Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:27 AM - Grounding strobe shield on RV's? (czechsix@juno.com)
2. 02:35 AM - Best Brand of 2.25 in Turn & Bank (James Foerster)
3. 04:44 AM - Re: Best Brand of 2.25 in Turn & Bank (Shannon Knoepflein)
4. 05:15 AM - Re: DC-DC Converter or AC Inverter w/ Standby ADI???? (Shannon Knoepflein)
5. 06:28 AM - Re: Best Brand of 2.25 in Turn & Bank (BobsV35B@aol.com)
6. 06:31 AM - Re: LEDs (Shaun Simpkins)
7. 07:49 AM - Re: DC-DC Converter or AC Inverter w/ (richard@riley.net)
8. 07:50 AM - Re: Strobes (richard@riley.net)
9. 08:00 AM - Deltran On Board Charger (DHPHKH@aol.com)
10. 08:11 AM - Re: Strobes (lm4@juno.com)
11. 08:17 AM - Re: Switches and AC (Wendell & Jean Durr)
12. 08:31 AM - OT: NAV Radio Squelch (Jon Finley)
13. 09:01 AM - Re: Switches and AC (Jon Finley)
14. 09:01 AM - Re: Deltran On Board Charger (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
15. 09:11 AM - Re: OT: NAV Radio Squelch (Matt Prather)
16. 09:30 AM - Re: LEDs (Larry Bowen)
17. 09:33 AM - Re: Grounding strobe shield on RV's? (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
18. 09:57 AM - Re: switch keyway question (HCRV6@aol.com)
19. 10:07 AM - Re: LEDs (Mark A. Wood)
20. 10:25 AM - Re: Switches and AC (Jim Jewell)
21. 10:32 AM - BNA seminar (Sam Buchanan)
22. 10:56 AM - Re: switch keyway question (Vincent Welch)
23. 11:58 AM - inexpensive low output alternator (Mark A. Wood)
24. 12:14 PM - Re: Switches and AC (Wendell & Jean Durr)
25. 03:19 PM - SEC: UNCLASSIFIED - BUS INSTABILITY (Francis, David CMDR)
26. 05:26 PM - Re: SEC: UNCLASSIFIED - BUS INSTABILITY (Cy Galley)
27. 05:33 PM - Re: Deltran On Board Charger (DHPHKH@aol.com)
28. 06:37 PM - Wiring harness heads up (Kevin Horton)
29. 06:49 PM - Re: Wiring harness heads up (Benford2@aol.com)
30. 07:19 PM - Re: switch keyway question (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
31. 07:40 PM - Re: Wiring harness heads up (Kevin Horton)
32. 08:36 PM - Re: Deltran On Board Charger (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
33. 08:37 PM - Gotta pack up again . . . (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
34. 08:44 PM - Re: inexpensive low output alternator (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
35. 08:50 PM - Re: Wiring harness heads up (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Grounding strobe shield on RV's? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: czechsix@juno.com
Bob,
I'm interested in getting the strobe wire shield grounding philosophy
clarified....understand you recommend for composite aircraft to ground
the shielding to the strobe head body, whereas on a metal aircraft to
leave the shield at the strobe head end unconnected. Is that correct?
Now, on the RV series, of course most of the wing is metal BUT the
wingtip is fiberglass so the strobe body is not mounted directly on the
metal airframe. So what do you recommend in this case?
I think most guys with RV's leave the strobe head end of the shielding
unconnected but a friend with an RV-8 using this scheme has some strobe
noise coming through the headset. Have no idea if grounding the strobe
ends of the shielding would make a difference hence the question (he has
the power supply end grounded).
Thanks,
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A N2D firewall forward stuff...
Message 2
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| Subject: | Best Brand of 2.25 in Turn & Bank |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "James Foerster" <jmfpublic@attbi.com>
I dutifully read the List with search term of 'turn & bank'. After 99
postings, I still don't know what brand of Turn & Bank is best. Aircraft
Spruce lists a 2.25in unit for $1187. It has a brushless motor, which
should make it more reliable. Another 2.25 in unit is unlighted, and goes
for $$810: presumably with a brush motor. The 3.2 in units run less at
$662. Anyone know if the smaller units are less reliable? Or more reliable
due to newer manufacture? I need to buy one soon, and old Bob convinced me
that I'd rather had the T&B instead of the TC. My panel is tight, and the
smaller unit would be preferable--and more expensive.
Jim Foerster J400
Message 3
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| Subject: | Best Brand of 2.25 in Turn & Bank |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Shannon Knoepflein" <kycshann@kyol.net>
The backup unit that Lancair Avionics is putting in my panel is a
Mid-Continent 2.25" unit, with a part number of 5550-8340-N5L. Hope
that helps, not sure of price, as it is all bunched in with other flight
instruments.
---
Shannon Knoepflein <---> kycshann@kyol.net
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of James
Foerster
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Best Brand of 2.25 in Turn & Bank
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "James Foerster"
<jmfpublic@attbi.com>
I dutifully read the List with search term of 'turn & bank'. After 99
postings, I still don't know what brand of Turn & Bank is best.
Aircraft
Spruce lists a 2.25in unit for $1187. It has a brushless motor, which
should make it more reliable. Another 2.25 in unit is unlighted, and
goes
for $$810: presumably with a brush motor. The 3.2 in units run less at
$662. Anyone know if the smaller units are less reliable? Or more
reliable
due to newer manufacture? I need to buy one soon, and old Bob convinced
me
that I'd rather had the T&B instead of the TC. My panel is tight, and
the
smaller unit would be preferable--and more expensive.
Jim Foerster J400
Message 4
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| Subject: | DC-DC Converter or AC Inverter w/ Standby ADI???? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Shannon Knoepflein" <kycshann@kyol.net>
If by ADI you mean a backup attitude instrument, I would suggest a
refurbished 2" USAF JET Attitude Gyro unit, 501-1131-01. It is 14V, and
under $2000 I believe. From the people I've talked to that have it, it
performs flawlessly.
If that's not what you meant by ADI, ignore.
---
Shannon Knoepflein <---> kycshann@kyol.net
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Brian
& Debi Shannon
Subject: AeroElectric-List: DC-DC Converter or AC Inverter w/ Standby
ADI????
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Brian & Debi Shannon"
<wings@theshannons.net>
Hi Bob/All,
I'm looking for a 2" standby ADI as a backup to a dual-EFIS panel for
my
Glasair with a 14V electric system. Unfortunately it's pretty hard to
come
by the 2" standby ADIs at all, much less in a 14v version! I've found a
few
28V versions and a few 115vac, 400hz, 3 phase versions. So my question
is:
Would it be better to use a DC-DC converter for the 28v version or an
inverter for the AC version. Would there be any problem using the DC-DC
converter found here at
http://www.majorpower.com/dctodc/majorvtc_120.html#MajorVTC120
(MajorVTC120-12-24)? How about the inverter found here at
http://freespace.virgin.net/andy.wright617/inverter.htm ?? The DC-DC
converter appears to be much lighter than most inverters at 2.5 lbs but
is a
bit "pricey" at $279 versus about $160 for an inverter. Are there any
issues that would be necessary to consider besides price & weight?
Thanks for any input! I'm sure there will be many others curious about
this
issue as the EFIS units become more economically feasible and people
start
looking for electric back-up attitude indicators!
Regards,
Brian
---
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Best Brand of 2.25 in Turn & Bank |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: BobsV35B@aol.com
In a message dated 2/4/03 4:35:54 AM Central Standard Time,
jmfpublic@attbi.com writes:
> old Bob convinced me
> that I'd rather had the T&B instead of the TC. My panel is tight, and the
> smaller unit would be preferable--and more expensive.
>
Good Morning Jim,
Welcome to the ranks of believers!
Unfortunately, my instrument guru tells me that none of the currently
available crop of 2.25 rate instruments, TC or T&B, are much good. They both
have comparably high failure rates.
My first one lasted about 500 hours and the second one about two thousand
hours. I could tell the first one was going bad by the sound it made. The
second one sounded nice and quiet right up to the day it died. I intend to
take it to my guru to see if we can determine the failure point, but haven't
gotten around to doing so as yet.
I decided to go back to the full size T&B because I think it helps force me
to keep it in my normal scan.
After Itzahk Jacoby was killed at Newark, I tried to analyze my technique and
realized that I had not been checking the rate instrument as much as I
thought I had.
If you are not familiar with Itzahk's accident findings, it appears that both
his HSI and his TC had failed.
If it is a choice between a 2.25 TC or a 2.25 T&B, I would still opt for the
T&B, but none of the smaller instruments seem to be as reliable as the
ancient sized ones.
If you must stick to the little bitty ones, listen to several, if you can,
and pick the one that sounds the smoothest.
Sure wish Jim Younkin was developing his stuff for certificated machines. It
would be nice to be able to get something that was designed after World War
One!
Happy Skies,
Old Bob
Message 6
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Shaun Simpkins" <shauns@hevanet.com>
The illuminating power of a light source depends not only on the overall
light output but on the
solid angle over which it radiates its light. Since an LED is a diffuse
light source, it's tricky to
constrain the light pattern with an external reflector. There are so many
LED fixtures now out
on the market that I would go there first before rolling my own. I'd
suggest checking into
http://www.ledmuseumm.org
one of the many LED enthusiast websites, for guidance, or
http://www.theledlight.com
for LED flashlights, replacement bulbs, fixtures, and raw LEDs.
One builder I know was successful in replacing the lamp in the ACS Mini
Eyeball Cockpit Light
(11-07800) with a high-intensity red LED for use as a cockpit flood. Only
works for planes with
roofs.
Another possibility is to use one of the many LED headlamp fixtures
available for campers.
These are usually 2-3 bulb affairs that run on tiny batteries but throw a
lot of light for around $20.
Some have switchable colors.
Suitable gooseneck LED fixtures are available, as are LED "brick" fixtures,
at automotive
customization shops.
Shaun
>
> >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Steve Sampson"
<SSampson.SLN21@london.edu>
> >
> >I am about to order some LEDs. Roughly how many mcd do I need for the
> >following:
> >
> >1. For a red flood for the cabin if all else fails so I can see in
dim
> >light?
> >2. A white one to provide some light in the baggage compartement
to
> >find something in the dark when the plane is parked?
> >
> >Thanks, Steve.
> >
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: DC-DC Converter or AC Inverter w/ |
Standby ADI????
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: richard@riley.net
Brian, I'm using a single panel Bluemountain EFIS, and bought a 115 v 400
hz 3 ph AI. I'm powering it with one of Andy Wright's inverters - haven't
installed it yet, so I can't say anything good or bad, but it works nicely
on the bench.
Can I ask where you found the 28V, and how much they run?
At 08:12 PM 2/3/03 -0600, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Brian & Debi Shannon"
><wings@theshannons.net>
>
>Hi Bob/All,
>
> I'm looking for a 2" standby ADI as a backup to a dual-EFIS panel for my
>Glasair with a 14V electric system. Unfortunately it's pretty hard to come
>by the 2" standby ADIs at all, much less in a 14v version! I've found a few
>28V versions and a few 115vac, 400hz, 3 phase versions. So my question is:
>Would it be better to use a DC-DC converter for the 28v version or an
>inverter for the AC version. Would there be any problem using the DC-DC
>converter found here at
>http://www.majorpower.com/dctodc/majorvtc_120.html#MajorVTC120
>(MajorVTC120-12-24)? How about the inverter found here at
>http://freespace.virgin.net/andy.wright617/inverter.htm ?? The DC-DC
>converter appears to be much lighter than most inverters at 2.5 lbs but is a
>bit "pricey" at $279 versus about $160 for an inverter. Are there any
>issues that would be necessary to consider besides price & weight?
>
>Thanks for any input! I'm sure there will be many others curious about this
>issue as the EFIS units become more economically feasible and people start
>looking for electric back-up attitude indicators!
>
>Regards,
> Brian
>---
>
>
Message 8
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: richard@riley.net
At 04:04 PM 2/3/03 -0800, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: frequent flyer <jdhcv@yahoo.com>
>
>That was it Scott, any suggestions why I would want to
>spend $50 more for 90W as opposed to 60W?
If your strobe tubes will take the extra power (like, they aren't the
Aeroflash wingtip strobes) the 90 w (45 w per side, if you're only running
2) is that much brighter.
Message 9
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| Subject: | Deltran On Board Charger |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: DHPHKH@aol.com
Gang,
Ran across something interesting. Deltran has 21 oz automatic battery
charger designed for on-board installation, with software tailored for RG
batteries. If you have battery dependent ignitions, you could simply plug
the airplane into an AC outlet anywhere, and always depart for the next
flight with fully charged batteries.
http://www.batterytender.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=35&products_id=46
Dan Horton
Message 10
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: lm4@juno.com
Jack,
I don't know if this answers your question or not. I presume
your talking about Strobes & More equipment. The 90 watt power
supply has two output sockets. If you wire three strobes to one
socket you will get 90 watts charge to three lights, all at once.
30 watts / strobe. If you wire two strobes to one socket and a third
to another socket you will get 90 watts to the latter and 90 watts to
the two. 45 watts / strobe. The 90 watt unit has instructions that
allow you to operate the system at high or low power. Add another
switch and you can operate them, for example, at double flash or
quintuple flash. E.G. high power, quintuple flash near controlled
fields daytime--double flash, low power on the ramp. HTH
Larry Mac Donald
Rochester N.Y.
do not archive
On Mon, 3 Feb 2003 16:04:44 -0800 (PST) frequent flyer <jdhcv@yahoo.com>
writes:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: frequent flyer
> <jdhcv@yahoo.com>
>
> That was it Scott, any suggestions why I would want to
> spend $50 more for 90W as opposed to 60W?
>
> Jack
>
> do not archive
>
>
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/AeroElectric-List.htm
> Digests:http://www.matronics.com/digest/aeroelectric-list
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Switches and AC |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Wendell & Jean Durr" <legacy147@cableone.net>
go to the list archives
how does one do that? (Please forgive my ignorance)
Message 12
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| Subject: | OT: NAV Radio Squelch |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jon Finley" <jon@finleyweb.net>
Hi all,
This is a completely off topic question - I apologize.
The nav volume on my NAV/COM (King KX-155) will not "disengage".
Normally pulling the nav volume knob out turn it "on" and then you turn
the knob to increase/decrease the volume. When my nav volume knob is
"in" and set to minimum volume I can still hear the nav signal. Anyone
know if this is a simple adjustment that I can make, something that a
radio shop can fix, or worse???
Thanks!
Jon Finley
N90MG Q2 - Subaru EJ-22 DD - 440 Hrs. TT - 0 Hrs Engine
Apple Valley, Minnesota
http://www.FinleyWeb.net/default.asp?id=96
Message 13
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jon Finley" <jon@finleyweb.net>
Look down about this message about 50 lines to where it says either
"Search Engine:" or "Archives:". These addresses are included at the
end of EVERY message coming out of this list server. The search engine
allows you to search by keyword. The archives are all message by subject
(alphabetic), I believe).
Jon
Do not archive
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On
> Behalf Of Wendell & Jean Durr
> Sent: Tuesday, February 04, 2003 10:17 AM
> To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Switches and AC
>
>
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Wendell & Jean Durr"
> --> <legacy147@cableone.net>
>
> go to the list archives
>
> how does one do that? (Please forgive my ignorance)
>
>
> ==========
> Matronics Forums.
> ==========
> List members.
> ==========
> ==========
>
>
>
>
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Deltran On Board Charger |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 10:59 AM 2/4/2003 -0500, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: DHPHKH@aol.com
>
>Gang,
> Ran across something interesting. Deltran has 21 oz automatic battery
>charger designed for on-board installation, with software tailored for RG
>batteries. If you have battery dependent ignitions, you could simply plug
>the airplane into an AC outlet anywhere, and always depart for the next
>flight with fully charged batteries.
>
>http://www.batterytender.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=35&products_id=46
If you store your airplane for extended periods of time
(many months), some type of smart, float charger may
be beneficial. RG battery self discharge rates
are on the order of 2-3% per MONTH. Further,
most folks who want the ultimate in battery performance
will have a new battery every year. I'll suggest
that time and expense to incorporate such a device
in a modern airplane will have next to zero return
on investment.
My father-in-law has a small fork lift in his
business that got parked for 90 days and the
FLOODED battery ran down and destroyed itself.
It was one of those long, skinny, odd-ball
3EE series batteries that cost about $200
each. He put a new battery in and the fork lift
is up and running. Given that he is trying
to spin this business down, the new battery
is at risk of self-destruction too . . .
I'm building a 13.0 volt float charger to
clip onto the parked fork lift to keep this
from happening again. Now, if I could only
figure out a way to get an RG battery
fitted to the machine . . .
Bob . . .
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: OT: NAV Radio Squelch |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Matt Prather" <mprather@spro.net>
Did this just happen, or has it been like this since installed? I wonder
if there are multiple audio outputs from the radio, one of which might be
"line-level" (to go to an audio panel) and therefore not volume controlled.
Totally speculating.
Regards,
Matt-
do not archive
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jon Finley"
> <jon@finleyweb.net>
>
> Hi all,
>
> This is a completely off topic question - I apologize.
>
> The nav volume on my NAV/COM (King KX-155) will not "disengage".
> Normally pulling the nav volume knob out turn it "on" and then you turn
> the knob to increase/decrease the volume. When my nav volume knob is
> "in" and set to minimum volume I can still hear the nav signal. Anyone
> know if this is a simple adjustment that I can make, something that a
> radio shop can fix, or worse???
>
> Thanks!
>
> Jon Finley
> N90MG Q2 - Subaru EJ-22 DD - 440 Hrs. TT - 0 Hrs Engine
> Apple Valley, Minnesota
> http://www.FinleyWeb.net/default.asp?id=96
>
>
Message 16
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@BowenAero.com>
Huh? Roofs?
--
Larry Bowen
Larry@BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
2003: The Year of Flight!
Shaun Simpkins said:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Shaun Simpkins"
> <shauns@hevanet.com>
>
[snip]
> One builder I know was successful in replacing the lamp in the ACS Mini
> Eyeball Cockpit Light
> (11-07800) with a high-intensity red LED for use as a cockpit flood.
> Only works for planes with
> roofs.
[snip]
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Grounding strobe shield on RV's? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 03:24 AM 2/4/2003 -0600, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: czechsix@juno.com
>
>Bob,
>
>I'm interested in getting the strobe wire shield grounding philosophy
>clarified....understand you recommend for composite aircraft to ground
>the shielding to the strobe head body, whereas on a metal aircraft to
>leave the shield at the strobe head end unconnected. Is that correct?
Yes.
>Now, on the RV series, of course most of the wing is metal BUT the
>wingtip is fiberglass so the strobe body is not mounted directly on the
>metal airframe. So what do you recommend in this case?
Ground the base of the strobe head to the shield . . .
>I think most guys with RV's leave the strobe head end of the shielding
>unconnected but a friend with an RV-8 using this scheme has some strobe
>noise coming through the headset. Have no idea if grounding the strobe
>ends of the shielding would make a difference hence the question (he has
>the power supply end grounded).
Depending on what conditions he is hearing the strobe noise,
grounding the strobe head via shield on wiring may help. Need
more details on kind of noise and conditions under which it
happens. See chapter on noise . . .
Bob . . .
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: switch keyway question |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: HCRV6@aol.com
In a message dated 2/3/03 12:06:52 PM Pacific Standard Time,
dan@rvproject.com writes:
<< When drilling your panel for toggle switches, is the keyway slot generally
ignored? I mean...maybe if you have the panel laser cut you could have the
keyway notch integrated into the cutout, but when drilling your own 15/32"
holes there doesn't seem to be a good way to do this. Does simply using a
lock washer of some sort prevent switch rotation?
>>
Most quality toggle switches, at least the ones that Bob supplies through
B&C, come with an anti-rotation washer that requires a second small hole to
engage the tang on the washer. They work great.
Do not archive
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, starting firewall forward
Message 19
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Mark A. Wood" <Mark.Wood@uvm.edu>
You need something above your head (a roof) to put the lamp on.
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@BowenAero.com>
>
>Huh? Roofs?
>
>--
>Larry Bowen
>Larry@BowenAero.com
>http://BowenAero.com
>2003: The Year of Flight!
>
>Shaun Simpkins said:
>> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Shaun Simpkins"
>> <shauns@hevanet.com>
>>
>[snip]
>> One builder I know was successful in replacing the lamp in the ACS Mini
>> Eyeball Cockpit Light
>> (11-07800) with a high-intensity red LED for use as a cockpit flood.
>> Only works for planes with
>> roofs.
>[snip]
>
>
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Switches and AC |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
Hi Wendell,
Try the following:
Go to http://www.matronics.com/ the source of some great products and all
the various lists. go to the bottom of the page and click on
http://www.matronics.com/ and follow instructions.
Go to http://www.matronics.com/searching/search.html and enter various words
and word combinations and see what you find. Sometimes it takes a bit of
patience to get the info you want. Other times, depending on subject, no
amount of trying will seem to work.
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wendell & Jean Durr" <legacy147@cableone.net>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Switches and AC
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Wendell & Jean Durr"
<legacy147@cableone.net>
>
> go to the list archives
>
> how does one do that? (Please forgive my ignorance)
>
>
Message 21
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
Bob,
I got very positive reviews as expected from the Tennessee Valley RV
Builders Group members who attended the Nashville seminar this past
weekend. I hope the TVRVBG bunch didn't embarrass the rest of the class
what with their drooling and other unsociable behavior. ;-)
Any members of this list who have an opportunity to attend one of
'Lectric Bob's seminars really need to consider enrollment. He may be
too modest to say so, but it will be some of the most valuable time and
dollars you can spend while educating yourself about the wiring
architecture on our custom-built planes.
Sam Buchanan (RV-6)
"The RV Journal" http://thervjournal.com
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: switch keyway question |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Vincent Welch" <welchvincent@hotmail.com>
I have several toggle switches that came without anti-rotation washers.
Does anyone know where the washers can be purchased seperately?
Vince Welch
N327W
>From: HCRV6@aol.com
>Reply-To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
>To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: switch keyway question
>Date: Tue, 4 Feb 2003 12:56:42 EST
>
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: HCRV6@aol.com
>
>In a message dated 2/3/03 12:06:52 PM Pacific Standard Time,
>dan@rvproject.com writes:
>
><< When drilling your panel for toggle switches, is the keyway slot
>generally
> ignored? I mean...maybe if you have the panel laser cut you could have
>the
> keyway notch integrated into the cutout, but when drilling your own
>15/32"
> holes there doesn't seem to be a good way to do this. Does simply using
>a
> lock washer of some sort prevent switch rotation?
> >>
>Most quality toggle switches, at least the ones that Bob supplies through
>B&C, come with an anti-rotation washer that requires a second small hole to
>engage the tang on the washer. They work great.
>
>Do not archive
>
>Harry Crosby
>Pleasanton, California
>RV-6, starting firewall forward
>
>
Message 23
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| Subject: | inexpensive low output alternator |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Mark A. Wood" <Mark.Wood@uvm.edu>
Bob
I am building a light VFR aircraft (Zenith 601) and I am looking for
an inexpensive low output alternator to connect to my Continental
O-200. I have heard people talk about the alternator from a John Deer
lawn tractor and was looking for any input on using this.
I have used the drive gear from an old generator which I cut down and
I plan to put a pulley on the shaft to drive the alternator.
1 Is using this alternator a reasonable way to go? (in your opinion
or feedback from anyone on the list is welcome.)
2. This is a permanent magnet type alternator, do you know how the
voltage is regulated, and do I need an external regulator?
3. Do you know what RPM range the alternator would need to turn? I
can adjust this by the ratio of the pulleys.
Thanks
Mark Wood
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: Switches and AC |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Wendell & Jean Durr" <legacy147@cableone.net>
Thanx. My learning curve is almost vertical
Message 25
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|
| Subject: | SEC: UNCLASSIFIED - BUS INSTABILITY |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Francis, David CMDR" <David.Francis@defence.gov.au>
Bob, is this another example of system instability that just needs a cleanup
of bus to voltage regulator, or is it more:
Aircraft is an elderly Pawnee, amps are stable at all times. There are two
voltage cycles, one imposed on the other.
Normally the voltage needle oscillates over 0.5 volt about 3-5 times per
second. If I turn on the strobe, the voltage drops 1.5 volts in time with
firing of the strobe, additonal to the underlying 0.5 cycle. The radios are
noisy all the time. Should this be fixed, if so how?
Regards, David Francis
Email: David.Francis@defence.gov.au <mailto:David.Francis@defence.gov.au>
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: SEC: UNCLASSIFIED - BUS INSTABILITY |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Cy Galley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
Do you have the Cessna Flashing Beacon? Our Skyhawk did the same thing
until we reversed the connections for the large resistor and the light.
Cy Galley - Bellanca Champion Club
Newsletter Editor & EAA TC
www.bellanca-championclub.com
We support Aeroncas
----- Original Message -----
From: "Francis, David CMDR" <David.Francis@defence.gov.au>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: SEC: UNCLASSIFIED - BUS INSTABILITY
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Francis, David CMDR"
<David.Francis@defence.gov.au>
>
>
> Bob, is this another example of system instability that just needs a
cleanup
> of bus to voltage regulator, or is it more:
>
> Aircraft is an elderly Pawnee, amps are stable at all times. There are two
> voltage cycles, one imposed on the other.
>
> Normally the voltage needle oscillates over 0.5 volt about 3-5 times per
> second. If I turn on the strobe, the voltage drops 1.5 volts in time with
> firing of the strobe, additonal to the underlying 0.5 cycle. The radios
are
> noisy all the time. Should this be fixed, if so how?
>
> Regards, David Francis
>
> Email: David.Francis@defence.gov.au <mailto:David.Francis@defence.gov.au>
>
>
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: Deltran On Board Charger |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: DHPHKH@aol.com
Bob writes:
<<I'll suggest that time and expense to incorporate such a device in a modern airplane
will have next to zero return on investment.>>
You may be right, but it's still fun to explore the "why".
Subject is an RV8A with dual Lightspeeds. I've declined to install an APU plug,
as it seems kinda dumb to help crank and launch a battery dependent airplane
with low batteries.
At 21 oz and less than $100, the charger doesn't weigh much more than an APU
plug, or cost much more either. You always have it with you. You know it has
the right charge cycle and rates, unlike the relic in the back of the hanger.
The little green light tells you when you've reached full charge, and it won't
overcharge. It would allow recharging without removing the rear of the RV
baggage compartment.
Return on investment? Fail an alternator on the outbound trip, and after a
full recharge you could fly your battery ignition airplane some reasonable distance
back to home base. I'll bet you would save more than $100 compared to
repairs in a foreign port <g>
No, I haven't thought it all through yet, but it is an interesting idea.
Dan
Message 28
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aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
| Subject: | Wiring harness heads up |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorto1537@rogers.com>
I've just had a bad wiring harness experience that I want to share
with you, as it highlights a potential safety problem.
I bought my avionics from a popular avionics vendor, and I had him
make up the wiring harness. Well, this wiring harness has been a
nightmare. Two pins were swapped on the transponder, which meant the
transponder and altitude encode wouldn't talk to each other. I
swapped the pins and everything is OK there now. On the intercom,
the PTT and mic wires were swapped between the Com 1 and Com 2 spots.
If I had selected Com 1 to transmit, I would have been transmitting
on Com 2, but listening on Com 1. OK, I can fix that. I found it on
the bench when I decided to check every wire with an ohmmeter. It
would have been a royal PITA to find and fix if I hadn't found the
problem until I was doing post-installation functional checks.
Well tonight I found the problem that has stopped me in my tracks.
The Com 1 power line is supposed to get a 10a fuse, but the wire is
only 20 AWG. It needs to be 18 AWG if it is going to get a 10a fuse.
If I had simply followed the notes the vendor sent me, and I ever had
a short, I could have a smoking wire before the fuse blew. If I use
a 7a fuse to match the wire I could be looking at nuisance fuse
blowing.
So, please pay close attention to the details of any vendor supplied
wiring harness. Don't simply assume that it must be OK just because
it comes from a reputable vendor.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/
Message 29
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| Subject: | Re: Wiring harness heads up |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Benford2@aol.com
In a message dated 2/4/2003 7:37:58 PM Mountain Standard Time,
khorto1537@rogers.com writes:
>
> I've just had a bad wiring harness experience that I want to share
> with you, as it highlights a potential safety problem.
>
> I bought my avionics from a popular avionics vendor, and I had him
> make up the wiring harness. Well, this wiring harness has been a
> nightmare. Two pins were swapped on the transponder, which meant the
> transponder and altitude encode wouldn't talk to each other. I
> swapped the pins and everything is OK there now. On the intercom,
> the PTT and mic wires were swapped between the Com 1 and Com 2 spots.
> If I had selected Com 1 to transmit, I would have been transmitting
> on Com 2, but listening on Com 1. OK, I can fix that. I found it on
> the bench when I decided to check every wire with an ohmmeter. It
> would have been a royal PITA to find and fix if I hadn't found the
> problem until I was doing post-installation functional checks.
>
> Well tonight I found the problem that has stopped me in my tracks.
> The Com 1 power line is supposed to get a 10a fuse, but the wire is
> only 20 AWG. It needs to be 18 AWG if it is going to get a 10a fuse.
> If I had simply followed the notes the vendor sent me, and I ever had
> a short, I could have a smoking wire before the fuse blew. If I use
> a 7a fuse to match the wire I could be looking at nuisance fuse
> blowing.
>
> So, please pay close attention to the details of any vendor supplied
> wiring harness. Don't simply assume that it must be OK just because
> it comes from a reputable vendor.
> --
> Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
> Ottawa, Canada
> http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/
>
Do tell all of us the name of this vendor so we can steer real clear of them.
I just finished my panel and it was ALOT of work. I am sure everything is
connected correctly. You were smart by checking your harness while it was
still on the bench. You can probably run another 18 ga wire on the outside of
your bundle and disable the smaller wire. I would bet a 7 amp fuse will work
without blowing out though.
Message 30
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| Subject: | Re: switch keyway question |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 01:55 PM 2/4/2003 -0500, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Vincent Welch"
><welchvincent@hotmail.com>
>
>I have several toggle switches that came without anti-rotation washers.
>Does anyone know where the washers can be purchased seperately?
>
>Vince Welch
>N327W
Send me your address and how many you need . . .
I'll mail them to you.
Bob . . .
Message 31
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| Subject: | Re: Wiring harness heads up |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorto1537@rogers.com>
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Benford2@aol.com
>
>In a message dated 2/4/2003 7:37:58 PM Mountain Standard Time,
>khorto1537@rogers.com writes:
>
>
>Do tell all of us the name of this vendor so we can steer real clear of them.
>I just finished my panel and it was ALOT of work. I am sure everything is
>connected correctly. You were smart by checking your harness while it was
>still on the bench. You can probably run another 18 ga wire on the outside of
>your bundle and disable the smaller wire. I would bet a 7 amp fuse will work
>without blowing out though.
>
I'd rather not name names. This vendor has lots of satisfied
customers, and I have never heard anyone else complain about a
problem.
Any vendor can screw up a wiring harness. So no matter who you buy
from you should give the harness a good check out on the bench. That
was really the point of my message, rather than to skewer a vendor
whose employee had a bad day.
Kevin
Message 32
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| Subject: | Re: Deltran On Board Charger |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 08:32 PM 2/4/2003 -0500, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: DHPHKH@aol.com
>
>Bob writes:
><<I'll suggest that time and expense to incorporate such a device in a
>modern airplane will have next to zero return on investment.>>
>
> You may be right, but it's still fun to explore the "why".
>
> Subject is an RV8A with dual Lightspeeds. I've declined to install an
> APU plug, as it seems kinda dumb to help crank and launch a battery
> dependent airplane with low batteries.
>
> At 21 oz and less than $100, the charger doesn't weigh much more than
> an APU plug, or cost much more either. You always have it with you. You
> know it has the right charge cycle and rates, unlike the relic in the
> back of the hanger. The little green light tells you when you've reached
> full charge, and it won't overcharge. It would allow recharging without
> removing the rear of the RV baggage compartment.
>
> Return on investment? Fail an alternator on the outbound trip, and
> after a full recharge you could fly your battery ignition airplane some
> reasonable distance back to home base. I'll bet you would save more than
> $100 compared to repairs in a foreign port <g>
>
> No, I haven't thought it all through yet, but it is an interesting idea.
If you were flying a Ford gear driven alternator on a C-172
fitted with a flooded battery that was 3-4 years old, then
I would agree, you need everything going for you that you
can get. That same $100 will by two years worth of
batteries for a yearly change-out cycle that would
(if the airplane is flown every two months or so)
guarantee a level of reliability that all the chargers
in the world cannot bestow on a Cessna.
Bob . . .
Message 33
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| Subject: | Gotta pack up again . . . |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
RAC is sending me out to Whippany, NJ for the rest of
the week. See you all Saturday morning. . .
Bob . . .
|-------------------------------------------------------|
| The man who does not read good books has no advantage |
| over the man who cannot read them. |
| - Mark Twain |
|-------------------------------------------------------|
Message 34
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| Subject: | Re: inexpensive low output alternator |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 02:57 PM 2/4/2003 -0500, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Mark A. Wood" <Mark.Wood@uvm.edu>
>
>Bob
>I am building a light VFR aircraft (Zenith 601) and I am looking for
>an inexpensive low output alternator to connect to my Continental
>O-200. I have heard people talk about the alternator from a John Deer
>lawn tractor and was looking for any input on using this.
>
>I have used the drive gear from an old generator which I cut down and
>I plan to put a pulley on the shaft to drive the alternator.
>
>1 Is using this alternator a reasonable way to go? (in your opinion
>or feedback from anyone on the list is welcome.)
>
>2. This is a permanent magnet type alternator, do you know how the
>voltage is regulated, and do I need an external regulator?
>
>3. Do you know what RPM range the alternator would need to turn? I
>can adjust this by the ratio of the pulleys.
If you're proposing a belt-drive adapter, then the
Nipon-Denso 40A machine would be my choice (B&C L-40).
Unless you are experienced at modifying modern
alternator to accept external regulators, consider
using the built in regulator with external OV protection
as shown in
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/crowbar.pdf
Bob . . .
Message 35
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| Subject: | Re: Wiring harness heads up |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 09:34 PM 2/4/2003 -0500, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorto1537@rogers.com>
>
>I've just had a bad wiring harness experience that I want to share
>with you, as it highlights a potential safety problem.
>
>I bought my avionics from a popular avionics vendor, and I had him
>make up the wiring harness. Well, this wiring harness has been a
>nightmare. Two pins were swapped on the transponder, which meant the
>transponder and altitude encode wouldn't talk to each other. I
>swapped the pins and everything is OK there now. On the intercom,
>the PTT and mic wires were swapped between the Com 1 and Com 2 spots.
>If I had selected Com 1 to transmit, I would have been transmitting
>on Com 2, but listening on Com 1. OK, I can fix that. I found it on
>the bench when I decided to check every wire with an ohmmeter. It
>would have been a royal PITA to find and fix if I hadn't found the
>problem until I was doing post-installation functional checks.
>
>Well tonight I found the problem that has stopped me in my tracks.
>The Com 1 power line is supposed to get a 10a fuse, but the wire is
>only 20 AWG. It needs to be 18 AWG if it is going to get a 10a fuse.
>If I had simply followed the notes the vendor sent me, and I ever had
>a short, I could have a smoking wire before the fuse blew. If I use
>a 7a fuse to match the wire I could be looking at nuisance fuse
>blowing.
An 20AWG wire would rise 10 degrees C at 7A continuous . .
which never happens in a transceiver. The 10A protection
recommended is a bit hefty, a 7A fuse (80+ watts into the radio
during transmit) would probably be fine too. There was no
danger imposed by running a 10A fuse in this case, it just
means that the wire gets a bit hotter before the fuse opens
but in no way represents a threat to the wire bundle.
>So, please pay close attention to the details of any vendor supplied
>wiring harness. Don't simply assume that it must be OK just because
>it comes from a reputable vendor.
Sounds like a case of multiple dyslexic pin insertions.
Pretty easy to do. Disappointing tho that they didn't
do their own pin-to-pin ringout of the harness.
Bob . . .
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