---------------------------------------------------------- AeroElectric-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Thu 02/27/03: 29 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 02:19 AM - Re: battery charger (Jim Vosters) 2. 05:46 AM - Fuse Block (Mark Phillips) 3. 06:00 AM - Re: DC Power Master switch (Robert L. Nuckolls, III) 4. 06:08 AM - Re: regulator/charging voltage questions (Robert L. Nuckolls, III) 5. 06:18 AM - Re: Message resend Sheild Termination/ (Robert L. Nuckolls, III) 6. 06:43 AM - Re: battery charger (Robert L. Nuckolls, III) 7. 06:48 AM - Design brainstorming - help, please? (Eric M. Jones) 8. 07:03 AM - Re: Fuse Block (Richard Dudley) 9. 07:36 AM - Re: Design brainstorming - help, please? (Rob Logan) 10. 09:37 AM - fast on connectors (Jones, Michael) 11. 10:03 AM - Re: fast on connectors (Richard Tasker) 12. 10:13 AM - Re: fast on connectors (HCRV6@aol.com) 13. 10:31 AM - Re: fast on connectors (Ron Raby) 14. 12:23 PM - Re: Fuse Block (Mark Phillips) 15. 12:24 PM - Re: Design brainstorming - help, please? (G. Likar) 16. 12:54 PM - Didn't mean to be pushy (Don Boardman) 17. 01:43 PM - Diode mounting (Mark Phillips) 18. 02:08 PM - self exciting alternator (cary rhodes) 19. 02:08 PM - Re: Diode mounting (David Carter) 20. 02:28 PM - Materials/parts (N823ms@aol.com) 21. 02:34 PM - Ford Motrorcraft alternator (N823ms@aol.com) 22. 02:48 PM - SPEAKING OF DIODES (Scott Bilinski) 23. 02:52 PM - Re: Design brainstorming - help, please? (James Freeman) 24. 04:23 PM - Re: Materials/parts (Robert L. Nuckolls, III) 25. 04:27 PM - Re: Gyro connectors (Robert L. Nuckolls, III) 26. 04:50 PM - Re: SPEAKING OF DIODES (William Mills) 27. 05:10 PM - Re: Ford Motrorcraft alternator (LRE2@aol.com) 28. 08:38 PM - Wing wiring () 29. 08:38 PM - Re: Ford Motrorcraft alternator (Robert L. Nuckolls, III) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 02:19:02 AM PST US From: "Jim Vosters" Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: battery charger --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jim Vosters" Bob, What do you recommend for a 24 volt power supply to power the aircraft on the ground for extended maintenance and testing or can you just use the battery power with a boast charger connected? Jim -----Original Message----- From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Robert L. Nuckolls, III Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: battery charger --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" At 06:19 AM 2/26/2003 -0800, you wrote: >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: James Robinson > > >Bob > >Do you have any recomendations for a good battery charger for the sealed >batteries. If you want a charger to boost a battery that is known to be in some state less than full charge . . . anything you pick up at the car parts store is fine. Just leave it on no longer than required to top the battery off. Look for an "automatic shutoff" feature . . . this is always good too. There is NOTHING magic about chargers for flooded vis-a-vis sealed lead-acid batteries . . . I've seen some add which suggest that one needs to select a battery charger with care lest you get one that's "okay" for flooded batteries and "killer" for sealed batteries. Any charger with "killer instincts" will kill any kind of battery. If you want a maintenance charger and/or you're not looking for short term boost capability, then consider something like http://www.battery-chargers.com/catalog/6.pdf . . . here you see a little automatic charger that can be left on your battery indefinitely. This little charger will recharge a totally dead battery of any size. We had a thread on here a few weeks ago wherein someone suggested that a small maintenance or "trickle" charger was unsuited for recharging depleted batteries. Not true. As long as the charging source puts out more current than the self-discharge or leakage current within the battery, the excess current will charge the battery . . . it may take many hours to days but it WILL charge the battery. Folks have put 100 mA solar arrays on their hangars thinking that this little bit of current can't possibly hurt their battery. After sitting unattended for months, many have come out to fly only to find that their battery is cooked. "Automatic" is the key word for extended unattended operation of any charger connected to any battery technology. A charger good for both boost and maintenance is shown here: http://www.battery-chargers.com/catalog/9.pdf . . . but if you use an RG battery and fly regularly, you should never find yourself in need of a battery charger. A ground power jack for extended maintenance operations on the ground is a pretty good idea too. Bob . . . ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 05:46:22 AM PST US From: Mark Phillips Subject: AeroElectric-List: Fuse Block --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Mark Phillips What is the diameter of the connection post on the fuse blocks B&C sells? Need to order terminals! TIA- Mark ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 06:00:06 AM PST US From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: DC Power Master switch --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" > Bob: Planning simple day-VFR RV6A panel. Possiblly later on upgrade to > night VFR with one electronic ignition. I am referencing Fig Z-11 with > toggle switches. I am confused by different reference to swiches for > battery/alternator master switch (2-3 or 2-10 depends if you reference > Z-11 or switch 2-3 verbage on p11-18.) >Hopefully this was an easy question, and not too stupid. Thanks. The purpose of this switch is to make sure that alternator is never on without also having the battery on. The low-dollar solution is to use a 2-3 switch and have the battery and alternator come on and off together. When running battery only for extended periods of time, one can pull the crowbar ov breaker supplying the field to shut off the alternator. A sexier, somewhat more expensive solution is to use the progressive transfer, 2-10 switch wired so that down is OFF, mid is BAT only, up is BAB+ALT . . . then you don't have to pull the breaker to get battery-only operation. Either technique works just fine. Bob . . . ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 06:08:55 AM PST US From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: regulator/charging voltage questions --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" At 06:08 AM 2/26/2003 -0800, you wrote: >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Bob Japundza > >Hi Bob, > >I have a small Denso alternator that is indentical in >form-factor to the B&C alternator but it has the >built-in regulator. I have a lightweight 17ah >Panasonic battery that I believe will be adequate to >turn over my IO-540. This battery has the same specs >as the Odyssey but only cost $36. In the battery >datasheet Panasonic specifies a charging voltage of >14.5-14.9 volts. I noticed that the Odyssey specs are >based on a 14.7v charging voltage. At this point I am >going to disable the internal regulator so I can use >an adjustable external regulator and OV protection >without a contactor. With this in mind I have a few >questions: >1. Other than maybe a slight reduction in the lifespan >of incandescent bulbs, do you see any problems with >running the electrical system at 14.5? I assume the >13.8 volt systems were set at that voltage because >that is the ideal voltage for normal (i.e., non-rg or >vented batteries?) The nominal setpoint for system voltage in aircraft has been 14.2 for at least 40 years. Variations over the range of 13.8 to as high as 14.8 or so will have little effect on battery life ESPECIALLY if you subscribe to a preventative maintenance change-out of battery every year to INSURE a minimum capacity is available for alternator-out operations. Setpoints trending to the mid or upper half of that range are useful to assist in rapid recharge of a battery that has been tagged for a hard-start or other debilitating duty. >2. Is the difference noticable between linear >regulators such as the B&C and cheap switching-type >regulators you can buy at Autozone, as far as >electrical system noise goes? It's measurable in the lab but in practice, not significantly different. >3. With the battery in back, and the alternator in >front, I assume the place for the regulator would be >as close to the alternator as possible? No, as close to main bus as possible. >4. I haven't opened up my alternator yet, but other >than making sure all diodes are connected to the >ground and power lug respectively, is there any advice >you could offer when disabling the internal regulator? The ND alternator is not easy to modify. Mechanical features of the brush interconnection are molded into the regulator housing. Unless you've done this before, there is risk . . . How about running the built in regulator and adding external ov protection as shown in Appendix Z? Bob . . . ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 06:18:52 AM PST US From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Message resend Sheild Termination/ Power cable --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" At 06:27 AM 2/26/2003 -0500, you wrote: >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Don Boardman > >Hi Bob, > >My partner faxed you copies of the wire diagrams on Saturday in the event >mine from earlier in the week did not make it. >I am re-posting the questions in the chance you still don't have the >originals. Got the faxes. Haven't got around to looking at them yet. Will try for this evening. Bob . . . ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 06:43:24 AM PST US From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: battery charger --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" At 05:16 AM 2/27/2003 -0500, you wrote: >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jim Vosters" > >Bob, > >What do you recommend for a 24 volt power supply to power the aircraft on >the ground for extended maintenance and testing or can you just use the >battery power with a boast charger connected? That would probably work okay. The only risk is that you might hear 60/120 cycle noise on some electronics from the battery charger. This doesn't hurt anything and will obviously go away when the alternator becomes the source of energy. Again, use a charger with an automatic control of output voltage. Bob . . . ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________ Time: 06:48:50 AM PST US From: "Eric M. Jones" Subject: AeroElectric-List: Design brainstorming - help, please? --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Eric M. Jones" I read a story about a parachute maker who used to toss shove-dummies out of his airplane. Worried that one of his dummies or parachutes would get tangled on the tail, he installed a couple eyebolts under each wing and sewed a couple rings on each of his test dummies, ran a piece of wire through the mess and had a good system for testing. His only cautionary comment was, "If you put bomb racks on your Cessna, you WILL get a visit from the FBI !" This may go doubly-so in today's terrorist climate. This even worries me a bit....you're going to drop stuff from your airplane all over the beautiful spots in the West......Hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm???? And Allah is your copilot?......Hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm???? The real issues are not technical.......Hmmmmmmmmmmmmmm............? Best regards, Eric M. Jones ________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________ Time: 07:03:39 AM PST US From: Richard Dudley Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Fuse Block --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Richard Dudley Mark, The post is a 10-32 screw. Regards, Richard Dudley -6A FWF Mark Phillips wrote: > > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Mark Phillips > > What is the diameter of the connection post on the fuse blocks B&C > sells? Need to order terminals! > > TIA- Mark > ________________________________ Message 9 _____________________________________ Time: 07:36:47 AM PST US From: Rob Logan Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Design brainstorming - help, please? |July 24, 2002) at 02/27/2003 10:35:21 AM, Serialize by Router on mtasmtp2-clev/P/SERVER/PHILIPS-CLE(Release 5.0.11 |July 24, 2002) at 02/27/2003 10:35:55 AM, Serialize complete at 02/27/2003 10:35:55 AM --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Rob Logan > This may go doubly-so in today's terrorist climate. it seem like every time our little group gets together to fly some formation now a-days, we generate calls to local police. http://rob.com/pra/gwo/ the best trick we found now is to fly out of towered airports only so the police can call the tower who explains what we are doing is perfectly legal. [oh to stay on topic, I would stick with a little bag one can open with fish line, attach to wing / canard via strobe holes.. -Rob ] -- Utopian Maturity: Eternity, Liberty, Equality and now Fraternity & Altruism. ________________________________ Message 10 ____________________________________ Time: 09:37:22 AM PST US From: "Jones, Michael" Subject: AeroElectric-List: fast on connectors --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jones, Michael" Hi all Does anyone know if fast on spade terminals are all the same quality no matter where you get them, rqdio shack, home depot etc regards mike ________________________________ Message 11 ____________________________________ Time: 10:03:19 AM PST US From: Richard Tasker Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: fast on connectors --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Richard Tasker Not even close!!! Jones, Michael wrote: >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jones, Michael" > >Hi all > >Does anyone know if fast on spade terminals are all the same quality no >matter where you get them, rqdio shack, home depot etc > >regards > >mike > > > > ________________________________ Message 12 ____________________________________ Time: 10:13:53 AM PST US From: HCRV6@aol.com Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: fast on connectors --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: HCRV6@aol.com In a message dated 2/27/03 10:04:01 AM Pacific Standard Time, retasker@optonline.net writes: << -> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Richard Tasker Not even close!!! Jones, Michael wrote: >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jones, Michael" > >Hi all > >Does anyone know if fast on spade terminals are all the same quality no >matter where you get them, rqdio shack, home depot etc > >regards > >mike >> To expand on that a little, none of the fast on terminals carried by the stores you mentioned, or for that matter by most electronics stores in this area, are PIDG type. For PIDG terminals you'll probably have to order from Mouser, Digi-ky, direct from Aeroelectric, etc. Harry Crosby Pleasanton, California RV-6, firewall forward ________________________________ Message 13 ____________________________________ Time: 10:31:13 AM PST US From: "Ron Raby" Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: fast on connectors --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Ron Raby" Mike No, they are not the same quality. I would recommend t&b or amp. I also recommend buying the right tool to install them. The one the manufacturer specify's using. The racheting kind, that will not release until the lug is fully crimped. Ron Raby N829R ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jones, Michael" Subject: AeroElectric-List: fast on connectors > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Jones, Michael" > > Hi all > > Does anyone know if fast on spade terminals are all the same quality no > matter where you get them, rqdio shack, home depot etc > > regards > > mike > > ________________________________ Message 14 ____________________________________ Time: 12:23:18 PM PST US From: Mark Phillips Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Fuse Block --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Mark Phillips Thank ya kindly, sir! do not archive Richard Dudley wrote: > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Richard Dudley > > Mark, > The post is a 10-32 screw. > > Regards, > > Richard Dudley > -6A FWF ________________________________ Message 15 ____________________________________ Time: 12:24:29 PM PST US From: "G. Likar" Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Design brainstorming - help, please? --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "G. Likar" Have you thought of using shape memory alloys? Mondo-tronics has an inexpensive, very light but rugged linear actuator (electric piston). It shortens by 0.75" and can lift 1 pound. The kit came with a 6 volt Polapulse battery, same as you'll find in a Polaroid camera film pack. It will supply a up to 15amps instanteous and measures ~1/8" x 3.8" x 3", also very light. The actuator could be controlled with a reciever from a MiniRC Car, the type that kids are crasy about these days. Pick one at Walart for under $20.00. With simple circuitry between the receivers motor output and the electric piston you should end up with compact and light weight hardware with plenty of power to controll a door. Use levers to change the stroke lenght of the piston. Best regards! Gord I need brainstorming help with initial design concepts, and this is as good a group as it gets. This one's a little unusual. My father died last month. I want to scatter his ashes from my plane. My plane's a canard pusher - a Berkut - and I can't just open the window. I need to build a pod that will hold his ashes, then open a door in front and back when I push a button. There's a wing tiedown point halfway out the wing that makes a natural place to attach, but there's no electrical system available there. So, I'm thinking I'll make it self contained, with batteries built in, and radio controlled. The door actuators should be self limiting. I was thinking of electric car door lock actuators, but they seem to have a centrifugal clutch, so you can move the lock button manually and not back drive the motor. That would mean the actuator wouldn't keep the doors closed, so at the moment I'm thinking of electric car window motors, but they seem oversized and powered for the job. The radio control, I'm not sure of. I'm thinking of buying a cheap RC car and tearing it apart. All I need is "press button, switch goes on over there" - I don't need any proportionality, and once they're open they don't need to close again. I know both doors will have to open toward the rear. If anyone has any ideas either about design or sources for actuators and radio control, I'd be thankful ________________________________ Message 16 ____________________________________ Time: 12:54:50 PM PST US Subject: AeroElectric-List: Didn't mean to be pushy From: Don Boardman --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Don Boardman Hi Bob, Certainly understand. Didn't mean to be pushy. Just wanted to make sure the technology (fax) had worked. Thanks for your kind help, Don B. ________________________________ Message 17 ____________________________________ Time: 01:43:26 PM PST US From: Mark Phillips Subject: AeroElectric-List: Diode mounting --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Mark Phillips Greetings A-list- I need to put a diode in the circuit between my starter contactor (for example) and annunciator panel lamp (incandescent) for proper operation of the annunciator's push-to-test function. Does anyone know of a technique for doing this? Perhaps some automotive component? My annunciator lamps use .187 tabs and I could double the lead on a regular diode over and crimp into a red faston, then butt splice the other end of the diode, but there is nothing to support that flimsy little diode. A couple of layers of heatshrink to stiffen it up? Still not very mechanically sound. The diode sandwiched between a couple of butt splices then covered with shrink is also not too appealing. One alternative is to add a terminal strip and run all wires through it, jumpering through the diodes to adjacent terminals- adds a lot of connections and takes a lot of space, as I have 16 diodes to install. Any elegant solutions out there? Mark - do not archive - ________________________________ Message 18 ____________________________________ Time: 02:08:39 PM PST US From: cary rhodes Subject: AeroElectric-List: self exciting alternator --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: cary rhodes Bob What is the disadvantage to having a self exciting alternator w/ the regulator within the alternator? http://taxes.yahoo.com/ ________________________________ Message 19 ____________________________________ Time: 02:08:57 PM PST US From: "David Carter" Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Diode mounting --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "David Carter" 'Lectric Bob just posted a reply to another 'thread' stating that: When there is a potential problem with tension on something like a d-sub pin used as a butt splice - or a diode in a wire - he uses the technique another lister had mentioned: Make an 'S' bend of the wire containing the diode, with the diode sandwiched between the two segments of wire coming out of each end, with heat shrink over the small mass. David Carter ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mark Phillips" Subject: AeroElectric-List: Diode mounting > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Mark Phillips > > Greetings A-list- > > I need to put a diode in the circuit between my starter contactor (for > example) and annunciator panel lamp (incandescent) for proper operation > of the annunciator's push-to-test function. Does anyone know of a > technique for doing this? Perhaps some automotive component? My > annunciator lamps use .187 tabs and I could double the lead on a regular > diode over and crimp into a red faston, then butt splice the other end > of the diode, but there is nothing to support that flimsy little diode. > A couple of layers of heatshrink to stiffen it up? Still not very > mechanically sound. The diode sandwiched between a couple of butt > splices then covered with shrink is also not too appealing. > > One alternative is to add a terminal strip and run all wires through it, > jumpering through the diodes to adjacent terminals- adds a lot of > connections and takes a lot of space, as I have 16 diodes to install. > Any elegant solutions out there? > > Mark - do not archive - > > ________________________________ Message 20 ____________________________________ Time: 02:28:24 PM PST US From: N823ms@aol.com Subject: AeroElectric-List: Materials/parts --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: N823ms@aol.com Bob: Before I purchase anything from B&C or aeroelectric, will there be anybody from these two establishments be at SUN & FUN this year. Most venders at these shows, have some kind of discount. Ed Silvanic ________________________________ Message 21 ____________________________________ Time: 02:34:50 PM PST US From: N823ms@aol.com Subject: AeroElectric-List: Ford Motrorcraft alternator --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: N823ms@aol.com Bob: Just got back from my engine manufacturer that their Ford alternator does not have an internal controller. So I ask. Is this a good alternator? I am happy that it does not have an internal controller because it gives my Z-14 some simplicity, i.e. two of the same kind of controllers. So, I need one of your famous "If it were my plane" recommendations. Should I go with the Ford or switch so as to have both alternators from B&C? Regards, Ed Silvanic N823MS Lancair ES ________________________________ Message 22 ____________________________________ Time: 02:48:46 PM PST US From: Scott Bilinski Subject: AeroElectric-List: SPEAKING OF DIODES --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski I really want to understand where the diode goes on a relay. Which senario is correct. It goes from the small terminal which is switched to 12v, or to ground? Scott Bilinski Eng dept 305 Phone (858) 657-2536 Pager (858) 502-5190 ________________________________ Message 23 ____________________________________ Time: 02:52:15 PM PST US Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Design brainstorming - help, please? From: James Freeman --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: James Freeman On Thursday, February 27, 2003, at 01:07 AM, richard@riley.net wrote: > I'm going to be doing this several times, scattering a little bit at > each > of many places. Yosemite, Kill Devil Hill, La Bourget Airport, Eugene > OR > (where he was born) Laurel, MS (where his father was born). Some will > be > in the middle of cross country flights, and performance with gear down > is > awful. > OK, some tighter parameters. Aftermarket car power door lock actuators are available new for ten bucks or so. Complete keyless entry systems are a little more but you should be be able to put everything together for under $100. A couple of quick hits (from Google): http://www.commandoalarms.com/itmidx11.htm http://www.commandoalarms.com/itm10005.htm I suspect you could power everything from a single 9v battery, or a pack of AA or AAA if they really need 12v. If you mount an appropriately sized piece of thinwall tubing under the wing on your hardpoint and aligned into local flow, I wonder if you could use a sprinkler valve/servo to open the front end to the slipstream and push the ashes out the back. The potato cannon/spud gun guys use these in some pressure fed designs. HTH James Freeman ________________________________ Message 24 ____________________________________ Time: 04:23:21 PM PST US From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Materials/parts --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" At 05:27 PM 2/27/2003 -0500, you wrote: >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: N823ms@aol.com > >Bob: > > Before I purchase anything from B&C or aeroelectric, will there be >anybody from these two establishments be at SUN & FUN this year. Most venders >at these shows, have some kind of discount. B&C is usually there. Check with them at 316.283.8000 to be sure. The years I worked the shows for Bill, he didn't have show specials . . . Bob . . . ________________________________ Message 25 ____________________________________ Time: 04:27:41 PM PST US From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: Gyro connectors --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" >hi bob > >i have got my electric gyros and just got the amphenol conectors for the >back. i assume i need to get the mini pin connectors to attach to wires to >the plug that goes into the amphenol connectors, i dont solder wires to >the back of the amphenol connector. > >thank > >mike I presume the style of connector you have has loose pins. These are normally crimped to wires before the pins are inserted into the connector. They can be soldered but one has to be very careful not to allow any solder to contaminate the outside surface of the pin which will make it difficult if not impossible to seat into the connector. I will invite you to join us on the AeroElectric List to continue this and similar discussions. It's useful to share the information with as many folks as possible. You can join at . . . http://www.matronics.com/subscribe/ Thanks! Bob . . . |---------------------------------------------------| | A lie can travel half way around the world while | | the truth is till putting on its shoes . . . | | -Mark Twain- | |---------------------------------------------------| ________________________________ Message 26 ____________________________________ Time: 04:50:39 PM PST US From: William Mills Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: SPEAKING OF DIODES --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: William Mills Scott - Go to: http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles.html Scroll down to "How it works", and click on: "An illustrated discussion about spike catching diodes and how they work." It's all there. I had to read it slooowly a few times but Bob makes it quite clear. Bill >I really want to understand where the diode goes on a relay. Which senario >is correct. It goes from the small terminal which is switched to 12v, or >to ground? > > >Scott Bilinski >Eng dept 305 >Phone (858) 657-2536 >Pager (858) 502-5190 ________________________________ Message 27 ____________________________________ Time: 05:10:41 PM PST US From: LRE2@aol.com Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Ford Motrorcraft alternator --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: LRE2@aol.com Ed, Which Ford alternator are you referring to. I have done considerable research, looking for an "off the shelf" externally regulated automotive alternator, that I could easily replace, in "East Wherever," should the need arise. So far, I have not come up with one that meets my needs. If you have found one, I'd appreciate knowing the part#.........LRE ________________________________ Message 28 ____________________________________ Time: 08:38:25 PM PST US From: Subject: AeroElectric-List: Wing wiring --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Here's the layout. RV7QB. Existing holes with snap in bushings were drilled out for a 1/2" ID conduit. I have ran the landing light wire, the nav light wire and the strobe wires (Whelens)in the conduit. I also want to mount a comm antenna in one wing tip and a nav in the other. I'd like to know if I can run the coax for the nav and comm antennas in the conduit with the other wiring? Is there a potential interference problem? And, if so, how far apart should they be run? Thanks in advance. Darwin N. Barrie Chandler AZ ________________________________ Message 29 ____________________________________ Time: 08:38:25 PM PST US From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Ford Motrorcraft alternator --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" At 05:33 PM 2/27/2003 -0500, you wrote: >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: N823ms@aol.com > >Bob: > > Just got back from my engine manufacturer that their Ford alternator >does not have an internal controller. So I ask. Is this a good alternator? I >am happy that it does not have an internal controller because it gives my >Z-14 some simplicity, i.e. two of the same kind of controllers. So, I need >one of your famous "If it were my plane" recommendations. Should I go with >the Ford or switch so as to have both alternators from B&C? I thought we'd talked about this but maybe it was with someone else. If I've already bought and paid for a Ford alternator, I'd go ahead and run it. It will work fine with the B&C regulators. Who knows, I may have an alternator that's running at the top of the bell-curve. First time it craps, make a decision based on how it died and how long it took to make the fix/replace decision. That could be many years off and since you have two alternators, this approach presents zero risk. This re-enforces the idea that a system designed to be failure tolerant is more reliable than one wherein designers hope to gain reliability by specification and other forms of wishful thinking. Bob . . .