Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:15 AM - Ring-terminal sizes needed? (czechsix@juno.com)
2. 12:15 AM - Min. wire size for mic/headphone wiring? (czechsix@juno.com)
3. 05:31 AM - Re: Ring-terminal sizes needed? (Glles.Thesee)
4. 05:31 AM - Re: Aux battery Low Voltage notification (Glles.Thesee)
5. 06:32 AM - Re: Aux battery Low Voltage notification (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
6. 06:36 AM - Re: Min. wire size for mic/headphone wiring? (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
7. 06:46 AM - Re: Ring-terminal sizes needed? (Richard Dudley)
8. 07:23 AM - Re: Ring-terminal sizes needed? (DHPHKH@aol.com)
9. 08:14 AM - Re: Ring-terminal sizes needed? (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
10. 08:24 AM - Re: Ring-terminal sizes needed? (Joel Harding)
11. 08:25 AM - Re: Noise in 760 installation (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
12. 08:27 AM - Re: Microair Transponder harness and (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
13. 09:55 AM - Re: Battery bus location (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
14. 11:50 AM - Re: Re: Battery bus location (Mark Phillips)
15. 11:57 AM - Re: Audio Isolation Amp (nhulin)
16. 11:59 AM - FAST-ON RELIABILITY (Julia)
17. 12:14 PM - Re: FAST-ON RELIABILITY (RSwanson)
18. 12:17 PM - Re: Firewall Wire Penetration (Julia)
19. 12:17 PM - Re: Firewall Wire Penetration (Julia)
20. 12:20 PM - Firewall Penetration (Julia)
21. 12:41 PM - Battery Charger (Dan Checkoway)
22. 01:09 PM - Re: FAST-ON RELIABILITY (Neville Kilford)
23. 02:03 PM - Re: Re: Noise in 760 installation (Duncan McBride)
24. 02:03 PM - RFI (MARK H DELANO)
25. 02:08 PM - Clock consumption (Glles.Thesee)
26. 02:08 PM - Re: FAST-ON RELIABILITY (Kevin Horton)
27. 02:37 PM - Re: Re: Noise in 760 installation (RSwanson)
28. 02:56 PM - strobe wire extension (Robert Dickson)
29. 04:41 PM - Re: Battery Charger (CBFLESHREN@aol.com)
30. 05:38 PM - Re: FAST-ON RELIABILITY (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
31. 06:33 PM - Re: strobe wire extension (Sam Buchanan)
32. 07:07 PM - Re: strobe wire extension (Robert Dickson)
33. 07:45 PM - Transponder antenna position (John Slade)
34. 10:25 PM - Re: Re: Battery bus location (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
35. 10:36 PM - Re: Clock consumption (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
36. 10:39 PM - Re: RFI (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Ring-terminal sizes needed? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: czechsix@juno.com
Can someone tell me the stud sizes for the following items so I'll know
what size ring terminals to get for them?
B&C L-40 Alternator B-lead stud
ANL-40 Current Limiter studs
Fuseblock Stud
24 Tab Groundblock bolt
Thanks,
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A N2D firewall forward and wiring...
Message 2
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| Subject: | Min. wire size for mic/headphone wiring? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: czechsix@juno.com
I have some twisted-shielded and triple-shielded wire given to me by a
friend and I'm not sure exactly what gauge it is, but it looks pretty
small--24 or 26 awg perhaps. Is this adequate for wiring my
intercom-to-mic and -headphone jacks? I'm assuming so, but not
absolutely certain since there's no min size wiring stated in the
literature for my Flightcom 403 intercom.
Also, even if the wire gauge is adequate electrically, is anything
smaller than 22 awg physically robust enough to stand up to long-term
vibration? I'd rather buy some heavier wire and do it right the first
time than have to fix it later....
Thanks,
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A N2D firewall forward and wiring....
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Ring-terminal sizes needed? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Glles.Thesee" <Gilles.Thesee@ac-grenoble.fr>
----- Message d'origine -----
De : <czechsix@juno.com>
: <aeroelectric-list@matronics.com>
Envoy : dimanche 9 mars 2003 09:02
Objet : AeroElectric-List: Ring-terminal sizes needed?
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: czechsix@juno.com
>
> Can someone tell me the stud sizes for the following items so I'll know
> what size ring terminals to get for them?
>
> B&C L-40 Alternator B-lead stud
> ANL-40 Current Limiter studs
> Fuseblock Stud
> 24 Tab Groundblock bolt
>
> Thanks,
>
> --Mark Navratil
> Cedar Rapids, Iowa
> RV-8A N2D firewall forward and wiring...
>
Hi all,
May I add B&C 5 amp circuit breaker to this list?
Thanks,
Gilles Thesee
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Aux battery Low Voltage notification |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Glles.Thesee" <Gilles.Thesee@ac-grenoble.fr>
>
> You need either (1) relay to control aux battery power to the LVW
> module when the system is shut down. The LVW module draws
> about 10mA which is about 30-100 times the self-discharge
> current of your RG battery . . . will run it down in due
> course -OR- (2) make the AUX battery master a two-pole switch
> and use second pole to control power to the LVW module.
>
> Bob . . .
Bob,
Thank you for your response. Any suggestions for the type of relay ? Or will
just any miniature 12 V relay do ?
Cheers
Gilles
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Aux battery Low Voltage notification |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 12:33 PM 3/9/2003 +0100, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Glles.Thesee"
><Gilles.Thesee@ac-grenoble.fr>
>
> >
> > You need either (1) relay to control aux battery power to the LVW
> > module when the system is shut down. The LVW module draws
> > about 10mA which is about 30-100 times the self-discharge
> > current of your RG battery . . . will run it down in due
> > course -OR- (2) make the AUX battery master a two-pole switch
> > and use second pole to control power to the LVW module.
> >
> > Bob . . .
>
>Bob,
>
>Thank you for your response. Any suggestions for the type of relay ? Or will
>just any miniature 12 V relay do ?
Anything will do.
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Min. wire size for mic/headphone wiring? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 02:09 AM 3/9/2003 -0600, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: czechsix@juno.com
>
>I have some twisted-shielded and triple-shielded wire given to me by a
>friend and I'm not sure exactly what gauge it is, but it looks pretty
>small--24 or 26 awg perhaps. Is this adequate for wiring my
>intercom-to-mic and -headphone jacks? I'm assuming so, but not
>absolutely certain since there's no min size wiring stated in the
>literature for my Flightcom 403 intercom.
any size is fine electrically . . .
>Also, even if the wire gauge is adequate electrically, is anything
>smaller than 22 awg physically robust enough to stand up to long-term
>vibration? I'd rather buy some heavier wire and do it right the first
>time than have to fix it later....
>
>Thanks,
The risks are at the joints where support of the wire
near the joint is needed. PIDG does this automatically.
Heatshink on soldered connections to jacks and back shells
on connectors takes care of the rest of the joints.
Heat shrink large enough to go over the terminal on
a headset or mic jack won't close down enough to
support even a 20 or 22AWG wire. You can build up
the diameter of the smaller wire with two layers
of small heatshrink before you solder it to the
jack and install the larger heatshrink to stabilize
the whole thing.
Bob . . .
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Ring-terminal sizes needed? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Richard Dudley <rhdudley@att.net>
Mark,
FWIW
- My B&C L-60A alternator B lead stud is 1/4"
- The ANL fuseholder in which I have a L-60 fuse has 5/16" terminals
- My fuse blocks from Aeroelectric have #10 studs
- My 24/48 tab groundblock from Aeroelectric has a 5/16" bolt
Hope this helps.
Regards,
Richard Dudley
-6A FWF wired, fitting cowl, N331RD (reserved)
czechsix@juno.com wrote:
>
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: czechsix@juno.com
>
> Can someone tell me the stud sizes for the following items so I'll know
> what size ring terminals to get for them?
>
> B&C L-40 Alternator B-lead stud
> ANL-40 Current Limiter studs
> Fuseblock Stud
> 24 Tab Groundblock bolt
>
> Thanks,
>
> --Mark Navratil
> Cedar Rapids, Iowa
> RV-8A N2D firewall forward and wiring...
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Ring-terminal sizes needed? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: DHPHKH@aol.com
<< B&C L-40 Alternator B-lead stud>> Probably 6mm, 1/4" ring is fine
<> 5/16"
<<Fuseblock Stud>> Don't know. #10 or 1/4 is my guess
<<24 Tab Groundblock bolt>> 5/16"
<<5 amp circuit breaker >> Usually #8. Buy a bag of #6 too; you'll use them
up.
Don't forget to order what you'll need for wire stabilization. Easier
to have it on hand so you can judge wire routing as you string and terminate.
For example, the alternator B-lead will likely need three MS cushion clamps.
One stabilizes the wire on the back of the alternator, one might tie to the
engine case halfway along the run to keep the wire forever clear of bad
things, and one might tie to a motor mount tube before going to a
firewall-mounted ANL terminal. In this example the wire's "flex section" is
between the case tie point and the motor mount tie point. Nothing is allowed
to wobble a wire termination.
Dan
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Ring-terminal sizes needed? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 01:56 PM 3/9/2003 +0100, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Glles.Thesee"
><Gilles.Thesee@ac-grenoble.fr>
>
>
>----- Message d'origine -----
>De : <czechsix@juno.com>
> : <aeroelectric-list@matronics.com>
>Envoy : dimanche 9 mars 2003 09:02
>Objet : AeroElectric-List: Ring-terminal sizes needed?
>
>
> > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: czechsix@juno.com
> >
> > Can someone tell me the stud sizes for the following items so I'll know
> > what size ring terminals to get for them?
> >
> > B&C L-40 Alternator B-lead stud
> > ANL-40 Current Limiter studs
> > Fuseblock Stud
> > 24 Tab Groundblock bolt
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > --Mark Navratil
> > Cedar Rapids, Iowa
> > RV-8A N2D firewall forward and wiring...
> >
>
>Hi all,
>
>May I add B&C 5 amp circuit breaker to this list?
Most are #6 screws. There are a few that are #8
Bob . . .
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Ring-terminal sizes needed? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Joel Harding <cajole76@ispwest.com>
Mark,
I think I can help you out.
Alt B-lead 1/4 "
Current Limiter 5/16"
Fuseblock 3/16"
Ground block 5/16"
Joel Harding
On Sunday, March 9, 2003, at 01:02 AM, czechsix@juno.com wrote:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: czechsix@juno.com
>
> Can someone tell me the stud sizes for the following items so I'll know
> what size ring terminals to get for them?
>
> B&C L-40 Alternator B-lead stud
> ANL-40 Current Limiter studs
> Fuseblock Stud
> 24 Tab Groundblock bolt
>
> Thanks,
>
> --Mark Navratil
> Cedar Rapids, Iowa
> RV-8A N2D firewall forward and wiring...
>
>
> _-
> ======================================================================
> _-
> ======================================================================
> _-
> ======================================================================
> _-
> ======================================================================
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Noise in 760 installation |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 09:19 PM 3/6/2003 -0500, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Duncan McBride
><duncanmcbride@comcast.net>
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
>To: <Recipient list suppressed>
>Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: 10378 Fluent
>
> > If you experience any kind of noise problems (don't
> > know what, if any, noise filtering may be part of
> > Icom's adapter), you may need to do something
> > like:
> >
> > http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/filter/filter.html
> >
> > to clean up ship's power to the Icom's liking.
> >
> > Bob . . .
> >
>
>I have the MicroAir 760 in my Rotax 912 powered Kolb Twinstar. It's wired
>as in your diagram, with the shields from the headphone and mic going to the
>mic lo pin on the MicroAir. The only wires going to the panel ground are
>from the two ground pins and the intercom ground, through a switch. I'm
>getting a very loud alternator or ignition whine when I use the PTT or
>intercom switch. The noise frequency and volume is directly proportional to
>rpm. Same noise with transmit or intercom, so would it be the antenna? I
>have a computer grade electrolytic capacitor in the charging circuit 14V,
>22k mf (wiring is appendix Z-7 all the way) Would trying the RadioShack
>filter above be the next thing to try?
Try running the radio from a 12 battery independent of
the ship's electrical system. A couple of 6v lantern
batteries from WalMart will work fine. If the radio
is quiet with independent battery, then a filter
like the one cited will probably fix it.
>Maybe not related, when I checked the 760 wiring after noticing the noise,
>I realized I had forgotten to hook up the ground wires. Except for the
>noise it had worked just fine. Hooking the ground wires up didn't change
>anything. Must be that the chassis is grounded where it fastens to the
>panel, or is that a problem too? Thanks for your help.
Whoops! If it worked AT ALL with the power ground wire
disconnected, then it's probable that the radio was
finding an operating ground from some path that it
shouldn't have . . . are your microphone and headset
jacks insulated from ground?
>P.S. I downloaded AEC7_1.zip in about ten minutes on a cable modem. No
>problems.
See paragraph 2.4 in http://216.55.140.222/Catalog/avionics/760imB.pdf
Check for proper mic/headset jack wiring before
trying the battery test or adding a filter.
Bob . . .
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Microair Transponder harness and |
encoder package???
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 01:33 PM 3/7/2003 -0500, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: ccadkins <ccadkins@dragg.net>
>
>Bob,
>I know that you guys pulled the Microair xpndr from your site for the time
>being due to delivery pipeline problems, but are you still offering the
>previously mentioned harness and encoder "package" for the T2000 SFL ?
>
>I've managed to finally take delivery of one, and would like to take
>advantage of the "up front work" you guys have done on the harness.
>
>Let me know.
I'm not going to add the radios back onto the website
until we have a bunch of harness kits finished. I'm
hiring some help for this but it's going to be awhile.
Bob . . .
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Battery bus location |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
>Bob,
>I'm wiring my airplane as discussed in all electric on a budget. This is a
>Harmon Rocket where the battery is in the back (baggage compartment). On
>your diagram you have a battery bus for hot equipment connected to the
>battery contactor by a 14 AWG wire noted not to exceed 6 inches. This
>would mean that I will need multiple wires going from the bus (presumably
>located close to the battery) all the way to the front of the airplane to
>supply my clock, essential bus, electronic ignition (single mag
>airplane)etc. Is there an alternative such that I can have a single wire
>going to the front to a battery bus adjacent to the main and essential buses?
Some people have located their battery bus remote
from the battery but it's not recommended.
If you do remote mount it, then include an in-line
fuse at the battery for the bus feed. Problem
is that you now have an always hot wire of considerable
length protected at greater than 5A. The FAA wouldn't
allow it for crash safety reasons. If it were my
airplane, the battery bus goes right next to the battery.
Bob . . .
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Battery bus location |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Mark Phillips <ripsteel@edge.net>
> Problem is that you now have an always hot wire of considerable
> length protected at greater than 5A. The FAA wouldn't
> allow it for crash safety reasons. If it were my
> airplane, the battery bus goes right next to the battery.
Is this because a shorted wire would cause a considerable arc when protected above
5A?
(potential fire hazard?) My e-bus alt feed switch is located near my master,
(left side of
panel) resulting in a 5' long wire protected at 15A by an in-line fuse at the battery.
(batt
is FWF, right side, e-bus fuseblock is under right side of panel- forgetting to
kill the
e-bus makes this "hot" wire 3' longer). IIRC, you have mentioned in the past to
locate this
switch near the batt, I assume for this reason? Any other way to reduce this risk?
I'd
really rather not re-locate the switch...
Thanks as always
Mark
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Audio Isolation Amp |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "nhulin" <nhulin@hotmail.com>
Mark,
For common stuff Mouser are too expensive. You can get everything you want
for this project from AllElectronics at www.allelectronics.com for around $8
including the board to build it on and the connectors.
Here is the parts list you need from AllElectronics.
SKU,Description,Qty,Price,Subtotal
LM386N-1,0.25 WATT AUDIO AMP,2,$0.40,$0.80
7808T,8V POS REG 1 AMP,1,$0.50,$0.50
1/50VR,1MFD/50V RADIAL,7,$0.15,$1.05
10/16VR,10MFD/16V RADIAL ELECTROLYTIC CAPACITOR,4,$0.10,$0.40
RMC-103,.01MFD 100V POLY,2,$0.12,$0.24
470-1/4,470 OHM 1/4 WATT,10,$0.05,$0.50
27-1/4,27 OHM 1/4 WATT,10,$0.05,$0.50
DB-15P,SUB MINI D CONN./15 PIN MALE,1,$0.59,$0.59
DB-15S,SUB MINI D CONNECTOR, 15 PIN FEMALE,1,$0.69,$0.69
PC-4,SOLDERABLE PERF BOARD,1,$2.00,$2.00
DB-15H,DB-15 HOOD,1,$0.39,$0.39
-------------------------------------
Your Total is $7.66
To get a formatted list just cut/paste into Excel and parse the lines as
comma delimited data.
You have to buy resistors with a minimum qty of 10 but since they are 5c
each I don't think that is going to break the bank.
Here are the individual component URLs to make it easier:
http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/category.cgi?item=LM386N-1
http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/category.cgi?item=7808T
http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/category.cgi?item=1/50VR
http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/category.cgi?item=10/16VR
http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/category.cgi?item=RMC-103
http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/category.cgi?item=470-1/4
http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/category.cgi?item=27-1/4
http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/category.cgi?item=DB-15P
http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/category.cgi?item=DB-15S
http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/category.cgi?item=PC-4
http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/category.cgi?item=DB-15H
I have no connection with this company but my first career was electronics
and telecommunications and I still buy and build a lot of stuff. Come to
think of it, for about 8 bucks I might build one of these myself after I
finish my $10 wigwag circuit that is currently on the protoboard.
Hope that this has been of some help. Just check over the parts list to make
sure I didn't miss anything.
...neil
Zodiac 601XL
> From: Mark Phillips <ripsteel@edge.net>
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: Audio Isolation Amp
>
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Mark Phillips <ripsteel@edge.net>
>
> 'Lectronics arnt us!
>
> I've spent the better part of two days rummaging around in the Mouser
> catalog trying to dig up the parts for this little beast,
>
> http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/audio/760v4.pdf
>
> and I have learned how totally ignerant I am and little else! I "think"
> I have found the LM386 (Mouser #513-NJM386BD) and the LM7808 (Mouser
> #513-NJM7808FA), but how does one decide which capacitors and resistors
> to opt for? Kind of looks like I'd have to call them to place the
> resistor order anyway as I didn't see anywhere on the website to specify
> resistance value. And what kind of caps? Bob specs 1uF/15V for most,
> but I don't see anything "rated" that low- is this a minimum rating for
> dielectric strength and 400V would be OK as long as the capacitance is
> correct? There are almost 50 pages of just non-electrolytics! And most
> moronic of all, is 1uF = 1000pF? (aaarghh!)
>
> I'd like to use the clad board technique Bob demonstrates at
> http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/cladboard/cladboard.html
>
> In the back of the Mouser catalog (p844) is "Vectorboard General
> Purpose" prototyping board described as "CEM 1 Epoxy glass comp", .062
> thk, 4-1/2"x17" Is this the right stuff? (for $20!!!!!- probably only
> need about 5 bucks worth!)
>
> I'm sure most of you tech-types just got all this stuff laying around
> your workbench and could slop one together in yer sleep that works
> perfectly, but I could sure use some advice- I really don't want to take
> out time to go back & grind through all the fundamentals, but if any of
> y'all have a specific parts list put together for this thing, DigiKey,
> Mouser or whatever, I could sure use it! Better yet, throw the parts in
> a baggie, mail it to me and I'll send you some bucks! Maybe one day Bob
> will add a comic strip on this critter to his other great stuff, but I'm
> not sure if enough builders like me (cheap!) actually go about making
> one of these things to justify his time- I feel guilty just THINKING
> about asking him...
>
> Need to be in the shop & not in the catalogs at The PossumWorks
> Mark do not archive
Message 16
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| Subject: | FAST-ON RELIABILITY |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Julia <wings97302@yahoo.com>
In wiring the Booster Fuel Pump switch - is it ok to use a switch with fast-on
tabs - i'm not yet sure what to think of these - they are easy to install - but
i'm worried about an airplane full of loose fast-on connections? has anyone
ever had a problem with loose fast-on tabs or is it not something I need to worry
about as long as I install them correctly.
would it be better with the fuel booster pump to use a switch with screw terminals?
thanks
---------------------------------
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: FAST-ON RELIABILITY |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: RSwanson <rswan19@comcast.net>
Just give it a try. Install one then "try" to remove it. I too, was
skeptical until I found out how difficult they are to remove.
R
----- Original Message -----
From: "Julia" <wings97302@yahoo.com>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: FAST-ON RELIABILITY
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Julia <wings97302@yahoo.com>
>
>
> In wiring the Booster Fuel Pump switch - is it ok to use a switch with
fast-on tabs - i'm not yet sure what to think of these - they are easy to
install - but i'm worried about an airplane full of loose fast-on
connections? has anyone ever had a problem with loose fast-on tabs or is
it not something I need to worry about as long as I install them correctly.
>
> would it be better with the fuel booster pump to use a switch with screw
terminals?
>
> thanks
>
>
> ---------------------------------
>
>
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Firewall Wire Penetration |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Julia <wings97302@yahoo.com>
I just dug out a SS bath tub towel holder which I did not yet install in the home
I've been building and it's perfect for a firewall penetration gadget. Someone
else mentioned this earlier and now that i've got one in my hands it looks
perfect.
it's stainless - it's got the 90 degree bend and the flange is welded on - just
cut the tube to length and you get two of these - one off each end.
The one I have I got at home depot - made by Franklin Brass (a Masco Company) -
item #6424 - it's 1 1/4 inch diameter tubing - 24 inch grab bar (usp code #79171
64245 6) - so I think just one would handle ALL my wires.
now that i've got this in my hands and am looking at my RV - it sure looks like
the easy way to do this.
my 2 cents for the day.
HCRV6@aol.com wrote:--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: HCRV6@aol.com
In a message dated 3/7/03 10:35:32 AM Pacific Standard Time,
wings97302@yahoo.com writes:
<< I have a aircraft stainless steel welder interested in adding to his
product line a firewall penetration product RV builders might purchase. His
question is what might the best thing look like?
I"m picturing an Stainless flange to which is welded a tube with a 90
degree bend in it. What size tubing would work best. Would it be better to
have a small one on each side, or all wires run through one larger tube? >>
Sounds very interesting. My preference would be to have three sizes of tube
I.D.s, 1/4", 1/2" and 3/4". I'd definitely go for these if they become
available soon, like within the next 30 days or so (at a reasonable price
that is).
Do not archive
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, firewall forward
---------------------------------
Message 19
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|
| Subject: | Re: Firewall Wire Penetration |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Julia <wings97302@yahoo.com>
I just dug out a SS bath tub towel holder which I did not yet install in the home
I've been building and it's perfect for a firewall penetration gadget. Someone
else mentioned this earlier and now that i've got one in my hands it looks
perfect.
it's stainless - it's got the 90 degree bend and the flange is welded on - just
cut the tube to length and you get two of these - one off each end.
The one I have I got at home depot - made by Franklin Brass (a Masco Company) -
item #6424 - it's 1 1/4 inch diameter tubing - 24 inch grab bar (usp code #79171
64245 6) - so I think just one would handle ALL my wires.
now that i've got this in my hands and am looking at my RV - it sure looks like
the easy way to do this.
my 2 cents for the day.
HCRV6@aol.com wrote: --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: HCRV6@aol.com
In a message dated 3/7/03 10:35:32 AM Pacific Standard Time,
wings97302@yahoo.com writes:
<< I have a aircraft stainless steel welder interested in adding to his
product line a firewall penetration product RV builders might purchase. His
question is what might the best thing look like?
I"m picturing an Stainless flange to which is welded a tube with a 90
degree bend in it. What size tubing would work best. Would it be better to
have a small one on each side, or all wires run through one larger tube? >>
Sounds very interesting. My preference would be to have three sizes of tube
I.D.s, 1/4", 1/2" and 3/4". I'd definitely go for these if they become
available soon, like within the next 30 days or so (at a reasonable price
that is).
Do not archive
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, firewall forward
---------------------------------
Message 20
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|
| Subject: | Firewall Penetration |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Julia <wings97302@yahoo.com>
I just dug out a SS bath tub towel holder which I did not yet install in the home
I've been building and it's perfect for a firewall penetration gadget. Someone
else mentioned this earlier and now that i've got one in my hands it looks
perfect.
it's stainless - it's got the 90 degree bend and the flange is welded on - just
cut the tube to length and you get two of these - one off each end.
The one I have I got at home depot - made by Franklin Brass (a Masco Company) -
item #6424 - it's 1 1/4 inch diameter tubing - 24 inch grab bar (usp code #79171
64245 6) - so I think just one would handle ALL my wires.
now that i've got this in my hands and am looking at my RV - it sure looks like
the easy way to do this.
my 2 cents for the day.
---------------------------------
Message 21
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|
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
http://store.yahoo.com/azmotorsports/battenjr12vb.html
Seems like a good product. I just ordered one for my Odyssey PC680
battery...we'll see how it works.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D (canopy)
http://www.rvproject.com
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: FAST-ON RELIABILITY |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Neville Kilford" <nkilford@etravel.org>
I'd go along with that. They're definitely not easy to get off. Put them on
with caution!
Nev
----- Original Message -----
From: "RSwanson" <rswan19@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: FAST-ON RELIABILITY
> Just give it a try. Install one then "try" to remove it. I too, was
> skeptical until I found out how difficult they are to remove.
> R
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Julia" <wings97302@yahoo.com>
> To: <aeroelectric-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: FAST-ON RELIABILITY
>
> > In wiring the Booster Fuel Pump switch - is it ok to use a switch with
> fast-on tabs - i'm not yet sure what to think of these - they are easy to
> install - but i'm worried about an airplane full of loose fast-on
> connections? has anyone ever had a problem with loose fast-on tabs or is
> it not something I need to worry about as long as I install them correctly.
> >
> > would it be better with the fuel booster pump to use a switch with screw
> terminals?
> >
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Noise in 760 installation |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Duncan McBride <duncanmcbride@comcast.net>
The microphone and headset jacks are mounted in a plastic Radio Shack box
that is bolted to the panel - that shouldn't be a problem but I'll double
check. Sounds like I have something wired wrong, if the 760 is not grounded
where it mounts to the panel,
I wired the stick mounted switch leads to the center poles of a double pole
single throw switch on the panel. On one side I wired the PTT lead of the
MicroAir and the Mic Lo. On the other side I wired the Intercom lead and
panel ground. Depending on the panel switch position, the stick switch will
activate either the PTT or the intercom. Seemed like an ok idea - I'll
double check that wiring too. The problem might be where the microphone
jack leads are connected to all of this. I'll let you know what I find.
Thanks again,
Duncan McBride
319DM
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: Noise in 760 installation
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
<bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
>
> At 09:19 PM 3/6/2003 -0500, you wrote:
> >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Duncan McBride
> ><duncanmcbride@comcast.net>
> >
> >
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
> >To: <Recipient list suppressed>
> >Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: 10378 Fluent
> >
> > > If you experience any kind of noise problems (don't
> > > know what, if any, noise filtering may be part of
> > > Icom's adapter), you may need to do something
> > > like:
> > >
> > > http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/filter/filter.html
> > >
> > > to clean up ship's power to the Icom's liking.
> > >
> > > Bob . . .
> > >
> >
> >I have the MicroAir 760 in my Rotax 912 powered Kolb Twinstar. It's
wired
> >as in your diagram, with the shields from the headphone and mic going to
the
> >mic lo pin on the MicroAir. The only wires going to the panel ground are
> >from the two ground pins and the intercom ground, through a switch. I'm
> >getting a very loud alternator or ignition whine when I use the PTT or
> >intercom switch. The noise frequency and volume is directly proportional
to
> >rpm. Same noise with transmit or intercom, so would it be the antenna?
I
> >have a computer grade electrolytic capacitor in the charging circuit 14V,
> >22k mf (wiring is appendix Z-7 all the way) Would trying the RadioShack
> >filter above be the next thing to try?
>
> Try running the radio from a 12 battery independent of
> the ship's electrical system. A couple of 6v lantern
> batteries from WalMart will work fine. If the radio
> is quiet with independent battery, then a filter
> like the one cited will probably fix it.
>
>
> >Maybe not related, when I checked the 760 wiring after noticing the
noise,
> >I realized I had forgotten to hook up the ground wires. Except for the
> >noise it had worked just fine. Hooking the ground wires up didn't change
> >anything. Must be that the chassis is grounded where it fastens to the
> >panel, or is that a problem too? Thanks for your help.
>
>
> Whoops! If it worked AT ALL with the power ground wire
> disconnected, then it's probable that the radio was
> finding an operating ground from some path that it
> shouldn't have . . . are your microphone and headset
> jacks insulated from ground?
>
> >P.S. I downloaded AEC7_1.zip in about ten minutes on a cable modem. No
> >problems.
>
> See paragraph 2.4 in http://216.55.140.222/Catalog/avionics/760imB.pdf
>
> Check for proper mic/headset jack wiring before
> trying the battery test or adding a filter.
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
Message 24
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "MARK H DELANO" <delano60@email.msn.com>
Last week I asked a Question about a Turn & Bank that sounded like a vacuum cleaner
when the com was turned on. The offending imported non TSOd instrument is
a Falcon Gage P/N TC02E-3-1. You Provided a link to the Radio Shack 270-030
filter which I installed as the wire diagram instructed with little reduction
in the RF output. The filter assembly came with a 220 uF cap and your drawing
calls for a 10uF. will this matter? Any other suggestion to kill the RF interference
before I return the gage to Spruce.
Thanks
Mark Delano
RV6A ready go to the A/P
Message 25
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|
| Subject: | Clock consumption |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Glles.Thesee" <Gilles.Thesee@ac-grenoble.fr>
Bob and all,
Is it wise to run a panel electric clok from the auxilliary battery bus ?
According to A&S catalog, the current draw is in the order of 2.3 mA. Won't
the clock run the battery down wihin a month or two if the airplane is left
sitting in the hangar ?
Thanks,
Gilles
Message 26
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|
| Subject: | Re: FAST-ON RELIABILITY |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorto1537@rogers.com>
At 11:55 AM -0800 9/3/03, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Julia <wings97302@yahoo.com>
>
>
>In wiring the Booster Fuel Pump switch - is it ok to use a switch
>with fast-on tabs - i'm not yet sure what to think of these - they
>are easy to install - but i'm worried about an airplane full of
>loose fast-on connections? has anyone ever had a problem with loose
>fast-on tabs or is it not something I need to worry about as long as
>I install them correctly.
>
>would it be better with the fuel booster pump to use a switch with
>screw terminals?
>
>thanks
>
I'd be more worried about a screw coming loose than a fast tab
falling off. Good quality fast-on tabs are reputed to be very
reliable. Cheap ones may be less reliable. Even the good ones are
pretty cheap ($9.50 for a package of 50 AMP Fast-Ons from B&C:), so I
don't see any good reason to experiment with cheap ones:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Catalog/wiring/wiring.html#faston
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/
Message 27
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|
| Subject: | Re: Noise in 760 installation |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: RSwanson <rswan19@comcast.net>
I also have a 760, but I chose to use a Flightcom 430MC intercom to avoid
the problem of two switches, since I didn't like the hot mike on the 760.
No problem with noise, even with the engine running. The radio does have a
ground wire in the harness and does not use the case as a ground, at least
on purpose.
Is a little confusing to wire, though.
R
----- Original Message -----
From: "Duncan McBride" <duncanmcbride@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: Noise in 760 installation
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Duncan McBride
<duncanmcbride@comcast.net>
>
> The microphone and headset jacks are mounted in a plastic Radio Shack box
> that is bolted to the panel - that shouldn't be a problem but I'll
double
> check. Sounds like I have something wired wrong, if the 760 is not
grounded
> where it mounts to the panel,
>
> I wired the stick mounted switch leads to the center poles of a double
pole
> single throw switch on the panel. On one side I wired the PTT lead of
the
> MicroAir and the Mic Lo. On the other side I wired the Intercom lead and
> panel ground. Depending on the panel switch position, the stick switch
will
> activate either the PTT or the intercom. Seemed like an ok idea - I'll
> double check that wiring too. The problem might be where the microphone
> jack leads are connected to all of this. I'll let you know what I find.
>
> Thanks again,
> Duncan McBride
> 319DM
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
> To: <aeroelectric-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: Noise in 760 installation
>
>
> > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
> <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
> >
> > At 09:19 PM 3/6/2003 -0500, you wrote:
> > >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Duncan McBride
> > ><duncanmcbride@comcast.net>
> > >
> > >
> > >----- Original Message -----
> > >From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
> > >To: <Recipient list suppressed>
> > >Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: 10378 Fluent
> > >
> > > > If you experience any kind of noise problems (don't
> > > > know what, if any, noise filtering may be part of
> > > > Icom's adapter), you may need to do something
> > > > like:
> > > >
> > > > http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/filter/filter.html
> > > >
> > > > to clean up ship's power to the Icom's liking.
> > > >
> > > > Bob . . .
> > > >
> > >
> > >I have the MicroAir 760 in my Rotax 912 powered Kolb Twinstar. It's
> wired
> > >as in your diagram, with the shields from the headphone and mic going
to
> the
> > >mic lo pin on the MicroAir. The only wires going to the panel ground
are
> > >from the two ground pins and the intercom ground, through a switch.
I'm
> > >getting a very loud alternator or ignition whine when I use the PTT or
> > >intercom switch. The noise frequency and volume is directly
proportional
> to
> > >rpm. Same noise with transmit or intercom, so would it be the
antenna?
> I
> > >have a computer grade electrolytic capacitor in the charging circuit
14V,
> > >22k mf (wiring is appendix Z-7 all the way) Would trying the
RadioShack
> > >filter above be the next thing to try?
> >
> > Try running the radio from a 12 battery independent of
> > the ship's electrical system. A couple of 6v lantern
> > batteries from WalMart will work fine. If the radio
> > is quiet with independent battery, then a filter
> > like the one cited will probably fix it.
> >
> >
> > >Maybe not related, when I checked the 760 wiring after noticing the
> noise,
> > >I realized I had forgotten to hook up the ground wires. Except for
the
> > >noise it had worked just fine. Hooking the ground wires up didn't
change
> > >anything. Must be that the chassis is grounded where it fastens to
the
> > >panel, or is that a problem too? Thanks for your help.
> >
> >
> > Whoops! If it worked AT ALL with the power ground wire
> > disconnected, then it's probable that the radio was
> > finding an operating ground from some path that it
> > shouldn't have . . . are your microphone and headset
> > jacks insulated from ground?
> >
> > >P.S. I downloaded AEC7_1.zip in about ten minutes on a cable modem.
No
> > >problems.
> >
> > See paragraph 2.4 in
http://216.55.140.222/Catalog/avionics/760imB.pdf
> >
> > Check for proper mic/headset jack wiring before
> > trying the battery test or adding a filter.
> >
> > Bob . . .
> >
> >
>
>
Message 28
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|
| Subject: | strobe wire extension |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Robert Dickson <robert@thenews-journal.com>
I've installed aeroflash nav/pos/strobe units on the wingtips of my RV-6A.
I've installed the strobe power supplies on the forward wing spar just
inboard of the wingtips. The three leads from the strobes came with
open-barrel type pins already crimped on and ready to insert into the
plastic holder.
My problem is that the wires aren't long enough to reach the power supplies,
specifically the wires that run along the leading edge of the Archer VOR
antenna (I haven't tried the other wing yet, but I don't think they're long
enough either).
So, is it ok to just splice in a short length of wire using two butt
splices? If I had the appropriate crimper I could get by with just one butt
splice and crimp on new pins, but I hate to have to buy yet another crimper
for just six wires. Would using two butt splices in a wire run (short) be
bad?
TIA
Robert Dickson
RV-6A electrical
Message 29
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|
| Subject: | Re: Battery Charger |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: CBFLESHREN@aol.com
Dan, it might be late news but these chargers will do all that PLUS
"Desulphate" if ya care. This will result in very long unattended battery
maintenance & actually repair some sulphation damage. Chris Fleshren
(CH701 someday)
See : <A HREF="http://www.vdcelectronics.com/">http://www.vdcelectronics.com/
Do Not Archive
Message 30
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| Subject: | Re: FAST-ON RELIABILITY |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 11:55 AM 3/9/2003 -0800, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Julia <wings97302@yahoo.com>
>
>
>In wiring the Booster Fuel Pump switch - is it ok to use a switch with
>fast-on tabs - i'm not yet sure what to think of these - they are easy to
>install - but i'm worried about an airplane full of loose fast-on
>connections? has anyone ever had a problem with loose fast-on tabs or is
>it not something I need to worry about as long as I install them correctly.
>
>would it be better with the fuel booster pump to use a switch with screw
>terminals?
>
>thanks
Fast-ons have been used on the Cessna single engine airplanes
since the mid 60's with great success. The significance of
their capability didn't register with me until the mid 80's
when a Bussmann rep dropped a fuseblock on the counter at
B&C's booth at OSH . . . My first impression was negative
but after researching it a bit and recalling that they
had been used on certified singles for two decades, I wrote
the following:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/faston3.pdf
If you get terminals made from the right copper
alloy (and all PIDG terminals ARE) then you can
expect excellent service from these devices.
Bob . . .
Message 31
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| Subject: | Re: strobe wire extension |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
Robert Dickson wrote:
>
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Robert Dickson <robert@thenews-journal.com>
>
> I've installed aeroflash nav/pos/strobe units on the wingtips of my RV-6A.
> I've installed the strobe power supplies on the forward wing spar just
> inboard of the wingtips. The three leads from the strobes came with
> open-barrel type pins already crimped on and ready to insert into the
> plastic holder.
>
> My problem is that the wires aren't long enough to reach the power supplies,
> specifically the wires that run along the leading edge of the Archer VOR
> antenna (I haven't tried the other wing yet, but I don't think they're long
> enough either).
>
> So, is it ok to just splice in a short length of wire using two butt
> splices? If I had the appropriate crimper I could get by with just one butt
> splice and crimp on new pins, but I hate to have to buy yet another crimper
> for just six wires. Would using two butt splices in a wire run (short) be
> bad?
>
> TIA
>
> Robert Dickson
> RV-6A electrical
You described the exact situation I had in the wing tips of my RV-6 when
I retrofitted a Sportcraft internal VOR antenna. I used crimped butt
splices in order to get the strobe and nav light leads to follow the
leading edge of the antenna...........and everything works perfectly.
Sam Buchanan
http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal/sportcraft.htm
Message 32
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| Subject: | Re: strobe wire extension |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Robert Dickson <robert@thenews-journal.com>
ah, real world info from the man with the web site Bob Archer points you to
as the way to install his antenna. The way those butt splices crimp on I'd
have been surprised if they didn't work well. Thanks for the reply, Sam.
And, of course, damn good web site.
Robert Dickson
RV-6A electrical, one more small step forward
do not archive
> From: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
> Reply-To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
> Date: Sun, 09 Mar 2003 20:28:50 -0600
> To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: strobe wire extension
>
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
>
>
> You described the exact situation I had in the wing tips of my RV-6 when
> I retrofitted a Sportcraft internal VOR antenna. I used crimped butt
> splices in order to get the strobe and nav light leads to follow the
> leading edge of the antenna...........and everything works perfectly.
>
> Sam Buchanan
> http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal/sportcraft.htm
Message 33
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| Subject: | Transponder antenna position |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "John Slade" <sladerj@bellsouth.net>
I'm about to install my transponder antenna in my (plastic) Cozy IV. Ideal
location choices are a bit limited since the prewired tray comes with a very
short wire. I'd rather not poke the antenna through the floor. I presume
this isnt necessary with a fiberglass airplane.
My main question is this - how important is it that the antenna has an
unblocked "view" below the airplane? For example, one handy spot would put
the nose wheel aft of the antenna when the gear is retracted. Another has a
couple of pipes fairly close by. I'm guessing that installing it close to a
wire bundle or ground bus would be a bad idea.
Comments please.
John Slade
Message 34
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| Subject: | Re: Battery bus location |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 01:43 PM 3/9/2003 -0600, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Mark Phillips <ripsteel@edge.net>
>
> > Problem is that you now have an always hot wire of considerable
> > length protected at greater than 5A. The FAA wouldn't
> > allow it for crash safety reasons. If it were my
> > airplane, the battery bus goes right next to the battery.
>
>Is this because a shorted wire would cause a considerable arc when
>protected above 5A?
>(potential fire hazard?) My e-bus alt feed switch is located near my
>master, (left side of
>panel) resulting in a 5' long wire protected at 15A by an in-line fuse at
>the battery. (batt
>is FWF, right side, e-bus fuseblock is under right side of panel-
>forgetting to kill the
>e-bus makes this "hot" wire 3' longer). IIRC, you have mentioned in the
>past to locate this
>switch near the batt, I assume for this reason? Any other way to reduce
>this risk? I'd
>really rather not re-locate the switch...
The original concept for an e-bus was to get these loads
down into the 2-3 amp range so that you could get airport
in sight, battery only and then turn the main bus back on.
A 5A feeder to the e-bus was adequate for most systems.
With the advent of All-Electric-on-a-Budget, adding
gyros to the e-bus has pushed the alternate feedpath
to less comfortable levels for crash safety. I've got
a client who wants to incorporate the e-bus into a
certifiable design and his DER is most comfortable
with a remote relay as shown in:
http://216.55.140.222/Page_Per_System/Power_Distribution/Heavy_E-Bus.pdf
This operates as a sort of mini-battery relay for e-bus
loads only. The relay draws only 100mA (about 1/7th
that of a contactor) and still gives the pilot a
way to shut off all long hot leads preceding a
potentially airplane-bending arrival.
This diagram will become Figure Z-32 in the next
revision to the 'Connection.
Message 35
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| Subject: | Re: Clock consumption |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 11:00 PM 3/9/2003 +0100, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Glles.Thesee"
><Gilles.Thesee@ac-grenoble.fr>
>
>Bob and all,
>
>Is it wise to run a panel electric clok from the auxilliary battery bus ?
>According to A&S catalog, the current draw is in the order of 2.3 mA. Won't
>the clock run the battery down wihin a month or two if the airplane is left
>sitting in the hangar ?
Yup . . . 2.3 mA 24/7 works out to 20 a.h. per year but only
1.6 a.h. month. Surely you're going to fly more often than
once a month! Dee's Saturn didn't get driven for about 8 weeks
and I found it had a dead battery . . . a nearly new battery
at that. I suspect it's got some keep-alive requirements
too. Soon as the weather warms up a bit more, I'm going to
go measure it.
If you're going to store an airplane for that long, you might
want to run the clock from the e-bus and just re-set it
every time you go fly.
Hmmm . . . that seems like a lot of power for a clock,
my wristwatch runs for over a year on a 25 maH battery.
Bob . . .
Message 36
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--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 03:10 PM 3/9/2003 -0800, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "MARK H DELANO"
><delano60@email.msn.com>
>
>Last week I asked a Question about a Turn & Bank that sounded like a
>vacuum cleaner when the com was turned on. The offending imported non
>TSOd instrument is a Falcon Gage P/N TC02E-3-1. You Provided a link to the
>Radio Shack 270-030 filter which I installed as the wire diagram
>instructed with little reduction in the RF output. The filter assembly
>came with a 220 uF cap and your drawing calls for a 10uF. will this
>matter? Any other suggestion to kill the RF interference before I return
>the gage to Spruce.
Try the heavier cap. . . also try wrapping
a sleeve of thin sheet steel (flashing metal
from lumber yard works good) around the
body of the instrument. The metal is pretty
thin so I usually use three layers. This can
be held in place with long tye wraps or with
a couple of string ties. This will attenuate
strong magnetic radiation common to many of these
instruments. You may also see some benefit for
making an electrical connection between the
metal shield and the ground power wire coming
into the back of the instrument.
Will be interested to see what, if any effects
these actions have.
Bob . . .
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