Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:18 AM - Re: fast on connectors (MikeEasley@aol.com)
2. 05:46 AM - Re: Re: How to feed the carburator solenoid (KITFOXZ@aol.com)
3. 06:58 AM - Re: Re: How to feed the carburator solenoid (Benford2@aol.com)
4. 07:51 AM - Wing-Tip VOR Antenna (LarryRobertHelming)
5. 08:17 AM - LED nav lights (Eric Schlanser)
6. 08:21 AM - Re: fast on connectors (DHPHKH@aol.com)
7. 10:01 AM - Re: Wing-Tip VOR Antenna (Carl Froehlich)
8. 10:53 AM - DC Power Master Switch (Charles Brame)
9. 12:32 PM - Re: LED nav lights (Shaun Simpkins)
10. 12:32 PM - Re: DC Power Master Switch (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
11. 01:38 PM - Firewall penetrations for wires . . . (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
12. 01:52 PM - Re: Firewall penetrations for wires . . . (RSwanson)
13. 02:44 PM - Re: LED nav lights (Jerzy Krasinski)
14. 03:17 PM - Re: Firewall penetrations for wires . . . (Sam Chambers)
15. 04:57 PM - Re: Firewall penetrations for wires . . . (Ron)
16. 05:34 PM - Re: Firewall penetrations for wires . . . (David Carter)
17. 05:38 PM - Re: Firewall penetrations for wires . . . (David Carter)
18. 05:48 PM - Contactor Locations (William Bernard)
19. 06:02 PM - Re: Firewall penetrations for wires . . . (Ron)
20. 07:02 PM - De-Rate Mini Switches? (Tinnemaha)
21. 08:18 PM - Re: De-Rate Mini Switches? (Richard E. Tasker)
22. 08:39 PM - [Re: SPEAKING OF DIODES] (bernie_c@erols.com)
23. 09:04 PM - Re: Firewall penetrations for wires . . . (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: fast on connectors |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: MikeEasley@aol.com
"Locally" for me is Colorado Springs. The surplus store is full of wire,
electronics components, hardware, etc. I actually picked up the connector
for my turn coordinator there. I'm not sure if every town has a store like
this one, but it's been a real timesaver on several occasions. Instead of
waiting 3 days for an A/S package to arrive with 30 cents worth of goodies, I
can just run down there and find what I need most times. They have plenty of
the "wrong" ring and fast-on connectors, but for most sizes they have the
"right" kind too. It's worth a check of the Yellow Pages to see if one is
hiding in your town.
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: re: How to feed the carburator solenoid |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: KITFOXZ@aol.com
In a message dated 2/28/2003 9:52:21 PM Eastern Standard Time,
jmfpublic@attbi.com writes:
> Michel,
> Use the diode approach: far more reliable than the relays, and the 0.6 volt
>
> drop through the diode won't affect anything. Once actuated, the solenoid
> likely will stay activated down to 5 or 6 volts. Besides, if you do have
> an
> alternator failure, you have sized your battery so that you can comfortably
>
> complete your flight. You do expect to replace it every year, and you will
>
> have a voltmeter, right?
>
> If you are not using a magneto type of ignition, but need battery power to
> make
> the spark, you should have either two batteries, two alternators, or both
> (as
> in the famous Z-14 revision J schematic from the 'Connection.)
>
> Jim Foerster
>
>
>
Jim,
I agree with your answer for Michel (use of steering diodes instead of
relays) but, I am wondering if that carb's fuel solenoid is even needed at
all. I believe some carbs were fitted with those solenoids for a number of
years to prevent "dieseling" in very lean tuned cars prior to catalytic
converters making their entrance to automotive engineering.
Could this fuel solenoid be bypassed or removed entirely? Is an electrical
fuel shut off device needed anywhere at all? Is this an area where KISS is
more appropriate?
John P. Marzluf
Columbus, Ohio
Kitfox Outback, (out back in the garage)
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: re: How to feed the carburator solenoid |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Benford2@aol.com
In a message dated 3/1/2003 6:46:34 AM Mountain Standard Time,
KITFOXZ@aol.com writes:
>
> Jim,
>
> I agree with your answer for Michel (use of steering diodes instead of
> relays) but, I am wondering if that carb's fuel solenoid is even needed at
> all. I believe some carbs were fitted with those solenoids for a number of
>
> years to prevent "dieseling" in very lean tuned cars prior to catalytic
> converters making their entrance to automotive engineering.
>
> Could this fuel solenoid be bypassed or removed entirely? Is an electrical
>
> fuel shut off device needed anywhere at all? Is this an area where KISS is
>
> more appropriate?
>
>
All Holley carbs I have seen have a soleniod thats attached to the linkage
and when activated it raises the idle speed. If this soleniod really cuts off
the fuel supply to the float bowl it would make a great mixture control
circuit. Tell us exactly where this thing is placed on the carb and maybe we
can figure out what ya got there. Ben Haas N801BH.
Message 4
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| Subject: | Wing-Tip VOR Antenna |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming@sigecom.net>
Bob, your drawing in Figure 13-12 of your manual (page 13-16) shows the
center conductor of the coax feedline connected to the short strip of 2.5"
aluminum. I suggest we are receiving signals with frequency centered around
113 MHZ having a wave length of 2.65 meters or 104". I suggest 1/4 of 104
is a lot more than 2.5"
I just wanted to double check that this is the correct connection having the
center conductor with the 2.5" strip and to help make sure I am not
misreading your drawing. Are you suggesting the majority of the rest of the
antenna structure that grounds the shielding is somehow enhancing the 2.5"
so it works like 26" even though it is not 26" long? Is that what you
mean by writing on page 13-15, "It is a quarter-wave, grounded base antenna
with a 'gamma matching' network for the coaxial feedline.?"
Thanks,
Larry in Indiana
Message 5
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Eric Schlanser <eschlanser@yahoo.com>
I found some trailer clearance lights at the local Autovalue store. They are PMLights
3 LED lights and are only 7/8" tall for $15. They would be the right size.
Does anyone know if they are bright enough? Check out pmlights.com and look
for the Pirahna lights V160KR series clearance light kits. Unfortunately, they
only are available in red or amber. Maybe the manufacturer would make some
in green if asked.
:Eric - in Michigan
---------------------------------
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: fast on connectors |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: DHPHKH@aol.com
<<hardware store terminals>>
Gee Bob, you really know how to hurt a guy <g>
My comments were directed to the concept of using quality heat shrink as
a method of terminal insulation and prevention of wire fatigue. It also
looks better than squashed nylon and requires less physical space. The
trade-off is some additional time investment. I'm not running a production
line.
As for the uninsulated terminals themselves, I merely said "good
quality". Maybe I wasn't specific enough. I'd prefer to think that the
average guy on this list can figure out the difference between garbage and
good. Decent Type 2 brazed barrel ring terminals are easy to find in small
sizes. The style you carry on the AC webside are best for big terminals.
Most wiring in the average airplane terminates with something other than
a Faston style terminal. However, you'll be amused to know I use Amp PIDG
Fastons when needed, and yes, I have the installation tool. You'll be
further amused to hear that if you place one butt first on the bench, it
takes a single tangent stroke of a knife to remove the nylon insulation
sheath. You can prep 20 in about 2 minutes. Double crimp it, apply some 3
to 1 1/4" adhesive heat shrink, and it nicely matches all the other wiring.
Since removing the average Faston from it's tab usually involves
wiggling/pulling on the attached wire, I trust adhesive heat shrink to
maintain integrity far more than that little bitty insulation crimp.
I fully agree that you should not use substitutes without due dilligence,
including simple tests in your own shop.
Old buddy, I ain't trying to teach you how to suck eggs. It's just an
alternate method.
Dan Horton
Message 7
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| Subject: | Wing-Tip VOR Antenna |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Carl Froehlich" <carlfro@erols.com>
Larry - the short strip of aluminum is not the antenna - it is part of the
gamma match. The gamma match is an impedance transform network to match the
impedance of the antenna to the feed line.
Note RF is very much different than DC. This antenna is at DC ground
potential, but certainly not grounded for RF. Unless you can find yourself
a local amateur radio operator (that has been around the block a few times)
to walk you through this just copy the drawing exactly.
I am using a much modified wing tip antenna for my comm radio and am quite
please with its performance- but I have been playing with antennas for 30
years and have the necessary test equipment to make them work.
Carl Froehlich
RV-8A (flying)
Vienna, VA
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of
LarryRobertHelming
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Wing-Tip VOR Antenna
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming"
<lhelming@sigecom.net>
Bob, your drawing in Figure 13-12 of your manual (page 13-16) shows the
center conductor of the coax feedline connected to the short strip of 2.5"
aluminum. I suggest we are receiving signals with frequency centered around
113 MHZ having a wave length of 2.65 meters or 104". I suggest 1/4 of 104
is a lot more than 2.5"
I just wanted to double check that this is the correct connection having the
center conductor with the 2.5" strip and to help make sure I am not
misreading your drawing. Are you suggesting the majority of the rest of the
antenna structure that grounds the shielding is somehow enhancing the 2.5"
so it works like 26" even though it is not 26" long? Is that what you
mean by writing on page 13-15, "It is a quarter-wave, grounded base antenna
with a 'gamma matching' network for the coaxial feedline.?"
Thanks,
Larry in Indiana
Message 8
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| Subject: | DC Power Master Switch |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Charles Brame <charleyb@earthlink.net>
I should have been more explicit.
I am using the Z-13, All Electric on a Budget system with a couple of
minor modifications. My setup has separate Alternator and DC Power
switches. The "DC Power" switch is a key operated, automotive style,
OFF-ON-AUX switch. The ON or "Main" position will control the Battery
Contactor, thus all battery powered busses except the Battery Bus. The
AUX or "Essential Power" position will power an Essential bus via the
Battery bus. A separate ON-Off-ON lever lock toggle switch controls the
main and aux alternators (both alternators cannot be on at the same
time, with both being off when the switch is centered.) It will take
moving two separate switches to completely shut off electrical power -
no big deal in my opinion, except...
What concerned me was your statement that the alternator should not be
running if the battery master was turned off and I am still wondering if
there are any serious consequences of the alternator running without the
Master (DC Power) switch ON?
Charlie Brame
RV-6A N11CB
San Antonio
--------------------
> Time: 11:10:15 AM PST US
> From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: DC Power Master Switch
>
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
> <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
>
> At 12:37 PM 2/28/2003 -0600, you wrote:
> >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Charles Brame
> ><charleyb@earthlink.net>
> >
> >My apologies. The previous message got sent before I finished.
> >
> >My set up does not have a common switch for the battery and
> alternator.
> >There is little chance the alternator would be on without the battery
> >being connected, but it is physically possible.
>
>
> If it's "connected" all the time, then it's ready to go to
> work as soon as the bus comes up with battery voltage. Once
> you're past this milestone, how do you turn it OFF?
>
>
> >With reference to your statement about making sure the alternator
> >doesn't run while the battery is not connected: what are the
> >consequences of doing this?
>
> Suppose you have smoke in the cockpit and you want to shut
> down the whole system? How do you do this if the alternator
> doesn't get controlled by way of the DC PWR MSTR switch?
> You can turn the battery of, the alternator continues to
> run self-excited, and smoke continues to roll.
>
> The DC PWR MSTR switch isn't a MASTER switch unless you
> wire it up such that it truly has ultimate control over
> all power sources in the airplane.
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: LED nav lights |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Shaun Simpkins" <shauns@hevanet.com>
Pirahnas are pretty good LEDs, but there are some very restrictive FAA
requirements on the luminosity and
beam pattern for position lights that make trailer clearance lights
generally unacceptable.
There is a very sharp cutoff to the rear for side position
lights, and a strongly forward biased beam pattern that requires most of the
light to be between dead ahead
and 30 degrees off dead ahead. The intensity has to be very high; it's
only be recently that super bright
LEDs with adequate beam spread have come on market that can meet these
needs.
A further problem with LEDs is that they are a diffuse light source - so the
trick that incandescent position
lights use - beam shaping lenses and reflectors - doesn't work. Instead,
arrays of LEDs must be configured
so as to give the proper beam shape.
Look at Whelen's website for their latest LED position lights. The tail
light, having the widest required beam
pattern, consists of 72 (!) white LEDs in a curved array. Their Red and
White position lights consist of 6
super bright LEDs mounted in 3 rows of two with reflecting panels.
Some ultrabright white, red, and green LEDs called Luxeon Stars (
http://www.luxeon.com ) have come on
market that are promising. They come in 1 and 5 watt sizes, and are being
designed in to many commercial
fixtures. In general, it appears that an LED solution for incandescent
replacement of position lights will be
able to save perhaps 1/2 to 2/3 of the power, as long as the beam shaping
demands are not too great.
Shaun
----- Original Message -----
From: "Eric Schlanser" <eschlanser@yahoo.com>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: LED nav lights
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Eric Schlanser
<eschlanser@yahoo.com>
>
>
> I found some trailer clearance lights at the local Autovalue store. They
are PMLights 3 LED lights and are only 7/8" tall for $15. They would be the
right size. Does anyone know if they are bright enough? Check out
pmlights.com and look for the Pirahna lights V160KR series clearance light
kits. Unfortunately, they only are available in red or amber. Maybe the
manufacturer would make some in green if asked.
>
> :Eric - in Michigan
>
>
> ---------------------------------
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: DC Power Master Switch |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 12:52 PM 3/1/2003 -0600, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Charles Brame
><charleyb@earthlink.net>
>
>I should have been more explicit.
>
>I am using the Z-13, All Electric on a Budget system with a couple of
>minor modifications. My setup has separate Alternator and DC Power
>switches. The "DC Power" switch is a key operated, automotive style,
>OFF-ON-AUX switch. The ON or "Main" position will control the Battery
>Contactor, thus all battery powered busses except the Battery Bus. The
>AUX or "Essential Power" position will power an Essential bus via the
>Battery bus. A separate ON-Off-ON lever lock toggle switch controls the
>main and aux alternators (both alternators cannot be on at the same
>time, with both being off when the switch is centered.) It will take
>moving two separate switches to completely shut off electrical power -
>no big deal in my opinion, except...
>
>What concerned me was your statement that the alternator should not be
>running if the battery master was turned off and I am still wondering if
>there are any serious consequences of the alternator running without the
>Master (DC Power) switch ON?
The drawings published are the result of many years
of consideration of operating details, failure modes
and effects, and cost of ownership. Your minor modifications
may not be so minor. Without sitting down to thrash through
all of the ramifications, I can only advise that as the
designer and builder of your own airplane, you're certainly
entitled to build in any features or conveniences you've
deduced as useful and appropriate.
Without testing a particular alternator/regulator combination
for no-battery behavior, the outcome cannot be predicted.
The hardware used on Bonanzas and Barons have been tested
and deemed acceptable (these alternators are also "self
exciting" in that they will come on line without a battery).
There is risk that your particular combination will behave
poorly under some conditions. To insure that this is never
a problem, all of our drawings depict techniques that force
the alternator off any time the battery is off. Certain
additions such as the e-bus alternate feedpath and a second
engine driven power source make for a very robust, failure
tolerant system.
Departures from what's shown are not discouraged as long
as the builder has taken the time to deduce all the
ramifications and make sure that what's perceived as
an "improvement" really turns out to be something else.
Bob . . .
Message 11
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| Subject: | Firewall penetrations for wires . . . |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
This topic has come up many times over the years. Should
have done this article sooner. Anyhow, better late than
never. Took the camera over to the Bonanza line yesterday
and got illustrations for this comic book . . .
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/Firewall_Penetration/firewall.html
Bob . . .
|-------------------------------------------------------|
| The man who does not read good books has no advantage |
| over the man who cannot read them. |
| - Mark Twain |
|-------------------------------------------------------|
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Firewall penetrations for wires . . . |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: RSwanson <rswan19@comcast.net>
As usual, sir, an excellent job! The pics really are worth a thousand
words in this case.
R
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Firewall penetrations for wires . . .
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
<bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
>
> This topic has come up many times over the years. Should
> have done this article sooner. Anyhow, better late than
> never. Took the camera over to the Bonanza line yesterday
> and got illustrations for this comic book . . .
>
> http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/Firewall_Penetration/firewall.html
>
> Bob . . .
>
> |-------------------------------------------------------|
> | The man who does not read good books has no advantage |
> | over the man who cannot read them. |
> | - Mark Twain |
> |-------------------------------------------------------|
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: LED nav lights |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Jerzy Krasinski <krasinski@direcway.com>
Eric,
If you wanted to make LED nav lights you might look at
http://www.stores.ebay.com/id=70930951
It is an EBAY store - a company in the Far East selling mostly strong
Megabright LEDs and LED gadgets. They have greens, whites and reds
(right now there is no listing for reds but I checked and they have
them). The typical output is 5cd per diode, and typical beam spread is
10 degrees, but they might have different stuff too. Prices are good,
they sell them in hundreds for ~ $15/100. There is a shipment charge of
$10.
Jerzy
Eric Schlanser wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Eric Schlanser <eschlanser@yahoo.com>
>
>
>I found some trailer clearance lights at the local Autovalue store. They are PMLights
3 LED lights and are only 7/8" tall for $15. They would be the right size.
Does anyone know if they are bright enough? Check out pmlights.com and look
for the Pirahna lights V160KR series clearance light kits. Unfortunately, they
only are available in red or amber. Maybe the manufacturer would make some
in green if asked.
>
>:Eric - in Michigan
>
>
>---------------------------------
>
>
>
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Firewall penetrations for wires . . . |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Sam Chambers" <schamber@glasgow-ky.com>
Bob,
Thanks, talk about timing, I am just about ready to do a couple of
penetrations and had been trying to figure out a neat way to do it.
Sam Chambers
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Firewall penetrations for wires . . .
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
<bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
>
> This topic has come up many times over the years. Should
> have done this article sooner. Anyhow, better late than
> never. Took the camera over to the Bonanza line yesterday
> and got illustrations for this comic book . . .
>
> http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/Firewall_Penetration/firewall.html
>
> Bob . . .
>
> |-------------------------------------------------------|
> | The man who does not read good books has no advantage |
> | over the man who cannot read them. |
> | - Mark Twain |
> |-------------------------------------------------------|
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | Firewall penetrations for wires . . . |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Ron <rondefly@pacbell.net>
For a second thought on penetrations. I am a building contractor and found I
could use several different type of stainless rails or towel racks. One I am
using has about a 2"DX1/8"thick flange with 5/8" stainless tube welded to
it. I cut the tube off to 1" long. Fits well with the tube going through the
firewall, the wire going through the tube then fill the tube overflowing
with fire stop caulking. We use it all the time for Wall penetrations into a
corridor. You can get the caulk in varying safety degree's. Most of the
flanges have two holes drilled in them and you could attach to the firewall
squished with fire caulk and stainless screws.
Ron Triano
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Sam
Chambers
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Firewall penetrations for wires . . .
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Sam Chambers"
<schamber@glasgow-ky.com>
Bob,
Thanks, talk about timing, I am just about ready to do a couple of
penetrations and had been trying to figure out a neat way to do it.
Sam Chambers
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Firewall penetrations for wires . . .
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
<bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
>
> This topic has come up many times over the years. Should
> have done this article sooner. Anyhow, better late than
> never. Took the camera over to the Bonanza line yesterday
> and got illustrations for this comic book . . .
>
> http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/Firewall_Penetration/firewall.html
>
> Bob . . .
>
> |-------------------------------------------------------|
> | The man who does not read good books has no advantage |
> | over the man who cannot read them. |
> | - Mark Twain |
> |-------------------------------------------------------|
>
>
Message 16
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|
| Subject: | Re: Firewall penetrations for wires . . . |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "David Carter" <dcarter@datarecall.net>
Ron, got a manufacturer name and/or part number and typical source for the
item?
David Carter
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ron" <rondefly@pacbell.net>
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Firewall penetrations for wires . . .
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Ron <rondefly@pacbell.net>
>
> For a second thought on penetrations. I am a building contractor and found
I
> could use several different type of stainless rails or towel racks. One I
am
> using has about a 2"DX1/8"thick flange with 5/8" stainless tube welded to
> it. I cut the tube off to 1" long. Fits well with the tube going through
the
> firewall, the wire going through the tube then fill the tube overflowing
> with fire stop caulking. We use it all the time for Wall penetrations into
a
> corridor. You can get the caulk in varying safety degree's. Most of the
> flanges have two holes drilled in them and you could attach to the
firewall
> squished with fire caulk and stainless screws.
>
> Ron Triano
>
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Firewall penetrations for wires . . . |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "David Carter" <dcarter@datarecall.net>
Bob,
Excellent pictures. What is the white "sheet" of material wrapped around
the wires in the engine compartment (coming out of the stainless steel
firewall fitting)? Is it "white fire sleeve" or something else?
Fire stop putty might have a tendancy to "migrate" out from under the clamp?
So, strips of fire sleeve material, as you showed, would be firmer and tend
to stay in place better - could put a small amount of fire putty inside
in/amongst the wires, under the wire sleeve "packing band". Do I have the
correct idea here?
David Carter
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Firewall penetrations for wires . . .
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
<bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
>
> This topic has come up many times over the years. Should
> have done this article sooner. Anyhow, better late than
> never. Took the camera over to the Bonanza line yesterday
> and got illustrations for this comic book . . .
>
> http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/Firewall_Penetration/firewall.html
>
> Bob . . .
>
> |-------------------------------------------------------|
> | The man who does not read good books has no advantage |
> | over the man who cannot read them. |
> | - Mark Twain |
> |-------------------------------------------------------|
>
>
Message 18
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| Subject: | Contactor Locations |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "William Bernard" <billbernard@worldnet.att.net>
First, Thanks for the responses on the heat sink for the diode. I don't believe
that the e-bus loads will be 10 amps, but I thought it would give me some safety
factor since nothing is actually wired yet.
The nest question I have is to see if there are any problems with where I plan
to physically locate the various contactors in the aircraft. (The aircraft is
a Wittman Tailwind.) The battery is behind the seat and the battery contactor
(and battery bus) will mount near the battery. There will be a 2AWG wire running
to the starter contactor. I'm planning to locate the starter contactor on the
engine side of the firewall, about 5 feet from the battery. The b-lead from
the alternator will run back to the battery side of the starter contactor. The
ground power plug will also connect to the battery side of the starter contactor.
The ground power plug will be located on the firewall and accessed through
a hole in the cowl.
Are there any major problems with locating things where indicated? Also, is there
any need to protect the battery side of the starter contactor from the possibility
of an arc to the firewall? The terminal, with three pretty big wires on
it, will be about an inch away from the firewall (stainless steel). I haven't
seen any of the little rubber boots that would accomodate 3 wires like this.
Thanks again for the help.
Bill
Message 19
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| Subject: | Firewall penetrations for wires . . . |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Ron <rondefly@pacbell.net>
Stainless towel bars are available almost anywhere you buy towels. If you
need larger you could make one from stainless or use handicap grab bars.
Ron Triano
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of David
Carter
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Firewall penetrations for wires . . .
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "David Carter"
<dcarter@datarecall.net>
Ron, got a manufacturer name and/or part number and typical source for the
item?
David Carter
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ron" <rondefly@pacbell.net>
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: Firewall penetrations for wires . . .
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Ron <rondefly@pacbell.net>
>
> For a second thought on penetrations. I am a building contractor and found
I
> could use several different type of stainless rails or towel racks. One I
am
> using has about a 2"DX1/8"thick flange with 5/8" stainless tube welded to
> it. I cut the tube off to 1" long. Fits well with the tube going through
the
> firewall, the wire going through the tube then fill the tube overflowing
> with fire stop caulking. We use it all the time for Wall penetrations into
a
> corridor. You can get the caulk in varying safety degree's. Most of the
> flanges have two holes drilled in them and you could attach to the
firewall
> squished with fire caulk and stainless screws.
>
> Ron Triano
>
Message 20
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| Subject: | De-Rate Mini Switches? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Tinnemaha" <Tinnemaha@charter.net>
Hello List,
This is my first post. I am building a 12 Volt system and want to incorporate
Alco Ultra-Mini Toggle switches wherever possible but I need advice:
The catalog says the switches are rated for 6 amps at 125 V AC and 4 amps at 28
V DC: Can I assume they are rated for 8 amps at 14 V?
AC 43-13 requires de-rating factors to be applied to switches (factors vary according
to voltage & type of load): Do you apply the same de-rating factors?
Do you know if miniature switches with a higher amperage rating are available?
Thanks,
Grant
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: De-Rate Mini Switches? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Richard E. Tasker" <retasker@optonline.net>
No, the rating at 14V would be essentially the same as 28V. The switch
ratings are based on two factors: the steady state current handling
capacity of the contacts and, when switched from on to off, the ability
to break the current carried by the switch and quench the internal arc
caused by opening the switch contacts.
The ratings you quote indicate that the physical current handling
capacity is 6 amps steady state - which limits the 125VAC rating. The
reason the DC rating is less is due to the second limitation. With AC,
the current goes through zero 120 times per second,which serves very
nicely to quench the arc when switching a load off. With DC, the
current is continuous so the contacts have to open wide enough to cause
the internal arc to quench.
Bottom line - do not use this switch for more than 4A continuous at 14 VDC.
Dick Tasker
Tinnemaha wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Tinnemaha" <Tinnemaha@charter.net>
>
>Hello List,
>
>This is my first post. I am building a 12 Volt system and want to incorporate
Alco Ultra-Mini Toggle switches wherever possible but I need advice:
>
>The catalog says the switches are rated for 6 amps at 125 V AC and 4 amps at 28
V DC: Can I assume they are rated for 8 amps at 14 V?
>
>AC 43-13 requires de-rating factors to be applied to switches (factors vary according
to voltage & type of load): Do you apply the same de-rating factors?
>
>Do you know if miniature switches with a higher amperage rating are available?
>
>
Thanks,
>
Grant
>
>
>
>
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: SPEAKING OF DIODES] |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: bernie_c@erols.com
-------- Original Message --------
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: SPEAKING OF DIODES
From: bernie_c@erols.com
This is what I read fairly recently to re-educate myself about what
was going on with the currents during these events. It shows the
diode in parallel with the coil, oriented to block the current
through the diode with the switch closed.
<<http://www.hedonline.com/Documents/Coils.pdf>>
That's NOT hedonism. The HED is Hydro Electronic Devices, Inc.
2001
Bernie C.
William Mills wrote:
>
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: William Mills <courierboy@earthlink.net>
>
> Scott -
>
> Go to:
> http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles.html
> Scroll down to "How it works", and click on:
> "An illustrated discussion about spike catching diodes and how they work."
>
> It's all there. I had to read it slooowly a few times but Bob makes
> it quite clear.
>
> Bill
>
> >I really want to understand where the diode goes on a relay. Which senario
> >is correct. It goes from the small terminal which is switched to 12v, or
> >to ground?
> >
> >
> >Scott Bilinski
> >Eng dept 305
> >Phone (858) 657-2536
> >Pager (858) 502-5190
>
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Firewall penetrations for wires . . . |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 07:37 PM 3/1/2003 -0600, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "David Carter"
><dcarter@datarecall.net>
>
>Bob,
>
>Excellent pictures. What is the white "sheet" of material wrapped around
>the wires in the engine compartment (coming out of the stainless steel
>firewall fitting)? Is it "white fire sleeve" or something else?
That is silicon rubber covered, fiberglas sleeving . . .
similar to the stuff we sell in our fusible link kits.
This is not a necessary component of the fire-stopping
abilities of technique described.
>Fire stop putty might have a tendancy to "migrate" out from under the clamp?
Don't know why it would . . .
>So, strips of fire sleeve material, as you showed, would be firmer and tend
>to stay in place better - could put a small amount of fire putty inside
>in/amongst the wires, under the wire sleeve "packing band". Do I have the
>correct idea here?
The putty has been used for a very long time in this an similar
applications. I don't think I'd diddle with the technique without
substantive testing or analysis as to what benefits it might
offer.
Bob . . .
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