Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:50 AM - alternator failure modes (Gary Casey)
2. 05:51 AM - Re: E-Buss - switched vs. non-switched items (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
3. 05:58 AM - Re: Infinity Stick Grip - Computer games joystick?! (Eric M. Jones)
4. 07:41 AM - Re: alternator failure modes (Paul Messinger)
5. 08:38 AM - Re: GPS antenna location (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
6. 08:42 AM - Re: E-Bus Switch (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
7. 09:22 AM - Re: alternator failure modes (Phil Birkelbach)
8. 10:16 AM - alternator + fire? (Scott Bilinski)
9. 10:24 AM - Re: alternator failure modes (Ed Holyoke)
10. 11:37 AM - Re: Re: Call the ball ?? (David Glauser)
11. 12:15 PM - Re: alternator failure modes (Denis Walsh)
12. 12:52 PM - Motor Glider System Questions (Robert L. Nuckolls, III)
13. 01:08 PM - Stick Grips (Gary Graham)
14. 01:30 PM - Delco Starter (Mark Phillips)
15. 02:20 PM - Infinity Grip Selection 2 Rights - or 1 Right and 1 Left???? (Julia)
16. 03:15 PM - Re: Infinity Grip Selection 2 Rights - or 1 (Kevin Horton)
17. 03:20 PM - Re: Infinity Grip Selection 2 Rights - or 1 Right and 1 Left???? (Matt Prather)
18. 05:12 PM - Fw: Push to Talk Switch Wiring (Tom & Cathy Ervin)
19. 06:59 PM - Re: Fw: Push to Talk Switch Wiring (Charlie & Tupper England)
20. 07:31 PM - Re: Fw: Push to Talk Switch Wiring (Benford2@aol.com)
21. 10:22 PM - It mustn't continue.............. (j1j2h3@juno.com)
22. 11:15 PM - Re: Infinity Grip Selection 2 Rights - or 1 Right and 1 Left???? (Gerry Holland)
Message 1
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | alternator failure modes |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Gary Casey" <glcasey@adelphia.net>
<<For an External regulated alternator, there is no connection from the "B"
to
the field and cutting the power to the field (regulator) is simple and does
the job in all cases.
Considering how simple it is to use an alternator that is easy to convert or
needs no conversion (to an external regulator) I feel there is no reason not
to do it. As such alternators are available in similar weight,size, and amp
ratings there need not be a weight penalty.
Paul>>
Very interesting discussion from Paul. Just add a couple of points: First,
there are some effects which limit the voltage capability of the alternator.
The iron in both the field and the stator will saturate at currents not much
above the rated currents. Therefore, even thought field current rises with
alternator output the flux does not. There also is the effect of the
internal capacitance of the stator windings that limit the output, but this
might be a small effect. Regardless, as Paul stated, if the output load is
removed the stator voltage will rise until limited by something. If the
rectifier diodes don't fail the voltage will stabilize at the value limited
by the internal resistance/saturation/inductance/capacitance of the
alternator. In that case the field winding will likely fail. This is
called a "load dump" in the automotive world, but we usually assume it is
short lived, generally 10's of milliseconds (just as an aside, for marine
usage we would assume that the operator would forget to tighten the battery
terminal and the battery connection would repetitively open, causing
frequent and repetitive load dumps that would have to be tolerated by the
alternator and all electrical components).
I think what Paul is suggesting is that it is reasonably probable that at
least one diode of one stator phase will short, loading the other phases and
pulling down the output voltage enough that the field winding will no longer
fuse. I would suggest that it would be very unlikely that 2 phases will
short as the current output from the remaining phase would be insufficient
to cause a problem. With 2 phases running the output would be 2/3 the
rated output, or 40 amps for a 60 amp alternator. Would that be enough to
cause a fire? Remember, a simple overheat condition is not a concern, only
a safety-of-flight fire. When I first heard of the "meltdown" under
discussion I visualized fire and melted aluminum, but apparently it was an
internal-to-the-alternator overheat condition, not a safety-related fire.
Paul almost had me convinced with his perceptive argument, but now I'm
wavering. My plan was to use a dual battery/dual alternator system with
equally sized internally-regulated alternators of modest capacity, maybe 35
or 40 amps each. The reason was wiring simplicity and reduced weight. I'm
assuming that the lower current capability of the alternators means more
benign failure modes - a weak assumption, I'll readily admit.
Gary Casey
Message 2
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: E-Buss - switched vs. non-switched items |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 10:16 AM 3/23/2003 -0800, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Julia <wings97302@yahoo.com>
>
>
>I read somewhere that all items run off the E-Buss should have a switch on
>them - I notice the diagrams call for a turn coordinator to run off the
>e-buss - there is no switcfh on that. also I have an electric attitude
>indicator -so I assume that would run off the e-buss as well? are both of
>these items ok if they don't have an on/off switch on them?
>
>if these are ok -how about other low powered items - like instrument lights?
Items on the endurance bus should include the things you need
to get to airport-of-intended-destination-in-sight with the
alternator off line. If only these items are on the e-bus,
then there's no need for an independent ON/OFF switch. If you
have stowaway loads that are not always useful in an alternator
out condition, then having some way to shut them off
is decidedly useful.
Bob . . .
Message 3
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | RE: Infinity Stick Grip - Computer games joystick?! |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Eric M. Jones" <emjones@charter.net>
I am looking at computer joysticks too.
Best Buy has these beauties---http://www.saitekusa.com/usa/prod/cyborgold.htm
These things must be light and very hard to break...good things for OBAM aircraft.
and you can buy a couple for spares just in case.
I'd put some quality switches inside and add reinforcement where required, but
they are close to perfect now.
I'd also mount the thing on an Amphenol connector to detach easily. Not only does
this make it easy to work on, but, properly arranged, would make a great anti-theft
device.
Regards,
Eric M. Jones
Message 4
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: alternator failure modes |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Paul Messinger" <paulm@tenforward.com>
Good comments. Generally agree with them all.
My intent was to keep the real world electronic calcs out of the discussion
to make it more informative to the general list readers. I was attempting to
point out an alternator failure not addressed by the "B" lead contactor.
The peak voltage produced by one alternator (unfailed) that I tested was
still working fine at over 200V when I stopped the test. I have been told
some alternators have diodes with only 200V typical rating. In any event
given the various alternator designs its possible to get very hot and what
happens then is unique to the specific installation and surrounding
components. The other engineers were not sure how many diodes could fail
(they were all failed in the one unit but that could have been a result of
the extreme heat). We stopped wondering as it was clear that there were too
many variables to worry about when the point was to see if the assumption of
a unloaded failed regulator was a condition of concern. Since we concluded
it was, the simple and clear solution was to be sure the field was
disconnected and an external regulator was a simple fix. The next task was
to find an lightweight inexpensive alternator from the auto market for
experimental aircraft. Having found one I quit looking.
After all why have any risk if there is a simple solution to eliminate it.
Perhaps the alternator "you" find with an internal regulator will fail
safely and perhaps not. How does anyone know (perhaps only with a test
program). With one real world example in hand (some 15 years ago) and expert
analysis that concluded the most likely reason for the final burn up was as
I have suggested, I decided why take even a very small risk given the simple
alternative.
Remember the alternator may be very hot to start with and all electronic
components running close to their max temperature. The active components
including the diodes and regulator electronics are typically rated at much
lower temperatures than the wiring/insulation. Another reason to use an
externally mounted regulator independent to any decision about my point. I
have seen far too many alternators mounted in experimental aircraft where
the internal or external alternator cooling fan was reverse to the airflow.
The needed analysis is complex specific alternator unique and unneeded if
one decided to simply avoid the design. In the case of an electrically
dependent aircraft engine I feel there is a need to avoid any known or
suspected risk if there is a reasonable solution. Also an external regulator
typically is lighter than the "B" lead contactor so there is an additional
weight saving.
In any event the a regulator failure that results in an over voltage
condition is rare and its likely the result self contained.
Paul
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gary Casey" <glcasey@adelphia.net>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: alternator failure modes
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Gary Casey"
<glcasey@adelphia.net>
>
> <<For an External regulated alternator, there is no connection from the
"B"
> to
> the field and cutting the power to the field (regulator) is simple and
does
> the job in all cases.
>
> Considering how simple it is to use an alternator that is easy to convert
or
> needs no conversion (to an external regulator) I feel there is no reason
not
> to do it. As such alternators are available in similar weight,size, and
amp
> ratings there need not be a weight penalty.
>
> Paul>>
>
> Very interesting discussion from Paul. Just add a couple of points:
First,
> there are some effects which limit the voltage capability of the
alternator.
> The iron in both the field and the stator will saturate at currents not
much
> above the rated currents. Therefore, even thought field current rises
with
> alternator output the flux does not. There also is the effect of the
> internal capacitance of the stator windings that limit the output, but
this
> might be a small effect. Regardless, as Paul stated, if the output load
is
> removed the stator voltage will rise until limited by something. If the
> rectifier diodes don't fail the voltage will stabilize at the value
limited
> by the internal resistance/saturation/inductance/capacitance of the
> alternator. In that case the field winding will likely fail. This is
> called a "load dump" in the automotive world, but we usually assume it is
> short lived, generally 10's of milliseconds (just as an aside, for marine
> usage we would assume that the operator would forget to tighten the
battery
> terminal and the battery connection would repetitively open, causing
> frequent and repetitive load dumps that would have to be tolerated by the
> alternator and all electrical components).
>
> I think what Paul is suggesting is that it is reasonably probable that at
> least one diode of one stator phase will short, loading the other phases
and
> pulling down the output voltage enough that the field winding will no
longer
> fuse. I would suggest that it would be very unlikely that 2 phases will
> short as the current output from the remaining phase would be insufficient
> to cause a problem. With 2 phases running the output would be 2/3 the
> rated output, or 40 amps for a 60 amp alternator. Would that be enough to
> cause a fire? Remember, a simple overheat condition is not a concern,
only
> a safety-of-flight fire. When I first heard of the "meltdown" under
> discussion I visualized fire and melted aluminum, but apparently it was an
> internal-to-the-alternator overheat condition, not a safety-related fire.
>
> Paul almost had me convinced with his perceptive argument, but now I'm
> wavering. My plan was to use a dual battery/dual alternator system with
> equally sized internally-regulated alternators of modest capacity, maybe
35
> or 40 amps each. The reason was wiring simplicity and reduced weight.
I'm
> assuming that the lower current capability of the alternators means more
> benign failure modes - a weak assumption, I'll readily admit.
>
> Gary Casey
>
>
Message 5
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: GPS antenna location |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 04:15 PM 3/23/2003 -0800, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Julia <wings97302@yahoo.com>
>
>
>is it ok to mount the GPS antenna in a wing tip? I was going to mount it
>under the engine cowl - but the wing tip is relatively empty when compared
>with under the engine cowl. Also if I had to find another reason,
>perhhaps it might be argued that if you flew upside down - the reception
>would be just as good with the wing tip location - whereas it you mounted
>it under the engine cowl and flew upside down, you'd have the engine
>blocking the GPS signal?
>What arguements are there for NOT mounting it in the wing tip?
Longer coax cable (weakens signal . . . may not be an issue
depending on your antenna (amplified or passive).
> Do strobe signals interfere with GPS at all?
no.
>I"m using a wing tip COMM antenna in one tip and thought I'd put the GPS
>in the other tip. My transponder antenna is underneath the seats and my
>ELT antenna is in the tail - I think that's all the antennas I need.
it ought to work.
Bob . . .
Message 6
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: E-Bus Switch |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 10:12 AM 3/23/2003 -0800, you wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Julia <wings97302@yahoo.com>
>
>
>with bob's wiring diagram for the main buss and e-buss & internal regular
>Z-xx previously labeled.
>
>there is a master switch with Off/Bat/Alt. - positions.
>
>there is then an E-Buss switch
>
>under normal proceedures you would get in the airplane, turn the master to
>Alternator - then start up. The E-Buss gets powered from a diode off the
>main buss - so would you normally leave the E-Buss switch off - untill you
>had a situation where you had an alternator failure - then you would flip
>the master switch to Bat. power and turn on the E-Buss. Is that correct?
My checklists call for turning the e-bus switch on first, get
atis, clearance delivery, and note that nothing on the main
bus becomes active. Turn e-bus switch off, conduct normal
startup. E-bus switch stays off during normal operations.
>
>
>Also, does the OVM module CAUSE the Alternator field to shut off - or does
>it just allow some of the voltage to go to ground in order to keep the
>voltage from spiking? Is it the case that you still need to turn the
>master to Bat or OFF - to get the alternator contactor to shut off?
ov module properly installed shuts down the alternator
system and and/or opens contactor with no attention needed
by the pilot.
Bob . . .
Message 7
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: alternator failure modes |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Phil Birkelbach" <phil@petrasoft.net>
Okay I need some clarification. I am finding it very difficult to find a
40A alternator that is externally regulated for a decent price that I know
will fit my plane. I don't want to take an alternator apart and I don't
want to build my own brackets. Anyway I have talked myself into getting an
internally regulated alternator and putting the B lead contactor in with an
OVM like Bob discusses. I don't have a problem with a failed alternator
causing the OVM to trip and then the alternator self-distructing as long as
it doesn't catch fire.
My questions is... If the contactor opens while the alternator is online,
will that cause the alternator to leak all of its smoke out? If that is the
case then would somebody steer me toward a 40 Amp externally regulated
alternator that doesn't cost more than $400.
Godspeed,
Phil Birkelbach - Houston Texas
RV-7 N727WB (Reserved) - Fuselage
http://www.myrv7.com
Message 8
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | alternator + fire? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
From a previous post.
" don't have a problem with a failed alternator causing the OVM to trip and
then the alternator self-distructing as long asit doesn't catch fire."
I know quite a bit aobut cars and have rebuilt numerous Alt's years ago. I
have never ran across and Alt that has caught fire. This is really rare right?
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
Message 9
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | alternator failure modes |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Ed Holyoke <bicyclop@pacbell.net>
See:
http://www.bandcspecialty.com/cgi-bin/ez-catalog/cat_display.cgi?2X35821
8
scroll down to L-40 boss mount. Bob has said that these are the best
available.
Ed Holyoke
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-
> aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Phil Birkelbach
> Sent: Monday, March 24, 2003 9:19 AM
> To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: alternator failure modes
>
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Phil Birkelbach"
> <phil@petrasoft.net>
>
> Okay I need some clarification. I am finding it very difficult to
find a
> 40A alternator that is externally regulated for a decent price that I
know
> will fit my plane. I don't want to take an alternator apart and I
don't
> want to build my own brackets. Anyway I have talked myself into
getting
> an
> internally regulated alternator and putting the B lead contactor in
with
> an
> OVM like Bob discusses. I don't have a problem with a failed
alternator
> causing the OVM to trip and then the alternator self-distructing as
long
> as
> it doesn't catch fire.
>
> My questions is... If the contactor opens while the alternator is
online,
> will that cause the alternator to leak all of its smoke out? If that
is
> the
> case then would somebody steer me toward a 40 Amp externally regulated
> alternator that doesn't cost more than $400.
>
> Godspeed,
>
> Phil Birkelbach - Houston Texas
> RV-7 N727WB (Reserved) - Fuselage
> http://www.myrv7.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 10
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Call the ball ?? |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "David Glauser" <david.glauser@xpsystems.com>
I've got it even better. I get the entire garage. It was a deal - I wanted the
house with the three-car garage. She wanted the smaller house with the two-car
garage on a really nice lot. She said if I went for the smaller house I could
have the whole garage. Not being a fool, I accepted.
dg
-----Original Message-----
From: Tony Babb [mailto:tonybabb@alejandra.net]
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: Call the ball ??
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Tony Babb" <tonybabb@alejandra.net>
Janelle,
You're a saint and wonderful role model for the spouses of all homebuilders.
Does your husband realize he's the envy of most of the rest of us?
----- Original Message -----
From: "nhulin" <nhulin@hotmail.com>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: Call the ball ??
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "nhulin" <nhulin@hotmail.com>
>
> Share? Share the garage? Dodge Caravan, pregnant, heavy snow all winter.
> Share they say, Hah.
>
>From: Janelle, wife of Neil.
Message 11
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: alternator failure modes |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Denis Walsh <denis.walsh@attbi.com>
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Phil Birkelbach"
> <phil@petrasoft.net>
>
> Okay I need some clarification. I am finding it very difficult to find a
> 40A alternator that is externally regulated for a decent price that I know
> will fit my plane. I don't want to take an alternator apart and I don't
> want to build my own brackets. Anyway I have talked myself into getting an
> internally regulated alternator and putting the B lead contactor in with an
> OVM like Bob discusses. I don't have a problem with a failed alternator
> causing the OVM to trip and then the alternator self-distructing as long as
> it doesn't catch fire.
>
> My questions is... If the contactor opens while the alternator is online,
> will that cause the alternator to leak all of its smoke out? If that is the
> case then would somebody steer me toward a 40 Amp externally regulated
> alternator that doesn't cost more than $400.
>
> Godspeed,
>
> Phil Birkelbach - Houston Texas
> RV-7 N727WB (Reserved) - Fuselage
> http://www.myrv7.com
>
> .
>
I have flight checked this condition several times with my internally
regulated alternator, a 40A Denso from Niagra with all brackets etc, for
$225.
I have a 35A circuit breaker switch in line with the B lead to the main bus.
When opened in flight, the alternator loses no smoke. Same with turning off
the regulator power. I have my OV protection hooked up to that fellow, but
probably should also have the contactor that Bob recommends. I say probably
because, I am from Missouri, and haven=B9t been shown the failure mode
wherein the field gets goosed by some internal short from the B.
P. S. Please don=B9t confuse me with any one who is willing to debate this
sort of thing.
I am delighted with the value of the niagra product, and its functino and
reliability has been great. If I were startign over however, I would have
to very carefully consider the B&C which is a giant step up from the =B3out
of the box=B2 Denso.
Message 12
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Motor Glider System Questions |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
At 08:21 AM 3/21/2003 -0800, Gerald Giddens <geraldgiddens@cox.net> wrote:
>Bob,
>I have entered a subscription to matronics as you suggest. I hope I will be
>able navigate the site - an not be plaged by attempts to access my computer
>system as you lamented on your site.
. . . not sure what your concerns are . . . there are no
potential risks to your computer to browse the matronics archives
or subscribe to any of their supported lists . . .
>I was able to print Z-13 - This was the schematic that I was first drawn to.
>The nature of a motorglider flight is motored flight then a transition to
>soaring flight - engine off - and the subsequent return for powered flight
>for a return home. This poses some interesting battery power conservation
>situations. Two batteries has been the main focus. Primarily concern is
>the ability to insure adequate power for engine restart. Engine restart is
>the #2 absolute requirement after the structural integrity of the airframe.
>A send alternator/dynamo has not been considered but is now on the table.
What size engine are we talking about? Do you have any current
draw values for the starter?
>My immediate need is info about determining the length to use in determining
>voltage drop. I could not find a clear explanation in 43.13. The
>explanation from an on line EAA tech differed from what I believe was on one
>of your web articles. I interpret what you said is that the wire length to
>use is that from the source , circuit breaker or buss connection, to the
>consuming device plus the wire length to a ground connection. 43.13 seems
>to indicate that, in an aluminum structure, the resistance drop from the
>ground connection to the battery ground to airframe is negligable.
Unless you're building a large composite aircraft or a huge
aluminum airplane, voltage drops are not a driving consideration
for wire size. Table 11-9 in AC43-13 or Figure 8-3 of the
'Connection can be consulted for recommended wires at the various
current ratings. Fuses/breakers should be the same size or
smaller than the recommended continuous current level.
>Another question is the sizing of the main power feed from the battery (aft
>baggage compartment) to the the main buss, estimated at 16 feet in my case,
>and the power feed to the starter - another 8 feet from the main power buss
>to starter relay and on to the starter. I am wondering about installing a
>ground conductor from the starter back to the additional engine ground
>connection on the firewall and possibly going onto the main ground buss at
>the instrument panel. Are we now at 32 feet for voltage drop? What about
>extending the ground wire another 16 feet to the battery(ies)?
With the battery that far from the engine, make all cranking
circuit wires at least 2AWG. Welding cable will work fine.
Run braided number from crankcase to firewall ground stud,
bring battery (-) to this same stud via 2AWG wire. Let's
talk some more about how this airplane is used . . . you
may want to consider a dual battery installation.
Bob . . .
Message 13
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Gary Graham <beeb@teleport.com>
I have a Thrustmaster "Fighter X" and a real stick grip that was referred to
(see below) as a "B8". The information about the (my) real stick grip is:
GRIP ASSEMBLY,CONT,ACFT,TYPE MC-2 USAF 56C3002 and more #s. The mfg. mark
is a "G" in arrow head shaped shield. Their part number is 58765. It is
identical to the "Fighter X". in every way except weight and switch force.
It has a new Amphenol mil spec connector and stick adapter for a 1.250" o.d.
and 1.0" i.d. stick tube. This stick grip was given me for bringing home a
disabled (Dual electrical failure) USAF T-38, or was it the only good part
left over, whatever. All these years I assumed that it was the stick grip
from a T-38/F-5 and maybe some other mil spec flying machines. Can anyone
give me the facts on what I have. Is it a valuable antique like me?
As for the "Fighter X", do I need driver software to get it to function
in the Win or Mac worlds? I picked it up cause it looked a lot like
something I used to hold in my right hand a lot. Now if I could find a mil
throttle knob with a speed board switch. Thanks in advanced for any
information.
GG RV-4FB
bottom gun
----------------------
<snip>
The best ones, if you go that route, are the Thrustmaster B8 style. In
fact, JD's early sticks were injected urethane foam surplus Thrustmasters
(I know, I bought a dozen of them).
The Thrustmaster "Top Gun" stick is slightly smaller - the same size at
JD's - the "Fighter X" is a full size B8. Neither one is made anymore, but
you can get them on EBay for about $20. The later Top Guns and all the
Fighter Xs have soft neoprene inserts where the checkering is, which is
also where your hand contacts the stick.
Message 14
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Mark Phillips <ripsteel@edge.net>
I've got a Delco-Remy model #1109657 starter I'd like to clean & inspect
and if necessary rebuild. Does anyone here know how to take it apart or
have any other info such as minimum brush length, preferred lubricants,
maintenance procedures, special tools or suggestions on what NOT to do
etc.? It will spin the engine fine with the plugs out and is probably
OK, but I'd like to give it a thorough checkout before bolting it back
on the engine (which is a '72 vintage E3D)
Thanks for any help!
Mark - RV-6A - do not archive -
Message 15
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Infinity Grip Selection 2 Rights - or 1 Right and 1 |
Left????
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Julia <wings97302@yahoo.com>
I'm ordering the Infinity grips -now i'm told I should consider a left and right
I was going to order two right grips - since i'm right handed and most people are
right handed.
what do you all recommend? if I sit in the left seat of my RV7A - the throttle
is in the center - would it be bad to hold the stick with my right hand and run
the throttle with my left???
The infinity stick conforms to your hand -so you order a left or right hand style
- it's not just a round tube.
thanks
---------------------------------
Message 16
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Infinity Grip Selection 2 Rights - or 1 |
Right and 1 Left????
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorto1537@rogers.com>
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Julia <wings97302@yahoo.com>
>
>
>I'm ordering the Infinity grips -now i'm told I should consider a
>left and right
>
>I was going to order two right grips - since i'm right handed and
>most people are right handed.
>
>what do you all recommend? if I sit in the left seat of my RV7A -
>the throttle is in the center - would it be bad to hold the stick
>with my right hand and run the throttle with my left???
>
>The infinity stick conforms to your hand -so you order a left or
>right hand style - it's not just a round tube.
>
>thanks
>
You are definitely going to want to hold the throttle in the hand
that is on the same side the throttle is. It would not be
comfortable to try to cross your left arm across your body to hold
the throttle. So, that means you would want a left and right grip
for a side-by-side RV, unless you are going to put in a throttle
quadrant on the left side of the cockpit.
In my opinion, people worry way too much about whether they will be
able to fly the aircraft with the "wrong" hand. Sure, it may feel a
bit strange for the first few minutes. But by the end of the first
flight using your "wrong" hand you'll have forgotten which hand you
are using. Just be sure to get enough dual using that hand before
your first flight in the RV.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/
Message 17
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Infinity Grip Selection 2 Rights - or 1 Right and |
1 Left????
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Matt Prather" <mprather@spro.net>
If you are going to the effort and expense of having a custom stick with
lots of bells and whistles, with the intent of using them during crucial
times of flight, crossing hands doesn't make sense.
Picture this: Its a hazy, bumpy day and you are on wide left downwind to a
busy airport, talking to the approach controller. He tells you to follow
another
small experimental which is on an extended right base to the same runway
and in
the same breath he hands you off to the tower. You need to switch
frequencies,
continue to fly the airplane through the turbulence, and keep your head
outside
the cockpit in order to see the airplane you were instructed to follow.
At the same
time, you are trying to milk off a little more throttle in order to stay
behind said
traffic.
You can have the 'wrong' hand on the stick, and resort to hitting the
flipflop on
the panel instead of the one on the stick (which you spent extra on). Or,
you
can twist your left hand across your body to adjust the throttle (which your
hand should really stray from for long periods).
I think I would choose to fly most of the time with my left hand on the
stick,
if there's only one throttle in the airplane. That's what you do in a
plane with
a yolk, and it isn't a problem there. Otherwise, get a second throttle
installed
onto the left edge of the panel, or plan to fly from the right seat.
Crossing
over on a custom airplane seems silly. Especially on one that was supposed
to be fun to fly.
Regards,
Matt (who has elevator trim on the wrong side and doesn't like it) Prather-
N34RD
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Julia <wings97302@yahoo.com>
>
>
> I'm ordering the Infinity grips -now i'm told I should consider a left
> and right
>
> I was going to order two right grips - since i'm right handed and most
> people are right handed.
>
> what do you all recommend? if I sit in the left seat of my RV7A - the
> throttle is in the center - would it be bad to hold the stick with my
> right hand and run the throttle with my left???
>
> The infinity stick conforms to your hand -so you order a left or right
> hand style - it's not just a round tube.
>
> thanks
>
>
> ---------------------------------
>
>
Message 18
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Push to Talk Switch Wiring |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin@valkyrie.net>
List, I Haven't gotten any help on this problem yet? Has anybody faced
this one? No help in the archives
Thanks, Tom in Ohio
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin@valkyrie.net>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Push to Talk Switch Wiring
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Tom & Cathy Ervin"
<tcervin@valkyrie.net>
>
> List,
> I have my Audio Panel PS-4000 wiring harness in place but they
didn't make up separate wires for the Push to Talk Buttons?
> One wire I know is the ground but wouldn't the other wire go
to the "Key Wire" on the Microphone jack that the headset plugs into?
Thanks for any help as the wiring is just about done.
>
Tom in Ohio
>
>
Message 19
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Push to Talk Switch Wiring |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Charlie & Tupper England <cengland@netdoor.com>
Tom & Cathy Ervin wrote:
>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin@valkyrie.net>
>
>List, I Haven't gotten any help on this problem yet? Has anybody faced
>this one? No help in the archives
>
>Thanks, Tom in Ohio
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin@valkyrie.net>
>To: <aeroelectric-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: AeroElectric-List: Push to Talk Switch Wiring
>
>
>
>
>>--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Tom & Cathy Ervin"
>>
>>
><tcervin@valkyrie.net>
>
>
>>List,
>> I have my Audio Panel PS-4000 wiring harness in place but they
>>
>>
>didn't make up separate wires for the Push to Talk Buttons?
>
>
>> One wire I know is the ground but wouldn't the other wire go
>>
>>
>to the "Key Wire" on the Microphone jack that the headset plugs into?
>Thanks for any help as the wiring is just about done.
>
>
>Tom in Ohio
>
Hi Tom,
Do you mean that the harness has the key wire from the intercom to the
radio but not from the mic jack to the intercom?
The PTT wire should leave the 'tip' terminal of the mic jack and go to
the 'PTT' or 'key' jack on the intercom. There will likely be a PTT
terminal on the intecom for the pilot's mic & each passenger's mic. The
intercom should have another terminal for a PTT wire leaving the
intercom & going to the radio.
Does this help?
Charlie
Message 20
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Push to Talk Switch Wiring |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Benford2@aol.com
In a message dated 3/24/2003 8:00:49 PM Mountain Standard Time,
cengland@netdoor.com writes:
>
> >>List,
> >> I have my Audio Panel PS-4000 wiring harness in place but
> they
> >>
> >>
> >didn't make up separate wires for the Push to Talk Buttons?
> >
> >
> >> One wire I know is the ground but wouldn't the other wire go
> >>
> >>
> >to the "Key Wire" on the Microphone jack that the headset plugs into?
> >Thanks for any help as the wiring is just about done.
> >
> >
> >Tom in Ohio
>
Ya need to contact PS engineering with this problem. They believe no one but
themselves are smart enought to do anything. It is kinda hard to believe that
a PS harness in incorrect !!!!!!!! Oh, and by the way. Do not tell them this
intercom is is a homebuilt. Ben Haas. N801BH.
Message 21
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | It mustn't continue.............. |
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: j1j2h3@juno.com
My wife told me all about them - you don't have to worry until they are 5
minutes apart.
Jim Hasper - RV-7 just starting empennage (on hold pending move to
Tennessee)
Do not archive
Do not archive
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Harold Kovac"
<kayce@sysmatrix.net>
>But first you have to know what a contraction is .....
Message 22
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Infinity Grip Selection 2 Rights - or 1 Right and |
1 Left????
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Gerry Holland <gnholland@onetel.com>
Hi!
With Throttle / Engine Controls to the right/centre then I would
strongly recommend using the Left Hand Grip. It may at first feel
uncomfortable to 'control' stick with Left Hand but it soon grows on
you. For me it felt strange at first after using a 'handlebar type Yoke
for a few years.With the Yoke the left hand 'control' felt OK (possible
angle of hand grip) but using a stick again did take a little while to
get relaxed with.
Crossing Arms/Hands to carry out control functions is not a good idea.
You could of course duplicate Throttle mechanism and go for additional
Left hand Throttle.
Regards
Gerry
On Monday, Mar 24, 2003, at 22:19 Europe/London, Julia wrote:
Gerry Holland
mailto://gnholland@onetel.com
+44 7808 402404
Europa XS 384
G-FIZY
The greatest enjoyment from existence is living dangerously....
Friedrich Nietzsche
Other Matronics Email List Services
These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.
-- Please support this service by making your Contribution today! --
|