isn't
ideal, but it is what I have chosen to work with, and I am quite happen
with them. Therefore, I decided to design a system as simple and yet
robust as possible within the design limits I chose by using the CFS
EFIS. I think I've succeeded.
Here's what I've done: The EFIS has to be behind an AV MASTER, no other
way about it. I also like the convenience of an AV MASTER to simplify
power up and down of my quite complex all electric panel. So, 1) I have
to have it to protect my "wimpy" or "pampered" EFIS, and 2) I like the
convenience. Also, since the EFIS is one of my essential flight
instruments, it needs to be on an ESS buss, so basically I combined an
ESS (or endurance as you call it now) buss and a AVIONICS buss together.
My design is simple. There is a switch on the panel that controls a
Powerlink Jr SSR. The Jr SSR is fed from the main buss through a diode
and then on to the ESS AV devices. Now, this alone doesn't make it an
ESS buss, so an ALT FEED switch will switch power directly to this ESS
buss from the battery in a true emergency, just leaving on what I need,
which the EFIS happens to be one of the devices.
The only difference between my system and yours is instead of just the
diode feeding the ESS buss, I added a interruptible power, so I can shut
it off and make it an AV buss too and protect the EFIS during starting.
To make this aspect as dependable as possible, I went beyond just a
normal relay, and am using a solid state device. In true ESS buss form,
this is all backed up by a ALT FEED switch.
I think I've come up with the simplest system and the most robust that
will fit my needs. I see no drawbacks. As always, I'm open to
comments.
---
Shannon Knoepflein <---> kycshann@kyol.net
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Robert L. Nuckolls, III
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Switches and AC
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
<bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
>
>
>I'm using these for my taxi lights (11A), landing lights (11A), pitot
>heat (7A), Navs (5A), and strobes (7A).
A 7A "rated" toggle or rocker switch would run for thousands
of cycles in any of these applications.
> I'm using Eric's larger units
>called the Powerlink JR on my gear up and down (35A) and my avionics
>busses (15A and 22A).
Avionics busses?????? how come?
Bob . . .
Message 25
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|
| Subject: | Re: Dual Alt, Dual Battery Installation |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: PTACKABURY@aol.com
Thanks Bob: 20A backup alternator it is. Now how do I size the backup
battery? paul
Message 26
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|
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 03:18 PM 2/2/2003 -0500, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Shannon Knoepflein"
><kycshann@kyol.net>
>
>Bob,
>
>....per comments about switches versus solid state devices....
<snip>
>I think I've come up with the simplest system and the most robust that
>will fit my needs. I see no drawbacks. As always, I'm open to
>comments.
Fair 'nuf.
Message 27
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|
| Subject: | Re: Switches and AC |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
Recently I have noticed a few listers sending requests for lost or missing
contact information for other listers.
A simple way to obtain the most recent email addresses of other listers is
to go to the list archives and enter the name or the email address that you
have for the person being sought.
Entering your own email address/s can be interesting, A sort of journal like
experience might describe the outcome.
do not archive ... Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "William Shaffer" <shafferaviation@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Switches and AC
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: William Shaffer
<shafferaviation@yahoo.com>
>
>
> Shannon Knoepflein <kycshann@kyol.net> wrote:--> AeroElectric-List
message posted by: "Shannon Knoepflein"
>
> Eric M. Jones emjones@charter.net
>
> He's on this list.
>
> ---
> Shannon Knoepflein <---> kycshann@kyol.net
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> Walter Casey
> To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Switches and AC
>
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Walter Casey
>
>
> Shannon,
> How do we contact Eric Jones.
>
> On Sunday, February 2, 2003, at 10:04 AM, Shannon Knoepflein wrote:
>
> > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Shannon Knoepflein"
> >
> >
> > For an application like this, I would suggest the Perfect Cubes, which
> > are solid state devices that Eric Jones is building. I have been
> > testing these units the past couple weeks, and have found their
> > performance to be great. They draw very little current to turn them
> > on,
> > so your switches should last for a long time with little degradation.
> > The cubes themselves, being solid state, will far outlast any relay.
> > Just something to think about.
> >
> > I'm using these for my taxi lights (11A), landing lights (11A), pitot
> > heat (7A), Navs (5A), and strobes (7A). I'm using Eric's larger units
> > called the Powerlink JR on my gear up and down (35A) and my avionics
> > busses (15A and 22A). No relays in my plane :) (well, hopefully
> > someday)
> >
> > Eric is also working on a larger unit, called a Powerlink, that will
> > hopefully be able to replace the stardard battery contactors and
> handle
> > 200A+. I have a prototype, and hope to test it soon.
> >
> > Eric has some other cool products too, like the super diodes, a wig
> wag
> > flasher, and is working on LED bulbs. All kinds of cool electronic
> > gadgets that should make our planes safer.
> >
> > ---
> > Shannon Knoepflein <---> kycshann@kyol.net
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rob
>
> > W
> > M Shipley
> > To: AeroElectric-List Digest Server
> > Subject: AeroElectric-List: Switches and AC
> >
> > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Rob W M Shipley"
> >
> >
> > Hey Bob,
> > I saw this in the RV digest and would like your comments.
> >
> > Subject: RV-List: Re: [ExperimentalAvionics] off topic request
> > Hi.. I agree completely with what Marshall just said about using a
> > relay
> > to
> > handle current, but would add that believing the rating of a switch
> can
> > be
> > VERY hazardous to you health. I rode a "quiet" 2 cycle engine to the
> > ground
> > twice before realizing that the Mag switch that was rated at 20Amps AC
> > is
> > only good for about 1/10th that in DC. It arched across the contacts
> > and
> > shut the magneto off by grounding it. If you do go with a switch and
>
> > it
> > operates on DC, make sure the switch has the current rating you need
> > for
> > DC
> > Hope this helps someone avoid my impromptu soaring lession
> > Ron DeWees Atlanta, Ga
> >
> > ----- Original Message ----- From: "Marshall M. Dues"
> > >> For switching rather high current (10 to 20 amp) circuits, it is
> > better
> >> to use a lesser rated switch to control a small Bosch type relay that
> >> uses 30 to 40 amp contacts to turn on the heavier loads, like
> landing
> >> lights, etc. These little relays are popular in most German
> vehicles.
> >> They are available at most auto parts stores. I used them
> exclusively
> >> to turn on halogen type landing and taxi lights on my RV-6. Never
> had
> > a
> >> failure in 675 hours. Switching heavy currents through a toggle
> > switch
> >> makes for relatively short life of the switch. The contacts arc each
> >> time they make and break, and soon they either weld themselves shut,
> > or
> >> simply carbon themselves over and won't make next time they are
> turned
> >> on.
> >> Marshall Dues Katy, Texas RV-6 N243MD
> >
> > It sounds like a way of ontroducing more failure points if the
> > available
> > switches are actually up to snuff.
> >
> > How's Dee? Making good progress I hope.
> > Rob
> > Rob W M Shipley
> > RV9A N919RV Fuselage.
> >
> >
> > _-
> > ======================================================================
> > _- you san go candhsales.com they have 50 amp DC aircraft relays for
$7.95 ea.
> > ======================================================================
> > _-
> > ======================================================================
> > _-
> > ======================================================================
> >
> >
>
>
> ---------------------------------
>
>
Message 28
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| Subject: | Re: switch keyway question |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 11:52 AM 2/3/2003 -0800, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
>Sorry if the answer to this is obvious...
>
>I'm still in the panel planning phase...haven't bought any switches or cut
>any holes yet.
>
>When drilling your panel for toggle switches, is the keyway slot generally
>ignored? I mean...maybe if you have the panel laser cut you could have the
>keyway notch integrated into the cutout, but when drilling your own 15/32"
>holes there doesn't seem to be a good way to do this. Does simply using a
>lock washer of some sort prevent switch rotation?
Ignore the keyway for cutting panel and then use anti-rotation
washer that comes with switch. Hole layout for using these washers
is shown on page 6 of:
http://content.honeywell.com/sensing/prodinfo/tr/catalog/tl_series.pdf
Note that tab on anti-rotation washer may be on the OPPOSITE
side from switch keyway so the anti-rotation hole may need
to be BELOW the main clearance hole.
Bob . . .
Message 29
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| Subject: | Re: switch keyway question |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Scot Stambaugh <sstambaugh@qualcomm.com>
My switches came with the washer that fits over the flat on the threaded
shaft. The washer has a tab that is bent 90 deg. so I drilled a small hole
next to the main switch mounting hole and clocked it properly to align the
switch. This keeps the switches properly oriented during installation and
keeps them that way during use. Because the switch can't turn during
normal use, it also helps to prevent the switch nut from working loose.
scot
At 11:52 AM 2/3/2003, Dan Checkoway wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
>Sorry if the answer to this is obvious...
>
>I'm still in the panel planning phase...haven't bought any switches or cut
>any holes yet.
>
>When drilling your panel for toggle switches, is the keyway slot generally
>ignored? I mean...maybe if you have the panel laser cut you could have the
>keyway notch integrated into the cutout, but when drilling your own 15/32"
>holes there doesn't seem to be a good way to do this. Does simply using a
>lock washer of some sort prevent switch rotation?
>
>)_( Dan
>RV-7 N714D (fuselage/finish)
>http://www.rvproject.com
>
>
Message 30
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| Subject: | Dual Alt, Dual Battery Installation |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Shannon Knoepflein" <kycshann@kyol.net>
How can you size the altenator without even knowing what loads will be
on it? I'd suggest doing a load analysis spreadsheet. There is one on
my site, http://shannon.v8eaters.com/images/lancair/ get the
spreadsheet, which you can use as a starting point/template.
There is a 35A pad mount alternator available from GAMI in both a
standard and a 90 degree mount. These are ~6# units. Also, Kelly
Aerospace is developing a 70A unit that is pad mount.
I imagine you are a little ways out from need the alternator, so I would
suggest doing a load analysis, and then deciding what alternator to use.
---
Shannon Knoepflein <---> kycshann@kyol.net
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
PTACKABURY@aol.com
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Dual Alt, Dual Battery Installation
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: PTACKABURY@aol.com
Thanks Bob: 20A backup alternator it is. Now how do I size the backup
battery? paul
Message 31
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| Subject: | Re: Dual Alt, Dual Battery Installation |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 03:42 PM 2/3/2003 -0500, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: PTACKABURY@aol.com
>
>
>Thanks Bob: 20A backup alternator it is. Now how do I size the backup
>battery? paul
I'd run a pair of 17 a.h. batteries. Every year, put a new battery
in main alternator slot, move old main to aux battery slot, give
old aux battery to grand-kids for their battery powered kiddie-car.
This way, you always have a battery less than one year old,
no battery more than two years old. This combination of
34 a.h. of demonstrable capacity combined with two engine
driven power sources will provide you system integrity
not available on the vast majority of aircraft flying in
the world today.
However, given the the way most light aircraft are used
you could probably save a few dollars by running the batteries
till they croak . . . with two alternators, your chances
of getting caught with a dark panel are on the same order
as having your propeller break off.
Bob . . .
Message 32
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: frequent flyer <jdhcv@yahoo.com>
Someone recently posted a URL for a set of four
Wheelen strobes and power supply for around $195.00. I
looked in the archives and couldn't find it. Anyone
know what it is?
Jack in AZ
do not archive.
Message 33
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Scot Stambaugh <sstambaugh@qualcomm.com>
check out:
http://strobeguy.safeshopper.com/index.htm?359
At 03:42 PM 2/3/2003, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: frequent flyer <jdhcv@yahoo.com>
>
>Someone recently posted a URL for a set of four
>Wheelen strobes and power supply for around $195.00. I
>looked in the archives and couldn't find it. Anyone
>know what it is?
>
>Jack in AZ
>
>do not archive.
>
>
Message 34
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: frequent flyer <jdhcv@yahoo.com>
That was it Scott, any suggestions why I would want to
spend $50 more for 90W as opposed to 60W?
Jack
do not archive
Message 35
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| Subject: | Re: switch keyway question |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Werner Schneider" <wernerschneider@compuserve.com>
Hello Dan,
if you drill the keyway switch (the 90 deg tab) first, there is no problem
to drill the switch hole later,
worked on my panel in about 10 cases.
Werner (crimping and crimping and crimping.......)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: switch keyway question
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway"
<dan@rvproject.com>
>
> Sorry if the answer to this is obvious...
>
> I'm still in the panel planning phase...haven't bought any switches or cut
> any holes yet.
>
> When drilling your panel for toggle switches, is the keyway slot generally
> ignored? I mean...maybe if you have the panel laser cut you could have
the
> keyway notch integrated into the cutout, but when drilling your own 15/32"
> holes there doesn't seem to be a good way to do this. Does simply using a
> lock washer of some sort prevent switch rotation?
>
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D (fuselage/finish)
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
>
Message 36
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| Subject: | Re: Wiring headset jacks 2nd try |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Werner Schneider" <wernerschneider@compuserve.com>
Hello Bob,
as usual, exactly what I need to confirm my doing!
Appreciate very much your help!
Kind regards
Werner
> Here's a wirebook I did for a 430/340 combo
> in the AGATE Bonanza a few years ago.
>
> http://216.55.140.222/temp/gns430.pdf
>
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
Message 37
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Scot Stambaugh <sstambaugh@qualcomm.com>
I bought the 90W because the various specs show that the strobes create
more candle power. More candle power translates to more range in my novice
mind. I'll check brightness against some of my spam can friends when I get
it to the airport. Right now it really lights up the garage -- and I
haven't seen the cat for some time either so there is a secondary benefit!!!
scot
At 04:04 PM 2/3/2003, frequent flyer wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: frequent flyer <jdhcv@yahoo.com>
>
>That was it Scott, any suggestions why I would want to
>spend $50 more for 90W as opposed to 60W?
>
>Jack
>
>do not archive
>
>
Message 38
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| Subject: | Re: cycling voltmeter and ammeter |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 06:56 AM 1/31/2003 -0500, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: N223RV@aol.com
>
> have about 16 hours on my RV-4 and have a question.=A0 My voltmeter and
>ammeter cycle between 13-14.5 V on the voltmeter and between 5-10 amps every
>1/2 second or so.=A0 The volt meter rapidly rises from 13 volts to 14.5 volts
>and back almost like the voltage is rising, gets too high, cuts out, drops
>below 13 volts, kicks back in, rises to 14.5 volts, cuts out......=A0 It just
>rapidly cycles up and down.=A0 I have tried adjusting the voltage regulator
>lower but does not seem to help the cycling.....
>
>I have a 35 amp Van's supplied alternator, a Van's supplied $35ish voltage
>regulator, and an Aeroelectric overvoltage protection device.=A0 This issue
>does not seem to cause any problems, but it does not seem right.=A0
>
>Last night I turned on all my electrical accessories and it seemed to steady
>out at about 13 V, but if I turn off just a couple of items, it goes right
>back to cycling.=A0 I don't understand what is going on or if it is an issue,
>but it just does not seem right. Does anyone have any ideas on what to check?
This sounds like a classic voltage stability problem
that can jump up when there is too much resistance
in the wiring and components between a voltage regulator
and where it ties to the bus.
Just for grins, try making a temporary connection from
the input of your regulator right to the b-lead of
the alternator. Use a nice fat 18AWG or 16AWG wire.
Disconnect the regulator's input lead that gets power
from the bus and splice it to the test wire. Attach
the other end of the wire to the alternator b-lead.
Turn off ALL electronic gizmos. Start the engine
and check the voltmeter. If the voltage looks okay,
then try turning things on to vary the load while
you watch the voltmeter. There's a good chance that
the voltage will be steady.
If this is true, then you need to "refurbish" all
wiring/components between the bus and the regulator.
This is a very common problem on some models of
single engine Cessnas where there can be as many as
20 joints in the wiring between bus and regulator.
As these age and increase in resistance, the system
can become unstable in exactly the manner you
have described.
Bob . . .
Message 39
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| Subject: | DC-DC Converter or AC Inverter w/ Standby ADI???? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Brian & Debi Shannon" <wings@theshannons.net>
Hi Bob/All,
I'm looking for a 2" standby ADI as a backup to a dual-EFIS panel for my
Glasair with a 14V electric system. Unfortunately it's pretty hard to come
by the 2" standby ADIs at all, much less in a 14v version! I've found a few
28V versions and a few 115vac, 400hz, 3 phase versions. So my question is:
Would it be better to use a DC-DC converter for the 28v version or an
inverter for the AC version. Would there be any problem using the DC-DC
converter found here at
http://www.majorpower.com/dctodc/majorvtc_120.html#MajorVTC120
(MajorVTC120-12-24)? How about the inverter found here at
http://freespace.virgin.net/andy.wright617/inverter.htm ?? The DC-DC
converter appears to be much lighter than most inverters at 2.5 lbs but is a
bit "pricey" at $279 versus about $160 for an inverter. Are there any
issues that would be necessary to consider besides price & weight?
Thanks for any input! I'm sure there will be many others curious about this
issue as the EFIS units become more economically feasible and people start
looking for electric back-up attitude indicators!
Regards,
Brian
---
Message 40
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| Subject: | Re: Right Angle BNC |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorto1537@rogers.com>
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
><bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
>
> >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: DHPHKH@aol.com
>>
>>Gang,
>> A few months ago somebody asked about crimp-on right angle female BNC
>> connectors. Bob mentioned using a right angle adapter. Has anyone yet
>> found a source for a decent crimp-on right angle?
>
> There are a number of sources . . . but none that
> I know of that will install with the tool we sell.
> AMP 225974-2 is a suitable part that sells for $22.00
> qty of 1. The hand tool that installs it is about $400.00
>
> If it were my airplane, I'd install a cable male connector,
> mate it with a right angle adapter and shrink a chunk
> of double walled tubing over the interface to make it
> permanent. . . . the po' boy's right angle connector.
>
> Bob . .
>
What about the Amphenol 31-334, available from Newark as PN 39F1443
for $28.92? It needs the Amphenol CTL-1 tool, which Mouser lists for
about $50. Is this connector comptiable with the RCT-2 tool that B&C
sells?
I suddenly developed an interest in 90 deg coax connectors tonight,
as I just discovered that my avionics installation leaves a bit less
room for the RG-400 coax than I had hoped. So, I spent a little
while flipping pages of an old Newark catalog and found:
90 deg BNC 50 ohm jack plug - part number 89F2919 - $18.11 - TYCO ELECTRONICS
http://www.newark.com/NewarkWebCommerce/newark/en_US/support/catalog/productDetail.jsp?id=89F2919
90 deg BNC crimp on jack plug (UG-306)- part number 39F071 - $17.39
- AMPHENOL
http://www.newark.com/NewarkWebCommerce/newark/en_US/support/catalog/productDetail.jsp?id=39F071
90 deg BNC crimp on jack plug (UG-306A)- part number 39F1071 -
$12.62 - AMPHENOL
http://www.newark.com/NewarkWebCommerce/newark/en_US/support/catalog/productDetail.jsp?id=39F1071
Questions - should there be enough performance difference between the
crimp on connector vs the jack plug to make this a consideration?
I've got to connect to COM, NAV, G/S and GPS antennae.
I've searched the web, but I can't find what the difference is
between a UG-306 and a UG-306A connector (other than about $5). Can
anyone shed any light on this?
Thanks,
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/
Message 41
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Jerzy Krasinski <krasinski@direcway.com>
Steve Sampson wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21@london.edu>
>
>I am about to order some LEDs. Roughly how many mcd do I need for the
>following:
>
>1. For a red flood for the cabin if all else fails so I can see in dim
>light?
>2. A white one to provide some light in the baggage compartement to
>find something in the dark when the plane is parked?
>
>Thanks, Steve.
>
Steve,
l000 mcd = 1cd is approximately as much light as from 1 regular candle.
Jerzy
>
>
>
>
Message 42
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Tom Parks" <flightwork2@msn.com>
Bob!
If I wire the switch per the terminal number sequence shown in Fig 11-11 of Aeroconnection,
it works as advertised regarding closing the contactor in the bat
and alt position. Figure 7 of the ABMM schematic shows a (2-10) switch terminals
only. The (2-10) switch terminals shown in the notes section of Figure 7
indicates a S700 (2-10) switch, mounted keyway up. I'll use the terminal layout
shown in Fig 11-11 for all (2-10) switches (obtained from B&C) for my aircraft
wiring.
regards,
Tom Parks RV-7 N620CF
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