Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:00 AM - (Gary Casey)
2. 06:47 AM - Re: OV Protection for Internally Regulated "One Wire" Alternator? ()
3. 07:09 AM - Re: 10324 Bezinque (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
4. 07:13 AM - Re: VR166Pinout (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
5. 07:22 AM - Re: OV Protection for Internally Regulated "One Wire" Alternator? ()
6. 07:29 AM - Re: OV Protection for Internally Regulated "One Wire" (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
7. 07:34 AM - Re: OV Protection for Internally Regulated (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
8. 07:34 AM - Re: Mic wiring (Benford2@aol.com)
9. 07:35 AM - Re: VR166Pinout (Sam Buchanan)
10. 07:50 AM - Starter Contactor ()
11. 07:54 AM - Re: Avionics masters redux (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
12. 08:38 AM - Re: fastons . . . (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
13. 08:40 AM - Re: VR166Pinout (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
14. 08:47 AM - Re: Mic wiring (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
15. 08:51 AM - Re: OV Protection for Internally Regulated (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
16. 11:14 AM - Re: Mic wiring (John Schroeder)
17. 11:50 AM - alternator (cary rhodes)
18. 12:11 PM - Re: alternator (Jon Finley)
19. 12:38 PM - Re: alternator (Michel Therrien)
20. 12:39 PM - Re: alternator (David Aronson)
21. 01:05 PM - Relay diode (Scott Bilinski)
22. 01:49 PM - Re: alternator (Larry Bowen)
23. 02:30 PM - Z-14 (N823ms@aol.com)
24. 03:15 PM - Amp. Meter Shunt (Tom & Cathy Ervin)
25. 05:42 PM - Nav lights, panel lights, strobe lights (William Bernard)
26. 05:56 PM - Re: Nav lights, panel lights, strobe lights (Jon Finley)
27. 07:20 PM - Re: Z-14 (John Schroeder)
Message 1
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Gary Casey" <glcasey@adelphia.net>
<<
I've seen this article and several others in the
same vein. As you have observed, they are
remarkable for their lack of data. These writers
are propagandists, no more than living echoes of
ancient dogma.
As a PhD, Mr Rogers is OBLIGATED to expand
on understanding based on data . . . this guy
might just as well be writing ad copy for
breakfast cereal.>>
I dealt with Tom Rogers a number of times when he was doing an installation
in my Cessna (I'll admit it, we installed an avionics master at the time).
While he is very knowledgeable, I would have bet a weeks pay he didn't have
a PhD, at least not in a technical field. His understanding of the
engineering basics was more of an experience-based one than one founded on
the physics and theoretical. He does make a point that some of the
electronic gizmos don't have power switches, so a "master" is the only way
to turn them off. In my uninformed state (read ignorant) state, the reason
for the master was simple - it's easier to remember to turn one thing on and
off than several. Having said all that, the only reason I can think of to
turn off the radios at all is to eliminate the few amps of draw during
cranking to save every bit of energy for the starter. I once owned a
no-master airplane with several others; there were always radios that were
left on and I often tried to transmit through a radio which I hadn't yet
turned on. It would seem to me two masters in parallel would be a
reasonable approach.
Gary Casey
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: OV Protection for Internally Regulated "One Wire" |
Alternator?
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: <315@cox.net>
I have been looking in my Aeroelectric book at Z-24 and it appears to me
that the way the OV crowbar works is by creating a "short" on the alternator
field control breaker which is connected to the alternator disconnect
contactor. I guess the OV crowbar just trips the 5 amp breaker? Is this
basically a correct way of looking at this?
Since I have an internally regulated alternator that has no external field
wire I am thinking that the alternator disconnect contactor can get its
control voltage from the bus thru the circuit shown in Z-24. It will just
not have the field wire from the alternator to the alternator disconnect
contactor.
Does this look like it will work correctly?
Thanks,
Ned
PS: My alternator utilizes a regulater that "senses" rotor rpm and self
excites at a predetermined rpm. Therefore the field wire is connected to the
brushes internally.
----- Original Message -----
From: <315@cox.net>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: OV Protection for Internally Regulated "One
Wire" Alternator?
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: <315@cox.net>
>
> I acquired an RV6A with a 4.3 L Chevy V6 engine on Tuesday. On Wednesday I
was flying when the voltmeter began indicating 16 volts. It appeared pegged
out. While heading back to the airport I sensed the battery acid smell.
Got on the ground removed and had the alternator tested at O'Reilly's and it
is putting out 25 volts...
>
> I have been reviewing Bob's diagram for OV protection on an internally
regulated alternator
>
> http://216.55.140.222/articles/bleadov.pdf
>
> and am wondering if I can adapt this idea of utilizing a contactor for OV
protection by running a contactor across the "One" wire coming off the
alternator so that it can be either manually isolated or possibly tied to a
Crow-bar Over Voltage Protection Module.
>
> http://www.aeroelectric.com/Catalog/alterntr/alterntr.html
>
> I already checked with the manufacture, PowereMaster, and they tell me it
is not possible for them to make this alternator an externally regulated
model. They will replace the regulator under warranty. I do think that
this is the same unit that B&C modifies for external regulation. But before
spending the extra $$ on the B&C model I would like to see if I can provide
OV protection on this model (model 8172 5.68 lbs).
>
>
http://www.powermastermotorsports.com/Racing/Denso_Alternators/denso_alterna
tors.html
>
> What do you think?
>
> Thanks,
> Ned
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: 10324 Bezinque |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
> Hi Bob,
>
>I was looking at your microphone and PTT drawing. Is there any reason to
>have a connection to the "tip" of the micropone jack, if you have a stick
>mounted PTT? I am wiring mine up and would really like to only use 1
>shielded wire form the Mic jack to my Microair 760 radio.
If you never use it, then obviously there's no
reason to hook it up. I carry a spare hand-held
mic in my flight bag in case the wheel mounted
switches . . . or the mic supplied with the
airplane decides not to work. In this case,
having the tip wired is a necessity.
It's easy to do, cheap, light weight . . . why not?
Bob . . .
|-------------------------------------------------------|
| The man who does not read good books has no advantage |
| over the man who cannot read them. |
| - Mark Twain |
|-------------------------------------------------------|
Message 4
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 11:52 PM 2/13/2003 -0500, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "DAVID REEL" <dreel@cox.net>
>
>I have a VR166 voltage regulator which I intend to use to control Van's 35
>amp alternator. However, It has no pin markings & I need to figure out
>how to connect it. My VR166 has a pin I'll call pin number 1, on the far
>left, followed by a big space to the right, followed by three pins,
>separated by smaller but equal spaces, that I'll call pin number 2, 3, and
>4 continuing to the right. Can anyone look at their successful
>installation and tell me which pin is which? According to figure Z-23 of
>Bob's book,
>
>F goes to alternator field terminal
>A goes to the + voltage source
>S is connected to A
>I is not connected to anything
>
>but, these are equally spaced on the figure so you can't tell which pin is
>which.
>
>Dave Reel, dreel@cox.net
They are in the same order looking down from the top on all
versions of the VR166 . . . terminal "I" is the terminal on
the far left and is the widest spacing from the adjacent
pin. The order is I A S F.
Bob . . .
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: OV Protection for Internally Regulated "One Wire" |
Alternator?
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: <315@cox.net>
Now I see another way of connecting the OV module according to Z-8. It
shows the OV module across the alternator contactor control leads. So when
the OV trips the coil is no lnger energized and opens the feed to the field
shutting down the alternator. However, there is no breaker popped to
indicate what happened. Am I looking at this right?
----- Original Message -----
From: <315@cox.net>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: OV Protection for Internally Regulated "One
Wire" Alternator?
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: <315@cox.net>
>
> I have been looking in my Aeroelectric book at Z-24 and it appears to me
> that the way the OV crowbar works is by creating a "short" on the
alternator
> field control breaker which is connected to the alternator disconnect
> contactor. I guess the OV crowbar just trips the 5 amp breaker? Is this
> basically a correct way of looking at this?
>
> Since I have an internally regulated alternator that has no external field
> wire I am thinking that the alternator disconnect contactor can get its
> control voltage from the bus thru the circuit shown in Z-24. It will just
> not have the field wire from the alternator to the alternator disconnect
> contactor.
>
> Does this look like it will work correctly?
>
> Thanks,
> Ned
>
> PS: My alternator utilizes a regulater that "senses" rotor rpm and self
> excites at a predetermined rpm. Therefore the field wire is connected to
the
> brushes internally.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <315@cox.net>
> To: "Aeroelectric-List@Matronics.Com" <aeroelectric-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: OV Protection for Internally Regulated "One
> Wire" Alternator?
>
>
> > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: <315@cox.net>
> >
> > I acquired an RV6A with a 4.3 L Chevy V6 engine on Tuesday. On Wednesday
I
> was flying when the voltmeter began indicating 16 volts. It appeared
pegged
> out. While heading back to the airport I sensed the battery acid smell.
> Got on the ground removed and had the alternator tested at O'Reilly's and
it
> is putting out 25 volts...
> >
> > I have been reviewing Bob's diagram for OV protection on an internally
> regulated alternator
> >
> > http://216.55.140.222/articles/bleadov.pdf
> >
> > and am wondering if I can adapt this idea of utilizing a contactor for
OV
> protection by running a contactor across the "One" wire coming off the
> alternator so that it can be either manually isolated or possibly tied to
a
> Crow-bar Over Voltage Protection Module.
> >
> > http://www.aeroelectric.com/Catalog/alterntr/alterntr.html
> >
> > I already checked with the manufacture, PowereMaster, and they tell me
it
> is not possible for them to make this alternator an externally regulated
> model. They will replace the regulator under warranty. I do think that
> this is the same unit that B&C modifies for external regulation. But
before
> spending the extra $$ on the B&C model I would like to see if I can
provide
> OV protection on this model (model 8172 5.68 lbs).
> >
> >
>
http://www.powermastermotorsports.com/Racing/Denso_Alternators/denso_alterna
> tors.html
> >
> > What do you think?
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Ned
> >
> >
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: OV Protection for Internally Regulated "One Wire" |
Alternator?
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 08:46 AM 2/14/2003 -0600, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: <315@cox.net>
>
>I have been looking in my Aeroelectric book at Z-24 and it appears to me
>that the way the OV crowbar works is by creating a "short" on the alternator
>field control breaker which is connected to the alternator disconnect
>contactor. I guess the OV crowbar just trips the 5 amp breaker? Is this
>basically a correct way of looking at this?
yes. for info on internal workings and for testing
info on crowbar ov module see
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/crowbar.pdf
>Since I have an internally regulated alternator that has no external field
>wire I am thinking that the alternator disconnect contactor can get its
>control voltage from the bus thru the circuit shown in Z-24.
yes
> It will just
>not have the field wire from the alternator to the alternator disconnect
>contactor.
correct . . . the little wire going into the back of most
internally regulated alternators is for control only . . .
it does not carry field excitation current and therefore
is able to effect shutdown of a runaway alternator. Since
you have the "one wire" alternator, you still use figure
Z-24 . . . you just don't have a connection from the contactor
coil to the alternator control pin.
Bob . . .
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: OV Protection for Internally Regulated |
"One Wire" Alternator?
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 08:37 PM 2/13/2003 -0600, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: <315@cox.net>
>
>I acquired an RV6A with a 4.3 L Chevy V6 engine on Tuesday. On Wednesday I
>was flying when the voltmeter began indicating 16 volts. It appeared
>pegged out. While heading back to the airport I sensed the battery acid
>smell. Got on the ground removed and had the alternator tested at
>O'Reilly's and it is putting out 25 volts...
>
>I have been reviewing Bob's diagram for OV protection on an internally
>regulated alternator
>
>http://216.55.140.222/articles/bleadov.pdf
>
>and am wondering if I can adapt this idea of utilizing a contactor for OV
>protection by running a contactor across the "One" wire coming off the
>alternator so that it can be either manually isolated or possibly tied to
>a Crow-bar Over Voltage Protection Module.
>
>http://www.aeroelectric.com/Catalog/alterntr/alterntr.html
you betcha
>I already checked with the manufacture, PowereMaster, and they tell me it
>is not possible for them to make this alternator an externally regulated
>model. They will replace the regulator under warranty. I do think that
>this is the same unit that B&C modifies for external regulation. But
>before spending the extra $$ on the B&C model I would like to see if I can
>provide OV protection on this model (model 8172 5.68 lbs).
>
>http://www.powermastermotorsports.com/Racing/Denso_Alternators/denso_alternators.html
B&C starts out with new Nipon-Denso alternators with internal
regulators that watch a control wire. They carve out the
internal regulator and machine the casting to install a spacer
to hold things together where some of the regulator parts come out.
They LOOK like a stock ND alternator but the pins in the regulator
connector now connect directly to the hot side of the field.
ND undoubtedly makes some one-wire alternators too . . . but
that's not what B&C starts with.
Bob . . .
Message 8
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Benford2@aol.com
In a message dated 2/14/2003 8:10:30 AM Mountain Standard Time,
bob.nuckolls@cox.net writes:
>
>
> > Hi Bob,
> >
> >I was looking at your microphone and PTT drawing. Is there any reason to
> >have a connection to the "tip" of the micropone jack, if you have a stick
> >mounted PTT? I am wiring mine up and would really like to only use 1
> >shielded wire form the Mic jack to my Microair 760 radio.
>
>
> If you never use it, then obviously there's no
> reason to hook it up. I carry a spare hand-held
> mic in my flight bag in case the wheel mounted
> switches . . . or the mic supplied with the
> airplane decides not to work. In this case,
> having the tip wired is a necessity.
>
> It's easy to do, cheap, light weight . . . why not?
>
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
I have had a debate with the guy at PS Engineering when I wired my plane last
month. He insisted I use a shielded wire on all the PTT circuits and then
told me now that I have purchased my PS1000 ll I needed to have them make up
a harness and buy it from them for $ 235.00 US, Thats what the unit almost
cost. And, there is NO warranty unless I do. Now why in the world would one
need a shielded wire on a circuit like that ?????? I sure hope the
intercom is better then their [clever] marketing scheme. Ben Haas N801BH.
Message 9
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
"Robert L. Nuckolls, III" wrote:
>
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
> >F goes to alternator field terminal
> >A goes to the + voltage source
> >S is connected to A
> >I is not connected to anything
> >
> >but, these are equally spaced on the figure so you can't tell which pin is
> >which.
> >
> >Dave Reel, dreel@cox.net
>
> They are in the same order looking down from the top on all
> versions of the VR166 . . . terminal "I" is the terminal on
> the far left and is the widest spacing from the adjacent
> pin. The order is I A S F.
>
> Bob . . .
What is the "I" terminal? Is it for an "Idiot" (low/no voltage) light?
If so, any reason why we couldn't use it for that purpose?
Sam Buchanan
Message 10
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| Subject: | Starter Contactor |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: <315@cox.net>
I have an automotive engine with a solenoid controlled starter. I currently do
not have a starter contactor. What is the purpose of the contactor? To remove
high amp from bus? Or? Just wondering if while I'm modifying the wiring for
OV protection if I should add a starter contactor and contactor engaged warning
light..
Thanks,
Ned
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Avionics masters redux |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 04:55 AM 2/14/2003 -0800, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Gary Casey" <glcasey@adelphia.net>
>
><<
> I've seen this article and several others in the
> same vein. As you have observed, they are
> remarkable for their lack of data. These writers
> are propagandists, no more than living echoes of
> ancient dogma.
>
> As a PhD, Mr Rogers is OBLIGATED to expand
> on understanding based on data . . . this guy
> might just as well be writing ad copy for
> breakfast cereal.>>
>
>I dealt with Tom Rogers a number of times when he was doing an installation
>in my Cessna (I'll admit it, we installed an avionics master at the time).
>While he is very knowledgeable, I would have bet a weeks pay he didn't have
>a PhD, at least not in a technical field. His understanding of the
>engineering basics was more of an experience-based one than one founded on
>the physics and theoretical. He does make a point that some of the
>electronic gizmos don't have power switches, so a "master" is the only way
>to turn them off.
Assuming they NEED to be off.
> In my uninformed state (read ignorant) state, the reason
>for the master was simple - it's easier to remember to turn one thing on and
>off than several.
But you still had to REMEMBER and/or follow the CHECK-LIST.
My experience with rental airplanes has shown me that about
10% of the time, I get into an airplane where the master
switch was left ON from last shutdown. I've never seen a
checklist that says "AVIONICS MASTER - Check OFF" in the
starting procedure . . . the authors assume that it is
off because the pilot followed the checklist for shutdown.
> Having said all that, the only reason I can think of to
>turn off the radios at all is to eliminate the few amps of draw during
>cranking to save every bit of energy for the starter.
Back in the good ol' days of flooded batteries, there
was a modicum of reason for reducing parasitic loads to
a minimum while cranking . . . with RG batteries, it
has become a non-issue . . . especially if one subscribes
to the battery-a-year change out.
> I once owned a
>no-master airplane with several others; there were always radios that were
>left on and I often tried to transmit through a radio which I hadn't yet
>turned on.
We've all been there and done that . . . but the point is
that none of these events has resulted in a smoked
modern radio.
>It would seem to me two masters in parallel would be a
>reasonable approach.
Yup . . . but if you DO have a single point failure for all
radios, you ought to have a backup for it . . .
If I owned a certified ship, I'd put a diode in series
with the avionics master to prevent inadvertent back-feed
of power from A-bus to the main bus. Add an alternate
feedpath from battery to A-bus (it might have to use
a mini-contactor relay near battery because of the
much higher loads associated with A-bus on certified
ships). Doing this makes the A-bus into an E-bus.
I would then move the turn coordinator to the E-bus
and provide for some kind of battery operated
LED flood lighting for the panel. This gives me
95% of what the E-bus does for us in MODERN airplanes.
Hmmm . . . now I have TWO switches to REMEMBER and/or
to include on the check list . . .
There's nothing evil or dumb about having an avionics
master . . . especially if it's backed up. I object
to the premise under which the switch is "required".
At the very least this IS dumb. At the worst,
people who operate under the banners of higher education
have a responsibility to shine the light of
good science in support of their premise.
Bob . . .
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: fastons . . . |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
> Bob, I'm buildiing a Glasair Super II FT. As it has a one piece wing,
> the electrical connector strip is under the seatpans.
What happens under the seats? A ground bus? This needs to be
on the firewall . . . Power distribution could be under
the seats. A number of builders have put their fuseblocks
there but it does make for much longer wire runs. Majority
of builders do power distribution from on or behind the
panel.
> You have convinced me that using "Fast-on" connectors are superior to
> the "eye" fasteners. I see that B&C has fast-on grounding strips. Is
> there a supplier of Fast-on strips for the posative side (in other words,
> not ganged together)? Is this a bad idea? Thanks
The "positive strips" are taken care of in the
fuse block. If you're going to use breakers, then
you're better off with ring terminals for
the (+) side of the supply . . .
Bob . . .
|-------------------------------------------------------|
| The man who does not read good books has no advantage |
| over the man who cannot read them. |
| - Mark Twain |
|-------------------------------------------------------|
Message 13
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 09:34 AM 2/14/2003 -0600, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
>
>
>"Robert L. Nuckolls, III" wrote:
> >
> > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
> <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
>
> > >F goes to alternator field terminal
> > >A goes to the + voltage source
> > >S is connected to A
> > >I is not connected to anything
> > >
> > >but, these are equally spaced on the figure so you can't tell which pin is
> > >which.
> > >
> > >Dave Reel, dreel@cox.net
> >
> > They are in the same order looking down from the top on all
> > versions of the VR166 . . . terminal "I" is the terminal on
> > the far left and is the widest spacing from the adjacent
> > pin. The order is I A S F.
> >
> > Bob . . .
>
>
>What is the "I" terminal? Is it for an "Idiot" (low/no voltage) light?
>If so, any reason why we couldn't use it for that purpose?
>
>Sam Buchanan
You could. but if you have active notification of
low voltage, then you're covered. There are failure
modes in the alternator system that go un-annunciated
by the "I" terminal light . . .
Bob . . .
Message 14
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
>I have had a debate with the guy at PS Engineering when I wired my plane last
>month. He insisted I use a shielded wire on all the PTT circuits and then
>told me now that I have purchased my PS1000 ll I needed to have them make up
>a harness and buy it from them for $ 235.00 US, Thats what the unit almost
>cost. And, there is NO warranty unless I do. Now why in the world would one
>need a shielded wire on a circuit like that ?????? I sure hope the
>intercom is better then their [clever] marketing scheme. Ben Haas N801BH.
I would avoid PS engineering and send them a letter
telling them why. If their product is at-risk for
warranty issues because of mis-wiring, then they've
not done their homework . . . this puts all other
issues of their engineering and marketing integrity
in doubt.
I would bet that this is simply a marketing ploy
to sell more stuff. . . . they should be ashamed.
To do my part, I have copied PS Engineering on this
reply.
Bob . . .
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: OV Protection for Internally Regulated |
"One Wire" Alternator?
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 09:22 AM 2/14/2003 -0600, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: <315@cox.net>
>
>Now I see another way of connecting the OV module according to Z-8. It
>shows the OV module across the alternator contactor control leads. So when
>the OV trips the coil is no lnger energized and opens the feed to the field
>shutting down the alternator. However, there is no breaker popped to
>indicate what happened. Am I looking at this right?
ALL my drawings incorporating crowbar OV protection have breakers
in series with the feed line. If I were building an airplane, the
ONLY breakers on my panel would be for alternator control.
see http://216.55.140.222/temp/Switches.pdf
Bob . . .
Message 16
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: John Schroeder <jschroeder@perigee.net>
Bob -
I was told by an avionics supplier that PS Engineering makes the audio/intercomm
boxes for Garmin and UPS. The rationale is that they couldn't do it any better
or cheaper. Is this true?
John
2/14/2003 11:47:13 AM, "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net> wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
<bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
>
>
>>I have had a debate with the guy at PS Engineering when I wired my plane last
>>month. He insisted I use a shielded wire on all the PTT circuits and then
>>told me now that I have purchased my PS1000 ll I needed to have them make up
>>a harness and buy it from them for $ 235.00 US, Thats what the unit almost
>>cost. And, there is NO warranty unless I do. Now why in the world would one
>>need a shielded wire on a circuit like that ?????? I sure hope the
>>intercom is better then their [clever] marketing scheme. Ben Haas N801BH.
>
>
> I would avoid PS engineering and send them a letter
> telling them why. If their product is at-risk for
> warranty issues because of mis-wiring, then they've
> not done their homework . . . this puts all other
> issues of their engineering and marketing integrity
> in doubt.
>
Message 17
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: cary rhodes <rhodeseng@yahoo.com>
I need to find a source for a alternator to use on a
rv-7
I have heard nippon denso. Can't find a source or
model number
maybe a auto application for that specific alternator
Or any other assistance you may have
thanks
cary
-7 finish items
Message 18
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jon Finley" <jon@finleyweb.net>
Cary,
I am using a Nippondenso from a 1988 Chevy Sprint. It is a 45amp
alternator with a V belt pulley. Weighs something around 6 lbs.
You can see some photos of it at
http://www.finleyweb.net/default.asp?id=115
There are a ton of options depending on your requirements. A stroll
through the local wrecking yard's alternator section will give you some
great ideas.
Jon Finley
N90MG Q2 - Subaru EJ-22 DD - 440 Hrs. TT - 0 Hrs Engine
Apple Valley, Minnesota
http://www.FinleyWeb.net/default.asp?id=96
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On
> Behalf Of cary rhodes
> Sent: Friday, February 14, 2003 1:50 PM
> To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: alternator
>
>
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: cary rhodes
> --> <rhodeseng@yahoo.com>
>
> I need to find a source for a alternator to use on a
> rv-7
>
> I have heard nippon denso. Can't find a source or
> model number
>
> maybe a auto application for that specific alternator
>
> Or any other assistance you may have
>
> thanks
>
> cary
> -7 finish items
Message 19
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Michel Therrien <mtherr@yahoo.com>
I bought an alternator today. It is from a 1988
Firefly. It has a V groove pulley (not serpentine)
and it delivers 55A, 14.55V. I bought it in a
scrapyard for 40$CDN and then went to an alternator
shop that rebuilt it for 105$CDN. They changed
everything from what I can see including the housing
(which was cracked) and the voltage regulator.
Michel
--- cary rhodes <rhodeseng@yahoo.com> wrote:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: cary rhodes
> <rhodeseng@yahoo.com>
>
> I need to find a source for a alternator to use on a
> rv-7
>
> I have heard nippon denso. Can't find a source or
> model number
>
> maybe a auto application for that specific
> alternator
>
> Or any other assistance you may have
>
> thanks
>
> cary
> -7 finish items
>
>
>
> -
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> latest messages.
> List members.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/AeroElectric-List.htm
>
Digests:http://www.matronics.com/digest/aeroelectric-list
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
=====
----------------------------
Michel Therrien CH601-HD
http://mthobby.pcperfect.com/ch601
http://www.zenithair.com/bldrlist/profiles/mthobby
http://pages.infinit.net/mthobby
Message 20
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: David Aronson <aronsond@pacbell.net>
I have an unused 40amp alternator from Van's for a Lycoming 0320-0360.
It comes with all mounting hardware. Will sell for 15% off of what
Van's currently charges. PLUS SHIPPING.
Dave Aronson
RV4 N504RV
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of cary
rhodes
Subject: AeroElectric-List: alternator
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: cary rhodes
<rhodeseng@yahoo.com>
I need to find a source for a alternator to use on a
rv-7
I have heard nippon denso. Can't find a source or
model number
maybe a auto application for that specific alternator
Or any other assistance you may have
thanks
cary
-7 finish items
---
Incoming mail is certified Virus Free.
---
Message 21
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@qcpi.com>
On a starter relay one of the small studs does nothing. So does this mean
that the diode goes from the "active" stud to ground?
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 8220
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
Message 22
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@BowenAero.com>
Perhaps http://www.niagaraairparts.com
-
Larry Bowen
Larry@BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
2003 - The year of flight!
> -----Original Message-----
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: cary rhodes
> --> <rhodeseng@yahoo.com>
>
> I need to find a source for a alternator to use on a
> rv-7
>
> I have heard nippon denso. Can't find a source or
> model number
>
> maybe a auto application for that specific alternator
>
> Or any other assistance you may have
>
> thanks
>
> cary
> -7 finish items
Message 23
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: N823ms@aol.com
Bob:
Getting ready to order some switches/contactors etc. Looking at the
Z-14, I believe you said that the starter/crossfeed switch is actually
S700-2-50? After the Nashville seminar, I have decided to wait to install
electronic ignition. They wanted $2800.00 for a Laser system. So I am going
to take your advise and get the plane finished and in the air before I start
adding the goodies. OK, is this the starter switch, S700-2-50? And now that I
am going to run MAGS for a while, can I still use the old Jurassic switch,
i.e. LT RT Both Start? Or do I use both and just disregard the start
terminal on the old switch type? If I understand this S700-2-50, it allows me
to start the engine and crossfeed over should the main ALT drop off. This is
a manual operation no relay cross over, right? To understand this diagram let
see now. To start the engine I would use the S700-2-50. This essentially ties
the batteries together for a greater amp start. The old fashion LT/RT/Both
switch would be on both? Once on line, I can turn on the MAIN/AUX BUSSES
switches. Then turn on other items, i.e. radios, lights or what ever. OH yes
I believe I would also turn a fuel pump on which is on the Main Bat BUS. With
fuel injection, it will have high/low positions. What do you recommend for
this? An ON-OFF-ON switch. Do I give the engine a shot of high fuel pressure
prior to start or install a primer switch? I will be tying in an external
power receptacle, what is the stock number of the Ground power contactor? And
should the GRD PWR CTR be a 2A or 5A C/B? Speaking of C/B's, you mentioned at
the seminar that if there was a need for any of these critters it would be on
the "F" or "B" side of the ALTs'? If so, what would be the right CB for the
60/20amp Alternators, stock#,? I know this is a lot but I am getting ready to
order some parts. I have a 20 fuse block = Main Bus, 10 fuse block = Aux Bus,
and (2) 6 fuse boxes for the batteries respectively. Is this OK or should I
upgrade the AUX Bus to 20 and the batteries to 10? As soon as I get an
answer, I believe I'll have an order for you.
Regards,
Ed Silvanic
N823MS@AOL.COM
Lancair ES
Message 24
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| Subject: | Amp. Meter Shunt |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin@valkyrie.net>
List, I have a 40 Amp. Meter and shunt from Vans for my RV6-A and will be running
a 60 Amp. alternator. Can I still use my 40 amp. Shunt?
Van's doesn't show a 60 Amp. Shunt available and I can seem to locate
one.
Thanks, Tom in Ohio
Message 25
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| Subject: | Nav lights, panel lights, strobe lights |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "William Bernard" <billbernard@worldnet.att.net>
I was re-reading Bob's Aeroelectric Connection in preparation for beginning the
wiring project. The chapter on switches suggested that a 2-10 switch could be
used to operate the strobes and nav lights, each on their own circuit.
Possibly taking this one step farther, would there be anything wrong with wiring
the circuit for the panel lights to the same terminals (on a 2-10 switch) as
the nav lights? There would then be 3 circuits on the switch: strobes, nav lights
and panel lights.
I can't think of a situation in which one would have the panel lights on and not
have the nav lights on as well. The panel lights will be on the e-bus and the
nav lights on the main bus. The circuits would be totally separate, except for
the switch. It strikes me that the switch should be robust enough to handle
the current flows and the only problem would be finding a connector able to take
two wires.
Let me also add that the panel lights will be either 'on' or 'off'. I am not planning
on using a rheostat to control intensity. I rarely fly at night anyway
and usually the lights are fully bright anyway.
Any thoughts on this scheme?
Thanks in advance.
Bill
Message 26
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| Subject: | Nav lights, panel lights, strobe lights |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jon Finley" <jon@finleyweb.net>
Hi Bill,
The only issue that immediately comes to my mind is: what happens if you
are flying at night and have an electrical "situation" that requires
shutting down the main bus (disabling the nav and panel lights). This
would leave you without panel lights (well, beyond the flashlight in
your mouth!).
Just a thought....
Jon Finley
N90MG Q2 - Subaru EJ-22 DD - 440 Hrs. TT - 0 Hrs Engine
Apple Valley, Minnesota
http://www.FinleyWeb.net/default.asp?id=96
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On
> Behalf Of William Bernard
> Sent: Friday, February 14, 2003 7:42 PM
> To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: Nav lights, panel lights, strobe lights
>
>
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "William Bernard"
> --> <billbernard@worldnet.att.net>
>
> I was re-reading Bob's Aeroelectric Connection in preparation
> for beginning the wiring project. The chapter on switches
> suggested that a 2-10 switch could be used to operate the
> strobes and nav lights, each on their own circuit.
>
> Possibly taking this one step farther, would there be
> anything wrong with wiring the circuit for the panel lights
> to the same terminals (on a 2-10 switch) as the nav lights?
> There would then be 3 circuits on the switch: strobes, nav
> lights and panel lights.
>
> I can't think of a situation in which one would have the
> panel lights on and not have the nav lights on as well. The
> panel lights will be on the e-bus and the nav lights on the
> main bus. The circuits would be totally separate, except for
> the switch. It strikes me that the switch should be robust
> enough to handle the current flows and the only problem would
> be finding a connector able to take two wires.
>
> Let me also add that the panel lights will be either 'on' or
> 'off'. I am not planning on using a rheostat to control
> intensity. I rarely fly at night anyway and usually the
> lights are fully bright anyway.
>
> Any thoughts on this scheme?
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Bill
Message 27
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: John Schroeder <jschroeder@perigee.net>
Ed -
The crossfeed/starter switch is an S700-2-50 On-On-(on). Since you already
have the "Jurassic" switch, consider wiring just the mags to it and wiring
the starter to the -50 as shown on Z-14. Bob is revising Z-14 to show the -50
wiring. This way, you get to use the key switch, have a bit of security with
the key and also manage the mags like most production A/C. I like the idea of
the start/crossfeed being on one switch.
>If I understand this S700-2-50, it allows me to start the engine and crossfeed
>over should the main ALT drop off. This is a manual operation no relay
>crossover, right?
The crossfeed switch does in fact actuate a relay to tie the main and aux
busses together. To start, you would most likely have the main and aux
battery to the full up position. The first position is for bringing the
batteries, via their contactors, on to their respective busses. In the full
up position, you have the alternators set to put out juice as soon as the
engine is running.
>I believe I would also turn a fuel pump on which is on the Main Bat BUS. With
>fuel injection, it will have high/low positions. What do you recommend for
>this?
I believe that lancair no longer recommends the primer/boost pump arrangement
they show in the ES manual. I think they prime by giving the system a shot of
high boost before cranking. Best to confirm this with Mark or Carsten at the
factory. You need an Off-On(Low)- On(High) switch for the boost pump.
>If so, what would be the right CB for the 60/20amp Alternators, stock#,?
Bob shows a 5 amp C/B (not a fuze) for each alternator field and recommends
they be located adjacent to or above their respective Battey/Alternator
switches.
>I know this is a lot but I am getting ready to order some parts. I have a 20>>>
fuse block = Main Bus, 10 fuse block = Aux Bus,
>and (2) 6 fuse boxes for the batteries respectively. Is this OK or should I
>upgrade the AUX Bus to 20 and the batteries to 10?
What does your load analysis show for each bus? I'd get that down and then
have a few spare slots for each fuze block especially if you are going to
retrofit a bunch of stuff later - as you plan to do.
I modified a copy of Z-14 to show the S700-2-50 switch for the crossfeed and
starter, per Bob's email of yesterday, and sent it to him to check. When he
approves it, I can send you a copy of the AutoCAD file. With the volume of
emails on this forum addressed to him, he's probably in a coma from all of the
questions.
Hope this helps.
John Schroeder
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