Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 07:01 AM - Re: Common Ground/Ground power contactor# (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
2. 02:15 PM - Re: Fw: amp/volt gauge/ shunts and wiring (Joel Harding)
3. 02:20 PM - AW: AW: Strobe wireing (Hans - Peter Reusser)
4. 02:42 PM - Re: Fw: amp/volt gauge/ shunts and wiring (Canyon)
5. 03:56 PM - Re: AW: Strobe wireing (Werner Schneider)
6. 04:09 PM - ND alternator modification (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
7. 04:23 PM - 12 volts to 28 volts converter (coulter@gci.net)
8. 07:02 PM - Re: Fw: amp/volt gauge/ shunts and wiring (N823ms@aol.com)
9. 07:15 PM - Re: Fw: amp/volt gauge/ shunts and wiring (BobsV35B@aol.com)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Common Ground/Ground power contactor# |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 02:35 PM 2/21/2003 -0500, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: N823ms@aol.com
>
>Bob:
>
> You mentioned awhile back about a common ground point for people who
>install their batteries in the back such as I will with this Lancair ES. What
>device would you use as a common ground point?
A simple brass stud (5/16" or larger) with brass nuts
and washers could bring your battery (-) leads together.
This same stud could be a remote ground for your strobe
power supply and rear position light. Other remote devices
like pitot heat and tip lights might get a closer ground
at the firewall ground . . . in fact, I'd just run them
up there anyhow . . . ESPECIALLY the pitot heat which
draws a lot of current. It's magneitc effects will
be minimized if power and ground wires can stay in
close proximity for the furthest practical distance.
> Second, you mentioned then to
>run 4AWG wire to the front from the battery contactors to the cross-feed
>contactor. Since I have abundant amount of welding 2awg cable; would it be ok
>to use this vise 4awg.
Sure . . .
Bob . . .
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Fwd: amp/volt gauge/ shunts and wiring |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Joel Harding <cajole76@ispwest.com>
Steve,
The E.I. VA1A Volt/Amp instrument, which is the internal shunt model,
has two posts on the back that are hooked in series in the B lead
between the alternator and the main bus. There are two separate wires
that tap into the bus for the voltage reading.
Joel Harding
On Friday, February 21, 2003, at 12:54 PM, Canyon wrote:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Canyon
> <steve.canyon@verizon.net>
>
> N823ms@undoubtedly.com wrote:
>> Electronics International's Voltammeter's will not read from two
>> different
>> shunts that have different shunt values.
> ---
> I'm sure Bob will give you the scoop on this, but for my own
> clarification, is the EI instrument truly a two in one? That is, it
> has two scales, one for voltage and the other for current? If so, are
> there 4 terminals, or 3 terminals or what?
>
> In any event, this kind of ammeter is really a voltmeter anyway. It
> reads the voltage across the shunt and reports the value in amps, only
> because of the scale provided on the instrument, and is often called an
> ammeter. If it also reads voltage, it undoubtedly has at least 3
> terminals and a separate calibration resistor for the voltage scale,
> probably internal.
>
> You may be able to use two shunts quite easily if each has the shunt
> value required to read full scale @ 60 A on one and 20 A on the
> other. Whether that's wise may also be another matter. And if the
> scale is wrong for the two different ammeter values, that might be
> problematic -- you might rescale it for % of capacity?
>
>
> _-
> ======================================================================
> _-
> ======================================================================
> _-
> ======================================================================
> _-
> ======================================================================
>
>
Message 3
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Hans - Peter Reusser" <hpreusser@tiscalinet.ch>
Aha! That makes sense. Go ahead with what you've
suggested . . . it will be fine. Do you have access
to a source of plastic connectors like the Molex or
AMP Mate-n-Lock series? By the way, I got your book
dropped the mailbox a few minutes ago.
Bob . . .
I have no access for the mentioned connectors, but thought of fitting MIL
Spec C26482 connectors rated at 700VDC 7,5amps, which I could by from a
swiss provider for a resonable price.(I was thinking of connecting the
shield of the HF-cable outside the connector.) Would they do the job?
Hans-Peter
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Fwd: amp/volt gauge/ shunts and wiring |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Canyon <steve.canyon@verizon.net>
Joel Harding wrote:
>Steve,
>The E.I. VA1A Volt/Amp instrument, which is the internal shunt model,
>has two posts on the back that are hooked in series in the B lead
>between the alternator and the main bus. There are two separate wires
>that tap into the bus for the voltage reading.
>
>Joel Harding
---
Hi Joel,
If that is the case, it won't work with external shunts at all (without
modification). I thought the response he got from E.I. indicated it
would work with one external shunt. If it will work with one external
shunt, it can be made to work with two, or more, but obviously would
require a switch between the them and a scale change to reflect the
actual current or a flag on the meter, at least.
But, I'm getting confused as to why the question of the mfg would
produce the answer he got. Maybe he has a different model #? Maybe I
misunderstood the whole thing. :-)
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Strobe wireing |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Werner Schneider" <wernerschneider@compuserve.com>
Hans Peter,
contact http://www.tycoelectronics.ch, they are the distributor of AMP
products in Switzerland and can tell you where to get it.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Hans - Peter Reusser" <hpreusser@tiscalinet.ch>
Subject: AW: AW: AeroElectric-List: Strobe wireing
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Hans - Peter Reusser"
<hpreusser@tiscalinet.ch>
>
>
> Aha! That makes sense. Go ahead with what you've
> suggested . . . it will be fine. Do you have access
> to a source of plastic connectors like the Molex or
> AMP Mate-n-Lock series? By the way, I got your book
> dropped the mailbox a few minutes ago.
>
> Bob . . .
>
> I have no access for the mentioned connectors, but thought of fitting MIL
> Spec C26482 connectors rated at 700VDC 7,5amps, which I could by from a
> swiss provider for a resonable price.(I was thinking of connecting the
> shield of the HF-cable outside the connector.) Would they do the job?
>
> Hans-Peter
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | ND alternator modification |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
Bob,
I have a question regarding a new B&C Linear regulator as applied
to a Nippondenso alternator that I modified to change from internal regulation
to external regulation. In this particular model, one side of the field
was electrically connected to the B lead instead of ground.
I believe all the ND alternators do that . . .
Since this connection also provides mechanical support to the brush holder,
the only way to isolate the field from the B lead was to install nylon
shoulder washers between the terminal and the bolt and mating surfaces.
This has allowed me to connect this side of the field to ground. I've
run this ground connection through a 10 amp fuse so that if the isolation
fails the fuse will blow and now the field will once again have one terminal
connected to the B lead instead of ground.
Now, the question: If the isolation fails and the field is connected to
plus instead of ground, what happens, if anything, to the B&C regulator
that is driving the other terminal?
The system will shut down and it will not hurt the
regulator . . .
The ideal situation would be that the alternator shuts down because there
is now no current flowing through the field. A bad situation would be
reverse current flowing through the regulator causing either a runaway
alternator or a failed regulator.
That's what will happen . . .
If this is a problem, would installing a diode between the regulator and the
field cause problems during normal operation? I d prefer not to have a diode
there but if necessary I can install one.
Not necessary . . .
The good news is if the alternator fails it has the same connector
as the B&C 60-amp unit (is the B&C unit a rebuilt Nippondenso?) and I
have wired it the same way so a B&C will drop right in without any
wiring changes needed.
B&C starts out with brand new ND alternators and in addition
to a similar modification to rewire the field, they balance
rotors to about 10x tighter specs than as-produced. This
is essential for good bearing life at at the 10,000+ RPM
speeds we like to see at cruising speeds on a Lyc.
Thanks for all the good advice on your website. It s been most useful
in the design of the electrical system for the RV-7A I am building.
Thank you for the kind words. I'm pleased that you find
the effort useful . . .
I'll suggest that you join us on the AeroElectric-List hosted
at matronics.com . . . this is a good place for questions like
this to be shared along with answers so that others can
benefit from the exchange.
Bob . . .
--------------------------------------------------------
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< of man. Advances which permit this norm to be >
< exceeded -- here and there, now and then -- are the >
< work of an extremely small minority, frequently >
< despised, often condemned, and almost always opposed >
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< minority is kept from creating, or (as sometimes >
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http://www.aeroelectric.com
Message 7
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| Subject: | 12 volts to 28 volts converter |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: coulter@gci.net
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Stephen J. Soule"
><SSoule@pfclaw.com>
>
>As the owner of a nice 28 volt Bendix-King KY-196, I would like to install
>it in my 12 volt RV-8 under construction. Where could I buy a device to step
>up the voltage from 12 to 28 volts,
************************************
Stephen -
You did not say how much power you needed. If you are looking for 3A at 28V continous,
try vicorpower.com. Here are a couple of suggestions:
http://www.vicr.com/products/datasheets/ds_vi-200.pdf
P/N VI-J0L-EX-F2
http://www.vicr.com/products/datasheets/ds_vi-j00.pdf
P/N VI-J0L-EX-F2
12V input
28V output (24V available)
-10C to +100C operating (-40C or colder, storage temp available for us that need
it)
75W output
heatsink, 1" fin mod (heatsink)
80% to 85% efficiency (likely close to 85% at full load)
Either of the two units I suggested is rated for 75W. I suspect you would want
the heatsink option. The smaller one of the two (second one listed) is 3 oz
without the heatsink.
I did not run any of the heat transfer calcs on these modules. However, I did
run the heat transfer calcs on their 2nd generation, 400W modules (not suitable
for your application (12V input not available) and the best I can get with heatsinked,
natural convection is 150W. I would highly suggest you check their
applications data - lots available on their site - for power output with natural
convection. I have some of their other power supplies and it is good looking
industrial grade equipment - nothing second rate about it.
I don't know what the prices are for the suggested modules, but the quoted prices
for the 400W module I am looking at buying is $220 in single quanities. Could
be the 75W modules are reasonable and, if the price is reasonable, but one
isn't enough, they parallel easily.
I don't know that I would tell them I was building airplanes - probably something
like I was prototyping mobile equipment systems, which of course, is true.
If you call and get some prices, let us know.
If you need less current, I know of some other options.
carl
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Fwd: amp/volt gauge/ shunts and wiring |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: N823ms@aol.com
In a message dated 02/22/2003 4:43:19 PM Central Standard Time,
steve.canyon@verizon.net writes:
> Joel Harding wrote:
> >Steve,
> >The E.I. VA1A Volt/Amp instrument, which is the internal shunt model,
> >has two posts on the back that are hooked in series in the B lead
> >between the alternator and the main bus. There are two separate wires
> >that tap into the bus for the voltage reading.
> >
> >Joel Harding
> ---
>
The EI gauge I got from EI is the VA-1A-50. this is the external shunt model
and requires a S-50 shunt which is the 100mv/100AMP. Bench tested it today,
works just as advertised.
Ed SIlvanic
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Fwd: amp/volt gauge/ shunts and wiring |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: BobsV35B@aol.com
In a message dated 2/22/03 9:03:28 PM Central Standard Time, N823ms@aol.com
writes:
> The EI gauge I got from EI is the VA-1A-50. this is the external shunt model
>
> and requires a S-50 shunt which is the 100mv/100AMP. Bench tested it today,
>
> works just as advertised.
>
> Ed SIlvanic
>
Good Evening Ed,
For what it's worth, I have an EI VA-1A-50 with a three way switch and three
shunts which allows me to check my Battery buss, Primary Alternator buss and
my B&C Standby Alternator buss.
Works like a charm!
Happy Skies,
Old Bob
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