Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:19 AM - Re: battery charger (Jim Vosters)
2. 05:46 AM - Fuse Block (Mark Phillips)
3. 06:00 AM - Re: DC Power Master switch (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
4. 06:08 AM - Re: regulator/charging voltage questions (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
5. 06:18 AM - Re: Message resend Sheild Termination/ (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
6. 06:43 AM - Re: battery charger (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
7. 06:48 AM - Design brainstorming - help, please? (Eric M. Jones)
8. 07:03 AM - Re: Fuse Block (Richard Dudley)
9. 07:36 AM - Re: Design brainstorming - help, please? (Rob Logan)
10. 09:37 AM - fast on connectors (Jones, Michael)
11. 10:03 AM - Re: fast on connectors (Richard Tasker)
12. 10:13 AM - Re: fast on connectors (HCRV6@aol.com)
13. 10:31 AM - Re: fast on connectors (Ron Raby)
14. 12:23 PM - Re: Fuse Block (Mark Phillips)
15. 12:24 PM - Re: Design brainstorming - help, please? (G. Likar)
16. 12:54 PM - Didn't mean to be pushy (Don Boardman)
17. 01:43 PM - Diode mounting (Mark Phillips)
18. 02:08 PM - self exciting alternator (cary rhodes)
19. 02:08 PM - Re: Diode mounting (David Carter)
20. 02:28 PM - Materials/parts (N823ms@aol.com)
21. 02:34 PM - Ford Motrorcraft alternator (N823ms@aol.com)
22. 02:48 PM - SPEAKING OF DIODES (Scott Bilinski)
23. 02:52 PM - Re: Design brainstorming - help, please? (James Freeman)
24. 04:23 PM - Re: Materials/parts (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
25. 04:27 PM - Re: Gyro connectors (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
26. 04:50 PM - Re: SPEAKING OF DIODES (William Mills)
27. 05:10 PM - Re: Ford Motrorcraft alternator (LRE2@aol.com)
28. 08:38 PM - Wing wiring ()
29. 08:38 PM - Re: Ford Motrorcraft alternator (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
Message 1
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jim Vosters" <jvosters@adelphia.net>
Bob,
What do you recommend for a 24 volt power supply to power the aircraft on
the ground for extended maintenance and testing or can you just use the
battery power with a boast charger connected?
Jim
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Robert
L. Nuckolls, III
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: battery charger
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
<bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 06:19 AM 2/26/2003 -0800, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: James Robinson
><jbr@hitechnetworks.net>
>
>Bob
>
>Do you have any recomendations for a good battery charger for the sealed
>batteries.
If you want a charger to boost a battery that is known to
be in some state less than full charge . . . anything
you pick up at the car parts store is fine. Just leave
it on no longer than required to top the battery off.
Look for an "automatic shutoff" feature . . . this is always
good too. There is NOTHING magic about chargers for flooded
vis-a-vis sealed lead-acid batteries . . . I've seen some
add which suggest that one needs to select a battery charger
with care lest you get one that's "okay" for flooded batteries
and "killer" for sealed batteries.
Any charger with "killer instincts" will kill any
kind of battery.
If you want a maintenance charger and/or you're not looking
for short term boost capability, then consider something
like
http://www.battery-chargers.com/catalog/6.pdf
. . . here you see a little automatic charger that
can be left on your battery indefinitely. This little
charger will recharge a totally dead battery of any
size. We had a thread on here a few weeks ago wherein
someone suggested that a small maintenance or "trickle"
charger was unsuited for recharging depleted batteries.
Not true. As long as the charging source puts out more
current than the self-discharge or leakage current
within the battery, the excess current will charge
the battery . . . it may take many hours to days but
it WILL charge the battery.
Folks have put 100 mA solar arrays on their hangars
thinking that this little bit of current can't possibly
hurt their battery. After sitting unattended for months,
many have come out to fly only to find that their
battery is cooked. "Automatic" is the key word for
extended unattended operation of any charger connected
to any battery technology.
A charger good for both boost and maintenance is
shown here:
http://www.battery-chargers.com/catalog/9.pdf
. . . but if you use an RG battery and fly regularly,
you should never find yourself in need of a battery
charger. A ground power jack for extended maintenance
operations on the ground is a pretty good idea too.
Bob . . .
Message 2
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Mark Phillips <ripsteel@edge.net>
What is the diameter of the connection post on the fuse blocks B&C
sells? Need to order terminals!
TIA- Mark
Message 3
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: DC Power Master switch |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
> Bob: Planning simple day-VFR RV6A panel. Possiblly later on upgrade to
> night VFR with one electronic ignition. I am referencing Fig Z-11 with
> toggle switches. I am confused by different reference to swiches for
> battery/alternator master switch (2-3 or 2-10 depends if you reference
> Z-11 or switch 2-3 verbage on p11-18.)
>Hopefully this was an easy question, and not too stupid. Thanks.
The purpose of this switch is to make sure that alternator
is never on without also having the battery on. The low-dollar
solution is to use a 2-3 switch and have the battery and
alternator come on and off together. When running battery
only for extended periods of time, one can pull the crowbar
ov breaker supplying the field to shut off the alternator.
A sexier, somewhat more expensive solution is to use the
progressive transfer, 2-10 switch wired so that down
is OFF, mid is BAT only, up is BAB+ALT . . . then you
don't have to pull the breaker to get battery-only
operation.
Either technique works just fine.
Bob . . .
Message 4
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: regulator/charging voltage questions |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 06:08 AM 2/26/2003 -0800, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Bob Japundza <bjapundza@yahoo.com>
>
>Hi Bob,
>
>I have a small Denso alternator that is indentical in
>form-factor to the B&C alternator but it has the
>built-in regulator. I have a lightweight 17ah
>Panasonic battery that I believe will be adequate to
>turn over my IO-540. This battery has the same specs
>as the Odyssey but only cost $36. In the battery
>datasheet Panasonic specifies a charging voltage of
>14.5-14.9 volts. I noticed that the Odyssey specs are
>based on a 14.7v charging voltage. At this point I am
>going to disable the internal regulator so I can use
>an adjustable external regulator and OV protection
>without a contactor. With this in mind I have a few
>questions:
>1. Other than maybe a slight reduction in the lifespan
>of incandescent bulbs, do you see any problems with
>running the electrical system at 14.5? I assume the
>13.8 volt systems were set at that voltage because
>that is the ideal voltage for normal (i.e., non-rg or
>vented batteries?)
The nominal setpoint for system voltage in aircraft
has been 14.2 for at least 40 years. Variations
over the range of 13.8 to as high as 14.8 or so
will have little effect on battery life
ESPECIALLY if you subscribe to a preventative
maintenance change-out of battery every year
to INSURE a minimum capacity is available for
alternator-out operations. Setpoints trending
to the mid or upper half of that range are
useful to assist in rapid recharge of a battery
that has been tagged for a hard-start or other
debilitating duty.
>2. Is the difference noticable between linear
>regulators such as the B&C and cheap switching-type
>regulators you can buy at Autozone, as far as
>electrical system noise goes?
It's measurable in the lab but in practice, not
significantly different.
>3. With the battery in back, and the alternator in
>front, I assume the place for the regulator would be
>as close to the alternator as possible?
No, as close to main bus as possible.
>4. I haven't opened up my alternator yet, but other
>than making sure all diodes are connected to the
>ground and power lug respectively, is there any advice
>you could offer when disabling the internal regulator?
The ND alternator is not easy to modify. Mechanical
features of the brush interconnection are molded
into the regulator housing. Unless you've done this
before, there is risk . . .
How about running the built in regulator and
adding external ov protection as shown in Appendix
Z?
Bob . . .
Message 5
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Message resend Sheild Termination/ |
Power cable
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 06:27 AM 2/26/2003 -0500, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Don Boardman <dboardm3@twcny.rr.com>
>
>Hi Bob,
>
>My partner faxed you copies of the wire diagrams on Saturday in the event
>mine from earlier in the week did not make it.
>I am re-posting the questions in the chance you still don't have the
>originals.
Got the faxes. Haven't got around to looking at them yet.
Will try for this evening.
Bob . . .
Message 6
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 05:16 AM 2/27/2003 -0500, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jim Vosters" <jvosters@adelphia.net>
>
>Bob,
>
>What do you recommend for a 24 volt power supply to power the aircraft on
>the ground for extended maintenance and testing or can you just use the
>battery power with a boast charger connected?
That would probably work okay. The only risk is that you might
hear 60/120 cycle noise on some electronics from the battery
charger. This doesn't hurt anything and will obviously go
away when the alternator becomes the source of energy. Again,
use a charger with an automatic control of output voltage.
Bob . . .
Message 7
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Design brainstorming - help, please? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Eric M. Jones" <emjones@charter.net>
I read a story about a parachute maker who used to toss shove-dummies out of his
airplane. Worried that one of his dummies or parachutes would get tangled on
the tail, he installed a couple eyebolts under each wing and sewed a couple rings
on each of his test dummies, ran a piece of wire through the mess and had
a good system for testing.
His only cautionary comment was, "If you put bomb racks on your Cessna, you WILL
get a visit from the FBI !"
This may go doubly-so in today's terrorist climate. This even worries me a bit....you're
going to drop stuff from your airplane all over the beautiful spots
in the West......Hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm???? And Allah is your copilot?......Hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm????
The real issues are not technical.......Hmmmmmmmmmmmmmm............?
Best regards,
Eric M. Jones
Message 8
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Richard Dudley <rhdudley@att.net>
Mark,
The post is a 10-32 screw.
Regards,
Richard Dudley
-6A FWF
Mark Phillips wrote:
>
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Mark Phillips <ripsteel@edge.net>
>
> What is the diameter of the connection post on the fuse blocks B&C
> sells? Need to order terminals!
>
> TIA- Mark
>
Message 9
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Design brainstorming - help, please? |
|July 24, 2002) at 02/27/2003 10:35:21 AM,
Serialize by Router on mtasmtp2-clev/P/SERVER/PHILIPS-CLE(Release 5.0.11
|July
24, 2002) at 02/27/2003 10:35:55 AM,
Serialize complete at 02/27/2003 10:35:55 AM
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Rob Logan <Rob@Logan.com>
> This may go doubly-so in today's terrorist climate.
it seem like every time our little group gets together
to fly some formation now a-days, we generate calls
to local police. http://rob.com/pra/gwo/
the best trick we found now is to fly out of towered airports
only so the police can call the tower who explains
what we are doing is perfectly legal.
[oh to stay on topic, I would stick with a little bag one
can open with fish line, attach to wing / canard via strobe
holes.. -Rob ]
--
Utopian Maturity: Eternity, Liberty, Equality and now Fraternity & Altruism.
Message 10
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | fast on connectors |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jones, Michael" <MJones@hatch.ca>
Hi all
Does anyone know if fast on spade terminals are all the same quality no
matter where you get them, rqdio shack, home depot etc
regards
mike
Message 11
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: fast on connectors |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Richard Tasker <retasker@optonline.net>
Not even close!!!
Jones, Michael wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jones, Michael" <MJones@hatch.ca>
>
>Hi all
>
>Does anyone know if fast on spade terminals are all the same quality no
>matter where you get them, rqdio shack, home depot etc
>
>regards
>
>mike
>
>
>
>
Message 12
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: fast on connectors |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: HCRV6@aol.com
In a message dated 2/27/03 10:04:01 AM Pacific Standard Time,
retasker@optonline.net writes:
<< -> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Richard Tasker
<retasker@optonline.net>
Not even close!!!
Jones, Michael wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jones, Michael" <MJones@hatch.ca>
>
>Hi all
>
>Does anyone know if fast on spade terminals are all the same quality no
>matter where you get them, rqdio shack, home depot etc
>
>regards
>
>mike >>
To expand on that a little, none of the fast on terminals carried by the
stores you mentioned, or for that matter by most electronics stores in this
area, are PIDG type. For PIDG terminals you'll probably have to order from
Mouser, Digi-ky, direct from Aeroelectric, etc.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, firewall forward
Message 13
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: fast on connectors |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Ron Raby" <ronr@advanceddesign.com>
Mike
No, they are not the same quality. I would recommend t&b or amp. I also
recommend buying the right tool to install them. The one the manufacturer
specify's using. The racheting kind, that will not release until the lug is
fully crimped.
Ron Raby
N829R
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jones, Michael" <MJones@hatch.ca>
<aeroelectric-list-digest@matronics.com>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: fast on connectors
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jones, Michael"
<MJones@hatch.ca>
>
> Hi all
>
> Does anyone know if fast on spade terminals are all the same quality no
> matter where you get them, rqdio shack, home depot etc
>
> regards
>
> mike
>
>
Message 14
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Mark Phillips <ripsteel@edge.net>
Thank ya kindly, sir! do not archive
Richard Dudley wrote:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Richard Dudley <rhdudley@att.net>
>
> Mark,
> The post is a 10-32 screw.
>
> Regards,
>
> Richard Dudley
> -6A FWF
Message 15
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Design brainstorming - help, please? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "G. Likar" <glikar@shaw.ca>
Have you thought of using shape memory alloys? Mondo-tronics has an
inexpensive, very light but rugged linear actuator (electric piston). It
shortens by 0.75" and can lift 1 pound. The kit came with a 6 volt
Polapulse battery, same as you'll find in a Polaroid camera film pack. It
will supply a up to 15amps instanteous and measures ~1/8" x 3.8" x 3", also
very light. The actuator could be controlled with a reciever from a MiniRC
Car, the type that kids are crasy about these days. Pick one at Walart for
under $20.00. With simple circuitry between the receivers motor output and
the electric piston you should end up with compact and light weight hardware
with plenty of power to controll a door. Use levers to change the stroke
lenght of the piston.
Best regards!
Gord
I need brainstorming help with initial design concepts, and this is as good
a group as it gets. This one's a little unusual.
My father died last month. I want to scatter his ashes from my plane.
My
plane's a canard pusher - a Berkut - and I can't just open the window.
I
need to build a pod that will hold his ashes, then open a door in
front and
back when I push a button.
There's a wing tiedown point halfway out the wing that makes a natural
place to attach, but there's no electrical system available there.
So, I'm
thinking I'll make it self contained, with batteries built in, and
radio
controlled.
The door actuators should be self limiting. I was thinking of
electric car
door lock actuators, but they seem to have a centrifugal clutch, so
you can
move the lock button manually and not back drive the motor. That
would
mean the actuator wouldn't keep the doors closed, so at the moment I'm
thinking of electric car window motors, but they seem oversized and
powered
for the job.
The radio control, I'm not sure of. I'm thinking of buying a cheap RC
car
and tearing it apart. All I need is "press button, switch goes on
over
there" - I don't need any proportionality, and once they're open they
don't
need to close again.
I know both doors will have to open toward the rear.
If anyone has any ideas either about design or sources for actuators
and
radio control, I'd be thankful
Message 16
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Didn't mean to be pushy |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Don Boardman <dboardm3@twcny.rr.com>
Hi Bob,
Certainly understand. Didn't mean to be pushy. Just wanted to make sure the
technology (fax) had worked.
Thanks for your kind help,
Don B.
Message 17
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Mark Phillips <ripsteel@edge.net>
Greetings A-list-
I need to put a diode in the circuit between my starter contactor (for
example) and annunciator panel lamp (incandescent) for proper operation
of the annunciator's push-to-test function. Does anyone know of a
technique for doing this? Perhaps some automotive component? My
annunciator lamps use .187 tabs and I could double the lead on a regular
diode over and crimp into a red faston, then butt splice the other end
of the diode, but there is nothing to support that flimsy little diode.
A couple of layers of heatshrink to stiffen it up? Still not very
mechanically sound. The diode sandwiched between a couple of butt
splices then covered with shrink is also not too appealing.
One alternative is to add a terminal strip and run all wires through it,
jumpering through the diodes to adjacent terminals- adds a lot of
connections and takes a lot of space, as I have 16 diodes to install.
Any elegant solutions out there?
Mark - do not archive -
Message 18
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | self exciting alternator |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: cary rhodes <rhodeseng@yahoo.com>
Bob
What is the disadvantage to having a self exciting
alternator w/ the regulator within the alternator?
http://taxes.yahoo.com/
Message 19
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Diode mounting |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "David Carter" <dcarter@datarecall.net>
'Lectric Bob just posted a reply to another 'thread' stating that: When
there is a potential problem with tension on something like a d-sub pin used
as a butt splice - or a diode in a wire - he uses the technique another
lister had mentioned: Make an 'S' bend of the wire containing the diode,
with the diode sandwiched between the two segments of wire coming out of
each end, with heat shrink over the small mass.
David Carter
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Phillips" <ripsteel@edge.net>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Diode mounting
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Mark Phillips <ripsteel@edge.net>
>
> Greetings A-list-
>
> I need to put a diode in the circuit between my starter contactor (for
> example) and annunciator panel lamp (incandescent) for proper operation
> of the annunciator's push-to-test function. Does anyone know of a
> technique for doing this? Perhaps some automotive component? My
> annunciator lamps use .187 tabs and I could double the lead on a regular
> diode over and crimp into a red faston, then butt splice the other end
> of the diode, but there is nothing to support that flimsy little diode.
> A couple of layers of heatshrink to stiffen it up? Still not very
> mechanically sound. The diode sandwiched between a couple of butt
> splices then covered with shrink is also not too appealing.
>
> One alternative is to add a terminal strip and run all wires through it,
> jumpering through the diodes to adjacent terminals- adds a lot of
> connections and takes a lot of space, as I have 16 diodes to install.
> Any elegant solutions out there?
>
> Mark - do not archive -
>
>
Message 20
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: N823ms@aol.com
Bob:
Before I purchase anything from B&C or aeroelectric, will there be
anybody from these two establishments be at SUN & FUN this year. Most venders
at these shows, have some kind of discount.
Ed Silvanic
Message 21
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Ford Motrorcraft alternator |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: N823ms@aol.com
Bob:
Just got back from my engine manufacturer that their Ford alternator
does not have an internal controller. So I ask. Is this a good alternator? I
am happy that it does not have an internal controller because it gives my
Z-14 some simplicity, i.e. two of the same kind of controllers. So, I need
one of your famous "If it were my plane" recommendations. Should I go with
the Ford or switch so as to have both alternators from B&C?
Regards,
Ed Silvanic
N823MS
Lancair ES
Message 22
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | SPEAKING OF DIODES |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
I really want to understand where the diode goes on a relay. Which senario
is correct. It goes from the small terminal which is switched to 12v, or
to ground?
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
Message 23
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Design brainstorming - help, please? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: James Freeman <flyeyes@bellsouth.net>
On Thursday, February 27, 2003, at 01:07 AM, richard@riley.net wrote:
> I'm going to be doing this several times, scattering a little bit at
> each
> of many places. Yosemite, Kill Devil Hill, La Bourget Airport, Eugene
> OR
> (where he was born) Laurel, MS (where his father was born). Some will
> be
> in the middle of cross country flights, and performance with gear down
> is
> awful.
>
OK, some tighter parameters. Aftermarket car power door lock actuators
are available new for ten bucks or so. Complete keyless entry systems
are a little more but you should be be able to put everything together
for under $100. A couple of quick hits (from Google):
http://www.commandoalarms.com/itmidx11.htm
http://www.commandoalarms.com/itm10005.htm
I suspect you could power everything from a single 9v battery, or a
pack of AA or AAA if they really need 12v.
If you mount an appropriately sized piece of thinwall tubing under the
wing on your hardpoint and aligned into local flow, I wonder if you
could use a sprinkler valve/servo to open the front end to the
slipstream and push the ashes out the back. The potato cannon/spud gun
guys use these in some pressure fed designs.
HTH
James Freeman
Message 24
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Materials/parts |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 05:27 PM 2/27/2003 -0500, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: N823ms@aol.com
>
>Bob:
>
> Before I purchase anything from B&C or aeroelectric, will there be
>anybody from these two establishments be at SUN & FUN this year. Most venders
>at these shows, have some kind of discount.
B&C is usually there. Check with them at 316.283.8000 to be
sure. The years I worked the shows for Bill, he didn't
have show specials . . .
Bob . . .
Message 25
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Gyro connectors |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
>hi bob
>
>i have got my electric gyros and just got the amphenol conectors for the
>back. i assume i need to get the mini pin connectors to attach to wires to
>the plug that goes into the amphenol connectors, i dont solder wires to
>the back of the amphenol connector.
>
>thank
>
>mike
I presume the style of connector you have has loose
pins. These are normally crimped to wires before
the pins are inserted into the connector. They can
be soldered but one has to be very careful not to
allow any solder to contaminate the outside surface
of the pin which will make it difficult if not
impossible to seat into the connector.
I will invite you to join us on the AeroElectric List
to continue this and similar discussions. It's useful to
share the information with as many folks as possible.
You can join at . . .
http://www.matronics.com/subscribe/
Thanks!
Bob . . .
|---------------------------------------------------|
| A lie can travel half way around the world while |
| the truth is till putting on its shoes . . . |
| -Mark Twain- |
|---------------------------------------------------|
Message 26
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: SPEAKING OF DIODES |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: William Mills <courierboy@earthlink.net>
Scott -
Go to:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles.html
Scroll down to "How it works", and click on:
"An illustrated discussion about spike catching diodes and how they work."
It's all there. I had to read it slooowly a few times but Bob makes
it quite clear.
Bill
>I really want to understand where the diode goes on a relay. Which senario
>is correct. It goes from the small terminal which is switched to 12v, or
>to ground?
>
>
>Scott Bilinski
>Eng dept 305
>Phone (858) 657-2536
>Pager (858) 502-5190
Message 27
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Ford Motrorcraft alternator |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: LRE2@aol.com
Ed,
Which Ford alternator are you referring to. I have done considerable
research, looking for an "off the shelf" externally regulated automotive
alternator, that I could easily replace, in "East Wherever," should the need
arise.
So far, I have not come up with one that meets my needs. If you have
found one, I'd appreciate knowing the part#.........LRE
Message 28
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: <ktlkrn@cox.net>
Here's the layout. RV7QB. Existing holes with snap in bushings were drilled out
for a 1/2" ID conduit. I have ran the landing light wire, the nav light wire
and the strobe wires (Whelens)in the conduit. I also want to mount a comm antenna
in one wing tip and a nav in the other.
I'd like to know if I can run the coax for the nav and comm antennas in the conduit
with the other wiring? Is there a potential interference problem? And, if
so, how far apart should they be run?
Thanks in advance.
Darwin N. Barrie
Chandler AZ
Message 29
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Ford Motrorcraft alternator |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 05:33 PM 2/27/2003 -0500, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: N823ms@aol.com
>
>Bob:
>
> Just got back from my engine manufacturer that their Ford alternator
>does not have an internal controller. So I ask. Is this a good alternator? I
>am happy that it does not have an internal controller because it gives my
>Z-14 some simplicity, i.e. two of the same kind of controllers. So, I need
>one of your famous "If it were my plane" recommendations. Should I go with
>the Ford or switch so as to have both alternators from B&C?
I thought we'd talked about this but maybe it was with someone
else. If I've already bought and paid for a Ford alternator,
I'd go ahead and run it. It will work fine with the B&C regulators.
Who knows, I may have an alternator that's running at the top
of the bell-curve.
First time it craps, make a decision based on how it died
and how long it took to make the fix/replace decision. That
could be many years off and since you have two alternators,
this approach presents zero risk.
This re-enforces the idea that a system designed to be
failure tolerant is more reliable than one wherein
designers hope to gain reliability by specification
and other forms of wishful thinking.
Bob . . .
Other Matronics Email List Services
These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.
-- Please support this service by making your Contribution today! --
|